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How to Build a Wheelchair Ramp
|
1. Planning the Ramp
1-1. Decide on the ramp's longevity.
Before you inquire with your local building code office about whether you need a permit or begin gathering your materials, you'll need to decide on whether the ramp will be a temporary structure or a permanent addition on to the building. A temporary/portable ramp (which will be discussed in greater length) is much easier to construct, whereas a permanent ramp may require professional services and additional government oversight. It is worth noting, however, that in some communities a permit is required regardless of the structure's longevity.
1-2. Plan the location.
If there is any chance you will need a building permit, it's best to have a plan drawn up to show your property lines, the size and location of your home, and where the ramp will be placed. You should also include the height, length, and width of the ramp, as well as its distance from the sidewalk or street.
These plans may be required before securing a building permit in some communities. Even if such a plan is not required, it will be helpful for you to have for your own planning and records-keeping.
In some communities, you may need a plan designed by a professional engineer or carpenter in order to secure a permit. Check with your local building code office to determine what (if any) documentation is required.
1-3. Estimate the cost.
In addition to the cost of supplies and building materials, as well as any contractor or carpenter fees, you may have to pay for a building permit. In many cities and counties in the U.S., the cost of a building permit is determined by the estimated cost of building the ramp. In Erie, PA, for example, there is a flat rate permit fee of $29 if the project will cost under $2,000, but if it is in excess of that amount the fee is increased to $29 + an additional $6 for every $1,000 in excess of $2,000.
If you are building a temporary/portable ramp, you may be able to simply estimate the cost of wood and any other necessary supplies. If you are building a permanent fixture, this may require the skills of a carpenter or engineer, which could significantly increase the estimated costs of construction.
1-4. Secure a building permit.
In some places, a municipal building permit is required before construction of a wheelchair ramp may take place. This varies significantly from one municipality to another. Within the U.S. alone, there are considerable differences from one city to another. For example, in St. Louis, MO, wheelchair ramps are exempt from building permits if the ramp is laid down over existing stairs or is otherwise not permanently attached to the house. But in Erie, PA, all wheelchair ramps require a city permit that will cost approximately $29 or more, depending on the cost of the ramp.
In cities where a building permit is required, you may face significant fines or other legal troubles for failing to secure a building permit before beginning construction of the ramp.
Search online for your city and county regulations on building permits. You can also call your local Public Works office or a similar building code office in your city/county to learn about building permits and any local regulations that govern wheelchair ramps.
2. Measuring the Materials
2-1. Choose a shape/layout.
There are three primary ramp layouts that most builders choose. The first is a straight (also called an in-line) ramp, which incorporates the ramp and any necessary landings in a straight line. The second is an L-shaped (also called a dog-legged) ramp, which bends at a 90 degree angle at the intermediate landing. If the L-shaped ramp wraps around the house, it may also be referred to as a "wrap-around" ramp. The third is a switchback ramp, which incorporates a 180-degree turn at one or more intermediate landings.
One of the biggest factors in choosing a layout for the ramp is visual aesthetics. However, sometimes the size and shape of your yard may determine the shape and layout of your ramp.
2-2. Provide a sufficient slope.
The ramp's slope, or angle of incline, is determined by how much rise the structure must accommodate. For many structures, the ramp must have a minimum ratio of 1:12. That means that for every inch of vertical rise, the ramp extends 12 inches outward. This is to ensure that the ramp is not too steep and can be easily ascended and descended safely by the individual who will be using it.
To calculate your estimated length of ramp, measure the total rise and multiply that measurement by the total slope chosen for your ramp. For example, a ramp with a 1:12 slope built for a 29 inch rise would be 348 inches, or 29 feet (29 x 12 = 348).
Ramps may have a gentler angle than 1:12 - for example, extending the ramp 16 inches outward for every one inch of vertical rise (1:16) - to improve safety and ease of access. Ramps should not have a slope that is any less than 12 inches of run for every inch of vertical rise, though, as anything steeper than this may lead to accidents and/or injuries.
Please note that if the ramp is for a commercial/business facility, your city, county, or state may dictate a separate slope requirement for indoor vs. outdoor ramps. In Minnesota, for example, interior or covered ramps for public/commercial use may have a slope of 1:12, but exterior ramps (which may be considered "walks," depending on your municipal codes) must have gentler slopes of at least 1:20.
2-3. Factor in landings.
Depending on the size, angle, and primary use of your ramp (someone pushing a wheelchair vs. someone in a wheelchair transporting herself, for example), you may need to include landings on your ramp. There are three primary types of landings for a wheelchair ramp: a top landing, a bottom landing, and an optional intermediate landing.
Top landings should measure at least 60 inches by 60 inches for an out-swinging door. The landing should provide at least 12 to 24 inches of "elbow room" on the handle side of the door, to ensure that the person opening the door can swing the wheelchair around and open the door without rolling backwards. This landing should come flush against the threshold of the exterior door, but it is recommended that there be no greater than a 1/2 inch gap between the ramp and the door threshold. This is to prevent the smaller front wheels from getting stuck, and to prevent walkers from tripping as they enter/exit the dwelling.
Intermediate landings are typically optional, depending on the length and slope of the ramp. The size of this landing can range from 36 to 60 inches, depending on the slope. A steeper slope (such as a slope of 1:12) may require a longer distance in which the wheelchair may be stopped while descending.
Bottom landings should measure at least the width of the ramp by approximately 48 inches of length if the ramp will be used by a walker, or 60 to 72 inches of length if the ramp will be used primarily by a wheelchair user.
Make sure the bottom landing and ground are as close to flush as possible. A "lip" that measures more than 1/2 inch will pose a significant risk of tripping (for pedestrians) or rolling (for chair operators).
Many experts recommend bolting the top landing to the building's foundation. Otherwise there will be a risk of the ramp lifting up from temperature fluctuations, which may pose a threat to the individual(s) using the ramp and could at the very least cause an out-swinging door to become jammed.
2-4. Add on safety features.
Additional safety features like handrails and guardrails are an important component of most wheelchair ramps. A handrail can help prevent a wheelchair operator from falling out of the chair or rolling down the ramp, and a guardrail can help prevent the wheelchair operator from slipping off the ramp or landing.
Handrail size and placement will depend on the height and arm strength of the primary user(s), as well as any local building code requirements that may be applicable to your structure. The typical height range of most handrail locations is between 31 and 34 inches.
The width of the handrails should be less than or equal to 1.5 inches in diameter to ensure that the user can adequately grip the handrail. The diameter should be even smaller for children or adults with an impaired ability to grip or hold.
Many lumber yards sell ready-made vertical hand rails.
Guardrails should be mounted level with the primary user's seated knee height. This typically falls somewhere around 18 to 20 inches, though it's best to measure the primary user's seated knee height to ensure that the guardrails are effective and safe.
Consider adding on a roof and/or gutters if the ramp is close to the building. Water runoff from the roof of the building may create a slipping hazard for wheelchair users, and a roof/covering will also help protect the wheelchair operator from the elements. An alternate option is to build a small extension off the roof to protect the ramp from runoff.
3. Building the Ramp
3-1. Use treated lumber only.
Treated lumber is more durable and will weather precipitation and seasonal changes far better than untreated lumber. Even if the structure is a temporary one, it is considered a standard of ramp design to use treated lumber for the safety of the operator and the durability of the structure.
It's generally best to choose medium-length lumber. For 2x4 and 2x6 boards, that means 16 feet or less in length. For 4x4 posts, choose beams that are 10 feet or less in length.
3-2. Build the ramp with screws.
Nails can potentially come undone with time and use, which could cause a safety hazard. For a stable, durable wheelchair ramp that won't come undone, use screws to assemble the ramp. Nails should only be used for joist hangers.
3-3. Dig posts for permanent ramp.
If building a permanent structure, you'll need to dig post holes to properly stabilize and secure the ramp. The posts themselves should be four inches by four inches in size (4x4), and should be spaced no more than eight feet apart, with six feet being the ideal spacing.
Cross-brace each post in at least one position in each direction. This will help give lateral stability to the posts.
Attach stringers to the posts using 3.5 inch screws. Use 1/4 inch by 4 inch high shear strength screws at each load joint and to fasten the sill to the home.
If the stringers are not at ground level or very close to it, use joist hangers on the stringers. To secure these, use hanger nails 1 and 5/8 inch. For all other fastenings, use screws instead of nails to ensure a stable structure.
3-4. Lay down an anti-slip surface.
Some municipal codes require an anti-slip running surface that extends the entire length of the ramp. Even if this precaution is not required, it is still highly recommended by building and safety experts. There are many options for creating an anti-slip surface, and the option you choose may depend on personal preferences.
For wooden ramps, you can use a commercial "grit" tape, strips of roofing or shingling, or a coating of polyurethane sprinkled with sand. All of these materials are available at most hardware or building supply stores.
For a concrete ramp, you can create an anti-slip surface by brushing the concrete with a broom while the concrete is still drying/hardening to create a rougher, less-smooth texture.
Tips
Consider hiring a contractor who specializes in accessibility issues to install your ramp.
You can find codes regarding construction requirements at your local building department office, the library, or online. Check your local telephone directory for locations and contact information, or search online for building codes in your region.
Examine photographs or actual ramps in your neighborhood for ideas and inspiration. Talk to the owners and ask them for building suggestions, or ask who their contractor was.
Warnings
You can be legally liable if somebody has an injury on your property, or if you provide a ramp that does not conform exactly to required specifications.
Consider local conditions when choosing materials for your ramp. For example, if you have a great deal of snow much of the time, additional traction and a roof/gutter may be needed.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:15",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Ramp\\n1-1. Decide on the ramp's longevity.\\nBefore you inquire with your local building code office about whether you need a permit or begin gathering your materials, you'll need to decide on whether the ramp will be a temporary structure or a permanent addition on to the building. A temporary/portable ramp (which will be discussed in greater length) is much easier to construct, whereas a permanent ramp may require professional services and additional government oversight. It is worth noting, however, that in some communities a permit is required regardless of the structure's longevity.\\n1-2. Plan the location.\\nIf there is any chance you will need a building permit, it's best to have a plan drawn up to show your property lines, the size and location of your home, and where the ramp will be placed. You should also include the height, length, and width of the ramp, as well as its distance from the sidewalk or street.\\nThese plans may be required before securing a building permit in some communities. Even if such a plan is not required, it will be helpful for you to have for your own planning and records-keeping.\\nIn some communities, you may need a plan designed by a professional engineer or carpenter in order to secure a permit. Check with your local building code office to determine what (if any) documentation is required.\\n1-3. Estimate the cost.\\nIn addition to the cost of supplies and building materials, as well as any contractor or carpenter fees, you may have to pay for a building permit. In many cities and counties in the U.S., the cost of a building permit is determined by the estimated cost of building the ramp. In Erie, PA, for example, there is a flat rate permit fee of $29 if the project will cost under $2,000, but if it is in excess of that amount the fee is increased to $29 + an additional $6 for every $1,000 in excess of $2,000.\\nIf you are building a temporary/portable ramp, you may be able to simply estimate the cost of wood and any other necessary supplies. If you are building a permanent fixture, this may require the skills of a carpenter or engineer, which could significantly increase the estimated costs of construction.\\n1-4. Secure a building permit.\\nIn some places, a municipal building permit is required before construction of a wheelchair ramp may take place. This varies significantly from one municipality to another. Within the U.S. alone, there are considerable differences from one city to another. For example, in St. Louis, MO, wheelchair ramps are exempt from building permits if the ramp is laid down over existing stairs or is otherwise not permanently attached to the house. But in Erie, PA, all wheelchair ramps require a city permit that will cost approximately $29 or more, depending on the cost of the ramp.\\nIn cities where a building permit is required, you may face significant fines or other legal troubles for failing to secure a building permit before beginning construction of the ramp.\\nSearch online for your city and county regulations on building permits. You can also call your local Public Works office or a similar building code office in your city/county to learn about building permits and any local regulations that govern wheelchair ramps.\\n2. Measuring the Materials\\n2-1. Choose a shape/layout.\\nThere are three primary ramp layouts that most builders choose. The first is a straight (also called an in-line) ramp, which incorporates the ramp and any necessary landings in a straight line. The second is an L-shaped (also called a dog-legged) ramp, which bends at a 90 degree angle at the intermediate landing. If the L-shaped ramp wraps around the house, it may also be referred to as a \\\"wrap-around\\\" ramp. The third is a switchback ramp, which incorporates a 180-degree turn at one or more intermediate landings.\\nOne of the biggest factors in choosing a layout for the ramp is visual aesthetics. However, sometimes the size and shape of your yard may determine the shape and layout of your ramp.\\n2-2. Provide a sufficient slope.\\nThe ramp's slope, or angle of incline, is determined by how much rise the structure must accommodate. For many structures, the ramp must have a minimum ratio of 1:12. That means that for every inch of vertical rise, the ramp extends 12 inches outward. This is to ensure that the ramp is not too steep and can be easily ascended and descended safely by the individual who will be using it.\\nTo calculate your estimated length of ramp, measure the total rise and multiply that measurement by the total slope chosen for your ramp. For example, a ramp with a 1:12 slope built for a 29 inch rise would be 348 inches, or 29 feet (29 x 12 = 348).\\nRamps may have a gentler angle than 1:12 - for example, extending the ramp 16 inches outward for every one inch of vertical rise (1:16) - to improve safety and ease of access. Ramps should not have a slope that is any less than 12 inches of run for every inch of vertical rise, though, as anything steeper than this may lead to accidents and/or injuries.\\nPlease note that if the ramp is for a commercial/business facility, your city, county, or state may dictate a separate slope requirement for indoor vs. outdoor ramps. In Minnesota, for example, interior or covered ramps for public/commercial use may have a slope of 1:12, but exterior ramps (which may be considered \\\"walks,\\\" depending on your municipal codes) must have gentler slopes of at least 1:20.\\n2-3. Factor in landings.\\nDepending on the size, angle, and primary use of your ramp (someone pushing a wheelchair vs. someone in a wheelchair transporting herself, for example), you may need to include landings on your ramp. There are three primary types of landings for a wheelchair ramp: a top landing, a bottom landing, and an optional intermediate landing.\\nTop landings should measure at least 60 inches by 60 inches for an out-swinging door. The landing should provide at least 12 to 24 inches of \\\"elbow room\\\" on the handle side of the door, to ensure that the person opening the door can swing the wheelchair around and open the door without rolling backwards. This landing should come flush against the threshold of the exterior door, but it is recommended that there be no greater than a 1/2 inch gap between the ramp and the door threshold. This is to prevent the smaller front wheels from getting stuck, and to prevent walkers from tripping as they enter/exit the dwelling.\\nIntermediate landings are typically optional, depending on the length and slope of the ramp. The size of this landing can range from 36 to 60 inches, depending on the slope. A steeper slope (such as a slope of 1:12) may require a longer distance in which the wheelchair may be stopped while descending.\\nBottom landings should measure at least the width of the ramp by approximately 48 inches of length if the ramp will be used by a walker, or 60 to 72 inches of length if the ramp will be used primarily by a wheelchair user.\\nMake sure the bottom landing and ground are as close to flush as possible. A \\\"lip\\\" that measures more than 1/2 inch will pose a significant risk of tripping (for pedestrians) or rolling (for chair operators).\\nMany experts recommend bolting the top landing to the building's foundation. Otherwise there will be a risk of the ramp lifting up from temperature fluctuations, which may pose a threat to the individual(s) using the ramp and could at the very least cause an out-swinging door to become jammed.\\n2-4. Add on safety features.\\nAdditional safety features like handrails and guardrails are an important component of most wheelchair ramps. A handrail can help prevent a wheelchair operator from falling out of the chair or rolling down the ramp, and a guardrail can help prevent the wheelchair operator from slipping off the ramp or landing.\\nHandrail size and placement will depend on the height and arm strength of the primary user(s), as well as any local building code requirements that may be applicable to your structure. The typical height range of most handrail locations is between 31 and 34 inches.\\nThe width of the handrails should be less than or equal to 1.5 inches in diameter to ensure that the user can adequately grip the handrail. The diameter should be even smaller for children or adults with an impaired ability to grip or hold.\\nMany lumber yards sell ready-made vertical hand rails.\\nGuardrails should be mounted level with the primary user's seated knee height. This typically falls somewhere around 18 to 20 inches, though it's best to measure the primary user's seated knee height to ensure that the guardrails are effective and safe.\\nConsider adding on a roof and/or gutters if the ramp is close to the building. Water runoff from the roof of the building may create a slipping hazard for wheelchair users, and a roof/covering will also help protect the wheelchair operator from the elements. An alternate option is to build a small extension off the roof to protect the ramp from runoff.\\n3. Building the Ramp\\n3-1. Use treated lumber only.\\nTreated lumber is more durable and will weather precipitation and seasonal changes far better than untreated lumber. Even if the structure is a temporary one, it is considered a standard of ramp design to use treated lumber for the safety of the operator and the durability of the structure.\\nIt's generally best to choose medium-length lumber. For 2x4 and 2x6 boards, that means 16 feet or less in length. For 4x4 posts, choose beams that are 10 feet or less in length.\\n3-2. Build the ramp with screws.\\nNails can potentially come undone with time and use, which could cause a safety hazard. For a stable, durable wheelchair ramp that won't come undone, use screws to assemble the ramp. Nails should only be used for joist hangers.\\n3-3. Dig posts for permanent ramp.\\nIf building a permanent structure, you'll need to dig post holes to properly stabilize and secure the ramp. The posts themselves should be four inches by four inches in size (4x4), and should be spaced no more than eight feet apart, with six feet being the ideal spacing.\\nCross-brace each post in at least one position in each direction. This will help give lateral stability to the posts.\\nAttach stringers to the posts using 3.5 inch screws. Use 1/4 inch by 4 inch high shear strength screws at each load joint and to fasten the sill to the home.\\nIf the stringers are not at ground level or very close to it, use joist hangers on the stringers. To secure these, use hanger nails 1 and 5/8 inch. For all other fastenings, use screws instead of nails to ensure a stable structure.\\n3-4. Lay down an anti-slip surface.\\nSome municipal codes require an anti-slip running surface that extends the entire length of the ramp. Even if this precaution is not required, it is still highly recommended by building and safety experts. There are many options for creating an anti-slip surface, and the option you choose may depend on personal preferences.\\nFor wooden ramps, you can use a commercial \\\"grit\\\" tape, strips of roofing or shingling, or a coating of polyurethane sprinkled with sand. All of these materials are available at most hardware or building supply stores.\\nFor a concrete ramp, you can create an anti-slip surface by brushing the concrete with a broom while the concrete is still drying/hardening to create a rougher, less-smooth texture.\\nTips\\nConsider hiring a contractor who specializes in accessibility issues to install your ramp.\\nYou can find codes regarding construction requirements at your local building department office, the library, or online. Check your local telephone directory for locations and contact information, or search online for building codes in your region.\\nExamine photographs or actual ramps in your neighborhood for ideas and inspiration. Talk to the owners and ask them for building suggestions, or ask who their contractor was.\\nWarnings\\nYou can be legally liable if somebody has an injury on your property, or if you provide a ramp that does not conform exactly to required specifications.\\nConsider local conditions when choosing materials for your ramp. For example, if you have a great deal of snow much of the time, additional traction and a roof/gutter may be needed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wheelchair ramps help people with disabilities access public and private facilities. In the United States, as part of the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), all new public buildings must include wheelchair access. Ramps can be permanent, semi-permanent, or portable, but a ramp or a wheelchair lift must be included in all new building projects going forward. Be aware that a permanent structural ramp will require engineering and/or carpentry skills and may require additional building permits, whereas a temporary/portable ramp can be fairly easily constructed on your own. Whether you or someone you know is disabled and needs a ramp for domestic use, or you're a business owner who needs to facilitate easy access to your building, learning how to build a wheelchair ramp can help make your building accessible and compliant with ADA regulations.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on the ramp's longevity.\", \"描述\": \"Before you inquire with your local building code office about whether you need a permit or begin gathering your materials, you'll need to decide on whether the ramp will be a temporary structure or a permanent addition on to the building. A temporary/portable ramp (which will be discussed in greater length) is much easier to construct, whereas a permanent ramp may require professional services and additional government oversight. It is worth noting, however, that in some communities a permit is required regardless of the structure's longevity.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan the location.\", \"描述\": \"If there is any chance you will need a building permit, it's best to have a plan drawn up to show your property lines, the size and location of your home, and where the ramp will be placed. You should also include the height, length, and width of the ramp, as well as its distance from the sidewalk or street.\\nThese plans may be required before securing a building permit in some communities. Even if such a plan is not required, it will be helpful for you to have for your own planning and records-keeping.\\nIn some communities, you may need a plan designed by a professional engineer or carpenter in order to secure a permit. Check with your local building code office to determine what (if any) documentation is required.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Estimate the cost.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to the cost of supplies and building materials, as well as any contractor or carpenter fees, you may have to pay for a building permit. In many cities and counties in the U.S., the cost of a building permit is determined by the estimated cost of building the ramp. In Erie, PA, for example, there is a flat rate permit fee of $29 if the project will cost under $2,000, but if it is in excess of that amount the fee is increased to $29 + an additional $6 for every $1,000 in excess of $2,000.\\nIf you are building a temporary/portable ramp, you may be able to simply estimate the cost of wood and any other necessary supplies. If you are building a permanent fixture, this may require the skills of a carpenter or engineer, which could significantly increase the estimated costs of construction.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure a building permit.\", \"描述\": \"In some places, a municipal building permit is required before construction of a wheelchair ramp may take place. This varies significantly from one municipality to another. Within the U.S. alone, there are considerable differences from one city to another. For example, in St. Louis, MO, wheelchair ramps are exempt from building permits if the ramp is laid down over existing stairs or is otherwise not permanently attached to the house. But in Erie, PA, all wheelchair ramps require a city permit that will cost approximately $29 or more, depending on the cost of the ramp.\\nIn cities where a building permit is required, you may face significant fines or other legal troubles for failing to secure a building permit before beginning construction of the ramp.\\nSearch online for your city and county regulations on building permits. You can also call your local Public Works office or a similar building code office in your city/county to learn about building permits and any local regulations that govern wheelchair ramps.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measuring the Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a shape/layout.\", \"描述\": \"There are three primary ramp layouts that most builders choose. The first is a straight (also called an in-line) ramp, which incorporates the ramp and any necessary landings in a straight line. The second is an L-shaped (also called a dog-legged) ramp, which bends at a 90 degree angle at the intermediate landing. If the L-shaped ramp wraps around the house, it may also be referred to as a \\\"wrap-around\\\" ramp. The third is a switchback ramp, which incorporates a 180-degree turn at one or more intermediate landings.\\nOne of the biggest factors in choosing a layout for the ramp is visual aesthetics. However, sometimes the size and shape of your yard may determine the shape and layout of your ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Provide a sufficient slope.\", \"描述\": \"The ramp's slope, or angle of incline, is determined by how much rise the structure must accommodate. For many structures, the ramp must have a minimum ratio of 1:12. That means that for every inch of vertical rise, the ramp extends 12 inches outward. This is to ensure that the ramp is not too steep and can be easily ascended and descended safely by the individual who will be using it.\\nTo calculate your estimated length of ramp, measure the total rise and multiply that measurement by the total slope chosen for your ramp. For example, a ramp with a 1:12 slope built for a 29 inch rise would be 348 inches, or 29 feet (29 x 12 = 348).\\nRamps may have a gentler angle than 1:12 - for example, extending the ramp 16 inches outward for every one inch of vertical rise (1:16) - to improve safety and ease of access. Ramps should not have a slope that is any less than 12 inches of run for every inch of vertical rise, though, as anything steeper than this may lead to accidents and/or injuries.\\nPlease note that if the ramp is for a commercial/business facility, your city, county, or state may dictate a separate slope requirement for indoor vs. outdoor ramps. In Minnesota, for example, interior or covered ramps for public/commercial use may have a slope of 1:12, but exterior ramps (which may be considered \\\"walks,\\\" depending on your municipal codes) must have gentler slopes of at least 1:20.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Factor in landings.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the size, angle, and primary use of your ramp (someone pushing a wheelchair vs. someone in a wheelchair transporting herself, for example), you may need to include landings on your ramp. There are three primary types of landings for a wheelchair ramp: a top landing, a bottom landing, and an optional intermediate landing.\\nTop landings should measure at least 60 inches by 60 inches for an out-swinging door. The landing should provide at least 12 to 24 inches of \\\"elbow room\\\" on the handle side of the door, to ensure that the person opening the door can swing the wheelchair around and open the door without rolling backwards. This landing should come flush against the threshold of the exterior door, but it is recommended that there be no greater than a 1/2 inch gap between the ramp and the door threshold. This is to prevent the smaller front wheels from getting stuck, and to prevent walkers from tripping as they enter/exit the dwelling.\\nIntermediate landings are typically optional, depending on the length and slope of the ramp. The size of this landing can range from 36 to 60 inches, depending on the slope. A steeper slope (such as a slope of 1:12) may require a longer distance in which the wheelchair may be stopped while descending.\\nBottom landings should measure at least the width of the ramp by approximately 48 inches of length if the ramp will be used by a walker, or 60 to 72 inches of length if the ramp will be used primarily by a wheelchair user.\\nMake sure the bottom landing and ground are as close to flush as possible. A \\\"lip\\\" that measures more than 1/2 inch will pose a significant risk of tripping (for pedestrians) or rolling (for chair operators).\\nMany experts recommend bolting the top landing to the building's foundation. Otherwise there will be a risk of the ramp lifting up from temperature fluctuations, which may pose a threat to the individual(s) using the ramp and could at the very least cause an out-swinging door to become jammed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add on safety features.\", \"描述\": \"Additional safety features like handrails and guardrails are an important component of most wheelchair ramps. A handrail can help prevent a wheelchair operator from falling out of the chair or rolling down the ramp, and a guardrail can help prevent the wheelchair operator from slipping off the ramp or landing.\\nHandrail size and placement will depend on the height and arm strength of the primary user(s), as well as any local building code requirements that may be applicable to your structure. The typical height range of most handrail locations is between 31 and 34 inches.\\nThe width of the handrails should be less than or equal to 1.5 inches in diameter to ensure that the user can adequately grip the handrail. The diameter should be even smaller for children or adults with an impaired ability to grip or hold.\\nMany lumber yards sell ready-made vertical hand rails.\\nGuardrails should be mounted level with the primary user's seated knee height. This typically falls somewhere around 18 to 20 inches, though it's best to measure the primary user's seated knee height to ensure that the guardrails are effective and safe.\\nConsider adding on a roof and/or gutters if the ramp is close to the building. Water runoff from the roof of the building may create a slipping hazard for wheelchair users, and a roof/covering will also help protect the wheelchair operator from the elements. An alternate option is to build a small extension off the roof to protect the ramp from runoff.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use treated lumber only.\", \"描述\": \"Treated lumber is more durable and will weather precipitation and seasonal changes far better than untreated lumber. Even if the structure is a temporary one, it is considered a standard of ramp design to use treated lumber for the safety of the operator and the durability of the structure.\\nIt's generally best to choose medium-length lumber. For 2x4 and 2x6 boards, that means 16 feet or less in length. For 4x4 posts, choose beams that are 10 feet or less in length.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the ramp with screws.\", \"描述\": \"Nails can potentially come undone with time and use, which could cause a safety hazard. For a stable, durable wheelchair ramp that won't come undone, use screws to assemble the ramp. Nails should only be used for joist hangers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig posts for permanent ramp.\", \"描述\": \"If building a permanent structure, you'll need to dig post holes to properly stabilize and secure the ramp. The posts themselves should be four inches by four inches in size (4x4), and should be spaced no more than eight feet apart, with six feet being the ideal spacing.\\nCross-brace each post in at least one position in each direction. This will help give lateral stability to the posts.\\nAttach stringers to the posts using 3.5 inch screws. Use 1/4 inch by 4 inch high shear strength screws at each load joint and to fasten the sill to the home.\\nIf the stringers are not at ground level or very close to it, use joist hangers on the stringers. To secure these, use hanger nails 1 and 5/8 inch. For all other fastenings, use screws instead of nails to ensure a stable structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay down an anti-slip surface.\", \"描述\": \"Some municipal codes require an anti-slip running surface that extends the entire length of the ramp. Even if this precaution is not required, it is still highly recommended by building and safety experts. There are many options for creating an anti-slip surface, and the option you choose may depend on personal preferences.\\nFor wooden ramps, you can use a commercial \\\"grit\\\" tape, strips of roofing or shingling, or a coating of polyurethane sprinkled with sand. All of these materials are available at most hardware or building supply stores.\\nFor a concrete ramp, you can create an anti-slip surface by brushing the concrete with a broom while the concrete is still drying/hardening to create a rougher, less-smooth texture.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Consider hiring a contractor who specializes in accessibility issues to install your ramp.\\n\", \"You can find codes regarding construction requirements at your local building department office, the library, or online. Check your local telephone directory for locations and contact information, or search online for building codes in your region.\\n\", \"Examine photographs or actual ramps in your neighborhood for ideas and inspiration. Talk to the owners and ask them for building suggestions, or ask who their contractor was.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"You can be legally liable if somebody has an injury on your property, or if you provide a ramp that does not conform exactly to required specifications.\\n\", \"Consider local conditions when choosing materials for your ramp. For example, if you have a great deal of snow much of the time, additional traction and a roof/gutter may be needed.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,620 |
How to Make a DIY Whelping Box
|
1. Cutting the Plywood
1-1. Saw your .75 inches (1.9 cm) thick sheet of plywood in half.
The plywood sheet should be 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) starting out. Use a pencil and ruler to mark the halfway point on the sheet of plywood. You can use either a hand saw or circular saw to cut through the sheet.
You can ask at the lumber yard or home center where you bought the plywood if they can cut it for you.
1-2. Keep a 4 feet (1.2 m) square of plywood for the floor.
After you've cut the plywood sheet, cut it again to make this 4 feet (1.2 m) square. This square will form the basis for the floor of the whelping box.
1-3. Cut three strips, each 4 feet (1.2 m) long and 16 inches (41 cm) wide.
These strips will form the outside walls of the whelping box later in the process. Use your pencil and ruler to outline the size of the strips on the plywood before you cut the strips.
1-4. Make a strip 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, 4 ft (1.2 m) long, and 1 ft (0.30 m) wide.
This strip will be the doorway which the dam of the puppies can use to enter and exit the whelping box. Once again, mark the outline of this strip with a pencil and ruler before you cut it.
Make the doorway a couple of inches taller for larger breeds.
2. Constructing the Box
2-1. Cover the 4 feet (1.2 m) square with self-adhesive contact paper.
Lay your contact paper out beforehand and measure it. Use a ruler to measure the contact paper and mark the measurements with a pencil. Cut the sections of contact paper using scissors.
Lay the contact paper on the plywood square and use your fingers to stick it to the wood.
Remove any air bubbles in the contact paper by rubbing it with your palms.
2-2. Secure the contact paper to the plywood with a staple gun.
The self-adhesive contact paper should stick to the plywood itself. Even if the contact paper seems secure, it might lift up and the puppies could chew on it. Use the staple gun to secure the contact paper to the floor of the whelping box. Staple as close to the sides of the floor as you can.
Place staples between two different pieces of contact paper if you want extra security. Aim the staple gun so the staple pierces the edge of one piece and the edge of another, binding them.
2-3. Place the 3 4 feet (1.2 m) long strips along the sides of the floor.
Make sure you line the strips up perfectly with the floor of the box. These strips will form the 3 walls of the whelping box.
When you're finished, the three strips should form a "U" shape along the sides of the floor.
2-4. Drill holes in the walls and floor with a 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) drill-bit.
If you need to, have someone stand on the plywood floor and hold each wall as you drill the holes into the plywood. Drill holes at the corners of each wall and another hole in the center of each wall.
When you're finished, each wall should have a hole at its left and right sides and another hole in the middle.
2-5. Attach the walls to the floor using 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws.
Use your screwdriver and screws to secure the walls to the floor of the whelping box. Turn the screws to the right to secure them in place. Keep turning the screwdriver until it's very difficult to keep turning it.
When all the screws are in place, pull and push on the walls with a medium amount of force. If they rattle or feel insecure, use the screwdriver to tighten the screws.
You might need to drill extra holes between the middle screws and the outside screws in each wall if the walls aren't secure enough. Use the screwdriver to place the screws in these holes.
2-6. Line the doorway strip up and secure it to the floor with screws.
Again, drill holes in the left side, middle, and right side of the doorway strip when you have it lined up with the floor of the whelping box. Use your screwdriver and 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws to secure the doorway strip to the rest of the whelping box.
If the walls needed extra holes and screws to be adequately secured, do the same with the doorway strip.
3. Positioning and Maintaining Your Whelping Box
3-1. Place the box in a quiet location in your house.
While the dam is whelping, you'll need to be able to keep a constant eye on her and her puppies. It's vital that the dam and her puppies have the space to sleep and relax. If you have noisy children, you'll need to put your whelping box in a place where the puppies and dam won't be frequently disturbed.
An easily accessible location in the house is the best place for the box.
The basement, garage, attic, and laundry room are all suitable places for your whelping box.
3-2. Make sure the temperature of the room suits the type of dog.
Some breeds are double coated, such as Huskies and German Shepherds. These dogs will be more comfortable in cooler rooms such as the attic or garage. If the weather is warm, use a fan or air-conditioning to cool your dogs.
Some small dogs will feel the cold more. Try to keep small dogs in warmer areas of the house. You can use an appropriate heater by the whelping box if required.
3-3. Lay newspaper down on the floor of the box.
The young puppies will probably need to go to the toilet frequently in their first few weeks. Whenever the puppies do go to the toilet in the box, remove the newspaper and replace it with fresh newspaper.
Use gloves when removing the old newspaper from the box.
3-4. Place the mother and her puppies in the box.
You can also decide to place the dam in the whelping box before she gives birth. This way all the puppies will be born in the whelping box. If she gives birth outside the box, guide her into it with a lead. Lift the puppies and place them gently into the whelping box.
Don't lift the dam as she will be fragile after giving birth.
3-5. Move the dogs to a kennel or pen four weeks after birth.
As the puppies grow, the whelping box will become more and more crowded. The puppies will get more inquisitive and they will want to explore the areas outside of the small whelping box. After three to four weeks, the dogs should be healthy and big enough to move to a kennel.
After three to four weeks, the whelping box will also develop an odor.
If you can't move the puppies to a kennel or pen, let them roam around outside for a few hours each day. Keep an eye on them as they roam. It's important that you play and interact with them at this stage. Socializing with people is vital for a dog's development at a young age.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting the Plywood\\n1-1. Saw your .75 inches (1.9 cm) thick sheet of plywood in half.\\nThe plywood sheet should be 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) starting out. Use a pencil and ruler to mark the halfway point on the sheet of plywood. You can use either a hand saw or circular saw to cut through the sheet.\\nYou can ask at the lumber yard or home center where you bought the plywood if they can cut it for you.\\n1-2. Keep a 4 feet (1.2 m) square of plywood for the floor.\\nAfter you've cut the plywood sheet, cut it again to make this 4 feet (1.2 m) square. This square will form the basis for the floor of the whelping box.\\n1-3. Cut three strips, each 4 feet (1.2 m) long and 16 inches (41 cm) wide.\\nThese strips will form the outside walls of the whelping box later in the process. Use your pencil and ruler to outline the size of the strips on the plywood before you cut the strips.\\n1-4. Make a strip 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, 4 ft (1.2 m) long, and 1 ft (0.30 m) wide.\\nThis strip will be the doorway which the dam of the puppies can use to enter and exit the whelping box. Once again, mark the outline of this strip with a pencil and ruler before you cut it.\\nMake the doorway a couple of inches taller for larger breeds.\\n2. Constructing the Box\\n2-1. Cover the 4 feet (1.2 m) square with self-adhesive contact paper.\\nLay your contact paper out beforehand and measure it. Use a ruler to measure the contact paper and mark the measurements with a pencil. Cut the sections of contact paper using scissors.\\nLay the contact paper on the plywood square and use your fingers to stick it to the wood.\\nRemove any air bubbles in the contact paper by rubbing it with your palms.\\n2-2. Secure the contact paper to the plywood with a staple gun.\\nThe self-adhesive contact paper should stick to the plywood itself. Even if the contact paper seems secure, it might lift up and the puppies could chew on it. Use the staple gun to secure the contact paper to the floor of the whelping box. Staple as close to the sides of the floor as you can. \\nPlace staples between two different pieces of contact paper if you want extra security. Aim the staple gun so the staple pierces the edge of one piece and the edge of another, binding them.\\n2-3. Place the 3 4 feet (1.2 m) long strips along the sides of the floor.\\nMake sure you line the strips up perfectly with the floor of the box. These strips will form the 3 walls of the whelping box. \\nWhen you're finished, the three strips should form a \\\"U\\\" shape along the sides of the floor.\\n2-4. Drill holes in the walls and floor with a 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) drill-bit.\\nIf you need to, have someone stand on the plywood floor and hold each wall as you drill the holes into the plywood. Drill holes at the corners of each wall and another hole in the center of each wall.\\nWhen you're finished, each wall should have a hole at its left and right sides and another hole in the middle.\\n2-5. Attach the walls to the floor using 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws.\\nUse your screwdriver and screws to secure the walls to the floor of the whelping box. Turn the screws to the right to secure them in place. Keep turning the screwdriver until it's very difficult to keep turning it.\\nWhen all the screws are in place, pull and push on the walls with a medium amount of force. If they rattle or feel insecure, use the screwdriver to tighten the screws.\\nYou might need to drill extra holes between the middle screws and the outside screws in each wall if the walls aren't secure enough. Use the screwdriver to place the screws in these holes.\\n2-6. Line the doorway strip up and secure it to the floor with screws.\\nAgain, drill holes in the left side, middle, and right side of the doorway strip when you have it lined up with the floor of the whelping box. Use your screwdriver and 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws to secure the doorway strip to the rest of the whelping box.\\nIf the walls needed extra holes and screws to be adequately secured, do the same with the doorway strip.\\n3. Positioning and Maintaining Your Whelping Box\\n3-1. Place the box in a quiet location in your house.\\nWhile the dam is whelping, you'll need to be able to keep a constant eye on her and her puppies. It's vital that the dam and her puppies have the space to sleep and relax. If you have noisy children, you'll need to put your whelping box in a place where the puppies and dam won't be frequently disturbed.\\nAn easily accessible location in the house is the best place for the box.\\nThe basement, garage, attic, and laundry room are all suitable places for your whelping box.\\n3-2. Make sure the temperature of the room suits the type of dog.\\nSome breeds are double coated, such as Huskies and German Shepherds. These dogs will be more comfortable in cooler rooms such as the attic or garage. If the weather is warm, use a fan or air-conditioning to cool your dogs.\\nSome small dogs will feel the cold more. Try to keep small dogs in warmer areas of the house. You can use an appropriate heater by the whelping box if required.\\n3-3. Lay newspaper down on the floor of the box.\\nThe young puppies will probably need to go to the toilet frequently in their first few weeks. Whenever the puppies do go to the toilet in the box, remove the newspaper and replace it with fresh newspaper.\\nUse gloves when removing the old newspaper from the box.\\n3-4. Place the mother and her puppies in the box.\\nYou can also decide to place the dam in the whelping box before she gives birth. This way all the puppies will be born in the whelping box. If she gives birth outside the box, guide her into it with a lead. Lift the puppies and place them gently into the whelping box.\\nDon't lift the dam as she will be fragile after giving birth.\\n3-5. Move the dogs to a kennel or pen four weeks after birth.\\nAs the puppies grow, the whelping box will become more and more crowded. The puppies will get more inquisitive and they will want to explore the areas outside of the small whelping box. After three to four weeks, the dogs should be healthy and big enough to move to a kennel.\\nAfter three to four weeks, the whelping box will also develop an odor.\\nIf you can't move the puppies to a kennel or pen, let them roam around outside for a few hours each day. Keep an eye on them as they roam. It's important that you play and interact with them at this stage. Socializing with people is vital for a dog's development at a young age.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Your new litter of pups is adorable, and those cuties deserve their own space. Female dogs need to be contained with their puppies in one area for a few weeks after birth, and the best way to do so is by placing them in a whelping box. While you can buy a whelping box at any pet store or online, it's easy and cheap to build a whelping box at home. We'll show you how to cut and assemble your very own, as well as offer a few tips on how to make it perfect for your puppies.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting the Plywood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Saw your .75 inches (1.9 cm) thick sheet of plywood in half.\", \"描述\": \"The plywood sheet should be 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) starting out. Use a pencil and ruler to mark the halfway point on the sheet of plywood. You can use either a hand saw or circular saw to cut through the sheet.\\nYou can ask at the lumber yard or home center where you bought the plywood if they can cut it for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep a 4 feet (1.2 m) square of plywood for the floor.\", \"描述\": \"After you've cut the plywood sheet, cut it again to make this 4 feet (1.2 m) square. This square will form the basis for the floor of the whelping box.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut three strips, each 4 feet (1.2 m) long and 16 inches (41 cm) wide.\", \"描述\": \"These strips will form the outside walls of the whelping box later in the process. Use your pencil and ruler to outline the size of the strips on the plywood before you cut the strips.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a strip 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, 4 ft (1.2 m) long, and 1 ft (0.30 m) wide.\", \"描述\": \"This strip will be the doorway which the dam of the puppies can use to enter and exit the whelping box. Once again, mark the outline of this strip with a pencil and ruler before you cut it.\\nMake the doorway a couple of inches taller for larger breeds.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cover the 4 feet (1.2 m) square with self-adhesive contact paper.\", \"描述\": \"Lay your contact paper out beforehand and measure it. Use a ruler to measure the contact paper and mark the measurements with a pencil. Cut the sections of contact paper using scissors.\\nLay the contact paper on the plywood square and use your fingers to stick it to the wood.\\nRemove any air bubbles in the contact paper by rubbing it with your palms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure the contact paper to the plywood with a staple gun.\", \"描述\": \"The self-adhesive contact paper should stick to the plywood itself. Even if the contact paper seems secure, it might lift up and the puppies could chew on it. Use the staple gun to secure the contact paper to the floor of the whelping box. Staple as close to the sides of the floor as you can. \\nPlace staples between two different pieces of contact paper if you want extra security. Aim the staple gun so the staple pierces the edge of one piece and the edge of another, binding them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the 3 4 feet (1.2 m) long strips along the sides of the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you line the strips up perfectly with the floor of the box. These strips will form the 3 walls of the whelping box. \\nWhen you're finished, the three strips should form a \\\"U\\\" shape along the sides of the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill holes in the walls and floor with a 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) drill-bit.\", \"描述\": \"If you need to, have someone stand on the plywood floor and hold each wall as you drill the holes into the plywood. Drill holes at the corners of each wall and another hole in the center of each wall.\\nWhen you're finished, each wall should have a hole at its left and right sides and another hole in the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the walls to the floor using 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws.\", \"描述\": \"Use your screwdriver and screws to secure the walls to the floor of the whelping box. Turn the screws to the right to secure them in place. Keep turning the screwdriver until it's very difficult to keep turning it.\\nWhen all the screws are in place, pull and push on the walls with a medium amount of force. If they rattle or feel insecure, use the screwdriver to tighten the screws.\\nYou might need to drill extra holes between the middle screws and the outside screws in each wall if the walls aren't secure enough. Use the screwdriver to place the screws in these holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Line the doorway strip up and secure it to the floor with screws.\", \"描述\": \"Again, drill holes in the left side, middle, and right side of the doorway strip when you have it lined up with the floor of the whelping box. Use your screwdriver and 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) screws to secure the doorway strip to the rest of the whelping box.\\nIf the walls needed extra holes and screws to be adequately secured, do the same with the doorway strip.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Positioning and Maintaining Your Whelping Box\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the box in a quiet location in your house.\", \"描述\": \"While the dam is whelping, you'll need to be able to keep a constant eye on her and her puppies. It's vital that the dam and her puppies have the space to sleep and relax. If you have noisy children, you'll need to put your whelping box in a place where the puppies and dam won't be frequently disturbed.\\nAn easily accessible location in the house is the best place for the box.\\nThe basement, garage, attic, and laundry room are all suitable places for your whelping box.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the temperature of the room suits the type of dog.\", \"描述\": \"Some breeds are double coated, such as Huskies and German Shepherds. These dogs will be more comfortable in cooler rooms such as the attic or garage. If the weather is warm, use a fan or air-conditioning to cool your dogs.\\nSome small dogs will feel the cold more. Try to keep small dogs in warmer areas of the house. You can use an appropriate heater by the whelping box if required.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay newspaper down on the floor of the box.\", \"描述\": \"The young puppies will probably need to go to the toilet frequently in their first few weeks. Whenever the puppies do go to the toilet in the box, remove the newspaper and replace it with fresh newspaper.\\nUse gloves when removing the old newspaper from the box.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the mother and her puppies in the box.\", \"描述\": \"You can also decide to place the dam in the whelping box before she gives birth. This way all the puppies will be born in the whelping box. If she gives birth outside the box, guide her into it with a lead. Lift the puppies and place them gently into the whelping box.\\nDon't lift the dam as she will be fragile after giving birth.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move the dogs to a kennel or pen four weeks after birth.\", \"描述\": \"As the puppies grow, the whelping box will become more and more crowded. The puppies will get more inquisitive and they will want to explore the areas outside of the small whelping box. After three to four weeks, the dogs should be healthy and big enough to move to a kennel.\\nAfter three to four weeks, the whelping box will also develop an odor.\\nIf you can't move the puppies to a kennel or pen, let them roam around outside for a few hours each day. Keep an eye on them as they roam. It's important that you play and interact with them at this stage. Socializing with people is vital for a dog's development at a young age.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,621 |
How to Build a Wind Turbine
|
1. Planning Your Wind Turbine
1-1. Determine the average wind speed where you plan to build.
To cost-effectively generate electricity, an efficient wind turbine needs wind to reach at least 7 to 10 miles per hour (11 to 16 kilometers per hour). Most wind turbines perform best at speeds from 12 to 20 mph (19 to 32 kph). To find the annual average wind speed for your area, you can check online wind maps that list the average wind speed in your area.
You can also purchase a wind measuring tool, called an anemometer, and use it take the wind speed at the location of your planned turbine. Do this daily for a period of time.
If the wind speed in your area is fairly consistent, a month of readings should be more than enough, though seasonal changes can drastically affect wind speed. Then, average your readings to see if a turbine at your location is reasonable.
1-2. Learn building code related to wind turbines.
Building code changes from area to area, so you'll have to inquire with your local government to make sure your turbine you don't violate code. Some codes stipulate a minimum distance between turbines, as well as how far away the turbine has to be from the property line. There may also be height limitations imposed by local ordinances that you'll need to take into account when building.
It's also a good idea to discuss building a wind turbine with your neighbors before investing too much time in planning and construction. This way, you can address their concerns about wind turbines and resolve any misconceptions they may have about noise, radio interference, and TV reception.
1-3. Evaluate spacing for your wind turbine.
Although the turbine itself doesn't require much space, to avoid potential conflicts with neighbors, you should generally have at least half an acre (0.2 hectare) of space for a turbine that generates up to 3 kilowatts of power and a full acre (0.4 hectare) for a turbine that generates up to 10 kilowatts. You should also have enough vertical space to build the turbine high enough so that buildings and trees don't block the wind.
1-4. Choose between pre-made or DIY wind turbine blades.
The kind of blades you use and configuration of your blades may affect the design of your turbine. Old farm windmills were basically small sails attached to a rotating shaft, but wind turbines resemble giant propellers and have large teardrop-shaped blades. These blades should be sized and pitched correctly for the turbine to work efficiently.
If you choose to build the blades, you can make them out of wood or cross-sections of PVC pipe. Instructions can be found online through a general Internet search for "DIY wind turbine blades."
Whether you build or buy the blades, you'll likely want to have 3 blades on your wind turbine. Using an even number of blades, such as 2 or 4, makes a wind turbine more likely to vibrate as it spins. Adding more blades increases torque but can make the turbine rotate more slowly.
Blades can also be made from household products, like modified shovels. If you plan on going this route, choose a sturdy shovel, and you may want to replace wooden handles with something more durable, like a metal haft.
1-5. Choose a generator.
Your wind turbine needs to be connected to a generator to produce electricity. Most generators are direct current (DC), which means that to use one to provide household current you'll need to connect the generator to a power inverter to produce the alternating current (AC) that household appliances use.
You could use an AC motor as a generator, although there may not be sufficient residual magnetism to produce a strong enough electric field.
A generator relies on motion, in this case the movement of your blades, and magnetic force to generate electricity. A pre-made generator will be the easiest option for beginners, but tutorials can be found to make your own by searching the internet for "making a wind turbine generator."
If you decide to buy a DC generator, look for one rated for high voltage and current and low rotation speed (several hundred instead of several thousand revolutions per minute). You need to generate at least 12 volts over a consistent period of time.
Your generator should be connected to a deep-cycle battery bank and charge controller in between the generator and inverter to protect the inverter and battery from power spikes. This will also provide power to the inverter during low-wind periods.
Automotive alternators are not recommended as generators. These generally need to spin at much faster speeds than wind turbines can sustain to generate power.
2. Assembling the Spindle and Spokes of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine
2-1. Assemble your spindle.
You may need to weld your spindle to your spindle plate, but many wind turbine kits come with this part already welded. If you are constructing your turbine from parts you have purchased or from surplus parts and need to weld, be sure you wear proper safety gear, like a welding visor, welding gauntlets, a welding jacket, and work boots.
By putting together your spindle first, you can construct your turbine piece by piece by adding parts one at a time to it. This will likely be the most efficient way to put together your turbine if you are attempting this project on your own.
2-2. Slide your hub into place on your spindle.
To prevent a buildup of friction and deterioration of your spindle/hub, you should place a bearing between the two parts. Fit your bearing over the tapered end of your spindle sticking up from the spindle plate and slide it toward the plate until it comes to a rest at the thicker portion of the spindle. Then slide your hub into place to rest on the bearing so that the studs of your hub face upward.
There should be a clearance of about 4" (10.2 cm) between your spindle and the bearing. In high force winds, your turbine may flex, causing the blades to his, and damage, your spindle.
If you don't have a kit and are building your hub from scratch, you might consider using a 4 on 4 trailer hub. This can be bought at most stores that carry trailer supplies, like your local automotive parts store.
2-3. Attach the lower spoke flange to your hub.
The flange should have holes for the studs of your hub to slide through, with protruding tabs to which you'll attach each of your spokes. Line up your flange with the studs of your hub and maneuver it into place. Once your flange is resting evenly on your hub, fasten it into place with lug nuts, tightening the nuts first by hand and then more firmly with a socket wrench.
2-4. Connect your spokes.
You will have two sets of spokes per blade of your turbine, giving you a total of six spokes for a three bladed turbine. You'll need bolts to connect your spokes to the tabs of your lower flange and spacers to separate the lower spokes from the upper ones. Then:
Slide a bolt through a hole in one of the flange tabs, fit your spoke onto the bolt, apply the spacer to the bolt, fit your second spoke into place on the bolt, and sandwich the spokes and spacer into place with your upper flange. Your lower and upper flange should be the same shape, with the same number of spoke attachment tabs.
Screw the bolt into the upper flange with your hand to keep the flange in place, then fasten the other bolts for your first set of spokes. Repeat this process for all of your spokes.
Once all your spokes are sandwiched between your lower and upper flanges, you should use a socket wrench to tighten your bolts. Once the bolts are tightened, your lower and upper flange and spokes should be sturdy and able to spin easily along with the hub on your bearing.
Since your turbine assembly will be exposed to consistent force from the wind and other environmental factors, you'll want your bolts to connect your spokes firmly. To guarantee a good connection, you should use a thread locking compound, which will be available at most hardware stores.
2-5. Attach four studs to your upper flange.
These studs should be threaded and each stud should be 2/8" (6 cm) long and ¼" (.635 cm) thick. You may need to use a hack saw to cut a threaded rod with this thickness to the correct length. Then, screw your studs in place by hand into the top of your upper flange so that each screw is equally distributed around the spindle shaft.
Only screw the studs into the flange far enough so that each stud is upright and sturdy. All studs should stick out of the flange an equal distance.
If you use a hacksaw to cut a threaded metal rod, be careful not to damage the threading when you do so. Damaged threading could result in you not being able to fasten parts into place correctly.
You'll want these studs to be sturdily attached, much like the bolts you used for your spokes. To this end, you should use a thread locking compound on your studs.
3. Mounting the Magnets of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine
3-1. Place your lower magnet rotor onto the studs.
You can either make your upper and lower magnet rotors with a rotor plate, epoxy, and 2" by 1" by ½" neodymium magnets, or you can buy this part prefabricated as part of a wind turbine kit or from a wind turbine part manufacturer. With the magnets facing up, fit the bottom plate of your magnet rotor onto the four studs you have fastened to your flange.
Whether you make your own or use a kit-made magnet rotor, always be careful when handling individual magnets or the magnet rotor plates. The magnetic forces of these are very strong and can cause serious injury if not handled with caution.
Neodymium magnets are fairly brittle. You'll need 24 of these, 12 for your top magnet rotor and 12 for the bottom one, but you might want to purchase extra in case one breaks during construction of your plate. These magnets are available for purchase online.
3-2. Make a magnet rotor, if necessary.
If you are using a kit that came with a magnet rotor plate, you will only need to fit the plate onto the studs as described previously. For a homemade magnet rotor, you'll want your magnets equally distributed around the edge of your rotor. To prevent misplacing a magnet and potentially ruining your rotor, draw a magnet placement template on card stock or paper.
Your template will occupy the middle of your rotor where the magnets will not be. Lines extending from the center to the edges of your template will indicate where magnets should be placed on the rotor. Tape can be used to hold your template in place and example templates can be found online.
You should mark the polarity of your magnets before you begin placement. This can be done with a marker. If your magnets get jumbled together and you cannot tell the polarity, make a tester by gluing a weak magnet to a popsicle stick.
Pass the "N" polarity side of your tester over the neodymium magnet. If you feel a push, the magnet is the same polarity. If you feel a pull, the polarity of the magnet you are testing is opposite.
Use a pea-sized amount of epoxy when mounting your magnets. This should be applied to the bottom of each magnet before placing.
Being careful to keep your fingers from between the magnet and rotor, slowly move the magnet to corner of the rotor plate. The magnet should grab onto the plate, and then you can slide it into the correct position using your template.
3-3. Place spacers on your studs.
You can use /8" (.375 cm) metal tubing cut into 1¼" (3.175 cm) long segments to create your spaces. You should cut these as accurately as you can. Slide your spacers over the studs sticking up from your magnet rotor.
Spacers that are unequal in length could create a slanted position for your upper magnet disk. This could be dangerous, and could also negatively impact the efficiency of your turbine.
There should be a little over an inch (2.5 cm) of stud clearance above your spacers. This will allow hex nuts to fasten your upper magnet rotor, and all parts in between, together.
3-4. Place your stator on top of your lower magnet rotor.
A stator is a series of coiled wires that are a vital part of any generator. It can be bought as part of a wind turbine kit, from a wind turbine part manufacturer, or can be made on your own.The studs surrounding the central spindle shaft should stick up through the center of the stator, which should be centered with respect to the central spindle shaft.
Your stator will need three groupings of three coils of 24 gauge copper wire, with each coil having 320 windings of the copper wire. This can be time-consuming and difficult to make.
If you decide to make your own stator, an online search for "how to make a wind turbine stator" will walk you through the process.
3-5. Make a stator winder for homemade stators.
You can construct a stator winder from scrap wood and nails. Connect two pieces of plywood with four nails so that there is a gap of about 1" (2.5 cm) between the two pieces of wood. Your nails should be spaced in a rectangular pattern that corresponds to the dimensions of your magnets. Then you can more easily wind the copper wire for your stator.
When making your own stator, be sure to keep track of the beginning and ending of your stator coils. Each coil must be wound in the same direction. You might want to consider putting a colored piece of electrical tape on the beginning of each end every coil.
So that your coils don't unwind once you've finished, you should be taped together with electrical tape and secured with two-part epoxy. Allow your epoxy (and stator) to cure on wax paper for however long is indicated on your epoxy label.
3-6. Place your upper magnet rotor.
Use extreme caution; this is one of the most dangerous parts of the construction of your wind turbine. Stack four boards on your stator to either side of your central spindle, with the baseboards being thicker and your top boards thinner. 2 by 4 boards work well for upper boards.
Hold your upper magnet rotor so that your fingers are in the gap between your stacked boards, and slowly lower your upper rotor toward the lower one. Attempt to line up your upper rotor with the studs as you do so.
The magnetic field should grab the upper disk and pull it onto the boards you have placed. Then, lower the upper magnet rotor onto the studs by sliding out your boards one at a time. First remove one upper board, then the other.
Repeat this process with your lower boards to maneuver your upper magnet rotor into place. Then screw hex nuts onto your studs to fasten the rotor. Once this is complete, your upper rotor should be resting on the spacers with a small amount of the studs protruding from the top of it.
You may have to wiggle your boards back and forth to work each free of the upper magnet rotor. The magnetic force will be very powerful.
4. Finishing Your Turbine Assembly
4-1. Remove the assembly from the spindle.
Next you will be connecting your spindle to your tower. Doing so while your turbine assembly is attached to the spindle can be quite difficult to manage. Then you'll need to invert your assembly hub-upwards to complete your turbine.
Pull the assembly (including the hub, spokes, magnet rotors, stator, and all associated parts) off the spindle with an upwards motion. Then place your assembly on your work area, hub-side facing up.
4-2. Weld
If you have a kit, these parts were likely provided, but a metal plate attached to the top of a thick, sturdy metal pipe should suffice for your tower. Be sure that your pipe can withstand the forces the wind will be exerting on your wind turbine.
Your tower will need to be installed at a sturdy location. You might want to pour a concrete slab into which you install your tower to give it additional stability.
4-3. Install a bracket for your spindle and stator.
The bracket should fit over your spindle like a collar. You should then bolt the bracket into place, attaching the bracket to the tower. Then cut a /8" (.375 cm) threaded rod into four 4½" pieces. Use a thread locking compound first, and then use nuts and washers to attach these to the outside of your bracket facing upwards.
Nuts should be placed on the /8" (.375 cm) threaded rod studs about ¾ of the way from the top of the rod. These nuts will allow you to adjust the position of your stator while the rod holds it in place.
4-4. Place a tapered roller bearing on the spindle.
Before you do so, you should smear a liberal amount of general purpose bearing grease onto your bearing. After greasing, simply slide your tapered bearing onto the spindle so it rests at the base of your spindle.
The greasing process is most easily done with your fingers. Have some paper towel or a work rag close by to wipe your fingers clean once the bearing is greased and placed.
4-5. Attach the main assembly of your turbine.
Lift the main assembly so that the hub is facing upwards and settle it onto the spindle with the tapered bearing beneath. The mounting holes in your stator should line up with the /8" threaded rod studs that you fastened to your bracket.
Once the assembly is in place, you'll need to put another tapered bearing into the cap of your hub. Grease the bearing with general purpose bearing grease.
Atop your bearing you'll need to fasten a castle nut. The castle nut should be screwed into place with your fingers.
When you cannot turn the nut easily, unscrew it until the gap in the castle nut aligns with the hole in the shaft of your spindle. Slide a cotter pin in this hole and use pliers to bend the legs of the pin to lock the castle nut into place.
4-6. Fasten your stator and complete the turbine with a grease cap.
Use one hex nut per rod to lock the stator firmly into place on your assembly. Then, using two wrenches, adjust the hex nuts sandwiching your stator until it is directly in between the magnet rotors.
Once your stator is positioned, all you need to do is add a grease cap to the top of your hub and your turbine is complete.
5. Installing Turbine Electrical Components
5-1. Connect a charge controller to the battery or circuit.
Connecting the charge controller to the battery before connecting it to the wind turbine will prevent power spikes from forming. This, in turn, will prevent damage to your equipment.
5-2. Connect insulated wire to the charge controller.
This wire will transfer power from the generator to the charge controller. From there the electricity will pass into a battery or circuit.
Your wire should be like that found in power cords, with two lengths of wire bound in similar insulation. You can use an old extension cord with the plugs removed, if you wish.
5-3. Thread insulated wire through the base and tower shaft.
Insert the wire into the tower and up to the turbine assembly. You may need to use a string line or fish tape to help you thread the wire through the tower. Then, connect the wires to your generator.
5-4. Connect to a battery or circuit.
Now that you have your generator tied in to a charge controller and through the base of your tower, you're ready to tie in the line from your turbine. Whenever tying in an external electrical source to your main home circuit, you should consult a professional electrician. Many areas required a licensed professional to handle this kind of wiring.
Tips
You should enclose the charge controller to protect it from moisture, and you may also want to wire in a voltage meter to monitor power output.
Do some research about bird migrations within your area. If there are species that migrate at that area, avoid building turbines there.
Warnings
If you're planning to sell excess power back to your utility company, be aware that the utility normally sells power to you at retail prices but only buys it back at wholesale prices. You'll need to install a synchronous inverter that matches the AC frequency of the utility's power lines, as well as special switching gear. You may not be able to generate enough power to recoup the cost of such an installation, let alone turn a profit.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Wind Turbine\\n1-1. Determine the average wind speed where you plan to build.\\nTo cost-effectively generate electricity, an efficient wind turbine needs wind to reach at least 7 to 10 miles per hour (11 to 16 kilometers per hour). Most wind turbines perform best at speeds from 12 to 20 mph (19 to 32 kph). To find the annual average wind speed for your area, you can check online wind maps that list the average wind speed in your area.\\nYou can also purchase a wind measuring tool, called an anemometer, and use it take the wind speed at the location of your planned turbine. Do this daily for a period of time.\\nIf the wind speed in your area is fairly consistent, a month of readings should be more than enough, though seasonal changes can drastically affect wind speed. Then, average your readings to see if a turbine at your location is reasonable.\\n1-2. Learn building code related to wind turbines.\\nBuilding code changes from area to area, so you'll have to inquire with your local government to make sure your turbine you don't violate code. Some codes stipulate a minimum distance between turbines, as well as how far away the turbine has to be from the property line. There may also be height limitations imposed by local ordinances that you'll need to take into account when building.\\nIt's also a good idea to discuss building a wind turbine with your neighbors before investing too much time in planning and construction. This way, you can address their concerns about wind turbines and resolve any misconceptions they may have about noise, radio interference, and TV reception.\\n1-3. Evaluate spacing for your wind turbine.\\nAlthough the turbine itself doesn't require much space, to avoid potential conflicts with neighbors, you should generally have at least half an acre (0.2 hectare) of space for a turbine that generates up to 3 kilowatts of power and a full acre (0.4 hectare) for a turbine that generates up to 10 kilowatts. You should also have enough vertical space to build the turbine high enough so that buildings and trees don't block the wind.\\n1-4. Choose between pre-made or DIY wind turbine blades.\\nThe kind of blades you use and configuration of your blades may affect the design of your turbine. Old farm windmills were basically small sails attached to a rotating shaft, but wind turbines resemble giant propellers and have large teardrop-shaped blades. These blades should be sized and pitched correctly for the turbine to work efficiently.\\nIf you choose to build the blades, you can make them out of wood or cross-sections of PVC pipe. Instructions can be found online through a general Internet search for \\\"DIY wind turbine blades.\\\"\\nWhether you build or buy the blades, you'll likely want to have 3 blades on your wind turbine. Using an even number of blades, such as 2 or 4, makes a wind turbine more likely to vibrate as it spins. Adding more blades increases torque but can make the turbine rotate more slowly.\\nBlades can also be made from household products, like modified shovels. If you plan on going this route, choose a sturdy shovel, and you may want to replace wooden handles with something more durable, like a metal haft.\\n1-5. Choose a generator.\\nYour wind turbine needs to be connected to a generator to produce electricity. Most generators are direct current (DC), which means that to use one to provide household current you'll need to connect the generator to a power inverter to produce the alternating current (AC) that household appliances use.\\nYou could use an AC motor as a generator, although there may not be sufficient residual magnetism to produce a strong enough electric field.\\nA generator relies on motion, in this case the movement of your blades, and magnetic force to generate electricity. A pre-made generator will be the easiest option for beginners, but tutorials can be found to make your own by searching the internet for \\\"making a wind turbine generator.\\\"\\nIf you decide to buy a DC generator, look for one rated for high voltage and current and low rotation speed (several hundred instead of several thousand revolutions per minute). You need to generate at least 12 volts over a consistent period of time.\\nYour generator should be connected to a deep-cycle battery bank and charge controller in between the generator and inverter to protect the inverter and battery from power spikes. This will also provide power to the inverter during low-wind periods.\\nAutomotive alternators are not recommended as generators. These generally need to spin at much faster speeds than wind turbines can sustain to generate power.\\n2. Assembling the Spindle and Spokes of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine\\n2-1. Assemble your spindle.\\nYou may need to weld your spindle to your spindle plate, but many wind turbine kits come with this part already welded. If you are constructing your turbine from parts you have purchased or from surplus parts and need to weld, be sure you wear proper safety gear, like a welding visor, welding gauntlets, a welding jacket, and work boots.\\nBy putting together your spindle first, you can construct your turbine piece by piece by adding parts one at a time to it. This will likely be the most efficient way to put together your turbine if you are attempting this project on your own.\\n2-2. Slide your hub into place on your spindle.\\nTo prevent a buildup of friction and deterioration of your spindle/hub, you should place a bearing between the two parts. Fit your bearing over the tapered end of your spindle sticking up from the spindle plate and slide it toward the plate until it comes to a rest at the thicker portion of the spindle. Then slide your hub into place to rest on the bearing so that the studs of your hub face upward.\\nThere should be a clearance of about 4\\\" (10.2 cm) between your spindle and the bearing. In high force winds, your turbine may flex, causing the blades to his, and damage, your spindle.\\nIf you don't have a kit and are building your hub from scratch, you might consider using a 4 on 4 trailer hub. This can be bought at most stores that carry trailer supplies, like your local automotive parts store.\\n2-3. Attach the lower spoke flange to your hub.\\nThe flange should have holes for the studs of your hub to slide through, with protruding tabs to which you'll attach each of your spokes. Line up your flange with the studs of your hub and maneuver it into place. Once your flange is resting evenly on your hub, fasten it into place with lug nuts, tightening the nuts first by hand and then more firmly with a socket wrench.\\n2-4. Connect your spokes.\\nYou will have two sets of spokes per blade of your turbine, giving you a total of six spokes for a three bladed turbine. You'll need bolts to connect your spokes to the tabs of your lower flange and spacers to separate the lower spokes from the upper ones. Then:\\nSlide a bolt through a hole in one of the flange tabs, fit your spoke onto the bolt, apply the spacer to the bolt, fit your second spoke into place on the bolt, and sandwich the spokes and spacer into place with your upper flange. Your lower and upper flange should be the same shape, with the same number of spoke attachment tabs.\\nScrew the bolt into the upper flange with your hand to keep the flange in place, then fasten the other bolts for your first set of spokes. Repeat this process for all of your spokes.\\nOnce all your spokes are sandwiched between your lower and upper flanges, you should use a socket wrench to tighten your bolts. Once the bolts are tightened, your lower and upper flange and spokes should be sturdy and able to spin easily along with the hub on your bearing.\\nSince your turbine assembly will be exposed to consistent force from the wind and other environmental factors, you'll want your bolts to connect your spokes firmly. To guarantee a good connection, you should use a thread locking compound, which will be available at most hardware stores.\\n2-5. Attach four studs to your upper flange.\\nThese studs should be threaded and each stud should be 2/8\\\" (6 cm) long and ¼\\\" (.635 cm) thick. You may need to use a hack saw to cut a threaded rod with this thickness to the correct length. Then, screw your studs in place by hand into the top of your upper flange so that each screw is equally distributed around the spindle shaft.\\nOnly screw the studs into the flange far enough so that each stud is upright and sturdy. All studs should stick out of the flange an equal distance.\\nIf you use a hacksaw to cut a threaded metal rod, be careful not to damage the threading when you do so. Damaged threading could result in you not being able to fasten parts into place correctly.\\nYou'll want these studs to be sturdily attached, much like the bolts you used for your spokes. To this end, you should use a thread locking compound on your studs.\\n3. Mounting the Magnets of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine\\n3-1. Place your lower magnet rotor onto the studs.\\nYou can either make your upper and lower magnet rotors with a rotor plate, epoxy, and 2\\\" by 1\\\" by ½\\\" neodymium magnets, or you can buy this part prefabricated as part of a wind turbine kit or from a wind turbine part manufacturer. With the magnets facing up, fit the bottom plate of your magnet rotor onto the four studs you have fastened to your flange.\\nWhether you make your own or use a kit-made magnet rotor, always be careful when handling individual magnets or the magnet rotor plates. The magnetic forces of these are very strong and can cause serious injury if not handled with caution.\\nNeodymium magnets are fairly brittle. You'll need 24 of these, 12 for your top magnet rotor and 12 for the bottom one, but you might want to purchase extra in case one breaks during construction of your plate. These magnets are available for purchase online.\\n3-2. Make a magnet rotor, if necessary.\\nIf you are using a kit that came with a magnet rotor plate, you will only need to fit the plate onto the studs as described previously. For a homemade magnet rotor, you'll want your magnets equally distributed around the edge of your rotor. To prevent misplacing a magnet and potentially ruining your rotor, draw a magnet placement template on card stock or paper.\\nYour template will occupy the middle of your rotor where the magnets will not be. Lines extending from the center to the edges of your template will indicate where magnets should be placed on the rotor. Tape can be used to hold your template in place and example templates can be found online.\\nYou should mark the polarity of your magnets before you begin placement. This can be done with a marker. If your magnets get jumbled together and you cannot tell the polarity, make a tester by gluing a weak magnet to a popsicle stick.\\nPass the \\\"N\\\" polarity side of your tester over the neodymium magnet. If you feel a push, the magnet is the same polarity. If you feel a pull, the polarity of the magnet you are testing is opposite.\\nUse a pea-sized amount of epoxy when mounting your magnets. This should be applied to the bottom of each magnet before placing.\\nBeing careful to keep your fingers from between the magnet and rotor, slowly move the magnet to corner of the rotor plate. The magnet should grab onto the plate, and then you can slide it into the correct position using your template.\\n3-3. Place spacers on your studs.\\nYou can use /8\\\" (.375 cm) metal tubing cut into 1¼\\\" (3.175 cm) long segments to create your spaces. You should cut these as accurately as you can. Slide your spacers over the studs sticking up from your magnet rotor.\\nSpacers that are unequal in length could create a slanted position for your upper magnet disk. This could be dangerous, and could also negatively impact the efficiency of your turbine.\\nThere should be a little over an inch (2.5 cm) of stud clearance above your spacers. This will allow hex nuts to fasten your upper magnet rotor, and all parts in between, together.\\n3-4. Place your stator on top of your lower magnet rotor.\\nA stator is a series of coiled wires that are a vital part of any generator. It can be bought as part of a wind turbine kit, from a wind turbine part manufacturer, or can be made on your own.The studs surrounding the central spindle shaft should stick up through the center of the stator, which should be centered with respect to the central spindle shaft.\\nYour stator will need three groupings of three coils of 24 gauge copper wire, with each coil having 320 windings of the copper wire. This can be time-consuming and difficult to make.\\nIf you decide to make your own stator, an online search for \\\"how to make a wind turbine stator\\\" will walk you through the process.\\n3-5. Make a stator winder for homemade stators.\\nYou can construct a stator winder from scrap wood and nails. Connect two pieces of plywood with four nails so that there is a gap of about 1\\\" (2.5 cm) between the two pieces of wood. Your nails should be spaced in a rectangular pattern that corresponds to the dimensions of your magnets. Then you can more easily wind the copper wire for your stator.\\nWhen making your own stator, be sure to keep track of the beginning and ending of your stator coils. Each coil must be wound in the same direction. You might want to consider putting a colored piece of electrical tape on the beginning of each end every coil.\\nSo that your coils don't unwind once you've finished, you should be taped together with electrical tape and secured with two-part epoxy. Allow your epoxy (and stator) to cure on wax paper for however long is indicated on your epoxy label.\\n3-6. Place your upper magnet rotor.\\nUse extreme caution; this is one of the most dangerous parts of the construction of your wind turbine. Stack four boards on your stator to either side of your central spindle, with the baseboards being thicker and your top boards thinner. 2 by 4 boards work well for upper boards.\\nHold your upper magnet rotor so that your fingers are in the gap between your stacked boards, and slowly lower your upper rotor toward the lower one. Attempt to line up your upper rotor with the studs as you do so.\\nThe magnetic field should grab the upper disk and pull it onto the boards you have placed. Then, lower the upper magnet rotor onto the studs by sliding out your boards one at a time. First remove one upper board, then the other.\\nRepeat this process with your lower boards to maneuver your upper magnet rotor into place. Then screw hex nuts onto your studs to fasten the rotor. Once this is complete, your upper rotor should be resting on the spacers with a small amount of the studs protruding from the top of it.\\nYou may have to wiggle your boards back and forth to work each free of the upper magnet rotor. The magnetic force will be very powerful.\\n4. Finishing Your Turbine Assembly\\n4-1. Remove the assembly from the spindle.\\nNext you will be connecting your spindle to your tower. Doing so while your turbine assembly is attached to the spindle can be quite difficult to manage. Then you'll need to invert your assembly hub-upwards to complete your turbine.\\nPull the assembly (including the hub, spokes, magnet rotors, stator, and all associated parts) off the spindle with an upwards motion. Then place your assembly on your work area, hub-side facing up.\\n4-2. Weld\\nIf you have a kit, these parts were likely provided, but a metal plate attached to the top of a thick, sturdy metal pipe should suffice for your tower. Be sure that your pipe can withstand the forces the wind will be exerting on your wind turbine.\\nYour tower will need to be installed at a sturdy location. You might want to pour a concrete slab into which you install your tower to give it additional stability.\\n4-3. Install a bracket for your spindle and stator.\\nThe bracket should fit over your spindle like a collar. You should then bolt the bracket into place, attaching the bracket to the tower. Then cut a /8\\\" (.375 cm) threaded rod into four 4½\\\" pieces. Use a thread locking compound first, and then use nuts and washers to attach these to the outside of your bracket facing upwards.\\nNuts should be placed on the /8\\\" (.375 cm) threaded rod studs about ¾ of the way from the top of the rod. These nuts will allow you to adjust the position of your stator while the rod holds it in place.\\n4-4. Place a tapered roller bearing on the spindle.\\nBefore you do so, you should smear a liberal amount of general purpose bearing grease onto your bearing. After greasing, simply slide your tapered bearing onto the spindle so it rests at the base of your spindle.\\nThe greasing process is most easily done with your fingers. Have some paper towel or a work rag close by to wipe your fingers clean once the bearing is greased and placed.\\n4-5. Attach the main assembly of your turbine.\\nLift the main assembly so that the hub is facing upwards and settle it onto the spindle with the tapered bearing beneath. The mounting holes in your stator should line up with the /8\\\" threaded rod studs that you fastened to your bracket.\\nOnce the assembly is in place, you'll need to put another tapered bearing into the cap of your hub. Grease the bearing with general purpose bearing grease.\\nAtop your bearing you'll need to fasten a castle nut. The castle nut should be screwed into place with your fingers.\\nWhen you cannot turn the nut easily, unscrew it until the gap in the castle nut aligns with the hole in the shaft of your spindle. Slide a cotter pin in this hole and use pliers to bend the legs of the pin to lock the castle nut into place.\\n4-6. Fasten your stator and complete the turbine with a grease cap.\\nUse one hex nut per rod to lock the stator firmly into place on your assembly. Then, using two wrenches, adjust the hex nuts sandwiching your stator until it is directly in between the magnet rotors.\\nOnce your stator is positioned, all you need to do is add a grease cap to the top of your hub and your turbine is complete.\\n5. Installing Turbine Electrical Components\\n5-1. Connect a charge controller to the battery or circuit.\\nConnecting the charge controller to the battery before connecting it to the wind turbine will prevent power spikes from forming. This, in turn, will prevent damage to your equipment.\\n5-2. Connect insulated wire to the charge controller.\\nThis wire will transfer power from the generator to the charge controller. From there the electricity will pass into a battery or circuit.\\nYour wire should be like that found in power cords, with two lengths of wire bound in similar insulation. You can use an old extension cord with the plugs removed, if you wish.\\n5-3. Thread insulated wire through the base and tower shaft.\\nInsert the wire into the tower and up to the turbine assembly. You may need to use a string line or fish tape to help you thread the wire through the tower. Then, connect the wires to your generator.\\n5-4. Connect to a battery or circuit.\\nNow that you have your generator tied in to a charge controller and through the base of your tower, you're ready to tie in the line from your turbine. Whenever tying in an external electrical source to your main home circuit, you should consult a professional electrician. Many areas required a licensed professional to handle this kind of wiring.\\nTips\\nYou should enclose the charge controller to protect it from moisture, and you may also want to wire in a voltage meter to monitor power output.\\nDo some research about bird migrations within your area. If there are species that migrate at that area, avoid building turbines there.\\nWarnings\\nIf you're planning to sell excess power back to your utility company, be aware that the utility normally sells power to you at retail prices but only buys it back at wholesale prices. You'll need to install a synchronous inverter that matches the AC frequency of the utility's power lines, as well as special switching gear. You may not be able to generate enough power to recoup the cost of such an installation, let alone turn a profit.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A wind turbine is a simple mechanical device similar to the windmill. The blades of your turbine will catch air currents, using that motion to transmit mechanical energy along a drive shaft. This shaft will then turn the components of a generator, creating clean, renewable energy for your household and cutting down on your electric bills. What's more, your turbine can be mostly built with simple materials available at your local hardware store.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Wind Turbine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the average wind speed where you plan to build.\", \"描述\": \"To cost-effectively generate electricity, an efficient wind turbine needs wind to reach at least 7 to 10 miles per hour (11 to 16 kilometers per hour). Most wind turbines perform best at speeds from 12 to 20 mph (19 to 32 kph). To find the annual average wind speed for your area, you can check online wind maps that list the average wind speed in your area.\\nYou can also purchase a wind measuring tool, called an anemometer, and use it take the wind speed at the location of your planned turbine. Do this daily for a period of time.\\nIf the wind speed in your area is fairly consistent, a month of readings should be more than enough, though seasonal changes can drastically affect wind speed. Then, average your readings to see if a turbine at your location is reasonable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Learn building code related to wind turbines.\", \"描述\": \"Building code changes from area to area, so you'll have to inquire with your local government to make sure your turbine you don't violate code. Some codes stipulate a minimum distance between turbines, as well as how far away the turbine has to be from the property line. There may also be height limitations imposed by local ordinances that you'll need to take into account when building.\\nIt's also a good idea to discuss building a wind turbine with your neighbors before investing too much time in planning and construction. This way, you can address their concerns about wind turbines and resolve any misconceptions they may have about noise, radio interference, and TV reception.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Evaluate spacing for your wind turbine.\", \"描述\": \"Although the turbine itself doesn't require much space, to avoid potential conflicts with neighbors, you should generally have at least half an acre (0.2 hectare) of space for a turbine that generates up to 3 kilowatts of power and a full acre (0.4 hectare) for a turbine that generates up to 10 kilowatts. You should also have enough vertical space to build the turbine high enough so that buildings and trees don't block the wind.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose between pre-made or DIY wind turbine blades.\", \"描述\": \"The kind of blades you use and configuration of your blades may affect the design of your turbine. Old farm windmills were basically small sails attached to a rotating shaft, but wind turbines resemble giant propellers and have large teardrop-shaped blades. These blades should be sized and pitched correctly for the turbine to work efficiently.\\nIf you choose to build the blades, you can make them out of wood or cross-sections of PVC pipe. Instructions can be found online through a general Internet search for \\\"DIY wind turbine blades.\\\"\\nWhether you build or buy the blades, you'll likely want to have 3 blades on your wind turbine. Using an even number of blades, such as 2 or 4, makes a wind turbine more likely to vibrate as it spins. Adding more blades increases torque but can make the turbine rotate more slowly.\\nBlades can also be made from household products, like modified shovels. If you plan on going this route, choose a sturdy shovel, and you may want to replace wooden handles with something more durable, like a metal haft.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose a generator.\", \"描述\": \"Your wind turbine needs to be connected to a generator to produce electricity. Most generators are direct current (DC), which means that to use one to provide household current you'll need to connect the generator to a power inverter to produce the alternating current (AC) that household appliances use.\\nYou could use an AC motor as a generator, although there may not be sufficient residual magnetism to produce a strong enough electric field.\\nA generator relies on motion, in this case the movement of your blades, and magnetic force to generate electricity. A pre-made generator will be the easiest option for beginners, but tutorials can be found to make your own by searching the internet for \\\"making a wind turbine generator.\\\"\\nIf you decide to buy a DC generator, look for one rated for high voltage and current and low rotation speed (several hundred instead of several thousand revolutions per minute). You need to generate at least 12 volts over a consistent period of time.\\nYour generator should be connected to a deep-cycle battery bank and charge controller in between the generator and inverter to protect the inverter and battery from power spikes. This will also provide power to the inverter during low-wind periods.\\nAutomotive alternators are not recommended as generators. These generally need to spin at much faster speeds than wind turbines can sustain to generate power.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Spindle and Spokes of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble your spindle.\", \"描述\": \"You may need to weld your spindle to your spindle plate, but many wind turbine kits come with this part already welded. If you are constructing your turbine from parts you have purchased or from surplus parts and need to weld, be sure you wear proper safety gear, like a welding visor, welding gauntlets, a welding jacket, and work boots.\\nBy putting together your spindle first, you can construct your turbine piece by piece by adding parts one at a time to it. This will likely be the most efficient way to put together your turbine if you are attempting this project on your own.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Slide your hub into place on your spindle.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent a buildup of friction and deterioration of your spindle/hub, you should place a bearing between the two parts. Fit your bearing over the tapered end of your spindle sticking up from the spindle plate and slide it toward the plate until it comes to a rest at the thicker portion of the spindle. Then slide your hub into place to rest on the bearing so that the studs of your hub face upward.\\nThere should be a clearance of about 4\\\" (10.2 cm) between your spindle and the bearing. In high force winds, your turbine may flex, causing the blades to his, and damage, your spindle.\\nIf you don't have a kit and are building your hub from scratch, you might consider using a 4 on 4 trailer hub. This can be bought at most stores that carry trailer supplies, like your local automotive parts store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the lower spoke flange to your hub.\", \"描述\": \"The flange should have holes for the studs of your hub to slide through, with protruding tabs to which you'll attach each of your spokes. Line up your flange with the studs of your hub and maneuver it into place. Once your flange is resting evenly on your hub, fasten it into place with lug nuts, tightening the nuts first by hand and then more firmly with a socket wrench.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect your spokes.\", \"描述\": \"You will have two sets of spokes per blade of your turbine, giving you a total of six spokes for a three bladed turbine. You'll need bolts to connect your spokes to the tabs of your lower flange and spacers to separate the lower spokes from the upper ones. Then:\\nSlide a bolt through a hole in one of the flange tabs, fit your spoke onto the bolt, apply the spacer to the bolt, fit your second spoke into place on the bolt, and sandwich the spokes and spacer into place with your upper flange. Your lower and upper flange should be the same shape, with the same number of spoke attachment tabs.\\nScrew the bolt into the upper flange with your hand to keep the flange in place, then fasten the other bolts for your first set of spokes. Repeat this process for all of your spokes.\\nOnce all your spokes are sandwiched between your lower and upper flanges, you should use a socket wrench to tighten your bolts. Once the bolts are tightened, your lower and upper flange and spokes should be sturdy and able to spin easily along with the hub on your bearing.\\nSince your turbine assembly will be exposed to consistent force from the wind and other environmental factors, you'll want your bolts to connect your spokes firmly. To guarantee a good connection, you should use a thread locking compound, which will be available at most hardware stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach four studs to your upper flange.\", \"描述\": \"These studs should be threaded and each stud should be 2/8\\\" (6 cm) long and ¼\\\" (.635 cm) thick. You may need to use a hack saw to cut a threaded rod with this thickness to the correct length. Then, screw your studs in place by hand into the top of your upper flange so that each screw is equally distributed around the spindle shaft.\\nOnly screw the studs into the flange far enough so that each stud is upright and sturdy. All studs should stick out of the flange an equal distance.\\nIf you use a hacksaw to cut a threaded metal rod, be careful not to damage the threading when you do so. Damaged threading could result in you not being able to fasten parts into place correctly.\\nYou'll want these studs to be sturdily attached, much like the bolts you used for your spokes. To this end, you should use a thread locking compound on your studs.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mounting the Magnets of a Vertical Axis Wind Turbine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place your lower magnet rotor onto the studs.\", \"描述\": \"You can either make your upper and lower magnet rotors with a rotor plate, epoxy, and 2\\\" by 1\\\" by ½\\\" neodymium magnets, or you can buy this part prefabricated as part of a wind turbine kit or from a wind turbine part manufacturer. With the magnets facing up, fit the bottom plate of your magnet rotor onto the four studs you have fastened to your flange.\\nWhether you make your own or use a kit-made magnet rotor, always be careful when handling individual magnets or the magnet rotor plates. The magnetic forces of these are very strong and can cause serious injury if not handled with caution.\\nNeodymium magnets are fairly brittle. You'll need 24 of these, 12 for your top magnet rotor and 12 for the bottom one, but you might want to purchase extra in case one breaks during construction of your plate. These magnets are available for purchase online.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a magnet rotor, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using a kit that came with a magnet rotor plate, you will only need to fit the plate onto the studs as described previously. For a homemade magnet rotor, you'll want your magnets equally distributed around the edge of your rotor. To prevent misplacing a magnet and potentially ruining your rotor, draw a magnet placement template on card stock or paper.\\nYour template will occupy the middle of your rotor where the magnets will not be. Lines extending from the center to the edges of your template will indicate where magnets should be placed on the rotor. Tape can be used to hold your template in place and example templates can be found online.\\nYou should mark the polarity of your magnets before you begin placement. This can be done with a marker. If your magnets get jumbled together and you cannot tell the polarity, make a tester by gluing a weak magnet to a popsicle stick.\\nPass the \\\"N\\\" polarity side of your tester over the neodymium magnet. If you feel a push, the magnet is the same polarity. If you feel a pull, the polarity of the magnet you are testing is opposite.\\nUse a pea-sized amount of epoxy when mounting your magnets. This should be applied to the bottom of each magnet before placing.\\nBeing careful to keep your fingers from between the magnet and rotor, slowly move the magnet to corner of the rotor plate. The magnet should grab onto the plate, and then you can slide it into the correct position using your template.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place spacers on your studs.\", \"描述\": \"You can use /8\\\" (.375 cm) metal tubing cut into 1¼\\\" (3.175 cm) long segments to create your spaces. You should cut these as accurately as you can. Slide your spacers over the studs sticking up from your magnet rotor.\\nSpacers that are unequal in length could create a slanted position for your upper magnet disk. This could be dangerous, and could also negatively impact the efficiency of your turbine.\\nThere should be a little over an inch (2.5 cm) of stud clearance above your spacers. This will allow hex nuts to fasten your upper magnet rotor, and all parts in between, together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place your stator on top of your lower magnet rotor.\", \"描述\": \"A stator is a series of coiled wires that are a vital part of any generator. It can be bought as part of a wind turbine kit, from a wind turbine part manufacturer, or can be made on your own.The studs surrounding the central spindle shaft should stick up through the center of the stator, which should be centered with respect to the central spindle shaft.\\nYour stator will need three groupings of three coils of 24 gauge copper wire, with each coil having 320 windings of the copper wire. This can be time-consuming and difficult to make.\\nIf you decide to make your own stator, an online search for \\\"how to make a wind turbine stator\\\" will walk you through the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a stator winder for homemade stators.\", \"描述\": \"You can construct a stator winder from scrap wood and nails. Connect two pieces of plywood with four nails so that there is a gap of about 1\\\" (2.5 cm) between the two pieces of wood. Your nails should be spaced in a rectangular pattern that corresponds to the dimensions of your magnets. Then you can more easily wind the copper wire for your stator.\\nWhen making your own stator, be sure to keep track of the beginning and ending of your stator coils. Each coil must be wound in the same direction. You might want to consider putting a colored piece of electrical tape on the beginning of each end every coil.\\nSo that your coils don't unwind once you've finished, you should be taped together with electrical tape and secured with two-part epoxy. Allow your epoxy (and stator) to cure on wax paper for however long is indicated on your epoxy label.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place your upper magnet rotor.\", \"描述\": \"Use extreme caution; this is one of the most dangerous parts of the construction of your wind turbine. Stack four boards on your stator to either side of your central spindle, with the baseboards being thicker and your top boards thinner. 2 by 4 boards work well for upper boards.\\nHold your upper magnet rotor so that your fingers are in the gap between your stacked boards, and slowly lower your upper rotor toward the lower one. Attempt to line up your upper rotor with the studs as you do so.\\nThe magnetic field should grab the upper disk and pull it onto the boards you have placed. Then, lower the upper magnet rotor onto the studs by sliding out your boards one at a time. First remove one upper board, then the other.\\nRepeat this process with your lower boards to maneuver your upper magnet rotor into place. Then screw hex nuts onto your studs to fasten the rotor. Once this is complete, your upper rotor should be resting on the spacers with a small amount of the studs protruding from the top of it.\\nYou may have to wiggle your boards back and forth to work each free of the upper magnet rotor. The magnetic force will be very powerful.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing Your Turbine Assembly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove the assembly from the spindle.\", \"描述\": \"Next you will be connecting your spindle to your tower. Doing so while your turbine assembly is attached to the spindle can be quite difficult to manage. Then you'll need to invert your assembly hub-upwards to complete your turbine.\\nPull the assembly (including the hub, spokes, magnet rotors, stator, and all associated parts) off the spindle with an upwards motion. Then place your assembly on your work area, hub-side facing up.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Weld\", \"描述\": \"If you have a kit, these parts were likely provided, but a metal plate attached to the top of a thick, sturdy metal pipe should suffice for your tower. Be sure that your pipe can withstand the forces the wind will be exerting on your wind turbine.\\nYour tower will need to be installed at a sturdy location. You might want to pour a concrete slab into which you install your tower to give it additional stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install a bracket for your spindle and stator.\", \"描述\": \"The bracket should fit over your spindle like a collar. You should then bolt the bracket into place, attaching the bracket to the tower. Then cut a /8\\\" (.375 cm) threaded rod into four 4½\\\" pieces. Use a thread locking compound first, and then use nuts and washers to attach these to the outside of your bracket facing upwards.\\nNuts should be placed on the /8\\\" (.375 cm) threaded rod studs about ¾ of the way from the top of the rod. These nuts will allow you to adjust the position of your stator while the rod holds it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a tapered roller bearing on the spindle.\", \"描述\": \"Before you do so, you should smear a liberal amount of general purpose bearing grease onto your bearing. After greasing, simply slide your tapered bearing onto the spindle so it rests at the base of your spindle.\\nThe greasing process is most easily done with your fingers. Have some paper towel or a work rag close by to wipe your fingers clean once the bearing is greased and placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the main assembly of your turbine.\", \"描述\": \"Lift the main assembly so that the hub is facing upwards and settle it onto the spindle with the tapered bearing beneath. The mounting holes in your stator should line up with the /8\\\" threaded rod studs that you fastened to your bracket.\\nOnce the assembly is in place, you'll need to put another tapered bearing into the cap of your hub. Grease the bearing with general purpose bearing grease.\\nAtop your bearing you'll need to fasten a castle nut. The castle nut should be screwed into place with your fingers.\\nWhen you cannot turn the nut easily, unscrew it until the gap in the castle nut aligns with the hole in the shaft of your spindle. Slide a cotter pin in this hole and use pliers to bend the legs of the pin to lock the castle nut into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fasten your stator and complete the turbine with a grease cap.\", \"描述\": \"Use one hex nut per rod to lock the stator firmly into place on your assembly. Then, using two wrenches, adjust the hex nuts sandwiching your stator until it is directly in between the magnet rotors.\\nOnce your stator is positioned, all you need to do is add a grease cap to the top of your hub and your turbine is complete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Installing Turbine Electrical Components\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect a charge controller to the battery or circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Connecting the charge controller to the battery before connecting it to the wind turbine will prevent power spikes from forming. This, in turn, will prevent damage to your equipment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect insulated wire to the charge controller.\", \"描述\": \"This wire will transfer power from the generator to the charge controller. From there the electricity will pass into a battery or circuit.\\nYour wire should be like that found in power cords, with two lengths of wire bound in similar insulation. You can use an old extension cord with the plugs removed, if you wish.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Thread insulated wire through the base and tower shaft.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the wire into the tower and up to the turbine assembly. You may need to use a string line or fish tape to help you thread the wire through the tower. Then, connect the wires to your generator.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect to a battery or circuit.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have your generator tied in to a charge controller and through the base of your tower, you're ready to tie in the line from your turbine. Whenever tying in an external electrical source to your main home circuit, you should consult a professional electrician. Many areas required a licensed professional to handle this kind of wiring.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You should enclose the charge controller to protect it from moisture, and you may also want to wire in a voltage meter to monitor power output.\\n\", \"Do some research about bird migrations within your area. If there are species that migrate at that area, avoid building turbines there.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you're planning to sell excess power back to your utility company, be aware that the utility normally sells power to you at retail prices but only buys it back at wholesale prices. You'll need to install a synchronous inverter that matches the AC frequency of the utility's power lines, as well as special switching gear. You may not be able to generate enough power to recoup the cost of such an installation, let alone turn a profit.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,622 |
How to Build a Window Farm
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1. Steps
1-1. Have one empty bottle for each type of plant.
1-2. Cut off the bottoms of each bottle with the blade.
1-3. Hold each bottle inverted (neck down) and place a few clay fired pebbles into the bottles through the sliced-off bottom.
If the pellets have a tendency to fall out of the bottle's mouth, place a piece of cloth in the neck and then add the pebbles. These pebbles act as soil, holding enough water for the roots and also allowing for air to pass.
1-4. Place a sampling or plant cutting in each of these bottles.
Then, add more pebbles to hold the sapling in place
1-5. Fasten the cord to the 'waist' or neck of each of these bottles, looping it around each bottle, and connecting it to the next one.
The idea is that the cord should be able to hold each of these bottles so that when hung by the cord, the mouth of one leads into the bottom of the one below it.
1-6. Hang this arrangement from your windowsill
1-7. Prepare a nutrient solution and pour this solution into one of the tumblers.
1-8. Place one end of the pipe in this tumbler, and the other leading into the bottom of the topmost bottle (the bottom of the bottle will be at the very top of the arrangement)
1-9. Place the other tumbler at the bottom of the arrangement, to collect water coming through the mouth of the lowermost bottle
1-10. Arrange the pump for pumping water from the nutrient-rich tumbler, into the pipe, so that it is transmitted to the bottles.
You now have a working window garden.
Tips
Please understand that although most hydroponic systems ("hydroponics" means growing plants in a water-based solution) need an aquarium air pump to aerate the plants, this one needs a small pump for pumping water instead
Some of the supplies mentioned below will need to be purchased from a hydroponics store. This especially includes the clay fired pebbles and nutrient solution. However, if you want to be innovative, you may replace the pebbles with pieces of sponge, or hay. If you have the expertise, you may also prepare your own nutrient solution
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Have one empty bottle for each type of plant.\\n\\n1-2. Cut off the bottoms of each bottle with the blade.\\n\\n1-3. Hold each bottle inverted (neck down) and place a few clay fired pebbles into the bottles through the sliced-off bottom.\\nIf the pellets have a tendency to fall out of the bottle's mouth, place a piece of cloth in the neck and then add the pebbles. These pebbles act as soil, holding enough water for the roots and also allowing for air to pass.\\n1-4. Place a sampling or plant cutting in each of these bottles.\\nThen, add more pebbles to hold the sapling in place\\n1-5. Fasten the cord to the 'waist' or neck of each of these bottles, looping it around each bottle, and connecting it to the next one.\\nThe idea is that the cord should be able to hold each of these bottles so that when hung by the cord, the mouth of one leads into the bottom of the one below it.\\n1-6. Hang this arrangement from your windowsill\\n\\n\\n1-7. Prepare a nutrient solution and pour this solution into one of the tumblers.\\n\\n1-8. Place one end of the pipe in this tumbler, and the other leading into the bottom of the topmost bottle (the bottom of the bottle will be at the very top of the arrangement)\\n\\n\\n1-9. Place the other tumbler at the bottom of the arrangement, to collect water coming through the mouth of the lowermost bottle\\n\\n\\n1-10. Arrange the pump for pumping water from the nutrient-rich tumbler, into the pipe, so that it is transmitted to the bottles.\\nYou now have a working window garden.\\nTips\\nPlease understand that although most hydroponic systems (\\\"hydroponics\\\" means growing plants in a water-based solution) need an aquarium air pump to aerate the plants, this one needs a small pump for pumping water instead\\nSome of the supplies mentioned below will need to be purchased from a hydroponics store. This especially includes the clay fired pebbles and nutrient solution. However, if you want to be innovative, you may replace the pebbles with pieces of sponge, or hay. If you have the expertise, you may also prepare your own nutrient solution\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There are a number of reasons for choosing to grow your own food. For one, food is sometimes cultivated using techniques that not only reduce its nutritional value, but can actually be harmful to health. Plant produce may be sprayed with pesticides, herbicides and other harmful chemicals. Also, food often travels great distances to reach market shelves. This reduces its nutritional value to a fraction of what it originally had, and inflicts a great deal of harm on our planet because of the energy and fuel required to store and transport food. However, those of us who live in small homes or apartments do not have the space needed to cultivate food by conventional means. The window farm is a new concept that tries addressing this challenge. And what's more, you can build one using mostly-recycled materials and some electricity.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have one empty bottle for each type of plant.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut off the bottoms of each bottle with the blade.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hold each bottle inverted (neck down) and place a few clay fired pebbles into the bottles through the sliced-off bottom.\", \"描述\": \"If the pellets have a tendency to fall out of the bottle's mouth, place a piece of cloth in the neck and then add the pebbles. These pebbles act as soil, holding enough water for the roots and also allowing for air to pass.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place a sampling or plant cutting in each of these bottles.\", \"描述\": \"Then, add more pebbles to hold the sapling in place\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fasten the cord to the 'waist' or neck of each of these bottles, looping it around each bottle, and connecting it to the next one.\", \"描述\": \"The idea is that the cord should be able to hold each of these bottles so that when hung by the cord, the mouth of one leads into the bottom of the one below it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hang this arrangement from your windowsill\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Prepare a nutrient solution and pour this solution into one of the tumblers.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place one end of the pipe in this tumbler, and the other leading into the bottom of the topmost bottle (the bottom of the bottle will be at the very top of the arrangement)\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the other tumbler at the bottom of the arrangement, to collect water coming through the mouth of the lowermost bottle\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Arrange the pump for pumping water from the nutrient-rich tumbler, into the pipe, so that it is transmitted to the bottles.\", \"描述\": \"You now have a working window garden.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Please understand that although most hydroponic systems (\\\"hydroponics\\\" means growing plants in a water-based solution) need an aquarium air pump to aerate the plants, this one needs a small pump for pumping water instead\\n\", \"Some of the supplies mentioned below will need to be purchased from a hydroponics store. This especially includes the clay fired pebbles and nutrient solution. However, if you want to be innovative, you may replace the pebbles with pieces of sponge, or hay. If you have the expertise, you may also prepare your own nutrient solution\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,623 |
How to Build a Wine Cellar
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1. Constructing Your Wine Cellar
1-1. Choose an existing room to convert to a wine cellar.
Despite what the term suggests, just about any room can be used as a wine cellar as long as it’s well-insulated. Basements and cellars are among the best choices since they’ll already be cooler than other parts of your home, but you could also use a game room, spare bedroom, or even an unused closet.
The exact size of your wine cellar will depend on the space you have available, as well as the amount of wine you want to preserve.
When it comes to wine cellars, the cooler, the better. If possible, pick out a room that receives little or no direct exposure to sunlight throughout the day.
1-2. Make sure the area adjacent to your wine cellar has adequate ventilation.
To convert an ordinary room to a wine cellar, you’ll be installing a special cooling system that pumps warm exhaust air into a neighboring room. Try to select a room that contains at least one door, window, or air vent to allow the warm air to escape.
Most cooling systems only guarantee a 30-50 degree temperature differential. For this reason, it’s important that the adjacent room be no warmer than 85–100 °F (29–38 °C) to maintain the recommended temperature of 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) in the cellar.
If you’re building your wine cellar in a basement, you won’t have to worry about ventilating any other rooms, as the warm air will simply be dispersed outside.
1-3. Wrap the entire room with a vapor barrier to repel moisture.
Measure the walls and ceiling of your wine cellar and cut sections of waterproof 6mm plastic or foil sheeting to fit over them. Stretch and smooth each section so that it lays as flush as possible. Secure the vapor barrier along the edges with foil-backed tape to ensure that it stays in place.
Ask someone to assist you when it comes time to apply your barrier materials to the ceiling.
A preliminary vapor barrier will keep out unwanted moisture that could interfere with the humidity levels in your wine cellar.
1-4. Frame the room with wooden joists to prepare it for insulation.
Cut a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards to match the height of the walls. Position the boards vertically around the perimeter of the room on the inside of the vapor barrier, leaving 16 inches (41 cm) of space between each. Secure the joists with 2-3 nails at both the top and bottom ends. Do the same for the ceiling using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 8 in (20 cm) boards.
You might be able to get away with not framing the ceiling of your space if it's constructed of concrete.
The purpose of framing is to create enough distance between the outer walls and the room’s interior to install an extra layer of insulation, which will help maintain the right temperature for preservation and aging.
1-5. Fill the gaps in your frame with high-efficiency insulation materials.
Place 15 in (38 cm) fiberglass or foam batts into the spaces between each of the frame joists. For smaller spaces like closets, you can also use blown-in types of insulation like shredded fiberglass or low-dust cellulose for ease of installation.
Experts recommend using insulation with a rating of at least R-19 for wine cellar walls, and at least R-30 for ceilings. This means the insulation will be about 5.5 inches (14 cm) thick on each side, with a 10 in (25 cm) layer along the ceiling.
If you decide to go with a blown-in insulation, be sure to apply an additional vapor barrier to the inside of the frame joists to properly contain it.
1-6. Cover the insulated frame with drywall.
Once you’ve got your insulation in place, all that’s left to do is hang drywall to complete the basic structure of the room. Score your sheets to the right dimensions with a utility knife, then fasten them to the joists every 12 inches (30 cm) using drywall screws. Use 5-6 screws for each side of each sheet.
Be sure to tape over the seams between each sheet so they won’t be visible in the finished wall.
Lightweight gypsum board, or “green board,” can perform the same function as drywall or sheetrock, but with even greater moisture-resistant properties.
1-7. Paint the walls
Smooth on 2-3 even coats of paint in your shade of choice, allowing each coat to dry for 12-24 hours before applying follow-up coats. For maximum protection and durability, use a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) paint formula. PVA paints offer a smooth, resilient finish and serve as an additional barrier against moisture.
Painting in small, enclosed spaces increase your risk of exposure to harmful fumes. Be sure to open any nearby doors and windows and leave the air conditioning or a portable fan running to promote ventilation.
Another possible option is to have wood paneling installed rather than painting. Choose a rot-resistant type of wood, such as redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine, to prevent warping as a result of the surrounding humidity.
2. Creating Optimal Storage Conditions
2-1. Have a specialty cooling system installed in your wine cellar.
Hire an HVACR technician to come in and set up your cooling system for you. For home use, you’ll get the best results using a split system. These can be mounted directly to the wall of your wine cellar, with one half located inside the cellar itself and the other half situated outside to vent warm air exhaust.
There are many companies that make air conditioner-style cooling units designed specifically for wine cellars. Spend some time looking into different cooling systems online to find one that suits your individual needs and budget.
Keep in mind that you'll be paying for the system and the installation separately, which may drive up your total projected expenses.
2-2. Keep your cooling system set to 50–55 °F (10–13 °C).
This is the recommended temperature range for preserving and aging wine. If it’s too warm in your wine cellar, your wine can reach peak condition too fast and may be at risk of spoiling. If it’s too cold, your wine may age too slowly or be “shocked,” which can ruin the flavor.
Wine cooling units work similarly to standard heating and air conditioning systems—they’ll monitor the temperature in the room and increase or decrease the amount of cold air being circulated to keep it within the desired range.
Of course, temperature varies according to the wine you have. Over time, wine starts losing aromas and flavors. But they gain smoothness, reducing the "kick" of the alcohol and integrating it better into the rest of the wine. This process, while beneficial and desired in some aspects, is a little sped up if your temperature is warmer than it really should be.
2-3. Bring in a humidifier if your space is especially dry.
It’s possible that the room you’ve selected for your wine cellar may have a lower than ideal humidity, particularly in drier regions. In these cases, it can be a good idea to invest in a separate humidifier unit to keep in one corner of the cellar. The humidifier will supply enough moisture to bring the room to the optimum level of 50-75%.
Make sure the humidifier you pick out is a non-heating model—you don’t want to raise the temperature of the room by accident.
You can also introduce a little extra moisture by installing a decorative fountain somewhere in your wine cellar.
2-4. Make sure the humidity in your wine cellar remains between 50-75%.
The relative humidity of your space is a major concern. Too much humidity can lead to mold growth inside the cellar. Likewise, air that’s too dry can cause corks to crack and split, resulting in your wine being exposed prematurely or even potentially spilling.
Once you’ve programmed your cooling system, it will automatically work to maintain both the temperature and humidity in your wine cellar.
With most newer cooling systems, excess moisture in the surrounding environment is condensed and eliminated via a condensate evaporation system. If you prefer, you can also have a separate drain line installed to flush waste water outside.
3. Incorporating Essential Display Features
3-1. Line your wine cellar with racks to store and show off your collection.
If you have a particular design in mind to fit the look of your home wine cellar, get in touch with a rack maker to discuss ideas for custom storage solutions. Arrange your racks along the outer walls to maximize walking space, or line them up in the center of the room to create rows.
For a more cost-effective alternative, you can also shop for premade, ready-to-assemble racks online or in stores that specialize in wine accessories.
Wine racks come in all different sizes and styles, so be sure to shop around to find a set that speaks to your sensibilities.
3-2. Install showroom-style lighting
Mount light fixtures on the ceiling or floor at regular intervals and position them to point at your racks at upwards or downwards angles. They'll illuminate the selections you’re most proud of in a more impressive fashion than you could with ordinary ceiling lighting.
Some enthusiasts opt to avoid lighting altogether, since bright light can warm the room and impact the flavor of the wine. If you do decide to include a few decorative fixtures, make sure you use a low-voltage variety, such as fluorescent bulbs or LEDs.
Be careful not to damage your vapor barrier while installing and situating your light fixtures.
3-3. Set aside one corner of your wine cellar to use for tastings.
When it comes time to begin decorating your completed wine cellar, set out a table and a few comfortable chairs, or spend a little extra putting in a bar and some stools. That way, you and your friends can get together to enjoy a private sampling or chat over a glass of your finest reserve.
You could even add a tasting area to a compact wine cellar by installing a short section of countertop with room for a handful of individual racks, similar to a sink in a half-bath.
Tips
Building a wine cellar in your home can be a fun project for wine aficionados, but it’s not cheap. When it’s all said and done, it can cost between $500 and $1,500 per square foot to convert an ordinary room into a fully-functioning wine cellar.[22]
X
Research source
If you can’t afford a traditional wine cellar, consider investing in a climate-controlled wine cabinet instead. You can find models that hold dozens or hundreds of bottles, and they’re often available for $2,500-$10,000, which may be quite a bit less than putting in a wine cellar from scratch.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing Your Wine Cellar\\n1-1. Choose an existing room to convert to a wine cellar.\\nDespite what the term suggests, just about any room can be used as a wine cellar as long as it’s well-insulated. Basements and cellars are among the best choices since they’ll already be cooler than other parts of your home, but you could also use a game room, spare bedroom, or even an unused closet.\\nThe exact size of your wine cellar will depend on the space you have available, as well as the amount of wine you want to preserve.\\nWhen it comes to wine cellars, the cooler, the better. If possible, pick out a room that receives little or no direct exposure to sunlight throughout the day.\\n1-2. Make sure the area adjacent to your wine cellar has adequate ventilation.\\nTo convert an ordinary room to a wine cellar, you’ll be installing a special cooling system that pumps warm exhaust air into a neighboring room. Try to select a room that contains at least one door, window, or air vent to allow the warm air to escape.\\nMost cooling systems only guarantee a 30-50 degree temperature differential. For this reason, it’s important that the adjacent room be no warmer than 85–100 °F (29–38 °C) to maintain the recommended temperature of 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) in the cellar.\\nIf you’re building your wine cellar in a basement, you won’t have to worry about ventilating any other rooms, as the warm air will simply be dispersed outside.\\n1-3. Wrap the entire room with a vapor barrier to repel moisture.\\nMeasure the walls and ceiling of your wine cellar and cut sections of waterproof 6mm plastic or foil sheeting to fit over them. Stretch and smooth each section so that it lays as flush as possible. Secure the vapor barrier along the edges with foil-backed tape to ensure that it stays in place.\\nAsk someone to assist you when it comes time to apply your barrier materials to the ceiling.\\nA preliminary vapor barrier will keep out unwanted moisture that could interfere with the humidity levels in your wine cellar.\\n1-4. Frame the room with wooden joists to prepare it for insulation.\\nCut a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards to match the height of the walls. Position the boards vertically around the perimeter of the room on the inside of the vapor barrier, leaving 16 inches (41 cm) of space between each. Secure the joists with 2-3 nails at both the top and bottom ends. Do the same for the ceiling using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 8 in (20 cm) boards.\\nYou might be able to get away with not framing the ceiling of your space if it's constructed of concrete.\\nThe purpose of framing is to create enough distance between the outer walls and the room’s interior to install an extra layer of insulation, which will help maintain the right temperature for preservation and aging.\\n1-5. Fill the gaps in your frame with high-efficiency insulation materials.\\nPlace 15 in (38 cm) fiberglass or foam batts into the spaces between each of the frame joists. For smaller spaces like closets, you can also use blown-in types of insulation like shredded fiberglass or low-dust cellulose for ease of installation.\\nExperts recommend using insulation with a rating of at least R-19 for wine cellar walls, and at least R-30 for ceilings. This means the insulation will be about 5.5 inches (14 cm) thick on each side, with a 10 in (25 cm) layer along the ceiling.\\nIf you decide to go with a blown-in insulation, be sure to apply an additional vapor barrier to the inside of the frame joists to properly contain it.\\n1-6. Cover the insulated frame with drywall.\\nOnce you’ve got your insulation in place, all that’s left to do is hang drywall to complete the basic structure of the room. Score your sheets to the right dimensions with a utility knife, then fasten them to the joists every 12 inches (30 cm) using drywall screws. Use 5-6 screws for each side of each sheet.\\nBe sure to tape over the seams between each sheet so they won’t be visible in the finished wall.\\nLightweight gypsum board, or “green board,” can perform the same function as drywall or sheetrock, but with even greater moisture-resistant properties.\\n1-7. Paint the walls\\nSmooth on 2-3 even coats of paint in your shade of choice, allowing each coat to dry for 12-24 hours before applying follow-up coats. For maximum protection and durability, use a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) paint formula. PVA paints offer a smooth, resilient finish and serve as an additional barrier against moisture.\\nPainting in small, enclosed spaces increase your risk of exposure to harmful fumes. Be sure to open any nearby doors and windows and leave the air conditioning or a portable fan running to promote ventilation.\\nAnother possible option is to have wood paneling installed rather than painting. Choose a rot-resistant type of wood, such as redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine, to prevent warping as a result of the surrounding humidity.\\n2. Creating Optimal Storage Conditions\\n2-1. Have a specialty cooling system installed in your wine cellar.\\nHire an HVACR technician to come in and set up your cooling system for you. For home use, you’ll get the best results using a split system. These can be mounted directly to the wall of your wine cellar, with one half located inside the cellar itself and the other half situated outside to vent warm air exhaust.\\nThere are many companies that make air conditioner-style cooling units designed specifically for wine cellars. Spend some time looking into different cooling systems online to find one that suits your individual needs and budget.\\nKeep in mind that you'll be paying for the system and the installation separately, which may drive up your total projected expenses.\\n2-2. Keep your cooling system set to 50–55 °F (10–13 °C).\\nThis is the recommended temperature range for preserving and aging wine. If it’s too warm in your wine cellar, your wine can reach peak condition too fast and may be at risk of spoiling. If it’s too cold, your wine may age too slowly or be “shocked,” which can ruin the flavor.\\nWine cooling units work similarly to standard heating and air conditioning systems—they’ll monitor the temperature in the room and increase or decrease the amount of cold air being circulated to keep it within the desired range.\\nOf course, temperature varies according to the wine you have. Over time, wine starts losing aromas and flavors. But they gain smoothness, reducing the \\\"kick\\\" of the alcohol and integrating it better into the rest of the wine. This process, while beneficial and desired in some aspects, is a little sped up if your temperature is warmer than it really should be.\\n2-3. Bring in a humidifier if your space is especially dry.\\nIt’s possible that the room you’ve selected for your wine cellar may have a lower than ideal humidity, particularly in drier regions. In these cases, it can be a good idea to invest in a separate humidifier unit to keep in one corner of the cellar. The humidifier will supply enough moisture to bring the room to the optimum level of 50-75%.\\nMake sure the humidifier you pick out is a non-heating model—you don’t want to raise the temperature of the room by accident.\\nYou can also introduce a little extra moisture by installing a decorative fountain somewhere in your wine cellar.\\n2-4. Make sure the humidity in your wine cellar remains between 50-75%.\\nThe relative humidity of your space is a major concern. Too much humidity can lead to mold growth inside the cellar. Likewise, air that’s too dry can cause corks to crack and split, resulting in your wine being exposed prematurely or even potentially spilling.\\nOnce you’ve programmed your cooling system, it will automatically work to maintain both the temperature and humidity in your wine cellar.\\nWith most newer cooling systems, excess moisture in the surrounding environment is condensed and eliminated via a condensate evaporation system. If you prefer, you can also have a separate drain line installed to flush waste water outside.\\n3. Incorporating Essential Display Features\\n3-1. Line your wine cellar with racks to store and show off your collection.\\nIf you have a particular design in mind to fit the look of your home wine cellar, get in touch with a rack maker to discuss ideas for custom storage solutions. Arrange your racks along the outer walls to maximize walking space, or line them up in the center of the room to create rows.\\nFor a more cost-effective alternative, you can also shop for premade, ready-to-assemble racks online or in stores that specialize in wine accessories.\\nWine racks come in all different sizes and styles, so be sure to shop around to find a set that speaks to your sensibilities.\\n3-2. Install showroom-style lighting\\nMount light fixtures on the ceiling or floor at regular intervals and position them to point at your racks at upwards or downwards angles. They'll illuminate the selections you’re most proud of in a more impressive fashion than you could with ordinary ceiling lighting.\\nSome enthusiasts opt to avoid lighting altogether, since bright light can warm the room and impact the flavor of the wine. If you do decide to include a few decorative fixtures, make sure you use a low-voltage variety, such as fluorescent bulbs or LEDs.\\nBe careful not to damage your vapor barrier while installing and situating your light fixtures.\\n3-3. Set aside one corner of your wine cellar to use for tastings.\\nWhen it comes time to begin decorating your completed wine cellar, set out a table and a few comfortable chairs, or spend a little extra putting in a bar and some stools. That way, you and your friends can get together to enjoy a private sampling or chat over a glass of your finest reserve.\\nYou could even add a tasting area to a compact wine cellar by installing a short section of countertop with room for a handful of individual racks, similar to a sink in a half-bath.\\nTips\\nBuilding a wine cellar in your home can be a fun project for wine aficionados, but it’s not cheap. When it’s all said and done, it can cost between $500 and $1,500 per square foot to convert an ordinary room into a fully-functioning wine cellar.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf you can’t afford a traditional wine cellar, consider investing in a climate-controlled wine cabinet instead. You can find models that hold dozens or hundreds of bottles, and they’re often available for $2,500-$10,000, which may be quite a bit less than putting in a wine cellar from scratch.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re a wine connoisseur, a wine cellar can make a perfect addition to your home. The simplest way to build your own wine cellar is to renovate an existing room in your house. First, make sure the space you’ve chosen is properly framed and insulated. Then, purchase and install a specialized cooling system to keep your wine cellar within the optimum temperature and humidity range. When that’s done, you can begin picking out racks, lighting, and other decorative touches to put your own personal stamp on your home wine cellar.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing Your Wine Cellar\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose an existing room to convert to a wine cellar.\", \"描述\": \"Despite what the term suggests, just about any room can be used as a wine cellar as long as it’s well-insulated. Basements and cellars are among the best choices since they’ll already be cooler than other parts of your home, but you could also use a game room, spare bedroom, or even an unused closet.\\nThe exact size of your wine cellar will depend on the space you have available, as well as the amount of wine you want to preserve.\\nWhen it comes to wine cellars, the cooler, the better. If possible, pick out a room that receives little or no direct exposure to sunlight throughout the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the area adjacent to your wine cellar has adequate ventilation.\", \"描述\": \"To convert an ordinary room to a wine cellar, you’ll be installing a special cooling system that pumps warm exhaust air into a neighboring room. Try to select a room that contains at least one door, window, or air vent to allow the warm air to escape.\\nMost cooling systems only guarantee a 30-50 degree temperature differential. For this reason, it’s important that the adjacent room be no warmer than 85–100 °F (29–38 °C) to maintain the recommended temperature of 50–55 °F (10–13 °C) in the cellar.\\nIf you’re building your wine cellar in a basement, you won’t have to worry about ventilating any other rooms, as the warm air will simply be dispersed outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap the entire room with a vapor barrier to repel moisture.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the walls and ceiling of your wine cellar and cut sections of waterproof 6mm plastic or foil sheeting to fit over them. Stretch and smooth each section so that it lays as flush as possible. Secure the vapor barrier along the edges with foil-backed tape to ensure that it stays in place.\\nAsk someone to assist you when it comes time to apply your barrier materials to the ceiling.\\nA preliminary vapor barrier will keep out unwanted moisture that could interfere with the humidity levels in your wine cellar.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Frame the room with wooden joists to prepare it for insulation.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a series of 2 in (5.1 cm) x 6 in (15 cm) boards to match the height of the walls. Position the boards vertically around the perimeter of the room on the inside of the vapor barrier, leaving 16 inches (41 cm) of space between each. Secure the joists with 2-3 nails at both the top and bottom ends. Do the same for the ceiling using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 8 in (20 cm) boards.\\nYou might be able to get away with not framing the ceiling of your space if it's constructed of concrete.\\nThe purpose of framing is to create enough distance between the outer walls and the room’s interior to install an extra layer of insulation, which will help maintain the right temperature for preservation and aging.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill the gaps in your frame with high-efficiency insulation materials.\", \"描述\": \"Place 15 in (38 cm) fiberglass or foam batts into the spaces between each of the frame joists. For smaller spaces like closets, you can also use blown-in types of insulation like shredded fiberglass or low-dust cellulose for ease of installation.\\nExperts recommend using insulation with a rating of at least R-19 for wine cellar walls, and at least R-30 for ceilings. This means the insulation will be about 5.5 inches (14 cm) thick on each side, with a 10 in (25 cm) layer along the ceiling.\\nIf you decide to go with a blown-in insulation, be sure to apply an additional vapor barrier to the inside of the frame joists to properly contain it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the insulated frame with drywall.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve got your insulation in place, all that’s left to do is hang drywall to complete the basic structure of the room. Score your sheets to the right dimensions with a utility knife, then fasten them to the joists every 12 inches (30 cm) using drywall screws. Use 5-6 screws for each side of each sheet.\\nBe sure to tape over the seams between each sheet so they won’t be visible in the finished wall.\\nLightweight gypsum board, or “green board,” can perform the same function as drywall or sheetrock, but with even greater moisture-resistant properties.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paint the walls\", \"描述\": \"Smooth on 2-3 even coats of paint in your shade of choice, allowing each coat to dry for 12-24 hours before applying follow-up coats. For maximum protection and durability, use a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) paint formula. PVA paints offer a smooth, resilient finish and serve as an additional barrier against moisture.\\nPainting in small, enclosed spaces increase your risk of exposure to harmful fumes. Be sure to open any nearby doors and windows and leave the air conditioning or a portable fan running to promote ventilation.\\nAnother possible option is to have wood paneling installed rather than painting. Choose a rot-resistant type of wood, such as redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine, to prevent warping as a result of the surrounding humidity.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating Optimal Storage Conditions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have a specialty cooling system installed in your wine cellar.\", \"描述\": \"Hire an HVACR technician to come in and set up your cooling system for you. For home use, you’ll get the best results using a split system. These can be mounted directly to the wall of your wine cellar, with one half located inside the cellar itself and the other half situated outside to vent warm air exhaust.\\nThere are many companies that make air conditioner-style cooling units designed specifically for wine cellars. Spend some time looking into different cooling systems online to find one that suits your individual needs and budget.\\nKeep in mind that you'll be paying for the system and the installation separately, which may drive up your total projected expenses.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep your cooling system set to 50–55 °F (10–13 °C).\", \"描述\": \"This is the recommended temperature range for preserving and aging wine. If it’s too warm in your wine cellar, your wine can reach peak condition too fast and may be at risk of spoiling. If it’s too cold, your wine may age too slowly or be “shocked,” which can ruin the flavor.\\nWine cooling units work similarly to standard heating and air conditioning systems—they’ll monitor the temperature in the room and increase or decrease the amount of cold air being circulated to keep it within the desired range.\\nOf course, temperature varies according to the wine you have. Over time, wine starts losing aromas and flavors. But they gain smoothness, reducing the \\\"kick\\\" of the alcohol and integrating it better into the rest of the wine. This process, while beneficial and desired in some aspects, is a little sped up if your temperature is warmer than it really should be.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bring in a humidifier if your space is especially dry.\", \"描述\": \"It’s possible that the room you’ve selected for your wine cellar may have a lower than ideal humidity, particularly in drier regions. In these cases, it can be a good idea to invest in a separate humidifier unit to keep in one corner of the cellar. The humidifier will supply enough moisture to bring the room to the optimum level of 50-75%.\\nMake sure the humidifier you pick out is a non-heating model—you don’t want to raise the temperature of the room by accident.\\nYou can also introduce a little extra moisture by installing a decorative fountain somewhere in your wine cellar.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the humidity in your wine cellar remains between 50-75%.\", \"描述\": \"The relative humidity of your space is a major concern. Too much humidity can lead to mold growth inside the cellar. Likewise, air that’s too dry can cause corks to crack and split, resulting in your wine being exposed prematurely or even potentially spilling.\\nOnce you’ve programmed your cooling system, it will automatically work to maintain both the temperature and humidity in your wine cellar.\\nWith most newer cooling systems, excess moisture in the surrounding environment is condensed and eliminated via a condensate evaporation system. If you prefer, you can also have a separate drain line installed to flush waste water outside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Essential Display Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Line your wine cellar with racks to store and show off your collection.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a particular design in mind to fit the look of your home wine cellar, get in touch with a rack maker to discuss ideas for custom storage solutions. Arrange your racks along the outer walls to maximize walking space, or line them up in the center of the room to create rows.\\nFor a more cost-effective alternative, you can also shop for premade, ready-to-assemble racks online or in stores that specialize in wine accessories.\\nWine racks come in all different sizes and styles, so be sure to shop around to find a set that speaks to your sensibilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install showroom-style lighting\", \"描述\": \"Mount light fixtures on the ceiling or floor at regular intervals and position them to point at your racks at upwards or downwards angles. They'll illuminate the selections you’re most proud of in a more impressive fashion than you could with ordinary ceiling lighting.\\nSome enthusiasts opt to avoid lighting altogether, since bright light can warm the room and impact the flavor of the wine. If you do decide to include a few decorative fixtures, make sure you use a low-voltage variety, such as fluorescent bulbs or LEDs.\\nBe careful not to damage your vapor barrier while installing and situating your light fixtures.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set aside one corner of your wine cellar to use for tastings.\", \"描述\": \"When it comes time to begin decorating your completed wine cellar, set out a table and a few comfortable chairs, or spend a little extra putting in a bar and some stools. That way, you and your friends can get together to enjoy a private sampling or chat over a glass of your finest reserve.\\nYou could even add a tasting area to a compact wine cellar by installing a short section of countertop with room for a handful of individual racks, similar to a sink in a half-bath.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Building a wine cellar in your home can be a fun project for wine aficionados, but it’s not cheap. When it’s all said and done, it can cost between $500 and $1,500 per square foot to convert an ordinary room into a fully-functioning wine cellar.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If you can’t afford a traditional wine cellar, consider investing in a climate-controlled wine cabinet instead. You can find models that hold dozens or hundreds of bottles, and they’re often available for $2,500-$10,000, which may be quite a bit less than putting in a wine cellar from scratch.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,624 |
How to Build a Wolf Den for Your Wolf on Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get a dog.
In creative mode, you can spawn a wolf and it will automatically be tamed, but if you're in Survival, you'll need to find a wolf and tame it
on the wolf to give it the bone. If you see the hearts rising from the wolf, you've done it right. If the wolves eyes go red, you've attacked it by mistake. Feed the wolf enough times, and a shiny red collar will appear on your new pet's neck.
When you right click on the wolf, it should sit or stand. When it's sitting it stays put for you while in the standing position the wolf will follow you.
1-2. Find a safe place for you both to live.
For a wolf, the safest place would be nowhere up high, because if your wolf falls, it will die. For the rest, you can build your wolf den virtually anywhere.
1-3. Put your wolf in a temporary den.
This way it won't wander off while you make its real house.
The easiest way to make a pen is to build a 10x10 square from fences around your wolf, then attaching the wolf to one of the fences with a lead. Make sure you put a fence in this pen, so you can go and get your wolf when you're done.
1-4. Find a nice quiet place to start building.
1-5. Build a small gateway, using wood, that is 5 blocks up, 5 blocks across and 5 blocks down again.
1-6. Get your fences again and fence the opening, leaving a gate there as well.
1-7. Continue the opening into a tunnel, which will widen out 10 blocks up.
The widened room should be at least a 20x20 square. This will give your wolf enough room to roam about, instead of being cramped up in a pen.
1-8. Inside your new den, make a small 5x5 room, which should be enough to fit a bed in there.
If the bed doesn't fit, make the room bigger. Light up the whole place with torches, and then go back to your waiting wolf, whom should still be locked up in the pen you made earlier.
1-9. Open the pen and let your wolf out.
You can destroy the small pen if you want, or leave it. You could even build the same one directly next to your bigger one!
Let your wolf into its new den and let it sniff around. You may have to walk around to get it to follow you around the den.
Once your wolf has settled in, you can build a whole better house for yourself, or do anything for your wolf. But with this perfect den, you can be sure that your wolf is safe, and you have your very own room to be right next door to your furry friend! You could even get more wolves and raise your very own wolf breeding centre!
1-10. You can build a den like this for other animals too.
Just don't put a chicken with a wild wolf! Create your own animal farm or a place to live! There is always something to do in Minecraft!
Tips
If you are on Peaceful difficulty in any gamemode such wolves will not attack you even if you attack them first.
If you are in creative mode, the wolf will not attack you even if you attack them.
You can change the colour of the wolfs collar using dye.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get a dog.\\nIn creative mode, you can spawn a wolf and it will automatically be tamed, but if you're in Survival, you'll need to find a wolf and tame it\\n\\n on the wolf to give it the bone. If you see the hearts rising from the wolf, you've done it right. If the wolves eyes go red, you've attacked it by mistake. Feed the wolf enough times, and a shiny red collar will appear on your new pet's neck.\\nWhen you right click on the wolf, it should sit or stand. When it's sitting it stays put for you while in the standing position the wolf will follow you.\\n1-2. Find a safe place for you both to live.\\nFor a wolf, the safest place would be nowhere up high, because if your wolf falls, it will die. For the rest, you can build your wolf den virtually anywhere.\\n1-3. Put your wolf in a temporary den.\\nThis way it won't wander off while you make its real house.\\nThe easiest way to make a pen is to build a 10x10 square from fences around your wolf, then attaching the wolf to one of the fences with a lead. Make sure you put a fence in this pen, so you can go and get your wolf when you're done.\\n1-4. Find a nice quiet place to start building.\\n\\n1-5. Build a small gateway, using wood, that is 5 blocks up, 5 blocks across and 5 blocks down again.\\n\\n1-6. Get your fences again and fence the opening, leaving a gate there as well.\\n\\n1-7. Continue the opening into a tunnel, which will widen out 10 blocks up.\\nThe widened room should be at least a 20x20 square. This will give your wolf enough room to roam about, instead of being cramped up in a pen.\\n1-8. Inside your new den, make a small 5x5 room, which should be enough to fit a bed in there.\\nIf the bed doesn't fit, make the room bigger. Light up the whole place with torches, and then go back to your waiting wolf, whom should still be locked up in the pen you made earlier.\\n1-9. Open the pen and let your wolf out.\\nYou can destroy the small pen if you want, or leave it. You could even build the same one directly next to your bigger one!\\nLet your wolf into its new den and let it sniff around. You may have to walk around to get it to follow you around the den.\\nOnce your wolf has settled in, you can build a whole better house for yourself, or do anything for your wolf. But with this perfect den, you can be sure that your wolf is safe, and you have your very own room to be right next door to your furry friend! You could even get more wolves and raise your very own wolf breeding centre!\\n1-10. You can build a den like this for other animals too.\\nJust don't put a chicken with a wild wolf! Create your own animal farm or a place to live! There is always something to do in Minecraft!\\nTips\\nIf you are on Peaceful difficulty in any gamemode such wolves will not attack you even if you attack them first.\\nIf you are in creative mode, the wolf will not attack you even if you attack them.\\nYou can change the colour of the wolfs collar using dye.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Minecraft has a wide range if amazing animals, including the wolf. These are awesome animals to tame and keep as a pet, but do you know how to keep them or where to keep them?\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a dog.\", \"描述\": \"In creative mode, you can spawn a wolf and it will automatically be tamed, but if you're in Survival, you'll need to find a wolf and tame it\\n\\n on the wolf to give it the bone. If you see the hearts rising from the wolf, you've done it right. If the wolves eyes go red, you've attacked it by mistake. Feed the wolf enough times, and a shiny red collar will appear on your new pet's neck.\\nWhen you right click on the wolf, it should sit or stand. When it's sitting it stays put for you while in the standing position the wolf will follow you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a safe place for you both to live.\", \"描述\": \"For a wolf, the safest place would be nowhere up high, because if your wolf falls, it will die. For the rest, you can build your wolf den virtually anywhere.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put your wolf in a temporary den.\", \"描述\": \"This way it won't wander off while you make its real house.\\nThe easiest way to make a pen is to build a 10x10 square from fences around your wolf, then attaching the wolf to one of the fences with a lead. Make sure you put a fence in this pen, so you can go and get your wolf when you're done.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find a nice quiet place to start building.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build a small gateway, using wood, that is 5 blocks up, 5 blocks across and 5 blocks down again.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get your fences again and fence the opening, leaving a gate there as well.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Continue the opening into a tunnel, which will widen out 10 blocks up.\", \"描述\": \"The widened room should be at least a 20x20 square. This will give your wolf enough room to roam about, instead of being cramped up in a pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Inside your new den, make a small 5x5 room, which should be enough to fit a bed in there.\", \"描述\": \"If the bed doesn't fit, make the room bigger. Light up the whole place with torches, and then go back to your waiting wolf, whom should still be locked up in the pen you made earlier.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Open the pen and let your wolf out.\", \"描述\": \"You can destroy the small pen if you want, or leave it. You could even build the same one directly next to your bigger one!\\nLet your wolf into its new den and let it sniff around. You may have to walk around to get it to follow you around the den.\\nOnce your wolf has settled in, you can build a whole better house for yourself, or do anything for your wolf. But with this perfect den, you can be sure that your wolf is safe, and you have your very own room to be right next door to your furry friend! You could even get more wolves and raise your very own wolf breeding centre!\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"You can build a den like this for other animals too.\", \"描述\": \"Just don't put a chicken with a wild wolf! Create your own animal farm or a place to live! There is always something to do in Minecraft!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you are on Peaceful difficulty in any gamemode such wolves will not attack you even if you attack them first.\\n\", \"If you are in creative mode, the wolf will not attack you even if you attack them.\\n\", \"You can change the colour of the wolfs collar using dye.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,625 |
How to Build a Wood Duck House
|
1. Steps
1-1. Review the plan, gather materials and tools.
From one 11 1/4" (28.5 cm) wide by 12 foot (3.65 meters) long board you can make one nest box. The plan shown here explains how to divide the wood (click on the image to enlarge). It is best to use a weather resistant wood, such as cedar.
1-2. Lay out the design.
Pencil draw the different pieces onto the wood. Keep in mind the importance of measuring twice, cutting once.
1-3. Cut materials to size.
NOTE: The back edge of the roof part should be cut with the saw adjusted to a 20 degree angle so that it fits flush with the back of the box. NOTE: The front board in the layout is 1/2" (12.7 mm) too long. Cut off that 1/2" (12.7 mm) with the saw at a 20 degree angle (sloping away from the box) so the roof fits flush, and is therefore watertight.
After cutting the wood, you should end up with the following pieces: a back, two sides, a front, a floor, and a roof.
1-4. Dry fit the parts together to check the dimensions and angles.
Do not use screws yet; it is important to fit the parts together to check the design and angles, before drilling and fastening. If anything requires adjusting, now is the time to do so.
1-5. Create an entrance hole.
It is easiest to drill the hole before assembling the box. A hole sized 3" (7.6 cm) high by 4" (10.2 cm) wide will admit ducks, but exclude raccoons. A hole of these dimensions can be created with a 3" (7.6 cm) hole saw by "staggering" two holes, as shown in the image. Locate the center of the hole 19" (48.3 cm) above the base of the front part.
The hole will be cleaner if drilled a little from both sides of the board.
Use a rotary rasp or other tool to smooth out the oval opening.
1-6. Create traction.
The baby ducks will need a rough surface to grasp when attempting to leave the nest, and the momma duck will appreciate a rough surface on the front of the box when she lands. This can be accomplished by attaching screen or mesh, but suitable results may be obtained by setting the saw to make shallow Kerf cuts on both the interior and exterior of the front part.
1-7. Start assembling.
With the parts prepared, assembly can begin. Ring-shanked nails can be used, but exterior deck screws (2") (5 cm) create a more durable design that can withstand the elements for several years. To avoid splitting the wood, it is advisable to pre-drill the holes first.
1-8. After the hole is drilled, insert a deck screw.
It is handy to have two drills, one for the hole, and the other with a bit to drive the screws.
1-9. Create drainage.
Recess the bottom about 1/4" (6.35 mm) from the box base in order to provide a drip edge and to avoid rot. Drill holes in the base or cut about 1/4" (6.3 mm) off the corners for ventilation and drainage.
1-10. Make an access point.
One of the side parts should be cut to provide access for cleaning out old nesting material. Hinges can be used, but it is cheaper to simply use well placed nails (near the top of the opening board) as a pivot for the door. NOTE: The board in this example was cut at a 20 degree angle to prevent rainwater leakage into the box (water doesn't like to run up-hill).
1-11. Use sturdy wire to loop together two screws heads to secure the cleaning door.
Raccoons can work a simple latch.
A 1" X 11 1/4" (2.5 cm x 28.5 cm) strip can be used to hold the back of the lid in place and to further prevent rainwater leakage (see strip on lid in final image).
1-12. Check that the wood duck nesting box is ready to place outside.
When you're happy with it, place it in a suitable location to attract the local wood ducks. Ducks Unlimited advises that a wood duck nesting box is best placed on a wooden post or a metal pole designed with predator guards.
Boxes placed on posts in water should be about 5 feet (1.52 meters) above the water's surface.
Boxes may be placed in woodlands areas up to one-half mile from water in trees or on a post at least 8 feet (2.4 meters) high, but preferably 20 feet (6.09 meters) high. To reduce the chances of predation, they should be 30 to 100 feet (9.14 meters to 30.48 meters) from the water's edge.
Keep in mind to place the box:
Near suitable brood habitat;
Near shallow, fertile wetlands with thick cover; and
Where there is a plentiful supply of invertebrates for eating.
Don't forget to add a 4" (10.16 cm) layer of wood shavings for the nesting material. Suitable shavings include "chain saw" wood chips (or cedar wood chip bedding such as found in pet stores).
Tips
Use exterior deck screws.
Measure twice, cut once.
Use weather resistant wood.
Warnings
Power tools can be dangerous, use more than common sense when using them.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Review the plan, gather materials and tools.\\nFrom one 11 1/4\\\" (28.5 cm) wide by 12 foot (3.65 meters) long board you can make one nest box. The plan shown here explains how to divide the wood (click on the image to enlarge). It is best to use a weather resistant wood, such as cedar.\\n1-2. Lay out the design.\\nPencil draw the different pieces onto the wood. Keep in mind the importance of measuring twice, cutting once.\\n1-3. Cut materials to size.\\nNOTE: The back edge of the roof part should be cut with the saw adjusted to a 20 degree angle so that it fits flush with the back of the box. NOTE: The front board in the layout is 1/2\\\" (12.7 mm) too long. Cut off that 1/2\\\" (12.7 mm) with the saw at a 20 degree angle (sloping away from the box) so the roof fits flush, and is therefore watertight.\\nAfter cutting the wood, you should end up with the following pieces: a back, two sides, a front, a floor, and a roof.\\n1-4. Dry fit the parts together to check the dimensions and angles.\\nDo not use screws yet; it is important to fit the parts together to check the design and angles, before drilling and fastening. If anything requires adjusting, now is the time to do so.\\n1-5. Create an entrance hole.\\nIt is easiest to drill the hole before assembling the box. A hole sized 3\\\" (7.6 cm) high by 4\\\" (10.2 cm) wide will admit ducks, but exclude raccoons. A hole of these dimensions can be created with a 3\\\" (7.6 cm) hole saw by \\\"staggering\\\" two holes, as shown in the image. Locate the center of the hole 19\\\" (48.3 cm) above the base of the front part.\\nThe hole will be cleaner if drilled a little from both sides of the board.\\nUse a rotary rasp or other tool to smooth out the oval opening.\\n1-6. Create traction.\\nThe baby ducks will need a rough surface to grasp when attempting to leave the nest, and the momma duck will appreciate a rough surface on the front of the box when she lands. This can be accomplished by attaching screen or mesh, but suitable results may be obtained by setting the saw to make shallow Kerf cuts on both the interior and exterior of the front part.\\n1-7. Start assembling.\\nWith the parts prepared, assembly can begin. Ring-shanked nails can be used, but exterior deck screws (2\\\") (5 cm) create a more durable design that can withstand the elements for several years. To avoid splitting the wood, it is advisable to pre-drill the holes first.\\n1-8. After the hole is drilled, insert a deck screw.\\nIt is handy to have two drills, one for the hole, and the other with a bit to drive the screws.\\n1-9. Create drainage.\\nRecess the bottom about 1/4\\\" (6.35 mm) from the box base in order to provide a drip edge and to avoid rot. Drill holes in the base or cut about 1/4\\\" (6.3 mm) off the corners for ventilation and drainage.\\n1-10. Make an access point.\\nOne of the side parts should be cut to provide access for cleaning out old nesting material. Hinges can be used, but it is cheaper to simply use well placed nails (near the top of the opening board) as a pivot for the door. NOTE: The board in this example was cut at a 20 degree angle to prevent rainwater leakage into the box (water doesn't like to run up-hill).\\n1-11. Use sturdy wire to loop together two screws heads to secure the cleaning door.\\nRaccoons can work a simple latch.\\nA 1\\\" X 11 1/4\\\" (2.5 cm x 28.5 cm) strip can be used to hold the back of the lid in place and to further prevent rainwater leakage (see strip on lid in final image).\\n1-12. Check that the wood duck nesting box is ready to place outside.\\nWhen you're happy with it, place it in a suitable location to attract the local wood ducks. Ducks Unlimited advises that a wood duck nesting box is best placed on a wooden post or a metal pole designed with predator guards.\\nBoxes placed on posts in water should be about 5 feet (1.52 meters) above the water's surface.\\nBoxes may be placed in woodlands areas up to one-half mile from water in trees or on a post at least 8 feet (2.4 meters) high, but preferably 20 feet (6.09 meters) high. To reduce the chances of predation, they should be 30 to 100 feet (9.14 meters to 30.48 meters) from the water's edge.\\nKeep in mind to place the box:\\nNear suitable brood habitat;\\nNear shallow, fertile wetlands with thick cover; and\\nWhere there is a plentiful supply of invertebrates for eating.\\n\\nDon't forget to add a 4\\\" (10.16 cm) layer of wood shavings for the nesting material. Suitable shavings include \\\"chain saw\\\" wood chips (or cedar wood chip bedding such as found in pet stores).\\nTips\\nUse exterior deck screws.\\nMeasure twice, cut once.\\nUse weather resistant wood.\\nWarnings\\nPower tools can be dangerous, use more than common sense when using them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The wood duck (Aix sponsa) is a colorful bird that usually nests in abandoned woodpecker holes, but will readily take to a nesting box of the correct dimensions, placed in the proper location. Early in this century, wood duck populations were in decline; with a little time and effort, and some simple woodworking tools, you can help in the comeback of this fine bird by creating a wood duck nesting box for your local feathered friends.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Review the plan, gather materials and tools.\", \"描述\": \"From one 11 1/4\\\" (28.5 cm) wide by 12 foot (3.65 meters) long board you can make one nest box. The plan shown here explains how to divide the wood (click on the image to enlarge). It is best to use a weather resistant wood, such as cedar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out the design.\", \"描述\": \"Pencil draw the different pieces onto the wood. Keep in mind the importance of measuring twice, cutting once.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut materials to size.\", \"描述\": \"NOTE: The back edge of the roof part should be cut with the saw adjusted to a 20 degree angle so that it fits flush with the back of the box. NOTE: The front board in the layout is 1/2\\\" (12.7 mm) too long. Cut off that 1/2\\\" (12.7 mm) with the saw at a 20 degree angle (sloping away from the box) so the roof fits flush, and is therefore watertight.\\nAfter cutting the wood, you should end up with the following pieces: a back, two sides, a front, a floor, and a roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dry fit the parts together to check the dimensions and angles.\", \"描述\": \"Do not use screws yet; it is important to fit the parts together to check the design and angles, before drilling and fastening. If anything requires adjusting, now is the time to do so.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create an entrance hole.\", \"描述\": \"It is easiest to drill the hole before assembling the box. A hole sized 3\\\" (7.6 cm) high by 4\\\" (10.2 cm) wide will admit ducks, but exclude raccoons. A hole of these dimensions can be created with a 3\\\" (7.6 cm) hole saw by \\\"staggering\\\" two holes, as shown in the image. Locate the center of the hole 19\\\" (48.3 cm) above the base of the front part.\\nThe hole will be cleaner if drilled a little from both sides of the board.\\nUse a rotary rasp or other tool to smooth out the oval opening.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create traction.\", \"描述\": \"The baby ducks will need a rough surface to grasp when attempting to leave the nest, and the momma duck will appreciate a rough surface on the front of the box when she lands. This can be accomplished by attaching screen or mesh, but suitable results may be obtained by setting the saw to make shallow Kerf cuts on both the interior and exterior of the front part.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Start assembling.\", \"描述\": \"With the parts prepared, assembly can begin. Ring-shanked nails can be used, but exterior deck screws (2\\\") (5 cm) create a more durable design that can withstand the elements for several years. To avoid splitting the wood, it is advisable to pre-drill the holes first.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"After the hole is drilled, insert a deck screw.\", \"描述\": \"It is handy to have two drills, one for the hole, and the other with a bit to drive the screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Create drainage.\", \"描述\": \"Recess the bottom about 1/4\\\" (6.35 mm) from the box base in order to provide a drip edge and to avoid rot. Drill holes in the base or cut about 1/4\\\" (6.3 mm) off the corners for ventilation and drainage.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Make an access point.\", \"描述\": \"One of the side parts should be cut to provide access for cleaning out old nesting material. Hinges can be used, but it is cheaper to simply use well placed nails (near the top of the opening board) as a pivot for the door. NOTE: The board in this example was cut at a 20 degree angle to prevent rainwater leakage into the box (water doesn't like to run up-hill).\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Use sturdy wire to loop together two screws heads to secure the cleaning door.\", \"描述\": \"Raccoons can work a simple latch.\\nA 1\\\" X 11 1/4\\\" (2.5 cm x 28.5 cm) strip can be used to hold the back of the lid in place and to further prevent rainwater leakage (see strip on lid in final image).\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Check that the wood duck nesting box is ready to place outside.\", \"描述\": \"When you're happy with it, place it in a suitable location to attract the local wood ducks. Ducks Unlimited advises that a wood duck nesting box is best placed on a wooden post or a metal pole designed with predator guards.\\nBoxes placed on posts in water should be about 5 feet (1.52 meters) above the water's surface.\\nBoxes may be placed in woodlands areas up to one-half mile from water in trees or on a post at least 8 feet (2.4 meters) high, but preferably 20 feet (6.09 meters) high. To reduce the chances of predation, they should be 30 to 100 feet (9.14 meters to 30.48 meters) from the water's edge.\\nKeep in mind to place the box:\\nNear suitable brood habitat;\\nNear shallow, fertile wetlands with thick cover; and\\nWhere there is a plentiful supply of invertebrates for eating.\\n\\nDon't forget to add a 4\\\" (10.16 cm) layer of wood shavings for the nesting material. Suitable shavings include \\\"chain saw\\\" wood chips (or cedar wood chip bedding such as found in pet stores).\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use exterior deck screws.\\n\", \"Measure twice, cut once.\\n\", \"Use weather resistant wood.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Power tools can be dangerous, use more than common sense when using them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,626 |
How to Build a Wood Fence
|
1. Preparing to Build a Wood Fence
1-1. Check on any local restrictions.
It's important to check that your fence is not illegal before you build it! If there are any restrictions on fences in your neighborhood or in your city, then all your hard work can be torn down. Check with your local planning department and neighborhood association before you get too far into the process.
1-2. Apply for a permit.
Most cities require a building permit in order to place a fence. Get one to ensure that both you and your fence are safe! Many electrical, gas and sewer lines, as well as water mains are buried at the levels you will be digging to. When you apply for a permit, you should also call 811 to request that your local utility companies come out to the site and mark any areas where pipes and wires are located. This will help to ensure the safety of your project.
1-3. Choose your materials.
You'll want to be sure that you're using wood that will last a long time, right? If you use the best woods and treat them well, a wood fence can last 20 years or more. But choose the wrong wood and your fence might only make it 5 years. Consult with your local lumberyard to find the best wood for your area, but treated woods are usually your best option.
1-4. Decide on a style.
There are also lots of different styles of wood fences. Do some research before you start so that you don't end up with builder's remorse! There are picket, lattice, concave, convex, board on board, shadowbox, privacy, and many other styles with just as many variations within each style. Each style also has specifics of how the fence should be built and how the boards should be placed.
The information in this article is general and can apply broadly to many fence styles, but you might want to find specifics on your fence style to compliment these instructions.
2. Constructing Your Fence
2-1. Find your property line.
Determine where your property line is before you start so that you don't accidentally go over. The best advice is to hire a Registered Land Surveyor in your home state to mark the property line for you before you begin construction. Your city or town usually does not keep very detailed records of your property's boundary information. GIS (geographic information system) maps and Assessors maps are highly inaccurate when it comes to property boundaries.
You can search for Property\Survey Pins on your property. These are also located on the corners of a lot. Just because an old fence or other “assumed” property boundary was\is in place that does not always mean that it is correct.
2-2. Decide on the height.
Choose a fence height before getting too far into the project. Six foot is normal for a privacy fence, a livestock fence four feet high is usually sufficient, and picket fences are often three feet high. Fence height is important in the early stages, as it determines things like post hole depth.
Most cities have a height ordinance, so be sure to check this before you choose your fence height.
2-3. Stake the corner locations.
Place stakes at the corners roughly where you wish your fence to go.
2-4. Square the corners.
Tie a string around the stakes and run the string between stakes. Use a square or square-level to make sure that the corners" where our stakes are placed are squared (the two sides form a 90° angle).
You can also square the corners by measuring the strings. Measure 3' on one side and 4' on the other. If the distance between the two marks (diagonally) is equal to 5', then the corner is square.
2-5. Stake the middle posts.
Measure out lengths of 8' or less along the strings once you've square your corners and stake those locations to indicate the location for your support posts.
You generally want to take the total distance and divide it by 8 but if you have a length of fence that is not divisible by 8, you'll need to break it down into smaller sections. For example, a 24' fence would need 2 middle posts to create the three 8' sections, but a 25' fence would need 3 middle posts at 6.25' for each section in order to look even and be structurally sound.
To find the length and number for odd fence lengths, go up to the next number of posts and then divide the total length of the fence by the number of resulting sections.
2-6. Dig the holes.
Use a post-hole digger to dig holes at the locations you staked. The posts will need to be buried at least 33% as deep as they are tall (example: an 8' high fence needs a hole 2.5' deep), so your hole will need to be at least that depth plus a few extra inches.
The hole should be wide enough that there is room around the post when you put it in.
Because soil conditions vary, and the height of the fence, the type of fencing, and other factors must be considered in determining how deep the post should be, you will have to calculate the hole depth for yourself.
2-7. Place your posts.
Place 3-4" of gravel at the bottom of the hole. Place the post in the hole and get it into alignment. Check to make sure that the corners are still square, use a post leveler to make sure it is straight, and make sure it is sitting at the correct height.
2-8. Pour the concrete footing.
Carefully holding your post in place, pour in instant concrete until the hole is 2/3 full. Add water to the top and use a stirring stick to mix the cement. Prop the post into place (stabilize using temporary nailed boards if necessary) and allow the concrete to set following the manufacturer's instructions.
2-9. Fill with dirt.
Fill any remainder of the hole with dirt once the concrete has set.
2-10. Add a builder's or mason's line.
Pull a builder's line from one end post to the other, at an equal height above the ground, preferably at the top of the post (if your posts were placed correctly). This will help you keep the height of the fence the same along the way.
2-11. Add on your support boards.
Cut 2x4 rails (or horizontal support boards) to the appropriate length to reach between the centers of the posts. If you can, use a single rail for the entire length of the fence section. Rails should be no more than 24" apart, so most fences will have 2-3 rails. Attach the rails using decking screws.
2-12. Add your privacy boards.
With your support boards in place, you can attach your pickets (vertical boards, also called privacy boards). There are many different styles and ways of doing this, depending on how you want your fence to look. The most basic is a board on board fence, where the fence boards are nailed (using a nail gun, nailed at the support boards) with the distance of less than one board between them. Place the first board up and then use a level to “plumb” (vertical level) the board. Then, nail or screw the board in place. Use a spacer and then place the next board. Use the level periodically to check that it is “plumb.”
These boards are usually 1X6 rough sawn lumber but you can buy other pre-cut fencing boards as well.
If nailing the boards by hand, use 8d spiral shank galvanized nails.
2-13. Treat the boards.
Once you're done, you will want to treat the boards to increase the longevity of your fence. You can paint your fence, stain it, or simply apply a weather-proofing finish to keep your fence looking great for years to come. Enjoy!
This will usually either contain silicone solids, or linseed oil. If you plan on painting a finish paint, stick with an oil-based sealer, and use an oil-based polyurethane paint or exterior enamel for the finish paint.
Tips
CCA treated lumber has been removed from the market due to reports of adverse effects.[13]
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Trustworthy Source
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Normal ACQ treated lumber will do fine, but make sure to additionally treat the buried portions of your posts as noted above. Also, the wood species mentioned above are excellent at resisting rot, usually just as durable as treated pine or spruce. Most woods are also easily painted, but you should use an otherwise resistant wood and/or a wood that has been treated
If you are building your fence on the property line, discuss it with your neighbor prior to building, to determine if he has objections and to make sure you agree on property lines. A professional surveyor can help you with your property lines, if you have problems. You should also discuss this with your code inspector, because your city or county may require a property line affidavit.[14]
X
Research source
Always call all of the utility offices to get them to mark your yard for their lines, even if you don't have some utilities (cable, electricity, gas, phone, etc) or you may ruin someone else's day or, quite frankly, kill yourself and your neighbors.[15]
X
Research source
Warnings
Make sure you know where your property line is prior to constructing the fence.
Wear safety glasses and gloves when they are needed.
Digging post holes by hand in hard or rocky soil can be a challenge. Power hole "augers" are available at tool rental stores, but they can be dangerous.
Check in your jurisdiction for permit requirements prior to building your fence. Some homeowner's associations have guidelines or ordinances governing fence construction.
Locate your utility and/or sprinkler system lines prior to digging the fence post holes. You may have to call all the utility companies separately to come locate their lines, however some areas have a common number to call that works for all utilities.[16]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:16",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build a Wood Fence\\n1-1. Check on any local restrictions.\\nIt's important to check that your fence is not illegal before you build it! If there are any restrictions on fences in your neighborhood or in your city, then all your hard work can be torn down. Check with your local planning department and neighborhood association before you get too far into the process.\\n1-2. Apply for a permit.\\nMost cities require a building permit in order to place a fence. Get one to ensure that both you and your fence are safe! Many electrical, gas and sewer lines, as well as water mains are buried at the levels you will be digging to. When you apply for a permit, you should also call 811 to request that your local utility companies come out to the site and mark any areas where pipes and wires are located. This will help to ensure the safety of your project.\\n1-3. Choose your materials.\\nYou'll want to be sure that you're using wood that will last a long time, right? If you use the best woods and treat them well, a wood fence can last 20 years or more. But choose the wrong wood and your fence might only make it 5 years. Consult with your local lumberyard to find the best wood for your area, but treated woods are usually your best option.\\n1-4. Decide on a style.\\nThere are also lots of different styles of wood fences. Do some research before you start so that you don't end up with builder's remorse! There are picket, lattice, concave, convex, board on board, shadowbox, privacy, and many other styles with just as many variations within each style. Each style also has specifics of how the fence should be built and how the boards should be placed.\\nThe information in this article is general and can apply broadly to many fence styles, but you might want to find specifics on your fence style to compliment these instructions.\\n2. Constructing Your Fence\\n2-1. Find your property line.\\nDetermine where your property line is before you start so that you don't accidentally go over. The best advice is to hire a Registered Land Surveyor in your home state to mark the property line for you before you begin construction. Your city or town usually does not keep very detailed records of your property's boundary information. GIS (geographic information system) maps and Assessors maps are highly inaccurate when it comes to property boundaries.\\nYou can search for Property\\\\Survey Pins on your property. These are also located on the corners of a lot. Just because an old fence or other “assumed” property boundary was\\\\is in place that does not always mean that it is correct.\\n2-2. Decide on the height.\\nChoose a fence height before getting too far into the project. Six foot is normal for a privacy fence, a livestock fence four feet high is usually sufficient, and picket fences are often three feet high. Fence height is important in the early stages, as it determines things like post hole depth.\\nMost cities have a height ordinance, so be sure to check this before you choose your fence height.\\n2-3. Stake the corner locations.\\nPlace stakes at the corners roughly where you wish your fence to go.\\n2-4. Square the corners.\\nTie a string around the stakes and run the string between stakes. Use a square or square-level to make sure that the corners\\\" where our stakes are placed are squared (the two sides form a 90° angle).\\nYou can also square the corners by measuring the strings. Measure 3' on one side and 4' on the other. If the distance between the two marks (diagonally) is equal to 5', then the corner is square.\\n2-5. Stake the middle posts.\\nMeasure out lengths of 8' or less along the strings once you've square your corners and stake those locations to indicate the location for your support posts.\\nYou generally want to take the total distance and divide it by 8 but if you have a length of fence that is not divisible by 8, you'll need to break it down into smaller sections. For example, a 24' fence would need 2 middle posts to create the three 8' sections, but a 25' fence would need 3 middle posts at 6.25' for each section in order to look even and be structurally sound.\\nTo find the length and number for odd fence lengths, go up to the next number of posts and then divide the total length of the fence by the number of resulting sections.\\n2-6. Dig the holes.\\nUse a post-hole digger to dig holes at the locations you staked. The posts will need to be buried at least 33% as deep as they are tall (example: an 8' high fence needs a hole 2.5' deep), so your hole will need to be at least that depth plus a few extra inches.\\nThe hole should be wide enough that there is room around the post when you put it in.\\nBecause soil conditions vary, and the height of the fence, the type of fencing, and other factors must be considered in determining how deep the post should be, you will have to calculate the hole depth for yourself.\\n2-7. Place your posts.\\nPlace 3-4\\\" of gravel at the bottom of the hole. Place the post in the hole and get it into alignment. Check to make sure that the corners are still square, use a post leveler to make sure it is straight, and make sure it is sitting at the correct height.\\n2-8. Pour the concrete footing.\\nCarefully holding your post in place, pour in instant concrete until the hole is 2/3 full. Add water to the top and use a stirring stick to mix the cement. Prop the post into place (stabilize using temporary nailed boards if necessary) and allow the concrete to set following the manufacturer's instructions.\\n2-9. Fill with dirt.\\nFill any remainder of the hole with dirt once the concrete has set.\\n2-10. Add a builder's or mason's line.\\nPull a builder's line from one end post to the other, at an equal height above the ground, preferably at the top of the post (if your posts were placed correctly). This will help you keep the height of the fence the same along the way.\\n2-11. Add on your support boards.\\nCut 2x4 rails (or horizontal support boards) to the appropriate length to reach between the centers of the posts. If you can, use a single rail for the entire length of the fence section. Rails should be no more than 24\\\" apart, so most fences will have 2-3 rails. Attach the rails using decking screws.\\n2-12. Add your privacy boards.\\nWith your support boards in place, you can attach your pickets (vertical boards, also called privacy boards). There are many different styles and ways of doing this, depending on how you want your fence to look. The most basic is a board on board fence, where the fence boards are nailed (using a nail gun, nailed at the support boards) with the distance of less than one board between them. Place the first board up and then use a level to “plumb” (vertical level) the board. Then, nail or screw the board in place. Use a spacer and then place the next board. Use the level periodically to check that it is “plumb.”\\nThese boards are usually 1X6 rough sawn lumber but you can buy other pre-cut fencing boards as well.\\nIf nailing the boards by hand, use 8d spiral shank galvanized nails.\\n2-13. Treat the boards.\\nOnce you're done, you will want to treat the boards to increase the longevity of your fence. You can paint your fence, stain it, or simply apply a weather-proofing finish to keep your fence looking great for years to come. Enjoy!\\nThis will usually either contain silicone solids, or linseed oil. If you plan on painting a finish paint, stick with an oil-based sealer, and use an oil-based polyurethane paint or exterior enamel for the finish paint.\\nTips\\nCCA treated lumber has been removed from the market due to reports of adverse effects.[13]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nConsumer Products Safety Commission\\nIndependent U.S. government agency responsible for protecting consumers by developing safety standards and conducting product research\\nGo to source\\n\\n Normal ACQ treated lumber will do fine, but make sure to additionally treat the buried portions of your posts as noted above. Also, the wood species mentioned above are excellent at resisting rot, usually just as durable as treated pine or spruce. Most woods are also easily painted, but you should use an otherwise resistant wood and/or a wood that has been treated\\nIf you are building your fence on the property line, discuss it with your neighbor prior to building, to determine if he has objections and to make sure you agree on property lines. A professional surveyor can help you with your property lines, if you have problems. You should also discuss this with your code inspector, because your city or county may require a property line affidavit.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAlways call all of the utility offices to get them to mark your yard for their lines, even if you don't have some utilities (cable, electricity, gas, phone, etc) or you may ruin someone else's day or, quite frankly, kill yourself and your neighbors.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you know where your property line is prior to constructing the fence.\\nWear safety glasses and gloves when they are needed.\\nDigging post holes by hand in hard or rocky soil can be a challenge. Power hole \\\"augers\\\" are available at tool rental stores, but they can be dangerous.\\nCheck in your jurisdiction for permit requirements prior to building your fence. Some homeowner's associations have guidelines or ordinances governing fence construction.\\nLocate your utility and/or sprinkler system lines prior to digging the fence post holes. You may have to call all the utility companies separately to come locate their lines, however some areas have a common number to call that works for all utilities.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There's a certain satisfaction that comes from building things that you get to use every day and a fence is a great starting project. Easy to do even for a beginner, building a wood fence requires few tools or skills. Building your own can also, of course, save you some serious cash! Just get started with Step 1 below to build your own fence.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build a Wood Fence\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check on any local restrictions.\", \"描述\": \"It's important to check that your fence is not illegal before you build it! If there are any restrictions on fences in your neighborhood or in your city, then all your hard work can be torn down. Check with your local planning department and neighborhood association before you get too far into the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply for a permit.\", \"描述\": \"Most cities require a building permit in order to place a fence. Get one to ensure that both you and your fence are safe! Many electrical, gas and sewer lines, as well as water mains are buried at the levels you will be digging to. When you apply for a permit, you should also call 811 to request that your local utility companies come out to the site and mark any areas where pipes and wires are located. This will help to ensure the safety of your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to be sure that you're using wood that will last a long time, right? If you use the best woods and treat them well, a wood fence can last 20 years or more. But choose the wrong wood and your fence might only make it 5 years. Consult with your local lumberyard to find the best wood for your area, but treated woods are usually your best option.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide on a style.\", \"描述\": \"There are also lots of different styles of wood fences. Do some research before you start so that you don't end up with builder's remorse! There are picket, lattice, concave, convex, board on board, shadowbox, privacy, and many other styles with just as many variations within each style. Each style also has specifics of how the fence should be built and how the boards should be placed.\\nThe information in this article is general and can apply broadly to many fence styles, but you might want to find specifics on your fence style to compliment these instructions.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing Your Fence\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find your property line.\", \"描述\": \"Determine where your property line is before you start so that you don't accidentally go over. The best advice is to hire a Registered Land Surveyor in your home state to mark the property line for you before you begin construction. Your city or town usually does not keep very detailed records of your property's boundary information. GIS (geographic information system) maps and Assessors maps are highly inaccurate when it comes to property boundaries.\\nYou can search for Property\\\\Survey Pins on your property. These are also located on the corners of a lot. Just because an old fence or other “assumed” property boundary was\\\\is in place that does not always mean that it is correct.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on the height.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a fence height before getting too far into the project. Six foot is normal for a privacy fence, a livestock fence four feet high is usually sufficient, and picket fences are often three feet high. Fence height is important in the early stages, as it determines things like post hole depth.\\nMost cities have a height ordinance, so be sure to check this before you choose your fence height.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stake the corner locations.\", \"描述\": \"Place stakes at the corners roughly where you wish your fence to go.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Square the corners.\", \"描述\": \"Tie a string around the stakes and run the string between stakes. Use a square or square-level to make sure that the corners\\\" where our stakes are placed are squared (the two sides form a 90° angle).\\nYou can also square the corners by measuring the strings. Measure 3' on one side and 4' on the other. If the distance between the two marks (diagonally) is equal to 5', then the corner is square.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stake the middle posts.\", \"描述\": \"Measure out lengths of 8' or less along the strings once you've square your corners and stake those locations to indicate the location for your support posts.\\nYou generally want to take the total distance and divide it by 8 but if you have a length of fence that is not divisible by 8, you'll need to break it down into smaller sections. For example, a 24' fence would need 2 middle posts to create the three 8' sections, but a 25' fence would need 3 middle posts at 6.25' for each section in order to look even and be structurally sound.\\nTo find the length and number for odd fence lengths, go up to the next number of posts and then divide the total length of the fence by the number of resulting sections.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dig the holes.\", \"描述\": \"Use a post-hole digger to dig holes at the locations you staked. The posts will need to be buried at least 33% as deep as they are tall (example: an 8' high fence needs a hole 2.5' deep), so your hole will need to be at least that depth plus a few extra inches.\\nThe hole should be wide enough that there is room around the post when you put it in.\\nBecause soil conditions vary, and the height of the fence, the type of fencing, and other factors must be considered in determining how deep the post should be, you will have to calculate the hole depth for yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place your posts.\", \"描述\": \"Place 3-4\\\" of gravel at the bottom of the hole. Place the post in the hole and get it into alignment. Check to make sure that the corners are still square, use a post leveler to make sure it is straight, and make sure it is sitting at the correct height.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pour the concrete footing.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully holding your post in place, pour in instant concrete until the hole is 2/3 full. Add water to the top and use a stirring stick to mix the cement. Prop the post into place (stabilize using temporary nailed boards if necessary) and allow the concrete to set following the manufacturer's instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fill with dirt.\", \"描述\": \"Fill any remainder of the hole with dirt once the concrete has set.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add a builder's or mason's line.\", \"描述\": \"Pull a builder's line from one end post to the other, at an equal height above the ground, preferably at the top of the post (if your posts were placed correctly). This will help you keep the height of the fence the same along the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Add on your support boards.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2x4 rails (or horizontal support boards) to the appropriate length to reach between the centers of the posts. If you can, use a single rail for the entire length of the fence section. Rails should be no more than 24\\\" apart, so most fences will have 2-3 rails. Attach the rails using decking screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Add your privacy boards.\", \"描述\": \"With your support boards in place, you can attach your pickets (vertical boards, also called privacy boards). There are many different styles and ways of doing this, depending on how you want your fence to look. The most basic is a board on board fence, where the fence boards are nailed (using a nail gun, nailed at the support boards) with the distance of less than one board between them. Place the first board up and then use a level to “plumb” (vertical level) the board. Then, nail or screw the board in place. Use a spacer and then place the next board. Use the level periodically to check that it is “plumb.”\\nThese boards are usually 1X6 rough sawn lumber but you can buy other pre-cut fencing boards as well.\\nIf nailing the boards by hand, use 8d spiral shank galvanized nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Treat the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Once you're done, you will want to treat the boards to increase the longevity of your fence. You can paint your fence, stain it, or simply apply a weather-proofing finish to keep your fence looking great for years to come. Enjoy!\\nThis will usually either contain silicone solids, or linseed oil. If you plan on painting a finish paint, stick with an oil-based sealer, and use an oil-based polyurethane paint or exterior enamel for the finish paint.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"CCA treated lumber has been removed from the market due to reports of adverse effects.[13]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nConsumer Products Safety Commission\\nIndependent U.S. government agency responsible for protecting consumers by developing safety standards and conducting product research\\nGo to source\\n\\n Normal ACQ treated lumber will do fine, but make sure to additionally treat the buried portions of your posts as noted above. Also, the wood species mentioned above are excellent at resisting rot, usually just as durable as treated pine or spruce. Most woods are also easily painted, but you should use an otherwise resistant wood and/or a wood that has been treated\\n\", \"If you are building your fence on the property line, discuss it with your neighbor prior to building, to determine if he has objections and to make sure you agree on property lines. A professional surveyor can help you with your property lines, if you have problems. You should also discuss this with your code inspector, because your city or county may require a property line affidavit.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Always call all of the utility offices to get them to mark your yard for their lines, even if you don't have some utilities (cable, electricity, gas, phone, etc) or you may ruin someone else's day or, quite frankly, kill yourself and your neighbors.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you know where your property line is prior to constructing the fence.\\n\", \"Wear safety glasses and gloves when they are needed.\\n\", \"Digging post holes by hand in hard or rocky soil can be a challenge. Power hole \\\"augers\\\" are available at tool rental stores, but they can be dangerous.\\n\", \"Check in your jurisdiction for permit requirements prior to building your fence. Some homeowner's associations have guidelines or ordinances governing fence construction.\\n\", \"Locate your utility and/or sprinkler system lines prior to digging the fence post holes. You may have to call all the utility companies separately to come locate their lines, however some areas have a common number to call that works for all utilities.[16]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,627 |
How to Build a Wood Retaining Wall
|
1. Gathering Your Materials
1-1. Find a location with a steep slope affected by erosion.
These benefit the most from retaining walls. Signs of soil erosion include exposed roots, patches of dead land, landscape changes (more bugs or worms, more rocks, soil that is suddenly denser and harder), and clumps of grass floating in nearby water. Just avoid locations where water tends to ooze up or stand—these are not good choices as the water will rot your wall and ruin it rather quickly.
Select a location where the excavated soil will be roughly equal to the backfill material needed behind the wall.
1-2. Clear and rake the area where you want to build your wall.
Start by removing any garbage and rocks. Afterward, remove any plants by digging in a circle around the roots, taking care to cut through as many as possible. Once you've cut them, jam the shovel underneath the plant's roots and lever it up and out of the ground. After the area is clear, rake it smooth.
Continue raking the soil until it's level.
Destroy as many roots as you can to prevent them from regrowing.
1-3. Purchase your wood pieces from a home hardware store.
Determine how many 4 by 4 inch (10 cm × 10 cm) posts—spaced 3 feet (0.91 m) apart—you need for your retaining wall and purchase them from a local home hardware store. Afterward, purchase 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to extend between your posts. Either have the staff cut your wood to size or purchase larger pieces to cut them to size on your own.
Give yourself an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top of your post height to go in the ground.
If your retaining wall is going to be 40 feet (12 m) long, you need 14 posts—40 (length of the wall) divided by 3 (space between each post)—for your wall. If it's going to be 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, make sure your posts are 5 feet (1.5 m) tall with an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top.
In the previous example, if your wall is 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, you need to stack 10 pieces of 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards vertically—5 feet (1.5 m) divided by 6 inches (15 cm)—to create the height of the wall. Ask the staff to cut you 10 pieces 3 feet (0.91 m) long for every 2 posts.
1-4. Cut your wood posts to length if they aren't already.
If you didn’t get your wood pieces cut at the home hardware store, cut your posts to the size with a circular saw. Hold each piece of wood still with your non-dominant hand and guide the saw forward with your dominant hand. Apply downward pressure to each wood piece as you cut to keep it steady. After you're done, set your posts aside for later.
Let the shortest piece of your wood hang to prevent jamming.
2. Digging Your Holes
2-1. Mark your post hole locations on the ground with chalk.
Each post should be 3 feet (0.91 m) away from each other—start by marking the first post location with chalk at one end of the wall. Now, move in 3 foot (0.91 m) increments along the line until you reach the end.
Use a taut string and stakes or a snapped chalk line to help you create a straight line.
If you need to extend your wall with another post to create the final 3 feet (0.91 m) then do so.
Space your posts 16 to 18 inches (41 to 46 cm) apart for load-bearing walls, which are walls that support something aside from their own weight such as a roof.
2-2. Dig a 12 inch (30 cm) deep trench between your post locations.
Start by using a D-handle shovel to loosen the dirt along each side of the trench. Once it's loose enough, dig out the middle with a trench shovel. Continue loosening and digging into the soil with each of your shovels.
Call your local utility services number at least 3 to 4 days before digging to ensure it's legal and won't damage underground structures, such as power, sewer, water, or gas lines.
Consider renting heavy equipment to dig your trench.
Saw through large roots with a reciprocating saw or using the tip of your trench shovel.
Use a steel bar to loosen rocks.
2-3. Dig 18 inch (46 cm) deep holes
Thrust your shovel into the soil and jiggle it forward and backward and side to side. Once the soil is loosened, start digging down into the ground. Grip the middle of the shovel's handle with your non-dominant hand and the top of the handle with your dominant hand.
Use a steel bar to knock rocks loose.
Remove large sections of loose soil with a clamshell digger.
Saw through large roots by thrusting your shovel down into them or using a reciprocating saw.
3. Installing Your Posts and Wall
3-1. Fill the holes
Mix your cement and water in a wheelbarrow while following manufacturer's directions. Afterward, gently tilt the wheelbarrow forward and pour the cement into the holes.
Use a hand float the level the surface of the cement with the ground when you're done.
3-2. Insert the posts into the holes immediately.
After inserting the posts into the holes, press them down to make sure that their bottoms are flat against the bottom of the hole. Do this as quickly as possible and make sure that they're perfectly vertical. If you have to, hold them in place with your hands until they settle into a vertical position. Make sure that they remain in place after letting them go.
You can also place 2 by 4 inch (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on either side of the posts to hold them in place.
3-3. Allow the concrete to dry for 1 week.
Once your posts are securely settled into the concrete, give the concrete time to cure. By waiting for a week, you're ensuring that the posts will be sturdy enough to support the weight of the rest of the fence.
Read the directions on the package of concrete mix for specific curing instructions, as these can vary between brands.
3-4. Connect your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards between your posts.
Use carriage bolts and an electric drill to connect your boards to the outside of your posts. Take care to ensure that the leftmost and rightmost part of each board aligns with the vertical center line of each post they connect to.
If your boards are shorter than the length between your posts, cut them so that they sit in the middle of each post.
Place 16 penny nails or deck screws between each deck board to space them enough for expansion.
3-5. Fill the area behind your boards with soil until it reaches the top of the boards.
Use the soil you removed from the trench to fill the area behind the boards. If you need more, purchase some from a home and garden store. Be sure to pack the soil down firmly when you're done.
If you need to purchase additional soil, make sure it's a similar composition as the soil from your trench.
Tips
Drive stakes into the ground to mark off your retaining wall area.
Draw your wall to scale to determine what materials and lumber you will need.
Warnings
If you are using a heavy duty drill with extensions, avoid applying undue pressure as it can cause the bit to snap.
Always wear safety goggles and gloves to avoid injury.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering Your Materials\\n1-1. Find a location with a steep slope affected by erosion.\\nThese benefit the most from retaining walls. Signs of soil erosion include exposed roots, patches of dead land, landscape changes (more bugs or worms, more rocks, soil that is suddenly denser and harder), and clumps of grass floating in nearby water. Just avoid locations where water tends to ooze up or stand—these are not good choices as the water will rot your wall and ruin it rather quickly.\\nSelect a location where the excavated soil will be roughly equal to the backfill material needed behind the wall.\\n1-2. Clear and rake the area where you want to build your wall.\\nStart by removing any garbage and rocks. Afterward, remove any plants by digging in a circle around the roots, taking care to cut through as many as possible. Once you've cut them, jam the shovel underneath the plant's roots and lever it up and out of the ground. After the area is clear, rake it smooth.\\nContinue raking the soil until it's level.\\nDestroy as many roots as you can to prevent them from regrowing.\\n1-3. Purchase your wood pieces from a home hardware store.\\nDetermine how many 4 by 4 inch (10 cm × 10 cm) posts—spaced 3 feet (0.91 m) apart—you need for your retaining wall and purchase them from a local home hardware store. Afterward, purchase 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to extend between your posts. Either have the staff cut your wood to size or purchase larger pieces to cut them to size on your own.\\nGive yourself an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top of your post height to go in the ground.\\nIf your retaining wall is going to be 40 feet (12 m) long, you need 14 posts—40 (length of the wall) divided by 3 (space between each post)—for your wall. If it's going to be 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, make sure your posts are 5 feet (1.5 m) tall with an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top.\\nIn the previous example, if your wall is 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, you need to stack 10 pieces of 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards vertically—5 feet (1.5 m) divided by 6 inches (15 cm)—to create the height of the wall. Ask the staff to cut you 10 pieces 3 feet (0.91 m) long for every 2 posts.\\n1-4. Cut your wood posts to length if they aren't already.\\nIf you didn’t get your wood pieces cut at the home hardware store, cut your posts to the size with a circular saw. Hold each piece of wood still with your non-dominant hand and guide the saw forward with your dominant hand. Apply downward pressure to each wood piece as you cut to keep it steady. After you're done, set your posts aside for later.\\nLet the shortest piece of your wood hang to prevent jamming.\\n2. Digging Your Holes\\n2-1. Mark your post hole locations on the ground with chalk.\\nEach post should be 3 feet (0.91 m) away from each other—start by marking the first post location with chalk at one end of the wall. Now, move in 3 foot (0.91 m) increments along the line until you reach the end.\\nUse a taut string and stakes or a snapped chalk line to help you create a straight line.\\nIf you need to extend your wall with another post to create the final 3 feet (0.91 m) then do so.\\nSpace your posts 16 to 18 inches (41 to 46 cm) apart for load-bearing walls, which are walls that support something aside from their own weight such as a roof.\\n2-2. Dig a 12 inch (30 cm) deep trench between your post locations.\\nStart by using a D-handle shovel to loosen the dirt along each side of the trench. Once it's loose enough, dig out the middle with a trench shovel. Continue loosening and digging into the soil with each of your shovels.\\nCall your local utility services number at least 3 to 4 days before digging to ensure it's legal and won't damage underground structures, such as power, sewer, water, or gas lines.\\nConsider renting heavy equipment to dig your trench.\\nSaw through large roots with a reciprocating saw or using the tip of your trench shovel.\\nUse a steel bar to loosen rocks.\\n2-3. Dig 18 inch (46 cm) deep holes\\nThrust your shovel into the soil and jiggle it forward and backward and side to side. Once the soil is loosened, start digging down into the ground. Grip the middle of the shovel's handle with your non-dominant hand and the top of the handle with your dominant hand.\\nUse a steel bar to knock rocks loose.\\nRemove large sections of loose soil with a clamshell digger.\\nSaw through large roots by thrusting your shovel down into them or using a reciprocating saw.\\n3. Installing Your Posts and Wall\\n3-1. Fill the holes\\nMix your cement and water in a wheelbarrow while following manufacturer's directions. Afterward, gently tilt the wheelbarrow forward and pour the cement into the holes.\\nUse a hand float the level the surface of the cement with the ground when you're done.\\n3-2. Insert the posts into the holes immediately.\\nAfter inserting the posts into the holes, press them down to make sure that their bottoms are flat against the bottom of the hole. Do this as quickly as possible and make sure that they're perfectly vertical. If you have to, hold them in place with your hands until they settle into a vertical position. Make sure that they remain in place after letting them go.\\nYou can also place 2 by 4 inch (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on either side of the posts to hold them in place.\\n3-3. Allow the concrete to dry for 1 week.\\nOnce your posts are securely settled into the concrete, give the concrete time to cure. By waiting for a week, you're ensuring that the posts will be sturdy enough to support the weight of the rest of the fence.\\nRead the directions on the package of concrete mix for specific curing instructions, as these can vary between brands.\\n3-4. Connect your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards between your posts.\\nUse carriage bolts and an electric drill to connect your boards to the outside of your posts. Take care to ensure that the leftmost and rightmost part of each board aligns with the vertical center line of each post they connect to.\\nIf your boards are shorter than the length between your posts, cut them so that they sit in the middle of each post.\\nPlace 16 penny nails or deck screws between each deck board to space them enough for expansion.\\n3-5. Fill the area behind your boards with soil until it reaches the top of the boards.\\nUse the soil you removed from the trench to fill the area behind the boards. If you need more, purchase some from a home and garden store. Be sure to pack the soil down firmly when you're done.\\nIf you need to purchase additional soil, make sure it's a similar composition as the soil from your trench.\\nTips\\nDrive stakes into the ground to mark off your retaining wall area.\\nDraw your wall to scale to determine what materials and lumber you will need.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are using a heavy duty drill with extensions, avoid applying undue pressure as it can cause the bit to snap.\\nAlways wear safety goggles and gloves to avoid injury.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a wood retaining wall is a great way to keep your topsoil from washing away down a slope. Not only that, you can turn it into a terraced garden for planting anything from vegetables and flowers to small shrubs and trees. Although a wood retaining wall is relatively simple to build and doesn't require professional skills, you will need some knowledge of basic tools and a bit of perseverance.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering Your Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a location with a steep slope affected by erosion.\", \"描述\": \"These benefit the most from retaining walls. Signs of soil erosion include exposed roots, patches of dead land, landscape changes (more bugs or worms, more rocks, soil that is suddenly denser and harder), and clumps of grass floating in nearby water. Just avoid locations where water tends to ooze up or stand—these are not good choices as the water will rot your wall and ruin it rather quickly.\\nSelect a location where the excavated soil will be roughly equal to the backfill material needed behind the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear and rake the area where you want to build your wall.\", \"描述\": \"Start by removing any garbage and rocks. Afterward, remove any plants by digging in a circle around the roots, taking care to cut through as many as possible. Once you've cut them, jam the shovel underneath the plant's roots and lever it up and out of the ground. After the area is clear, rake it smooth.\\nContinue raking the soil until it's level.\\nDestroy as many roots as you can to prevent them from regrowing.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase your wood pieces from a home hardware store.\", \"描述\": \"Determine how many 4 by 4 inch (10 cm × 10 cm) posts—spaced 3 feet (0.91 m) apart—you need for your retaining wall and purchase them from a local home hardware store. Afterward, purchase 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards to extend between your posts. Either have the staff cut your wood to size or purchase larger pieces to cut them to size on your own.\\nGive yourself an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top of your post height to go in the ground.\\nIf your retaining wall is going to be 40 feet (12 m) long, you need 14 posts—40 (length of the wall) divided by 3 (space between each post)—for your wall. If it's going to be 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, make sure your posts are 5 feet (1.5 m) tall with an additional 18 inches (46 cm) on top.\\nIn the previous example, if your wall is 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, you need to stack 10 pieces of 2 by 6 inch (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards vertically—5 feet (1.5 m) divided by 6 inches (15 cm)—to create the height of the wall. Ask the staff to cut you 10 pieces 3 feet (0.91 m) long for every 2 posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood posts to length if they aren't already.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn’t get your wood pieces cut at the home hardware store, cut your posts to the size with a circular saw. Hold each piece of wood still with your non-dominant hand and guide the saw forward with your dominant hand. Apply downward pressure to each wood piece as you cut to keep it steady. After you're done, set your posts aside for later.\\nLet the shortest piece of your wood hang to prevent jamming.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Digging Your Holes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark your post hole locations on the ground with chalk.\", \"描述\": \"Each post should be 3 feet (0.91 m) away from each other—start by marking the first post location with chalk at one end of the wall. Now, move in 3 foot (0.91 m) increments along the line until you reach the end.\\nUse a taut string and stakes or a snapped chalk line to help you create a straight line.\\nIf you need to extend your wall with another post to create the final 3 feet (0.91 m) then do so.\\nSpace your posts 16 to 18 inches (41 to 46 cm) apart for load-bearing walls, which are walls that support something aside from their own weight such as a roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a 12 inch (30 cm) deep trench between your post locations.\", \"描述\": \"Start by using a D-handle shovel to loosen the dirt along each side of the trench. Once it's loose enough, dig out the middle with a trench shovel. Continue loosening and digging into the soil with each of your shovels.\\nCall your local utility services number at least 3 to 4 days before digging to ensure it's legal and won't damage underground structures, such as power, sewer, water, or gas lines.\\nConsider renting heavy equipment to dig your trench.\\nSaw through large roots with a reciprocating saw or using the tip of your trench shovel.\\nUse a steel bar to loosen rocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig 18 inch (46 cm) deep holes\", \"描述\": \"Thrust your shovel into the soil and jiggle it forward and backward and side to side. Once the soil is loosened, start digging down into the ground. Grip the middle of the shovel's handle with your non-dominant hand and the top of the handle with your dominant hand.\\nUse a steel bar to knock rocks loose.\\nRemove large sections of loose soil with a clamshell digger.\\nSaw through large roots by thrusting your shovel down into them or using a reciprocating saw.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing Your Posts and Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill the holes\", \"描述\": \"Mix your cement and water in a wheelbarrow while following manufacturer's directions. Afterward, gently tilt the wheelbarrow forward and pour the cement into the holes.\\nUse a hand float the level the surface of the cement with the ground when you're done.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert the posts into the holes immediately.\", \"描述\": \"After inserting the posts into the holes, press them down to make sure that their bottoms are flat against the bottom of the hole. Do this as quickly as possible and make sure that they're perfectly vertical. If you have to, hold them in place with your hands until they settle into a vertical position. Make sure that they remain in place after letting them go.\\nYou can also place 2 by 4 inch (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on either side of the posts to hold them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Allow the concrete to dry for 1 week.\", \"描述\": \"Once your posts are securely settled into the concrete, give the concrete time to cure. By waiting for a week, you're ensuring that the posts will be sturdy enough to support the weight of the rest of the fence.\\nRead the directions on the package of concrete mix for specific curing instructions, as these can vary between brands.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect your 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) boards between your posts.\", \"描述\": \"Use carriage bolts and an electric drill to connect your boards to the outside of your posts. Take care to ensure that the leftmost and rightmost part of each board aligns with the vertical center line of each post they connect to.\\nIf your boards are shorter than the length between your posts, cut them so that they sit in the middle of each post.\\nPlace 16 penny nails or deck screws between each deck board to space them enough for expansion.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill the area behind your boards with soil until it reaches the top of the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Use the soil you removed from the trench to fill the area behind the boards. If you need more, purchase some from a home and garden store. Be sure to pack the soil down firmly when you're done.\\nIf you need to purchase additional soil, make sure it's a similar composition as the soil from your trench.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Drive stakes into the ground to mark off your retaining wall area.\\n\", \"Draw your wall to scale to determine what materials and lumber you will need.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are using a heavy duty drill with extensions, avoid applying undue pressure as it can cause the bit to snap.\\n\", \"Always wear safety goggles and gloves to avoid injury.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,628 |
How to Build a Wooden Bed Frame
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1. Standard Queen Bed
1-1. Purchase all the gear you need.
See the "Things You'll Need" list below for specific details. The goal is to build a frame that will fit a queen-size mattress (60" wide x 80" long). Beyond that, you'll need to visit your local home improvement warehouse to acquire three basic things:
Bed rail hangers
Wood
Wood screws
1-2. Mount the bed rail hangers.
This hardware is essential in forming a rigid connection between all the bed rails in the frame. Secure the bed rail hangers to the end of the side-rail and head post. Double check that each placement is consistent. Repeat the process for all corners.
These hangers can sometimes be hard to find in hardware stores. If so, check online retailers.
Bed rail hangers are usually sold 4 sets to a package.
In the place of bed rail hangers, you can use 8 long lag bolts. When tightened, the lag bolts make the bed very solid. Lag bolts are also much easier to find than bed rail hangers.
1-3. Attach the support rails.
Screw the support rail to each side rail. Make sure to space the screws about 12" (30.5 cm) apart. This provides maximum weight support.
1-4. Create the support blocks.
Cut a groove into the support block and support beam, as shown. This groove should be a centered 1.5"x 3.5" slot, with the wider measurement following the wider part of the block.
1-5. Attach the support blocks.
Attach each support block to the center of the head rail and foot rail with screws as shown in the image.
1-6. Connect the rails.
Connect each rail to the post using the bedrail hangers.
1-7. Add the support beams.
Insert the support beam between the two support blocks.
1-8. Insert your plywood mattress surface.
Rest the plywood on the support rails and support beam. It should fit into the inner part of the bed frame. Once this is done, the mattress can be placed in the frame.
1-9. Finished.
Enjoy your new bed!
2. Platform Bed
2-1. Gather your materials and supplies.
You'll need a circular saw, a number of basic L brackets, 3" decking screws, some MDF or plywood, and then several cuts of lumber. For lumber, you'll need:
Two pieces of 85" 2x4
Five pieces of 67" 2x4
Eight pieces of 19 3/8 2x4
Two pieces of 75" 2x12
Four pieces of 57" 2x12
2-2. Create the base frame.
Using standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 75" 2x12s and two of the 57" 2x12s into a 60"x75" box.
If you don't want the screw heads visible, cover them with a patch of latex filler so they're hidden.
2-3. Add the base bracers.
Slide in the remaining 57" 2x12s, space the box into thirds, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place. Set aside the completed base.
2-4. Create the platform frame.
Using standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 85" 2x4s and two of the 67" 2x4s into a 70"x85" box.
2-5. Add the platform bracers.
Slide in the remaining 67" 2x4s, space the box into 4 sections, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place.
2-6. Add the platform supports.
You will now add the 19 3/8" 2x4s between the bracers, two to a section. Space them evenly but stagger them, so that the leftmost and second right most sections have the supports at the same level and the rightmost and second leftmost have the supports at the same level. Attach these with decking screws as well.
2-7. Reinforce the corners and joints.
Reinforce the inside corners of both the base and platform with L brackets. You can also add L brackets around some of the other interior joints as well for added strength.
2-8. Add the plywood surface.
Trace and cut plywood to fit the surface of the platform. This will likely take two pieces of plywood to cover. Attach the plywood with decking screws to the inside bracers, such that the screws won't show on the exposed platform.
2-9. Paint the bed.
Sand the wood and then paint or stain the bed to the desired color.
2-10. Done!
Arrange the platform on top of the base in the final location. You can attach the platform to the base with a few strategically placed L brackets if you want to. Just top with your mattress of full or queen size mattress!
3. Twin Size Captain's Bed
3-1. Get your materials.
You'll need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (the 2x4 square size), several feet of velcro, a saw, decking screws, 24 basic L brackets with mounting screws, and lumber in the following cuts:
Four 38" pieces of 2x10
Six 28" pieces of 2x10
Four 16 & 3/4" pieces of 1x10
3-2. Create the end boxes.
You'll be using the lumber to build two end shelves which share the weight of the bed with the Expedit shelves. The boxes are created by Connecting two 38" sections of 2x10 lumber to two 28" sections of 2x10 lumber into a 38"x31" box. Secure the pieces together using decking screws, 3 for each connection. Secure each corner with an L bracket at the center.
3-3. Add the center brace.
Another piece of 28" 2x10 is then centered and attached in the same way to create two sections in each box. Secure the center brace with an L bracket on each side at both the top and bottom.
3-4. Add in shelves if desired.
If you want to have shelves, you can add these in easily with some 1x10 lumber cut to 16 & 3/4". Adjust the shelf to the desired height and then secure the bottom with L brackets, two to a side.
3-5. Add a backing to the end shelves.
Trace the shelves onto plywood and cut out the backing with a jigsaw. Nail it into place by hand or using a pneumatic nail gun.
3-6. Add feet to the end shelves.
You will probably want to add felt feet to the bottom of these shelves to keep them from scratching floors or moving around. These are easily bought from many different types of stores.
3-7. Paint all four bookcases to match.
With the shelves done, you will want to paint them and the Expedit shelves to be the same color. Use spray paint which is graded to go on laminate.
3-8. Attach the plywood to the end shelves.
Cut a piece of plywood to be 38"x75". With both shelves facing outward and the Expedit shelves dry fit between them, nail the plywood into place by driving two nails through the plywood and into the top of the sides of the end shelves.
You can glue on a non-slip mat, like the ones which go under carpets, if you want to.
3-9. Adjust the Expedit shelves as necessary.
Adjust the Expedit shelves so that they are flush with the sides of the end shelves.
3-10. Add finishing touches.
Ikea makes several useful inserts for Expedit shelves. You can add baskets, pull out drawers, or just basic doors, and all come in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed!
This bed should be used by a child only, as it cannot support extreme weights.
Tips
You can apply glue to the joints and nail with finish nails. This will make the joints stronger. Just make sure you remove any excess glue (see glue package for removal instructions) and sand lightly before attempting to stain the wood afterward.[6]
X
Research source
Sand any rough edges to make the bed frame smooth.
Drill pilot holes before screwing any pieces together.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Standard Queen Bed\\n1-1. Purchase all the gear you need.\\nSee the \\\"Things You'll Need\\\" list below for specific details. The goal is to build a frame that will fit a queen-size mattress (60\\\" wide x 80\\\" long). Beyond that, you'll need to visit your local home improvement warehouse to acquire three basic things:\\nBed rail hangers\\nWood\\nWood screws\\n1-2. Mount the bed rail hangers.\\nThis hardware is essential in forming a rigid connection between all the bed rails in the frame. Secure the bed rail hangers to the end of the side-rail and head post. Double check that each placement is consistent. Repeat the process for all corners.\\nThese hangers can sometimes be hard to find in hardware stores. If so, check online retailers.\\nBed rail hangers are usually sold 4 sets to a package.\\nIn the place of bed rail hangers, you can use 8 long lag bolts. When tightened, the lag bolts make the bed very solid. Lag bolts are also much easier to find than bed rail hangers.\\n1-3. Attach the support rails.\\nScrew the support rail to each side rail. Make sure to space the screws about 12\\\" (30.5 cm) apart. This provides maximum weight support.\\n1-4. Create the support blocks.\\nCut a groove into the support block and support beam, as shown. This groove should be a centered 1.5\\\"x 3.5\\\" slot, with the wider measurement following the wider part of the block.\\n1-5. Attach the support blocks.\\nAttach each support block to the center of the head rail and foot rail with screws as shown in the image.\\n1-6. Connect the rails.\\nConnect each rail to the post using the bedrail hangers.\\n1-7. Add the support beams.\\nInsert the support beam between the two support blocks.\\n1-8. Insert your plywood mattress surface.\\nRest the plywood on the support rails and support beam. It should fit into the inner part of the bed frame. Once this is done, the mattress can be placed in the frame.\\n1-9. Finished.\\nEnjoy your new bed!\\n2. Platform Bed\\n2-1. Gather your materials and supplies.\\nYou'll need a circular saw, a number of basic L brackets, 3\\\" decking screws, some MDF or plywood, and then several cuts of lumber. For lumber, you'll need:\\nTwo pieces of 85\\\" 2x4\\nFive pieces of 67\\\" 2x4\\nEight pieces of 19 3/8 2x4\\nTwo pieces of 75\\\" 2x12\\nFour pieces of 57\\\" 2x12\\n2-2. Create the base frame.\\nUsing standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 75\\\" 2x12s and two of the 57\\\" 2x12s into a 60\\\"x75\\\" box.\\nIf you don't want the screw heads visible, cover them with a patch of latex filler so they're hidden.\\n2-3. Add the base bracers.\\nSlide in the remaining 57\\\" 2x12s, space the box into thirds, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place. Set aside the completed base.\\n2-4. Create the platform frame.\\nUsing standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 85\\\" 2x4s and two of the 67\\\" 2x4s into a 70\\\"x85\\\" box.\\n2-5. Add the platform bracers.\\nSlide in the remaining 67\\\" 2x4s, space the box into 4 sections, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place.\\n2-6. Add the platform supports.\\nYou will now add the 19 3/8\\\" 2x4s between the bracers, two to a section. Space them evenly but stagger them, so that the leftmost and second right most sections have the supports at the same level and the rightmost and second leftmost have the supports at the same level. Attach these with decking screws as well.\\n2-7. Reinforce the corners and joints.\\nReinforce the inside corners of both the base and platform with L brackets. You can also add L brackets around some of the other interior joints as well for added strength.\\n2-8. Add the plywood surface.\\nTrace and cut plywood to fit the surface of the platform. This will likely take two pieces of plywood to cover. Attach the plywood with decking screws to the inside bracers, such that the screws won't show on the exposed platform.\\n2-9. Paint the bed.\\nSand the wood and then paint or stain the bed to the desired color.\\n2-10. Done!\\nArrange the platform on top of the base in the final location. You can attach the platform to the base with a few strategically placed L brackets if you want to. Just top with your mattress of full or queen size mattress!\\n3. Twin Size Captain's Bed\\n3-1. Get your materials.\\nYou'll need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (the 2x4 square size), several feet of velcro, a saw, decking screws, 24 basic L brackets with mounting screws, and lumber in the following cuts:\\nFour 38\\\" pieces of 2x10\\nSix 28\\\" pieces of 2x10\\nFour 16 & 3/4\\\" pieces of 1x10\\n3-2. Create the end boxes.\\nYou'll be using the lumber to build two end shelves which share the weight of the bed with the Expedit shelves. The boxes are created by Connecting two 38\\\" sections of 2x10 lumber to two 28\\\" sections of 2x10 lumber into a 38\\\"x31\\\" box. Secure the pieces together using decking screws, 3 for each connection. Secure each corner with an L bracket at the center.\\n3-3. Add the center brace.\\nAnother piece of 28\\\" 2x10 is then centered and attached in the same way to create two sections in each box. Secure the center brace with an L bracket on each side at both the top and bottom.\\n3-4. Add in shelves if desired.\\nIf you want to have shelves, you can add these in easily with some 1x10 lumber cut to 16 & 3/4\\\". Adjust the shelf to the desired height and then secure the bottom with L brackets, two to a side.\\n3-5. Add a backing to the end shelves.\\nTrace the shelves onto plywood and cut out the backing with a jigsaw. Nail it into place by hand or using a pneumatic nail gun.\\n3-6. Add feet to the end shelves.\\nYou will probably want to add felt feet to the bottom of these shelves to keep them from scratching floors or moving around. These are easily bought from many different types of stores.\\n3-7. Paint all four bookcases to match.\\nWith the shelves done, you will want to paint them and the Expedit shelves to be the same color. Use spray paint which is graded to go on laminate.\\n3-8. Attach the plywood to the end shelves.\\nCut a piece of plywood to be 38\\\"x75\\\". With both shelves facing outward and the Expedit shelves dry fit between them, nail the plywood into place by driving two nails through the plywood and into the top of the sides of the end shelves.\\nYou can glue on a non-slip mat, like the ones which go under carpets, if you want to.\\n3-9. Adjust the Expedit shelves as necessary.\\nAdjust the Expedit shelves so that they are flush with the sides of the end shelves.\\n3-10. Add finishing touches.\\nIkea makes several useful inserts for Expedit shelves. You can add baskets, pull out drawers, or just basic doors, and all come in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed!\\nThis bed should be used by a child only, as it cannot support extreme weights.\\nTips\\nYou can apply glue to the joints and nail with finish nails. This will make the joints stronger. Just make sure you remove any excess glue (see glue package for removal instructions) and sand lightly before attempting to stain the wood afterward.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nSand any rough edges to make the bed frame smooth.\\nDrill pilot holes before screwing any pieces together.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you have a rickety metal bed frame? Or maybe you keep your mattress on the floor with no frame at all. Have you considered getting a wooden bed frame? It can add wonderful appeal to your room, and it will get rid of those annoying squeaky metal parts. But keep in mind, they aren't cheap. Here's a simple plan to build your own wooden bed frame that can be modified to any size (or height) you want.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Standard Queen Bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase all the gear you need.\", \"描述\": \"See the \\\"Things You'll Need\\\" list below for specific details. The goal is to build a frame that will fit a queen-size mattress (60\\\" wide x 80\\\" long). Beyond that, you'll need to visit your local home improvement warehouse to acquire three basic things:\\nBed rail hangers\\nWood\\nWood screws\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount the bed rail hangers.\", \"描述\": \"This hardware is essential in forming a rigid connection between all the bed rails in the frame. Secure the bed rail hangers to the end of the side-rail and head post. Double check that each placement is consistent. Repeat the process for all corners.\\nThese hangers can sometimes be hard to find in hardware stores. If so, check online retailers.\\nBed rail hangers are usually sold 4 sets to a package.\\nIn the place of bed rail hangers, you can use 8 long lag bolts. When tightened, the lag bolts make the bed very solid. Lag bolts are also much easier to find than bed rail hangers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the support rails.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the support rail to each side rail. Make sure to space the screws about 12\\\" (30.5 cm) apart. This provides maximum weight support.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create the support blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a groove into the support block and support beam, as shown. This groove should be a centered 1.5\\\"x 3.5\\\" slot, with the wider measurement following the wider part of the block.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the support blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Attach each support block to the center of the head rail and foot rail with screws as shown in the image.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the rails.\", \"描述\": \"Connect each rail to the post using the bedrail hangers.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add the support beams.\", \"描述\": \"Insert the support beam between the two support blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Insert your plywood mattress surface.\", \"描述\": \"Rest the plywood on the support rails and support beam. It should fit into the inner part of the bed frame. Once this is done, the mattress can be placed in the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"Enjoy your new bed!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Platform Bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials and supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need a circular saw, a number of basic L brackets, 3\\\" decking screws, some MDF or plywood, and then several cuts of lumber. For lumber, you'll need:\\nTwo pieces of 85\\\" 2x4\\nFive pieces of 67\\\" 2x4\\nEight pieces of 19 3/8 2x4\\nTwo pieces of 75\\\" 2x12\\nFour pieces of 57\\\" 2x12\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the base frame.\", \"描述\": \"Using standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 75\\\" 2x12s and two of the 57\\\" 2x12s into a 60\\\"x75\\\" box.\\nIf you don't want the screw heads visible, cover them with a patch of latex filler so they're hidden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the base bracers.\", \"描述\": \"Slide in the remaining 57\\\" 2x12s, space the box into thirds, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place. Set aside the completed base.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create the platform frame.\", \"描述\": \"Using standard butt joints, use the decking screws to join together the 85\\\" 2x4s and two of the 67\\\" 2x4s into a 70\\\"x85\\\" box.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add the platform bracers.\", \"描述\": \"Slide in the remaining 67\\\" 2x4s, space the box into 4 sections, and then use the decking screws to screw the bracers into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add the platform supports.\", \"描述\": \"You will now add the 19 3/8\\\" 2x4s between the bracers, two to a section. Space them evenly but stagger them, so that the leftmost and second right most sections have the supports at the same level and the rightmost and second leftmost have the supports at the same level. Attach these with decking screws as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Reinforce the corners and joints.\", \"描述\": \"Reinforce the inside corners of both the base and platform with L brackets. You can also add L brackets around some of the other interior joints as well for added strength.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add the plywood surface.\", \"描述\": \"Trace and cut plywood to fit the surface of the platform. This will likely take two pieces of plywood to cover. Attach the plywood with decking screws to the inside bracers, such that the screws won't show on the exposed platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Paint the bed.\", \"描述\": \"Sand the wood and then paint or stain the bed to the desired color.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Done!\", \"描述\": \"Arrange the platform on top of the base in the final location. You can attach the platform to the base with a few strategically placed L brackets if you want to. Just top with your mattress of full or queen size mattress!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Twin Size Captain's Bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get your materials.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need two Ikea Expedit bookshelves (the 2x4 square size), several feet of velcro, a saw, decking screws, 24 basic L brackets with mounting screws, and lumber in the following cuts:\\nFour 38\\\" pieces of 2x10\\nSix 28\\\" pieces of 2x10\\nFour 16 & 3/4\\\" pieces of 1x10\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the end boxes.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be using the lumber to build two end shelves which share the weight of the bed with the Expedit shelves. The boxes are created by Connecting two 38\\\" sections of 2x10 lumber to two 28\\\" sections of 2x10 lumber into a 38\\\"x31\\\" box. Secure the pieces together using decking screws, 3 for each connection. Secure each corner with an L bracket at the center.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the center brace.\", \"描述\": \"Another piece of 28\\\" 2x10 is then centered and attached in the same way to create two sections in each box. Secure the center brace with an L bracket on each side at both the top and bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add in shelves if desired.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to have shelves, you can add these in easily with some 1x10 lumber cut to 16 & 3/4\\\". Adjust the shelf to the desired height and then secure the bottom with L brackets, two to a side.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a backing to the end shelves.\", \"描述\": \"Trace the shelves onto plywood and cut out the backing with a jigsaw. Nail it into place by hand or using a pneumatic nail gun.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add feet to the end shelves.\", \"描述\": \"You will probably want to add felt feet to the bottom of these shelves to keep them from scratching floors or moving around. These are easily bought from many different types of stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paint all four bookcases to match.\", \"描述\": \"With the shelves done, you will want to paint them and the Expedit shelves to be the same color. Use spray paint which is graded to go on laminate.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood to the end shelves.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of plywood to be 38\\\"x75\\\". With both shelves facing outward and the Expedit shelves dry fit between them, nail the plywood into place by driving two nails through the plywood and into the top of the sides of the end shelves.\\nYou can glue on a non-slip mat, like the ones which go under carpets, if you want to.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Adjust the Expedit shelves as necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Adjust the Expedit shelves so that they are flush with the sides of the end shelves.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add finishing touches.\", \"描述\": \"Ikea makes several useful inserts for Expedit shelves. You can add baskets, pull out drawers, or just basic doors, and all come in a variety of colors. Enjoy your new bed!\\nThis bed should be used by a child only, as it cannot support extreme weights.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can apply glue to the joints and nail with finish nails. This will make the joints stronger. Just make sure you remove any excess glue (see glue package for removal instructions) and sand lightly before attempting to stain the wood afterward.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Sand any rough edges to make the bed frame smooth.\\n\", \"Drill pilot holes before screwing any pieces together.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,629 |
How to Build a Wooden Gate
|
1. Getting Started
1-1. Get the tools and materials necessary to the job.
Aside from a fence in need of a gate, you'll need a few common hand-held carpentry tools to get started making your gate. It's likely you'll need:
Screwdriver
Power drill
Compound miter saw
Carpenter's level
Jigsaw, for cutting a decorative profile
3-inch stainless steel coated deck screws, for putting the box frame together
1 ¼ or 1 ⅝ stainless steel or coated deck screws, for planking
Hinges
1-2. Make sure the fence posts can support a gate if you already have a fence.
The size of the gate should not be greater than 4' (1.22 m) in width. If it is wider, you must make and hang two gates, which will meet in the middle.
Measure the entry at the top and bottom as they can easily be different. Build the gate to be square based on the narrower measure. Take diagonal measurements to check for squareness.
1-3. Anchor and plumb the fence posts, if necessary.
You need to make sure that hanging the gate won't pull the posts to one side. The way you anchor the post will depend on the size of the fence, but in general, you need to make sure the post doesn't wiggle with weight. If it can be easily moved, the gate will sag. You should also check and see that the post is level, straight up and down.
Ideally, a 4-foot (1.22 m) tall gate needs a 5" x 5" (12.7cm x 12.7 cm) redwood post. A 6-foot (1.83 m) tall gate requires a 6" x 6" (15.3 cm x 15.3 m) post. Post length should be at least 1/3rd longer than the planned height of gate. The hole that the post will occupy should be at least 6” deeper than post will be buried. Post should be buried at least 1/3 but preferably 1/2 of its length and hole should be 3 x as wide as post. Concrete is best for filling hole but gravel or tightly packed earth may have to do. It is best to seal the end of post being buried using old motor oil, water proofing agent, bronzing (lightly charring post) or exterior paint. Giving buried end of post some form of water proofing protection will greatly extend life of post. Post should also be (proved) before using. Proving is allowing post to lay exposed to elements for at least 4 or more days to assure that it won't warp or twist (the longer the better, 2 weeks is best). This is especially important for 'treated' posts that have been bundled (unbundle, separate posts and allow to dry and wait to see if they will remain straight -proving). One doesn't want to come back and find that a post has warped after a week or so.
1-4. Measure the frame.
The frame for a basic wooden fence gate should be a simple box with 4 sides, usually somewhat smaller than the gate opening. If you've got a 3x5 opening in the fence, build a 3x4 box out of a weather resistant wood. The box should be about an inch less wide than the rough opening to account for hinges and the thickness of gate as it swings.
Typically, you'll want to use the same variety of wood used on the fence. If you want a different color, redwood is sometimes used for large gates. Whatever you choose to use, buy more lumber than you'll need to make sure you've got enough for the job.
2. Building the Gate
2-1. Cut 2 x 4 (5.
. Start the gate by cutting the top and bottom pieces to the same width/length as you planned for, slightly smaller than the opening in the fence. Cut the upright side planks about 3 inches shorter than the height of the gate.
2-2. Screw in the top and bottom planks.
Drill a pilot hole for the screws before putting them in so that they do not split the wood. Fasten with deck screws, pre-drilling to keep the wood from splitting. Measure from the top bend to the opposite bottom corner. Both sides should measure the same.
Typically, as you start assembling, the gate framing, it's good to lay it out on a flat surface, such as a patio or driveway. Attach the top and bottom rails to the side rails, making sure it is square.
2-3. Cut an angled cross-brace and attach it to the top and bottom rails.
This helps maintain strength and rigidity. Connect these to the frame boards that match the rest of the fence by using deck screws, pre-drilling as before.
Make your diagonal cut with a mitre saw. Place the diagonal onto the box and trance with a pencil where the angles go.
Place the cross-brace at a 45 degree angle extending from the bottom corner of the gate to the opposite corner of the top of the gate.
2-4. Cut and install the planks.
Once you've designed the frame and built it, all you need to do now is attach flat planks evenly over the front of the frame to finish your basic wooden gate. Measure planks from the top to the bottom of the frame and cut them accordingly. Leave at least ⅛ inch between the planks for weather allowances.
Cut planks using a table saw and secure them using deck screws, drilling pilot holes to keep your planks nice and clean.
3. Finishing the Gate
3-1. Design the top of the gate.
Most people like to take a little time to design the top of the gate and add a little decoration to it, using a jigsaw. If you don't want to take the time to, it's not necessary, but it's a good way to make the fence look nice. Generally, a beveled edge, an imprint of your last name, or other little decorative markers are popular.
To start, draw an arc across the top of the fence using a string and a pencil, filling it with decorative curves according to your taste. If you're a woodworker, feel free to get fancy with it. Use the jig to cut along your pattern.
3-2. Install hinges and attach the gate to the fence.
Put the gate into place, supporting it on the bottom with a 2x4 (1.5 inch off ground). Use a pencil to mark where the hinge should go on the post, and then put the gate down. Predrill where the screws will go. Prop up the gate and screw the hinges into the gate and attach the hinges to the post.
3-3. Install a gravity latch.
Most easy-to-use fences will use a gravity latch, which you can install after you've hung the fence. Mark where the screws will go with a pencil, then drill pilot holes and install the latch. Get the fit first before you put any finish on the gate.
3-4. Seal the wood.
Try to hit every exposed surface with your sealer, using a paintbrush or garden sprayer to apply. Most home retailers sell pads that are basically a sponge on a stick that you can use to spread it around, if necessary.
Try to cover the whole surface evenly, making sure you hit the bottoms of the planks, which tend to absorb more water than the face grains. This is the area most likely to rot or become discolored. Let dry for a couple hours in dry climates or a day in more humid climates.
3-5. Use your gate.
After you finish sealing the wood and have given it plenty of time to dry, your gate is ready to use! Open and close it to test it out.
Tips
Spring or spring-loaded hinges ensure that the gate fence stays shut.
If the gate seems weak, then you can add cross bracing to it for more support.
Measure twice, cut once on all cuts! Remember, you can always cut things shorter but you can't undo any cut once you've done it.
Warnings
Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when working with power tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Started\\n1-1. Get the tools and materials necessary to the job.\\nAside from a fence in need of a gate, you'll need a few common hand-held carpentry tools to get started making your gate. It's likely you'll need:\\nScrewdriver\\nPower drill\\nCompound miter saw\\nCarpenter's level\\nJigsaw, for cutting a decorative profile\\n3-inch stainless steel coated deck screws, for putting the box frame together\\n1 ¼ or 1 ⅝ stainless steel or coated deck screws, for planking\\nHinges\\n1-2. Make sure the fence posts can support a gate if you already have a fence.\\nThe size of the gate should not be greater than 4' (1.22 m) in width. If it is wider, you must make and hang two gates, which will meet in the middle.\\nMeasure the entry at the top and bottom as they can easily be different. Build the gate to be square based on the narrower measure. Take diagonal measurements to check for squareness.\\n1-3. Anchor and plumb the fence posts, if necessary.\\nYou need to make sure that hanging the gate won't pull the posts to one side. The way you anchor the post will depend on the size of the fence, but in general, you need to make sure the post doesn't wiggle with weight. If it can be easily moved, the gate will sag. You should also check and see that the post is level, straight up and down.\\nIdeally, a 4-foot (1.22 m) tall gate needs a 5\\\" x 5\\\" (12.7cm x 12.7 cm) redwood post. A 6-foot (1.83 m) tall gate requires a 6\\\" x 6\\\" (15.3 cm x 15.3 m) post. Post length should be at least 1/3rd longer than the planned height of gate. The hole that the post will occupy should be at least 6” deeper than post will be buried. Post should be buried at least 1/3 but preferably 1/2 of its length and hole should be 3 x as wide as post. Concrete is best for filling hole but gravel or tightly packed earth may have to do. It is best to seal the end of post being buried using old motor oil, water proofing agent, bronzing (lightly charring post) or exterior paint. Giving buried end of post some form of water proofing protection will greatly extend life of post. Post should also be (proved) before using. Proving is allowing post to lay exposed to elements for at least 4 or more days to assure that it won't warp or twist (the longer the better, 2 weeks is best). This is especially important for 'treated' posts that have been bundled (unbundle, separate posts and allow to dry and wait to see if they will remain straight -proving). One doesn't want to come back and find that a post has warped after a week or so.\\n1-4. Measure the frame.\\nThe frame for a basic wooden fence gate should be a simple box with 4 sides, usually somewhat smaller than the gate opening. If you've got a 3x5 opening in the fence, build a 3x4 box out of a weather resistant wood. The box should be about an inch less wide than the rough opening to account for hinges and the thickness of gate as it swings.\\nTypically, you'll want to use the same variety of wood used on the fence. If you want a different color, redwood is sometimes used for large gates. Whatever you choose to use, buy more lumber than you'll need to make sure you've got enough for the job.\\n2. Building the Gate\\n2-1. Cut 2 x 4 (5.\\n. Start the gate by cutting the top and bottom pieces to the same width/length as you planned for, slightly smaller than the opening in the fence. Cut the upright side planks about 3 inches shorter than the height of the gate.\\n2-2. Screw in the top and bottom planks.\\nDrill a pilot hole for the screws before putting them in so that they do not split the wood. Fasten with deck screws, pre-drilling to keep the wood from splitting. Measure from the top bend to the opposite bottom corner. Both sides should measure the same.\\nTypically, as you start assembling, the gate framing, it's good to lay it out on a flat surface, such as a patio or driveway. Attach the top and bottom rails to the side rails, making sure it is square.\\n2-3. Cut an angled cross-brace and attach it to the top and bottom rails.\\nThis helps maintain strength and rigidity. Connect these to the frame boards that match the rest of the fence by using deck screws, pre-drilling as before.\\nMake your diagonal cut with a mitre saw. Place the diagonal onto the box and trance with a pencil where the angles go.\\nPlace the cross-brace at a 45 degree angle extending from the bottom corner of the gate to the opposite corner of the top of the gate.\\n2-4. Cut and install the planks.\\nOnce you've designed the frame and built it, all you need to do now is attach flat planks evenly over the front of the frame to finish your basic wooden gate. Measure planks from the top to the bottom of the frame and cut them accordingly. Leave at least ⅛ inch between the planks for weather allowances.\\nCut planks using a table saw and secure them using deck screws, drilling pilot holes to keep your planks nice and clean.\\n3. Finishing the Gate\\n3-1. Design the top of the gate.\\nMost people like to take a little time to design the top of the gate and add a little decoration to it, using a jigsaw. If you don't want to take the time to, it's not necessary, but it's a good way to make the fence look nice. Generally, a beveled edge, an imprint of your last name, or other little decorative markers are popular.\\nTo start, draw an arc across the top of the fence using a string and a pencil, filling it with decorative curves according to your taste. If you're a woodworker, feel free to get fancy with it. Use the jig to cut along your pattern.\\n3-2. Install hinges and attach the gate to the fence.\\nPut the gate into place, supporting it on the bottom with a 2x4 (1.5 inch off ground). Use a pencil to mark where the hinge should go on the post, and then put the gate down. Predrill where the screws will go. Prop up the gate and screw the hinges into the gate and attach the hinges to the post.\\n3-3. Install a gravity latch.\\nMost easy-to-use fences will use a gravity latch, which you can install after you've hung the fence. Mark where the screws will go with a pencil, then drill pilot holes and install the latch. Get the fit first before you put any finish on the gate.\\n3-4. Seal the wood.\\nTry to hit every exposed surface with your sealer, using a paintbrush or garden sprayer to apply. Most home retailers sell pads that are basically a sponge on a stick that you can use to spread it around, if necessary.\\nTry to cover the whole surface evenly, making sure you hit the bottoms of the planks, which tend to absorb more water than the face grains. This is the area most likely to rot or become discolored. Let dry for a couple hours in dry climates or a day in more humid climates.\\n3-5. Use your gate.\\nAfter you finish sealing the wood and have given it plenty of time to dry, your gate is ready to use! Open and close it to test it out.\\nTips\\nSpring or spring-loaded hinges ensure that the gate fence stays shut.\\nIf the gate seems weak, then you can add cross bracing to it for more support.\\nMeasure twice, cut once on all cuts! Remember, you can always cut things shorter but you can't undo any cut once you've done it.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety glasses and ear protection when working with power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A broke-down gate just makes your house look bad. A well-maintained gate, on the other hand, can be welcoming and give passers-by a great impression of the house beyond. If you want to upgrade the wooden gate in a privacy fence, or some other kind of wooden security fence, you can learn how to plan out the job properly, build the thing quickly, and finish it off securely.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Started\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the tools and materials necessary to the job.\", \"描述\": \"Aside from a fence in need of a gate, you'll need a few common hand-held carpentry tools to get started making your gate. It's likely you'll need:\\nScrewdriver\\nPower drill\\nCompound miter saw\\nCarpenter's level\\nJigsaw, for cutting a decorative profile\\n3-inch stainless steel coated deck screws, for putting the box frame together\\n1 ¼ or 1 ⅝ stainless steel or coated deck screws, for planking\\nHinges\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure the fence posts can support a gate if you already have a fence.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the gate should not be greater than 4' (1.22 m) in width. If it is wider, you must make and hang two gates, which will meet in the middle.\\nMeasure the entry at the top and bottom as they can easily be different. Build the gate to be square based on the narrower measure. Take diagonal measurements to check for squareness.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Anchor and plumb the fence posts, if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"You need to make sure that hanging the gate won't pull the posts to one side. The way you anchor the post will depend on the size of the fence, but in general, you need to make sure the post doesn't wiggle with weight. If it can be easily moved, the gate will sag. You should also check and see that the post is level, straight up and down.\\nIdeally, a 4-foot (1.22 m) tall gate needs a 5\\\" x 5\\\" (12.7cm x 12.7 cm) redwood post. A 6-foot (1.83 m) tall gate requires a 6\\\" x 6\\\" (15.3 cm x 15.3 m) post. Post length should be at least 1/3rd longer than the planned height of gate. The hole that the post will occupy should be at least 6” deeper than post will be buried. Post should be buried at least 1/3 but preferably 1/2 of its length and hole should be 3 x as wide as post. Concrete is best for filling hole but gravel or tightly packed earth may have to do. It is best to seal the end of post being buried using old motor oil, water proofing agent, bronzing (lightly charring post) or exterior paint. Giving buried end of post some form of water proofing protection will greatly extend life of post. Post should also be (proved) before using. Proving is allowing post to lay exposed to elements for at least 4 or more days to assure that it won't warp or twist (the longer the better, 2 weeks is best). This is especially important for 'treated' posts that have been bundled (unbundle, separate posts and allow to dry and wait to see if they will remain straight -proving). One doesn't want to come back and find that a post has warped after a week or so.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the frame.\", \"描述\": \"The frame for a basic wooden fence gate should be a simple box with 4 sides, usually somewhat smaller than the gate opening. If you've got a 3x5 opening in the fence, build a 3x4 box out of a weather resistant wood. The box should be about an inch less wide than the rough opening to account for hinges and the thickness of gate as it swings.\\nTypically, you'll want to use the same variety of wood used on the fence. If you want a different color, redwood is sometimes used for large gates. Whatever you choose to use, buy more lumber than you'll need to make sure you've got enough for the job.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Gate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 x 4 (5.\", \"描述\": \". Start the gate by cutting the top and bottom pieces to the same width/length as you planned for, slightly smaller than the opening in the fence. Cut the upright side planks about 3 inches shorter than the height of the gate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw in the top and bottom planks.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a pilot hole for the screws before putting them in so that they do not split the wood. Fasten with deck screws, pre-drilling to keep the wood from splitting. Measure from the top bend to the opposite bottom corner. Both sides should measure the same.\\nTypically, as you start assembling, the gate framing, it's good to lay it out on a flat surface, such as a patio or driveway. Attach the top and bottom rails to the side rails, making sure it is square.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut an angled cross-brace and attach it to the top and bottom rails.\", \"描述\": \"This helps maintain strength and rigidity. Connect these to the frame boards that match the rest of the fence by using deck screws, pre-drilling as before.\\nMake your diagonal cut with a mitre saw. Place the diagonal onto the box and trance with a pencil where the angles go.\\nPlace the cross-brace at a 45 degree angle extending from the bottom corner of the gate to the opposite corner of the top of the gate.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut and install the planks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've designed the frame and built it, all you need to do now is attach flat planks evenly over the front of the frame to finish your basic wooden gate. Measure planks from the top to the bottom of the frame and cut them accordingly. Leave at least ⅛ inch between the planks for weather allowances.\\nCut planks using a table saw and secure them using deck screws, drilling pilot holes to keep your planks nice and clean.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Gate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design the top of the gate.\", \"描述\": \"Most people like to take a little time to design the top of the gate and add a little decoration to it, using a jigsaw. If you don't want to take the time to, it's not necessary, but it's a good way to make the fence look nice. Generally, a beveled edge, an imprint of your last name, or other little decorative markers are popular.\\nTo start, draw an arc across the top of the fence using a string and a pencil, filling it with decorative curves according to your taste. If you're a woodworker, feel free to get fancy with it. Use the jig to cut along your pattern.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install hinges and attach the gate to the fence.\", \"描述\": \"Put the gate into place, supporting it on the bottom with a 2x4 (1.5 inch off ground). Use a pencil to mark where the hinge should go on the post, and then put the gate down. Predrill where the screws will go. Prop up the gate and screw the hinges into the gate and attach the hinges to the post.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install a gravity latch.\", \"描述\": \"Most easy-to-use fences will use a gravity latch, which you can install after you've hung the fence. Mark where the screws will go with a pencil, then drill pilot holes and install the latch. Get the fit first before you put any finish on the gate.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Seal the wood.\", \"描述\": \"Try to hit every exposed surface with your sealer, using a paintbrush or garden sprayer to apply. Most home retailers sell pads that are basically a sponge on a stick that you can use to spread it around, if necessary.\\nTry to cover the whole surface evenly, making sure you hit the bottoms of the planks, which tend to absorb more water than the face grains. This is the area most likely to rot or become discolored. Let dry for a couple hours in dry climates or a day in more humid climates.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use your gate.\", \"描述\": \"After you finish sealing the wood and have given it plenty of time to dry, your gate is ready to use! Open and close it to test it out.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Spring or spring-loaded hinges ensure that the gate fence stays shut.\\n\", \"If the gate seems weak, then you can add cross bracing to it for more support.\\n\", \"Measure twice, cut once on all cuts! Remember, you can always cut things shorter but you can't undo any cut once you've done it.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when working with power tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,630 |
How to Build a Wooden House in Minecraft
|
1. Making a Crafting Table
1-1. Obtain wood.
The first thing you need to do is to find a tree. When you find one, press and hold the left mouse button (PC), press the Left Bumper button (Xbox) while facing the trunk, or simply tap the trunk with your finger (PE). You’ll see your character’s hand punching at the wood and leaving cracks on it. Continue punching until one block of wood pops off, and it automatically goes to your hotbar.
You can keep punching trees until you feel like you have enough wood for later, but for now, this single block of wood is all you need to make your crafting table.
1-2. Open your inventory/crafting menu.
Press the E key (PC), the X button (Xbox), or the […] icon (PE) to view your inventory, and you’ll see, aside from several boxes where your items are stored in, there is also a set of four empty boxes arranged into a box formation with an arrow pointing towards a single empty box. That is your initial crafting grid, where you can make various things. However, seeing as it only has 4 slots in the grid, you can’t make anything complicated with it, which is why you need a crafting table.
1-3. Craft planks.
Place your wood on one of the slots by selecting it (clicking on it for the PC versions, scrolling to it with the RB and LB buttons on the Xbox, and tapping it in PE), and you’ll see that an item appears on the single box. It’s a plank, and one block of wood is worth 4 planks right off the bat. If you’ve got more wood, feel free to convert it all to planks, but for now, all you’ll be needing are 4 wood planks
1-4. Use the planks to make a crafting table.
Place one wood plank on each box of the four boxes in the crafting grid, and you’ll see another item on the rightmost box again. Take that item, and you now have a crafting table!
1-5. Learn to use the crafting table.
To use the crafting table, simply drag it to your hotbar, “hold” it by using your mouse’s scroll button or by pressing the corresponding number on its hotbar placement. Place it on the ground by right-clicking while holding it, and then right-click it again. It will bring you to a window that has a 3x3 version of the crafting window in your inventory.
2. Creating Tools
2-1. Obtain more wood.
Go on and punch some more trees and turn some of those wood into planks! Around 3–5 pieces of wood will suffice, depending on how many of these tools you’ll be making.
2-2. Open the crafting table.
On the PC, all you need to do is right-click it. On the Xbox, press X. On PE, just tap it.
2-3. Craft sticks.
Now, you’ll be needing some sticks, which you can make by crafting two planks placed vertically on the crafting window, and it will reward you with 4 sticks. You’ll be needing this to make the torches, pickaxes, and axes, which you will need to gather materials. At least 3 blocks worth of planks will suffice for the creation of many basic tools for your venture.
2-4. Craft a pickaxe.
Fill up the first row of the crafting table’s grid with planks—or cobblestone, if you managed to get those and want a better pickaxe—then put two sticks on the middle column.
It should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m m X s X X s X The resulting item will appear in the single box at the side of the grid.
2-5. Craft an axe.
Making an axe is similar, but the third plank from the left is moved to the first block second row.
It should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m X m s X X s X
2-6. Learn to use your tools.
To use your tools, simply place them on your hotbar, which can hold up to 9 items at a time. Hold the item you want to use the tool on by scrolling to it with the mouse scroll button or pressing the number corresponding to it in your keyboard (PC), using the Left and/or Right Bumper buttons on your controller (Xbox), or tapping it with your finger (PE). Then use your tool by holding the left mouse button (PC), holding down the Left Trigger button of your controller (Xbox), or tapping and holding it (PE). You can use the axe to chop trees down faster and pickaxes to gather cobblestone by going to a hard (takes too long to crack when punching) gray block and hitting it with your pickaxe.
3. Gathering Materials
3-1. Use your axe to chop down more trees.
Since this is a wooden house, your main resource is trees, and lots of it. So keep punching those trees until you have at least 2 full stacks (64 blocks each) of both Wood and Planks.
If you can find other kinds of trees, even better! This will add variation and color to your house. There are different trees for different biomes, and biomes are scattered around the world.
Oak and Birch are the most common trees. Birch has a white trunk with black stripes, and its planks are very pale in color. Oak is the usual kind, with a brown trunk and a lighter-brown grain.
Spruce is a very tall tree with darker green leaves and is a little harder to find, usually in very cold Biomes or high up in mountains. The wood and grain is a very dark, rich brown.
Acacia is a tree found in dry-looking areas called savannahs. The tree grows sideways, with a grayish trunk and a bright orange grain.
Dark Oak is an unusually thick and large tree found in a Roofed Forest biome and is usually found near Giant Mushrooms. It’s got a darker trunk and dark, slightly muddier grain from regular oak, and the planks are a darker brown than spruce.
Jungle Wood is the rarest type of wood currently in the game, due to the scarcity of Jungle biomes. Jungle trees are tall with unusual leaves (green speckled with oval yellowish “fruits”), and the planks have a brown-pink grain.
3-2. Craft a furnace.
While not strictly necessary for the basic structure, furnaces are useful if you want to make glass for your windows, a brick roof, or use it to simply smelt iron for better tools. To make a furnace, gather some stone, go to your crafting table, and place stone on all sides of the crafting grid, leaving the middle slot free. m m m m X m m m m
To smelt things, put the material you want converted, like sand or clay, on the top square, then put something flammable like wood or coal on the bottom square, and after a short wait, your item is converted to another!
Iron and Gold ore need to be smelted before you can make items with them.
3-3. Craft your torches.
One valuable material you can make whenever you want are torches, and for that you need coal and/or charcoal. Coal is somewhat easy to find, since it resembles stone with black spots on it, and when you gather it with a pickaxe, a piece of coal is dropped. Charcoal is also easy to make if you have a furnace and some wood. You simply smelt the wood, not planks but actual wood, and it turns into charcoal!
Crafting torches is as simple as stacking a piece of coal over a stick on the crafting window, and you immediately get 4 torches, which is good, since you’ll need as many of them as you can to light the way and ward off monsters!
4. Making the Wooden House
4-1. Locate a free space.
At the absolute minimum, you’ll be needing about a 5x5 square of free space to build your house. This is to accommodate a bed, a chest, and a crafting table without running out of room to move, but you can build a bigger house if you feel like it or if you have enough resources.
If you want to clear out an area, simply start punching the ground blocks in the nearby area until you have a flat space. You might need a pickaxe or axe if the area is rocky or full of trees.
At the very beginning, it’s best to build your house near the spawn point, which is where you first appear once you make your world, and where you end up in whenever you die. This will provide you a steady shelter from whatever monsters lurk in the night, and a place to keep all your stuff.
4-2. Create an outline.
Line out your house’s shape by laying down wood blocks, which can be done by selecting your desired material and pressing the right mouse button, RT button, or tapping on where you think the house’s corners will be. This will not only help you keep track of your house and its size and shape, but it will also make your wood house look more sturdy, and looks nice once you start adding your walls.
Connect the walls together with Wood Planks to create an outline, but remember to keep one space open to serve as your door so you can go in and out. Build up the wood posts by placing more blocks on top of the corner blocks until it’s at least 4 blocks tall. They’ll serve as the guide to how tall your house is, or even as a base for a second floor if you want.
4-3. Build up the walls.
A house needs walls, so slowly fill in the spaces between the pillars with your Wood Planks by building on the outline of the house, but take care to leave the door space at least two blocks high and to leave a small window now and then to let in light.
4-4. Create a roof.
A house also needs a roof, so fill in the top of the wall by placing blocks inwardly from the topmost blocks until the inside of your house is covered.
Now if you don’t want a square-ish house, you can slope the roof a bit. The simplest way to do this, and the method that works best on a less-complicated house design, is to line a row of wood placed straight horizontally to create a “beam,” around the topmost block of the walls adjacent to your door, then stacking more beams on both sides diagonally until they meet.
Another way to create a nice roof is by crafting stairs! To craft stairs, you need your trusty crafting table. Starting from the left, fill the entire leftmost column with wood planks. Fill the bottom row with the same material, and then place a block of the material on the middle block so it resembles a stair. X X mm X X X m morm m X m m mm m m
You’ll be rewarded with 4 stairs. You can then repeat the same process of stacking them diagonally on your house like in the blocky roof method, but if there is a single block of free space between them, make some slabs by lining a row with the same kind of wood you made stairs from, and use those to join the stairs. Make sure to line the bottom of your roof with the same kind of wood as your pillar, and fill the rest of the gap with the same kind of planks as your house!
Out of the two methods for creating a roof, the stairs method is the most convincing and visually pleasing, but costs more time, materials, and effort.
5. Making a Home Out of the House
5-1. Craft a door.
Making a door is both nice-looking and useful, since it prevents monsters and other creatures from invading your little hideout when you keep it closed.
Take six wood planks, and access your crafting table. Fill two columns on the crafting space and you’ll get three doors. Go up to the house opening and install the door by placing it on the open space you left on the wall so you can protect your privacy!
On PC, different kinds of wood make different styles of doors, so feel free to experiment!
5-2. Craft a bed.
Beds are wonderful, soft things. The best part is that if you die, you just wake up beside it, though you drop all your stuff where you died and you’ll have to get it back. To make one, like the bottom row of your crafting table’s grid with planks, then the middle with wool, and take out your resulting bed! Now place it inside your house, and then at night, or during random thunderstorms, you can right-click it to sleep the danger away!
Wool can be acquired by killing or shaving sheep. To kill sheep, keep punching a sheep or hitting it with your tool until it falls down. Killing yields 1 Wool. Shaving requires Shears, which can be acquired by smelting iron ore into iron ingots, then laying them diagonally in your inventory crafting grid or crafting table. Now select the Shears and go up to your sheep. In the PC version, you right-click it; on Xbox, you press LT; and on PE, you tap and hold. Shearing a sheep would leave you a bald-but-alive-sheep and 1–3 Wool.
5-3. Create flooring.
Grass is nice, but not for indoors, so scoop out the first layer of dirt blocks on the inside of your house and replace them with any material you want. Remember, choosing a different material like stone or brick, or choosing a different kind of wood from your house’s main material, will add a dash of color and make your house look inviting.
5-4. Create windows in your walls.
While you may have some holes punched on the walls for your windows, they’d look better (and be safer) if you put some glass on them. Simply smelt some sand, which you can usually find near water or a desert, and place it on the holes. Be careful when placing them inside the window gaps, though; they break too easily, and you can’t gather the glass back if you place the block wrong!
5-5. Place torches for lighting.
When it gets dark, you’d prefer some light, so putting some torches along the walls would definitely brighten up the space! The windows do a fair enough job during the daytime, but when night comes, the light keeps the monsters from appearing in your house, so better invest on torches!
5-6. Surround the house with a picket fence.
A picket fence is also nice to look at, and adds a layer of protection from the monsters. Line two stacks of planks on the left and the right columns of your crafting table, and line two stacks of sticks on the middle column. Take your fence and place it around your house, but be sure to leave a gap you can go through!
The recipe for Xbox uses sticks and only sticks lining two rows of the crafting grid.
Adding a fence gate makes it more secure, and the recipe is just the reverse of the fence itself: line the left and right column with two stacks of sticks each, then grab your brand-new fence gate and place it on the gap on your fence! Ta-da! A nice little picket fence with a sturdy gate!
Minecraft PC and Pocket Edition now have fences made from different wood, so you can choose if you want a dark (Spruce, Dark Oak) fence, a light (Birch, Oak) fence, or a colorful (Jungle, Acacia) one!
5-7. Have fun with the house!
Now that your home is complete and secure, take a moment to rejoice and think up of ways to spruce it up a bit!
Feel free to fill the house with goodies, furniture, and such. Experimenting with slabs, stairs, blocks, and fences is the way to go with this one, so run wild and feel free to create whatever you want!
Tips
Do note that this house is extremely vulnerable to sudden creeper attacks, since wood is one of the least blast-resistant materials in Minecraft. You’re better off placing your valuables in a basement made of stone!
Feel free to experiment on the size, shape, or even the general look of your house!
Make sure to keep your house light and make a spare room for protection from the mobs.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Crafting Table\\n1-1. Obtain wood.\\nThe first thing you need to do is to find a tree. When you find one, press and hold the left mouse button (PC), press the Left Bumper button (Xbox) while facing the trunk, or simply tap the trunk with your finger (PE). You’ll see your character’s hand punching at the wood and leaving cracks on it. Continue punching until one block of wood pops off, and it automatically goes to your hotbar.\\nYou can keep punching trees until you feel like you have enough wood for later, but for now, this single block of wood is all you need to make your crafting table.\\n1-2. Open your inventory/crafting menu.\\nPress the E key (PC), the X button (Xbox), or the […] icon (PE) to view your inventory, and you’ll see, aside from several boxes where your items are stored in, there is also a set of four empty boxes arranged into a box formation with an arrow pointing towards a single empty box. That is your initial crafting grid, where you can make various things. However, seeing as it only has 4 slots in the grid, you can’t make anything complicated with it, which is why you need a crafting table.\\n1-3. Craft planks.\\nPlace your wood on one of the slots by selecting it (clicking on it for the PC versions, scrolling to it with the RB and LB buttons on the Xbox, and tapping it in PE), and you’ll see that an item appears on the single box. It’s a plank, and one block of wood is worth 4 planks right off the bat. If you’ve got more wood, feel free to convert it all to planks, but for now, all you’ll be needing are 4 wood planks\\n1-4. Use the planks to make a crafting table.\\nPlace one wood plank on each box of the four boxes in the crafting grid, and you’ll see another item on the rightmost box again. Take that item, and you now have a crafting table!\\n1-5. Learn to use the crafting table.\\nTo use the crafting table, simply drag it to your hotbar, “hold” it by using your mouse’s scroll button or by pressing the corresponding number on its hotbar placement. Place it on the ground by right-clicking while holding it, and then right-click it again. It will bring you to a window that has a 3x3 version of the crafting window in your inventory.\\n2. Creating Tools\\n2-1. Obtain more wood.\\nGo on and punch some more trees and turn some of those wood into planks! Around 3–5 pieces of wood will suffice, depending on how many of these tools you’ll be making.\\n2-2. Open the crafting table.\\nOn the PC, all you need to do is right-click it. On the Xbox, press X. On PE, just tap it.\\n2-3. Craft sticks.\\nNow, you’ll be needing some sticks, which you can make by crafting two planks placed vertically on the crafting window, and it will reward you with 4 sticks. You’ll be needing this to make the torches, pickaxes, and axes, which you will need to gather materials. At least 3 blocks worth of planks will suffice for the creation of many basic tools for your venture.\\n2-4. Craft a pickaxe.\\nFill up the first row of the crafting table’s grid with planks—or cobblestone, if you managed to get those and want a better pickaxe—then put two sticks on the middle column.\\nIt should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m m X s X X s X The resulting item will appear in the single box at the side of the grid.\\n2-5. Craft an axe.\\nMaking an axe is similar, but the third plank from the left is moved to the first block second row.\\nIt should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m X m s X X s X\\n2-6. Learn to use your tools.\\nTo use your tools, simply place them on your hotbar, which can hold up to 9 items at a time. Hold the item you want to use the tool on by scrolling to it with the mouse scroll button or pressing the number corresponding to it in your keyboard (PC), using the Left and/or Right Bumper buttons on your controller (Xbox), or tapping it with your finger (PE). Then use your tool by holding the left mouse button (PC), holding down the Left Trigger button of your controller (Xbox), or tapping and holding it (PE). You can use the axe to chop trees down faster and pickaxes to gather cobblestone by going to a hard (takes too long to crack when punching) gray block and hitting it with your pickaxe.\\n3. Gathering Materials\\n3-1. Use your axe to chop down more trees.\\nSince this is a wooden house, your main resource is trees, and lots of it. So keep punching those trees until you have at least 2 full stacks (64 blocks each) of both Wood and Planks.\\nIf you can find other kinds of trees, even better! This will add variation and color to your house. There are different trees for different biomes, and biomes are scattered around the world.\\nOak and Birch are the most common trees. Birch has a white trunk with black stripes, and its planks are very pale in color. Oak is the usual kind, with a brown trunk and a lighter-brown grain.\\nSpruce is a very tall tree with darker green leaves and is a little harder to find, usually in very cold Biomes or high up in mountains. The wood and grain is a very dark, rich brown.\\nAcacia is a tree found in dry-looking areas called savannahs. The tree grows sideways, with a grayish trunk and a bright orange grain.\\nDark Oak is an unusually thick and large tree found in a Roofed Forest biome and is usually found near Giant Mushrooms. It’s got a darker trunk and dark, slightly muddier grain from regular oak, and the planks are a darker brown than spruce.\\nJungle Wood is the rarest type of wood currently in the game, due to the scarcity of Jungle biomes. Jungle trees are tall with unusual leaves (green speckled with oval yellowish “fruits”), and the planks have a brown-pink grain.\\n3-2. Craft a furnace.\\nWhile not strictly necessary for the basic structure, furnaces are useful if you want to make glass for your windows, a brick roof, or use it to simply smelt iron for better tools. To make a furnace, gather some stone, go to your crafting table, and place stone on all sides of the crafting grid, leaving the middle slot free. m m m m X m m m m\\nTo smelt things, put the material you want converted, like sand or clay, on the top square, then put something flammable like wood or coal on the bottom square, and after a short wait, your item is converted to another!\\nIron and Gold ore need to be smelted before you can make items with them.\\n3-3. Craft your torches.\\nOne valuable material you can make whenever you want are torches, and for that you need coal and/or charcoal. Coal is somewhat easy to find, since it resembles stone with black spots on it, and when you gather it with a pickaxe, a piece of coal is dropped. Charcoal is also easy to make if you have a furnace and some wood. You simply smelt the wood, not planks but actual wood, and it turns into charcoal!\\nCrafting torches is as simple as stacking a piece of coal over a stick on the crafting window, and you immediately get 4 torches, which is good, since you’ll need as many of them as you can to light the way and ward off monsters!\\n4. Making the Wooden House\\n4-1. Locate a free space.\\nAt the absolute minimum, you’ll be needing about a 5x5 square of free space to build your house. This is to accommodate a bed, a chest, and a crafting table without running out of room to move, but you can build a bigger house if you feel like it or if you have enough resources.\\nIf you want to clear out an area, simply start punching the ground blocks in the nearby area until you have a flat space. You might need a pickaxe or axe if the area is rocky or full of trees.\\nAt the very beginning, it’s best to build your house near the spawn point, which is where you first appear once you make your world, and where you end up in whenever you die. This will provide you a steady shelter from whatever monsters lurk in the night, and a place to keep all your stuff.\\n4-2. Create an outline.\\nLine out your house’s shape by laying down wood blocks, which can be done by selecting your desired material and pressing the right mouse button, RT button, or tapping on where you think the house’s corners will be. This will not only help you keep track of your house and its size and shape, but it will also make your wood house look more sturdy, and looks nice once you start adding your walls.\\nConnect the walls together with Wood Planks to create an outline, but remember to keep one space open to serve as your door so you can go in and out. Build up the wood posts by placing more blocks on top of the corner blocks until it’s at least 4 blocks tall. They’ll serve as the guide to how tall your house is, or even as a base for a second floor if you want.\\n4-3. Build up the walls.\\nA house needs walls, so slowly fill in the spaces between the pillars with your Wood Planks by building on the outline of the house, but take care to leave the door space at least two blocks high and to leave a small window now and then to let in light.\\n4-4. Create a roof.\\nA house also needs a roof, so fill in the top of the wall by placing blocks inwardly from the topmost blocks until the inside of your house is covered.\\nNow if you don’t want a square-ish house, you can slope the roof a bit. The simplest way to do this, and the method that works best on a less-complicated house design, is to line a row of wood placed straight horizontally to create a “beam,” around the topmost block of the walls adjacent to your door, then stacking more beams on both sides diagonally until they meet.\\nAnother way to create a nice roof is by crafting stairs! To craft stairs, you need your trusty crafting table. Starting from the left, fill the entire leftmost column with wood planks. Fill the bottom row with the same material, and then place a block of the material on the middle block so it resembles a stair. X X mm X X X m morm m X m m mm m m\\nYou’ll be rewarded with 4 stairs. You can then repeat the same process of stacking them diagonally on your house like in the blocky roof method, but if there is a single block of free space between them, make some slabs by lining a row with the same kind of wood you made stairs from, and use those to join the stairs. Make sure to line the bottom of your roof with the same kind of wood as your pillar, and fill the rest of the gap with the same kind of planks as your house!\\nOut of the two methods for creating a roof, the stairs method is the most convincing and visually pleasing, but costs more time, materials, and effort.\\n5. Making a Home Out of the House\\n5-1. Craft a door.\\nMaking a door is both nice-looking and useful, since it prevents monsters and other creatures from invading your little hideout when you keep it closed.\\nTake six wood planks, and access your crafting table. Fill two columns on the crafting space and you’ll get three doors. Go up to the house opening and install the door by placing it on the open space you left on the wall so you can protect your privacy!\\nOn PC, different kinds of wood make different styles of doors, so feel free to experiment!\\n5-2. Craft a bed.\\nBeds are wonderful, soft things. The best part is that if you die, you just wake up beside it, though you drop all your stuff where you died and you’ll have to get it back. To make one, like the bottom row of your crafting table’s grid with planks, then the middle with wool, and take out your resulting bed! Now place it inside your house, and then at night, or during random thunderstorms, you can right-click it to sleep the danger away!\\nWool can be acquired by killing or shaving sheep. To kill sheep, keep punching a sheep or hitting it with your tool until it falls down. Killing yields 1 Wool. Shaving requires Shears, which can be acquired by smelting iron ore into iron ingots, then laying them diagonally in your inventory crafting grid or crafting table. Now select the Shears and go up to your sheep. In the PC version, you right-click it; on Xbox, you press LT; and on PE, you tap and hold. Shearing a sheep would leave you a bald-but-alive-sheep and 1–3 Wool.\\n5-3. Create flooring.\\nGrass is nice, but not for indoors, so scoop out the first layer of dirt blocks on the inside of your house and replace them with any material you want. Remember, choosing a different material like stone or brick, or choosing a different kind of wood from your house’s main material, will add a dash of color and make your house look inviting.\\n5-4. Create windows in your walls.\\nWhile you may have some holes punched on the walls for your windows, they’d look better (and be safer) if you put some glass on them. Simply smelt some sand, which you can usually find near water or a desert, and place it on the holes. Be careful when placing them inside the window gaps, though; they break too easily, and you can’t gather the glass back if you place the block wrong!\\n5-5. Place torches for lighting.\\nWhen it gets dark, you’d prefer some light, so putting some torches along the walls would definitely brighten up the space! The windows do a fair enough job during the daytime, but when night comes, the light keeps the monsters from appearing in your house, so better invest on torches!\\n5-6. Surround the house with a picket fence.\\nA picket fence is also nice to look at, and adds a layer of protection from the monsters. Line two stacks of planks on the left and the right columns of your crafting table, and line two stacks of sticks on the middle column. Take your fence and place it around your house, but be sure to leave a gap you can go through!\\nThe recipe for Xbox uses sticks and only sticks lining two rows of the crafting grid.\\nAdding a fence gate makes it more secure, and the recipe is just the reverse of the fence itself: line the left and right column with two stacks of sticks each, then grab your brand-new fence gate and place it on the gap on your fence! Ta-da! A nice little picket fence with a sturdy gate!\\nMinecraft PC and Pocket Edition now have fences made from different wood, so you can choose if you want a dark (Spruce, Dark Oak) fence, a light (Birch, Oak) fence, or a colorful (Jungle, Acacia) one!\\n5-7. Have fun with the house!\\nNow that your home is complete and secure, take a moment to rejoice and think up of ways to spruce it up a bit!\\nFeel free to fill the house with goodies, furniture, and such. Experimenting with slabs, stairs, blocks, and fences is the way to go with this one, so run wild and feel free to create whatever you want!\\nTips\\nDo note that this house is extremely vulnerable to sudden creeper attacks, since wood is one of the least blast-resistant materials in Minecraft. You’re better off placing your valuables in a basement made of stone!\\nFeel free to experiment on the size, shape, or even the general look of your house!\\nMake sure to keep your house light and make a spare room for protection from the mobs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Having a house is always nice. You can put your stuff there, decorate it to your heart’s desire, and it keeps you safe from the hoard of zombies chasing after you at night. Or at least in Minecraft it does. There are many ways to build a house in Minecraft, and one of the simplest and most cost-effective is a wooden house. You can even start building as soon as you start playing! Minecraft is available on PC (Windows, Mac, Linux), Xbox 360, and Pocket Edition. Action keys provided are for these three respectively.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Crafting Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain wood.\", \"描述\": \"The first thing you need to do is to find a tree. When you find one, press and hold the left mouse button (PC), press the Left Bumper button (Xbox) while facing the trunk, or simply tap the trunk with your finger (PE). You’ll see your character’s hand punching at the wood and leaving cracks on it. Continue punching until one block of wood pops off, and it automatically goes to your hotbar.\\nYou can keep punching trees until you feel like you have enough wood for later, but for now, this single block of wood is all you need to make your crafting table.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open your inventory/crafting menu.\", \"描述\": \"Press the E key (PC), the X button (Xbox), or the […] icon (PE) to view your inventory, and you’ll see, aside from several boxes where your items are stored in, there is also a set of four empty boxes arranged into a box formation with an arrow pointing towards a single empty box. That is your initial crafting grid, where you can make various things. However, seeing as it only has 4 slots in the grid, you can’t make anything complicated with it, which is why you need a crafting table.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft planks.\", \"描述\": \"Place your wood on one of the slots by selecting it (clicking on it for the PC versions, scrolling to it with the RB and LB buttons on the Xbox, and tapping it in PE), and you’ll see that an item appears on the single box. It’s a plank, and one block of wood is worth 4 planks right off the bat. If you’ve got more wood, feel free to convert it all to planks, but for now, all you’ll be needing are 4 wood planks\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the planks to make a crafting table.\", \"描述\": \"Place one wood plank on each box of the four boxes in the crafting grid, and you’ll see another item on the rightmost box again. Take that item, and you now have a crafting table!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Learn to use the crafting table.\", \"描述\": \"To use the crafting table, simply drag it to your hotbar, “hold” it by using your mouse’s scroll button or by pressing the corresponding number on its hotbar placement. Place it on the ground by right-clicking while holding it, and then right-click it again. It will bring you to a window that has a 3x3 version of the crafting window in your inventory.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating Tools\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain more wood.\", \"描述\": \"Go on and punch some more trees and turn some of those wood into planks! Around 3–5 pieces of wood will suffice, depending on how many of these tools you’ll be making.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open the crafting table.\", \"描述\": \"On the PC, all you need to do is right-click it. On the Xbox, press X. On PE, just tap it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft sticks.\", \"描述\": \"Now, you’ll be needing some sticks, which you can make by crafting two planks placed vertically on the crafting window, and it will reward you with 4 sticks. You’ll be needing this to make the torches, pickaxes, and axes, which you will need to gather materials. At least 3 blocks worth of planks will suffice for the creation of many basic tools for your venture.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Craft a pickaxe.\", \"描述\": \"Fill up the first row of the crafting table’s grid with planks—or cobblestone, if you managed to get those and want a better pickaxe—then put two sticks on the middle column.\\nIt should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m m X s X X s X The resulting item will appear in the single box at the side of the grid.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Craft an axe.\", \"描述\": \"Making an axe is similar, but the third plank from the left is moved to the first block second row.\\nIt should look like this in the grid: X = empty space m = material s = stick m m X m s X X s X\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Learn to use your tools.\", \"描述\": \"To use your tools, simply place them on your hotbar, which can hold up to 9 items at a time. Hold the item you want to use the tool on by scrolling to it with the mouse scroll button or pressing the number corresponding to it in your keyboard (PC), using the Left and/or Right Bumper buttons on your controller (Xbox), or tapping it with your finger (PE). Then use your tool by holding the left mouse button (PC), holding down the Left Trigger button of your controller (Xbox), or tapping and holding it (PE). You can use the axe to chop trees down faster and pickaxes to gather cobblestone by going to a hard (takes too long to crack when punching) gray block and hitting it with your pickaxe.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gathering Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use your axe to chop down more trees.\", \"描述\": \"Since this is a wooden house, your main resource is trees, and lots of it. So keep punching those trees until you have at least 2 full stacks (64 blocks each) of both Wood and Planks.\\nIf you can find other kinds of trees, even better! This will add variation and color to your house. There are different trees for different biomes, and biomes are scattered around the world.\\nOak and Birch are the most common trees. Birch has a white trunk with black stripes, and its planks are very pale in color. Oak is the usual kind, with a brown trunk and a lighter-brown grain.\\nSpruce is a very tall tree with darker green leaves and is a little harder to find, usually in very cold Biomes or high up in mountains. The wood and grain is a very dark, rich brown.\\nAcacia is a tree found in dry-looking areas called savannahs. The tree grows sideways, with a grayish trunk and a bright orange grain.\\nDark Oak is an unusually thick and large tree found in a Roofed Forest biome and is usually found near Giant Mushrooms. It’s got a darker trunk and dark, slightly muddier grain from regular oak, and the planks are a darker brown than spruce.\\nJungle Wood is the rarest type of wood currently in the game, due to the scarcity of Jungle biomes. Jungle trees are tall with unusual leaves (green speckled with oval yellowish “fruits”), and the planks have a brown-pink grain.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft a furnace.\", \"描述\": \"While not strictly necessary for the basic structure, furnaces are useful if you want to make glass for your windows, a brick roof, or use it to simply smelt iron for better tools. To make a furnace, gather some stone, go to your crafting table, and place stone on all sides of the crafting grid, leaving the middle slot free. m m m m X m m m m\\nTo smelt things, put the material you want converted, like sand or clay, on the top square, then put something flammable like wood or coal on the bottom square, and after a short wait, your item is converted to another!\\nIron and Gold ore need to be smelted before you can make items with them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Craft your torches.\", \"描述\": \"One valuable material you can make whenever you want are torches, and for that you need coal and/or charcoal. Coal is somewhat easy to find, since it resembles stone with black spots on it, and when you gather it with a pickaxe, a piece of coal is dropped. Charcoal is also easy to make if you have a furnace and some wood. You simply smelt the wood, not planks but actual wood, and it turns into charcoal!\\nCrafting torches is as simple as stacking a piece of coal over a stick on the crafting window, and you immediately get 4 torches, which is good, since you’ll need as many of them as you can to light the way and ward off monsters!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making the Wooden House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Locate a free space.\", \"描述\": \"At the absolute minimum, you’ll be needing about a 5x5 square of free space to build your house. This is to accommodate a bed, a chest, and a crafting table without running out of room to move, but you can build a bigger house if you feel like it or if you have enough resources.\\nIf you want to clear out an area, simply start punching the ground blocks in the nearby area until you have a flat space. You might need a pickaxe or axe if the area is rocky or full of trees.\\nAt the very beginning, it’s best to build your house near the spawn point, which is where you first appear once you make your world, and where you end up in whenever you die. This will provide you a steady shelter from whatever monsters lurk in the night, and a place to keep all your stuff.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create an outline.\", \"描述\": \"Line out your house’s shape by laying down wood blocks, which can be done by selecting your desired material and pressing the right mouse button, RT button, or tapping on where you think the house’s corners will be. This will not only help you keep track of your house and its size and shape, but it will also make your wood house look more sturdy, and looks nice once you start adding your walls.\\nConnect the walls together with Wood Planks to create an outline, but remember to keep one space open to serve as your door so you can go in and out. Build up the wood posts by placing more blocks on top of the corner blocks until it’s at least 4 blocks tall. They’ll serve as the guide to how tall your house is, or even as a base for a second floor if you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build up the walls.\", \"描述\": \"A house needs walls, so slowly fill in the spaces between the pillars with your Wood Planks by building on the outline of the house, but take care to leave the door space at least two blocks high and to leave a small window now and then to let in light.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a roof.\", \"描述\": \"A house also needs a roof, so fill in the top of the wall by placing blocks inwardly from the topmost blocks until the inside of your house is covered.\\nNow if you don’t want a square-ish house, you can slope the roof a bit. The simplest way to do this, and the method that works best on a less-complicated house design, is to line a row of wood placed straight horizontally to create a “beam,” around the topmost block of the walls adjacent to your door, then stacking more beams on both sides diagonally until they meet.\\nAnother way to create a nice roof is by crafting stairs! To craft stairs, you need your trusty crafting table. Starting from the left, fill the entire leftmost column with wood planks. Fill the bottom row with the same material, and then place a block of the material on the middle block so it resembles a stair. X X mm X X X m morm m X m m mm m m\\nYou’ll be rewarded with 4 stairs. You can then repeat the same process of stacking them diagonally on your house like in the blocky roof method, but if there is a single block of free space between them, make some slabs by lining a row with the same kind of wood you made stairs from, and use those to join the stairs. Make sure to line the bottom of your roof with the same kind of wood as your pillar, and fill the rest of the gap with the same kind of planks as your house!\\nOut of the two methods for creating a roof, the stairs method is the most convincing and visually pleasing, but costs more time, materials, and effort.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Making a Home Out of the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Craft a door.\", \"描述\": \"Making a door is both nice-looking and useful, since it prevents monsters and other creatures from invading your little hideout when you keep it closed.\\nTake six wood planks, and access your crafting table. Fill two columns on the crafting space and you’ll get three doors. Go up to the house opening and install the door by placing it on the open space you left on the wall so you can protect your privacy!\\nOn PC, different kinds of wood make different styles of doors, so feel free to experiment!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Craft a bed.\", \"描述\": \"Beds are wonderful, soft things. The best part is that if you die, you just wake up beside it, though you drop all your stuff where you died and you’ll have to get it back. To make one, like the bottom row of your crafting table’s grid with planks, then the middle with wool, and take out your resulting bed! Now place it inside your house, and then at night, or during random thunderstorms, you can right-click it to sleep the danger away!\\nWool can be acquired by killing or shaving sheep. To kill sheep, keep punching a sheep or hitting it with your tool until it falls down. Killing yields 1 Wool. Shaving requires Shears, which can be acquired by smelting iron ore into iron ingots, then laying them diagonally in your inventory crafting grid or crafting table. Now select the Shears and go up to your sheep. In the PC version, you right-click it; on Xbox, you press LT; and on PE, you tap and hold. Shearing a sheep would leave you a bald-but-alive-sheep and 1–3 Wool.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Grass is nice, but not for indoors, so scoop out the first layer of dirt blocks on the inside of your house and replace them with any material you want. Remember, choosing a different material like stone or brick, or choosing a different kind of wood from your house’s main material, will add a dash of color and make your house look inviting.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create windows in your walls.\", \"描述\": \"While you may have some holes punched on the walls for your windows, they’d look better (and be safer) if you put some glass on them. Simply smelt some sand, which you can usually find near water or a desert, and place it on the holes. Be careful when placing them inside the window gaps, though; they break too easily, and you can’t gather the glass back if you place the block wrong!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place torches for lighting.\", \"描述\": \"When it gets dark, you’d prefer some light, so putting some torches along the walls would definitely brighten up the space! The windows do a fair enough job during the daytime, but when night comes, the light keeps the monsters from appearing in your house, so better invest on torches!\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Surround the house with a picket fence.\", \"描述\": \"A picket fence is also nice to look at, and adds a layer of protection from the monsters. Line two stacks of planks on the left and the right columns of your crafting table, and line two stacks of sticks on the middle column. Take your fence and place it around your house, but be sure to leave a gap you can go through!\\nThe recipe for Xbox uses sticks and only sticks lining two rows of the crafting grid.\\nAdding a fence gate makes it more secure, and the recipe is just the reverse of the fence itself: line the left and right column with two stacks of sticks each, then grab your brand-new fence gate and place it on the gap on your fence! Ta-da! A nice little picket fence with a sturdy gate!\\nMinecraft PC and Pocket Edition now have fences made from different wood, so you can choose if you want a dark (Spruce, Dark Oak) fence, a light (Birch, Oak) fence, or a colorful (Jungle, Acacia) one!\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Have fun with the house!\", \"描述\": \"Now that your home is complete and secure, take a moment to rejoice and think up of ways to spruce it up a bit!\\nFeel free to fill the house with goodies, furniture, and such. Experimenting with slabs, stairs, blocks, and fences is the way to go with this one, so run wild and feel free to create whatever you want!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Do note that this house is extremely vulnerable to sudden creeper attacks, since wood is one of the least blast-resistant materials in Minecraft. You’re better off placing your valuables in a basement made of stone!\\n\", \"Feel free to experiment on the size, shape, or even the general look of your house!\\n\", \"Make sure to keep your house light and make a spare room for protection from the mobs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,631 |
How to Build a Wooden Louvered Gable Vent
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1. Steps
1-1. Measure the gable to decide how large a vent you can put into it and to determine the pitch of the roof if you want your vent to match it.
This article will describe construction of one that fits the center of the gable underneath the roof flashing.
1-2. Figure out how much lumber you will need and what type you will use.
Rough sawn cedar is used in the images here for durability and appearance, but any weather resistant lumber can be used. If you want to get exact material requirements, you may need to produce a scale drawing with specific nominal dimension lumber lengths and sizes.
1-3. Assemble other tools and materials you will use for the project.
See Things You'll Need for tools and other items, below. A table saw, a work table, a compound miter saw, and a finish nailer are very helpful for the project.
1-4. Lay out the shape and size of your vent on a flat work table or sheet of plywood.
Drawing it here to scale will allow for determining accurate lengths and angles, and to help you position the pieces together for fastening.
1-5. Rip the louver boards on a bevel.
22.5 degrees is generally enough, but 30 or even 45 degrees may be preferred. If you measure carefully and cut with a table saw, you should be able to get two vanes from each board, assuming you are using 1X6 cedar fence boards. These will be the stock cut for vanes later.
1-6. Cut the face frame (1X4 treated southern yellow pine in images, used for strength, not appearance) to the sizes and angles established from your layout.
A miter saw is helpful in getting accurate angle cuts.
1-7. Assemble the face frame using finish nails or screws, then test fit on the gable where it will be installed.
You may want to scribe the inside dimension while doing this to make cutting the hole in the siding easier later on.
1-8. Cut the louver vane frame, again, using the layout for lengths and angles.
The frame should be at least ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) deeper than the width of your vanes to make sure it doesn't leak.
1-9. Attach the vane frame to the face frame, caulking the seam with a waterproof sealant and using rust resistant wood screws.
1-10. Cut a compound angle on one end of a piece of the vane stock ripped earlier.
The width angle will be 45 degrees, the bevel should be about 30 degrees, with both long points facing the same direction and opposite the direction of the bevel on the edge of the stock.
1-11. Place the stock so it fits within the vane frame to determine the overall length of this first vane.
You can check the fit of the angles approximately at this time but until the opposite end is cut, it isn't possible to do exactly.
1-12. Mark the approximate length of the vane, and cut it an inch or so longer than needed to allow for angle adjustments when it is fit into position.
1-13. Try the vane when it cut to see how well the angles fit.
Make scribed adjustments and check the angles on the saw so later cuts on the next vanes will all be the same.
1-14. Mark the frame about 3 inches (7.6 cm) higher up and measure the difference in length form you longest vane to this one.
If it is ten inches shorter, you can reduce the length of subsequent vanes by the same amount to space them equally without measuring each one.
1-15. Cut all the vanes needed to complete the louver.
Make sure each angle is cut so it faces the same way in relation to other angles and sort them by length.
1-16. Begin installing the vanes working from the shortest (top) to the longest, nailing each end, and keeping the vanes flush with the bottom (back) of the face frame so insect screening can be stapled to them later.
1-17. Turn the louver over to complete nailing from the back side where the ends are more easily accessed.
Use a finish nailer with corrosion resistant nails or corrosion resistant screws and a screw gun depending on your preference. Remember, the louver will be exposed to weather conditions, so it should be built securely to prevent wind damage that will result in leaks into your building.
1-18. Caulk, then paint or stain the louver if desired.
1-19. Place the louver on the table with the back up, and stretch the aluminum insect screen on it.
Staple it in place with ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) galvanized staples. Make sure to staple through the screen into the louver vanes to help prevent them from bowing or loosening.
1-20. Cut the hole in the gable siding and install your new louver.
Tips
Setting up a work table will make lay out and assembly easier.
Use suitable lumber for this exterior building project. Western cedar privacy fence boards have an attractive rough sawn surface and are weather resistant and light weight making them a good choice, but treated pine can be used for the frame securing it to the gable for strength.
A compound miter saw, table saw, and pneumatic nailer make the job easier.
Warnings
Secure parts with strong fasteners to prevent failure and a potential leak into your structure.
Use appropriate personal protective devices using power tools.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Measure the gable to decide how large a vent you can put into it and to determine the pitch of the roof if you want your vent to match it.\\nThis article will describe construction of one that fits the center of the gable underneath the roof flashing.\\n1-2. Figure out how much lumber you will need and what type you will use.\\nRough sawn cedar is used in the images here for durability and appearance, but any weather resistant lumber can be used. If you want to get exact material requirements, you may need to produce a scale drawing with specific nominal dimension lumber lengths and sizes.\\n1-3. Assemble other tools and materials you will use for the project.\\nSee Things You'll Need for tools and other items, below. A table saw, a work table, a compound miter saw, and a finish nailer are very helpful for the project.\\n1-4. Lay out the shape and size of your vent on a flat work table or sheet of plywood.\\nDrawing it here to scale will allow for determining accurate lengths and angles, and to help you position the pieces together for fastening.\\n1-5. Rip the louver boards on a bevel.\\n22.5 degrees is generally enough, but 30 or even 45 degrees may be preferred. If you measure carefully and cut with a table saw, you should be able to get two vanes from each board, assuming you are using 1X6 cedar fence boards. These will be the stock cut for vanes later.\\n1-6. Cut the face frame (1X4 treated southern yellow pine in images, used for strength, not appearance) to the sizes and angles established from your layout.\\nA miter saw is helpful in getting accurate angle cuts.\\n1-7. Assemble the face frame using finish nails or screws, then test fit on the gable where it will be installed.\\nYou may want to scribe the inside dimension while doing this to make cutting the hole in the siding easier later on.\\n1-8. Cut the louver vane frame, again, using the layout for lengths and angles.\\nThe frame should be at least ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) deeper than the width of your vanes to make sure it doesn't leak.\\n1-9. Attach the vane frame to the face frame, caulking the seam with a waterproof sealant and using rust resistant wood screws.\\n\\n1-10. Cut a compound angle on one end of a piece of the vane stock ripped earlier.\\nThe width angle will be 45 degrees, the bevel should be about 30 degrees, with both long points facing the same direction and opposite the direction of the bevel on the edge of the stock.\\n1-11. Place the stock so it fits within the vane frame to determine the overall length of this first vane.\\nYou can check the fit of the angles approximately at this time but until the opposite end is cut, it isn't possible to do exactly.\\n1-12. Mark the approximate length of the vane, and cut it an inch or so longer than needed to allow for angle adjustments when it is fit into position.\\n\\n1-13. Try the vane when it cut to see how well the angles fit.\\nMake scribed adjustments and check the angles on the saw so later cuts on the next vanes will all be the same.\\n1-14. Mark the frame about 3 inches (7.6 cm) higher up and measure the difference in length form you longest vane to this one.\\nIf it is ten inches shorter, you can reduce the length of subsequent vanes by the same amount to space them equally without measuring each one.\\n1-15. Cut all the vanes needed to complete the louver.\\nMake sure each angle is cut so it faces the same way in relation to other angles and sort them by length.\\n1-16. Begin installing the vanes working from the shortest (top) to the longest, nailing each end, and keeping the vanes flush with the bottom (back) of the face frame so insect screening can be stapled to them later.\\n\\n1-17. Turn the louver over to complete nailing from the back side where the ends are more easily accessed.\\nUse a finish nailer with corrosion resistant nails or corrosion resistant screws and a screw gun depending on your preference. Remember, the louver will be exposed to weather conditions, so it should be built securely to prevent wind damage that will result in leaks into your building.\\n1-18. Caulk, then paint or stain the louver if desired.\\n\\n1-19. Place the louver on the table with the back up, and stretch the aluminum insect screen on it.\\nStaple it in place with ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) galvanized staples. Make sure to staple through the screen into the louver vanes to help prevent them from bowing or loosening.\\n1-20. Cut the hole in the gable siding and install your new louver.\\n\\nTips\\nSetting up a work table will make lay out and assembly easier.\\nUse suitable lumber for this exterior building project. Western cedar privacy fence boards have an attractive rough sawn surface and are weather resistant and light weight making them a good choice, but treated pine can be used for the frame securing it to the gable for strength.\\nA compound miter saw, table saw, and pneumatic nailer make the job easier.\\nWarnings\\nSecure parts with strong fasteners to prevent failure and a potential leak into your structure.\\nUse appropriate personal protective devices using power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Although you can buy manufactured gable vents, you might want to build your own wooden vent that matches your home or building's exterior. This article will show you how it can be done.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the gable to decide how large a vent you can put into it and to determine the pitch of the roof if you want your vent to match it.\", \"描述\": \"This article will describe construction of one that fits the center of the gable underneath the roof flashing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Figure out how much lumber you will need and what type you will use.\", \"描述\": \"Rough sawn cedar is used in the images here for durability and appearance, but any weather resistant lumber can be used. If you want to get exact material requirements, you may need to produce a scale drawing with specific nominal dimension lumber lengths and sizes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble other tools and materials you will use for the project.\", \"描述\": \"See Things You'll Need for tools and other items, below. A table saw, a work table, a compound miter saw, and a finish nailer are very helpful for the project.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay out the shape and size of your vent on a flat work table or sheet of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Drawing it here to scale will allow for determining accurate lengths and angles, and to help you position the pieces together for fastening.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Rip the louver boards on a bevel.\", \"描述\": \"22.5 degrees is generally enough, but 30 or even 45 degrees may be preferred. If you measure carefully and cut with a table saw, you should be able to get two vanes from each board, assuming you are using 1X6 cedar fence boards. These will be the stock cut for vanes later.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the face frame (1X4 treated southern yellow pine in images, used for strength, not appearance) to the sizes and angles established from your layout.\", \"描述\": \"A miter saw is helpful in getting accurate angle cuts.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assemble the face frame using finish nails or screws, then test fit on the gable where it will be installed.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to scribe the inside dimension while doing this to make cutting the hole in the siding easier later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut the louver vane frame, again, using the layout for lengths and angles.\", \"描述\": \"The frame should be at least ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) deeper than the width of your vanes to make sure it doesn't leak.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the vane frame to the face frame, caulking the seam with a waterproof sealant and using rust resistant wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut a compound angle on one end of a piece of the vane stock ripped earlier.\", \"描述\": \"The width angle will be 45 degrees, the bevel should be about 30 degrees, with both long points facing the same direction and opposite the direction of the bevel on the edge of the stock.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Place the stock so it fits within the vane frame to determine the overall length of this first vane.\", \"描述\": \"You can check the fit of the angles approximately at this time but until the opposite end is cut, it isn't possible to do exactly.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Mark the approximate length of the vane, and cut it an inch or so longer than needed to allow for angle adjustments when it is fit into position.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Try the vane when it cut to see how well the angles fit.\", \"描述\": \"Make scribed adjustments and check the angles on the saw so later cuts on the next vanes will all be the same.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Mark the frame about 3 inches (7.6 cm) higher up and measure the difference in length form you longest vane to this one.\", \"描述\": \"If it is ten inches shorter, you can reduce the length of subsequent vanes by the same amount to space them equally without measuring each one.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Cut all the vanes needed to complete the louver.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure each angle is cut so it faces the same way in relation to other angles and sort them by length.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Begin installing the vanes working from the shortest (top) to the longest, nailing each end, and keeping the vanes flush with the bottom (back) of the face frame so insect screening can be stapled to them later.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Turn the louver over to complete nailing from the back side where the ends are more easily accessed.\", \"描述\": \"Use a finish nailer with corrosion resistant nails or corrosion resistant screws and a screw gun depending on your preference. Remember, the louver will be exposed to weather conditions, so it should be built securely to prevent wind damage that will result in leaks into your building.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Caulk, then paint or stain the louver if desired.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Place the louver on the table with the back up, and stretch the aluminum insect screen on it.\", \"描述\": \"Staple it in place with ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) galvanized staples. Make sure to staple through the screen into the louver vanes to help prevent them from bowing or loosening.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Cut the hole in the gable siding and install your new louver.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Setting up a work table will make lay out and assembly easier.\\n\", \"Use suitable lumber for this exterior building project. Western cedar privacy fence boards have an attractive rough sawn surface and are weather resistant and light weight making them a good choice, but treated pine can be used for the frame securing it to the gable for strength.\\n\", \"A compound miter saw, table saw, and pneumatic nailer make the job easier.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Secure parts with strong fasteners to prevent failure and a potential leak into your structure.\\n\", \"Use appropriate personal protective devices using power tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,632 |
How to Build a Wooden Planter Box
|
1. Sizing and Cutting the Wood
1-1. Decide how large (or small) you want your planter box to be.
Your decision should be based on how many plants you want to have in each planter, as well as the size of the area where you will be putting your planter. For this article, we will build a smaller box that is about 4 feet by 2 feet (121.9 by 60.9cm).
1-2. Purchase your wood.
Untreated wood or cedar will work well for this project as they are both easy to work with and can hold up against the natural elements your planter will be exposed to. For a small 4x2 ft (121.9x60.9 cm) planter, you can buy a 12-foot (365.76-cm) board, which you will cut down to form the sides of the planter. The width should be at least 10 inches (24 cm).You will also need a piece that will act as the bottom or floor of the planter if your planter is going to be used on a deck or similar surface. If the box will be over soil, you can place a layer of flattened cardboard boxes on the bottom to act as a weed barrier.
Pressure-treated lumber contains chemicals that will kill plants in the box and can things like arsenic to your food if you are growing vegetables. A safe alternative is using ACQ-treated wood, a process which does not use any toxic chemicals.
1-3. Cut the wood down to the right sizes.
Use a measuring tape to measure out each side. Mark the places where you will make your cut with a pen or pencil. Use an electric saw or standard hand saw to cut the pieces to size (two 2 foot boards and two 4 foot boards), taking care to make the cuts as straight as possible.
If you do not have a saw of any kind, or prefer to not make the cuts yourself, you can ask the workers where you purchased your wood to cut it down to the measurements you need. You may need to pay a small fee, but some lumber and hardware stores will cut your planks down to size for free.
2. Attaching the Boards
2-1. Create pilot holes in two of the boards.
Pilot holes are holes drilled into the wood to ensure that the wood won’t splinter when you insert the screws into it. You only need to do this on the two end boards (the shorter boards). You should make three pilot holes, 3/4 inch (1.91 cm) from the end edge of the board. The middle hole should be centered in the middle of the width of the board.
2-2. Fasten the boards using galvanized screws.
Galvanized screws are better for outdoor planters because the galvanized metal can stand up to the elements and will not rust. Line the boards up so that the boards with the pilot holes are positioned on the outside corners. Use a drill and drill bit to make sure that each screw goes through each hole and into the adjoining board.
You can also use a screwdriver, rather than a drill and drill bit.
2-3. Measure the inside length and width to determine the size of the bottom of the box.
With these measurements, cut your bottom board using a saw. Place the board inside the box. Use a drill and galvanized screws to attach the bottom board through the sides of the box.
Remember, this is only necessary if you plan to put the planter on a deck or similar surface.
2-4. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the box.
Turn your now fully-formed box over and use your drill to create four or five drainage holes in the bottom of the box. These holes are very important, as most plants will develop diseases if they get ‘soggy feet’, meaning that their roots sit in very wet soil for too long.
If you have constructed a much larger planter box, you should consider adding a few more drainage holes.
Again, if your planter will be over soil, this is not necessary. Simply use flattened cardboard as the bottom of your box.
3. Adding the Finishing Touches
3-1. Place a layer of nylon or vinyl screen inside the planter.
Doing this will protect the wood of your planter. Cut the screen so that it is the same size as the board you used for the bottom of the planter. Lay it in the bottom of the planter and fix in place with some small nails. Make sure that you remember to drill drainage holes in the screen that line up with the drainage holes in the bottom board if your box has a bottom.
3-2. Sand any rough edges.
Doing this will give your box a nice finished look, but it is not absolutely necessary to do. Take a sander or a piece of sandpaper and run it along the edges and corners of the box. Run it along the sides of the boards to vanquish any potential splinters.
3-3. Paint, prime, or stain the outside of your planter.
Pick out some paint that matches your backyard or home’s decor, or stain your planter to really bring out the wood’s colors. You can also choose to leave your wood alone, as cedar is a beautiful wood all by itself.
Do not treat the inside of your planter, as this may contaminate the soil and your plants. Instead, use a plastic liner (with holes) to protect the wood.
3-4. Add a thin layer of gravel, then add the compost or potting soil.
The gravel will help to drain the planter box. The type of soil or compost you use will depend on the types of plants or flowers you intend to add to your planter box.
3-5. Add your flowers, plants, or whatever seeds you plan to cultivate.
Don't forget to water! For ideas on types of flowers and plants you can add to a planter box, click here.
3-6. Enjoy your new planter box!
Tips
You can take these plans and scale them down for a window box.
Warnings
As always, when working with tools, don't forget to use the necessary eye and hand protection.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Sizing and Cutting the Wood\\n1-1. Decide how large (or small) you want your planter box to be.\\nYour decision should be based on how many plants you want to have in each planter, as well as the size of the area where you will be putting your planter. For this article, we will build a smaller box that is about 4 feet by 2 feet (121.9 by 60.9cm).\\n1-2. Purchase your wood.\\nUntreated wood or cedar will work well for this project as they are both easy to work with and can hold up against the natural elements your planter will be exposed to. For a small 4x2 ft (121.9x60.9 cm) planter, you can buy a 12-foot (365.76-cm) board, which you will cut down to form the sides of the planter. The width should be at least 10 inches (24 cm).You will also need a piece that will act as the bottom or floor of the planter if your planter is going to be used on a deck or similar surface. If the box will be over soil, you can place a layer of flattened cardboard boxes on the bottom to act as a weed barrier.\\nPressure-treated lumber contains chemicals that will kill plants in the box and can things like arsenic to your food if you are growing vegetables. A safe alternative is using ACQ-treated wood, a process which does not use any toxic chemicals.\\n1-3. Cut the wood down to the right sizes.\\nUse a measuring tape to measure out each side. Mark the places where you will make your cut with a pen or pencil. Use an electric saw or standard hand saw to cut the pieces to size (two 2 foot boards and two 4 foot boards), taking care to make the cuts as straight as possible.\\nIf you do not have a saw of any kind, or prefer to not make the cuts yourself, you can ask the workers where you purchased your wood to cut it down to the measurements you need. You may need to pay a small fee, but some lumber and hardware stores will cut your planks down to size for free.\\n2. Attaching the Boards\\n2-1. Create pilot holes in two of the boards.\\nPilot holes are holes drilled into the wood to ensure that the wood won’t splinter when you insert the screws into it. You only need to do this on the two end boards (the shorter boards). You should make three pilot holes, 3/4 inch (1.91 cm) from the end edge of the board. The middle hole should be centered in the middle of the width of the board.\\n2-2. Fasten the boards using galvanized screws.\\nGalvanized screws are better for outdoor planters because the galvanized metal can stand up to the elements and will not rust. Line the boards up so that the boards with the pilot holes are positioned on the outside corners. Use a drill and drill bit to make sure that each screw goes through each hole and into the adjoining board.\\nYou can also use a screwdriver, rather than a drill and drill bit.\\n2-3. Measure the inside length and width to determine the size of the bottom of the box.\\nWith these measurements, cut your bottom board using a saw. Place the board inside the box. Use a drill and galvanized screws to attach the bottom board through the sides of the box.\\nRemember, this is only necessary if you plan to put the planter on a deck or similar surface.\\n2-4. Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the box.\\nTurn your now fully-formed box over and use your drill to create four or five drainage holes in the bottom of the box. These holes are very important, as most plants will develop diseases if they get ‘soggy feet’, meaning that their roots sit in very wet soil for too long.\\nIf you have constructed a much larger planter box, you should consider adding a few more drainage holes.\\nAgain, if your planter will be over soil, this is not necessary. Simply use flattened cardboard as the bottom of your box.\\n3. Adding the Finishing Touches\\n3-1. Place a layer of nylon or vinyl screen inside the planter.\\nDoing this will protect the wood of your planter. Cut the screen so that it is the same size as the board you used for the bottom of the planter. Lay it in the bottom of the planter and fix in place with some small nails. Make sure that you remember to drill drainage holes in the screen that line up with the drainage holes in the bottom board if your box has a bottom.\\n3-2. Sand any rough edges.\\nDoing this will give your box a nice finished look, but it is not absolutely necessary to do. Take a sander or a piece of sandpaper and run it along the edges and corners of the box. Run it along the sides of the boards to vanquish any potential splinters.\\n3-3. Paint, prime, or stain the outside of your planter.\\nPick out some paint that matches your backyard or home’s decor, or stain your planter to really bring out the wood’s colors. You can also choose to leave your wood alone, as cedar is a beautiful wood all by itself.\\nDo not treat the inside of your planter, as this may contaminate the soil and your plants. Instead, use a plastic liner (with holes) to protect the wood.\\n3-4. Add a thin layer of gravel, then add the compost or potting soil.\\nThe gravel will help to drain the planter box. The type of soil or compost you use will depend on the types of plants or flowers you intend to add to your planter box.\\n3-5. Add your flowers, plants, or whatever seeds you plan to cultivate.\\nDon't forget to water! For ideas on types of flowers and plants you can add to a planter box, click here.\\n3-6. Enjoy your new planter box!\\n\\nTips\\nYou can take these plans and scale them down for a window box.\\nWarnings\\nAs always, when working with tools, don't forget to use the necessary eye and hand protection.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want to exercise your green thumb, but don't have the space? Maybe you have the space, but your soil is too harsh to be cultivated easily? A wooden planter box is a cheap, easy, and effective way to solve these problems! Planter boxes can be made any shape and size, and out of a variety of materials. You can learn how to build one of these planters quickly and with little damage to your wallet.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sizing and Cutting the Wood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide how large (or small) you want your planter box to be.\", \"描述\": \"Your decision should be based on how many plants you want to have in each planter, as well as the size of the area where you will be putting your planter. For this article, we will build a smaller box that is about 4 feet by 2 feet (121.9 by 60.9cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase your wood.\", \"描述\": \"Untreated wood or cedar will work well for this project as they are both easy to work with and can hold up against the natural elements your planter will be exposed to. For a small 4x2 ft (121.9x60.9 cm) planter, you can buy a 12-foot (365.76-cm) board, which you will cut down to form the sides of the planter. The width should be at least 10 inches (24 cm).You will also need a piece that will act as the bottom or floor of the planter if your planter is going to be used on a deck or similar surface. If the box will be over soil, you can place a layer of flattened cardboard boxes on the bottom to act as a weed barrier.\\nPressure-treated lumber contains chemicals that will kill plants in the box and can things like arsenic to your food if you are growing vegetables. A safe alternative is using ACQ-treated wood, a process which does not use any toxic chemicals.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood down to the right sizes.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to measure out each side. Mark the places where you will make your cut with a pen or pencil. Use an electric saw or standard hand saw to cut the pieces to size (two 2 foot boards and two 4 foot boards), taking care to make the cuts as straight as possible.\\nIf you do not have a saw of any kind, or prefer to not make the cuts yourself, you can ask the workers where you purchased your wood to cut it down to the measurements you need. You may need to pay a small fee, but some lumber and hardware stores will cut your planks down to size for free.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Boards\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create pilot holes in two of the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Pilot holes are holes drilled into the wood to ensure that the wood won’t splinter when you insert the screws into it. You only need to do this on the two end boards (the shorter boards). You should make three pilot holes, 3/4 inch (1.91 cm) from the end edge of the board. The middle hole should be centered in the middle of the width of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the boards using galvanized screws.\", \"描述\": \"Galvanized screws are better for outdoor planters because the galvanized metal can stand up to the elements and will not rust. Line the boards up so that the boards with the pilot holes are positioned on the outside corners. Use a drill and drill bit to make sure that each screw goes through each hole and into the adjoining board.\\nYou can also use a screwdriver, rather than a drill and drill bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the inside length and width to determine the size of the bottom of the box.\", \"描述\": \"With these measurements, cut your bottom board using a saw. Place the board inside the box. Use a drill and galvanized screws to attach the bottom board through the sides of the box.\\nRemember, this is only necessary if you plan to put the planter on a deck or similar surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the box.\", \"描述\": \"Turn your now fully-formed box over and use your drill to create four or five drainage holes in the bottom of the box. These holes are very important, as most plants will develop diseases if they get ‘soggy feet’, meaning that their roots sit in very wet soil for too long.\\nIf you have constructed a much larger planter box, you should consider adding a few more drainage holes.\\nAgain, if your planter will be over soil, this is not necessary. Simply use flattened cardboard as the bottom of your box.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a layer of nylon or vinyl screen inside the planter.\", \"描述\": \"Doing this will protect the wood of your planter. Cut the screen so that it is the same size as the board you used for the bottom of the planter. Lay it in the bottom of the planter and fix in place with some small nails. Make sure that you remember to drill drainage holes in the screen that line up with the drainage holes in the bottom board if your box has a bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand any rough edges.\", \"描述\": \"Doing this will give your box a nice finished look, but it is not absolutely necessary to do. Take a sander or a piece of sandpaper and run it along the edges and corners of the box. Run it along the sides of the boards to vanquish any potential splinters.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint, prime, or stain the outside of your planter.\", \"描述\": \"Pick out some paint that matches your backyard or home’s decor, or stain your planter to really bring out the wood’s colors. You can also choose to leave your wood alone, as cedar is a beautiful wood all by itself.\\nDo not treat the inside of your planter, as this may contaminate the soil and your plants. Instead, use a plastic liner (with holes) to protect the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a thin layer of gravel, then add the compost or potting soil.\", \"描述\": \"The gravel will help to drain the planter box. The type of soil or compost you use will depend on the types of plants or flowers you intend to add to your planter box.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add your flowers, plants, or whatever seeds you plan to cultivate.\", \"描述\": \"Don't forget to water! For ideas on types of flowers and plants you can add to a planter box, click here.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Enjoy your new planter box!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can take these plans and scale them down for a window box.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"As always, when working with tools, don't forget to use the necessary eye and hand protection.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,633 |
How to Build a Yu Gi Oh! Deck That Suits You
|
1. Steps
1-1. Decide your playing style.
This is important, as it determines how people would look at you as a duelist. Are you a rash duelist who would rapidly summon, attack and activate cards? Or are you the deep thinker who would analyze your hand and field before making a move? Or maybe the duelist that would remove cards from play so your opponent cannot use them again? Considering these would help you choose a deck archetype.
1-2. Choose your deck type - a themed deck, or one that follows a specific theme of cards.
Never have a deck with too many random cards in it. If so, you will not be drawing parts of combos. Also, make sure you have around 40 cards in your deck. The most you should have is 42 even though the maximum is 60 cards.
The best decks focus around an archetype - a group of cards with similar names and mechanics who support each other. Decks focusing around an attribute or type aren't very good. Neither are most decks with multiple archetypes, though some mesh well.
There are many different archetypes, and each has many different styles of being used. For example, the main strategy of a Monarch deck is to keep tribute summoning more powerful monsters, and to activate effects while doing so, but that is only one of the archetypes. There are many more to discover.
1-3. Choose your monsters.
Each deck should have around 12-18 monsters, but the number will vary depending on the deck you play. Use low-level effect monsters that support your archetype and have helpful effects in your deck. Most decks do not use normal monsters, since they do nothing on their own, but they have some good support and are included in decks built around them.
1-4. Control quantity - You should have:
LV 1-4: Around 12
LV 5-6: Around 2
LV 7s and higher: Never more than 2, depending on the deck. Some decks can and need to be all high-level monsters. These decks are usually able to summon their monsters some other way than tributing. For example, decks like Malefics and Infernoids can special summon all of their high level monsters. For many other decks, especially ones that rely on the extra deck, it is not recommended to include any high level monsters that you can't special summon.
1-5. Choose your spells.
Most decks will have around 12-15 spells. Around 1/3 of these spells should be for monster support/combos. The rest would be attributed to favorites and staples. Add them into your list once you've decided. Make sure you have good spells for S/T destruction, monster protection, and monster destruction.
1-6. Choose your traps.
You should have around 4-8 of these. Some decks will require more, and some less. Among these traps, 3-5 should be support for your deck type, and the rest should be staples like Mirror Force, Solemn Warning, and Bottomless Trap Hole. Think about your deck's weaknesses. For example, if your deck has weak monsters, use attack protection like Mirror Force and Dimensional Prison. If you play an aggro deck and are weak to traps, run stuff like Trap Stun.
If you're running a high monster count, such as in Dragon Rulers or Mermails, 3-6 traps should be enough. Some decks run no traps, and do fine. A good choice for a deck that relies solely on monsters would be Royal Decree.
1-7. Fill out your Extra Deck.
Most decks can use Xyz monsters. If your deck includes at least 3 easily summoned monsters of a certain level, you can add a couple of Xyz monsters of that Rank. Synchro and Fusion monsters are more specialized - Synchro monsters can be added if you have at least one tuner, and Fusion monsters are only used in specialized decks built around them.
1-8. Lay out your cards and make sure that they work together well.
It's no use if you have cards that do not work together well. List the cards that you need to improve your deck and make it your business to buy those cards. Watch the cards your common opponents play. Also add some generic cards in your side deck that you can use later on, in between duels. Try looking up your deck type online to get tips or ideas from other people's decks.
1-9. Buy cards.
Now that you have planned out the deck you want, you can go out and get the cards you will need for it. Structure decks and Starter decks are good ways to start off. They are pre-built, and contain cards that fit together and good support, but could take some improvement. Booster packs have a variety of random cards, which won't necessarily work with your deck, but you could get some really good cards. You can also trade with friends and people at your local card shops, or buy singles online. If you are looking for a specific card, it will always be easier and cheaper to buy it individually rather than go hunting in booster packs for it.
1-10. Start playing with your deck.
Play against friends and local players to learn the strengths and weaknesses of your deck. After a few games, you will have a better idea of how your deck runs, and may need to take out some cards that don't work for you. No deck is perfect, so you will always be modifying and improving your deck.
1-11. Refrain from using cards that are forbidden.
An example is Pot of Greed. This card is known to be too strong for normal competitive play, which would make your deck sort of 'cheating'. This card can also cause fights with other duelists.
Remember to never use forbidden cards in tournaments. You could use them when dueling with a friend but he/she might not accept the offer.
1-12. Update your deck!
Wait for the newest booster packs to release and if the new cards suit your needs, buy a couple of packs to test your luck. Also, research older cards that will be good in your deck.
Tips
Duel as often as possible. You will learn more about the game, your deck, and yourself. Practice really does make perfect.
Good decks don't make a good duelist. Good skills AND good decks make a good duelist. Practice and practice some more.
Some cards are good against certain decks, but useless against others. Keep these cards in your Side Deck so they won't be dead draws.
Warnings
Be careful of purchasing cards, especially online. You may end up with fake cards, which won't do much good in duels or tournaments. When buying cards try to find out if the seller is reputable or inspect the cards/packaging.
Never resort to cheating. Don't steal cards, stealing is never the way to go. If you steal, people will eventually find out that their cards were stolen. Also people will never take you as a good duelist if you steal so don't do it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:17",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide your playing style.\\nThis is important, as it determines how people would look at you as a duelist. Are you a rash duelist who would rapidly summon, attack and activate cards? Or are you the deep thinker who would analyze your hand and field before making a move? Or maybe the duelist that would remove cards from play so your opponent cannot use them again? Considering these would help you choose a deck archetype.\\n1-2. Choose your deck type - a themed deck, or one that follows a specific theme of cards.\\nNever have a deck with too many random cards in it. If so, you will not be drawing parts of combos. Also, make sure you have around 40 cards in your deck. The most you should have is 42 even though the maximum is 60 cards.\\nThe best decks focus around an archetype - a group of cards with similar names and mechanics who support each other. Decks focusing around an attribute or type aren't very good. Neither are most decks with multiple archetypes, though some mesh well.\\nThere are many different archetypes, and each has many different styles of being used. For example, the main strategy of a Monarch deck is to keep tribute summoning more powerful monsters, and to activate effects while doing so, but that is only one of the archetypes. There are many more to discover.\\n1-3. Choose your monsters.\\nEach deck should have around 12-18 monsters, but the number will vary depending on the deck you play. Use low-level effect monsters that support your archetype and have helpful effects in your deck. Most decks do not use normal monsters, since they do nothing on their own, but they have some good support and are included in decks built around them.\\n1-4. Control quantity - You should have:\\nLV 1-4: Around 12\\nLV 5-6: Around 2\\nLV 7s and higher: Never more than 2, depending on the deck. Some decks can and need to be all high-level monsters. These decks are usually able to summon their monsters some other way than tributing. For example, decks like Malefics and Infernoids can special summon all of their high level monsters. For many other decks, especially ones that rely on the extra deck, it is not recommended to include any high level monsters that you can't special summon.\\n1-5. Choose your spells.\\nMost decks will have around 12-15 spells. Around 1/3 of these spells should be for monster support/combos. The rest would be attributed to favorites and staples. Add them into your list once you've decided. Make sure you have good spells for S/T destruction, monster protection, and monster destruction.\\n1-6. Choose your traps.\\nYou should have around 4-8 of these. Some decks will require more, and some less. Among these traps, 3-5 should be support for your deck type, and the rest should be staples like Mirror Force, Solemn Warning, and Bottomless Trap Hole. Think about your deck's weaknesses. For example, if your deck has weak monsters, use attack protection like Mirror Force and Dimensional Prison. If you play an aggro deck and are weak to traps, run stuff like Trap Stun.\\nIf you're running a high monster count, such as in Dragon Rulers or Mermails, 3-6 traps should be enough. Some decks run no traps, and do fine. A good choice for a deck that relies solely on monsters would be Royal Decree.\\n1-7. Fill out your Extra Deck.\\nMost decks can use Xyz monsters. If your deck includes at least 3 easily summoned monsters of a certain level, you can add a couple of Xyz monsters of that Rank. Synchro and Fusion monsters are more specialized - Synchro monsters can be added if you have at least one tuner, and Fusion monsters are only used in specialized decks built around them.\\n1-8. Lay out your cards and make sure that they work together well.\\nIt's no use if you have cards that do not work together well. List the cards that you need to improve your deck and make it your business to buy those cards. Watch the cards your common opponents play. Also add some generic cards in your side deck that you can use later on, in between duels. Try looking up your deck type online to get tips or ideas from other people's decks.\\n1-9. Buy cards.\\nNow that you have planned out the deck you want, you can go out and get the cards you will need for it. Structure decks and Starter decks are good ways to start off. They are pre-built, and contain cards that fit together and good support, but could take some improvement. Booster packs have a variety of random cards, which won't necessarily work with your deck, but you could get some really good cards. You can also trade with friends and people at your local card shops, or buy singles online. If you are looking for a specific card, it will always be easier and cheaper to buy it individually rather than go hunting in booster packs for it.\\n1-10. Start playing with your deck.\\nPlay against friends and local players to learn the strengths and weaknesses of your deck. After a few games, you will have a better idea of how your deck runs, and may need to take out some cards that don't work for you. No deck is perfect, so you will always be modifying and improving your deck.\\n1-11. Refrain from using cards that are forbidden.\\nAn example is Pot of Greed. This card is known to be too strong for normal competitive play, which would make your deck sort of 'cheating'. This card can also cause fights with other duelists.\\nRemember to never use forbidden cards in tournaments. You could use them when dueling with a friend but he/she might not accept the offer.\\n1-12. Update your deck!\\nWait for the newest booster packs to release and if the new cards suit your needs, buy a couple of packs to test your luck. Also, research older cards that will be good in your deck.\\nTips\\nDuel as often as possible. You will learn more about the game, your deck, and yourself. Practice really does make perfect.\\nGood decks don't make a good duelist. Good skills AND good decks make a good duelist. Practice and practice some more.\\nSome cards are good against certain decks, but useless against others. Keep these cards in your Side Deck so they won't be dead draws.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful of purchasing cards, especially online. You may end up with fake cards, which won't do much good in duels or tournaments. When buying cards try to find out if the seller is reputable or inspect the cards/packaging.\\nNever resort to cheating. Don't steal cards, stealing is never the way to go. If you steal, people will eventually find out that their cards were stolen. Also people will never take you as a good duelist if you steal so don't do it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This guide should help you Yu Gi Oh! players to form the perfect deck for you someday. This article is written with the assumption that you already have some Yu Gi Oh! cards and have some experience in playing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide your playing style.\", \"描述\": \"This is important, as it determines how people would look at you as a duelist. Are you a rash duelist who would rapidly summon, attack and activate cards? Or are you the deep thinker who would analyze your hand and field before making a move? Or maybe the duelist that would remove cards from play so your opponent cannot use them again? Considering these would help you choose a deck archetype.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your deck type - a themed deck, or one that follows a specific theme of cards.\", \"描述\": \"Never have a deck with too many random cards in it. If so, you will not be drawing parts of combos. Also, make sure you have around 40 cards in your deck. The most you should have is 42 even though the maximum is 60 cards.\\nThe best decks focus around an archetype - a group of cards with similar names and mechanics who support each other. Decks focusing around an attribute or type aren't very good. Neither are most decks with multiple archetypes, though some mesh well.\\nThere are many different archetypes, and each has many different styles of being used. For example, the main strategy of a Monarch deck is to keep tribute summoning more powerful monsters, and to activate effects while doing so, but that is only one of the archetypes. There are many more to discover.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your monsters.\", \"描述\": \"Each deck should have around 12-18 monsters, but the number will vary depending on the deck you play. Use low-level effect monsters that support your archetype and have helpful effects in your deck. Most decks do not use normal monsters, since they do nothing on their own, but they have some good support and are included in decks built around them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Control quantity - You should have:\", \"描述\": \"LV 1-4: Around 12\\nLV 5-6: Around 2\\nLV 7s and higher: Never more than 2, depending on the deck. Some decks can and need to be all high-level monsters. These decks are usually able to summon their monsters some other way than tributing. For example, decks like Malefics and Infernoids can special summon all of their high level monsters. For many other decks, especially ones that rely on the extra deck, it is not recommended to include any high level monsters that you can't special summon.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose your spells.\", \"描述\": \"Most decks will have around 12-15 spells. Around 1/3 of these spells should be for monster support/combos. The rest would be attributed to favorites and staples. Add them into your list once you've decided. Make sure you have good spells for S/T destruction, monster protection, and monster destruction.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Choose your traps.\", \"描述\": \"You should have around 4-8 of these. Some decks will require more, and some less. Among these traps, 3-5 should be support for your deck type, and the rest should be staples like Mirror Force, Solemn Warning, and Bottomless Trap Hole. Think about your deck's weaknesses. For example, if your deck has weak monsters, use attack protection like Mirror Force and Dimensional Prison. If you play an aggro deck and are weak to traps, run stuff like Trap Stun.\\nIf you're running a high monster count, such as in Dragon Rulers or Mermails, 3-6 traps should be enough. Some decks run no traps, and do fine. A good choice for a deck that relies solely on monsters would be Royal Decree.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill out your Extra Deck.\", \"描述\": \"Most decks can use Xyz monsters. If your deck includes at least 3 easily summoned monsters of a certain level, you can add a couple of Xyz monsters of that Rank. Synchro and Fusion monsters are more specialized - Synchro monsters can be added if you have at least one tuner, and Fusion monsters are only used in specialized decks built around them.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Lay out your cards and make sure that they work together well.\", \"描述\": \"It's no use if you have cards that do not work together well. List the cards that you need to improve your deck and make it your business to buy those cards. Watch the cards your common opponents play. Also add some generic cards in your side deck that you can use later on, in between duels. Try looking up your deck type online to get tips or ideas from other people's decks.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Buy cards.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have planned out the deck you want, you can go out and get the cards you will need for it. Structure decks and Starter decks are good ways to start off. They are pre-built, and contain cards that fit together and good support, but could take some improvement. Booster packs have a variety of random cards, which won't necessarily work with your deck, but you could get some really good cards. You can also trade with friends and people at your local card shops, or buy singles online. If you are looking for a specific card, it will always be easier and cheaper to buy it individually rather than go hunting in booster packs for it.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Start playing with your deck.\", \"描述\": \"Play against friends and local players to learn the strengths and weaknesses of your deck. After a few games, you will have a better idea of how your deck runs, and may need to take out some cards that don't work for you. No deck is perfect, so you will always be modifying and improving your deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Refrain from using cards that are forbidden.\", \"描述\": \"An example is Pot of Greed. This card is known to be too strong for normal competitive play, which would make your deck sort of 'cheating'. This card can also cause fights with other duelists.\\nRemember to never use forbidden cards in tournaments. You could use them when dueling with a friend but he/she might not accept the offer.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Update your deck!\", \"描述\": \"Wait for the newest booster packs to release and if the new cards suit your needs, buy a couple of packs to test your luck. Also, research older cards that will be good in your deck.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Duel as often as possible. You will learn more about the game, your deck, and yourself. Practice really does make perfect.\\n\", \"Good decks don't make a good duelist. Good skills AND good decks make a good duelist. Practice and practice some more.\\n\", \"Some cards are good against certain decks, but useless against others. Keep these cards in your Side Deck so they won't be dead draws.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful of purchasing cards, especially online. You may end up with fake cards, which won't do much good in duels or tournaments. When buying cards try to find out if the seller is reputable or inspect the cards/packaging.\\n\", \"Never resort to cheating. Don't steal cards, stealing is never the way to go. If you steal, people will eventually find out that their cards were stolen. Also people will never take you as a good duelist if you steal so don't do it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,634 |
How to Build a Yu Gi Oh! Water Deck
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1. Steps
1-1. Buy a SD4 (Structure deck 4 Fury From The Deep).
It has most of the cards you need for a water deck; for example, Levia-Dragon Daedalus
1-2. From your Starter deck, it is highly recommended you use all 3 of your Mother Grizzly and A Legendary Ocean.
You can use your Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, Codarus, or both(Codarus is a card upcoming in Absolute Powerforce). At least 1 is recommended. Depending on the number of the above 2 cards you include, add in some Forgotten Temple of the Deep, also in Absolute Powerforce. This will count as "Umi" for Daedalus' and Codarus' effects.
1-3. Find cards that will boost any WATER deck such as Warrior of Atlantis, a versatile card you could use to search out "A legendary Ocean", and Aqua Spirit, a Special Summon monster with decent ATK and a good Control Effect.
The number of Aqua Spirit(s) should vary depending on your type of water deck, but you should always have 3 Warrior of Atlantis.
WATER decks can be used in all 3 general deck strategies: Beatdown, Control or Combo. Choose what type your WATER deck will be.
1-4. If you choose Beatdown, get some High ATK Level 5 WATER monsters like Giga Gagagigo and Terrorking Salmon, which can be summoned without tribute from A Legendary Ocean.
Use High ATK level 4 WATER monsters as well like Gemini Lancer, Abyss Soldier and Blizzard Dragon, although it has a Control Effect it still has High ATK. It's OK and actually encouraged for your Beatdown Deck to have a few Control elements and vice versa. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy. Use Spell cards that will help with Attacking or Swarming like Big Wave Small Wave or Hydro-Pressure Cannon (which will work with Level 4s from A Legendary Ocean). Generic Destruction Trap cards like Mirror Force and Sakuretsu Armor are recommended.
1-5. If you choose Control, get cards like Gora Turtle, Maryokutai, B.E.S.
Crystal Core, Nightmare Penguin and Penguin Soldier, which will all help you control the field and remove opponent's monsters. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy, although this deck will have less of these monsters than the Beatdown deck. Since most of these cards will be Low Level and Low Attack, use at least 2 Salvage, 2 Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord, and 1 Hydro Pressure Cannon. Use Gravity Bind and/or Level Limit Area B which is a must for Control Decks. Keep in mind Level Limit is Limited and Gravity Bind is Semi-Limited.
1-6. If you choose Combo, this means that you heavily rely on Levia-Dragon - Daedalus' and Codarus' Effects.
In this deck, use a high number of either or both of them. If you have mostly Codarus' in your deck, then you want Low-Level Support Cards like Salvage and Mother Grizzly to search it out. If you have mostly Levia Dragon, use Big Wave Small Wave to summon it easier and Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord to protect your weaker monsters from his effect. And if you have AT LEAST 2 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, add in an Ocean Dragon Lord - Neo-Daedalus, NO MORE than 2 because he is a "dead draw". Use 3 Forgotten Temple of the Deep, and 1 or 2 Pseudo Space to copy A Legendary Ocean.
1-7. Even if you only plan to use a Beatdown or Control-centered deck, read steps #5 - 7 to get more ideas for your deck.
WATER decks are very versatile in this way and can change their playing style to fit the situation.
1-8. It can be a good idea to collect "Shark" cards from the new show.
Shark uses a variety of strong level 3 monsters to Xyz summon. Rank 3 monsters are currently the most populated, with 7, so you have plenty of options! However, the only two water Xyz monsters are Submersible Carrier Aero Shark and Leviathan Dragon.
Tips
Many of your cards will say "If 'Umi' ...". Use A Legendary Ocean instead of Umi, NO EXCEPTIONS. A Legendary Ocean will support all your WATER monsters and lower their levels (very, very important), while Umi only can boost your Aqua, Fish and Sea Serpent types (you will have some Beast, Beast-Warrior, Machine and Even Plant types in your deck). A Legendary Ocean also counts as Umi anywhere, so you can only have a total of 3 A Legendary Ocean and Umi combined in your deck. Just get used to thinking of A Legendary Ocean as "Umi".
Some other support cards exist, like Maiden of the Aqua, Water Hazard, Armed Seahunter, or The Legendary Fisherman. While these aren't sure to help your deck and are not included in this guide, you should consider these cards when building your Water deck or playtest them. You never know when you might find a really good combo with these cards or that they really help your style of playing.
Cursed Fig is an optional tech card that when destroyed, will lock down face-down 2 Spell/Trap cards from being activated as long as it's in the graveyard. Use it in your deck if you think your deck doesn't have enough cards that destroy Spell/Trap Cards. Cursed Fig can be searched by Mother Grizzly, Salvage, and Protected by Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord.
Warnings
Remember, just because a card supports WATER monsters or Umi, doesn't make it good. One example is Deep Sea Warrior, a horrible card. Make your deck close to 40 cards, if possible.
Try not to use too many cards to boost attack, instead use more cards like Penguin Soldier or Nightmare Penguin. Normally a water deck depends on abilities to control the opponent or remove their cards, that is why A Legendary Ocean is used more for it's level-decreasing ability and the ATK boost is only a nice side-effect.
One big mistake most Beginner duelists do is they use a structure deck as-is and don't edit it. It is bad with Structure deck 4 because it only has 1 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus and 1 Neo-Daedalus. Do NOT use Neo-Daedalus if you only have 1 Levia Dragon in your deck. He can only be summoned by contributing Levia Dragon (Some Neo-Daedalus in the structure deck are misprints, find the real effect at yugioh.wikia.org). If you draw him when you don't have Levia Dragon, he is useless until you get a Levia-Dragon.
Organize the cards in your WATER deck by Monster, Spell and Trap and see the Monster to Spell/Trap ratio comes close to 1:1. There should be slightly more spells than traps in this deck.
Always be sure you have an empty or bad hand before you use Neo-Daedalus's ability. It can still help even if your opponent has a lot of Life Points left because the chances are, whatever your opponent draws won't help him and you can always summon other monsters to attack. But if you have a lot of good cards in your hand use those first.
Organize the cards in your WATER deck by these categories: Spell/Trap removal or prevention, Monster removal, Special Summoning, Monster protection, Spell/Trap protection, searching, Monster/spell/trap recovery from graveyard, High ATK/ATK boosters, attack protection/prevention, tribute monsters, Low-level monsters. There is no set ratio for these categories, this just helps you organize your deck better and decide which cards to add/remove.
When deciding if a card is good for a WATER deck, ask yourself these questions:
Does it help my other cards?
Does it center around my style of playing?
Do other cards in my deck help it/strengthen it/protect it?
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Buy a SD4 (Structure deck 4 Fury From The Deep).\\nIt has most of the cards you need for a water deck; for example, Levia-Dragon Daedalus\\n1-2. From your Starter deck, it is highly recommended you use all 3 of your Mother Grizzly and A Legendary Ocean.\\nYou can use your Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, Codarus, or both(Codarus is a card upcoming in Absolute Powerforce). At least 1 is recommended. Depending on the number of the above 2 cards you include, add in some Forgotten Temple of the Deep, also in Absolute Powerforce. This will count as \\\"Umi\\\" for Daedalus' and Codarus' effects.\\n1-3. Find cards that will boost any WATER deck such as Warrior of Atlantis, a versatile card you could use to search out \\\"A legendary Ocean\\\", and Aqua Spirit, a Special Summon monster with decent ATK and a good Control Effect.\\nThe number of Aqua Spirit(s) should vary depending on your type of water deck, but you should always have 3 Warrior of Atlantis.\\nWATER decks can be used in all 3 general deck strategies: Beatdown, Control or Combo. Choose what type your WATER deck will be.\\n1-4. If you choose Beatdown, get some High ATK Level 5 WATER monsters like Giga Gagagigo and Terrorking Salmon, which can be summoned without tribute from A Legendary Ocean.\\nUse High ATK level 4 WATER monsters as well like Gemini Lancer, Abyss Soldier and Blizzard Dragon, although it has a Control Effect it still has High ATK. It's OK and actually encouraged for your Beatdown Deck to have a few Control elements and vice versa. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy. Use Spell cards that will help with Attacking or Swarming like Big Wave Small Wave or Hydro-Pressure Cannon (which will work with Level 4s from A Legendary Ocean). Generic Destruction Trap cards like Mirror Force and Sakuretsu Armor are recommended.\\n1-5. If you choose Control, get cards like Gora Turtle, Maryokutai, B.E.S.\\nCrystal Core, Nightmare Penguin and Penguin Soldier, which will all help you control the field and remove opponent's monsters. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy, although this deck will have less of these monsters than the Beatdown deck. Since most of these cards will be Low Level and Low Attack, use at least 2 Salvage, 2 Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord, and 1 Hydro Pressure Cannon. Use Gravity Bind and/or Level Limit Area B which is a must for Control Decks. Keep in mind Level Limit is Limited and Gravity Bind is Semi-Limited.\\n1-6. If you choose Combo, this means that you heavily rely on Levia-Dragon - Daedalus' and Codarus' Effects.\\nIn this deck, use a high number of either or both of them. If you have mostly Codarus' in your deck, then you want Low-Level Support Cards like Salvage and Mother Grizzly to search it out. If you have mostly Levia Dragon, use Big Wave Small Wave to summon it easier and Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord to protect your weaker monsters from his effect. And if you have AT LEAST 2 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, add in an Ocean Dragon Lord - Neo-Daedalus, NO MORE than 2 because he is a \\\"dead draw\\\". Use 3 Forgotten Temple of the Deep, and 1 or 2 Pseudo Space to copy A Legendary Ocean.\\n1-7. Even if you only plan to use a Beatdown or Control-centered deck, read steps #5 - 7 to get more ideas for your deck.\\nWATER decks are very versatile in this way and can change their playing style to fit the situation.\\n1-8. It can be a good idea to collect \\\"Shark\\\" cards from the new show.\\nShark uses a variety of strong level 3 monsters to Xyz summon. Rank 3 monsters are currently the most populated, with 7, so you have plenty of options! However, the only two water Xyz monsters are Submersible Carrier Aero Shark and Leviathan Dragon.\\nTips\\nMany of your cards will say \\\"If 'Umi' ...\\\". Use A Legendary Ocean instead of Umi, NO EXCEPTIONS. A Legendary Ocean will support all your WATER monsters and lower their levels (very, very important), while Umi only can boost your Aqua, Fish and Sea Serpent types (you will have some Beast, Beast-Warrior, Machine and Even Plant types in your deck). A Legendary Ocean also counts as Umi anywhere, so you can only have a total of 3 A Legendary Ocean and Umi combined in your deck. Just get used to thinking of A Legendary Ocean as \\\"Umi\\\".\\nSome other support cards exist, like Maiden of the Aqua, Water Hazard, Armed Seahunter, or The Legendary Fisherman. While these aren't sure to help your deck and are not included in this guide, you should consider these cards when building your Water deck or playtest them. You never know when you might find a really good combo with these cards or that they really help your style of playing.\\nCursed Fig is an optional tech card that when destroyed, will lock down face-down 2 Spell/Trap cards from being activated as long as it's in the graveyard. Use it in your deck if you think your deck doesn't have enough cards that destroy Spell/Trap Cards. Cursed Fig can be searched by Mother Grizzly, Salvage, and Protected by Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord.\\nWarnings\\nRemember, just because a card supports WATER monsters or Umi, doesn't make it good. One example is Deep Sea Warrior, a horrible card. Make your deck close to 40 cards, if possible.\\nTry not to use too many cards to boost attack, instead use more cards like Penguin Soldier or Nightmare Penguin. Normally a water deck depends on abilities to control the opponent or remove their cards, that is why A Legendary Ocean is used more for it's level-decreasing ability and the ATK boost is only a nice side-effect.\\nOne big mistake most Beginner duelists do is they use a structure deck as-is and don't edit it. It is bad with Structure deck 4 because it only has 1 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus and 1 Neo-Daedalus. Do NOT use Neo-Daedalus if you only have 1 Levia Dragon in your deck. He can only be summoned by contributing Levia Dragon (Some Neo-Daedalus in the structure deck are misprints, find the real effect at yugioh.wikia.org). If you draw him when you don't have Levia Dragon, he is useless until you get a Levia-Dragon.\\nOrganize the cards in your WATER deck by Monster, Spell and Trap and see the Monster to Spell/Trap ratio comes close to 1:1. There should be slightly more spells than traps in this deck.\\nAlways be sure you have an empty or bad hand before you use Neo-Daedalus's ability. It can still help even if your opponent has a lot of Life Points left because the chances are, whatever your opponent draws won't help him and you can always summon other monsters to attack. But if you have a lot of good cards in your hand use those first.\\nOrganize the cards in your WATER deck by these categories: Spell/Trap removal or prevention, Monster removal, Special Summoning, Monster protection, Spell/Trap protection, searching, Monster/spell/trap recovery from graveyard, High ATK/ATK boosters, attack protection/prevention, tribute monsters, Low-level monsters. There is no set ratio for these categories, this just helps you organize your deck better and decide which cards to add/remove.\\nWhen deciding if a card is good for a WATER deck, ask yourself these questions:\\nDoes it help my other cards?\\nDoes it center around my style of playing?\\nDo other cards in my deck help it/strengthen it/protect it?\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A Water Deck could be one of the most supported deck types in Yu-Gi-Oh!. It is very versatile with a number of playing styles. This guide:\\n\\n\\nWill show how to build a WATER deck in all its forms\\nHelp you when you want to change your WATER deck up a bit.\\nGive you good strategies in the fray of a duel\\nInform you of many useful WATER monsters\\nShow you useful combos in your deck building\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a SD4 (Structure deck 4 Fury From The Deep).\", \"描述\": \"It has most of the cards you need for a water deck; for example, Levia-Dragon Daedalus\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"From your Starter deck, it is highly recommended you use all 3 of your Mother Grizzly and A Legendary Ocean.\", \"描述\": \"You can use your Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, Codarus, or both(Codarus is a card upcoming in Absolute Powerforce). At least 1 is recommended. Depending on the number of the above 2 cards you include, add in some Forgotten Temple of the Deep, also in Absolute Powerforce. This will count as \\\"Umi\\\" for Daedalus' and Codarus' effects.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find cards that will boost any WATER deck such as Warrior of Atlantis, a versatile card you could use to search out \\\"A legendary Ocean\\\", and Aqua Spirit, a Special Summon monster with decent ATK and a good Control Effect.\", \"描述\": \"The number of Aqua Spirit(s) should vary depending on your type of water deck, but you should always have 3 Warrior of Atlantis.\\nWATER decks can be used in all 3 general deck strategies: Beatdown, Control or Combo. Choose what type your WATER deck will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If you choose Beatdown, get some High ATK Level 5 WATER monsters like Giga Gagagigo and Terrorking Salmon, which can be summoned without tribute from A Legendary Ocean.\", \"描述\": \"Use High ATK level 4 WATER monsters as well like Gemini Lancer, Abyss Soldier and Blizzard Dragon, although it has a Control Effect it still has High ATK. It's OK and actually encouraged for your Beatdown Deck to have a few Control elements and vice versa. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy. Use Spell cards that will help with Attacking or Swarming like Big Wave Small Wave or Hydro-Pressure Cannon (which will work with Level 4s from A Legendary Ocean). Generic Destruction Trap cards like Mirror Force and Sakuretsu Armor are recommended.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you choose Control, get cards like Gora Turtle, Maryokutai, B.E.S.\", \"描述\": \"Crystal Core, Nightmare Penguin and Penguin Soldier, which will all help you control the field and remove opponent's monsters. Add in 1 or 2 Amphibious Bugroth MK-3, Mermaid Knight, and Star Boy, although this deck will have less of these monsters than the Beatdown deck. Since most of these cards will be Low Level and Low Attack, use at least 2 Salvage, 2 Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord, and 1 Hydro Pressure Cannon. Use Gravity Bind and/or Level Limit Area B which is a must for Control Decks. Keep in mind Level Limit is Limited and Gravity Bind is Semi-Limited.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"If you choose Combo, this means that you heavily rely on Levia-Dragon - Daedalus' and Codarus' Effects.\", \"描述\": \"In this deck, use a high number of either or both of them. If you have mostly Codarus' in your deck, then you want Low-Level Support Cards like Salvage and Mother Grizzly to search it out. If you have mostly Levia Dragon, use Big Wave Small Wave to summon it easier and Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord to protect your weaker monsters from his effect. And if you have AT LEAST 2 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus, add in an Ocean Dragon Lord - Neo-Daedalus, NO MORE than 2 because he is a \\\"dead draw\\\". Use 3 Forgotten Temple of the Deep, and 1 or 2 Pseudo Space to copy A Legendary Ocean.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Even if you only plan to use a Beatdown or Control-centered deck, read steps #5 - 7 to get more ideas for your deck.\", \"描述\": \"WATER decks are very versatile in this way and can change their playing style to fit the situation.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"It can be a good idea to collect \\\"Shark\\\" cards from the new show.\", \"描述\": \"Shark uses a variety of strong level 3 monsters to Xyz summon. Rank 3 monsters are currently the most populated, with 7, so you have plenty of options! However, the only two water Xyz monsters are Submersible Carrier Aero Shark and Leviathan Dragon.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Many of your cards will say \\\"If 'Umi' ...\\\". Use A Legendary Ocean instead of Umi, NO EXCEPTIONS. A Legendary Ocean will support all your WATER monsters and lower their levels (very, very important), while Umi only can boost your Aqua, Fish and Sea Serpent types (you will have some Beast, Beast-Warrior, Machine and Even Plant types in your deck). A Legendary Ocean also counts as Umi anywhere, so you can only have a total of 3 A Legendary Ocean and Umi combined in your deck. Just get used to thinking of A Legendary Ocean as \\\"Umi\\\".\\n\", \"Some other support cards exist, like Maiden of the Aqua, Water Hazard, Armed Seahunter, or The Legendary Fisherman. While these aren't sure to help your deck and are not included in this guide, you should consider these cards when building your Water deck or playtest them. You never know when you might find a really good combo with these cards or that they really help your style of playing.\\n\", \"Cursed Fig is an optional tech card that when destroyed, will lock down face-down 2 Spell/Trap cards from being activated as long as it's in the graveyard. Use it in your deck if you think your deck doesn't have enough cards that destroy Spell/Trap Cards. Cursed Fig can be searched by Mother Grizzly, Salvage, and Protected by Aegis of the Ocean Dragon Lord.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Remember, just because a card supports WATER monsters or Umi, doesn't make it good. One example is Deep Sea Warrior, a horrible card. Make your deck close to 40 cards, if possible.\\n\", \"Try not to use too many cards to boost attack, instead use more cards like Penguin Soldier or Nightmare Penguin. Normally a water deck depends on abilities to control the opponent or remove their cards, that is why A Legendary Ocean is used more for it's level-decreasing ability and the ATK boost is only a nice side-effect.\\n\", \"One big mistake most Beginner duelists do is they use a structure deck as-is and don't edit it. It is bad with Structure deck 4 because it only has 1 Levia-Dragon - Daedalus and 1 Neo-Daedalus. Do NOT use Neo-Daedalus if you only have 1 Levia Dragon in your deck. He can only be summoned by contributing Levia Dragon (Some Neo-Daedalus in the structure deck are misprints, find the real effect at yugioh.wikia.org). If you draw him when you don't have Levia Dragon, he is useless until you get a Levia-Dragon.\\n\", \"Organize the cards in your WATER deck by Monster, Spell and Trap and see the Monster to Spell/Trap ratio comes close to 1:1. There should be slightly more spells than traps in this deck.\\n\", \"Always be sure you have an empty or bad hand before you use Neo-Daedalus's ability. It can still help even if your opponent has a lot of Life Points left because the chances are, whatever your opponent draws won't help him and you can always summon other monsters to attack. But if you have a lot of good cards in your hand use those first.\\n\", \"Organize the cards in your WATER deck by these categories: Spell/Trap removal or prevention, Monster removal, Special Summoning, Monster protection, Spell/Trap protection, searching, Monster/spell/trap recovery from graveyard, High ATK/ATK boosters, attack protection/prevention, tribute monsters, Low-level monsters. There is no set ratio for these categories, this just helps you organize your deck better and decide which cards to add/remove.\\n\", \"When deciding if a card is good for a WATER deck, ask yourself these questions:\\nDoes it help my other cards?\\nDoes it center around my style of playing?\\nDo other cards in my deck help it/strengthen it/protect it?\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,635 |
How to Build a Yurt
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1. Building the Base
1-1. Decide on a spot for your yurt to protect it from the elements.
To prevent any weather damages, be mindful of where you set up your yurt. The best spot will be protected from wind, receive sun in the morning, get shade in the afternoon, and be free of any overhead objects.
This way, your structure will stay safe and secure.
Overhead items include dead tree limbs, for example.
1-2. Use a circular platform that is the same diameter of your yurt.
The particular size of your platform depends on the overall diameter of your structure. These instructions are for a yurt with a 12 ft (3.7 m) diameter, so review your particular instructions before you start and adjust the process as necessary.
If your platform is not the same size and shape, your yurt may not be completely weatherproof.
You want the side cover fabric to extend below the interior floor level for a draft-free, watertight seal.
1-3. Hire a professional to help you build your platform.
The platform is the hardest and most complex part of building a yurt. If you are not familiar with carpentry work, hire a professional contractor to make your base. This is the easiest way to ensure you build your yurt safely and correctly.
If you’d like to try building the platform yourself, review the instructions from your specific yurt manufacturer. Many companies offer preliminary instructions on building your base yourself. These instructions will vary based on your particular yurt kit.
1-4. Place the footings in a circular shape according to your framing plan.
Use 10 or so concrete footings to make the base of your platform. The overall placement will depend on your particular framing plan, but in general the footings should be 2–4 ft (0.61–1.22 m) apart in a 12 ft (3.7 m) circular shape.
Use precast concrete footings.
1-5. Cut the beams to the correct length and fasten them to the footings.
Use a table saw to cut your wooden beams based on your floor plan. Then, place the beams across the footings, and use a level to ensure each beam is straight. Finally, fasten the beams to the footings using the attached holders on the wooden beams.
For assistance with this process, ask your professional carpenter.
Your specific beam placement will depend on your instructions.
1-6. Secure your flooring onto the wooden beams with your drill.
You can use 1.125 in (2.86 cm) thick plywood to create your flooring. Lay the boards over top of your beams so they are flat and parallel, and secure them on each side using a drill and a screw. Insert a screw through the plywood and the beam every 6–12 in (15–30 cm).
The size and width of your flooring depends on your particular instructions.
1-7. Cut the flooring into a circle to match your yurt’s diameter.
Using a hand saw, go around the edges and cut off any piece of plywood that hangs over your beams. This maintains the overall circular shape of your yurt. Make your cuts so the flooring and beams are flush.
It’s okay if the sides aren’t completely even. Try your best to cut the wood as straight as possible.
1-8. Apply waterproof caulking around the outside edge to seal out moisture.
This seals the flooring and the drip edge. The drip edge is the outer edge of the yurt, and it is important to seal the edge and the flooring so no moisture gets inside. To do this, run a thin, even line of caulking around the perimeter of the flooring.
This way, your wood is secured together and rain or condensation will not seep into your yurt.
1-9. Secure a strip of plywood around the perimeter to finish the drip edge.
Cut ⁄8 ft (0.11 m) exterior plywood into strips, based on your desired width. Hold the strips around the perimeter of the drip edge, and use a drill and large wood screws to fasten the strips of wood. Add 1 screw to each end of the strip. When you do this, you want 1 ft (0.30 m) of plywood to extend above the floor level.
Use a table saw to cut your strips to your desired size.
2. Attaching the Lattice
2-1. Unwrap your lattice wall and grab a helper to get started.
The lattice wall often comes in a cylindrical package about 2 ft (0.61 m) in diameter and 8 ft (2.4 m) long (for a 12–16 ft (3.7–4.9 m) yurt). Remove the lattice wall, and have a helper assist you in moving it to the back of the circular platform.
2-2. Stretch the wall around the perimeter of your platform.
Start by undoing the straps around the lattice wall. Ensure the outside is facing the outward direction and the inside of the wall is facing toward your platform. Then, stretch out the lattice around the perimeter, just inside the drip edge. As you do this, keep the lattice wall stable by holding it securely.
The outside of the lattice has holes in the middle of the rivets, while the inside has no holes.
Keep your fingers out of the way, or they can get pinched as you unfold the lattice.
This creates the circular shape of your structure.
2-3. Leave a 4 ft (1.2 m) gap to install your door frame.
You want enough space to position your door frame at your opening, though you can place your door wherever you'd like. To install the door, remove the wingnuts and washers from inside the door frame, and slip the end of the plate with the oval hole onto the clamp bolts. Then, replace the washers and wingnuts and twist them into place.
Ensure that the key side of the door faces outward.
Consult your instructions if you have any trouble installing the door. It should be easy and straightforward.
There may be a notch in the door threshold behind the door frame. Make sure the door threshold is outside of the drip edge.
2-4. Check the perimeter of your yurt to ensure the wall height is consistent.
Use a tape measure to check the height of your structure every 2–3 ft (0.61–0.91 m). Make adjustments to the lattice wall as needed by repositioning the wall.
Your finished height depends on your overall yurt size.
2-5. Secure the lattice wall to the door with the included hardware.
Once your lattice wall is properly placed, you can attach it to the door. Remove the cap nuts, washers, and bolts located along the bottom of the lattice about every 6th crotch. Then, attach the lattice wall anchoring straps using the included screws. Hold the anchor into place, and line a screw up with the hole. Then, use your drill to secure the screw in place.
The crotch of the lattice refers to where 2 pieces of wood intersect.
These brackets are made so the screws go through the drip edge and the flooring material.
The anchors and screws come in your yurt kit.
2-6. Secure the belly bands to the door frames.
Once the door frame and lattice walls are attached, make any final adjustments if you need to. Then, lay the belly band along the top of the lattice wall. Tie 1 end of the belly band to the hook in the top door frame, then feed the band through each crotch of the lattice. As you go, remove the slack in the line. Finally, tie the belly band to the opposite door frame hook when you reach the other side.
Belly bands are nylon or other stretchy, strong straps. They are usually 50 ft (15 m) long.
Alternatively, your kit may come with tension cables instead of belly bands. These often hook onto the door instead of tying to it.
After everything is securely fastened, make adjustments as needed to improve the shape of the yurt.
3. Installing the Rafters
3-1. Put on a hard hat before you start installing the rafters.
Treat the interior of the yurt as a hard-hat zone until the rafters are installed, as the rafters can fall on your head. Once the rafters are installed, you can take off your hard hat. While raising the center ring and installing the rafters is an exciting part of the assembly, it should be executed with care.
Children or observers not involved with assembly should stay outside of the yurt.
3-2. Lay down the center ring and mark 3-4 evenly-spaced holes for the rafters.
To easily install the center ring, keep the bolt heads down and the nutted ends up. Then, use a marker to make a spot for 3-4 evenly-spaced holes around the circle. The distance between each spot will depend on the size of your center ring. Then, mark each spot where the “set up “ rafters will rest on the cable, based on your instructions.
If you need help with this step, take a look at your rafter spacing diagram.
Your marks are where you insert the “set up” rafters to raise the center ring.
3-3. Attach 3 of the rafters to the center ring.
Align your rafter at 1 of the spots you made on the center ring. Use your hands to lift up the ring, and insert the pin of the rafter into the ring to attach it. Then, repeat the procedure for your second rafter. To attach the third rafter, raise the ring off of the ground. When you lift up the center ring, let the first 2 rafters support 1 side. Then, insert the pin of the third rafter into the marked hole. Lift the center ring into position using the third rafter. Maintain pressure on the first 2 rafters, and place the notched end of the rafter on the cable.
There is a metal pin on the side of the rafter that easily slides into the center ring.
When attaching your rafters, be sure to follow the marked holes and cable spaces.
It is helpful to have a friend stand close with another rafter to push the ring up. Until you have a few rafters in place, it may be a bit tricky.
3-4. Slide the remaining rafters into the top of the yurt.
To insert the rafter, put the end with the pin in completely, move the other end to the cable, push the lattice wall slightly outward with your shoulder, and hook the rafter to the cable. Install the rafters over your doors as your final step, since these rafters help hold the belly band or tension cables in place. Keep your rafter pattern symmetrical to balance the weight and placement. It is also helpful to keep 2 lattice wall crotches in between each rafter.
Once you angle the rafter correctly, the rafter easily slides into place. Do not force the rafter into the ring.
Alternatively, stand outside the structure, put the rafter over the lattice walls, and push the end into one of the slots along the roof ring.
When you have 4-6 rafters secure, the person holding the center support can let go and get out of the way.
The number of rafters you need depends on your particular instructions.
3-5. Install a screw into the pre-drilled hole just below the belly band.
To prevent the rafters from lifting up, use your drill to add the included screws to the underside of the rafter. To find the pre-drilled hole, look on the bottom of the rafter near the tension cable or belly band.
Do not use different or longer screws. The screw provided is the correct size for the pre-drilled hole.
3-6. Secure the rafters to the door frame using header brackets.
Each rafter has a slight notch to hold the tension cable or belly band in place against the door. Go inside the yurt, and place the header bracket onto the rafter on top of the door. Rest the flat side on top of the door header. Then, slide it forward so it is flush with the tension cable. Secure the brackets to the rafters using the included screws and your power drill.
Before you fasten the header bracket to the door header, make sure the door is straight.
3-7. Install the safety cable to the rafters to hold them in the ring.
To do this, remove the cable clamps from the safety cable, and thread the cable through the pre-drilled holes in the rafters. When you reach the starting point, bring the end of the cable through the loop on the opposite end, and pull it tightly. Reposition the cable clamps and tighten them so they are secure.
You can then cut off any extra cable using a cable cutter.
4. Securing the Cover
4-1. Install your roof insulation and liner facing if included in your kit.
Not all yurts require insulation or lining, but they conserve heat and protect your yurt from the elements. Install your insulation on a day that is not very windy, and do this once the rafters are all in place. Use a step ladder to reach the top middle of your yurt, and spread the liner over the rafters. Have a friend pull the hemmed end around the rafter ends. Then, place the insulation on top of the liner. You can secure the upper area while your friend secures the perimeter.
To secure the lining and insulation, use a staple gun to add a staple every 4–8 in (10–20 cm).
Once the insulation seam is aligned properly, use the foil tape to secure the seam.
If you’d like, trim the insulation around the door frame so it does not get in the way.
4-2. Take out the cover and place a step ladder in the middle of your yurt.
Remove the cover from the bag and get rid of the binding straps. The cover of your yurt is often in a bag made of the same material. Untie the straps around the cover. Then, place your step ladder inside your yurt so you can unroll the cover.
4-3. Unroll the covering toward the door frame.
To do this, bring the top of the covering through the center ring opening. Once the covering is through the opening, you can let the covering unroll until it reaches your door.
4-4. Unfold your covering 2-3 times to begin wrapping the perimeter.
As you stand on the step ladder, have a friend work around the perimeter. Once the covering is unrolled, unfold it 2-3 times to cover a bit in each direction. As you do this, look for the cut-out opening for the door in the top cover valance. The cut-out has many oval grommets, rather than round grommets.
Ensure the cut-out is centered over the door so you can easily install the rest of the covering.
4-5. Unfold half of the covering and secure it using connectors.
Work with your friend to unfold the rest of the covering across the top and perimeter of the yurt. Once the covering is halfway unfolded and covers half of your rafters, install a 2-5 twist-lock connectors or S-clips to secure the top cover at the door.
Securing the cover near the door keeps the door detail aligned.
4-6. Pull the top layer of the cover over the center ring and down the other side.
Then, tie a cord to a few of the grommets on the top cover. Use the cord to help pull the rest of the fabric over the center ring and around the perimeter. Finally, pull the outside edge around so it is snug around the ends of the rafters.
It is imperative that the top cover is centered on the center ring and pulled down evenly. If not, your covering will be crooked.
You do not need to fasten the cover to the center ring.
4-7. Mark the oval grommet locations around the door to secure them.
Once the covering is in place, inspect the door frame to make sure everything fits properly. Then, use a marker to indicate the oval grommet locations. Drill ⁄64 ft (0.033 m) pilot holes with the provided bits, and then fasten the twist-lock connectors.
If you don’t drill pilot holes, you may break the twist-lock shank.
If you overtighten the twist-lock connectors, you can also break the shank.
Once your roof is in place, consult your instructions regarding any specific finishing touches.
Tips
Regardless of your experience level, research online and familiarize yourself with the process as much as possible before you begin. This way, you can do the best job the first time.
It is easiest to assemble the yurt with the help of 2-3 other people.
Position your yurt near a clean water supply so you can easily access it for cooking and cleaning purposes.
Warnings
If you have any questions regarding the setup of your yurt kit, call the manufacturer for help.
It may take a few attempts to build the perfect yurt. Have patience and make adjustments as necessary.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Base\\n1-1. Decide on a spot for your yurt to protect it from the elements.\\nTo prevent any weather damages, be mindful of where you set up your yurt. The best spot will be protected from wind, receive sun in the morning, get shade in the afternoon, and be free of any overhead objects.\\nThis way, your structure will stay safe and secure.\\nOverhead items include dead tree limbs, for example.\\n1-2. Use a circular platform that is the same diameter of your yurt.\\nThe particular size of your platform depends on the overall diameter of your structure. These instructions are for a yurt with a 12 ft (3.7 m) diameter, so review your particular instructions before you start and adjust the process as necessary.\\nIf your platform is not the same size and shape, your yurt may not be completely weatherproof.\\nYou want the side cover fabric to extend below the interior floor level for a draft-free, watertight seal.\\n1-3. Hire a professional to help you build your platform.\\nThe platform is the hardest and most complex part of building a yurt. If you are not familiar with carpentry work, hire a professional contractor to make your base. This is the easiest way to ensure you build your yurt safely and correctly.\\nIf you’d like to try building the platform yourself, review the instructions from your specific yurt manufacturer. Many companies offer preliminary instructions on building your base yourself. These instructions will vary based on your particular yurt kit.\\n1-4. Place the footings in a circular shape according to your framing plan.\\nUse 10 or so concrete footings to make the base of your platform. The overall placement will depend on your particular framing plan, but in general the footings should be 2–4 ft (0.61–1.22 m) apart in a 12 ft (3.7 m) circular shape.\\nUse precast concrete footings.\\n1-5. Cut the beams to the correct length and fasten them to the footings.\\nUse a table saw to cut your wooden beams based on your floor plan. Then, place the beams across the footings, and use a level to ensure each beam is straight. Finally, fasten the beams to the footings using the attached holders on the wooden beams.\\nFor assistance with this process, ask your professional carpenter.\\nYour specific beam placement will depend on your instructions.\\n1-6. Secure your flooring onto the wooden beams with your drill.\\nYou can use 1.125 in (2.86 cm) thick plywood to create your flooring. Lay the boards over top of your beams so they are flat and parallel, and secure them on each side using a drill and a screw. Insert a screw through the plywood and the beam every 6–12 in (15–30 cm).\\nThe size and width of your flooring depends on your particular instructions.\\n1-7. Cut the flooring into a circle to match your yurt’s diameter.\\nUsing a hand saw, go around the edges and cut off any piece of plywood that hangs over your beams. This maintains the overall circular shape of your yurt. Make your cuts so the flooring and beams are flush.\\nIt’s okay if the sides aren’t completely even. Try your best to cut the wood as straight as possible.\\n1-8. Apply waterproof caulking around the outside edge to seal out moisture.\\nThis seals the flooring and the drip edge. The drip edge is the outer edge of the yurt, and it is important to seal the edge and the flooring so no moisture gets inside. To do this, run a thin, even line of caulking around the perimeter of the flooring.\\nThis way, your wood is secured together and rain or condensation will not seep into your yurt.\\n1-9. Secure a strip of plywood around the perimeter to finish the drip edge.\\nCut ⁄8 ft (0.11 m) exterior plywood into strips, based on your desired width. Hold the strips around the perimeter of the drip edge, and use a drill and large wood screws to fasten the strips of wood. Add 1 screw to each end of the strip. When you do this, you want 1 ft (0.30 m) of plywood to extend above the floor level.\\nUse a table saw to cut your strips to your desired size.\\n2. Attaching the Lattice\\n2-1. Unwrap your lattice wall and grab a helper to get started.\\nThe lattice wall often comes in a cylindrical package about 2 ft (0.61 m) in diameter and 8 ft (2.4 m) long (for a 12–16 ft (3.7–4.9 m) yurt). Remove the lattice wall, and have a helper assist you in moving it to the back of the circular platform.\\n2-2. Stretch the wall around the perimeter of your platform.\\nStart by undoing the straps around the lattice wall. Ensure the outside is facing the outward direction and the inside of the wall is facing toward your platform. Then, stretch out the lattice around the perimeter, just inside the drip edge. As you do this, keep the lattice wall stable by holding it securely.\\nThe outside of the lattice has holes in the middle of the rivets, while the inside has no holes.\\nKeep your fingers out of the way, or they can get pinched as you unfold the lattice.\\nThis creates the circular shape of your structure.\\n2-3. Leave a 4 ft (1.2 m) gap to install your door frame.\\nYou want enough space to position your door frame at your opening, though you can place your door wherever you'd like. To install the door, remove the wingnuts and washers from inside the door frame, and slip the end of the plate with the oval hole onto the clamp bolts. Then, replace the washers and wingnuts and twist them into place.\\nEnsure that the key side of the door faces outward.\\nConsult your instructions if you have any trouble installing the door. It should be easy and straightforward.\\nThere may be a notch in the door threshold behind the door frame. Make sure the door threshold is outside of the drip edge.\\n2-4. Check the perimeter of your yurt to ensure the wall height is consistent.\\nUse a tape measure to check the height of your structure every 2–3 ft (0.61–0.91 m). Make adjustments to the lattice wall as needed by repositioning the wall.\\nYour finished height depends on your overall yurt size.\\n2-5. Secure the lattice wall to the door with the included hardware.\\nOnce your lattice wall is properly placed, you can attach it to the door. Remove the cap nuts, washers, and bolts located along the bottom of the lattice about every 6th crotch. Then, attach the lattice wall anchoring straps using the included screws. Hold the anchor into place, and line a screw up with the hole. Then, use your drill to secure the screw in place.\\nThe crotch of the lattice refers to where 2 pieces of wood intersect.\\nThese brackets are made so the screws go through the drip edge and the flooring material.\\nThe anchors and screws come in your yurt kit.\\n2-6. Secure the belly bands to the door frames.\\nOnce the door frame and lattice walls are attached, make any final adjustments if you need to. Then, lay the belly band along the top of the lattice wall. Tie 1 end of the belly band to the hook in the top door frame, then feed the band through each crotch of the lattice. As you go, remove the slack in the line. Finally, tie the belly band to the opposite door frame hook when you reach the other side.\\nBelly bands are nylon or other stretchy, strong straps. They are usually 50 ft (15 m) long.\\nAlternatively, your kit may come with tension cables instead of belly bands. These often hook onto the door instead of tying to it.\\nAfter everything is securely fastened, make adjustments as needed to improve the shape of the yurt.\\n3. Installing the Rafters\\n3-1. Put on a hard hat before you start installing the rafters.\\nTreat the interior of the yurt as a hard-hat zone until the rafters are installed, as the rafters can fall on your head. Once the rafters are installed, you can take off your hard hat. While raising the center ring and installing the rafters is an exciting part of the assembly, it should be executed with care.\\nChildren or observers not involved with assembly should stay outside of the yurt.\\n3-2. Lay down the center ring and mark 3-4 evenly-spaced holes for the rafters.\\nTo easily install the center ring, keep the bolt heads down and the nutted ends up. Then, use a marker to make a spot for 3-4 evenly-spaced holes around the circle. The distance between each spot will depend on the size of your center ring. Then, mark each spot where the “set up “ rafters will rest on the cable, based on your instructions.\\nIf you need help with this step, take a look at your rafter spacing diagram.\\nYour marks are where you insert the “set up” rafters to raise the center ring.\\n3-3. Attach 3 of the rafters to the center ring.\\nAlign your rafter at 1 of the spots you made on the center ring. Use your hands to lift up the ring, and insert the pin of the rafter into the ring to attach it. Then, repeat the procedure for your second rafter. To attach the third rafter, raise the ring off of the ground. When you lift up the center ring, let the first 2 rafters support 1 side. Then, insert the pin of the third rafter into the marked hole. Lift the center ring into position using the third rafter. Maintain pressure on the first 2 rafters, and place the notched end of the rafter on the cable.\\nThere is a metal pin on the side of the rafter that easily slides into the center ring.\\nWhen attaching your rafters, be sure to follow the marked holes and cable spaces.\\nIt is helpful to have a friend stand close with another rafter to push the ring up. Until you have a few rafters in place, it may be a bit tricky.\\n3-4. Slide the remaining rafters into the top of the yurt.\\nTo insert the rafter, put the end with the pin in completely, move the other end to the cable, push the lattice wall slightly outward with your shoulder, and hook the rafter to the cable. Install the rafters over your doors as your final step, since these rafters help hold the belly band or tension cables in place. Keep your rafter pattern symmetrical to balance the weight and placement. It is also helpful to keep 2 lattice wall crotches in between each rafter.\\nOnce you angle the rafter correctly, the rafter easily slides into place. Do not force the rafter into the ring.\\nAlternatively, stand outside the structure, put the rafter over the lattice walls, and push the end into one of the slots along the roof ring.\\nWhen you have 4-6 rafters secure, the person holding the center support can let go and get out of the way.\\nThe number of rafters you need depends on your particular instructions.\\n3-5. Install a screw into the pre-drilled hole just below the belly band.\\nTo prevent the rafters from lifting up, use your drill to add the included screws to the underside of the rafter. To find the pre-drilled hole, look on the bottom of the rafter near the tension cable or belly band.\\nDo not use different or longer screws. The screw provided is the correct size for the pre-drilled hole.\\n3-6. Secure the rafters to the door frame using header brackets.\\nEach rafter has a slight notch to hold the tension cable or belly band in place against the door. Go inside the yurt, and place the header bracket onto the rafter on top of the door. Rest the flat side on top of the door header. Then, slide it forward so it is flush with the tension cable. Secure the brackets to the rafters using the included screws and your power drill.\\nBefore you fasten the header bracket to the door header, make sure the door is straight.\\n3-7. Install the safety cable to the rafters to hold them in the ring.\\nTo do this, remove the cable clamps from the safety cable, and thread the cable through the pre-drilled holes in the rafters. When you reach the starting point, bring the end of the cable through the loop on the opposite end, and pull it tightly. Reposition the cable clamps and tighten them so they are secure.\\nYou can then cut off any extra cable using a cable cutter.\\n4. Securing the Cover\\n4-1. Install your roof insulation and liner facing if included in your kit.\\nNot all yurts require insulation or lining, but they conserve heat and protect your yurt from the elements. Install your insulation on a day that is not very windy, and do this once the rafters are all in place. Use a step ladder to reach the top middle of your yurt, and spread the liner over the rafters. Have a friend pull the hemmed end around the rafter ends. Then, place the insulation on top of the liner. You can secure the upper area while your friend secures the perimeter.\\nTo secure the lining and insulation, use a staple gun to add a staple every 4–8 in (10–20 cm).\\nOnce the insulation seam is aligned properly, use the foil tape to secure the seam.\\nIf you’d like, trim the insulation around the door frame so it does not get in the way.\\n4-2. Take out the cover and place a step ladder in the middle of your yurt.\\nRemove the cover from the bag and get rid of the binding straps. The cover of your yurt is often in a bag made of the same material. Untie the straps around the cover. Then, place your step ladder inside your yurt so you can unroll the cover.\\n4-3. Unroll the covering toward the door frame.\\nTo do this, bring the top of the covering through the center ring opening. Once the covering is through the opening, you can let the covering unroll until it reaches your door.\\n4-4. Unfold your covering 2-3 times to begin wrapping the perimeter.\\nAs you stand on the step ladder, have a friend work around the perimeter. Once the covering is unrolled, unfold it 2-3 times to cover a bit in each direction. As you do this, look for the cut-out opening for the door in the top cover valance. The cut-out has many oval grommets, rather than round grommets. \\nEnsure the cut-out is centered over the door so you can easily install the rest of the covering.\\n4-5. Unfold half of the covering and secure it using connectors.\\nWork with your friend to unfold the rest of the covering across the top and perimeter of the yurt. Once the covering is halfway unfolded and covers half of your rafters, install a 2-5 twist-lock connectors or S-clips to secure the top cover at the door.\\nSecuring the cover near the door keeps the door detail aligned.\\n4-6. Pull the top layer of the cover over the center ring and down the other side.\\nThen, tie a cord to a few of the grommets on the top cover. Use the cord to help pull the rest of the fabric over the center ring and around the perimeter. Finally, pull the outside edge around so it is snug around the ends of the rafters.\\nIt is imperative that the top cover is centered on the center ring and pulled down evenly. If not, your covering will be crooked.\\nYou do not need to fasten the cover to the center ring.\\n4-7. Mark the oval grommet locations around the door to secure them.\\nOnce the covering is in place, inspect the door frame to make sure everything fits properly. Then, use a marker to indicate the oval grommet locations. Drill ⁄64 ft (0.033 m) pilot holes with the provided bits, and then fasten the twist-lock connectors.\\nIf you don’t drill pilot holes, you may break the twist-lock shank.\\nIf you overtighten the twist-lock connectors, you can also break the shank.\\nOnce your roof is in place, consult your instructions regarding any specific finishing touches.\\nTips\\nRegardless of your experience level, research online and familiarize yourself with the process as much as possible before you begin. This way, you can do the best job the first time.\\nIt is easiest to assemble the yurt with the help of 2-3 other people.\\nPosition your yurt near a clean water supply so you can easily access it for cooking and cleaning purposes.\\nWarnings\\nIf you have any questions regarding the setup of your yurt kit, call the manufacturer for help.\\nIt may take a few attempts to build the perfect yurt. Have patience and make adjustments as necessary.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Yurts are round, tent-like structures traditionally used in Mongolia as mobile homes. While yurts are not complex structures, they do require some general carpentry skills to build and set up. If you are a beginner, purchase a yurt kit to easily build your structure. If you’re comfortable with carpentry, search online for yurt building plans, and make each piece of the structure yourself. With some research and equipment, you can create your very own yurt.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on a spot for your yurt to protect it from the elements.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent any weather damages, be mindful of where you set up your yurt. The best spot will be protected from wind, receive sun in the morning, get shade in the afternoon, and be free of any overhead objects.\\nThis way, your structure will stay safe and secure.\\nOverhead items include dead tree limbs, for example.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a circular platform that is the same diameter of your yurt.\", \"描述\": \"The particular size of your platform depends on the overall diameter of your structure. These instructions are for a yurt with a 12 ft (3.7 m) diameter, so review your particular instructions before you start and adjust the process as necessary.\\nIf your platform is not the same size and shape, your yurt may not be completely weatherproof.\\nYou want the side cover fabric to extend below the interior floor level for a draft-free, watertight seal.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hire a professional to help you build your platform.\", \"描述\": \"The platform is the hardest and most complex part of building a yurt. If you are not familiar with carpentry work, hire a professional contractor to make your base. This is the easiest way to ensure you build your yurt safely and correctly.\\nIf you’d like to try building the platform yourself, review the instructions from your specific yurt manufacturer. Many companies offer preliminary instructions on building your base yourself. These instructions will vary based on your particular yurt kit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the footings in a circular shape according to your framing plan.\", \"描述\": \"Use 10 or so concrete footings to make the base of your platform. The overall placement will depend on your particular framing plan, but in general the footings should be 2–4 ft (0.61–1.22 m) apart in a 12 ft (3.7 m) circular shape.\\nUse precast concrete footings.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the beams to the correct length and fasten them to the footings.\", \"描述\": \"Use a table saw to cut your wooden beams based on your floor plan. Then, place the beams across the footings, and use a level to ensure each beam is straight. Finally, fasten the beams to the footings using the attached holders on the wooden beams.\\nFor assistance with this process, ask your professional carpenter.\\nYour specific beam placement will depend on your instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure your flooring onto the wooden beams with your drill.\", \"描述\": \"You can use 1.125 in (2.86 cm) thick plywood to create your flooring. Lay the boards over top of your beams so they are flat and parallel, and secure them on each side using a drill and a screw. Insert a screw through the plywood and the beam every 6–12 in (15–30 cm).\\nThe size and width of your flooring depends on your particular instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut the flooring into a circle to match your yurt’s diameter.\", \"描述\": \"Using a hand saw, go around the edges and cut off any piece of plywood that hangs over your beams. This maintains the overall circular shape of your yurt. Make your cuts so the flooring and beams are flush.\\nIt’s okay if the sides aren’t completely even. Try your best to cut the wood as straight as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Apply waterproof caulking around the outside edge to seal out moisture.\", \"描述\": \"This seals the flooring and the drip edge. The drip edge is the outer edge of the yurt, and it is important to seal the edge and the flooring so no moisture gets inside. To do this, run a thin, even line of caulking around the perimeter of the flooring.\\nThis way, your wood is secured together and rain or condensation will not seep into your yurt.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Secure a strip of plywood around the perimeter to finish the drip edge.\", \"描述\": \"Cut ⁄8 ft (0.11 m) exterior plywood into strips, based on your desired width. Hold the strips around the perimeter of the drip edge, and use a drill and large wood screws to fasten the strips of wood. Add 1 screw to each end of the strip. When you do this, you want 1 ft (0.30 m) of plywood to extend above the floor level.\\nUse a table saw to cut your strips to your desired size.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Lattice\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Unwrap your lattice wall and grab a helper to get started.\", \"描述\": \"The lattice wall often comes in a cylindrical package about 2 ft (0.61 m) in diameter and 8 ft (2.4 m) long (for a 12–16 ft (3.7–4.9 m) yurt). Remove the lattice wall, and have a helper assist you in moving it to the back of the circular platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stretch the wall around the perimeter of your platform.\", \"描述\": \"Start by undoing the straps around the lattice wall. Ensure the outside is facing the outward direction and the inside of the wall is facing toward your platform. Then, stretch out the lattice around the perimeter, just inside the drip edge. As you do this, keep the lattice wall stable by holding it securely.\\nThe outside of the lattice has holes in the middle of the rivets, while the inside has no holes.\\nKeep your fingers out of the way, or they can get pinched as you unfold the lattice.\\nThis creates the circular shape of your structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave a 4 ft (1.2 m) gap to install your door frame.\", \"描述\": \"You want enough space to position your door frame at your opening, though you can place your door wherever you'd like. To install the door, remove the wingnuts and washers from inside the door frame, and slip the end of the plate with the oval hole onto the clamp bolts. Then, replace the washers and wingnuts and twist them into place.\\nEnsure that the key side of the door faces outward.\\nConsult your instructions if you have any trouble installing the door. It should be easy and straightforward.\\nThere may be a notch in the door threshold behind the door frame. Make sure the door threshold is outside of the drip edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check the perimeter of your yurt to ensure the wall height is consistent.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to check the height of your structure every 2–3 ft (0.61–0.91 m). Make adjustments to the lattice wall as needed by repositioning the wall.\\nYour finished height depends on your overall yurt size.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Secure the lattice wall to the door with the included hardware.\", \"描述\": \"Once your lattice wall is properly placed, you can attach it to the door. Remove the cap nuts, washers, and bolts located along the bottom of the lattice about every 6th crotch. Then, attach the lattice wall anchoring straps using the included screws. Hold the anchor into place, and line a screw up with the hole. Then, use your drill to secure the screw in place.\\nThe crotch of the lattice refers to where 2 pieces of wood intersect.\\nThese brackets are made so the screws go through the drip edge and the flooring material.\\nThe anchors and screws come in your yurt kit.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the belly bands to the door frames.\", \"描述\": \"Once the door frame and lattice walls are attached, make any final adjustments if you need to. Then, lay the belly band along the top of the lattice wall. Tie 1 end of the belly band to the hook in the top door frame, then feed the band through each crotch of the lattice. As you go, remove the slack in the line. Finally, tie the belly band to the opposite door frame hook when you reach the other side.\\nBelly bands are nylon or other stretchy, strong straps. They are usually 50 ft (15 m) long.\\nAlternatively, your kit may come with tension cables instead of belly bands. These often hook onto the door instead of tying to it.\\nAfter everything is securely fastened, make adjustments as needed to improve the shape of the yurt.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put on a hard hat before you start installing the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Treat the interior of the yurt as a hard-hat zone until the rafters are installed, as the rafters can fall on your head. Once the rafters are installed, you can take off your hard hat. While raising the center ring and installing the rafters is an exciting part of the assembly, it should be executed with care.\\nChildren or observers not involved with assembly should stay outside of the yurt.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay down the center ring and mark 3-4 evenly-spaced holes for the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"To easily install the center ring, keep the bolt heads down and the nutted ends up. Then, use a marker to make a spot for 3-4 evenly-spaced holes around the circle. The distance between each spot will depend on the size of your center ring. Then, mark each spot where the “set up “ rafters will rest on the cable, based on your instructions.\\nIf you need help with this step, take a look at your rafter spacing diagram.\\nYour marks are where you insert the “set up” rafters to raise the center ring.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach 3 of the rafters to the center ring.\", \"描述\": \"Align your rafter at 1 of the spots you made on the center ring. Use your hands to lift up the ring, and insert the pin of the rafter into the ring to attach it. Then, repeat the procedure for your second rafter. To attach the third rafter, raise the ring off of the ground. When you lift up the center ring, let the first 2 rafters support 1 side. Then, insert the pin of the third rafter into the marked hole. Lift the center ring into position using the third rafter. Maintain pressure on the first 2 rafters, and place the notched end of the rafter on the cable.\\nThere is a metal pin on the side of the rafter that easily slides into the center ring.\\nWhen attaching your rafters, be sure to follow the marked holes and cable spaces.\\nIt is helpful to have a friend stand close with another rafter to push the ring up. Until you have a few rafters in place, it may be a bit tricky.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide the remaining rafters into the top of the yurt.\", \"描述\": \"To insert the rafter, put the end with the pin in completely, move the other end to the cable, push the lattice wall slightly outward with your shoulder, and hook the rafter to the cable. Install the rafters over your doors as your final step, since these rafters help hold the belly band or tension cables in place. Keep your rafter pattern symmetrical to balance the weight and placement. It is also helpful to keep 2 lattice wall crotches in between each rafter.\\nOnce you angle the rafter correctly, the rafter easily slides into place. Do not force the rafter into the ring.\\nAlternatively, stand outside the structure, put the rafter over the lattice walls, and push the end into one of the slots along the roof ring.\\nWhen you have 4-6 rafters secure, the person holding the center support can let go and get out of the way.\\nThe number of rafters you need depends on your particular instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install a screw into the pre-drilled hole just below the belly band.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent the rafters from lifting up, use your drill to add the included screws to the underside of the rafter. To find the pre-drilled hole, look on the bottom of the rafter near the tension cable or belly band.\\nDo not use different or longer screws. The screw provided is the correct size for the pre-drilled hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the rafters to the door frame using header brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Each rafter has a slight notch to hold the tension cable or belly band in place against the door. Go inside the yurt, and place the header bracket onto the rafter on top of the door. Rest the flat side on top of the door header. Then, slide it forward so it is flush with the tension cable. Secure the brackets to the rafters using the included screws and your power drill.\\nBefore you fasten the header bracket to the door header, make sure the door is straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the safety cable to the rafters to hold them in the ring.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, remove the cable clamps from the safety cable, and thread the cable through the pre-drilled holes in the rafters. When you reach the starting point, bring the end of the cable through the loop on the opposite end, and pull it tightly. Reposition the cable clamps and tighten them so they are secure.\\nYou can then cut off any extra cable using a cable cutter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Securing the Cover\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install your roof insulation and liner facing if included in your kit.\", \"描述\": \"Not all yurts require insulation or lining, but they conserve heat and protect your yurt from the elements. Install your insulation on a day that is not very windy, and do this once the rafters are all in place. Use a step ladder to reach the top middle of your yurt, and spread the liner over the rafters. Have a friend pull the hemmed end around the rafter ends. Then, place the insulation on top of the liner. You can secure the upper area while your friend secures the perimeter.\\nTo secure the lining and insulation, use a staple gun to add a staple every 4–8 in (10–20 cm).\\nOnce the insulation seam is aligned properly, use the foil tape to secure the seam.\\nIf you’d like, trim the insulation around the door frame so it does not get in the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take out the cover and place a step ladder in the middle of your yurt.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the cover from the bag and get rid of the binding straps. The cover of your yurt is often in a bag made of the same material. Untie the straps around the cover. Then, place your step ladder inside your yurt so you can unroll the cover.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Unroll the covering toward the door frame.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, bring the top of the covering through the center ring opening. Once the covering is through the opening, you can let the covering unroll until it reaches your door.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Unfold your covering 2-3 times to begin wrapping the perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"As you stand on the step ladder, have a friend work around the perimeter. Once the covering is unrolled, unfold it 2-3 times to cover a bit in each direction. As you do this, look for the cut-out opening for the door in the top cover valance. The cut-out has many oval grommets, rather than round grommets. \\nEnsure the cut-out is centered over the door so you can easily install the rest of the covering.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Unfold half of the covering and secure it using connectors.\", \"描述\": \"Work with your friend to unfold the rest of the covering across the top and perimeter of the yurt. Once the covering is halfway unfolded and covers half of your rafters, install a 2-5 twist-lock connectors or S-clips to secure the top cover at the door.\\nSecuring the cover near the door keeps the door detail aligned.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pull the top layer of the cover over the center ring and down the other side.\", \"描述\": \"Then, tie a cord to a few of the grommets on the top cover. Use the cord to help pull the rest of the fabric over the center ring and around the perimeter. Finally, pull the outside edge around so it is snug around the ends of the rafters.\\nIt is imperative that the top cover is centered on the center ring and pulled down evenly. If not, your covering will be crooked.\\nYou do not need to fasten the cover to the center ring.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mark the oval grommet locations around the door to secure them.\", \"描述\": \"Once the covering is in place, inspect the door frame to make sure everything fits properly. Then, use a marker to indicate the oval grommet locations. Drill ⁄64 ft (0.033 m) pilot holes with the provided bits, and then fasten the twist-lock connectors.\\nIf you don’t drill pilot holes, you may break the twist-lock shank.\\nIf you overtighten the twist-lock connectors, you can also break the shank.\\nOnce your roof is in place, consult your instructions regarding any specific finishing touches.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Regardless of your experience level, research online and familiarize yourself with the process as much as possible before you begin. This way, you can do the best job the first time.\\n\", \"It is easiest to assemble the yurt with the help of 2-3 other people.\\n\", \"Position your yurt near a clean water supply so you can easily access it for cooking and cleaning purposes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you have any questions regarding the setup of your yurt kit, call the manufacturer for help.\\n\", \"It may take a few attempts to build the perfect yurt. Have patience and make adjustments as necessary.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Build an Acrylic Aquarium
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1. Choosing Acrylic Sheets
1-1. Calculate the right size of your aquarium to house your fish.
The ultimate size of your aquarium will depend on a number of important factors, such as the amount of space available in your home and the number and type of fish you’d like to keep.
The rule of thumb for determining proper aquarium size is to allocate 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water per 1 inch (2.5 cm) of maximum length for each fish.
Make sure you’re also able to allocate enough space for accessories for the aquarium, such as filters, tubing, and cords.
1-2. Buy enough acrylic sheets to meet the dimensions of your aquarium.
You can buy acrylic from a local plastic shop, or purchase it from an online retailer if need be.
For aquariums, most manufacturers recommend using Cell Cast acrylic sheet.
Many plastic shops will cut the acrylic for you for free if you tell them the dimensions you need the pieces to be. Consider going this route to save yourself time and energy.
1-3. Choose acrylic that’s thick enough based on the aquarium's height.
The thickness of the acrylic you’ll need to use will be directly dependent on the dimensions of the aquarium you’re building.
For aquariums 1 foot (0.30 m) or less in height, use acrylic that is .25 inches (0.64 cm) thick. For every additional 6 inches (15 cm) in height, make the acrylic an additional .125 inches (0.32 cm) thicker.
2. Cutting and Sanding the Acrylic
2-1. Assemble your materials in a spacious and open workspace.
Not only will you need ample workspace to construct your aquarium, but cutting acrylic produces a strong and persistent odor. Consider carrying out this project outside or in a garage with good ventilation.
Because your project will involve cementing pieces together and waiting for them to dry before proceeding, make sure your materials are always nearby and that you won’t have to continually leave your workspace to fetch what you need.
2-2. Use a table saw to cut your acrylic into pieces.
This is only necessary if you didn’t or couldn’t cut your acrylic at the plastic shop. Use a table saw with closely spaced teeth to avoid chipping the plastic.
Measure and mark the acrylic before cutting it, according to the dimensions you determined earlier.
Cut your acrylic into 5 pieces: 1 piece to serve as the bottom of the tank; 2 longer pieces to serve as the front and back of the tank; and 2 shorter pieces to serve as the sides.
Make sure the front and back pieces are equal to each other in length. Do the same for the 2 shorter pieces.
2-3. Use sandpaper to smooth out the edges of your acrylic pieces.
You’ll need to make sure the edges of your acrylic are smooth and finished before attaching them together. Sanding will also remove unsightly cutting marks.
Lay a sheet of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat work surface. Holding the acrylic vertically, run the edge along the sandpaper to achieve the desired effect.
In order to keep the acrylic edge flat and square during the sanding process, and to avoid unintentional scuff marks on the plastic, hold it up next to a flat piece of 2x4 lumber while moving it along the sandpaper.
3. Assembling Your Aquarium
3-1. Place your bottom piece on a sturdy, level area.
You’ll need to work on a flat surface that will support your acrylic and keep it level for hours at a time.
Your aquarium will need to be kept on a stand to prevent the bottom of the tank from bending under the weight of the water. Consider building your aquarium on the surface you intend to ultimately place it in your home, to avoid moving the aquarium after completion.
3-2. Attach the back piece to the bottom, placing small pins between them.
You can use tape or a clamp to attach the pieces together. What’s most important is that you place several pins between the pieces to leave a small amount of space between them.
While tape will allow you more dexterity, clamps will prevent the pieces from sliding around on the pins.
Use ordinary size-17 ball head pins that are roughly 1.0625 inches (26.99 mm) long in between the acrylic pieces. These can be bought at any home improvement store or mass retail store.
Place the pins across the joint between the pieces at even intervals. Place enough to ensure you’ll have enough room to apply cement between the pieces of acrylic.
3-3. Use acrylic cement to glue the back piece of acrylic to the bottom piece.
Remove the pins from between the joints as you apply the cement. Let the cement dry for four hours before proceeding to the next step.
Use a syringe filled with acrylic cement to insert the cement into the joint.
After the cement has been applied, immediately remove the pins. The cement will then fuse together and begin welding the plastic pieces to one another.
The pins should be removed within 30 to 60 seconds of applying the cement.
3-4. Repeat this process for the front and side pieces of acrylic.
Make sure you wait 4 hours before cementing each individual piece of acrylic to yield the best results. After this process the basic structure of your aquarium will be finished.
You can also cut and attach a top piece of acrylic to your aquarium, fitted out with holes and openings for a lid, tubing, and other accessories. However, this is not absolutely necessary.
3-5. Test your aquarium for structural integrity.
You’ll need to make sure there are no gaps in your aquarium that may lead to leaks or cause your aquarium to fall apart. Wait at least 48 hours for the aquarium to cure before testing it.
A convenient way to test the aquarium is to place it in a bathtub full of water and lay newspaper at the bottom of the tank. If the newspaper gets wet, you’ll know your aquarium has a leak.
You can also test your aquarium by filling it with water, although this method may prove more cumbersome and ultimately damaging to the stand supporting the aquarium if you should find a leak.
Tips
After purchasing your acrylic, carry out a dry run by taping the pieces together with masking tape to ensure that they will all fit together. If you find out they won’t fit after already beginning the welding process, you won’t be able to separate the pieces without breaking them.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Acrylic Sheets\\n1-1. Calculate the right size of your aquarium to house your fish.\\nThe ultimate size of your aquarium will depend on a number of important factors, such as the amount of space available in your home and the number and type of fish you’d like to keep.\\nThe rule of thumb for determining proper aquarium size is to allocate 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water per 1 inch (2.5 cm) of maximum length for each fish.\\nMake sure you’re also able to allocate enough space for accessories for the aquarium, such as filters, tubing, and cords.\\n1-2. Buy enough acrylic sheets to meet the dimensions of your aquarium.\\nYou can buy acrylic from a local plastic shop, or purchase it from an online retailer if need be.\\nFor aquariums, most manufacturers recommend using Cell Cast acrylic sheet.\\nMany plastic shops will cut the acrylic for you for free if you tell them the dimensions you need the pieces to be. Consider going this route to save yourself time and energy.\\n1-3. Choose acrylic that’s thick enough based on the aquarium's height.\\nThe thickness of the acrylic you’ll need to use will be directly dependent on the dimensions of the aquarium you’re building.\\nFor aquariums 1 foot (0.30 m) or less in height, use acrylic that is .25 inches (0.64 cm) thick. For every additional 6 inches (15 cm) in height, make the acrylic an additional .125 inches (0.32 cm) thicker.\\n2. Cutting and Sanding the Acrylic\\n2-1. Assemble your materials in a spacious and open workspace.\\nNot only will you need ample workspace to construct your aquarium, but cutting acrylic produces a strong and persistent odor. Consider carrying out this project outside or in a garage with good ventilation.\\nBecause your project will involve cementing pieces together and waiting for them to dry before proceeding, make sure your materials are always nearby and that you won’t have to continually leave your workspace to fetch what you need.\\n2-2. Use a table saw to cut your acrylic into pieces.\\nThis is only necessary if you didn’t or couldn’t cut your acrylic at the plastic shop. Use a table saw with closely spaced teeth to avoid chipping the plastic.\\nMeasure and mark the acrylic before cutting it, according to the dimensions you determined earlier.\\nCut your acrylic into 5 pieces: 1 piece to serve as the bottom of the tank; 2 longer pieces to serve as the front and back of the tank; and 2 shorter pieces to serve as the sides.\\nMake sure the front and back pieces are equal to each other in length. Do the same for the 2 shorter pieces.\\n2-3. Use sandpaper to smooth out the edges of your acrylic pieces.\\nYou’ll need to make sure the edges of your acrylic are smooth and finished before attaching them together. Sanding will also remove unsightly cutting marks.\\nLay a sheet of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat work surface. Holding the acrylic vertically, run the edge along the sandpaper to achieve the desired effect.\\nIn order to keep the acrylic edge flat and square during the sanding process, and to avoid unintentional scuff marks on the plastic, hold it up next to a flat piece of 2x4 lumber while moving it along the sandpaper.\\n3. Assembling Your Aquarium\\n3-1. Place your bottom piece on a sturdy, level area.\\nYou’ll need to work on a flat surface that will support your acrylic and keep it level for hours at a time.\\nYour aquarium will need to be kept on a stand to prevent the bottom of the tank from bending under the weight of the water. Consider building your aquarium on the surface you intend to ultimately place it in your home, to avoid moving the aquarium after completion.\\n3-2. Attach the back piece to the bottom, placing small pins between them.\\nYou can use tape or a clamp to attach the pieces together. What’s most important is that you place several pins between the pieces to leave a small amount of space between them.\\nWhile tape will allow you more dexterity, clamps will prevent the pieces from sliding around on the pins.\\nUse ordinary size-17 ball head pins that are roughly 1.0625 inches (26.99 mm) long in between the acrylic pieces. These can be bought at any home improvement store or mass retail store.\\nPlace the pins across the joint between the pieces at even intervals. Place enough to ensure you’ll have enough room to apply cement between the pieces of acrylic.\\n3-3. Use acrylic cement to glue the back piece of acrylic to the bottom piece.\\nRemove the pins from between the joints as you apply the cement. Let the cement dry for four hours before proceeding to the next step.\\nUse a syringe filled with acrylic cement to insert the cement into the joint.\\nAfter the cement has been applied, immediately remove the pins. The cement will then fuse together and begin welding the plastic pieces to one another.\\nThe pins should be removed within 30 to 60 seconds of applying the cement.\\n3-4. Repeat this process for the front and side pieces of acrylic.\\nMake sure you wait 4 hours before cementing each individual piece of acrylic to yield the best results. After this process the basic structure of your aquarium will be finished.\\nYou can also cut and attach a top piece of acrylic to your aquarium, fitted out with holes and openings for a lid, tubing, and other accessories. However, this is not absolutely necessary.\\n3-5. Test your aquarium for structural integrity.\\nYou’ll need to make sure there are no gaps in your aquarium that may lead to leaks or cause your aquarium to fall apart. Wait at least 48 hours for the aquarium to cure before testing it.\\nA convenient way to test the aquarium is to place it in a bathtub full of water and lay newspaper at the bottom of the tank. If the newspaper gets wet, you’ll know your aquarium has a leak.\\nYou can also test your aquarium by filling it with water, although this method may prove more cumbersome and ultimately damaging to the stand supporting the aquarium if you should find a leak.\\nTips\\nAfter purchasing your acrylic, carry out a dry run by taping the pieces together with masking tape to ensure that they will all fit together. If you find out they won’t fit after already beginning the welding process, you won’t be able to separate the pieces without breaking them.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re planning to build your own aquarium, you may be considering opting for acrylic instead of glass. Not only is acrylic lighter than glass and less likely to shatter, but it’s also easily molded, making it an ideal choice for a do-it-yourself aquarium project. With some basic carpentry skills and a little elbow grease, building your own acrylic aquarium can be an easy, rewarding, and cost-effective project for the would-be aquarium enthusiast.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Acrylic Sheets\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Calculate the right size of your aquarium to house your fish.\", \"描述\": \"The ultimate size of your aquarium will depend on a number of important factors, such as the amount of space available in your home and the number and type of fish you’d like to keep.\\nThe rule of thumb for determining proper aquarium size is to allocate 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water per 1 inch (2.5 cm) of maximum length for each fish.\\nMake sure you’re also able to allocate enough space for accessories for the aquarium, such as filters, tubing, and cords.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy enough acrylic sheets to meet the dimensions of your aquarium.\", \"描述\": \"You can buy acrylic from a local plastic shop, or purchase it from an online retailer if need be.\\nFor aquariums, most manufacturers recommend using Cell Cast acrylic sheet.\\nMany plastic shops will cut the acrylic for you for free if you tell them the dimensions you need the pieces to be. Consider going this route to save yourself time and energy.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose acrylic that’s thick enough based on the aquarium's height.\", \"描述\": \"The thickness of the acrylic you’ll need to use will be directly dependent on the dimensions of the aquarium you’re building.\\nFor aquariums 1 foot (0.30 m) or less in height, use acrylic that is .25 inches (0.64 cm) thick. For every additional 6 inches (15 cm) in height, make the acrylic an additional .125 inches (0.32 cm) thicker.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cutting and Sanding the Acrylic\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble your materials in a spacious and open workspace.\", \"描述\": \"Not only will you need ample workspace to construct your aquarium, but cutting acrylic produces a strong and persistent odor. Consider carrying out this project outside or in a garage with good ventilation.\\nBecause your project will involve cementing pieces together and waiting for them to dry before proceeding, make sure your materials are always nearby and that you won’t have to continually leave your workspace to fetch what you need.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a table saw to cut your acrylic into pieces.\", \"描述\": \"This is only necessary if you didn’t or couldn’t cut your acrylic at the plastic shop. Use a table saw with closely spaced teeth to avoid chipping the plastic.\\nMeasure and mark the acrylic before cutting it, according to the dimensions you determined earlier.\\nCut your acrylic into 5 pieces: 1 piece to serve as the bottom of the tank; 2 longer pieces to serve as the front and back of the tank; and 2 shorter pieces to serve as the sides.\\nMake sure the front and back pieces are equal to each other in length. Do the same for the 2 shorter pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use sandpaper to smooth out the edges of your acrylic pieces.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to make sure the edges of your acrylic are smooth and finished before attaching them together. Sanding will also remove unsightly cutting marks.\\nLay a sheet of 320 grit sandpaper on a flat work surface. Holding the acrylic vertically, run the edge along the sandpaper to achieve the desired effect.\\nIn order to keep the acrylic edge flat and square during the sanding process, and to avoid unintentional scuff marks on the plastic, hold it up next to a flat piece of 2x4 lumber while moving it along the sandpaper.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling Your Aquarium\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place your bottom piece on a sturdy, level area.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to work on a flat surface that will support your acrylic and keep it level for hours at a time.\\nYour aquarium will need to be kept on a stand to prevent the bottom of the tank from bending under the weight of the water. Consider building your aquarium on the surface you intend to ultimately place it in your home, to avoid moving the aquarium after completion.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the back piece to the bottom, placing small pins between them.\", \"描述\": \"You can use tape or a clamp to attach the pieces together. What’s most important is that you place several pins between the pieces to leave a small amount of space between them.\\nWhile tape will allow you more dexterity, clamps will prevent the pieces from sliding around on the pins.\\nUse ordinary size-17 ball head pins that are roughly 1.0625 inches (26.99 mm) long in between the acrylic pieces. These can be bought at any home improvement store or mass retail store.\\nPlace the pins across the joint between the pieces at even intervals. Place enough to ensure you’ll have enough room to apply cement between the pieces of acrylic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use acrylic cement to glue the back piece of acrylic to the bottom piece.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the pins from between the joints as you apply the cement. Let the cement dry for four hours before proceeding to the next step.\\nUse a syringe filled with acrylic cement to insert the cement into the joint.\\nAfter the cement has been applied, immediately remove the pins. The cement will then fuse together and begin welding the plastic pieces to one another.\\nThe pins should be removed within 30 to 60 seconds of applying the cement.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat this process for the front and side pieces of acrylic.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you wait 4 hours before cementing each individual piece of acrylic to yield the best results. After this process the basic structure of your aquarium will be finished.\\nYou can also cut and attach a top piece of acrylic to your aquarium, fitted out with holes and openings for a lid, tubing, and other accessories. However, this is not absolutely necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test your aquarium for structural integrity.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to make sure there are no gaps in your aquarium that may lead to leaks or cause your aquarium to fall apart. Wait at least 48 hours for the aquarium to cure before testing it.\\nA convenient way to test the aquarium is to place it in a bathtub full of water and lay newspaper at the bottom of the tank. If the newspaper gets wet, you’ll know your aquarium has a leak.\\nYou can also test your aquarium by filling it with water, although this method may prove more cumbersome and ultimately damaging to the stand supporting the aquarium if you should find a leak.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"After purchasing your acrylic, carry out a dry run by taping the pieces together with masking tape to ensure that they will all fit together. If you find out they won’t fit after already beginning the welding process, you won’t be able to separate the pieces without breaking them.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,637 |
How to Build an Adjustable Dog Agility Seesaw
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1. Assembling the Stands
1-1. Trim a length of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make the base and the upright for your stand.
Use a handsaw, jigsaw, or circular saw to cut a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) piece of lumber to be 40 in (100 cm) in length. Then, cut another piece that is 28 in (71 cm) long for the upright. Use a measuring tape and pencil to make sure your measurements are exact.
Use clamps to hold the wood in place while you are cutting it. This will help ensure that your cuts are perfectly straight.
If you are using an electric saw, make sure you follow the recommended safety procedure outlined in the manual for your saw. Wear protective eyewear and keep your hands away from the blade at all times.
The “upright” is the piece of wood which will stand upright on your seesaw base. It is the piece of wood which is 28 inches (71 cm) in length, with the 40 in (100 cm) piece being the base.
1-2. Line up the face of the upright with the middle of the base.
Turn the 40 in (100 cm) length of wood to sit on the 2 in (5.1 cm) wide face. Mark a point 20 inches (51 cm) from one end of the wood. Set the other piece of wood perpendicular to the base, centering it in front of the mark you made in the middle of the wood.
The 2 pieces of wood should look like an upside down letter “T”, with the upright sitting behind the base rather than on top of it.
1-3. Use wood glue to hold the upright to the base.
Use a base piece as a ruler to mark a line on the outside of the upright. Pull the upright away from the base and coat the area below the line with a thin layer of wood glue. Press the 2 pieces back together, making sure the bottom sides of each are flush with the ground.
It might help to use a clamp to hold the 2 pieces of wood together as the glue dries.
For the best results, use waterproof wood glue designed for outdoor use. It should be available online or at your local hardware store.
1-4. Screw the upright to the base.
While the glue will help keep the 2 pieces of wood together, they will need to be held more tightly to work as a reliable base for your seesaw. Use an electric drill to screw at least 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the upright and into the base of your stand.
To keep the screws spaced perfectly, place them 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edges of the wood in opposite corners. However, as long as you have more than 1 screw through the wood, the exact spacing shouldn't matter too much.
To make sure the screws go in straight, drill a pilot hole first. Use a drill bit a little bit smaller than the thickness of your chosen screw to drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole into the wood.
The more screws you use, the more secure the stand of your base will be. In most cases, 2 screws installed diagonally from each other will be enough to hold the stand steady.
You could also use nails to hold the upright to the stand, but they are often more difficult to work with.
1-5. Saw 2 lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make supports.
These pieces will be the diagonal supports opposite the 2 right angles on each side of your upright. Measure and mark out 2 30 in (76 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood, and cut them to length with a hand or electric saw.
Once you measure and cut 1 piece of wood, you can use it as a guide to cut the other piece.
The pieces of wood don't need to be exactly 30 inches (76 cm) long, but should be between 26 and 32 inches (66 and 81 cm). It is more important that the 2 lengths of wood are the same size so your base remains even.
1-6. Cut a 45-degree angle at each end of the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut.
Use a protractor or another similar tool to measure and mark a 45-degree angle at each end of each of your supports. Use a handsaw, jigsaw, or miter saw to cut through the mark, starting at the bottom corner of the wood and ending roughly 4 inches (10 cm) along the top edge.
Your cut lengths of wood should be very long isosceles trapezoids. This means they will have 2 parallel sides, one of them being shorter than the other due to the angled edges.
The cuts should go in opposite directions, both moving towards the top center of the wood.
1-7. Glue and screw the supports between the base and the upright.
Glue the 2 wooden supports so they sit flush against the side of the upright and the inside face of the base. Use 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to hold the bottom of the support to the base. Drill another screw through the side of the support and into the side of the upright.
Make sure that the screw that goes through the support and into the upright remains centered in both pieces of wood. If your screw is misaligned, you may risk cracking the wood.
Drill pilot holes into the wood beforehand to make inserting the screws easier.
1-8. Repeat the same process to make a second stand.
In order to create a steady base, you will need 2 identical stands that mirror each other. Cut some more wood to the same length and assemble it in the same fashion as your first stand to create another.
Your stands will need to be almost perfectly identical. If they are too different, your seesaw may not sit evenly on the base, or it may break more easily.
When finished, the 2 stands should be a mirror image of the other. Sit them so the uprights are facing inwards toward each other, with the base pieces sitting on the outside.
2. Connecting the Stands
2-1. Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to connect the stands.
Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure out and mark 2 17 in (43 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm). Use a hand or electric saw to cut the 2 pieces to length, keeping the cuts as straight as possible.
Use a clamp to hold the wood perfectly still as you cut it.
Make sure that the 2 pieces of wood are the same length. To make this easier, cut and measure 1 piece of wood to use as a guide when cutting the second length.
2-2. Place the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut on either side of one upright.
Turn one of the stands towards your body, with the sides of the upright exposed. Place 1 piece of wood on either side of the upright, pressing it right into the corner between the upright and the base.
Make sure the 2 pieces of wood sit flush against the side of the base and the bottom of the stand.
2-3. Glue and screw the wood into the uprights.
Coat the side and end of both pieces of wood with a thin layer of wood glue and press them back into place. Use an electric drill to drill 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through each piece of wood and into the upright.
Drill the 2 screws into the wood on a diagonal from each other. To make sure you don't hit 1 screw with another from the other side, use the opposite diagonal for the other side.
2-4. Connect the loose end of the wood to the other upright.
Position the other stand so the upright is parallel with the upright on the other stand. Move the second stand into place between the 2 pieces of wood so that it is identical to the first stand. Use the same method as the first stand to glue and screw the base together.
The upright should fit perfectly between the 2 pieces of wood.
This should create a single seesaw base. The fulcrum with the seesaw board will sit between the 2 uprights.
3. Attaching the Seesaw
3-1. Cut a piece of 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) wood to make the seesaw plank.
The planks for an official dog agility seesaw are usually 12 feet (3.7 m) in length. Purchase a long 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) plank of wood online or from your local hardware store. If the plank isn't the right length, measure it and trim it to size with a handsaw or jigsaw.
In some longer planks, the wood will begin to crack towards the end. To prevent this from happening with your seesaw plank, purchase a piece of wood that is 14 feet (4.3 m) long and trim 1 foot (0.30 m) off of each end to remove and halt any cracking.
Avoid using pressure-treated wood for your plank, as it will be too heavy. If you need to waterproof the plank, paint it with waterproof paint or sealant.
3-2. Mark a line 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the mid-point of the plank.
The seesaw is a one-way obstacle on an agility course, meaning one end should always be lower than the other when not in use. Use a measuring tape to find the mid-point of the plank. Move 2 inches (5.1 cm) towards one end of the plank and draw a line to mark the fulcrum.
Moving the fulcrum of the plank closer to one end will make sure that the longer side always sits on the ground when the seesaw isn't in use.
If you move too far away from the mid-point, the plank may fall too slowly as your dog walks over it, or it may begin to lift up while your dog is still on it. Don't make the mark more than 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the center of the plank.
3-3. Screw 3 ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe straps along the marked line on the plank.
Measure along the marked line of your plank to find the middle. Place a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe strap on the mid-point and screw it into place with 2 1 in (2.5 cm) wood screws. Attach 2 more pipe straps along the same line, roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the first strap.
The pipe straps will be used to hold the pipe that works as a fulcrum for your seesaw.
Pipe straps should be available online or from your local hardware store. If you can't find ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe straps, you could also use ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) straps that aren't screwed into the plank as tightly.
To make sure the pipe fits in the pipe straps properly, place it on the line you have marked across the plank and screw in the pipe straps over the top of it. They should be loose enough that the pipe can still turn freely in the straps.
3-4. Mark 4 points along each upright to change the height of your seesaw.
By changing the height of the fulcrum in your seesaw, you change how difficult it is to get over. Use a measuring tape to mark 4 points along one of your uprights, noting the measurements as you go. Repeat the same process on the other side, making sure the marks are identical.
The standard heights for a dog agility seesaw are 8 inches (20 cm), 12 inches (30 cm), 18 inches (46 cm), and 24 inches (61 cm) from the ground. The lower heights can be used to train your dog, building its confidence towards the 24 in (61 cm) standard for most dog agility competitions.
If you want to use different measurements or mark a different number of points, you can easily do so. Make sure that the space between your marks remains at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick, and that the height of the holes is identical between the 2 sides of your base.
By moving the pipe on your plank between these points, you can change the height of your seesaw. Making the fulcrum of your seesaw higher will also make the plank steeper to walk on.
3-5. Drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole through the center of each mark.
Attach a 1 in (2.5 cm) paddle or spade bit to your electric drill. Place the point of the bit against the first point you marked and begin drilling through it to make a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole. Repeat the same process for each of the marks you made on both of the uprights.
3-6. Thread a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe through the holes and pipe straps.
Purchase a piece of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe that is roughly 18 inches (46 cm) in length. Use 1 hand to hold the plank so the pipe straps line up with 1 set of holes in your uprights. Thread the pipe into one hole, through the pipe straps, and out the opposing hole.
Once the pipe is in place, you should have a fully assembled and functional dog agility seesaw! At this point, you can leave the seesaw as it is and it will still work. However, it will be better protected and easier to use if you paint it properly and make the plank less slippery.
If your plank is too heavy, it may be difficult to adjust the height of the seesaw. Ask a friend or someone nearby to help hold the plank while you thread the pipe through.
Make sure you use a galvanized pipe, as other piping may not be strong enough to hold the weight of the plank and your dog.
4. Painting Your Dog Agility Seesaw
4-1. Mark the contact areas on each side of your seesaw plank.
The size of the contact area on each end of your plank varies between different dog agility associations. Measure the length of an appropriate contact area from each end of your plank and mark it with a pencil line. Here are a few examples of different contact area specifications.
The USDAA requires a contact area of 36 inches (91 cm).
The AKC requires a contact area that is 42 inches (110 cm) in length.
If you're not using your agility seesaw to practice for an official competition, the contact area can be anywhere between 32 to 46 inches (81 to 117 cm). Make sure it is the same on both ends of the plank to keep it looking even.
The contact area is the space at each end of your seesaw with which your dog must make contact to consider the obstacle completed. This ensures that your dog walks from one end of the seesaw to the other, rather than jumping on and off in the middle.
4-2. Paint each contact area with an even coat of paint.
Choose a latex or oil-based paint that is designed for outdoor use. Use a paintbrush or paint roller, cover the contact area on both ends of the board with a thin coat of paint.
Use a few bricks or a cinderblock to keep the ends of the seesaw from touching the ground while you paint it.
Most standard dog agility seesaws make the contact area bright yellow so that dogs can see it more easily.
To keep the lines between the contact area and the rest of the seesaw straight, wrap the edge of your contact area with masking or painter's tape.
4-3. Cover the unpainted area with a coat of paint in a contrasting color.
To keep your seesaw visually interesting for yourself and your dog, choose a color that contrasts with the paint for your contact areas to cover the rest of the board. Use latex or oil-based paint that is waterproof, applying a thin coat to the plank with a paintbrush or roller.
Standard dog agility seesaws will usually be yellow on each end and blue in the middle.
4-4. Leave the paint to dry for 3 to 4 hours.
Once you've painted your seesaw, leave it to sit in the sun for around 3 hours to allow the paint to dry. Keep the seesaw from moving as it dries, as anything that touches it might ruin your coat of paint.
Check the manufacturer's instructions on your specific brand of paint for more information on the expected drying times.
4-5. Add another coat of paint to both sections of the plank.
Use a clean paintbrush or roller to apply another coat of your chosen paint colors to each section of the seesaw plank. Work quickly to stop the paint from drying as you shift between each color.
Make sure the first coat of paint is dry before adding a second coat.
4-6. Sprinkle the plank evenly with play sand.
Adding a layer of sand to the wet paint will stop the plank from being slippery. While the paint is still wet, use your hands to begin sprinkling a thin layer play sand over the board. Continue adding sand until the board is evenly coated in a fine layer.
A 10 lb (4.5 kg) bag of play sand should be plenty to cover your seesaw. The exact amount needed will vary based on how liberally you apply it.
Play sand is fine and sterile sand usually used for sandpits or something similar would also work. Large bags of play sand should be available from your local hardware store.
Start adding sand to the board from the lower end of the seesaw. Otherwise, the weight of the sand might cause the board to move and damage your paint job.
4-7. Brush away excess sand once the paint has dried.
Leave the sanded paint to sit in the sun to dry for another 3 to 4 hours. When the paint is dry to the touch, use your hands to begin gently brushing away any sand that hasn't adhered to the coat of paint beneath it.
Make sure that the sand you brush away is taken off of the seesaw, rather than just pushed to a different section of it.
4-8. Add a third coat of paint and leave it to dry fully.
A third and final coat of paint will cover up some of the color of the sand, without taking away the extra grip that it adds to the seesaw. Use a paintbrush or roller to add another coat of paint to each of the areas of your seesaw. Leave it to dry for 3 to 4 hours before touching it again.
Make sure you give the final coat of paint plenty of time to dry before using the seesaw.
4-9. Remove the seesaw plank if you want to paint the base.
If you want to improve the look of the base of your seesaw, you can paint it with the same type of paint used for the middle of the board. Take out the pipe and remove the plank from the base. Paint the base with a paintbrush, making sure to get into every area to coat it evenly. Leave the paint to dry fully before reattaching the plank and pipe.
If you want to do more than 1 coat, make sure the paint is dry before applying another layer.
Make sure the paint is given plenty of time to dry. Even slightly wet paint may be easily damaged as you try to put the plank back in place.
Tips
Training your dog to use the seesaw may take a while. Have plenty of treats on hand to lure it onto the seesaw and to reward good behavior.
Any reliable and good-quality lumber will work excellently for this project. Avoid using pressure-treated wood for the plank, as this will be too heavy.
This project uses the specifications for a standard dog agility seesaw, according to the USDAA and the AKC. As such, it should be suitable for any dog that needs to be trained with an agility seesaw.
Warnings
Always wear protective eyewear when cutting or sawing wood.
Be careful when working with power tools. Avoid touching moving parts at all times to stay safe.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Stands\\n1-1. Trim a length of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make the base and the upright for your stand.\\nUse a handsaw, jigsaw, or circular saw to cut a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) piece of lumber to be 40 in (100 cm) in length. Then, cut another piece that is 28 in (71 cm) long for the upright. Use a measuring tape and pencil to make sure your measurements are exact.\\nUse clamps to hold the wood in place while you are cutting it. This will help ensure that your cuts are perfectly straight.\\nIf you are using an electric saw, make sure you follow the recommended safety procedure outlined in the manual for your saw. Wear protective eyewear and keep your hands away from the blade at all times.\\nThe “upright” is the piece of wood which will stand upright on your seesaw base. It is the piece of wood which is 28 inches (71 cm) in length, with the 40 in (100 cm) piece being the base.\\n1-2. Line up the face of the upright with the middle of the base.\\nTurn the 40 in (100 cm) length of wood to sit on the 2 in (5.1 cm) wide face. Mark a point 20 inches (51 cm) from one end of the wood. Set the other piece of wood perpendicular to the base, centering it in front of the mark you made in the middle of the wood.\\nThe 2 pieces of wood should look like an upside down letter “T”, with the upright sitting behind the base rather than on top of it.\\n1-3. Use wood glue to hold the upright to the base.\\nUse a base piece as a ruler to mark a line on the outside of the upright. Pull the upright away from the base and coat the area below the line with a thin layer of wood glue. Press the 2 pieces back together, making sure the bottom sides of each are flush with the ground.\\nIt might help to use a clamp to hold the 2 pieces of wood together as the glue dries.\\nFor the best results, use waterproof wood glue designed for outdoor use. It should be available online or at your local hardware store.\\n1-4. Screw the upright to the base.\\nWhile the glue will help keep the 2 pieces of wood together, they will need to be held more tightly to work as a reliable base for your seesaw. Use an electric drill to screw at least 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the upright and into the base of your stand.\\nTo keep the screws spaced perfectly, place them 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edges of the wood in opposite corners. However, as long as you have more than 1 screw through the wood, the exact spacing shouldn't matter too much.\\nTo make sure the screws go in straight, drill a pilot hole first. Use a drill bit a little bit smaller than the thickness of your chosen screw to drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole into the wood.\\nThe more screws you use, the more secure the stand of your base will be. In most cases, 2 screws installed diagonally from each other will be enough to hold the stand steady.\\nYou could also use nails to hold the upright to the stand, but they are often more difficult to work with.\\n1-5. Saw 2 lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make supports.\\nThese pieces will be the diagonal supports opposite the 2 right angles on each side of your upright. Measure and mark out 2 30 in (76 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood, and cut them to length with a hand or electric saw.\\nOnce you measure and cut 1 piece of wood, you can use it as a guide to cut the other piece.\\nThe pieces of wood don't need to be exactly 30 inches (76 cm) long, but should be between 26 and 32 inches (66 and 81 cm). It is more important that the 2 lengths of wood are the same size so your base remains even.\\n1-6. Cut a 45-degree angle at each end of the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut.\\nUse a protractor or another similar tool to measure and mark a 45-degree angle at each end of each of your supports. Use a handsaw, jigsaw, or miter saw to cut through the mark, starting at the bottom corner of the wood and ending roughly 4 inches (10 cm) along the top edge.\\nYour cut lengths of wood should be very long isosceles trapezoids. This means they will have 2 parallel sides, one of them being shorter than the other due to the angled edges.\\nThe cuts should go in opposite directions, both moving towards the top center of the wood.\\n1-7. Glue and screw the supports between the base and the upright.\\nGlue the 2 wooden supports so they sit flush against the side of the upright and the inside face of the base. Use 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to hold the bottom of the support to the base. Drill another screw through the side of the support and into the side of the upright.\\nMake sure that the screw that goes through the support and into the upright remains centered in both pieces of wood. If your screw is misaligned, you may risk cracking the wood.\\nDrill pilot holes into the wood beforehand to make inserting the screws easier.\\n1-8. Repeat the same process to make a second stand.\\nIn order to create a steady base, you will need 2 identical stands that mirror each other. Cut some more wood to the same length and assemble it in the same fashion as your first stand to create another.\\nYour stands will need to be almost perfectly identical. If they are too different, your seesaw may not sit evenly on the base, or it may break more easily.\\nWhen finished, the 2 stands should be a mirror image of the other. Sit them so the uprights are facing inwards toward each other, with the base pieces sitting on the outside.\\n2. Connecting the Stands\\n2-1. Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to connect the stands.\\nUse a measuring tape or ruler to measure out and mark 2 17 in (43 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm). Use a hand or electric saw to cut the 2 pieces to length, keeping the cuts as straight as possible.\\nUse a clamp to hold the wood perfectly still as you cut it.\\nMake sure that the 2 pieces of wood are the same length. To make this easier, cut and measure 1 piece of wood to use as a guide when cutting the second length.\\n2-2. Place the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut on either side of one upright.\\nTurn one of the stands towards your body, with the sides of the upright exposed. Place 1 piece of wood on either side of the upright, pressing it right into the corner between the upright and the base.\\nMake sure the 2 pieces of wood sit flush against the side of the base and the bottom of the stand.\\n2-3. Glue and screw the wood into the uprights.\\nCoat the side and end of both pieces of wood with a thin layer of wood glue and press them back into place. Use an electric drill to drill 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through each piece of wood and into the upright.\\nDrill the 2 screws into the wood on a diagonal from each other. To make sure you don't hit 1 screw with another from the other side, use the opposite diagonal for the other side.\\n2-4. Connect the loose end of the wood to the other upright.\\nPosition the other stand so the upright is parallel with the upright on the other stand. Move the second stand into place between the 2 pieces of wood so that it is identical to the first stand. Use the same method as the first stand to glue and screw the base together.\\nThe upright should fit perfectly between the 2 pieces of wood.\\nThis should create a single seesaw base. The fulcrum with the seesaw board will sit between the 2 uprights.\\n3. Attaching the Seesaw\\n3-1. Cut a piece of 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) wood to make the seesaw plank.\\nThe planks for an official dog agility seesaw are usually 12 feet (3.7 m) in length. Purchase a long 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) plank of wood online or from your local hardware store. If the plank isn't the right length, measure it and trim it to size with a handsaw or jigsaw.\\nIn some longer planks, the wood will begin to crack towards the end. To prevent this from happening with your seesaw plank, purchase a piece of wood that is 14 feet (4.3 m) long and trim 1 foot (0.30 m) off of each end to remove and halt any cracking.\\nAvoid using pressure-treated wood for your plank, as it will be too heavy. If you need to waterproof the plank, paint it with waterproof paint or sealant.\\n3-2. Mark a line 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the mid-point of the plank.\\nThe seesaw is a one-way obstacle on an agility course, meaning one end should always be lower than the other when not in use. Use a measuring tape to find the mid-point of the plank. Move 2 inches (5.1 cm) towards one end of the plank and draw a line to mark the fulcrum.\\nMoving the fulcrum of the plank closer to one end will make sure that the longer side always sits on the ground when the seesaw isn't in use.\\nIf you move too far away from the mid-point, the plank may fall too slowly as your dog walks over it, or it may begin to lift up while your dog is still on it. Don't make the mark more than 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the center of the plank.\\n3-3. Screw 3 ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe straps along the marked line on the plank.\\nMeasure along the marked line of your plank to find the middle. Place a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe strap on the mid-point and screw it into place with 2 1 in (2.5 cm) wood screws. Attach 2 more pipe straps along the same line, roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the first strap.\\nThe pipe straps will be used to hold the pipe that works as a fulcrum for your seesaw.\\nPipe straps should be available online or from your local hardware store. If you can't find ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe straps, you could also use ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) straps that aren't screwed into the plank as tightly.\\nTo make sure the pipe fits in the pipe straps properly, place it on the line you have marked across the plank and screw in the pipe straps over the top of it. They should be loose enough that the pipe can still turn freely in the straps.\\n3-4. Mark 4 points along each upright to change the height of your seesaw.\\nBy changing the height of the fulcrum in your seesaw, you change how difficult it is to get over. Use a measuring tape to mark 4 points along one of your uprights, noting the measurements as you go. Repeat the same process on the other side, making sure the marks are identical.\\nThe standard heights for a dog agility seesaw are 8 inches (20 cm), 12 inches (30 cm), 18 inches (46 cm), and 24 inches (61 cm) from the ground. The lower heights can be used to train your dog, building its confidence towards the 24 in (61 cm) standard for most dog agility competitions.\\nIf you want to use different measurements or mark a different number of points, you can easily do so. Make sure that the space between your marks remains at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick, and that the height of the holes is identical between the 2 sides of your base.\\nBy moving the pipe on your plank between these points, you can change the height of your seesaw. Making the fulcrum of your seesaw higher will also make the plank steeper to walk on.\\n3-5. Drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole through the center of each mark.\\nAttach a 1 in (2.5 cm) paddle or spade bit to your electric drill. Place the point of the bit against the first point you marked and begin drilling through it to make a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole. Repeat the same process for each of the marks you made on both of the uprights.\\n3-6. Thread a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe through the holes and pipe straps.\\nPurchase a piece of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe that is roughly 18 inches (46 cm) in length. Use 1 hand to hold the plank so the pipe straps line up with 1 set of holes in your uprights. Thread the pipe into one hole, through the pipe straps, and out the opposing hole.\\nOnce the pipe is in place, you should have a fully assembled and functional dog agility seesaw! At this point, you can leave the seesaw as it is and it will still work. However, it will be better protected and easier to use if you paint it properly and make the plank less slippery.\\nIf your plank is too heavy, it may be difficult to adjust the height of the seesaw. Ask a friend or someone nearby to help hold the plank while you thread the pipe through.\\nMake sure you use a galvanized pipe, as other piping may not be strong enough to hold the weight of the plank and your dog.\\n4. Painting Your Dog Agility Seesaw\\n4-1. Mark the contact areas on each side of your seesaw plank.\\nThe size of the contact area on each end of your plank varies between different dog agility associations. Measure the length of an appropriate contact area from each end of your plank and mark it with a pencil line. Here are a few examples of different contact area specifications.\\nThe USDAA requires a contact area of 36 inches (91 cm).\\nThe AKC requires a contact area that is 42 inches (110 cm) in length.\\nIf you're not using your agility seesaw to practice for an official competition, the contact area can be anywhere between 32 to 46 inches (81 to 117 cm). Make sure it is the same on both ends of the plank to keep it looking even.\\nThe contact area is the space at each end of your seesaw with which your dog must make contact to consider the obstacle completed. This ensures that your dog walks from one end of the seesaw to the other, rather than jumping on and off in the middle.\\n4-2. Paint each contact area with an even coat of paint.\\nChoose a latex or oil-based paint that is designed for outdoor use. Use a paintbrush or paint roller, cover the contact area on both ends of the board with a thin coat of paint.\\nUse a few bricks or a cinderblock to keep the ends of the seesaw from touching the ground while you paint it.\\nMost standard dog agility seesaws make the contact area bright yellow so that dogs can see it more easily.\\nTo keep the lines between the contact area and the rest of the seesaw straight, wrap the edge of your contact area with masking or painter's tape.\\n4-3. Cover the unpainted area with a coat of paint in a contrasting color.\\nTo keep your seesaw visually interesting for yourself and your dog, choose a color that contrasts with the paint for your contact areas to cover the rest of the board. Use latex or oil-based paint that is waterproof, applying a thin coat to the plank with a paintbrush or roller.\\nStandard dog agility seesaws will usually be yellow on each end and blue in the middle.\\n4-4. Leave the paint to dry for 3 to 4 hours.\\nOnce you've painted your seesaw, leave it to sit in the sun for around 3 hours to allow the paint to dry. Keep the seesaw from moving as it dries, as anything that touches it might ruin your coat of paint.\\nCheck the manufacturer's instructions on your specific brand of paint for more information on the expected drying times.\\n4-5. Add another coat of paint to both sections of the plank.\\nUse a clean paintbrush or roller to apply another coat of your chosen paint colors to each section of the seesaw plank. Work quickly to stop the paint from drying as you shift between each color.\\nMake sure the first coat of paint is dry before adding a second coat.\\n4-6. Sprinkle the plank evenly with play sand.\\nAdding a layer of sand to the wet paint will stop the plank from being slippery. While the paint is still wet, use your hands to begin sprinkling a thin layer play sand over the board. Continue adding sand until the board is evenly coated in a fine layer.\\nA 10 lb (4.5 kg) bag of play sand should be plenty to cover your seesaw. The exact amount needed will vary based on how liberally you apply it.\\nPlay sand is fine and sterile sand usually used for sandpits or something similar would also work. Large bags of play sand should be available from your local hardware store.\\nStart adding sand to the board from the lower end of the seesaw. Otherwise, the weight of the sand might cause the board to move and damage your paint job.\\n4-7. Brush away excess sand once the paint has dried.\\nLeave the sanded paint to sit in the sun to dry for another 3 to 4 hours. When the paint is dry to the touch, use your hands to begin gently brushing away any sand that hasn't adhered to the coat of paint beneath it.\\nMake sure that the sand you brush away is taken off of the seesaw, rather than just pushed to a different section of it.\\n4-8. Add a third coat of paint and leave it to dry fully.\\nA third and final coat of paint will cover up some of the color of the sand, without taking away the extra grip that it adds to the seesaw. Use a paintbrush or roller to add another coat of paint to each of the areas of your seesaw. Leave it to dry for 3 to 4 hours before touching it again.\\nMake sure you give the final coat of paint plenty of time to dry before using the seesaw.\\n4-9. Remove the seesaw plank if you want to paint the base.\\nIf you want to improve the look of the base of your seesaw, you can paint it with the same type of paint used for the middle of the board. Take out the pipe and remove the plank from the base. Paint the base with a paintbrush, making sure to get into every area to coat it evenly. Leave the paint to dry fully before reattaching the plank and pipe.\\nIf you want to do more than 1 coat, make sure the paint is dry before applying another layer.\\nMake sure the paint is given plenty of time to dry. Even slightly wet paint may be easily damaged as you try to put the plank back in place.\\nTips\\nTraining your dog to use the seesaw may take a while. Have plenty of treats on hand to lure it onto the seesaw and to reward good behavior.\\nAny reliable and good-quality lumber will work excellently for this project. Avoid using pressure-treated wood for the plank, as this will be too heavy.\\nThis project uses the specifications for a standard dog agility seesaw, according to the USDAA and the AKC. As such, it should be suitable for any dog that needs to be trained with an agility seesaw.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear protective eyewear when cutting or sawing wood.\\nBe careful when working with power tools. Avoid touching moving parts at all times to stay safe.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dog agility seesaws are a common obstacle in almost any agility course your pup might be faced with. While you can buy seesaws designed and approved for competitions with the United States Dog Agility Association or the American Kennel Club, these can be expensive and difficult to move around. With a few pieces of wood, some play sand, a pipe, and a few other common construction tools, you can make an unofficial but high-quality dog agility seesaw that can be set at several different heights and levels of steepness.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Stands\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Trim a length of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make the base and the upright for your stand.\", \"描述\": \"Use a handsaw, jigsaw, or circular saw to cut a 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) piece of lumber to be 40 in (100 cm) in length. Then, cut another piece that is 28 in (71 cm) long for the upright. Use a measuring tape and pencil to make sure your measurements are exact.\\nUse clamps to hold the wood in place while you are cutting it. This will help ensure that your cuts are perfectly straight.\\nIf you are using an electric saw, make sure you follow the recommended safety procedure outlined in the manual for your saw. Wear protective eyewear and keep your hands away from the blade at all times.\\nThe “upright” is the piece of wood which will stand upright on your seesaw base. It is the piece of wood which is 28 inches (71 cm) in length, with the 40 in (100 cm) piece being the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line up the face of the upright with the middle of the base.\", \"描述\": \"Turn the 40 in (100 cm) length of wood to sit on the 2 in (5.1 cm) wide face. Mark a point 20 inches (51 cm) from one end of the wood. Set the other piece of wood perpendicular to the base, centering it in front of the mark you made in the middle of the wood.\\nThe 2 pieces of wood should look like an upside down letter “T”, with the upright sitting behind the base rather than on top of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use wood glue to hold the upright to the base.\", \"描述\": \"Use a base piece as a ruler to mark a line on the outside of the upright. Pull the upright away from the base and coat the area below the line with a thin layer of wood glue. Press the 2 pieces back together, making sure the bottom sides of each are flush with the ground.\\nIt might help to use a clamp to hold the 2 pieces of wood together as the glue dries.\\nFor the best results, use waterproof wood glue designed for outdoor use. It should be available online or at your local hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the upright to the base.\", \"描述\": \"While the glue will help keep the 2 pieces of wood together, they will need to be held more tightly to work as a reliable base for your seesaw. Use an electric drill to screw at least 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the upright and into the base of your stand.\\nTo keep the screws spaced perfectly, place them 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edges of the wood in opposite corners. However, as long as you have more than 1 screw through the wood, the exact spacing shouldn't matter too much.\\nTo make sure the screws go in straight, drill a pilot hole first. Use a drill bit a little bit smaller than the thickness of your chosen screw to drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole into the wood.\\nThe more screws you use, the more secure the stand of your base will be. In most cases, 2 screws installed diagonally from each other will be enough to hold the stand steady.\\nYou could also use nails to hold the upright to the stand, but they are often more difficult to work with.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Saw 2 lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to make supports.\", \"描述\": \"These pieces will be the diagonal supports opposite the 2 right angles on each side of your upright. Measure and mark out 2 30 in (76 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood, and cut them to length with a hand or electric saw.\\nOnce you measure and cut 1 piece of wood, you can use it as a guide to cut the other piece.\\nThe pieces of wood don't need to be exactly 30 inches (76 cm) long, but should be between 26 and 32 inches (66 and 81 cm). It is more important that the 2 lengths of wood are the same size so your base remains even.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut a 45-degree angle at each end of the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut.\", \"描述\": \"Use a protractor or another similar tool to measure and mark a 45-degree angle at each end of each of your supports. Use a handsaw, jigsaw, or miter saw to cut through the mark, starting at the bottom corner of the wood and ending roughly 4 inches (10 cm) along the top edge.\\nYour cut lengths of wood should be very long isosceles trapezoids. This means they will have 2 parallel sides, one of them being shorter than the other due to the angled edges.\\nThe cuts should go in opposite directions, both moving towards the top center of the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Glue and screw the supports between the base and the upright.\", \"描述\": \"Glue the 2 wooden supports so they sit flush against the side of the upright and the inside face of the base. Use 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws to hold the bottom of the support to the base. Drill another screw through the side of the support and into the side of the upright.\\nMake sure that the screw that goes through the support and into the upright remains centered in both pieces of wood. If your screw is misaligned, you may risk cracking the wood.\\nDrill pilot holes into the wood beforehand to make inserting the screws easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Repeat the same process to make a second stand.\", \"描述\": \"In order to create a steady base, you will need 2 identical stands that mirror each other. Cut some more wood to the same length and assemble it in the same fashion as your first stand to create another.\\nYour stands will need to be almost perfectly identical. If they are too different, your seesaw may not sit evenly on the base, or it may break more easily.\\nWhen finished, the 2 stands should be a mirror image of the other. Sit them so the uprights are facing inwards toward each other, with the base pieces sitting on the outside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connecting the Stands\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pieces of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm) wood to connect the stands.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure out and mark 2 17 in (43 cm) lengths of 2 by 4 in (5.1 by 10.2 cm). Use a hand or electric saw to cut the 2 pieces to length, keeping the cuts as straight as possible.\\nUse a clamp to hold the wood perfectly still as you cut it.\\nMake sure that the 2 pieces of wood are the same length. To make this easier, cut and measure 1 piece of wood to use as a guide when cutting the second length.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the 2 pieces of wood you've just cut on either side of one upright.\", \"描述\": \"Turn one of the stands towards your body, with the sides of the upright exposed. Place 1 piece of wood on either side of the upright, pressing it right into the corner between the upright and the base.\\nMake sure the 2 pieces of wood sit flush against the side of the base and the bottom of the stand.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue and screw the wood into the uprights.\", \"描述\": \"Coat the side and end of both pieces of wood with a thin layer of wood glue and press them back into place. Use an electric drill to drill 2 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through each piece of wood and into the upright.\\nDrill the 2 screws into the wood on a diagonal from each other. To make sure you don't hit 1 screw with another from the other side, use the opposite diagonal for the other side.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the loose end of the wood to the other upright.\", \"描述\": \"Position the other stand so the upright is parallel with the upright on the other stand. Move the second stand into place between the 2 pieces of wood so that it is identical to the first stand. Use the same method as the first stand to glue and screw the base together.\\nThe upright should fit perfectly between the 2 pieces of wood.\\nThis should create a single seesaw base. The fulcrum with the seesaw board will sit between the 2 uprights.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Seesaw\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a piece of 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) wood to make the seesaw plank.\", \"描述\": \"The planks for an official dog agility seesaw are usually 12 feet (3.7 m) in length. Purchase a long 2 by 12 in (5.1 by 30.5 cm) plank of wood online or from your local hardware store. If the plank isn't the right length, measure it and trim it to size with a handsaw or jigsaw.\\nIn some longer planks, the wood will begin to crack towards the end. To prevent this from happening with your seesaw plank, purchase a piece of wood that is 14 feet (4.3 m) long and trim 1 foot (0.30 m) off of each end to remove and halt any cracking.\\nAvoid using pressure-treated wood for your plank, as it will be too heavy. If you need to waterproof the plank, paint it with waterproof paint or sealant.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark a line 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the mid-point of the plank.\", \"描述\": \"The seesaw is a one-way obstacle on an agility course, meaning one end should always be lower than the other when not in use. Use a measuring tape to find the mid-point of the plank. Move 2 inches (5.1 cm) towards one end of the plank and draw a line to mark the fulcrum.\\nMoving the fulcrum of the plank closer to one end will make sure that the longer side always sits on the ground when the seesaw isn't in use.\\nIf you move too far away from the mid-point, the plank may fall too slowly as your dog walks over it, or it may begin to lift up while your dog is still on it. Don't make the mark more than 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the center of the plank.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw 3 ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) pipe straps along the marked line on the plank.\", \"描述\": \"Measure along the marked line of your plank to find the middle. Place a ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe strap on the mid-point and screw it into place with 2 1 in (2.5 cm) wood screws. Attach 2 more pipe straps along the same line, roughly 4 inches (10 cm) away from the first strap.\\nThe pipe straps will be used to hold the pipe that works as a fulcrum for your seesaw.\\nPipe straps should be available online or from your local hardware store. If you can't find ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) pipe straps, you could also use ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) straps that aren't screwed into the plank as tightly.\\nTo make sure the pipe fits in the pipe straps properly, place it on the line you have marked across the plank and screw in the pipe straps over the top of it. They should be loose enough that the pipe can still turn freely in the straps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark 4 points along each upright to change the height of your seesaw.\", \"描述\": \"By changing the height of the fulcrum in your seesaw, you change how difficult it is to get over. Use a measuring tape to mark 4 points along one of your uprights, noting the measurements as you go. Repeat the same process on the other side, making sure the marks are identical.\\nThe standard heights for a dog agility seesaw are 8 inches (20 cm), 12 inches (30 cm), 18 inches (46 cm), and 24 inches (61 cm) from the ground. The lower heights can be used to train your dog, building its confidence towards the 24 in (61 cm) standard for most dog agility competitions.\\nIf you want to use different measurements or mark a different number of points, you can easily do so. Make sure that the space between your marks remains at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) thick, and that the height of the holes is identical between the 2 sides of your base.\\nBy moving the pipe on your plank between these points, you can change the height of your seesaw. Making the fulcrum of your seesaw higher will also make the plank steeper to walk on.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a 1 inch (2.5 cm) hole through the center of each mark.\", \"描述\": \"Attach a 1 in (2.5 cm) paddle or spade bit to your electric drill. Place the point of the bit against the first point you marked and begin drilling through it to make a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole. Repeat the same process for each of the marks you made on both of the uprights.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Thread a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe through the holes and pipe straps.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a piece of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) galvanized pipe that is roughly 18 inches (46 cm) in length. Use 1 hand to hold the plank so the pipe straps line up with 1 set of holes in your uprights. Thread the pipe into one hole, through the pipe straps, and out the opposing hole.\\nOnce the pipe is in place, you should have a fully assembled and functional dog agility seesaw! At this point, you can leave the seesaw as it is and it will still work. However, it will be better protected and easier to use if you paint it properly and make the plank less slippery.\\nIf your plank is too heavy, it may be difficult to adjust the height of the seesaw. Ask a friend or someone nearby to help hold the plank while you thread the pipe through.\\nMake sure you use a galvanized pipe, as other piping may not be strong enough to hold the weight of the plank and your dog.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Painting Your Dog Agility Seesaw\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark the contact areas on each side of your seesaw plank.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the contact area on each end of your plank varies between different dog agility associations. Measure the length of an appropriate contact area from each end of your plank and mark it with a pencil line. Here are a few examples of different contact area specifications.\\nThe USDAA requires a contact area of 36 inches (91 cm).\\nThe AKC requires a contact area that is 42 inches (110 cm) in length.\\nIf you're not using your agility seesaw to practice for an official competition, the contact area can be anywhere between 32 to 46 inches (81 to 117 cm). Make sure it is the same on both ends of the plank to keep it looking even.\\nThe contact area is the space at each end of your seesaw with which your dog must make contact to consider the obstacle completed. This ensures that your dog walks from one end of the seesaw to the other, rather than jumping on and off in the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint each contact area with an even coat of paint.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a latex or oil-based paint that is designed for outdoor use. Use a paintbrush or paint roller, cover the contact area on both ends of the board with a thin coat of paint.\\nUse a few bricks or a cinderblock to keep the ends of the seesaw from touching the ground while you paint it.\\nMost standard dog agility seesaws make the contact area bright yellow so that dogs can see it more easily.\\nTo keep the lines between the contact area and the rest of the seesaw straight, wrap the edge of your contact area with masking or painter's tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the unpainted area with a coat of paint in a contrasting color.\", \"描述\": \"To keep your seesaw visually interesting for yourself and your dog, choose a color that contrasts with the paint for your contact areas to cover the rest of the board. Use latex or oil-based paint that is waterproof, applying a thin coat to the plank with a paintbrush or roller.\\nStandard dog agility seesaws will usually be yellow on each end and blue in the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Leave the paint to dry for 3 to 4 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've painted your seesaw, leave it to sit in the sun for around 3 hours to allow the paint to dry. Keep the seesaw from moving as it dries, as anything that touches it might ruin your coat of paint.\\nCheck the manufacturer's instructions on your specific brand of paint for more information on the expected drying times.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add another coat of paint to both sections of the plank.\", \"描述\": \"Use a clean paintbrush or roller to apply another coat of your chosen paint colors to each section of the seesaw plank. Work quickly to stop the paint from drying as you shift between each color.\\nMake sure the first coat of paint is dry before adding a second coat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle the plank evenly with play sand.\", \"描述\": \"Adding a layer of sand to the wet paint will stop the plank from being slippery. While the paint is still wet, use your hands to begin sprinkling a thin layer play sand over the board. Continue adding sand until the board is evenly coated in a fine layer.\\nA 10 lb (4.5 kg) bag of play sand should be plenty to cover your seesaw. The exact amount needed will vary based on how liberally you apply it.\\nPlay sand is fine and sterile sand usually used for sandpits or something similar would also work. Large bags of play sand should be available from your local hardware store.\\nStart adding sand to the board from the lower end of the seesaw. Otherwise, the weight of the sand might cause the board to move and damage your paint job.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Brush away excess sand once the paint has dried.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the sanded paint to sit in the sun to dry for another 3 to 4 hours. When the paint is dry to the touch, use your hands to begin gently brushing away any sand that hasn't adhered to the coat of paint beneath it.\\nMake sure that the sand you brush away is taken off of the seesaw, rather than just pushed to a different section of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add a third coat of paint and leave it to dry fully.\", \"描述\": \"A third and final coat of paint will cover up some of the color of the sand, without taking away the extra grip that it adds to the seesaw. Use a paintbrush or roller to add another coat of paint to each of the areas of your seesaw. Leave it to dry for 3 to 4 hours before touching it again.\\nMake sure you give the final coat of paint plenty of time to dry before using the seesaw.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Remove the seesaw plank if you want to paint the base.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to improve the look of the base of your seesaw, you can paint it with the same type of paint used for the middle of the board. Take out the pipe and remove the plank from the base. Paint the base with a paintbrush, making sure to get into every area to coat it evenly. Leave the paint to dry fully before reattaching the plank and pipe.\\nIf you want to do more than 1 coat, make sure the paint is dry before applying another layer.\\nMake sure the paint is given plenty of time to dry. Even slightly wet paint may be easily damaged as you try to put the plank back in place.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Training your dog to use the seesaw may take a while. Have plenty of treats on hand to lure it onto the seesaw and to reward good behavior.\\n\", \"Any reliable and good-quality lumber will work excellently for this project. Avoid using pressure-treated wood for the plank, as this will be too heavy.\\n\", \"This project uses the specifications for a standard dog agility seesaw, according to the USDAA and the AKC. As such, it should be suitable for any dog that needs to be trained with an agility seesaw.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear protective eyewear when cutting or sawing wood.\\n\", \"Be careful when working with power tools. Avoid touching moving parts at all times to stay safe.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,638 |
How to Build an Adobe Wall
|
1. Preparation
1-1. Set aside some space in which to work and an area in which the bricks can dry for a time - up to two weeks, possibly.
1-2. Prepare a pit that will be used to mix your sand, clay, and water.
One way to do this is to get about 20 cinder blocks and arrange them in a square, two layers deep. Then line the inside of the pit with a heavy duty tarp.
1-3. Perform a "jar test" to determine your soil suitability.
Fill a jar (or plastic bottle - make sure it's see-through) halfway with the soil sample. Fill it the rest of the way with water. Shake vigorously for about a minute, then let it sit overnight. The next day, the soil will have settled into distinct bands. The bottom of the jar will have the larger-sized materials - sand and small pebbles - with smaller and smaller sized particles banding towards the top. The top band will be the clay or different silt. Ideally, the three bands will be about the same size. If your sample has more than a third sand (the bottom layer), you may not need to add any sand to your adobe.
1-4. Calculate the volume of your wall:
Measure the length of the wall in feet.
Determine the height of the wall in feet.
Since bricks (and thus the wall) are made 10" (25.5 cm) thick, multiply the length by height by 0.83 (10 in = .83 ft).
Divide that by 27. This is the total volume in cubic yards of the wall.
1-5. Obtain materials:
Sand (about half - 50% of your total volume). Sand is usually sold by the ton - you can calculate tonnage by multiplying your volume by .83. The sand should be relatively fine sand - beach sand or slightly larger works fine. NOTE: The amount of sand you mix in is very dependent upon the clay you have available, your climate, and how strong you want the wall. It's entirely relative - and there's really no way to do this.
Clay (about a third of your total volume). Again, clay or fill dirt is usually sold by the ton. Multiply your volume by .9 if it is dry, .7 if it is wet.
Straw (about 10 - 20% of your total volume). Straw is sold in bales of various sizes. The most common "big" bales are 14"x18"x36" (35.5 centimeter (14.0 in) x 45.7 centimeter (18.0 in) x 91.4 centimeter (36.0 in), which is .15 cubic yards. So multiply your total volume by .015 to get the number of "big" bales you'll need.
1-6. Create a form for making the bricks.
A typical form is made using two 2x4 studs, which are 96" long. Note that a typical stud is actually 1.5" (3.8 cm) by 3.5" (8.8 cm), which is why the lengths are odd (25.5", for example).
2. Making the Bricks
2-1. Shovel together sand and clay in the pit.
These should be mixed according to the amounts you have and your own desires - again, there's really no way.
2-2. Add water - enough to make the mixture "soupy."
2-3. Mix together - the easiest way to do this is to take off your socks and shoes, roll up your pant legs, and jump in with both feet.
Mix around until you don't find any dry patches.
2-4. Lay out a tarp and shovel on several shovel loads of the mud.
As you scoop out the mud, try to let excess water drain back into the pit. You can also use a 5 gallon (18.9 L) bucket to scoop out mud onto the tarp. Cover about a third of the center of the tarp.
2-5. Sprinkle a couple of large handfuls of straw onto the mud.
You want to break it up so it's not clumpy - and take out any "sticks" of straw that might hurt when you step on them.
2-6. Stomp on the mixture.
The goal is to thoroughly mix the straw and the mud, so stomp around a lot.
2-7. Pick up one side of the tarp so that the mixture falls back onto itself - sort of like kneading dough.
2-8. Keep mixing together in this way, adding straw as needed, until the mixture is fairly solid and hard to knead.
2-9. Grab large handfuls of the mixture and put them into the brick form.
Make sure to push the mixture into the corners well, and punch it into the form so it is filled and solid.
2-10. Let the bricks dry in the form for a short while - 15 minutes at least.
You can then remove the form and start filling it again.
2-11. Let the bricks sit where they are and dry a while - an hour or so.
When they're solid and dry enough to move, stand them up on their sides to dry some more. It may take a week until they're dry enough to build the wall with.
3. Building the Wall
3-1. Lay a foundation of gravel or stone.
3-2. Lay bricks flat on your foundation.
3-3. Use the mud mixture - or mud and straw mixture - as mortar between bricks.
You can layer the mortar up to 4" ( 10 cm) thick, though 1" or 2" (2.5 cm - 5 cm) is probably enough.
3-4. Use the mud mixture (it should be drier than the mixture you made for the bricks) as a plaster once the wall is built and dry.
This adds a stucco look to the wall, which can look very pleasing to the eye.
Tips
Clay is a distinct soil with minimal organic material and it is very cohesive. It should be free of "foreign" materials (sticks, twigs, rocks, etc.).
Cover the top of the wall with slate or other stone slabs with an overhang to prevent water seeping into the finished wall. This will extend the life of the wall.
Since the bricks are only 4" tall, you're going to need 15 or more layers to make a 6 foot (1.8 m) tall wall.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparation\\n1-1. Set aside some space in which to work and an area in which the bricks can dry for a time - up to two weeks, possibly.\\n\\n1-2. Prepare a pit that will be used to mix your sand, clay, and water.\\nOne way to do this is to get about 20 cinder blocks and arrange them in a square, two layers deep. Then line the inside of the pit with a heavy duty tarp.\\n1-3. Perform a \\\"jar test\\\" to determine your soil suitability.\\nFill a jar (or plastic bottle - make sure it's see-through) halfway with the soil sample. Fill it the rest of the way with water. Shake vigorously for about a minute, then let it sit overnight. The next day, the soil will have settled into distinct bands. The bottom of the jar will have the larger-sized materials - sand and small pebbles - with smaller and smaller sized particles banding towards the top. The top band will be the clay or different silt. Ideally, the three bands will be about the same size. If your sample has more than a third sand (the bottom layer), you may not need to add any sand to your adobe.\\n1-4. Calculate the volume of your wall:\\nMeasure the length of the wall in feet.\\nDetermine the height of the wall in feet.\\nSince bricks (and thus the wall) are made 10\\\" (25.5 cm) thick, multiply the length by height by 0.83 (10 in = .83 ft).\\nDivide that by 27. This is the total volume in cubic yards of the wall.\\n1-5. Obtain materials:\\nSand (about half - 50% of your total volume). Sand is usually sold by the ton - you can calculate tonnage by multiplying your volume by .83. The sand should be relatively fine sand - beach sand or slightly larger works fine. NOTE: The amount of sand you mix in is very dependent upon the clay you have available, your climate, and how strong you want the wall. It's entirely relative - and there's really no way to do this.\\nClay (about a third of your total volume). Again, clay or fill dirt is usually sold by the ton. Multiply your volume by .9 if it is dry, .7 if it is wet.\\nStraw (about 10 - 20% of your total volume). Straw is sold in bales of various sizes. The most common \\\"big\\\" bales are 14\\\"x18\\\"x36\\\" (35.5 centimeter (14.0 in) x 45.7 centimeter (18.0 in) x 91.4 centimeter (36.0 in), which is .15 cubic yards. So multiply your total volume by .015 to get the number of \\\"big\\\" bales you'll need.\\n1-6. Create a form for making the bricks.\\nA typical form is made using two 2x4 studs, which are 96\\\" long. Note that a typical stud is actually 1.5\\\" (3.8 cm) by 3.5\\\" (8.8 cm), which is why the lengths are odd (25.5\\\", for example).\\n2. Making the Bricks\\n2-1. Shovel together sand and clay in the pit.\\nThese should be mixed according to the amounts you have and your own desires - again, there's really no way.\\n2-2. Add water - enough to make the mixture \\\"soupy.\\\"\\n\\n2-3. Mix together - the easiest way to do this is to take off your socks and shoes, roll up your pant legs, and jump in with both feet.\\nMix around until you don't find any dry patches.\\n2-4. Lay out a tarp and shovel on several shovel loads of the mud.\\nAs you scoop out the mud, try to let excess water drain back into the pit. You can also use a 5 gallon (18.9 L) bucket to scoop out mud onto the tarp. Cover about a third of the center of the tarp.\\n2-5. Sprinkle a couple of large handfuls of straw onto the mud.\\nYou want to break it up so it's not clumpy - and take out any \\\"sticks\\\" of straw that might hurt when you step on them.\\n2-6. Stomp on the mixture.\\nThe goal is to thoroughly mix the straw and the mud, so stomp around a lot.\\n2-7. Pick up one side of the tarp so that the mixture falls back onto itself - sort of like kneading dough.\\n\\n2-8. Keep mixing together in this way, adding straw as needed, until the mixture is fairly solid and hard to knead.\\n\\n2-9. Grab large handfuls of the mixture and put them into the brick form.\\nMake sure to push the mixture into the corners well, and punch it into the form so it is filled and solid.\\n2-10. Let the bricks dry in the form for a short while - 15 minutes at least.\\nYou can then remove the form and start filling it again.\\n2-11. Let the bricks sit where they are and dry a while - an hour or so.\\nWhen they're solid and dry enough to move, stand them up on their sides to dry some more. It may take a week until they're dry enough to build the wall with.\\n3. Building the Wall\\n3-1. Lay a foundation of gravel or stone.\\n\\n3-2. Lay bricks flat on your foundation.\\n\\n3-3. Use the mud mixture - or mud and straw mixture - as mortar between bricks.\\nYou can layer the mortar up to 4\\\" ( 10 cm) thick, though 1\\\" or 2\\\" (2.5 cm - 5 cm) is probably enough.\\n3-4. Use the mud mixture (it should be drier than the mixture you made for the bricks) as a plaster once the wall is built and dry.\\nThis adds a stucco look to the wall, which can look very pleasing to the eye.\\nTips\\nClay is a distinct soil with minimal organic material and it is very cohesive. It should be free of \\\"foreign\\\" materials (sticks, twigs, rocks, etc.).\\nCover the top of the wall with slate or other stone slabs with an overhang to prevent water seeping into the finished wall. This will extend the life of the wall.\\nSince the bricks are only 4\\\" tall, you're going to need 15 or more layers to make a 6 foot (1.8 m) tall wall.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Adobe is an age-old building material that is easy to make and extremely durable. Adobe structures account for some of the oldest extant buildings on the planet. Adobe buildings also offer significant advantages in hot, dry climates; they remain cooler during the day and warmer during the night, as adobe stores and releases heat very slowly.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set aside some space in which to work and an area in which the bricks can dry for a time - up to two weeks, possibly.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare a pit that will be used to mix your sand, clay, and water.\", \"描述\": \"One way to do this is to get about 20 cinder blocks and arrange them in a square, two layers deep. Then line the inside of the pit with a heavy duty tarp.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Perform a \\\"jar test\\\" to determine your soil suitability.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a jar (or plastic bottle - make sure it's see-through) halfway with the soil sample. Fill it the rest of the way with water. Shake vigorously for about a minute, then let it sit overnight. The next day, the soil will have settled into distinct bands. The bottom of the jar will have the larger-sized materials - sand and small pebbles - with smaller and smaller sized particles banding towards the top. The top band will be the clay or different silt. Ideally, the three bands will be about the same size. If your sample has more than a third sand (the bottom layer), you may not need to add any sand to your adobe.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Calculate the volume of your wall:\", \"描述\": \"Measure the length of the wall in feet.\\nDetermine the height of the wall in feet.\\nSince bricks (and thus the wall) are made 10\\\" (25.5 cm) thick, multiply the length by height by 0.83 (10 in = .83 ft).\\nDivide that by 27. This is the total volume in cubic yards of the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Obtain materials:\", \"描述\": \"Sand (about half - 50% of your total volume). Sand is usually sold by the ton - you can calculate tonnage by multiplying your volume by .83. The sand should be relatively fine sand - beach sand or slightly larger works fine. NOTE: The amount of sand you mix in is very dependent upon the clay you have available, your climate, and how strong you want the wall. It's entirely relative - and there's really no way to do this.\\nClay (about a third of your total volume). Again, clay or fill dirt is usually sold by the ton. Multiply your volume by .9 if it is dry, .7 if it is wet.\\nStraw (about 10 - 20% of your total volume). Straw is sold in bales of various sizes. The most common \\\"big\\\" bales are 14\\\"x18\\\"x36\\\" (35.5 centimeter (14.0 in) x 45.7 centimeter (18.0 in) x 91.4 centimeter (36.0 in), which is .15 cubic yards. So multiply your total volume by .015 to get the number of \\\"big\\\" bales you'll need.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a form for making the bricks.\", \"描述\": \"A typical form is made using two 2x4 studs, which are 96\\\" long. Note that a typical stud is actually 1.5\\\" (3.8 cm) by 3.5\\\" (8.8 cm), which is why the lengths are odd (25.5\\\", for example).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Bricks\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shovel together sand and clay in the pit.\", \"描述\": \"These should be mixed according to the amounts you have and your own desires - again, there's really no way.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add water - enough to make the mixture \\\"soupy.\\\"\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mix together - the easiest way to do this is to take off your socks and shoes, roll up your pant legs, and jump in with both feet.\", \"描述\": \"Mix around until you don't find any dry patches.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay out a tarp and shovel on several shovel loads of the mud.\", \"描述\": \"As you scoop out the mud, try to let excess water drain back into the pit. You can also use a 5 gallon (18.9 L) bucket to scoop out mud onto the tarp. Cover about a third of the center of the tarp.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle a couple of large handfuls of straw onto the mud.\", \"描述\": \"You want to break it up so it's not clumpy - and take out any \\\"sticks\\\" of straw that might hurt when you step on them.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stomp on the mixture.\", \"描述\": \"The goal is to thoroughly mix the straw and the mud, so stomp around a lot.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Pick up one side of the tarp so that the mixture falls back onto itself - sort of like kneading dough.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Keep mixing together in this way, adding straw as needed, until the mixture is fairly solid and hard to knead.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Grab large handfuls of the mixture and put them into the brick form.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to push the mixture into the corners well, and punch it into the form so it is filled and solid.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Let the bricks dry in the form for a short while - 15 minutes at least.\", \"描述\": \"You can then remove the form and start filling it again.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Let the bricks sit where they are and dry a while - an hour or so.\", \"描述\": \"When they're solid and dry enough to move, stand them up on their sides to dry some more. It may take a week until they're dry enough to build the wall with.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay a foundation of gravel or stone.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay bricks flat on your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use the mud mixture - or mud and straw mixture - as mortar between bricks.\", \"描述\": \"You can layer the mortar up to 4\\\" ( 10 cm) thick, though 1\\\" or 2\\\" (2.5 cm - 5 cm) is probably enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the mud mixture (it should be drier than the mixture you made for the bricks) as a plaster once the wall is built and dry.\", \"描述\": \"This adds a stucco look to the wall, which can look very pleasing to the eye.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Clay is a distinct soil with minimal organic material and it is very cohesive. It should be free of \\\"foreign\\\" materials (sticks, twigs, rocks, etc.).\\n\", \"Cover the top of the wall with slate or other stone slabs with an overhang to prevent water seeping into the finished wall. This will extend the life of the wall.\\n\", \"Since the bricks are only 4\\\" tall, you're going to need 15 or more layers to make a 6 foot (1.8 m) tall wall.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,639 |
How to Build an Airplane
|
1. Constructing the Plane
1-1. Check your area regulations on building your own airplane.
In many countries, building your own aircraft is legal. You typically do not need to have a pilot’s license until you are ready to fly the plane. All you have to do is buy supplies and get to work!
In the U.S., for example, the Federal Aviation Administration regulates aircraft.
Be aware of any building rules. For instance, the FAA requires you to construct 51% of your plane yourself. Prove this by making a logbook containing photos and videos of your work.
1-2. Find a place to build your plane.
Many builders choose their garage, basement, or another home workspace. Keep in mind that you will need a lot of space to store an airplane and its parts. It also helps to stay indoors where the temperature can be kept above 50 °F (10 °C), since bad weather makes working tough.
When choosing a workspace, consider how long the build will take you. With consistent work, the process can be as short as a few months, but it takes most builders years.
Some kit companies allow you to build inside their facility. This can be a good option if you live nearby.
1-3. Choose what you want your plane to be made from.
Your plane can be made from wood and fabric, aluminum, or composite materials. Each material has different price points and advantages, so research these before settling on a plane kit or design. Also consider your skills, such as metalworking, woodworking, and sewing, since this can make some material easier to use than others.
Wood and fabric combination frames are light but weak. Early planes used wood, and it is still a user-friendly option for custom planes.
Most planes today are made out of aluminum, an inexpensive material that is more aerodynamic than wood..
Composite materials are stronger and more aerodynamic than aluminum but also more expensive.
1-4. Purchase a building kit online.
A basic building kit can cost you between $6,500 and $15,000 USD. These kits provide all the plans and materials you need to build the external structure of your plane, so they save you time. You can find all sorts of different plane models by shopping with different kit manufacturers.
Kits typically do not come with an engine, propeller, and flight control panel, so you will have to buy these separately.
If you want to save money, you can search online for airplane plans. You can download available plans, buy plans from kit companies, or design your own.
To design your own plans, use a program like Airplane PDQ to create the design, then a flight simulator like X-Plane to test it.
1-5. Assemble your plane’s frame.
Use the instructions in your kit or your plans to construct the plane. Concentrate on constructing 1 piece at a time. Usually you will start with the tail, build towards the nose, and attach the wings last. Work piece by piece until the frame is complete.
The skills and tools you need for this depend on your kit and the material you are working with.
You do not need to have technical expertise to begin. You can learn or refine skills as you go through the building process.
A few skills that may come in handy are riveting and welding.
1-6. Install the engine in the nose of the plane.
Position the engine at the front of the plane, behind where the flight control panel will be installed later. The engine can be heavy, so you may need some help lifting it. Mount it in place using a wrench and sockets.
You can order an engine from kit manufacturers and online auction sites. You may also be able to repurpose engines from old cars and junkyards.
The engine can cost as much as your kit. Expect it to be ⅓ of your total costs, at least $2,000 USD.
Installing the engine can be tricky. If you get stuck, look for online guides and videos.
1-7. Connect the propeller to the front of the engine.
Push the propeller’s shaft through the plane’s nose, connecting it with the engine. Keep the blades on the outside of the plane. Secure the propeller to the engine and plane by using a socket wrench to tighten bolts holding it in place.
If your kit does not come with a propeller, you can purchase 1 online from kit pr aviation manufacturers.
If you are using a car engine, get a propeller speed reduction unit and attach it to the engine first. Otherwise, the propeller will spin too quickly for the plane to fly properly.
1-8. Place the flight panel inside the plane.
The aviation panel should fit in front of the plane’s nose. You may need to do some electrical wiring to connect the panel to the engine. The panel itself can be set in place with rivets. The panel has instruments such as temperature gauges and a radio, so make sure they work before you move on.
Order a flight panel online from an aviation company or an auction site. Expect to pay about $1,000 USD.
Some modern avionics panels come with a control module. You plug the panel components into the module for easier installation.
1-9. Furnish the interior of your plane.
Your interior design depends on your plane. A lot of planes don’t have much space in the interior, but you will at least need a comfortable seat. If it wasn’t included in your kit, you can order 1 online or make your own.
Most home-built planes are designed for 1 or 2 people. You may not be allowed to carry more than 4 people at a time.
Some helpful skills for this can include riveting and sewing.
1-10. Paint
Search online to order specially-designed aircraft paints in the color you want. Planning out a color scheme can help. Lay down a drop cloth and use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to color. Apply the paint using a spray gun and use a brush to reach smaller areas.
Apply a primer first so the paint sticks to the aircraft better.
After the paint dries, spray on a finishing material such as acetone to protect your craft.
Be sure to work in a ventilated area. Wear a respirator and eye goggles.
2. Flying Your Plane
2-1. Get a pilot’s license in your free time.
A pilot’s license is necessary before you can take flight. While you can wait until you finish your build to do this, you can begin the process before you even start on your plane. Take a flight class from a certified school in your area, then apply with the FAA or your government’s aerial authority.
You won’t be able to use your plane for this, since it has to pass inspections first. You will use an instructional plane at the school.
The certification board gives you a medical exam, similar to going to a doctor for a check-up. They may also have you take a written test on flight rules.
Use your pilot’s license to test out many different types of aircraft. This can help you figure out what kind of plane you want to build.
2-2. Bring your plane to an airport.
You will need to transport your plane to an airport before you can fly it. If you can, detach parts like the wings and reassemble the plane in an airport hangar. Transport the plane by renting a truck or flatbed. Make sure all the parts are strapped down securely.
Contact airports in your region. The employees can direct you on where to bring your plane for registration.
2-3. Find a place to store your plane.
Many planes are stored at hangars near the airport. You will have to pay a fee, which may be around $700 to $800 annually for a small plane. However, your plane will be safe in the hangar and always accessible.
Contact your local airport for information on renting hangar space.
If you have a lot of property space or storage space like a large barn, you may keep the plane there.
2-4. Complete your aircraft registration paperwork.
Your government’s transportation safety board, such as the Federal Aviation Administration in the U.S., handles aircraft registration. Complete the paperwork to register your aircraft as amateur-built. They will likely give you an identification number for your plane.
Registration can take 1 to 2 months to complete, so be prepared for this. While you wait, consider practicing by flying other airplanes.
Contact the EAA or other flying organizations for help with the paperwork.
2-5. Complete the final plane inspection at the airport.
A government agent at the airport will give your plane a thorough inspection to make sure it is safe. They check that your plane is built properly with quality materials. If your plane passes, you receive a document of official certification in 1 to 2 months.
If your government requires you to keep a logbook detailing the building process, bring it in during the inspection.
2-6. Have your first test flight.
Schedule the test with the government agency that certified your plane. The EAA and other flight organizations can help you with this. To pass the test, you have to fly your plane for up to 40 hours total. You can do this within a couple of sessions.
Once you pass the test, you can fly your plane according to the rules of the sky. You can fly cross-country and invite other people aboard.
3. Getting Involved
3-1. Have an inspector verify your work.
The EAA, for example, provides free inspections while you build your plane. It’s a good idea to have them come out several times during the building process. These inspections are meant to identify any issues with your work and building material that can prevent your plane from passing an official inspection.
EAA inspectors are fellow builders volunteering their time. The inspections are free.
Find inspectors in your area at https://www.EAA.org/TechCounselors.
3-2. Attend amateur aircraft groups and events.
Visit events hosted by groups such as the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA). The EAA hosts events such as the Air Venture in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. These are places to network with kit manufacturers and fellow builders. Learn valuable craft skills while you’re there.
Organizations often hold workshops on building techniques, giving you a chance to experiment with wood and metal you might use on your plane.
Visit these events and view organization websites online to gather more information. For example, go to https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa.
3-3. Take a ride in plane types you are interested in building.
Joining a local chapter of an aviation organization and going to events can get you in touch with other flyers. You may be able to take to the skies as a passenger in a variety of plane types. Experimenting this way can help you learn more about building planes and how you want yours to be built.
Try to ride in various plane types, such as wood, aluminum, and composite frames.
Only licensed pilots with registered aircraft can take you on a flight.
3-4. Connect with other builders to get more help.
Many aircraft owners enjoy the building process as much as they do flying. Network with them when you attend events. Also search for building forums online. You can learn a lot about building and even find people willing to help you construct your plane.
For example, try Wings Forum or the EAA forums.
Tips
Your aircraft cannot be used for commercial purposes, such as rentals or paid transportation.
Purchasing an aircraft insurance policy can save you money in case of an accident or a damaged plane.
Creating your own plane can be a challenge. The costs can seem pretty steep and building can take years if you don’t have a lot of spare time.
Warnings
Flight laws differ from area to area. Make sure you understand the rules before you fly.
Flying an airplane can be dangerous. You have to be properly trained and certified before operating a plane.
Always double check if you are building a part right. Defective parts can lead to problems later on.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Plane\\n1-1. Check your area regulations on building your own airplane.\\nIn many countries, building your own aircraft is legal. You typically do not need to have a pilot’s license until you are ready to fly the plane. All you have to do is buy supplies and get to work!\\nIn the U.S., for example, the Federal Aviation Administration regulates aircraft.\\nBe aware of any building rules. For instance, the FAA requires you to construct 51% of your plane yourself. Prove this by making a logbook containing photos and videos of your work.\\n1-2. Find a place to build your plane.\\nMany builders choose their garage, basement, or another home workspace. Keep in mind that you will need a lot of space to store an airplane and its parts. It also helps to stay indoors where the temperature can be kept above 50 °F (10 °C), since bad weather makes working tough.\\nWhen choosing a workspace, consider how long the build will take you. With consistent work, the process can be as short as a few months, but it takes most builders years.\\nSome kit companies allow you to build inside their facility. This can be a good option if you live nearby.\\n1-3. Choose what you want your plane to be made from.\\nYour plane can be made from wood and fabric, aluminum, or composite materials. Each material has different price points and advantages, so research these before settling on a plane kit or design. Also consider your skills, such as metalworking, woodworking, and sewing, since this can make some material easier to use than others.\\nWood and fabric combination frames are light but weak. Early planes used wood, and it is still a user-friendly option for custom planes.\\nMost planes today are made out of aluminum, an inexpensive material that is more aerodynamic than wood..\\nComposite materials are stronger and more aerodynamic than aluminum but also more expensive.\\n1-4. Purchase a building kit online.\\nA basic building kit can cost you between $6,500 and $15,000 USD. These kits provide all the plans and materials you need to build the external structure of your plane, so they save you time. You can find all sorts of different plane models by shopping with different kit manufacturers. \\nKits typically do not come with an engine, propeller, and flight control panel, so you will have to buy these separately.\\nIf you want to save money, you can search online for airplane plans. You can download available plans, buy plans from kit companies, or design your own.\\nTo design your own plans, use a program like Airplane PDQ to create the design, then a flight simulator like X-Plane to test it.\\n1-5. Assemble your plane’s frame.\\nUse the instructions in your kit or your plans to construct the plane. Concentrate on constructing 1 piece at a time. Usually you will start with the tail, build towards the nose, and attach the wings last. Work piece by piece until the frame is complete.\\nThe skills and tools you need for this depend on your kit and the material you are working with.\\nYou do not need to have technical expertise to begin. You can learn or refine skills as you go through the building process.\\nA few skills that may come in handy are riveting and welding.\\n1-6. Install the engine in the nose of the plane.\\nPosition the engine at the front of the plane, behind where the flight control panel will be installed later. The engine can be heavy, so you may need some help lifting it. Mount it in place using a wrench and sockets.\\nYou can order an engine from kit manufacturers and online auction sites. You may also be able to repurpose engines from old cars and junkyards.\\nThe engine can cost as much as your kit. Expect it to be ⅓ of your total costs, at least $2,000 USD.\\nInstalling the engine can be tricky. If you get stuck, look for online guides and videos.\\n1-7. Connect the propeller to the front of the engine.\\nPush the propeller’s shaft through the plane’s nose, connecting it with the engine. Keep the blades on the outside of the plane. Secure the propeller to the engine and plane by using a socket wrench to tighten bolts holding it in place.\\nIf your kit does not come with a propeller, you can purchase 1 online from kit pr aviation manufacturers.\\nIf you are using a car engine, get a propeller speed reduction unit and attach it to the engine first. Otherwise, the propeller will spin too quickly for the plane to fly properly.\\n1-8. Place the flight panel inside the plane.\\nThe aviation panel should fit in front of the plane’s nose. You may need to do some electrical wiring to connect the panel to the engine. The panel itself can be set in place with rivets. The panel has instruments such as temperature gauges and a radio, so make sure they work before you move on.\\nOrder a flight panel online from an aviation company or an auction site. Expect to pay about $1,000 USD.\\nSome modern avionics panels come with a control module. You plug the panel components into the module for easier installation.\\n1-9. Furnish the interior of your plane.\\nYour interior design depends on your plane. A lot of planes don’t have much space in the interior, but you will at least need a comfortable seat. If it wasn’t included in your kit, you can order 1 online or make your own.\\nMost home-built planes are designed for 1 or 2 people. You may not be allowed to carry more than 4 people at a time.\\nSome helpful skills for this can include riveting and sewing.\\n1-10. Paint\\nSearch online to order specially-designed aircraft paints in the color you want. Planning out a color scheme can help. Lay down a drop cloth and use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to color. Apply the paint using a spray gun and use a brush to reach smaller areas.\\nApply a primer first so the paint sticks to the aircraft better.\\nAfter the paint dries, spray on a finishing material such as acetone to protect your craft.\\nBe sure to work in a ventilated area. Wear a respirator and eye goggles.\\n2. Flying Your Plane\\n2-1. Get a pilot’s license in your free time.\\nA pilot’s license is necessary before you can take flight. While you can wait until you finish your build to do this, you can begin the process before you even start on your plane. Take a flight class from a certified school in your area, then apply with the FAA or your government’s aerial authority.\\nYou won’t be able to use your plane for this, since it has to pass inspections first. You will use an instructional plane at the school.\\nThe certification board gives you a medical exam, similar to going to a doctor for a check-up. They may also have you take a written test on flight rules.\\nUse your pilot’s license to test out many different types of aircraft. This can help you figure out what kind of plane you want to build.\\n2-2. Bring your plane to an airport.\\nYou will need to transport your plane to an airport before you can fly it. If you can, detach parts like the wings and reassemble the plane in an airport hangar. Transport the plane by renting a truck or flatbed. Make sure all the parts are strapped down securely.\\nContact airports in your region. The employees can direct you on where to bring your plane for registration.\\n2-3. Find a place to store your plane.\\nMany planes are stored at hangars near the airport. You will have to pay a fee, which may be around $700 to $800 annually for a small plane. However, your plane will be safe in the hangar and always accessible.\\nContact your local airport for information on renting hangar space.\\nIf you have a lot of property space or storage space like a large barn, you may keep the plane there.\\n2-4. Complete your aircraft registration paperwork.\\nYour government’s transportation safety board, such as the Federal Aviation Administration in the U.S., handles aircraft registration. Complete the paperwork to register your aircraft as amateur-built. They will likely give you an identification number for your plane.\\nRegistration can take 1 to 2 months to complete, so be prepared for this. While you wait, consider practicing by flying other airplanes.\\nContact the EAA or other flying organizations for help with the paperwork.\\n2-5. Complete the final plane inspection at the airport.\\nA government agent at the airport will give your plane a thorough inspection to make sure it is safe. They check that your plane is built properly with quality materials. If your plane passes, you receive a document of official certification in 1 to 2 months.\\nIf your government requires you to keep a logbook detailing the building process, bring it in during the inspection.\\n2-6. Have your first test flight.\\nSchedule the test with the government agency that certified your plane. The EAA and other flight organizations can help you with this. To pass the test, you have to fly your plane for up to 40 hours total. You can do this within a couple of sessions.\\nOnce you pass the test, you can fly your plane according to the rules of the sky. You can fly cross-country and invite other people aboard.\\n3. Getting Involved\\n3-1. Have an inspector verify your work.\\nThe EAA, for example, provides free inspections while you build your plane. It’s a good idea to have them come out several times during the building process. These inspections are meant to identify any issues with your work and building material that can prevent your plane from passing an official inspection.\\nEAA inspectors are fellow builders volunteering their time. The inspections are free.\\nFind inspectors in your area at https://www.EAA.org/TechCounselors.\\n3-2. Attend amateur aircraft groups and events.\\nVisit events hosted by groups such as the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA). The EAA hosts events such as the Air Venture in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. These are places to network with kit manufacturers and fellow builders. Learn valuable craft skills while you’re there.\\nOrganizations often hold workshops on building techniques, giving you a chance to experiment with wood and metal you might use on your plane.\\nVisit these events and view organization websites online to gather more information. For example, go to https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa.\\n3-3. Take a ride in plane types you are interested in building.\\nJoining a local chapter of an aviation organization and going to events can get you in touch with other flyers. You may be able to take to the skies as a passenger in a variety of plane types. Experimenting this way can help you learn more about building planes and how you want yours to be built.\\nTry to ride in various plane types, such as wood, aluminum, and composite frames.\\nOnly licensed pilots with registered aircraft can take you on a flight.\\n3-4. Connect with other builders to get more help.\\nMany aircraft owners enjoy the building process as much as they do flying. Network with them when you attend events. Also search for building forums online. You can learn a lot about building and even find people willing to help you construct your plane.\\nFor example, try Wings Forum or the EAA forums.\\nTips\\nYour aircraft cannot be used for commercial purposes, such as rentals or paid transportation.\\nPurchasing an aircraft insurance policy can save you money in case of an accident or a damaged plane.\\nCreating your own plane can be a challenge. The costs can seem pretty steep and building can take years if you don’t have a lot of spare time.\\nWarnings\\nFlight laws differ from area to area. Make sure you understand the rules before you fly.\\nFlying an airplane can be dangerous. You have to be properly trained and certified before operating a plane.\\nAlways double check if you are building a part right. Defective parts can lead to problems later on.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For some people, building and flying your own plane is a satisfying personal experience. Constructing your own plane is legal in most countries and you don’t need to know any skills to begin. You can start by purchasing a kit online and getting involved with aviation organizations. Once you’re done building, register your plane with your government’s aviation board. Then, you can enjoy cruising the skies in a plane customized to your liking. This article is for building full scale aircraft. To build a model airplane, check out some different wikiHow articles.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Plane\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check your area regulations on building your own airplane.\", \"描述\": \"In many countries, building your own aircraft is legal. You typically do not need to have a pilot’s license until you are ready to fly the plane. All you have to do is buy supplies and get to work!\\nIn the U.S., for example, the Federal Aviation Administration regulates aircraft.\\nBe aware of any building rules. For instance, the FAA requires you to construct 51% of your plane yourself. Prove this by making a logbook containing photos and videos of your work.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a place to build your plane.\", \"描述\": \"Many builders choose their garage, basement, or another home workspace. Keep in mind that you will need a lot of space to store an airplane and its parts. It also helps to stay indoors where the temperature can be kept above 50 °F (10 °C), since bad weather makes working tough.\\nWhen choosing a workspace, consider how long the build will take you. With consistent work, the process can be as short as a few months, but it takes most builders years.\\nSome kit companies allow you to build inside their facility. This can be a good option if you live nearby.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose what you want your plane to be made from.\", \"描述\": \"Your plane can be made from wood and fabric, aluminum, or composite materials. Each material has different price points and advantages, so research these before settling on a plane kit or design. Also consider your skills, such as metalworking, woodworking, and sewing, since this can make some material easier to use than others.\\nWood and fabric combination frames are light but weak. Early planes used wood, and it is still a user-friendly option for custom planes.\\nMost planes today are made out of aluminum, an inexpensive material that is more aerodynamic than wood..\\nComposite materials are stronger and more aerodynamic than aluminum but also more expensive.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase a building kit online.\", \"描述\": \"A basic building kit can cost you between $6,500 and $15,000 USD. These kits provide all the plans and materials you need to build the external structure of your plane, so they save you time. You can find all sorts of different plane models by shopping with different kit manufacturers. \\nKits typically do not come with an engine, propeller, and flight control panel, so you will have to buy these separately.\\nIf you want to save money, you can search online for airplane plans. You can download available plans, buy plans from kit companies, or design your own.\\nTo design your own plans, use a program like Airplane PDQ to create the design, then a flight simulator like X-Plane to test it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Assemble your plane’s frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use the instructions in your kit or your plans to construct the plane. Concentrate on constructing 1 piece at a time. Usually you will start with the tail, build towards the nose, and attach the wings last. Work piece by piece until the frame is complete.\\nThe skills and tools you need for this depend on your kit and the material you are working with.\\nYou do not need to have technical expertise to begin. You can learn or refine skills as you go through the building process.\\nA few skills that may come in handy are riveting and welding.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install the engine in the nose of the plane.\", \"描述\": \"Position the engine at the front of the plane, behind where the flight control panel will be installed later. The engine can be heavy, so you may need some help lifting it. Mount it in place using a wrench and sockets.\\nYou can order an engine from kit manufacturers and online auction sites. You may also be able to repurpose engines from old cars and junkyards.\\nThe engine can cost as much as your kit. Expect it to be ⅓ of your total costs, at least $2,000 USD.\\nInstalling the engine can be tricky. If you get stuck, look for online guides and videos.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Connect the propeller to the front of the engine.\", \"描述\": \"Push the propeller’s shaft through the plane’s nose, connecting it with the engine. Keep the blades on the outside of the plane. Secure the propeller to the engine and plane by using a socket wrench to tighten bolts holding it in place.\\nIf your kit does not come with a propeller, you can purchase 1 online from kit pr aviation manufacturers.\\nIf you are using a car engine, get a propeller speed reduction unit and attach it to the engine first. Otherwise, the propeller will spin too quickly for the plane to fly properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place the flight panel inside the plane.\", \"描述\": \"The aviation panel should fit in front of the plane’s nose. You may need to do some electrical wiring to connect the panel to the engine. The panel itself can be set in place with rivets. The panel has instruments such as temperature gauges and a radio, so make sure they work before you move on.\\nOrder a flight panel online from an aviation company or an auction site. Expect to pay about $1,000 USD.\\nSome modern avionics panels come with a control module. You plug the panel components into the module for easier installation.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Furnish the interior of your plane.\", \"描述\": \"Your interior design depends on your plane. A lot of planes don’t have much space in the interior, but you will at least need a comfortable seat. If it wasn’t included in your kit, you can order 1 online or make your own.\\nMost home-built planes are designed for 1 or 2 people. You may not be allowed to carry more than 4 people at a time.\\nSome helpful skills for this can include riveting and sewing.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"Search online to order specially-designed aircraft paints in the color you want. Planning out a color scheme can help. Lay down a drop cloth and use painter’s tape to protect areas you don’t want to color. Apply the paint using a spray gun and use a brush to reach smaller areas.\\nApply a primer first so the paint sticks to the aircraft better.\\nAfter the paint dries, spray on a finishing material such as acetone to protect your craft.\\nBe sure to work in a ventilated area. Wear a respirator and eye goggles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Flying Your Plane\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a pilot’s license in your free time.\", \"描述\": \"A pilot’s license is necessary before you can take flight. While you can wait until you finish your build to do this, you can begin the process before you even start on your plane. Take a flight class from a certified school in your area, then apply with the FAA or your government’s aerial authority.\\nYou won’t be able to use your plane for this, since it has to pass inspections first. You will use an instructional plane at the school.\\nThe certification board gives you a medical exam, similar to going to a doctor for a check-up. They may also have you take a written test on flight rules.\\nUse your pilot’s license to test out many different types of aircraft. This can help you figure out what kind of plane you want to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bring your plane to an airport.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to transport your plane to an airport before you can fly it. If you can, detach parts like the wings and reassemble the plane in an airport hangar. Transport the plane by renting a truck or flatbed. Make sure all the parts are strapped down securely.\\nContact airports in your region. The employees can direct you on where to bring your plane for registration.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a place to store your plane.\", \"描述\": \"Many planes are stored at hangars near the airport. You will have to pay a fee, which may be around $700 to $800 annually for a small plane. However, your plane will be safe in the hangar and always accessible.\\nContact your local airport for information on renting hangar space.\\nIf you have a lot of property space or storage space like a large barn, you may keep the plane there.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Complete your aircraft registration paperwork.\", \"描述\": \"Your government’s transportation safety board, such as the Federal Aviation Administration in the U.S., handles aircraft registration. Complete the paperwork to register your aircraft as amateur-built. They will likely give you an identification number for your plane.\\nRegistration can take 1 to 2 months to complete, so be prepared for this. While you wait, consider practicing by flying other airplanes.\\nContact the EAA or other flying organizations for help with the paperwork.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Complete the final plane inspection at the airport.\", \"描述\": \"A government agent at the airport will give your plane a thorough inspection to make sure it is safe. They check that your plane is built properly with quality materials. If your plane passes, you receive a document of official certification in 1 to 2 months.\\nIf your government requires you to keep a logbook detailing the building process, bring it in during the inspection.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Have your first test flight.\", \"描述\": \"Schedule the test with the government agency that certified your plane. The EAA and other flight organizations can help you with this. To pass the test, you have to fly your plane for up to 40 hours total. You can do this within a couple of sessions.\\nOnce you pass the test, you can fly your plane according to the rules of the sky. You can fly cross-country and invite other people aboard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Getting Involved\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have an inspector verify your work.\", \"描述\": \"The EAA, for example, provides free inspections while you build your plane. It’s a good idea to have them come out several times during the building process. These inspections are meant to identify any issues with your work and building material that can prevent your plane from passing an official inspection.\\nEAA inspectors are fellow builders volunteering their time. The inspections are free.\\nFind inspectors in your area at https://www.EAA.org/TechCounselors.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attend amateur aircraft groups and events.\", \"描述\": \"Visit events hosted by groups such as the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA). The EAA hosts events such as the Air Venture in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. These are places to network with kit manufacturers and fellow builders. Learn valuable craft skills while you’re there.\\nOrganizations often hold workshops on building techniques, giving you a chance to experiment with wood and metal you might use on your plane.\\nVisit these events and view organization websites online to gather more information. For example, go to https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take a ride in plane types you are interested in building.\", \"描述\": \"Joining a local chapter of an aviation organization and going to events can get you in touch with other flyers. You may be able to take to the skies as a passenger in a variety of plane types. Experimenting this way can help you learn more about building planes and how you want yours to be built.\\nTry to ride in various plane types, such as wood, aluminum, and composite frames.\\nOnly licensed pilots with registered aircraft can take you on a flight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect with other builders to get more help.\", \"描述\": \"Many aircraft owners enjoy the building process as much as they do flying. Network with them when you attend events. Also search for building forums online. You can learn a lot about building and even find people willing to help you construct your plane.\\nFor example, try Wings Forum or the EAA forums.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Your aircraft cannot be used for commercial purposes, such as rentals or paid transportation.\\n\", \"Purchasing an aircraft insurance policy can save you money in case of an accident or a damaged plane.\\n\", \"Creating your own plane can be a challenge. The costs can seem pretty steep and building can take years if you don’t have a lot of spare time.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Flight laws differ from area to area. Make sure you understand the rules before you fly.\\n\", \"Flying an airplane can be dangerous. You have to be properly trained and certified before operating a plane.\\n\", \"Always double check if you are building a part right. Defective parts can lead to problems later on.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,640 |
How to Build an Airsoft Gun out of Household Objects
|
1. Quick and Easy
1-1. Drill 2 holes in a small container.
An old pill bottle, a film container, a plastic bottle of Coca-Cola, whatever you have lying around (with a lid!) will do. Be sure to wash it first, though; you'll be putting the side of the bottle in your mouth.
One hole needs to be centered on the bottom and the other centered on the side.
A 5/16" drill bit is best for a standard pen, but it can vary. Choose a drill bit that matches the width of your pen, as the pen will be inserted through the hole shortly.
1-2. Deconstruct a regular pen.
You know, the kind they give you at hotels and seminars for free. A straight-tubed, not fancy, ballpoint pen with no frills. There are three steps to this:
Unscrew the cap surrounding the ink point.
Take out the guts -- the ink, the spring -- to create an empty barrel for your BBs to fly through.
Ram out the lid at the top with a screwdriver or other slim, pointed object.
A sturdy straw will also do the trick.
1-3. Insert the pen into the hole in the bottom of your container.
It should protrude about 1/2" (1.25 cm) into the inside of the container. A regular pen should fit fairly snugly into a hole drilled with a 5/16" bit.
It's a good idea to hot glue the barrel to the bottom of the medicine bottle. Just put a ring of glue around the pen where it meets the edge of the container. This way no air will escape, pressurizing your BBs.
1-4. Unscrew the cap and put some BBs inside.
A little less than half full is ideal.
1-5. Blow in the hole in the side and watch the BBs come out the barrel.
Experiment with distance and aim -- you should be able to go a considerable distance away (the length of your garage, say) and still maintain direction and velocity.
Do inhale with your mouth up against the container. You could inhale pellets and choke. Instead, take a breath away from the gun and then blow inside.
2. Using an Air Compressor
2-1. Thread the adapter into the blowgun and remove the nozzle.
By blowgun, we mean one that attaches to an air compressor -- not a blowgun you would use to throw poison darts into your nearest enemy. Screw the adapter in until it's sturdy and tight.
The nozzle of the blowgun (where it would connect to the tube of an air compressor) will twist out counterclockwise.
2-2. Drill a hole into the side of the soda bottle.
It should be about 1" (2.5 cm) below the bulge in the top of the bottle. It should also match the size of the nozzle of the blowgun that you just threaded out.
If you refer the method above, you'll see that a regular pen requires a 5/16" drill bit. Your nozzle is probably just a bit bigger than that.
2-3. Insert the nozzle into the hole from the inside.
This is the trickiest part:
Put the nozzle into the bottle.
With a metal file or other similar, long, thin object, pick up the nozzle.
Place it snugly into the drilled hole, threaded part sticking out.
2-4. Screw the blowgun into the nozzle.
Keep the metal file supporting the nozzle so the weight of the blowgun doesn't dislodge it. Be patient as you thread the blowgun onto the nozzle.
Once it's tightened, the blowgun should be sturdy and unmoving. At this point, the soda bottle and blowgun base should be as one.
2-5. Drill a hole into your bottle cap.
It needs to match the size of your brake line. It's better to start off a bit smaller and have to make it bigger -- though you could always easily find another bottle cap.
2-6. Thread the brake line onto the bottle cap.
Pull the line through so the entire tube is through the cap, bolts and nut on the exposed end.
If available, it's wise to seal the drilled hole on the cap with hot glue. This will also hold the line in place, creating a foolproof vacuum.
2-7. Fill the bottle with Airsoft pellets.
About halfway is ideal.
2-8. Screw the barrel in place and attach to an air compressor.
Make sure everything is sealed up nice and tight and attach the base of the blowgun to your air compressor.
Alternatively, you can also use a backpack air supply to fuel your gun.
2-9. Fire away!
Your gun is ready to start decimating. Just unscrew the barrel to refill with pellets.
Warnings
Don't inhale any BBs!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:18",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Quick and Easy\\n1-1. Drill 2 holes in a small container.\\nAn old pill bottle, a film container, a plastic bottle of Coca-Cola, whatever you have lying around (with a lid!) will do. Be sure to wash it first, though; you'll be putting the side of the bottle in your mouth.\\nOne hole needs to be centered on the bottom and the other centered on the side.\\nA 5/16\\\" drill bit is best for a standard pen, but it can vary. Choose a drill bit that matches the width of your pen, as the pen will be inserted through the hole shortly.\\n1-2. Deconstruct a regular pen.\\nYou know, the kind they give you at hotels and seminars for free. A straight-tubed, not fancy, ballpoint pen with no frills. There are three steps to this:\\nUnscrew the cap surrounding the ink point.\\nTake out the guts -- the ink, the spring -- to create an empty barrel for your BBs to fly through.\\nRam out the lid at the top with a screwdriver or other slim, pointed object.\\nA sturdy straw will also do the trick.\\n1-3. Insert the pen into the hole in the bottom of your container.\\nIt should protrude about 1/2\\\" (1.25 cm) into the inside of the container. A regular pen should fit fairly snugly into a hole drilled with a 5/16\\\" bit.\\nIt's a good idea to hot glue the barrel to the bottom of the medicine bottle. Just put a ring of glue around the pen where it meets the edge of the container. This way no air will escape, pressurizing your BBs.\\n1-4. Unscrew the cap and put some BBs inside.\\nA little less than half full is ideal.\\n1-5. Blow in the hole in the side and watch the BBs come out the barrel.\\nExperiment with distance and aim -- you should be able to go a considerable distance away (the length of your garage, say) and still maintain direction and velocity.\\nDo inhale with your mouth up against the container. You could inhale pellets and choke. Instead, take a breath away from the gun and then blow inside.\\n2. Using an Air Compressor\\n2-1. Thread the adapter into the blowgun and remove the nozzle.\\nBy blowgun, we mean one that attaches to an air compressor -- not a blowgun you would use to throw poison darts into your nearest enemy. Screw the adapter in until it's sturdy and tight.\\nThe nozzle of the blowgun (where it would connect to the tube of an air compressor) will twist out counterclockwise.\\n2-2. Drill a hole into the side of the soda bottle.\\nIt should be about 1\\\" (2.5 cm) below the bulge in the top of the bottle. It should also match the size of the nozzle of the blowgun that you just threaded out.\\nIf you refer the method above, you'll see that a regular pen requires a 5/16\\\" drill bit. Your nozzle is probably just a bit bigger than that.\\n2-3. Insert the nozzle into the hole from the inside.\\nThis is the trickiest part:\\nPut the nozzle into the bottle.\\nWith a metal file or other similar, long, thin object, pick up the nozzle.\\nPlace it snugly into the drilled hole, threaded part sticking out.\\n2-4. Screw the blowgun into the nozzle.\\nKeep the metal file supporting the nozzle so the weight of the blowgun doesn't dislodge it. Be patient as you thread the blowgun onto the nozzle.\\nOnce it's tightened, the blowgun should be sturdy and unmoving. At this point, the soda bottle and blowgun base should be as one.\\n2-5. Drill a hole into your bottle cap.\\nIt needs to match the size of your brake line. It's better to start off a bit smaller and have to make it bigger -- though you could always easily find another bottle cap.\\n2-6. Thread the brake line onto the bottle cap.\\nPull the line through so the entire tube is through the cap, bolts and nut on the exposed end.\\nIf available, it's wise to seal the drilled hole on the cap with hot glue. This will also hold the line in place, creating a foolproof vacuum.\\n2-7. Fill the bottle with Airsoft pellets.\\nAbout halfway is ideal.\\n2-8. Screw the barrel in place and attach to an air compressor.\\nMake sure everything is sealed up nice and tight and attach the base of the blowgun to your air compressor.\\nAlternatively, you can also use a backpack air supply to fuel your gun.\\n2-9. Fire away!\\nYour gun is ready to start decimating. Just unscrew the barrel to refill with pellets.\\nWarnings\\nDon't inhale any BBs!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A homemade Airsoft gun can be constructed in a couple of ways -- either with your own breath as a source of power or an air compressor. Either method will take a matter of minutes and will result in a powerful tool. See Step 1 below of your preferred method to begin.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Quick and Easy\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill 2 holes in a small container.\", \"描述\": \"An old pill bottle, a film container, a plastic bottle of Coca-Cola, whatever you have lying around (with a lid!) will do. Be sure to wash it first, though; you'll be putting the side of the bottle in your mouth.\\nOne hole needs to be centered on the bottom and the other centered on the side.\\nA 5/16\\\" drill bit is best for a standard pen, but it can vary. Choose a drill bit that matches the width of your pen, as the pen will be inserted through the hole shortly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Deconstruct a regular pen.\", \"描述\": \"You know, the kind they give you at hotels and seminars for free. A straight-tubed, not fancy, ballpoint pen with no frills. There are three steps to this:\\nUnscrew the cap surrounding the ink point.\\nTake out the guts -- the ink, the spring -- to create an empty barrel for your BBs to fly through.\\nRam out the lid at the top with a screwdriver or other slim, pointed object.\\nA sturdy straw will also do the trick.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the pen into the hole in the bottom of your container.\", \"描述\": \"It should protrude about 1/2\\\" (1.25 cm) into the inside of the container. A regular pen should fit fairly snugly into a hole drilled with a 5/16\\\" bit.\\nIt's a good idea to hot glue the barrel to the bottom of the medicine bottle. Just put a ring of glue around the pen where it meets the edge of the container. This way no air will escape, pressurizing your BBs.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Unscrew the cap and put some BBs inside.\", \"描述\": \"A little less than half full is ideal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Blow in the hole in the side and watch the BBs come out the barrel.\", \"描述\": \"Experiment with distance and aim -- you should be able to go a considerable distance away (the length of your garage, say) and still maintain direction and velocity.\\nDo inhale with your mouth up against the container. You could inhale pellets and choke. Instead, take a breath away from the gun and then blow inside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using an Air Compressor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Thread the adapter into the blowgun and remove the nozzle.\", \"描述\": \"By blowgun, we mean one that attaches to an air compressor -- not a blowgun you would use to throw poison darts into your nearest enemy. Screw the adapter in until it's sturdy and tight.\\nThe nozzle of the blowgun (where it would connect to the tube of an air compressor) will twist out counterclockwise.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole into the side of the soda bottle.\", \"描述\": \"It should be about 1\\\" (2.5 cm) below the bulge in the top of the bottle. It should also match the size of the nozzle of the blowgun that you just threaded out.\\nIf you refer the method above, you'll see that a regular pen requires a 5/16\\\" drill bit. Your nozzle is probably just a bit bigger than that.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert the nozzle into the hole from the inside.\", \"描述\": \"This is the trickiest part:\\nPut the nozzle into the bottle.\\nWith a metal file or other similar, long, thin object, pick up the nozzle.\\nPlace it snugly into the drilled hole, threaded part sticking out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the blowgun into the nozzle.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the metal file supporting the nozzle so the weight of the blowgun doesn't dislodge it. Be patient as you thread the blowgun onto the nozzle.\\nOnce it's tightened, the blowgun should be sturdy and unmoving. At this point, the soda bottle and blowgun base should be as one.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole into your bottle cap.\", \"描述\": \"It needs to match the size of your brake line. It's better to start off a bit smaller and have to make it bigger -- though you could always easily find another bottle cap.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Thread the brake line onto the bottle cap.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the line through so the entire tube is through the cap, bolts and nut on the exposed end.\\nIf available, it's wise to seal the drilled hole on the cap with hot glue. This will also hold the line in place, creating a foolproof vacuum.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottle with Airsoft pellets.\", \"描述\": \"About halfway is ideal.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw the barrel in place and attach to an air compressor.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure everything is sealed up nice and tight and attach the base of the blowgun to your air compressor.\\nAlternatively, you can also use a backpack air supply to fuel your gun.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fire away!\", \"描述\": \"Your gun is ready to start decimating. Just unscrew the barrel to refill with pellets.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't inhale any BBs!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,641 |
How to Build an Ant Farm
|
1. Gathering Supplies and Ants
1-1. Get two glass jars with lids.
You'll need a large jar and a smaller one that just fits inside. The dirt and ants will be placed in the space between the small jar and the large jar. The small jar functions as a way to take up space in the middle so that the ant colony will build tunnels and lay eggs close to the outer edge, putting these processes in plain view. Skipping this step will allow the ants to burrow deep toward the middle of the jar, which they'll naturally want to do.
Different-sized canning jars are perfect for this project. But, if you want your ants to be happy, then buy a larger container.
Look for jars without etching, print or raised numbers and letters. Plain, clear glass will give you the best view of the ants.
If you'd prefer to have a flat ant farm, check out your local pet store and purchase a skinny aquarium. You can also order an ant farm setup from online retailers.
1-2. Prepare a soil and sand mixture.
The ants will need a loose substrate that stays moist and allows them to dig and tunnel. If you're planning to source the ants from your yard or a nearby area, your best bet is to use dirt they already naturally live in. Dig up enough dirt to fill up the extra space in your jar. Use a fork or your fingers to loosen the dirt until it's nice and fine. Now mix 2 parts dirt with 1 part sand - less if your dirt is already naturally quite sandy.
If you aren't planning on getting your ants from a nearby location and the dirt you have on hand doesn't seem suitable, you can buy potting soil and sand from a gardening store and mix it to serve as your substrate.
If you order an ant farm kit, it should come with the right mixture for those particular ants.
You want the mix to be slightly moist, but not soaking wet. If it's too dry, the ants will dry out; if it's too wet, they'll drown.
1-3. Find an anthill.
There are many species of ants and, by and large, they nest in the ground. Look for anthills in slightly exposed areas in your yard. You'll know it's an anthill by observing the tell-tale volcano-shaped pile of small grains of dirt, with a tiny entrance hole near the top.
Tracking ants is another good way to find an anthill. If you see a group of ants walking, follow them back to their nest.
Observe the anthill to make sure you aren't dealing with fire ants or another type of ant that bites or stings badly. Brown field ants are a good bet. If you want to be on the safe side, order your ants online as part of an ant farm kit.
1-4. Collect the ants.
Once you've identified an ant colony, bring a jar with a few holes poked in the top (not one of your ant farm jars) outside, alone with a large spoon, and scoop some ants into the jar. 20 - 25 ants should be a good amount to get your ant farm started. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
The ants probably won't reproduce unless you include a queen in your ant farm. An ant colony's queen lays all the eggs, and a group of worker ants - those you're likely to see close to the surface of an anthill - are likely to be sterile. Therefore, if you want to see ants go through the process of laying eggs, you'll need to get a queen - which can be tricky and would require destroying the natural ant colony.
If you're set on seeing the reproductive cycle, a better bet may be to order a kit that comes with a queen ant. That way, you won't have to worry about digging deep into the ant's nest to get what you need.
Another method is to catch a queen during its nuptial flight and raise a colony from just a queen.
If you create a farm without a queen, the ants will probably die within 3 - 4 weeks, which is their natural lifespan.
2. Assembling Your Farm
2-1. Place a cap on the smaller jar and set it inside the larger one.
To keep it centered in the middle of the larger jar, you can put a dab of glue or tape on the bottom before you set it inside. Make sure you put the lid on securely since you don't want ants accidentally falling in.
2-2. Fill the remaining space in the jar with the dirt mixture.
Use a funnel to neatly fill the extra space with dirt, or spoon it in. The dirt should not be tightly packed; make sure it's nice and loose, so the ants will be able to move around. Leave about an inch of empty space at the top of the jar.
You will now have created a layer of dirt that will serve as the ants' home.
The inch of empty space will keep the ants from climbing up the glass and out of the jar when you need to open the lid.
2-3. Place the ants in the jar and screw on the top lid.
Carefully drop the ants in the jar, making sure they all make it into the fine dirt you provided. Cover the jar and use an awl or a sharp knife to puncture it with tiny holes, to allow oxygen to reach the ants.
Make sure not to punch the holes too large, or the ants will escape and build a nest elsewhere.
Don't cover the jar with cloth, as ants will be able to chew their way out.
3. Maintaining Your Farm
3-1. Offer them food and moisture.
In order to keep your ants happy, you can feed them every few days with a few drops of honey, jam, or pieces of fruit - ants love sugar! If you have a queen you will need to give the colony feeder insects to feed the next generation. Don't overdo it, or you'll have mold in your ant farm. Ants can get most of the moisture they need from a wet cotton ball with water and place it at the top of the jar.
Don't give the ants meat or other cooked food. This will attract other types of pests to your ant farm.
Don't pour water into the jar. It'll get too wet, and the ants could drown.
3-2. Cover the jar when you aren't watching the ants.
Ants do their tunneling at night, in the dark. To replicate the environment they're used to, cover the jar with black cloth or construction paper when you're not watching the ants. If you forget to do this, the ants will be stressed out and much less active. They'll also tend to stay away from the glass and spend their time as close as possible to the center of the jar.
3-3. Don't shake the jar.
Ants are fragile creatures, and shaking the jar or otherwise handling it roughly can cause them to die when their tunnels collapse on them. Handle the ant farm carefully.
3-4. Store the farm in a warm room.
Place it in a room that tends to stay at a good steady temperature. Don't place it in direct sunlight, or the glass jar might heat up too much and overheat the ants.
Tips
When handling with ants make sure they all come from the colony or they will kill each other.
If you feed the ants make sure you clean up any leftovers which will prevent building up of mold which will kill the ants.
Red ants are usually very aggressive, and black ants are typically more passive
Warnings
If you decide to feed your ants dead insects, ensure that they weren't poisoned, as it can hurt, or even kill, your 'colony'.
NEVER mix two ant colonies together, they will fight until death and it is cruel to the ants. So if you're catching them not ordering them, make sure you only catch one hill.
All ants can bite you, but rarely will they, so don't let this put you off, but if you are keeping stinging ants, they can bite AND have quite a nasty sting, so be very careful. Use gloves.
Avoid any ants that are known to be very aggressive towards humans and have painful or dangerous bites unless you have experience keeping non stinging species.
Do not cover the lid of the ant farm - the ants could suffocate. If you must cover it, use a paper towel secured with a rubber band and poke small holes with an earring or pin. Or a fine wire netting.
Be careful of ant bites. If you can use gloves, that's great. To treat ant bites, use calamine lotion or a pharmacy approved itching cream. Ask your pharmacist for assistance.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering Supplies and Ants\\n1-1. Get two glass jars with lids.\\nYou'll need a large jar and a smaller one that just fits inside. The dirt and ants will be placed in the space between the small jar and the large jar. The small jar functions as a way to take up space in the middle so that the ant colony will build tunnels and lay eggs close to the outer edge, putting these processes in plain view. Skipping this step will allow the ants to burrow deep toward the middle of the jar, which they'll naturally want to do.\\nDifferent-sized canning jars are perfect for this project. But, if you want your ants to be happy, then buy a larger container.\\nLook for jars without etching, print or raised numbers and letters. Plain, clear glass will give you the best view of the ants.\\nIf you'd prefer to have a flat ant farm, check out your local pet store and purchase a skinny aquarium. You can also order an ant farm setup from online retailers.\\n1-2. Prepare a soil and sand mixture.\\nThe ants will need a loose substrate that stays moist and allows them to dig and tunnel. If you're planning to source the ants from your yard or a nearby area, your best bet is to use dirt they already naturally live in. Dig up enough dirt to fill up the extra space in your jar. Use a fork or your fingers to loosen the dirt until it's nice and fine. Now mix 2 parts dirt with 1 part sand - less if your dirt is already naturally quite sandy. \\nIf you aren't planning on getting your ants from a nearby location and the dirt you have on hand doesn't seem suitable, you can buy potting soil and sand from a gardening store and mix it to serve as your substrate.\\nIf you order an ant farm kit, it should come with the right mixture for those particular ants.\\nYou want the mix to be slightly moist, but not soaking wet. If it's too dry, the ants will dry out; if it's too wet, they'll drown.\\n1-3. Find an anthill.\\nThere are many species of ants and, by and large, they nest in the ground. Look for anthills in slightly exposed areas in your yard. You'll know it's an anthill by observing the tell-tale volcano-shaped pile of small grains of dirt, with a tiny entrance hole near the top.\\nTracking ants is another good way to find an anthill. If you see a group of ants walking, follow them back to their nest.\\nObserve the anthill to make sure you aren't dealing with fire ants or another type of ant that bites or stings badly. Brown field ants are a good bet. If you want to be on the safe side, order your ants online as part of an ant farm kit.\\n1-4. Collect the ants.\\nOnce you've identified an ant colony, bring a jar with a few holes poked in the top (not one of your ant farm jars) outside, alone with a large spoon, and scoop some ants into the jar. 20 - 25 ants should be a good amount to get your ant farm started. Here are a few things to keep in mind:\\nThe ants probably won't reproduce unless you include a queen in your ant farm. An ant colony's queen lays all the eggs, and a group of worker ants - those you're likely to see close to the surface of an anthill - are likely to be sterile. Therefore, if you want to see ants go through the process of laying eggs, you'll need to get a queen - which can be tricky and would require destroying the natural ant colony.\\nIf you're set on seeing the reproductive cycle, a better bet may be to order a kit that comes with a queen ant. That way, you won't have to worry about digging deep into the ant's nest to get what you need.\\nAnother method is to catch a queen during its nuptial flight and raise a colony from just a queen.\\nIf you create a farm without a queen, the ants will probably die within 3 - 4 weeks, which is their natural lifespan.\\n2. Assembling Your Farm\\n2-1. Place a cap on the smaller jar and set it inside the larger one.\\nTo keep it centered in the middle of the larger jar, you can put a dab of glue or tape on the bottom before you set it inside. Make sure you put the lid on securely since you don't want ants accidentally falling in.\\n2-2. Fill the remaining space in the jar with the dirt mixture.\\nUse a funnel to neatly fill the extra space with dirt, or spoon it in. The dirt should not be tightly packed; make sure it's nice and loose, so the ants will be able to move around. Leave about an inch of empty space at the top of the jar.\\nYou will now have created a layer of dirt that will serve as the ants' home.\\nThe inch of empty space will keep the ants from climbing up the glass and out of the jar when you need to open the lid.\\n2-3. Place the ants in the jar and screw on the top lid.\\nCarefully drop the ants in the jar, making sure they all make it into the fine dirt you provided. Cover the jar and use an awl or a sharp knife to puncture it with tiny holes, to allow oxygen to reach the ants.\\nMake sure not to punch the holes too large, or the ants will escape and build a nest elsewhere.\\nDon't cover the jar with cloth, as ants will be able to chew their way out.\\n3. Maintaining Your Farm\\n3-1. Offer them food and moisture.\\nIn order to keep your ants happy, you can feed them every few days with a few drops of honey, jam, or pieces of fruit - ants love sugar! If you have a queen you will need to give the colony feeder insects to feed the next generation. Don't overdo it, or you'll have mold in your ant farm. Ants can get most of the moisture they need from a wet cotton ball with water and place it at the top of the jar.\\nDon't give the ants meat or other cooked food. This will attract other types of pests to your ant farm.\\nDon't pour water into the jar. It'll get too wet, and the ants could drown.\\n3-2. Cover the jar when you aren't watching the ants.\\nAnts do their tunneling at night, in the dark. To replicate the environment they're used to, cover the jar with black cloth or construction paper when you're not watching the ants. If you forget to do this, the ants will be stressed out and much less active. They'll also tend to stay away from the glass and spend their time as close as possible to the center of the jar.\\n3-3. Don't shake the jar.\\nAnts are fragile creatures, and shaking the jar or otherwise handling it roughly can cause them to die when their tunnels collapse on them. Handle the ant farm carefully.\\n3-4. Store the farm in a warm room.\\nPlace it in a room that tends to stay at a good steady temperature. Don't place it in direct sunlight, or the glass jar might heat up too much and overheat the ants.\\nTips\\nWhen handling with ants make sure they all come from the colony or they will kill each other.\\nIf you feed the ants make sure you clean up any leftovers which will prevent building up of mold which will kill the ants.\\nRed ants are usually very aggressive, and black ants are typically more passive\\nWarnings\\nIf you decide to feed your ants dead insects, ensure that they weren't poisoned, as it can hurt, or even kill, your 'colony'.\\nNEVER mix two ant colonies together, they will fight until death and it is cruel to the ants. So if you're catching them not ordering them, make sure you only catch one hill.\\nAll ants can bite you, but rarely will they, so don't let this put you off, but if you are keeping stinging ants, they can bite AND have quite a nasty sting, so be very careful. Use gloves.\\nAvoid any ants that are known to be very aggressive towards humans and have painful or dangerous bites unless you have experience keeping non stinging species.\\nDo not cover the lid of the ant farm - the ants could suffocate. If you must cover it, use a paper towel secured with a rubber band and poke small holes with an earring or pin. Or a fine wire netting.\\nBe careful of ant bites. If you can use gloves, that's great. To treat ant bites, use calamine lotion or a pharmacy approved itching cream. Ask your pharmacist for assistance.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you've ever examined an anthill and wondered what's beneath the surface, creating your own ant farm will be a fascinating learning experience. Introducing an ant colony to your own farm will give you a first-rate view of ants building intricate tunnels and paths, then scurrying through like they're on a mission. See Step 1 to learn how to make an ant farm using simple materials you may already have on hand.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering Supplies and Ants\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get two glass jars with lids.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need a large jar and a smaller one that just fits inside. The dirt and ants will be placed in the space between the small jar and the large jar. The small jar functions as a way to take up space in the middle so that the ant colony will build tunnels and lay eggs close to the outer edge, putting these processes in plain view. Skipping this step will allow the ants to burrow deep toward the middle of the jar, which they'll naturally want to do.\\nDifferent-sized canning jars are perfect for this project. But, if you want your ants to be happy, then buy a larger container.\\nLook for jars without etching, print or raised numbers and letters. Plain, clear glass will give you the best view of the ants.\\nIf you'd prefer to have a flat ant farm, check out your local pet store and purchase a skinny aquarium. You can also order an ant farm setup from online retailers.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare a soil and sand mixture.\", \"描述\": \"The ants will need a loose substrate that stays moist and allows them to dig and tunnel. If you're planning to source the ants from your yard or a nearby area, your best bet is to use dirt they already naturally live in. Dig up enough dirt to fill up the extra space in your jar. Use a fork or your fingers to loosen the dirt until it's nice and fine. Now mix 2 parts dirt with 1 part sand - less if your dirt is already naturally quite sandy. \\nIf you aren't planning on getting your ants from a nearby location and the dirt you have on hand doesn't seem suitable, you can buy potting soil and sand from a gardening store and mix it to serve as your substrate.\\nIf you order an ant farm kit, it should come with the right mixture for those particular ants.\\nYou want the mix to be slightly moist, but not soaking wet. If it's too dry, the ants will dry out; if it's too wet, they'll drown.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find an anthill.\", \"描述\": \"There are many species of ants and, by and large, they nest in the ground. Look for anthills in slightly exposed areas in your yard. You'll know it's an anthill by observing the tell-tale volcano-shaped pile of small grains of dirt, with a tiny entrance hole near the top.\\nTracking ants is another good way to find an anthill. If you see a group of ants walking, follow them back to their nest.\\nObserve the anthill to make sure you aren't dealing with fire ants or another type of ant that bites or stings badly. Brown field ants are a good bet. If you want to be on the safe side, order your ants online as part of an ant farm kit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Collect the ants.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've identified an ant colony, bring a jar with a few holes poked in the top (not one of your ant farm jars) outside, alone with a large spoon, and scoop some ants into the jar. 20 - 25 ants should be a good amount to get your ant farm started. Here are a few things to keep in mind:\\nThe ants probably won't reproduce unless you include a queen in your ant farm. An ant colony's queen lays all the eggs, and a group of worker ants - those you're likely to see close to the surface of an anthill - are likely to be sterile. Therefore, if you want to see ants go through the process of laying eggs, you'll need to get a queen - which can be tricky and would require destroying the natural ant colony.\\nIf you're set on seeing the reproductive cycle, a better bet may be to order a kit that comes with a queen ant. That way, you won't have to worry about digging deep into the ant's nest to get what you need.\\nAnother method is to catch a queen during its nuptial flight and raise a colony from just a queen.\\nIf you create a farm without a queen, the ants will probably die within 3 - 4 weeks, which is their natural lifespan.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling Your Farm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a cap on the smaller jar and set it inside the larger one.\", \"描述\": \"To keep it centered in the middle of the larger jar, you can put a dab of glue or tape on the bottom before you set it inside. Make sure you put the lid on securely since you don't want ants accidentally falling in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the remaining space in the jar with the dirt mixture.\", \"描述\": \"Use a funnel to neatly fill the extra space with dirt, or spoon it in. The dirt should not be tightly packed; make sure it's nice and loose, so the ants will be able to move around. Leave about an inch of empty space at the top of the jar.\\nYou will now have created a layer of dirt that will serve as the ants' home.\\nThe inch of empty space will keep the ants from climbing up the glass and out of the jar when you need to open the lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the ants in the jar and screw on the top lid.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully drop the ants in the jar, making sure they all make it into the fine dirt you provided. Cover the jar and use an awl or a sharp knife to puncture it with tiny holes, to allow oxygen to reach the ants.\\nMake sure not to punch the holes too large, or the ants will escape and build a nest elsewhere.\\nDon't cover the jar with cloth, as ants will be able to chew their way out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining Your Farm\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Offer them food and moisture.\", \"描述\": \"In order to keep your ants happy, you can feed them every few days with a few drops of honey, jam, or pieces of fruit - ants love sugar! If you have a queen you will need to give the colony feeder insects to feed the next generation. Don't overdo it, or you'll have mold in your ant farm. Ants can get most of the moisture they need from a wet cotton ball with water and place it at the top of the jar.\\nDon't give the ants meat or other cooked food. This will attract other types of pests to your ant farm.\\nDon't pour water into the jar. It'll get too wet, and the ants could drown.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cover the jar when you aren't watching the ants.\", \"描述\": \"Ants do their tunneling at night, in the dark. To replicate the environment they're used to, cover the jar with black cloth or construction paper when you're not watching the ants. If you forget to do this, the ants will be stressed out and much less active. They'll also tend to stay away from the glass and spend their time as close as possible to the center of the jar.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Don't shake the jar.\", \"描述\": \"Ants are fragile creatures, and shaking the jar or otherwise handling it roughly can cause them to die when their tunnels collapse on them. Handle the ant farm carefully.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Store the farm in a warm room.\", \"描述\": \"Place it in a room that tends to stay at a good steady temperature. Don't place it in direct sunlight, or the glass jar might heat up too much and overheat the ants.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When handling with ants make sure they all come from the colony or they will kill each other.\\n\", \"If you feed the ants make sure you clean up any leftovers which will prevent building up of mold which will kill the ants.\\n\", \"Red ants are usually very aggressive, and black ants are typically more passive\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you decide to feed your ants dead insects, ensure that they weren't poisoned, as it can hurt, or even kill, your 'colony'.\\n\", \"NEVER mix two ant colonies together, they will fight until death and it is cruel to the ants. So if you're catching them not ordering them, make sure you only catch one hill.\\n\", \"All ants can bite you, but rarely will they, so don't let this put you off, but if you are keeping stinging ants, they can bite AND have quite a nasty sting, so be very careful. Use gloves.\\n\", \"Avoid any ants that are known to be very aggressive towards humans and have painful or dangerous bites unless you have experience keeping non stinging species.\\n\", \"Do not cover the lid of the ant farm - the ants could suffocate. If you must cover it, use a paper towel secured with a rubber band and poke small holes with an earring or pin. Or a fine wire netting.\\n\", \"Be careful of ant bites. If you can use gloves, that's great. To treat ant bites, use calamine lotion or a pharmacy approved itching cream. Ask your pharmacist for assistance.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,642 |
How to Build an Antweight Combat Robot
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1. Steps
1-1. Understand the Rules Before designing a robot to compete, you must understand all the rules.
The rules can be found here. The most important building rules that you need to be paying attention to are the size/weight requirements (4"X4"X4" 150 grams) and the metal armor rule that says you cannot have metal armor more the 1mm thick.
1-2. What Weapon Will You Use?
A big part of the combat robot is the weapon. Think up an idea for a weapon, but make sure it fits within the rules. For your first antweight bot it's highly recommended going with a "flipper" or even a "pusher". A flipper is just a weapon that wedges itself underneath another robot and pushes up to flip them over. A flipper weapon, when designed properly, can be the most effective weapon in the Antweight Class. A pusher is the simplest weapon because there is no active weapon. The whole robot acts as a weapon by pushing the other robots around. This is effective because of the rule that states that half of the arena can't be walled. You can push the other robot out of the arena.
1-3. Choose Your Parts.Yes, you need to choose your parts before designing.
However, don't buy them, yet. Just choose your parts and design accordingly. If something doesn't fit or doesn't work while you are still designing, you save money because you can switch parts now. Again, do not buy the parts, yet!
Choose Drive Servos It's usually recommended using servos instead of motors for an beginner's antweight because with servos, you do not need a speed controller which saves money and precious weight on your robot. You should look for "micro" servos because they will save you a lot of weight. Be sure to make sure the servo is 360 modifiable. It's recommended getting high torque servos for combat robots instead of high speed so it's easy to push other robots around, even if you have a separate weapon.
If you cannot find a servo that suits your needs perfectly, consider checking out another section on that site that sells "Futaba" servos. Futaba is a different brand that makes servos. Sometimes they have different sizes than the HiTech brand.
Choose a Weapon motor If you have an active weapon (i.e. aren't creating a "pusher"), then you probably need a motor to move the weapon. If you have a weapon that needs to move really fast (i.e. a spinning weapon), then you should get a geared DC motor (Brushless generally works better, but brushed would work) with a speed controller. It's not recommended using a spinning weapon for your first antweight because they can be difficult to build and balance properly. However, if you are creating a flipper weapon, then you want to use a servo. It's recommended to get a micro servo with extremely high torque so it can flip other robots with ease. Another thing to consider when looking for a weapon servo is the type of gears. If you use nylon gears and the motor gets a lot of stress, the gears can strip out over time. Try getting stronger gears made out of metal.
Choose Wheels When choosing wheels, be sure to remember the rule that says the robot has to be able to fit within a 4"X4"X4" cube. This means you have to have wheels that have a diameter less than this. It's recommended to use 2" diameter wheel. Be sure that the wheels can easily attach to the servos securely. Another great technique to use in combat robots of any size is the ability to drive upside down. Yes, the controls will be a bit backwards, but it can prevent you from losing the competition from being immobile. So consider making your robot shorter than your wheels so that it can drive upside down.
Choose a Transmitter/Receiver When purchasing a receiver make sure that it has what is called "Fail-Safe operation". It is a rule to have this in most competitions and a safety feature. The AR500 Receiver does not have this. You will need to purchase a BR6000 Bot Receiver, or another receiver that has this feature. For a transmitter it's recommended using the Spektrum DX5e. If you built the Remote Controlled Robot found in the related wikiHows, you can reuse that transmitter, but you must buy a new receiver.
Choose a Battery It's highly recommended getting a LiPo battery instead of a NiMH battery. LiPo batteries are lighter. However, they are more dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Invest the money into a LiPo battery and a charger to save on the precious weight.
Choose a Material The material the chassis and armor is made out of on a combat robot is extremely important because it is what prevents enemy weapons from piercing your electric components. There are three main choices that you should choose from: (Note: There are more, but these are the best for this particular weight class) Aluminum, Titanium, and Polycarbonate. Aluminum is light weight and strong, but it can be expensive and hard to cut. Plus it can not be more than 1mm at all. Titanium is light weight and extremely strong, but is hard to cut and extremely expensive. This also is subject to the 1 mm thickness rule. Polycarbonate, or lexan, is a lightweight, inexpensive, easy to cut, shatterproof, strong plastic that is sometimes used in bullet proofing. Polycarbonate is also a plastic so it can be as thick as you want, but it's recommended to get it about 1 mm thick. It's highly recommended using polycarbonate. It's so durable that this plastic is the plastic that makes up the arena walls for antweight competitions. When you purchase it be sure to get extra, in case you mess up.
1-4. Get Specifications Now that you have all your parts selected, you need to get size and weight specs.
They should be listed on the website where you purchased them from. Convert all values in inches into mm using a converter. Write the specs (in mm) on a sheet of paper for all your components. Now, convert all weight values (oz, lb) into grams using a converter. Write the weight specs on a piece of paper.
1-5. Design It Out You want the design to be as precise as possible.
This means you should try your best to make the design 3D on a computer, rather than 2D on a sheet of paper. However, the 3D design doesn't need to look complex, a simple one made of rectangular prisms and cylinders will be sufficient.
Add up the weight of the parts (in grams) and be sure they total less than 150 grams.
If you don't have CAD, download the free version of Sketchup.
Take some of the free tutorials on Sketchup to learn all the basics.
Create all the components you are using on Sketchup using the size specs you wrote down.
Design out your chassis and armor. Be sure to make it less than 4X4X4 inches.
Fit all the components into the 3D chassis/armor model to see if they fit at the same time. This will also help you decide where the components will be.
1-6. Order Your Parts If all your components fit into your design flawlessly, order your parts.
If not, consider new parts.
1-7. Assemble It Now, you need to put together your chassis/armor.
Put all your components in where you put them in your design. Plug everything in and test it out. You should try to assemble it in a way that you can easily take out components in case they need to be replaced. The components may need to be replaced more than a regular robot because this robot will be fighting. The attacking robots could damage yours. It's recommended to use Velcro to hold the components in.
1-8. Practice Driving No matter how good of a robot you have, if you fall off, you lose.
Before even thinking about competing, you will need to practice driving. Use upside down cups for cones and drive through. Use Styrofoam cups for targets and attack them (try to do this on a small table so you can practice pushing them off and not falling off yourself). Even try to purchase a cheap RC car (on a different frequency as your robot), have another person drive it on a table, and try to knock them off or destroy the car, without falling off yourself. If you know another person with an Antweight robot, have friendly fights with him (if possible, replace spinning weapons with a less destructive plastic weapon).
1-9. Compete Find a competition in your area and have fun destroying other robots!
Remember that if you are going to compete in the US, you will need to look for Fairy Weight competitions, not Antweight..
Tips
If you want to make your robot punch, you ought to connect a servo to a spherical "shoulder", and have the arm set at a 90 degree angle, so it throws uppercuts.
Order extra parts for your robot. Since this is a combat robot, your parts may get damaged in battle. If you have extras on hand, you can replace parts quicker.
The rule says that the robot must be able to fit within a 4X4X4 inch cube, however it can expand afterward by remote control. You can make this beneficial. For example, If you flipper weapon extends out too far, try to design it so that the flipper can go straight up and is less than four inches tall, but when the flipper is put back down (after the cube is lifted), the length is greater than 4".
Warnings
Always wear safety glasses when cutting material or operating the robot.
Even combat robots this small can be dangerous. If using a spinning weapon, stand back when operating it and unplug it when working on it.
Some arenas are deemed unsafe for spinning weapons on robots. Do not try to use a spinning weapon in one of these arenas.
Even micro pneumatics are dangerous. If using pneumatics be sure to follow all safety guidelines.
LiPo Batteries are extremely dangerous. Do not charge them using a charger made for NiHM or Nicad batteries. LiPo batteries need a special charger.
LiPo Batteries can catch fire if pierced. When designing your robot, try to place the battery somewhere that it won't get pierced. If the battery does catch fire, the rules state that you can not touch the robot while it's on fire. There will be no attempt made to put it out, which means all your other components could get ruined. Protect this battery like it's the heart of the robot!
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Understand the Rules Before designing a robot to compete, you must understand all the rules.\\nThe rules can be found here. The most important building rules that you need to be paying attention to are the size/weight requirements (4\\\"X4\\\"X4\\\" 150 grams) and the metal armor rule that says you cannot have metal armor more the 1mm thick.\\n1-2. What Weapon Will You Use?\\nA big part of the combat robot is the weapon. Think up an idea for a weapon, but make sure it fits within the rules. For your first antweight bot it's highly recommended going with a \\\"flipper\\\" or even a \\\"pusher\\\". A flipper is just a weapon that wedges itself underneath another robot and pushes up to flip them over. A flipper weapon, when designed properly, can be the most effective weapon in the Antweight Class. A pusher is the simplest weapon because there is no active weapon. The whole robot acts as a weapon by pushing the other robots around. This is effective because of the rule that states that half of the arena can't be walled. You can push the other robot out of the arena.\\n1-3. Choose Your Parts.Yes, you need to choose your parts before designing.\\nHowever, don't buy them, yet. Just choose your parts and design accordingly. If something doesn't fit or doesn't work while you are still designing, you save money because you can switch parts now. Again, do not buy the parts, yet!\\nChoose Drive Servos It's usually recommended using servos instead of motors for an beginner's antweight because with servos, you do not need a speed controller which saves money and precious weight on your robot. You should look for \\\"micro\\\" servos because they will save you a lot of weight. Be sure to make sure the servo is 360 modifiable. It's recommended getting high torque servos for combat robots instead of high speed so it's easy to push other robots around, even if you have a separate weapon.\\nIf you cannot find a servo that suits your needs perfectly, consider checking out another section on that site that sells \\\"Futaba\\\" servos. Futaba is a different brand that makes servos. Sometimes they have different sizes than the HiTech brand.\\nChoose a Weapon motor If you have an active weapon (i.e. aren't creating a \\\"pusher\\\"), then you probably need a motor to move the weapon. If you have a weapon that needs to move really fast (i.e. a spinning weapon), then you should get a geared DC motor (Brushless generally works better, but brushed would work) with a speed controller. It's not recommended using a spinning weapon for your first antweight because they can be difficult to build and balance properly. However, if you are creating a flipper weapon, then you want to use a servo. It's recommended to get a micro servo with extremely high torque so it can flip other robots with ease. Another thing to consider when looking for a weapon servo is the type of gears. If you use nylon gears and the motor gets a lot of stress, the gears can strip out over time. Try getting stronger gears made out of metal.\\nChoose Wheels When choosing wheels, be sure to remember the rule that says the robot has to be able to fit within a 4\\\"X4\\\"X4\\\" cube. This means you have to have wheels that have a diameter less than this. It's recommended to use 2\\\" diameter wheel. Be sure that the wheels can easily attach to the servos securely. Another great technique to use in combat robots of any size is the ability to drive upside down. Yes, the controls will be a bit backwards, but it can prevent you from losing the competition from being immobile. So consider making your robot shorter than your wheels so that it can drive upside down.\\nChoose a Transmitter/Receiver When purchasing a receiver make sure that it has what is called \\\"Fail-Safe operation\\\". It is a rule to have this in most competitions and a safety feature. The AR500 Receiver does not have this. You will need to purchase a BR6000 Bot Receiver, or another receiver that has this feature. For a transmitter it's recommended using the Spektrum DX5e. If you built the Remote Controlled Robot found in the related wikiHows, you can reuse that transmitter, but you must buy a new receiver.\\nChoose a Battery It's highly recommended getting a LiPo battery instead of a NiMH battery. LiPo batteries are lighter. However, they are more dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Invest the money into a LiPo battery and a charger to save on the precious weight.\\nChoose a Material The material the chassis and armor is made out of on a combat robot is extremely important because it is what prevents enemy weapons from piercing your electric components. There are three main choices that you should choose from: (Note: There are more, but these are the best for this particular weight class) Aluminum, Titanium, and Polycarbonate. Aluminum is light weight and strong, but it can be expensive and hard to cut. Plus it can not be more than 1mm at all. Titanium is light weight and extremely strong, but is hard to cut and extremely expensive. This also is subject to the 1 mm thickness rule. Polycarbonate, or lexan, is a lightweight, inexpensive, easy to cut, shatterproof, strong plastic that is sometimes used in bullet proofing. Polycarbonate is also a plastic so it can be as thick as you want, but it's recommended to get it about 1 mm thick. It's highly recommended using polycarbonate. It's so durable that this plastic is the plastic that makes up the arena walls for antweight competitions. When you purchase it be sure to get extra, in case you mess up.\\n1-4. Get Specifications Now that you have all your parts selected, you need to get size and weight specs.\\nThey should be listed on the website where you purchased them from. Convert all values in inches into mm using a converter. Write the specs (in mm) on a sheet of paper for all your components. Now, convert all weight values (oz, lb) into grams using a converter. Write the weight specs on a piece of paper.\\n1-5. Design It Out You want the design to be as precise as possible.\\nThis means you should try your best to make the design 3D on a computer, rather than 2D on a sheet of paper. However, the 3D design doesn't need to look complex, a simple one made of rectangular prisms and cylinders will be sufficient.\\nAdd up the weight of the parts (in grams) and be sure they total less than 150 grams.\\nIf you don't have CAD, download the free version of Sketchup.\\nTake some of the free tutorials on Sketchup to learn all the basics.\\nCreate all the components you are using on Sketchup using the size specs you wrote down.\\nDesign out your chassis and armor. Be sure to make it less than 4X4X4 inches.\\nFit all the components into the 3D chassis/armor model to see if they fit at the same time. This will also help you decide where the components will be.\\n1-6. Order Your Parts If all your components fit into your design flawlessly, order your parts.\\nIf not, consider new parts.\\n1-7. Assemble It Now, you need to put together your chassis/armor.\\nPut all your components in where you put them in your design. Plug everything in and test it out. You should try to assemble it in a way that you can easily take out components in case they need to be replaced. The components may need to be replaced more than a regular robot because this robot will be fighting. The attacking robots could damage yours. It's recommended to use Velcro to hold the components in.\\n1-8. Practice Driving No matter how good of a robot you have, if you fall off, you lose.\\nBefore even thinking about competing, you will need to practice driving. Use upside down cups for cones and drive through. Use Styrofoam cups for targets and attack them (try to do this on a small table so you can practice pushing them off and not falling off yourself). Even try to purchase a cheap RC car (on a different frequency as your robot), have another person drive it on a table, and try to knock them off or destroy the car, without falling off yourself. If you know another person with an Antweight robot, have friendly fights with him (if possible, replace spinning weapons with a less destructive plastic weapon).\\n1-9. Compete Find a competition in your area and have fun destroying other robots!\\nRemember that if you are going to compete in the US, you will need to look for Fairy Weight competitions, not Antweight..\\nTips\\nIf you want to make your robot punch, you ought to connect a servo to a spherical \\\"shoulder\\\", and have the arm set at a 90 degree angle, so it throws uppercuts.\\nOrder extra parts for your robot. Since this is a combat robot, your parts may get damaged in battle. If you have extras on hand, you can replace parts quicker.\\nThe rule says that the robot must be able to fit within a 4X4X4 inch cube, however it can expand afterward by remote control. You can make this beneficial. For example, If you flipper weapon extends out too far, try to design it so that the flipper can go straight up and is less than four inches tall, but when the flipper is put back down (after the cube is lifted), the length is greater than 4\\\".\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear safety glasses when cutting material or operating the robot.\\nEven combat robots this small can be dangerous. If using a spinning weapon, stand back when operating it and unplug it when working on it.\\nSome arenas are deemed unsafe for spinning weapons on robots. Do not try to use a spinning weapon in one of these arenas.\\nEven micro pneumatics are dangerous. If using pneumatics be sure to follow all safety guidelines.\\nLiPo Batteries are extremely dangerous. Do not charge them using a charger made for NiHM or Nicad batteries. LiPo batteries need a special charger.\\nLiPo Batteries can catch fire if pierced. When designing your robot, try to place the battery somewhere that it won't get pierced. If the battery does catch fire, the rules state that you can not touch the robot while it's on fire. There will be no attempt made to put it out, which means all your other components could get ruined. Protect this battery like it's the heart of the robot!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever wanted to build a combat robot? You probably thought it was too dangerous and expensive. However, a lot of combat robot competitions have a weight class for 150 grams (5.3 oz), including Robot Wars. This class is called \\\"Antweight\\\" in most countries and \\\"Fairy Weight\\\" in the USA. These are a whole lot cheaper than the bigger combat robots, and aren't as dangerous. This makes them perfect for people new to combat robots. This article will tell you how to design and build an Antweight combat robot.\\n\\nNOTE: This article assumes that you have already read and built an easy RC robot. If you have not, go back and do that first. It should also be noted that this article does not recommend a specific part for use with your robot. This is to promote creativity and diversity amongst robots.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the Rules Before designing a robot to compete, you must understand all the rules.\", \"描述\": \"The rules can be found here. The most important building rules that you need to be paying attention to are the size/weight requirements (4\\\"X4\\\"X4\\\" 150 grams) and the metal armor rule that says you cannot have metal armor more the 1mm thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"What Weapon Will You Use?\", \"描述\": \"A big part of the combat robot is the weapon. Think up an idea for a weapon, but make sure it fits within the rules. For your first antweight bot it's highly recommended going with a \\\"flipper\\\" or even a \\\"pusher\\\". A flipper is just a weapon that wedges itself underneath another robot and pushes up to flip them over. A flipper weapon, when designed properly, can be the most effective weapon in the Antweight Class. A pusher is the simplest weapon because there is no active weapon. The whole robot acts as a weapon by pushing the other robots around. This is effective because of the rule that states that half of the arena can't be walled. You can push the other robot out of the arena.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose Your Parts.Yes, you need to choose your parts before designing.\", \"描述\": \"However, don't buy them, yet. Just choose your parts and design accordingly. If something doesn't fit or doesn't work while you are still designing, you save money because you can switch parts now. Again, do not buy the parts, yet!\\nChoose Drive Servos It's usually recommended using servos instead of motors for an beginner's antweight because with servos, you do not need a speed controller which saves money and precious weight on your robot. You should look for \\\"micro\\\" servos because they will save you a lot of weight. Be sure to make sure the servo is 360 modifiable. It's recommended getting high torque servos for combat robots instead of high speed so it's easy to push other robots around, even if you have a separate weapon.\\nIf you cannot find a servo that suits your needs perfectly, consider checking out another section on that site that sells \\\"Futaba\\\" servos. Futaba is a different brand that makes servos. Sometimes they have different sizes than the HiTech brand.\\nChoose a Weapon motor If you have an active weapon (i.e. aren't creating a \\\"pusher\\\"), then you probably need a motor to move the weapon. If you have a weapon that needs to move really fast (i.e. a spinning weapon), then you should get a geared DC motor (Brushless generally works better, but brushed would work) with a speed controller. It's not recommended using a spinning weapon for your first antweight because they can be difficult to build and balance properly. However, if you are creating a flipper weapon, then you want to use a servo. It's recommended to get a micro servo with extremely high torque so it can flip other robots with ease. Another thing to consider when looking for a weapon servo is the type of gears. If you use nylon gears and the motor gets a lot of stress, the gears can strip out over time. Try getting stronger gears made out of metal.\\nChoose Wheels When choosing wheels, be sure to remember the rule that says the robot has to be able to fit within a 4\\\"X4\\\"X4\\\" cube. This means you have to have wheels that have a diameter less than this. It's recommended to use 2\\\" diameter wheel. Be sure that the wheels can easily attach to the servos securely. Another great technique to use in combat robots of any size is the ability to drive upside down. Yes, the controls will be a bit backwards, but it can prevent you from losing the competition from being immobile. So consider making your robot shorter than your wheels so that it can drive upside down.\\nChoose a Transmitter/Receiver When purchasing a receiver make sure that it has what is called \\\"Fail-Safe operation\\\". It is a rule to have this in most competitions and a safety feature. The AR500 Receiver does not have this. You will need to purchase a BR6000 Bot Receiver, or another receiver that has this feature. For a transmitter it's recommended using the Spektrum DX5e. If you built the Remote Controlled Robot found in the related wikiHows, you can reuse that transmitter, but you must buy a new receiver.\\nChoose a Battery It's highly recommended getting a LiPo battery instead of a NiMH battery. LiPo batteries are lighter. However, they are more dangerous, expensive, and require a special charger. Invest the money into a LiPo battery and a charger to save on the precious weight.\\nChoose a Material The material the chassis and armor is made out of on a combat robot is extremely important because it is what prevents enemy weapons from piercing your electric components. There are three main choices that you should choose from: (Note: There are more, but these are the best for this particular weight class) Aluminum, Titanium, and Polycarbonate. Aluminum is light weight and strong, but it can be expensive and hard to cut. Plus it can not be more than 1mm at all. Titanium is light weight and extremely strong, but is hard to cut and extremely expensive. This also is subject to the 1 mm thickness rule. Polycarbonate, or lexan, is a lightweight, inexpensive, easy to cut, shatterproof, strong plastic that is sometimes used in bullet proofing. Polycarbonate is also a plastic so it can be as thick as you want, but it's recommended to get it about 1 mm thick. It's highly recommended using polycarbonate. It's so durable that this plastic is the plastic that makes up the arena walls for antweight competitions. When you purchase it be sure to get extra, in case you mess up.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get Specifications Now that you have all your parts selected, you need to get size and weight specs.\", \"描述\": \"They should be listed on the website where you purchased them from. Convert all values in inches into mm using a converter. Write the specs (in mm) on a sheet of paper for all your components. Now, convert all weight values (oz, lb) into grams using a converter. Write the weight specs on a piece of paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Design It Out You want the design to be as precise as possible.\", \"描述\": \"This means you should try your best to make the design 3D on a computer, rather than 2D on a sheet of paper. However, the 3D design doesn't need to look complex, a simple one made of rectangular prisms and cylinders will be sufficient.\\nAdd up the weight of the parts (in grams) and be sure they total less than 150 grams.\\nIf you don't have CAD, download the free version of Sketchup.\\nTake some of the free tutorials on Sketchup to learn all the basics.\\nCreate all the components you are using on Sketchup using the size specs you wrote down.\\nDesign out your chassis and armor. Be sure to make it less than 4X4X4 inches.\\nFit all the components into the 3D chassis/armor model to see if they fit at the same time. This will also help you decide where the components will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Order Your Parts If all your components fit into your design flawlessly, order your parts.\", \"描述\": \"If not, consider new parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assemble It Now, you need to put together your chassis/armor.\", \"描述\": \"Put all your components in where you put them in your design. Plug everything in and test it out. You should try to assemble it in a way that you can easily take out components in case they need to be replaced. The components may need to be replaced more than a regular robot because this robot will be fighting. The attacking robots could damage yours. It's recommended to use Velcro to hold the components in.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Practice Driving No matter how good of a robot you have, if you fall off, you lose.\", \"描述\": \"Before even thinking about competing, you will need to practice driving. Use upside down cups for cones and drive through. Use Styrofoam cups for targets and attack them (try to do this on a small table so you can practice pushing them off and not falling off yourself). Even try to purchase a cheap RC car (on a different frequency as your robot), have another person drive it on a table, and try to knock them off or destroy the car, without falling off yourself. If you know another person with an Antweight robot, have friendly fights with him (if possible, replace spinning weapons with a less destructive plastic weapon).\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Compete Find a competition in your area and have fun destroying other robots!\", \"描述\": \"Remember that if you are going to compete in the US, you will need to look for Fairy Weight competitions, not Antweight..\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you want to make your robot punch, you ought to connect a servo to a spherical \\\"shoulder\\\", and have the arm set at a 90 degree angle, so it throws uppercuts.\\n\", \"Order extra parts for your robot. Since this is a combat robot, your parts may get damaged in battle. If you have extras on hand, you can replace parts quicker.\\n\", \"The rule says that the robot must be able to fit within a 4X4X4 inch cube, however it can expand afterward by remote control. You can make this beneficial. For example, If you flipper weapon extends out too far, try to design it so that the flipper can go straight up and is less than four inches tall, but when the flipper is put back down (after the cube is lifted), the length is greater than 4\\\".\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear safety glasses when cutting material or operating the robot.\\n\", \"Even combat robots this small can be dangerous. If using a spinning weapon, stand back when operating it and unplug it when working on it.\\n\", \"Some arenas are deemed unsafe for spinning weapons on robots. Do not try to use a spinning weapon in one of these arenas.\\n\", \"Even micro pneumatics are dangerous. If using pneumatics be sure to follow all safety guidelines.\\n\", \"LiPo Batteries are extremely dangerous. Do not charge them using a charger made for NiHM or Nicad batteries. LiPo batteries need a special charger.\\n\", \"LiPo Batteries can catch fire if pierced. When designing your robot, try to place the battery somewhere that it won't get pierced. If the battery does catch fire, the rules state that you can not touch the robot while it's on fire. There will be no attempt made to put it out, which means all your other components could get ruined. Protect this battery like it's the heart of the robot!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,643 |
How to Build an Aquarium Stand
|
1. Building the Aquarium Stand Frame
1-1. Determine the dimensions of your stand based on your aquarium’s size.
Your stand can comfortably be built up to 3 feet (0.91 m) high, while the length and width of the frame should be equal to the size of your aquarium with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) added to each side.
For example, if your aquarium measures 10 inches (25 cm) by 20 inches (51 cm), then the sides of your stand should be 10.5 inches (27 cm) and 20.5 inches (52 cm).
Remember that your aquarium will also be holding several gallons of water which will add on weight. Make sure your stand will be sturdy enough to support the filled tank.
1-2. Cut your pieces of wood to match the dimensions of your stand.
Use a circular saw to cut 2 2x4s to the desired length, 4 2x4s to the desired width, and 8 2x4s to the desired height.
For example, for an aquarium stand that you want to be 3 feet (0.91 m) tall, 3 feet (0.91 m) long, and 1.5 feet (0.46 m) wide, you’ll need to cut 2 2x4s to be 36.5 inches (93 cm), 4 2x4s to be 18.5 inches (47 cm), and 8 2x4s to be 36 inches (91 cm).
1-3. Attach the 4 smaller 2x4s to 1 side of a length-cut 2x4.
Place 2 of the smaller 2x4s along the top and bottom of the thin side of the longer 2x4 and place the 2 other smaller pieces in the middle. Then, use a power drill to attach the smaller 2x4s to the larger piece using 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws.
Make sure the 4 smaller 2x4s (which will serve as cross braces for the frame) are set at equal distances apart from each other.
You may also want to use wood adhesive to ensure that the 2x4s are securely attached to each other.
1-4. Lay the other length-cut 2x4 along the frame and attach it to the smaller pieces.
Use your power drill to attach this 2x4 to the part of the frame you’ve already built with 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws. Make sure all of the 2x4s are securely fastened to each other before proceeding.
1-5. Attach a height-cut 2x4 at every corner and cross brace location on your frame.
You should install all 8 of your height-cut 2x4s, using a power drill and construction screws to drill the 2x4s together. You can also use finishing nails or wood glue to help secure these 2x4s to the frame.
Install these vertical posts so that their long sides run parallel to the cross braces on your frame.
1-6. Cut and install a piece of plywood to the bottom of the frame.
Trace the exact shape and measurement of your frame onto a large piece of plywood and use a jigsaw to cut out this shape. Then, use wood glue to fasten this bottom piece to the tops of your vertical posts. Once this glue has dried, flip the frame over so that the plywood is on the bottom.
You may also opt to use finishing nails to complete the installation.
Allow the wood glue to dry for at least 2 hours before moving forward. If you have the extra time, though, you may want to wait 24 hours just to make sure it’s completely bonded.
2. Covering the Frame with Sheeting
2-1. Cut 4 pieces of wood sheeting to match each side of your stand.
Measure the front and both sides of your aquarium stand, then use a pencil to trace 3 rectangles matching these measurements onto a piece of wood sheeting. Then, cut out these shapes with your jigsaw. Make sure to cut spaces in the front piece of wood sheeting for any doors you plan to install in your stand.
You don’t need to attach sheeting to the back of the stand unless it will be visible or you plan to store a lot of items in the stand that might fall out of the exposed back.
2-2. Attach each piece of sheeting securely to the sides of the stand.
Use wood glue to glue each piece of wood sheeting to its corresponding side. Then, use a hammer and finishing nails to make sure each piece is securely fastened to the frame.
If the visible nail heads are unsightly, you can shove them deeper into the wood with a countersink punch, then fill the holes with wood putty.
2-3. Add trim to the sides of the frame if you want to make it look nicer.
This isn’t strictly necessary for your stand to be functional, but it will certainly make it appear less rough. Measure and cut your trim pieces with a jigsaw to fit around each corner of the aquarium stand. Then, attach to them to each corner using wood glue.
3. Staining and Completing the Aquarium Stand
3-1. Sand
This is very important not only for making your finished stand smoother and less jagged in appearance, but will also make the finish look nicer. Use a fine grit sandpaper (around 220) to get the best result.
Avoid using a coarse or medium grit sandpaper to sand your stand, as these may actually do some damage to your wood.
3-2. Paint
Use a stain that is designed to be used with whatever type of wood you used to build your frame. Apply at least 2 coats of stain with a stain brush and allow it to dry completely. Then, use a paintbrush to paint your stand in your desired color.
You should apply at least 1 coat of paint to your stand (if you intend to paint it), but there’s no harm in applying 2 coats overall.
3-3. Attach doors to the front of your stand, if desired.
Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions when attaching the doors to the stand. Unless otherwise instructed, attach the hinges to the front of the stand first, then attach your doors to these hinges. Make sure your doors have been stained and painted before attaching them.
Store-bought doors have probably already been stained and painted, so you only have to worry about this if you’re making the doors yourself.
Tips
While making an aquarium stand, keep in mind that you must build it to suit your specific tank. This design can be modified accordingly by adjusting the length and width to your needs.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Aquarium Stand Frame\\n1-1. Determine the dimensions of your stand based on your aquarium’s size.\\nYour stand can comfortably be built up to 3 feet (0.91 m) high, while the length and width of the frame should be equal to the size of your aquarium with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) added to each side.\\nFor example, if your aquarium measures 10 inches (25 cm) by 20 inches (51 cm), then the sides of your stand should be 10.5 inches (27 cm) and 20.5 inches (52 cm).\\nRemember that your aquarium will also be holding several gallons of water which will add on weight. Make sure your stand will be sturdy enough to support the filled tank.\\n1-2. Cut your pieces of wood to match the dimensions of your stand.\\nUse a circular saw to cut 2 2x4s to the desired length, 4 2x4s to the desired width, and 8 2x4s to the desired height.\\nFor example, for an aquarium stand that you want to be 3 feet (0.91 m) tall, 3 feet (0.91 m) long, and 1.5 feet (0.46 m) wide, you’ll need to cut 2 2x4s to be 36.5 inches (93 cm), 4 2x4s to be 18.5 inches (47 cm), and 8 2x4s to be 36 inches (91 cm).\\n1-3. Attach the 4 smaller 2x4s to 1 side of a length-cut 2x4.\\nPlace 2 of the smaller 2x4s along the top and bottom of the thin side of the longer 2x4 and place the 2 other smaller pieces in the middle. Then, use a power drill to attach the smaller 2x4s to the larger piece using 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws.\\nMake sure the 4 smaller 2x4s (which will serve as cross braces for the frame) are set at equal distances apart from each other.\\nYou may also want to use wood adhesive to ensure that the 2x4s are securely attached to each other.\\n1-4. Lay the other length-cut 2x4 along the frame and attach it to the smaller pieces.\\nUse your power drill to attach this 2x4 to the part of the frame you’ve already built with 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws. Make sure all of the 2x4s are securely fastened to each other before proceeding.\\n1-5. Attach a height-cut 2x4 at every corner and cross brace location on your frame.\\nYou should install all 8 of your height-cut 2x4s, using a power drill and construction screws to drill the 2x4s together. You can also use finishing nails or wood glue to help secure these 2x4s to the frame.\\nInstall these vertical posts so that their long sides run parallel to the cross braces on your frame.\\n1-6. Cut and install a piece of plywood to the bottom of the frame.\\nTrace the exact shape and measurement of your frame onto a large piece of plywood and use a jigsaw to cut out this shape. Then, use wood glue to fasten this bottom piece to the tops of your vertical posts. Once this glue has dried, flip the frame over so that the plywood is on the bottom.\\nYou may also opt to use finishing nails to complete the installation.\\nAllow the wood glue to dry for at least 2 hours before moving forward. If you have the extra time, though, you may want to wait 24 hours just to make sure it’s completely bonded.\\n2. Covering the Frame with Sheeting\\n2-1. Cut 4 pieces of wood sheeting to match each side of your stand.\\nMeasure the front and both sides of your aquarium stand, then use a pencil to trace 3 rectangles matching these measurements onto a piece of wood sheeting. Then, cut out these shapes with your jigsaw. Make sure to cut spaces in the front piece of wood sheeting for any doors you plan to install in your stand.\\nYou don’t need to attach sheeting to the back of the stand unless it will be visible or you plan to store a lot of items in the stand that might fall out of the exposed back.\\n2-2. Attach each piece of sheeting securely to the sides of the stand.\\nUse wood glue to glue each piece of wood sheeting to its corresponding side. Then, use a hammer and finishing nails to make sure each piece is securely fastened to the frame.\\nIf the visible nail heads are unsightly, you can shove them deeper into the wood with a countersink punch, then fill the holes with wood putty.\\n2-3. Add trim to the sides of the frame if you want to make it look nicer.\\nThis isn’t strictly necessary for your stand to be functional, but it will certainly make it appear less rough. Measure and cut your trim pieces with a jigsaw to fit around each corner of the aquarium stand. Then, attach to them to each corner using wood glue.\\n3. Staining and Completing the Aquarium Stand\\n3-1. Sand\\nThis is very important not only for making your finished stand smoother and less jagged in appearance, but will also make the finish look nicer. Use a fine grit sandpaper (around 220) to get the best result.\\nAvoid using a coarse or medium grit sandpaper to sand your stand, as these may actually do some damage to your wood.\\n3-2. Paint\\nUse a stain that is designed to be used with whatever type of wood you used to build your frame. Apply at least 2 coats of stain with a stain brush and allow it to dry completely. Then, use a paintbrush to paint your stand in your desired color.\\nYou should apply at least 1 coat of paint to your stand (if you intend to paint it), but there’s no harm in applying 2 coats overall.\\n3-3. Attach doors to the front of your stand, if desired.\\nFollow the manufacturer’s installation instructions when attaching the doors to the stand. Unless otherwise instructed, attach the hinges to the front of the stand first, then attach your doors to these hinges. Make sure your doors have been stained and painted before attaching them.\\nStore-bought doors have probably already been stained and painted, so you only have to worry about this if you’re making the doors yourself.\\nTips\\nWhile making an aquarium stand, keep in mind that you must build it to suit your specific tank. This design can be modified accordingly by adjusting the length and width to your needs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Having an aquarium stand can really raise your fish tank to a whole new level, in terms of both height and aesthetic. Pre-made stands bought from the store can be very expensive. Luckily, if you want to try to save a little money, you can actually make your own aquarium stand at home. All you need are some 2x4s, a drill, screws, wood glue, wood sheeting, and the willingness to put a little work into it! Then, you’ll have a homemade aquarium stand at a fraction of the cost of one from the store.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Aquarium Stand Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the dimensions of your stand based on your aquarium’s size.\", \"描述\": \"Your stand can comfortably be built up to 3 feet (0.91 m) high, while the length and width of the frame should be equal to the size of your aquarium with ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) added to each side.\\nFor example, if your aquarium measures 10 inches (25 cm) by 20 inches (51 cm), then the sides of your stand should be 10.5 inches (27 cm) and 20.5 inches (52 cm).\\nRemember that your aquarium will also be holding several gallons of water which will add on weight. Make sure your stand will be sturdy enough to support the filled tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your pieces of wood to match the dimensions of your stand.\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw to cut 2 2x4s to the desired length, 4 2x4s to the desired width, and 8 2x4s to the desired height.\\nFor example, for an aquarium stand that you want to be 3 feet (0.91 m) tall, 3 feet (0.91 m) long, and 1.5 feet (0.46 m) wide, you’ll need to cut 2 2x4s to be 36.5 inches (93 cm), 4 2x4s to be 18.5 inches (47 cm), and 8 2x4s to be 36 inches (91 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the 4 smaller 2x4s to 1 side of a length-cut 2x4.\", \"描述\": \"Place 2 of the smaller 2x4s along the top and bottom of the thin side of the longer 2x4 and place the 2 other smaller pieces in the middle. Then, use a power drill to attach the smaller 2x4s to the larger piece using 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws.\\nMake sure the 4 smaller 2x4s (which will serve as cross braces for the frame) are set at equal distances apart from each other.\\nYou may also want to use wood adhesive to ensure that the 2x4s are securely attached to each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the other length-cut 2x4 along the frame and attach it to the smaller pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Use your power drill to attach this 2x4 to the part of the frame you’ve already built with 2.5 in (6.4 cm) construction screws. Make sure all of the 2x4s are securely fastened to each other before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a height-cut 2x4 at every corner and cross brace location on your frame.\", \"描述\": \"You should install all 8 of your height-cut 2x4s, using a power drill and construction screws to drill the 2x4s together. You can also use finishing nails or wood glue to help secure these 2x4s to the frame.\\nInstall these vertical posts so that their long sides run parallel to the cross braces on your frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut and install a piece of plywood to the bottom of the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Trace the exact shape and measurement of your frame onto a large piece of plywood and use a jigsaw to cut out this shape. Then, use wood glue to fasten this bottom piece to the tops of your vertical posts. Once this glue has dried, flip the frame over so that the plywood is on the bottom.\\nYou may also opt to use finishing nails to complete the installation.\\nAllow the wood glue to dry for at least 2 hours before moving forward. If you have the extra time, though, you may want to wait 24 hours just to make sure it’s completely bonded.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Covering the Frame with Sheeting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 pieces of wood sheeting to match each side of your stand.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the front and both sides of your aquarium stand, then use a pencil to trace 3 rectangles matching these measurements onto a piece of wood sheeting. Then, cut out these shapes with your jigsaw. Make sure to cut spaces in the front piece of wood sheeting for any doors you plan to install in your stand.\\nYou don’t need to attach sheeting to the back of the stand unless it will be visible or you plan to store a lot of items in the stand that might fall out of the exposed back.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach each piece of sheeting securely to the sides of the stand.\", \"描述\": \"Use wood glue to glue each piece of wood sheeting to its corresponding side. Then, use a hammer and finishing nails to make sure each piece is securely fastened to the frame.\\nIf the visible nail heads are unsightly, you can shove them deeper into the wood with a countersink punch, then fill the holes with wood putty.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add trim to the sides of the frame if you want to make it look nicer.\", \"描述\": \"This isn’t strictly necessary for your stand to be functional, but it will certainly make it appear less rough. Measure and cut your trim pieces with a jigsaw to fit around each corner of the aquarium stand. Then, attach to them to each corner using wood glue.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staining and Completing the Aquarium Stand\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand\", \"描述\": \"This is very important not only for making your finished stand smoother and less jagged in appearance, but will also make the finish look nicer. Use a fine grit sandpaper (around 220) to get the best result.\\nAvoid using a coarse or medium grit sandpaper to sand your stand, as these may actually do some damage to your wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint\", \"描述\": \"Use a stain that is designed to be used with whatever type of wood you used to build your frame. Apply at least 2 coats of stain with a stain brush and allow it to dry completely. Then, use a paintbrush to paint your stand in your desired color.\\nYou should apply at least 1 coat of paint to your stand (if you intend to paint it), but there’s no harm in applying 2 coats overall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach doors to the front of your stand, if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions when attaching the doors to the stand. Unless otherwise instructed, attach the hinges to the front of the stand first, then attach your doors to these hinges. Make sure your doors have been stained and painted before attaching them.\\nStore-bought doors have probably already been stained and painted, so you only have to worry about this if you’re making the doors yourself.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"While making an aquarium stand, keep in mind that you must build it to suit your specific tank. This design can be modified accordingly by adjusting the length and width to your needs.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,644 |
How to Build an Arbor
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1. Gathering Your Materials
1-1. Purchase the necessary wood materials.
Head to your local home hardware store. You can either purchase your wood in pieces and cut them to size yourself or ask the hardware store staff to do so for you. For a project like this, the latter is the much easier option. You need the following:
Six 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) thick plywood
Three pairs of 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams
Four 8 by 8 foot (2.4 m × 2.4 m) posts 10 feet (3.0 m) long
Seven 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long
Nine 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips 10.5 feet (3.2 m) long
1-2. Choose rot-resistant wood to prevent decay.
Redwood and cedar are great choices that require minimal maintenance. If this is your first time, redwood is the lightest and easiest to work with. It also weathers very well. Other cheaper options include pressure-treated fir or pine.
Always check for warped pieces whenever you purchase wood.
If you plan to paint your arbor, redwood is best.
1-3. Buy the remaining cement, pipes, screws, and tools.
After you get your wood, purchase 12 bags of cement mix—roughly 2 for each hole. Afterward, you need six 42 in (110 cm) long galvanized pipes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, a box of 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, an electric drill, a circular saw, and measuring tape.
Skip the circular saw if you had a professional cut your wood for you.
Purchase cement mix designed for fences and posts.
1-4. Cut your wood pieces to size if they aren't already.
If you didn't get your wood cut to size by a professional, use a circular saw to do so yourself. Mark off the ends to be cut with a ruler and pencil and align your blade above it. Now, clutch the rear handle trigger on the saw and pull the saw down across the wood with your dominant hand. Always hold it firmly in place with your non-dominant hand.
Be sure to apply downward pressure with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood still.
Always let the shortest end of the piece of lumber hang when cutting lumber to preventing jamming.
2. Installing the Foundation
2-1. Dig 6 holes 18 inches (46 cm) wide and 24 inches (61 cm) deep.
Start by thrusting a shovel into the soil and moving it side to side and forward and backward. After the soil is loosened, grip the middle of the handle with your non-dominant hand and the top with your dominant hand and start digging. Repeat this process to create 6 holes, each spaced 11.68 feet (3.56 m) apart vertically (along the length of the beams) and 4.77 feet (1.45 m) apart horizontally (along the length of the rafters).
Saw through any large roots with a reciprocating saw or thrust the shovel down into them until they break.
Knock any rocks loose with a steel bar.
Use a clamshell digger to remove large portions of loose soil.
2-2. Fill each of the holes
Combine the cement mix and water in a wheelbarrow according to the manufacturer's directions. Now, tilt the wheelbarrow forward gently to pour the cement into each hole. Afterward, slide a hand float over the surface of the cement until it's level with the ground.
2-3. Insert galvanized metal pipes into the center of each cement hole.
Take your 42 inch (110 cm) long galvanized pipes and position them in the center of the holes with 18 inches (46 cm) sticking out from the top. Let the concrete sit for at least 24 hours before moving to the next step.
Be sure that the pipe has a diameter of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm).
2-4. Drill 18 inch (46 cm) deep center holes into the bottom of each post.
Attach a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) spade bit or auger bit to an electric drill. Now, drill a center hole into the bottom of each post to fit over the galvanized metal pipes.
After drilling your holes all 18 inches (46 cm) of the galvanized piping should fit into each one. The remaining 24 inches (61 cm) should be covered by cement.
2-5. Lower the posts over the galvanizing pipes.
Align each post vertically beside the pipes so that the flat ends face the sky and the hole faces the ground. Now, lift each one up and align their holes over the piping. Once the holes are aligned, slowly lower them onto the piping. Make sure that each post is perfectly vertical and makes a 90-degree angle to the ground.
Place a cedar shingle shim underneath any posts that are not completely vertical.
3. Connecting Your Beams and Rafters
3-1. Connect 3 pairs of double 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams.
Lay each pair of beams parallel and 7.5 inches (19 cm) apart from each other. Now, attach two 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of pressure-treated plywood to your beams—one on each end 2.91 feet (0.89 m) from the edges of the beams. Fasten them to the bottom edge of the beams using 6 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, taking care to space them out evenly.
The plywood both connects the beams and acts as the barrier between your beams and the posts.
Drive the screws straight down into the beams at a 90-degree angle to the plywood.
Make sure to connect each piece of plywood to each beam with 3 screws.
3-2. Attach each pair of beams horizontally to 2 posts.
The beams are the pieces of wood that connect each post horizontally at the top and lay the foundation for the rest of the arbor. Raise each pair up and place them onto the posts, making sure that the plywood plates align with the top of them. Afterward, drive 4 more galvanized decking screws down through the plywood plates and into the posts.
Have a friend help you do this or use an 8 foot (2.4 m) tall ladder.
3-3. Connect 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long rafters across your beams.
The 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters lay on top of the beams horizontally. Start by laying down the rafters on top of the beams. Space them about 20 inches (51 cm) apart, making sure that they all run perpendicular to the beams and parallel to each other. Now, drive 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws at a 45-degree angle through the rafters and into the beams.
Alternate between driving screws through each side of the rafter.
3-4. Connect nine 10.5 foot (3.2 m) long lattice strips to the rafters.
The 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips are the final structural part of the arbor. Lay all 9 strips vertically across the horizontal rafters, making sure they are 21.5 inches (55 cm) apart. Now, drive 2.5 inch (6.4 cm) decking screws down through the lattice strips and into the rafters.
Take care to drive the screws down at a 90-degree angle to the rafters.
Make sure each lattice strip hangs over the first rafter by about 2 inches (5.1 cm).
Take care to ensure that each lattice strip is parallel to one another and perpendicular to the rafters.
Tips
Ask a friend to help you with this project to make things much easier and safer!
Warnings
Excercise extreme caution when working from heights.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering Your Materials\\n1-1. Purchase the necessary wood materials.\\nHead to your local home hardware store. You can either purchase your wood in pieces and cut them to size yourself or ask the hardware store staff to do so for you. For a project like this, the latter is the much easier option. You need the following:\\nSix 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) thick plywood\\nThree pairs of 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams\\nFour 8 by 8 foot (2.4 m × 2.4 m) posts 10 feet (3.0 m) long\\nSeven 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long\\nNine 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips 10.5 feet (3.2 m) long\\n1-2. Choose rot-resistant wood to prevent decay.\\nRedwood and cedar are great choices that require minimal maintenance. If this is your first time, redwood is the lightest and easiest to work with. It also weathers very well. Other cheaper options include pressure-treated fir or pine.\\nAlways check for warped pieces whenever you purchase wood.\\nIf you plan to paint your arbor, redwood is best.\\n1-3. Buy the remaining cement, pipes, screws, and tools.\\nAfter you get your wood, purchase 12 bags of cement mix—roughly 2 for each hole. Afterward, you need six 42 in (110 cm) long galvanized pipes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, a box of 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, an electric drill, a circular saw, and measuring tape.\\nSkip the circular saw if you had a professional cut your wood for you.\\nPurchase cement mix designed for fences and posts.\\n1-4. Cut your wood pieces to size if they aren't already.\\nIf you didn't get your wood cut to size by a professional, use a circular saw to do so yourself. Mark off the ends to be cut with a ruler and pencil and align your blade above it. Now, clutch the rear handle trigger on the saw and pull the saw down across the wood with your dominant hand. Always hold it firmly in place with your non-dominant hand.\\nBe sure to apply downward pressure with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood still.\\nAlways let the shortest end of the piece of lumber hang when cutting lumber to preventing jamming.\\n2. Installing the Foundation\\n2-1. Dig 6 holes 18 inches (46 cm) wide and 24 inches (61 cm) deep.\\nStart by thrusting a shovel into the soil and moving it side to side and forward and backward. After the soil is loosened, grip the middle of the handle with your non-dominant hand and the top with your dominant hand and start digging. Repeat this process to create 6 holes, each spaced 11.68 feet (3.56 m) apart vertically (along the length of the beams) and 4.77 feet (1.45 m) apart horizontally (along the length of the rafters).\\nSaw through any large roots with a reciprocating saw or thrust the shovel down into them until they break.\\nKnock any rocks loose with a steel bar.\\nUse a clamshell digger to remove large portions of loose soil.\\n2-2. Fill each of the holes\\nCombine the cement mix and water in a wheelbarrow according to the manufacturer's directions. Now, tilt the wheelbarrow forward gently to pour the cement into each hole. Afterward, slide a hand float over the surface of the cement until it's level with the ground.\\n2-3. Insert galvanized metal pipes into the center of each cement hole.\\nTake your 42 inch (110 cm) long galvanized pipes and position them in the center of the holes with 18 inches (46 cm) sticking out from the top. Let the concrete sit for at least 24 hours before moving to the next step.\\nBe sure that the pipe has a diameter of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm).\\n2-4. Drill 18 inch (46 cm) deep center holes into the bottom of each post.\\nAttach a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) spade bit or auger bit to an electric drill. Now, drill a center hole into the bottom of each post to fit over the galvanized metal pipes.\\nAfter drilling your holes all 18 inches (46 cm) of the galvanized piping should fit into each one. The remaining 24 inches (61 cm) should be covered by cement.\\n2-5. Lower the posts over the galvanizing pipes.\\nAlign each post vertically beside the pipes so that the flat ends face the sky and the hole faces the ground. Now, lift each one up and align their holes over the piping. Once the holes are aligned, slowly lower them onto the piping. Make sure that each post is perfectly vertical and makes a 90-degree angle to the ground.\\nPlace a cedar shingle shim underneath any posts that are not completely vertical.\\n3. Connecting Your Beams and Rafters\\n3-1. Connect 3 pairs of double 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams.\\nLay each pair of beams parallel and 7.5 inches (19 cm) apart from each other. Now, attach two 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of pressure-treated plywood to your beams—one on each end 2.91 feet (0.89 m) from the edges of the beams. Fasten them to the bottom edge of the beams using 6 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, taking care to space them out evenly.\\nThe plywood both connects the beams and acts as the barrier between your beams and the posts.\\nDrive the screws straight down into the beams at a 90-degree angle to the plywood.\\nMake sure to connect each piece of plywood to each beam with 3 screws.\\n3-2. Attach each pair of beams horizontally to 2 posts.\\nThe beams are the pieces of wood that connect each post horizontally at the top and lay the foundation for the rest of the arbor. Raise each pair up and place them onto the posts, making sure that the plywood plates align with the top of them. Afterward, drive 4 more galvanized decking screws down through the plywood plates and into the posts.\\nHave a friend help you do this or use an 8 foot (2.4 m) tall ladder.\\n3-3. Connect 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long rafters across your beams.\\nThe 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters lay on top of the beams horizontally. Start by laying down the rafters on top of the beams. Space them about 20 inches (51 cm) apart, making sure that they all run perpendicular to the beams and parallel to each other. Now, drive 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws at a 45-degree angle through the rafters and into the beams.\\nAlternate between driving screws through each side of the rafter.\\n3-4. Connect nine 10.5 foot (3.2 m) long lattice strips to the rafters.\\nThe 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips are the final structural part of the arbor. Lay all 9 strips vertically across the horizontal rafters, making sure they are 21.5 inches (55 cm) apart. Now, drive 2.5 inch (6.4 cm) decking screws down through the lattice strips and into the rafters.\\nTake care to drive the screws down at a 90-degree angle to the rafters.\\nMake sure each lattice strip hangs over the first rafter by about 2 inches (5.1 cm).\\nTake care to ensure that each lattice strip is parallel to one another and perpendicular to the rafters.\\nTips\\nAsk a friend to help you with this project to make things much easier and safer!\\nWarnings\\nExcercise extreme caution when working from heights.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building an arbor is a great way to frame a walkway, make a path look nicer, or provide some shade for backyard lounging. It might seem like an intimidating project, but it's a fairly simple process that just requires a bit of determination. Just grabs your tools, your wood, and set aside a few weekends so you're not cramming together all the work at once!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering Your Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase the necessary wood materials.\", \"描述\": \"Head to your local home hardware store. You can either purchase your wood in pieces and cut them to size yourself or ask the hardware store staff to do so for you. For a project like this, the latter is the much easier option. You need the following:\\nSix 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) thick plywood\\nThree pairs of 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams\\nFour 8 by 8 foot (2.4 m × 2.4 m) posts 10 feet (3.0 m) long\\nSeven 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long\\nNine 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips 10.5 feet (3.2 m) long\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose rot-resistant wood to prevent decay.\", \"描述\": \"Redwood and cedar are great choices that require minimal maintenance. If this is your first time, redwood is the lightest and easiest to work with. It also weathers very well. Other cheaper options include pressure-treated fir or pine.\\nAlways check for warped pieces whenever you purchase wood.\\nIf you plan to paint your arbor, redwood is best.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy the remaining cement, pipes, screws, and tools.\", \"描述\": \"After you get your wood, purchase 12 bags of cement mix—roughly 2 for each hole. Afterward, you need six 42 in (110 cm) long galvanized pipes ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter, a box of 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, an electric drill, a circular saw, and measuring tape.\\nSkip the circular saw if you had a professional cut your wood for you.\\nPurchase cement mix designed for fences and posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood pieces to size if they aren't already.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn't get your wood cut to size by a professional, use a circular saw to do so yourself. Mark off the ends to be cut with a ruler and pencil and align your blade above it. Now, clutch the rear handle trigger on the saw and pull the saw down across the wood with your dominant hand. Always hold it firmly in place with your non-dominant hand.\\nBe sure to apply downward pressure with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood still.\\nAlways let the shortest end of the piece of lumber hang when cutting lumber to preventing jamming.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing the Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig 6 holes 18 inches (46 cm) wide and 24 inches (61 cm) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Start by thrusting a shovel into the soil and moving it side to side and forward and backward. After the soil is loosened, grip the middle of the handle with your non-dominant hand and the top with your dominant hand and start digging. Repeat this process to create 6 holes, each spaced 11.68 feet (3.56 m) apart vertically (along the length of the beams) and 4.77 feet (1.45 m) apart horizontally (along the length of the rafters).\\nSaw through any large roots with a reciprocating saw or thrust the shovel down into them until they break.\\nKnock any rocks loose with a steel bar.\\nUse a clamshell digger to remove large portions of loose soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill each of the holes\", \"描述\": \"Combine the cement mix and water in a wheelbarrow according to the manufacturer's directions. Now, tilt the wheelbarrow forward gently to pour the cement into each hole. Afterward, slide a hand float over the surface of the cement until it's level with the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert galvanized metal pipes into the center of each cement hole.\", \"描述\": \"Take your 42 inch (110 cm) long galvanized pipes and position them in the center of the holes with 18 inches (46 cm) sticking out from the top. Let the concrete sit for at least 24 hours before moving to the next step.\\nBe sure that the pipe has a diameter of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill 18 inch (46 cm) deep center holes into the bottom of each post.\", \"描述\": \"Attach a 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) spade bit or auger bit to an electric drill. Now, drill a center hole into the bottom of each post to fit over the galvanized metal pipes.\\nAfter drilling your holes all 18 inches (46 cm) of the galvanized piping should fit into each one. The remaining 24 inches (61 cm) should be covered by cement.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lower the posts over the galvanizing pipes.\", \"描述\": \"Align each post vertically beside the pipes so that the flat ends face the sky and the hole faces the ground. Now, lift each one up and align their holes over the piping. Once the holes are aligned, slowly lower them onto the piping. Make sure that each post is perfectly vertical and makes a 90-degree angle to the ground.\\nPlace a cedar shingle shim underneath any posts that are not completely vertical.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connecting Your Beams and Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect 3 pairs of double 2 by 2 by 8 inch (5.1 by 5.1 by 20.3 cm) beams.\", \"描述\": \"Lay each pair of beams parallel and 7.5 inches (19 cm) apart from each other. Now, attach two 7.5 by 7.5 inch (19 cm × 19 cm) pieces of pressure-treated plywood to your beams—one on each end 2.91 feet (0.89 m) from the edges of the beams. Fasten them to the bottom edge of the beams using 6 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws, taking care to space them out evenly.\\nThe plywood both connects the beams and acts as the barrier between your beams and the posts.\\nDrive the screws straight down into the beams at a 90-degree angle to the plywood.\\nMake sure to connect each piece of plywood to each beam with 3 screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach each pair of beams horizontally to 2 posts.\", \"描述\": \"The beams are the pieces of wood that connect each post horizontally at the top and lay the foundation for the rest of the arbor. Raise each pair up and place them onto the posts, making sure that the plywood plates align with the top of them. Afterward, drive 4 more galvanized decking screws down through the plywood plates and into the posts.\\nHave a friend help you do this or use an 8 foot (2.4 m) tall ladder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect 17.5 foot (5.3 m) long rafters across your beams.\", \"描述\": \"The 2 by 6 inch (5.1 by 15.2 cm) rafters lay on top of the beams horizontally. Start by laying down the rafters on top of the beams. Space them about 20 inches (51 cm) apart, making sure that they all run perpendicular to the beams and parallel to each other. Now, drive 3.5 inch (8.9 cm) galvanized decking screws at a 45-degree angle through the rafters and into the beams.\\nAlternate between driving screws through each side of the rafter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect nine 10.5 foot (3.2 m) long lattice strips to the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"The 1 by 2 inch (2.5 by 5.1 cm) lattice strips are the final structural part of the arbor. Lay all 9 strips vertically across the horizontal rafters, making sure they are 21.5 inches (55 cm) apart. Now, drive 2.5 inch (6.4 cm) decking screws down through the lattice strips and into the rafters.\\nTake care to drive the screws down at a 90-degree angle to the rafters.\\nMake sure each lattice strip hangs over the first rafter by about 2 inches (5.1 cm).\\nTake care to ensure that each lattice strip is parallel to one another and perpendicular to the rafters.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Ask a friend to help you with this project to make things much easier and safer!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Excercise extreme caution when working from heights.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,645 |
How to Build an Arcade Cabinet
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1. Exploring Cabinet Options and Alternatives
1-1. Buy and assemble a pre-cut arcade cabinet kit.
You can find these online starting at around $500 USD. The kit should arrive with detailed assembly instructions and all the pre-cut pieces you need, usually made of MDF (an engineered wood fiberboard). Essentially, this will be like assembling any other type of boxed furniture—you’ll need lots of patience and the ability to drive in many screws.
Most kits only provide the wooden shell for the cabinet, meaning you’ll still need to acquire a monitor, control panel, gaming system, etc., and install them.
1-2. Download plans with templates and cut the wood yourself.
Look online for detailed plans, which should include templates for the various pieces of wood needed to create the cabinet. Follow the plans to measure, mark, and cut the wood (usually a combination of dimensional lumber and MDF) to match the templates, then to assemble the cabinet with a drill and screws.
At minimum, you’ll need a pair of sawhorses and a jigsaw to cut the pieces of wood properly. Make sure you wear eye protection and take other safety measures whenever you cut wood.
You may be able to find plans online for free, but you’ll still need to invest in building materials and all the gaming mechanisms (monitor, control panel, etc.).
1-3. Create your own design and build from scratch.
If you want complete control over the look of your arcade cabinet, first take some time to check out existing design plans online. Then, create your own design on paper and use accurate measurements to transfer your templates to sheets of MDF and pieces of dimensional lumber. After a lot of cutting, drilling, screwing, sanding, painting, and installing, you’ll have an arcade cabinet that’s uniquely yours!
This type of DIY project might take a few days if you’re able to dedicate yourself fully to it, but is more likely to take several weeks or even a couple months if you’re only able to tackle it during your spare time.
1-4. Transform a standard desk into an “arcade cabinet” facsimile.
Basically, if you have a wood desk with a large drawer under the desktop, you can “hack” a simple form of arcade cabinet. This involves drilling holes in the desktop for installing the buttons and joysticks (or cutting a larger opening for dropping in a 2-person gaming controller), mounting the screen to the back of the desktop, and installing the gaming system and wiring everything together inside the drawer.
You can find several versions of this hack online that utilize a relatively small and inexpensive desk from Ikea. Some versions even utilize an extra drawer that is installed upright on the back of the desktop to help enclose the monitor.
2. Repurposing an Old Arcade Cabinet
2-1. Locate and buy a broken-down arcade cabinet.
Search on Craigslist or similar websites for people selling old arcade cabinets. Due to the decline in the number of video arcades over the past 20 years or so, it probably won't be difficult to find cabinets for sale in your area.
You may be able to find a non-functional cabinet in the $100-$150 USD range.
The cabinet doesn’t need to look pretty at this point, but find one that’s still structurally sound if possible.
2-2. Pull out the interior components.
If your arcade cabinet hasn’t already been “gutted,” remove the back panel and take out the electronics. If you have some wiring skills and would like to keep some of the original components—the speakers, the lights for the coin slots, etc.—feel free to do so.
If it still works, you may want to keep and reuse the cabinet’s existing CRT monitor. However, in most cases, it’s easier to replace it with either an old CRT TV or monitor or a modern flat-screen version. The flat-screen won’t have quite the same retro feel, but it makes the whole cabinet much lighter.
2-3. Repaint the cabinet exterior.
Apply wood filler to any small holes or cracks, then thoroughly sand all the wood parts of the exterior with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Wipe the cabinet down with a tack cloth to remove any dust, then use painter’s tape to cover any areas you don’t want to paint. Follow this up by applying 1 coat of primer with a brush and/or roller, then finish with 2 coats of paint.
For the best adhesion and durability on a wooden cabinet, choose interior latex primer and paint with a semi-gloss finish.
Follow the drying times between coats listed on your chosen primer and paint.
You can order vinyl decal stickers to add to your cabinet after the paint dries, or try your hand at painting your own artwork on it!
2-4. Mount a remote-controlled power strip inside the cabinet.
Attach the power strip to an interior wall of the cabinet with screws or mounting tape, then drill a hole or cut a notch into the cabinet so you can feed the cord out. This way, you’ll only need one outlet to plug into in order to power all the new components inside your cabinet.
By using a remote-controlled power strip, you’ll be able to turn on all the new components—gaming system, monitor, etc.—with the push of a single button.
Remote-controlled power strips usually have a remote (with on/off buttons) that fits into a mountable cradle. You can mount this onto the side, top, or back of your finished cabinet.
2-5. Mount the new flat-screen monitor.
Cut a rectangular piece of plywood that fits over the opening left behind by the old CRT monitor. Connect one side of a TV mounting bracket to the back of your flat-screen TV or monitor with the included bolts, and the other side to the plywood with wood screws. Lay the mounted TV in place and secure the plywood into the cabinet frame with wood screws.
Depending on the size of the previous CRT monitor, either a 24 in (61 cm) or 27 in (69 cm) LCD monitor with a 16:9 ratio will likely fit best.
Before mounting the TV, consider painting the plywood black to make it less noticeable.
Many old arcade cabinets had a plexiglass (or actual glass) panel that covered the monitor. You can reuse the existing panel (depending on its condition), cut a new sheet of plexiglass to fit, or omit the panel altogether.
2-6. Replace the control panel.
Depending on your skill level and the condition of the existing control panel, you may be able to salvage and rewire the current buttons, joystick, etc. However, it’s probably easier to start fresh. You can pull out the old control panel components, buy a 2-person retro-style gaming controller online, feed its USB cord into the cabinet, and attach the controller (with mounting tape or adhesive) to the steel panel that housed the former controls.
Alternatively—and only if you know a decent amount about wiring—you can buy the new gaming controller, take it apart, and install its buttons and joysticks into the vacated openings in the steel control panel. You may, however, have to take the steel panel to a metal shop to have additional holes drilled or the existing ones adjusted.
2-7. Install speakers and lighting into the top section of the cabinet.
Above the monitor, you’ll find the section of the cabinet with the marquee that identifies the game. This is also where the speakers usually are. The easiest audio option is to lay a set of computer speakers face-down over the existing speaker holes in the cabinet, then secure them in place with mounting tape or screwed-in brackets.
If you’d like the marquee to light up when you play, mount an 18 in (46 cm) fluorescent light fixture inside it and plug it into the power strip.
If you also want the coin slots in the lower cabinet to light up, you might try to wire a couple small LED lights in place (depending on your wiring skills). Or, you can install another fluorescent light bar on the inside of the lower cabinet near the coin slots and let it illuminate them.
2-8. Install your gaming system(s).
Arcade cabinets provide plenty of interior space for one or more gaming systems. Depending on your preferences, you might install a PC, a home gaming system, or a small, single-board computer (such as the Raspberry Pi series). Follow the instructions for each for hooking them up to the monitor and joystick controls. Then, plug into the power strip and get ready to play!
If you need help setting up your preferred gaming system, follow the included instructions or look online for tutorials.
All told, plan to spend around $500-$1000 USD on this arcade cabinet, depending on the amount of hardware (monitor, gaming system, etc.) you already own.
3. Building a Tabletop Cabinet from Plywood
3-1. Complete your cut list out of 0.75 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood.
Use a table saw to make the cuts, and make sure to wear eye protection and follow all other saw safety precautions. You’ll fine-tune and assemble the following pieces into the tabletop arcade cabinet:
Part A: 2 side pieces, each 18 in × 25 in (46 cm × 64 cm)
B: marquee top, 6.75 in × 22 in (17.1 cm × 55.9 cm)
C: monitor panel, 18 in × 22 in (46 cm × 56 cm)
D: control panel top, 7.875 in × 22 in (20.00 cm × 55.88 cm)
E: control panel front, 3.125 in × 22 in (7.94 cm × 55.88 cm)
F (G): back (with cutout door), 20.75 in × 22 in (52.7 cm × 55.9 cm)
H: marquee bottom, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)
I: bottom, 17.5 in × 22 in (44 cm × 56 cm)
K: monitor cleat, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)
3-2. Add beveled edges to several cut pieces.
In order to join properly, several pieces from the cut list need bevels. Follow the instructions for your table saw to set the blade to the correct angles for the following cuts:
B: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)
C: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg)
D: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg), other long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)
E: one long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)
F: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)
3-3. Cut out the monitor opening in the monitor panel (part C).
Use a circular saw to cut a 19 in × 10.875 in (48.26 cm × 27.62 cm) rectangle out of the monitor panel, so that the cutout is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the sides of the panel, and 4.6875 in (11.906 cm) from the top of the panel. Then, use a drill to cut two 0.75 in (1.9 cm) holes in the top left and top right corners of the monitor panel; each hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top of the panel and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the side.
The cutout above assumes a 21.5 in (55 cm) flatscreen monitor. Your cutout dimensions may vary based on the specific display you choose.
3-4. Cut the door (G) out of the back panel (F).
Use your circular saw and cut a 17.75 in × 14.5625 in (45.085 cm × 36.989 cm) rectangle out of the center of the back panel. The door cutout should be 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top and bottom of the back panel, and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the sides.
Later, you can screw in small hinges and a latch to keep the door in place.
3-5. Cut mortises into parts B and H, and drill holes into part H.
Cut a mortise that is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep, 0.1875 in (0.476 cm) wide, and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) set back from the long, non-beveled edge of the marquee top (B). Cut the same type of mortise into one of the long edges of the marquee bottom (H). With the mortise facing down and on the top edge, drill the following holes into part H:
two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes, each centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the bottom and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) from the sides of H.
one 0.75 in (1.9 cm) hole, centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the left side and 1.625 in (4.13 cm) from the bottom of H.
The mortises will allow the marquee (part J)—the translucent panel that identifies an arcade game, and which you can order online—to slide into place, while the large holes are speaker outputs.
3-6. Cut holes for the joysticks and buttons into the control panel top (D) and front (E).
The number, size, and location of the holes will depend on the type of control panel you intend to wire into your arcade cabinet. Use your chosen control panel as a template to determine the correct holes to drill into parts D and E.
Essentially, you’ll buy a 2-person, arcade-style control panel, take it apart, install the buttons and joysticks into parts D and E, and re-wire everything back together.
Alternatively, you could cut out an opening into part D that is large enough for you to drop the purchased control panel into place, then secure it (if desired) with glue or clips.
3-7. Assemble parts B through K using glue, clamps, and nails.
For each connection point, apply wood glue to the edges, apply several temporary clamps to hold the joint in place, and use a nail gun to shoot in several 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails along the connection point. Allow the glue on each joint to dry before removing the clamps and moving onto the next connection point.
It is much easier to visualize how the pieces fit together than to describe it in words. Check out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://thewoodwhisperer.com/files/TWW-Arcade-Cabinet-V2.pdf, and follow along the assembly video at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/.
3-8. Use assembled parts B-K to trace the outlines for the side pieces (part A).
Lay the assembled (but without sides) tabletop cabinet on top of one of the part A pieces of plywood. Use a pencil to trace the angular outline onto A. Lay the other side of the cabinet on the other piece of part A plywood and repeat the process. Then carefully cut out each side piece along these lines.
Use a table saw for cutting, and possibly a small hand saw for some of the tighter angles.
Check out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/ to get an idea of what your side panels will look like.
3-9. Glue and nail the side panels in place after installing your gaming system.
Even though you’ve added an access door (G) to the back panel (F), you won’t be able to install the monitor, gaming system, speakers, lighting, control panel, and all the associated wiring once you close up the arcade cabinet. Therefore, acquire and install these elements into the cabinet before you attach the side panels with glue, clamps, and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails.
A small, single-board computer (such as Raspberry Pi) makes a great gaming system choice for this tabletop cabinet, but you may also be able to fit other types of gaming systems inside.
Look for tutorials online regarding how to install a Raspberry Pi system (or other gaming system) and the other needed elements (monitor, speakers, controls, etc.).
Warnings
Many gaming emulators (which, for instance, let you play classic video games on a PC) are of questionable legality due to potential patent and copyright violations. Utilize such emulators at your own risk, or stick to using more modern gaming consoles (e.g., Playstation, XBox, etc.) in a retro setting.
Always wear eye protection and work carefully whenever using a jigsaw or other power tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Exploring Cabinet Options and Alternatives\\n1-1. Buy and assemble a pre-cut arcade cabinet kit.\\nYou can find these online starting at around $500 USD. The kit should arrive with detailed assembly instructions and all the pre-cut pieces you need, usually made of MDF (an engineered wood fiberboard). Essentially, this will be like assembling any other type of boxed furniture—you’ll need lots of patience and the ability to drive in many screws.\\nMost kits only provide the wooden shell for the cabinet, meaning you’ll still need to acquire a monitor, control panel, gaming system, etc., and install them.\\n1-2. Download plans with templates and cut the wood yourself.\\nLook online for detailed plans, which should include templates for the various pieces of wood needed to create the cabinet. Follow the plans to measure, mark, and cut the wood (usually a combination of dimensional lumber and MDF) to match the templates, then to assemble the cabinet with a drill and screws.\\nAt minimum, you’ll need a pair of sawhorses and a jigsaw to cut the pieces of wood properly. Make sure you wear eye protection and take other safety measures whenever you cut wood.\\nYou may be able to find plans online for free, but you’ll still need to invest in building materials and all the gaming mechanisms (monitor, control panel, etc.).\\n1-3. Create your own design and build from scratch.\\nIf you want complete control over the look of your arcade cabinet, first take some time to check out existing design plans online. Then, create your own design on paper and use accurate measurements to transfer your templates to sheets of MDF and pieces of dimensional lumber. After a lot of cutting, drilling, screwing, sanding, painting, and installing, you’ll have an arcade cabinet that’s uniquely yours!\\nThis type of DIY project might take a few days if you’re able to dedicate yourself fully to it, but is more likely to take several weeks or even a couple months if you’re only able to tackle it during your spare time.\\n1-4. Transform a standard desk into an “arcade cabinet” facsimile.\\nBasically, if you have a wood desk with a large drawer under the desktop, you can “hack” a simple form of arcade cabinet. This involves drilling holes in the desktop for installing the buttons and joysticks (or cutting a larger opening for dropping in a 2-person gaming controller), mounting the screen to the back of the desktop, and installing the gaming system and wiring everything together inside the drawer.\\nYou can find several versions of this hack online that utilize a relatively small and inexpensive desk from Ikea. Some versions even utilize an extra drawer that is installed upright on the back of the desktop to help enclose the monitor.\\n2. Repurposing an Old Arcade Cabinet\\n2-1. Locate and buy a broken-down arcade cabinet.\\nSearch on Craigslist or similar websites for people selling old arcade cabinets. Due to the decline in the number of video arcades over the past 20 years or so, it probably won't be difficult to find cabinets for sale in your area.\\nYou may be able to find a non-functional cabinet in the $100-$150 USD range.\\nThe cabinet doesn’t need to look pretty at this point, but find one that’s still structurally sound if possible.\\n2-2. Pull out the interior components.\\nIf your arcade cabinet hasn’t already been “gutted,” remove the back panel and take out the electronics. If you have some wiring skills and would like to keep some of the original components—the speakers, the lights for the coin slots, etc.—feel free to do so.\\nIf it still works, you may want to keep and reuse the cabinet’s existing CRT monitor. However, in most cases, it’s easier to replace it with either an old CRT TV or monitor or a modern flat-screen version. The flat-screen won’t have quite the same retro feel, but it makes the whole cabinet much lighter.\\n2-3. Repaint the cabinet exterior.\\nApply wood filler to any small holes or cracks, then thoroughly sand all the wood parts of the exterior with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Wipe the cabinet down with a tack cloth to remove any dust, then use painter’s tape to cover any areas you don’t want to paint. Follow this up by applying 1 coat of primer with a brush and/or roller, then finish with 2 coats of paint.\\nFor the best adhesion and durability on a wooden cabinet, choose interior latex primer and paint with a semi-gloss finish.\\nFollow the drying times between coats listed on your chosen primer and paint.\\nYou can order vinyl decal stickers to add to your cabinet after the paint dries, or try your hand at painting your own artwork on it!\\n2-4. Mount a remote-controlled power strip inside the cabinet.\\nAttach the power strip to an interior wall of the cabinet with screws or mounting tape, then drill a hole or cut a notch into the cabinet so you can feed the cord out. This way, you’ll only need one outlet to plug into in order to power all the new components inside your cabinet.\\nBy using a remote-controlled power strip, you’ll be able to turn on all the new components—gaming system, monitor, etc.—with the push of a single button.\\nRemote-controlled power strips usually have a remote (with on/off buttons) that fits into a mountable cradle. You can mount this onto the side, top, or back of your finished cabinet.\\n2-5. Mount the new flat-screen monitor.\\nCut a rectangular piece of plywood that fits over the opening left behind by the old CRT monitor. Connect one side of a TV mounting bracket to the back of your flat-screen TV or monitor with the included bolts, and the other side to the plywood with wood screws. Lay the mounted TV in place and secure the plywood into the cabinet frame with wood screws.\\nDepending on the size of the previous CRT monitor, either a 24 in (61 cm) or 27 in (69 cm) LCD monitor with a 16:9 ratio will likely fit best.\\nBefore mounting the TV, consider painting the plywood black to make it less noticeable.\\nMany old arcade cabinets had a plexiglass (or actual glass) panel that covered the monitor. You can reuse the existing panel (depending on its condition), cut a new sheet of plexiglass to fit, or omit the panel altogether.\\n2-6. Replace the control panel.\\nDepending on your skill level and the condition of the existing control panel, you may be able to salvage and rewire the current buttons, joystick, etc. However, it’s probably easier to start fresh. You can pull out the old control panel components, buy a 2-person retro-style gaming controller online, feed its USB cord into the cabinet, and attach the controller (with mounting tape or adhesive) to the steel panel that housed the former controls.\\nAlternatively—and only if you know a decent amount about wiring—you can buy the new gaming controller, take it apart, and install its buttons and joysticks into the vacated openings in the steel control panel. You may, however, have to take the steel panel to a metal shop to have additional holes drilled or the existing ones adjusted.\\n2-7. Install speakers and lighting into the top section of the cabinet.\\nAbove the monitor, you’ll find the section of the cabinet with the marquee that identifies the game. This is also where the speakers usually are. The easiest audio option is to lay a set of computer speakers face-down over the existing speaker holes in the cabinet, then secure them in place with mounting tape or screwed-in brackets.\\nIf you’d like the marquee to light up when you play, mount an 18 in (46 cm) fluorescent light fixture inside it and plug it into the power strip.\\nIf you also want the coin slots in the lower cabinet to light up, you might try to wire a couple small LED lights in place (depending on your wiring skills). Or, you can install another fluorescent light bar on the inside of the lower cabinet near the coin slots and let it illuminate them.\\n2-8. Install your gaming system(s).\\nArcade cabinets provide plenty of interior space for one or more gaming systems. Depending on your preferences, you might install a PC, a home gaming system, or a small, single-board computer (such as the Raspberry Pi series). Follow the instructions for each for hooking them up to the monitor and joystick controls. Then, plug into the power strip and get ready to play!\\nIf you need help setting up your preferred gaming system, follow the included instructions or look online for tutorials.\\nAll told, plan to spend around $500-$1000 USD on this arcade cabinet, depending on the amount of hardware (monitor, gaming system, etc.) you already own.\\n3. Building a Tabletop Cabinet from Plywood\\n3-1. Complete your cut list out of 0.75 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood.\\nUse a table saw to make the cuts, and make sure to wear eye protection and follow all other saw safety precautions. You’ll fine-tune and assemble the following pieces into the tabletop arcade cabinet:\\nPart A: 2 side pieces, each 18 in × 25 in (46 cm × 64 cm)\\nB: marquee top, 6.75 in × 22 in (17.1 cm × 55.9 cm)\\nC: monitor panel, 18 in × 22 in (46 cm × 56 cm)\\nD: control panel top, 7.875 in × 22 in (20.00 cm × 55.88 cm)\\nE: control panel front, 3.125 in × 22 in (7.94 cm × 55.88 cm)\\nF (G): back (with cutout door), 20.75 in × 22 in (52.7 cm × 55.9 cm)\\nH: marquee bottom, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)\\nI: bottom, 17.5 in × 22 in (44 cm × 56 cm)\\nK: monitor cleat, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)\\n3-2. Add beveled edges to several cut pieces.\\nIn order to join properly, several pieces from the cut list need bevels. Follow the instructions for your table saw to set the blade to the correct angles for the following cuts:\\nB: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)\\nC: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg)\\nD: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg), other long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)\\nE: one long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)\\nF: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)\\n3-3. Cut out the monitor opening in the monitor panel (part C).\\nUse a circular saw to cut a 19 in × 10.875 in (48.26 cm × 27.62 cm) rectangle out of the monitor panel, so that the cutout is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the sides of the panel, and 4.6875 in (11.906 cm) from the top of the panel. Then, use a drill to cut two 0.75 in (1.9 cm) holes in the top left and top right corners of the monitor panel; each hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top of the panel and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the side.\\nThe cutout above assumes a 21.5 in (55 cm) flatscreen monitor. Your cutout dimensions may vary based on the specific display you choose.\\n3-4. Cut the door (G) out of the back panel (F).\\nUse your circular saw and cut a 17.75 in × 14.5625 in (45.085 cm × 36.989 cm) rectangle out of the center of the back panel. The door cutout should be 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top and bottom of the back panel, and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the sides.\\nLater, you can screw in small hinges and a latch to keep the door in place.\\n3-5. Cut mortises into parts B and H, and drill holes into part H.\\nCut a mortise that is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep, 0.1875 in (0.476 cm) wide, and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) set back from the long, non-beveled edge of the marquee top (B). Cut the same type of mortise into one of the long edges of the marquee bottom (H). With the mortise facing down and on the top edge, drill the following holes into part H:\\ntwo 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes, each centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the bottom and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) from the sides of H.\\none 0.75 in (1.9 cm) hole, centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the left side and 1.625 in (4.13 cm) from the bottom of H.\\nThe mortises will allow the marquee (part J)—the translucent panel that identifies an arcade game, and which you can order online—to slide into place, while the large holes are speaker outputs.\\n3-6. Cut holes for the joysticks and buttons into the control panel top (D) and front (E).\\nThe number, size, and location of the holes will depend on the type of control panel you intend to wire into your arcade cabinet. Use your chosen control panel as a template to determine the correct holes to drill into parts D and E.\\nEssentially, you’ll buy a 2-person, arcade-style control panel, take it apart, install the buttons and joysticks into parts D and E, and re-wire everything back together.\\nAlternatively, you could cut out an opening into part D that is large enough for you to drop the purchased control panel into place, then secure it (if desired) with glue or clips.\\n3-7. Assemble parts B through K using glue, clamps, and nails.\\nFor each connection point, apply wood glue to the edges, apply several temporary clamps to hold the joint in place, and use a nail gun to shoot in several 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails along the connection point. Allow the glue on each joint to dry before removing the clamps and moving onto the next connection point.\\nIt is much easier to visualize how the pieces fit together than to describe it in words. Check out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://thewoodwhisperer.com/files/TWW-Arcade-Cabinet-V2.pdf, and follow along the assembly video at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/.\\n3-8. Use assembled parts B-K to trace the outlines for the side pieces (part A).\\nLay the assembled (but without sides) tabletop cabinet on top of one of the part A pieces of plywood. Use a pencil to trace the angular outline onto A. Lay the other side of the cabinet on the other piece of part A plywood and repeat the process. Then carefully cut out each side piece along these lines.\\nUse a table saw for cutting, and possibly a small hand saw for some of the tighter angles.\\nCheck out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/ to get an idea of what your side panels will look like.\\n3-9. Glue and nail the side panels in place after installing your gaming system.\\nEven though you’ve added an access door (G) to the back panel (F), you won’t be able to install the monitor, gaming system, speakers, lighting, control panel, and all the associated wiring once you close up the arcade cabinet. Therefore, acquire and install these elements into the cabinet before you attach the side panels with glue, clamps, and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails.\\nA small, single-board computer (such as Raspberry Pi) makes a great gaming system choice for this tabletop cabinet, but you may also be able to fit other types of gaming systems inside.\\nLook for tutorials online regarding how to install a Raspberry Pi system (or other gaming system) and the other needed elements (monitor, speakers, controls, etc.).\\nWarnings\\nMany gaming emulators (which, for instance, let you play classic video games on a PC) are of questionable legality due to potential patent and copyright violations. Utilize such emulators at your own risk, or stick to using more modern gaming consoles (e.g., Playstation, XBox, etc.) in a retro setting.\\nAlways wear eye protection and work carefully whenever using a jigsaw or other power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’d like to play video games in a classic setting, you may want to house your gaming system in either a refurbished arcade cabinet or a newly-build cabinet that looks old-school. Your most manageable option is probably to buy a derelict arcade cabinet, gut it, install your gaming system, and make it all look pretty. However, if you have some woodworking skills and truly want to build your own arcade cabinet from scratch, you can investigate several options, from tabletop to full-size and beyond.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Exploring Cabinet Options and Alternatives\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy and assemble a pre-cut arcade cabinet kit.\", \"描述\": \"You can find these online starting at around $500 USD. The kit should arrive with detailed assembly instructions and all the pre-cut pieces you need, usually made of MDF (an engineered wood fiberboard). Essentially, this will be like assembling any other type of boxed furniture—you’ll need lots of patience and the ability to drive in many screws.\\nMost kits only provide the wooden shell for the cabinet, meaning you’ll still need to acquire a monitor, control panel, gaming system, etc., and install them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Download plans with templates and cut the wood yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Look online for detailed plans, which should include templates for the various pieces of wood needed to create the cabinet. Follow the plans to measure, mark, and cut the wood (usually a combination of dimensional lumber and MDF) to match the templates, then to assemble the cabinet with a drill and screws.\\nAt minimum, you’ll need a pair of sawhorses and a jigsaw to cut the pieces of wood properly. Make sure you wear eye protection and take other safety measures whenever you cut wood.\\nYou may be able to find plans online for free, but you’ll still need to invest in building materials and all the gaming mechanisms (monitor, control panel, etc.).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create your own design and build from scratch.\", \"描述\": \"If you want complete control over the look of your arcade cabinet, first take some time to check out existing design plans online. Then, create your own design on paper and use accurate measurements to transfer your templates to sheets of MDF and pieces of dimensional lumber. After a lot of cutting, drilling, screwing, sanding, painting, and installing, you’ll have an arcade cabinet that’s uniquely yours!\\nThis type of DIY project might take a few days if you’re able to dedicate yourself fully to it, but is more likely to take several weeks or even a couple months if you’re only able to tackle it during your spare time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Transform a standard desk into an “arcade cabinet” facsimile.\", \"描述\": \"Basically, if you have a wood desk with a large drawer under the desktop, you can “hack” a simple form of arcade cabinet. This involves drilling holes in the desktop for installing the buttons and joysticks (or cutting a larger opening for dropping in a 2-person gaming controller), mounting the screen to the back of the desktop, and installing the gaming system and wiring everything together inside the drawer.\\nYou can find several versions of this hack online that utilize a relatively small and inexpensive desk from Ikea. Some versions even utilize an extra drawer that is installed upright on the back of the desktop to help enclose the monitor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Repurposing an Old Arcade Cabinet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Locate and buy a broken-down arcade cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Search on Craigslist or similar websites for people selling old arcade cabinets. Due to the decline in the number of video arcades over the past 20 years or so, it probably won't be difficult to find cabinets for sale in your area.\\nYou may be able to find a non-functional cabinet in the $100-$150 USD range.\\nThe cabinet doesn’t need to look pretty at this point, but find one that’s still structurally sound if possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pull out the interior components.\", \"描述\": \"If your arcade cabinet hasn’t already been “gutted,” remove the back panel and take out the electronics. If you have some wiring skills and would like to keep some of the original components—the speakers, the lights for the coin slots, etc.—feel free to do so.\\nIf it still works, you may want to keep and reuse the cabinet’s existing CRT monitor. However, in most cases, it’s easier to replace it with either an old CRT TV or monitor or a modern flat-screen version. The flat-screen won’t have quite the same retro feel, but it makes the whole cabinet much lighter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Repaint the cabinet exterior.\", \"描述\": \"Apply wood filler to any small holes or cracks, then thoroughly sand all the wood parts of the exterior with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Wipe the cabinet down with a tack cloth to remove any dust, then use painter’s tape to cover any areas you don’t want to paint. Follow this up by applying 1 coat of primer with a brush and/or roller, then finish with 2 coats of paint.\\nFor the best adhesion and durability on a wooden cabinet, choose interior latex primer and paint with a semi-gloss finish.\\nFollow the drying times between coats listed on your chosen primer and paint.\\nYou can order vinyl decal stickers to add to your cabinet after the paint dries, or try your hand at painting your own artwork on it!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount a remote-controlled power strip inside the cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the power strip to an interior wall of the cabinet with screws or mounting tape, then drill a hole or cut a notch into the cabinet so you can feed the cord out. This way, you’ll only need one outlet to plug into in order to power all the new components inside your cabinet.\\nBy using a remote-controlled power strip, you’ll be able to turn on all the new components—gaming system, monitor, etc.—with the push of a single button.\\nRemote-controlled power strips usually have a remote (with on/off buttons) that fits into a mountable cradle. You can mount this onto the side, top, or back of your finished cabinet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mount the new flat-screen monitor.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a rectangular piece of plywood that fits over the opening left behind by the old CRT monitor. Connect one side of a TV mounting bracket to the back of your flat-screen TV or monitor with the included bolts, and the other side to the plywood with wood screws. Lay the mounted TV in place and secure the plywood into the cabinet frame with wood screws.\\nDepending on the size of the previous CRT monitor, either a 24 in (61 cm) or 27 in (69 cm) LCD monitor with a 16:9 ratio will likely fit best.\\nBefore mounting the TV, consider painting the plywood black to make it less noticeable.\\nMany old arcade cabinets had a plexiglass (or actual glass) panel that covered the monitor. You can reuse the existing panel (depending on its condition), cut a new sheet of plexiglass to fit, or omit the panel altogether.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Replace the control panel.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on your skill level and the condition of the existing control panel, you may be able to salvage and rewire the current buttons, joystick, etc. However, it’s probably easier to start fresh. You can pull out the old control panel components, buy a 2-person retro-style gaming controller online, feed its USB cord into the cabinet, and attach the controller (with mounting tape or adhesive) to the steel panel that housed the former controls.\\nAlternatively—and only if you know a decent amount about wiring—you can buy the new gaming controller, take it apart, and install its buttons and joysticks into the vacated openings in the steel control panel. You may, however, have to take the steel panel to a metal shop to have additional holes drilled or the existing ones adjusted.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install speakers and lighting into the top section of the cabinet.\", \"描述\": \"Above the monitor, you’ll find the section of the cabinet with the marquee that identifies the game. This is also where the speakers usually are. The easiest audio option is to lay a set of computer speakers face-down over the existing speaker holes in the cabinet, then secure them in place with mounting tape or screwed-in brackets.\\nIf you’d like the marquee to light up when you play, mount an 18 in (46 cm) fluorescent light fixture inside it and plug it into the power strip.\\nIf you also want the coin slots in the lower cabinet to light up, you might try to wire a couple small LED lights in place (depending on your wiring skills). Or, you can install another fluorescent light bar on the inside of the lower cabinet near the coin slots and let it illuminate them.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install your gaming system(s).\", \"描述\": \"Arcade cabinets provide plenty of interior space for one or more gaming systems. Depending on your preferences, you might install a PC, a home gaming system, or a small, single-board computer (such as the Raspberry Pi series). Follow the instructions for each for hooking them up to the monitor and joystick controls. Then, plug into the power strip and get ready to play!\\nIf you need help setting up your preferred gaming system, follow the included instructions or look online for tutorials.\\nAll told, plan to spend around $500-$1000 USD on this arcade cabinet, depending on the amount of hardware (monitor, gaming system, etc.) you already own.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Tabletop Cabinet from Plywood\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Complete your cut list out of 0.75 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Use a table saw to make the cuts, and make sure to wear eye protection and follow all other saw safety precautions. You’ll fine-tune and assemble the following pieces into the tabletop arcade cabinet:\\nPart A: 2 side pieces, each 18 in × 25 in (46 cm × 64 cm)\\nB: marquee top, 6.75 in × 22 in (17.1 cm × 55.9 cm)\\nC: monitor panel, 18 in × 22 in (46 cm × 56 cm)\\nD: control panel top, 7.875 in × 22 in (20.00 cm × 55.88 cm)\\nE: control panel front, 3.125 in × 22 in (7.94 cm × 55.88 cm)\\nF (G): back (with cutout door), 20.75 in × 22 in (52.7 cm × 55.9 cm)\\nH: marquee bottom, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)\\nI: bottom, 17.5 in × 22 in (44 cm × 56 cm)\\nK: monitor cleat, 4 in × 22 in (10 cm × 56 cm)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add beveled edges to several cut pieces.\", \"描述\": \"In order to join properly, several pieces from the cut list need bevels. Follow the instructions for your table saw to set the blade to the correct angles for the following cuts:\\nB: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)\\nC: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg)\\nD: one long edge at 63.7 deg (set saw to 26.3 deg), other long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)\\nE: one long edge at 77.5 deg (set saw to 12.5 deg)\\nF: one long edge at 57.5 deg (set saw to 32.5 deg)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut out the monitor opening in the monitor panel (part C).\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw to cut a 19 in × 10.875 in (48.26 cm × 27.62 cm) rectangle out of the monitor panel, so that the cutout is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the sides of the panel, and 4.6875 in (11.906 cm) from the top of the panel. Then, use a drill to cut two 0.75 in (1.9 cm) holes in the top left and top right corners of the monitor panel; each hole should be 1 in (2.5 cm) from the top of the panel and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the side.\\nThe cutout above assumes a 21.5 in (55 cm) flatscreen monitor. Your cutout dimensions may vary based on the specific display you choose.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the door (G) out of the back panel (F).\", \"描述\": \"Use your circular saw and cut a 17.75 in × 14.5625 in (45.085 cm × 36.989 cm) rectangle out of the center of the back panel. The door cutout should be 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top and bottom of the back panel, and 2 in (5.1 cm) from the sides.\\nLater, you can screw in small hinges and a latch to keep the door in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut mortises into parts B and H, and drill holes into part H.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a mortise that is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep, 0.1875 in (0.476 cm) wide, and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) set back from the long, non-beveled edge of the marquee top (B). Cut the same type of mortise into one of the long edges of the marquee bottom (H). With the mortise facing down and on the top edge, drill the following holes into part H:\\ntwo 1.5 in (3.8 cm) holes, each centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the bottom and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) from the sides of H.\\none 0.75 in (1.9 cm) hole, centered 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the left side and 1.625 in (4.13 cm) from the bottom of H.\\nThe mortises will allow the marquee (part J)—the translucent panel that identifies an arcade game, and which you can order online—to slide into place, while the large holes are speaker outputs.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut holes for the joysticks and buttons into the control panel top (D) and front (E).\", \"描述\": \"The number, size, and location of the holes will depend on the type of control panel you intend to wire into your arcade cabinet. Use your chosen control panel as a template to determine the correct holes to drill into parts D and E.\\nEssentially, you’ll buy a 2-person, arcade-style control panel, take it apart, install the buttons and joysticks into parts D and E, and re-wire everything back together.\\nAlternatively, you could cut out an opening into part D that is large enough for you to drop the purchased control panel into place, then secure it (if desired) with glue or clips.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assemble parts B through K using glue, clamps, and nails.\", \"描述\": \"For each connection point, apply wood glue to the edges, apply several temporary clamps to hold the joint in place, and use a nail gun to shoot in several 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails along the connection point. Allow the glue on each joint to dry before removing the clamps and moving onto the next connection point.\\nIt is much easier to visualize how the pieces fit together than to describe it in words. Check out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://thewoodwhisperer.com/files/TWW-Arcade-Cabinet-V2.pdf, and follow along the assembly video at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use assembled parts B-K to trace the outlines for the side pieces (part A).\", \"描述\": \"Lay the assembled (but without sides) tabletop cabinet on top of one of the part A pieces of plywood. Use a pencil to trace the angular outline onto A. Lay the other side of the cabinet on the other piece of part A plywood and repeat the process. Then carefully cut out each side piece along these lines.\\nUse a table saw for cutting, and possibly a small hand saw for some of the tighter angles.\\nCheck out the “exploded view” (page 4) at https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/bartop-arcade-raspberry-pi/ to get an idea of what your side panels will look like.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Glue and nail the side panels in place after installing your gaming system.\", \"描述\": \"Even though you’ve added an access door (G) to the back panel (F), you won’t be able to install the monitor, gaming system, speakers, lighting, control panel, and all the associated wiring once you close up the arcade cabinet. Therefore, acquire and install these elements into the cabinet before you attach the side panels with glue, clamps, and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) brad nails.\\nA small, single-board computer (such as Raspberry Pi) makes a great gaming system choice for this tabletop cabinet, but you may also be able to fit other types of gaming systems inside.\\nLook for tutorials online regarding how to install a Raspberry Pi system (or other gaming system) and the other needed elements (monitor, speakers, controls, etc.).\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Many gaming emulators (which, for instance, let you play classic video games on a PC) are of questionable legality due to potential patent and copyright violations. Utilize such emulators at your own risk, or stick to using more modern gaming consoles (e.g., Playstation, XBox, etc.) in a retro setting.\\n\", \"Always wear eye protection and work carefully whenever using a jigsaw or other power tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,646 |
How to Build an Ark
|
1. Steps
1-1. Pick a consistent conversion factor for converting cubits to modern measurements.
The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to build the original Ark to certain exact specifications. Said God to Noah, "This is how you are to build it: The ark is to be three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high". Today, these measurements are somewhat problematic because we don't know exactly how long a cubit is. Cubits are an ancient unit of measurement based on the distance from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, so different cultures had different values for the length of one cubit. Generally speaking, most ancient cultures had cubits that were between 17.5 and 20.6 inches (44.5 - 52.3 cm) long.
The most important thing is to be consistent - pick one cubit length and stick to it to ensure the proportions of your ark are correct. For convenience's sake, this guide will assume we're working with a type of cubit called "common cubits", so our conversion factor will be .
1-2. Buy or cut lots of cypress wood.
The Bible tells us that the original Ark was made exclusively from cypress wood. Today, "cypress" refers to a number of coniferous trees and shrubs in the family family Cupressaceae. Noah may have used Mediterranean cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), a variety of cypress tree native to the Mediterranean and Levant. Whichever type of cypress you use, you'll need enough to build the hull of a ship three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high in addition to the deck, roof, and flooring below deck.
If, for convenience, we assume a box-shaped Ark and 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, our 300 × 50 × 30 cubit Ark will require at least square feet of cypress wood. The actual amount will likely be more than this, as you'll need to build a hull that's more than one layer thick, as well as a roof and flooring inside the Ark.
1-3. Build a curved wooden hull to fit the dimensions of the bible.
For your ark to be able to float in the tumultuous waters of a world-destroying flood, it will need to be of very sturdy construction. You'll want to build a thick hull with a wide, gently curving cross section that tapers at either end. Add a keel (a vertical "fin" running the length of the bottom of the hull) for added stability. After you've built the main hull, add horizontal and diagonal cross-beams stretching across the inside of the hull to increase the strength of the ark's walls.
The ark is truly a massive undertaking. Assuming 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, the hull of your ark should be 450 feet (137.2 m) long, 75 feet (22.9 m) wide, and 45 feet (13.7 m) high. The process of building the hull can be sped up greatly with modern tools and construction methods, but if you're using only ancient tools, it may take months or years!
1-4. Add flooring inside the ark and a door on the side.
The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah, "Put a door in the side of the ark and make lower, middle and upper decks". Adding multiple decks will allow you to make the most of the vertical space within the ark, storing as many animals as possible, while adding a door to the side of the ark makes it possible for land animals to easily board the ark.
The Bible doesn't specify dimensions for the different decks within the ark, so use your best judgement. You may, for instance, want the bottom deck to be taller than the others to accommodate the biggest animals, like elephants and giraffes.
1-5. Add a roof.
A firm, sturdy roof is an important part of your ark. The original world-destroying flood was caused by forty days and forty nights of rain - in the event of a similar situation, it's important to have some way to keep the rain from gathering below deck and sinking your ark! The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to "Make a roof for [the ark], leaving below the roof an opening one cubit high all around".
Be sure to build your roof so that the edges of the roof reach over the edges of the upper deck. You want any rainwater to drain away from the upper deck and into the waters of the flood.
1-6. Coat the wood of the hull with pitch.
It's (obviously) extremely important for your ark to be as waterproof as possible. God knew this and commanded Noah to "coat [the ark] with pitch inside and out". Pitch is a thick, viscous, resin not unlike tar that, in ancient times, was used to waterproof boats. Pitch can be made from natural plants (especially pine trees) or from petroleum - naturally, Noah probably used the former.
1-7. Fill your ark with animals.
Congratulations, you've built a modern-day ark based on the original specifications given to Noah by God! Now, all you need to do is find male-female pairs of every major species of bird and land animal to repopulate the Earth after the apocalyptic flood. However, according to the Bible, some animals are more important than others. Consider God's original advice to Noah when gathering animals: "Take with you seven pairs of every kind of clean animal, a male and its mate, and one pair of every kind of unclean animal, a male and its mate, and also seven pairs of every kind of bird, male and female, to keep their various kinds alive throughout the earth".
"Clean" and "unclean" refer to ancient Jewish customs governing the suitability of certain types of animals for eating and sacrifice. The distinction between which animals are "clean" and which are "unclean is somewhat complex, but, in general, "clean" animals are:
Quadrupeds that chew cud and possess a cloven hoof.
Fish.
Most birds, excluding birds of prey and most waterfowl.
A few select types of vermin and insects.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Pick a consistent conversion factor for converting cubits to modern measurements.\\nThe Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to build the original Ark to certain exact specifications. Said God to Noah, \\\"This is how you are to build it: The ark is to be three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high\\\". Today, these measurements are somewhat problematic because we don't know exactly how long a cubit is. Cubits are an ancient unit of measurement based on the distance from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, so different cultures had different values for the length of one cubit. Generally speaking, most ancient cultures had cubits that were between 17.5 and 20.6 inches (44.5 - 52.3 cm) long.\\nThe most important thing is to be consistent - pick one cubit length and stick to it to ensure the proportions of your ark are correct. For convenience's sake, this guide will assume we're working with a type of cubit called \\\"common cubits\\\", so our conversion factor will be .\\n1-2. Buy or cut lots of cypress wood.\\nThe Bible tells us that the original Ark was made exclusively from cypress wood. Today, \\\"cypress\\\" refers to a number of coniferous trees and shrubs in the family family Cupressaceae. Noah may have used Mediterranean cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), a variety of cypress tree native to the Mediterranean and Levant. Whichever type of cypress you use, you'll need enough to build the hull of a ship three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high in addition to the deck, roof, and flooring below deck.\\nIf, for convenience, we assume a box-shaped Ark and 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, our 300 × 50 × 30 cubit Ark will require at least square feet of cypress wood. The actual amount will likely be more than this, as you'll need to build a hull that's more than one layer thick, as well as a roof and flooring inside the Ark.\\n1-3. Build a curved wooden hull to fit the dimensions of the bible.\\nFor your ark to be able to float in the tumultuous waters of a world-destroying flood, it will need to be of very sturdy construction. You'll want to build a thick hull with a wide, gently curving cross section that tapers at either end. Add a keel (a vertical \\\"fin\\\" running the length of the bottom of the hull) for added stability. After you've built the main hull, add horizontal and diagonal cross-beams stretching across the inside of the hull to increase the strength of the ark's walls.\\nThe ark is truly a massive undertaking. Assuming 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, the hull of your ark should be 450 feet (137.2 m) long, 75 feet (22.9 m) wide, and 45 feet (13.7 m) high. The process of building the hull can be sped up greatly with modern tools and construction methods, but if you're using only ancient tools, it may take months or years!\\n1-4. Add flooring inside the ark and a door on the side.\\nThe Bible tells us that God commanded Noah, \\\"Put a door in the side of the ark and make lower, middle and upper decks\\\". Adding multiple decks will allow you to make the most of the vertical space within the ark, storing as many animals as possible, while adding a door to the side of the ark makes it possible for land animals to easily board the ark.\\nThe Bible doesn't specify dimensions for the different decks within the ark, so use your best judgement. You may, for instance, want the bottom deck to be taller than the others to accommodate the biggest animals, like elephants and giraffes.\\n1-5. Add a roof.\\nA firm, sturdy roof is an important part of your ark. The original world-destroying flood was caused by forty days and forty nights of rain - in the event of a similar situation, it's important to have some way to keep the rain from gathering below deck and sinking your ark! The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to \\\"Make a roof for [the ark], leaving below the roof an opening one cubit high all around\\\".\\nBe sure to build your roof so that the edges of the roof reach over the edges of the upper deck. You want any rainwater to drain away from the upper deck and into the waters of the flood.\\n1-6. Coat the wood of the hull with pitch.\\nIt's (obviously) extremely important for your ark to be as waterproof as possible. God knew this and commanded Noah to \\\"coat [the ark] with pitch inside and out\\\". Pitch is a thick, viscous, resin not unlike tar that, in ancient times, was used to waterproof boats. Pitch can be made from natural plants (especially pine trees) or from petroleum - naturally, Noah probably used the former.\\n1-7. Fill your ark with animals.\\nCongratulations, you've built a modern-day ark based on the original specifications given to Noah by God! Now, all you need to do is find male-female pairs of every major species of bird and land animal to repopulate the Earth after the apocalyptic flood. However, according to the Bible, some animals are more important than others. Consider God's original advice to Noah when gathering animals: \\\"Take with you seven pairs of every kind of clean animal, a male and its mate, and one pair of every kind of unclean animal, a male and its mate, and also seven pairs of every kind of bird, male and female, to keep their various kinds alive throughout the earth\\\".\\n\\\"Clean\\\" and \\\"unclean\\\" refer to ancient Jewish customs governing the suitability of certain types of animals for eating and sacrifice. The distinction between which animals are \\\"clean\\\" and which are \\\"unclean is somewhat complex, but, in general, \\\"clean\\\" animals are:\\nQuadrupeds that chew cud and possess a cloven hoof.\\nFish.\\nMost birds, excluding birds of prey and most waterfowl.\\nA few select types of vermin and insects.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you received a vision of calamity from on high? Are you the only remaining righteous soul on an Earth awash in violence, evil, and corruption? Survive the oncoming flood buy building your very own Ark and populating it with \\\"two of all living creatures, male and female\\\". See Step 1 below to get started building an Ark according to the specifications in the Bible!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a consistent conversion factor for converting cubits to modern measurements.\", \"描述\": \"The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to build the original Ark to certain exact specifications. Said God to Noah, \\\"This is how you are to build it: The ark is to be three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high\\\". Today, these measurements are somewhat problematic because we don't know exactly how long a cubit is. Cubits are an ancient unit of measurement based on the distance from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, so different cultures had different values for the length of one cubit. Generally speaking, most ancient cultures had cubits that were between 17.5 and 20.6 inches (44.5 - 52.3 cm) long.\\nThe most important thing is to be consistent - pick one cubit length and stick to it to ensure the proportions of your ark are correct. For convenience's sake, this guide will assume we're working with a type of cubit called \\\"common cubits\\\", so our conversion factor will be .\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy or cut lots of cypress wood.\", \"描述\": \"The Bible tells us that the original Ark was made exclusively from cypress wood. Today, \\\"cypress\\\" refers to a number of coniferous trees and shrubs in the family family Cupressaceae. Noah may have used Mediterranean cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), a variety of cypress tree native to the Mediterranean and Levant. Whichever type of cypress you use, you'll need enough to build the hull of a ship three hundred cubits long, fifty cubits wide and thirty cubits high in addition to the deck, roof, and flooring below deck.\\nIf, for convenience, we assume a box-shaped Ark and 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, our 300 × 50 × 30 cubit Ark will require at least square feet of cypress wood. The actual amount will likely be more than this, as you'll need to build a hull that's more than one layer thick, as well as a roof and flooring inside the Ark.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a curved wooden hull to fit the dimensions of the bible.\", \"描述\": \"For your ark to be able to float in the tumultuous waters of a world-destroying flood, it will need to be of very sturdy construction. You'll want to build a thick hull with a wide, gently curving cross section that tapers at either end. Add a keel (a vertical \\\"fin\\\" running the length of the bottom of the hull) for added stability. After you've built the main hull, add horizontal and diagonal cross-beams stretching across the inside of the hull to increase the strength of the ark's walls.\\nThe ark is truly a massive undertaking. Assuming 18-inch (45.7 cm) cubits, the hull of your ark should be 450 feet (137.2 m) long, 75 feet (22.9 m) wide, and 45 feet (13.7 m) high. The process of building the hull can be sped up greatly with modern tools and construction methods, but if you're using only ancient tools, it may take months or years!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add flooring inside the ark and a door on the side.\", \"描述\": \"The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah, \\\"Put a door in the side of the ark and make lower, middle and upper decks\\\". Adding multiple decks will allow you to make the most of the vertical space within the ark, storing as many animals as possible, while adding a door to the side of the ark makes it possible for land animals to easily board the ark.\\nThe Bible doesn't specify dimensions for the different decks within the ark, so use your best judgement. You may, for instance, want the bottom deck to be taller than the others to accommodate the biggest animals, like elephants and giraffes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a roof.\", \"描述\": \"A firm, sturdy roof is an important part of your ark. The original world-destroying flood was caused by forty days and forty nights of rain - in the event of a similar situation, it's important to have some way to keep the rain from gathering below deck and sinking your ark! The Bible tells us that God commanded Noah to \\\"Make a roof for [the ark], leaving below the roof an opening one cubit high all around\\\".\\nBe sure to build your roof so that the edges of the roof reach over the edges of the upper deck. You want any rainwater to drain away from the upper deck and into the waters of the flood.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Coat the wood of the hull with pitch.\", \"描述\": \"It's (obviously) extremely important for your ark to be as waterproof as possible. God knew this and commanded Noah to \\\"coat [the ark] with pitch inside and out\\\". Pitch is a thick, viscous, resin not unlike tar that, in ancient times, was used to waterproof boats. Pitch can be made from natural plants (especially pine trees) or from petroleum - naturally, Noah probably used the former.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill your ark with animals.\", \"描述\": \"Congratulations, you've built a modern-day ark based on the original specifications given to Noah by God! Now, all you need to do is find male-female pairs of every major species of bird and land animal to repopulate the Earth after the apocalyptic flood. However, according to the Bible, some animals are more important than others. Consider God's original advice to Noah when gathering animals: \\\"Take with you seven pairs of every kind of clean animal, a male and its mate, and one pair of every kind of unclean animal, a male and its mate, and also seven pairs of every kind of bird, male and female, to keep their various kinds alive throughout the earth\\\".\\n\\\"Clean\\\" and \\\"unclean\\\" refer to ancient Jewish customs governing the suitability of certain types of animals for eating and sacrifice. The distinction between which animals are \\\"clean\\\" and which are \\\"unclean is somewhat complex, but, in general, \\\"clean\\\" animals are:\\nQuadrupeds that chew cud and possess a cloven hoof.\\nFish.\\nMost birds, excluding birds of prey and most waterfowl.\\nA few select types of vermin and insects.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,647 |
How to Build an Auto Chicken Farm in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Place the chest on the ground.
You'll need to be able to access this chest when your automatic farm is complete in order to get your cooked chicken.
1-2. Place a hopper feeding into the chest.
Put the hopper in the space right behind your chest so your inanimate objects can move to it (you may need to press while you click to be able to change the direction the hopper is moving. The command allows you to place blocks on active blocks without opening them).
The hopper will allow the cooked chicken to automatically drop into the chest.
1-3. Place a building block behind the hopper.
You now have a 1x3 grid.
1-4. Place 2 dispensers on top of the building block facing the chest.
This layer is 3 blocks deep so far.
1-5. Place a slab on your hopper.
This block is only half the thickness of a normal block so it can collect items on top of the slab.
1-6. Place a hopper behind the first layer of dispenser.
The space below the newly placed hopper is empty for now.
1-7. Place a carpet over the hopper.
The carpet will prevent the chickens from moving or falling through the hopper.
1-8. Place a building block behind the hopper, on the first layer.
Since the first layer under the hopper is empty, the block will also be on the first layer.
1-9. Place a comparator on top of the building block you just put down.
This doesn't look like it will take up the full block space, but the blank area above it is considered this block.
1-10. Place an observer on top of the comparator.
You now have an empty block between your comparator and the top dispenser on the other column.
1-11. Add glass blocks to either side of the carpet.
The observer and dispenser blocks are covering the front and back of the carpet, so you need to add two blocks of glass to either side of the carpet.
1-12. Cover the rest of the area with building blocks.
Encase the rest of the building with building blocks, but make sure to leave the center block blank so you can put chickens inside it.
Start off with two chickens and let them breed until you get 24 chickens.
1-13. Close the top with another observer block and destroy the top layer of building blocks.
Once you have 24 chickens, place an observer block facing your chest and use an axe to destroy your building blocks.
You should have your 24 chickens in that empty block space with an observer block on top, two glass blocks around the outside, and a dispenser and hopper in front and behind.
1-14. Place redstone dust on the blocks in front and behind the observer block and destroy the rest of your excess building blocks.
This includes the building block next to your dispenser and hopper to the ground level.
1-15. Add glass blocks two-layers high around the hopper.
Make sure you're leaving the area above the hopper empty.
1-16. Add a lava bucket to the dispenser.
Click the dispenser to interact with it and pull up a 3x3 grid. Put the lava in the middle of the grid.
Any eggs your chickens lay will move into the bottom dispenser, which will move them to the other open space where adult chickens will encounter the lava. Those adult chickens will create cooked meat that will drop onto the slab, which will move into your chest via the lowest hopper.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:19",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Place the chest on the ground.\\nYou'll need to be able to access this chest when your automatic farm is complete in order to get your cooked chicken.\\n1-2. Place a hopper feeding into the chest.\\nPut the hopper in the space right behind your chest so your inanimate objects can move to it (you may need to press while you click to be able to change the direction the hopper is moving. The command allows you to place blocks on active blocks without opening them).\\nThe hopper will allow the cooked chicken to automatically drop into the chest.\\n1-3. Place a building block behind the hopper.\\nYou now have a 1x3 grid.\\n1-4. Place 2 dispensers on top of the building block facing the chest.\\nThis layer is 3 blocks deep so far.\\n1-5. Place a slab on your hopper.\\nThis block is only half the thickness of a normal block so it can collect items on top of the slab.\\n1-6. Place a hopper behind the first layer of dispenser.\\nThe space below the newly placed hopper is empty for now.\\n1-7. Place a carpet over the hopper.\\nThe carpet will prevent the chickens from moving or falling through the hopper.\\n1-8. Place a building block behind the hopper, on the first layer.\\nSince the first layer under the hopper is empty, the block will also be on the first layer.\\n1-9. Place a comparator on top of the building block you just put down.\\nThis doesn't look like it will take up the full block space, but the blank area above it is considered this block.\\n1-10. Place an observer on top of the comparator.\\nYou now have an empty block between your comparator and the top dispenser on the other column.\\n1-11. Add glass blocks to either side of the carpet.\\nThe observer and dispenser blocks are covering the front and back of the carpet, so you need to add two blocks of glass to either side of the carpet.\\n1-12. Cover the rest of the area with building blocks.\\nEncase the rest of the building with building blocks, but make sure to leave the center block blank so you can put chickens inside it.\\nStart off with two chickens and let them breed until you get 24 chickens.\\n1-13. Close the top with another observer block and destroy the top layer of building blocks.\\nOnce you have 24 chickens, place an observer block facing your chest and use an axe to destroy your building blocks.\\nYou should have your 24 chickens in that empty block space with an observer block on top, two glass blocks around the outside, and a dispenser and hopper in front and behind.\\n1-14. Place redstone dust on the blocks in front and behind the observer block and destroy the rest of your excess building blocks.\\nThis includes the building block next to your dispenser and hopper to the ground level.\\n1-15. Add glass blocks two-layers high around the hopper.\\nMake sure you're leaving the area above the hopper empty.\\n1-16. Add a lava bucket to the dispenser.\\nClick the dispenser to interact with it and pull up a 3x3 grid. Put the lava in the middle of the grid.\\nAny eggs your chickens lay will move into the bottom dispenser, which will move them to the other open space where adult chickens will encounter the lava. Those adult chickens will create cooked meat that will drop onto the slab, which will move into your chest via the lowest hopper.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building an automatic chicken farm in Minecraft gives you a solid, easy food supply of cooked chicken. To start your farm, you'll need one chest, two dispensers, one carpet block, one slab, two hoppers, eight glass blocks, one bucket of lava, two redstone dust, one comparator, two observers, some building blocks (like cobblestone), some breeding seeds, and some chickens. You'll also need an area where you can build your farm, which is 3 blocks wide, 6 blocks deep, and 5 blocks tall. Illuminate the immediate area with torches, glowstone, or other luminescent items to prevent hostile mobs from spawning in or around your farm. Ready to start building? Follow the tutorial below to build your own automatic chicken farm.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the chest on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need to be able to access this chest when your automatic farm is complete in order to get your cooked chicken.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a hopper feeding into the chest.\", \"描述\": \"Put the hopper in the space right behind your chest so your inanimate objects can move to it (you may need to press while you click to be able to change the direction the hopper is moving. The command allows you to place blocks on active blocks without opening them).\\nThe hopper will allow the cooked chicken to automatically drop into the chest.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a building block behind the hopper.\", \"描述\": \"You now have a 1x3 grid.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place 2 dispensers on top of the building block facing the chest.\", \"描述\": \"This layer is 3 blocks deep so far.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place a slab on your hopper.\", \"描述\": \"This block is only half the thickness of a normal block so it can collect items on top of the slab.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place a hopper behind the first layer of dispenser.\", \"描述\": \"The space below the newly placed hopper is empty for now.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a carpet over the hopper.\", \"描述\": \"The carpet will prevent the chickens from moving or falling through the hopper.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place a building block behind the hopper, on the first layer.\", \"描述\": \"Since the first layer under the hopper is empty, the block will also be on the first layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place a comparator on top of the building block you just put down.\", \"描述\": \"This doesn't look like it will take up the full block space, but the blank area above it is considered this block.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Place an observer on top of the comparator.\", \"描述\": \"You now have an empty block between your comparator and the top dispenser on the other column.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Add glass blocks to either side of the carpet.\", \"描述\": \"The observer and dispenser blocks are covering the front and back of the carpet, so you need to add two blocks of glass to either side of the carpet.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Cover the rest of the area with building blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Encase the rest of the building with building blocks, but make sure to leave the center block blank so you can put chickens inside it.\\nStart off with two chickens and let them breed until you get 24 chickens.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Close the top with another observer block and destroy the top layer of building blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have 24 chickens, place an observer block facing your chest and use an axe to destroy your building blocks.\\nYou should have your 24 chickens in that empty block space with an observer block on top, two glass blocks around the outside, and a dispenser and hopper in front and behind.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Place redstone dust on the blocks in front and behind the observer block and destroy the rest of your excess building blocks.\", \"描述\": \"This includes the building block next to your dispenser and hopper to the ground level.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Add glass blocks two-layers high around the hopper.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you're leaving the area above the hopper empty.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Add a lava bucket to the dispenser.\", \"描述\": \"Click the dispenser to interact with it and pull up a 3x3 grid. Put the lava in the middle of the grid.\\nAny eggs your chickens lay will move into the bottom dispenser, which will move them to the other open space where adult chickens will encounter the lava. Those adult chickens will create cooked meat that will drop onto the slab, which will move into your chest via the lowest hopper.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,648 |
How to Build an Aviary
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1. Calculating Dimensions and Gathering Materials
1-1. Determine the size of your birds.
Before you start your project, you need to know the size of your birds. This will affect how big your aviary will be, as well as the type of wire meshing appropriate for the birds' size.
Small birds are budgies, canaries, doves, finches, and lovebirds.
Medium birds are cockatiels, conures, lories, parrotlets, and quakers.
Large birds are African greys, amazons, caiques, cockatoos, and macaws.
Extra-large birds are Moluccan cockatoos and Hyacinth, Gold, and Scarlet macaws.
1-2. Calculate the aviary’s volume based on the size and number of your birds.
The minimum size of your cage is determined by the size of your bird. All of the dimensions below assume that just 1 bird is in the aviary. As a rule of thumb, multiply the recommended volume for your bird size by 1.5 for every additional bird.
Small birds: Width: 20 inches (51 cm); Depth: 24 inches (61 cm); Height: 24 inches (61 cm); Volume: 11,520 inches (29,300 cm).
Medium birds: Width: 25 inches (64 cm); Depth: 32 inches (81 cm); Height: 35 inches (89 cm); Volume: 28,000 inches (71,000 cm).
Large birds: Width: 35 inches (89 cm): Depth: 40 inches (100 cm): Height: 50 inches (130 cm); Volume: 70,000 inches (180,000 cm).
Extra-large birds: Width: 40 inches (100 cm): Depth: 50 inches (130 cm): Height: 60 inches (150 cm); Volume: 120,000 inches (300,000 cm).
1-3. Determine the appropriate wire mesh spacing and gauge.
The type of wire mesh that goes over your aviary will depend on your birds' size. Always use stainless steel wire mesh and avoid galvanized wires. Galvanizing is commonly used when coating iron or steel with zinc.
Small birds need ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) spacing and 0.0787 inch (2.00 mm) diameter wiring.
Medium birds need ⁄8 to ⁄4 inch (1.6 to 1.9 cm) spacing and 0.100 inch (2.5 mm) diameter wiring.
Large birds need ⁄4 to ⁄2 inch (1.9 to 1.3 cm) spacing and 0.137 inch (3.5 mm) diameter wiring.
Extra-large birds need 1 to 1.25 inch (2.5 to 3.2 cm) spacing and 0.196 inch (0.50 cm) diameter wiring.
1-4. Plan your frame design using a paper and pencil.
To keep things as simple as possible, create your aviary from rectangular frame pieces of identical sizes and connect them together. For example, if you're building an aviary for a small bird, each frame piece is 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Since they require a depth of 24 inches (61 cm), connect the front and back frame piece on each side by 2 additional frame pieces, which makes 6 in total for the entire frame.
Use the same plan formula for all aviary sizes. However, if you have a blueprint of your own, feel free to use it—there are many other complex options. Just remember they will likely be difficult if it's your first time building one.
1-5. Purchase the necessary materials from a home hardware store.
In terms of the frame pieces, use four 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) pieces of an acceptable wood for each one. The exact length will depend on the dimensions of your aviary but always buy a bit extra in case. For screws, you need 8 exterior grade 4 inch (10 cm) screws for each frame piece.
Consider an aviary for small birds that uses 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm). Since each frame piece is 4 pieces of wood, you need 24 pieces of wood (6 x 4) in total—twelve 24 inch (61 cm) pieces and twelve 20 inch (51 cm) pieces.
If you don't want to cut your wood to size yourself, provide your aviary dimensions to a staff member at the home hardware store to help you.
For wood, use maple, pine, almond, bamboo, or eucalyptus. Avoid anything poisonous to birds, such as juniper, yew, and redwood.
2. Building the Frame
2-1. Cut your 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the necessary size.
If you didn't have a professional cut your wood, use a circular saw to cut them to size. Mark of the end to be cut with a pencil and ruler. Afterward, pull the trigger on the rear handle of the saw and use your dominant hand to guide it across your wood while holding it firmly with your non-dominant hand.
Always apply downward pressure to the wood with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood steady.
2-2. Lay down your wood pieces into the rectangular shape of each frame.
Find a flat, open surface—such as a garage floor—and lay down 4 pieces of 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood into their frame shapes. Make sure the width pieces connect the length pieces vertically rather than horizontally. Now is the time to take note of any imperfections (such as a piece that's too long) and adjust them. Be sure you have enough frame pieces for your aviary plan and make sure each pair of height and width pieces are parallel to each other.
For a frame piece with a width of 20 inches (51 cm) and a height of 24 inches (61 cm), start by laying down the left and right length pieces. Afterward, connect them via the top and bottom width pieces.
Don't attach your wood pieces before laying them into their frame positions first.
2-3. Attach each wood piece together into frames using plumber's tape and nails.
Use a pair of tin snips to cut four 2 inch (5.1 cm) long pieces of plumber's tape for each wood piece of the frame. Align each one horizontally at the top and bottom corners of the length pieces and across to the width pieces. Now, drill two 1 inch (2.5 cm) screws through piece of tape each to fasten them into place to create an assembled frame piece.
Make sure 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each piece of plumber's tape is attached to each piece of wood.
You can swap plumber's tape with corner connectors and drill them in using screws. However, this is more expensive and time-consuming.
3. Attaching the Wire Mesh
3-1. Align your assembled frame pieces flat on the floor beside each other.
If you're building an aviary for small birds, you have 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Lay them onto a flat surface horizontally next to each other to prepare for attachment.
Make sure the height and width of each assembled frame piece are straight and parallel to the height and width of the other frames pieces.
3-2. Connect each assembled frame piece using eight 4 inch (10 cm) screws.
After attaching the assembled frame pieces using plumber's tape, connect them to each other using 4 screws applied left and right from the corners of the top length pieces—2 on each side parallel to the plumber's tape—and the same amount through the bottom corners of the length pieces. Keep each pair 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) apart from the other, and the screw closest to the perimeter the same length from it.
Double-check the alignment of your frame and adjust it as necessary before drilling in the screws. For example, if the top-right corner of a frame piece is a bit crooked, remove the plumber's tape, realign it, and fasten it again.
3-3. Cut your wire mesh to size using tin snips.
Make sure that each side of the aviary except the bottom has a corresponding wire piece. For example, an aviary for small birds made from 6 frame pieces will need six pieces of mesh at least 24 by 20 inches (61 cm × 51 cm) in size.
Leave 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of extra wire mesh in case you make a mistake.
3-4. Attach the wire mesh using a staple gun.
Use a staple gun along the entire perimeter of each rectangular frame piece. Space each staple out by about 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm).
If you make a mistake, remove the staple with a flathead screwdriver or office-style staple remover.
3-5. Cut an opening into the front side of the cage's wire mesh for a door.
Use your wire cutters to cut a door opening large enough to fit through—about 84 inches (210 cm) should do. Now, measure the opening and cut a piece of wire mesh slightly larger.
Remember that you're going to be entering the cage to clean, so always give yourself more room rather than less.
3-6. Attach the door to the cage using electrical ties or cage clips.
Hold the door over the opening in the wire mesh, taking care to make sure the extra mesh is equal on all sides of the door. Now, wrap electrical ties or cage clips around the perimeter of the door and use them to fasten it to the cage.
Fasten the ties or clips tight enough that there are no openings between the door and cage that your birds can escape from.
3-7. Create a floor for outdoor aviaries.
Although you can create a concrete base for your aviary, this requires much more work and is only recommended for larger outdoor aviaries that require a strong foundation. For standard outdoor aviaries, attach a wire mesh to the bottom using a staple gun. Afterward, place gravel or sand on top of it.
Don't skip the floor for outdoor aviaries, especially if there are predators in your area.
Warnings
Check local housing association codes and local laws for outdoor aviaries.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Calculating Dimensions and Gathering Materials\\n1-1. Determine the size of your birds.\\nBefore you start your project, you need to know the size of your birds. This will affect how big your aviary will be, as well as the type of wire meshing appropriate for the birds' size.\\nSmall birds are budgies, canaries, doves, finches, and lovebirds.\\nMedium birds are cockatiels, conures, lories, parrotlets, and quakers.\\nLarge birds are African greys, amazons, caiques, cockatoos, and macaws.\\nExtra-large birds are Moluccan cockatoos and Hyacinth, Gold, and Scarlet macaws.\\n1-2. Calculate the aviary’s volume based on the size and number of your birds.\\nThe minimum size of your cage is determined by the size of your bird. All of the dimensions below assume that just 1 bird is in the aviary. As a rule of thumb, multiply the recommended volume for your bird size by 1.5 for every additional bird.\\nSmall birds: Width: 20 inches (51 cm); Depth: 24 inches (61 cm); Height: 24 inches (61 cm); Volume: 11,520 inches (29,300 cm).\\nMedium birds: Width: 25 inches (64 cm); Depth: 32 inches (81 cm); Height: 35 inches (89 cm); Volume: 28,000 inches (71,000 cm).\\nLarge birds: Width: 35 inches (89 cm): Depth: 40 inches (100 cm): Height: 50 inches (130 cm); Volume: 70,000 inches (180,000 cm).\\nExtra-large birds: Width: 40 inches (100 cm): Depth: 50 inches (130 cm): Height: 60 inches (150 cm); Volume: 120,000 inches (300,000 cm).\\n1-3. Determine the appropriate wire mesh spacing and gauge.\\nThe type of wire mesh that goes over your aviary will depend on your birds' size. Always use stainless steel wire mesh and avoid galvanized wires. Galvanizing is commonly used when coating iron or steel with zinc.\\nSmall birds need ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) spacing and 0.0787 inch (2.00 mm) diameter wiring.\\nMedium birds need ⁄8 to ⁄4 inch (1.6 to 1.9 cm) spacing and 0.100 inch (2.5 mm) diameter wiring.\\nLarge birds need ⁄4 to ⁄2 inch (1.9 to 1.3 cm) spacing and 0.137 inch (3.5 mm) diameter wiring.\\nExtra-large birds need 1 to 1.25 inch (2.5 to 3.2 cm) spacing and 0.196 inch (0.50 cm) diameter wiring.\\n1-4. Plan your frame design using a paper and pencil.\\nTo keep things as simple as possible, create your aviary from rectangular frame pieces of identical sizes and connect them together. For example, if you're building an aviary for a small bird, each frame piece is 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Since they require a depth of 24 inches (61 cm), connect the front and back frame piece on each side by 2 additional frame pieces, which makes 6 in total for the entire frame.\\nUse the same plan formula for all aviary sizes. However, if you have a blueprint of your own, feel free to use it—there are many other complex options. Just remember they will likely be difficult if it's your first time building one.\\n1-5. Purchase the necessary materials from a home hardware store.\\nIn terms of the frame pieces, use four 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) pieces of an acceptable wood for each one. The exact length will depend on the dimensions of your aviary but always buy a bit extra in case. For screws, you need 8 exterior grade 4 inch (10 cm) screws for each frame piece.\\nConsider an aviary for small birds that uses 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm). Since each frame piece is 4 pieces of wood, you need 24 pieces of wood (6 x 4) in total—twelve 24 inch (61 cm) pieces and twelve 20 inch (51 cm) pieces.\\nIf you don't want to cut your wood to size yourself, provide your aviary dimensions to a staff member at the home hardware store to help you.\\nFor wood, use maple, pine, almond, bamboo, or eucalyptus. Avoid anything poisonous to birds, such as juniper, yew, and redwood.\\n2. Building the Frame\\n2-1. Cut your 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the necessary size.\\nIf you didn't have a professional cut your wood, use a circular saw to cut them to size. Mark of the end to be cut with a pencil and ruler. Afterward, pull the trigger on the rear handle of the saw and use your dominant hand to guide it across your wood while holding it firmly with your non-dominant hand.\\nAlways apply downward pressure to the wood with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood steady.\\n2-2. Lay down your wood pieces into the rectangular shape of each frame.\\nFind a flat, open surface—such as a garage floor—and lay down 4 pieces of 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood into their frame shapes. Make sure the width pieces connect the length pieces vertically rather than horizontally. Now is the time to take note of any imperfections (such as a piece that's too long) and adjust them. Be sure you have enough frame pieces for your aviary plan and make sure each pair of height and width pieces are parallel to each other.\\nFor a frame piece with a width of 20 inches (51 cm) and a height of 24 inches (61 cm), start by laying down the left and right length pieces. Afterward, connect them via the top and bottom width pieces.\\nDon't attach your wood pieces before laying them into their frame positions first.\\n2-3. Attach each wood piece together into frames using plumber's tape and nails.\\nUse a pair of tin snips to cut four 2 inch (5.1 cm) long pieces of plumber's tape for each wood piece of the frame. Align each one horizontally at the top and bottom corners of the length pieces and across to the width pieces. Now, drill two 1 inch (2.5 cm) screws through piece of tape each to fasten them into place to create an assembled frame piece.\\nMake sure 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each piece of plumber's tape is attached to each piece of wood.\\nYou can swap plumber's tape with corner connectors and drill them in using screws. However, this is more expensive and time-consuming.\\n3. Attaching the Wire Mesh\\n3-1. Align your assembled frame pieces flat on the floor beside each other.\\nIf you're building an aviary for small birds, you have 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Lay them onto a flat surface horizontally next to each other to prepare for attachment.\\nMake sure the height and width of each assembled frame piece are straight and parallel to the height and width of the other frames pieces.\\n3-2. Connect each assembled frame piece using eight 4 inch (10 cm) screws.\\nAfter attaching the assembled frame pieces using plumber's tape, connect them to each other using 4 screws applied left and right from the corners of the top length pieces—2 on each side parallel to the plumber's tape—and the same amount through the bottom corners of the length pieces. Keep each pair 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) apart from the other, and the screw closest to the perimeter the same length from it.\\nDouble-check the alignment of your frame and adjust it as necessary before drilling in the screws. For example, if the top-right corner of a frame piece is a bit crooked, remove the plumber's tape, realign it, and fasten it again.\\n3-3. Cut your wire mesh to size using tin snips.\\nMake sure that each side of the aviary except the bottom has a corresponding wire piece. For example, an aviary for small birds made from 6 frame pieces will need six pieces of mesh at least 24 by 20 inches (61 cm × 51 cm) in size.\\nLeave 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of extra wire mesh in case you make a mistake.\\n3-4. Attach the wire mesh using a staple gun.\\nUse a staple gun along the entire perimeter of each rectangular frame piece. Space each staple out by about 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm).\\nIf you make a mistake, remove the staple with a flathead screwdriver or office-style staple remover.\\n3-5. Cut an opening into the front side of the cage's wire mesh for a door.\\nUse your wire cutters to cut a door opening large enough to fit through—about 84 inches (210 cm) should do. Now, measure the opening and cut a piece of wire mesh slightly larger.\\nRemember that you're going to be entering the cage to clean, so always give yourself more room rather than less.\\n3-6. Attach the door to the cage using electrical ties or cage clips.\\nHold the door over the opening in the wire mesh, taking care to make sure the extra mesh is equal on all sides of the door. Now, wrap electrical ties or cage clips around the perimeter of the door and use them to fasten it to the cage.\\nFasten the ties or clips tight enough that there are no openings between the door and cage that your birds can escape from.\\n3-7. Create a floor for outdoor aviaries.\\nAlthough you can create a concrete base for your aviary, this requires much more work and is only recommended for larger outdoor aviaries that require a strong foundation. For standard outdoor aviaries, attach a wire mesh to the bottom using a staple gun. Afterward, place gravel or sand on top of it.\\nDon't skip the floor for outdoor aviaries, especially if there are predators in your area.\\nWarnings\\nCheck local housing association codes and local laws for outdoor aviaries.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want to increase your bird's quality of life, an aviary might be just what it needs! Aviary cages are much larger than normal bird cages and can be placed both indoors and outdoors. With a bit of planning and some effort, you can create a nice aviary for your birds that will keep them both happy and safe at all times.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Calculating Dimensions and Gathering Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of your birds.\", \"描述\": \"Before you start your project, you need to know the size of your birds. This will affect how big your aviary will be, as well as the type of wire meshing appropriate for the birds' size.\\nSmall birds are budgies, canaries, doves, finches, and lovebirds.\\nMedium birds are cockatiels, conures, lories, parrotlets, and quakers.\\nLarge birds are African greys, amazons, caiques, cockatoos, and macaws.\\nExtra-large birds are Moluccan cockatoos and Hyacinth, Gold, and Scarlet macaws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate the aviary’s volume based on the size and number of your birds.\", \"描述\": \"The minimum size of your cage is determined by the size of your bird. All of the dimensions below assume that just 1 bird is in the aviary. As a rule of thumb, multiply the recommended volume for your bird size by 1.5 for every additional bird.\\nSmall birds: Width: 20 inches (51 cm); Depth: 24 inches (61 cm); Height: 24 inches (61 cm); Volume: 11,520 inches (29,300 cm).\\nMedium birds: Width: 25 inches (64 cm); Depth: 32 inches (81 cm); Height: 35 inches (89 cm); Volume: 28,000 inches (71,000 cm).\\nLarge birds: Width: 35 inches (89 cm): Depth: 40 inches (100 cm): Height: 50 inches (130 cm); Volume: 70,000 inches (180,000 cm).\\nExtra-large birds: Width: 40 inches (100 cm): Depth: 50 inches (130 cm): Height: 60 inches (150 cm); Volume: 120,000 inches (300,000 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the appropriate wire mesh spacing and gauge.\", \"描述\": \"The type of wire mesh that goes over your aviary will depend on your birds' size. Always use stainless steel wire mesh and avoid galvanized wires. Galvanizing is commonly used when coating iron or steel with zinc.\\nSmall birds need ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) spacing and 0.0787 inch (2.00 mm) diameter wiring.\\nMedium birds need ⁄8 to ⁄4 inch (1.6 to 1.9 cm) spacing and 0.100 inch (2.5 mm) diameter wiring.\\nLarge birds need ⁄4 to ⁄2 inch (1.9 to 1.3 cm) spacing and 0.137 inch (3.5 mm) diameter wiring.\\nExtra-large birds need 1 to 1.25 inch (2.5 to 3.2 cm) spacing and 0.196 inch (0.50 cm) diameter wiring.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plan your frame design using a paper and pencil.\", \"描述\": \"To keep things as simple as possible, create your aviary from rectangular frame pieces of identical sizes and connect them together. For example, if you're building an aviary for a small bird, each frame piece is 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Since they require a depth of 24 inches (61 cm), connect the front and back frame piece on each side by 2 additional frame pieces, which makes 6 in total for the entire frame.\\nUse the same plan formula for all aviary sizes. However, if you have a blueprint of your own, feel free to use it—there are many other complex options. Just remember they will likely be difficult if it's your first time building one.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase the necessary materials from a home hardware store.\", \"描述\": \"In terms of the frame pieces, use four 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) pieces of an acceptable wood for each one. The exact length will depend on the dimensions of your aviary but always buy a bit extra in case. For screws, you need 8 exterior grade 4 inch (10 cm) screws for each frame piece.\\nConsider an aviary for small birds that uses 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm). Since each frame piece is 4 pieces of wood, you need 24 pieces of wood (6 x 4) in total—twelve 24 inch (61 cm) pieces and twelve 20 inch (51 cm) pieces.\\nIf you don't want to cut your wood to size yourself, provide your aviary dimensions to a staff member at the home hardware store to help you.\\nFor wood, use maple, pine, almond, bamboo, or eucalyptus. Avoid anything poisonous to birds, such as juniper, yew, and redwood.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood pieces to the necessary size.\", \"描述\": \"If you didn't have a professional cut your wood, use a circular saw to cut them to size. Mark of the end to be cut with a pencil and ruler. Afterward, pull the trigger on the rear handle of the saw and use your dominant hand to guide it across your wood while holding it firmly with your non-dominant hand.\\nAlways apply downward pressure to the wood with your non-dominant hand to keep the wood steady.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay down your wood pieces into the rectangular shape of each frame.\", \"描述\": \"Find a flat, open surface—such as a garage floor—and lay down 4 pieces of 2 by 2 inch (5.1 cm × 5.1 cm) wood into their frame shapes. Make sure the width pieces connect the length pieces vertically rather than horizontally. Now is the time to take note of any imperfections (such as a piece that's too long) and adjust them. Be sure you have enough frame pieces for your aviary plan and make sure each pair of height and width pieces are parallel to each other.\\nFor a frame piece with a width of 20 inches (51 cm) and a height of 24 inches (61 cm), start by laying down the left and right length pieces. Afterward, connect them via the top and bottom width pieces.\\nDon't attach your wood pieces before laying them into their frame positions first.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach each wood piece together into frames using plumber's tape and nails.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pair of tin snips to cut four 2 inch (5.1 cm) long pieces of plumber's tape for each wood piece of the frame. Align each one horizontally at the top and bottom corners of the length pieces and across to the width pieces. Now, drill two 1 inch (2.5 cm) screws through piece of tape each to fasten them into place to create an assembled frame piece.\\nMake sure 1 inch (2.5 cm) of each piece of plumber's tape is attached to each piece of wood.\\nYou can swap plumber's tape with corner connectors and drill them in using screws. However, this is more expensive and time-consuming.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Wire Mesh\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Align your assembled frame pieces flat on the floor beside each other.\", \"描述\": \"If you're building an aviary for small birds, you have 6 frame pieces 24 inches (61 cm) in height and 20 inches (51 cm) in width. Lay them onto a flat surface horizontally next to each other to prepare for attachment.\\nMake sure the height and width of each assembled frame piece are straight and parallel to the height and width of the other frames pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect each assembled frame piece using eight 4 inch (10 cm) screws.\", \"描述\": \"After attaching the assembled frame pieces using plumber's tape, connect them to each other using 4 screws applied left and right from the corners of the top length pieces—2 on each side parallel to the plumber's tape—and the same amount through the bottom corners of the length pieces. Keep each pair 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) apart from the other, and the screw closest to the perimeter the same length from it.\\nDouble-check the alignment of your frame and adjust it as necessary before drilling in the screws. For example, if the top-right corner of a frame piece is a bit crooked, remove the plumber's tape, realign it, and fasten it again.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your wire mesh to size using tin snips.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that each side of the aviary except the bottom has a corresponding wire piece. For example, an aviary for small birds made from 6 frame pieces will need six pieces of mesh at least 24 by 20 inches (61 cm × 51 cm) in size.\\nLeave 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of extra wire mesh in case you make a mistake.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the wire mesh using a staple gun.\", \"描述\": \"Use a staple gun along the entire perimeter of each rectangular frame piece. Space each staple out by about 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm).\\nIf you make a mistake, remove the staple with a flathead screwdriver or office-style staple remover.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut an opening into the front side of the cage's wire mesh for a door.\", \"描述\": \"Use your wire cutters to cut a door opening large enough to fit through—about 84 inches (210 cm) should do. Now, measure the opening and cut a piece of wire mesh slightly larger.\\nRemember that you're going to be entering the cage to clean, so always give yourself more room rather than less.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the door to the cage using electrical ties or cage clips.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the door over the opening in the wire mesh, taking care to make sure the extra mesh is equal on all sides of the door. Now, wrap electrical ties or cage clips around the perimeter of the door and use them to fasten it to the cage.\\nFasten the ties or clips tight enough that there are no openings between the door and cage that your birds can escape from.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a floor for outdoor aviaries.\", \"描述\": \"Although you can create a concrete base for your aviary, this requires much more work and is only recommended for larger outdoor aviaries that require a strong foundation. For standard outdoor aviaries, attach a wire mesh to the bottom using a staple gun. Afterward, place gravel or sand on top of it.\\nDon't skip the floor for outdoor aviaries, especially if there are predators in your area.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Check local housing association codes and local laws for outdoor aviaries.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,649 |
How to Build an EMP Generator
|
1. Assembling the Supplies
1-1. Understand the EMP.
You are not going to be able to create the type of EMP you saw in the Matrix or Ocean’s 11. This type of Electromagnetic Pulse Generator works best for small electronics.
1-2. Gather your supplies.
For this EMP you are going to take the circuit board and capacitor out of a disposable camera. Other supplies you’ll need are a:
Soldering iron
Enamel coated wire
On/off switch
Scotch tape
Flat head screwdriver
Pliers
Core wire
Wire strippers
Sandpaper
A circular object about two inches in diameter.
1-3. Practice safety.
You are dealing with high voltage equipment and could get shocked. When removing the capacitor in particular, be cautious. It’s also recommended to use a multimeter to gauge the voltage and a battery holder.
A multimeter is a tool that measures the electric voltage of a circuit. You don’t need one, but it will tell you the voltage of your capacitor.
2. Isolating a Camera's Circuit Board
2-1. Obtain a disposable camera.
It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a cheap point and shoot you can pick up at any convenient store. Make sure the film is all used up before taking apart the camera.
2-2. Open the case.
Using the flat edge of a screwdriver, carefully pry the camera apart. Be careful not to touch the printed circuit board or any metal parts inside.
2-3. Slip on a pair of rubber gloves.
You'll be dealing with the potential of getting a painful shock if you accidentally touch the flash capacitor, which carries about 300 volts.
2-4. Locate the capacitor.
It is commonly a black cylindrical item, with two leads coming out of the bottom.
2-5. Discharge the capacitor.
Use an instrument with an insulated end to avoid getting shocked. An insulated tool has a rubber grip that prevents an electric current from shocking you. Slide your screwdriver’s tip against one of the sealants by the flash to discharge the capacitor. You should hear a quick pop followed by a small spray of sparks.
Once the initial spark has sparked, you shouldn’t need to redo this. As you remove the board, continue checking the soldered sealants on the circuit board by the capacitor.
You do not need to slide the screwdriver’s tip hard. Don’t damage the rest of the circuit board checking for active energy.
2-6. Remove the board and capacitor.
After carefully taking apart your disposable camera, remove the board and capacitor. Mark on the battery holder, which side is positive and negative with a marker. You’ll be able to tell because there should already be a battery in the machine.
Remove the battery from the device before continuing.
3. Creating the EMP Generator
3-1. Prepare your wire.
Locate your wire and cut it to the desired length. You don’t want too much slack, so try anywhere from 3 inches to a foot. This wire will connect the switch to the capacitor. You’ll also need to strip the wire from the rubber casing.
3-2. Solder the wire.
Solder the wire to one of the two terminals of the capacitor. Use a quality soldering gun to avoid a messy circuit board. Solder a blob of lead free rosin core to the surface. Then heat the wire to the blob with your soldering gun. It should dry shortly to create a firm connection.
3-3. Attach to the switch.
Take the wire you just soldered to the capacitor and attach it to the “off” side of the switch. You might need to solder the wire onto the switch, but most switches you buy have screwable ports for wires.
3-4. Prepare your coil.
Wrap a strip of tape around your circular object with the adhesive side facing outward until it overlaps. Now take the enamel coated wire and wrap it 7-15 times. Leave some wire out to attach to the terminals. Don’t overlap any of the coil. Take time and be precise. Make sure the wire is snug and that there aren’t any spatial gaps.
Coat the finished wiring with tape so it’s secure.
Slide the windings off the object.
Cut the terminals of the coils to the desired length, but make sure you leave yourself enough room to work with.
3-5. Remove the enameled coat.
Using sandpaper, file down the tips of the wire to remove the enamel coat. This will create a stronger bond between the components.
3-6. Solder the coil to the capacitor.
Attach a strand of coil to the other terminal of the capacitor. Use care and don’t create a mess.
Solder onto the opposite side of the switch.
3-7. Attach the coil to the switch.
Connect one of the leads of the coil to the other “on” terminal of the switch.
3-8. Fire when ready.
Make sure your battery for the device is charged and in place. Test the device on a handheld video game. Newer models might not work. Insert the electronic device into the circular coil and flip the switch.
Tips
Feeling adventurous? De-solder the trigger transformer and xenon flash tube from the PCB, and store or discard them as you wish. Alternatively isolate the section of PCB with the charger circuit and cut the rest off.
Warnings
Do not operate near medical equipment or computer equipment. Do not use this if you wear a pacemaker.
May damage RFID systems or tags.
It is illegal to use this for destruction of property or disruption of services (UK and some other countries).
Working with high voltages can be, and is very dangerous. Always use the correct safety equipment and procedures to prevent harm to property or beings.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Supplies\\n1-1. Understand the EMP.\\nYou are not going to be able to create the type of EMP you saw in the Matrix or Ocean’s 11. This type of Electromagnetic Pulse Generator works best for small electronics.\\n1-2. Gather your supplies.\\nFor this EMP you are going to take the circuit board and capacitor out of a disposable camera. Other supplies you’ll need are a:\\nSoldering iron\\nEnamel coated wire\\nOn/off switch\\nScotch tape\\nFlat head screwdriver\\nPliers\\nCore wire\\nWire strippers\\nSandpaper\\nA circular object about two inches in diameter.\\n1-3. Practice safety.\\nYou are dealing with high voltage equipment and could get shocked. When removing the capacitor in particular, be cautious. It’s also recommended to use a multimeter to gauge the voltage and a battery holder.\\nA multimeter is a tool that measures the electric voltage of a circuit. You don’t need one, but it will tell you the voltage of your capacitor.\\n2. Isolating a Camera's Circuit Board\\n2-1. Obtain a disposable camera.\\nIt doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a cheap point and shoot you can pick up at any convenient store. Make sure the film is all used up before taking apart the camera.\\n2-2. Open the case.\\nUsing the flat edge of a screwdriver, carefully pry the camera apart. Be careful not to touch the printed circuit board or any metal parts inside.\\n2-3. Slip on a pair of rubber gloves.\\nYou'll be dealing with the potential of getting a painful shock if you accidentally touch the flash capacitor, which carries about 300 volts.\\n2-4. Locate the capacitor.\\nIt is commonly a black cylindrical item, with two leads coming out of the bottom.\\n2-5. Discharge the capacitor.\\nUse an instrument with an insulated end to avoid getting shocked. An insulated tool has a rubber grip that prevents an electric current from shocking you. Slide your screwdriver’s tip against one of the sealants by the flash to discharge the capacitor. You should hear a quick pop followed by a small spray of sparks.\\nOnce the initial spark has sparked, you shouldn’t need to redo this. As you remove the board, continue checking the soldered sealants on the circuit board by the capacitor.\\nYou do not need to slide the screwdriver’s tip hard. Don’t damage the rest of the circuit board checking for active energy.\\n2-6. Remove the board and capacitor.\\nAfter carefully taking apart your disposable camera, remove the board and capacitor. Mark on the battery holder, which side is positive and negative with a marker. You’ll be able to tell because there should already be a battery in the machine.\\nRemove the battery from the device before continuing.\\n3. Creating the EMP Generator\\n3-1. Prepare your wire.\\nLocate your wire and cut it to the desired length. You don’t want too much slack, so try anywhere from 3 inches to a foot. This wire will connect the switch to the capacitor. You’ll also need to strip the wire from the rubber casing.\\n3-2. Solder the wire.\\nSolder the wire to one of the two terminals of the capacitor. Use a quality soldering gun to avoid a messy circuit board. Solder a blob of lead free rosin core to the surface. Then heat the wire to the blob with your soldering gun. It should dry shortly to create a firm connection.\\n3-3. Attach to the switch.\\nTake the wire you just soldered to the capacitor and attach it to the “off” side of the switch. You might need to solder the wire onto the switch, but most switches you buy have screwable ports for wires.\\n3-4. Prepare your coil.\\nWrap a strip of tape around your circular object with the adhesive side facing outward until it overlaps. Now take the enamel coated wire and wrap it 7-15 times. Leave some wire out to attach to the terminals. Don’t overlap any of the coil. Take time and be precise. Make sure the wire is snug and that there aren’t any spatial gaps.\\nCoat the finished wiring with tape so it’s secure.\\nSlide the windings off the object.\\nCut the terminals of the coils to the desired length, but make sure you leave yourself enough room to work with.\\n3-5. Remove the enameled coat.\\nUsing sandpaper, file down the tips of the wire to remove the enamel coat. This will create a stronger bond between the components.\\n3-6. Solder the coil to the capacitor.\\nAttach a strand of coil to the other terminal of the capacitor. Use care and don’t create a mess.\\nSolder onto the opposite side of the switch.\\n3-7. Attach the coil to the switch.\\nConnect one of the leads of the coil to the other “on” terminal of the switch.\\n3-8. Fire when ready.\\nMake sure your battery for the device is charged and in place. Test the device on a handheld video game. Newer models might not work. Insert the electronic device into the circular coil and flip the switch.\\nTips\\nFeeling adventurous? De-solder the trigger transformer and xenon flash tube from the PCB, and store or discard them as you wish. Alternatively isolate the section of PCB with the charger circuit and cut the rest off.\\nWarnings\\nDo not operate near medical equipment or computer equipment. Do not use this if you wear a pacemaker.\\nMay damage RFID systems or tags.\\nIt is illegal to use this for destruction of property or disruption of services (UK and some other countries).\\nWorking with high voltages can be, and is very dangerous. Always use the correct safety equipment and procedures to prevent harm to property or beings.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A favorite device for science fiction and action movie writers is the EMP generator. An EMP (or electromagnetic pulse) has the power to knock out all electronic devices within its range. Be careful because this could be dangerous. Supervise your kids if they want to try their hands at this.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the EMP.\", \"描述\": \"You are not going to be able to create the type of EMP you saw in the Matrix or Ocean’s 11. This type of Electromagnetic Pulse Generator works best for small electronics.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"For this EMP you are going to take the circuit board and capacitor out of a disposable camera. Other supplies you’ll need are a:\\nSoldering iron\\nEnamel coated wire\\nOn/off switch\\nScotch tape\\nFlat head screwdriver\\nPliers\\nCore wire\\nWire strippers\\nSandpaper\\nA circular object about two inches in diameter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Practice safety.\", \"描述\": \"You are dealing with high voltage equipment and could get shocked. When removing the capacitor in particular, be cautious. It’s also recommended to use a multimeter to gauge the voltage and a battery holder.\\nA multimeter is a tool that measures the electric voltage of a circuit. You don’t need one, but it will tell you the voltage of your capacitor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Isolating a Camera's Circuit Board\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a disposable camera.\", \"描述\": \"It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a cheap point and shoot you can pick up at any convenient store. Make sure the film is all used up before taking apart the camera.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open the case.\", \"描述\": \"Using the flat edge of a screwdriver, carefully pry the camera apart. Be careful not to touch the printed circuit board or any metal parts inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slip on a pair of rubber gloves.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be dealing with the potential of getting a painful shock if you accidentally touch the flash capacitor, which carries about 300 volts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Locate the capacitor.\", \"描述\": \"It is commonly a black cylindrical item, with two leads coming out of the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Discharge the capacitor.\", \"描述\": \"Use an instrument with an insulated end to avoid getting shocked. An insulated tool has a rubber grip that prevents an electric current from shocking you. Slide your screwdriver’s tip against one of the sealants by the flash to discharge the capacitor. You should hear a quick pop followed by a small spray of sparks.\\nOnce the initial spark has sparked, you shouldn’t need to redo this. As you remove the board, continue checking the soldered sealants on the circuit board by the capacitor.\\nYou do not need to slide the screwdriver’s tip hard. Don’t damage the rest of the circuit board checking for active energy.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove the board and capacitor.\", \"描述\": \"After carefully taking apart your disposable camera, remove the board and capacitor. Mark on the battery holder, which side is positive and negative with a marker. You’ll be able to tell because there should already be a battery in the machine.\\nRemove the battery from the device before continuing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating the EMP Generator\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare your wire.\", \"描述\": \"Locate your wire and cut it to the desired length. You don’t want too much slack, so try anywhere from 3 inches to a foot. This wire will connect the switch to the capacitor. You’ll also need to strip the wire from the rubber casing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Solder the wire.\", \"描述\": \"Solder the wire to one of the two terminals of the capacitor. Use a quality soldering gun to avoid a messy circuit board. Solder a blob of lead free rosin core to the surface. Then heat the wire to the blob with your soldering gun. It should dry shortly to create a firm connection.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach to the switch.\", \"描述\": \"Take the wire you just soldered to the capacitor and attach it to the “off” side of the switch. You might need to solder the wire onto the switch, but most switches you buy have screwable ports for wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare your coil.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap a strip of tape around your circular object with the adhesive side facing outward until it overlaps. Now take the enamel coated wire and wrap it 7-15 times. Leave some wire out to attach to the terminals. Don’t overlap any of the coil. Take time and be precise. Make sure the wire is snug and that there aren’t any spatial gaps.\\nCoat the finished wiring with tape so it’s secure.\\nSlide the windings off the object.\\nCut the terminals of the coils to the desired length, but make sure you leave yourself enough room to work with.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the enameled coat.\", \"描述\": \"Using sandpaper, file down the tips of the wire to remove the enamel coat. This will create a stronger bond between the components.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Solder the coil to the capacitor.\", \"描述\": \"Attach a strand of coil to the other terminal of the capacitor. Use care and don’t create a mess.\\nSolder onto the opposite side of the switch.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the coil to the switch.\", \"描述\": \"Connect one of the leads of the coil to the other “on” terminal of the switch.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fire when ready.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure your battery for the device is charged and in place. Test the device on a handheld video game. Newer models might not work. Insert the electronic device into the circular coil and flip the switch.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Feeling adventurous? De-solder the trigger transformer and xenon flash tube from the PCB, and store or discard them as you wish. Alternatively isolate the section of PCB with the charger circuit and cut the rest off.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not operate near medical equipment or computer equipment. Do not use this if you wear a pacemaker.\\n\", \"May damage RFID systems or tags.\\n\", \"It is illegal to use this for destruction of property or disruption of services (UK and some other countries).\\n\", \"Working with high voltages can be, and is very dangerous. Always use the correct safety equipment and procedures to prevent harm to property or beings.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,650 |
How to Build an Easy Woven Stick Fort
|
1. Building the frame for the fort
1-1. Go to the general area you want your fort.
This can be your backyard, a forested area, or really any place you want it.
1-2. Look around for big boulders, thick fallen trees, a stream, and/or open space.
These will be useful in building your fort.
1-3. Mark out the space you want your fort.
It can be as big as you want. Start clearing away debris like leaves, grass, and sticks.
1-4. Gather long sticks that are 6 to 12 inches taller than as tall as you want your fort to be.
They don't have to be huge, in fact, skinny branches about as wide as a half dollar coin work very well.
1-5. Make a hole in the ground as wide as your sticks and 5 to 12 inches deep around the edge of where you want your fort.
Do this about every 6 inches. These will be the walls, so keep in mind that the boulders and fallen trees can act as walls for your fort, too. Use those when you can.
1-6. Insert the sticks into the holes and make sure they stay upright on their own.
Keep a space clear for the door.
1-7. If the sticks do not stay upright, dig the holes deeper and make sure the thicker end is at the bottom.
1-8. Gather more sticks of any width.
These should be a minimum length of 15 inches (38.1 cm).
1-9. Start the bottom of the upright sticks by the door.
Place a 3 foot long stick with a similar width to the upright ones. Weave it in and out of the upright sticks. Do this the whole length of your fort. In, out, in, out, in, out, in, out, making sure you alternate.
Most sticks will only go in and out of two sticks, so don't force them, or they will break. Try to keep from having two consecutive layers of sticks both facing in or out.
1-10. Keep layering your sticks until you have created a solid wall all the way up.
It should resemble a bird's nest.
2. Making the insulation
2-1. Ok.
You have your walls and frame. Now, you want your insulation.
2-2. Gather leaves, grass, sod, moss, or any plant that you can stuff into the frame.
Pine straw insulates well, and it is very common in eastern coastal America (Florida - Maine.) Stuff it very tightly. Remember that these will eventually dry out and become thinner, so keep a little extra on hand.
2-3. Once you have your basic leaves and moss and grass shoved into the frame, consider covering weak parts of your insulation with mud.
This will stop anyone from peeking inside, stop extreme temperatures from getting in, and also provides a more professional look to the overall finish.
2-4. If you do decide on mud, get a bucket like the kind you use to make sand castles at the beach or wash your car with.
Fill it halfway with water (this is why it is handy to have a stream nearby). Fill the rest with dirt and a few torn up leaves. The mix should be the consistency of sludge. Then, using anything from your hands to a spoon, plop a bunch of the mixture onto the walls. Keep mixing this until you have all the weak spots covered. You can do the entire wall if you want. Let it dry.
3. Adding a door
3-1. Find a stick that spans across the door.
Secure it by lashing twine, rubber bands or parachute cord to the rest of the fort so that it makes a door frame.
3-2. Find an old towel or something similar.
Tie that to the top stick.
3-3. Dye the door to make it look more natural, if wished.
This can be done with black walnut stains or paint.
4. Adding the roof
4-1. Every fort needs a roof.
Gather more (yes, more) sticks if your fort is small. If it is larger, consider a tarp or tin roof.
4-2. If you choose to continue, crisscross the sticks across the fort.
4-3. Then do the same with smaller sticks to the bigger ones.
The result should leave little shafts of light pouring into the fort.
4-4. Layer leaves, grass and moss on top of the sticks and continue with mud, as for the insulation.
If you often get snow in your area, try not to make the roof too heavy- It could collapse.
4-5. Done!
Tips
Make repairs when necessary.
Make your fort yours. Furnish it with stools to sit on, shelves, or whatever you like!
Have fun. Use your fort for a club, hangout place or survival shelter.
Warnings
Be wary of an unexpected collapse in a poorly made fort.
Be sure when you are building the frame that sticks don't come crashing down on your head, especially when using large logs or roots.
Check to make sure the wood is not rotten or infested. Never use wood with a fungus growing on it.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the frame for the fort\\n1-1. Go to the general area you want your fort.\\nThis can be your backyard, a forested area, or really any place you want it.\\n1-2. Look around for big boulders, thick fallen trees, a stream, and/or open space.\\nThese will be useful in building your fort.\\n1-3. Mark out the space you want your fort.\\nIt can be as big as you want. Start clearing away debris like leaves, grass, and sticks.\\n1-4. Gather long sticks that are 6 to 12 inches taller than as tall as you want your fort to be.\\nThey don't have to be huge, in fact, skinny branches about as wide as a half dollar coin work very well.\\n1-5. Make a hole in the ground as wide as your sticks and 5 to 12 inches deep around the edge of where you want your fort.\\nDo this about every 6 inches. These will be the walls, so keep in mind that the boulders and fallen trees can act as walls for your fort, too. Use those when you can.\\n1-6. Insert the sticks into the holes and make sure they stay upright on their own.\\nKeep a space clear for the door.\\n1-7. If the sticks do not stay upright, dig the holes deeper and make sure the thicker end is at the bottom.\\n\\n1-8. Gather more sticks of any width.\\nThese should be a minimum length of 15 inches (38.1 cm).\\n1-9. Start the bottom of the upright sticks by the door.\\nPlace a 3 foot long stick with a similar width to the upright ones. Weave it in and out of the upright sticks. Do this the whole length of your fort. In, out, in, out, in, out, in, out, making sure you alternate.\\nMost sticks will only go in and out of two sticks, so don't force them, or they will break. Try to keep from having two consecutive layers of sticks both facing in or out.\\n1-10. Keep layering your sticks until you have created a solid wall all the way up.\\nIt should resemble a bird's nest.\\n2. Making the insulation\\n2-1. Ok.\\nYou have your walls and frame. Now, you want your insulation.\\n2-2. Gather leaves, grass, sod, moss, or any plant that you can stuff into the frame.\\nPine straw insulates well, and it is very common in eastern coastal America (Florida - Maine.) Stuff it very tightly. Remember that these will eventually dry out and become thinner, so keep a little extra on hand.\\n2-3. Once you have your basic leaves and moss and grass shoved into the frame, consider covering weak parts of your insulation with mud.\\nThis will stop anyone from peeking inside, stop extreme temperatures from getting in, and also provides a more professional look to the overall finish.\\n2-4. If you do decide on mud, get a bucket like the kind you use to make sand castles at the beach or wash your car with.\\nFill it halfway with water (this is why it is handy to have a stream nearby). Fill the rest with dirt and a few torn up leaves. The mix should be the consistency of sludge. Then, using anything from your hands to a spoon, plop a bunch of the mixture onto the walls. Keep mixing this until you have all the weak spots covered. You can do the entire wall if you want. Let it dry.\\n3. Adding a door\\n3-1. Find a stick that spans across the door.\\nSecure it by lashing twine, rubber bands or parachute cord to the rest of the fort so that it makes a door frame.\\n3-2. Find an old towel or something similar.\\nTie that to the top stick.\\n3-3. Dye the door to make it look more natural, if wished.\\nThis can be done with black walnut stains or paint.\\n4. Adding the roof\\n4-1. Every fort needs a roof.\\nGather more (yes, more) sticks if your fort is small. If it is larger, consider a tarp or tin roof.\\n4-2. If you choose to continue, crisscross the sticks across the fort.\\n\\n4-3. Then do the same with smaller sticks to the bigger ones.\\nThe result should leave little shafts of light pouring into the fort.\\n4-4. Layer leaves, grass and moss on top of the sticks and continue with mud, as for the insulation.\\nIf you often get snow in your area, try not to make the roof too heavy- It could collapse.\\n4-5. Done!\\n\\nTips\\nMake repairs when necessary.\\nMake your fort yours. Furnish it with stools to sit on, shelves, or whatever you like!\\nHave fun. Use your fort for a club, hangout place or survival shelter.\\nWarnings\\nBe wary of an unexpected collapse in a poorly made fort.\\nBe sure when you are building the frame that sticks don't come crashing down on your head, especially when using large logs or roots.\\nCheck to make sure the wood is not rotten or infested. Never use wood with a fungus growing on it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever tried to make a cool hangout spot in the woods but it isn't big enough, collapses, or doesn't fit in to the natural environment? This tutorial describes how to make a sturdy, large, and natural fort that's also easy.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the frame for the fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to the general area you want your fort.\", \"描述\": \"This can be your backyard, a forested area, or really any place you want it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look around for big boulders, thick fallen trees, a stream, and/or open space.\", \"描述\": \"These will be useful in building your fort.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark out the space you want your fort.\", \"描述\": \"It can be as big as you want. Start clearing away debris like leaves, grass, and sticks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather long sticks that are 6 to 12 inches taller than as tall as you want your fort to be.\", \"描述\": \"They don't have to be huge, in fact, skinny branches about as wide as a half dollar coin work very well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a hole in the ground as wide as your sticks and 5 to 12 inches deep around the edge of where you want your fort.\", \"描述\": \"Do this about every 6 inches. These will be the walls, so keep in mind that the boulders and fallen trees can act as walls for your fort, too. Use those when you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert the sticks into the holes and make sure they stay upright on their own.\", \"描述\": \"Keep a space clear for the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"If the sticks do not stay upright, dig the holes deeper and make sure the thicker end is at the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Gather more sticks of any width.\", \"描述\": \"These should be a minimum length of 15 inches (38.1 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Start the bottom of the upright sticks by the door.\", \"描述\": \"Place a 3 foot long stick with a similar width to the upright ones. Weave it in and out of the upright sticks. Do this the whole length of your fort. In, out, in, out, in, out, in, out, making sure you alternate.\\nMost sticks will only go in and out of two sticks, so don't force them, or they will break. Try to keep from having two consecutive layers of sticks both facing in or out.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Keep layering your sticks until you have created a solid wall all the way up.\", \"描述\": \"It should resemble a bird's nest.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the insulation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ok.\", \"描述\": \"You have your walls and frame. Now, you want your insulation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather leaves, grass, sod, moss, or any plant that you can stuff into the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Pine straw insulates well, and it is very common in eastern coastal America (Florida - Maine.) Stuff it very tightly. Remember that these will eventually dry out and become thinner, so keep a little extra on hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Once you have your basic leaves and moss and grass shoved into the frame, consider covering weak parts of your insulation with mud.\", \"描述\": \"This will stop anyone from peeking inside, stop extreme temperatures from getting in, and also provides a more professional look to the overall finish.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If you do decide on mud, get a bucket like the kind you use to make sand castles at the beach or wash your car with.\", \"描述\": \"Fill it halfway with water (this is why it is handy to have a stream nearby). Fill the rest with dirt and a few torn up leaves. The mix should be the consistency of sludge. Then, using anything from your hands to a spoon, plop a bunch of the mixture onto the walls. Keep mixing this until you have all the weak spots covered. You can do the entire wall if you want. Let it dry.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding a door\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a stick that spans across the door.\", \"描述\": \"Secure it by lashing twine, rubber bands or parachute cord to the rest of the fort so that it makes a door frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find an old towel or something similar.\", \"描述\": \"Tie that to the top stick.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dye the door to make it look more natural, if wished.\", \"描述\": \"This can be done with black walnut stains or paint.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding the roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Every fort needs a roof.\", \"描述\": \"Gather more (yes, more) sticks if your fort is small. If it is larger, consider a tarp or tin roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"If you choose to continue, crisscross the sticks across the fort.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Then do the same with smaller sticks to the bigger ones.\", \"描述\": \"The result should leave little shafts of light pouring into the fort.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Layer leaves, grass and moss on top of the sticks and continue with mud, as for the insulation.\", \"描述\": \"If you often get snow in your area, try not to make the roof too heavy- It could collapse.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Done!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make repairs when necessary.\\n\", \"Make your fort yours. Furnish it with stools to sit on, shelves, or whatever you like!\\n\", \"Have fun. Use your fort for a club, hangout place or survival shelter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be wary of an unexpected collapse in a poorly made fort.\\n\", \"Be sure when you are building the frame that sticks don't come crashing down on your head, especially when using large logs or roots.\\n\", \"Check to make sure the wood is not rotten or infested. Never use wood with a fungus growing on it.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,651 |
How to Build an Eight Tone Drum
|
1. Steps
1-1. Determine the size of your completed drum and the number of tones you wish to produce.
1-2. Calculate an inch and a quarter wide section of lid for each tone.
(1 inch tongue, with a quarter inch spacing on either side for cutting and sanding) A two tone drum could be as narrow as 3 inches (7.6 cm) if you placed the tongues end to end with their striking ends in the center.
1-3. Construct a solid wood box from straight grained hardwood.
The sides and bottom should be a minimum of half an inch thick, with larger boxes having thicker walls.
1-4. Carefully glue, screw, and corner block all edges to form a box that is solid and airtight.
1-5. Construct the top (your striking surface) from a single plank of straight grained hardwood.
1-6. Draw your proposed tongue pattern on paper first.
1-7. Transfer the pattern onto the wood.
1-8. Using a Drill press, drill out the ends of each cut line.
1-9. Use a saber saw or skill saw to cut the lines for your tongues.
1-10. Router the lines with a quarter round bit to smooth the edges.
1-11. Sand everything smooth.
1-12. Place the striking lid atop the box and test the tones produced.
1-13. Adjust the length(s) of your striking tongue(s) to tune your drum.
You cannot make them longer but you could sand them shorter to make the produced tone higher.
Tips
There is a reason that these instruments are so expensive. They are finely crafted and the tuning is taken to the level of science through many series of tests over a considerable period of time.
Warnings
Take appropriate cautions with all woodworking tools.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine the size of your completed drum and the number of tones you wish to produce.\\n\\n1-2. Calculate an inch and a quarter wide section of lid for each tone.\\n(1 inch tongue, with a quarter inch spacing on either side for cutting and sanding) A two tone drum could be as narrow as 3 inches (7.6 cm) if you placed the tongues end to end with their striking ends in the center.\\n1-3. Construct a solid wood box from straight grained hardwood.\\nThe sides and bottom should be a minimum of half an inch thick, with larger boxes having thicker walls.\\n1-4. Carefully glue, screw, and corner block all edges to form a box that is solid and airtight.\\n\\n1-5. Construct the top (your striking surface) from a single plank of straight grained hardwood.\\n\\n1-6. Draw your proposed tongue pattern on paper first.\\n\\n1-7. Transfer the pattern onto the wood.\\n\\n1-8. Using a Drill press, drill out the ends of each cut line.\\n\\n1-9. Use a saber saw or skill saw to cut the lines for your tongues.\\n\\n1-10. Router the lines with a quarter round bit to smooth the edges.\\n\\n1-11. Sand everything smooth.\\n\\n1-12. Place the striking lid atop the box and test the tones produced.\\n\\n1-13. Adjust the length(s) of your striking tongue(s) to tune your drum.\\nYou cannot make them longer but you could sand them shorter to make the produced tone higher.\\nTips\\nThere is a reason that these instruments are so expensive. They are finely crafted and the tuning is taken to the level of science through many series of tests over a considerable period of time.\\nWarnings\\nTake appropriate cautions with all woodworking tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Tone Drums, also referred to as \\\"log drums\\\" are unique and mellow sounding percussion instruments. Their basic construction is a long, hollow, rectangle box whose lid is perforated and cut into \\\"tongues\\\" which, when struck, produce a warm, mellow and earthy \\\"thunk\\\".\\nWhile nearly anyone with a few woodworking tools can produce a tone drum, it takes construction experience and a good ear to produce a drum with tones that are tuned in a scale. Therefore, it is suggested that you make a two tone drum to begin with and experiment with the length of the tongues on it before advancing to more tones/tongues.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of your completed drum and the number of tones you wish to produce.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate an inch and a quarter wide section of lid for each tone.\", \"描述\": \"(1 inch tongue, with a quarter inch spacing on either side for cutting and sanding) A two tone drum could be as narrow as 3 inches (7.6 cm) if you placed the tongues end to end with their striking ends in the center.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct a solid wood box from straight grained hardwood.\", \"描述\": \"The sides and bottom should be a minimum of half an inch thick, with larger boxes having thicker walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Carefully glue, screw, and corner block all edges to form a box that is solid and airtight.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct the top (your striking surface) from a single plank of straight grained hardwood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Draw your proposed tongue pattern on paper first.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Transfer the pattern onto the wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Using a Drill press, drill out the ends of each cut line.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Use a saber saw or skill saw to cut the lines for your tongues.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Router the lines with a quarter round bit to smooth the edges.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Sand everything smooth.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Place the striking lid atop the box and test the tones produced.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Adjust the length(s) of your striking tongue(s) to tune your drum.\", \"描述\": \"You cannot make them longer but you could sand them shorter to make the produced tone higher.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"There is a reason that these instruments are so expensive. They are finely crafted and the tuning is taken to the level of science through many series of tests over a considerable period of time.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Take appropriate cautions with all woodworking tools.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,652 |
How to Build an Elemental Hero Yu‐Gi‐Oh! GX Deck
|
1. Steps
1-1. Decide what kind of deck you want to build.
There are many different variants of Elemental HEROs. Currently, the best build is Masked Heroes, which use Mask Change and Shadow Mist to bring out Dark Law. However, there are many other options, so feel free to just experiment with the cards until you figure out what works for you.
1-2. Get the monsters.
The best HERO monsters are Shadow Mist, Bubbleman, Neos Alius, Blazeman, and Prisma (for fusion decks). None of the others are really worth using, except for fusing with. Masked HERO decks also use a few copies of Summoner Monk and Goblindbergh to special summon Shadow Mist and trigger its effects. Typically, HERO decks use few monsters and many cards to search them.
1-3. Put in draw and search cards to help you gain advantage and get to your combo pieces faster.
HEROs have access to some great searchers in Reinforcement of the Army, E - Emergency Call, and A Hero Lives. The first two cards are great for searching out all of your HEROs, but A Hero Lives has a rather steep cost and is best for an early game Dark Law in meta decks.
1-4. If you are playing fusions, add some fusion spells and support.
Miracle Fusion is the best fusion spell they have access to, and is good in nearly any HERO deck. If you are using Blazeman, add Polymerization since he can search it out. Fusion Reserve and Fusion Conscription can be used if you use fusions with specific materials, and Fusion Recovery can recover your materials. If using specific materials, it can be a good idea to use fusion substitutes like King of the Swamp and Prisma.
1-5. If you play Masked HEROs, add 3 copies of Mask Change.
You can also use a few copies of Mask Charge to recycle Mask Change and Form Change to switch around your HEROs. Also, use cards like Call of the Haunted or Oasis of Dragon Souls to special summon Shadow Mist.
1-6. Put in staple cards.
These are powerful cards which can disrupt your opponent or get you out of a tough situation, and so are used in almost every deck. Add cards like Twin Twisters/Mystical Space Typhoon, Raigeki, Soul Charge, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, etc.
1-7. Build an Extra deck.
Add the Masked HERO monsters if using Mask Change, and the generic HERO fusions if you have a fusion spell. Good Masked HEROs are Dark Law, Acid, Anki, and Koga, Dian and Divine Wind if using Form Change, and Contrast HERO Chaos if using Miracle Fusion. The best fusion monsters are the ones who only require a HERO monster and a certain attribute as their materials, like Absolute Zero, The Shining, Escuridao, and Nova Master. Also, include some Rank 4 Xyz monsters like Castel, Abyss Dweller, and Utopia and Utopia the Lightning, and Rank 8s like Hope Harbinger and Felgrand.
Tips
Fusion Gate is great for Fusion summoning, but be aware that it banishes the materials.
Cards like Fusion Conscription or Elemental HERO Prisma which allow you to search a Fusion Material listed on a Fusion monster will only work if the Fusion Monster revealed requires a specific name for its materials. If it says '"Elemental HERO Avian" + "Elemental HERO Burstinatrix"', you will be able to search either Burstinatrix or Avian, but if it says '1 "Elemental HERO" monster + 1 LIGHT monster', you will not be able to add any Elemental HERO or any LIGHT monster.
Don't add cards that aren't based around the deck or your strategy will go out of the window. Base the deck around Dark Law and add good support cards, cut unnecessary cards and add staples otherwise the deck will fall apart and you will draw the cards you don't need.
Warnings
Keep an eye on your cards in public, they can and do get lost or stolen.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide what kind of deck you want to build.\\nThere are many different variants of Elemental HEROs. Currently, the best build is Masked Heroes, which use Mask Change and Shadow Mist to bring out Dark Law. However, there are many other options, so feel free to just experiment with the cards until you figure out what works for you.\\n1-2. Get the monsters.\\nThe best HERO monsters are Shadow Mist, Bubbleman, Neos Alius, Blazeman, and Prisma (for fusion decks). None of the others are really worth using, except for fusing with. Masked HERO decks also use a few copies of Summoner Monk and Goblindbergh to special summon Shadow Mist and trigger its effects. Typically, HERO decks use few monsters and many cards to search them.\\n1-3. Put in draw and search cards to help you gain advantage and get to your combo pieces faster.\\nHEROs have access to some great searchers in Reinforcement of the Army, E - Emergency Call, and A Hero Lives. The first two cards are great for searching out all of your HEROs, but A Hero Lives has a rather steep cost and is best for an early game Dark Law in meta decks.\\n1-4. If you are playing fusions, add some fusion spells and support.\\nMiracle Fusion is the best fusion spell they have access to, and is good in nearly any HERO deck. If you are using Blazeman, add Polymerization since he can search it out. Fusion Reserve and Fusion Conscription can be used if you use fusions with specific materials, and Fusion Recovery can recover your materials. If using specific materials, it can be a good idea to use fusion substitutes like King of the Swamp and Prisma.\\n1-5. If you play Masked HEROs, add 3 copies of Mask Change.\\nYou can also use a few copies of Mask Charge to recycle Mask Change and Form Change to switch around your HEROs. Also, use cards like Call of the Haunted or Oasis of Dragon Souls to special summon Shadow Mist.\\n1-6. Put in staple cards.\\nThese are powerful cards which can disrupt your opponent or get you out of a tough situation, and so are used in almost every deck. Add cards like Twin Twisters/Mystical Space Typhoon, Raigeki, Soul Charge, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, etc.\\n1-7. Build an Extra deck.\\nAdd the Masked HERO monsters if using Mask Change, and the generic HERO fusions if you have a fusion spell. Good Masked HEROs are Dark Law, Acid, Anki, and Koga, Dian and Divine Wind if using Form Change, and Contrast HERO Chaos if using Miracle Fusion. The best fusion monsters are the ones who only require a HERO monster and a certain attribute as their materials, like Absolute Zero, The Shining, Escuridao, and Nova Master. Also, include some Rank 4 Xyz monsters like Castel, Abyss Dweller, and Utopia and Utopia the Lightning, and Rank 8s like Hope Harbinger and Felgrand.\\nTips\\nFusion Gate is great for Fusion summoning, but be aware that it banishes the materials.\\nCards like Fusion Conscription or Elemental HERO Prisma which allow you to search a Fusion Material listed on a Fusion monster will only work if the Fusion Monster revealed requires a specific name for its materials. If it says '\\\"Elemental HERO Avian\\\" + \\\"Elemental HERO Burstinatrix\\\"', you will be able to search either Burstinatrix or Avian, but if it says '1 \\\"Elemental HERO\\\" monster + 1 LIGHT monster', you will not be able to add any Elemental HERO or any LIGHT monster.\\nDon't add cards that aren't based around the deck or your strategy will go out of the window. Base the deck around Dark Law and add good support cards, cut unnecessary cards and add staples otherwise the deck will fall apart and you will draw the cards you don't need.\\nWarnings\\nKeep an eye on your cards in public, they can and do get lost or stolen.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building an Elemental Hero deck in Yu-Gi-Oh! can be a great way to strike your opponents quickly with powerful monsters. This article will teach you how to successfully build this awesome type of deck.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide what kind of deck you want to build.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different variants of Elemental HEROs. Currently, the best build is Masked Heroes, which use Mask Change and Shadow Mist to bring out Dark Law. However, there are many other options, so feel free to just experiment with the cards until you figure out what works for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get the monsters.\", \"描述\": \"The best HERO monsters are Shadow Mist, Bubbleman, Neos Alius, Blazeman, and Prisma (for fusion decks). None of the others are really worth using, except for fusing with. Masked HERO decks also use a few copies of Summoner Monk and Goblindbergh to special summon Shadow Mist and trigger its effects. Typically, HERO decks use few monsters and many cards to search them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put in draw and search cards to help you gain advantage and get to your combo pieces faster.\", \"描述\": \"HEROs have access to some great searchers in Reinforcement of the Army, E - Emergency Call, and A Hero Lives. The first two cards are great for searching out all of your HEROs, but A Hero Lives has a rather steep cost and is best for an early game Dark Law in meta decks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"If you are playing fusions, add some fusion spells and support.\", \"描述\": \"Miracle Fusion is the best fusion spell they have access to, and is good in nearly any HERO deck. If you are using Blazeman, add Polymerization since he can search it out. Fusion Reserve and Fusion Conscription can be used if you use fusions with specific materials, and Fusion Recovery can recover your materials. If using specific materials, it can be a good idea to use fusion substitutes like King of the Swamp and Prisma.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"If you play Masked HEROs, add 3 copies of Mask Change.\", \"描述\": \"You can also use a few copies of Mask Charge to recycle Mask Change and Form Change to switch around your HEROs. Also, use cards like Call of the Haunted or Oasis of Dragon Souls to special summon Shadow Mist.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put in staple cards.\", \"描述\": \"These are powerful cards which can disrupt your opponent or get you out of a tough situation, and so are used in almost every deck. Add cards like Twin Twisters/Mystical Space Typhoon, Raigeki, Soul Charge, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Build an Extra deck.\", \"描述\": \"Add the Masked HERO monsters if using Mask Change, and the generic HERO fusions if you have a fusion spell. Good Masked HEROs are Dark Law, Acid, Anki, and Koga, Dian and Divine Wind if using Form Change, and Contrast HERO Chaos if using Miracle Fusion. The best fusion monsters are the ones who only require a HERO monster and a certain attribute as their materials, like Absolute Zero, The Shining, Escuridao, and Nova Master. Also, include some Rank 4 Xyz monsters like Castel, Abyss Dweller, and Utopia and Utopia the Lightning, and Rank 8s like Hope Harbinger and Felgrand.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Fusion Gate is great for Fusion summoning, but be aware that it banishes the materials.\\n\", \"Cards like Fusion Conscription or Elemental HERO Prisma which allow you to search a Fusion Material listed on a Fusion monster will only work if the Fusion Monster revealed requires a specific name for its materials. If it says '\\\"Elemental HERO Avian\\\" + \\\"Elemental HERO Burstinatrix\\\"', you will be able to search either Burstinatrix or Avian, but if it says '1 \\\"Elemental HERO\\\" monster + 1 LIGHT monster', you will not be able to add any Elemental HERO or any LIGHT monster.\\n\", \"Don't add cards that aren't based around the deck or your strategy will go out of the window. Base the deck around Dark Law and add good support cards, cut unnecessary cards and add staples otherwise the deck will fall apart and you will draw the cards you don't need.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep an eye on your cards in public, they can and do get lost or stolen.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,653 |
How to Build an Elevated Deck: Design to Completion
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1. Putting Your Plan Together
1-1. Research your local building codes and permitting process.
The size and weight-bearing capacity of elevated decks are nearly always controlled by local building codes, so be sure to contact your locality’s code office before beginning your project. You’ll probably need to obtain a building permit as well in order to build an elevated deck (this may not be the case if you’re building an on-the-ground deck).
Don’t skip this step! Otherwise, you may discover the hard way that your homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover injuries that occur on a deck that isn’t permitted and built according to code.
1-2. Contact your local utilities to mark any buried lines on your property.
Do this even if you think there’s no way there are any buried gas, water, or electrical lines in the area where you’re going to build the deck. It’s much better to be safe than sorry!
In the U.S., call 811 before you dig.
1-3. Find out what the frost line is in your area, if applicable.
If you live in an area that gets cold winters, the frost line is the average depth to which the ground freezes. You need to dig at least 6 in (15 cm) below the frost line—or perhaps 12 in (30 cm) or more according to your local building code—to install your deck piers and support posts. Otherwise, the annual freeze-thaw cycle may cause your deck to buckle and potentially fall.
1-4. Plan out the dimensions and building materials for the deck.
Instead of just “guess-timating” the layout and materials list for your deck, create a specific plan for it. To simplify the process, work with an architect or use an online deck-designer tool to plan out the specifications for your elevated deck.
While the deck’s structure is typically made from pressure-treated lumber, you have several options for the decking boards you’ll be walking on. You can use a range of natural woods like cedar or redwood, composite (blended wood and plastic) decking, or PVC decking, to name just a few options.
Many big-box home improvement stores and decking material producers offer free online deck design tools.
Because this is an elevated deck, you’ll have to include railings in your design. You’ll also need stairs, unless you’re building more of a balcony-style deck that doesn’t have direct access to your yard.
2. Attaching the Ledger Board
2-1. Mark the top and bottom lines for the deck on your home.
Remove any siding so you can mark the lines on the sheathing underneath. Use a level and string a chalk line across the sheathing to mark a line where the top of the ledger board—the connection point between the deck and your home—will attach. Measure down the width of your ledger board—for example, 9.5 in (24 cm) if you’re using a 2 x 10 ledger board—and mark another level chalk line.
Remember to factor in the thickness of your decking boards, which will rest on top of the ledger board, when determining the height of your deck in relation to the exterior door you’ll use to access the deck. To reduce the chance of water infiltration (and to keep leaves from blowing in), it’s best to have the tops of the deck boards about 3 in (7.6 cm) below the door threshold.
If you’re building the deck off the first level of your home, locate the bottom of the ledger board at least 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the top of the concrete, stone, or brick foundation. This prevents water from leeching up from the foundation into the ledger board.
2-2. Cut the ledger board and its opposing board to length.
If your deck is going to be 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, for example, cut the ledger board to that length. Assuming that you’re building a square or rectangular deck—which you probably should be as a DIYer!—cut the opposing board that will be on the other side of the deck to the same length as the ledger board.
In most cases, the opposing board will be a mirror image of the ledger board—the same size, dimensions, and type of wood.
2-3. Mark the joist locations on the ledger board and its opposing board.
Start at the left side of the ledger board, marking on it the location for the left-side rim joist. Do the same for the right-side rim joist. (Keep in mind when marking these locations that the rim joists are typically 2 standard joists sandwiched together.) Then, mark off on the ledger board the center lines for the deck’s supporting joists that will be spaced out between the rim joists.
Repeat this joist-marking process on the ledger board’s opposing board as well.
Since the joists will support the deck flooring and provide structural stability, proper spacing based on your design and weight-capacity needs is important. In general, deck joists are spaced 2 ft (61 cm) apart.
2-4. Secure the joist hangers in place with nails.
Set a joist hanger so it’s centered over one of the spacing lines you marked for the joists on the ledger board. Nail the hanger in place with joist hanger nails, which are fairly short and thick. Continue the process across both the ledger board and to its opposing board.
2-5. Attach the ledger board to the house with lag screws.
Line up the ledger board with the lines you put on the house, then temporarily tack it in place with nails. Drill holes into the ledger board for the lag screws—space out either 1 or 2 holes between each joist hanger, depending on how many lag screws you plan calls for. Add a dollop of silicone caulk to each drill hole, then use an impact wrench to sink a lag screw—minimum ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) diameter—into each hole.
3. Setting the Footings and Posts
3-1. Mark out and dig holes for the footings.
Lay out the locations for the footings by running string lines between wood stakes pounded into the ground—use a tape measure and level to make sure the layout is correct. Once you’ve marked each footer location, use either a post-hole digger or power auger to dig the footing holes at least 6–12 in (15–30 cm) deeper than the frost line in your area.
Generally speaking, deck footings are spaced about 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) apart, and rarely if ever more than 8 ft (2.4 m) apart.
Depending on where you live, your local building inspector may need to check the holes for depth before you can continue.
Remember to call 811 to have your utility lines marked before you start digging.
3-2. Set pier forms in the holes and add concrete.
Place a tubular concrete pier form—typically made of either plastic or heavy-duty cardboard—into each hole, then trim the tops of each form as needed so they’re all level. Loosely add backfill around all the forms to hold them in place, then fill each form with concrete.
Choose a concrete mix that’s intended for use in footings and mix it according to the product instructions.
3-3. Sink anchor bolts into the concrete while it’s still wet.
Center an anchor bolt (also called a J-bolt) over a concrete-filled pier form and sink the hooked end down into the concrete until only the threaded top portion of the bolt is visible. Repeat this with all the other pier locations, then let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step.
Use anchor bolts that coordinate with the metal post bases you’ve chosen to use to attach the deck posts to the concrete footings.
3-4. Secure the post bases to the footings once the concrete has dried.
Slip a post base over one of the exposed anchor bolts, then slide on a washer and nut. Hand-tighten the nut for now—you can tighten it fully once you confirm everything is in the proper position. Attach the other post bases in the same fashion.
Post bases are designed to keep the wood posts from coming in direct contact with the concrete footings. Without them, moisture will wick up from the concrete into the wood and may cause it to rot prematurely.
3-5. Connect the wood posts to the post bases.
Set one of the posts down into one of the post bases, check for fit and positioning, then move the post and fully tighten the nut on the post base’s anchor bolt. Return the wood post to its position and lock it in place with the structural screws that come with the post base. Attach all the other posts the same way.
Regularly check to confirm that the posts are level and square. Temporarily hold them in the proper position with braces made of scrap lumber.
Cut off the tops of the posts to the correct height once all of them are in place.
4. Laying the Floor Structure and Decking
4-1. Secure the ledger board’s opposing board to the posts.
Set the board—which may be a pair of 2 x 10 boards sandwiched together, depending on your design and local building code—on the posts at the far end of the deck. Once you confirm the board is square and level, attach it with lag screws or lag bolts.
4-2. Attach the rim joists to the ledger board and its opposing board.
Slide the rim joists—which, along with the ledger board and its opposing board, complete the perimeter of your deck—into the joist hangers at the ends of the ledger board and its opposing board. Secure them in place with galvanized nails or decking screws.
Continue to regularly check for level and square as you work.
If you’re using pressure-treated lumber, brush some end-grain sealer onto the cut ends to help prevent rot.
4-3. Attach the remaining joists to the joist hangers.
Before installation, look down the length of each joist and check signs of bowing (called a crown). If you see a crown, install the joist with the crown pointing up so it will flatten out over time. Secure all the joists into place by driving nails or screws through the hangers.
Tap the joists into place with a hammer if it’s a snug fit between the joist hangers. However, trim off a bit of the joist instead of bashing at it with the hammer in order to squeeze it into the hangers. The joists need a bit of room for natural expansion and contraction with the weather.
4-4. Install the deck boards on the joists.
Start at the ledger board and cut the first 2 deck boards exactly to length—either equal to the width between the rim joists or slightly wider to account for any skirting you plan to add later. The other deck boards can be cut to length after installation with a circular saw or jigsaw. Install the first deck board flush against the house, driving 2 deck screws through the board and into each joist. For each subsequent deck board, leave a space equivalent to the width of a 10-penny nail—about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)—between boards to allow for water drainage.
If you’re using composite or PVC decking, you might be instructed to use a special decking jig that allows you to drive screws or nails into the sides of the deck boards instead of straight down from above. This makes the fasteners invisible once the deck is complete.
If your deck is wider than your deck boards, cut the boards so they join right over a joist. Stagger these joints with each row of deck boards so they don’t all end up on the same joist.
5. Adding Skirting, Railings, and Stairs
5-1. Cover the rim joists and beam with a skirting board if desired.
A skirting board is an optional element that is simply used to conceal the structural wood beneath. If you choose to add one, cut the skirting boards—you might use 2 x 10 boards, for instance—to length and nail or screw them to the rim joists and the beam that runs opposite to the ledger board. Use simple butt joints instead of angled miter joints at the corners to limit noticeable gaps when the wood expands and contracts with the weather.
Add the skirting board before installing the railings and stairs. Or just skip this optional element and move on to those components of the deck.
5-2. Install deck railings according to code.
All elevated decks need railings as a safety measure, and your local building code will dictate elements such as height and spacing. Adding a railing varies based on a lot of design and code factors, but here’s a general rundown:
Cut notches into the bottoms of the 4 x 4 (or similar) posts so they will partially rest on the decking and partially overhang the deck.
Secure the posts through the skirting board and into the rim joists or beam with at least 2 lag screws or carriage bolts per post.
Carefully measure the spacing between posts, then cut and assemble the top and bottom rails and balusters as a unit. Attach each section of railing and balusters between the posts with 3 in (7.6 cm) screws.
5-3. Build stairs as needed for deck access.
Not all elevated decks have stairs, but you’ll need them if you want to access your deck from outside! Building deck stairs is a rather complex process that requires strong math and construction skills, so it’s okay to think about hiring a pro just for this element. That said, here’s a quick summary of the process:
Use math (perhaps with the help of an online design tool) to design stairs that meet your local building code—for example, deck stairs often need to be at least 36 in (91 cm) wide, at least 10 in (25 cm) in tread depth, and no more than 7.75 in (19.7 cm) in height per step.
Cut the left, right, and center stringers (the supports for the stair treads) out of 2 x 12 boards and attach them to the deck structure with corner brackets, L-brackets, and 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.
Cut the risers (the vertical part of each step) and attach them to the stringers with deck screws.
Trim 1.5 x 10 tread boards to length and connect them to the stringers with 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.
Add posts and railings in the same way as those on the deck, but this time factoring in for the angle of the stairs.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Putting Your Plan Together\\n1-1. Research your local building codes and permitting process.\\nThe size and weight-bearing capacity of elevated decks are nearly always controlled by local building codes, so be sure to contact your locality’s code office before beginning your project. You’ll probably need to obtain a building permit as well in order to build an elevated deck (this may not be the case if you’re building an on-the-ground deck).\\nDon’t skip this step! Otherwise, you may discover the hard way that your homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover injuries that occur on a deck that isn’t permitted and built according to code.\\n1-2. Contact your local utilities to mark any buried lines on your property.\\nDo this even if you think there’s no way there are any buried gas, water, or electrical lines in the area where you’re going to build the deck. It’s much better to be safe than sorry!\\nIn the U.S., call 811 before you dig.\\n1-3. Find out what the frost line is in your area, if applicable.\\nIf you live in an area that gets cold winters, the frost line is the average depth to which the ground freezes. You need to dig at least 6 in (15 cm) below the frost line—or perhaps 12 in (30 cm) or more according to your local building code—to install your deck piers and support posts. Otherwise, the annual freeze-thaw cycle may cause your deck to buckle and potentially fall.\\n1-4. Plan out the dimensions and building materials for the deck.\\nInstead of just “guess-timating” the layout and materials list for your deck, create a specific plan for it. To simplify the process, work with an architect or use an online deck-designer tool to plan out the specifications for your elevated deck.\\nWhile the deck’s structure is typically made from pressure-treated lumber, you have several options for the decking boards you’ll be walking on. You can use a range of natural woods like cedar or redwood, composite (blended wood and plastic) decking, or PVC decking, to name just a few options.\\nMany big-box home improvement stores and decking material producers offer free online deck design tools.\\nBecause this is an elevated deck, you’ll have to include railings in your design. You’ll also need stairs, unless you’re building more of a balcony-style deck that doesn’t have direct access to your yard.\\n2. Attaching the Ledger Board\\n2-1. Mark the top and bottom lines for the deck on your home.\\nRemove any siding so you can mark the lines on the sheathing underneath. Use a level and string a chalk line across the sheathing to mark a line where the top of the ledger board—the connection point between the deck and your home—will attach. Measure down the width of your ledger board—for example, 9.5 in (24 cm) if you’re using a 2 x 10 ledger board—and mark another level chalk line.\\nRemember to factor in the thickness of your decking boards, which will rest on top of the ledger board, when determining the height of your deck in relation to the exterior door you’ll use to access the deck. To reduce the chance of water infiltration (and to keep leaves from blowing in), it’s best to have the tops of the deck boards about 3 in (7.6 cm) below the door threshold.\\nIf you’re building the deck off the first level of your home, locate the bottom of the ledger board at least 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the top of the concrete, stone, or brick foundation. This prevents water from leeching up from the foundation into the ledger board.\\n2-2. Cut the ledger board and its opposing board to length.\\nIf your deck is going to be 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, for example, cut the ledger board to that length. Assuming that you’re building a square or rectangular deck—which you probably should be as a DIYer!—cut the opposing board that will be on the other side of the deck to the same length as the ledger board.\\nIn most cases, the opposing board will be a mirror image of the ledger board—the same size, dimensions, and type of wood.\\n2-3. Mark the joist locations on the ledger board and its opposing board.\\nStart at the left side of the ledger board, marking on it the location for the left-side rim joist. Do the same for the right-side rim joist. (Keep in mind when marking these locations that the rim joists are typically 2 standard joists sandwiched together.) Then, mark off on the ledger board the center lines for the deck’s supporting joists that will be spaced out between the rim joists.\\nRepeat this joist-marking process on the ledger board’s opposing board as well.\\nSince the joists will support the deck flooring and provide structural stability, proper spacing based on your design and weight-capacity needs is important. In general, deck joists are spaced 2 ft (61 cm) apart.\\n2-4. Secure the joist hangers in place with nails.\\nSet a joist hanger so it’s centered over one of the spacing lines you marked for the joists on the ledger board. Nail the hanger in place with joist hanger nails, which are fairly short and thick. Continue the process across both the ledger board and to its opposing board.\\n2-5. Attach the ledger board to the house with lag screws.\\nLine up the ledger board with the lines you put on the house, then temporarily tack it in place with nails. Drill holes into the ledger board for the lag screws—space out either 1 or 2 holes between each joist hanger, depending on how many lag screws you plan calls for. Add a dollop of silicone caulk to each drill hole, then use an impact wrench to sink a lag screw—minimum ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) diameter—into each hole.\\n3. Setting the Footings and Posts\\n3-1. Mark out and dig holes for the footings.\\nLay out the locations for the footings by running string lines between wood stakes pounded into the ground—use a tape measure and level to make sure the layout is correct. Once you’ve marked each footer location, use either a post-hole digger or power auger to dig the footing holes at least 6–12 in (15–30 cm) deeper than the frost line in your area.\\nGenerally speaking, deck footings are spaced about 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) apart, and rarely if ever more than 8 ft (2.4 m) apart.\\nDepending on where you live, your local building inspector may need to check the holes for depth before you can continue.\\nRemember to call 811 to have your utility lines marked before you start digging.\\n3-2. Set pier forms in the holes and add concrete.\\nPlace a tubular concrete pier form—typically made of either plastic or heavy-duty cardboard—into each hole, then trim the tops of each form as needed so they’re all level. Loosely add backfill around all the forms to hold them in place, then fill each form with concrete.\\nChoose a concrete mix that’s intended for use in footings and mix it according to the product instructions.\\n3-3. Sink anchor bolts into the concrete while it’s still wet.\\nCenter an anchor bolt (also called a J-bolt) over a concrete-filled pier form and sink the hooked end down into the concrete until only the threaded top portion of the bolt is visible. Repeat this with all the other pier locations, then let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step.\\nUse anchor bolts that coordinate with the metal post bases you’ve chosen to use to attach the deck posts to the concrete footings.\\n3-4. Secure the post bases to the footings once the concrete has dried.\\nSlip a post base over one of the exposed anchor bolts, then slide on a washer and nut. Hand-tighten the nut for now—you can tighten it fully once you confirm everything is in the proper position. Attach the other post bases in the same fashion.\\nPost bases are designed to keep the wood posts from coming in direct contact with the concrete footings. Without them, moisture will wick up from the concrete into the wood and may cause it to rot prematurely.\\n3-5. Connect the wood posts to the post bases.\\nSet one of the posts down into one of the post bases, check for fit and positioning, then move the post and fully tighten the nut on the post base’s anchor bolt. Return the wood post to its position and lock it in place with the structural screws that come with the post base. Attach all the other posts the same way.\\nRegularly check to confirm that the posts are level and square. Temporarily hold them in the proper position with braces made of scrap lumber.\\nCut off the tops of the posts to the correct height once all of them are in place.\\n4. Laying the Floor Structure and Decking\\n4-1. Secure the ledger board’s opposing board to the posts.\\nSet the board—which may be a pair of 2 x 10 boards sandwiched together, depending on your design and local building code—on the posts at the far end of the deck. Once you confirm the board is square and level, attach it with lag screws or lag bolts.\\n4-2. Attach the rim joists to the ledger board and its opposing board.\\nSlide the rim joists—which, along with the ledger board and its opposing board, complete the perimeter of your deck—into the joist hangers at the ends of the ledger board and its opposing board. Secure them in place with galvanized nails or decking screws.\\nContinue to regularly check for level and square as you work.\\nIf you’re using pressure-treated lumber, brush some end-grain sealer onto the cut ends to help prevent rot.\\n4-3. Attach the remaining joists to the joist hangers.\\nBefore installation, look down the length of each joist and check signs of bowing (called a crown). If you see a crown, install the joist with the crown pointing up so it will flatten out over time. Secure all the joists into place by driving nails or screws through the hangers.\\nTap the joists into place with a hammer if it’s a snug fit between the joist hangers. However, trim off a bit of the joist instead of bashing at it with the hammer in order to squeeze it into the hangers. The joists need a bit of room for natural expansion and contraction with the weather.\\n4-4. Install the deck boards on the joists.\\nStart at the ledger board and cut the first 2 deck boards exactly to length—either equal to the width between the rim joists or slightly wider to account for any skirting you plan to add later. The other deck boards can be cut to length after installation with a circular saw or jigsaw. Install the first deck board flush against the house, driving 2 deck screws through the board and into each joist. For each subsequent deck board, leave a space equivalent to the width of a 10-penny nail—about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)—between boards to allow for water drainage.\\nIf you’re using composite or PVC decking, you might be instructed to use a special decking jig that allows you to drive screws or nails into the sides of the deck boards instead of straight down from above. This makes the fasteners invisible once the deck is complete.\\nIf your deck is wider than your deck boards, cut the boards so they join right over a joist. Stagger these joints with each row of deck boards so they don’t all end up on the same joist.\\n5. Adding Skirting, Railings, and Stairs\\n5-1. Cover the rim joists and beam with a skirting board if desired.\\nA skirting board is an optional element that is simply used to conceal the structural wood beneath. If you choose to add one, cut the skirting boards—you might use 2 x 10 boards, for instance—to length and nail or screw them to the rim joists and the beam that runs opposite to the ledger board. Use simple butt joints instead of angled miter joints at the corners to limit noticeable gaps when the wood expands and contracts with the weather.\\nAdd the skirting board before installing the railings and stairs. Or just skip this optional element and move on to those components of the deck.\\n5-2. Install deck railings according to code.\\nAll elevated decks need railings as a safety measure, and your local building code will dictate elements such as height and spacing. Adding a railing varies based on a lot of design and code factors, but here’s a general rundown:\\nCut notches into the bottoms of the 4 x 4 (or similar) posts so they will partially rest on the decking and partially overhang the deck.\\nSecure the posts through the skirting board and into the rim joists or beam with at least 2 lag screws or carriage bolts per post.\\nCarefully measure the spacing between posts, then cut and assemble the top and bottom rails and balusters as a unit. Attach each section of railing and balusters between the posts with 3 in (7.6 cm) screws.\\n5-3. Build stairs as needed for deck access.\\nNot all elevated decks have stairs, but you’ll need them if you want to access your deck from outside! Building deck stairs is a rather complex process that requires strong math and construction skills, so it’s okay to think about hiring a pro just for this element. That said, here’s a quick summary of the process:\\nUse math (perhaps with the help of an online design tool) to design stairs that meet your local building code—for example, deck stairs often need to be at least 36 in (91 cm) wide, at least 10 in (25 cm) in tread depth, and no more than 7.75 in (19.7 cm) in height per step.\\nCut the left, right, and center stringers (the supports for the stair treads) out of 2 x 12 boards and attach them to the deck structure with corner brackets, L-brackets, and 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nCut the risers (the vertical part of each step) and attach them to the stringers with deck screws.\\nTrim 1.5 x 10 tread boards to length and connect them to the stringers with 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nAdd posts and railings in the same way as those on the deck, but this time factoring in for the angle of the stairs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"An elevated deck (also called a raised deck) offers a great outdoor extension of your indoor living space. While it’s not a job for beginners, adding a deck is a good DIY project with the right planning, skills, and equipment. We’ll walk you through the process from start to finish so you can build your own elevated deck—or so you’ll know what the job involves if you decide to hire a pro!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Putting Your Plan Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research your local building codes and permitting process.\", \"描述\": \"The size and weight-bearing capacity of elevated decks are nearly always controlled by local building codes, so be sure to contact your locality’s code office before beginning your project. You’ll probably need to obtain a building permit as well in order to build an elevated deck (this may not be the case if you’re building an on-the-ground deck).\\nDon’t skip this step! Otherwise, you may discover the hard way that your homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover injuries that occur on a deck that isn’t permitted and built according to code.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Contact your local utilities to mark any buried lines on your property.\", \"描述\": \"Do this even if you think there’s no way there are any buried gas, water, or electrical lines in the area where you’re going to build the deck. It’s much better to be safe than sorry!\\nIn the U.S., call 811 before you dig.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find out what the frost line is in your area, if applicable.\", \"描述\": \"If you live in an area that gets cold winters, the frost line is the average depth to which the ground freezes. You need to dig at least 6 in (15 cm) below the frost line—or perhaps 12 in (30 cm) or more according to your local building code—to install your deck piers and support posts. Otherwise, the annual freeze-thaw cycle may cause your deck to buckle and potentially fall.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plan out the dimensions and building materials for the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of just “guess-timating” the layout and materials list for your deck, create a specific plan for it. To simplify the process, work with an architect or use an online deck-designer tool to plan out the specifications for your elevated deck.\\nWhile the deck’s structure is typically made from pressure-treated lumber, you have several options for the decking boards you’ll be walking on. You can use a range of natural woods like cedar or redwood, composite (blended wood and plastic) decking, or PVC decking, to name just a few options.\\nMany big-box home improvement stores and decking material producers offer free online deck design tools.\\nBecause this is an elevated deck, you’ll have to include railings in your design. You’ll also need stairs, unless you’re building more of a balcony-style deck that doesn’t have direct access to your yard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Ledger Board\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark the top and bottom lines for the deck on your home.\", \"描述\": \"Remove any siding so you can mark the lines on the sheathing underneath. Use a level and string a chalk line across the sheathing to mark a line where the top of the ledger board—the connection point between the deck and your home—will attach. Measure down the width of your ledger board—for example, 9.5 in (24 cm) if you’re using a 2 x 10 ledger board—and mark another level chalk line.\\nRemember to factor in the thickness of your decking boards, which will rest on top of the ledger board, when determining the height of your deck in relation to the exterior door you’ll use to access the deck. To reduce the chance of water infiltration (and to keep leaves from blowing in), it’s best to have the tops of the deck boards about 3 in (7.6 cm) below the door threshold.\\nIf you’re building the deck off the first level of your home, locate the bottom of the ledger board at least 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the top of the concrete, stone, or brick foundation. This prevents water from leeching up from the foundation into the ledger board.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the ledger board and its opposing board to length.\", \"描述\": \"If your deck is going to be 10 ft (3.0 m) wide, for example, cut the ledger board to that length. Assuming that you’re building a square or rectangular deck—which you probably should be as a DIYer!—cut the opposing board that will be on the other side of the deck to the same length as the ledger board.\\nIn most cases, the opposing board will be a mirror image of the ledger board—the same size, dimensions, and type of wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the joist locations on the ledger board and its opposing board.\", \"描述\": \"Start at the left side of the ledger board, marking on it the location for the left-side rim joist. Do the same for the right-side rim joist. (Keep in mind when marking these locations that the rim joists are typically 2 standard joists sandwiched together.) Then, mark off on the ledger board the center lines for the deck’s supporting joists that will be spaced out between the rim joists.\\nRepeat this joist-marking process on the ledger board’s opposing board as well.\\nSince the joists will support the deck flooring and provide structural stability, proper spacing based on your design and weight-capacity needs is important. In general, deck joists are spaced 2 ft (61 cm) apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the joist hangers in place with nails.\", \"描述\": \"Set a joist hanger so it’s centered over one of the spacing lines you marked for the joists on the ledger board. Nail the hanger in place with joist hanger nails, which are fairly short and thick. Continue the process across both the ledger board and to its opposing board.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the ledger board to the house with lag screws.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the ledger board with the lines you put on the house, then temporarily tack it in place with nails. Drill holes into the ledger board for the lag screws—space out either 1 or 2 holes between each joist hanger, depending on how many lag screws you plan calls for. Add a dollop of silicone caulk to each drill hole, then use an impact wrench to sink a lag screw—minimum ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) diameter—into each hole.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting the Footings and Posts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark out and dig holes for the footings.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out the locations for the footings by running string lines between wood stakes pounded into the ground—use a tape measure and level to make sure the layout is correct. Once you’ve marked each footer location, use either a post-hole digger or power auger to dig the footing holes at least 6–12 in (15–30 cm) deeper than the frost line in your area.\\nGenerally speaking, deck footings are spaced about 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) apart, and rarely if ever more than 8 ft (2.4 m) apart.\\nDepending on where you live, your local building inspector may need to check the holes for depth before you can continue.\\nRemember to call 811 to have your utility lines marked before you start digging.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set pier forms in the holes and add concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Place a tubular concrete pier form—typically made of either plastic or heavy-duty cardboard—into each hole, then trim the tops of each form as needed so they’re all level. Loosely add backfill around all the forms to hold them in place, then fill each form with concrete.\\nChoose a concrete mix that’s intended for use in footings and mix it according to the product instructions.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sink anchor bolts into the concrete while it’s still wet.\", \"描述\": \"Center an anchor bolt (also called a J-bolt) over a concrete-filled pier form and sink the hooked end down into the concrete until only the threaded top portion of the bolt is visible. Repeat this with all the other pier locations, then let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step.\\nUse anchor bolts that coordinate with the metal post bases you’ve chosen to use to attach the deck posts to the concrete footings.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the post bases to the footings once the concrete has dried.\", \"描述\": \"Slip a post base over one of the exposed anchor bolts, then slide on a washer and nut. Hand-tighten the nut for now—you can tighten it fully once you confirm everything is in the proper position. Attach the other post bases in the same fashion.\\nPost bases are designed to keep the wood posts from coming in direct contact with the concrete footings. Without them, moisture will wick up from the concrete into the wood and may cause it to rot prematurely.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Connect the wood posts to the post bases.\", \"描述\": \"Set one of the posts down into one of the post bases, check for fit and positioning, then move the post and fully tighten the nut on the post base’s anchor bolt. Return the wood post to its position and lock it in place with the structural screws that come with the post base. Attach all the other posts the same way.\\nRegularly check to confirm that the posts are level and square. Temporarily hold them in the proper position with braces made of scrap lumber.\\nCut off the tops of the posts to the correct height once all of them are in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Laying the Floor Structure and Decking\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Secure the ledger board’s opposing board to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"Set the board—which may be a pair of 2 x 10 boards sandwiched together, depending on your design and local building code—on the posts at the far end of the deck. Once you confirm the board is square and level, attach it with lag screws or lag bolts.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the rim joists to the ledger board and its opposing board.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the rim joists—which, along with the ledger board and its opposing board, complete the perimeter of your deck—into the joist hangers at the ends of the ledger board and its opposing board. Secure them in place with galvanized nails or decking screws.\\nContinue to regularly check for level and square as you work.\\nIf you’re using pressure-treated lumber, brush some end-grain sealer onto the cut ends to help prevent rot.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the remaining joists to the joist hangers.\", \"描述\": \"Before installation, look down the length of each joist and check signs of bowing (called a crown). If you see a crown, install the joist with the crown pointing up so it will flatten out over time. Secure all the joists into place by driving nails or screws through the hangers.\\nTap the joists into place with a hammer if it’s a snug fit between the joist hangers. However, trim off a bit of the joist instead of bashing at it with the hammer in order to squeeze it into the hangers. The joists need a bit of room for natural expansion and contraction with the weather.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the deck boards on the joists.\", \"描述\": \"Start at the ledger board and cut the first 2 deck boards exactly to length—either equal to the width between the rim joists or slightly wider to account for any skirting you plan to add later. The other deck boards can be cut to length after installation with a circular saw or jigsaw. Install the first deck board flush against the house, driving 2 deck screws through the board and into each joist. For each subsequent deck board, leave a space equivalent to the width of a 10-penny nail—about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm)—between boards to allow for water drainage.\\nIf you’re using composite or PVC decking, you might be instructed to use a special decking jig that allows you to drive screws or nails into the sides of the deck boards instead of straight down from above. This makes the fasteners invisible once the deck is complete.\\nIf your deck is wider than your deck boards, cut the boards so they join right over a joist. Stagger these joints with each row of deck boards so they don’t all end up on the same joist.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Adding Skirting, Railings, and Stairs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cover the rim joists and beam with a skirting board if desired.\", \"描述\": \"A skirting board is an optional element that is simply used to conceal the structural wood beneath. If you choose to add one, cut the skirting boards—you might use 2 x 10 boards, for instance—to length and nail or screw them to the rim joists and the beam that runs opposite to the ledger board. Use simple butt joints instead of angled miter joints at the corners to limit noticeable gaps when the wood expands and contracts with the weather.\\nAdd the skirting board before installing the railings and stairs. Or just skip this optional element and move on to those components of the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install deck railings according to code.\", \"描述\": \"All elevated decks need railings as a safety measure, and your local building code will dictate elements such as height and spacing. Adding a railing varies based on a lot of design and code factors, but here’s a general rundown:\\nCut notches into the bottoms of the 4 x 4 (or similar) posts so they will partially rest on the decking and partially overhang the deck.\\nSecure the posts through the skirting board and into the rim joists or beam with at least 2 lag screws or carriage bolts per post.\\nCarefully measure the spacing between posts, then cut and assemble the top and bottom rails and balusters as a unit. Attach each section of railing and balusters between the posts with 3 in (7.6 cm) screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build stairs as needed for deck access.\", \"描述\": \"Not all elevated decks have stairs, but you’ll need them if you want to access your deck from outside! Building deck stairs is a rather complex process that requires strong math and construction skills, so it’s okay to think about hiring a pro just for this element. That said, here’s a quick summary of the process:\\nUse math (perhaps with the help of an online design tool) to design stairs that meet your local building code—for example, deck stairs often need to be at least 36 in (91 cm) wide, at least 10 in (25 cm) in tread depth, and no more than 7.75 in (19.7 cm) in height per step.\\nCut the left, right, and center stringers (the supports for the stair treads) out of 2 x 12 boards and attach them to the deck structure with corner brackets, L-brackets, and 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nCut the risers (the vertical part of each step) and attach them to the stringers with deck screws.\\nTrim 1.5 x 10 tread boards to length and connect them to the stringers with 3 in (7.6 cm) deck screws.\\nAdd posts and railings in the same way as those on the deck, but this time factoring in for the angle of the stairs.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,654 |
How to Build an Elevator in Minecraft
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1. Creating the Elevator's Base
1-1. Dig the foundation.
Create a four-block-wide, three-block-long, and four-block deep hole. Make sure that you do this below the area from which you want your elevator to launch.
For example, if you have a basement's foundation laid out, you'll need to dig this hole in the bottom of the basement's foundation.
1-2. Face a three-block-wide side.
It doesn't matter which side of the foundation you face.
1-3. Replace the middle block in the second row of the floor with obsidian.
This means that the first row of the floor out from the three-wide wall will have no obsidian, but the next row will have a block of obsidian instead of a block of dirt (or stone, or whatever the floor's material is).
1-4. Reposition yourself.
Stand behind the obsidian block and face the four-block-wide side, ensuring that the shorter side of the foundation is to your right and the longer end is to your left.
This is extremely important, so make sure that you're positioned correctly before proceeding.
1-5. Remove the block between the obsidian block and the wall.
This will create a one-block-deep hole in the floor of the foundation.
1-6. Remove a one-block perimeter from the foundation.
Your foundation should now be 5 blocks wide, 4 blocks long, and 4 blocks deep.
1-7. Reposition yourself again.
You should now be facing the obsidian with the shorter end of the foundation on your left and the longer end to your right.
1-8. Add observer blocks.
Place an upward-facing observer on top of the obsidian, then add an upward facing observer two blocks up and one to the left.
1-9. Remove the block that's touching the bottom-left corner of the obsidian.
You should now have a two-block-wide, one-block-deep trench between you and the obsidian block.
1-10. Add slime blocks.
The slime blocks will go on top of (but not in) the trench.
1-11. Add your sticky pistons.
You'll place an upward-facing sticky piston on the right-most slime block and a downward-facing sticky piston on the left-most slime block.
You may have to dig a temporary hole in order to get the correct angle needed to place a downward-facing sticky piston.
1-12. Place a slime block on top of each of the sticky pistons.
This creates the base for your elevator floor.
1-13. Create the elevator's floor.
Place a block of your choice (preferably stone) on top of each of the slime blocks. You now have the apparatus that will act as the moving part of the elevator.
2. Creating the Elevator's Switch
2-1. Place a regular piston.
Face the three-wide wall so that the bottom observer block is on your right, then place the piston on the floor block immediately in front of you. The piston should be facing you and touching the corner of the observer block, leaving the space directly in front of the observer block free.
2-2. Place a stone block behind the piston.
This block should go directly behind the piston, leaving one row of space between the block and the back wall.
2-3. Create a stone "staircase" shape.
Place a stone block one up and one right from behind the piston, then place another stone block one up and one right from there. You should have a set of three stone blocks behind the piston in a staircase shape.
2-4. Add a stone block directly above the top staircase block at ground level.
This means you'll have to place a block on top of the top staircase block, place a stone block on top of that, and then remove the first block that you place.
2-5. Add redstone dust to the staircase.
Select redstone dust in your inventory, then select each of the three descending stone blocks.
Leave the floating stone block that you placed in the last step empty.
2-6. Add a button to the floating stone block.
This button should be on the side of the stone block that's facing your elevator's floor.
Do not press the button yet—doing so will cause the elevator floor and base to fly into the sky, never to be seen again.
3. Creating the Elevator's Top
3-1. Create a placeholder column on top of the top observer block.
Place a one-block-wide column of blocks on top of the top observer.
The placeholder should be as many blocks high as you want the elevator to be able to travel.
3-2. Place a block of obsidian at the top of the placeholder.
This is the block that will stop the elevator from traveling indefinitely.
3-3. Remove the placeholder.
Remove all blocks from the placeholder column, but make sure that you leave the obsidian block in place.
3-4. Activate your elevator.
Select the button next to the elevator's floor to do so. The elevator will travel up until it hits the obsidian block.
3-5. Add another piston.
To do this, face the floor with the block of obsidian closest to you, place a placeholder on the right-hand side of the observer block that's below the obsidian, and then place a piston on the placeholder block facing toward your left.
With the observer block's face looking at you, the piston should be facing left.
3-6. Remove the placeholder block.
You should now have a floating, left-facing piston.
3-7. Place a row of three stone blocks behind the piston.
Place the first block directly behind the piston, place the second block to the right of the first block, and place the third block to the right of the second block.
3-8. Add a floating stone block above the third stone block.
Place a block on top of the right-most stone block in the row, place a stone on top of that, and remove the first block that you placed in this step.
At this point, when facing the back of the piston, you should see a three-wide row of stone blocks with a floating stone block above the right-most block in the row.
3-9. Place redstone on the three-block column.
You'll be left with a three-block-long line of redstone dust.
3-10. Add the elevator's "Down" button.
This button should go on the side of the floating stone block that's facing the elevator's floor. You now have a fully functional elevator that will travel up and down with the push of a button.
You can dress up the elevator with walls, doors, and so on.
Tips
It's much easier to build a house around the elevator than it is to try to fit the elevator into a house.
You might consider building a second elevator and a platform connecting the two so that you always have one elevator up and one down.
Warnings
If you do build your elevator in Survival mode, make sure that you have a secondary staircase as well just in case your elevator is damaged or you fall off.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:20",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating the Elevator's Base\\n1-1. Dig the foundation.\\nCreate a four-block-wide, three-block-long, and four-block deep hole. Make sure that you do this below the area from which you want your elevator to launch.\\nFor example, if you have a basement's foundation laid out, you'll need to dig this hole in the bottom of the basement's foundation.\\n1-2. Face a three-block-wide side.\\nIt doesn't matter which side of the foundation you face.\\n1-3. Replace the middle block in the second row of the floor with obsidian.\\nThis means that the first row of the floor out from the three-wide wall will have no obsidian, but the next row will have a block of obsidian instead of a block of dirt (or stone, or whatever the floor's material is).\\n1-4. Reposition yourself.\\nStand behind the obsidian block and face the four-block-wide side, ensuring that the shorter side of the foundation is to your right and the longer end is to your left.\\nThis is extremely important, so make sure that you're positioned correctly before proceeding.\\n1-5. Remove the block between the obsidian block and the wall.\\nThis will create a one-block-deep hole in the floor of the foundation.\\n1-6. Remove a one-block perimeter from the foundation.\\nYour foundation should now be 5 blocks wide, 4 blocks long, and 4 blocks deep.\\n1-7. Reposition yourself again.\\nYou should now be facing the obsidian with the shorter end of the foundation on your left and the longer end to your right.\\n1-8. Add observer blocks.\\nPlace an upward-facing observer on top of the obsidian, then add an upward facing observer two blocks up and one to the left.\\n1-9. Remove the block that's touching the bottom-left corner of the obsidian.\\nYou should now have a two-block-wide, one-block-deep trench between you and the obsidian block.\\n1-10. Add slime blocks.\\nThe slime blocks will go on top of (but not in) the trench.\\n1-11. Add your sticky pistons.\\nYou'll place an upward-facing sticky piston on the right-most slime block and a downward-facing sticky piston on the left-most slime block.\\nYou may have to dig a temporary hole in order to get the correct angle needed to place a downward-facing sticky piston.\\n1-12. Place a slime block on top of each of the sticky pistons.\\nThis creates the base for your elevator floor.\\n1-13. Create the elevator's floor.\\nPlace a block of your choice (preferably stone) on top of each of the slime blocks. You now have the apparatus that will act as the moving part of the elevator.\\n2. Creating the Elevator's Switch\\n2-1. Place a regular piston.\\nFace the three-wide wall so that the bottom observer block is on your right, then place the piston on the floor block immediately in front of you. The piston should be facing you and touching the corner of the observer block, leaving the space directly in front of the observer block free.\\n2-2. Place a stone block behind the piston.\\nThis block should go directly behind the piston, leaving one row of space between the block and the back wall.\\n2-3. Create a stone \\\"staircase\\\" shape.\\nPlace a stone block one up and one right from behind the piston, then place another stone block one up and one right from there. You should have a set of three stone blocks behind the piston in a staircase shape.\\n2-4. Add a stone block directly above the top staircase block at ground level.\\nThis means you'll have to place a block on top of the top staircase block, place a stone block on top of that, and then remove the first block that you place.\\n2-5. Add redstone dust to the staircase.\\nSelect redstone dust in your inventory, then select each of the three descending stone blocks.\\nLeave the floating stone block that you placed in the last step empty.\\n2-6. Add a button to the floating stone block.\\nThis button should be on the side of the stone block that's facing your elevator's floor.\\nDo not press the button yet—doing so will cause the elevator floor and base to fly into the sky, never to be seen again.\\n3. Creating the Elevator's Top\\n3-1. Create a placeholder column on top of the top observer block.\\nPlace a one-block-wide column of blocks on top of the top observer.\\nThe placeholder should be as many blocks high as you want the elevator to be able to travel.\\n3-2. Place a block of obsidian at the top of the placeholder.\\nThis is the block that will stop the elevator from traveling indefinitely.\\n3-3. Remove the placeholder.\\nRemove all blocks from the placeholder column, but make sure that you leave the obsidian block in place.\\n3-4. Activate your elevator.\\nSelect the button next to the elevator's floor to do so. The elevator will travel up until it hits the obsidian block.\\n3-5. Add another piston.\\nTo do this, face the floor with the block of obsidian closest to you, place a placeholder on the right-hand side of the observer block that's below the obsidian, and then place a piston on the placeholder block facing toward your left.\\nWith the observer block's face looking at you, the piston should be facing left.\\n3-6. Remove the placeholder block.\\nYou should now have a floating, left-facing piston.\\n3-7. Place a row of three stone blocks behind the piston.\\nPlace the first block directly behind the piston, place the second block to the right of the first block, and place the third block to the right of the second block.\\n3-8. Add a floating stone block above the third stone block.\\nPlace a block on top of the right-most stone block in the row, place a stone on top of that, and remove the first block that you placed in this step.\\nAt this point, when facing the back of the piston, you should see a three-wide row of stone blocks with a floating stone block above the right-most block in the row.\\n3-9. Place redstone on the three-block column.\\nYou'll be left with a three-block-long line of redstone dust.\\n3-10. Add the elevator's \\\"Down\\\" button.\\nThis button should go on the side of the floating stone block that's facing the elevator's floor. You now have a fully functional elevator that will travel up and down with the push of a button.\\nYou can dress up the elevator with walls, doors, and so on.\\nTips\\nIt's much easier to build a house around the elevator than it is to try to fit the elevator into a house.\\nYou might consider building a second elevator and a platform connecting the two so that you always have one elevator up and one down.\\nWarnings\\nIf you do build your elevator in Survival mode, make sure that you have a secondary staircase as well just in case your elevator is damaged or you fall off.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This article teaches you how to build a working elevator in Minecraft. While it's possible to build an elevator using advanced Survival mode materials, you'll usually want to create this elevator in Creative mode. The elevator template used in this article will work on desktop, Pocket Edition, and console versions of Minecraft (including the Nintendo Switch).\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating the Elevator's Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Create a four-block-wide, three-block-long, and four-block deep hole. Make sure that you do this below the area from which you want your elevator to launch.\\nFor example, if you have a basement's foundation laid out, you'll need to dig this hole in the bottom of the basement's foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Face a three-block-wide side.\", \"描述\": \"It doesn't matter which side of the foundation you face.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Replace the middle block in the second row of the floor with obsidian.\", \"描述\": \"This means that the first row of the floor out from the three-wide wall will have no obsidian, but the next row will have a block of obsidian instead of a block of dirt (or stone, or whatever the floor's material is).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Reposition yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Stand behind the obsidian block and face the four-block-wide side, ensuring that the shorter side of the foundation is to your right and the longer end is to your left.\\nThis is extremely important, so make sure that you're positioned correctly before proceeding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Remove the block between the obsidian block and the wall.\", \"描述\": \"This will create a one-block-deep hole in the floor of the foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove a one-block perimeter from the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Your foundation should now be 5 blocks wide, 4 blocks long, and 4 blocks deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Reposition yourself again.\", \"描述\": \"You should now be facing the obsidian with the shorter end of the foundation on your left and the longer end to your right.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add observer blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Place an upward-facing observer on top of the obsidian, then add an upward facing observer two blocks up and one to the left.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Remove the block that's touching the bottom-left corner of the obsidian.\", \"描述\": \"You should now have a two-block-wide, one-block-deep trench between you and the obsidian block.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add slime blocks.\", \"描述\": \"The slime blocks will go on top of (but not in) the trench.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Add your sticky pistons.\", \"描述\": \"You'll place an upward-facing sticky piston on the right-most slime block and a downward-facing sticky piston on the left-most slime block.\\nYou may have to dig a temporary hole in order to get the correct angle needed to place a downward-facing sticky piston.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Place a slime block on top of each of the sticky pistons.\", \"描述\": \"This creates the base for your elevator floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Create the elevator's floor.\", \"描述\": \"Place a block of your choice (preferably stone) on top of each of the slime blocks. You now have the apparatus that will act as the moving part of the elevator.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Elevator's Switch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a regular piston.\", \"描述\": \"Face the three-wide wall so that the bottom observer block is on your right, then place the piston on the floor block immediately in front of you. The piston should be facing you and touching the corner of the observer block, leaving the space directly in front of the observer block free.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a stone block behind the piston.\", \"描述\": \"This block should go directly behind the piston, leaving one row of space between the block and the back wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a stone \\\"staircase\\\" shape.\", \"描述\": \"Place a stone block one up and one right from behind the piston, then place another stone block one up and one right from there. You should have a set of three stone blocks behind the piston in a staircase shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a stone block directly above the top staircase block at ground level.\", \"描述\": \"This means you'll have to place a block on top of the top staircase block, place a stone block on top of that, and then remove the first block that you place.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add redstone dust to the staircase.\", \"描述\": \"Select redstone dust in your inventory, then select each of the three descending stone blocks.\\nLeave the floating stone block that you placed in the last step empty.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a button to the floating stone block.\", \"描述\": \"This button should be on the side of the stone block that's facing your elevator's floor.\\nDo not press the button yet—doing so will cause the elevator floor and base to fly into the sky, never to be seen again.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating the Elevator's Top\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a placeholder column on top of the top observer block.\", \"描述\": \"Place a one-block-wide column of blocks on top of the top observer.\\nThe placeholder should be as many blocks high as you want the elevator to be able to travel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place a block of obsidian at the top of the placeholder.\", \"描述\": \"This is the block that will stop the elevator from traveling indefinitely.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the placeholder.\", \"描述\": \"Remove all blocks from the placeholder column, but make sure that you leave the obsidian block in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Activate your elevator.\", \"描述\": \"Select the button next to the elevator's floor to do so. The elevator will travel up until it hits the obsidian block.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add another piston.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, face the floor with the block of obsidian closest to you, place a placeholder on the right-hand side of the observer block that's below the obsidian, and then place a piston on the placeholder block facing toward your left.\\nWith the observer block's face looking at you, the piston should be facing left.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove the placeholder block.\", \"描述\": \"You should now have a floating, left-facing piston.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a row of three stone blocks behind the piston.\", \"描述\": \"Place the first block directly behind the piston, place the second block to the right of the first block, and place the third block to the right of the second block.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add a floating stone block above the third stone block.\", \"描述\": \"Place a block on top of the right-most stone block in the row, place a stone on top of that, and remove the first block that you placed in this step.\\nAt this point, when facing the back of the piston, you should see a three-wide row of stone blocks with a floating stone block above the right-most block in the row.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place redstone on the three-block column.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be left with a three-block-long line of redstone dust.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add the elevator's \\\"Down\\\" button.\", \"描述\": \"This button should go on the side of the floating stone block that's facing the elevator's floor. You now have a fully functional elevator that will travel up and down with the push of a button.\\nYou can dress up the elevator with walls, doors, and so on.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It's much easier to build a house around the elevator than it is to try to fit the elevator into a house.\\n\", \"You might consider building a second elevator and a platform connecting the two so that you always have one elevator up and one down.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you do build your elevator in Survival mode, make sure that you have a secondary staircase as well just in case your elevator is damaged or you fall off.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,655 |
How to Build an Emergency Winter Shelter
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1. Preparing to Build
1-1. Assess available building resources-- materials, supplies of any kind, manpower, and daylight.
This seemingly short and less important step will actually be the factor that decides between success (survival) and failure (dirt nap). Knowing what you have to work with and how much time to build shelter is the key to surviving cold and snowy weather in the short run. Make use of anything you have and plan to work with whatever is provided by nature.
The amount of manpower you have is limited by injuries, strength, and the general health of you and all other survivors. Even injured persons who can not walk can use their hands to fabricate materials for the shelters so plan to include everyone in the effort.
1-2. Try to work during daylight.
The ability to see is vital. Working in the dark is dangerous and it slows progress greatly, so recognize how much time you have until sundown.
1-3. Prepare the ground of the shelter.
For a single person shelter you must clear any snow, ice, and debris away to form an area large enough for the survivor to lay down with no more than six inches of space on either side of their body. The space should run so that the short ends line up with the wind direction or to the north and south.
1-4. Pad the ground.
After clearing this spot of any wet debris it must be padded with materials that are as dry as possible. Pine boughs can be 'slapped' against a tree trunk to knock water, ice, and snow off to dry the materials.
Any man made materials you have access to can be used as well: Floor mats from a car, seat cushions, plastic grocery sacks filled with leaves... Anything that will distance you from the ground and keep you dry. The ground steals heat rapidly and water pools in low spots so this step is critical.
1-5. Gather materials to construct a frame to cover the prepared ground space.
If possible, locate a long branch or pole that is ideally about a foot taller than the person to be sheltered. This 'spine' will be what sits above the body of the survivor and to which the sidewalls of the shelter will be laid. If you have access to fallen trees that are still attached to their stump you can use the space beneath the fallen trunk as a great start to your shelter.
2. Building the Shelter
2-1. Raise the spine on one end of the shelter to form the opening by which you enter and exit the shelter.
Looking at the arrangement from the side will make it appear to be a 30-60-90 degree triangle with the opening at the 60-90 degree angle side. The 90 degree angle is on the ground and it stretches all the way to the the other end of the shelter where the 30 degree angle forms at the closed back end of the shelter. The survivors feet will be down in the space where the spine pole touches the ground and forms that 30 degree angle.
2-2. Take two branches of about three to five feet in length and lay them side by side.
Lash them together with any cord, rope, wire, tape, or vines you can find. When you grasp the untied ends and pull them away from each other the lashing will tighten and provide a sturdy prop to lay the spine pole on.
These two branches will form a 45 degree triangle to hold the spine up off of the ground. The mouth of the shelter will form a 45 degree triangle with the longest side being the ground the two poles are set on and the point of the triangle above it. The point of the triangle is where the spine branch will rest because the two branches cross and form a small "X" to set the spine on.
2-3. Build your shelter's "skeleton."
Stab smaller branches into the ground and lean them against the spine pole from the front of the shelter down its length towards the 30 degree end of the shelter. They should look like skeletal 'ribs'.
2-4. Find materials to cover the frame.
Any water proofing materials you have will be put to good use in this step but you can still do it without any man made materials.
2-5. Break off small leaf covered or pine needle branches.
Lay them against the 'ribs' with the broken end of the branch pointing up at the spine pole.
2-6. Repeat with a second row of these branches.
Lay them above the first just like the shingles on the roof of a home. This deflects rain and snow and layers insulation over the frame.
2-7. Add more cover.
Crush flat standing weeds and lay them over the branches as well. The goal is to evenly heap water proofing natural materials over the frame not only to keep you dry but to insulate you as well. A plastic tarp, split open plastic trash bags, or rubber floor mats could be draped over the frame and if done properly would keep you dry but would provide little to no insulation.
The idea is to block all light from being seen while in the shelter. Pinpoints of light mean air (and heat) can easily escape from the inside. Covering the shelter with as much insulating material as possible is limited by the strength of your spine pole and of course the amount of available materials.
Even in an open field you can gather bunches of field grasses and make a 'pile' shelter, so covering your 'A' frame should not prove too difficult. Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with to keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.
3. Finishing the Shelter
3-1. Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with.
This will keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.
3-2. Add final touches.
Any materials you have can be stored inside the shelter with you including your drinking water to prevent it from freezing. If built properly this type of shelter can be slept in without heavy clothing and still be adequate enough for survival if not comfortable as well.
3-3. Close off the shelter.
Once the survivor and up to one other guest back into the shelter through the triangle opening at its mouth, they will need to close off the opening. Backpacks, a trash bag full of leaves, or a small frame of sticks tied together and strung with as much materials as possible can be used.
Feel free to 'stuff' the interior of the shelter with dry grasses, leaves, or other materials (rugs, blankets, pillows). The extra padding will help keep you warm as well.
3-4. Finished.
Tips
If you have a second person to protect from the weather, now is not the time to be shy. Cuddle up and stay as warm as possible together in the shelter that hopefully you both built instead of two separate shelters.
Small shelters are better in an emergency. You might not be able to start a fire and the shelter described above is heated by your own body's waste heat.
Making a "t" shaped cross several feet tall and planting it near your shelter will help rescue teams find you as this shape does not normally appear in nature. Attach shiny materials or aluminum cans to it to flash sunlight at rescue aircraft if possible.
Warnings
Keep any bottled water near your body as it takes a long time (and a lot of heat) to melt a frozen container of water back to liquid again.
A candle could be used for light and warmth within the shelter but care must be given to avoid burning up all of your hard work and possibly killing you.
Inside the shelter, especially if covered in a blanket of snow, you will not be able to hear much of the outside world. The calls of rescuers may not be noticed by you.
Be careful not to let snow or ice encase your door. Having a stick or tool inside the shelter with you to break through any snow or ice will work wonders.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build\\n1-1. Assess available building resources-- materials, supplies of any kind, manpower, and daylight.\\nThis seemingly short and less important step will actually be the factor that decides between success (survival) and failure (dirt nap). Knowing what you have to work with and how much time to build shelter is the key to surviving cold and snowy weather in the short run. Make use of anything you have and plan to work with whatever is provided by nature.\\nThe amount of manpower you have is limited by injuries, strength, and the general health of you and all other survivors. Even injured persons who can not walk can use their hands to fabricate materials for the shelters so plan to include everyone in the effort.\\n1-2. Try to work during daylight.\\nThe ability to see is vital. Working in the dark is dangerous and it slows progress greatly, so recognize how much time you have until sundown.\\n1-3. Prepare the ground of the shelter.\\nFor a single person shelter you must clear any snow, ice, and debris away to form an area large enough for the survivor to lay down with no more than six inches of space on either side of their body. The space should run so that the short ends line up with the wind direction or to the north and south.\\n1-4. Pad the ground.\\nAfter clearing this spot of any wet debris it must be padded with materials that are as dry as possible. Pine boughs can be 'slapped' against a tree trunk to knock water, ice, and snow off to dry the materials.\\nAny man made materials you have access to can be used as well: Floor mats from a car, seat cushions, plastic grocery sacks filled with leaves... Anything that will distance you from the ground and keep you dry. The ground steals heat rapidly and water pools in low spots so this step is critical.\\n1-5. Gather materials to construct a frame to cover the prepared ground space.\\nIf possible, locate a long branch or pole that is ideally about a foot taller than the person to be sheltered. This 'spine' will be what sits above the body of the survivor and to which the sidewalls of the shelter will be laid. If you have access to fallen trees that are still attached to their stump you can use the space beneath the fallen trunk as a great start to your shelter.\\n2. Building the Shelter\\n2-1. Raise the spine on one end of the shelter to form the opening by which you enter and exit the shelter.\\nLooking at the arrangement from the side will make it appear to be a 30-60-90 degree triangle with the opening at the 60-90 degree angle side. The 90 degree angle is on the ground and it stretches all the way to the the other end of the shelter where the 30 degree angle forms at the closed back end of the shelter. The survivors feet will be down in the space where the spine pole touches the ground and forms that 30 degree angle.\\n2-2. Take two branches of about three to five feet in length and lay them side by side.\\nLash them together with any cord, rope, wire, tape, or vines you can find. When you grasp the untied ends and pull them away from each other the lashing will tighten and provide a sturdy prop to lay the spine pole on.\\nThese two branches will form a 45 degree triangle to hold the spine up off of the ground. The mouth of the shelter will form a 45 degree triangle with the longest side being the ground the two poles are set on and the point of the triangle above it. The point of the triangle is where the spine branch will rest because the two branches cross and form a small \\\"X\\\" to set the spine on.\\n2-3. Build your shelter's \\\"skeleton.\\\"\\nStab smaller branches into the ground and lean them against the spine pole from the front of the shelter down its length towards the 30 degree end of the shelter. They should look like skeletal 'ribs'.\\n2-4. Find materials to cover the frame.\\nAny water proofing materials you have will be put to good use in this step but you can still do it without any man made materials.\\n2-5. Break off small leaf covered or pine needle branches.\\nLay them against the 'ribs' with the broken end of the branch pointing up at the spine pole.\\n2-6. Repeat with a second row of these branches.\\nLay them above the first just like the shingles on the roof of a home. This deflects rain and snow and layers insulation over the frame.\\n2-7. Add more cover.\\nCrush flat standing weeds and lay them over the branches as well. The goal is to evenly heap water proofing natural materials over the frame not only to keep you dry but to insulate you as well. A plastic tarp, split open plastic trash bags, or rubber floor mats could be draped over the frame and if done properly would keep you dry but would provide little to no insulation.\\nThe idea is to block all light from being seen while in the shelter. Pinpoints of light mean air (and heat) can easily escape from the inside. Covering the shelter with as much insulating material as possible is limited by the strength of your spine pole and of course the amount of available materials.\\nEven in an open field you can gather bunches of field grasses and make a 'pile' shelter, so covering your 'A' frame should not prove too difficult. Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with to keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.\\n3. Finishing the Shelter\\n3-1. Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with.\\nThis will keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.\\n3-2. Add final touches.\\nAny materials you have can be stored inside the shelter with you including your drinking water to prevent it from freezing. If built properly this type of shelter can be slept in without heavy clothing and still be adequate enough for survival if not comfortable as well.\\n3-3. Close off the shelter.\\nOnce the survivor and up to one other guest back into the shelter through the triangle opening at its mouth, they will need to close off the opening. Backpacks, a trash bag full of leaves, or a small frame of sticks tied together and strung with as much materials as possible can be used.\\nFeel free to 'stuff' the interior of the shelter with dry grasses, leaves, or other materials (rugs, blankets, pillows). The extra padding will help keep you warm as well.\\n3-4. Finished.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you have a second person to protect from the weather, now is not the time to be shy. Cuddle up and stay as warm as possible together in the shelter that hopefully you both built instead of two separate shelters.\\nSmall shelters are better in an emergency. You might not be able to start a fire and the shelter described above is heated by your own body's waste heat.\\nMaking a \\\"t\\\" shaped cross several feet tall and planting it near your shelter will help rescue teams find you as this shape does not normally appear in nature. Attach shiny materials or aluminum cans to it to flash sunlight at rescue aircraft if possible.\\nWarnings\\nKeep any bottled water near your body as it takes a long time (and a lot of heat) to melt a frozen container of water back to liquid again.\\nA candle could be used for light and warmth within the shelter but care must be given to avoid burning up all of your hard work and possibly killing you.\\nInside the shelter, especially if covered in a blanket of snow, you will not be able to hear much of the outside world. The calls of rescuers may not be noticed by you.\\nBe careful not to let snow or ice encase your door. Having a stick or tool inside the shelter with you to break through any snow or ice will work wonders.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you ever find yourself injured or lost in a winter wilderness area, you may need to craft an effective emergency winter shelter. This design can be used by you and others in your party, requires few or no tools, and takes only a short time to build. The shelter can be expanded for a second occupant and repeated for additional people needing shelter.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assess available building resources-- materials, supplies of any kind, manpower, and daylight.\", \"描述\": \"This seemingly short and less important step will actually be the factor that decides between success (survival) and failure (dirt nap). Knowing what you have to work with and how much time to build shelter is the key to surviving cold and snowy weather in the short run. Make use of anything you have and plan to work with whatever is provided by nature.\\nThe amount of manpower you have is limited by injuries, strength, and the general health of you and all other survivors. Even injured persons who can not walk can use their hands to fabricate materials for the shelters so plan to include everyone in the effort.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try to work during daylight.\", \"描述\": \"The ability to see is vital. Working in the dark is dangerous and it slows progress greatly, so recognize how much time you have until sundown.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the ground of the shelter.\", \"描述\": \"For a single person shelter you must clear any snow, ice, and debris away to form an area large enough for the survivor to lay down with no more than six inches of space on either side of their body. The space should run so that the short ends line up with the wind direction or to the north and south.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pad the ground.\", \"描述\": \"After clearing this spot of any wet debris it must be padded with materials that are as dry as possible. Pine boughs can be 'slapped' against a tree trunk to knock water, ice, and snow off to dry the materials.\\nAny man made materials you have access to can be used as well: Floor mats from a car, seat cushions, plastic grocery sacks filled with leaves... Anything that will distance you from the ground and keep you dry. The ground steals heat rapidly and water pools in low spots so this step is critical.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Gather materials to construct a frame to cover the prepared ground space.\", \"描述\": \"If possible, locate a long branch or pole that is ideally about a foot taller than the person to be sheltered. This 'spine' will be what sits above the body of the survivor and to which the sidewalls of the shelter will be laid. If you have access to fallen trees that are still attached to their stump you can use the space beneath the fallen trunk as a great start to your shelter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Raise the spine on one end of the shelter to form the opening by which you enter and exit the shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Looking at the arrangement from the side will make it appear to be a 30-60-90 degree triangle with the opening at the 60-90 degree angle side. The 90 degree angle is on the ground and it stretches all the way to the the other end of the shelter where the 30 degree angle forms at the closed back end of the shelter. The survivors feet will be down in the space where the spine pole touches the ground and forms that 30 degree angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take two branches of about three to five feet in length and lay them side by side.\", \"描述\": \"Lash them together with any cord, rope, wire, tape, or vines you can find. When you grasp the untied ends and pull them away from each other the lashing will tighten and provide a sturdy prop to lay the spine pole on.\\nThese two branches will form a 45 degree triangle to hold the spine up off of the ground. The mouth of the shelter will form a 45 degree triangle with the longest side being the ground the two poles are set on and the point of the triangle above it. The point of the triangle is where the spine branch will rest because the two branches cross and form a small \\\"X\\\" to set the spine on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build your shelter's \\\"skeleton.\\\"\", \"描述\": \"Stab smaller branches into the ground and lean them against the spine pole from the front of the shelter down its length towards the 30 degree end of the shelter. They should look like skeletal 'ribs'.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find materials to cover the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Any water proofing materials you have will be put to good use in this step but you can still do it without any man made materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Break off small leaf covered or pine needle branches.\", \"描述\": \"Lay them against the 'ribs' with the broken end of the branch pointing up at the spine pole.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Repeat with a second row of these branches.\", \"描述\": \"Lay them above the first just like the shingles on the roof of a home. This deflects rain and snow and layers insulation over the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add more cover.\", \"描述\": \"Crush flat standing weeds and lay them over the branches as well. The goal is to evenly heap water proofing natural materials over the frame not only to keep you dry but to insulate you as well. A plastic tarp, split open plastic trash bags, or rubber floor mats could be draped over the frame and if done properly would keep you dry but would provide little to no insulation.\\nThe idea is to block all light from being seen while in the shelter. Pinpoints of light mean air (and heat) can easily escape from the inside. Covering the shelter with as much insulating material as possible is limited by the strength of your spine pole and of course the amount of available materials.\\nEven in an open field you can gather bunches of field grasses and make a 'pile' shelter, so covering your 'A' frame should not prove too difficult. Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with to keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Weigh down any materials you cover the frame with.\", \"描述\": \"This will keep them from blowing away in the wind. Mud, branches, and even snow will hold the materials down. Also, snow is a natural insulator.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add final touches.\", \"描述\": \"Any materials you have can be stored inside the shelter with you including your drinking water to prevent it from freezing. If built properly this type of shelter can be slept in without heavy clothing and still be adequate enough for survival if not comfortable as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Close off the shelter.\", \"描述\": \"Once the survivor and up to one other guest back into the shelter through the triangle opening at its mouth, they will need to close off the opening. Backpacks, a trash bag full of leaves, or a small frame of sticks tied together and strung with as much materials as possible can be used.\\nFeel free to 'stuff' the interior of the shelter with dry grasses, leaves, or other materials (rugs, blankets, pillows). The extra padding will help keep you warm as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have a second person to protect from the weather, now is not the time to be shy. Cuddle up and stay as warm as possible together in the shelter that hopefully you both built instead of two separate shelters.\\n\", \"Small shelters are better in an emergency. You might not be able to start a fire and the shelter described above is heated by your own body's waste heat.\\n\", \"Making a \\\"t\\\" shaped cross several feet tall and planting it near your shelter will help rescue teams find you as this shape does not normally appear in nature. Attach shiny materials or aluminum cans to it to flash sunlight at rescue aircraft if possible.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep any bottled water near your body as it takes a long time (and a lot of heat) to melt a frozen container of water back to liquid again.\\n\", \"A candle could be used for light and warmth within the shelter but care must be given to avoid burning up all of your hard work and possibly killing you.\\n\", \"Inside the shelter, especially if covered in a blanket of snow, you will not be able to hear much of the outside world. The calls of rescuers may not be noticed by you.\\n\", \"Be careful not to let snow or ice encase your door. Having a stick or tool inside the shelter with you to break through any snow or ice will work wonders.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,656 |
How to Build an Equatorial Wedge for Your Telescope
|
1. Steps
1-1. Identify the latitude for your chosen viewing location.
For amateur purposes, you only need to narrow it down to an accuracy of one tenth of a degree, rounded up to the nearest tenth. For example, downtown Boston is located at 42.3 degrees north latitude. Write this down -- you will need it later on. There are several ways you can obtain the coordinates for the location.
With any GPS that can display your position (on a Garmin device, for example, the "Where am I?" screen will show your current coordinates).
Any smartphone app such as GPS Status that can do the same using the internal GPS.
With Google Earth
With Google Maps.
1-2. Measure the base of your telescope mount.
You will need to measure the length and width of the mount. Assuming that you already made sure your plank of wood is at least four inches wider than the mount, add four inches to the length of the mount at the base.
1-3. From the edge of the plank, measure the distance to match the number of inches or mm calculated in step 2.
Draw a line with the pencil across from edge to edge. From that line, measure twice the distance and draw a second line. Halfway between, draw a third line. The first measurement will give you the wood for the base mount, the second for the longer plank that will bolt to the top of the telescope tripod. In the end you should have three lines, all the same distance from each other.
1-4. Cut the plank.
You will first cut one smaller piece for the telescope mount and a second piece, twice as long, for the tripod base. That piece will have the line you drew right across the middle.
1-5. Mark the centers.
On the smaller piece, mark the center by drawing two lines diagonally from the corners. On the larger piece, do the same but from the edge to the line drawn halfway down its length.
1-6. Measure and mark the bolt holes.
This part is tricky. You will need to measure the distance from the center of the telescope mount to the center of the bolt holes as well as the angles in order to mark and drill the holes. You'll need to do the same for the bolt holes on the top of the tripod, but keep in mind that the bolt hole layout may be different, so don't assume they are the same.
1-7. Drill the bolt holes.
You may have to adjust a bit and make the holes oversize to get them to fit properly. That's OK, as long as you use washers the boards will not move on the tripod. On the smaller board, use a jigsaw or small saw to cut from the edge of the board to the bolt hole whose radius is perpendicular to the edge, as shown in this image. The cuts should create a slot whose sides align with the edges of the drilled hole. This will make it easier to mount the telescope base to the wedge.
1-8. Install the hinge.
If you have not done so already, cut the piano hinge to the width of the board for the telescope mount. Carefully align the hinge on the line you drew halfway down the length, clamp it down and install one side of it using two wood screws on each end. You can then remove the clamp. Place the telescope mount board next to the hinge with the slot cut away from the hinge, hold it as close to the hinge as possible and screw it to the side edge of the board. The hinge should touch the base and the telescope mount board should hinge up, as shown in the image.
1-9. Bolt the wedge to the top of the telescope mount, making sure you use washers on each bolt.
1-10. Decide how you will support the telescope mount base.
At this point you can do one of two things. You can cut triangular pieces of wood to insert underneath the telescope mount board and hold it at a fixed angle, or you can cut larger pieces to attach on the outside of the long base board to support the telescope mount, but also give you the ability to modify the angle if needed. The tricky part here is the geometry. The top surface of the telescope base mount must be raised to an angle equal to the latitude of your location (you did write that down in step 1, right?) That angle needs to be as accurate as possible, but for amateur purposes the tolerances need not be microscopic.
1-11. Build the supports.
In my case, I used two pieces of wood, cut them roughly to the shape of a slice of pizza, with the radius about an inch longer than 1/2 the length of the telescope base mount board, and attached it to the outside of the wedge with screws. You can (and probably should) use a wood router to make dado cuts and apply glue. I used wood screws.
1-12. Raise the board to the desired angle.
Remember to measure the angle of the top surface of the board. Triple-check the angle, secure the board and drill holes on each side slightly smaller than the wood screws and into the edge of the board. Insert screws.
1-13. At this point you should have a working wedge.
All you need is a clear night, and an understanding of how to polar align the telescope. The shelf under the telescope mount board can be used to store eyepieces, or a larger battery to power the scope's electronics. Sand everything down to remove any splinters and sharp edges and finish to your preference.
1-14. You now have a platform for astrophotography!
Enjoy!
Tips
The reason a wedge is needed for astrophotography is that if you do not align the telescope to true north, a photographic exposure of any significant length will show trails on all points of light except the one at the center of the image.
Warnings
Wear safety glasses at all times when performing the construction, cutting wood, painting, etc.
If your telescope mount and OTA (optical tube assembly) are large, the wedge will make them even heavier. Be careful when moving the unit, and check the tripod's specifications to make sure it can handle the additional weight of the wedge.
For a large OTA (11" or more) you should considering purchasing a fork mount rather than building a wedge. Such a large telescope would require a much larger mounting base to distribute the weight, and the thickness of the wood used would have to be increased as well for the same reason. A fork mount would allow you to locate the center of gravity of the OTA over the vertical axis of the telescope, making it much safer to handle. You may want to search the Internet for "DIY FORK MOUNT" for construction ideas, as you would not be reinventing the wheel.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Identify the latitude for your chosen viewing location.\\nFor amateur purposes, you only need to narrow it down to an accuracy of one tenth of a degree, rounded up to the nearest tenth. For example, downtown Boston is located at 42.3 degrees north latitude. Write this down -- you will need it later on. There are several ways you can obtain the coordinates for the location.\\nWith any GPS that can display your position (on a Garmin device, for example, the \\\"Where am I?\\\" screen will show your current coordinates).\\nAny smartphone app such as GPS Status that can do the same using the internal GPS.\\nWith Google Earth\\nWith Google Maps.\\n1-2. Measure the base of your telescope mount.\\nYou will need to measure the length and width of the mount. Assuming that you already made sure your plank of wood is at least four inches wider than the mount, add four inches to the length of the mount at the base.\\n1-3. From the edge of the plank, measure the distance to match the number of inches or mm calculated in step 2.\\nDraw a line with the pencil across from edge to edge. From that line, measure twice the distance and draw a second line. Halfway between, draw a third line. The first measurement will give you the wood for the base mount, the second for the longer plank that will bolt to the top of the telescope tripod. In the end you should have three lines, all the same distance from each other.\\n1-4. Cut the plank.\\nYou will first cut one smaller piece for the telescope mount and a second piece, twice as long, for the tripod base. That piece will have the line you drew right across the middle.\\n1-5. Mark the centers.\\nOn the smaller piece, mark the center by drawing two lines diagonally from the corners. On the larger piece, do the same but from the edge to the line drawn halfway down its length.\\n1-6. Measure and mark the bolt holes.\\nThis part is tricky. You will need to measure the distance from the center of the telescope mount to the center of the bolt holes as well as the angles in order to mark and drill the holes. You'll need to do the same for the bolt holes on the top of the tripod, but keep in mind that the bolt hole layout may be different, so don't assume they are the same.\\n1-7. Drill the bolt holes.\\nYou may have to adjust a bit and make the holes oversize to get them to fit properly. That's OK, as long as you use washers the boards will not move on the tripod. On the smaller board, use a jigsaw or small saw to cut from the edge of the board to the bolt hole whose radius is perpendicular to the edge, as shown in this image. The cuts should create a slot whose sides align with the edges of the drilled hole. This will make it easier to mount the telescope base to the wedge.\\n1-8. Install the hinge.\\nIf you have not done so already, cut the piano hinge to the width of the board for the telescope mount. Carefully align the hinge on the line you drew halfway down the length, clamp it down and install one side of it using two wood screws on each end. You can then remove the clamp. Place the telescope mount board next to the hinge with the slot cut away from the hinge, hold it as close to the hinge as possible and screw it to the side edge of the board. The hinge should touch the base and the telescope mount board should hinge up, as shown in the image.\\n1-9. Bolt the wedge to the top of the telescope mount, making sure you use washers on each bolt.\\n\\n1-10. Decide how you will support the telescope mount base.\\nAt this point you can do one of two things. You can cut triangular pieces of wood to insert underneath the telescope mount board and hold it at a fixed angle, or you can cut larger pieces to attach on the outside of the long base board to support the telescope mount, but also give you the ability to modify the angle if needed. The tricky part here is the geometry. The top surface of the telescope base mount must be raised to an angle equal to the latitude of your location (you did write that down in step 1, right?) That angle needs to be as accurate as possible, but for amateur purposes the tolerances need not be microscopic.\\n1-11. Build the supports.\\nIn my case, I used two pieces of wood, cut them roughly to the shape of a slice of pizza, with the radius about an inch longer than 1/2 the length of the telescope base mount board, and attached it to the outside of the wedge with screws. You can (and probably should) use a wood router to make dado cuts and apply glue. I used wood screws.\\n1-12. Raise the board to the desired angle.\\nRemember to measure the angle of the top surface of the board. Triple-check the angle, secure the board and drill holes on each side slightly smaller than the wood screws and into the edge of the board. Insert screws.\\n1-13. At this point you should have a working wedge.\\nAll you need is a clear night, and an understanding of how to polar align the telescope. The shelf under the telescope mount board can be used to store eyepieces, or a larger battery to power the scope's electronics. Sand everything down to remove any splinters and sharp edges and finish to your preference.\\n1-14. You now have a platform for astrophotography!\\nEnjoy!\\nTips\\nThe reason a wedge is needed for astrophotography is that if you do not align the telescope to true north, a photographic exposure of any significant length will show trails on all points of light except the one at the center of the image.\\nWarnings\\nWear safety glasses at all times when performing the construction, cutting wood, painting, etc.\\nIf your telescope mount and OTA (optical tube assembly) are large, the wedge will make them even heavier. Be careful when moving the unit, and check the tripod's specifications to make sure it can handle the additional weight of the wedge.\\nFor a large OTA (11\\\" or more) you should considering purchasing a fork mount rather than building a wedge. Such a large telescope would require a much larger mounting base to distribute the weight, and the thickness of the wood used would have to be increased as well for the same reason. A fork mount would allow you to locate the center of gravity of the OTA over the vertical axis of the telescope, making it much safer to handle. You may want to search the Internet for \\\"DIY FORK MOUNT\\\" for construction ideas, as you would not be reinventing the wheel.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Astronomy is a very popular hobby. Humans have been interested in the things they can see in the sky since before recorded history, and that interest shows no sign of abating. There are many brands and types of telescopes out there. The vast majority of affordable amateur telescopes that you can purchase come with what are known as \\\"alt-azimuth\\\" mounts. This means that the telescope's OTA (Optical Tube Assembly) can be pivoted up and down (altitude) and right or left (azimuth).These are fine for visual observation and short exposure photography, but if you want to try your hand at astrophotography, you will need to mount your telescope on an equatorial (EQ) mount that allows you to align your telescope with the latitude at your location.Upgrading your alt-az mount to equatorial can be expensive, though. Commercial EQ wedges will run you anywhere from $200 up. Equatorial mounts can also be expensive, particularly if they are computerized for \\\"Go To\\\" capability. Used ones can be obtained for less, but why buy one when you can build your own and learn something new in the process?This article will walk you through the construction of a simple, fixed-elevation equatorial wedge. Most amateur astronomers observe the sky from the same place every night, so a fixed-angle wedge is all that is needed. This one, however, can easily be modified to allow adjustment if you so desire.The images depict a wedge for a Celestron NexStar 6SE 6\\\" Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope, but with a little ingenuity and some elbow grease the concepts can be applied to any telescope mount.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify the latitude for your chosen viewing location.\", \"描述\": \"For amateur purposes, you only need to narrow it down to an accuracy of one tenth of a degree, rounded up to the nearest tenth. For example, downtown Boston is located at 42.3 degrees north latitude. Write this down -- you will need it later on. There are several ways you can obtain the coordinates for the location.\\nWith any GPS that can display your position (on a Garmin device, for example, the \\\"Where am I?\\\" screen will show your current coordinates).\\nAny smartphone app such as GPS Status that can do the same using the internal GPS.\\nWith Google Earth\\nWith Google Maps.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the base of your telescope mount.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to measure the length and width of the mount. Assuming that you already made sure your plank of wood is at least four inches wider than the mount, add four inches to the length of the mount at the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"From the edge of the plank, measure the distance to match the number of inches or mm calculated in step 2.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a line with the pencil across from edge to edge. From that line, measure twice the distance and draw a second line. Halfway between, draw a third line. The first measurement will give you the wood for the base mount, the second for the longer plank that will bolt to the top of the telescope tripod. In the end you should have three lines, all the same distance from each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the plank.\", \"描述\": \"You will first cut one smaller piece for the telescope mount and a second piece, twice as long, for the tripod base. That piece will have the line you drew right across the middle.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mark the centers.\", \"描述\": \"On the smaller piece, mark the center by drawing two lines diagonally from the corners. On the larger piece, do the same but from the edge to the line drawn halfway down its length.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark the bolt holes.\", \"描述\": \"This part is tricky. You will need to measure the distance from the center of the telescope mount to the center of the bolt holes as well as the angles in order to mark and drill the holes. You'll need to do the same for the bolt holes on the top of the tripod, but keep in mind that the bolt hole layout may be different, so don't assume they are the same.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Drill the bolt holes.\", \"描述\": \"You may have to adjust a bit and make the holes oversize to get them to fit properly. That's OK, as long as you use washers the boards will not move on the tripod. On the smaller board, use a jigsaw or small saw to cut from the edge of the board to the bolt hole whose radius is perpendicular to the edge, as shown in this image. The cuts should create a slot whose sides align with the edges of the drilled hole. This will make it easier to mount the telescope base to the wedge.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install the hinge.\", \"描述\": \"If you have not done so already, cut the piano hinge to the width of the board for the telescope mount. Carefully align the hinge on the line you drew halfway down the length, clamp it down and install one side of it using two wood screws on each end. You can then remove the clamp. Place the telescope mount board next to the hinge with the slot cut away from the hinge, hold it as close to the hinge as possible and screw it to the side edge of the board. The hinge should touch the base and the telescope mount board should hinge up, as shown in the image.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Bolt the wedge to the top of the telescope mount, making sure you use washers on each bolt.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Decide how you will support the telescope mount base.\", \"描述\": \"At this point you can do one of two things. You can cut triangular pieces of wood to insert underneath the telescope mount board and hold it at a fixed angle, or you can cut larger pieces to attach on the outside of the long base board to support the telescope mount, but also give you the ability to modify the angle if needed. The tricky part here is the geometry. The top surface of the telescope base mount must be raised to an angle equal to the latitude of your location (you did write that down in step 1, right?) That angle needs to be as accurate as possible, but for amateur purposes the tolerances need not be microscopic.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Build the supports.\", \"描述\": \"In my case, I used two pieces of wood, cut them roughly to the shape of a slice of pizza, with the radius about an inch longer than 1/2 the length of the telescope base mount board, and attached it to the outside of the wedge with screws. You can (and probably should) use a wood router to make dado cuts and apply glue. I used wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Raise the board to the desired angle.\", \"描述\": \"Remember to measure the angle of the top surface of the board. Triple-check the angle, secure the board and drill holes on each side slightly smaller than the wood screws and into the edge of the board. Insert screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"At this point you should have a working wedge.\", \"描述\": \"All you need is a clear night, and an understanding of how to polar align the telescope. The shelf under the telescope mount board can be used to store eyepieces, or a larger battery to power the scope's electronics. Sand everything down to remove any splinters and sharp edges and finish to your preference.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"You now have a platform for astrophotography!\", \"描述\": \"Enjoy!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The reason a wedge is needed for astrophotography is that if you do not align the telescope to true north, a photographic exposure of any significant length will show trails on all points of light except the one at the center of the image.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear safety glasses at all times when performing the construction, cutting wood, painting, etc.\\n\", \"If your telescope mount and OTA (optical tube assembly) are large, the wedge will make them even heavier. Be careful when moving the unit, and check the tripod's specifications to make sure it can handle the additional weight of the wedge.\\n\", \"For a large OTA (11\\\" or more) you should considering purchasing a fork mount rather than building a wedge. Such a large telescope would require a much larger mounting base to distribute the weight, and the thickness of the wood used would have to be increased as well for the same reason. A fork mount would allow you to locate the center of gravity of the OTA over the vertical axis of the telescope, making it much safer to handle. You may want to search the Internet for \\\"DIY FORK MOUNT\\\" for construction ideas, as you would not be reinventing the wheel.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,657 |
How to Build an Escape Room
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1. Creating a Storyline
1-1. Identify your audience when you are creating your storyline.
Are you creating an escape room for students? Choose a story that is related to a lesson you are teaching. Are you creating an escape room for a group of friends? Think about different movies or shows your friends enjoy and choose a similar theme.
For example, for a student escape room in a math classroom, the story could be a detective story in which students need to stop a villain. The clues will be math-based, but the engaging storyline will keep them interested.
If you are creating an escape room for friends who like science fiction, consider an outer space theme for your escape room.
If you don't want to come up with your own storyline and props from scratch, consider looking for an escape room kit or template.
1-2. Create a story that is suitable for your space.
If you are constrained to a classroom or a one-room apartment, it won't be possible to create a multi-room escape experience or a life-size maze. For a DIY escape room, it's best to focus on brain-teaser clues and hiding clues in clever spots.
Make use of physical resources you have access to. For example, if you have a classroom with lockers or cubbies, figure out a way to lock them to hide clues or puzzle pieces.
If you live in a home with built-in closets, cupboards, or shelves, start thinking about how you can use them to your advantage.
1-3. Plan your escape room to last 30-60 minutes.
Most professional escape rooms last between 45-60 minutes. For your first time creating an escape room, it can be easier to aim for a shorter experience of around 30 minutes.
If you are creating a classroom escape room, make sure that the story can be completed in one class period. It's also possible to create a short, 10-minute icebreaker escape room.
For younger children, a shorter escape room of around 30 minutes might work better.
To immerse your friends in a world of puzzles, you can extend the escape room into a full-day experience.
1-4. Give your participants a quest.
The escape room participants will be the heroes of the story––as long as they solve it. Giving the story a mission will give your participants motivation to solve the clues.
For example, for a detective-themed storyline, the participants might be trying to solve a murder. Or, for a younger group, they might be looking for something precious that has gone missing.
For a social studies classroom, you might be teaching your students about Ancient Egypt. The quest could be uncovering an ancient tomb.
1-5. Use your theme to write out the main events of the story.
Like all good stories, escape rooms need a beginning, middle, and end. Write down the major plot points your participants will encounter. You can use this as a guide when you are writing your clues.
For example, if your participants are playing archaeologists, the story might start out with the threat of an ancient temple being destroyed. Throughout the story, the participants find out more and more about the temple, such as the presence of hidden doors, traps, or a key hidden in the temple. At the end, the temple is saved if the participants are successful.
In a detective story, you can start by explaining that something precious was recently stolen, such as a diamond ring. The players can learn more about where the criminal may have hidden the ring through the clues, allowing players to follow in the thief's footsteps. Then, it can be recovered and returned to the rightful owner or lost forever if the participants don't solve the puzzles.
1-6. Brainstorm some objects that can be used in your storyline.
The objects you use can hide puzzle pieces, provide clues, or contain information to help participants decode clues. Depending on your budget, you may have to improvise and ask your participants to use their imaginations.
Some commonly-used hiding places include books with a hidden chamber, drawers, on top of tall surfaces or ledges, or inside coat pockets.
Some more involved hiding places might include underneath floorboards, behind a false wall, or behind pieces of furniture.
1-7. Decorate the room according to the theme.
Depending on how elaborate you want your escape room to be, you can add as much or as little decoration as you like. To create a more immersive experience, there is no such thing as too much decoration. For a classroom or party escape room that you will use once, it's appropriate to hang up a few themed pictures or add some on-theme elements.
For example, for an immersive archaeology-themed escape room, you might want to cover the walls of the rooms with a texture like stone, invest in some statuettes, and paint lockboxes so that they look like treasure boxes.
Think about all the senses. Is it hot or cold in the story? Can participants rely on the texture a prop to reveal something, such as a clue written in braille or a hidden door that opens by pressing a brick that feels different?
1-8. Choose props that fit with the theme.
Props are another way to make your story come to life in the escape room. Not all props need to be clues. In fact, it's better to have some props that aren't clues so that participants have to hunt for them. Props can be red herrings (false clues) or simply add to the sense of place in your story.
For example, for a detective story, you could include a detective's hat, coat, badge, and magnifying glass scattered around the room.
For an Ancient Egypt classroom escape room, print some pictures of Ancient Egyptian art and hang them up around the room. If you have the budget, think about adding some small statuettes or prop bones.
2. Hiding Puzzle Pieces
2-1. Start with standard lock boxes and different kinds of locks.
The easiest way to hide clues or puzzles is to use lock boxes. No need for any fancy DIY decorations or handmade hiding spaces unless you really want to go above and beyond.
This is especially useful for an escape room for friends or students. If you are hoping to open a professional escape room, you may want to invest in more customized hiding spots.
Clues can lead participants in order to the next clue. Alternatively, they can be part of a larger puzzle. Once participants collect all the pieces, they reveal a code to unlock the door.
2-2. Hide objects just out of reach.
Have participants look for something to grab a puzzle piece or key with, such as a magnet, a stick, or a grabby tool. This is a tantalizing motivation strategy.
For example, for a prison-themed escape room, you could leave the keys to the room beyond reach behind some bars. A steel key ring will stick to a magnet.
2-3. Use ordinary objects as hiding places.
You can go for something obvious like hiding a set of keys in a flower pot or money and clues inside of a book. Or, you can get more involved by hiding clues inside of walls, false bricks, or even old electronics with their insides removed.
Your imagination is the limit when it comes to hiding clues. Think about your theme and brainstorm any possible related object. Think about how you could make those objects into a hiding place.
For example, in a detective-themed room, you could hide a clue in the pocket of the detective's coat. The clue could be the last lead the detective had on the case.
As another example, for an archaeology-themed room, a decoding document could be hidden inside of a book.
2-4. Try "hiding" clues in plain sight.
Escape room participants are often so preoccupied with finding hidden clues and puzzle pieces that they often don't notice clues right in front of their faces. This could include a photo or artwork with a clue or an object that could be used to get to a clue or key.
For example, a piece of artwork on the wall could double as a cipher to decode a clue.
For a more high-tech setup, have players step on footprints to open a hidden door.
2-5. Use a blacklight to reveal clues.
Write clues on a wall or object using a blacklight marker. Then, hide a blacklight somewhere in the room. Once participants find it, they will turn it on to reveal a code or clue.
Alternatively, you can have a blacklight fixture in the room that turns on automatically from a specific action.
2-6. Incorporate a maze into your escape room.
Mazes can come in any number of shapes and sizes. The easiest way to include a maze is to use a handheld, horizontal puzzle maze that is hollow and has a hole in it. Participants would need to get a piece out of the maze.
A room-sized maze is a great immersive experience, if you're able to create one.
It's also ideal to have participants escape from a different door from the one they entered. Using a maze is one way to move them from one door to another.
3. Writing Clues
3-1. Write the clues to your escape room after you have it set up.
Once you have the story and setup of the room in place, write clues that connect the different hiding places. It's important to have the room set up already just in case the setup is different from what you originally had planned.
Just because you write clues down doesn't mean they have to be placed somewhere in the room. You can also convey the clue to the participants using a speaker.
3-2. Decide if you want the clues to be revealed in a specific order.
There are 2 ways to reveal clues in an escape room: you can either allow the players to discover them in no particular order and put them together to reveal a solution, or you can write the clues so that one leads to the other. The second way is the more difficult way, but it can also be more satisfying for players.
If you want the clues to be revealed in a particular order, make sure the players won't accidentally discover one too early.
3-3. Reveal codes for combination locks through clues.
One of the most common formats for escape room clues is to reveal a code for a lock through a clue or series of clues. Use some kind of combination lock to reveal a series of numbers that will open it. The inside could hide a key that opens the escape room, or it could reveal the next clue.
How much you reveal in each clue depends on your audience. For students, revealing the entire combination through some arithmetic problems can work well to keep the game moving. For adults, you may want to make them hunt down each number individually.
3-4. Use ciphers to code clues.
Ciphers are pieces of writing that are coded. Hide a decoding key somewhere in the room. Once players find the key, they will be able to decipher the clue and may lead them to a key or puzzle piece.
Some common ciphers include Morse code, braille, or substituting specific letters or numbers for other letters.
For an Ancient Egypt-themed escape room, use hieroglyphics. Match each symbol to the letter it represents to spell out clues.
3-5. Make ordinary groups of objects into coded clues.
Use objects that belong together to spell out a clue. Players will need to collect all of the objects and assemble them in order to reveal the meaning.
For example, write a series of words that spell out a clue on the back of some cards. Players will need to arrange them in the right order to get the clue.
Another option is to write a clue on a puzzle and hide the pieces around the room. Players will need to find all the pieces and put together the puzzle to reveal a final clue.
3-6. Consider using a powerpoint with clues for a classroom escape room.
A powerpoint allows you to include more educational content and visual aids. You can also advance the powerpoint to the next clue if students take too long to solve the clues.
Since you will be in the room with your students while they solve the clues, you can also consider having a series of hints written down that you can give them if they run into trouble.
3-7. Avoid clues that are based on trivia or pop culture.
These kinds of clues assume that your participants have specific information memorized and can easily recall it. If your participants can't recall the information, they won't be able to move forward with the game, which can be frustrating rather than fun.
An exception to this would be a themed escape room. For example, if you created a Harry Potter escape room, including trivia-based clues is entirely appropriate.
Another exception would be classroom escape rooms that depend on students remembering information from class.
Tips
If possible, ask a couple of friends to test your escape room first. This way, you can get feedback on what works and make any tweaks before you open it up to the intended audience.
Warnings
Don't hide clues in fake electrical outlets or ceilings. This is a safety hazard.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating a Storyline\\n1-1. Identify your audience when you are creating your storyline.\\nAre you creating an escape room for students? Choose a story that is related to a lesson you are teaching. Are you creating an escape room for a group of friends? Think about different movies or shows your friends enjoy and choose a similar theme.\\nFor example, for a student escape room in a math classroom, the story could be a detective story in which students need to stop a villain. The clues will be math-based, but the engaging storyline will keep them interested.\\nIf you are creating an escape room for friends who like science fiction, consider an outer space theme for your escape room.\\nIf you don't want to come up with your own storyline and props from scratch, consider looking for an escape room kit or template.\\n1-2. Create a story that is suitable for your space.\\nIf you are constrained to a classroom or a one-room apartment, it won't be possible to create a multi-room escape experience or a life-size maze. For a DIY escape room, it's best to focus on brain-teaser clues and hiding clues in clever spots.\\nMake use of physical resources you have access to. For example, if you have a classroom with lockers or cubbies, figure out a way to lock them to hide clues or puzzle pieces.\\nIf you live in a home with built-in closets, cupboards, or shelves, start thinking about how you can use them to your advantage.\\n1-3. Plan your escape room to last 30-60 minutes.\\nMost professional escape rooms last between 45-60 minutes. For your first time creating an escape room, it can be easier to aim for a shorter experience of around 30 minutes.\\nIf you are creating a classroom escape room, make sure that the story can be completed in one class period. It's also possible to create a short, 10-minute icebreaker escape room.\\nFor younger children, a shorter escape room of around 30 minutes might work better.\\nTo immerse your friends in a world of puzzles, you can extend the escape room into a full-day experience.\\n1-4. Give your participants a quest.\\nThe escape room participants will be the heroes of the story––as long as they solve it. Giving the story a mission will give your participants motivation to solve the clues.\\nFor example, for a detective-themed storyline, the participants might be trying to solve a murder. Or, for a younger group, they might be looking for something precious that has gone missing.\\nFor a social studies classroom, you might be teaching your students about Ancient Egypt. The quest could be uncovering an ancient tomb.\\n1-5. Use your theme to write out the main events of the story.\\nLike all good stories, escape rooms need a beginning, middle, and end. Write down the major plot points your participants will encounter. You can use this as a guide when you are writing your clues.\\nFor example, if your participants are playing archaeologists, the story might start out with the threat of an ancient temple being destroyed. Throughout the story, the participants find out more and more about the temple, such as the presence of hidden doors, traps, or a key hidden in the temple. At the end, the temple is saved if the participants are successful.\\nIn a detective story, you can start by explaining that something precious was recently stolen, such as a diamond ring. The players can learn more about where the criminal may have hidden the ring through the clues, allowing players to follow in the thief's footsteps. Then, it can be recovered and returned to the rightful owner or lost forever if the participants don't solve the puzzles.\\n1-6. Brainstorm some objects that can be used in your storyline.\\nThe objects you use can hide puzzle pieces, provide clues, or contain information to help participants decode clues. Depending on your budget, you may have to improvise and ask your participants to use their imaginations.\\nSome commonly-used hiding places include books with a hidden chamber, drawers, on top of tall surfaces or ledges, or inside coat pockets.\\nSome more involved hiding places might include underneath floorboards, behind a false wall, or behind pieces of furniture.\\n1-7. Decorate the room according to the theme.\\nDepending on how elaborate you want your escape room to be, you can add as much or as little decoration as you like. To create a more immersive experience, there is no such thing as too much decoration. For a classroom or party escape room that you will use once, it's appropriate to hang up a few themed pictures or add some on-theme elements.\\nFor example, for an immersive archaeology-themed escape room, you might want to cover the walls of the rooms with a texture like stone, invest in some statuettes, and paint lockboxes so that they look like treasure boxes.\\nThink about all the senses. Is it hot or cold in the story? Can participants rely on the texture a prop to reveal something, such as a clue written in braille or a hidden door that opens by pressing a brick that feels different?\\n1-8. Choose props that fit with the theme.\\nProps are another way to make your story come to life in the escape room. Not all props need to be clues. In fact, it's better to have some props that aren't clues so that participants have to hunt for them. Props can be red herrings (false clues) or simply add to the sense of place in your story.\\nFor example, for a detective story, you could include a detective's hat, coat, badge, and magnifying glass scattered around the room.\\nFor an Ancient Egypt classroom escape room, print some pictures of Ancient Egyptian art and hang them up around the room. If you have the budget, think about adding some small statuettes or prop bones.\\n2. Hiding Puzzle Pieces\\n2-1. Start with standard lock boxes and different kinds of locks.\\nThe easiest way to hide clues or puzzles is to use lock boxes. No need for any fancy DIY decorations or handmade hiding spaces unless you really want to go above and beyond.\\nThis is especially useful for an escape room for friends or students. If you are hoping to open a professional escape room, you may want to invest in more customized hiding spots.\\nClues can lead participants in order to the next clue. Alternatively, they can be part of a larger puzzle. Once participants collect all the pieces, they reveal a code to unlock the door.\\n2-2. Hide objects just out of reach.\\nHave participants look for something to grab a puzzle piece or key with, such as a magnet, a stick, or a grabby tool. This is a tantalizing motivation strategy.\\nFor example, for a prison-themed escape room, you could leave the keys to the room beyond reach behind some bars. A steel key ring will stick to a magnet.\\n2-3. Use ordinary objects as hiding places.\\nYou can go for something obvious like hiding a set of keys in a flower pot or money and clues inside of a book. Or, you can get more involved by hiding clues inside of walls, false bricks, or even old electronics with their insides removed.\\nYour imagination is the limit when it comes to hiding clues. Think about your theme and brainstorm any possible related object. Think about how you could make those objects into a hiding place.\\nFor example, in a detective-themed room, you could hide a clue in the pocket of the detective's coat. The clue could be the last lead the detective had on the case.\\nAs another example, for an archaeology-themed room, a decoding document could be hidden inside of a book.\\n2-4. Try \\\"hiding\\\" clues in plain sight.\\nEscape room participants are often so preoccupied with finding hidden clues and puzzle pieces that they often don't notice clues right in front of their faces. This could include a photo or artwork with a clue or an object that could be used to get to a clue or key.\\nFor example, a piece of artwork on the wall could double as a cipher to decode a clue.\\nFor a more high-tech setup, have players step on footprints to open a hidden door.\\n2-5. Use a blacklight to reveal clues.\\nWrite clues on a wall or object using a blacklight marker. Then, hide a blacklight somewhere in the room. Once participants find it, they will turn it on to reveal a code or clue.\\nAlternatively, you can have a blacklight fixture in the room that turns on automatically from a specific action.\\n2-6. Incorporate a maze into your escape room.\\nMazes can come in any number of shapes and sizes. The easiest way to include a maze is to use a handheld, horizontal puzzle maze that is hollow and has a hole in it. Participants would need to get a piece out of the maze.\\nA room-sized maze is a great immersive experience, if you're able to create one.\\nIt's also ideal to have participants escape from a different door from the one they entered. Using a maze is one way to move them from one door to another.\\n3. Writing Clues\\n3-1. Write the clues to your escape room after you have it set up.\\nOnce you have the story and setup of the room in place, write clues that connect the different hiding places. It's important to have the room set up already just in case the setup is different from what you originally had planned.\\nJust because you write clues down doesn't mean they have to be placed somewhere in the room. You can also convey the clue to the participants using a speaker.\\n3-2. Decide if you want the clues to be revealed in a specific order.\\nThere are 2 ways to reveal clues in an escape room: you can either allow the players to discover them in no particular order and put them together to reveal a solution, or you can write the clues so that one leads to the other. The second way is the more difficult way, but it can also be more satisfying for players.\\nIf you want the clues to be revealed in a particular order, make sure the players won't accidentally discover one too early.\\n3-3. Reveal codes for combination locks through clues.\\nOne of the most common formats for escape room clues is to reveal a code for a lock through a clue or series of clues. Use some kind of combination lock to reveal a series of numbers that will open it. The inside could hide a key that opens the escape room, or it could reveal the next clue.\\nHow much you reveal in each clue depends on your audience. For students, revealing the entire combination through some arithmetic problems can work well to keep the game moving. For adults, you may want to make them hunt down each number individually.\\n3-4. Use ciphers to code clues.\\nCiphers are pieces of writing that are coded. Hide a decoding key somewhere in the room. Once players find the key, they will be able to decipher the clue and may lead them to a key or puzzle piece.\\nSome common ciphers include Morse code, braille, or substituting specific letters or numbers for other letters.\\nFor an Ancient Egypt-themed escape room, use hieroglyphics. Match each symbol to the letter it represents to spell out clues.\\n3-5. Make ordinary groups of objects into coded clues.\\nUse objects that belong together to spell out a clue. Players will need to collect all of the objects and assemble them in order to reveal the meaning.\\nFor example, write a series of words that spell out a clue on the back of some cards. Players will need to arrange them in the right order to get the clue.\\nAnother option is to write a clue on a puzzle and hide the pieces around the room. Players will need to find all the pieces and put together the puzzle to reveal a final clue.\\n3-6. Consider using a powerpoint with clues for a classroom escape room.\\nA powerpoint allows you to include more educational content and visual aids. You can also advance the powerpoint to the next clue if students take too long to solve the clues.\\nSince you will be in the room with your students while they solve the clues, you can also consider having a series of hints written down that you can give them if they run into trouble.\\n3-7. Avoid clues that are based on trivia or pop culture.\\nThese kinds of clues assume that your participants have specific information memorized and can easily recall it. If your participants can't recall the information, they won't be able to move forward with the game, which can be frustrating rather than fun.\\nAn exception to this would be a themed escape room. For example, if you created a Harry Potter escape room, including trivia-based clues is entirely appropriate.\\nAnother exception would be classroom escape rooms that depend on students remembering information from class.\\nTips\\nIf possible, ask a couple of friends to test your escape room first. This way, you can get feedback on what works and make any tweaks before you open it up to the intended audience.\\nWarnings\\nDon't hide clues in fake electrical outlets or ceilings. This is a safety hazard.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Escape rooms are becoming more and more popular as a way to spend an hour or so bonding with friends. The idea of the escape room is to collect a series of clues or puzzle pieces that point the players towards a key or code that lets them out of the room. You can build a DIY escape room in your home or classroom without much special equipment. Start with a fun theme and story to motivate your participants. Then, move on to creating a series of puzzle pieces in your escape room. Finally, write difficult (but not impossible!) clues to guide your participants to the puzzle pieces.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating a Storyline\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identify your audience when you are creating your storyline.\", \"描述\": \"Are you creating an escape room for students? Choose a story that is related to a lesson you are teaching. Are you creating an escape room for a group of friends? Think about different movies or shows your friends enjoy and choose a similar theme.\\nFor example, for a student escape room in a math classroom, the story could be a detective story in which students need to stop a villain. The clues will be math-based, but the engaging storyline will keep them interested.\\nIf you are creating an escape room for friends who like science fiction, consider an outer space theme for your escape room.\\nIf you don't want to come up with your own storyline and props from scratch, consider looking for an escape room kit or template.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a story that is suitable for your space.\", \"描述\": \"If you are constrained to a classroom or a one-room apartment, it won't be possible to create a multi-room escape experience or a life-size maze. For a DIY escape room, it's best to focus on brain-teaser clues and hiding clues in clever spots.\\nMake use of physical resources you have access to. For example, if you have a classroom with lockers or cubbies, figure out a way to lock them to hide clues or puzzle pieces.\\nIf you live in a home with built-in closets, cupboards, or shelves, start thinking about how you can use them to your advantage.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan your escape room to last 30-60 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Most professional escape rooms last between 45-60 minutes. For your first time creating an escape room, it can be easier to aim for a shorter experience of around 30 minutes.\\nIf you are creating a classroom escape room, make sure that the story can be completed in one class period. It's also possible to create a short, 10-minute icebreaker escape room.\\nFor younger children, a shorter escape room of around 30 minutes might work better.\\nTo immerse your friends in a world of puzzles, you can extend the escape room into a full-day experience.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give your participants a quest.\", \"描述\": \"The escape room participants will be the heroes of the story––as long as they solve it. Giving the story a mission will give your participants motivation to solve the clues.\\nFor example, for a detective-themed storyline, the participants might be trying to solve a murder. Or, for a younger group, they might be looking for something precious that has gone missing.\\nFor a social studies classroom, you might be teaching your students about Ancient Egypt. The quest could be uncovering an ancient tomb.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use your theme to write out the main events of the story.\", \"描述\": \"Like all good stories, escape rooms need a beginning, middle, and end. Write down the major plot points your participants will encounter. You can use this as a guide when you are writing your clues.\\nFor example, if your participants are playing archaeologists, the story might start out with the threat of an ancient temple being destroyed. Throughout the story, the participants find out more and more about the temple, such as the presence of hidden doors, traps, or a key hidden in the temple. At the end, the temple is saved if the participants are successful.\\nIn a detective story, you can start by explaining that something precious was recently stolen, such as a diamond ring. The players can learn more about where the criminal may have hidden the ring through the clues, allowing players to follow in the thief's footsteps. Then, it can be recovered and returned to the rightful owner or lost forever if the participants don't solve the puzzles.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Brainstorm some objects that can be used in your storyline.\", \"描述\": \"The objects you use can hide puzzle pieces, provide clues, or contain information to help participants decode clues. Depending on your budget, you may have to improvise and ask your participants to use their imaginations.\\nSome commonly-used hiding places include books with a hidden chamber, drawers, on top of tall surfaces or ledges, or inside coat pockets.\\nSome more involved hiding places might include underneath floorboards, behind a false wall, or behind pieces of furniture.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Decorate the room according to the theme.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on how elaborate you want your escape room to be, you can add as much or as little decoration as you like. To create a more immersive experience, there is no such thing as too much decoration. For a classroom or party escape room that you will use once, it's appropriate to hang up a few themed pictures or add some on-theme elements.\\nFor example, for an immersive archaeology-themed escape room, you might want to cover the walls of the rooms with a texture like stone, invest in some statuettes, and paint lockboxes so that they look like treasure boxes.\\nThink about all the senses. Is it hot or cold in the story? Can participants rely on the texture a prop to reveal something, such as a clue written in braille or a hidden door that opens by pressing a brick that feels different?\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Choose props that fit with the theme.\", \"描述\": \"Props are another way to make your story come to life in the escape room. Not all props need to be clues. In fact, it's better to have some props that aren't clues so that participants have to hunt for them. Props can be red herrings (false clues) or simply add to the sense of place in your story.\\nFor example, for a detective story, you could include a detective's hat, coat, badge, and magnifying glass scattered around the room.\\nFor an Ancient Egypt classroom escape room, print some pictures of Ancient Egyptian art and hang them up around the room. If you have the budget, think about adding some small statuettes or prop bones.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hiding Puzzle Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start with standard lock boxes and different kinds of locks.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to hide clues or puzzles is to use lock boxes. No need for any fancy DIY decorations or handmade hiding spaces unless you really want to go above and beyond.\\nThis is especially useful for an escape room for friends or students. If you are hoping to open a professional escape room, you may want to invest in more customized hiding spots.\\nClues can lead participants in order to the next clue. Alternatively, they can be part of a larger puzzle. Once participants collect all the pieces, they reveal a code to unlock the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hide objects just out of reach.\", \"描述\": \"Have participants look for something to grab a puzzle piece or key with, such as a magnet, a stick, or a grabby tool. This is a tantalizing motivation strategy.\\nFor example, for a prison-themed escape room, you could leave the keys to the room beyond reach behind some bars. A steel key ring will stick to a magnet.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use ordinary objects as hiding places.\", \"描述\": \"You can go for something obvious like hiding a set of keys in a flower pot or money and clues inside of a book. Or, you can get more involved by hiding clues inside of walls, false bricks, or even old electronics with their insides removed.\\nYour imagination is the limit when it comes to hiding clues. Think about your theme and brainstorm any possible related object. Think about how you could make those objects into a hiding place.\\nFor example, in a detective-themed room, you could hide a clue in the pocket of the detective's coat. The clue could be the last lead the detective had on the case.\\nAs another example, for an archaeology-themed room, a decoding document could be hidden inside of a book.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try \\\"hiding\\\" clues in plain sight.\", \"描述\": \"Escape room participants are often so preoccupied with finding hidden clues and puzzle pieces that they often don't notice clues right in front of their faces. This could include a photo or artwork with a clue or an object that could be used to get to a clue or key.\\nFor example, a piece of artwork on the wall could double as a cipher to decode a clue.\\nFor a more high-tech setup, have players step on footprints to open a hidden door.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a blacklight to reveal clues.\", \"描述\": \"Write clues on a wall or object using a blacklight marker. Then, hide a blacklight somewhere in the room. Once participants find it, they will turn it on to reveal a code or clue.\\nAlternatively, you can have a blacklight fixture in the room that turns on automatically from a specific action.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Incorporate a maze into your escape room.\", \"描述\": \"Mazes can come in any number of shapes and sizes. The easiest way to include a maze is to use a handheld, horizontal puzzle maze that is hollow and has a hole in it. Participants would need to get a piece out of the maze.\\nA room-sized maze is a great immersive experience, if you're able to create one.\\nIt's also ideal to have participants escape from a different door from the one they entered. Using a maze is one way to move them from one door to another.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Writing Clues\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Write the clues to your escape room after you have it set up.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the story and setup of the room in place, write clues that connect the different hiding places. It's important to have the room set up already just in case the setup is different from what you originally had planned.\\nJust because you write clues down doesn't mean they have to be placed somewhere in the room. You can also convey the clue to the participants using a speaker.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide if you want the clues to be revealed in a specific order.\", \"描述\": \"There are 2 ways to reveal clues in an escape room: you can either allow the players to discover them in no particular order and put them together to reveal a solution, or you can write the clues so that one leads to the other. The second way is the more difficult way, but it can also be more satisfying for players.\\nIf you want the clues to be revealed in a particular order, make sure the players won't accidentally discover one too early.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Reveal codes for combination locks through clues.\", \"描述\": \"One of the most common formats for escape room clues is to reveal a code for a lock through a clue or series of clues. Use some kind of combination lock to reveal a series of numbers that will open it. The inside could hide a key that opens the escape room, or it could reveal the next clue.\\nHow much you reveal in each clue depends on your audience. For students, revealing the entire combination through some arithmetic problems can work well to keep the game moving. For adults, you may want to make them hunt down each number individually.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use ciphers to code clues.\", \"描述\": \"Ciphers are pieces of writing that are coded. Hide a decoding key somewhere in the room. Once players find the key, they will be able to decipher the clue and may lead them to a key or puzzle piece.\\nSome common ciphers include Morse code, braille, or substituting specific letters or numbers for other letters.\\nFor an Ancient Egypt-themed escape room, use hieroglyphics. Match each symbol to the letter it represents to spell out clues.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make ordinary groups of objects into coded clues.\", \"描述\": \"Use objects that belong together to spell out a clue. Players will need to collect all of the objects and assemble them in order to reveal the meaning.\\nFor example, write a series of words that spell out a clue on the back of some cards. Players will need to arrange them in the right order to get the clue.\\nAnother option is to write a clue on a puzzle and hide the pieces around the room. Players will need to find all the pieces and put together the puzzle to reveal a final clue.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider using a powerpoint with clues for a classroom escape room.\", \"描述\": \"A powerpoint allows you to include more educational content and visual aids. You can also advance the powerpoint to the next clue if students take too long to solve the clues.\\nSince you will be in the room with your students while they solve the clues, you can also consider having a series of hints written down that you can give them if they run into trouble.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Avoid clues that are based on trivia or pop culture.\", \"描述\": \"These kinds of clues assume that your participants have specific information memorized and can easily recall it. If your participants can't recall the information, they won't be able to move forward with the game, which can be frustrating rather than fun.\\nAn exception to this would be a themed escape room. For example, if you created a Harry Potter escape room, including trivia-based clues is entirely appropriate.\\nAnother exception would be classroom escape rooms that depend on students remembering information from class.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If possible, ask a couple of friends to test your escape room first. This way, you can get feedback on what works and make any tweaks before you open it up to the intended audience.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't hide clues in fake electrical outlets or ceilings. This is a safety hazard.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,658 |
How to Build an External Hard Drive
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1. Steps
1-1. You must obtain an internal hard drive (from now on referred to as a HDD).
The first step is to decide on one of the standard physical sizes for any HDD. If you already have a spare HDD laying around for this project, skip to step 2. There are basically 3 HDD sizes: 1.8", 2.5", and 3.5". 1.8" and 2.5" are the standard sizes for laptop HDD's. Laptop HDD's can be powered by the USB cable, so there is no AC adapter needed. Laptop HDD's are however more expensive than internal PC HDD's, so if you are not worried about size or another power cord, a desktop PC HDD may be the way to go.
1-2. Choose and purchase a compatible enclosure.
Take into consideration the physical size of your HDD, as well as its interface (ATA100, ATA133, Serial ATA150, Serial ATA II, etc.). Decide on a connection type that suits the needs of all computers that will be connected. USB2.0 is currently a good standard, and it will work on any computer or laptop with a free USB connection. FireWire (IEEE1394) is even faster, however it is not as common in all computers yet. Be sure to also compare fan noise levels (if it has a fan, and if the noise level is displayed). For a HDD that will be running whenever your computer is turned on, a fan will be most likely a good thing to have, while HDD's used primarily for backup usually won't need one. Also check to see if there is a power switch on 3.5" enclosures. Without one, you will need to unplug the adapter to power down the drive. For backup this isn't a big deal, but some people using their drive for secondary storage might find it annoying to plug and unplug every time they start and shut down their computers.
1-3. Unwrap both your enclosure and HDD.
1-4. Follow your instructions on how to correctly open your enclosure.
1-5. Set your HDD to the Master setting (or Master/No Slave if one exists).
This jumper setting is located between the Molex power connector (4 large round pins) and the ATA/SATA connector. You will see 2 rows of four or five small pins, and a small clip (jumper) connected to 2 of them. Pull out the jumper with a tool such as tweezers or a pencil, and place it in the Master position if it is not already there. A diagram of the different jumper settings can usually be found right on the top label of the HDD.
1-6. Connect your enclosure's Molex power connector and ATA/SATA ribbon cable to your HDD.
Although it would be very hard to accidentally plug these in upside-down, take a moment to make sure that the ribbon cable and power connector are properly aligned before inserting them.
1-7. Screw the HDD into the enclosure.
4 or more screws were supplied with the enclosure. There will be 4 holes, 2 on each side of the HDD, and corresponding holes inside the enclosure.
1-8. Take one last look at the inside before you close it.
Make sure you did not forget to connect anything. Read your instructions (you HAVE been reading them too, haven't you? :) and make sure you covered all of the steps. It will be a pain to open it all over again because you forgot to change the jumper to Master or something.
1-9. Close the enclosure.
1-10. Connect the power cord (if one is necessary) and the USB or FireWire cord to your drive.
1-11. USB and FireWire are Plug-and-Play, meaning that you do not need to turn off the computer before connecting your drive.
Connect the other ends of these cords to your computer and surge protector (you ARE using a surge protector, right? :).
1-12. Turn your computer on if it is not already.
Go to My Computer (or Computer for Windows Vista or Windows 7). It is most likely on your desktop, but can also be found in the Start menu.
1-13. You should see a new device in the 'Devices with Removable Storage' section.
1-14. Right click on it and select Format (about halfway down the list).
1-15. Format the drive using NTFS for use in Windows (ext3 or ext4 is good for Linux) as the File System.
To read and write from both Linux and Windows, use fat32. You can give it a Volume Label if you wish. Example: External, Secondary, Backup, etc. Be sure Quick Format is not selected. This will allow any bad sectors to be recognized and to be roped off from any data being stored later on.
1-16. Wait for formatting to complete.
This may take longer for large drives.
1-17. Good Job!
You have successfully built your own external hard drive.
Tips
If your new drive has both USB and FireWire, only use one (the fastest one compatible with your computer(s)). If you are using USB, plug your cord in to your computer's USB High Speed (2.0) connector. If you do not have a High Speed connector, or use the wrong one, it will only mean that you will be transferring data more slowly between the drive and your computer.
This wiki can also easily be applied to adding a Zip Drive, CD ROM/Burner, or DVD ROM/Burner. CD/DVD ROM's/Burners will only be supported by the 5.25" enclosure size. This enclosure size is special because it also supports HDD's. A Zip drive is 3.5" so you will need a bezel (sometimes supplied with your enclosure, but otherwise only a few dollars) to fill the void around the smaller drive and secure it to the enclosure. The drives mentioned here all can use a variety of ribbon cables and power connector sizes, so make sure your enclosure is compatible with the hardware you will insert.
Warnings
Never force the ribbon cable! There should be some resistance when connecting it, but if it won't go in, the pins may not be lined up correctly. If you do manage to bend the pins (hopefully not too many of them), take time to straighten them using a pair of needlenose pliers.
HDD's are very easy to damage when dropped onto a hard surface. The read/write heads can crash onto the platter/s and leave physical damage on the platter, rendering that space on the disk useless as well as making the unit as a whole too damaged for use.
You should always use all 4 screws when adding a HDD to any computer or enclosure, and make them tight. HDD's spin at a high RPM, and vibrations may occur if the drive is not properly secured. These vibrations can cause an annoying humming noise, and even damage to the drive over time.
Keep movement of the drive to a minimum while it is turned on. This once again causes unnecessary vibrations.
Remember that when the hard drive is outside of the enclosure, it is un-protected from static discharge. So do try to keep it from static and the causes thereof.
Drivers are needed if connecting an external Hard Drive (By USB) on Windows 98 (And 98 SE)
Make sure your enclosure has no HDD capacity limit (no larger than a certain number of Gigabytes (GB)), or that this limit does not conflict with your drive's capacity. Unfortunately, some older enclosures may have a somewhat low limit (say 132GB) and not advertise this. Be careful! And if you attempt to use a larger HDD, format it to this limit or lower, or you will most likely encounter sector read errors or something :(
Be sure to use the "Remove Hardware" icon on the task bar before removing the drive from the USB port, Failure to do so may cause the drive to not work properly.
Formatting the drive as ext3 will make it unreadable on a Windows system and formatting as ntfs will make it read-only (you can't copy files onto it) on linux systems without the correct software. Fat32 (called vfat in linux) will be read-write on both operating systems.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. You must obtain an internal hard drive (from now on referred to as a HDD).\\nThe first step is to decide on one of the standard physical sizes for any HDD. If you already have a spare HDD laying around for this project, skip to step 2. There are basically 3 HDD sizes: 1.8\\\", 2.5\\\", and 3.5\\\". 1.8\\\" and 2.5\\\" are the standard sizes for laptop HDD's. Laptop HDD's can be powered by the USB cable, so there is no AC adapter needed. Laptop HDD's are however more expensive than internal PC HDD's, so if you are not worried about size or another power cord, a desktop PC HDD may be the way to go.\\n1-2. Choose and purchase a compatible enclosure.\\nTake into consideration the physical size of your HDD, as well as its interface (ATA100, ATA133, Serial ATA150, Serial ATA II, etc.). Decide on a connection type that suits the needs of all computers that will be connected. USB2.0 is currently a good standard, and it will work on any computer or laptop with a free USB connection. FireWire (IEEE1394) is even faster, however it is not as common in all computers yet. Be sure to also compare fan noise levels (if it has a fan, and if the noise level is displayed). For a HDD that will be running whenever your computer is turned on, a fan will be most likely a good thing to have, while HDD's used primarily for backup usually won't need one. Also check to see if there is a power switch on 3.5\\\" enclosures. Without one, you will need to unplug the adapter to power down the drive. For backup this isn't a big deal, but some people using their drive for secondary storage might find it annoying to plug and unplug every time they start and shut down their computers.\\n1-3. Unwrap both your enclosure and HDD.\\n\\n1-4. Follow your instructions on how to correctly open your enclosure.\\n\\n1-5. Set your HDD to the Master setting (or Master/No Slave if one exists).\\nThis jumper setting is located between the Molex power connector (4 large round pins) and the ATA/SATA connector. You will see 2 rows of four or five small pins, and a small clip (jumper) connected to 2 of them. Pull out the jumper with a tool such as tweezers or a pencil, and place it in the Master position if it is not already there. A diagram of the different jumper settings can usually be found right on the top label of the HDD.\\n1-6. Connect your enclosure's Molex power connector and ATA/SATA ribbon cable to your HDD.\\nAlthough it would be very hard to accidentally plug these in upside-down, take a moment to make sure that the ribbon cable and power connector are properly aligned before inserting them.\\n1-7. Screw the HDD into the enclosure.\\n4 or more screws were supplied with the enclosure. There will be 4 holes, 2 on each side of the HDD, and corresponding holes inside the enclosure.\\n1-8. Take one last look at the inside before you close it.\\nMake sure you did not forget to connect anything. Read your instructions (you HAVE been reading them too, haven't you? :) and make sure you covered all of the steps. It will be a pain to open it all over again because you forgot to change the jumper to Master or something.\\n1-9. Close the enclosure.\\n\\n1-10. Connect the power cord (if one is necessary) and the USB or FireWire cord to your drive.\\n\\n1-11. USB and FireWire are Plug-and-Play, meaning that you do not need to turn off the computer before connecting your drive.\\nConnect the other ends of these cords to your computer and surge protector (you ARE using a surge protector, right? :).\\n1-12. Turn your computer on if it is not already.\\nGo to My Computer (or Computer for Windows Vista or Windows 7). It is most likely on your desktop, but can also be found in the Start menu.\\n1-13. You should see a new device in the 'Devices with Removable Storage' section.\\n\\n1-14. Right click on it and select Format (about halfway down the list).\\n\\n1-15. Format the drive using NTFS for use in Windows (ext3 or ext4 is good for Linux) as the File System.\\nTo read and write from both Linux and Windows, use fat32. You can give it a Volume Label if you wish. Example: External, Secondary, Backup, etc. Be sure Quick Format is not selected. This will allow any bad sectors to be recognized and to be roped off from any data being stored later on.\\n1-16. Wait for formatting to complete.\\nThis may take longer for large drives.\\n1-17. Good Job!\\nYou have successfully built your own external hard drive.\\nTips\\nIf your new drive has both USB and FireWire, only use one (the fastest one compatible with your computer(s)). If you are using USB, plug your cord in to your computer's USB High Speed (2.0) connector. If you do not have a High Speed connector, or use the wrong one, it will only mean that you will be transferring data more slowly between the drive and your computer.\\nThis wiki can also easily be applied to adding a Zip Drive, CD ROM/Burner, or DVD ROM/Burner. CD/DVD ROM's/Burners will only be supported by the 5.25\\\" enclosure size. This enclosure size is special because it also supports HDD's. A Zip drive is 3.5\\\" so you will need a bezel (sometimes supplied with your enclosure, but otherwise only a few dollars) to fill the void around the smaller drive and secure it to the enclosure. The drives mentioned here all can use a variety of ribbon cables and power connector sizes, so make sure your enclosure is compatible with the hardware you will insert.\\nWarnings\\nNever force the ribbon cable! There should be some resistance when connecting it, but if it won't go in, the pins may not be lined up correctly. If you do manage to bend the pins (hopefully not too many of them), take time to straighten them using a pair of needlenose pliers.\\nHDD's are very easy to damage when dropped onto a hard surface. The read/write heads can crash onto the platter/s and leave physical damage on the platter, rendering that space on the disk useless as well as making the unit as a whole too damaged for use.\\nYou should always use all 4 screws when adding a HDD to any computer or enclosure, and make them tight. HDD's spin at a high RPM, and vibrations may occur if the drive is not properly secured. These vibrations can cause an annoying humming noise, and even damage to the drive over time.\\nKeep movement of the drive to a minimum while it is turned on. This once again causes unnecessary vibrations.\\nRemember that when the hard drive is outside of the enclosure, it is un-protected from static discharge. So do try to keep it from static and the causes thereof.\\nDrivers are needed if connecting an external Hard Drive (By USB) on Windows 98 (And 98 SE)\\nMake sure your enclosure has no HDD capacity limit (no larger than a certain number of Gigabytes (GB)), or that this limit does not conflict with your drive's capacity. Unfortunately, some older enclosures may have a somewhat low limit (say 132GB) and not advertise this. Be careful! And if you attempt to use a larger HDD, format it to this limit or lower, or you will most likely encounter sector read errors or something :(\\nBe sure to use the \\\"Remove Hardware\\\" icon on the task bar before removing the drive from the USB port, Failure to do so may cause the drive to not work properly.\\nFormatting the drive as ext3 will make it unreadable on a Windows system and formatting as ntfs will make it read-only (you can't copy files onto it) on linux systems without the correct software. Fat32 (called vfat in linux) will be read-write on both operating systems.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the simplest ways to give your laptop more hard drive space, or backup all of your important files without burning them to CD or DVD, is to build your own external hard drive. This hard drive would be able to connect to any computer with a spare USB port. You can easily and quickly transfer large files between computers, and also have a form of backup in the event something ever happens to your computer. This external hard drive will work on computers running Windows 2000/XP, OS X, or Linux.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You must obtain an internal hard drive (from now on referred to as a HDD).\", \"描述\": \"The first step is to decide on one of the standard physical sizes for any HDD. If you already have a spare HDD laying around for this project, skip to step 2. There are basically 3 HDD sizes: 1.8\\\", 2.5\\\", and 3.5\\\". 1.8\\\" and 2.5\\\" are the standard sizes for laptop HDD's. Laptop HDD's can be powered by the USB cable, so there is no AC adapter needed. Laptop HDD's are however more expensive than internal PC HDD's, so if you are not worried about size or another power cord, a desktop PC HDD may be the way to go.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose and purchase a compatible enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Take into consideration the physical size of your HDD, as well as its interface (ATA100, ATA133, Serial ATA150, Serial ATA II, etc.). Decide on a connection type that suits the needs of all computers that will be connected. USB2.0 is currently a good standard, and it will work on any computer or laptop with a free USB connection. FireWire (IEEE1394) is even faster, however it is not as common in all computers yet. Be sure to also compare fan noise levels (if it has a fan, and if the noise level is displayed). For a HDD that will be running whenever your computer is turned on, a fan will be most likely a good thing to have, while HDD's used primarily for backup usually won't need one. Also check to see if there is a power switch on 3.5\\\" enclosures. Without one, you will need to unplug the adapter to power down the drive. For backup this isn't a big deal, but some people using their drive for secondary storage might find it annoying to plug and unplug every time they start and shut down their computers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Unwrap both your enclosure and HDD.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Follow your instructions on how to correctly open your enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set your HDD to the Master setting (or Master/No Slave if one exists).\", \"描述\": \"This jumper setting is located between the Molex power connector (4 large round pins) and the ATA/SATA connector. You will see 2 rows of four or five small pins, and a small clip (jumper) connected to 2 of them. Pull out the jumper with a tool such as tweezers or a pencil, and place it in the Master position if it is not already there. A diagram of the different jumper settings can usually be found right on the top label of the HDD.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect your enclosure's Molex power connector and ATA/SATA ribbon cable to your HDD.\", \"描述\": \"Although it would be very hard to accidentally plug these in upside-down, take a moment to make sure that the ribbon cable and power connector are properly aligned before inserting them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw the HDD into the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"4 or more screws were supplied with the enclosure. There will be 4 holes, 2 on each side of the HDD, and corresponding holes inside the enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Take one last look at the inside before you close it.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you did not forget to connect anything. Read your instructions (you HAVE been reading them too, haven't you? :) and make sure you covered all of the steps. It will be a pain to open it all over again because you forgot to change the jumper to Master or something.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Close the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Connect the power cord (if one is necessary) and the USB or FireWire cord to your drive.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"USB and FireWire are Plug-and-Play, meaning that you do not need to turn off the computer before connecting your drive.\", \"描述\": \"Connect the other ends of these cords to your computer and surge protector (you ARE using a surge protector, right? :).\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Turn your computer on if it is not already.\", \"描述\": \"Go to My Computer (or Computer for Windows Vista or Windows 7). It is most likely on your desktop, but can also be found in the Start menu.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"You should see a new device in the 'Devices with Removable Storage' section.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Right click on it and select Format (about halfway down the list).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Format the drive using NTFS for use in Windows (ext3 or ext4 is good for Linux) as the File System.\", \"描述\": \"To read and write from both Linux and Windows, use fat32. You can give it a Volume Label if you wish. Example: External, Secondary, Backup, etc. Be sure Quick Format is not selected. This will allow any bad sectors to be recognized and to be roped off from any data being stored later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Wait for formatting to complete.\", \"描述\": \"This may take longer for large drives.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Good Job!\", \"描述\": \"You have successfully built your own external hard drive.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If your new drive has both USB and FireWire, only use one (the fastest one compatible with your computer(s)). If you are using USB, plug your cord in to your computer's USB High Speed (2.0) connector. If you do not have a High Speed connector, or use the wrong one, it will only mean that you will be transferring data more slowly between the drive and your computer.\\n\", \"This wiki can also easily be applied to adding a Zip Drive, CD ROM/Burner, or DVD ROM/Burner. CD/DVD ROM's/Burners will only be supported by the 5.25\\\" enclosure size. This enclosure size is special because it also supports HDD's. A Zip drive is 3.5\\\" so you will need a bezel (sometimes supplied with your enclosure, but otherwise only a few dollars) to fill the void around the smaller drive and secure it to the enclosure. The drives mentioned here all can use a variety of ribbon cables and power connector sizes, so make sure your enclosure is compatible with the hardware you will insert.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never force the ribbon cable! There should be some resistance when connecting it, but if it won't go in, the pins may not be lined up correctly. If you do manage to bend the pins (hopefully not too many of them), take time to straighten them using a pair of needlenose pliers.\\n\", \"HDD's are very easy to damage when dropped onto a hard surface. The read/write heads can crash onto the platter/s and leave physical damage on the platter, rendering that space on the disk useless as well as making the unit as a whole too damaged for use.\\n\", \"You should always use all 4 screws when adding a HDD to any computer or enclosure, and make them tight. HDD's spin at a high RPM, and vibrations may occur if the drive is not properly secured. These vibrations can cause an annoying humming noise, and even damage to the drive over time.\\n\", \"Keep movement of the drive to a minimum while it is turned on. This once again causes unnecessary vibrations.\\n\", \"Remember that when the hard drive is outside of the enclosure, it is un-protected from static discharge. So do try to keep it from static and the causes thereof.\\n\", \"Drivers are needed if connecting an external Hard Drive (By USB) on Windows 98 (And 98 SE)\\n\", \"Make sure your enclosure has no HDD capacity limit (no larger than a certain number of Gigabytes (GB)), or that this limit does not conflict with your drive's capacity. Unfortunately, some older enclosures may have a somewhat low limit (say 132GB) and not advertise this. Be careful! And if you attempt to use a larger HDD, format it to this limit or lower, or you will most likely encounter sector read errors or something :(\\n\", \"Be sure to use the \\\"Remove Hardware\\\" icon on the task bar before removing the drive from the USB port, Failure to do so may cause the drive to not work properly.\\n\", \"Formatting the drive as ext3 will make it unreadable on a Windows system and formatting as ntfs will make it read-only (you can't copy files onto it) on linux systems without the correct software. Fat32 (called vfat in linux) will be read-write on both operating systems.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,659 |
How to Build an Igloo
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1. Plotting out Your Igloo
1-1. Build on a slope to save effort.
Of course, an igloo can be built on flat land without any problems, but by building your igloo into a hillside, the slope will cut down on the surface area of your igloo dome. Less surface area means fewer bricks, and fewer bricks mean less work for you.
In survival situations, a hillside building site should be prioritized.
Avoid free-standing mounds, as these are likely logs or boulders buried in snow.
Use a snow prod or a long stick to verify usable space for your igloo.
1-2. Use a snow prod to test the snow for consistency.
Ideally, you'll want to cut the bricks of your igloo from snow that is hard packed with no soft layers of soft snow in it. Use your snow prod or a long stick to check the snow, which should offer firm, uniform resistance if hard packed throughout.
Measure the depth of your snow while checking consistency. You'll want the snow to be at least 2 feet (0.61 m) deep to make your igloo.
1-3. Outline the outer wall of your igloo.
Use the heel of your boot to scuff out a line marking the circular outside of your igloo. The snow on the inside of your circle should all be consistently hard packed, and your circle should be regular in shape.
A poorly outlined outer wall will result in your igloo's design being less stable and sturdy.
Never build a dome with a diameter larger than 10 feet (3.0 m), as it will require you to build a perfect dome. This is a nearly impossible task, even with special tools.
1-4. Know your general plan for igloo construction.
You'll soon be using snow blocks cut from the snow inside the outer perimeter of your igloo to build the walls of your igloo dome. You'll be building from the inside out, cutting the door of your structure after finishing your dome from the inside.
1-5. Cut a narrow rectangular trench to prepare to harvest blocks.
Depending on the size of your igloo, the size of your blocks can change, but traditionally igloo blocks are 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick. Cut a narrow rectangular trench with your snow knife to accommodate several blocks this size.
Cut your trench in a way that places one of its short ends flat against the outer perimeter line of your igloo.
The place your trench and outer wall boundaries meet will eventually become your outside door.
If working on a slope or building your igloo into a hillside, dig your trench directly toward the slope.
A handsaw or machete can be used in place of a snow knife.
2. Making Your Igloo Dome
2-1. Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row.
Section the hard packed snow inside the perimeter of your rectangular trench into equal rectangular blocks. Stubborn blocks can be broken free by sticking your snow tool into the cut around the block and gently wiggling it back and forth until the block is broken free. Then arrange your blocks around the perimeter of your igloo to create the first layer of your dome.
Your blocks should be 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick, and should taper slightly as you build upward.
Run your snow knife, machete, or handsaw along the edges of your first row of blocks where one block joins the next. This will smooth contours and help fit each block together tightly.
When your rectangular trench no longer has snow for blocks, cut another trench the same dimensions as the first. All the snow used in building your dome should come from within the perimeter of the igloo.
2-2. Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks.
Due to the rectangular shape of your blocks, you will need to cut a gentle slope inclining from the ground all the way to the top height of your first row of snow blocks. This incline should extend part way around your igloo (perhaps even as much as halfway), and should be cut with your snow knife, machete, or handsaw.
This incline will allow your blocks to be stacked in a vertical spiral, creating a snug fit.
2-3. Level and shape igloo walls when necessary.
This will make stacking and layering the ice blocks much easier. Additionally, as you build your dome upward, you will need to shape your snow blocks to fit the reduced space at the top of your dome. Use your snow knife, machete, or handsaw to do this as necessary.
Each row of your igloo dome should slope gradually inward. Use your snow knife, machete, or saw to create a very gentle inward slope for each row of snow blocks.
Using your hand, plug any gaps you find in your dome from the inside with snow. Simply pat snow into the gap until it is filled.
2-4. Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter.
Continue to liberate blocks from the snow within your igloo perimeter with your snow knife/machete, and then stack your next layer starting from the sloping end of your first row. As your dome wall rises, blocks will begin to decrease in size and slope inward.
To increase stability and prevent ceiling blocks from falling, bevel the edges where ceiling blocks meet the row beneath.
To bevel, cut the inside corner of your ceiling block so that it forms a flat base with its neighboring block beneath.
2-5. Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully.
The topmost blocks in your igloo dome are notoriously tricky to fit into place, so take your time and work carefully during this leg of your igloo building. Use your snow knife/machete to sculpt these pieces to fit tightly together.
Since your final hole will be exceptionally small, you will have to turn your final block on its end and feed it through the hole on its side.
When your final cap-hole piece is balanced on the outer top part of the dome, cut it down to fit in place snugly with your snow knife/machete.
3. Finishing Your Igloo
3-1. Carve vents in your igloo to prevent CO2 poisoning.
Your body heat will cause the snow of your dome to melt and then freeze again, creating a barrier between the inside and outside of your igloo. Without ventilation this seal will prevent the CO2 that you exhale from escaping, and could seriously harm you.
Cut small, crescent shaped vents into the top or sides of your igloo to prevent the buildup of CO2.
3-2. Cut your entrance.
Now that you have the dome of your igloo created and some vents carved into place, you're ready to make an entrance. Use your snow knife/machete to cut a rectangle from the bottom of your block deep igloo base to about eye-level high, while crouching, in your dome wall. Your cut should be as deep as your dome wall is thick.
Try to preserve this block by pulling it inside the igloo. You can save this block to create an overhang for your entrance.
3-3. Clear your entrance way.
Remove the remaining snow from your entrance in an gentle upward slope. You can pull this snow inside your igloo and use it for further patching gaps from the inside, or you can simply push it outside. Once your sloped entrance is finished, take the rectangular block you cut free of your dome wall and turn it on its side to remove it from your igloo. Then:
Cut the rectangular dome-wall block in half.
Lean each half of your block inward over your entrance trench so that each one holds the other up in an upside down V shape.
This upside V overhang for your entrance should be as close to the mouth of the entrance as possible, to provide the most protection.
3-4. Strengthen your exterior with snow and enjoy your igloo.
Your igloo can be made even more durable to patching thin spots and gaps with more snow. Some gaps may be most easily patched from the inside, while you might have better access to others from outside. In either case, use your hand to press the snow into the gap and then smooth the area to pack it together.
You should be able to assess the stability of your igloo by touch. If the blocks feel solid and sturdy, your igloo should withstand the elements.
Even if your igloo is a little on the rickety side, in the event of a cave-in, you'll be able to dig yourself free from the snow easily.
Tips
If your area does not have suitable snow, you can make use of store-bought snow block molds. These can be purchased from some winter sports stores or general online retailers.[21]
X
Research source
Make your own block molds by making a rectangular frame from four boards. Rectangular containers, like wastebaskets, will also work.[22]
X
Research source
Get a partner if possible. Two experienced igloo builders can make an igloo in under two hours.
Warnings
Small cooking stoves can be used in your igloo as long as it is large and well-ventilated. You should use the stove sparingly, and not for warmth. Position the stove where the fumes can freely flow out of the igloo, such as beneath an air vent.
Building an igloo is not the most convenient way to create shelter in a survival situation. See How to Build a Snow Cave for a more emergency-appropriate solution.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Plotting out Your Igloo\\n1-1. Build on a slope to save effort.\\nOf course, an igloo can be built on flat land without any problems, but by building your igloo into a hillside, the slope will cut down on the surface area of your igloo dome. Less surface area means fewer bricks, and fewer bricks mean less work for you.\\nIn survival situations, a hillside building site should be prioritized.\\nAvoid free-standing mounds, as these are likely logs or boulders buried in snow.\\nUse a snow prod or a long stick to verify usable space for your igloo.\\n1-2. Use a snow prod to test the snow for consistency.\\nIdeally, you'll want to cut the bricks of your igloo from snow that is hard packed with no soft layers of soft snow in it. Use your snow prod or a long stick to check the snow, which should offer firm, uniform resistance if hard packed throughout.\\nMeasure the depth of your snow while checking consistency. You'll want the snow to be at least 2 feet (0.61 m) deep to make your igloo.\\n1-3. Outline the outer wall of your igloo.\\nUse the heel of your boot to scuff out a line marking the circular outside of your igloo. The snow on the inside of your circle should all be consistently hard packed, and your circle should be regular in shape.\\nA poorly outlined outer wall will result in your igloo's design being less stable and sturdy.\\nNever build a dome with a diameter larger than 10 feet (3.0 m), as it will require you to build a perfect dome. This is a nearly impossible task, even with special tools.\\n1-4. Know your general plan for igloo construction.\\nYou'll soon be using snow blocks cut from the snow inside the outer perimeter of your igloo to build the walls of your igloo dome. You'll be building from the inside out, cutting the door of your structure after finishing your dome from the inside.\\n1-5. Cut a narrow rectangular trench to prepare to harvest blocks.\\nDepending on the size of your igloo, the size of your blocks can change, but traditionally igloo blocks are 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick. Cut a narrow rectangular trench with your snow knife to accommodate several blocks this size. \\nCut your trench in a way that places one of its short ends flat against the outer perimeter line of your igloo.\\nThe place your trench and outer wall boundaries meet will eventually become your outside door.\\nIf working on a slope or building your igloo into a hillside, dig your trench directly toward the slope.\\nA handsaw or machete can be used in place of a snow knife.\\n2. Making Your Igloo Dome\\n2-1. Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row.\\nSection the hard packed snow inside the perimeter of your rectangular trench into equal rectangular blocks. Stubborn blocks can be broken free by sticking your snow tool into the cut around the block and gently wiggling it back and forth until the block is broken free. Then arrange your blocks around the perimeter of your igloo to create the first layer of your dome.\\nYour blocks should be 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick, and should taper slightly as you build upward.\\nRun your snow knife, machete, or handsaw along the edges of your first row of blocks where one block joins the next. This will smooth contours and help fit each block together tightly.\\nWhen your rectangular trench no longer has snow for blocks, cut another trench the same dimensions as the first. All the snow used in building your dome should come from within the perimeter of the igloo.\\n2-2. Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks.\\nDue to the rectangular shape of your blocks, you will need to cut a gentle slope inclining from the ground all the way to the top height of your first row of snow blocks. This incline should extend part way around your igloo (perhaps even as much as halfway), and should be cut with your snow knife, machete, or handsaw.\\nThis incline will allow your blocks to be stacked in a vertical spiral, creating a snug fit.\\n2-3. Level and shape igloo walls when necessary.\\nThis will make stacking and layering the ice blocks much easier. Additionally, as you build your dome upward, you will need to shape your snow blocks to fit the reduced space at the top of your dome. Use your snow knife, machete, or handsaw to do this as necessary.\\nEach row of your igloo dome should slope gradually inward. Use your snow knife, machete, or saw to create a very gentle inward slope for each row of snow blocks.\\nUsing your hand, plug any gaps you find in your dome from the inside with snow. Simply pat snow into the gap until it is filled.\\n2-4. Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter.\\nContinue to liberate blocks from the snow within your igloo perimeter with your snow knife/machete, and then stack your next layer starting from the sloping end of your first row. As your dome wall rises, blocks will begin to decrease in size and slope inward.\\nTo increase stability and prevent ceiling blocks from falling, bevel the edges where ceiling blocks meet the row beneath.\\nTo bevel, cut the inside corner of your ceiling block so that it forms a flat base with its neighboring block beneath.\\n2-5. Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully.\\nThe topmost blocks in your igloo dome are notoriously tricky to fit into place, so take your time and work carefully during this leg of your igloo building. Use your snow knife/machete to sculpt these pieces to fit tightly together.\\nSince your final hole will be exceptionally small, you will have to turn your final block on its end and feed it through the hole on its side.\\nWhen your final cap-hole piece is balanced on the outer top part of the dome, cut it down to fit in place snugly with your snow knife/machete.\\n3. Finishing Your Igloo\\n3-1. Carve vents in your igloo to prevent CO2 poisoning.\\nYour body heat will cause the snow of your dome to melt and then freeze again, creating a barrier between the inside and outside of your igloo. Without ventilation this seal will prevent the CO2 that you exhale from escaping, and could seriously harm you.\\nCut small, crescent shaped vents into the top or sides of your igloo to prevent the buildup of CO2.\\n3-2. Cut your entrance.\\nNow that you have the dome of your igloo created and some vents carved into place, you're ready to make an entrance. Use your snow knife/machete to cut a rectangle from the bottom of your block deep igloo base to about eye-level high, while crouching, in your dome wall. Your cut should be as deep as your dome wall is thick.\\nTry to preserve this block by pulling it inside the igloo. You can save this block to create an overhang for your entrance.\\n3-3. Clear your entrance way.\\nRemove the remaining snow from your entrance in an gentle upward slope. You can pull this snow inside your igloo and use it for further patching gaps from the inside, or you can simply push it outside. Once your sloped entrance is finished, take the rectangular block you cut free of your dome wall and turn it on its side to remove it from your igloo. Then:\\nCut the rectangular dome-wall block in half.\\nLean each half of your block inward over your entrance trench so that each one holds the other up in an upside down V shape.\\nThis upside V overhang for your entrance should be as close to the mouth of the entrance as possible, to provide the most protection.\\n3-4. Strengthen your exterior with snow and enjoy your igloo.\\nYour igloo can be made even more durable to patching thin spots and gaps with more snow. Some gaps may be most easily patched from the inside, while you might have better access to others from outside. In either case, use your hand to press the snow into the gap and then smooth the area to pack it together.\\nYou should be able to assess the stability of your igloo by touch. If the blocks feel solid and sturdy, your igloo should withstand the elements.\\nEven if your igloo is a little on the rickety side, in the event of a cave-in, you'll be able to dig yourself free from the snow easily.\\nTips\\nIf your area does not have suitable snow, you can make use of store-bought snow block molds. These can be purchased from some winter sports stores or general online retailers.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nMake your own block molds by making a rectangular frame from four boards. Rectangular containers, like wastebaskets, will also work.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nGet a partner if possible. Two experienced igloo builders can make an igloo in under two hours.\\nWarnings\\nSmall cooking stoves can be used in your igloo as long as it is large and well-ventilated. You should use the stove sparingly, and not for warmth. Position the stove where the fumes can freely flow out of the igloo, such as beneath an air vent.\\nBuilding an igloo is not the most convenient way to create shelter in a survival situation. See How to Build a Snow Cave for a more emergency-appropriate solution.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While the Eskimo or Inuit word \\\"igloo\\\" can represent many kinds of habitations in a snowy environment, this article describes what most people imagine when they picture an igloo: a dome-shaped structure built from blocks of snow (also referred to as a snow house). A properly constructed igloo can have an inner temperature ranging from −7 °C (19 °F) to 16 °C (61 °F), even if the temperature outside dips to −45 °C (−49 °F)! Building an igloo is relatively simple, and can be done over the course of a few hours. All you need is the right kind of snow and some know-how, and your igloo will be sure to impress.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plotting out Your Igloo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build on a slope to save effort.\", \"描述\": \"Of course, an igloo can be built on flat land without any problems, but by building your igloo into a hillside, the slope will cut down on the surface area of your igloo dome. Less surface area means fewer bricks, and fewer bricks mean less work for you.\\nIn survival situations, a hillside building site should be prioritized.\\nAvoid free-standing mounds, as these are likely logs or boulders buried in snow.\\nUse a snow prod or a long stick to verify usable space for your igloo.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a snow prod to test the snow for consistency.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally, you'll want to cut the bricks of your igloo from snow that is hard packed with no soft layers of soft snow in it. Use your snow prod or a long stick to check the snow, which should offer firm, uniform resistance if hard packed throughout.\\nMeasure the depth of your snow while checking consistency. You'll want the snow to be at least 2 feet (0.61 m) deep to make your igloo.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Outline the outer wall of your igloo.\", \"描述\": \"Use the heel of your boot to scuff out a line marking the circular outside of your igloo. The snow on the inside of your circle should all be consistently hard packed, and your circle should be regular in shape.\\nA poorly outlined outer wall will result in your igloo's design being less stable and sturdy.\\nNever build a dome with a diameter larger than 10 feet (3.0 m), as it will require you to build a perfect dome. This is a nearly impossible task, even with special tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Know your general plan for igloo construction.\", \"描述\": \"You'll soon be using snow blocks cut from the snow inside the outer perimeter of your igloo to build the walls of your igloo dome. You'll be building from the inside out, cutting the door of your structure after finishing your dome from the inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut a narrow rectangular trench to prepare to harvest blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the size of your igloo, the size of your blocks can change, but traditionally igloo blocks are 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick. Cut a narrow rectangular trench with your snow knife to accommodate several blocks this size. \\nCut your trench in a way that places one of its short ends flat against the outer perimeter line of your igloo.\\nThe place your trench and outer wall boundaries meet will eventually become your outside door.\\nIf working on a slope or building your igloo into a hillside, dig your trench directly toward the slope.\\nA handsaw or machete can be used in place of a snow knife.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making Your Igloo Dome\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row.\", \"描述\": \"Section the hard packed snow inside the perimeter of your rectangular trench into equal rectangular blocks. Stubborn blocks can be broken free by sticking your snow tool into the cut around the block and gently wiggling it back and forth until the block is broken free. Then arrange your blocks around the perimeter of your igloo to create the first layer of your dome.\\nYour blocks should be 3 feet (0.91 m) long, 15 inches (38 cm) high, and about 8 inches (20 cm) thick, and should taper slightly as you build upward.\\nRun your snow knife, machete, or handsaw along the edges of your first row of blocks where one block joins the next. This will smooth contours and help fit each block together tightly.\\nWhen your rectangular trench no longer has snow for blocks, cut another trench the same dimensions as the first. All the snow used in building your dome should come from within the perimeter of the igloo.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Due to the rectangular shape of your blocks, you will need to cut a gentle slope inclining from the ground all the way to the top height of your first row of snow blocks. This incline should extend part way around your igloo (perhaps even as much as halfway), and should be cut with your snow knife, machete, or handsaw.\\nThis incline will allow your blocks to be stacked in a vertical spiral, creating a snug fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level and shape igloo walls when necessary.\", \"描述\": \"This will make stacking and layering the ice blocks much easier. Additionally, as you build your dome upward, you will need to shape your snow blocks to fit the reduced space at the top of your dome. Use your snow knife, machete, or handsaw to do this as necessary.\\nEach row of your igloo dome should slope gradually inward. Use your snow knife, machete, or saw to create a very gentle inward slope for each row of snow blocks.\\nUsing your hand, plug any gaps you find in your dome from the inside with snow. Simply pat snow into the gap until it is filled.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"Continue to liberate blocks from the snow within your igloo perimeter with your snow knife/machete, and then stack your next layer starting from the sloping end of your first row. As your dome wall rises, blocks will begin to decrease in size and slope inward.\\nTo increase stability and prevent ceiling blocks from falling, bevel the edges where ceiling blocks meet the row beneath.\\nTo bevel, cut the inside corner of your ceiling block so that it forms a flat base with its neighboring block beneath.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully.\", \"描述\": \"The topmost blocks in your igloo dome are notoriously tricky to fit into place, so take your time and work carefully during this leg of your igloo building. Use your snow knife/machete to sculpt these pieces to fit tightly together.\\nSince your final hole will be exceptionally small, you will have to turn your final block on its end and feed it through the hole on its side.\\nWhen your final cap-hole piece is balanced on the outer top part of the dome, cut it down to fit in place snugly with your snow knife/machete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing Your Igloo\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Carve vents in your igloo to prevent CO2 poisoning.\", \"描述\": \"Your body heat will cause the snow of your dome to melt and then freeze again, creating a barrier between the inside and outside of your igloo. Without ventilation this seal will prevent the CO2 that you exhale from escaping, and could seriously harm you.\\nCut small, crescent shaped vents into the top or sides of your igloo to prevent the buildup of CO2.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your entrance.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have the dome of your igloo created and some vents carved into place, you're ready to make an entrance. Use your snow knife/machete to cut a rectangle from the bottom of your block deep igloo base to about eye-level high, while crouching, in your dome wall. Your cut should be as deep as your dome wall is thick.\\nTry to preserve this block by pulling it inside the igloo. You can save this block to create an overhang for your entrance.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clear your entrance way.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the remaining snow from your entrance in an gentle upward slope. You can pull this snow inside your igloo and use it for further patching gaps from the inside, or you can simply push it outside. Once your sloped entrance is finished, take the rectangular block you cut free of your dome wall and turn it on its side to remove it from your igloo. Then:\\nCut the rectangular dome-wall block in half.\\nLean each half of your block inward over your entrance trench so that each one holds the other up in an upside down V shape.\\nThis upside V overhang for your entrance should be as close to the mouth of the entrance as possible, to provide the most protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Strengthen your exterior with snow and enjoy your igloo.\", \"描述\": \"Your igloo can be made even more durable to patching thin spots and gaps with more snow. Some gaps may be most easily patched from the inside, while you might have better access to others from outside. In either case, use your hand to press the snow into the gap and then smooth the area to pack it together.\\nYou should be able to assess the stability of your igloo by touch. If the blocks feel solid and sturdy, your igloo should withstand the elements.\\nEven if your igloo is a little on the rickety side, in the event of a cave-in, you'll be able to dig yourself free from the snow easily.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If your area does not have suitable snow, you can make use of store-bought snow block molds. These can be purchased from some winter sports stores or general online retailers.[21]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Make your own block molds by making a rectangular frame from four boards. Rectangular containers, like wastebaskets, will also work.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Get a partner if possible. Two experienced igloo builders can make an igloo in under two hours.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Small cooking stoves can be used in your igloo as long as it is large and well-ventilated. You should use the stove sparingly, and not for warmth. Position the stove where the fumes can freely flow out of the igloo, such as beneath an air vent.\\n\", \"Building an igloo is not the most convenient way to create shelter in a survival situation. See How to Build a Snow Cave for a more emergency-appropriate solution.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,660 |
How to Build an Iguana Cage
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1. Planning Your Cage
1-1. Research the iguana lifestyle.
The environment an animal needs to thrive as a pet depends on several factors, including:
The size of the adult animal. Most people purchase a baby iguana when it is only a few inches long, but adult iguanas can reach 20 pounds and 5-7 feet from the tip of their tail to their nose. They live to be about 20 years old and reach their full size at about 2-3 years. It is crucial that iguana habitats are built to accommodate this size.
The type of habitat it has in the wild. Because an animal's natural habitat is ideal for its temperament, habits, and adaptive traits, the environment you construct must mimic the natural habitat to the greatest extent possible. Wild green iguanas are naturally found in rain forests throughout Mexico and Central and South America.
Its habits. In the wild, iguanas live in trees and rarely come to the ground. They are good jumpers, and they enjoy swimming. They are diurnal, which means they sleep at night and are active during the day, and because they are cold-blooded they tend to sunbathe in the morning to raise their body temperatures. Knowing these features of iguanas can help you to prepare the optimal environment.
1-2. Plan where your cage will go.
Because iguanas can grow as large as 6 feet from head to tail, an enclosure must be quite large in order for the adult iguana to have room to move around and explore.
In general, this means the cage will need to be about 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. The height is crucial, since iguanas live in trees and the enclosure must contain perches or branches for it to climb.
Most iguana owners reserve the length of a wall for their iguana's enclosure. The enclosures generally need to be too high and heavy to place them atop furniture.
1-3. Consider the type of enclosure that is right for you.
As long as they are large enough and kept at the right temperature, iguana enclosures can be made from a variety of materials including plastic wire, Plexiglas, or even a large re-purposed china cabinet.
One thing to keep in mind is accessibility. You will need to easily put food and water inside the enclosure, and you need to be able to clean and disinfect the entire habitat (floors, walls, branches, food dishes, etc.) about once a week. Be sure that the enclosure you design is accessible for these purposes.
Keep in mind whether or not the enclosure will be seen by visitors to your home. This can help you make a decision about how fancy or simple it should be, and whether or not you should take the time to design an enclosure that will blend with the decor of your home.
2. Creating a Blueprint and Purchasing Supplies
2-1. Create a blueprint for the layout of the cage.
Using graphing paper, draw the front, sides, top, and bottom of the cage to scale. It is simplest to create a rectangular design, but a more experienced builder can create any design as long as it is tall and wide enough.
Be sure to include where you will place a door, several branches or perches, a light source at the top on one side (it should keep one side warm and the other side less so, so the animal has a place to go to cool down), and a water source at the bottom.
Consider making one side or wall removable for easy cleaning, as the entire cage will need to be disinfected weekly. Some people build a large, human sized door into the enclosure, so that they can easily step inside to clean it or spend time with their pet.
2-2. Choose your materials.
Because iguanas spend most of their time in the branches, the frame and walls can be constructed from a variety of materials.
The frame can be constructed of PVC pipe or wood. Use standard hard woods that come in 2x4s like pine or spruce, but avoid aromatic woods like cedar or redwood which contain oils that can be dangerous for iguanas.
Most people construct their enclosure walls from Plexiglas, plastic mesh (not wire, unless it is covered with plastic, as it can hurt your iguana's toes), or tempered glass so that they can see their iguana, but this is not strictly necessary. You can use solid wood if you choose.
PVC pipe and plastic mesh (or wire mesh covered in plastic) is a good plan for a cage that can be rolled outdoors on warm days. However, Plexiglas or glass will get too hot inside from the greenhouse effect, so plan to keep a Plexiglas or glass enclosure indoors.
Consider building your enclosure on wheels to make moving it easier.
2-3. Purchase your supplies.
You will need lumber or PVC pipe for the frame, plastic mesh or Plexiglas for the walls, pre-made perches or sealed wood branches, tools for construction, and a heat lamp and water source for the completed enclosure.
Purchase enough lumber or PVC pipe to build a cage according to your blueprint measurements, but at least 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. If you're using PVC, consider buying special fittings like the "3-Way Ell" which is a joint that connects the angles of the structure.
Purchase enough plastic or plastic-covered wire mesh, Plexiglas, or tempered glass for your floors, walls, and ceiling, along with glue or PVC cement to seal it to the frame. If you're using mesh, you can also dry-fit the mesh to the frame using zip ties.
Purchase or make perches. These are available widely at pet stores and online, or they can be simple wood branches that are stripped and sealed. Just be sure that they are made from safe woods such as spruce or fir.
Get a saw or hacksaw, to cut the wood or PVC frame to length. You can also ask the home supply or hardware store if they can cut the wood or PVC for you, as long as you know your correct measurements. You will also need some side-cutters or electrician's pliers to cut the mesh if you're using it, and wood stain (if desired) and a water-based polyurethane sealant if you're building with wood.
Purchase a heat lamp, available at most pet stores. An adult iguana will need a hotspot of at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that includes both UVA and UVB light. You can use a special heat lamp that fits these specifications from the pet store, or build your own fixture using fluorescent tubes. One reliable and simple option is to use two ZooMed 5.0 bulbs, available online, mounted in a high-quality fluorescent fixture, which can be purchased in any hardware store.
3. Constructing the Cage
3-1. Build the frame of your iguana cage.
This will be the first step, and then you will affix the walls, floor, and ceiling to a completed frame. It’s a good idea to build this in place in the room you'll keep it in; otherwise a large enclosure may not fit through the doorway.
Cut the wood or PVC pipe to your desired dimensions and affix frames for each side of the cage with glue and butt joints.
Once each side of the cage has been constructed, nail or glue the sides together to create the cube.
Include a door mechanism on the frame for easy access inside. This can be a removable top, a hinged door on one side, or both.
3-2. Apply a water-based polyurethane wood sealant if your frame is made of wood.
This will prevent deterioration. If you plan to stain or paint the frame, be sure to seal after painting.
The sealant will make the wood easier to clean and protect your iguana from fumes.
3-3. Staple the mesh to the sides of the cage, or alternately, affix it securely and tightly using zip ties.
Make sure to leave no more than 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) holes in the walls.
If you are using Plexiglas or tempered glass, glue it to the frame instead of stapling it.
Cut and nail additional wood to place over the corners of the frame if using mesh as a side material.
3-4. Affix the heat lamp inside the iguana cage.
It should be at the top and off to one side, so that the iguana has a warmer and cooler region in the enclosure.
The heat source must be located no more than 8" above where the iguana will spend its time basking (generally the top of the enclosure), because iguanas have sensors on their foreheads that regulate how frequently they need to bask.
Affix the heat lamp to the top of the enclosure using zip ties, ensuring that cords extend on the outside of the cage. Be sure that if the fluorescent bulbs are exposed, you cover them with a wire bulb guard to prevent your iguana from touching the bulb and burning its skin.
You should also install a couple of reliable thermometers in various locations in the enclosure to ensure that it is kept at the right temperature, which is crucial to iguana health. Under the basking light should be low to mid 90s (Fahrenheit) and the rest of the enclosure should be no lower than 80 degrees.
3-5. Place a water source inside the cage.
In the wild, iguanas are excellent swimmers, and actually stay hydrated in part by soaking in water.
You can use a large bowl or other container filled with water. Iguanas need a water source that is not only for drinking but also big enough to climb inside.
3-6. Install a ramp, shelving, perches, or branches, or add small trees inside the cage.
You can attach these using secure zip ties or additional glue.
Iguanas like to climb and bask in heat. They need exercise and the ability to get closer to the heat lamps to digest their food.
Be creative, but ensure that it is accessible to the iguana. Branches and layers in the enclosure should ensure that the iguana can move to a variety of temperature zones by getting closer or farther from the heat source. For safety, the branches should be as wide as the width of your iguana.
3-7. Put the finishing touches on your enclosure.
Before putting the iguana in its new habitat, ensure everything is put together properly for its arrival.
Place newspaper at the bottom of the cage for easy cleanup.
Ensure that there is fresh water in the bowl and plenty of food. Iguanas are strict herbivores and enjoy a varied diet of consisting of mostly vegetables (primarily leafy green vegetables), some fruit, and an occasional treat of cooked rice, pasta, or whole wheat bread. Use a shallow bowl for food (plastic, ceramic, or glass will work fine) and change it daily.
Tips
Although you may be tempted to start your baby iguana in a large enclosure, it is generally best to keep a baby iguana in a 20 gallon aquarium until it is about 18 inches long. The smaller size helps them to feel secure in their new home and helps ensure they will find their food and water source.[14]
X
Research source
If you cannot accommodate an adult iguana habitat, do not adopt one.
If you are considering adopting an iguana, check your local area for reptile rescue programs. Many people buy baby iguanas but realize they cannot accommodate them as adults, and abandon them.
Warnings
Do not place just any plant in the cage. Some plants are toxic to iguanas. Perform research on safe flora for placing in the cage.
Do not use a heat rock. Iguanas do not feel the heat from the bottom and will cook themselves and not know it. They gauge heat from the top.
If you're building the cage outdoors and bringing it inside, make sure the cage can fit through the door.
Do not overheat the iguana cage. Consult a herpetology specialist about the temperature and size of heat lamps.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Cage\\n1-1. Research the iguana lifestyle.\\nThe environment an animal needs to thrive as a pet depends on several factors, including:\\nThe size of the adult animal. Most people purchase a baby iguana when it is only a few inches long, but adult iguanas can reach 20 pounds and 5-7 feet from the tip of their tail to their nose. They live to be about 20 years old and reach their full size at about 2-3 years. It is crucial that iguana habitats are built to accommodate this size.\\nThe type of habitat it has in the wild. Because an animal's natural habitat is ideal for its temperament, habits, and adaptive traits, the environment you construct must mimic the natural habitat to the greatest extent possible. Wild green iguanas are naturally found in rain forests throughout Mexico and Central and South America.\\nIts habits. In the wild, iguanas live in trees and rarely come to the ground. They are good jumpers, and they enjoy swimming. They are diurnal, which means they sleep at night and are active during the day, and because they are cold-blooded they tend to sunbathe in the morning to raise their body temperatures. Knowing these features of iguanas can help you to prepare the optimal environment.\\n1-2. Plan where your cage will go.\\nBecause iguanas can grow as large as 6 feet from head to tail, an enclosure must be quite large in order for the adult iguana to have room to move around and explore.\\nIn general, this means the cage will need to be about 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. The height is crucial, since iguanas live in trees and the enclosure must contain perches or branches for it to climb.\\nMost iguana owners reserve the length of a wall for their iguana's enclosure. The enclosures generally need to be too high and heavy to place them atop furniture.\\n1-3. Consider the type of enclosure that is right for you.\\nAs long as they are large enough and kept at the right temperature, iguana enclosures can be made from a variety of materials including plastic wire, Plexiglas, or even a large re-purposed china cabinet.\\nOne thing to keep in mind is accessibility. You will need to easily put food and water inside the enclosure, and you need to be able to clean and disinfect the entire habitat (floors, walls, branches, food dishes, etc.) about once a week. Be sure that the enclosure you design is accessible for these purposes.\\nKeep in mind whether or not the enclosure will be seen by visitors to your home. This can help you make a decision about how fancy or simple it should be, and whether or not you should take the time to design an enclosure that will blend with the decor of your home.\\n2. Creating a Blueprint and Purchasing Supplies\\n2-1. Create a blueprint for the layout of the cage.\\nUsing graphing paper, draw the front, sides, top, and bottom of the cage to scale. It is simplest to create a rectangular design, but a more experienced builder can create any design as long as it is tall and wide enough.\\nBe sure to include where you will place a door, several branches or perches, a light source at the top on one side (it should keep one side warm and the other side less so, so the animal has a place to go to cool down), and a water source at the bottom.\\nConsider making one side or wall removable for easy cleaning, as the entire cage will need to be disinfected weekly. Some people build a large, human sized door into the enclosure, so that they can easily step inside to clean it or spend time with their pet.\\n2-2. Choose your materials.\\nBecause iguanas spend most of their time in the branches, the frame and walls can be constructed from a variety of materials.\\nThe frame can be constructed of PVC pipe or wood. Use standard hard woods that come in 2x4s like pine or spruce, but avoid aromatic woods like cedar or redwood which contain oils that can be dangerous for iguanas.\\nMost people construct their enclosure walls from Plexiglas, plastic mesh (not wire, unless it is covered with plastic, as it can hurt your iguana's toes), or tempered glass so that they can see their iguana, but this is not strictly necessary. You can use solid wood if you choose.\\nPVC pipe and plastic mesh (or wire mesh covered in plastic) is a good plan for a cage that can be rolled outdoors on warm days. However, Plexiglas or glass will get too hot inside from the greenhouse effect, so plan to keep a Plexiglas or glass enclosure indoors.\\nConsider building your enclosure on wheels to make moving it easier.\\n2-3. Purchase your supplies.\\nYou will need lumber or PVC pipe for the frame, plastic mesh or Plexiglas for the walls, pre-made perches or sealed wood branches, tools for construction, and a heat lamp and water source for the completed enclosure.\\nPurchase enough lumber or PVC pipe to build a cage according to your blueprint measurements, but at least 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. If you're using PVC, consider buying special fittings like the \\\"3-Way Ell\\\" which is a joint that connects the angles of the structure.\\nPurchase enough plastic or plastic-covered wire mesh, Plexiglas, or tempered glass for your floors, walls, and ceiling, along with glue or PVC cement to seal it to the frame. If you're using mesh, you can also dry-fit the mesh to the frame using zip ties.\\nPurchase or make perches. These are available widely at pet stores and online, or they can be simple wood branches that are stripped and sealed. Just be sure that they are made from safe woods such as spruce or fir.\\nGet a saw or hacksaw, to cut the wood or PVC frame to length. You can also ask the home supply or hardware store if they can cut the wood or PVC for you, as long as you know your correct measurements. You will also need some side-cutters or electrician's pliers to cut the mesh if you're using it, and wood stain (if desired) and a water-based polyurethane sealant if you're building with wood.\\nPurchase a heat lamp, available at most pet stores. An adult iguana will need a hotspot of at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that includes both UVA and UVB light. You can use a special heat lamp that fits these specifications from the pet store, or build your own fixture using fluorescent tubes. One reliable and simple option is to use two ZooMed 5.0 bulbs, available online, mounted in a high-quality fluorescent fixture, which can be purchased in any hardware store.\\n3. Constructing the Cage\\n3-1. Build the frame of your iguana cage.\\nThis will be the first step, and then you will affix the walls, floor, and ceiling to a completed frame. It’s a good idea to build this in place in the room you'll keep it in; otherwise a large enclosure may not fit through the doorway.\\nCut the wood or PVC pipe to your desired dimensions and affix frames for each side of the cage with glue and butt joints.\\nOnce each side of the cage has been constructed, nail or glue the sides together to create the cube.\\nInclude a door mechanism on the frame for easy access inside. This can be a removable top, a hinged door on one side, or both.\\n3-2. Apply a water-based polyurethane wood sealant if your frame is made of wood.\\nThis will prevent deterioration. If you plan to stain or paint the frame, be sure to seal after painting.\\nThe sealant will make the wood easier to clean and protect your iguana from fumes.\\n3-3. Staple the mesh to the sides of the cage, or alternately, affix it securely and tightly using zip ties.\\nMake sure to leave no more than 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) holes in the walls.\\nIf you are using Plexiglas or tempered glass, glue it to the frame instead of stapling it.\\nCut and nail additional wood to place over the corners of the frame if using mesh as a side material.\\n3-4. Affix the heat lamp inside the iguana cage.\\nIt should be at the top and off to one side, so that the iguana has a warmer and cooler region in the enclosure.\\nThe heat source must be located no more than 8\\\" above where the iguana will spend its time basking (generally the top of the enclosure), because iguanas have sensors on their foreheads that regulate how frequently they need to bask.\\nAffix the heat lamp to the top of the enclosure using zip ties, ensuring that cords extend on the outside of the cage. Be sure that if the fluorescent bulbs are exposed, you cover them with a wire bulb guard to prevent your iguana from touching the bulb and burning its skin.\\nYou should also install a couple of reliable thermometers in various locations in the enclosure to ensure that it is kept at the right temperature, which is crucial to iguana health. Under the basking light should be low to mid 90s (Fahrenheit) and the rest of the enclosure should be no lower than 80 degrees.\\n3-5. Place a water source inside the cage.\\nIn the wild, iguanas are excellent swimmers, and actually stay hydrated in part by soaking in water. \\nYou can use a large bowl or other container filled with water. Iguanas need a water source that is not only for drinking but also big enough to climb inside.\\n3-6. Install a ramp, shelving, perches, or branches, or add small trees inside the cage.\\nYou can attach these using secure zip ties or additional glue.\\nIguanas like to climb and bask in heat. They need exercise and the ability to get closer to the heat lamps to digest their food.\\nBe creative, but ensure that it is accessible to the iguana. Branches and layers in the enclosure should ensure that the iguana can move to a variety of temperature zones by getting closer or farther from the heat source. For safety, the branches should be as wide as the width of your iguana.\\n3-7. Put the finishing touches on your enclosure.\\nBefore putting the iguana in its new habitat, ensure everything is put together properly for its arrival.\\nPlace newspaper at the bottom of the cage for easy cleanup.\\nEnsure that there is fresh water in the bowl and plenty of food. Iguanas are strict herbivores and enjoy a varied diet of consisting of mostly vegetables (primarily leafy green vegetables), some fruit, and an occasional treat of cooked rice, pasta, or whole wheat bread. Use a shallow bowl for food (plastic, ceramic, or glass will work fine) and change it daily.\\nTips\\nAlthough you may be tempted to start your baby iguana in a large enclosure, it is generally best to keep a baby iguana in a 20 gallon aquarium until it is about 18 inches long. The smaller size helps them to feel secure in their new home and helps ensure they will find their food and water source.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf you cannot accommodate an adult iguana habitat, do not adopt one.\\nIf you are considering adopting an iguana, check your local area for reptile rescue programs. Many people buy baby iguanas but realize they cannot accommodate them as adults, and abandon them.\\nWarnings\\nDo not place just any plant in the cage. Some plants are toxic to iguanas. Perform research on safe flora for placing in the cage.\\nDo not use a heat rock. Iguanas do not feel the heat from the bottom and will cook themselves and not know it. They gauge heat from the top.\\nIf you're building the cage outdoors and bringing it inside, make sure the cage can fit through the door.\\nDo not overheat the iguana cage. Consult a herpetology specialist about the temperature and size of heat lamps.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Iguanas are large, cold-blooded reptiles that make great pets, but also require a very specific environment to thrive. When they are young, iguanas can easily fit in a store-bought aquarium, but will outgrow it in less than a year. Pre-made cages for full-sized iguanas are often expensive, so use these steps to build an iguana enclosure at home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research the iguana lifestyle.\", \"描述\": \"The environment an animal needs to thrive as a pet depends on several factors, including:\\nThe size of the adult animal. Most people purchase a baby iguana when it is only a few inches long, but adult iguanas can reach 20 pounds and 5-7 feet from the tip of their tail to their nose. They live to be about 20 years old and reach their full size at about 2-3 years. It is crucial that iguana habitats are built to accommodate this size.\\nThe type of habitat it has in the wild. Because an animal's natural habitat is ideal for its temperament, habits, and adaptive traits, the environment you construct must mimic the natural habitat to the greatest extent possible. Wild green iguanas are naturally found in rain forests throughout Mexico and Central and South America.\\nIts habits. In the wild, iguanas live in trees and rarely come to the ground. They are good jumpers, and they enjoy swimming. They are diurnal, which means they sleep at night and are active during the day, and because they are cold-blooded they tend to sunbathe in the morning to raise their body temperatures. Knowing these features of iguanas can help you to prepare the optimal environment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan where your cage will go.\", \"描述\": \"Because iguanas can grow as large as 6 feet from head to tail, an enclosure must be quite large in order for the adult iguana to have room to move around and explore.\\nIn general, this means the cage will need to be about 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. The height is crucial, since iguanas live in trees and the enclosure must contain perches or branches for it to climb.\\nMost iguana owners reserve the length of a wall for their iguana's enclosure. The enclosures generally need to be too high and heavy to place them atop furniture.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider the type of enclosure that is right for you.\", \"描述\": \"As long as they are large enough and kept at the right temperature, iguana enclosures can be made from a variety of materials including plastic wire, Plexiglas, or even a large re-purposed china cabinet.\\nOne thing to keep in mind is accessibility. You will need to easily put food and water inside the enclosure, and you need to be able to clean and disinfect the entire habitat (floors, walls, branches, food dishes, etc.) about once a week. Be sure that the enclosure you design is accessible for these purposes.\\nKeep in mind whether or not the enclosure will be seen by visitors to your home. This can help you make a decision about how fancy or simple it should be, and whether or not you should take the time to design an enclosure that will blend with the decor of your home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Blueprint and Purchasing Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a blueprint for the layout of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Using graphing paper, draw the front, sides, top, and bottom of the cage to scale. It is simplest to create a rectangular design, but a more experienced builder can create any design as long as it is tall and wide enough.\\nBe sure to include where you will place a door, several branches or perches, a light source at the top on one side (it should keep one side warm and the other side less so, so the animal has a place to go to cool down), and a water source at the bottom.\\nConsider making one side or wall removable for easy cleaning, as the entire cage will need to be disinfected weekly. Some people build a large, human sized door into the enclosure, so that they can easily step inside to clean it or spend time with their pet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Because iguanas spend most of their time in the branches, the frame and walls can be constructed from a variety of materials.\\nThe frame can be constructed of PVC pipe or wood. Use standard hard woods that come in 2x4s like pine or spruce, but avoid aromatic woods like cedar or redwood which contain oils that can be dangerous for iguanas.\\nMost people construct their enclosure walls from Plexiglas, plastic mesh (not wire, unless it is covered with plastic, as it can hurt your iguana's toes), or tempered glass so that they can see their iguana, but this is not strictly necessary. You can use solid wood if you choose.\\nPVC pipe and plastic mesh (or wire mesh covered in plastic) is a good plan for a cage that can be rolled outdoors on warm days. However, Plexiglas or glass will get too hot inside from the greenhouse effect, so plan to keep a Plexiglas or glass enclosure indoors.\\nConsider building your enclosure on wheels to make moving it easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need lumber or PVC pipe for the frame, plastic mesh or Plexiglas for the walls, pre-made perches or sealed wood branches, tools for construction, and a heat lamp and water source for the completed enclosure.\\nPurchase enough lumber or PVC pipe to build a cage according to your blueprint measurements, but at least 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. If you're using PVC, consider buying special fittings like the \\\"3-Way Ell\\\" which is a joint that connects the angles of the structure.\\nPurchase enough plastic or plastic-covered wire mesh, Plexiglas, or tempered glass for your floors, walls, and ceiling, along with glue or PVC cement to seal it to the frame. If you're using mesh, you can also dry-fit the mesh to the frame using zip ties.\\nPurchase or make perches. These are available widely at pet stores and online, or they can be simple wood branches that are stripped and sealed. Just be sure that they are made from safe woods such as spruce or fir.\\nGet a saw or hacksaw, to cut the wood or PVC frame to length. You can also ask the home supply or hardware store if they can cut the wood or PVC for you, as long as you know your correct measurements. You will also need some side-cutters or electrician's pliers to cut the mesh if you're using it, and wood stain (if desired) and a water-based polyurethane sealant if you're building with wood.\\nPurchase a heat lamp, available at most pet stores. An adult iguana will need a hotspot of at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that includes both UVA and UVB light. You can use a special heat lamp that fits these specifications from the pet store, or build your own fixture using fluorescent tubes. One reliable and simple option is to use two ZooMed 5.0 bulbs, available online, mounted in a high-quality fluorescent fixture, which can be purchased in any hardware store.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the frame of your iguana cage.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the first step, and then you will affix the walls, floor, and ceiling to a completed frame. It’s a good idea to build this in place in the room you'll keep it in; otherwise a large enclosure may not fit through the doorway.\\nCut the wood or PVC pipe to your desired dimensions and affix frames for each side of the cage with glue and butt joints.\\nOnce each side of the cage has been constructed, nail or glue the sides together to create the cube.\\nInclude a door mechanism on the frame for easy access inside. This can be a removable top, a hinged door on one side, or both.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply a water-based polyurethane wood sealant if your frame is made of wood.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent deterioration. If you plan to stain or paint the frame, be sure to seal after painting.\\nThe sealant will make the wood easier to clean and protect your iguana from fumes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staple the mesh to the sides of the cage, or alternately, affix it securely and tightly using zip ties.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to leave no more than 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) holes in the walls.\\nIf you are using Plexiglas or tempered glass, glue it to the frame instead of stapling it.\\nCut and nail additional wood to place over the corners of the frame if using mesh as a side material.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Affix the heat lamp inside the iguana cage.\", \"描述\": \"It should be at the top and off to one side, so that the iguana has a warmer and cooler region in the enclosure.\\nThe heat source must be located no more than 8\\\" above where the iguana will spend its time basking (generally the top of the enclosure), because iguanas have sensors on their foreheads that regulate how frequently they need to bask.\\nAffix the heat lamp to the top of the enclosure using zip ties, ensuring that cords extend on the outside of the cage. Be sure that if the fluorescent bulbs are exposed, you cover them with a wire bulb guard to prevent your iguana from touching the bulb and burning its skin.\\nYou should also install a couple of reliable thermometers in various locations in the enclosure to ensure that it is kept at the right temperature, which is crucial to iguana health. Under the basking light should be low to mid 90s (Fahrenheit) and the rest of the enclosure should be no lower than 80 degrees.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place a water source inside the cage.\", \"描述\": \"In the wild, iguanas are excellent swimmers, and actually stay hydrated in part by soaking in water. \\nYou can use a large bowl or other container filled with water. Iguanas need a water source that is not only for drinking but also big enough to climb inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install a ramp, shelving, perches, or branches, or add small trees inside the cage.\", \"描述\": \"You can attach these using secure zip ties or additional glue.\\nIguanas like to climb and bask in heat. They need exercise and the ability to get closer to the heat lamps to digest their food.\\nBe creative, but ensure that it is accessible to the iguana. Branches and layers in the enclosure should ensure that the iguana can move to a variety of temperature zones by getting closer or farther from the heat source. For safety, the branches should be as wide as the width of your iguana.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put the finishing touches on your enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Before putting the iguana in its new habitat, ensure everything is put together properly for its arrival.\\nPlace newspaper at the bottom of the cage for easy cleanup.\\nEnsure that there is fresh water in the bowl and plenty of food. Iguanas are strict herbivores and enjoy a varied diet of consisting of mostly vegetables (primarily leafy green vegetables), some fruit, and an occasional treat of cooked rice, pasta, or whole wheat bread. Use a shallow bowl for food (plastic, ceramic, or glass will work fine) and change it daily.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Although you may be tempted to start your baby iguana in a large enclosure, it is generally best to keep a baby iguana in a 20 gallon aquarium until it is about 18 inches long. The smaller size helps them to feel secure in their new home and helps ensure they will find their food and water source.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If you cannot accommodate an adult iguana habitat, do not adopt one.\\n\", \"If you are considering adopting an iguana, check your local area for reptile rescue programs. Many people buy baby iguanas but realize they cannot accommodate them as adults, and abandon them.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not place just any plant in the cage. Some plants are toxic to iguanas. Perform research on safe flora for placing in the cage.\\n\", \"Do not use a heat rock. Iguanas do not feel the heat from the bottom and will cook themselves and not know it. They gauge heat from the top.\\n\", \"If you're building the cage outdoors and bringing it inside, make sure the cage can fit through the door.\\n\", \"Do not overheat the iguana cage. Consult a herpetology specialist about the temperature and size of heat lamps.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,661 |
How to Build an Indoor Pond
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1. Choosing a Location
1-1. Find space on the lower floors of your home for the pond.
Keep in mind that indoor ponds are very heavy. The floor underneath your pond has to bear the weight of all the water the pond holds. Ponds belong on the lower levels of homes, such as in the basement, to prevent flooring from collapsing underneath it.
Leaking ponds are also an issue. The water can seep into the floor, rotting wooden support beams. The best place for a pond is on top of stable ground, such as over a concrete foundation.
1-2. Find a spot that is safe from any small children or pets in your home.
If you can, place the pond behind a lockable door to prevent anyone from accessing the pond when you're not around. If this isn't an option, building barriers around your pond helps. Surround the pond's space with plywood barriers, for instance, that restrict access to the pond.
Plan your pond's depth carefully. For instance, making the pond wide and shallow helps prevent accidents, but small children and pets will be able to climb in the pond or drink from it.
Building a deeper pond with taller sides is good for preventing children or pets from climbing into the pond, but the pond will be less accessible.
1-3. Place the pond in partial sunlight if it will contain plants or fish.
Ponds need a balance of shade and sunlight in order to become a healthy habitat for living things. Put your pond near a window, if possible, so it gets about 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day. Avoid areas that receive more direct sunlight than this, since the light may warm the water too much and facilitate algae growth.
Choosing a stable spot is more important than finding an area of sunlight. If your pond doesn't get enough light, purchase some LED or fluorescent pond lights to simulate sunlight.
1-4. Find an area close to an electrical outlet to power lights and pumps.
Most ponds depend heavily on electrical components to create a healthy environment for plants and animals. To raise koi, for instance, you may need pond lights, an aquarium heater, and a pump and filter system. Build the pond near an outlet for easy access to your home's electricity even if you're unsure you will need it.
Build the pond so the electrical outlet is a short distance away, easy to access without lots of extension cords.
1-5. Make the pond near a fan to disperse heat and moisture.
The water from the pond affects the atmosphere of your home in more ways than one. A good ceiling fan is a way to compensate for these changes. Having a window nearby to open also helps. Releasing the extra heat and moisture reduces the chances of rotting wood supports in addition to making your home feel more comfortable.
If you don't have a fan nearby, install a dehumidifier to eliminate the extra moisture the pond releases into the air.
1-6. Measure out the space you have available for the pond.
Once you have found a good spot for your pond, break out your tape measure. Determine how long, wide, and deep your pond will be. An average home floor is capable of holding about 40 lb (18 kg) per 1 sq ft (0.093 m), or a pond about 18 in (46 cm) deep.
To determine how many gallons of water your pond will hold, measure its length, width, and height in feet. Multiply all the measurements together, then multiply that by 7.5.
Make the pond big enough to hold whatever plants and fish you wish to keep. Mature koi, for example, require about 50 gallons (190 L) of water each.
Square or rectangular ponds are the simplest to construct. Ponds can also be made kidney bean-shaped, which looks more natural.
2. Creating the Pond's Exterior
2-1. Cut the wood needed to construct the pond walls.
Build an inexpensive pond out of plywood and construction grade lumber like pine. Cut the wood yourself with table saw while wearing safety goggles, ear protection, and a dust mask. Alternatively, many home improvement stores will cut wood to your specifications. To make a 500 US gal (1,900 L) pool about 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m):
Cut 12 construction grade boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long, 8 in (20 cm) wide, and 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.
Get 4 deck boards that are the same size as the construction grade boards.
Make 4 plywood boards 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 4 ft (1.2 m) wide, and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick.
If you don't wish to make a wood pond, concrete blocks are another option for a stable pond.
2-2. Predrill into the ends of boards forming the pond's perimeter.
Measure 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the boards. Make a column of holes, leaving 2 in (5.1 cm) between them.
For the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a ⁄64 in (0.12 cm) drill bit to create the holes. Drill the holes into 4 of the boards
Pre-drilling the holes prevents the boards from cracking when you screw them together.
If you're making a concrete pond, gather a bunch of same-sized blocks and lay out the first layer in the desired shape and size.
2-3. Screw the boards together to form the pond's exterior.
Choose 2 each of the drilled and undrilled construction boards. Rest the longer side of each board on the ground, arranging the boards to form a square “ring.” Make sure the boards are flush with the pre-drilled holes on the outside edge of the ring. Repeat this with the remaining boards to create 3 separate rings.
For the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, you will need 3 in (7.6 cm) screws and an electric screwdriver.
For a concrete pond, join 2 layers of blocks together with mortar. Spread a layer of mortar on top of the first row of blocks, add the second row of blocks, and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Repeat the process until the blocks reach the desired height.
2-4. Stack the boards to create the pond's walls.
After connecting the boards together, you will have 3 square rings. Place them on top of one another. Make sure they are all flush. You don't need to connect the rings together yet.
Try pushing on the boards. If they wobble, they aren't attached well, leaving your pond wall vulnerable. Tighten the screws in place until the boards are secure and the rings feel stable.
To make a concrete pond, spread another layer of mortar on top of the second row of blocks. Fit another layer of blocks in place, then let the mortar dry.
2-5. Install a plywood lining to the inside part of the pond.
Move the plywood inside the rings, resting them firmly against the boards. Cut the plywood to size as needed so it fits flush with the top edges of the pond walls. Attach the plywood with screws to create a protective lining that holds the other boards together.
For the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a series of 1 in (2.5 cm) screws. Space the screws out 12 in (30 cm) along the plywood's length and about every 16 in (41 cm) down its width.
When you're done, the boards will be attached to the walls by 3 rows of screws.
You do not need plywood for a concrete pond. If you wish to strengthen the pond, slide reinforcing rods down through each set of blocks.
3. Constructing the Pond's Interior
3-1. Pad the pond interior with soft material such as carpet.
Take advantage of recycled carpeting for an inexpensive way to insulate the pond. Cut the carpeting to size with a sharp utility knife. Fit it over the floor and against the inside walls of the pond. Spread some carpet glue adhesive with a trowel and press the carpet tightly against the wood.
Make sure the carpet rests flat against the walls. Don't leave any gaps exposing the wood.
Avoid stapling the carpet if possible. The staples will rub up against the pond liner, possibly breaking it.
If you don't have carpeting, get a different insulating material. Insulating Styrofoam is also easy to glue to the wood. Some people even create thick layers of insulation out of old newspapers.
3-2. Measure and cut the pool liner to fit inside the pond.
Get a 45 mil EPDM rubber liner and spread it out over your floor. The liner needs to be big enough to hang over the pond's walls by about 3 in (7.6 cm). For the wooden pond, choose a liner that's at least 19 ft (5.8 m) long per side so it fits snugly inside the pond.
Pond liners are available at many home improvement stores. If the store doesn't have a liner big enough for your pond, consider wrapping the wood in a bunch of smaller liners, such as 10 ft × 10 ft (3.0 m × 3.0 m) ones.
Always cut the liner a little longer than your measurements so the ends fold over the top of the pond.
The 45 mil rating indicates the liner's thickness, which is needed to hold up under the weight of the water. Make sure you don't pick up a thin liner by accident.
3-3. Place the liner in the pool and fold its ends over the walls.
Drop the liner into the center of the pond, bringing the edges over the walls. Flatten the liner as much as possible so it rests up against the pond's floor and walls. Try to get it to fit as tightly against the corners as possible.
Any wrinkles in the liner may turn into air bubbles later. The liner may break in these spots. Pull the liner to eliminate any wrinkles and air pockets before finishing the installation.
Take the time to test the liner for holes by pouring about 1 in (2.5 cm) of water into it. If you see any leaks, patch them up with a square of liner and duct tape or replace the entire liner.
3-4. Tack the liner in place with 3 in (7.6 cm) roofing nails.
Place the nails about every 12 in (30 cm) along the tops of the walls. Hammer them down carefully to secure the liner in place. As long as the liner is tight against the wood, it won't stretch and leak later.
The liner can also be weighed down with rocks (or another layer of concrete blocks if you aren't using wood) or lightly pinned in place. That way, you reduce the risk of big punctures that need to be fixed.
3-5. Screw the deck boards in place on top of the pond's walls.
Press the deck boards tightly against the pond liner. Position 3 in (7.6 cm) screws every 2 ft (0.61 m) along the outer edge of each board. Then, use an electric screwdriver to fasten the boards in place. The pond liner will be sandwiched between the deck boards and the top of the pond walls, holding it in place.
Keep the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the edges of the boards so they stay strong.
The deck boards hide the liner. Piling rocks or concrete blocks around the pool's walls is another way to mask the liner and may be a better option depending on the pond you build.
4. Filling the Pond
4-1. Install a submersible pump and filter system in the center of the pond.
The submersible pump prevents the water from becoming stagnant. It forces water to circulate in the pond while the filter component removes harmful debris. Set the pump down, running its line to the nearest outlet. Plug it in and wait until you add water to the tank to run it.
Calculate the pond's water volume by multiplying its length, width, and height together. Multiply that by 7.5 to get the number of gallons of water your pond holds.
Pumps are rated by how much water they circulate in an hour. Choose a pump rated for at least half your pond size, such as by getting a 500 US gal (1,900 L) per hour pump for a 1,000 US gal (3,800 L) pond.
Also, make sure the filter system dechlorinates water. If it doesn't, install a separate dechlorinator in order to keep the water safe for pond plants and fish.
4-2. Set up a fluorescent light if your pond will house plants or fish.
Many ponds end up in basements and other spots that don't get a lot of light. Adding a light source helps keep the pond healthy. Install a light bulb or hang a light fixture over the pond so any living creatures in it receive plenty of light.
Research what your pond dwellers need. Most fish and plants do well with full spectrum fluorescent lights. Some species may have special lighting needs.
4-3. Use an aquarium heater to warm the water if it gets too cold.
Find a heater rated for the size of your pond. Then, drop the heater into an isolated corner of the pond near a wall outlet. After plugging in the heater, continue testing the water to see how effective the heater is.
Whether or not you need a heater depends on the temperature of your environment. Having a heater is crucial for many basement ponds.
Koi, for instance, require a water temperature between 52 and 60 °F (11 and 16 °C).
4-4. Cover the pond's bottom with a layer of sand or gravel.
These substrates hide the liner, protect it from damage, and make your pond more aesthetically pleasing. Get enough bags or mortar sand or gravel to form a layer between 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick. Pour it directly into the pond on top of the liner.
Sand cushions the liner from damage, but it also tends to make the water look a little cloudy.
Gravel can be sharp and heavy, so pour it into the pond with caution. Once it's in the pond, it forms a smooth bottom that doesn't affect the water.
4-5. Build up the sides of your pond by stacking river stones.
Purchase some larger river rocks and stones from your local home improvement store. Stack them against the sides of the pond. Push the bottom stones into the sand or gravel a little bit to fit them in place. These stones conceal the rest of the liner.
Sandbags are another useful way to hide the liner. Lay the sandbags horizontally around the pond's edge, stacking them to create ridges. Then, cover all of them with stones. The sandbags reduce the amount of stones you need while creating a buffer between the stones and the liner.
If you don't cap your pond's walls with deck boards, get some copestones to fit on top of the walls.
4-6. Fill the pond by running a hose from the faucet.
Set the end of the hose in the pond and release the water. Let the water flow until it's about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top of the walls. Make sure the water isn't leaking out from the pond before you finish filling it.
Put a little bit of water in at first to check for leaks. Notice any spots where the water appears to drain and patch the liner as needed before filling the pond.
4-7. Introduce any fish and plants you wish to add to the pond.
Gather up some pond plants and fish like koi. To install a plant, reach into the water and push the plant's base into the sand or gravel. Scatter plants around to give your pond a consistent aesthetic. Then, drop any pond fish in and watch them enjoy their new home!
Research plants and fish before adding them. Each species has different needs. Some plants like shallow water, for instance, while others do better in deeper, darker parts of the pond.
Marginal pond plants are a great option.
Tips
Customize your pond by creating levels with different heights. For instance, stack stones to create ridges, then place your plants in tiers. Some plants will be partially above the water's surface.
Feed your fish a little at a time. That way, they leave behind less rotting food to filter out, thus keeping the tank cleaner.
If your pond liner has a leak, cut a patch out of plastic and tape it tightly over the hole.
Warnings
Unsupervised ponds can be dangerous for animals and children. Keep them away from the pond when you're not there to prevent accidents.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:21",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Location\\n1-1. Find space on the lower floors of your home for the pond.\\nKeep in mind that indoor ponds are very heavy. The floor underneath your pond has to bear the weight of all the water the pond holds. Ponds belong on the lower levels of homes, such as in the basement, to prevent flooring from collapsing underneath it.\\nLeaking ponds are also an issue. The water can seep into the floor, rotting wooden support beams. The best place for a pond is on top of stable ground, such as over a concrete foundation.\\n1-2. Find a spot that is safe from any small children or pets in your home.\\nIf you can, place the pond behind a lockable door to prevent anyone from accessing the pond when you're not around. If this isn't an option, building barriers around your pond helps. Surround the pond's space with plywood barriers, for instance, that restrict access to the pond.\\nPlan your pond's depth carefully. For instance, making the pond wide and shallow helps prevent accidents, but small children and pets will be able to climb in the pond or drink from it.\\nBuilding a deeper pond with taller sides is good for preventing children or pets from climbing into the pond, but the pond will be less accessible.\\n1-3. Place the pond in partial sunlight if it will contain plants or fish.\\nPonds need a balance of shade and sunlight in order to become a healthy habitat for living things. Put your pond near a window, if possible, so it gets about 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day. Avoid areas that receive more direct sunlight than this, since the light may warm the water too much and facilitate algae growth.\\nChoosing a stable spot is more important than finding an area of sunlight. If your pond doesn't get enough light, purchase some LED or fluorescent pond lights to simulate sunlight.\\n1-4. Find an area close to an electrical outlet to power lights and pumps.\\nMost ponds depend heavily on electrical components to create a healthy environment for plants and animals. To raise koi, for instance, you may need pond lights, an aquarium heater, and a pump and filter system. Build the pond near an outlet for easy access to your home's electricity even if you're unsure you will need it.\\nBuild the pond so the electrical outlet is a short distance away, easy to access without lots of extension cords.\\n1-5. Make the pond near a fan to disperse heat and moisture.\\nThe water from the pond affects the atmosphere of your home in more ways than one. A good ceiling fan is a way to compensate for these changes. Having a window nearby to open also helps. Releasing the extra heat and moisture reduces the chances of rotting wood supports in addition to making your home feel more comfortable.\\nIf you don't have a fan nearby, install a dehumidifier to eliminate the extra moisture the pond releases into the air.\\n1-6. Measure out the space you have available for the pond.\\nOnce you have found a good spot for your pond, break out your tape measure. Determine how long, wide, and deep your pond will be. An average home floor is capable of holding about 40 lb (18 kg) per 1 sq ft (0.093 m), or a pond about 18 in (46 cm) deep.\\nTo determine how many gallons of water your pond will hold, measure its length, width, and height in feet. Multiply all the measurements together, then multiply that by 7.5.\\nMake the pond big enough to hold whatever plants and fish you wish to keep. Mature koi, for example, require about 50 gallons (190 L) of water each.\\nSquare or rectangular ponds are the simplest to construct. Ponds can also be made kidney bean-shaped, which looks more natural.\\n2. Creating the Pond's Exterior\\n2-1. Cut the wood needed to construct the pond walls.\\nBuild an inexpensive pond out of plywood and construction grade lumber like pine. Cut the wood yourself with table saw while wearing safety goggles, ear protection, and a dust mask. Alternatively, many home improvement stores will cut wood to your specifications. To make a 500 US gal (1,900 L) pool about 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m):\\nCut 12 construction grade boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long, 8 in (20 cm) wide, and 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.\\nGet 4 deck boards that are the same size as the construction grade boards.\\nMake 4 plywood boards 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 4 ft (1.2 m) wide, and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick.\\nIf you don't wish to make a wood pond, concrete blocks are another option for a stable pond.\\n2-2. Predrill into the ends of boards forming the pond's perimeter.\\nMeasure 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the boards. Make a column of holes, leaving 2 in (5.1 cm) between them.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a ⁄64 in (0.12 cm) drill bit to create the holes. Drill the holes into 4 of the boards\\nPre-drilling the holes prevents the boards from cracking when you screw them together.\\nIf you're making a concrete pond, gather a bunch of same-sized blocks and lay out the first layer in the desired shape and size.\\n2-3. Screw the boards together to form the pond's exterior.\\nChoose 2 each of the drilled and undrilled construction boards. Rest the longer side of each board on the ground, arranging the boards to form a square “ring.” Make sure the boards are flush with the pre-drilled holes on the outside edge of the ring. Repeat this with the remaining boards to create 3 separate rings.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, you will need 3 in (7.6 cm) screws and an electric screwdriver.\\nFor a concrete pond, join 2 layers of blocks together with mortar. Spread a layer of mortar on top of the first row of blocks, add the second row of blocks, and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Repeat the process until the blocks reach the desired height.\\n2-4. Stack the boards to create the pond's walls.\\nAfter connecting the boards together, you will have 3 square rings. Place them on top of one another. Make sure they are all flush. You don't need to connect the rings together yet.\\nTry pushing on the boards. If they wobble, they aren't attached well, leaving your pond wall vulnerable. Tighten the screws in place until the boards are secure and the rings feel stable.\\nTo make a concrete pond, spread another layer of mortar on top of the second row of blocks. Fit another layer of blocks in place, then let the mortar dry.\\n2-5. Install a plywood lining to the inside part of the pond.\\nMove the plywood inside the rings, resting them firmly against the boards. Cut the plywood to size as needed so it fits flush with the top edges of the pond walls. Attach the plywood with screws to create a protective lining that holds the other boards together.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a series of 1 in (2.5 cm) screws. Space the screws out 12 in (30 cm) along the plywood's length and about every 16 in (41 cm) down its width.\\nWhen you're done, the boards will be attached to the walls by 3 rows of screws.\\nYou do not need plywood for a concrete pond. If you wish to strengthen the pond, slide reinforcing rods down through each set of blocks.\\n3. Constructing the Pond's Interior\\n3-1. Pad the pond interior with soft material such as carpet.\\nTake advantage of recycled carpeting for an inexpensive way to insulate the pond. Cut the carpeting to size with a sharp utility knife. Fit it over the floor and against the inside walls of the pond. Spread some carpet glue adhesive with a trowel and press the carpet tightly against the wood.\\nMake sure the carpet rests flat against the walls. Don't leave any gaps exposing the wood.\\nAvoid stapling the carpet if possible. The staples will rub up against the pond liner, possibly breaking it.\\nIf you don't have carpeting, get a different insulating material. Insulating Styrofoam is also easy to glue to the wood. Some people even create thick layers of insulation out of old newspapers.\\n3-2. Measure and cut the pool liner to fit inside the pond.\\nGet a 45 mil EPDM rubber liner and spread it out over your floor. The liner needs to be big enough to hang over the pond's walls by about 3 in (7.6 cm). For the wooden pond, choose a liner that's at least 19 ft (5.8 m) long per side so it fits snugly inside the pond.\\nPond liners are available at many home improvement stores. If the store doesn't have a liner big enough for your pond, consider wrapping the wood in a bunch of smaller liners, such as 10 ft × 10 ft (3.0 m × 3.0 m) ones.\\nAlways cut the liner a little longer than your measurements so the ends fold over the top of the pond.\\nThe 45 mil rating indicates the liner's thickness, which is needed to hold up under the weight of the water. Make sure you don't pick up a thin liner by accident.\\n3-3. Place the liner in the pool and fold its ends over the walls.\\nDrop the liner into the center of the pond, bringing the edges over the walls. Flatten the liner as much as possible so it rests up against the pond's floor and walls. Try to get it to fit as tightly against the corners as possible.\\nAny wrinkles in the liner may turn into air bubbles later. The liner may break in these spots. Pull the liner to eliminate any wrinkles and air pockets before finishing the installation.\\nTake the time to test the liner for holes by pouring about 1 in (2.5 cm) of water into it. If you see any leaks, patch them up with a square of liner and duct tape or replace the entire liner.\\n3-4. Tack the liner in place with 3 in (7.6 cm) roofing nails.\\nPlace the nails about every 12 in (30 cm) along the tops of the walls. Hammer them down carefully to secure the liner in place. As long as the liner is tight against the wood, it won't stretch and leak later.\\nThe liner can also be weighed down with rocks (or another layer of concrete blocks if you aren't using wood) or lightly pinned in place. That way, you reduce the risk of big punctures that need to be fixed.\\n3-5. Screw the deck boards in place on top of the pond's walls.\\nPress the deck boards tightly against the pond liner. Position 3 in (7.6 cm) screws every 2 ft (0.61 m) along the outer edge of each board. Then, use an electric screwdriver to fasten the boards in place. The pond liner will be sandwiched between the deck boards and the top of the pond walls, holding it in place.\\nKeep the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the edges of the boards so they stay strong.\\nThe deck boards hide the liner. Piling rocks or concrete blocks around the pool's walls is another way to mask the liner and may be a better option depending on the pond you build.\\n4. Filling the Pond\\n4-1. Install a submersible pump and filter system in the center of the pond.\\nThe submersible pump prevents the water from becoming stagnant. It forces water to circulate in the pond while the filter component removes harmful debris. Set the pump down, running its line to the nearest outlet. Plug it in and wait until you add water to the tank to run it.\\nCalculate the pond's water volume by multiplying its length, width, and height together. Multiply that by 7.5 to get the number of gallons of water your pond holds.\\nPumps are rated by how much water they circulate in an hour. Choose a pump rated for at least half your pond size, such as by getting a 500 US gal (1,900 L) per hour pump for a 1,000 US gal (3,800 L) pond.\\nAlso, make sure the filter system dechlorinates water. If it doesn't, install a separate dechlorinator in order to keep the water safe for pond plants and fish.\\n4-2. Set up a fluorescent light if your pond will house plants or fish.\\nMany ponds end up in basements and other spots that don't get a lot of light. Adding a light source helps keep the pond healthy. Install a light bulb or hang a light fixture over the pond so any living creatures in it receive plenty of light.\\nResearch what your pond dwellers need. Most fish and plants do well with full spectrum fluorescent lights. Some species may have special lighting needs.\\n4-3. Use an aquarium heater to warm the water if it gets too cold.\\nFind a heater rated for the size of your pond. Then, drop the heater into an isolated corner of the pond near a wall outlet. After plugging in the heater, continue testing the water to see how effective the heater is.\\nWhether or not you need a heater depends on the temperature of your environment. Having a heater is crucial for many basement ponds.\\nKoi, for instance, require a water temperature between 52 and 60 °F (11 and 16 °C).\\n4-4. Cover the pond's bottom with a layer of sand or gravel.\\nThese substrates hide the liner, protect it from damage, and make your pond more aesthetically pleasing. Get enough bags or mortar sand or gravel to form a layer between 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick. Pour it directly into the pond on top of the liner.\\nSand cushions the liner from damage, but it also tends to make the water look a little cloudy.\\nGravel can be sharp and heavy, so pour it into the pond with caution. Once it's in the pond, it forms a smooth bottom that doesn't affect the water.\\n4-5. Build up the sides of your pond by stacking river stones.\\nPurchase some larger river rocks and stones from your local home improvement store. Stack them against the sides of the pond. Push the bottom stones into the sand or gravel a little bit to fit them in place. These stones conceal the rest of the liner.\\nSandbags are another useful way to hide the liner. Lay the sandbags horizontally around the pond's edge, stacking them to create ridges. Then, cover all of them with stones. The sandbags reduce the amount of stones you need while creating a buffer between the stones and the liner.\\nIf you don't cap your pond's walls with deck boards, get some copestones to fit on top of the walls.\\n4-6. Fill the pond by running a hose from the faucet.\\nSet the end of the hose in the pond and release the water. Let the water flow until it's about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top of the walls. Make sure the water isn't leaking out from the pond before you finish filling it.\\nPut a little bit of water in at first to check for leaks. Notice any spots where the water appears to drain and patch the liner as needed before filling the pond.\\n4-7. Introduce any fish and plants you wish to add to the pond.\\nGather up some pond plants and fish like koi. To install a plant, reach into the water and push the plant's base into the sand or gravel. Scatter plants around to give your pond a consistent aesthetic. Then, drop any pond fish in and watch them enjoy their new home!\\nResearch plants and fish before adding them. Each species has different needs. Some plants like shallow water, for instance, while others do better in deeper, darker parts of the pond.\\nMarginal pond plants are a great option.\\nTips\\nCustomize your pond by creating levels with different heights. For instance, stack stones to create ridges, then place your plants in tiers. Some plants will be partially above the water's surface.\\nFeed your fish a little at a time. That way, they leave behind less rotting food to filter out, thus keeping the tank cleaner.\\nIf your pond liner has a leak, cut a patch out of plastic and tape it tightly over the hole.\\nWarnings\\nUnsupervised ponds can be dangerous for animals and children. Keep them away from the pond when you're not there to prevent accidents.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There is no better way to create a mini oasis in your home than by building your own pond. Building a stable pond requires you to think carefully about the pond's placement and the material you will use to create it. Construct the pond out of material like wood boards and a rubber pond liner, then equip it with items like a pond filter to create a sustainable environment for plants and fish.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find space on the lower floors of your home for the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that indoor ponds are very heavy. The floor underneath your pond has to bear the weight of all the water the pond holds. Ponds belong on the lower levels of homes, such as in the basement, to prevent flooring from collapsing underneath it.\\nLeaking ponds are also an issue. The water can seep into the floor, rotting wooden support beams. The best place for a pond is on top of stable ground, such as over a concrete foundation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a spot that is safe from any small children or pets in your home.\", \"描述\": \"If you can, place the pond behind a lockable door to prevent anyone from accessing the pond when you're not around. If this isn't an option, building barriers around your pond helps. Surround the pond's space with plywood barriers, for instance, that restrict access to the pond.\\nPlan your pond's depth carefully. For instance, making the pond wide and shallow helps prevent accidents, but small children and pets will be able to climb in the pond or drink from it.\\nBuilding a deeper pond with taller sides is good for preventing children or pets from climbing into the pond, but the pond will be less accessible.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the pond in partial sunlight if it will contain plants or fish.\", \"描述\": \"Ponds need a balance of shade and sunlight in order to become a healthy habitat for living things. Put your pond near a window, if possible, so it gets about 4 to 6 hours of sunlight per day. Avoid areas that receive more direct sunlight than this, since the light may warm the water too much and facilitate algae growth.\\nChoosing a stable spot is more important than finding an area of sunlight. If your pond doesn't get enough light, purchase some LED or fluorescent pond lights to simulate sunlight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find an area close to an electrical outlet to power lights and pumps.\", \"描述\": \"Most ponds depend heavily on electrical components to create a healthy environment for plants and animals. To raise koi, for instance, you may need pond lights, an aquarium heater, and a pump and filter system. Build the pond near an outlet for easy access to your home's electricity even if you're unsure you will need it.\\nBuild the pond so the electrical outlet is a short distance away, easy to access without lots of extension cords.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the pond near a fan to disperse heat and moisture.\", \"描述\": \"The water from the pond affects the atmosphere of your home in more ways than one. A good ceiling fan is a way to compensate for these changes. Having a window nearby to open also helps. Releasing the extra heat and moisture reduces the chances of rotting wood supports in addition to making your home feel more comfortable.\\nIf you don't have a fan nearby, install a dehumidifier to eliminate the extra moisture the pond releases into the air.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure out the space you have available for the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have found a good spot for your pond, break out your tape measure. Determine how long, wide, and deep your pond will be. An average home floor is capable of holding about 40 lb (18 kg) per 1 sq ft (0.093 m), or a pond about 18 in (46 cm) deep.\\nTo determine how many gallons of water your pond will hold, measure its length, width, and height in feet. Multiply all the measurements together, then multiply that by 7.5.\\nMake the pond big enough to hold whatever plants and fish you wish to keep. Mature koi, for example, require about 50 gallons (190 L) of water each.\\nSquare or rectangular ponds are the simplest to construct. Ponds can also be made kidney bean-shaped, which looks more natural.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Pond's Exterior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood needed to construct the pond walls.\", \"描述\": \"Build an inexpensive pond out of plywood and construction grade lumber like pine. Cut the wood yourself with table saw while wearing safety goggles, ear protection, and a dust mask. Alternatively, many home improvement stores will cut wood to your specifications. To make a 500 US gal (1,900 L) pool about 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m):\\nCut 12 construction grade boards to be 6 ft (1.8 m) long, 8 in (20 cm) wide, and 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.\\nGet 4 deck boards that are the same size as the construction grade boards.\\nMake 4 plywood boards 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 4 ft (1.2 m) wide, and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick.\\nIf you don't wish to make a wood pond, concrete blocks are another option for a stable pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Predrill into the ends of boards forming the pond's perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the boards. Make a column of holes, leaving 2 in (5.1 cm) between them.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a ⁄64 in (0.12 cm) drill bit to create the holes. Drill the holes into 4 of the boards\\nPre-drilling the holes prevents the boards from cracking when you screw them together.\\nIf you're making a concrete pond, gather a bunch of same-sized blocks and lay out the first layer in the desired shape and size.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the boards together to form the pond's exterior.\", \"描述\": \"Choose 2 each of the drilled and undrilled construction boards. Rest the longer side of each board on the ground, arranging the boards to form a square “ring.” Make sure the boards are flush with the pre-drilled holes on the outside edge of the ring. Repeat this with the remaining boards to create 3 separate rings.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, you will need 3 in (7.6 cm) screws and an electric screwdriver.\\nFor a concrete pond, join 2 layers of blocks together with mortar. Spread a layer of mortar on top of the first row of blocks, add the second row of blocks, and let it dry for at least 24 hours. Repeat the process until the blocks reach the desired height.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stack the boards to create the pond's walls.\", \"描述\": \"After connecting the boards together, you will have 3 square rings. Place them on top of one another. Make sure they are all flush. You don't need to connect the rings together yet.\\nTry pushing on the boards. If they wobble, they aren't attached well, leaving your pond wall vulnerable. Tighten the screws in place until the boards are secure and the rings feel stable.\\nTo make a concrete pond, spread another layer of mortar on top of the second row of blocks. Fit another layer of blocks in place, then let the mortar dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install a plywood lining to the inside part of the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Move the plywood inside the rings, resting them firmly against the boards. Cut the plywood to size as needed so it fits flush with the top edges of the pond walls. Attach the plywood with screws to create a protective lining that holds the other boards together.\\nFor the 6 × 6 × 2 ft (1.83 × 1.83 × 0.61 m) pond, use a series of 1 in (2.5 cm) screws. Space the screws out 12 in (30 cm) along the plywood's length and about every 16 in (41 cm) down its width.\\nWhen you're done, the boards will be attached to the walls by 3 rows of screws.\\nYou do not need plywood for a concrete pond. If you wish to strengthen the pond, slide reinforcing rods down through each set of blocks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Pond's Interior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pad the pond interior with soft material such as carpet.\", \"描述\": \"Take advantage of recycled carpeting for an inexpensive way to insulate the pond. Cut the carpeting to size with a sharp utility knife. Fit it over the floor and against the inside walls of the pond. Spread some carpet glue adhesive with a trowel and press the carpet tightly against the wood.\\nMake sure the carpet rests flat against the walls. Don't leave any gaps exposing the wood.\\nAvoid stapling the carpet if possible. The staples will rub up against the pond liner, possibly breaking it.\\nIf you don't have carpeting, get a different insulating material. Insulating Styrofoam is also easy to glue to the wood. Some people even create thick layers of insulation out of old newspapers.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut the pool liner to fit inside the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Get a 45 mil EPDM rubber liner and spread it out over your floor. The liner needs to be big enough to hang over the pond's walls by about 3 in (7.6 cm). For the wooden pond, choose a liner that's at least 19 ft (5.8 m) long per side so it fits snugly inside the pond.\\nPond liners are available at many home improvement stores. If the store doesn't have a liner big enough for your pond, consider wrapping the wood in a bunch of smaller liners, such as 10 ft × 10 ft (3.0 m × 3.0 m) ones.\\nAlways cut the liner a little longer than your measurements so the ends fold over the top of the pond.\\nThe 45 mil rating indicates the liner's thickness, which is needed to hold up under the weight of the water. Make sure you don't pick up a thin liner by accident.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the liner in the pool and fold its ends over the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Drop the liner into the center of the pond, bringing the edges over the walls. Flatten the liner as much as possible so it rests up against the pond's floor and walls. Try to get it to fit as tightly against the corners as possible.\\nAny wrinkles in the liner may turn into air bubbles later. The liner may break in these spots. Pull the liner to eliminate any wrinkles and air pockets before finishing the installation.\\nTake the time to test the liner for holes by pouring about 1 in (2.5 cm) of water into it. If you see any leaks, patch them up with a square of liner and duct tape or replace the entire liner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tack the liner in place with 3 in (7.6 cm) roofing nails.\", \"描述\": \"Place the nails about every 12 in (30 cm) along the tops of the walls. Hammer them down carefully to secure the liner in place. As long as the liner is tight against the wood, it won't stretch and leak later.\\nThe liner can also be weighed down with rocks (or another layer of concrete blocks if you aren't using wood) or lightly pinned in place. That way, you reduce the risk of big punctures that need to be fixed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the deck boards in place on top of the pond's walls.\", \"描述\": \"Press the deck boards tightly against the pond liner. Position 3 in (7.6 cm) screws every 2 ft (0.61 m) along the outer edge of each board. Then, use an electric screwdriver to fasten the boards in place. The pond liner will be sandwiched between the deck boards and the top of the pond walls, holding it in place.\\nKeep the screws about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the edges of the boards so they stay strong.\\nThe deck boards hide the liner. Piling rocks or concrete blocks around the pool's walls is another way to mask the liner and may be a better option depending on the pond you build.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Filling the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install a submersible pump and filter system in the center of the pond.\", \"描述\": \"The submersible pump prevents the water from becoming stagnant. It forces water to circulate in the pond while the filter component removes harmful debris. Set the pump down, running its line to the nearest outlet. Plug it in and wait until you add water to the tank to run it.\\nCalculate the pond's water volume by multiplying its length, width, and height together. Multiply that by 7.5 to get the number of gallons of water your pond holds.\\nPumps are rated by how much water they circulate in an hour. Choose a pump rated for at least half your pond size, such as by getting a 500 US gal (1,900 L) per hour pump for a 1,000 US gal (3,800 L) pond.\\nAlso, make sure the filter system dechlorinates water. If it doesn't, install a separate dechlorinator in order to keep the water safe for pond plants and fish.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up a fluorescent light if your pond will house plants or fish.\", \"描述\": \"Many ponds end up in basements and other spots that don't get a lot of light. Adding a light source helps keep the pond healthy. Install a light bulb or hang a light fixture over the pond so any living creatures in it receive plenty of light.\\nResearch what your pond dwellers need. Most fish and plants do well with full spectrum fluorescent lights. Some species may have special lighting needs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use an aquarium heater to warm the water if it gets too cold.\", \"描述\": \"Find a heater rated for the size of your pond. Then, drop the heater into an isolated corner of the pond near a wall outlet. After plugging in the heater, continue testing the water to see how effective the heater is.\\nWhether or not you need a heater depends on the temperature of your environment. Having a heater is crucial for many basement ponds.\\nKoi, for instance, require a water temperature between 52 and 60 °F (11 and 16 °C).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the pond's bottom with a layer of sand or gravel.\", \"描述\": \"These substrates hide the liner, protect it from damage, and make your pond more aesthetically pleasing. Get enough bags or mortar sand or gravel to form a layer between 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) thick. Pour it directly into the pond on top of the liner.\\nSand cushions the liner from damage, but it also tends to make the water look a little cloudy.\\nGravel can be sharp and heavy, so pour it into the pond with caution. Once it's in the pond, it forms a smooth bottom that doesn't affect the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build up the sides of your pond by stacking river stones.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase some larger river rocks and stones from your local home improvement store. Stack them against the sides of the pond. Push the bottom stones into the sand or gravel a little bit to fit them in place. These stones conceal the rest of the liner.\\nSandbags are another useful way to hide the liner. Lay the sandbags horizontally around the pond's edge, stacking them to create ridges. Then, cover all of them with stones. The sandbags reduce the amount of stones you need while creating a buffer between the stones and the liner.\\nIf you don't cap your pond's walls with deck boards, get some copestones to fit on top of the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill the pond by running a hose from the faucet.\", \"描述\": \"Set the end of the hose in the pond and release the water. Let the water flow until it's about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the top of the walls. Make sure the water isn't leaking out from the pond before you finish filling it.\\nPut a little bit of water in at first to check for leaks. Notice any spots where the water appears to drain and patch the liner as needed before filling the pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Introduce any fish and plants you wish to add to the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Gather up some pond plants and fish like koi. To install a plant, reach into the water and push the plant's base into the sand or gravel. Scatter plants around to give your pond a consistent aesthetic. Then, drop any pond fish in and watch them enjoy their new home!\\nResearch plants and fish before adding them. Each species has different needs. Some plants like shallow water, for instance, while others do better in deeper, darker parts of the pond.\\nMarginal pond plants are a great option.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Customize your pond by creating levels with different heights. For instance, stack stones to create ridges, then place your plants in tiers. Some plants will be partially above the water's surface.\\n\", \"Feed your fish a little at a time. That way, they leave behind less rotting food to filter out, thus keeping the tank cleaner.\\n\", \"If your pond liner has a leak, cut a patch out of plastic and tape it tightly over the hole.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Unsupervised ponds can be dangerous for animals and children. Keep them away from the pond when you're not there to prevent accidents.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,662 |
How to Build an Indoor Rabbit Cage
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1. Creating the Cage Walls
1-1. Purchase 2 boxes of wire storage cubes.
You can find these at a home improvement or department store. Most packages come with about 16 wire panels and you need 30 for your cage. With 2 boxes, you'll have 32 panels.
You can also buy wire storage cubes from online suppliers.
1-2. Lay out 9 wire panels for each side wall of the cage.
Start by laying down 3 wire panels in front of you in a horizontal row. Now, add 2 more horizontal rows directly above this row so that you have 1 square wall made from 9 wire panels squares. Afterward, repeat this process so you have two 3 x 3 square walls, which are the side walls of the cage.
Be sure that all of the grid parts are facing upward in the same direction.
1-3. Put down 6 wire panels to create the front and back walls of the cage.
Start by creating another horizontal row of 3 wire panels. Now, add 1 more horizontal row above it to create a rectangle that is 3 wire panels long and 2 wire panels wide. Repeat this process until you have two 2 x 3 rectangles, which are the front and back walls.
Check that all of the grid parts are facing upward.
1-4. Attach the wire panels together with plastic cable ties to create 4 walls.
Wrap 1 cable tie around the 2 wires where the corners of each panel meet. Continue this for every corner to fasten the panels of each wall together. Afterward, the side walls should be connected by 32 cable ties in total and the front walls should be connected by 20 cable ties in total.
Don't worry about tightening the cable ties just yet—just make sure they're tight enough to hold the wire cubes together loosely.
After you're done, check that you have 4 walls laying down flat in front of you—two 3 x 3 walls and two 2 x 3 walls.
Rabbits often don't have an interest in cable ties, but try putting one in their current dwelling to make sure. If they start chewing it, try switching colors or using a different kind of cable tie material, such as metal.
Cut the excess off the zip ties and make sure the pointy part faces outward—not toward the inside of the cage.
2. Building the Cage
2-1. Connect your wall pieces to each other with cable ties.
Start by connecting front wall (2 panels wide and 3 panels tall) to a side wall (3 panels wide and 3 panels tall) using cable ties. Again, connect them at the 2 wires where each corner meets. Now, place the 2 connected walls upright so that they form an "L" shape when looking down on them from above. Create another "L" from the remaining 2 walls and then attach each "L" together to create a rectangular cage.
Make sure that the panels of each wall face the same direction.
Check that your cage is 3 panels long and 2 panels wide.
Remove the excess portion zip ties and face them away from the cage.
2-2. Align two 46 inch (120 cm) long dowels along the sides of the cage.
Make sure that each dowel is slightly longer than the side walls of your cage. Slip the dowels through the top corner openings in middle panels of the front and back walls of the cage.
Use dowels made from untreated wood, such as pine.
Make sure the dowels have a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).
2-3. Insert two 32 inch (81 cm) dowels along the front of the cage.
Again, be sure the length of each dowel is a bit longer than the front wall of the cage. Put them through the 2 bottom corner openings of the frontmost middle panels of the side walls.
Make sure there is 1 panel between the length dowels and width dowels.
Use dowels with a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).
2-4. Attach the dowels to the cage using cable ties.
The first pair of dowels runs down the sides of the cage and the second down the front. Regardless, both pairs should run parallel to the tops of the wire storage panels. Wrap the twist ties around each of the dowels and the wires of the closest panels.
Be sure to tighten the twist ties so that the dowels can hold your rabbit's weight.
Again, remove excess parts of the zip ties and make sure that pointy ends face outward away from the cage.
2-5. Add 1 piece of plywood on top of each pair of dowels to create shelves.
Your plywood should be 28 inches (71 cm) wide so that it extends across the width of the cage and rests on the dowels. For length, the top should be 13 inches (33 cm) long and the upper 24 inches (61 cm) long.
Keep the bottom shelf less than 1 foot (0.30 m) high so your rabbits can jump up and down them
Never use MDF boards as they're toxic.
2-6. Create a ramp between the shelves.
Place a piece of plywood 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) long running from the lower shelf to the top shelf. Although your rabbit will likely be able to jump from each one, giving them an alternative option is a nice touch.
3. Furnishing Your Rabbit Cage
3-1. Give your rabbit a straw tray to keep its dropping and excess food out of the cage.
Fill a high-walled plastic container—about 1 foot (0.30 m) tall—with hay about halfway to the top. Afterward, place a small litter pan on one side and fill it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep with hardwood fuel pellets or another absorbent material.
Empty the pan into a compost bin whenever it gets soiled. Always refill it afterward.
3-2. Add 5 to 6 in (13 to 15 cm) of bedding into the straw tray.
You can also use hay or sawdust. However, straw is the best option as it's most comfy and holds heat in winter. Be sure to clean the bedding daily and replace soiled areas with clean material.
Don't line the cage with carpet, as it can give your rabbit bowel problems when chewed.
3-3. Add a food bowl
Grass is the best food for rabbits, although hay is a great alternative. Add some fresh fruits and vegetables for treats and try to switch them up regularly to create a balanced diet. Always provide unlimited grass or hay and 256 to 512 grams (2 to 4 cups) of fresh vegetables per 2.26 kilograms (5.0 lb) of body weight.
Feed your rabbit hay alone for periods of 2 to 3 days to keep their teeth in shape.
Provide 1 food bowl—as well as 1 water bowl—per rabbit.
Vegetables include beet greens, radish, asparagus, broccoli, bok choy, brussels sprouts, parsley, watercress, and wheat grass.
3-4. Put some toys in your cage for your rabbit to play with.
Toys such as cardboard boxes and tubes are great. Try cutting some holes into a cardboard box and add some dry hay and shredded paper for your rabbit to dig through. Just be sure that your toys are rabbit-safe!
Purchase toys specifically labeled for rabbits. However, toys designed for cats, parrots, or babies are usually rabbit-safe as well.
Add some sturdy branches of orchard woods (pear, apple, cherry, plum) or commercial rabbit chews from pet stores.
Some rabbits might even enjoy balls with a treat inside.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating the Cage Walls\\n1-1. Purchase 2 boxes of wire storage cubes.\\nYou can find these at a home improvement or department store. Most packages come with about 16 wire panels and you need 30 for your cage. With 2 boxes, you'll have 32 panels.\\nYou can also buy wire storage cubes from online suppliers.\\n1-2. Lay out 9 wire panels for each side wall of the cage.\\nStart by laying down 3 wire panels in front of you in a horizontal row. Now, add 2 more horizontal rows directly above this row so that you have 1 square wall made from 9 wire panels squares. Afterward, repeat this process so you have two 3 x 3 square walls, which are the side walls of the cage.\\nBe sure that all of the grid parts are facing upward in the same direction.\\n1-3. Put down 6 wire panels to create the front and back walls of the cage.\\nStart by creating another horizontal row of 3 wire panels. Now, add 1 more horizontal row above it to create a rectangle that is 3 wire panels long and 2 wire panels wide. Repeat this process until you have two 2 x 3 rectangles, which are the front and back walls.\\nCheck that all of the grid parts are facing upward.\\n1-4. Attach the wire panels together with plastic cable ties to create 4 walls.\\nWrap 1 cable tie around the 2 wires where the corners of each panel meet. Continue this for every corner to fasten the panels of each wall together. Afterward, the side walls should be connected by 32 cable ties in total and the front walls should be connected by 20 cable ties in total.\\nDon't worry about tightening the cable ties just yet—just make sure they're tight enough to hold the wire cubes together loosely.\\nAfter you're done, check that you have 4 walls laying down flat in front of you—two 3 x 3 walls and two 2 x 3 walls.\\nRabbits often don't have an interest in cable ties, but try putting one in their current dwelling to make sure. If they start chewing it, try switching colors or using a different kind of cable tie material, such as metal.\\nCut the excess off the zip ties and make sure the pointy part faces outward—not toward the inside of the cage.\\n2. Building the Cage\\n2-1. Connect your wall pieces to each other with cable ties.\\nStart by connecting front wall (2 panels wide and 3 panels tall) to a side wall (3 panels wide and 3 panels tall) using cable ties. Again, connect them at the 2 wires where each corner meets. Now, place the 2 connected walls upright so that they form an \\\"L\\\" shape when looking down on them from above. Create another \\\"L\\\" from the remaining 2 walls and then attach each \\\"L\\\" together to create a rectangular cage.\\nMake sure that the panels of each wall face the same direction.\\nCheck that your cage is 3 panels long and 2 panels wide.\\nRemove the excess portion zip ties and face them away from the cage.\\n2-2. Align two 46 inch (120 cm) long dowels along the sides of the cage.\\nMake sure that each dowel is slightly longer than the side walls of your cage. Slip the dowels through the top corner openings in middle panels of the front and back walls of the cage.\\nUse dowels made from untreated wood, such as pine.\\nMake sure the dowels have a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).\\n2-3. Insert two 32 inch (81 cm) dowels along the front of the cage.\\nAgain, be sure the length of each dowel is a bit longer than the front wall of the cage. Put them through the 2 bottom corner openings of the frontmost middle panels of the side walls.\\nMake sure there is 1 panel between the length dowels and width dowels.\\nUse dowels with a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).\\n2-4. Attach the dowels to the cage using cable ties.\\nThe first pair of dowels runs down the sides of the cage and the second down the front. Regardless, both pairs should run parallel to the tops of the wire storage panels. Wrap the twist ties around each of the dowels and the wires of the closest panels.\\nBe sure to tighten the twist ties so that the dowels can hold your rabbit's weight.\\nAgain, remove excess parts of the zip ties and make sure that pointy ends face outward away from the cage.\\n2-5. Add 1 piece of plywood on top of each pair of dowels to create shelves.\\nYour plywood should be 28 inches (71 cm) wide so that it extends across the width of the cage and rests on the dowels. For length, the top should be 13 inches (33 cm) long and the upper 24 inches (61 cm) long.\\nKeep the bottom shelf less than 1 foot (0.30 m) high so your rabbits can jump up and down them\\nNever use MDF boards as they're toxic.\\n2-6. Create a ramp between the shelves.\\nPlace a piece of plywood 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) long running from the lower shelf to the top shelf. Although your rabbit will likely be able to jump from each one, giving them an alternative option is a nice touch.\\n3. Furnishing Your Rabbit Cage\\n3-1. Give your rabbit a straw tray to keep its dropping and excess food out of the cage.\\nFill a high-walled plastic container—about 1 foot (0.30 m) tall—with hay about halfway to the top. Afterward, place a small litter pan on one side and fill it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep with hardwood fuel pellets or another absorbent material.\\nEmpty the pan into a compost bin whenever it gets soiled. Always refill it afterward.\\n3-2. Add 5 to 6 in (13 to 15 cm) of bedding into the straw tray.\\nYou can also use hay or sawdust. However, straw is the best option as it's most comfy and holds heat in winter. Be sure to clean the bedding daily and replace soiled areas with clean material.\\nDon't line the cage with carpet, as it can give your rabbit bowel problems when chewed.\\n3-3. Add a food bowl\\nGrass is the best food for rabbits, although hay is a great alternative. Add some fresh fruits and vegetables for treats and try to switch them up regularly to create a balanced diet. Always provide unlimited grass or hay and 256 to 512 grams (2 to 4 cups) of fresh vegetables per 2.26 kilograms (5.0 lb) of body weight.\\nFeed your rabbit hay alone for periods of 2 to 3 days to keep their teeth in shape.\\nProvide 1 food bowl—as well as 1 water bowl—per rabbit.\\nVegetables include beet greens, radish, asparagus, broccoli, bok choy, brussels sprouts, parsley, watercress, and wheat grass.\\n3-4. Put some toys in your cage for your rabbit to play with.\\nToys such as cardboard boxes and tubes are great. Try cutting some holes into a cardboard box and add some dry hay and shredded paper for your rabbit to dig through. Just be sure that your toys are rabbit-safe!\\nPurchase toys specifically labeled for rabbits. However, toys designed for cats, parrots, or babies are usually rabbit-safe as well.\\nAdd some sturdy branches of orchard woods (pear, apple, cherry, plum) or commercial rabbit chews from pet stores.\\nSome rabbits might even enjoy balls with a treat inside.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you have a pet rabbit or are planning to get one, a rabbit cage is one of the big expenses that come with it. Luckily, an indoor rabbit cage is simple to make and offers plenty of opportunity for customization. With some wire panels and plastic cable ties, you can create a simple DIY cage with 2 plywood levels and an open floor and roof.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating the Cage Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase 2 boxes of wire storage cubes.\", \"描述\": \"You can find these at a home improvement or department store. Most packages come with about 16 wire panels and you need 30 for your cage. With 2 boxes, you'll have 32 panels.\\nYou can also buy wire storage cubes from online suppliers.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out 9 wire panels for each side wall of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Start by laying down 3 wire panels in front of you in a horizontal row. Now, add 2 more horizontal rows directly above this row so that you have 1 square wall made from 9 wire panels squares. Afterward, repeat this process so you have two 3 x 3 square walls, which are the side walls of the cage.\\nBe sure that all of the grid parts are facing upward in the same direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put down 6 wire panels to create the front and back walls of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Start by creating another horizontal row of 3 wire panels. Now, add 1 more horizontal row above it to create a rectangle that is 3 wire panels long and 2 wire panels wide. Repeat this process until you have two 2 x 3 rectangles, which are the front and back walls.\\nCheck that all of the grid parts are facing upward.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the wire panels together with plastic cable ties to create 4 walls.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap 1 cable tie around the 2 wires where the corners of each panel meet. Continue this for every corner to fasten the panels of each wall together. Afterward, the side walls should be connected by 32 cable ties in total and the front walls should be connected by 20 cable ties in total.\\nDon't worry about tightening the cable ties just yet—just make sure they're tight enough to hold the wire cubes together loosely.\\nAfter you're done, check that you have 4 walls laying down flat in front of you—two 3 x 3 walls and two 2 x 3 walls.\\nRabbits often don't have an interest in cable ties, but try putting one in their current dwelling to make sure. If they start chewing it, try switching colors or using a different kind of cable tie material, such as metal.\\nCut the excess off the zip ties and make sure the pointy part faces outward—not toward the inside of the cage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect your wall pieces to each other with cable ties.\", \"描述\": \"Start by connecting front wall (2 panels wide and 3 panels tall) to a side wall (3 panels wide and 3 panels tall) using cable ties. Again, connect them at the 2 wires where each corner meets. Now, place the 2 connected walls upright so that they form an \\\"L\\\" shape when looking down on them from above. Create another \\\"L\\\" from the remaining 2 walls and then attach each \\\"L\\\" together to create a rectangular cage.\\nMake sure that the panels of each wall face the same direction.\\nCheck that your cage is 3 panels long and 2 panels wide.\\nRemove the excess portion zip ties and face them away from the cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Align two 46 inch (120 cm) long dowels along the sides of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that each dowel is slightly longer than the side walls of your cage. Slip the dowels through the top corner openings in middle panels of the front and back walls of the cage.\\nUse dowels made from untreated wood, such as pine.\\nMake sure the dowels have a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert two 32 inch (81 cm) dowels along the front of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Again, be sure the length of each dowel is a bit longer than the front wall of the cage. Put them through the 2 bottom corner openings of the frontmost middle panels of the side walls.\\nMake sure there is 1 panel between the length dowels and width dowels.\\nUse dowels with a diameter of 1.125 inches (2.86 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the dowels to the cage using cable ties.\", \"描述\": \"The first pair of dowels runs down the sides of the cage and the second down the front. Regardless, both pairs should run parallel to the tops of the wire storage panels. Wrap the twist ties around each of the dowels and the wires of the closest panels.\\nBe sure to tighten the twist ties so that the dowels can hold your rabbit's weight.\\nAgain, remove excess parts of the zip ties and make sure that pointy ends face outward away from the cage.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add 1 piece of plywood on top of each pair of dowels to create shelves.\", \"描述\": \"Your plywood should be 28 inches (71 cm) wide so that it extends across the width of the cage and rests on the dowels. For length, the top should be 13 inches (33 cm) long and the upper 24 inches (61 cm) long.\\nKeep the bottom shelf less than 1 foot (0.30 m) high so your rabbits can jump up and down them\\nNever use MDF boards as they're toxic.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a ramp between the shelves.\", \"描述\": \"Place a piece of plywood 4 to 5 feet (1.2 to 1.5 m) long running from the lower shelf to the top shelf. Although your rabbit will likely be able to jump from each one, giving them an alternative option is a nice touch.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Furnishing Your Rabbit Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give your rabbit a straw tray to keep its dropping and excess food out of the cage.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a high-walled plastic container—about 1 foot (0.30 m) tall—with hay about halfway to the top. Afterward, place a small litter pan on one side and fill it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep with hardwood fuel pellets or another absorbent material.\\nEmpty the pan into a compost bin whenever it gets soiled. Always refill it afterward.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add 5 to 6 in (13 to 15 cm) of bedding into the straw tray.\", \"描述\": \"You can also use hay or sawdust. However, straw is the best option as it's most comfy and holds heat in winter. Be sure to clean the bedding daily and replace soiled areas with clean material.\\nDon't line the cage with carpet, as it can give your rabbit bowel problems when chewed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a food bowl\", \"描述\": \"Grass is the best food for rabbits, although hay is a great alternative. Add some fresh fruits and vegetables for treats and try to switch them up regularly to create a balanced diet. Always provide unlimited grass or hay and 256 to 512 grams (2 to 4 cups) of fresh vegetables per 2.26 kilograms (5.0 lb) of body weight.\\nFeed your rabbit hay alone for periods of 2 to 3 days to keep their teeth in shape.\\nProvide 1 food bowl—as well as 1 water bowl—per rabbit.\\nVegetables include beet greens, radish, asparagus, broccoli, bok choy, brussels sprouts, parsley, watercress, and wheat grass.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put some toys in your cage for your rabbit to play with.\", \"描述\": \"Toys such as cardboard boxes and tubes are great. Try cutting some holes into a cardboard box and add some dry hay and shredded paper for your rabbit to dig through. Just be sure that your toys are rabbit-safe!\\nPurchase toys specifically labeled for rabbits. However, toys designed for cats, parrots, or babies are usually rabbit-safe as well.\\nAdd some sturdy branches of orchard woods (pear, apple, cherry, plum) or commercial rabbit chews from pet stores.\\nSome rabbits might even enjoy balls with a treat inside.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,663 |
How to Build an Inexpensive Dog Kennel
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1. Designing Your Dog Kennel
1-1. Decide how big the kennel will be.
The size of the kennel should be based on how big your dog is and how long it will be in the kennel each day. The larger your dog and longer amount of time it will spend in the kennel, the larger the kennel should be.
For example, for a smaller dog like a chihuahua, a kennel that is around 6 feet (1.8 meters) long and 6 feet (1.8 meters) wide would work.
If you have a large dog, like an adult golden retriever, aim for a kennel that's at least 10 feet (3 meters) long and 10 feet (3 meters) wide.
1-2. Pick a spot in your yard for the kennel.
Choose an area away from nearby sidewalks or streets if you're worried about your dog barking at people walking by. Look for a spot in your yard that gets a lot of shade during the day, like a spot under a large tree. Put the kennel off to the side or in a corner of the yard so it doesn't get in the way.
1-3. Use chain link fencing for the kennel’s perimeter.
Chain link fencing is more affordable than other fencing options, and it's secure. Get fencing that’s at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) tall. You may need taller fencing if you have a large dog.
You can find chain link fencing at your local hardware store. Your fencing should also come with a gate, posts, top rails, and the necessary attachments for putting up the fence.
1-4. Give your dog shelter from the elements.
It's important you provide somewhere for your dog to go in case it's raining or hot outside. Decide whether you want to put a dog house in the kennel or install a roof over it.
If you go with a dog house, make sure it's not so tall that your dog can use it to escape over the side of the kennel.
A cheap shelter solution is to install a tarp roof over half of the kennel.
2. Getting the Kennel Area Ready
2-1. Use wood stakes and twine to mark where the kennel will go.
Use a tape measure to measure the distance for each side. Hammer a stake into the ground where each corner of the kennel will be. Connect the stakes with twine so you have a square or rectangular perimeter where the kennel will be set up.
2-2. Lay down a floor if your dog likes to dig.
Build the kennel over grass if at all possible. However, if you’re worried your dog could dig its way out of the kennel, you should put down a pea gravel or flagstone flooring. Lay down a sheet of landscaping fabric before you put down the flooring to keep weeds out.
Do not use concrete as flooring. Concrete causes damage to dogs’ paws and joints.
If you use gravel, you’ll have to add more each year. Some gravel will be lost when you pick up dog poop in the kennel.
2-3. Dig holes for the fence posts using a post-hole digger.
You don’t need to use an expensive one; a cheap post-hole digger from your local hardware store will work. Use the post-hole digger to dig a 2 foot (0.6 meters) hole at each corner. Make the holes twice the diameter of the fence posts, about 6 inches (15.2 cm).
For a large kennel, you may want to put a post in between each of the corner posts for extra support.
Add a 2 inch (5.1 cm) layer of gravel to the bottom of each post hole to help with drainage.
2-4. Dig a hole for the post the gate will attach to.
Choose which side you want the gate to be on. Pick one of the corner posts on that side that you want the gate to be next to. Use a tape measure to measure the length of the gate. Make the distance between the corner post hole and the new hole the same as the length of the gate.
For example, if your gate is 45 inches (114 cm) long, the distance between the center of the corner post hole and the center of the new hole you’re digging should be 45 inches (114 cm).
3. Installing the Fencing
3-1. Mix concrete and water in a wheelbarrow.
Find a cheap bag of concrete at your local hardware store. Pour the bag of concrete into the wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the side of the bag for how much water to mix in. Pour the water in and stir the mixture with a gardening hoe until the concrete is completely mixed in with the water.
Always wear gloves and protective glasses when you’re mixing concrete.
3-2. Cement the posts into the post holes.
Center a post in one of the holes and pour the concrete mixture into the hole using the wheelbarrow. Fill the hole all the way up until the concrete is level with the ground. Use a leveler to check if the post is straight. Repeat with all of the fence posts.
Recruit a helper for this process. It’s easier to pour the cement if you have someone else holding the posts in the hole while you pour.
If there’s no one around to help, tie a rope around the post and stake the two ends of the rope into the ground to steady it in the hole.
3-3. Add the tension bands to the posts.
The tension bands are the thick metal bands with bolts attached. Slide three tension bands onto each middle post (one goes up top, one in the middle, and one at the bottom). Slide six tension bands onto each corner post (two at the top, two in the middle, and two at the bottom). Tighten the bands into place by turning the bolts.
The long, flat side of the tension band should be parallel with the outside of the fence.
3-4. Add the cups and caps to the top of the posts.
The cups are the metal bands with sockets attached. Each corner post should have two cups. Slide the cups onto the corner posts, one on top of the other. The sockets on the cups should each be facing a different neighboring post. Top off each post with one of the rounded caps. The middle posts should be topped off with a cap that has a ring on top of it.
3-5. Insert the top rails into the posts.
The top rails are the long metal tubes that will be the top of the fence. Slide a top rail through the ring on one of the middle post caps and insert the end of the rail into the cup on a corner post. Tighten the bolt attached to the cup. Slide the end of another top rail over the thin end of the first top rail so they’re connected. Insert the other end of the second rail into the cup on the neighboring corner post. Repeat the process on the other three sides of the kennel.
3-6. Attach the fencing to a corner post.
Unroll the fencing and line up the end with one of the corner posts. Slide a tension bar (one of the thin, flat metal bars that came with your fence supplies) down through a link at the top of the fencing and through the tension band on the post. Continue to slide the bar down through the individual links at the end of the fencing until you reach the bottom tension band. Tighten the bolts on each tension band to secure the tension bar in place.
After the tension bar is in place, tie the top of the fence to the top rail using a chain metal tie.
3-7. Unroll the fencing to an adjacent corner post.
Pull the fencing so it’s taut and repeat the process with the tension bar to secure the fence to the corner post. Tie the top of the fencing to the top rail. If there’s a middle post in between the two corner posts, tie the fencing to the post using a metal tie.
3-8. Add fencing to the remaining sides of the kennel.
Leave the space you made for the gate empty. When you’re finished, the fencing on all four sides of the kennel should be taut and secure. Use your hands to push and pull on the fencing to see if any bolts need to be tightened more.
4. Attaching the Kennel Gate
4-1. Put the hinges for the gate on the gate post.
Slide the two hinges onto the gate post and secure them in place by tightening the bolts. One hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the top of the gate post. The other hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the bottom of the gate post. The pin on the top hinge should be facing downward, and the pin on the bottom hinge should be facing up.
4-2. Attach the gate to the hinges on the gate post.
Use the gate that you purchased with the chain link fencing. Position the gate so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the ground. Slide the hinges on the gate onto the corresponding pins on the gate post. Tighten the bolts on both hinges to secure the gate in place.
4-3. Secure the gate latch on the gate.
Position the gate latch so it’s on the opposite side of the hinges. Adjust the height of the latch until you find a spot you’re comfortable with. Hold the latch steady and tighten the bolt attached to the latch to secure it on the gate.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Dog Kennel\\n1-1. Decide how big the kennel will be.\\nThe size of the kennel should be based on how big your dog is and how long it will be in the kennel each day. The larger your dog and longer amount of time it will spend in the kennel, the larger the kennel should be.\\nFor example, for a smaller dog like a chihuahua, a kennel that is around 6 feet (1.8 meters) long and 6 feet (1.8 meters) wide would work.\\nIf you have a large dog, like an adult golden retriever, aim for a kennel that's at least 10 feet (3 meters) long and 10 feet (3 meters) wide.\\n1-2. Pick a spot in your yard for the kennel.\\nChoose an area away from nearby sidewalks or streets if you're worried about your dog barking at people walking by. Look for a spot in your yard that gets a lot of shade during the day, like a spot under a large tree. Put the kennel off to the side or in a corner of the yard so it doesn't get in the way.\\n1-3. Use chain link fencing for the kennel’s perimeter.\\nChain link fencing is more affordable than other fencing options, and it's secure. Get fencing that’s at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) tall. You may need taller fencing if you have a large dog. \\nYou can find chain link fencing at your local hardware store. Your fencing should also come with a gate, posts, top rails, and the necessary attachments for putting up the fence.\\n1-4. Give your dog shelter from the elements.\\nIt's important you provide somewhere for your dog to go in case it's raining or hot outside. Decide whether you want to put a dog house in the kennel or install a roof over it.\\nIf you go with a dog house, make sure it's not so tall that your dog can use it to escape over the side of the kennel.\\nA cheap shelter solution is to install a tarp roof over half of the kennel.\\n2. Getting the Kennel Area Ready\\n2-1. Use wood stakes and twine to mark where the kennel will go.\\nUse a tape measure to measure the distance for each side. Hammer a stake into the ground where each corner of the kennel will be. Connect the stakes with twine so you have a square or rectangular perimeter where the kennel will be set up.\\n2-2. Lay down a floor if your dog likes to dig.\\nBuild the kennel over grass if at all possible. However, if you’re worried your dog could dig its way out of the kennel, you should put down a pea gravel or flagstone flooring. Lay down a sheet of landscaping fabric before you put down the flooring to keep weeds out.\\nDo not use concrete as flooring. Concrete causes damage to dogs’ paws and joints.\\nIf you use gravel, you’ll have to add more each year. Some gravel will be lost when you pick up dog poop in the kennel.\\n2-3. Dig holes for the fence posts using a post-hole digger.\\nYou don’t need to use an expensive one; a cheap post-hole digger from your local hardware store will work. Use the post-hole digger to dig a 2 foot (0.6 meters) hole at each corner. Make the holes twice the diameter of the fence posts, about 6 inches (15.2 cm).\\nFor a large kennel, you may want to put a post in between each of the corner posts for extra support.\\nAdd a 2 inch (5.1 cm) layer of gravel to the bottom of each post hole to help with drainage.\\n2-4. Dig a hole for the post the gate will attach to.\\nChoose which side you want the gate to be on. Pick one of the corner posts on that side that you want the gate to be next to. Use a tape measure to measure the length of the gate. Make the distance between the corner post hole and the new hole the same as the length of the gate.\\nFor example, if your gate is 45 inches (114 cm) long, the distance between the center of the corner post hole and the center of the new hole you’re digging should be 45 inches (114 cm).\\n3. Installing the Fencing\\n3-1. Mix concrete and water in a wheelbarrow.\\nFind a cheap bag of concrete at your local hardware store. Pour the bag of concrete into the wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the side of the bag for how much water to mix in. Pour the water in and stir the mixture with a gardening hoe until the concrete is completely mixed in with the water.\\nAlways wear gloves and protective glasses when you’re mixing concrete.\\n3-2. Cement the posts into the post holes.\\nCenter a post in one of the holes and pour the concrete mixture into the hole using the wheelbarrow. Fill the hole all the way up until the concrete is level with the ground. Use a leveler to check if the post is straight. Repeat with all of the fence posts.\\nRecruit a helper for this process. It’s easier to pour the cement if you have someone else holding the posts in the hole while you pour.\\nIf there’s no one around to help, tie a rope around the post and stake the two ends of the rope into the ground to steady it in the hole.\\n3-3. Add the tension bands to the posts.\\nThe tension bands are the thick metal bands with bolts attached. Slide three tension bands onto each middle post (one goes up top, one in the middle, and one at the bottom). Slide six tension bands onto each corner post (two at the top, two in the middle, and two at the bottom). Tighten the bands into place by turning the bolts.\\nThe long, flat side of the tension band should be parallel with the outside of the fence.\\n3-4. Add the cups and caps to the top of the posts.\\nThe cups are the metal bands with sockets attached. Each corner post should have two cups. Slide the cups onto the corner posts, one on top of the other. The sockets on the cups should each be facing a different neighboring post. Top off each post with one of the rounded caps. The middle posts should be topped off with a cap that has a ring on top of it.\\n3-5. Insert the top rails into the posts.\\nThe top rails are the long metal tubes that will be the top of the fence. Slide a top rail through the ring on one of the middle post caps and insert the end of the rail into the cup on a corner post. Tighten the bolt attached to the cup. Slide the end of another top rail over the thin end of the first top rail so they’re connected. Insert the other end of the second rail into the cup on the neighboring corner post. Repeat the process on the other three sides of the kennel.\\n3-6. Attach the fencing to a corner post.\\nUnroll the fencing and line up the end with one of the corner posts. Slide a tension bar (one of the thin, flat metal bars that came with your fence supplies) down through a link at the top of the fencing and through the tension band on the post. Continue to slide the bar down through the individual links at the end of the fencing until you reach the bottom tension band. Tighten the bolts on each tension band to secure the tension bar in place.\\nAfter the tension bar is in place, tie the top of the fence to the top rail using a chain metal tie.\\n3-7. Unroll the fencing to an adjacent corner post.\\nPull the fencing so it’s taut and repeat the process with the tension bar to secure the fence to the corner post. Tie the top of the fencing to the top rail. If there’s a middle post in between the two corner posts, tie the fencing to the post using a metal tie.\\n3-8. Add fencing to the remaining sides of the kennel.\\nLeave the space you made for the gate empty. When you’re finished, the fencing on all four sides of the kennel should be taut and secure. Use your hands to push and pull on the fencing to see if any bolts need to be tightened more.\\n4. Attaching the Kennel Gate\\n4-1. Put the hinges for the gate on the gate post.\\nSlide the two hinges onto the gate post and secure them in place by tightening the bolts. One hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the top of the gate post. The other hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the bottom of the gate post. The pin on the top hinge should be facing downward, and the pin on the bottom hinge should be facing up.\\n4-2. Attach the gate to the hinges on the gate post.\\nUse the gate that you purchased with the chain link fencing. Position the gate so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the ground. Slide the hinges on the gate onto the corresponding pins on the gate post. Tighten the bolts on both hinges to secure the gate in place.\\n4-3. Secure the gate latch on the gate.\\nPosition the gate latch so it’s on the opposite side of the hinges. Adjust the height of the latch until you find a spot you’re comfortable with. Hold the latch steady and tighten the bolt attached to the latch to secure it on the gate.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own dog kennel is an inexpensive way to keep your dog safe and secure outside, and, best of all, this DIY project can be done relatively easily. Building your own kennel also lets you make it to your exact qualifications, whether that be size or appearance. The key to building an inexpensive kennel is using cheaper materials, like chain link fencing or ready-made plastics. After gathering your materials and drafting a design, you can begin to build your dog the best kennel!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Dog Kennel\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide how big the kennel will be.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the kennel should be based on how big your dog is and how long it will be in the kennel each day. The larger your dog and longer amount of time it will spend in the kennel, the larger the kennel should be.\\nFor example, for a smaller dog like a chihuahua, a kennel that is around 6 feet (1.8 meters) long and 6 feet (1.8 meters) wide would work.\\nIf you have a large dog, like an adult golden retriever, aim for a kennel that's at least 10 feet (3 meters) long and 10 feet (3 meters) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick a spot in your yard for the kennel.\", \"描述\": \"Choose an area away from nearby sidewalks or streets if you're worried about your dog barking at people walking by. Look for a spot in your yard that gets a lot of shade during the day, like a spot under a large tree. Put the kennel off to the side or in a corner of the yard so it doesn't get in the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use chain link fencing for the kennel’s perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"Chain link fencing is more affordable than other fencing options, and it's secure. Get fencing that’s at least 4 feet (1.2 meters) tall. You may need taller fencing if you have a large dog. \\nYou can find chain link fencing at your local hardware store. Your fencing should also come with a gate, posts, top rails, and the necessary attachments for putting up the fence.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give your dog shelter from the elements.\", \"描述\": \"It's important you provide somewhere for your dog to go in case it's raining or hot outside. Decide whether you want to put a dog house in the kennel or install a roof over it.\\nIf you go with a dog house, make sure it's not so tall that your dog can use it to escape over the side of the kennel.\\nA cheap shelter solution is to install a tarp roof over half of the kennel.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Getting the Kennel Area Ready\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use wood stakes and twine to mark where the kennel will go.\", \"描述\": \"Use a tape measure to measure the distance for each side. Hammer a stake into the ground where each corner of the kennel will be. Connect the stakes with twine so you have a square or rectangular perimeter where the kennel will be set up.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay down a floor if your dog likes to dig.\", \"描述\": \"Build the kennel over grass if at all possible. However, if you’re worried your dog could dig its way out of the kennel, you should put down a pea gravel or flagstone flooring. Lay down a sheet of landscaping fabric before you put down the flooring to keep weeds out.\\nDo not use concrete as flooring. Concrete causes damage to dogs’ paws and joints.\\nIf you use gravel, you’ll have to add more each year. Some gravel will be lost when you pick up dog poop in the kennel.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig holes for the fence posts using a post-hole digger.\", \"描述\": \"You don’t need to use an expensive one; a cheap post-hole digger from your local hardware store will work. Use the post-hole digger to dig a 2 foot (0.6 meters) hole at each corner. Make the holes twice the diameter of the fence posts, about 6 inches (15.2 cm).\\nFor a large kennel, you may want to put a post in between each of the corner posts for extra support.\\nAdd a 2 inch (5.1 cm) layer of gravel to the bottom of each post hole to help with drainage.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole for the post the gate will attach to.\", \"描述\": \"Choose which side you want the gate to be on. Pick one of the corner posts on that side that you want the gate to be next to. Use a tape measure to measure the length of the gate. Make the distance between the corner post hole and the new hole the same as the length of the gate.\\nFor example, if your gate is 45 inches (114 cm) long, the distance between the center of the corner post hole and the center of the new hole you’re digging should be 45 inches (114 cm).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing the Fencing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mix concrete and water in a wheelbarrow.\", \"描述\": \"Find a cheap bag of concrete at your local hardware store. Pour the bag of concrete into the wheelbarrow. Read the instructions on the side of the bag for how much water to mix in. Pour the water in and stir the mixture with a gardening hoe until the concrete is completely mixed in with the water.\\nAlways wear gloves and protective glasses when you’re mixing concrete.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cement the posts into the post holes.\", \"描述\": \"Center a post in one of the holes and pour the concrete mixture into the hole using the wheelbarrow. Fill the hole all the way up until the concrete is level with the ground. Use a leveler to check if the post is straight. Repeat with all of the fence posts.\\nRecruit a helper for this process. It’s easier to pour the cement if you have someone else holding the posts in the hole while you pour.\\nIf there’s no one around to help, tie a rope around the post and stake the two ends of the rope into the ground to steady it in the hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the tension bands to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"The tension bands are the thick metal bands with bolts attached. Slide three tension bands onto each middle post (one goes up top, one in the middle, and one at the bottom). Slide six tension bands onto each corner post (two at the top, two in the middle, and two at the bottom). Tighten the bands into place by turning the bolts.\\nThe long, flat side of the tension band should be parallel with the outside of the fence.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the cups and caps to the top of the posts.\", \"描述\": \"The cups are the metal bands with sockets attached. Each corner post should have two cups. Slide the cups onto the corner posts, one on top of the other. The sockets on the cups should each be facing a different neighboring post. Top off each post with one of the rounded caps. The middle posts should be topped off with a cap that has a ring on top of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Insert the top rails into the posts.\", \"描述\": \"The top rails are the long metal tubes that will be the top of the fence. Slide a top rail through the ring on one of the middle post caps and insert the end of the rail into the cup on a corner post. Tighten the bolt attached to the cup. Slide the end of another top rail over the thin end of the first top rail so they’re connected. Insert the other end of the second rail into the cup on the neighboring corner post. Repeat the process on the other three sides of the kennel.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the fencing to a corner post.\", \"描述\": \"Unroll the fencing and line up the end with one of the corner posts. Slide a tension bar (one of the thin, flat metal bars that came with your fence supplies) down through a link at the top of the fencing and through the tension band on the post. Continue to slide the bar down through the individual links at the end of the fencing until you reach the bottom tension band. Tighten the bolts on each tension band to secure the tension bar in place.\\nAfter the tension bar is in place, tie the top of the fence to the top rail using a chain metal tie.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Unroll the fencing to an adjacent corner post.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the fencing so it’s taut and repeat the process with the tension bar to secure the fence to the corner post. Tie the top of the fencing to the top rail. If there’s a middle post in between the two corner posts, tie the fencing to the post using a metal tie.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add fencing to the remaining sides of the kennel.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the space you made for the gate empty. When you’re finished, the fencing on all four sides of the kennel should be taut and secure. Use your hands to push and pull on the fencing to see if any bolts need to be tightened more.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Kennel Gate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put the hinges for the gate on the gate post.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the two hinges onto the gate post and secure them in place by tightening the bolts. One hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the top of the gate post. The other hinge should be 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the bottom of the gate post. The pin on the top hinge should be facing downward, and the pin on the bottom hinge should be facing up.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the gate to the hinges on the gate post.\", \"描述\": \"Use the gate that you purchased with the chain link fencing. Position the gate so it’s about 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the ground. Slide the hinges on the gate onto the corresponding pins on the gate post. Tighten the bolts on both hinges to secure the gate in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure the gate latch on the gate.\", \"描述\": \"Position the gate latch so it’s on the opposite side of the hinges. Adjust the height of the latch until you find a spot you’re comfortable with. Hold the latch steady and tighten the bolt attached to the latch to secure it on the gate.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,664 |
How to Build an Inexpensive Electric Bicycle
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1. Materials
1-1. Select a mountain bike front disc brakes and wide handlebars.
If you don't own a bike already, search online or in your local area to find a second-hand bike at a good price. Luckily, you can use just about any bike you have on hand, though certain features will yield the best results:
Choose a bike with wheels that are 26", 20", or 16" as these are the most common off-the-shelf wheel sizes. The smaller the wheels are usually found on folding bikes and will accelerate more quickly, be bumpier, and be less efficient at cruising speed.
Mountain bikes are most commonly converted to electric bikes, though you could use a different type as long as it has a strong frame and standard bottom bracket. Don’t use a bike with a carbon fiber frame or forks, as these aren’t strong enough to support the extra weight or handle the extra torque.
Wider handlebars are best as they give you plenty of room for all your accessories and lights.
Front disc brakes will make it easier for you to stop on steep hills.
1-2. Pick up an electric bicycle conversion kit.
If you’ve never built an electric bicycle before, a conversion kit will make the process much simpler. These bolt-on kits contain a throttle, speed controller, and a wheel with a hub motor. Some also come with gauges, displays, and brake levers, though these are not strictly necessary.
Ensure the kit comes with a wheel that is the same size as the existing wheels on your bike! It’s much easier to replace the front wheel than the back, due to the position of the gears, so opt for a kit in which the hub motor is on the front wheel.
In most cases, the battery doesn’t come with the conversion kit. For ease of installation, though, it’s best to purchase the battery and the conversion kit from the same manufacturer.
1-3. Choose a 36- or 48-volt battery with a capacity of 10Ah or 20Ah.
Choose a battery designed for use on an electric bicycle, as it will come with a charger and be much easier to install. Make sure the voltage and capacity of the battery you choose are compatible with the conversion kit you purchased. The higher the voltage of your bike's battery, the more powerful your bike will be. When building an electric bike, choose a 36- or 48-volt battery to allow for speed and comfort.
The capacity of the battery defines how long it'll last. If you’ll be taking short trips, a 10Ah will suit you well, while a 20Ah battery will provide you with extra capacity for slightly longer journeys.
2. Wheel Replacement
2-1. Remove the wheel you need to replace.
Begin by opening the rim or cantilever brake using the lever (if applicable). If the bike has disc brakes, remove the retaining or cotter pin or the clips or springs that hold the pads in place. Pull the pads out with needle-nose pliers and set them aside.
To remove the front wheel, turn the bike over so it’s sitting on the seat and handlebars, then flip the quick-release lever over to the “open” position. Then, simply lift the front wheel off of the bike.
To remove the back wheel, crouch behind the bike. Hold the frame with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to pull the derailer backward. Then lift the bike frame up and off of the rear wheel with your non-dominant hand and unhook the chain with your dominant hand.
2-2. Transfer the tire and inner tube from the old wheel to the new wheel.
Let the air out of the old tire and use a tire lever to separate the tire from the wheel. Pull off both the tire and the inner tube. Reverse the process to install the tire and inner tube on the wheel that came with the conversion kit.
2-3. Put the wheel with the electric hub on your bike and connect the brake components.
Simply reverse the process you used to remove the wheel in order to reinstall it. Be sure to adjust the chain so it fits properly if you’re replacing the back wheel. If the bike has rim or cantilever brakes, simply close them over the new wheel using the lever. If the bike has disc brakes, put the pads back in place and secure them using the clips, springs, or cotter or retaining pin.
Adjust the brakes as needed, either by aligning the calipers (for mechanical brakes) or pumping the brake lever (for hydraulic brakes).
3. Final Installations
3-1. Attach the speed controller and the throttle.
Follow the directions in the conversion kit for installing these 2 parts using the included hardware. Use the provided bolts to secure the speed controller to the frame of the bike above the chain. Then, attach the throttle to the handlebars so it’s easy to reach.
If you have any other accessories, attach them as well. Secure the speed sensor to the back wheel and connect any displays and gauges to the handlebars with the included hardware.
3-2. Connect the battery to the speed controller and the throttle.
Follow the instructions included with the kit to connect each part. Typically, you’ll only need to plug the connector on the speed controller into the connector on the battery, then repeat the process for the throttle. Be sure not to touch the battery wires together, as this could create a dangerous spark!
3-3. Mount the battery onto the bike.
Most e-bike batteries are designed to fit on the frame in place of a water bottle holder. This is the ideal placement since it keeps the center of gravity low. Use the included hardware to attach the battery to the frame as indicated by the instructions that came with the battery.
Alternatively, you could place the battery in a box or basket on the front or back of the bike, particularly if it is too large to fit well on the frame (such as if it’s more than 60 volts).
3-4. Secure any loose cables.
Use zip-ties to attach any loose parts to the frame. Keep safety in mind as you don’t want any cables to get caught while you’re riding.
3-5. Ride your electric bike.
That’s it! You can now cruise around on your e-bike. Just press down gently on the throttle when you’re ready to ride. Go for a test drive in a less populated area so you can get used to it before you take it out on the road.
3-6. Charge the bike
The e-bike battery comes with a charger, making the process super simple. Follow the instructions for connecting the battery to the charger and plug it into a compatible outlet whenever you need to.
Tips
You can also build an e-bike by adding a mid-drive motor, though this option is more expensive and much more involved.[17]
X
Research source
Hard acceleration will use up the battery the fastest, especially from a dead stop.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Materials\\n1-1. Select a mountain bike front disc brakes and wide handlebars.\\nIf you don't own a bike already, search online or in your local area to find a second-hand bike at a good price. Luckily, you can use just about any bike you have on hand, though certain features will yield the best results:\\nChoose a bike with wheels that are 26\\\", 20\\\", or 16\\\" as these are the most common off-the-shelf wheel sizes. The smaller the wheels are usually found on folding bikes and will accelerate more quickly, be bumpier, and be less efficient at cruising speed.\\nMountain bikes are most commonly converted to electric bikes, though you could use a different type as long as it has a strong frame and standard bottom bracket. Don’t use a bike with a carbon fiber frame or forks, as these aren’t strong enough to support the extra weight or handle the extra torque.\\nWider handlebars are best as they give you plenty of room for all your accessories and lights.\\nFront disc brakes will make it easier for you to stop on steep hills.\\n1-2. Pick up an electric bicycle conversion kit.\\nIf you’ve never built an electric bicycle before, a conversion kit will make the process much simpler. These bolt-on kits contain a throttle, speed controller, and a wheel with a hub motor. Some also come with gauges, displays, and brake levers, though these are not strictly necessary.\\nEnsure the kit comes with a wheel that is the same size as the existing wheels on your bike! It’s much easier to replace the front wheel than the back, due to the position of the gears, so opt for a kit in which the hub motor is on the front wheel.\\nIn most cases, the battery doesn’t come with the conversion kit. For ease of installation, though, it’s best to purchase the battery and the conversion kit from the same manufacturer.\\n1-3. Choose a 36- or 48-volt battery with a capacity of 10Ah or 20Ah.\\nChoose a battery designed for use on an electric bicycle, as it will come with a charger and be much easier to install. Make sure the voltage and capacity of the battery you choose are compatible with the conversion kit you purchased. The higher the voltage of your bike's battery, the more powerful your bike will be. When building an electric bike, choose a 36- or 48-volt battery to allow for speed and comfort.\\nThe capacity of the battery defines how long it'll last. If you’ll be taking short trips, a 10Ah will suit you well, while a 20Ah battery will provide you with extra capacity for slightly longer journeys.\\n2. Wheel Replacement\\n2-1. Remove the wheel you need to replace.\\nBegin by opening the rim or cantilever brake using the lever (if applicable). If the bike has disc brakes, remove the retaining or cotter pin or the clips or springs that hold the pads in place. Pull the pads out with needle-nose pliers and set them aside.\\nTo remove the front wheel, turn the bike over so it’s sitting on the seat and handlebars, then flip the quick-release lever over to the “open” position. Then, simply lift the front wheel off of the bike.\\nTo remove the back wheel, crouch behind the bike. Hold the frame with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to pull the derailer backward. Then lift the bike frame up and off of the rear wheel with your non-dominant hand and unhook the chain with your dominant hand.\\n2-2. Transfer the tire and inner tube from the old wheel to the new wheel.\\nLet the air out of the old tire and use a tire lever to separate the tire from the wheel. Pull off both the tire and the inner tube. Reverse the process to install the tire and inner tube on the wheel that came with the conversion kit.\\n2-3. Put the wheel with the electric hub on your bike and connect the brake components.\\nSimply reverse the process you used to remove the wheel in order to reinstall it. Be sure to adjust the chain so it fits properly if you’re replacing the back wheel. If the bike has rim or cantilever brakes, simply close them over the new wheel using the lever. If the bike has disc brakes, put the pads back in place and secure them using the clips, springs, or cotter or retaining pin.\\nAdjust the brakes as needed, either by aligning the calipers (for mechanical brakes) or pumping the brake lever (for hydraulic brakes).\\n3. Final Installations\\n3-1. Attach the speed controller and the throttle.\\nFollow the directions in the conversion kit for installing these 2 parts using the included hardware. Use the provided bolts to secure the speed controller to the frame of the bike above the chain. Then, attach the throttle to the handlebars so it’s easy to reach.\\nIf you have any other accessories, attach them as well. Secure the speed sensor to the back wheel and connect any displays and gauges to the handlebars with the included hardware.\\n3-2. Connect the battery to the speed controller and the throttle.\\nFollow the instructions included with the kit to connect each part. Typically, you’ll only need to plug the connector on the speed controller into the connector on the battery, then repeat the process for the throttle. Be sure not to touch the battery wires together, as this could create a dangerous spark!\\n3-3. Mount the battery onto the bike.\\nMost e-bike batteries are designed to fit on the frame in place of a water bottle holder. This is the ideal placement since it keeps the center of gravity low. Use the included hardware to attach the battery to the frame as indicated by the instructions that came with the battery.\\nAlternatively, you could place the battery in a box or basket on the front or back of the bike, particularly if it is too large to fit well on the frame (such as if it’s more than 60 volts).\\n3-4. Secure any loose cables.\\nUse zip-ties to attach any loose parts to the frame. Keep safety in mind as you don’t want any cables to get caught while you’re riding.\\n3-5. Ride your electric bike.\\nThat’s it! You can now cruise around on your e-bike. Just press down gently on the throttle when you’re ready to ride. Go for a test drive in a less populated area so you can get used to it before you take it out on the road.\\n3-6. Charge the bike\\nThe e-bike battery comes with a charger, making the process super simple. Follow the instructions for connecting the battery to the charger and plug it into a compatible outlet whenever you need to.\\nTips\\nYou can also build an e-bike by adding a mid-drive motor, though this option is more expensive and much more involved.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nHard acceleration will use up the battery the fastest, especially from a dead stop.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"An electric bike is a lot easier to build than you might think! All you need is a bike in good working order, a conversion kit, and a battery. Using a conversion kit makes the process super simple and fast. And if you shop online to find the best deal on the kit and repurpose a bike you already own, this can be an inexpensive project.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a mountain bike front disc brakes and wide handlebars.\", \"描述\": \"If you don't own a bike already, search online or in your local area to find a second-hand bike at a good price. Luckily, you can use just about any bike you have on hand, though certain features will yield the best results:\\nChoose a bike with wheels that are 26\\\", 20\\\", or 16\\\" as these are the most common off-the-shelf wheel sizes. The smaller the wheels are usually found on folding bikes and will accelerate more quickly, be bumpier, and be less efficient at cruising speed.\\nMountain bikes are most commonly converted to electric bikes, though you could use a different type as long as it has a strong frame and standard bottom bracket. Don’t use a bike with a carbon fiber frame or forks, as these aren’t strong enough to support the extra weight or handle the extra torque.\\nWider handlebars are best as they give you plenty of room for all your accessories and lights.\\nFront disc brakes will make it easier for you to stop on steep hills.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick up an electric bicycle conversion kit.\", \"描述\": \"If you’ve never built an electric bicycle before, a conversion kit will make the process much simpler. These bolt-on kits contain a throttle, speed controller, and a wheel with a hub motor. Some also come with gauges, displays, and brake levers, though these are not strictly necessary.\\nEnsure the kit comes with a wheel that is the same size as the existing wheels on your bike! It’s much easier to replace the front wheel than the back, due to the position of the gears, so opt for a kit in which the hub motor is on the front wheel.\\nIn most cases, the battery doesn’t come with the conversion kit. For ease of installation, though, it’s best to purchase the battery and the conversion kit from the same manufacturer.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a 36- or 48-volt battery with a capacity of 10Ah or 20Ah.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a battery designed for use on an electric bicycle, as it will come with a charger and be much easier to install. Make sure the voltage and capacity of the battery you choose are compatible with the conversion kit you purchased. The higher the voltage of your bike's battery, the more powerful your bike will be. When building an electric bike, choose a 36- or 48-volt battery to allow for speed and comfort.\\nThe capacity of the battery defines how long it'll last. If you’ll be taking short trips, a 10Ah will suit you well, while a 20Ah battery will provide you with extra capacity for slightly longer journeys.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wheel Replacement\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove the wheel you need to replace.\", \"描述\": \"Begin by opening the rim or cantilever brake using the lever (if applicable). If the bike has disc brakes, remove the retaining or cotter pin or the clips or springs that hold the pads in place. Pull the pads out with needle-nose pliers and set them aside.\\nTo remove the front wheel, turn the bike over so it’s sitting on the seat and handlebars, then flip the quick-release lever over to the “open” position. Then, simply lift the front wheel off of the bike.\\nTo remove the back wheel, crouch behind the bike. Hold the frame with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to pull the derailer backward. Then lift the bike frame up and off of the rear wheel with your non-dominant hand and unhook the chain with your dominant hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transfer the tire and inner tube from the old wheel to the new wheel.\", \"描述\": \"Let the air out of the old tire and use a tire lever to separate the tire from the wheel. Pull off both the tire and the inner tube. Reverse the process to install the tire and inner tube on the wheel that came with the conversion kit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the wheel with the electric hub on your bike and connect the brake components.\", \"描述\": \"Simply reverse the process you used to remove the wheel in order to reinstall it. Be sure to adjust the chain so it fits properly if you’re replacing the back wheel. If the bike has rim or cantilever brakes, simply close them over the new wheel using the lever. If the bike has disc brakes, put the pads back in place and secure them using the clips, springs, or cotter or retaining pin.\\nAdjust the brakes as needed, either by aligning the calipers (for mechanical brakes) or pumping the brake lever (for hydraulic brakes).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Final Installations\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the speed controller and the throttle.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the directions in the conversion kit for installing these 2 parts using the included hardware. Use the provided bolts to secure the speed controller to the frame of the bike above the chain. Then, attach the throttle to the handlebars so it’s easy to reach.\\nIf you have any other accessories, attach them as well. Secure the speed sensor to the back wheel and connect any displays and gauges to the handlebars with the included hardware.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the battery to the speed controller and the throttle.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the instructions included with the kit to connect each part. Typically, you’ll only need to plug the connector on the speed controller into the connector on the battery, then repeat the process for the throttle. Be sure not to touch the battery wires together, as this could create a dangerous spark!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mount the battery onto the bike.\", \"描述\": \"Most e-bike batteries are designed to fit on the frame in place of a water bottle holder. This is the ideal placement since it keeps the center of gravity low. Use the included hardware to attach the battery to the frame as indicated by the instructions that came with the battery.\\nAlternatively, you could place the battery in a box or basket on the front or back of the bike, particularly if it is too large to fit well on the frame (such as if it’s more than 60 volts).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure any loose cables.\", \"描述\": \"Use zip-ties to attach any loose parts to the frame. Keep safety in mind as you don’t want any cables to get caught while you’re riding.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ride your electric bike.\", \"描述\": \"That’s it! You can now cruise around on your e-bike. Just press down gently on the throttle when you’re ready to ride. Go for a test drive in a less populated area so you can get used to it before you take it out on the road.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Charge the bike\", \"描述\": \"The e-bike battery comes with a charger, making the process super simple. Follow the instructions for connecting the battery to the charger and plug it into a compatible outlet whenever you need to.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also build an e-bike by adding a mid-drive motor, though this option is more expensive and much more involved.[17]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Hard acceleration will use up the battery the fastest, especially from a dead stop.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,665 |
How to Build an Insulated or Heated Doghouse
|
1. Steps
1-1. Determine the size of the doghouse:
Measure your dogs length, then add 12” to determine the width of the doghouse. Add 18” to determine the length of the doghouse. Measure your dog's height, and then add 9” to determine the front of the doghouse and add 3” to determine the height of the back of the doghouse.
1-2. Once you have determined the size the doghouse, begin by cutting the floor joists using the 2x4's.
You will need to cut two joists for the length of the doghouse and three for the width. Butt the length parts up to the width parts making a rectangle. Screw ends together using 3” exterior screws. Center the third width part in the rectangle and screw to secure it. Now you have the frame of the floor of the doghouse.
1-3. Cut ¾ plywood to fit over floor frame.
Screw down to floor frame using 1 ¼ exterior screws. Flip floor over to expose floor framing. Cut 1” foam insulation board to fit between floor joists. Use liquid nails to secure foam insulation board.
1-4. Now to build the sidewalls.
Cut ¾ plywood to the width of the doghouse. Measure along the left side, using the measurement determined in step 1 for the front of the doghouse and add 3 ½” to allow coverage of the floor 2x4. Make a mark on the measurement. Then, measure the left side using the measurement determined in step 1 for the back of the doghouse. Be sure to add 3 ½” for coverage of floor 2x4. Mark on the measurement. Next, take a straight edge, line it up to the two marks, and draw a line. Cut along line. This determined the angle of the sidewall. Trace the sidewall on the ¾" plywood and cut to make the other sidewall. This making both sidewalls the same.
1-5. Screw sidewall to the floor using 1 ¼ “ exterior screws.
Cut a 2x2 for each corner, the same angle as sidewall. Attach 2x2's to each corner. Cut front and back panels using the ¾” plywood. Attach only the back panels using 1 ¼" exterior screws. Now cut 2x2 for the top and bottom of the front and back panels. Attach to the back only, this will give you a place to screw the interior plywood to the walls.
1-6. Following the manufactures instructions for cutting hole for the dog door.
Screw front panel on doghouse and install dog door.
1-7. Cut 1” and ½ “ foam insulation board to fit inside walls, The 1” and ½ “ foam should be flush with the 2x2's on the interior.
Now cut ¾" plywood to fit all four of the interior walls. Screw the plywood to the 2x2's using 1 ¼" screws.
1-8. Build the roof.
Cut roof out of ¾ “plywood. Be sure to leave an overhang to keep rain away from walls. You will need to cut two the same size to insulate it. Cut 2x2 for edge, this will give a place to put the foam insulation and screw the two peaces together. A piano hinge can be installed on the back and roof to make the doghouse easier to clean.
1-9. Shingle the roof.
Apply water-resistant felt paper and drip edge. Now, nail asphalt shingles on making sure the shingles do not line up.
1-10. Drill a hole in the back of the doghouse in the corner, down near the floor.
This hole needs to be just big enough for the end of the cord to the heated mat to go through. Lay the mat down on the floor and put the cord through the wall. Be sure the cord is all the way outside to prevent dog from chewing it. There you have an insulated and heated doghouse.
Tips
Paint the plywood or install vinyl siding to protect the walls.
The electric heated mat can be replaced with a self-heated bed. They are made of special material that holds in your dogs own body heat.
Cover cord of the heated mat with PVC pipe to prevent the cord from being chewed
Warnings
Always use protective eye gear when using power tools.
Check local codes to make sure extension cords are allowed if the doghouse is not near enough to the electrical outlet.
Plug heated mat into a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). GFCI is a special electrical outlet that prevents electrical shocks and fires.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine the size of the doghouse:\\nMeasure your dogs length, then add 12” to determine the width of the doghouse. Add 18” to determine the length of the doghouse. Measure your dog's height, and then add 9” to determine the front of the doghouse and add 3” to determine the height of the back of the doghouse.\\n1-2. Once you have determined the size the doghouse, begin by cutting the floor joists using the 2x4's.\\nYou will need to cut two joists for the length of the doghouse and three for the width. Butt the length parts up to the width parts making a rectangle. Screw ends together using 3” exterior screws. Center the third width part in the rectangle and screw to secure it. Now you have the frame of the floor of the doghouse.\\n1-3. Cut ¾ plywood to fit over floor frame.\\nScrew down to floor frame using 1 ¼ exterior screws. Flip floor over to expose floor framing. Cut 1” foam insulation board to fit between floor joists. Use liquid nails to secure foam insulation board.\\n1-4. Now to build the sidewalls.\\nCut ¾ plywood to the width of the doghouse. Measure along the left side, using the measurement determined in step 1 for the front of the doghouse and add 3 ½” to allow coverage of the floor 2x4. Make a mark on the measurement. Then, measure the left side using the measurement determined in step 1 for the back of the doghouse. Be sure to add 3 ½” for coverage of floor 2x4. Mark on the measurement. Next, take a straight edge, line it up to the two marks, and draw a line. Cut along line. This determined the angle of the sidewall. Trace the sidewall on the ¾\\\" plywood and cut to make the other sidewall. This making both sidewalls the same.\\n1-5. Screw sidewall to the floor using 1 ¼ “ exterior screws.\\nCut a 2x2 for each corner, the same angle as sidewall. Attach 2x2's to each corner. Cut front and back panels using the ¾” plywood. Attach only the back panels using 1 ¼\\\" exterior screws. Now cut 2x2 for the top and bottom of the front and back panels. Attach to the back only, this will give you a place to screw the interior plywood to the walls.\\n1-6. Following the manufactures instructions for cutting hole for the dog door.\\nScrew front panel on doghouse and install dog door.\\n1-7. Cut 1” and ½ “ foam insulation board to fit inside walls, The 1” and ½ “ foam should be flush with the 2x2's on the interior.\\nNow cut ¾\\\" plywood to fit all four of the interior walls. Screw the plywood to the 2x2's using 1 ¼\\\" screws.\\n1-8. Build the roof.\\nCut roof out of ¾ “plywood. Be sure to leave an overhang to keep rain away from walls. You will need to cut two the same size to insulate it. Cut 2x2 for edge, this will give a place to put the foam insulation and screw the two peaces together. A piano hinge can be installed on the back and roof to make the doghouse easier to clean.\\n1-9. Shingle the roof.\\nApply water-resistant felt paper and drip edge. Now, nail asphalt shingles on making sure the shingles do not line up.\\n1-10. Drill a hole in the back of the doghouse in the corner, down near the floor.\\nThis hole needs to be just big enough for the end of the cord to the heated mat to go through. Lay the mat down on the floor and put the cord through the wall. Be sure the cord is all the way outside to prevent dog from chewing it. There you have an insulated and heated doghouse.\\nTips\\nPaint the plywood or install vinyl siding to protect the walls.\\nThe electric heated mat can be replaced with a self-heated bed. They are made of special material that holds in your dogs own body heat.\\nCover cord of the heated mat with PVC pipe to prevent the cord from being chewed\\nWarnings\\nAlways use protective eye gear when using power tools.\\nCheck local codes to make sure extension cords are allowed if the doghouse is not near enough to the electrical outlet.\\nPlug heated mat into a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). GFCI is a special electrical outlet that prevents electrical shocks and fires.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Did you know dogs could get hypothermia and frostbite in extreme weather? If your dog stays outside for long periods, then they need proper shelter.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of the doghouse:\", \"描述\": \"Measure your dogs length, then add 12” to determine the width of the doghouse. Add 18” to determine the length of the doghouse. Measure your dog's height, and then add 9” to determine the front of the doghouse and add 3” to determine the height of the back of the doghouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Once you have determined the size the doghouse, begin by cutting the floor joists using the 2x4's.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to cut two joists for the length of the doghouse and three for the width. Butt the length parts up to the width parts making a rectangle. Screw ends together using 3” exterior screws. Center the third width part in the rectangle and screw to secure it. Now you have the frame of the floor of the doghouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut ¾ plywood to fit over floor frame.\", \"描述\": \"Screw down to floor frame using 1 ¼ exterior screws. Flip floor over to expose floor framing. Cut 1” foam insulation board to fit between floor joists. Use liquid nails to secure foam insulation board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Now to build the sidewalls.\", \"描述\": \"Cut ¾ plywood to the width of the doghouse. Measure along the left side, using the measurement determined in step 1 for the front of the doghouse and add 3 ½” to allow coverage of the floor 2x4. Make a mark on the measurement. Then, measure the left side using the measurement determined in step 1 for the back of the doghouse. Be sure to add 3 ½” for coverage of floor 2x4. Mark on the measurement. Next, take a straight edge, line it up to the two marks, and draw a line. Cut along line. This determined the angle of the sidewall. Trace the sidewall on the ¾\\\" plywood and cut to make the other sidewall. This making both sidewalls the same.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw sidewall to the floor using 1 ¼ “ exterior screws.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a 2x2 for each corner, the same angle as sidewall. Attach 2x2's to each corner. Cut front and back panels using the ¾” plywood. Attach only the back panels using 1 ¼\\\" exterior screws. Now cut 2x2 for the top and bottom of the front and back panels. Attach to the back only, this will give you a place to screw the interior plywood to the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Following the manufactures instructions for cutting hole for the dog door.\", \"描述\": \"Screw front panel on doghouse and install dog door.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut 1” and ½ “ foam insulation board to fit inside walls, The 1” and ½ “ foam should be flush with the 2x2's on the interior.\", \"描述\": \"Now cut ¾\\\" plywood to fit all four of the interior walls. Screw the plywood to the 2x2's using 1 ¼\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Build the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Cut roof out of ¾ “plywood. Be sure to leave an overhang to keep rain away from walls. You will need to cut two the same size to insulate it. Cut 2x2 for edge, this will give a place to put the foam insulation and screw the two peaces together. A piano hinge can be installed on the back and roof to make the doghouse easier to clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Shingle the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Apply water-resistant felt paper and drip edge. Now, nail asphalt shingles on making sure the shingles do not line up.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Drill a hole in the back of the doghouse in the corner, down near the floor.\", \"描述\": \"This hole needs to be just big enough for the end of the cord to the heated mat to go through. Lay the mat down on the floor and put the cord through the wall. Be sure the cord is all the way outside to prevent dog from chewing it. There you have an insulated and heated doghouse.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Paint the plywood or install vinyl siding to protect the walls.\\n\", \"The electric heated mat can be replaced with a self-heated bed. They are made of special material that holds in your dogs own body heat.\\n\", \"Cover cord of the heated mat with PVC pipe to prevent the cord from being chewed\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use protective eye gear when using power tools.\\n\", \"Check local codes to make sure extension cords are allowed if the doghouse is not near enough to the electrical outlet.\\n\", \"Plug heated mat into a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). GFCI is a special electrical outlet that prevents electrical shocks and fires.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,666 |
How to Build an Obstacle Course
|
1. Planning the Obstacle Course
1-1. Find a good space for the obstacle course.
Before you can begin planning the details of your obstacle course you will need to find a good location to build it in. The obstacles you can later include may be dictated by the location you choose, depending largely on the amount of space available and the terrain itself. Look around for the best space available to you for your obstacle course.
Hills might be obstacles themselves and can add difficulty to your course.
Flat areas are a great location if you plan on building obstacles yourself that need to be level.
Bodies of water can be used as a fun swimming obstacle or something to jump over.
Make sure your space has enough room for any obstacles you want to include.
Check that the area is free from any hazards such as stones, hard surfaces, or anything else that could cause harm.
1-2. Think about who will be using the obstacle course.
Not all obstacle courses are created the same. You will need to build your course while keeping the participants in mind. Think about the age and physical fitness levels of those who will be using the course. Try to build a safe and challenging course based on this information.
Children's obstacle courses should be simple and safe, avoiding any hard, large, or dangerous obstacles.
Obstacle courses for adults can be more intensive and include more dangerous obstacles like swimming through a deep body of water.
1-3. Start planning out your obstacle course.
Once you know where you are going to build your course and who is going to use it you can begin to plan your course. These details will allow you to think about which obstacles you might want to include, the level of difficulty, and safety issues in mind as you plan your course.
Think about which obstacles would fit certain areas of your space better.
Consider how the obstacles will work sequentially.
Make sure obstacles are far enough apart so that they won't interfere with one another.
1-4. Consider legal concerns.
If your obstacle course is being planned for any kind of fund-raising, public, or any other community event you will need to plan and secure certain legal requirements. Building a simple obstacle course for your friends and family on the other hand will not require such steps. Make sure that your obstacle course is legally protected if need be before proceeding.
Simple backyard obstacle courses won't need any legal protection.
Larger, public and for-profit courses will need legal protection and other legal requirements.
Legal requirements will vary greatly depending on location and event. Talk with a lawyer to learn more.
2. Creating Obstacles
2-1. Think about instructions.
Part of an obstacle course is having rules. If participants don't understand how to proceed when tackling an obstacle they may do so in an unfair or unsafe way. Think about some of the basic types of obstacles and how you might instruct participants when they encounter them.
Having instructions can help prevent injury and make a fair obstacle course.
Include specific instructions on how an obstacle is to be completed.
For example, participants must go through a tunnel and not over it.
2-2. Include obstacles that test agility.
A common obstacle course element is to feature obstacles that test a person's agility. These obstacles will require a person to move quickly and accurately to successfully move past them. Create a well-rounded course by including obstacles that test agility.
Running around a series of cones, like a skier slaloming, can be a good test of agility.
Try tying small threads with bells attached to them just off the ground. Participants have to step around them without ringing the bells.
Hanging hula-hoops from a branch can create an obstacle that needs to be hopped or stepped through.
2-3. Create jumping obstacles.
Many obstacle courses contain obstacles that require the participants to leap over or around. Including jumping obstacles can be a great way to make your obstacle course a fun challenge. Review some of the following ideas to get you started when thinking about your jumping obstacles:
Try setting some targets, such as a hula hoop, on the ground to have people jump towards.
Consider a section of the course that has to be done on a pogo stick or bounce ball.
Create a high jump obstacle by placing something soft in the path like a hay bale.
Doing a series of frog jumps can be a good test of jumping abilities.
2-4. Build a balancing obstacle for your course.
Balancing obstacles will test the fine movements of participants as they attempt the obstacle. These obstacles are generally slower paced, requiring graceful and thoughtful motions from those undertaking the obstacle course.
A simple straight board can make a good balance beam.
You can require people to stand on one leg for a certain amount of time.
Participants might be required to balance a ball on their head for a few seconds.
2-5. Include teamwork in your obstacles.
Although many obstacle courses are competitions between individuals, you may want to include obstacles that require teamwork. Including teamwork can be a great way to get your participants working together to overcome the obstacle course.
Partners might have to throw and catch a ball a certain number of times.
The three-legged race is a good obstacle that requires teamwork (When doing a three-legged race, be sure that the pairs ankles are touching and the rope used is tight around their ankles. Also, ensure that they put their arms around each other's waist for good support. (This obstacle is best completed in boy/girl pairs!).
Having a “human wheelbarrow” section of the course can be a good way to include teamwork.
2-6. Create obstacles that test strength.
Beyond challenging participants agility, speed, and balance your obstacles should also test strength. Many strength-based obstacles will require that some amount of weight be moved or lifted either over a distance or a certain number of times.
You might have a section where people have to do a certain amount of push-ups before continuing.
Placing a simple pull up bar or arm hang bar can test upper body strength.
Running while carrying something heavy can be a test of the whole body's strength.
Crawling can engage the entire body.
3. Building The Obstacle Course
3-1. Consider inflatable obstacles.
A safe and easy option for creating an obstacle course is to make use of inflatable obstacles. Since these obstacles are inflatable they pose a low risk of injury and can add an appealing and lighthearted feeling to your obstacle course. Check your local businesses and services to see if any nearby vendors offer inflatable obstacles either for sale or rent.
Most inflatable obstacles are designed with children in mind.
Inflatable obstacles are easy to place, requiring little to no assembly.
3-2. Gather materials.
After you have your obstacles and their arrangement planned out you will need to acquire the materials that will be used to create the obstacles. The materials you need will vary greatly depending on what you have planned for your course. Look over some of the following ideas to get you started:
Hula hoops can make great markers for jumping or agility obstacles.
A simple board can make a quick balancing beam.
Hay bales or couch cushions can make a fun jumping obstacle.
Small sport cones can outline the obstacle course or be obstacles themselves.
3-3. Place them according to plan.
Having assembled your obstacles you can begin to place them according to your obstacle course layout plan. Place the obstacles where you planed them and evaluate their position before opening up our course to others.
You might find that a planned location for an obstacle doesn't work well. Don't be afraid to make changes.
Try doing the obstacle course yourself once you've built it to evaluate how well it works.
Once you've built and tested your course it's time to open it up to others.
Tips
Having a good plan in mind will help you find the best obstacles for your available space.
Try to include obstacles that test many different skills.
Keep your participants in mind and build the obstacle course to meet their skill level.
Warnings
Make sure your obstacles are as safe as can be.
Build your obstacle course to an age-appropriate level.
Always check that your obstacle course is as safe as possible before letting people run through it.[10]
X
Expert Source
Justin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant
Expert Interview. 15 September 2020.
If your course involves jumping or climbing, place padding underneath the obstacle to prevent fall injuries.[11]
X
Expert Source
Justin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant
Expert Interview. 15 September 2020.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Obstacle Course\\n1-1. Find a good space for the obstacle course.\\nBefore you can begin planning the details of your obstacle course you will need to find a good location to build it in. The obstacles you can later include may be dictated by the location you choose, depending largely on the amount of space available and the terrain itself. Look around for the best space available to you for your obstacle course.\\nHills might be obstacles themselves and can add difficulty to your course.\\nFlat areas are a great location if you plan on building obstacles yourself that need to be level.\\nBodies of water can be used as a fun swimming obstacle or something to jump over.\\nMake sure your space has enough room for any obstacles you want to include.\\nCheck that the area is free from any hazards such as stones, hard surfaces, or anything else that could cause harm.\\n1-2. Think about who will be using the obstacle course.\\nNot all obstacle courses are created the same. You will need to build your course while keeping the participants in mind. Think about the age and physical fitness levels of those who will be using the course. Try to build a safe and challenging course based on this information.\\nChildren's obstacle courses should be simple and safe, avoiding any hard, large, or dangerous obstacles.\\nObstacle courses for adults can be more intensive and include more dangerous obstacles like swimming through a deep body of water.\\n1-3. Start planning out your obstacle course.\\nOnce you know where you are going to build your course and who is going to use it you can begin to plan your course. These details will allow you to think about which obstacles you might want to include, the level of difficulty, and safety issues in mind as you plan your course.\\nThink about which obstacles would fit certain areas of your space better.\\nConsider how the obstacles will work sequentially.\\nMake sure obstacles are far enough apart so that they won't interfere with one another.\\n1-4. Consider legal concerns.\\nIf your obstacle course is being planned for any kind of fund-raising, public, or any other community event you will need to plan and secure certain legal requirements. Building a simple obstacle course for your friends and family on the other hand will not require such steps. Make sure that your obstacle course is legally protected if need be before proceeding.\\nSimple backyard obstacle courses won't need any legal protection.\\nLarger, public and for-profit courses will need legal protection and other legal requirements.\\nLegal requirements will vary greatly depending on location and event. Talk with a lawyer to learn more.\\n2. Creating Obstacles\\n2-1. Think about instructions.\\nPart of an obstacle course is having rules. If participants don't understand how to proceed when tackling an obstacle they may do so in an unfair or unsafe way. Think about some of the basic types of obstacles and how you might instruct participants when they encounter them.\\nHaving instructions can help prevent injury and make a fair obstacle course.\\nInclude specific instructions on how an obstacle is to be completed.\\nFor example, participants must go through a tunnel and not over it.\\n2-2. Include obstacles that test agility.\\nA common obstacle course element is to feature obstacles that test a person's agility. These obstacles will require a person to move quickly and accurately to successfully move past them. Create a well-rounded course by including obstacles that test agility. \\nRunning around a series of cones, like a skier slaloming, can be a good test of agility.\\nTry tying small threads with bells attached to them just off the ground. Participants have to step around them without ringing the bells.\\nHanging hula-hoops from a branch can create an obstacle that needs to be hopped or stepped through.\\n2-3. Create jumping obstacles.\\nMany obstacle courses contain obstacles that require the participants to leap over or around. Including jumping obstacles can be a great way to make your obstacle course a fun challenge. Review some of the following ideas to get you started when thinking about your jumping obstacles:\\nTry setting some targets, such as a hula hoop, on the ground to have people jump towards.\\nConsider a section of the course that has to be done on a pogo stick or bounce ball.\\nCreate a high jump obstacle by placing something soft in the path like a hay bale.\\nDoing a series of frog jumps can be a good test of jumping abilities.\\n2-4. Build a balancing obstacle for your course.\\nBalancing obstacles will test the fine movements of participants as they attempt the obstacle. These obstacles are generally slower paced, requiring graceful and thoughtful motions from those undertaking the obstacle course.\\nA simple straight board can make a good balance beam.\\nYou can require people to stand on one leg for a certain amount of time.\\nParticipants might be required to balance a ball on their head for a few seconds.\\n2-5. Include teamwork in your obstacles.\\nAlthough many obstacle courses are competitions between individuals, you may want to include obstacles that require teamwork. Including teamwork can be a great way to get your participants working together to overcome the obstacle course.\\nPartners might have to throw and catch a ball a certain number of times.\\nThe three-legged race is a good obstacle that requires teamwork (When doing a three-legged race, be sure that the pairs ankles are touching and the rope used is tight around their ankles. Also, ensure that they put their arms around each other's waist for good support. (This obstacle is best completed in boy/girl pairs!).\\nHaving a “human wheelbarrow” section of the course can be a good way to include teamwork.\\n2-6. Create obstacles that test strength.\\nBeyond challenging participants agility, speed, and balance your obstacles should also test strength. Many strength-based obstacles will require that some amount of weight be moved or lifted either over a distance or a certain number of times.\\nYou might have a section where people have to do a certain amount of push-ups before continuing.\\nPlacing a simple pull up bar or arm hang bar can test upper body strength.\\nRunning while carrying something heavy can be a test of the whole body's strength.\\nCrawling can engage the entire body.\\n3. Building The Obstacle Course\\n3-1. Consider inflatable obstacles.\\nA safe and easy option for creating an obstacle course is to make use of inflatable obstacles. Since these obstacles are inflatable they pose a low risk of injury and can add an appealing and lighthearted feeling to your obstacle course. Check your local businesses and services to see if any nearby vendors offer inflatable obstacles either for sale or rent.\\nMost inflatable obstacles are designed with children in mind.\\nInflatable obstacles are easy to place, requiring little to no assembly.\\n3-2. Gather materials.\\nAfter you have your obstacles and their arrangement planned out you will need to acquire the materials that will be used to create the obstacles. The materials you need will vary greatly depending on what you have planned for your course. Look over some of the following ideas to get you started:\\nHula hoops can make great markers for jumping or agility obstacles.\\nA simple board can make a quick balancing beam.\\nHay bales or couch cushions can make a fun jumping obstacle.\\nSmall sport cones can outline the obstacle course or be obstacles themselves.\\n3-3. Place them according to plan.\\nHaving assembled your obstacles you can begin to place them according to your obstacle course layout plan. Place the obstacles where you planed them and evaluate their position before opening up our course to others.\\nYou might find that a planned location for an obstacle doesn't work well. Don't be afraid to make changes.\\nTry doing the obstacle course yourself once you've built it to evaluate how well it works.\\nOnce you've built and tested your course it's time to open it up to others.\\nTips\\nHaving a good plan in mind will help you find the best obstacles for your available space.\\nTry to include obstacles that test many different skills.\\nKeep your participants in mind and build the obstacle course to meet their skill level.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure your obstacles are as safe as can be.\\nBuild your obstacle course to an age-appropriate level.\\nAlways check that your obstacle course is as safe as possible before letting people run through it.[10]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\nIf your course involves jumping or climbing, place padding underneath the obstacle to prevent fall injuries.[11]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Obstacle courses are a lot of fun to participate in and building them can be just as much fun. When building your obstacle course focus on keeping it balanced, including obstacles that present different challenges and that are also age appropriate. Whether creating an obstacle course for adults or children, having a good plan in place and knowing the basics can help you to create the best obstacle course possible.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Obstacle Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a good space for the obstacle course.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can begin planning the details of your obstacle course you will need to find a good location to build it in. The obstacles you can later include may be dictated by the location you choose, depending largely on the amount of space available and the terrain itself. Look around for the best space available to you for your obstacle course.\\nHills might be obstacles themselves and can add difficulty to your course.\\nFlat areas are a great location if you plan on building obstacles yourself that need to be level.\\nBodies of water can be used as a fun swimming obstacle or something to jump over.\\nMake sure your space has enough room for any obstacles you want to include.\\nCheck that the area is free from any hazards such as stones, hard surfaces, or anything else that could cause harm.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think about who will be using the obstacle course.\", \"描述\": \"Not all obstacle courses are created the same. You will need to build your course while keeping the participants in mind. Think about the age and physical fitness levels of those who will be using the course. Try to build a safe and challenging course based on this information.\\nChildren's obstacle courses should be simple and safe, avoiding any hard, large, or dangerous obstacles.\\nObstacle courses for adults can be more intensive and include more dangerous obstacles like swimming through a deep body of water.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start planning out your obstacle course.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know where you are going to build your course and who is going to use it you can begin to plan your course. These details will allow you to think about which obstacles you might want to include, the level of difficulty, and safety issues in mind as you plan your course.\\nThink about which obstacles would fit certain areas of your space better.\\nConsider how the obstacles will work sequentially.\\nMake sure obstacles are far enough apart so that they won't interfere with one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider legal concerns.\", \"描述\": \"If your obstacle course is being planned for any kind of fund-raising, public, or any other community event you will need to plan and secure certain legal requirements. Building a simple obstacle course for your friends and family on the other hand will not require such steps. Make sure that your obstacle course is legally protected if need be before proceeding.\\nSimple backyard obstacle courses won't need any legal protection.\\nLarger, public and for-profit courses will need legal protection and other legal requirements.\\nLegal requirements will vary greatly depending on location and event. Talk with a lawyer to learn more.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating Obstacles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Think about instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Part of an obstacle course is having rules. If participants don't understand how to proceed when tackling an obstacle they may do so in an unfair or unsafe way. Think about some of the basic types of obstacles and how you might instruct participants when they encounter them.\\nHaving instructions can help prevent injury and make a fair obstacle course.\\nInclude specific instructions on how an obstacle is to be completed.\\nFor example, participants must go through a tunnel and not over it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Include obstacles that test agility.\", \"描述\": \"A common obstacle course element is to feature obstacles that test a person's agility. These obstacles will require a person to move quickly and accurately to successfully move past them. Create a well-rounded course by including obstacles that test agility. \\nRunning around a series of cones, like a skier slaloming, can be a good test of agility.\\nTry tying small threads with bells attached to them just off the ground. Participants have to step around them without ringing the bells.\\nHanging hula-hoops from a branch can create an obstacle that needs to be hopped or stepped through.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create jumping obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Many obstacle courses contain obstacles that require the participants to leap over or around. Including jumping obstacles can be a great way to make your obstacle course a fun challenge. Review some of the following ideas to get you started when thinking about your jumping obstacles:\\nTry setting some targets, such as a hula hoop, on the ground to have people jump towards.\\nConsider a section of the course that has to be done on a pogo stick or bounce ball.\\nCreate a high jump obstacle by placing something soft in the path like a hay bale.\\nDoing a series of frog jumps can be a good test of jumping abilities.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a balancing obstacle for your course.\", \"描述\": \"Balancing obstacles will test the fine movements of participants as they attempt the obstacle. These obstacles are generally slower paced, requiring graceful and thoughtful motions from those undertaking the obstacle course.\\nA simple straight board can make a good balance beam.\\nYou can require people to stand on one leg for a certain amount of time.\\nParticipants might be required to balance a ball on their head for a few seconds.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Include teamwork in your obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Although many obstacle courses are competitions between individuals, you may want to include obstacles that require teamwork. Including teamwork can be a great way to get your participants working together to overcome the obstacle course.\\nPartners might have to throw and catch a ball a certain number of times.\\nThe three-legged race is a good obstacle that requires teamwork (When doing a three-legged race, be sure that the pairs ankles are touching and the rope used is tight around their ankles. Also, ensure that they put their arms around each other's waist for good support. (This obstacle is best completed in boy/girl pairs!).\\nHaving a “human wheelbarrow” section of the course can be a good way to include teamwork.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create obstacles that test strength.\", \"描述\": \"Beyond challenging participants agility, speed, and balance your obstacles should also test strength. Many strength-based obstacles will require that some amount of weight be moved or lifted either over a distance or a certain number of times.\\nYou might have a section where people have to do a certain amount of push-ups before continuing.\\nPlacing a simple pull up bar or arm hang bar can test upper body strength.\\nRunning while carrying something heavy can be a test of the whole body's strength.\\nCrawling can engage the entire body.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building The Obstacle Course\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider inflatable obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"A safe and easy option for creating an obstacle course is to make use of inflatable obstacles. Since these obstacles are inflatable they pose a low risk of injury and can add an appealing and lighthearted feeling to your obstacle course. Check your local businesses and services to see if any nearby vendors offer inflatable obstacles either for sale or rent.\\nMost inflatable obstacles are designed with children in mind.\\nInflatable obstacles are easy to place, requiring little to no assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather materials.\", \"描述\": \"After you have your obstacles and their arrangement planned out you will need to acquire the materials that will be used to create the obstacles. The materials you need will vary greatly depending on what you have planned for your course. Look over some of the following ideas to get you started:\\nHula hoops can make great markers for jumping or agility obstacles.\\nA simple board can make a quick balancing beam.\\nHay bales or couch cushions can make a fun jumping obstacle.\\nSmall sport cones can outline the obstacle course or be obstacles themselves.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place them according to plan.\", \"描述\": \"Having assembled your obstacles you can begin to place them according to your obstacle course layout plan. Place the obstacles where you planed them and evaluate their position before opening up our course to others.\\nYou might find that a planned location for an obstacle doesn't work well. Don't be afraid to make changes.\\nTry doing the obstacle course yourself once you've built it to evaluate how well it works.\\nOnce you've built and tested your course it's time to open it up to others.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Having a good plan in mind will help you find the best obstacles for your available space.\\n\", \"Try to include obstacles that test many different skills.\\n\", \"Keep your participants in mind and build the obstacle course to meet their skill level.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure your obstacles are as safe as can be.\\n\", \"Build your obstacle course to an age-appropriate level.\\n\", \"Always check that your obstacle course is as safe as possible before letting people run through it.[10]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\n\", \"If your course involves jumping or climbing, place padding underneath the obstacle to prevent fall injuries.[11]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJustin ConwayAmerican Ninja Warrior Competitor & Consultant\\nExpert Interview. 15 September 2020.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,667 |
How to Build an Outdoor Barbeque
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1. Preparing the Footer
1-1. Gather your materials.
If you’ve got a little bit of masonry experience, this is a project you should be able to handle. Still, you’ll need to make a run to the hardware store to get:
Fiber-reinforced concrete mix
Mortar mix
A trowel
A hammer
Bricks (including some solid bricks)
A mason’s line or level
Chalk
Gravel mix
4 inches (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar
A metal grill surface
1-2. Dig out the grill area.
Use a spade and start digging in your grill area. You’ll want to create a hole that is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) and 6 inches (150 mm) deep. Pick a spot that’s away from your house and anything else that could easily catch fire.
Keeping the grill area away from your house will also help prevent smoke from blowing in and bothering anyone.
1-3. Pour concrete into the hole to create the footer.
Prepare the concrete mix according to the package instructions. Pour it directly into the hole you dug out for the grill area. If you use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, it will be just fine to pour the concrete on bare dirt.
Let the concrete dry thoroughly before continuing. This will take 3 to 5 days, typically.
1-4. Draw an outline of the barbecue on the concrete.
Grab your chalk and draw a rectangular outline on the concrete footer. You will need to leave at least 2 inches (51 mm) on all sides for safety reasons. Leave a bit more space if you want to make the barbecue area smaller than this.
The interior of the grill will need to be just a little bigger than the grill surface that you bought.
You can used stretched out mason’s line or a yardstick to make sure the lines you draw are straight.
1-5. Lay some bricks for a dry fit.
Lay two courses of bricks just inside the outline you drew, without using any mortar. Leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) between each brick to account for the mortar that will be added later. Check to make sure that everything looks straight.
You can use concrete blocks instead of bricks, if you wish. You will probably lay fewer courses, since standard blocks are taller than bricks.
2. Laying the Courses
2-1. Prepare your mortar mix.
You’ll need to have this ready to start laying bricks. Follow the instructions on the mix package, and keep the prepared mortar near your work area so it’s easy to reach.
Use bonding cement (prepared to package instructions) rather than mortar if you are making a grill from concrete blocks.
2-2. Start laying bricks at the corners.
Put a line of mortar down just inside the outline on the footer, then lay down some bricks at all the the corners. Don’t forget to put 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick. Build the corners up four courses high.
To build up each course, smear a layer of mortar (about the thickness of your finger) on top of the bricks on the ground. Lay new bricks on top of the mortar so that they overlap the old ones and create an interlocking pattern. Repeat.
If you are using concrete blocks, you only need to build up two or three courses at this point.
2-3. Fill in the rows.
Work from corner to corner. Make sure to put some mortar down on the top of each course of bricks before laying the next one down. Continue to leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick as well. You’ll now have a rectangle that is four full courses high.
Wait for the mortar to dry before moving on to the next steps.
2-4. Spread a layer of gravel inside the bricks.
You can use any ordinary gravel mix that’s available. The type of gravel is not as important as making sure that the footer on the interior of the brick square you have created is covered by a thin layer of it.
2-5. Pour a layer of concrete on top of the gravel.
Prepare more concrete mix. Lay a 4 inches (100 mm) slab on top of the gravel you poured inside the brick rectangle. This creates a barrier of insulation between the fire and ground.
3. Adding the Grill Surface
3-1. Continue building up bricks on three sides.
After you have the barbecue base, you’ll need to build it up higher to provide a place for the charcoal and grill surface to rest. Continue laying courses of bricks, but only on three sides. That way, you’ll be able to access the charcoal and grill surface from the open front side.
3-2. Insert rebar to support the charcoal pan.
When you reach about four courses above the base, insert 4 inch (10.2 cm) (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar into the mortar between one course of bricks and the next. The rebar should jut out just a bit into the interior, open space of the grill area.
Use a level to check and make sure each course of bricks is level as you lay it.
Alternatively, you can lay one course of bricks sideways to provide a support surface for the charcoal pan.
3-3. Add supports for the grill surface.
Lay a couple more courses of bricks, and then insert more short pieces of rebar (or bricks laid sideways). This will provide a nice, sturdy support for the grill surface, slightly above the charcoal pan.
3-4. Top off the grill walls.
Add at least a couple more courses to your grill walls. When it has reached a height that you like, place solid bricks on the top row. This will give the grill a finished look.
3-5. Surround the grill with more bricks (optional).
Once you’ve laid the basic grill, you can lay another row of bricks surrounding the sides and back, but not the front. This is optional, but some people like the look of thicker sides on the grill. You may also find it provides some insulation between the heat of the charcoal and the outside of the grill.
If you decide to add this layer, just start laying courses of bricks directly around the perimeter of the grill. Keep building up courses of bricks several rows above the top of the center grill area.
Make sure to leave the front side open.
3-6. Set the grill surface and charcoal pan in place.
Lay the metal charcoal pan down on top of the lower set of rebar supports, and the grill surface on the upper ones.They should fit securely inside the grill, but you can remove them later if you need to clean it. Now you’re ready to fire up your very own grill!
Make sure to use only food-grade metal for your grill surface and charcoal pan. Do not use any metal that has been painted or in contact with petroleum or any chemicals.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Footer\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nIf you’ve got a little bit of masonry experience, this is a project you should be able to handle. Still, you’ll need to make a run to the hardware store to get:\\nFiber-reinforced concrete mix\\nMortar mix\\nA trowel\\nA hammer\\nBricks (including some solid bricks)\\nA mason’s line or level\\nChalk\\nGravel mix\\n4 inches (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar\\nA metal grill surface\\n1-2. Dig out the grill area.\\nUse a spade and start digging in your grill area. You’ll want to create a hole that is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) and 6 inches (150 mm) deep. Pick a spot that’s away from your house and anything else that could easily catch fire.\\nKeeping the grill area away from your house will also help prevent smoke from blowing in and bothering anyone.\\n1-3. Pour concrete into the hole to create the footer.\\nPrepare the concrete mix according to the package instructions. Pour it directly into the hole you dug out for the grill area. If you use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, it will be just fine to pour the concrete on bare dirt.\\nLet the concrete dry thoroughly before continuing. This will take 3 to 5 days, typically.\\n1-4. Draw an outline of the barbecue on the concrete.\\nGrab your chalk and draw a rectangular outline on the concrete footer. You will need to leave at least 2 inches (51 mm) on all sides for safety reasons. Leave a bit more space if you want to make the barbecue area smaller than this.\\nThe interior of the grill will need to be just a little bigger than the grill surface that you bought.\\nYou can used stretched out mason’s line or a yardstick to make sure the lines you draw are straight.\\n1-5. Lay some bricks for a dry fit.\\nLay two courses of bricks just inside the outline you drew, without using any mortar. Leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) between each brick to account for the mortar that will be added later. Check to make sure that everything looks straight.\\nYou can use concrete blocks instead of bricks, if you wish. You will probably lay fewer courses, since standard blocks are taller than bricks.\\n2. Laying the Courses\\n2-1. Prepare your mortar mix.\\nYou’ll need to have this ready to start laying bricks. Follow the instructions on the mix package, and keep the prepared mortar near your work area so it’s easy to reach.\\nUse bonding cement (prepared to package instructions) rather than mortar if you are making a grill from concrete blocks.\\n2-2. Start laying bricks at the corners.\\nPut a line of mortar down just inside the outline on the footer, then lay down some bricks at all the the corners. Don’t forget to put 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick. Build the corners up four courses high.\\nTo build up each course, smear a layer of mortar (about the thickness of your finger) on top of the bricks on the ground. Lay new bricks on top of the mortar so that they overlap the old ones and create an interlocking pattern. Repeat.\\nIf you are using concrete blocks, you only need to build up two or three courses at this point.\\n2-3. Fill in the rows.\\nWork from corner to corner. Make sure to put some mortar down on the top of each course of bricks before laying the next one down. Continue to leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick as well. You’ll now have a rectangle that is four full courses high.\\nWait for the mortar to dry before moving on to the next steps.\\n2-4. Spread a layer of gravel inside the bricks.\\nYou can use any ordinary gravel mix that’s available. The type of gravel is not as important as making sure that the footer on the interior of the brick square you have created is covered by a thin layer of it.\\n2-5. Pour a layer of concrete on top of the gravel.\\nPrepare more concrete mix. Lay a 4 inches (100 mm) slab on top of the gravel you poured inside the brick rectangle. This creates a barrier of insulation between the fire and ground.\\n3. Adding the Grill Surface\\n3-1. Continue building up bricks on three sides.\\nAfter you have the barbecue base, you’ll need to build it up higher to provide a place for the charcoal and grill surface to rest. Continue laying courses of bricks, but only on three sides. That way, you’ll be able to access the charcoal and grill surface from the open front side.\\n3-2. Insert rebar to support the charcoal pan.\\nWhen you reach about four courses above the base, insert 4 inch (10.2 cm) (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar into the mortar between one course of bricks and the next. The rebar should jut out just a bit into the interior, open space of the grill area.\\nUse a level to check and make sure each course of bricks is level as you lay it.\\nAlternatively, you can lay one course of bricks sideways to provide a support surface for the charcoal pan.\\n3-3. Add supports for the grill surface.\\nLay a couple more courses of bricks, and then insert more short pieces of rebar (or bricks laid sideways). This will provide a nice, sturdy support for the grill surface, slightly above the charcoal pan.\\n3-4. Top off the grill walls.\\nAdd at least a couple more courses to your grill walls. When it has reached a height that you like, place solid bricks on the top row. This will give the grill a finished look.\\n3-5. Surround the grill with more bricks (optional).\\nOnce you’ve laid the basic grill, you can lay another row of bricks surrounding the sides and back, but not the front. This is optional, but some people like the look of thicker sides on the grill. You may also find it provides some insulation between the heat of the charcoal and the outside of the grill.\\nIf you decide to add this layer, just start laying courses of bricks directly around the perimeter of the grill. Keep building up courses of bricks several rows above the top of the center grill area.\\nMake sure to leave the front side open.\\n3-6. Set the grill surface and charcoal pan in place.\\nLay the metal charcoal pan down on top of the lower set of rebar supports, and the grill surface on the upper ones.They should fit securely inside the grill, but you can remove them later if you need to clean it. Now you’re ready to fire up your very own grill!\\nMake sure to use only food-grade metal for your grill surface and charcoal pan. Do not use any metal that has been painted or in contact with petroleum or any chemicals.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"An outdoor barbecue is a great DIY project that anyone with a little masonry experience can handle. To build a simple but effective brick grill, choose a safe location and start by laying a concrete footer. Build up the courses of bricks layer by layer. When you’ve reached a height that’s comfortable for grilling, you can insert some supports for the grill surface. Top it off with some solid bricks, lay the grill surface down, and you’re ready to fire it up!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Footer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"If you’ve got a little bit of masonry experience, this is a project you should be able to handle. Still, you’ll need to make a run to the hardware store to get:\\nFiber-reinforced concrete mix\\nMortar mix\\nA trowel\\nA hammer\\nBricks (including some solid bricks)\\nA mason’s line or level\\nChalk\\nGravel mix\\n4 inches (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar\\nA metal grill surface\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig out the grill area.\", \"描述\": \"Use a spade and start digging in your grill area. You’ll want to create a hole that is 4 feet (1.2 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m) and 6 inches (150 mm) deep. Pick a spot that’s away from your house and anything else that could easily catch fire.\\nKeeping the grill area away from your house will also help prevent smoke from blowing in and bothering anyone.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour concrete into the hole to create the footer.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare the concrete mix according to the package instructions. Pour it directly into the hole you dug out for the grill area. If you use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, it will be just fine to pour the concrete on bare dirt.\\nLet the concrete dry thoroughly before continuing. This will take 3 to 5 days, typically.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Draw an outline of the barbecue on the concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Grab your chalk and draw a rectangular outline on the concrete footer. You will need to leave at least 2 inches (51 mm) on all sides for safety reasons. Leave a bit more space if you want to make the barbecue area smaller than this.\\nThe interior of the grill will need to be just a little bigger than the grill surface that you bought.\\nYou can used stretched out mason’s line or a yardstick to make sure the lines you draw are straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lay some bricks for a dry fit.\", \"描述\": \"Lay two courses of bricks just inside the outline you drew, without using any mortar. Leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) between each brick to account for the mortar that will be added later. Check to make sure that everything looks straight.\\nYou can use concrete blocks instead of bricks, if you wish. You will probably lay fewer courses, since standard blocks are taller than bricks.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laying the Courses\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare your mortar mix.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to have this ready to start laying bricks. Follow the instructions on the mix package, and keep the prepared mortar near your work area so it’s easy to reach.\\nUse bonding cement (prepared to package instructions) rather than mortar if you are making a grill from concrete blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start laying bricks at the corners.\", \"描述\": \"Put a line of mortar down just inside the outline on the footer, then lay down some bricks at all the the corners. Don’t forget to put 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick. Build the corners up four courses high.\\nTo build up each course, smear a layer of mortar (about the thickness of your finger) on top of the bricks on the ground. Lay new bricks on top of the mortar so that they overlap the old ones and create an interlocking pattern. Repeat.\\nIf you are using concrete blocks, you only need to build up two or three courses at this point.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill in the rows.\", \"描述\": \"Work from corner to corner. Make sure to put some mortar down on the top of each course of bricks before laying the next one down. Continue to leave 0.5 inches (13 mm) of mortar between each brick as well. You’ll now have a rectangle that is four full courses high.\\nWait for the mortar to dry before moving on to the next steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spread a layer of gravel inside the bricks.\", \"描述\": \"You can use any ordinary gravel mix that’s available. The type of gravel is not as important as making sure that the footer on the interior of the brick square you have created is covered by a thin layer of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pour a layer of concrete on top of the gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Prepare more concrete mix. Lay a 4 inches (100 mm) slab on top of the gravel you poured inside the brick rectangle. This creates a barrier of insulation between the fire and ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Grill Surface\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Continue building up bricks on three sides.\", \"描述\": \"After you have the barbecue base, you’ll need to build it up higher to provide a place for the charcoal and grill surface to rest. Continue laying courses of bricks, but only on three sides. That way, you’ll be able to access the charcoal and grill surface from the open front side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert rebar to support the charcoal pan.\", \"描述\": \"When you reach about four courses above the base, insert 4 inch (10.2 cm) (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar into the mortar between one course of bricks and the next. The rebar should jut out just a bit into the interior, open space of the grill area.\\nUse a level to check and make sure each course of bricks is level as you lay it.\\nAlternatively, you can lay one course of bricks sideways to provide a support surface for the charcoal pan.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add supports for the grill surface.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a couple more courses of bricks, and then insert more short pieces of rebar (or bricks laid sideways). This will provide a nice, sturdy support for the grill surface, slightly above the charcoal pan.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Top off the grill walls.\", \"描述\": \"Add at least a couple more courses to your grill walls. When it has reached a height that you like, place solid bricks on the top row. This will give the grill a finished look.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Surround the grill with more bricks (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve laid the basic grill, you can lay another row of bricks surrounding the sides and back, but not the front. This is optional, but some people like the look of thicker sides on the grill. You may also find it provides some insulation between the heat of the charcoal and the outside of the grill.\\nIf you decide to add this layer, just start laying courses of bricks directly around the perimeter of the grill. Keep building up courses of bricks several rows above the top of the center grill area.\\nMake sure to leave the front side open.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Set the grill surface and charcoal pan in place.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the metal charcoal pan down on top of the lower set of rebar supports, and the grill surface on the upper ones.They should fit securely inside the grill, but you can remove them later if you need to clean it. Now you’re ready to fire up your very own grill!\\nMake sure to use only food-grade metal for your grill surface and charcoal pan. Do not use any metal that has been painted or in contact with petroleum or any chemicals.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,668 |
How to Build an Outdoor Dog Potty Area on Concrete in 12 Easy Steps
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1. Choosing and Measuring the Location
1-1. Determine where you’ll build your pup’s potty area.
If your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way. If it’s hot where you live, placing the potty area in a shaded area may be ideal. If your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way.
Does your pup like to “hide” when they go to the bathroom? If so, set your potty area in the most secluded part of your yard.
If your dog has a portion of the concrete patio/yard where they normally use the bathroom, build your potty area on top of it.
Keep the slope and drainage capacity of the area in mind. If a patch of concrete is slanted towards your home, you may end up with urine streams leading towards your back door.
1-2. Calculate how big you want to make the potty area.
You likely want to build a potty area that’s at least 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) so your dog has plenty of space to sniff and poke around, but you can make it any size you’d like. If you have a larger breed, you may want to make it twice (or even three times) as big.
You don’t have to build a square-shaped potty area. In fact, if you’ve got a deep, but not particularly wide yard, this may be ideal. You can build a 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) potty area, for example.
1-3. Mark the dimensions of the potty area with chalk to size your frame.
Use your measuring tape to calculate your dimensions. If you want to be super precise (you don’t have to be), get a chalk line and enlist a friend to hold one end for you. Pull the string taut before snapping it into the ground to mark each line. Alternatively, draw your box out freehand with a piece of chalk.
You can use a straight edge, like a spirit level or plank of wood, to mark straight lines if you’re drawing freehand.
If you’re working by yourself, use small objects (like a can, or pot) to mark the four corners of your potty area and keep track of your dimensions.
2. Constructing the Frame
2-1. Cut your wood boards if you didn’t get them cut to size.
Purchase 1 by 4 in (25 by 102 mm) treated lumber boards. You can get them pre-cut at the building supply store, or cut them to size yourself using a circular saw or using a jigsaw. Set your boards on sawhorses, mark your cuts with a pencil, and put on protective eyewear before carefully making your cuts.
For a simpler solution with a more industrial look, you can always stack cinderblocks instead of cutting wood boards.
If you don’t want to use lumber, you can use rubber landscape edging. Get the firmer version of landscape edging since you can’t bury the softer stuff in grass with a concrete backyard.
Any kind of wood should work for this so long as it’s weather or pressure treated. Just stay away from plywood—it tends to absorb moisture and erode very quickly.
2-2. Secure your boards together using a drill and wood screws.
Any kind of wood screws should work so long as they’re long enough to drive through the thinner side of your boards (2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws will work fine). Set the thin end of your longest board inside of the adjacent board at a 90-degree angle. Drive at least 2 screws through the adjacent board and into the center of the longer board to secure them together.
Repeat this process for the remaining sides of your frame to create your box-shaped frame.
Don’t worry about your frame being the world’s strongest, most reinforced frame of all-time. It’s not going to be holding so much weight that it’ll fall apart, and it’d be super easy to repair if it did.
2-3. Set your frame down and reinforce it with hinges if necessary.
Once you’ve constructed the frame, place it over the designated area where you drew your chalk. If it feels a little wobbly and you want to strengthen the frame, pick up four pieces of flashing and screw them into the walls of the lumber on the inside of the frame. This will help the frame keep its shape over time.
It might look a little “meh” right now, but once you fill it in, it’ll look a lot better. You can also line the exterior of the frame with decorative rocks when you’re done to dress it up!
3. Filling the Potty Area
3-1. Lay landscape fabric down if you have cracks in your concrete.
Landscape fabric is typically laid down in raised beds to prevent weeds from growing through raised beds. If you have cracks in your concrete—even a few little ones—lay this fabric down to keep your potty area weed-free. Purchase a sheet of landscape fabric, cut it to size with scissors, and lay it down before filling the potty area in.
This popular landscape fabric from Colorful Hope should be more than enough.
If you don’t have cracks in the concrete—or you’re simply not worried about weeds—go ahead and skip this step.
3-2. Fill the potty area 1/3 of the way with a base layer of pea gravel.
Pour the gravel inside of the frame and spread it out by hand so that the bottom 1/3 of the potty area is filled. The gravel will provide drainage for your pup’s urine, to keep it from building up in the potty area over time.
To determine how much pea gravel you need, multiply the length of the frame by the width to find the area. For pea gravel, 0.5 cubic feet (0.014 m) will cover 6 square feet (0.56 m). For most potty areas, you should need two bags.
You can find a wide range of pea gravel online, or pick some up from a gardening or building supply store.
3-3. Place a sheet of peg board on top of the pea gravel (optional).
Pick up a cheap sheet of wood peg board from a home improvement store and set it on top of the pea gravel. This will keep the pea gravel from shifting around over time. The holes in the peg board will also allow for plenty of drainage.
You can totally skip this part if you’d like. It might mean the top soil you set down shifts around more often. It’s probably a good idea if you’ve got a bigger dog or a digging enthusiast, though.
If you can’t find a peg board that fills out the frame, you can cut multiple pieces to fit your frame using a circular saw or jigsaw. Alternatively, you can buy smaller panels and lay them out next to one another.
3-4. Lay landscape fabric over the peg board and/or pea gravel.
An additional layer of landscape fabric will keep your top soil and pea gravel separated here. This way, the urine can drain through below the soil and air out. Cut the fabric with scissors to match the size of the potty area and lay it on top of the gravel.
Don’t worry about it looking pretty—it’s going to get covered up.
You can line the edges with small, heavy stones if you’re worried about your dog digging down through the top soil and tearing up the fabric.
3-5. Fill another 1/3 of the potty area with potting soil.
Swing by your local gardening store and pick up some basic potting soil. The cheap stuff will work just fine, so don’t break the bank here. Fill in the next 1/3 of your potty area with soil and spread it around with a trowel (or by hand if you don’t mind getting dirty).
3-6. Lay fresh sod or artificial turf over the potting soil.
You have some freedom at this point. For the natural look, purchase a roll or two of fresh sod from your local gardening store. Lay it down on top of the soil. Alternatively, you can buy artificial turf and lay that on top of the soil.
You can cut sod and artificial turf with a utility knife if you have any left over.
There is special artificial grass designed specifically for this! MTBRO’s artificial dog grass is an especially popular brand if you want high-quality material.
If your dog tends to prefer gravel or sand, lay that down instead of soil or turf. You can even do a “half and half” where 1/2 of the bed is soil and the other 1/2 is gravel or stone.
If you go for fresh sod, water it as soon as you’re done laying it down to help it settle.
Tips
It may take time for your pup to get used to using the potty area, so don’t rush it. Introduce it when you know they need to go, and give them treats after they use it to encourage them to continue doing so.
It’s fine to use the potty area periodically when your pup needs a quick break, but you should still take them on regular walks!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:22",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing and Measuring the Location\\n1-1. Determine where you’ll build your pup’s potty area.\\nIf your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way. If it’s hot where you live, placing the potty area in a shaded area may be ideal. If your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way.\\nDoes your pup like to “hide” when they go to the bathroom? If so, set your potty area in the most secluded part of your yard.\\nIf your dog has a portion of the concrete patio/yard where they normally use the bathroom, build your potty area on top of it.\\nKeep the slope and drainage capacity of the area in mind. If a patch of concrete is slanted towards your home, you may end up with urine streams leading towards your back door.\\n1-2. Calculate how big you want to make the potty area.\\nYou likely want to build a potty area that’s at least 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) so your dog has plenty of space to sniff and poke around, but you can make it any size you’d like. If you have a larger breed, you may want to make it twice (or even three times) as big.\\nYou don’t have to build a square-shaped potty area. In fact, if you’ve got a deep, but not particularly wide yard, this may be ideal. You can build a 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) potty area, for example.\\n1-3. Mark the dimensions of the potty area with chalk to size your frame.\\nUse your measuring tape to calculate your dimensions. If you want to be super precise (you don’t have to be), get a chalk line and enlist a friend to hold one end for you. Pull the string taut before snapping it into the ground to mark each line. Alternatively, draw your box out freehand with a piece of chalk.\\nYou can use a straight edge, like a spirit level or plank of wood, to mark straight lines if you’re drawing freehand.\\nIf you’re working by yourself, use small objects (like a can, or pot) to mark the four corners of your potty area and keep track of your dimensions.\\n2. Constructing the Frame\\n2-1. Cut your wood boards if you didn’t get them cut to size.\\nPurchase 1 by 4 in (25 by 102 mm) treated lumber boards. You can get them pre-cut at the building supply store, or cut them to size yourself using a circular saw or using a jigsaw. Set your boards on sawhorses, mark your cuts with a pencil, and put on protective eyewear before carefully making your cuts.\\nFor a simpler solution with a more industrial look, you can always stack cinderblocks instead of cutting wood boards.\\nIf you don’t want to use lumber, you can use rubber landscape edging. Get the firmer version of landscape edging since you can’t bury the softer stuff in grass with a concrete backyard.\\nAny kind of wood should work for this so long as it’s weather or pressure treated. Just stay away from plywood—it tends to absorb moisture and erode very quickly.\\n2-2. Secure your boards together using a drill and wood screws.\\nAny kind of wood screws should work so long as they’re long enough to drive through the thinner side of your boards (2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws will work fine). Set the thin end of your longest board inside of the adjacent board at a 90-degree angle. Drive at least 2 screws through the adjacent board and into the center of the longer board to secure them together.\\nRepeat this process for the remaining sides of your frame to create your box-shaped frame.\\nDon’t worry about your frame being the world’s strongest, most reinforced frame of all-time. It’s not going to be holding so much weight that it’ll fall apart, and it’d be super easy to repair if it did.\\n2-3. Set your frame down and reinforce it with hinges if necessary.\\nOnce you’ve constructed the frame, place it over the designated area where you drew your chalk. If it feels a little wobbly and you want to strengthen the frame, pick up four pieces of flashing and screw them into the walls of the lumber on the inside of the frame. This will help the frame keep its shape over time.\\nIt might look a little “meh” right now, but once you fill it in, it’ll look a lot better. You can also line the exterior of the frame with decorative rocks when you’re done to dress it up!\\n3. Filling the Potty Area\\n3-1. Lay landscape fabric down if you have cracks in your concrete.\\nLandscape fabric is typically laid down in raised beds to prevent weeds from growing through raised beds. If you have cracks in your concrete—even a few little ones—lay this fabric down to keep your potty area weed-free. Purchase a sheet of landscape fabric, cut it to size with scissors, and lay it down before filling the potty area in.\\nThis popular landscape fabric from Colorful Hope should be more than enough.\\nIf you don’t have cracks in the concrete—or you’re simply not worried about weeds—go ahead and skip this step.\\n3-2. Fill the potty area 1/3 of the way with a base layer of pea gravel.\\nPour the gravel inside of the frame and spread it out by hand so that the bottom 1/3 of the potty area is filled. The gravel will provide drainage for your pup’s urine, to keep it from building up in the potty area over time.\\nTo determine how much pea gravel you need, multiply the length of the frame by the width to find the area. For pea gravel, 0.5 cubic feet (0.014 m) will cover 6 square feet (0.56 m). For most potty areas, you should need two bags.\\nYou can find a wide range of pea gravel online, or pick some up from a gardening or building supply store.\\n3-3. Place a sheet of peg board on top of the pea gravel (optional).\\nPick up a cheap sheet of wood peg board from a home improvement store and set it on top of the pea gravel. This will keep the pea gravel from shifting around over time. The holes in the peg board will also allow for plenty of drainage.\\nYou can totally skip this part if you’d like. It might mean the top soil you set down shifts around more often. It’s probably a good idea if you’ve got a bigger dog or a digging enthusiast, though.\\nIf you can’t find a peg board that fills out the frame, you can cut multiple pieces to fit your frame using a circular saw or jigsaw. Alternatively, you can buy smaller panels and lay them out next to one another.\\n3-4. Lay landscape fabric over the peg board and/or pea gravel.\\nAn additional layer of landscape fabric will keep your top soil and pea gravel separated here. This way, the urine can drain through below the soil and air out. Cut the fabric with scissors to match the size of the potty area and lay it on top of the gravel.\\nDon’t worry about it looking pretty—it’s going to get covered up.\\nYou can line the edges with small, heavy stones if you’re worried about your dog digging down through the top soil and tearing up the fabric.\\n3-5. Fill another 1/3 of the potty area with potting soil.\\nSwing by your local gardening store and pick up some basic potting soil. The cheap stuff will work just fine, so don’t break the bank here. Fill in the next 1/3 of your potty area with soil and spread it around with a trowel (or by hand if you don’t mind getting dirty).\\n3-6. Lay fresh sod or artificial turf over the potting soil.\\nYou have some freedom at this point. For the natural look, purchase a roll or two of fresh sod from your local gardening store. Lay it down on top of the soil. Alternatively, you can buy artificial turf and lay that on top of the soil.\\nYou can cut sod and artificial turf with a utility knife if you have any left over.\\nThere is special artificial grass designed specifically for this! MTBRO’s artificial dog grass is an especially popular brand if you want high-quality material.\\nIf your dog tends to prefer gravel or sand, lay that down instead of soil or turf. You can even do a “half and half” where 1/2 of the bed is soil and the other 1/2 is gravel or stone.\\nIf you go for fresh sod, water it as soon as you’re done laying it down to help it settle.\\nTips\\nIt may take time for your pup to get used to using the potty area, so don’t rush it. Introduce it when you know they need to go, and give them treats after they use it to encourage them to continue doing so.\\nIt’s fine to use the potty area periodically when your pup needs a quick break, but you should still take them on regular walks!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you live in a city with a super small backyard or you’re in a condo/apartment with a balcony, you may want a quick way to let your dog relieve themselves without going on a long walk to a nearby grassy area. We’ve got a fun and easy solution for you—a DIY outdoor potty area! This simple solution will save you a ton of time if you’re in a rush but need to let your dog out, and it’s also a great tool if you want help housetraining your puppy. Read on to learn how to build a basic potty area for your pup.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing and Measuring the Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine where you’ll build your pup’s potty area.\", \"描述\": \"If your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way. If it’s hot where you live, placing the potty area in a shaded area may be ideal. If your dog isn’t particular, choose an area where the potty will be out of the way.\\nDoes your pup like to “hide” when they go to the bathroom? If so, set your potty area in the most secluded part of your yard.\\nIf your dog has a portion of the concrete patio/yard where they normally use the bathroom, build your potty area on top of it.\\nKeep the slope and drainage capacity of the area in mind. If a patch of concrete is slanted towards your home, you may end up with urine streams leading towards your back door.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate how big you want to make the potty area.\", \"描述\": \"You likely want to build a potty area that’s at least 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) so your dog has plenty of space to sniff and poke around, but you can make it any size you’d like. If you have a larger breed, you may want to make it twice (or even three times) as big.\\nYou don’t have to build a square-shaped potty area. In fact, if you’ve got a deep, but not particularly wide yard, this may be ideal. You can build a 4 by 8 ft (1.2 by 2.4 m) potty area, for example.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the dimensions of the potty area with chalk to size your frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use your measuring tape to calculate your dimensions. If you want to be super precise (you don’t have to be), get a chalk line and enlist a friend to hold one end for you. Pull the string taut before snapping it into the ground to mark each line. Alternatively, draw your box out freehand with a piece of chalk.\\nYou can use a straight edge, like a spirit level or plank of wood, to mark straight lines if you’re drawing freehand.\\nIf you’re working by yourself, use small objects (like a can, or pot) to mark the four corners of your potty area and keep track of your dimensions.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your wood boards if you didn’t get them cut to size.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase 1 by 4 in (25 by 102 mm) treated lumber boards. You can get them pre-cut at the building supply store, or cut them to size yourself using a circular saw or using a jigsaw. Set your boards on sawhorses, mark your cuts with a pencil, and put on protective eyewear before carefully making your cuts.\\nFor a simpler solution with a more industrial look, you can always stack cinderblocks instead of cutting wood boards.\\nIf you don’t want to use lumber, you can use rubber landscape edging. Get the firmer version of landscape edging since you can’t bury the softer stuff in grass with a concrete backyard.\\nAny kind of wood should work for this so long as it’s weather or pressure treated. Just stay away from plywood—it tends to absorb moisture and erode very quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure your boards together using a drill and wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Any kind of wood screws should work so long as they’re long enough to drive through the thinner side of your boards (2 in (5.1 cm) wood screws will work fine). Set the thin end of your longest board inside of the adjacent board at a 90-degree angle. Drive at least 2 screws through the adjacent board and into the center of the longer board to secure them together.\\nRepeat this process for the remaining sides of your frame to create your box-shaped frame.\\nDon’t worry about your frame being the world’s strongest, most reinforced frame of all-time. It’s not going to be holding so much weight that it’ll fall apart, and it’d be super easy to repair if it did.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set your frame down and reinforce it with hinges if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve constructed the frame, place it over the designated area where you drew your chalk. If it feels a little wobbly and you want to strengthen the frame, pick up four pieces of flashing and screw them into the walls of the lumber on the inside of the frame. This will help the frame keep its shape over time.\\nIt might look a little “meh” right now, but once you fill it in, it’ll look a lot better. You can also line the exterior of the frame with decorative rocks when you’re done to dress it up!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Filling the Potty Area\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay landscape fabric down if you have cracks in your concrete.\", \"描述\": \"Landscape fabric is typically laid down in raised beds to prevent weeds from growing through raised beds. If you have cracks in your concrete—even a few little ones—lay this fabric down to keep your potty area weed-free. Purchase a sheet of landscape fabric, cut it to size with scissors, and lay it down before filling the potty area in.\\nThis popular landscape fabric from Colorful Hope should be more than enough.\\nIf you don’t have cracks in the concrete—or you’re simply not worried about weeds—go ahead and skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the potty area 1/3 of the way with a base layer of pea gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Pour the gravel inside of the frame and spread it out by hand so that the bottom 1/3 of the potty area is filled. The gravel will provide drainage for your pup’s urine, to keep it from building up in the potty area over time.\\nTo determine how much pea gravel you need, multiply the length of the frame by the width to find the area. For pea gravel, 0.5 cubic feet (0.014 m) will cover 6 square feet (0.56 m). For most potty areas, you should need two bags.\\nYou can find a wide range of pea gravel online, or pick some up from a gardening or building supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place a sheet of peg board on top of the pea gravel (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Pick up a cheap sheet of wood peg board from a home improvement store and set it on top of the pea gravel. This will keep the pea gravel from shifting around over time. The holes in the peg board will also allow for plenty of drainage.\\nYou can totally skip this part if you’d like. It might mean the top soil you set down shifts around more often. It’s probably a good idea if you’ve got a bigger dog or a digging enthusiast, though.\\nIf you can’t find a peg board that fills out the frame, you can cut multiple pieces to fit your frame using a circular saw or jigsaw. Alternatively, you can buy smaller panels and lay them out next to one another.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay landscape fabric over the peg board and/or pea gravel.\", \"描述\": \"An additional layer of landscape fabric will keep your top soil and pea gravel separated here. This way, the urine can drain through below the soil and air out. Cut the fabric with scissors to match the size of the potty area and lay it on top of the gravel.\\nDon’t worry about it looking pretty—it’s going to get covered up.\\nYou can line the edges with small, heavy stones if you’re worried about your dog digging down through the top soil and tearing up the fabric.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill another 1/3 of the potty area with potting soil.\", \"描述\": \"Swing by your local gardening store and pick up some basic potting soil. The cheap stuff will work just fine, so don’t break the bank here. Fill in the next 1/3 of your potty area with soil and spread it around with a trowel (or by hand if you don’t mind getting dirty).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Lay fresh sod or artificial turf over the potting soil.\", \"描述\": \"You have some freedom at this point. For the natural look, purchase a roll or two of fresh sod from your local gardening store. Lay it down on top of the soil. Alternatively, you can buy artificial turf and lay that on top of the soil.\\nYou can cut sod and artificial turf with a utility knife if you have any left over.\\nThere is special artificial grass designed specifically for this! MTBRO’s artificial dog grass is an especially popular brand if you want high-quality material.\\nIf your dog tends to prefer gravel or sand, lay that down instead of soil or turf. You can even do a “half and half” where 1/2 of the bed is soil and the other 1/2 is gravel or stone.\\nIf you go for fresh sod, water it as soon as you’re done laying it down to help it settle.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It may take time for your pup to get used to using the potty area, so don’t rush it. Introduce it when you know they need to go, and give them treats after they use it to encourage them to continue doing so.\\n\", \"It’s fine to use the potty area periodically when your pup needs a quick break, but you should still take them on regular walks!\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,669 |
How to Build an Outdoor Fort
|
1. Using Found Supplies
1-1. Choose the best location.
A good fort will be built in a place where it fits perfectly. Look for trees with branches that are low to the ground, bushes that are hollowed out in the middle or that form a ring, or logs that can make the base for your fort . Try not to put your fort in the middle of a field or a grassy area, because this will make it difficult to build and won’t give much cover.
Lean your fort up against a tree, if you can. Forts built in the woods are the easiest to make.
Big rocks can be great places to put a fort, if you can find them.
1-2. Find some supplies from outside.
The best outdoor forts are built using things from the outdoors! Spend a bit of time searching your yard or the woods for supplies to use in building your fort. You might use things like:
Old branches
Large sticks
Tree boughs (with leaves)
Dead bushes
1-3. Choose some supplies from your house.
If you can’t find many good fort-building supplies outdoors, you might want to add some things from your house to make it better. Remember to only use things from your house with permission from your parents. Gather up all the supplies you could use to build your fort. These might include:
Blankets
Thick string (for holding up the blankets) and clothespins.
Umbrellas
Cardboard boxes
Chairs
1-4. Make the walls of your fort.
Use some big sticks (or chairs, if you don’t have sticks) and put them in the ground to set up a wall around your fort. You can use 4 sticks for the corners, or you can use lots of sticks put close together to make a wall. If you don’t have many stick, you can put blankets or big leaves between your corners to make your walls.
If you have thick string, you can wrap it between the corners and put blankets or towels over the top to make walls.
Try to make your walls between a few big trees or bushes to make it easier to build.
1-5. Give your fort a roof.
You don’t have to, but it may be good to add a roof to your fort. To do this, drape big branches with leaves over the top, and balance them on your walls. You could also throw a big blanket or tarp over the top of your roof. If you have lots, a fun idea is to use many umbrellas as a roof over the top of your fort.
Old dry branches that have fallen off trees that still have leaves are perfect for making a roof.
If you build your fort under a tree with low branches, you might not need to add a roof.
1-6. Decorate your fort.
The next best thing to building your fort is making it feel like your own. Bring in decorations to make the inside feel more comfortable, or add some to the outside. Old logs can act as chairs or tables, and fresh flowers always work well for decoration. Use big leaves as bowls and cups, and look for other parts of nature to add to your fort.
If you want, you can bring things from your house to decorate the inside of your fort. Always be sure to ask permission for this, though.
You might want to make a sign for your fort, with a name.
2. Building Other Kinds of Forts
2-1. Try building a wooden fort
If you want to make a fort that will last a bit longer, you can build one out of wood using basic tools. It may take a bit longer, but you'll end up with a top-quality fort that will last for weeks, months, or maybe even years.
2-2. Make a blanket fort
If you have a small backyard or you don't have many supplies to use for building your fort, you can try building a blanket fort instead. Although most blanket forts are built inside on rainy days, you can build one outside in a grassy area or field.
2-3. Build a box fort
If you've got lots of empty boxes in your house, put them to use by building a fort! Although your fort probably won't end up like the one in 'Out of the Box!', you can make it feel like a real house with enough work. Combine several big boxes and cut out holes between them to make 'rooms'. You can even add windows and furniture inside your box fort if you want.
2-4. Try making a snow fort
If you are lucky enough to have a snow day, you can put all the white stuff to use by making a fort with it. Snow forts won't last too long, but they may be the coolest out of all the forts you can build. Pile up the snow, cut out doors and windows, and load it up with snowballs in case of an impending attack.
2-5. Build an underground fort
This type of fort might be the hardest to make, but it will last a long time, and is really cool when finished. Building an underground fort involves digging a series of 'rooms' in the ground, and possibly even connecting them with tunnels. If you have lots of land and time to work, you should definitely try making an underground fort. But be careful!! Underground forts can collapse, so make sure you have a parent supervisor, and always make sure the soil is stable. Always build at least two exits in case of a collapse. Never build underground forts in sand. (DISCLAIMER: underground forts are crazy dangerous. More than a few people have died trying to make these. There's a lot more to building underground than digging sideways. Do a lot of research, be prepared to drop some cash, and make peace with your maker. You are seriously risking your life by building one of these.)
2-6. Build a fort in the woods
Forest forts are lots of fun, because they're easy to camouflage and add lots of decoration to from nature. Head out into the woods with some tools, collect some branches and supplies, and build your fort in the woods!
Tips
Make your fort rainproof if possible by placing tarps over it. Wind proofing your fort is also a good idea, especially if you're building a tree fort.
Combining forts creates what's called a "multi-fort". This may comprised of a grouping of tree forts and bush forts together, or an underground fort leading to a bush fort. Experiment - there's no firm way to make a fort; use your imagination!
If you can find old branches around the place, put them up anywhere for camouflage. It also makes the fort more natural looking. You can also take logs and lean it against a tree fort. Take dead grass and use it for a roof.
Warnings
Be prepared for your fort to fall down, be destroyed or be broken by the elements or other people and animals. It's the way outdoor forts go and there's not much you can do to prevent it but trying to build as good a fort as you can.
Be cautious when re-entering your fort after a while. Who knows what animals could be living in there.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using Found Supplies\\n1-1. Choose the best location.\\nA good fort will be built in a place where it fits perfectly. Look for trees with branches that are low to the ground, bushes that are hollowed out in the middle or that form a ring, or logs that can make the base for your fort . Try not to put your fort in the middle of a field or a grassy area, because this will make it difficult to build and won’t give much cover.\\nLean your fort up against a tree, if you can. Forts built in the woods are the easiest to make.\\nBig rocks can be great places to put a fort, if you can find them.\\n1-2. Find some supplies from outside.\\nThe best outdoor forts are built using things from the outdoors! Spend a bit of time searching your yard or the woods for supplies to use in building your fort. You might use things like:\\nOld branches\\nLarge sticks\\nTree boughs (with leaves)\\nDead bushes\\n1-3. Choose some supplies from your house.\\nIf you can’t find many good fort-building supplies outdoors, you might want to add some things from your house to make it better. Remember to only use things from your house with permission from your parents. Gather up all the supplies you could use to build your fort. These might include:\\nBlankets\\nThick string (for holding up the blankets) and clothespins.\\nUmbrellas\\nCardboard boxes\\nChairs\\n1-4. Make the walls of your fort.\\nUse some big sticks (or chairs, if you don’t have sticks) and put them in the ground to set up a wall around your fort. You can use 4 sticks for the corners, or you can use lots of sticks put close together to make a wall. If you don’t have many stick, you can put blankets or big leaves between your corners to make your walls.\\nIf you have thick string, you can wrap it between the corners and put blankets or towels over the top to make walls.\\nTry to make your walls between a few big trees or bushes to make it easier to build.\\n1-5. Give your fort a roof.\\nYou don’t have to, but it may be good to add a roof to your fort. To do this, drape big branches with leaves over the top, and balance them on your walls. You could also throw a big blanket or tarp over the top of your roof. If you have lots, a fun idea is to use many umbrellas as a roof over the top of your fort.\\nOld dry branches that have fallen off trees that still have leaves are perfect for making a roof.\\nIf you build your fort under a tree with low branches, you might not need to add a roof.\\n1-6. Decorate your fort.\\nThe next best thing to building your fort is making it feel like your own. Bring in decorations to make the inside feel more comfortable, or add some to the outside. Old logs can act as chairs or tables, and fresh flowers always work well for decoration. Use big leaves as bowls and cups, and look for other parts of nature to add to your fort.\\nIf you want, you can bring things from your house to decorate the inside of your fort. Always be sure to ask permission for this, though.\\nYou might want to make a sign for your fort, with a name.\\n2. Building Other Kinds of Forts\\n2-1. Try building a wooden fort\\nIf you want to make a fort that will last a bit longer, you can build one out of wood using basic tools. It may take a bit longer, but you'll end up with a top-quality fort that will last for weeks, months, or maybe even years.\\n2-2. Make a blanket fort\\nIf you have a small backyard or you don't have many supplies to use for building your fort, you can try building a blanket fort instead. Although most blanket forts are built inside on rainy days, you can build one outside in a grassy area or field.\\n2-3. Build a box fort\\nIf you've got lots of empty boxes in your house, put them to use by building a fort! Although your fort probably won't end up like the one in 'Out of the Box!', you can make it feel like a real house with enough work. Combine several big boxes and cut out holes between them to make 'rooms'. You can even add windows and furniture inside your box fort if you want.\\n2-4. Try making a snow fort\\nIf you are lucky enough to have a snow day, you can put all the white stuff to use by making a fort with it. Snow forts won't last too long, but they may be the coolest out of all the forts you can build. Pile up the snow, cut out doors and windows, and load it up with snowballs in case of an impending attack.\\n2-5. Build an underground fort\\nThis type of fort might be the hardest to make, but it will last a long time, and is really cool when finished. Building an underground fort involves digging a series of 'rooms' in the ground, and possibly even connecting them with tunnels. If you have lots of land and time to work, you should definitely try making an underground fort. But be careful!! Underground forts can collapse, so make sure you have a parent supervisor, and always make sure the soil is stable. Always build at least two exits in case of a collapse. Never build underground forts in sand. (DISCLAIMER: underground forts are crazy dangerous. More than a few people have died trying to make these. There's a lot more to building underground than digging sideways. Do a lot of research, be prepared to drop some cash, and make peace with your maker. You are seriously risking your life by building one of these.)\\n2-6. Build a fort in the woods\\nForest forts are lots of fun, because they're easy to camouflage and add lots of decoration to from nature. Head out into the woods with some tools, collect some branches and supplies, and build your fort in the woods!\\nTips\\nMake your fort rainproof if possible by placing tarps over it. Wind proofing your fort is also a good idea, especially if you're building a tree fort.\\nCombining forts creates what's called a \\\"multi-fort\\\". This may comprised of a grouping of tree forts and bush forts together, or an underground fort leading to a bush fort. Experiment - there's no firm way to make a fort; use your imagination!\\nIf you can find old branches around the place, put them up anywhere for camouflage. It also makes the fort more natural looking. You can also take logs and lean it against a tree fort. Take dead grass and use it for a roof.\\nWarnings\\nBe prepared for your fort to fall down, be destroyed or be broken by the elements or other people and animals. It's the way outdoor forts go and there's not much you can do to prevent it but trying to build as good a fort as you can.\\nBe cautious when re-entering your fort after a while. Who knows what animals could be living in there.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you want to create the ultimate fortress outdoors? Need a hideout? Want to know exactly how to build one like a master? Outdoor forts can be tons of fun to make, if you take a bit of time to build it up and use plenty of materials from nature.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using Found Supplies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the best location.\", \"描述\": \"A good fort will be built in a place where it fits perfectly. Look for trees with branches that are low to the ground, bushes that are hollowed out in the middle or that form a ring, or logs that can make the base for your fort . Try not to put your fort in the middle of a field or a grassy area, because this will make it difficult to build and won’t give much cover.\\nLean your fort up against a tree, if you can. Forts built in the woods are the easiest to make.\\nBig rocks can be great places to put a fort, if you can find them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find some supplies from outside.\", \"描述\": \"The best outdoor forts are built using things from the outdoors! Spend a bit of time searching your yard or the woods for supplies to use in building your fort. You might use things like:\\nOld branches\\nLarge sticks\\nTree boughs (with leaves)\\nDead bushes\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose some supplies from your house.\", \"描述\": \"If you can’t find many good fort-building supplies outdoors, you might want to add some things from your house to make it better. Remember to only use things from your house with permission from your parents. Gather up all the supplies you could use to build your fort. These might include:\\nBlankets\\nThick string (for holding up the blankets) and clothespins.\\nUmbrellas\\nCardboard boxes\\nChairs\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make the walls of your fort.\", \"描述\": \"Use some big sticks (or chairs, if you don’t have sticks) and put them in the ground to set up a wall around your fort. You can use 4 sticks for the corners, or you can use lots of sticks put close together to make a wall. If you don’t have many stick, you can put blankets or big leaves between your corners to make your walls.\\nIf you have thick string, you can wrap it between the corners and put blankets or towels over the top to make walls.\\nTry to make your walls between a few big trees or bushes to make it easier to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Give your fort a roof.\", \"描述\": \"You don’t have to, but it may be good to add a roof to your fort. To do this, drape big branches with leaves over the top, and balance them on your walls. You could also throw a big blanket or tarp over the top of your roof. If you have lots, a fun idea is to use many umbrellas as a roof over the top of your fort.\\nOld dry branches that have fallen off trees that still have leaves are perfect for making a roof.\\nIf you build your fort under a tree with low branches, you might not need to add a roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate your fort.\", \"描述\": \"The next best thing to building your fort is making it feel like your own. Bring in decorations to make the inside feel more comfortable, or add some to the outside. Old logs can act as chairs or tables, and fresh flowers always work well for decoration. Use big leaves as bowls and cups, and look for other parts of nature to add to your fort.\\nIf you want, you can bring things from your house to decorate the inside of your fort. Always be sure to ask permission for this, though.\\nYou might want to make a sign for your fort, with a name.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Other Kinds of Forts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try building a wooden fort\", \"描述\": \"If you want to make a fort that will last a bit longer, you can build one out of wood using basic tools. It may take a bit longer, but you'll end up with a top-quality fort that will last for weeks, months, or maybe even years.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a blanket fort\", \"描述\": \"If you have a small backyard or you don't have many supplies to use for building your fort, you can try building a blanket fort instead. Although most blanket forts are built inside on rainy days, you can build one outside in a grassy area or field.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a box fort\", \"描述\": \"If you've got lots of empty boxes in your house, put them to use by building a fort! Although your fort probably won't end up like the one in 'Out of the Box!', you can make it feel like a real house with enough work. Combine several big boxes and cut out holes between them to make 'rooms'. You can even add windows and furniture inside your box fort if you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try making a snow fort\", \"描述\": \"If you are lucky enough to have a snow day, you can put all the white stuff to use by making a fort with it. Snow forts won't last too long, but they may be the coolest out of all the forts you can build. Pile up the snow, cut out doors and windows, and load it up with snowballs in case of an impending attack.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build an underground fort\", \"描述\": \"This type of fort might be the hardest to make, but it will last a long time, and is really cool when finished. Building an underground fort involves digging a series of 'rooms' in the ground, and possibly even connecting them with tunnels. If you have lots of land and time to work, you should definitely try making an underground fort. But be careful!! Underground forts can collapse, so make sure you have a parent supervisor, and always make sure the soil is stable. Always build at least two exits in case of a collapse. Never build underground forts in sand. (DISCLAIMER: underground forts are crazy dangerous. More than a few people have died trying to make these. There's a lot more to building underground than digging sideways. Do a lot of research, be prepared to drop some cash, and make peace with your maker. You are seriously risking your life by building one of these.)\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a fort in the woods\", \"描述\": \"Forest forts are lots of fun, because they're easy to camouflage and add lots of decoration to from nature. Head out into the woods with some tools, collect some branches and supplies, and build your fort in the woods!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make your fort rainproof if possible by placing tarps over it. Wind proofing your fort is also a good idea, especially if you're building a tree fort.\\n\", \"Combining forts creates what's called a \\\"multi-fort\\\". This may comprised of a grouping of tree forts and bush forts together, or an underground fort leading to a bush fort. Experiment - there's no firm way to make a fort; use your imagination!\\n\", \"If you can find old branches around the place, put them up anywhere for camouflage. It also makes the fort more natural looking. You can also take logs and lean it against a tree fort. Take dead grass and use it for a roof.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be prepared for your fort to fall down, be destroyed or be broken by the elements or other people and animals. It's the way outdoor forts go and there's not much you can do to prevent it but trying to build as good a fort as you can.\\n\", \"Be cautious when re-entering your fort after a while. Who knows what animals could be living in there.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,670 |
How to Build an Outdoor Kitchen
|
1. Designing Your Kitchen
1-1. Hire a contractor if you need to install utility lines.
You can construct basic bases and cabinetry for an outdoor kitchen on your own. However, if you want to include a sink, refrigerator, and other extra features, you'll need a professional to install plumbing and electrical outlets. If you don't want to lug around propane tanks, you'll also need a professional to run an underground gas line.
Have a professional install any needed utility lines before you install your base cabinets. Try to come up with a design for the layout, then have them install connections to fit your configuration.
1-2. Figure out if you'll need permits.
Some areas require building permits for plumbing and gas line installations and for work exceeding a set amount of money. If you hire a licensed contractor or electrician, they will be knowledgeable about your jurisdiction's building codes. If you're just working on your own, contact your local building or code enforcement department.
1-3. Keep the kitchen near your home.
Set up the kitchen near your home instead of in the middle of your yard. An exterior wall will lend protection from the elements. Utilities are also cheaper to install if the space is next to the house.
1-4. Choose a configuration that fits your space and budget.
Depending on your budget and available space, choose a line, L-shape, or U-shaped configuration.
The most affordable configuration is a simple line setup, which would sit against your home or extend out as a peninsula. It would consist of a grill flanked by bases with cabinetry and countertops. You could also designate spots for a sink and mini-refrigerator, but space might get tight.
L-shaped configurations are more elaborate and more expensive. The grill, flanked by cabinet bases, could sit against your home. More bases with cutouts for a mini-fridge, sink, and storage could extend out as a peninsula to form an L-shape.
If you have more space available, you could extend another peninsula on the other side to form a U-shape. Keep in mind a more elaborate setup will require more building materials and, if you're hiring someone, higher labor costs.
1-5. Choose your materials.
Use weather-resistant materials for your cabinetry and countertops, like brick veneer and granite. In addition, take your home's materials into account when you choose what to use for your outdoor kitchen. For example, if your home has a stone or brick facade, you could cover your cabinet bases with a durable brick or stone veneer.
If you're building your own bases, the easiest DIY method is to use treated plywood to construct a frame, then cover it with a brick or stone veneer. Since wood is combustible, you'll need to install an insulated grill tray (if your grill will be built-in) and cover the frame with wire lathe before adding mortar and the veneer.
If you're having a contractor build your bases, they'll use a steel or concrete frame to support the veneer.
1-6. Choose your appliances before building cabinetry.
It's wise to purchase your appliances before construction, especially if you're building your own cabinet bases. If you already have your grill, mini-fridge, and other features, you'll be able to construct cabinetry with cutouts and overall dimensions that match your appliances.
In addition, your layout will depend on which appliances you need. For instance, work a gap between 2 cabinet bases into your design to match the size of a mini-fridge. If you know your fridge's dimensions from the start, you can make your cabinets the same height so the countertop will fit seamlessly over the cabinets and fridge.
Make sure your appliances are rated for exterior use.
1-7. Look into getting prefabricated bases and cabinets.
Buying prefabricated bases is more affordable than having custom cabinets built. Installing ready-made bases is also easier than having cabinets made or building them yourself. You can find prefabricated cabinetry manufacturers online. Most manufacturers' websites include design tools that allow you to match the base modules to your space's footprint.
Once they're delivered, you can arrange and connect the bases using metal fasteners and construction adhesive. You can purchase bases with openings for gas, water, and electrical lines, then have a professional plumb or wire them.
2. Building Your Own Bases and Cabinetry
2-1. Construct base frames out of plywood boards.
Attach 2 boards to each other with 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) screws to create a corner post, then repeat the process to make 4 corner posts per base module. Screw boards horizontally into the tops and bottoms of the corner posts to create a box frame. Finish by screwing boards across the bottom of the box where you want to include cabinets.
Use a circular saw to cut your plywood boards to the right sizes. You'll want your bases' total height to be about 38 inches (97 cm), but you'll need to factor in your the height of your countertop when you cut your plywood posts. Subtract your countertop height from 38 inches (97 cm) to find the right height for your corner posts.
To create cube-shaped modules, make your horizontal boards the same size as your corner posts. You could make multiple modules, place on on each side of your standing grill, and add others to create a peninsula.
2-2. Leave room for an insulated jacket for a built-in grill.
If you have a built-in or drop-in grill, purchase an insulated jacket that fits the grill. Build a smaller plywood box frame to fit the grill jacket's dimensions, so the jacket will sit at the top of the box. The grill will fit into the jacket on this module, then you'll place your full-height modules on either side.
An insulated jacket is needed to contain the heat produced by the grill. If you already have a standing grill, you can just build your cabinet modules and place them around your grill.
2-3. Cover the box frame with plywood panels.
After building your box frame, cut plywood panels to match the box's dimensions. Use a jigsaw to cut out spaces in the panels for cabinets. Apply a bead of woodworking glue across the plywood posts on one face of the box, press a plywood panel onto the face, then secure it with screws.
Glue and screw on the plywood panels onto the other 3 faces of the box, leaving the top and bottom open.
2-4. Use a staple gun to cover the plywood panels with builder's felt.
After sheathing your frame with plywood panels, cover each side with builder's felt. Secure to the plywood with staples every 6 inches (15 cm).
Remember to include cutouts for cabinets in the felt to match those cut into the plywood panels.
2-5. Nail sheets of wire lath over the felt.
Feel for the side of the lath with a textured honeycomb pattern. This side should face out. Lay sheets of lath over the felt on all sides, and hammer nails every 6 inches (15 cm) to secure the lath. Trim the top of the lath so it's flush with the top of the frame.
Wear gloves when working with wire lath.
Remember to include cutouts for the cabinets in the lath.
2-6. Build cabinet boxes.
Cut plywood panels to create boxes that fit into the cutouts made in the base. Cut a bottom and 3 sides, then apply woodworking glue and screw them together to create a 3 sided, topless box. Create a flange, or projection for the door, by cutting strips of plywood 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) deep. Glue the strips to the front of the cabinet box to form a continuous lip around the front face.
Create a cabinet box for each cutout you've made in your modules. Set the boxes aside until you've laid a scratch coat of mortar.
You can't just repurpose old interior cabinets without building a veneered base around them. They won't hold up to the elements.
2-7. Apply a scratch coat of mortar.
Once you've made enough modules to fit your design, place them where you want your outdoor kitchen and arrange them so they're in their approximate final positions. Mix mortar to create a peanut butter-like consistency, then cover the lath with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) coat. Allow the coat to cure for an hour.
Before you start working, lay a border of scrap boards around the base to catch excess mortar.
2-8. Score the mortar after an hour.
After an hour, score the surface of each mortared face with a notched trowel. Run the trowel across the surface horizontally to create lines over each side.
These scores will help hold the veneer to the surface.
2-9. Install the cabinet boxes.
After you've scored the scratch coat, slide your cabinet boxes into the cutouts. Drive screws to secure them to the base, and make sure the flange, or lip, on the front face projects 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) so it can accommodate doors later.
2-10. Lay your brick or stone veneer.
Butter the back of an L-shaped corner piece with mortar, then set it into a bottom corner of your base so it rests above the scrap boards. Continue buttering and laying bricks or stones in either direction until you've finished the first row, then proceed laying the veneer until you've covered the entire base. Dry mount your veneer pieces before mortaring them to double check their fit.
Don't cover the flanges, or lips, of the cabinet boxes with veneer. Leave the flanges exposed so you can screw your door hinges onto them.
Allow the veneer to set for 24 hours.
3. Adding Final Touches
3-1. Hang cabinet doors
If you can find steel doors that fit your design, they're the most durable option. If you can't track any down, you can trim old wooden cabinet doors or cut wood panels to fit your project. Screw the hinges onto the flange, then screw the hinges onto the door.
If you have to go with wooden doors, seal them with a wood varnish labeled for exterior wooden furniture. After 2 or 3 years, you'll probably have to sand the doors and freshen the varnish.
3-2. Install the sink
Position the sink basin on a base module. Make sure you have a professional plumb the site in advance, and connect the water supply line and drain.
3-3. Install the countertop
Order natural stone and have the manufacturer cut it to fit your project. Make sure to specify a sink hole if your design includes a sink. Cut plywood panels to precisely fit the tops of your base cabinets, and secure the panels to the modules with screws. Fit the stone sections over your modules to test their fit, then glue them down with a silicone adhesive.
If there's a problem with the fit, have the stone delivery person or manufacturer make adjustments with a diamond-tipped saw.
3-4. Position your grill and other appliances.
With your cabinetry and countertops in place, you can insert your drop-in grill into the insulated jacket. If you had a gas line installed, connect the grill to the line.
If you have a standing grill, slide it into place between your base modules.
If you've included a mini-fridge in your design, plug it in and slide it into its designated space.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing Your Kitchen\\n1-1. Hire a contractor if you need to install utility lines.\\nYou can construct basic bases and cabinetry for an outdoor kitchen on your own. However, if you want to include a sink, refrigerator, and other extra features, you'll need a professional to install plumbing and electrical outlets. If you don't want to lug around propane tanks, you'll also need a professional to run an underground gas line.\\nHave a professional install any needed utility lines before you install your base cabinets. Try to come up with a design for the layout, then have them install connections to fit your configuration.\\n1-2. Figure out if you'll need permits.\\nSome areas require building permits for plumbing and gas line installations and for work exceeding a set amount of money. If you hire a licensed contractor or electrician, they will be knowledgeable about your jurisdiction's building codes. If you're just working on your own, contact your local building or code enforcement department.\\n1-3. Keep the kitchen near your home.\\nSet up the kitchen near your home instead of in the middle of your yard. An exterior wall will lend protection from the elements. Utilities are also cheaper to install if the space is next to the house.\\n1-4. Choose a configuration that fits your space and budget.\\nDepending on your budget and available space, choose a line, L-shape, or U-shaped configuration.\\nThe most affordable configuration is a simple line setup, which would sit against your home or extend out as a peninsula. It would consist of a grill flanked by bases with cabinetry and countertops. You could also designate spots for a sink and mini-refrigerator, but space might get tight.\\nL-shaped configurations are more elaborate and more expensive. The grill, flanked by cabinet bases, could sit against your home. More bases with cutouts for a mini-fridge, sink, and storage could extend out as a peninsula to form an L-shape.\\nIf you have more space available, you could extend another peninsula on the other side to form a U-shape. Keep in mind a more elaborate setup will require more building materials and, if you're hiring someone, higher labor costs.\\n1-5. Choose your materials.\\nUse weather-resistant materials for your cabinetry and countertops, like brick veneer and granite. In addition, take your home's materials into account when you choose what to use for your outdoor kitchen. For example, if your home has a stone or brick facade, you could cover your cabinet bases with a durable brick or stone veneer.\\nIf you're building your own bases, the easiest DIY method is to use treated plywood to construct a frame, then cover it with a brick or stone veneer. Since wood is combustible, you'll need to install an insulated grill tray (if your grill will be built-in) and cover the frame with wire lathe before adding mortar and the veneer.\\nIf you're having a contractor build your bases, they'll use a steel or concrete frame to support the veneer.\\n1-6. Choose your appliances before building cabinetry.\\nIt's wise to purchase your appliances before construction, especially if you're building your own cabinet bases. If you already have your grill, mini-fridge, and other features, you'll be able to construct cabinetry with cutouts and overall dimensions that match your appliances.\\nIn addition, your layout will depend on which appliances you need. For instance, work a gap between 2 cabinet bases into your design to match the size of a mini-fridge. If you know your fridge's dimensions from the start, you can make your cabinets the same height so the countertop will fit seamlessly over the cabinets and fridge.\\nMake sure your appliances are rated for exterior use.\\n1-7. Look into getting prefabricated bases and cabinets.\\nBuying prefabricated bases is more affordable than having custom cabinets built. Installing ready-made bases is also easier than having cabinets made or building them yourself. You can find prefabricated cabinetry manufacturers online. Most manufacturers' websites include design tools that allow you to match the base modules to your space's footprint.\\nOnce they're delivered, you can arrange and connect the bases using metal fasteners and construction adhesive. You can purchase bases with openings for gas, water, and electrical lines, then have a professional plumb or wire them.\\n2. Building Your Own Bases and Cabinetry\\n2-1. Construct base frames out of plywood boards.\\nAttach 2 boards to each other with 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) screws to create a corner post, then repeat the process to make 4 corner posts per base module. Screw boards horizontally into the tops and bottoms of the corner posts to create a box frame. Finish by screwing boards across the bottom of the box where you want to include cabinets.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your plywood boards to the right sizes. You'll want your bases' total height to be about 38 inches (97 cm), but you'll need to factor in your the height of your countertop when you cut your plywood posts. Subtract your countertop height from 38 inches (97 cm) to find the right height for your corner posts.\\nTo create cube-shaped modules, make your horizontal boards the same size as your corner posts. You could make multiple modules, place on on each side of your standing grill, and add others to create a peninsula.\\n2-2. Leave room for an insulated jacket for a built-in grill.\\nIf you have a built-in or drop-in grill, purchase an insulated jacket that fits the grill. Build a smaller plywood box frame to fit the grill jacket's dimensions, so the jacket will sit at the top of the box. The grill will fit into the jacket on this module, then you'll place your full-height modules on either side.\\nAn insulated jacket is needed to contain the heat produced by the grill. If you already have a standing grill, you can just build your cabinet modules and place them around your grill.\\n2-3. Cover the box frame with plywood panels.\\nAfter building your box frame, cut plywood panels to match the box's dimensions. Use a jigsaw to cut out spaces in the panels for cabinets. Apply a bead of woodworking glue across the plywood posts on one face of the box, press a plywood panel onto the face, then secure it with screws.\\nGlue and screw on the plywood panels onto the other 3 faces of the box, leaving the top and bottom open.\\n2-4. Use a staple gun to cover the plywood panels with builder's felt.\\nAfter sheathing your frame with plywood panels, cover each side with builder's felt. Secure to the plywood with staples every 6 inches (15 cm).\\nRemember to include cutouts for cabinets in the felt to match those cut into the plywood panels.\\n2-5. Nail sheets of wire lath over the felt.\\nFeel for the side of the lath with a textured honeycomb pattern. This side should face out. Lay sheets of lath over the felt on all sides, and hammer nails every 6 inches (15 cm) to secure the lath. Trim the top of the lath so it's flush with the top of the frame.\\nWear gloves when working with wire lath.\\nRemember to include cutouts for the cabinets in the lath.\\n2-6. Build cabinet boxes.\\nCut plywood panels to create boxes that fit into the cutouts made in the base. Cut a bottom and 3 sides, then apply woodworking glue and screw them together to create a 3 sided, topless box. Create a flange, or projection for the door, by cutting strips of plywood 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) deep. Glue the strips to the front of the cabinet box to form a continuous lip around the front face.\\nCreate a cabinet box for each cutout you've made in your modules. Set the boxes aside until you've laid a scratch coat of mortar.\\nYou can't just repurpose old interior cabinets without building a veneered base around them. They won't hold up to the elements.\\n2-7. Apply a scratch coat of mortar.\\nOnce you've made enough modules to fit your design, place them where you want your outdoor kitchen and arrange them so they're in their approximate final positions. Mix mortar to create a peanut butter-like consistency, then cover the lath with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) coat. Allow the coat to cure for an hour.\\nBefore you start working, lay a border of scrap boards around the base to catch excess mortar.\\n2-8. Score the mortar after an hour.\\nAfter an hour, score the surface of each mortared face with a notched trowel. Run the trowel across the surface horizontally to create lines over each side.\\nThese scores will help hold the veneer to the surface.\\n2-9. Install the cabinet boxes.\\nAfter you've scored the scratch coat, slide your cabinet boxes into the cutouts. Drive screws to secure them to the base, and make sure the flange, or lip, on the front face projects 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) so it can accommodate doors later.\\n2-10. Lay your brick or stone veneer.\\nButter the back of an L-shaped corner piece with mortar, then set it into a bottom corner of your base so it rests above the scrap boards. Continue buttering and laying bricks or stones in either direction until you've finished the first row, then proceed laying the veneer until you've covered the entire base. Dry mount your veneer pieces before mortaring them to double check their fit.\\nDon't cover the flanges, or lips, of the cabinet boxes with veneer. Leave the flanges exposed so you can screw your door hinges onto them.\\nAllow the veneer to set for 24 hours.\\n3. Adding Final Touches\\n3-1. Hang cabinet doors\\nIf you can find steel doors that fit your design, they're the most durable option. If you can't track any down, you can trim old wooden cabinet doors or cut wood panels to fit your project. Screw the hinges onto the flange, then screw the hinges onto the door.\\nIf you have to go with wooden doors, seal them with a wood varnish labeled for exterior wooden furniture. After 2 or 3 years, you'll probably have to sand the doors and freshen the varnish.\\n3-2. Install the sink\\nPosition the sink basin on a base module. Make sure you have a professional plumb the site in advance, and connect the water supply line and drain.\\n3-3. Install the countertop\\nOrder natural stone and have the manufacturer cut it to fit your project. Make sure to specify a sink hole if your design includes a sink. Cut plywood panels to precisely fit the tops of your base cabinets, and secure the panels to the modules with screws. Fit the stone sections over your modules to test their fit, then glue them down with a silicone adhesive.\\nIf there's a problem with the fit, have the stone delivery person or manufacturer make adjustments with a diamond-tipped saw.\\n3-4. Position your grill and other appliances.\\nWith your cabinetry and countertops in place, you can insert your drop-in grill into the insulated jacket. If you had a gas line installed, connect the grill to the line.\\nIf you have a standing grill, slide it into place between your base modules.\\nIf you've included a mini-fridge in your design, plug it in and slide it into its designated space.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"An outdoor kitchen can turn your backyard into party central and increase your home's value. If you're handy, you can do a lot of the work yourself, but a more elaborate design might require a professional. After designing the layout and, if necessary, having utilities lines professionally installed, define the space with base cabinet modules. You can order prefabricated modules, have them custom made, or construct your own. With utilities and cabinetry installed, all that's left is to slide your grill, mini-fridge, and other appliances into position.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Kitchen\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hire a contractor if you need to install utility lines.\", \"描述\": \"You can construct basic bases and cabinetry for an outdoor kitchen on your own. However, if you want to include a sink, refrigerator, and other extra features, you'll need a professional to install plumbing and electrical outlets. If you don't want to lug around propane tanks, you'll also need a professional to run an underground gas line.\\nHave a professional install any needed utility lines before you install your base cabinets. Try to come up with a design for the layout, then have them install connections to fit your configuration.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Figure out if you'll need permits.\", \"描述\": \"Some areas require building permits for plumbing and gas line installations and for work exceeding a set amount of money. If you hire a licensed contractor or electrician, they will be knowledgeable about your jurisdiction's building codes. If you're just working on your own, contact your local building or code enforcement department.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the kitchen near your home.\", \"描述\": \"Set up the kitchen near your home instead of in the middle of your yard. An exterior wall will lend protection from the elements. Utilities are also cheaper to install if the space is next to the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose a configuration that fits your space and budget.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on your budget and available space, choose a line, L-shape, or U-shaped configuration.\\nThe most affordable configuration is a simple line setup, which would sit against your home or extend out as a peninsula. It would consist of a grill flanked by bases with cabinetry and countertops. You could also designate spots for a sink and mini-refrigerator, but space might get tight.\\nL-shaped configurations are more elaborate and more expensive. The grill, flanked by cabinet bases, could sit against your home. More bases with cutouts for a mini-fridge, sink, and storage could extend out as a peninsula to form an L-shape.\\nIf you have more space available, you could extend another peninsula on the other side to form a U-shape. Keep in mind a more elaborate setup will require more building materials and, if you're hiring someone, higher labor costs.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Use weather-resistant materials for your cabinetry and countertops, like brick veneer and granite. In addition, take your home's materials into account when you choose what to use for your outdoor kitchen. For example, if your home has a stone or brick facade, you could cover your cabinet bases with a durable brick or stone veneer.\\nIf you're building your own bases, the easiest DIY method is to use treated plywood to construct a frame, then cover it with a brick or stone veneer. Since wood is combustible, you'll need to install an insulated grill tray (if your grill will be built-in) and cover the frame with wire lathe before adding mortar and the veneer.\\nIf you're having a contractor build your bases, they'll use a steel or concrete frame to support the veneer.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Choose your appliances before building cabinetry.\", \"描述\": \"It's wise to purchase your appliances before construction, especially if you're building your own cabinet bases. If you already have your grill, mini-fridge, and other features, you'll be able to construct cabinetry with cutouts and overall dimensions that match your appliances.\\nIn addition, your layout will depend on which appliances you need. For instance, work a gap between 2 cabinet bases into your design to match the size of a mini-fridge. If you know your fridge's dimensions from the start, you can make your cabinets the same height so the countertop will fit seamlessly over the cabinets and fridge.\\nMake sure your appliances are rated for exterior use.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Look into getting prefabricated bases and cabinets.\", \"描述\": \"Buying prefabricated bases is more affordable than having custom cabinets built. Installing ready-made bases is also easier than having cabinets made or building them yourself. You can find prefabricated cabinetry manufacturers online. Most manufacturers' websites include design tools that allow you to match the base modules to your space's footprint.\\nOnce they're delivered, you can arrange and connect the bases using metal fasteners and construction adhesive. You can purchase bases with openings for gas, water, and electrical lines, then have a professional plumb or wire them.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Your Own Bases and Cabinetry\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Construct base frames out of plywood boards.\", \"描述\": \"Attach 2 boards to each other with 2.25 inches (5.7 cm) screws to create a corner post, then repeat the process to make 4 corner posts per base module. Screw boards horizontally into the tops and bottoms of the corner posts to create a box frame. Finish by screwing boards across the bottom of the box where you want to include cabinets.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your plywood boards to the right sizes. You'll want your bases' total height to be about 38 inches (97 cm), but you'll need to factor in your the height of your countertop when you cut your plywood posts. Subtract your countertop height from 38 inches (97 cm) to find the right height for your corner posts.\\nTo create cube-shaped modules, make your horizontal boards the same size as your corner posts. You could make multiple modules, place on on each side of your standing grill, and add others to create a peninsula.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Leave room for an insulated jacket for a built-in grill.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a built-in or drop-in grill, purchase an insulated jacket that fits the grill. Build a smaller plywood box frame to fit the grill jacket's dimensions, so the jacket will sit at the top of the box. The grill will fit into the jacket on this module, then you'll place your full-height modules on either side.\\nAn insulated jacket is needed to contain the heat produced by the grill. If you already have a standing grill, you can just build your cabinet modules and place them around your grill.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the box frame with plywood panels.\", \"描述\": \"After building your box frame, cut plywood panels to match the box's dimensions. Use a jigsaw to cut out spaces in the panels for cabinets. Apply a bead of woodworking glue across the plywood posts on one face of the box, press a plywood panel onto the face, then secure it with screws.\\nGlue and screw on the plywood panels onto the other 3 faces of the box, leaving the top and bottom open.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a staple gun to cover the plywood panels with builder's felt.\", \"描述\": \"After sheathing your frame with plywood panels, cover each side with builder's felt. Secure to the plywood with staples every 6 inches (15 cm).\\nRemember to include cutouts for cabinets in the felt to match those cut into the plywood panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail sheets of wire lath over the felt.\", \"描述\": \"Feel for the side of the lath with a textured honeycomb pattern. This side should face out. Lay sheets of lath over the felt on all sides, and hammer nails every 6 inches (15 cm) to secure the lath. Trim the top of the lath so it's flush with the top of the frame.\\nWear gloves when working with wire lath.\\nRemember to include cutouts for the cabinets in the lath.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build cabinet boxes.\", \"描述\": \"Cut plywood panels to create boxes that fit into the cutouts made in the base. Cut a bottom and 3 sides, then apply woodworking glue and screw them together to create a 3 sided, topless box. Create a flange, or projection for the door, by cutting strips of plywood 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) deep. Glue the strips to the front of the cabinet box to form a continuous lip around the front face.\\nCreate a cabinet box for each cutout you've made in your modules. Set the boxes aside until you've laid a scratch coat of mortar.\\nYou can't just repurpose old interior cabinets without building a veneered base around them. They won't hold up to the elements.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply a scratch coat of mortar.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've made enough modules to fit your design, place them where you want your outdoor kitchen and arrange them so they're in their approximate final positions. Mix mortar to create a peanut butter-like consistency, then cover the lath with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) coat. Allow the coat to cure for an hour.\\nBefore you start working, lay a border of scrap boards around the base to catch excess mortar.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Score the mortar after an hour.\", \"描述\": \"After an hour, score the surface of each mortared face with a notched trowel. Run the trowel across the surface horizontally to create lines over each side.\\nThese scores will help hold the veneer to the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install the cabinet boxes.\", \"描述\": \"After you've scored the scratch coat, slide your cabinet boxes into the cutouts. Drive screws to secure them to the base, and make sure the flange, or lip, on the front face projects 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) so it can accommodate doors later.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Lay your brick or stone veneer.\", \"描述\": \"Butter the back of an L-shaped corner piece with mortar, then set it into a bottom corner of your base so it rests above the scrap boards. Continue buttering and laying bricks or stones in either direction until you've finished the first row, then proceed laying the veneer until you've covered the entire base. Dry mount your veneer pieces before mortaring them to double check their fit.\\nDon't cover the flanges, or lips, of the cabinet boxes with veneer. Leave the flanges exposed so you can screw your door hinges onto them.\\nAllow the veneer to set for 24 hours.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Final Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hang cabinet doors\", \"描述\": \"If you can find steel doors that fit your design, they're the most durable option. If you can't track any down, you can trim old wooden cabinet doors or cut wood panels to fit your project. Screw the hinges onto the flange, then screw the hinges onto the door.\\nIf you have to go with wooden doors, seal them with a wood varnish labeled for exterior wooden furniture. After 2 or 3 years, you'll probably have to sand the doors and freshen the varnish.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install the sink\", \"描述\": \"Position the sink basin on a base module. Make sure you have a professional plumb the site in advance, and connect the water supply line and drain.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the countertop\", \"描述\": \"Order natural stone and have the manufacturer cut it to fit your project. Make sure to specify a sink hole if your design includes a sink. Cut plywood panels to precisely fit the tops of your base cabinets, and secure the panels to the modules with screws. Fit the stone sections over your modules to test their fit, then glue them down with a silicone adhesive.\\nIf there's a problem with the fit, have the stone delivery person or manufacturer make adjustments with a diamond-tipped saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Position your grill and other appliances.\", \"描述\": \"With your cabinetry and countertops in place, you can insert your drop-in grill into the insulated jacket. If you had a gas line installed, connect the grill to the line.\\nIf you have a standing grill, slide it into place between your base modules.\\nIf you've included a mini-fridge in your design, plug it in and slide it into its designated space.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,671 |
How to Build an Outdoor Rabbit Cage
|
1. Planning an Outdoor Rabbit Cage
1-1. Find a well-shaded and protected area of your yard to place the cage in.
This should be a spot that is best suited to your rabbit's needs. The location, in combination with the cage itself, will provide the shade the rabbit needs to keep from overheating in the summer and should also keep them out of bad weather in the winter.
Rabbits can get heat stroke because they only sweat on the pads of their feet.
The only bigger danger than heat to outdoor rabbits is cold. A heater won't work for two reasons: the rabbits will huddle to it (and are more than likely to burn themselves), and it can also start a fire.
1-2. Design the cage.
A basic rabbit cage, also known as a hutch, is simple a box that is raised off the ground. Standard rabbit cages are made of wood and wire, and are big enough for the rabbits to sit up on their hind legs and to stretch out.
Decide on the height, width, and depth of the box of the cage. This is a good starting point for your design. Make your enclosure at least five feet deep by six feet long and tall enough for the rabbits to not hit their fuzzy heads on the roof when they jump. If more than one rabbit inhabits the space, make it a couple feet longer.
Decide how far off the ground the cage should be. To keep the rabbits from predators, make sure it is at least 3 feet off the ground.
The cage is usually long enough to have two sections, in order for the rabbits to have a separate sleeping section. The sleeping section should have solid sides, so that the rabbits can snuggle inside if the temperature gets cold.
The roof of the cage can also function as its door, with the roof attached on one side with hinges, so it can be lifted up. It should not be totally flat, as a pitched roof with an overhang will keep rain out more successfully.
There is no one way to design the cage but as long as the structure is secure and the inside is big enough for the rabbits, you are on the right path.
1-3. Gather tools.
You will need a saw and a drill, in addition to a staple gun and some snips to cut wire mesh. The saw and drill will help you make the frame and the staple gun and snips will help you to attach the wire to the frame.
Additionally you will need a tape measure and pencil to make measurements and mark them.
1-4. Gather materials.
A rabbit cage has all the basic things a house does: a roof, walls, and a floor. However, unlike a house, the roof of a rabbit cage can function as its door and the floor and some of the walls are usually made of wire mesh.
Get wire mesh that has gaps small enough so that the rabbits can't get their heads stuck in it. Steel works well, but there are many safe varieties (just make sure it is not lead).
You will also need enough wood to build the frame you have designed. While the size of the lumber doesn't really matter, it may be easiest to get basic 2 x 4 lumber from your local lumberyard or home improvement center. Add up all of the measurements from your design in order to figure out how much lumber you will need to build the cage frame.
You will also need a tight metal mesh for the bottom of your cage. While much of the floor will be covered in natural bedding material, such as hay, the floor underneath should not be solid. One reason for this is that a mesh floor allows urine to leave the cage, so your rabbit isn't sitting in it.
Materials for the roof should include plywood, roofing material, and hinges to attach the roof to the box of the cage. You will also need additional plywood to build a few solid walls on the cage.
Alternatively, you can buy an all wire cage from a pet store and then build a frame around it. This will allow you to completely remove the wire cage from the frame in order to clean it.
Some sources even suggest using wood pallets as the wood for your cage. You will need to take the pallet apart and reuse the pieces.
2. Constructing the Cage
2-1. Cut lumber for your frame.
Take the measurement of each piece from your design and then cut a corresponding piece of lumber. It may be easiest to number each piece on your design and then put the matching number on the pieces of lumber after you cut them.
2-2. Fasten the lumber of the frame together.
Work in an organized fashion. You can build the box of the cage first and then attach it to the supports it will sit on afterwords. Start with the box, fastening the pieces of lumber together with screws, so that the finished box is the size you desired.
Then build the supports for the box to sit on, making sure that it is tall enough and sturdy enough to keep the box, and bunnies, upright.
Remember that you should have an area that has solid sides, so that the rabbits can get away from cold weather and have a cozy place to sleep.
2-3. Cut and attach the wire mesh.
Make sure to cut the pieces of mesh so that they cover each opening in the frame you built completely. You should have four side pieces and one floor piece. Once you have cut all the pieces, grab a staple gun and start attaching the wire.
Make sure the rabbits can't slip through the gaps in the staples.
If you decided to buy a pre-made wire cage, simply slip it into the frame that you built. Make sure that the wire cage is secure and fits correctly.
2-4. Cut and attach wood for solid walls.
Your solid walls should be made of plywood and can be screwed directly to the framing of the cage on the outside. Your cage will need a few solid walls. The sleeping area of the hutch should have solid walls, so that your bunny can snuggle in and keep warm when the weather is cold.
You should also put a solid wall between the main area of the cage and the rabbit's sleeping area. This will ensure that the sleeping area is a completely protected space. You can use plywood for this wall as well but you will need to cut an opening in it that the bunny can easily get through.
2-5. Build and attach the roof.
Cut your plywood to completely cover the top of the cage. Screw the hinges onto the plywood and then onto the frame. Add roofing material to the top of the roof, making sure that the roof will be water tight.
You may want to put a security latch on the roof. This will keep the roof from blowing up in a strong wind or predators from opening up the top of the cage and getting your rabbits.
2-6. Add bedding material, toys, and containers for food and water.
You want to make the cage a cozy home for the rabbits, so it needs an abundant amount of bedding and food and water in order to settle in. Toys and other amenities are a plus that will help the rabbit thrive.
Once the hutch is all set up you can place the rabbit into its new cage.
Tips
Add lots of rabbit-safe toys. Bored rabbits can be destructive, so try to give them things to occupy their time and attention.
Warnings
If there are raccoons, birds, or other predators in your area make sure that the wire is thick enough to stop them from getting to your bunnies.
Rabbits require constant care and regular vet visits. You can't just put it outside in a cage and forget about it. Consider if a rabbit will be right for you or you may end up in a problem situation with your furry friend.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning an Outdoor Rabbit Cage\\n1-1. Find a well-shaded and protected area of your yard to place the cage in.\\nThis should be a spot that is best suited to your rabbit's needs. The location, in combination with the cage itself, will provide the shade the rabbit needs to keep from overheating in the summer and should also keep them out of bad weather in the winter.\\nRabbits can get heat stroke because they only sweat on the pads of their feet.\\nThe only bigger danger than heat to outdoor rabbits is cold. A heater won't work for two reasons: the rabbits will huddle to it (and are more than likely to burn themselves), and it can also start a fire.\\n1-2. Design the cage.\\nA basic rabbit cage, also known as a hutch, is simple a box that is raised off the ground. Standard rabbit cages are made of wood and wire, and are big enough for the rabbits to sit up on their hind legs and to stretch out.\\nDecide on the height, width, and depth of the box of the cage. This is a good starting point for your design. Make your enclosure at least five feet deep by six feet long and tall enough for the rabbits to not hit their fuzzy heads on the roof when they jump. If more than one rabbit inhabits the space, make it a couple feet longer.\\nDecide how far off the ground the cage should be. To keep the rabbits from predators, make sure it is at least 3 feet off the ground.\\nThe cage is usually long enough to have two sections, in order for the rabbits to have a separate sleeping section. The sleeping section should have solid sides, so that the rabbits can snuggle inside if the temperature gets cold.\\nThe roof of the cage can also function as its door, with the roof attached on one side with hinges, so it can be lifted up. It should not be totally flat, as a pitched roof with an overhang will keep rain out more successfully.\\nThere is no one way to design the cage but as long as the structure is secure and the inside is big enough for the rabbits, you are on the right path.\\n1-3. Gather tools.\\nYou will need a saw and a drill, in addition to a staple gun and some snips to cut wire mesh. The saw and drill will help you make the frame and the staple gun and snips will help you to attach the wire to the frame.\\nAdditionally you will need a tape measure and pencil to make measurements and mark them.\\n1-4. Gather materials.\\nA rabbit cage has all the basic things a house does: a roof, walls, and a floor. However, unlike a house, the roof of a rabbit cage can function as its door and the floor and some of the walls are usually made of wire mesh.\\nGet wire mesh that has gaps small enough so that the rabbits can't get their heads stuck in it. Steel works well, but there are many safe varieties (just make sure it is not lead).\\nYou will also need enough wood to build the frame you have designed. While the size of the lumber doesn't really matter, it may be easiest to get basic 2 x 4 lumber from your local lumberyard or home improvement center. Add up all of the measurements from your design in order to figure out how much lumber you will need to build the cage frame.\\nYou will also need a tight metal mesh for the bottom of your cage. While much of the floor will be covered in natural bedding material, such as hay, the floor underneath should not be solid. One reason for this is that a mesh floor allows urine to leave the cage, so your rabbit isn't sitting in it.\\nMaterials for the roof should include plywood, roofing material, and hinges to attach the roof to the box of the cage. You will also need additional plywood to build a few solid walls on the cage.\\nAlternatively, you can buy an all wire cage from a pet store and then build a frame around it. This will allow you to completely remove the wire cage from the frame in order to clean it.\\nSome sources even suggest using wood pallets as the wood for your cage. You will need to take the pallet apart and reuse the pieces.\\n2. Constructing the Cage\\n2-1. Cut lumber for your frame.\\nTake the measurement of each piece from your design and then cut a corresponding piece of lumber. It may be easiest to number each piece on your design and then put the matching number on the pieces of lumber after you cut them.\\n2-2. Fasten the lumber of the frame together.\\nWork in an organized fashion. You can build the box of the cage first and then attach it to the supports it will sit on afterwords. Start with the box, fastening the pieces of lumber together with screws, so that the finished box is the size you desired.\\nThen build the supports for the box to sit on, making sure that it is tall enough and sturdy enough to keep the box, and bunnies, upright.\\nRemember that you should have an area that has solid sides, so that the rabbits can get away from cold weather and have a cozy place to sleep.\\n2-3. Cut and attach the wire mesh.\\nMake sure to cut the pieces of mesh so that they cover each opening in the frame you built completely. You should have four side pieces and one floor piece. Once you have cut all the pieces, grab a staple gun and start attaching the wire.\\nMake sure the rabbits can't slip through the gaps in the staples.\\nIf you decided to buy a pre-made wire cage, simply slip it into the frame that you built. Make sure that the wire cage is secure and fits correctly.\\n2-4. Cut and attach wood for solid walls.\\nYour solid walls should be made of plywood and can be screwed directly to the framing of the cage on the outside. Your cage will need a few solid walls. The sleeping area of the hutch should have solid walls, so that your bunny can snuggle in and keep warm when the weather is cold.\\nYou should also put a solid wall between the main area of the cage and the rabbit's sleeping area. This will ensure that the sleeping area is a completely protected space. You can use plywood for this wall as well but you will need to cut an opening in it that the bunny can easily get through.\\n2-5. Build and attach the roof.\\nCut your plywood to completely cover the top of the cage. Screw the hinges onto the plywood and then onto the frame. Add roofing material to the top of the roof, making sure that the roof will be water tight.\\nYou may want to put a security latch on the roof. This will keep the roof from blowing up in a strong wind or predators from opening up the top of the cage and getting your rabbits.\\n2-6. Add bedding material, toys, and containers for food and water.\\nYou want to make the cage a cozy home for the rabbits, so it needs an abundant amount of bedding and food and water in order to settle in. Toys and other amenities are a plus that will help the rabbit thrive.\\nOnce the hutch is all set up you can place the rabbit into its new cage.\\nTips\\nAdd lots of rabbit-safe toys. Bored rabbits can be destructive, so try to give them things to occupy their time and attention.\\nWarnings\\nIf there are raccoons, birds, or other predators in your area make sure that the wire is thick enough to stop them from getting to your bunnies.\\nRabbits require constant care and regular vet visits. You can't just put it outside in a cage and forget about it. Consider if a rabbit will be right for you or you may end up in a problem situation with your furry friend.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Does your rabbit need a nice space to live in outdoors? In order to construct a rabbit cage outside you will need some basic building tools and materials and some do-it-yourself know how. With a little bit of effort and time you can make a well-constructed rabbit's cage that will help your rabbit live a happy and healthy life outside for years to come.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning an Outdoor Rabbit Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a well-shaded and protected area of your yard to place the cage in.\", \"描述\": \"This should be a spot that is best suited to your rabbit's needs. The location, in combination with the cage itself, will provide the shade the rabbit needs to keep from overheating in the summer and should also keep them out of bad weather in the winter.\\nRabbits can get heat stroke because they only sweat on the pads of their feet.\\nThe only bigger danger than heat to outdoor rabbits is cold. A heater won't work for two reasons: the rabbits will huddle to it (and are more than likely to burn themselves), and it can also start a fire.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design the cage.\", \"描述\": \"A basic rabbit cage, also known as a hutch, is simple a box that is raised off the ground. Standard rabbit cages are made of wood and wire, and are big enough for the rabbits to sit up on their hind legs and to stretch out.\\nDecide on the height, width, and depth of the box of the cage. This is a good starting point for your design. Make your enclosure at least five feet deep by six feet long and tall enough for the rabbits to not hit their fuzzy heads on the roof when they jump. If more than one rabbit inhabits the space, make it a couple feet longer.\\nDecide how far off the ground the cage should be. To keep the rabbits from predators, make sure it is at least 3 feet off the ground.\\nThe cage is usually long enough to have two sections, in order for the rabbits to have a separate sleeping section. The sleeping section should have solid sides, so that the rabbits can snuggle inside if the temperature gets cold.\\nThe roof of the cage can also function as its door, with the roof attached on one side with hinges, so it can be lifted up. It should not be totally flat, as a pitched roof with an overhang will keep rain out more successfully.\\nThere is no one way to design the cage but as long as the structure is secure and the inside is big enough for the rabbits, you are on the right path.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather tools.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a saw and a drill, in addition to a staple gun and some snips to cut wire mesh. The saw and drill will help you make the frame and the staple gun and snips will help you to attach the wire to the frame.\\nAdditionally you will need a tape measure and pencil to make measurements and mark them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather materials.\", \"描述\": \"A rabbit cage has all the basic things a house does: a roof, walls, and a floor. However, unlike a house, the roof of a rabbit cage can function as its door and the floor and some of the walls are usually made of wire mesh.\\nGet wire mesh that has gaps small enough so that the rabbits can't get their heads stuck in it. Steel works well, but there are many safe varieties (just make sure it is not lead).\\nYou will also need enough wood to build the frame you have designed. While the size of the lumber doesn't really matter, it may be easiest to get basic 2 x 4 lumber from your local lumberyard or home improvement center. Add up all of the measurements from your design in order to figure out how much lumber you will need to build the cage frame.\\nYou will also need a tight metal mesh for the bottom of your cage. While much of the floor will be covered in natural bedding material, such as hay, the floor underneath should not be solid. One reason for this is that a mesh floor allows urine to leave the cage, so your rabbit isn't sitting in it.\\nMaterials for the roof should include plywood, roofing material, and hinges to attach the roof to the box of the cage. You will also need additional plywood to build a few solid walls on the cage.\\nAlternatively, you can buy an all wire cage from a pet store and then build a frame around it. This will allow you to completely remove the wire cage from the frame in order to clean it.\\nSome sources even suggest using wood pallets as the wood for your cage. You will need to take the pallet apart and reuse the pieces.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Cage\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut lumber for your frame.\", \"描述\": \"Take the measurement of each piece from your design and then cut a corresponding piece of lumber. It may be easiest to number each piece on your design and then put the matching number on the pieces of lumber after you cut them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the lumber of the frame together.\", \"描述\": \"Work in an organized fashion. You can build the box of the cage first and then attach it to the supports it will sit on afterwords. Start with the box, fastening the pieces of lumber together with screws, so that the finished box is the size you desired.\\nThen build the supports for the box to sit on, making sure that it is tall enough and sturdy enough to keep the box, and bunnies, upright.\\nRemember that you should have an area that has solid sides, so that the rabbits can get away from cold weather and have a cozy place to sleep.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut and attach the wire mesh.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to cut the pieces of mesh so that they cover each opening in the frame you built completely. You should have four side pieces and one floor piece. Once you have cut all the pieces, grab a staple gun and start attaching the wire.\\nMake sure the rabbits can't slip through the gaps in the staples.\\nIf you decided to buy a pre-made wire cage, simply slip it into the frame that you built. Make sure that the wire cage is secure and fits correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut and attach wood for solid walls.\", \"描述\": \"Your solid walls should be made of plywood and can be screwed directly to the framing of the cage on the outside. Your cage will need a few solid walls. The sleeping area of the hutch should have solid walls, so that your bunny can snuggle in and keep warm when the weather is cold.\\nYou should also put a solid wall between the main area of the cage and the rabbit's sleeping area. This will ensure that the sleeping area is a completely protected space. You can use plywood for this wall as well but you will need to cut an opening in it that the bunny can easily get through.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build and attach the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your plywood to completely cover the top of the cage. Screw the hinges onto the plywood and then onto the frame. Add roofing material to the top of the roof, making sure that the roof will be water tight.\\nYou may want to put a security latch on the roof. This will keep the roof from blowing up in a strong wind or predators from opening up the top of the cage and getting your rabbits.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add bedding material, toys, and containers for food and water.\", \"描述\": \"You want to make the cage a cozy home for the rabbits, so it needs an abundant amount of bedding and food and water in order to settle in. Toys and other amenities are a plus that will help the rabbit thrive.\\nOnce the hutch is all set up you can place the rabbit into its new cage.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Add lots of rabbit-safe toys. Bored rabbits can be destructive, so try to give them things to occupy their time and attention.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If there are raccoons, birds, or other predators in your area make sure that the wire is thick enough to stop them from getting to your bunnies.\\n\", \"Rabbits require constant care and regular vet visits. You can't just put it outside in a cage and forget about it. Consider if a rabbit will be right for you or you may end up in a problem situation with your furry friend.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,672 |
How to Build an Outdoor Shower
|
1. Building a Working Showerhead
1-1. Choose a location with easy access to a hose or water source for your shower.
The most important part of an outdoor shower, of course, is the shower itself. While almost everyone wants an enclosure and/or floor to shower on. those looking for a simple rinse-off can simply install their outdoor shower head, run water to it, and call it a day. There are two ways to run water to your shower:
Using a garden hose and an outdoor water source, such as a lake or garden hose spigot.
Attaching your shower to the side of the house and tapping into the internal plumbing. Because this method is extremely difficult without experience and serious tools, this article will focus on the prior method.
1-2. Sketch out the rough design of your finished shower before getting to work.
You need to know how all of your pieces -- showerhead, floor, and walls -- fit together before you get building. You do not, for example, want to build the shower head and then realize that you cannot fit a floor around it. Go online and check out some examples, or draft up your own. You can even buy kits of pre-cut wood and flooring that are made for outdoor showers online if you want a simpler project.
1-3. Gather your supplies.
Again, there are a lot of different ways that you could build your outdoor shower, but this common list of supplies will be needed for the vast majority of projects and designs. You should have:
A garden hose that can reach your shower from the water source.
Three pieces of 1/2" thick galvanized piping.
Two pieces 36" long.
One piece 8" long
Appropriate garden hose to pipe adapter joints.
2 1/2" elbow joints
A ball valve or gate faucet and adapter to fit into your piping.
A rain-shower head.
C-shaped hangers or plumbing ties hold your pipe upright.
Plumbing tape.
1-4. Attach your garden hose to your water source.
Again, there are a few ways to pull this off. The most common way is to screw the hose into an outdoor spigot, allowing you to turn the water on and off with ease. You will then attach your hose to the end of the piping.
If you want to use a lake or pond to power your shower, you'll need an inline utility pump and a car or marine battery to pull water from the lake to your shower. A 12V self-priming pump is your best bet.
1-5. Attach and build your piping into the shower plumbing.
Use the joints to screw the piping together into one length, placing your ball valve/gate faucet in the center -- this will be your on/off switch. If you've never done plumbing before, don't worry too much about this project -- it is about as simple as it can get. Some tips include:
Place two elbow joints at the ends, each facing different directions. One is for your shower head, the other for the garden hose.
Be sure to seal each joint with nylon plumber's tape to prevent leakage, wrapping each joint 4-6 times.
Don't attach the hose or shower head just yet -- wait until you've finished the plumbing and attached the rods.
1-6. Construct and place your shower post.
If you're building a free-standing shower that isn't attached to your house, you'll need a way to hold the shower up. The most common way to do this is with a post. Use pressure-treated wood, purchasing a post that is roughly 8 feet tall. It can be either square or rounded -- just make sure your get the appropriate brackets for your post. If in any doubt, talk to a specialist at your home improvement store about your specific project. Once you have your post:
Dig a post hole at least 1-1/2 feet deep and three times as wide as your post.
Firmly implant the post in the ground.
Mix a 5lb bag of fast-setting concrete and pour it into the hole to set the post.
Wait 24-hours for the concrete to set.
1-7. Attach your piping to the post once the concrete has dried.
The most common way to do this is with c-shaped pipe hangers, and you should only need two of them. Adhere one near the top and one near the bottom to securely fasten the piping to your shower post. You could also use 4-6 pipe straps to hold the piping on.
Make sure that your elbow joints point the right way before continuing -- you need the top one to face into the shower and the bottom one needs to turn enough that you can fit the garden hose onto it.
1-8. Attach your garden hose to the bottom of the pipe.
For a more attractive design, you can drill a 1/2 hole into the bottom of the post, even with the bottom elbow joint. You can then feed the 8" galvanized pipe through the post, allowing you to attach the garden hose behind the shower post instead of to the side.
You'll likely need an adapter to fit the hose to your piping. This is called a "hose coupler."
1-9. Attach the showerhead and shower arm to the top of your pipe.
Once the entire array is hooked up, it's time to attach the shower head. Attach the shower arm to the top of the pipe, angle it to your desired location, then screw in the shower head. Turn on the water at the faucet and give the entire thing a test.
1-10. Consider alternate methods of holding up your shower.
There are tons of great DIY shower ideas on the internet, and you should do some exploring to see if you can get away with a less conventional set-up for your outdoor shower. Some ideas include:
Attaching the shower head to a wooden fence, tree, or other already created post.
Attaching the head to an overhang or wall with a simple bracket or wooden board.
Attach the head to something decorative, like an old surfboard, for a unique look.
2. Building Floors and Walls
2-1. Consider how much drainage you'll need when constructing the floor and walls.
If you're only running cold water to your shower, chances are good you won't be spending hours getting wet. As such, drainage should not be a major concern. Still, you need some layer between your feet and the ground, otherwise you'll end up with dirty, muddy feet after every shower.
2-2. Tramp down a thick layer of gravel for easy, cost-effective flooring.
Gravel is by far the most common bottom for outdoor showers. It is easy to install, looks good, and naturally drains away water if you take shorter showers. You can buy gravel, river pebbles, or small stone mixes depending on your aesthetic desires. To effectively install a gravel floor:
Smooth out the flooring the best you can.
Lay down your stones around the shower. For a more professional look, use half-buried 2x4s to create a simple enclosure around your shower that will hold the gravel in.
Use a tamper to press the gravel tightly together, leaving you with a smooth, regular floor.
2-3. Build a simple wood floor for a professional looking shower.
You'll need one 8-foot 4x4" piece of wood and one 8-foot 1x4" piece, both pressure treated. You'll use the first piece to build a square base for your floor, and the second piece to put together the drainable flooring. For a cheap, pre-made alternative, consider using a wooden pallet.
Cut one of the 4x4's into 4 even pieces, then screw them together into a simple square frame.
Cut a 1x4" into 7 individual pieces, each 26-1/2" long.
Place your 7 pieces onto your board starting on the edge, each piece parallel to the next. Leave a 1/4" space between each board for water to drain through.
Screw the floorboards into the wooden frame.
2-4. Use plywood or corrugated metal sheets with wooden posts for a simple, customizable wall.
The easiest way to make a shower wall is to set up four more posts (identical to the one holding up your piping) in the ground, then nail plywood sheets to the posts as walls. You can then attach decorative shingles, paint or stain the plywood, or add a door/curtain instead of wood for one of the sides.
2-5. Purchase pre-built outdoor shower walls for a professional, easy finish.
You can get a set of outdoor shower walls from a variety of places, and there are a lot of different sets out there that can make your life much easier. However, these sets can run up to $1,000, so it may be more cost-effective to build your own walls instead.
2-6. Use a curved shower curtain to build an easy wall around your shower.
This strategy, of course, only works if your shower is attached to a wall or fence. That said, a simple curved shower rod can cover up the other 3 sides and leave you an easy, breezy outdoor shower experience.
2-7. Stain and finish any wood so that it is waterproof.
An outdoor shower will be up against the elements, and regular water will warp and ruin wood if you don't take precautions. Use an outdoor sealant and finisher to protect your shower for years to come.
Tips
Most outdoor shower plans need to be adapted to your specific location and geography, so feel free to play with the plans listed here to find what works for you.
Warnings
Test the sturdiness of your posts with gentle pressure before getting in the shower, especially if you've never set posts before.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Working Showerhead\\n1-1. Choose a location with easy access to a hose or water source for your shower.\\nThe most important part of an outdoor shower, of course, is the shower itself. While almost everyone wants an enclosure and/or floor to shower on. those looking for a simple rinse-off can simply install their outdoor shower head, run water to it, and call it a day. There are two ways to run water to your shower:\\nUsing a garden hose and an outdoor water source, such as a lake or garden hose spigot.\\nAttaching your shower to the side of the house and tapping into the internal plumbing. Because this method is extremely difficult without experience and serious tools, this article will focus on the prior method.\\n1-2. Sketch out the rough design of your finished shower before getting to work.\\nYou need to know how all of your pieces -- showerhead, floor, and walls -- fit together before you get building. You do not, for example, want to build the shower head and then realize that you cannot fit a floor around it. Go online and check out some examples, or draft up your own. You can even buy kits of pre-cut wood and flooring that are made for outdoor showers online if you want a simpler project.\\n1-3. Gather your supplies.\\nAgain, there are a lot of different ways that you could build your outdoor shower, but this common list of supplies will be needed for the vast majority of projects and designs. You should have:\\nA garden hose that can reach your shower from the water source.\\nThree pieces of 1/2\\\" thick galvanized piping.\\nTwo pieces 36\\\" long.\\nOne piece 8\\\" long\\n\\nAppropriate garden hose to pipe adapter joints.\\n2 1/2\\\" elbow joints\\nA ball valve or gate faucet and adapter to fit into your piping.\\nA rain-shower head.\\nC-shaped hangers or plumbing ties hold your pipe upright.\\nPlumbing tape.\\n1-4. Attach your garden hose to your water source.\\nAgain, there are a few ways to pull this off. The most common way is to screw the hose into an outdoor spigot, allowing you to turn the water on and off with ease. You will then attach your hose to the end of the piping.\\nIf you want to use a lake or pond to power your shower, you'll need an inline utility pump and a car or marine battery to pull water from the lake to your shower. A 12V self-priming pump is your best bet.\\n1-5. Attach and build your piping into the shower plumbing.\\nUse the joints to screw the piping together into one length, placing your ball valve/gate faucet in the center -- this will be your on/off switch. If you've never done plumbing before, don't worry too much about this project -- it is about as simple as it can get. Some tips include:\\nPlace two elbow joints at the ends, each facing different directions. One is for your shower head, the other for the garden hose.\\nBe sure to seal each joint with nylon plumber's tape to prevent leakage, wrapping each joint 4-6 times.\\nDon't attach the hose or shower head just yet -- wait until you've finished the plumbing and attached the rods.\\n1-6. Construct and place your shower post.\\nIf you're building a free-standing shower that isn't attached to your house, you'll need a way to hold the shower up. The most common way to do this is with a post. Use pressure-treated wood, purchasing a post that is roughly 8 feet tall. It can be either square or rounded -- just make sure your get the appropriate brackets for your post. If in any doubt, talk to a specialist at your home improvement store about your specific project. Once you have your post:\\nDig a post hole at least 1-1/2 feet deep and three times as wide as your post.\\nFirmly implant the post in the ground.\\nMix a 5lb bag of fast-setting concrete and pour it into the hole to set the post.\\nWait 24-hours for the concrete to set.\\n1-7. Attach your piping to the post once the concrete has dried.\\nThe most common way to do this is with c-shaped pipe hangers, and you should only need two of them. Adhere one near the top and one near the bottom to securely fasten the piping to your shower post. You could also use 4-6 pipe straps to hold the piping on.\\nMake sure that your elbow joints point the right way before continuing -- you need the top one to face into the shower and the bottom one needs to turn enough that you can fit the garden hose onto it.\\n1-8. Attach your garden hose to the bottom of the pipe.\\nFor a more attractive design, you can drill a 1/2 hole into the bottom of the post, even with the bottom elbow joint. You can then feed the 8\\\" galvanized pipe through the post, allowing you to attach the garden hose behind the shower post instead of to the side.\\nYou'll likely need an adapter to fit the hose to your piping. This is called a \\\"hose coupler.\\\"\\n1-9. Attach the showerhead and shower arm to the top of your pipe.\\nOnce the entire array is hooked up, it's time to attach the shower head. Attach the shower arm to the top of the pipe, angle it to your desired location, then screw in the shower head. Turn on the water at the faucet and give the entire thing a test.\\n1-10. Consider alternate methods of holding up your shower.\\nThere are tons of great DIY shower ideas on the internet, and you should do some exploring to see if you can get away with a less conventional set-up for your outdoor shower. Some ideas include:\\nAttaching the shower head to a wooden fence, tree, or other already created post.\\nAttaching the head to an overhang or wall with a simple bracket or wooden board.\\nAttach the head to something decorative, like an old surfboard, for a unique look.\\n2. Building Floors and Walls\\n2-1. Consider how much drainage you'll need when constructing the floor and walls.\\nIf you're only running cold water to your shower, chances are good you won't be spending hours getting wet. As such, drainage should not be a major concern. Still, you need some layer between your feet and the ground, otherwise you'll end up with dirty, muddy feet after every shower.\\n2-2. Tramp down a thick layer of gravel for easy, cost-effective flooring.\\nGravel is by far the most common bottom for outdoor showers. It is easy to install, looks good, and naturally drains away water if you take shorter showers. You can buy gravel, river pebbles, or small stone mixes depending on your aesthetic desires. To effectively install a gravel floor:\\nSmooth out the flooring the best you can.\\nLay down your stones around the shower. For a more professional look, use half-buried 2x4s to create a simple enclosure around your shower that will hold the gravel in.\\nUse a tamper to press the gravel tightly together, leaving you with a smooth, regular floor.\\n2-3. Build a simple wood floor for a professional looking shower.\\nYou'll need one 8-foot 4x4\\\" piece of wood and one 8-foot 1x4\\\" piece, both pressure treated. You'll use the first piece to build a square base for your floor, and the second piece to put together the drainable flooring. For a cheap, pre-made alternative, consider using a wooden pallet.\\nCut one of the 4x4's into 4 even pieces, then screw them together into a simple square frame.\\nCut a 1x4\\\" into 7 individual pieces, each 26-1/2\\\" long.\\nPlace your 7 pieces onto your board starting on the edge, each piece parallel to the next. Leave a 1/4\\\" space between each board for water to drain through.\\nScrew the floorboards into the wooden frame.\\n2-4. Use plywood or corrugated metal sheets with wooden posts for a simple, customizable wall.\\nThe easiest way to make a shower wall is to set up four more posts (identical to the one holding up your piping) in the ground, then nail plywood sheets to the posts as walls. You can then attach decorative shingles, paint or stain the plywood, or add a door/curtain instead of wood for one of the sides.\\n2-5. Purchase pre-built outdoor shower walls for a professional, easy finish.\\nYou can get a set of outdoor shower walls from a variety of places, and there are a lot of different sets out there that can make your life much easier. However, these sets can run up to $1,000, so it may be more cost-effective to build your own walls instead.\\n2-6. Use a curved shower curtain to build an easy wall around your shower.\\nThis strategy, of course, only works if your shower is attached to a wall or fence. That said, a simple curved shower rod can cover up the other 3 sides and leave you an easy, breezy outdoor shower experience.\\n2-7. Stain and finish any wood so that it is waterproof.\\nAn outdoor shower will be up against the elements, and regular water will warp and ruin wood if you don't take precautions. Use an outdoor sealant and finisher to protect your shower for years to come.\\nTips\\nMost outdoor shower plans need to be adapted to your specific location and geography, so feel free to play with the plans listed here to find what works for you.\\nWarnings\\nTest the sturdiness of your posts with gentle pressure before getting in the shower, especially if you've never set posts before.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There is nothing like an outdoor shower on a hot day. Whether you just want to rinse off before entering the house or want to enjoy a nice shower under the stars, everyone can love an outdoor shower. Also, since they come in so many varieties and styles, they are easy to adapt and build as long as you plan ahead and study up on some basic plumbing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Working Showerhead\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a location with easy access to a hose or water source for your shower.\", \"描述\": \"The most important part of an outdoor shower, of course, is the shower itself. While almost everyone wants an enclosure and/or floor to shower on. those looking for a simple rinse-off can simply install their outdoor shower head, run water to it, and call it a day. There are two ways to run water to your shower:\\nUsing a garden hose and an outdoor water source, such as a lake or garden hose spigot.\\nAttaching your shower to the side of the house and tapping into the internal plumbing. Because this method is extremely difficult without experience and serious tools, this article will focus on the prior method.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sketch out the rough design of your finished shower before getting to work.\", \"描述\": \"You need to know how all of your pieces -- showerhead, floor, and walls -- fit together before you get building. You do not, for example, want to build the shower head and then realize that you cannot fit a floor around it. Go online and check out some examples, or draft up your own. You can even buy kits of pre-cut wood and flooring that are made for outdoor showers online if you want a simpler project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Again, there are a lot of different ways that you could build your outdoor shower, but this common list of supplies will be needed for the vast majority of projects and designs. You should have:\\nA garden hose that can reach your shower from the water source.\\nThree pieces of 1/2\\\" thick galvanized piping.\\nTwo pieces 36\\\" long.\\nOne piece 8\\\" long\\n\\nAppropriate garden hose to pipe adapter joints.\\n2 1/2\\\" elbow joints\\nA ball valve or gate faucet and adapter to fit into your piping.\\nA rain-shower head.\\nC-shaped hangers or plumbing ties hold your pipe upright.\\nPlumbing tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your garden hose to your water source.\", \"描述\": \"Again, there are a few ways to pull this off. The most common way is to screw the hose into an outdoor spigot, allowing you to turn the water on and off with ease. You will then attach your hose to the end of the piping.\\nIf you want to use a lake or pond to power your shower, you'll need an inline utility pump and a car or marine battery to pull water from the lake to your shower. A 12V self-priming pump is your best bet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach and build your piping into the shower plumbing.\", \"描述\": \"Use the joints to screw the piping together into one length, placing your ball valve/gate faucet in the center -- this will be your on/off switch. If you've never done plumbing before, don't worry too much about this project -- it is about as simple as it can get. Some tips include:\\nPlace two elbow joints at the ends, each facing different directions. One is for your shower head, the other for the garden hose.\\nBe sure to seal each joint with nylon plumber's tape to prevent leakage, wrapping each joint 4-6 times.\\nDon't attach the hose or shower head just yet -- wait until you've finished the plumbing and attached the rods.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Construct and place your shower post.\", \"描述\": \"If you're building a free-standing shower that isn't attached to your house, you'll need a way to hold the shower up. The most common way to do this is with a post. Use pressure-treated wood, purchasing a post that is roughly 8 feet tall. It can be either square or rounded -- just make sure your get the appropriate brackets for your post. If in any doubt, talk to a specialist at your home improvement store about your specific project. Once you have your post:\\nDig a post hole at least 1-1/2 feet deep and three times as wide as your post.\\nFirmly implant the post in the ground.\\nMix a 5lb bag of fast-setting concrete and pour it into the hole to set the post.\\nWait 24-hours for the concrete to set.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach your piping to the post once the concrete has dried.\", \"描述\": \"The most common way to do this is with c-shaped pipe hangers, and you should only need two of them. Adhere one near the top and one near the bottom to securely fasten the piping to your shower post. You could also use 4-6 pipe straps to hold the piping on.\\nMake sure that your elbow joints point the right way before continuing -- you need the top one to face into the shower and the bottom one needs to turn enough that you can fit the garden hose onto it.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach your garden hose to the bottom of the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"For a more attractive design, you can drill a 1/2 hole into the bottom of the post, even with the bottom elbow joint. You can then feed the 8\\\" galvanized pipe through the post, allowing you to attach the garden hose behind the shower post instead of to the side.\\nYou'll likely need an adapter to fit the hose to your piping. This is called a \\\"hose coupler.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the showerhead and shower arm to the top of your pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Once the entire array is hooked up, it's time to attach the shower head. Attach the shower arm to the top of the pipe, angle it to your desired location, then screw in the shower head. Turn on the water at the faucet and give the entire thing a test.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Consider alternate methods of holding up your shower.\", \"描述\": \"There are tons of great DIY shower ideas on the internet, and you should do some exploring to see if you can get away with a less conventional set-up for your outdoor shower. Some ideas include:\\nAttaching the shower head to a wooden fence, tree, or other already created post.\\nAttaching the head to an overhang or wall with a simple bracket or wooden board.\\nAttach the head to something decorative, like an old surfboard, for a unique look.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Floors and Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider how much drainage you'll need when constructing the floor and walls.\", \"描述\": \"If you're only running cold water to your shower, chances are good you won't be spending hours getting wet. As such, drainage should not be a major concern. Still, you need some layer between your feet and the ground, otherwise you'll end up with dirty, muddy feet after every shower.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tramp down a thick layer of gravel for easy, cost-effective flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Gravel is by far the most common bottom for outdoor showers. It is easy to install, looks good, and naturally drains away water if you take shorter showers. You can buy gravel, river pebbles, or small stone mixes depending on your aesthetic desires. To effectively install a gravel floor:\\nSmooth out the flooring the best you can.\\nLay down your stones around the shower. For a more professional look, use half-buried 2x4s to create a simple enclosure around your shower that will hold the gravel in.\\nUse a tamper to press the gravel tightly together, leaving you with a smooth, regular floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a simple wood floor for a professional looking shower.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need one 8-foot 4x4\\\" piece of wood and one 8-foot 1x4\\\" piece, both pressure treated. You'll use the first piece to build a square base for your floor, and the second piece to put together the drainable flooring. For a cheap, pre-made alternative, consider using a wooden pallet.\\nCut one of the 4x4's into 4 even pieces, then screw them together into a simple square frame.\\nCut a 1x4\\\" into 7 individual pieces, each 26-1/2\\\" long.\\nPlace your 7 pieces onto your board starting on the edge, each piece parallel to the next. Leave a 1/4\\\" space between each board for water to drain through.\\nScrew the floorboards into the wooden frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use plywood or corrugated metal sheets with wooden posts for a simple, customizable wall.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to make a shower wall is to set up four more posts (identical to the one holding up your piping) in the ground, then nail plywood sheets to the posts as walls. You can then attach decorative shingles, paint or stain the plywood, or add a door/curtain instead of wood for one of the sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Purchase pre-built outdoor shower walls for a professional, easy finish.\", \"描述\": \"You can get a set of outdoor shower walls from a variety of places, and there are a lot of different sets out there that can make your life much easier. However, these sets can run up to $1,000, so it may be more cost-effective to build your own walls instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use a curved shower curtain to build an easy wall around your shower.\", \"描述\": \"This strategy, of course, only works if your shower is attached to a wall or fence. That said, a simple curved shower rod can cover up the other 3 sides and leave you an easy, breezy outdoor shower experience.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stain and finish any wood so that it is waterproof.\", \"描述\": \"An outdoor shower will be up against the elements, and regular water will warp and ruin wood if you don't take precautions. Use an outdoor sealant and finisher to protect your shower for years to come.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Most outdoor shower plans need to be adapted to your specific location and geography, so feel free to play with the plans listed here to find what works for you.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Test the sturdiness of your posts with gentle pressure before getting in the shower, especially if you've never set posts before.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,673 |
How to Build an Outdoor Storage Bench
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1. Cutting Your Lumber
1-1. Buy pressure-treated wood made for exterior use.
Pressure-treated lumber is more condensed, so won’t rot or absorb moisture as easily as untreated wood. Choose woods like cedar, treated pine, and treated poplar to make your bench the most durable. Visit your local home improvement store or lumberyard to buy:
1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 6 ft (1.8 m) long (7)
2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)
1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)
1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)
1-2. Trim frames from 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards with a circular saw.
Put on safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to keep your eyes protected. Measure out 6 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 inches (40 cm) long with a measuring tape. Label the boards “Frame” with a pencil so you know what to use them for later.
Always double-check your measurements before making your cut so you don’t accidentally cut them too long or short.
You can seriously injure yourself with a circular saw, so work carefully and ask for help if you don’t know how to work one properly.
1-3. Cut the 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards for the side panels.
Measure and mark 9 lengths of board so they’re 35 ⁄4 in (91 cm) long. Carefully cut the pieces out with your saw and label them with “Front/Back Panel” before setting them aside. Then, measure and cut an additional 10 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 in (40 cm). Write “Side Panel” on each board.
The panels wrap around the sides and form the lid of your bench so it has a uniform appearance.
1-4. Saw the cleats and floor slats from your 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) boards.
Measure out 2 lengths of board that are 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) long and mark them. Make straight cuts through each of your marks using your circular saw. Label the pieces “Cleats” and set them aside. Then, trim 2 more lengths that are 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) and label them “Slats.”
The cleats and floor slats support the weight of the items you’re storing so they’re off the ground.
1-5. Cut the 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) boards down for the lid supports.
Use your measuring tape and a pencil to mark 2 lengths of board that are each 15 ⁄2 in (39 cm) long. Trim along your marks to cut the pieces down to size. Write “Lid support” on each piece so you don’t forget where it goes.
The lid supports hold the boards together and prevent the lid from warping.
1-6. Apply an end-cut sealer to any of the sawn ends of your lumber.
Dip a paintbrush into a container of end-cut sealer to wet the bristles. Brush a thin layer of the sealer onto any rough edges that you just cut. Let the end-cut sealer dry completely for about 1–3 hours before working with your wood again.
You can buy end-cut sealer from your local hardware store.
If you leave the rough edges untreated, they could split or crack as they dry out.
2. Creating the Bench
2-1. Construct U-shaped frames using your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) pieces.
Place 3 of your frame pieces on your work surface so they’re standing on their long narrow ends. Place one of the boards horizontally and align the other 2 vertically so they’re flush with the ends of the first board. Put 2 screws that are 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) long through the face of the horizontal board on each end so they go into the vertical boards. Repeat the process with your other frame pieces to make the second frame.
The horizontal board becomes the top of your bench and the open ends of the vertical boards are feet that keep your bench elevated from the ground.
2-2. Attach the side panels to the faces of the frames.
Lay the first side panel board flat on the long narrow edges of the vertical supports so the ends are flush with the frame. Position the board so it extends past the top of the frame by ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm). Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long at each end. Position the next 2 side panels directly below the first one and secure them the same way. Attach 3 more side panels to the second frame piece.
The bottoms of the frames are still visible in the final build.
2-3. Connect the front and back panels to the sides of your end frames.
Align the first front panel so it covers the end of the top side panel and is flush with the top. Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long. Line up the other end of the panel with the top of the other frame piece and attach it the same way. Add 2 more panel pieces to the front and attach them the same way. Flip the bench over to the back and attach 3 more of the panels.
If any of your panels have knots or deformations, hide them on the inside of the bench so they aren’t exposed.
2-4. Screw the cleats flush with the bottoms of the bench’s side panels.
Turn your bench over so it lies on the front or back. Position your 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) cleat pieces on the frame pieces inside the bench so it lines up with bottoms of the side panels. Secure 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through the cleat and into the frame. Flip your bench over and attach the other cleat to the other side.
Avoid putting the cleats flush with the bottoms of the frames, or else they’ll be visible from the outside.
2-5. Screw the floor slats and remaining end panels to the tops of the cleats.
Turn your bench over so it’s right-side up. Position the 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) pieces on top of the cleats so they’re between the frame pieces. Attach 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through each end of the cleats so they stay in place. Lay your 4 leftover end panels on top of the cleats and space them evenly apart. Use 2 screws per end to attach them to the cleats.
Leave gaps between your floor slats so water from rain or a hose can drain out without pooling inside of your bench.
2-6. Staple hardware cloth to the cleats to keep animals out.
Hardware cloth is a type of wire fencing that adds an additional layer of security to your bench. Cut the hardware cloth with tin snips so it fits inside of your bench. Lay the hardware cloth flat on the slats and use a staple gun to secure it to your cleats and slats.
You can buy hardware cloth from your local home improvement store.
2-7. Construct the lid with the leftover boards and supports.
Lay your 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) lid supports on top of your frame pieces so they’re flush with the tops of the panels. Align your 3 remaining panel pieces on top of your bench so they’re flush with the sides, leaving even gaps between them. Secure 2 of your 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) screws through the face of each lid panel and into the support beneath it. Then, secure the other ends of the panels to the second support.
Be careful not to screw your lid into the frame pieces, or else you won’t be able to open your bench.
2-8. Screw hinges into the bottom side of the lid and back of the bench.
Position the hinges about a third of the way in from the ends of your lid so they evenly support its weight. Screw the sides of the hinges that swing open onto the bottom of the lid. Set the lid on top of your bench so all the edges are flush. Then secure the other halves of the hinges to the back of the bench so it’s on the outside.
2-9. Install eye hooks and chains inside the box and lid.
Screw an eye hook on the inside front corners of the end panels. Secure 2 more eye hooks onto the tops of the battens that are closest to the short ends of the bench. Open the lid on your bench so it’s pointing straight up. Secure a thin chain tightly between the corner eye hook and the one that’s on the batten on each side.
This takes some stress off of the hinges when you open the bench, but it doesn’t prevent the lid from falling down.
You can also use lid stays, which are pneumatic devices that prevent the lid from dropping down suddenly. Just screw the bottom to the side of the bench and the top to the batten.
3. Finishing and Decorating
3-1. Let the wood dry before adding any finishes.
Pressure-treated wood is slightly wet so it won’t accept stain or paint right away. It may take a few weeks or even months for your wood to completely dry. When the wood feels dry to the touch, flick drops of water onto it. If the wood absorbs the water, then it’s dry enough to finish. If the water beads on the surface, then keep waiting.
If you want to start painting or finishing sooner, purchase wood that’s kiln-dried after the treatment.
3-2. Paint or stain your bench if you want to make it a different color.
Use a finish that’s made for exterior use so it handles the elements better. Apply your finish when you have a few clear and sunny days so you don’t have to worry about rain. If you’re painting, apply a coat of primer and let it dry before putting on 1–2 layers of your paint. For stain, work from the top to the bottom to apply the color evenly.
You don’t need to paint or stain the inside of your bench.
3-3. Put cushions and pillows on your bench for a comfortable new seat.
While it’s okay to sit directly on the lid slats, put down a few extra outdoor cushions so it’s softer. If your bench is up against a wall, lean some pillows against it to use for a backrest. Just be sure to put the cushions and pillows away once you’re done using them.
You can buy cushions for outdoor furniture online or from home improvement stores.
3-4. Add casters to the feet if you want to move the bench easier.
Get a set of 4 casters and coupling nuts from your local hardware store. Use your drill to make holes that are the same diameter as the coupling nuts through the ends of the feet. Drive the coupling nuts into the holes with a mallet and screw the castors into them. That way, you can roll the bench around when you need to.
Lock the casters whenever you’re done moving your bench so it doesn’t roll anywhere on its own.
Install handles on the sides of the bench so it’s easier to pull around.
Tips
Place your items inside tote bins if you’re worried about them getting wet since this bench isn’t completely waterproof.[19]
X
Research source
Warnings
Always use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t injure yourself. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting Your Lumber\\n1-1. Buy pressure-treated wood made for exterior use.\\nPressure-treated lumber is more condensed, so won’t rot or absorb moisture as easily as untreated wood. Choose woods like cedar, treated pine, and treated poplar to make your bench the most durable. Visit your local home improvement store or lumberyard to buy:\\n1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 6 ft (1.8 m) long (7)\\n2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\\n1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\\n1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\\n1-2. Trim frames from 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards with a circular saw.\\nPut on safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to keep your eyes protected. Measure out 6 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 inches (40 cm) long with a measuring tape. Label the boards “Frame” with a pencil so you know what to use them for later.\\nAlways double-check your measurements before making your cut so you don’t accidentally cut them too long or short.\\nYou can seriously injure yourself with a circular saw, so work carefully and ask for help if you don’t know how to work one properly.\\n1-3. Cut the 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards for the side panels.\\nMeasure and mark 9 lengths of board so they’re 35 ⁄4 in (91 cm) long. Carefully cut the pieces out with your saw and label them with “Front/Back Panel” before setting them aside. Then, measure and cut an additional 10 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 in (40 cm). Write “Side Panel” on each board.\\nThe panels wrap around the sides and form the lid of your bench so it has a uniform appearance.\\n1-4. Saw the cleats and floor slats from your 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) boards.\\nMeasure out 2 lengths of board that are 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) long and mark them. Make straight cuts through each of your marks using your circular saw. Label the pieces “Cleats” and set them aside. Then, trim 2 more lengths that are 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) and label them “Slats.”\\nThe cleats and floor slats support the weight of the items you’re storing so they’re off the ground.\\n1-5. Cut the 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) boards down for the lid supports.\\nUse your measuring tape and a pencil to mark 2 lengths of board that are each 15 ⁄2 in (39 cm) long. Trim along your marks to cut the pieces down to size. Write “Lid support” on each piece so you don’t forget where it goes.\\nThe lid supports hold the boards together and prevent the lid from warping.\\n1-6. Apply an end-cut sealer to any of the sawn ends of your lumber.\\nDip a paintbrush into a container of end-cut sealer to wet the bristles. Brush a thin layer of the sealer onto any rough edges that you just cut. Let the end-cut sealer dry completely for about 1–3 hours before working with your wood again.\\nYou can buy end-cut sealer from your local hardware store.\\nIf you leave the rough edges untreated, they could split or crack as they dry out.\\n2. Creating the Bench\\n2-1. Construct U-shaped frames using your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) pieces.\\nPlace 3 of your frame pieces on your work surface so they’re standing on their long narrow ends. Place one of the boards horizontally and align the other 2 vertically so they’re flush with the ends of the first board. Put 2 screws that are 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) long through the face of the horizontal board on each end so they go into the vertical boards. Repeat the process with your other frame pieces to make the second frame.\\nThe horizontal board becomes the top of your bench and the open ends of the vertical boards are feet that keep your bench elevated from the ground.\\n2-2. Attach the side panels to the faces of the frames.\\nLay the first side panel board flat on the long narrow edges of the vertical supports so the ends are flush with the frame. Position the board so it extends past the top of the frame by ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm). Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long at each end. Position the next 2 side panels directly below the first one and secure them the same way. Attach 3 more side panels to the second frame piece.\\nThe bottoms of the frames are still visible in the final build.\\n2-3. Connect the front and back panels to the sides of your end frames.\\nAlign the first front panel so it covers the end of the top side panel and is flush with the top. Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long. Line up the other end of the panel with the top of the other frame piece and attach it the same way. Add 2 more panel pieces to the front and attach them the same way. Flip the bench over to the back and attach 3 more of the panels.\\nIf any of your panels have knots or deformations, hide them on the inside of the bench so they aren’t exposed.\\n2-4. Screw the cleats flush with the bottoms of the bench’s side panels.\\nTurn your bench over so it lies on the front or back. Position your 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) cleat pieces on the frame pieces inside the bench so it lines up with bottoms of the side panels. Secure 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through the cleat and into the frame. Flip your bench over and attach the other cleat to the other side.\\nAvoid putting the cleats flush with the bottoms of the frames, or else they’ll be visible from the outside.\\n2-5. Screw the floor slats and remaining end panels to the tops of the cleats.\\nTurn your bench over so it’s right-side up. Position the 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) pieces on top of the cleats so they’re between the frame pieces. Attach 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through each end of the cleats so they stay in place. Lay your 4 leftover end panels on top of the cleats and space them evenly apart. Use 2 screws per end to attach them to the cleats.\\nLeave gaps between your floor slats so water from rain or a hose can drain out without pooling inside of your bench.\\n2-6. Staple hardware cloth to the cleats to keep animals out.\\nHardware cloth is a type of wire fencing that adds an additional layer of security to your bench. Cut the hardware cloth with tin snips so it fits inside of your bench. Lay the hardware cloth flat on the slats and use a staple gun to secure it to your cleats and slats.\\nYou can buy hardware cloth from your local home improvement store.\\n2-7. Construct the lid with the leftover boards and supports.\\nLay your 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) lid supports on top of your frame pieces so they’re flush with the tops of the panels. Align your 3 remaining panel pieces on top of your bench so they’re flush with the sides, leaving even gaps between them. Secure 2 of your 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) screws through the face of each lid panel and into the support beneath it. Then, secure the other ends of the panels to the second support.\\nBe careful not to screw your lid into the frame pieces, or else you won’t be able to open your bench.\\n2-8. Screw hinges into the bottom side of the lid and back of the bench.\\nPosition the hinges about a third of the way in from the ends of your lid so they evenly support its weight. Screw the sides of the hinges that swing open onto the bottom of the lid. Set the lid on top of your bench so all the edges are flush. Then secure the other halves of the hinges to the back of the bench so it’s on the outside.\\n2-9. Install eye hooks and chains inside the box and lid.\\nScrew an eye hook on the inside front corners of the end panels. Secure 2 more eye hooks onto the tops of the battens that are closest to the short ends of the bench. Open the lid on your bench so it’s pointing straight up. Secure a thin chain tightly between the corner eye hook and the one that’s on the batten on each side.\\nThis takes some stress off of the hinges when you open the bench, but it doesn’t prevent the lid from falling down.\\nYou can also use lid stays, which are pneumatic devices that prevent the lid from dropping down suddenly. Just screw the bottom to the side of the bench and the top to the batten.\\n3. Finishing and Decorating\\n3-1. Let the wood dry before adding any finishes.\\nPressure-treated wood is slightly wet so it won’t accept stain or paint right away. It may take a few weeks or even months for your wood to completely dry. When the wood feels dry to the touch, flick drops of water onto it. If the wood absorbs the water, then it’s dry enough to finish. If the water beads on the surface, then keep waiting.\\nIf you want to start painting or finishing sooner, purchase wood that’s kiln-dried after the treatment.\\n3-2. Paint or stain your bench if you want to make it a different color.\\nUse a finish that’s made for exterior use so it handles the elements better. Apply your finish when you have a few clear and sunny days so you don’t have to worry about rain. If you’re painting, apply a coat of primer and let it dry before putting on 1–2 layers of your paint. For stain, work from the top to the bottom to apply the color evenly.\\nYou don’t need to paint or stain the inside of your bench.\\n3-3. Put cushions and pillows on your bench for a comfortable new seat.\\nWhile it’s okay to sit directly on the lid slats, put down a few extra outdoor cushions so it’s softer. If your bench is up against a wall, lean some pillows against it to use for a backrest. Just be sure to put the cushions and pillows away once you’re done using them.\\nYou can buy cushions for outdoor furniture online or from home improvement stores.\\n3-4. Add casters to the feet if you want to move the bench easier.\\nGet a set of 4 casters and coupling nuts from your local hardware store. Use your drill to make holes that are the same diameter as the coupling nuts through the ends of the feet. Drive the coupling nuts into the holes with a mallet and screw the castors into them. That way, you can roll the bench around when you need to.\\nLock the casters whenever you’re done moving your bench so it doesn’t roll anywhere on its own.\\nInstall handles on the sides of the bench so it’s easier to pull around.\\nTips\\nPlace your items inside tote bins if you’re worried about them getting wet since this bench isn’t completely waterproof.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nAlways use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t injure yourself. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Don’t you wish there was a convenient way to keep all of your outdoor supplies organized and safe? Well if you want a functional piece of furniture that also adds more outdoor seating, a storage bench will work perfectly in your yard. Storage benches are pretty basic to build and only require a few tools, so it should only take you about a day to finish your project. We’ll walk you through each step to make a durable storage bench so you’re able to keep your items safe and stowed away!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting Your Lumber\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy pressure-treated wood made for exterior use.\", \"描述\": \"Pressure-treated lumber is more condensed, so won’t rot or absorb moisture as easily as untreated wood. Choose woods like cedar, treated pine, and treated poplar to make your bench the most durable. Visit your local home improvement store or lumberyard to buy:\\n1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 6 ft (1.8 m) long (7)\\n2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\\n1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\\n1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trim frames from 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards with a circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"Put on safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to keep your eyes protected. Measure out 6 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 inches (40 cm) long with a measuring tape. Label the boards “Frame” with a pencil so you know what to use them for later.\\nAlways double-check your measurements before making your cut so you don’t accidentally cut them too long or short.\\nYou can seriously injure yourself with a circular saw, so work carefully and ask for help if you don’t know how to work one properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards for the side panels.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and mark 9 lengths of board so they’re 35 ⁄4 in (91 cm) long. Carefully cut the pieces out with your saw and label them with “Front/Back Panel” before setting them aside. Then, measure and cut an additional 10 pieces that are each 15 ⁄4 in (40 cm). Write “Side Panel” on each board.\\nThe panels wrap around the sides and form the lid of your bench so it has a uniform appearance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Saw the cleats and floor slats from your 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) boards.\", \"描述\": \"Measure out 2 lengths of board that are 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) long and mark them. Make straight cuts through each of your marks using your circular saw. Label the pieces “Cleats” and set them aside. Then, trim 2 more lengths that are 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) and label them “Slats.”\\nThe cleats and floor slats support the weight of the items you’re storing so they’re off the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) boards down for the lid supports.\", \"描述\": \"Use your measuring tape and a pencil to mark 2 lengths of board that are each 15 ⁄2 in (39 cm) long. Trim along your marks to cut the pieces down to size. Write “Lid support” on each piece so you don’t forget where it goes.\\nThe lid supports hold the boards together and prevent the lid from warping.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Apply an end-cut sealer to any of the sawn ends of your lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Dip a paintbrush into a container of end-cut sealer to wet the bristles. Brush a thin layer of the sealer onto any rough edges that you just cut. Let the end-cut sealer dry completely for about 1–3 hours before working with your wood again.\\nYou can buy end-cut sealer from your local hardware store.\\nIf you leave the rough edges untreated, they could split or crack as they dry out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Bench\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Construct U-shaped frames using your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Place 3 of your frame pieces on your work surface so they’re standing on their long narrow ends. Place one of the boards horizontally and align the other 2 vertically so they’re flush with the ends of the first board. Put 2 screws that are 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) long through the face of the horizontal board on each end so they go into the vertical boards. Repeat the process with your other frame pieces to make the second frame.\\nThe horizontal board becomes the top of your bench and the open ends of the vertical boards are feet that keep your bench elevated from the ground.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the side panels to the faces of the frames.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the first side panel board flat on the long narrow edges of the vertical supports so the ends are flush with the frame. Position the board so it extends past the top of the frame by ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm). Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long at each end. Position the next 2 side panels directly below the first one and secure them the same way. Attach 3 more side panels to the second frame piece.\\nThe bottoms of the frames are still visible in the final build.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect the front and back panels to the sides of your end frames.\", \"描述\": \"Align the first front panel so it covers the end of the top side panel and is flush with the top. Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long. Line up the other end of the panel with the top of the other frame piece and attach it the same way. Add 2 more panel pieces to the front and attach them the same way. Flip the bench over to the back and attach 3 more of the panels.\\nIf any of your panels have knots or deformations, hide them on the inside of the bench so they aren’t exposed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the cleats flush with the bottoms of the bench’s side panels.\", \"描述\": \"Turn your bench over so it lies on the front or back. Position your 34 ⁄4 in (88 cm) cleat pieces on the frame pieces inside the bench so it lines up with bottoms of the side panels. Secure 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through the cleat and into the frame. Flip your bench over and attach the other cleat to the other side.\\nAvoid putting the cleats flush with the bottoms of the frames, or else they’ll be visible from the outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the floor slats and remaining end panels to the tops of the cleats.\", \"描述\": \"Turn your bench over so it’s right-side up. Position the 12 ⁄4 in (32 cm) pieces on top of the cleats so they’re between the frame pieces. Attach 2 screws that are 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) long through each end of the cleats so they stay in place. Lay your 4 leftover end panels on top of the cleats and space them evenly apart. Use 2 screws per end to attach them to the cleats.\\nLeave gaps between your floor slats so water from rain or a hose can drain out without pooling inside of your bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Staple hardware cloth to the cleats to keep animals out.\", \"描述\": \"Hardware cloth is a type of wire fencing that adds an additional layer of security to your bench. Cut the hardware cloth with tin snips so it fits inside of your bench. Lay the hardware cloth flat on the slats and use a staple gun to secure it to your cleats and slats.\\nYou can buy hardware cloth from your local home improvement store.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Construct the lid with the leftover boards and supports.\", \"描述\": \"Lay your 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) lid supports on top of your frame pieces so they’re flush with the tops of the panels. Align your 3 remaining panel pieces on top of your bench so they’re flush with the sides, leaving even gaps between them. Secure 2 of your 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) screws through the face of each lid panel and into the support beneath it. Then, secure the other ends of the panels to the second support.\\nBe careful not to screw your lid into the frame pieces, or else you won’t be able to open your bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Screw hinges into the bottom side of the lid and back of the bench.\", \"描述\": \"Position the hinges about a third of the way in from the ends of your lid so they evenly support its weight. Screw the sides of the hinges that swing open onto the bottom of the lid. Set the lid on top of your bench so all the edges are flush. Then secure the other halves of the hinges to the back of the bench so it’s on the outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install eye hooks and chains inside the box and lid.\", \"描述\": \"Screw an eye hook on the inside front corners of the end panels. Secure 2 more eye hooks onto the tops of the battens that are closest to the short ends of the bench. Open the lid on your bench so it’s pointing straight up. Secure a thin chain tightly between the corner eye hook and the one that’s on the batten on each side.\\nThis takes some stress off of the hinges when you open the bench, but it doesn’t prevent the lid from falling down.\\nYou can also use lid stays, which are pneumatic devices that prevent the lid from dropping down suddenly. Just screw the bottom to the side of the bench and the top to the batten.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing and Decorating\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Let the wood dry before adding any finishes.\", \"描述\": \"Pressure-treated wood is slightly wet so it won’t accept stain or paint right away. It may take a few weeks or even months for your wood to completely dry. When the wood feels dry to the touch, flick drops of water onto it. If the wood absorbs the water, then it’s dry enough to finish. If the water beads on the surface, then keep waiting.\\nIf you want to start painting or finishing sooner, purchase wood that’s kiln-dried after the treatment.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain your bench if you want to make it a different color.\", \"描述\": \"Use a finish that’s made for exterior use so it handles the elements better. Apply your finish when you have a few clear and sunny days so you don’t have to worry about rain. If you’re painting, apply a coat of primer and let it dry before putting on 1–2 layers of your paint. For stain, work from the top to the bottom to apply the color evenly.\\nYou don’t need to paint or stain the inside of your bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put cushions and pillows on your bench for a comfortable new seat.\", \"描述\": \"While it’s okay to sit directly on the lid slats, put down a few extra outdoor cushions so it’s softer. If your bench is up against a wall, lean some pillows against it to use for a backrest. Just be sure to put the cushions and pillows away once you’re done using them.\\nYou can buy cushions for outdoor furniture online or from home improvement stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add casters to the feet if you want to move the bench easier.\", \"描述\": \"Get a set of 4 casters and coupling nuts from your local hardware store. Use your drill to make holes that are the same diameter as the coupling nuts through the ends of the feet. Drive the coupling nuts into the holes with a mallet and screw the castors into them. That way, you can roll the bench around when you need to.\\nLock the casters whenever you’re done moving your bench so it doesn’t roll anywhere on its own.\\nInstall handles on the sides of the bench so it’s easier to pull around.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Place your items inside tote bins if you’re worried about them getting wet since this bench isn’t completely waterproof.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t injure yourself. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,674 |
How to Build an Outdoor Turtle Enclosure
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1. Planning Your Outdoor Enclosure
1-1. Keep the weather in mind.
You should only build an outdoor enclosure for your turtle if you live in an area that is relatively warm year round. A good rule of thumb is to see whether your turtle breed is native to similar climates. For instance, if you have a box turtle it’s a good idea to make sure that box turtles are native to your area before you plan an outdoor enclosure.
1-2. Balance size with functionality.
When it comes to outdoor enclosures, bigger is usually better, though a larger size will generally require more maintenance. The size of your yard, and the portion of your yard you’re willing to devote to the enclosure, will determine the size of your enclosure. Turtles do not grow to the size of their enclosure; their adult sizes are independent from the habitat they live in. You need to build a large enough enclosure for an adult turtle when you have a baby turtle.
You will need to build a larger enclosure if you intend to house multiple turtles there. A suitable size enclosure for three or four relatively small turtles, like box turtles, should be five feet by five feet in size.
1-3. Choose a semi-shaded area.
Turtles need direct sunlight both for their health and well-being. They also need a shaded area that they can retreat to whenever they feel the need to be out of the sun. Many people choose to build the enclosure next to their home or a shed, since this creates a shaded area for a portion of the day and acts as a fourth wall for the enclosure.
If you do choose to build along the side of your home, east and south facing walls are ideal locations since they receive sunlight early in the morning. This way, turtles can warm up after the night and it will mimic the daylight they’d receive in the wild.
Once you pick a spot, watch it for a whole day to see how much direct sunlight and shade it gets. If the spot doesn't get any shade, you'll need to build a couple shaded shelters for your turtle so it has somewhere to cool off.
2. Securing the Enclosure
2-1. Gather materials.
This enclosure will be 8 feet by 8 feet in size. You can choose to enlarge this pen, or change the specifications to fit your needs. This will be an enclosure that will comfortably house three or four small to medium size turtles. Use pressure treated wood since it will last longer. You should not use wood that has been treated with arsenic. Timber that is treated with ACQ (Ammoniacal Copper Quat) is good, while CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) should be avoided. You can find what the wood has been treated with on a tag that should be stapled to each piece of timber. For this portion of the project, you will need:
8-foot-long landscaping timbers
8-foot-long two-by-fours
3-foot-tall stakes.
2-foot-long two-by-two lumber
A box of nails for wood
Hammer
Measuring tape
Shovel
8 foot by 8 foot section of wire mesh
2-2. Clear and mark the area.
Clear any debris out of the area so you have a clean space to work. Use a measuring tape and some wooden stakes to mark out the area. This will be a square shaped pen.
2-3. Dig a trench at least one foot deep around the perimeter.
You need to dig a trench so you can put the walls down into the ground. Turtles are skilled diggers and can easily escape the enclosure if the walls are not deep enough.
2-4. Lay out the base timbers and attach corner supports.
With your trench dug, you will place one 8-foot-long landscaping timber into the each eight-foot long ditch. This will create a square shape, and the first part of your support wall. You will use the 2-foot-long two-by-two pieces of lumber to attach the walls at the corners.
Use the hammer to nail each corner together. The four corners should meet and be secure.
2-5. Add height to the walls.
Now that you have the corner supports attached, they will be significantly taller than the 8-foot-long landscaping timbers which are only a few inches tall when they are laid in the trenches. Using the 8-foot-long two-by-fours you will add height to the walls by nailing a two-by-four along each side to the two-by-two stakes. This will stack the timbers on top of each other and give height to the wall.
You can make the wall as tall as you’d like. The minimum height should be twice as high as the adult length of a turtle. So if you have turtles that reach 10” once they are mature, your wall should be at least 20” high. This ensures that your turtles can’t crawl over the walls and escape.
Turtles don’t fully grasp the concept of walls and when they are able to see out of the enclosure, like through wire mesh or glass walls, they may spend their time pushing against the barrier, hoping to escape. A wooden barrier, at least as tall as the turtle’s height, prevents this problem.
2-6. Use wire mesh to cover the enclosure.
An outdoor enclosure needs to let sunlight in but not any predators hoping to grab your turtle. Wire mesh is a good barrier since it allows sunlight and rain to fall through while still offering protection. nail the wire mesh directly to the top of the enclosure, but be sure to leave a corner accessible so you can put food and water into the enclosure.
You can also build a removable top to the enclosure, but this will take more time and additional materials.
3. Filling the Enclosure
3-1. Plan a habitat.
The ideal enclosure replicates their natural environment as closely as possible. However, the goal of the enclosure is to keep your turtles in and predators out so it won’t be able to completely mimic their natural habitat. Keep in mind that both aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles need a water and a land area.
Research your turtle's natural habitat so you can include the right kind of plants and adjust the water temperature if needed.
If your turtle's natural habitat has mostly water or mostly land, make sure their enclosure is similar.
3-2. Plant turtle friendly plants.
Plants are a great way to add hiding and sleeping areas for your turtles. It will also help to mimic their natural habitat, and make the enclosure more aesthetically pleasing. The types of plants you decide to add will depend on your climate, but make sure every plant is safe and non-toxic for turtles. You can keep the ground covered in grass, or you can add a substrate like mulch.
Some edible plants for your turtles include hibiscus, roses, geraniums, dandelions, mulberry trees, and pansies.
Do not use pesticides in your turtle enclosure.
3-3. Add rocks and logs.
Turtles are cold-blooded, so they need a place where they can bask in the sun and soak up its rays. They enjoy having logs, sticks, and rocks to climb over and then flatter stones or logs to rest and bask on. You can collect a variety of logs and stones to help your turtles feel at home.
3-4. Put some interactive toys and objects in your turtle's enclosure.
Giving your turtle something to occupy itself with will improve its quality of life. Rotate the toys out every once in a while so your turtle doesn't get bored of them. If it seems like your turtle doesn't like a particular toy, try offering it something else instead.
Put a rubber ball in the enclosure so your turtle has something to push around.
Give your turtle treat dispensing toys.
Place a couple hideaways in the enclosure.
4. Adding Water Features
4-1. Determine the size of your water feature.
All land and semi-aquatic turtles need a supply of clean, fresh water in their habitat. By creating a small pond, you provide your turtles with the water they need to swim, bathe, and drink. The size of your pond will depend on the number of turtles you want to have in the enclosure, and the space available. Pools should be large enough for turtles to exercise and move about freely. Take their adult length and multiple that number by 2.5; this is the minimum depth you’ll want the water to be. The length of the pool should be at least five times as large as their adult length. This gives them room to swim around and bask.
For ponds with multiple turtles, you need a larger pond. Smaller ponds accumulate waste and cannot be properly cleaned.
For land turtles, you want to create a shallow pond that is no deeper than a foot in the middle. The pond should have gently sloping sides so turtles can enter and exit the water easily.
4-2. Choose a semi-shaded area.
Direct sunlight can cause a small pond to heat to an unsafe temperature, and causes unwanted algae growth. Ideally, you want an area that has both shade and sun coverage during all times of day. Putting the pond alongside your house or a shed will provide sun coverage for several hours a day as well.
4-3. Dig a shallow pool.
When you’ve decided where you’d like the water feature to go, you can start to dig. It can be whatever shape you’d like, and the depth will depend on the sort of turtle you have. Red-eared sliders do better in deeper ponds, while others prefer shallower water. Research the type of water your turtle species inhabits in the wild to get a good idea of how deep your pond should be.
If you intend to have your aquatic turtles hibernate outdoors during the winter, the pool will need at least a foot of water below the ice to hibernate. Check your local area’s weather to see how thick the ice is in local ponds.
4-4. Lay down a pool liner.
You can purchase a pool liner online, from a large retailer, or from an outdoor good store. The liner will keep the water from seeping into the ground, which would become a big muddy mess. You will need to follow the manufacturer’s directions for the pool liner.
A concrete pool will last longer, but is a more complicated process to undergo. If you prefer to use a waterproof tarp, choose tan or canvas colored tarps instead of black. Black tarps absorb the sunlight and can overheat small pools.
4-5. Fill the pond with water.
Using a hose, you can now fill the pond with water. Make sure the water temperature is the same as it would be in your turtle's natural habitat.
Remember to change out and clean the water whenever it starts looking dirty.
4-6. Place logs around the pond.
Logs should be placed around the pond so that some can extend into the water. These help the turtles get in and out of the water, and it also provides them with a place to bask. Logs help to mimic the turtle’s natural habitats, and it also serves a decorative function.
Warnings
Do not build an outdoor enclosure for turtles that are unable to survive in your area’s climate. A tropical turtle will die quickly in an outdoor enclosure if you are in a cold climate.
Keep predators in mind when you are building the enclosure. You don’t want your turtles to be at risk so you may need to add extra safety precautions, like a removable top rather than a mesh wire cover.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Outdoor Enclosure\\n1-1. Keep the weather in mind.\\nYou should only build an outdoor enclosure for your turtle if you live in an area that is relatively warm year round. A good rule of thumb is to see whether your turtle breed is native to similar climates. For instance, if you have a box turtle it’s a good idea to make sure that box turtles are native to your area before you plan an outdoor enclosure.\\n1-2. Balance size with functionality.\\nWhen it comes to outdoor enclosures, bigger is usually better, though a larger size will generally require more maintenance. The size of your yard, and the portion of your yard you’re willing to devote to the enclosure, will determine the size of your enclosure. Turtles do not grow to the size of their enclosure; their adult sizes are independent from the habitat they live in. You need to build a large enough enclosure for an adult turtle when you have a baby turtle.\\nYou will need to build a larger enclosure if you intend to house multiple turtles there. A suitable size enclosure for three or four relatively small turtles, like box turtles, should be five feet by five feet in size.\\n1-3. Choose a semi-shaded area.\\nTurtles need direct sunlight both for their health and well-being. They also need a shaded area that they can retreat to whenever they feel the need to be out of the sun. Many people choose to build the enclosure next to their home or a shed, since this creates a shaded area for a portion of the day and acts as a fourth wall for the enclosure.\\nIf you do choose to build along the side of your home, east and south facing walls are ideal locations since they receive sunlight early in the morning. This way, turtles can warm up after the night and it will mimic the daylight they’d receive in the wild.\\nOnce you pick a spot, watch it for a whole day to see how much direct sunlight and shade it gets. If the spot doesn't get any shade, you'll need to build a couple shaded shelters for your turtle so it has somewhere to cool off.\\n2. Securing the Enclosure\\n2-1. Gather materials.\\nThis enclosure will be 8 feet by 8 feet in size. You can choose to enlarge this pen, or change the specifications to fit your needs. This will be an enclosure that will comfortably house three or four small to medium size turtles. Use pressure treated wood since it will last longer. You should not use wood that has been treated with arsenic. Timber that is treated with ACQ (Ammoniacal Copper Quat) is good, while CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) should be avoided. You can find what the wood has been treated with on a tag that should be stapled to each piece of timber. For this portion of the project, you will need:\\n8-foot-long landscaping timbers\\n8-foot-long two-by-fours\\n3-foot-tall stakes.\\n2-foot-long two-by-two lumber\\nA box of nails for wood\\nHammer\\nMeasuring tape\\nShovel\\n8 foot by 8 foot section of wire mesh\\n2-2. Clear and mark the area.\\nClear any debris out of the area so you have a clean space to work. Use a measuring tape and some wooden stakes to mark out the area. This will be a square shaped pen.\\n2-3. Dig a trench at least one foot deep around the perimeter.\\nYou need to dig a trench so you can put the walls down into the ground. Turtles are skilled diggers and can easily escape the enclosure if the walls are not deep enough.\\n2-4. Lay out the base timbers and attach corner supports.\\nWith your trench dug, you will place one 8-foot-long landscaping timber into the each eight-foot long ditch. This will create a square shape, and the first part of your support wall. You will use the 2-foot-long two-by-two pieces of lumber to attach the walls at the corners.\\nUse the hammer to nail each corner together. The four corners should meet and be secure.\\n2-5. Add height to the walls.\\nNow that you have the corner supports attached, they will be significantly taller than the 8-foot-long landscaping timbers which are only a few inches tall when they are laid in the trenches. Using the 8-foot-long two-by-fours you will add height to the walls by nailing a two-by-four along each side to the two-by-two stakes. This will stack the timbers on top of each other and give height to the wall.\\nYou can make the wall as tall as you’d like. The minimum height should be twice as high as the adult length of a turtle. So if you have turtles that reach 10” once they are mature, your wall should be at least 20” high. This ensures that your turtles can’t crawl over the walls and escape.\\nTurtles don’t fully grasp the concept of walls and when they are able to see out of the enclosure, like through wire mesh or glass walls, they may spend their time pushing against the barrier, hoping to escape. A wooden barrier, at least as tall as the turtle’s height, prevents this problem.\\n2-6. Use wire mesh to cover the enclosure.\\nAn outdoor enclosure needs to let sunlight in but not any predators hoping to grab your turtle. Wire mesh is a good barrier since it allows sunlight and rain to fall through while still offering protection. nail the wire mesh directly to the top of the enclosure, but be sure to leave a corner accessible so you can put food and water into the enclosure.\\nYou can also build a removable top to the enclosure, but this will take more time and additional materials.\\n3. Filling the Enclosure\\n3-1. Plan a habitat.\\nThe ideal enclosure replicates their natural environment as closely as possible. However, the goal of the enclosure is to keep your turtles in and predators out so it won’t be able to completely mimic their natural habitat. Keep in mind that both aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles need a water and a land area.\\nResearch your turtle's natural habitat so you can include the right kind of plants and adjust the water temperature if needed.\\nIf your turtle's natural habitat has mostly water or mostly land, make sure their enclosure is similar.\\n3-2. Plant turtle friendly plants.\\nPlants are a great way to add hiding and sleeping areas for your turtles. It will also help to mimic their natural habitat, and make the enclosure more aesthetically pleasing. The types of plants you decide to add will depend on your climate, but make sure every plant is safe and non-toxic for turtles. You can keep the ground covered in grass, or you can add a substrate like mulch.\\nSome edible plants for your turtles include hibiscus, roses, geraniums, dandelions, mulberry trees, and pansies.\\nDo not use pesticides in your turtle enclosure.\\n3-3. Add rocks and logs.\\nTurtles are cold-blooded, so they need a place where they can bask in the sun and soak up its rays. They enjoy having logs, sticks, and rocks to climb over and then flatter stones or logs to rest and bask on. You can collect a variety of logs and stones to help your turtles feel at home.\\n3-4. Put some interactive toys and objects in your turtle's enclosure.\\nGiving your turtle something to occupy itself with will improve its quality of life. Rotate the toys out every once in a while so your turtle doesn't get bored of them. If it seems like your turtle doesn't like a particular toy, try offering it something else instead.\\nPut a rubber ball in the enclosure so your turtle has something to push around.\\nGive your turtle treat dispensing toys.\\nPlace a couple hideaways in the enclosure.\\n4. Adding Water Features\\n4-1. Determine the size of your water feature.\\nAll land and semi-aquatic turtles need a supply of clean, fresh water in their habitat. By creating a small pond, you provide your turtles with the water they need to swim, bathe, and drink. The size of your pond will depend on the number of turtles you want to have in the enclosure, and the space available. Pools should be large enough for turtles to exercise and move about freely. Take their adult length and multiple that number by 2.5; this is the minimum depth you’ll want the water to be. The length of the pool should be at least five times as large as their adult length. This gives them room to swim around and bask.\\nFor ponds with multiple turtles, you need a larger pond. Smaller ponds accumulate waste and cannot be properly cleaned.\\nFor land turtles, you want to create a shallow pond that is no deeper than a foot in the middle. The pond should have gently sloping sides so turtles can enter and exit the water easily.\\n4-2. Choose a semi-shaded area.\\nDirect sunlight can cause a small pond to heat to an unsafe temperature, and causes unwanted algae growth. Ideally, you want an area that has both shade and sun coverage during all times of day. Putting the pond alongside your house or a shed will provide sun coverage for several hours a day as well.\\n4-3. Dig a shallow pool.\\nWhen you’ve decided where you’d like the water feature to go, you can start to dig. It can be whatever shape you’d like, and the depth will depend on the sort of turtle you have. Red-eared sliders do better in deeper ponds, while others prefer shallower water. Research the type of water your turtle species inhabits in the wild to get a good idea of how deep your pond should be.\\nIf you intend to have your aquatic turtles hibernate outdoors during the winter, the pool will need at least a foot of water below the ice to hibernate. Check your local area’s weather to see how thick the ice is in local ponds.\\n4-4. Lay down a pool liner.\\nYou can purchase a pool liner online, from a large retailer, or from an outdoor good store. The liner will keep the water from seeping into the ground, which would become a big muddy mess. You will need to follow the manufacturer’s directions for the pool liner.\\nA concrete pool will last longer, but is a more complicated process to undergo. If you prefer to use a waterproof tarp, choose tan or canvas colored tarps instead of black. Black tarps absorb the sunlight and can overheat small pools.\\n4-5. Fill the pond with water.\\nUsing a hose, you can now fill the pond with water. Make sure the water temperature is the same as it would be in your turtle's natural habitat.\\nRemember to change out and clean the water whenever it starts looking dirty.\\n4-6. Place logs around the pond.\\nLogs should be placed around the pond so that some can extend into the water. These help the turtles get in and out of the water, and it also provides them with a place to bask. Logs help to mimic the turtle’s natural habitats, and it also serves a decorative function.\\nWarnings\\nDo not build an outdoor enclosure for turtles that are unable to survive in your area’s climate. A tropical turtle will die quickly in an outdoor enclosure if you are in a cold climate.\\nKeep predators in mind when you are building the enclosure. You don’t want your turtles to be at risk so you may need to add extra safety precautions, like a removable top rather than a mesh wire cover.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building an outdoor enclosure for your turtle will take some time and planning. Once your enclosure is finished, your turtles will have a whole new area to explore and enjoy. An outdoor enclosure mimics a turtle’s environment more naturally and gives them access to the sunlight and vitamin D that they need to be healthy.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Outdoor Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep the weather in mind.\", \"描述\": \"You should only build an outdoor enclosure for your turtle if you live in an area that is relatively warm year round. A good rule of thumb is to see whether your turtle breed is native to similar climates. For instance, if you have a box turtle it’s a good idea to make sure that box turtles are native to your area before you plan an outdoor enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Balance size with functionality.\", \"描述\": \"When it comes to outdoor enclosures, bigger is usually better, though a larger size will generally require more maintenance. The size of your yard, and the portion of your yard you’re willing to devote to the enclosure, will determine the size of your enclosure. Turtles do not grow to the size of their enclosure; their adult sizes are independent from the habitat they live in. You need to build a large enough enclosure for an adult turtle when you have a baby turtle.\\nYou will need to build a larger enclosure if you intend to house multiple turtles there. A suitable size enclosure for three or four relatively small turtles, like box turtles, should be five feet by five feet in size.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a semi-shaded area.\", \"描述\": \"Turtles need direct sunlight both for their health and well-being. They also need a shaded area that they can retreat to whenever they feel the need to be out of the sun. Many people choose to build the enclosure next to their home or a shed, since this creates a shaded area for a portion of the day and acts as a fourth wall for the enclosure.\\nIf you do choose to build along the side of your home, east and south facing walls are ideal locations since they receive sunlight early in the morning. This way, turtles can warm up after the night and it will mimic the daylight they’d receive in the wild.\\nOnce you pick a spot, watch it for a whole day to see how much direct sunlight and shade it gets. If the spot doesn't get any shade, you'll need to build a couple shaded shelters for your turtle so it has somewhere to cool off.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Securing the Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather materials.\", \"描述\": \"This enclosure will be 8 feet by 8 feet in size. You can choose to enlarge this pen, or change the specifications to fit your needs. This will be an enclosure that will comfortably house three or four small to medium size turtles. Use pressure treated wood since it will last longer. You should not use wood that has been treated with arsenic. Timber that is treated with ACQ (Ammoniacal Copper Quat) is good, while CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) should be avoided. You can find what the wood has been treated with on a tag that should be stapled to each piece of timber. For this portion of the project, you will need:\\n8-foot-long landscaping timbers\\n8-foot-long two-by-fours\\n3-foot-tall stakes.\\n2-foot-long two-by-two lumber\\nA box of nails for wood\\nHammer\\nMeasuring tape\\nShovel\\n8 foot by 8 foot section of wire mesh\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear and mark the area.\", \"描述\": \"Clear any debris out of the area so you have a clean space to work. Use a measuring tape and some wooden stakes to mark out the area. This will be a square shaped pen.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig a trench at least one foot deep around the perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"You need to dig a trench so you can put the walls down into the ground. Turtles are skilled diggers and can easily escape the enclosure if the walls are not deep enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay out the base timbers and attach corner supports.\", \"描述\": \"With your trench dug, you will place one 8-foot-long landscaping timber into the each eight-foot long ditch. This will create a square shape, and the first part of your support wall. You will use the 2-foot-long two-by-two pieces of lumber to attach the walls at the corners.\\nUse the hammer to nail each corner together. The four corners should meet and be secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add height to the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Now that you have the corner supports attached, they will be significantly taller than the 8-foot-long landscaping timbers which are only a few inches tall when they are laid in the trenches. Using the 8-foot-long two-by-fours you will add height to the walls by nailing a two-by-four along each side to the two-by-two stakes. This will stack the timbers on top of each other and give height to the wall.\\nYou can make the wall as tall as you’d like. The minimum height should be twice as high as the adult length of a turtle. So if you have turtles that reach 10” once they are mature, your wall should be at least 20” high. This ensures that your turtles can’t crawl over the walls and escape.\\nTurtles don’t fully grasp the concept of walls and when they are able to see out of the enclosure, like through wire mesh or glass walls, they may spend their time pushing against the barrier, hoping to escape. A wooden barrier, at least as tall as the turtle’s height, prevents this problem.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use wire mesh to cover the enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"An outdoor enclosure needs to let sunlight in but not any predators hoping to grab your turtle. Wire mesh is a good barrier since it allows sunlight and rain to fall through while still offering protection. nail the wire mesh directly to the top of the enclosure, but be sure to leave a corner accessible so you can put food and water into the enclosure.\\nYou can also build a removable top to the enclosure, but this will take more time and additional materials.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Filling the Enclosure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan a habitat.\", \"描述\": \"The ideal enclosure replicates their natural environment as closely as possible. However, the goal of the enclosure is to keep your turtles in and predators out so it won’t be able to completely mimic their natural habitat. Keep in mind that both aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles need a water and a land area.\\nResearch your turtle's natural habitat so you can include the right kind of plants and adjust the water temperature if needed.\\nIf your turtle's natural habitat has mostly water or mostly land, make sure their enclosure is similar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plant turtle friendly plants.\", \"描述\": \"Plants are a great way to add hiding and sleeping areas for your turtles. It will also help to mimic their natural habitat, and make the enclosure more aesthetically pleasing. The types of plants you decide to add will depend on your climate, but make sure every plant is safe and non-toxic for turtles. You can keep the ground covered in grass, or you can add a substrate like mulch.\\nSome edible plants for your turtles include hibiscus, roses, geraniums, dandelions, mulberry trees, and pansies.\\nDo not use pesticides in your turtle enclosure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add rocks and logs.\", \"描述\": \"Turtles are cold-blooded, so they need a place where they can bask in the sun and soak up its rays. They enjoy having logs, sticks, and rocks to climb over and then flatter stones or logs to rest and bask on. You can collect a variety of logs and stones to help your turtles feel at home.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put some interactive toys and objects in your turtle's enclosure.\", \"描述\": \"Giving your turtle something to occupy itself with will improve its quality of life. Rotate the toys out every once in a while so your turtle doesn't get bored of them. If it seems like your turtle doesn't like a particular toy, try offering it something else instead.\\nPut a rubber ball in the enclosure so your turtle has something to push around.\\nGive your turtle treat dispensing toys.\\nPlace a couple hideaways in the enclosure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding Water Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the size of your water feature.\", \"描述\": \"All land and semi-aquatic turtles need a supply of clean, fresh water in their habitat. By creating a small pond, you provide your turtles with the water they need to swim, bathe, and drink. The size of your pond will depend on the number of turtles you want to have in the enclosure, and the space available. Pools should be large enough for turtles to exercise and move about freely. Take their adult length and multiple that number by 2.5; this is the minimum depth you’ll want the water to be. The length of the pool should be at least five times as large as their adult length. This gives them room to swim around and bask.\\nFor ponds with multiple turtles, you need a larger pond. Smaller ponds accumulate waste and cannot be properly cleaned.\\nFor land turtles, you want to create a shallow pond that is no deeper than a foot in the middle. The pond should have gently sloping sides so turtles can enter and exit the water easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a semi-shaded area.\", \"描述\": \"Direct sunlight can cause a small pond to heat to an unsafe temperature, and causes unwanted algae growth. Ideally, you want an area that has both shade and sun coverage during all times of day. Putting the pond alongside your house or a shed will provide sun coverage for several hours a day as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig a shallow pool.\", \"描述\": \"When you’ve decided where you’d like the water feature to go, you can start to dig. It can be whatever shape you’d like, and the depth will depend on the sort of turtle you have. Red-eared sliders do better in deeper ponds, while others prefer shallower water. Research the type of water your turtle species inhabits in the wild to get a good idea of how deep your pond should be.\\nIf you intend to have your aquatic turtles hibernate outdoors during the winter, the pool will need at least a foot of water below the ice to hibernate. Check your local area’s weather to see how thick the ice is in local ponds.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay down a pool liner.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase a pool liner online, from a large retailer, or from an outdoor good store. The liner will keep the water from seeping into the ground, which would become a big muddy mess. You will need to follow the manufacturer’s directions for the pool liner.\\nA concrete pool will last longer, but is a more complicated process to undergo. If you prefer to use a waterproof tarp, choose tan or canvas colored tarps instead of black. Black tarps absorb the sunlight and can overheat small pools.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill the pond with water.\", \"描述\": \"Using a hose, you can now fill the pond with water. Make sure the water temperature is the same as it would be in your turtle's natural habitat.\\nRemember to change out and clean the water whenever it starts looking dirty.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place logs around the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Logs should be placed around the pond so that some can extend into the water. These help the turtles get in and out of the water, and it also provides them with a place to bask. Logs help to mimic the turtle’s natural habitats, and it also serves a decorative function.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not build an outdoor enclosure for turtles that are unable to survive in your area’s climate. A tropical turtle will die quickly in an outdoor enclosure if you are in a cold climate.\\n\", \"Keep predators in mind when you are building the enclosure. You don’t want your turtles to be at risk so you may need to add extra safety precautions, like a removable top rather than a mesh wire cover.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,675 |
How to Build an RC Track
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1. Designing and Laying out the Track
1-1. Pick an area that is about 20 ft (6.1 m) by 20 ft (6.1 m) for the track.
Choose a grass or dirt area on your property that is approximately this big to give yourself enough space to build a fun track. Make sure that it’s OK to do some landscaping for your track there.
It’s fine to select an area that’s a little bit smaller or bigger, depending on the space you have available. Just keep in mind that a track much smaller than this won’t give you a lot of room to get creative, and a very large track can be hard to drive because you can’t see it all well.
1-2. Draw a blueprint of your track design.
Get a piece of paper and a pen or pencil and draw an outline of the space you chose for your track. Draw an outline of the lanes for the track inside the space in any shape you want, as long as it makes a full circuit.
For example, you could make the track a traditional oval shape with a long straightaway on either side and a U-shaped turn at each end. On the other hand, you could try something more complex with a straightaway on one side and S-curves on the other side. It’s totally up to you to get creative here!
You can draw multiple designs to put down some different ideas on paper, then choose the one that looks most fun and interesting to you.
1-3. Mark 5–7 ft (1.5–2.1 m) wide temporary lanes with string.
Lay string out on the ground to mark the lanes as you drew them in your blueprint. Stick twigs or nails into the ground at regular intervals and wrap the string around them to hold in in place temporarily.
If you’re just planning on running 1-2 RC cars at a time, 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) wide lanes should be big enough. If you want to race more cars than that at once, make the lanes 6–7 ft (1.8–2.1 m) wide.
1-4. Test drive the course to make sure the lane design works and is fun to drive.
Get out your favorite RC car and take it for a few spins around the temporary lanes you marked. Take note of things like corners that are too sharp or parts that are boring and make any alterations to the design that you want.
For example, you might decide to make a straightaway shorter and add an S-curve before a corner.
1-5. Install corrugated pipe with galvanized nails for the lane walls.
Remove the string and replace it with 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe once you’re happy with your lane design. Drive 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails through the pipe into the ground at regular intervals to hold it in place.
You can get 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe and 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails at a home improvement center.
2. Smoothing out the Track
2-1. Kill grass and weeds with weed killer.
Spray an environmentally safe weed killer onto the race track. Wait a day or two for the weeds and grass to die off before you proceed.
If the ground is just dirt already, you don’t need to do this.
2-2. Use the flat ads head side of a pickaxe to tear up any turf and weeds.
Hack away at the dead grass and weeds with the pickaxe to tear it up from the soil underneath. Set aside the turf in a pile somewhere outside of the track.
You can use some of the turf to fill in jumps and berms when you build them later on, so you don’t need to use as much soil.
You could also use a garden hoe to do this, if you don’t have a pickaxe with an ads head.
2-3. Level out the soil with a rake and tamper.
Rake along the entire track to even out the soil. Pack down the soil with a tamper to create a smooth, compact surface for your new race track.
A tamper is a heavy flat piece of metal attached to a long handle. To use one, just hold the flat metal part above the soil and drive it straight down into the ground. Let the weight of the tamper do most of the work or you’ll get tired very quickly!
3. Adding Jumps and Berms
3-1. Put jumps and berms where they won’t block water from draining away.
Look at the natural slopes of the land in and around the track. Avoid building berms or jumps where they will block water from flowing off the track.
A berm is a bank built into the outside edge of a corner.
For example, if there is a corner slightly downhill from the rest of the track, don’t build a berm here because it could trap water on the track. If there is a straightaway on a hill, don’t build a jump across the whole straightaway that could trap water on one side.
3-2. Build slanted berms in sharp outside corners using a shovel and topsoil.
Dump topsoil into the outside edge of a sharp corner up to about the level of the corrugated piping. Use the rounded backside of a shovel to pack it and shape it into a bank that your RC cars can go up to go around the corner at an angle.
Berms make sharp corners fun because you don’t have to slow down as much to go around them.
For example, if your track is an oval shape with a U-shaped turn at each end of the circuit, build a berm on the outside edge of each U-turn.
3-3. Make jumps on straightaways using a shovel and topsoil.
Dump enough topsoil onto a straightaway to build a small bump. Use a shovel to shape and pack it into a hard mound that your RC cars can go up to catch some air.
It’s up to you how big to build the jumps, but keep in mind that the bigger the jump is, the harder the landing will be on your RC cars. Start with something small like a 6 in (15 cm) high jump and test it out, then go bigger if you think your cars can handle it.
Depending how dry the soil is, it might help to water the jumps down, compact them, then add more soil and repeat the process until they are hard enough to keep their form.
You can make many different styles of jumps. For example, you could make a wide jump across a whole straightaway, so that all racers have to go over it, or build a narrow jump on one side of the straightaway so that it’s optional.
Keep in mind that an RC car needs about 1.5 times its length to land, so build jumps with a landing space that is 1.5 times longer than the largest car you plan to run on the track.
Tips
Always test drive your track design before you commit to building it to make sure it will work.
Build temporary jumps out of boards to test out different locations, angles, and sizes before you build permanent jumps.
Warnings
Avoid digging and removing soil from your track so that water doesn’t puddle in your track.
Always consider drainage when you’re building jumps and berms and avoid placing them where they will keep water from draining off the track.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:23",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Designing and Laying out the Track\\n1-1. Pick an area that is about 20 ft (6.1 m) by 20 ft (6.1 m) for the track.\\nChoose a grass or dirt area on your property that is approximately this big to give yourself enough space to build a fun track. Make sure that it’s OK to do some landscaping for your track there.\\nIt’s fine to select an area that’s a little bit smaller or bigger, depending on the space you have available. Just keep in mind that a track much smaller than this won’t give you a lot of room to get creative, and a very large track can be hard to drive because you can’t see it all well.\\n1-2. Draw a blueprint of your track design.\\nGet a piece of paper and a pen or pencil and draw an outline of the space you chose for your track. Draw an outline of the lanes for the track inside the space in any shape you want, as long as it makes a full circuit.\\nFor example, you could make the track a traditional oval shape with a long straightaway on either side and a U-shaped turn at each end. On the other hand, you could try something more complex with a straightaway on one side and S-curves on the other side. It’s totally up to you to get creative here!\\nYou can draw multiple designs to put down some different ideas on paper, then choose the one that looks most fun and interesting to you.\\n1-3. Mark 5–7 ft (1.5–2.1 m) wide temporary lanes with string.\\nLay string out on the ground to mark the lanes as you drew them in your blueprint. Stick twigs or nails into the ground at regular intervals and wrap the string around them to hold in in place temporarily.\\nIf you’re just planning on running 1-2 RC cars at a time, 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) wide lanes should be big enough. If you want to race more cars than that at once, make the lanes 6–7 ft (1.8–2.1 m) wide.\\n1-4. Test drive the course to make sure the lane design works and is fun to drive.\\nGet out your favorite RC car and take it for a few spins around the temporary lanes you marked. Take note of things like corners that are too sharp or parts that are boring and make any alterations to the design that you want.\\nFor example, you might decide to make a straightaway shorter and add an S-curve before a corner.\\n1-5. Install corrugated pipe with galvanized nails for the lane walls.\\nRemove the string and replace it with 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe once you’re happy with your lane design. Drive 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails through the pipe into the ground at regular intervals to hold it in place.\\nYou can get 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe and 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails at a home improvement center.\\n2. Smoothing out the Track\\n2-1. Kill grass and weeds with weed killer.\\nSpray an environmentally safe weed killer onto the race track. Wait a day or two for the weeds and grass to die off before you proceed.\\nIf the ground is just dirt already, you don’t need to do this.\\n2-2. Use the flat ads head side of a pickaxe to tear up any turf and weeds.\\nHack away at the dead grass and weeds with the pickaxe to tear it up from the soil underneath. Set aside the turf in a pile somewhere outside of the track.\\nYou can use some of the turf to fill in jumps and berms when you build them later on, so you don’t need to use as much soil.\\nYou could also use a garden hoe to do this, if you don’t have a pickaxe with an ads head.\\n2-3. Level out the soil with a rake and tamper.\\nRake along the entire track to even out the soil. Pack down the soil with a tamper to create a smooth, compact surface for your new race track.\\nA tamper is a heavy flat piece of metal attached to a long handle. To use one, just hold the flat metal part above the soil and drive it straight down into the ground. Let the weight of the tamper do most of the work or you’ll get tired very quickly!\\n3. Adding Jumps and Berms\\n3-1. Put jumps and berms where they won’t block water from draining away.\\nLook at the natural slopes of the land in and around the track. Avoid building berms or jumps where they will block water from flowing off the track.\\nA berm is a bank built into the outside edge of a corner.\\nFor example, if there is a corner slightly downhill from the rest of the track, don’t build a berm here because it could trap water on the track. If there is a straightaway on a hill, don’t build a jump across the whole straightaway that could trap water on one side.\\n3-2. Build slanted berms in sharp outside corners using a shovel and topsoil.\\nDump topsoil into the outside edge of a sharp corner up to about the level of the corrugated piping. Use the rounded backside of a shovel to pack it and shape it into a bank that your RC cars can go up to go around the corner at an angle.\\nBerms make sharp corners fun because you don’t have to slow down as much to go around them.\\nFor example, if your track is an oval shape with a U-shaped turn at each end of the circuit, build a berm on the outside edge of each U-turn.\\n3-3. Make jumps on straightaways using a shovel and topsoil.\\nDump enough topsoil onto a straightaway to build a small bump. Use a shovel to shape and pack it into a hard mound that your RC cars can go up to catch some air.\\nIt’s up to you how big to build the jumps, but keep in mind that the bigger the jump is, the harder the landing will be on your RC cars. Start with something small like a 6 in (15 cm) high jump and test it out, then go bigger if you think your cars can handle it.\\nDepending how dry the soil is, it might help to water the jumps down, compact them, then add more soil and repeat the process until they are hard enough to keep their form.\\nYou can make many different styles of jumps. For example, you could make a wide jump across a whole straightaway, so that all racers have to go over it, or build a narrow jump on one side of the straightaway so that it’s optional.\\nKeep in mind that an RC car needs about 1.5 times its length to land, so build jumps with a landing space that is 1.5 times longer than the largest car you plan to run on the track.\\nTips\\nAlways test drive your track design before you commit to building it to make sure it will work.\\nBuild temporary jumps out of boards to test out different locations, angles, and sizes before you build permanent jumps.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid digging and removing soil from your track so that water doesn’t puddle in your track.\\nAlways consider drainage when you’re building jumps and berms and avoid placing them where they will keep water from draining off the track.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a backyard RC track is a fun project when you’re tired of driving your RC car on the plain grass or around your neighborhood’s streets. Make sure you have a large, relatively flat and clear area that you can create your track on. Other than that, there are really no rules for building your track! It’s up to you to get creative with the design and build fun obstacles like berms and jumps. Keep in mind that it does take some physical work, so you might want to get some friends together to help you out with the labor.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Designing and Laying out the Track\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick an area that is about 20 ft (6.1 m) by 20 ft (6.1 m) for the track.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a grass or dirt area on your property that is approximately this big to give yourself enough space to build a fun track. Make sure that it’s OK to do some landscaping for your track there.\\nIt’s fine to select an area that’s a little bit smaller or bigger, depending on the space you have available. Just keep in mind that a track much smaller than this won’t give you a lot of room to get creative, and a very large track can be hard to drive because you can’t see it all well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw a blueprint of your track design.\", \"描述\": \"Get a piece of paper and a pen or pencil and draw an outline of the space you chose for your track. Draw an outline of the lanes for the track inside the space in any shape you want, as long as it makes a full circuit.\\nFor example, you could make the track a traditional oval shape with a long straightaway on either side and a U-shaped turn at each end. On the other hand, you could try something more complex with a straightaway on one side and S-curves on the other side. It’s totally up to you to get creative here!\\nYou can draw multiple designs to put down some different ideas on paper, then choose the one that looks most fun and interesting to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark 5–7 ft (1.5–2.1 m) wide temporary lanes with string.\", \"描述\": \"Lay string out on the ground to mark the lanes as you drew them in your blueprint. Stick twigs or nails into the ground at regular intervals and wrap the string around them to hold in in place temporarily.\\nIf you’re just planning on running 1-2 RC cars at a time, 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) wide lanes should be big enough. If you want to race more cars than that at once, make the lanes 6–7 ft (1.8–2.1 m) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Test drive the course to make sure the lane design works and is fun to drive.\", \"描述\": \"Get out your favorite RC car and take it for a few spins around the temporary lanes you marked. Take note of things like corners that are too sharp or parts that are boring and make any alterations to the design that you want.\\nFor example, you might decide to make a straightaway shorter and add an S-curve before a corner.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install corrugated pipe with galvanized nails for the lane walls.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the string and replace it with 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe once you’re happy with your lane design. Drive 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails through the pipe into the ground at regular intervals to hold it in place.\\nYou can get 4 in (10 cm) corrugated pipe and 12 in (30 cm) galvanized nails at a home improvement center.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Smoothing out the Track\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Kill grass and weeds with weed killer.\", \"描述\": \"Spray an environmentally safe weed killer onto the race track. Wait a day or two for the weeds and grass to die off before you proceed.\\nIf the ground is just dirt already, you don’t need to do this.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use the flat ads head side of a pickaxe to tear up any turf and weeds.\", \"描述\": \"Hack away at the dead grass and weeds with the pickaxe to tear it up from the soil underneath. Set aside the turf in a pile somewhere outside of the track.\\nYou can use some of the turf to fill in jumps and berms when you build them later on, so you don’t need to use as much soil.\\nYou could also use a garden hoe to do this, if you don’t have a pickaxe with an ads head.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Level out the soil with a rake and tamper.\", \"描述\": \"Rake along the entire track to even out the soil. Pack down the soil with a tamper to create a smooth, compact surface for your new race track.\\nA tamper is a heavy flat piece of metal attached to a long handle. To use one, just hold the flat metal part above the soil and drive it straight down into the ground. Let the weight of the tamper do most of the work or you’ll get tired very quickly!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Jumps and Berms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put jumps and berms where they won’t block water from draining away.\", \"描述\": \"Look at the natural slopes of the land in and around the track. Avoid building berms or jumps where they will block water from flowing off the track.\\nA berm is a bank built into the outside edge of a corner.\\nFor example, if there is a corner slightly downhill from the rest of the track, don’t build a berm here because it could trap water on the track. If there is a straightaway on a hill, don’t build a jump across the whole straightaway that could trap water on one side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build slanted berms in sharp outside corners using a shovel and topsoil.\", \"描述\": \"Dump topsoil into the outside edge of a sharp corner up to about the level of the corrugated piping. Use the rounded backside of a shovel to pack it and shape it into a bank that your RC cars can go up to go around the corner at an angle.\\nBerms make sharp corners fun because you don’t have to slow down as much to go around them.\\nFor example, if your track is an oval shape with a U-shaped turn at each end of the circuit, build a berm on the outside edge of each U-turn.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make jumps on straightaways using a shovel and topsoil.\", \"描述\": \"Dump enough topsoil onto a straightaway to build a small bump. Use a shovel to shape and pack it into a hard mound that your RC cars can go up to catch some air.\\nIt’s up to you how big to build the jumps, but keep in mind that the bigger the jump is, the harder the landing will be on your RC cars. Start with something small like a 6 in (15 cm) high jump and test it out, then go bigger if you think your cars can handle it.\\nDepending how dry the soil is, it might help to water the jumps down, compact them, then add more soil and repeat the process until they are hard enough to keep their form.\\nYou can make many different styles of jumps. For example, you could make a wide jump across a whole straightaway, so that all racers have to go over it, or build a narrow jump on one side of the straightaway so that it’s optional.\\nKeep in mind that an RC car needs about 1.5 times its length to land, so build jumps with a landing space that is 1.5 times longer than the largest car you plan to run on the track.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always test drive your track design before you commit to building it to make sure it will work.\\n\", \"Build temporary jumps out of boards to test out different locations, angles, and sizes before you build permanent jumps.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid digging and removing soil from your track so that water doesn’t puddle in your track.\\n\", \"Always consider drainage when you’re building jumps and berms and avoid placing them where they will keep water from draining off the track.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,676 |
How to Build an Underground Base in Minecraft
|
1. Steps
1-1. Gather wood to craft tools and weapons.
Just punch down trees; it'll be slow at first, but punch down 5-10 trees. Don't bother with the leaves unless you want to replant.
1-2. Turn wood into wooden planks.
Place wood blocks directly into your crafting area in your inventory (Press "E" to access inventory) and turn all of the wood except for five pieces into wood planks.
1-3. Make your workbench.
Make a workbench by filling each of the four crafting slots with wood planks. Note that while they can be any kind of wood, it will have to be the same kind of wood. It is not necessary to craft more than one workbench.
1-4. Make your tools.
Create a few sticks by placing two wood planks, one on top of another, in the crafting window. Place two sticks, one on top of the other, in the bottom middle and center. Then, across the top row, place 3 wooden planks.
1-5. Mine!
Mine some stone. It's best to mine about 30 stone, as it will be useful to have a little bit of extra stone later on.
1-6. Make a furnace.
Fill every crafting slot except for the middle, at a workbench, to create a furnace.
1-7. Make charcoal.
Use the furnace. Place some wood (not planks) in the top left of the furnace, and place some wood planks in the lower left of the furnace. This will burn the wood on the top, giving you charcoal.
1-8. Make torches.
Once you have five charcoal, make five more sticks if you don't have them already. Then, place all of your charcoal into one space on the crafting area, then as many sticks as you have charcoal underneath the charcoal. This will make torches. Make as many as you want/need.
1-9. Stay safe at night
For the first night, dig down three blocks, seal the top of the hole off, and place a torch. After you have done that, and you are safe, you can dig.
1-10. Dig your underground base.
After you have dug a hole, you can expand. Feel free to make your base as big as you want, and as cool as you want.
Do not forget to light up your base with torches, or zombies, skeletons, and other bad stuff will start to inhabit your base.
It is recommended to put down a few furnaces, a crafting table, and a large chest if you are going to go mining.
Tips
Kill any sheep you come across. If you are able to get three wool (doesn't need to be of the same color), you can craft a bed which resets your spawn point to near that bed, and also lets you skip through nights. Make sure to keep 1 or 2 blocks free space either on the right or the left side of the bed, or else you're going to spawn in a block once you died.
It is probably also a good idea to kill chickens, pigs, etc. They will give you meat which can be eaten.
This is the easiest Minecraft base to modify, since you can dig outward.
Warnings
Do not look at Endermen (tall, creepy, solid black people with purple eyes). They will become mad at you, and they are entirely capable of teleporting and sneaking up on you, and they do a lot of damage.
If it turns to night before you are done gathering materials, etc., you can just dig a very tiny hidey-hole and wait out the night. If you keep it as wide as "Steve?" (or "Alex?") then monsters will not spawn next to you.
Do not tempt the creepers.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather wood to craft tools and weapons.\\nJust punch down trees; it'll be slow at first, but punch down 5-10 trees. Don't bother with the leaves unless you want to replant.\\n1-2. Turn wood into wooden planks.\\nPlace wood blocks directly into your crafting area in your inventory (Press \\\"E\\\" to access inventory) and turn all of the wood except for five pieces into wood planks.\\n1-3. Make your workbench.\\nMake a workbench by filling each of the four crafting slots with wood planks. Note that while they can be any kind of wood, it will have to be the same kind of wood. It is not necessary to craft more than one workbench.\\n1-4. Make your tools.\\nCreate a few sticks by placing two wood planks, one on top of another, in the crafting window. Place two sticks, one on top of the other, in the bottom middle and center. Then, across the top row, place 3 wooden planks.\\n1-5. Mine!\\nMine some stone. It's best to mine about 30 stone, as it will be useful to have a little bit of extra stone later on.\\n1-6. Make a furnace.\\nFill every crafting slot except for the middle, at a workbench, to create a furnace.\\n1-7. Make charcoal.\\nUse the furnace. Place some wood (not planks) in the top left of the furnace, and place some wood planks in the lower left of the furnace. This will burn the wood on the top, giving you charcoal.\\n1-8. Make torches.\\nOnce you have five charcoal, make five more sticks if you don't have them already. Then, place all of your charcoal into one space on the crafting area, then as many sticks as you have charcoal underneath the charcoal. This will make torches. Make as many as you want/need.\\n1-9. Stay safe at night\\nFor the first night, dig down three blocks, seal the top of the hole off, and place a torch. After you have done that, and you are safe, you can dig.\\n1-10. Dig your underground base.\\nAfter you have dug a hole, you can expand. Feel free to make your base as big as you want, and as cool as you want.\\nDo not forget to light up your base with torches, or zombies, skeletons, and other bad stuff will start to inhabit your base.\\nIt is recommended to put down a few furnaces, a crafting table, and a large chest if you are going to go mining.\\nTips\\nKill any sheep you come across. If you are able to get three wool (doesn't need to be of the same color), you can craft a bed which resets your spawn point to near that bed, and also lets you skip through nights. Make sure to keep 1 or 2 blocks free space either on the right or the left side of the bed, or else you're going to spawn in a block once you died.\\nIt is probably also a good idea to kill chickens, pigs, etc. They will give you meat which can be eaten.\\nThis is the easiest Minecraft base to modify, since you can dig outward.\\nWarnings\\nDo not look at Endermen (tall, creepy, solid black people with purple eyes). They will become mad at you, and they are entirely capable of teleporting and sneaking up on you, and they do a lot of damage.\\nIf it turns to night before you are done gathering materials, etc., you can just dig a very tiny hidey-hole and wait out the night. If you keep it as wide as \\\"Steve?\\\" (or \\\"Alex?\\\") then monsters will not spawn next to you.\\nDo not tempt the creepers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Diving into Minecraft successfully can be hard. This is a guide to how to build an awesome underground Fortress in Minecraft, starting on your first day.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather wood to craft tools and weapons.\", \"描述\": \"Just punch down trees; it'll be slow at first, but punch down 5-10 trees. Don't bother with the leaves unless you want to replant.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Turn wood into wooden planks.\", \"描述\": \"Place wood blocks directly into your crafting area in your inventory (Press \\\"E\\\" to access inventory) and turn all of the wood except for five pieces into wood planks.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make your workbench.\", \"描述\": \"Make a workbench by filling each of the four crafting slots with wood planks. Note that while they can be any kind of wood, it will have to be the same kind of wood. It is not necessary to craft more than one workbench.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make your tools.\", \"描述\": \"Create a few sticks by placing two wood planks, one on top of another, in the crafting window. Place two sticks, one on top of the other, in the bottom middle and center. Then, across the top row, place 3 wooden planks.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mine!\", \"描述\": \"Mine some stone. It's best to mine about 30 stone, as it will be useful to have a little bit of extra stone later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a furnace.\", \"描述\": \"Fill every crafting slot except for the middle, at a workbench, to create a furnace.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make charcoal.\", \"描述\": \"Use the furnace. Place some wood (not planks) in the top left of the furnace, and place some wood planks in the lower left of the furnace. This will burn the wood on the top, giving you charcoal.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make torches.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have five charcoal, make five more sticks if you don't have them already. Then, place all of your charcoal into one space on the crafting area, then as many sticks as you have charcoal underneath the charcoal. This will make torches. Make as many as you want/need.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Stay safe at night\", \"描述\": \"For the first night, dig down three blocks, seal the top of the hole off, and place a torch. After you have done that, and you are safe, you can dig.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Dig your underground base.\", \"描述\": \"After you have dug a hole, you can expand. Feel free to make your base as big as you want, and as cool as you want.\\nDo not forget to light up your base with torches, or zombies, skeletons, and other bad stuff will start to inhabit your base.\\nIt is recommended to put down a few furnaces, a crafting table, and a large chest if you are going to go mining.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Kill any sheep you come across. If you are able to get three wool (doesn't need to be of the same color), you can craft a bed which resets your spawn point to near that bed, and also lets you skip through nights. Make sure to keep 1 or 2 blocks free space either on the right or the left side of the bed, or else you're going to spawn in a block once you died.\\n\", \"It is probably also a good idea to kill chickens, pigs, etc. They will give you meat which can be eaten.\\n\", \"This is the easiest Minecraft base to modify, since you can dig outward.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not look at Endermen (tall, creepy, solid black people with purple eyes). They will become mad at you, and they are entirely capable of teleporting and sneaking up on you, and they do a lot of damage.\\n\", \"If it turns to night before you are done gathering materials, etc., you can just dig a very tiny hidey-hole and wait out the night. If you keep it as wide as \\\"Steve?\\\" (or \\\"Alex?\\\") then monsters will not spawn next to you.\\n\", \"Do not tempt the creepers.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,677 |
How to Build an Underground Bunker
|
1. Planning Your Bunker
1-1. Choose a dry location with gravel soil for your underground bunker.
Locate an area with soil low in clay and water. Rocky soil is fine but more difficult to excavate, so be prepared for more work if you choose this soil type. Avoid areas with natural gas pockets, bedrock, electrical circuits, and shallow water tables.
Avoid locations at the bottom of a steep slope.
If your only option is soil with lots of clay, install a French drain.
1-2. Dig a hole up to 4 ft (1.2 m) deep to check the water table level.
Thrust your shovel into the ground and move it back and forth and side to side to loosen the soil. Once it's loosened, start digging and continue until it's 4 ft (1.2 m) or you notice water start to enter—the entrance height is the water table level. If you reach 4 ft (1.2 m), leave the hole and see how much water fills it after 1 hour—the water table level is the level that the water fills up to.
Repeat this process around the bunker area and average your measurements to get an estimate of the water table level.
Don't dig your bunker in an area with a shallow water table, which is 3 ft (0.91 m) or less.
1-3. Draw a floor plan for your underground bunker.
Before jumping into anything, ask yourself how big you want your bunker to be. Is it going to fit more than 1 person? How much space do you want? What are you going to put in your underground bunker? After answering these questions, sketch a floor plan along with the length, height, and width.
Designate locations for the bathroom, kitchen, washroom, and common area.
Consider the furniture that you want to add, such as couches, chairs, and beds.
Write or draw each item to get a feel for where everything will be located.
1-4. Purchase a shipping container
The shipping container acts as the main body of the bunker and is the least labor intensive option for structure. Contact local shipping container companies and select a product with enough space that fits in your price range and needs. If you want, purchase multiple containers for a larger bunker.
Standard shipping containers are 8 feet (2.4 m) wide, 8.5 feet (2.6 m) high, and one of two lengths: 20 feet (6.1 m) and 40 feet (12 m).
Ask about purchasing used shipping containers for a cheaper alternative.
Double-check with your landlord or landowner that you can build your bunker prior to having your container shipped.
Shipping containers cost between $3,000 to $5,000 USD
1-5. Buy 1.5 by 2.5 in (3.8 by 6.4 cm) earthbags for a low-cost solution.
Earthbags are low-cost structural materials that can be purchased from online suppliers. If you're looking for the simplest method of creating your bunker structure, this is the way to go. After determining the length and width of your bunker, buy the appropriate number of bags needed to cover this space.
Consider a bunker that is 240 feet (73 m) long and wide: it requires 1,152 bags for both the length and width—240 feet (73 m) divided by 2.5 inches (6.4 cm)—which is a total of 2,304 for 1 length and 1 width. This means that total amount of bags per layer is 2,304 x 2 (since there are 2 lengths and widths 2 per layer), or 4,608.
Multiply the total number of bags needed per layer by the number of layers for the total bags for your structure. For example, if each layer requires 4,608 bags and you need 6 layers, you need 27,648 earthbags in total (6 x 4,608).
Earth bag height will vary depending on how they're filled. After determining how many bags you need per layer, fill up one bag and measure it's height. Now, use this to determine how many layers you need. For example, if it's 1.5 foot (0.46 m) tall and you want a 15 foot (4.6 m) tall bunker, you need 7.5 layers (15/1.5).
Soil costs between $12 to $18 USD per cubic yard.
1-6. Build your bunker from cinder blocks or bricks for better insulation.
Head to a home hardware store to purchase cinder blocks or bricks for a very affordable price. Not only are they relatively cheap compared to the more expensive materials, but they are also sturdy, easy to install, and great for insulation.
Select bricks or cinder blocks if you live in an area with extremely cold weather during the winter.
Purchase enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker. For example, if your bunker is 10 feet (3.0 m) long, wide, and high and your cinder blocks are 1 foot (0.30 m) long, wide and high, you need 40 for each layer (a total of 2 lengths and 2 widths) across 10 layers high for a total of 400 (40 x 10).
2. Digging and Constructing Your Bunker
2-1. Dig a hole 2 feet (0.61 m) deeper than your bunker's height.
Thrust your shovel down into the soil and move it forward and backward and side to side to loosen it. After loosening it, grasp the center of the handle with your non-dominant hand and grip the top of it with your dominant hand. Now, start digging your bunker hole from the perimeter of your bunker hole and move inward. Use your foot to firmly press straight down onto the shovel.
Use a reciprocating saw or the tip of your shovel to saw through large roots.
Loosen rocks with a steel bar.
Consider hiring or renting heavy equipment to dig your hole.
Call 811 3 to 4 days prior to digging to make sure you can do so without damaging underground electrical structures or piping.
2-2. Place your shipping container into the hole if you're using one.
Speak to the company you purchased your container from about shipping costs and procedure. Local companies will be cheaper, while international companies will be significantly more expensive. Most companies charge a flat rate per 1 mile (1.6 km).
2-3. Fill and stack your earthbags with 15-25% clay soil if applicable.
If you're making an earthbag structure, head to a local garden or big-box store and look for a sandy soil product with the appropriate clay levels. The rest of the soil should be made mostly of sandy aggregate. Now, start stacking the first row of bags. Afterward, start stacking your second row, making sure that each bag covers 1/2 of the 2 sandbags underneath it. Continue this process until the top of your sandbags are level with the ground
Although 5-35% clay works too, the ideal amount is 15-25%, so stick to that whenever possible.
Don't use heavy clay as it will contract when it dries and expand when wet.
Ask a garden store worker for soils that are used for cob, rammed earth walls, and adobe blocks.
Dump out any soil from your sandbags as needed to create corner pieces.
2-4. Lay bricks
Start placing your bricks onto a concrete foundation and attach each piece with ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar. Work your way up about 2 to 3 courses on each side of the brick lines to create a shallow "U" before filling the middle.
Double-check that you have enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker before starting.
Your foundation should be the same length and width as your bunker structure and about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep. Use a spirit level to check the leveling after every 4 to 5 bricks.
Stagger each layer or brick with a half piece to give it stability.
2-5. Use 4 mm (0.16 in) sheet metal roofing for earth bag or cinderblock structures.
Sheet metal is the best roofing material if you're not using a shipping container. Wood isn't recommended for a roof due to its susceptibility to rot and weathering.
If you're on a tight budget and want to purchase wood, make sure you use pressure treated wood.
2-6. Install air vents in your roof.
Find the net free area (NFA) of your vents, compare it to your bunker's square footage, and make sure the NFA is more. If not, add more vents until the total NFA is more than the square footage. Afterward, outline 7 by 15 inch (18 by 38 cm) rectangles on the ceiling for each vent. Now, drill holes into the outside corners of the rectangle and then remove it using a jigsaw. Always start by inserting the blade through one of the holes. Afterward, place a soffit vent over the rectangular holes and drill it into place with 4 to 6 screws.
Cover the air vents on the surface with brush and rocks.
Always start by installing the corner screws of the vents for stability.
Set your saw to medium speed and always follow the outline slowly and carefully.
Invest in an air filtration system for maximum air quality.
2-7. Cover your bunker with 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) silo plastic.
Silo plastic protects your bunker from water and other environmental waste while still allowing oxygen transmission. Purchase silo plastic from an online supplier for the best options. Multiply your bunker's length by its height to get the area of the roof you need to cover and purchase at least this amount.
Weight the silo plastic down with gravel bags, tires, tire sidewalls, or other ballast material.
Purchase 2 layers of silo plastic for extra protection.
Swap silo plastic with a plastic tarp or cover for a cheaper alternative. However, bear in mind it won't be as effective.
2-8. Hide the roof of your underground bunker from view.
To prevent people from discovering your bunker, cover it with dirt and local fauna. Try your best to ensure that it blends into the surrounding environment as much as possible.
Use tire sidewalls as opposed to tires whenever possible to prevent water buildup and rodent habitat formation.
Build a shed on top of your bunker's entrance to conceal it.
Place an outhouse on top of the entrance to your bunker.
Add some bushes and rocks from your excavation.
2-9. Power your bunker with batteries, solar panels, and generators.
Invest in no less than eight 6-volt gel-cell batteries in your bunker at all times. In addition, consider investing in solar panels and electrical generators for long-term power sources. Just remember to run your electrical generator outside when you need to use it.
Use batteries to power lights and radio communication for the highest efficiency.
Choose diesel generators as opposed to propane or gasoline.
Invest in a diesel generator 2kW or smaller to charge your batteries.
Call a local power company and inquire about installation costs.
2-10. Invest in water tanks, filters, and heaters.
You'll be outfitting your bunker with a toilet later, so you can focus on creating clean water or your consumption. Purchase a water tank to store your water and consider investing in a filter and heater.
Skip the water heater if you don't mind cold water, but remember that you'll be missing out on hot water during the winter.
3. Outfitting and Stocking Your Bunker
3-1. Fill your bunker with at least 3 days' worth of non-perishable foods and water.
Start by filling your bunker with 3 day's worth of food and gradually add to it over time. Dehydrated meals, canned goods, dried pemmican, and rice stored in Mylar bags are all great choices, but anything with a long shelf life works. Bottled water is the simplest option, although you can invest in a water tank if you're willing to spend the money. If you're planning to house more than one person, be sure to account for extra food and water.
Some canned foods examples include yams, carrots, peas, green beans, fruits, chili, chicken, turkey, tuna, and salmon.
Dry foods you can purchase include raisins, mangos, apples, apricots, rice, flour, nuts, cereal, granola, powdered milk, and pet kibble.
Buy some crackers, beans, canned meat, dried chickpeas, and gelatin desserts.
Don’t forget some comfort foods, such as your favorite candy, tea, or coffee.
3-2. Stock your bunker with survival gear.
Flashlights, a radio (self-powered or battery-powered), toilet paper, soap, fire extinguisher, and clothing are all the basics. In addition, you should stock some tweezers, scissors, a thermometer, latex gloves, and lubricant.
Keep a stash of non-prescription drugs like aspirin, antacids, laxatives, eye wash, rubbing alcohol, and antiseptic.
3-3. Create a sleeping area for rest.
Be sure to add some blankets or sleeping bags, one change of clothing for each person, work boots or sturdy shoes, thermal underwear, and rain gear. Aside from these basics, add whatever else you want for comfort.
Add some portable heaters for winter weather.
3-4. Add a portable camping or composing toilet to your bathroom area.
Portable camping toilets require you to get rid of the waste yourself, while composting toilets turn it into fertilizer. Obviously, the latter is more ideal for long-term stays and situations when you can't leave your bunker.
Stock your washroom area with toilet paper and cleaning supplies.
3-5. Stock your kitchen area with cooking tools.
Start by stocking your kitchen with an electric burner or microwave oven—never propane or gas stoves, which create dangerous levels of carbon monoxide. For emergency situations, keep a marine alcohol stove handy.
Purchase alcohol fuel from a marine or hardware store.
Keep your utensils, pots, pans, and other cooking supplies in your kitchen area.
3-6. Create a common area for relaxing.
Add a small carpet, couch, and some chairs to relax. Afterward, add some entertainment—cards, board games, books, a television, video games, movies, dominoes, and anything else to keep you occupied.
Add a small coffee table to make your bunker homier.
Tips
If you're not up to create an underground bunker on your own, hire professionals to do so for you.
Warnings
Watch out for cave-ins and always wear the proper safety equipment.
Be sure to get your bunker approved by your landowner(s) or landlord before starting.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Bunker\\n1-1. Choose a dry location with gravel soil for your underground bunker.\\nLocate an area with soil low in clay and water. Rocky soil is fine but more difficult to excavate, so be prepared for more work if you choose this soil type. Avoid areas with natural gas pockets, bedrock, electrical circuits, and shallow water tables.\\nAvoid locations at the bottom of a steep slope.\\nIf your only option is soil with lots of clay, install a French drain.\\n1-2. Dig a hole up to 4 ft (1.2 m) deep to check the water table level.\\nThrust your shovel into the ground and move it back and forth and side to side to loosen the soil. Once it's loosened, start digging and continue until it's 4 ft (1.2 m) or you notice water start to enter—the entrance height is the water table level. If you reach 4 ft (1.2 m), leave the hole and see how much water fills it after 1 hour—the water table level is the level that the water fills up to.\\nRepeat this process around the bunker area and average your measurements to get an estimate of the water table level.\\nDon't dig your bunker in an area with a shallow water table, which is 3 ft (0.91 m) or less.\\n1-3. Draw a floor plan for your underground bunker.\\nBefore jumping into anything, ask yourself how big you want your bunker to be. Is it going to fit more than 1 person? How much space do you want? What are you going to put in your underground bunker? After answering these questions, sketch a floor plan along with the length, height, and width.\\nDesignate locations for the bathroom, kitchen, washroom, and common area.\\nConsider the furniture that you want to add, such as couches, chairs, and beds.\\nWrite or draw each item to get a feel for where everything will be located.\\n1-4. Purchase a shipping container\\nThe shipping container acts as the main body of the bunker and is the least labor intensive option for structure. Contact local shipping container companies and select a product with enough space that fits in your price range and needs. If you want, purchase multiple containers for a larger bunker.\\nStandard shipping containers are 8 feet (2.4 m) wide, 8.5 feet (2.6 m) high, and one of two lengths: 20 feet (6.1 m) and 40 feet (12 m).\\nAsk about purchasing used shipping containers for a cheaper alternative.\\nDouble-check with your landlord or landowner that you can build your bunker prior to having your container shipped.\\nShipping containers cost between $3,000 to $5,000 USD\\n1-5. Buy 1.5 by 2.5 in (3.8 by 6.4 cm) earthbags for a low-cost solution.\\nEarthbags are low-cost structural materials that can be purchased from online suppliers. If you're looking for the simplest method of creating your bunker structure, this is the way to go. After determining the length and width of your bunker, buy the appropriate number of bags needed to cover this space.\\nConsider a bunker that is 240 feet (73 m) long and wide: it requires 1,152 bags for both the length and width—240 feet (73 m) divided by 2.5 inches (6.4 cm)—which is a total of 2,304 for 1 length and 1 width. This means that total amount of bags per layer is 2,304 x 2 (since there are 2 lengths and widths 2 per layer), or 4,608.\\nMultiply the total number of bags needed per layer by the number of layers for the total bags for your structure. For example, if each layer requires 4,608 bags and you need 6 layers, you need 27,648 earthbags in total (6 x 4,608).\\nEarth bag height will vary depending on how they're filled. After determining how many bags you need per layer, fill up one bag and measure it's height. Now, use this to determine how many layers you need. For example, if it's 1.5 foot (0.46 m) tall and you want a 15 foot (4.6 m) tall bunker, you need 7.5 layers (15/1.5).\\nSoil costs between $12 to $18 USD per cubic yard.\\n1-6. Build your bunker from cinder blocks or bricks for better insulation.\\nHead to a home hardware store to purchase cinder blocks or bricks for a very affordable price. Not only are they relatively cheap compared to the more expensive materials, but they are also sturdy, easy to install, and great for insulation.\\nSelect bricks or cinder blocks if you live in an area with extremely cold weather during the winter.\\nPurchase enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker. For example, if your bunker is 10 feet (3.0 m) long, wide, and high and your cinder blocks are 1 foot (0.30 m) long, wide and high, you need 40 for each layer (a total of 2 lengths and 2 widths) across 10 layers high for a total of 400 (40 x 10).\\n2. Digging and Constructing Your Bunker\\n2-1. Dig a hole 2 feet (0.61 m) deeper than your bunker's height.\\nThrust your shovel down into the soil and move it forward and backward and side to side to loosen it. After loosening it, grasp the center of the handle with your non-dominant hand and grip the top of it with your dominant hand. Now, start digging your bunker hole from the perimeter of your bunker hole and move inward. Use your foot to firmly press straight down onto the shovel.\\n\\nUse a reciprocating saw or the tip of your shovel to saw through large roots.\\nLoosen rocks with a steel bar.\\nConsider hiring or renting heavy equipment to dig your hole.\\nCall 811 3 to 4 days prior to digging to make sure you can do so without damaging underground electrical structures or piping.\\n2-2. Place your shipping container into the hole if you're using one.\\nSpeak to the company you purchased your container from about shipping costs and procedure. Local companies will be cheaper, while international companies will be significantly more expensive. Most companies charge a flat rate per 1 mile (1.6 km).\\n2-3. Fill and stack your earthbags with 15-25% clay soil if applicable.\\nIf you're making an earthbag structure, head to a local garden or big-box store and look for a sandy soil product with the appropriate clay levels. The rest of the soil should be made mostly of sandy aggregate. Now, start stacking the first row of bags. Afterward, start stacking your second row, making sure that each bag covers 1/2 of the 2 sandbags underneath it. Continue this process until the top of your sandbags are level with the ground\\nAlthough 5-35% clay works too, the ideal amount is 15-25%, so stick to that whenever possible.\\nDon't use heavy clay as it will contract when it dries and expand when wet.\\nAsk a garden store worker for soils that are used for cob, rammed earth walls, and adobe blocks.\\nDump out any soil from your sandbags as needed to create corner pieces.\\n2-4. Lay bricks\\nStart placing your bricks onto a concrete foundation and attach each piece with ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar. Work your way up about 2 to 3 courses on each side of the brick lines to create a shallow \\\"U\\\" before filling the middle.\\nDouble-check that you have enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker before starting.\\nYour foundation should be the same length and width as your bunker structure and about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep. Use a spirit level to check the leveling after every 4 to 5 bricks.\\nStagger each layer or brick with a half piece to give it stability.\\n2-5. Use 4 mm (0.16 in) sheet metal roofing for earth bag or cinderblock structures.\\nSheet metal is the best roofing material if you're not using a shipping container. Wood isn't recommended for a roof due to its susceptibility to rot and weathering.\\nIf you're on a tight budget and want to purchase wood, make sure you use pressure treated wood.\\n2-6. Install air vents in your roof.\\nFind the net free area (NFA) of your vents, compare it to your bunker's square footage, and make sure the NFA is more. If not, add more vents until the total NFA is more than the square footage. Afterward, outline 7 by 15 inch (18 by 38 cm) rectangles on the ceiling for each vent. Now, drill holes into the outside corners of the rectangle and then remove it using a jigsaw. Always start by inserting the blade through one of the holes. Afterward, place a soffit vent over the rectangular holes and drill it into place with 4 to 6 screws.\\nCover the air vents on the surface with brush and rocks.\\nAlways start by installing the corner screws of the vents for stability.\\nSet your saw to medium speed and always follow the outline slowly and carefully.\\nInvest in an air filtration system for maximum air quality.\\n2-7. Cover your bunker with 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) silo plastic.\\nSilo plastic protects your bunker from water and other environmental waste while still allowing oxygen transmission. Purchase silo plastic from an online supplier for the best options. Multiply your bunker's length by its height to get the area of the roof you need to cover and purchase at least this amount. \\nWeight the silo plastic down with gravel bags, tires, tire sidewalls, or other ballast material.\\nPurchase 2 layers of silo plastic for extra protection.\\nSwap silo plastic with a plastic tarp or cover for a cheaper alternative. However, bear in mind it won't be as effective.\\n2-8. Hide the roof of your underground bunker from view.\\nTo prevent people from discovering your bunker, cover it with dirt and local fauna. Try your best to ensure that it blends into the surrounding environment as much as possible.\\nUse tire sidewalls as opposed to tires whenever possible to prevent water buildup and rodent habitat formation.\\nBuild a shed on top of your bunker's entrance to conceal it.\\nPlace an outhouse on top of the entrance to your bunker.\\nAdd some bushes and rocks from your excavation.\\n2-9. Power your bunker with batteries, solar panels, and generators.\\nInvest in no less than eight 6-volt gel-cell batteries in your bunker at all times. In addition, consider investing in solar panels and electrical generators for long-term power sources. Just remember to run your electrical generator outside when you need to use it.\\nUse batteries to power lights and radio communication for the highest efficiency.\\nChoose diesel generators as opposed to propane or gasoline.\\nInvest in a diesel generator 2kW or smaller to charge your batteries.\\nCall a local power company and inquire about installation costs.\\n2-10. Invest in water tanks, filters, and heaters.\\nYou'll be outfitting your bunker with a toilet later, so you can focus on creating clean water or your consumption. Purchase a water tank to store your water and consider investing in a filter and heater.\\nSkip the water heater if you don't mind cold water, but remember that you'll be missing out on hot water during the winter.\\n3. Outfitting and Stocking Your Bunker\\n3-1. Fill your bunker with at least 3 days' worth of non-perishable foods and water.\\nStart by filling your bunker with 3 day's worth of food and gradually add to it over time. Dehydrated meals, canned goods, dried pemmican, and rice stored in Mylar bags are all great choices, but anything with a long shelf life works. Bottled water is the simplest option, although you can invest in a water tank if you're willing to spend the money. If you're planning to house more than one person, be sure to account for extra food and water. \\nSome canned foods examples include yams, carrots, peas, green beans, fruits, chili, chicken, turkey, tuna, and salmon.\\nDry foods you can purchase include raisins, mangos, apples, apricots, rice, flour, nuts, cereal, granola, powdered milk, and pet kibble.\\nBuy some crackers, beans, canned meat, dried chickpeas, and gelatin desserts.\\nDon’t forget some comfort foods, such as your favorite candy, tea, or coffee.\\n3-2. Stock your bunker with survival gear.\\nFlashlights, a radio (self-powered or battery-powered), toilet paper, soap, fire extinguisher, and clothing are all the basics. In addition, you should stock some tweezers, scissors, a thermometer, latex gloves, and lubricant.\\nKeep a stash of non-prescription drugs like aspirin, antacids, laxatives, eye wash, rubbing alcohol, and antiseptic.\\n3-3. Create a sleeping area for rest.\\nBe sure to add some blankets or sleeping bags, one change of clothing for each person, work boots or sturdy shoes, thermal underwear, and rain gear. Aside from these basics, add whatever else you want for comfort. \\nAdd some portable heaters for winter weather.\\n3-4. Add a portable camping or composing toilet to your bathroom area.\\nPortable camping toilets require you to get rid of the waste yourself, while composting toilets turn it into fertilizer. Obviously, the latter is more ideal for long-term stays and situations when you can't leave your bunker.\\nStock your washroom area with toilet paper and cleaning supplies.\\n3-5. Stock your kitchen area with cooking tools.\\nStart by stocking your kitchen with an electric burner or microwave oven—never propane or gas stoves, which create dangerous levels of carbon monoxide. For emergency situations, keep a marine alcohol stove handy.\\nPurchase alcohol fuel from a marine or hardware store.\\nKeep your utensils, pots, pans, and other cooking supplies in your kitchen area.\\n3-6. Create a common area for relaxing.\\nAdd a small carpet, couch, and some chairs to relax. Afterward, add some entertainment—cards, board games, books, a television, video games, movies, dominoes, and anything else to keep you occupied.\\nAdd a small coffee table to make your bunker homier.\\nTips\\nIf you're not up to create an underground bunker on your own, hire professionals to do so for you.\\nWarnings\\nWatch out for cave-ins and always wear the proper safety equipment.\\nBe sure to get your bunker approved by your landowner(s) or landlord before starting.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Planning for the apocalypse? A nuclear fallout? Natural disaster? Whatever your reasoning, digging an underground bunker and ensuring it's designed and stocked to help you survive is a big project. But big doesn't mean impossible—with the right planning and tools, you'll be on your way to crafting a hidden underground bunker that keeps you safe in the worst of times!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Bunker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a dry location with gravel soil for your underground bunker.\", \"描述\": \"Locate an area with soil low in clay and water. Rocky soil is fine but more difficult to excavate, so be prepared for more work if you choose this soil type. Avoid areas with natural gas pockets, bedrock, electrical circuits, and shallow water tables.\\nAvoid locations at the bottom of a steep slope.\\nIf your only option is soil with lots of clay, install a French drain.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole up to 4 ft (1.2 m) deep to check the water table level.\", \"描述\": \"Thrust your shovel into the ground and move it back and forth and side to side to loosen the soil. Once it's loosened, start digging and continue until it's 4 ft (1.2 m) or you notice water start to enter—the entrance height is the water table level. If you reach 4 ft (1.2 m), leave the hole and see how much water fills it after 1 hour—the water table level is the level that the water fills up to.\\nRepeat this process around the bunker area and average your measurements to get an estimate of the water table level.\\nDon't dig your bunker in an area with a shallow water table, which is 3 ft (0.91 m) or less.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Draw a floor plan for your underground bunker.\", \"描述\": \"Before jumping into anything, ask yourself how big you want your bunker to be. Is it going to fit more than 1 person? How much space do you want? What are you going to put in your underground bunker? After answering these questions, sketch a floor plan along with the length, height, and width.\\nDesignate locations for the bathroom, kitchen, washroom, and common area.\\nConsider the furniture that you want to add, such as couches, chairs, and beds.\\nWrite or draw each item to get a feel for where everything will be located.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase a shipping container\", \"描述\": \"The shipping container acts as the main body of the bunker and is the least labor intensive option for structure. Contact local shipping container companies and select a product with enough space that fits in your price range and needs. If you want, purchase multiple containers for a larger bunker.\\nStandard shipping containers are 8 feet (2.4 m) wide, 8.5 feet (2.6 m) high, and one of two lengths: 20 feet (6.1 m) and 40 feet (12 m).\\nAsk about purchasing used shipping containers for a cheaper alternative.\\nDouble-check with your landlord or landowner that you can build your bunker prior to having your container shipped.\\nShipping containers cost between $3,000 to $5,000 USD\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Buy 1.5 by 2.5 in (3.8 by 6.4 cm) earthbags for a low-cost solution.\", \"描述\": \"Earthbags are low-cost structural materials that can be purchased from online suppliers. If you're looking for the simplest method of creating your bunker structure, this is the way to go. After determining the length and width of your bunker, buy the appropriate number of bags needed to cover this space.\\nConsider a bunker that is 240 feet (73 m) long and wide: it requires 1,152 bags for both the length and width—240 feet (73 m) divided by 2.5 inches (6.4 cm)—which is a total of 2,304 for 1 length and 1 width. This means that total amount of bags per layer is 2,304 x 2 (since there are 2 lengths and widths 2 per layer), or 4,608.\\nMultiply the total number of bags needed per layer by the number of layers for the total bags for your structure. For example, if each layer requires 4,608 bags and you need 6 layers, you need 27,648 earthbags in total (6 x 4,608).\\nEarth bag height will vary depending on how they're filled. After determining how many bags you need per layer, fill up one bag and measure it's height. Now, use this to determine how many layers you need. For example, if it's 1.5 foot (0.46 m) tall and you want a 15 foot (4.6 m) tall bunker, you need 7.5 layers (15/1.5).\\nSoil costs between $12 to $18 USD per cubic yard.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build your bunker from cinder blocks or bricks for better insulation.\", \"描述\": \"Head to a home hardware store to purchase cinder blocks or bricks for a very affordable price. Not only are they relatively cheap compared to the more expensive materials, but they are also sturdy, easy to install, and great for insulation.\\nSelect bricks or cinder blocks if you live in an area with extremely cold weather during the winter.\\nPurchase enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker. For example, if your bunker is 10 feet (3.0 m) long, wide, and high and your cinder blocks are 1 foot (0.30 m) long, wide and high, you need 40 for each layer (a total of 2 lengths and 2 widths) across 10 layers high for a total of 400 (40 x 10).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Digging and Constructing Your Bunker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole 2 feet (0.61 m) deeper than your bunker's height.\", \"描述\": \"Thrust your shovel down into the soil and move it forward and backward and side to side to loosen it. After loosening it, grasp the center of the handle with your non-dominant hand and grip the top of it with your dominant hand. Now, start digging your bunker hole from the perimeter of your bunker hole and move inward. Use your foot to firmly press straight down onto the shovel.\\n\\nUse a reciprocating saw or the tip of your shovel to saw through large roots.\\nLoosen rocks with a steel bar.\\nConsider hiring or renting heavy equipment to dig your hole.\\nCall 811 3 to 4 days prior to digging to make sure you can do so without damaging underground electrical structures or piping.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place your shipping container into the hole if you're using one.\", \"描述\": \"Speak to the company you purchased your container from about shipping costs and procedure. Local companies will be cheaper, while international companies will be significantly more expensive. Most companies charge a flat rate per 1 mile (1.6 km).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill and stack your earthbags with 15-25% clay soil if applicable.\", \"描述\": \"If you're making an earthbag structure, head to a local garden or big-box store and look for a sandy soil product with the appropriate clay levels. The rest of the soil should be made mostly of sandy aggregate. Now, start stacking the first row of bags. Afterward, start stacking your second row, making sure that each bag covers 1/2 of the 2 sandbags underneath it. Continue this process until the top of your sandbags are level with the ground\\nAlthough 5-35% clay works too, the ideal amount is 15-25%, so stick to that whenever possible.\\nDon't use heavy clay as it will contract when it dries and expand when wet.\\nAsk a garden store worker for soils that are used for cob, rammed earth walls, and adobe blocks.\\nDump out any soil from your sandbags as needed to create corner pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay bricks\", \"描述\": \"Start placing your bricks onto a concrete foundation and attach each piece with ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) of mortar. Work your way up about 2 to 3 courses on each side of the brick lines to create a shallow \\\"U\\\" before filling the middle.\\nDouble-check that you have enough cinder blocks or bricks for each layer of your bunker before starting.\\nYour foundation should be the same length and width as your bunker structure and about 1 foot (0.30 m) deep. Use a spirit level to check the leveling after every 4 to 5 bricks.\\nStagger each layer or brick with a half piece to give it stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use 4 mm (0.16 in) sheet metal roofing for earth bag or cinderblock structures.\", \"描述\": \"Sheet metal is the best roofing material if you're not using a shipping container. Wood isn't recommended for a roof due to its susceptibility to rot and weathering.\\nIf you're on a tight budget and want to purchase wood, make sure you use pressure treated wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install air vents in your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Find the net free area (NFA) of your vents, compare it to your bunker's square footage, and make sure the NFA is more. If not, add more vents until the total NFA is more than the square footage. Afterward, outline 7 by 15 inch (18 by 38 cm) rectangles on the ceiling for each vent. Now, drill holes into the outside corners of the rectangle and then remove it using a jigsaw. Always start by inserting the blade through one of the holes. Afterward, place a soffit vent over the rectangular holes and drill it into place with 4 to 6 screws.\\nCover the air vents on the surface with brush and rocks.\\nAlways start by installing the corner screws of the vents for stability.\\nSet your saw to medium speed and always follow the outline slowly and carefully.\\nInvest in an air filtration system for maximum air quality.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cover your bunker with 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) silo plastic.\", \"描述\": \"Silo plastic protects your bunker from water and other environmental waste while still allowing oxygen transmission. Purchase silo plastic from an online supplier for the best options. Multiply your bunker's length by its height to get the area of the roof you need to cover and purchase at least this amount. \\nWeight the silo plastic down with gravel bags, tires, tire sidewalls, or other ballast material.\\nPurchase 2 layers of silo plastic for extra protection.\\nSwap silo plastic with a plastic tarp or cover for a cheaper alternative. However, bear in mind it won't be as effective.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Hide the roof of your underground bunker from view.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent people from discovering your bunker, cover it with dirt and local fauna. Try your best to ensure that it blends into the surrounding environment as much as possible.\\nUse tire sidewalls as opposed to tires whenever possible to prevent water buildup and rodent habitat formation.\\nBuild a shed on top of your bunker's entrance to conceal it.\\nPlace an outhouse on top of the entrance to your bunker.\\nAdd some bushes and rocks from your excavation.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Power your bunker with batteries, solar panels, and generators.\", \"描述\": \"Invest in no less than eight 6-volt gel-cell batteries in your bunker at all times. In addition, consider investing in solar panels and electrical generators for long-term power sources. Just remember to run your electrical generator outside when you need to use it.\\nUse batteries to power lights and radio communication for the highest efficiency.\\nChoose diesel generators as opposed to propane or gasoline.\\nInvest in a diesel generator 2kW or smaller to charge your batteries.\\nCall a local power company and inquire about installation costs.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Invest in water tanks, filters, and heaters.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be outfitting your bunker with a toilet later, so you can focus on creating clean water or your consumption. Purchase a water tank to store your water and consider investing in a filter and heater.\\nSkip the water heater if you don't mind cold water, but remember that you'll be missing out on hot water during the winter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Outfitting and Stocking Your Bunker\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill your bunker with at least 3 days' worth of non-perishable foods and water.\", \"描述\": \"Start by filling your bunker with 3 day's worth of food and gradually add to it over time. Dehydrated meals, canned goods, dried pemmican, and rice stored in Mylar bags are all great choices, but anything with a long shelf life works. Bottled water is the simplest option, although you can invest in a water tank if you're willing to spend the money. If you're planning to house more than one person, be sure to account for extra food and water. \\nSome canned foods examples include yams, carrots, peas, green beans, fruits, chili, chicken, turkey, tuna, and salmon.\\nDry foods you can purchase include raisins, mangos, apples, apricots, rice, flour, nuts, cereal, granola, powdered milk, and pet kibble.\\nBuy some crackers, beans, canned meat, dried chickpeas, and gelatin desserts.\\nDon’t forget some comfort foods, such as your favorite candy, tea, or coffee.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stock your bunker with survival gear.\", \"描述\": \"Flashlights, a radio (self-powered or battery-powered), toilet paper, soap, fire extinguisher, and clothing are all the basics. In addition, you should stock some tweezers, scissors, a thermometer, latex gloves, and lubricant.\\nKeep a stash of non-prescription drugs like aspirin, antacids, laxatives, eye wash, rubbing alcohol, and antiseptic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a sleeping area for rest.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to add some blankets or sleeping bags, one change of clothing for each person, work boots or sturdy shoes, thermal underwear, and rain gear. Aside from these basics, add whatever else you want for comfort. \\nAdd some portable heaters for winter weather.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a portable camping or composing toilet to your bathroom area.\", \"描述\": \"Portable camping toilets require you to get rid of the waste yourself, while composting toilets turn it into fertilizer. Obviously, the latter is more ideal for long-term stays and situations when you can't leave your bunker.\\nStock your washroom area with toilet paper and cleaning supplies.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stock your kitchen area with cooking tools.\", \"描述\": \"Start by stocking your kitchen with an electric burner or microwave oven—never propane or gas stoves, which create dangerous levels of carbon monoxide. For emergency situations, keep a marine alcohol stove handy.\\nPurchase alcohol fuel from a marine or hardware store.\\nKeep your utensils, pots, pans, and other cooking supplies in your kitchen area.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a common area for relaxing.\", \"描述\": \"Add a small carpet, couch, and some chairs to relax. Afterward, add some entertainment—cards, board games, books, a television, video games, movies, dominoes, and anything else to keep you occupied.\\nAdd a small coffee table to make your bunker homier.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you're not up to create an underground bunker on your own, hire professionals to do so for you.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Watch out for cave-ins and always wear the proper safety equipment.\\n\", \"Be sure to get your bunker approved by your landowner(s) or landlord before starting.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,678 |
How to Build an Underground Fort
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1. Planning the Fort
1-1. Decide on your dimensions.
To make a simple fort you can create a 3 ft wide by 3 ft deep pit. For a more complex fort, measure from your feet to shoulders to use as the depth and your total arms span for the width of the fort. You can also make a rectangular shaped fort; remember, the dimensions are up to you.
To avoid the walls collapsing you'll want to angle each wall slightly so that the opening of the fort is a half foot wider than the base.
Digging down further than 6 feet can be dangerous and isn't recommended as it's more likely for your fort walls to collapse and cause you or others harm.
In order to avoid the walls collapsing, never dig deeper than you dig across. The ratio should at least be equal.
1-2. Draw out your plan.
To help you 'see' the final product and to catch any structural issues, you should draw a sketch of what you want your fort to look like. Do this after you've picked the location so you have an idea of what you may need to work around – such as tree stumps or roots.
An example fort plan would be a 3x3x3 foot square box dug into the ground. (You can angle the walls after digging the original design.)
Write down the dimensions so you'll stick with the right measurements once you begin digging.
Check out how much arm room you'll have by using suitable markers, pegs or flags, and arranging them on the floor, in sync with your fort dimensions. Sit in the mock fort to see if you'll be comfortable and it feels like the right width.
1-3. Do your research to find a safe place to dig.
Make sure that the spot you choose is legally your property, or that you have permission to build your fort there. Call your local government to check for utility lines where you plan to dig. The space for your fort needs to be away from gas, electric, and sewer lines.
Call 811 or any other relevant advice line where you live a couple of days before you dig and get help with locating utility lines in your area.
Check with your parents, or other authority figures, before digging to get their permission.
If there is a septic tank, the homeowner should know where it is so you can avoid it. If they don't, you may need to contact local septic tank pumping companies to ask if they've worked on it, look for records of the location in any materials you have about the property and house.
As a last resort to find the septic tank, you can scan the yard for any differences in the grass in the shape of a large rectangle. The grass may not grow in the area on top of the sewage tank, or it may be growing much greener than the grass around it depending on the sewage emissions.
1-4. Pick the location and scan for debris.
Avoid areas with lots of tree roots and rocks, which will make it difficult to dig. You may have to test out areas by digging around here and there before you find the best location, but always be sure to avoid muddy areas where water may pool into your fort after it rains. Ideally the space for your fort will have good drainage, be clear of anything sharp, and the ground will be more earth than rock.
The best location will be in a grassy field.
Avoid building an underground fort in sand.
Do not dig a fort if you are in a flood zone.
2. Digging Your Fort
2-1. Bring friends to help you.
Ask people to help dig, and always tell someone back home where you are. Even after building the fort it's safest to let someone know when you are going to be in it. If you have a cellphone, be sure to bring it in case of an emergency.
2-2. Dig your fort.
Start by grabbing your shovel and skimming off the top of the soil in the dimensions you've decided on. Check your measurements and if they're correct go ahead and begin digging out your fort. Do your best to evenly dig down and reevaluate your dimensions often so you don't dig too far off of the plan.
This will be hard work and may take a couple days, depending on the dimensions and how much time you have to dig. If you want to protect the work you've done, cover it with a tarp overnight. Hold down the corners of the tarp with small boulders or mounds of dirt.
You may want to use the dirt you've dug out to mark where your fort is to avoid anyone falling in the pit. Build it up as walls around your fort but leave one side clear to make sure you can still enter and exit your fort safely.
Otherwise, you may want to have a wheelbarrow to take the dirt to another area.
2-3. Slope your walls.
To avoid collapse you will want to shape the walls of your fort so they are slightly wider and more open than the floor. You can skim off earth around the top of the fort while standing above the fort. Work your way down so that the top of the fort is 6 inches wider than the base and scrape the walls down with a small shovel so each one angles slightly out from there.
2-4. Dig out small cubbyholes.
Create small nooks or shelves in your walls, with your hands or a small shovel, so you can keep items in the fort and have a place for your flashlight or lantern.
Though a battery-powered light works best, keeping glow sticks in your fort can be a fun way to illuminate the fort for nighttime ventures.
Avoid using candles or lighting a fire in your fort. Doing so may cause debris to fall and potentially injure someone. There is also a potential to suffocate from too much carbon monoxide.
2-5. Arrange a way to get in and out.
Depending on how deep your fort is you may want to build in a step to help you get back out of the pit you've dug. You can either carve small notches into the walls at appropriate distances for your reach to climb in and out, or you can build up a small block at the base of your fort.
To make an easy step you can use a couple of bricks or a cinder block. Just be sure to pack dirt all around the blocks, about an inch thick to cover sharp edges and corners.
To make a rope ladder get nautical rope, or nylon cord, around 1 inch in thickness and find a nearby tree or drive a post into the ground a couple feet away as an anchor for the rope. Wrap one end of your rope around the post or tree and tie an overhand knot. Tie more overhand knots in the rope at appropriate distances for you to reach with your hands and feet. Then you can cut off the end of the rope after it reaches the base of your fort. This is a fun way to climb out, but only if you already have a safe alternative such as a step.
2-6. Smooth out the walls.
The walls of your fort should be somewhat smooth and clear of tree roots or rocks that may stick out and harm you on your way in or out. To help keep your fort walls strong, put gloves on and pat the walls down. You can also use the flat side of a shovel to uniformly beat the walls until they are smooth and don't feel crumbly to the touch.
You can also cover the walls of your fort by cutting plywood boards to the size of each wall. You want the plywood flush with the walls starting at the base of the fort. Drive two pressure treated 2x4 posts down at each corner of your fort and then nail or screw the plywood edges to the 2x4s to create siding. The posts should touch on one corner, creating a small box of space at each fort corner with the 4inch side of the 2x4 flush with the walls, if you're looking from above.
2-7. Make it cozy.
Check out thrift stores for small wooden stools and tables that are the right size to bring into your fort, but only if it is large enough for a sitting area. You can also lay out a blanket for the floor, just make sure your parents don't mind it getting dirty or use one you found from a thrift store.
Take any blankets or cushions you bring out to the fort back inside after use each time so they won't become damp and get moldy.
3. Building a Roof or Cover
3-1. Use a plywood or wood cover.
To cover your fort when it's not in use, you can use a piece of plywood that is at least a couple inches larger than the fort on all sides. Drill a hole in the plywood near one end to tie nylon cord or thick rope through. Use the rope as a handle to lift the wood off the fort when you're ready to use it.
You can also horizontally stack long sticks over the entrance if they reach a few inches longer than the fort and won't fall in. For a more durable alternative, use 2x4 pieces of wood, so long as they reach.
You'll want to cover the sticks and/or 2x4s with cut-out patches of grass for excellent protection from the rain and to keep the fort insulated.
Moss is another fantastic way to cover a stick roof over your fort and make it water-tight.
3-2. Use a tarp.
Tarps are a great way to keep rain out of your fort. You can string up a tarp using trees around the area or by driving 4 poles into the ground. Pull the tarp taught to create a roof a couple feet over the fort, or drape the tarp over taught string, running right over the fort, and tie the corner to the ground to create a tarp A-frame.
You'll want to place markers around the entrance so no one will accidentally fall in the pit.
3-3. Use an above-ground shelter as a roof.
Build an A-frame or a lean-to over the entrance of your fort for more room above-ground and to help block the weather.
The A-frame is built with three initial logs; one long piece of wood held up on one end at the intersection of two shorter logs in the shape of an 'A', or upside down 'V' which have been driven into the ground. The open pit will be located in the middle of the triangle shape that the A-frame makes. Sticks are then placed parallel to the two shorter logs all the way down the body of the long piece of wood. A light layer of mud can be packed into the frame to create a roof. You can then add pine cones, needles, leaves, and other natural material on top for camouflage.
The lean-to is started by hammering two poles into the ground slightly over the fort. The poles will then hold a board up which will be the peak of a slanted roof down to the ground. Again, sticks can be nailed to the peak of the roof, gradually getting shorter until you reach the bottom of the roof where it touches the ground. This can also be packed with a layer of mud and covered with clay, leaves, pine needles, and/or other natural material to mask the roof.
Tips
Always bring a cell phone in case of an emergency.
You can also build another tunnel going down to a different room to confuse intruders and for refuge.
If you don’t know where to have build you’re fort, try exploring! Grab your bike and possibly a friend to make the adventure even better.
Warnings
Do not build an underground fort in sand, very loose soil, flood-zones, or marsh-areas.
Digging on land that isn't owned by you is against the law so make sure you're on your land parcel.
Be sure that you build your fort away from trails or footpaths. If there is traffic around the area often, the fort is more likely to cave in.
Be careful of snakes. Not the animal, but the people. If you don't want snakes in your fort, seal it with a tarp. This will keep people you don't like out.you can also set springtraps too
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Fort\\n1-1. Decide on your dimensions.\\nTo make a simple fort you can create a 3 ft wide by 3 ft deep pit. For a more complex fort, measure from your feet to shoulders to use as the depth and your total arms span for the width of the fort. You can also make a rectangular shaped fort; remember, the dimensions are up to you.\\nTo avoid the walls collapsing you'll want to angle each wall slightly so that the opening of the fort is a half foot wider than the base.\\nDigging down further than 6 feet can be dangerous and isn't recommended as it's more likely for your fort walls to collapse and cause you or others harm.\\nIn order to avoid the walls collapsing, never dig deeper than you dig across. The ratio should at least be equal.\\n1-2. Draw out your plan.\\nTo help you 'see' the final product and to catch any structural issues, you should draw a sketch of what you want your fort to look like. Do this after you've picked the location so you have an idea of what you may need to work around – such as tree stumps or roots.\\nAn example fort plan would be a 3x3x3 foot square box dug into the ground. (You can angle the walls after digging the original design.)\\nWrite down the dimensions so you'll stick with the right measurements once you begin digging.\\nCheck out how much arm room you'll have by using suitable markers, pegs or flags, and arranging them on the floor, in sync with your fort dimensions. Sit in the mock fort to see if you'll be comfortable and it feels like the right width.\\n1-3. Do your research to find a safe place to dig.\\nMake sure that the spot you choose is legally your property, or that you have permission to build your fort there. Call your local government to check for utility lines where you plan to dig. The space for your fort needs to be away from gas, electric, and sewer lines.\\nCall 811 or any other relevant advice line where you live a couple of days before you dig and get help with locating utility lines in your area. \\nCheck with your parents, or other authority figures, before digging to get their permission.\\nIf there is a septic tank, the homeowner should know where it is so you can avoid it. If they don't, you may need to contact local septic tank pumping companies to ask if they've worked on it, look for records of the location in any materials you have about the property and house.\\nAs a last resort to find the septic tank, you can scan the yard for any differences in the grass in the shape of a large rectangle. The grass may not grow in the area on top of the sewage tank, or it may be growing much greener than the grass around it depending on the sewage emissions.\\n1-4. Pick the location and scan for debris.\\nAvoid areas with lots of tree roots and rocks, which will make it difficult to dig. You may have to test out areas by digging around here and there before you find the best location, but always be sure to avoid muddy areas where water may pool into your fort after it rains. Ideally the space for your fort will have good drainage, be clear of anything sharp, and the ground will be more earth than rock.\\nThe best location will be in a grassy field.\\nAvoid building an underground fort in sand.\\nDo not dig a fort if you are in a flood zone.\\n2. Digging Your Fort\\n2-1. Bring friends to help you.\\nAsk people to help dig, and always tell someone back home where you are. Even after building the fort it's safest to let someone know when you are going to be in it. If you have a cellphone, be sure to bring it in case of an emergency.\\n2-2. Dig your fort.\\nStart by grabbing your shovel and skimming off the top of the soil in the dimensions you've decided on. Check your measurements and if they're correct go ahead and begin digging out your fort. Do your best to evenly dig down and reevaluate your dimensions often so you don't dig too far off of the plan.\\nThis will be hard work and may take a couple days, depending on the dimensions and how much time you have to dig. If you want to protect the work you've done, cover it with a tarp overnight. Hold down the corners of the tarp with small boulders or mounds of dirt.\\nYou may want to use the dirt you've dug out to mark where your fort is to avoid anyone falling in the pit. Build it up as walls around your fort but leave one side clear to make sure you can still enter and exit your fort safely.\\nOtherwise, you may want to have a wheelbarrow to take the dirt to another area.\\n2-3. Slope your walls.\\nTo avoid collapse you will want to shape the walls of your fort so they are slightly wider and more open than the floor. You can skim off earth around the top of the fort while standing above the fort. Work your way down so that the top of the fort is 6 inches wider than the base and scrape the walls down with a small shovel so each one angles slightly out from there.\\n2-4. Dig out small cubbyholes.\\nCreate small nooks or shelves in your walls, with your hands or a small shovel, so you can keep items in the fort and have a place for your flashlight or lantern.\\nThough a battery-powered light works best, keeping glow sticks in your fort can be a fun way to illuminate the fort for nighttime ventures.\\nAvoid using candles or lighting a fire in your fort. Doing so may cause debris to fall and potentially injure someone. There is also a potential to suffocate from too much carbon monoxide.\\n2-5. Arrange a way to get in and out.\\nDepending on how deep your fort is you may want to build in a step to help you get back out of the pit you've dug. You can either carve small notches into the walls at appropriate distances for your reach to climb in and out, or you can build up a small block at the base of your fort.\\nTo make an easy step you can use a couple of bricks or a cinder block. Just be sure to pack dirt all around the blocks, about an inch thick to cover sharp edges and corners.\\nTo make a rope ladder get nautical rope, or nylon cord, around 1 inch in thickness and find a nearby tree or drive a post into the ground a couple feet away as an anchor for the rope. Wrap one end of your rope around the post or tree and tie an overhand knot. Tie more overhand knots in the rope at appropriate distances for you to reach with your hands and feet. Then you can cut off the end of the rope after it reaches the base of your fort. This is a fun way to climb out, but only if you already have a safe alternative such as a step.\\n2-6. Smooth out the walls.\\nThe walls of your fort should be somewhat smooth and clear of tree roots or rocks that may stick out and harm you on your way in or out. To help keep your fort walls strong, put gloves on and pat the walls down. You can also use the flat side of a shovel to uniformly beat the walls until they are smooth and don't feel crumbly to the touch.\\nYou can also cover the walls of your fort by cutting plywood boards to the size of each wall. You want the plywood flush with the walls starting at the base of the fort. Drive two pressure treated 2x4 posts down at each corner of your fort and then nail or screw the plywood edges to the 2x4s to create siding. The posts should touch on one corner, creating a small box of space at each fort corner with the 4inch side of the 2x4 flush with the walls, if you're looking from above.\\n2-7. Make it cozy.\\nCheck out thrift stores for small wooden stools and tables that are the right size to bring into your fort, but only if it is large enough for a sitting area. You can also lay out a blanket for the floor, just make sure your parents don't mind it getting dirty or use one you found from a thrift store.\\nTake any blankets or cushions you bring out to the fort back inside after use each time so they won't become damp and get moldy.\\n3. Building a Roof or Cover\\n3-1. Use a plywood or wood cover.\\nTo cover your fort when it's not in use, you can use a piece of plywood that is at least a couple inches larger than the fort on all sides. Drill a hole in the plywood near one end to tie nylon cord or thick rope through. Use the rope as a handle to lift the wood off the fort when you're ready to use it.\\nYou can also horizontally stack long sticks over the entrance if they reach a few inches longer than the fort and won't fall in. For a more durable alternative, use 2x4 pieces of wood, so long as they reach.\\nYou'll want to cover the sticks and/or 2x4s with cut-out patches of grass for excellent protection from the rain and to keep the fort insulated.\\nMoss is another fantastic way to cover a stick roof over your fort and make it water-tight.\\n3-2. Use a tarp.\\nTarps are a great way to keep rain out of your fort. You can string up a tarp using trees around the area or by driving 4 poles into the ground. Pull the tarp taught to create a roof a couple feet over the fort, or drape the tarp over taught string, running right over the fort, and tie the corner to the ground to create a tarp A-frame.\\nYou'll want to place markers around the entrance so no one will accidentally fall in the pit.\\n3-3. Use an above-ground shelter as a roof.\\nBuild an A-frame or a lean-to over the entrance of your fort for more room above-ground and to help block the weather.\\nThe A-frame is built with three initial logs; one long piece of wood held up on one end at the intersection of two shorter logs in the shape of an 'A', or upside down 'V' which have been driven into the ground. The open pit will be located in the middle of the triangle shape that the A-frame makes. Sticks are then placed parallel to the two shorter logs all the way down the body of the long piece of wood. A light layer of mud can be packed into the frame to create a roof. You can then add pine cones, needles, leaves, and other natural material on top for camouflage.\\nThe lean-to is started by hammering two poles into the ground slightly over the fort. The poles will then hold a board up which will be the peak of a slanted roof down to the ground. Again, sticks can be nailed to the peak of the roof, gradually getting shorter until you reach the bottom of the roof where it touches the ground. This can also be packed with a layer of mud and covered with clay, leaves, pine needles, and/or other natural material to mask the roof.\\nTips\\nAlways bring a cell phone in case of an emergency.\\nYou can also build another tunnel going down to a different room to confuse intruders and for refuge.\\nIf you don’t know where to have build you’re fort, try exploring! Grab your bike and possibly a friend to make the adventure even better.\\nWarnings\\nDo not build an underground fort in sand, very loose soil, flood-zones, or marsh-areas.\\nDigging on land that isn't owned by you is against the law so make sure you're on your land parcel.\\nBe sure that you build your fort away from trails or footpaths. If there is traffic around the area often, the fort is more likely to cave in.\\nBe careful of snakes. Not the animal, but the people. If you don't want snakes in your fort, seal it with a tarp. This will keep people you don't like out.you can also set springtraps too\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Forts have been a staple in the lives of children since couch cushions and blankets were created. Making these shelters isn't rocket science, and neither is this underground version. While not all locations are ideal for digging a fort, in the right conditions and with the right guidance you can create a safe and fantastic underground hideaway!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on your dimensions.\", \"描述\": \"To make a simple fort you can create a 3 ft wide by 3 ft deep pit. For a more complex fort, measure from your feet to shoulders to use as the depth and your total arms span for the width of the fort. You can also make a rectangular shaped fort; remember, the dimensions are up to you.\\nTo avoid the walls collapsing you'll want to angle each wall slightly so that the opening of the fort is a half foot wider than the base.\\nDigging down further than 6 feet can be dangerous and isn't recommended as it's more likely for your fort walls to collapse and cause you or others harm.\\nIn order to avoid the walls collapsing, never dig deeper than you dig across. The ratio should at least be equal.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw out your plan.\", \"描述\": \"To help you 'see' the final product and to catch any structural issues, you should draw a sketch of what you want your fort to look like. Do this after you've picked the location so you have an idea of what you may need to work around – such as tree stumps or roots.\\nAn example fort plan would be a 3x3x3 foot square box dug into the ground. (You can angle the walls after digging the original design.)\\nWrite down the dimensions so you'll stick with the right measurements once you begin digging.\\nCheck out how much arm room you'll have by using suitable markers, pegs or flags, and arranging them on the floor, in sync with your fort dimensions. Sit in the mock fort to see if you'll be comfortable and it feels like the right width.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do your research to find a safe place to dig.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the spot you choose is legally your property, or that you have permission to build your fort there. Call your local government to check for utility lines where you plan to dig. The space for your fort needs to be away from gas, electric, and sewer lines.\\nCall 811 or any other relevant advice line where you live a couple of days before you dig and get help with locating utility lines in your area. \\nCheck with your parents, or other authority figures, before digging to get their permission.\\nIf there is a septic tank, the homeowner should know where it is so you can avoid it. If they don't, you may need to contact local septic tank pumping companies to ask if they've worked on it, look for records of the location in any materials you have about the property and house.\\nAs a last resort to find the septic tank, you can scan the yard for any differences in the grass in the shape of a large rectangle. The grass may not grow in the area on top of the sewage tank, or it may be growing much greener than the grass around it depending on the sewage emissions.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pick the location and scan for debris.\", \"描述\": \"Avoid areas with lots of tree roots and rocks, which will make it difficult to dig. You may have to test out areas by digging around here and there before you find the best location, but always be sure to avoid muddy areas where water may pool into your fort after it rains. Ideally the space for your fort will have good drainage, be clear of anything sharp, and the ground will be more earth than rock.\\nThe best location will be in a grassy field.\\nAvoid building an underground fort in sand.\\nDo not dig a fort if you are in a flood zone.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Digging Your Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring friends to help you.\", \"描述\": \"Ask people to help dig, and always tell someone back home where you are. Even after building the fort it's safest to let someone know when you are going to be in it. If you have a cellphone, be sure to bring it in case of an emergency.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig your fort.\", \"描述\": \"Start by grabbing your shovel and skimming off the top of the soil in the dimensions you've decided on. Check your measurements and if they're correct go ahead and begin digging out your fort. Do your best to evenly dig down and reevaluate your dimensions often so you don't dig too far off of the plan.\\nThis will be hard work and may take a couple days, depending on the dimensions and how much time you have to dig. If you want to protect the work you've done, cover it with a tarp overnight. Hold down the corners of the tarp with small boulders or mounds of dirt.\\nYou may want to use the dirt you've dug out to mark where your fort is to avoid anyone falling in the pit. Build it up as walls around your fort but leave one side clear to make sure you can still enter and exit your fort safely.\\nOtherwise, you may want to have a wheelbarrow to take the dirt to another area.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slope your walls.\", \"描述\": \"To avoid collapse you will want to shape the walls of your fort so they are slightly wider and more open than the floor. You can skim off earth around the top of the fort while standing above the fort. Work your way down so that the top of the fort is 6 inches wider than the base and scrape the walls down with a small shovel so each one angles slightly out from there.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig out small cubbyholes.\", \"描述\": \"Create small nooks or shelves in your walls, with your hands or a small shovel, so you can keep items in the fort and have a place for your flashlight or lantern.\\nThough a battery-powered light works best, keeping glow sticks in your fort can be a fun way to illuminate the fort for nighttime ventures.\\nAvoid using candles or lighting a fire in your fort. Doing so may cause debris to fall and potentially injure someone. There is also a potential to suffocate from too much carbon monoxide.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Arrange a way to get in and out.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on how deep your fort is you may want to build in a step to help you get back out of the pit you've dug. You can either carve small notches into the walls at appropriate distances for your reach to climb in and out, or you can build up a small block at the base of your fort.\\nTo make an easy step you can use a couple of bricks or a cinder block. Just be sure to pack dirt all around the blocks, about an inch thick to cover sharp edges and corners.\\nTo make a rope ladder get nautical rope, or nylon cord, around 1 inch in thickness and find a nearby tree or drive a post into the ground a couple feet away as an anchor for the rope. Wrap one end of your rope around the post or tree and tie an overhand knot. Tie more overhand knots in the rope at appropriate distances for you to reach with your hands and feet. Then you can cut off the end of the rope after it reaches the base of your fort. This is a fun way to climb out, but only if you already have a safe alternative such as a step.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Smooth out the walls.\", \"描述\": \"The walls of your fort should be somewhat smooth and clear of tree roots or rocks that may stick out and harm you on your way in or out. To help keep your fort walls strong, put gloves on and pat the walls down. You can also use the flat side of a shovel to uniformly beat the walls until they are smooth and don't feel crumbly to the touch.\\nYou can also cover the walls of your fort by cutting plywood boards to the size of each wall. You want the plywood flush with the walls starting at the base of the fort. Drive two pressure treated 2x4 posts down at each corner of your fort and then nail or screw the plywood edges to the 2x4s to create siding. The posts should touch on one corner, creating a small box of space at each fort corner with the 4inch side of the 2x4 flush with the walls, if you're looking from above.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make it cozy.\", \"描述\": \"Check out thrift stores for small wooden stools and tables that are the right size to bring into your fort, but only if it is large enough for a sitting area. You can also lay out a blanket for the floor, just make sure your parents don't mind it getting dirty or use one you found from a thrift store.\\nTake any blankets or cushions you bring out to the fort back inside after use each time so they won't become damp and get moldy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Roof or Cover\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a plywood or wood cover.\", \"描述\": \"To cover your fort when it's not in use, you can use a piece of plywood that is at least a couple inches larger than the fort on all sides. Drill a hole in the plywood near one end to tie nylon cord or thick rope through. Use the rope as a handle to lift the wood off the fort when you're ready to use it.\\nYou can also horizontally stack long sticks over the entrance if they reach a few inches longer than the fort and won't fall in. For a more durable alternative, use 2x4 pieces of wood, so long as they reach.\\nYou'll want to cover the sticks and/or 2x4s with cut-out patches of grass for excellent protection from the rain and to keep the fort insulated.\\nMoss is another fantastic way to cover a stick roof over your fort and make it water-tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a tarp.\", \"描述\": \"Tarps are a great way to keep rain out of your fort. You can string up a tarp using trees around the area or by driving 4 poles into the ground. Pull the tarp taught to create a roof a couple feet over the fort, or drape the tarp over taught string, running right over the fort, and tie the corner to the ground to create a tarp A-frame.\\nYou'll want to place markers around the entrance so no one will accidentally fall in the pit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use an above-ground shelter as a roof.\", \"描述\": \"Build an A-frame or a lean-to over the entrance of your fort for more room above-ground and to help block the weather.\\nThe A-frame is built with three initial logs; one long piece of wood held up on one end at the intersection of two shorter logs in the shape of an 'A', or upside down 'V' which have been driven into the ground. The open pit will be located in the middle of the triangle shape that the A-frame makes. Sticks are then placed parallel to the two shorter logs all the way down the body of the long piece of wood. A light layer of mud can be packed into the frame to create a roof. You can then add pine cones, needles, leaves, and other natural material on top for camouflage.\\nThe lean-to is started by hammering two poles into the ground slightly over the fort. The poles will then hold a board up which will be the peak of a slanted roof down to the ground. Again, sticks can be nailed to the peak of the roof, gradually getting shorter until you reach the bottom of the roof where it touches the ground. This can also be packed with a layer of mud and covered with clay, leaves, pine needles, and/or other natural material to mask the roof.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always bring a cell phone in case of an emergency.\\n\", \"You can also build another tunnel going down to a different room to confuse intruders and for refuge.\\n\", \"If you don’t know where to have build you’re fort, try exploring! Grab your bike and possibly a friend to make the adventure even better.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not build an underground fort in sand, very loose soil, flood-zones, or marsh-areas.\\n\", \"Digging on land that isn't owned by you is against the law so make sure you're on your land parcel.\\n\", \"Be sure that you build your fort away from trails or footpaths. If there is traffic around the area often, the fort is more likely to cave in.\\n\", \"Be careful of snakes. Not the animal, but the people. If you don't want snakes in your fort, seal it with a tarp. This will keep people you don't like out.you can also set springtraps too\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,679 |
How to Build an Underground House
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1. Preparing to Build Your Underground House
1-1. Check your zoning laws.
You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.
Fully-underground houses are actually illegal in many places because the lack of windows means they can't meet fire codes.
1-2. Get permission from the state to dig.
More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.
1-3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment.
Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.
1-4. Find someone willing to help you.
This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.
1-5. Find a suitable location.
Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.
Generally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.
You also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.
2. Designing Your Underground House
2-1. Develop detailed structural plans.
Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,
2-2. Design your house.
As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well:
If you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.
A reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.
2-3. Include an entrance and exit in your design.
This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want.
If you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.
3. Planning the Excavation
3-1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole.
Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.
You also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.
3-2. Investigate the conditions of your soil.
It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.
3-3. Consider a cut and cover strategy.
Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.
3-4. Save the excess soil.
This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.
4. Constructing Your Underground House
4-1. Build a perimeter wood frame.
You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.
4-2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation.
Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.
4-3. Create stem walls.
Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.
4-4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls.
You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house. . It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.
4-5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want.
You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.
4-6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling.
You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.
4-7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house.
Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.
4-8. Consider insulation.
Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.
5. Buying a Premade Underground House
5-1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want.
Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money. Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.
5-2. Purchase your underground house.
In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.
5-3. Obtain approval to dig on your property.
You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.
5-4. Have your underground house delivered and installed.
This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.
Tips
Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.
Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.
Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build Your Underground House\\n1-1. Check your zoning laws.\\nYou can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.\\nFully-underground houses are actually illegal in many places because the lack of windows means they can't meet fire codes.\\n1-2. Get permission from the state to dig.\\nMore official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.\\n1-3. Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment.\\nHiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.\\n1-4. Find someone willing to help you.\\nThis isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.\\n1-5. Find a suitable location.\\nLook for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.\\nGenerally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.\\nYou also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.\\n2. Designing Your Underground House\\n2-1. Develop detailed structural plans.\\nWork with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,\\n2-2. Design your house.\\nAs you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well:\\nIf you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.\\nA reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.\\n2-3. Include an entrance and exit in your design.\\nThis can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want. \\nIf you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.\\n3. Planning the Excavation\\n3-1. Develop a strategy to dig your hole.\\nRemember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.\\nYou also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.\\n3-2. Investigate the conditions of your soil.\\nIt’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.\\n3-3. Consider a cut and cover strategy.\\nCut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.\\n3-4. Save the excess soil.\\nThis is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.\\n4. Constructing Your Underground House\\n4-1. Build a perimeter wood frame.\\nYou will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.\\n4-2. Install footings to provide the base for your foundation.\\nRemember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.\\n4-3. Create stem walls.\\nStart with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.\\n4-4. Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls.\\nYou will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house. . It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.\\n4-5. Decide what kind of ceiling you want.\\nYou can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.\\n4-6. Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling.\\nYou will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.\\n4-7. Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house.\\nSet up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.\\n4-8. Consider insulation.\\nEven though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.\\n5. Buying a Premade Underground House\\n5-1. Research the kind of underground shelter you would want.\\nBelieve it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money. Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.\\n5-2. Purchase your underground house.\\nIn most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.\\n5-3. Obtain approval to dig on your property.\\nYou first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.\\n5-4. Have your underground house delivered and installed.\\nThis is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.\\nTips\\nHave your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.\\nPlan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.\\nCommit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have you ever wanted to have a house completely hidden from the view of other people? Do you like caves or the deep smell of moist earth? Do you fear the imminent apocalypse? Well, you might want to build an underground house. It will take some time and effort, but if you’re wiling to commit to the project you could have your own underground shelter sooner rather than later.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build Your Underground House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check your zoning laws.\", \"描述\": \"You can call your state to check the zoning laws of your property to see if you are allowed to put a new building on your property. You don’t want the state to ruin the fun by fining you for your newly created underground house. Even if you’re underground you're not safe from the law.\\nFully-underground houses are actually illegal in many places because the lack of windows means they can't meet fire codes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get permission from the state to dig.\", \"描述\": \"More official business. You need to pre-mark the area on your property that you want to excavate with stakes and white paint. Then you call your state’s Dig Safe branch and describe the area that you plan to dig in. Hopefully they will grant you permission. You definitely have to do this to ensure that you’re not going to dig into a sewage system or something like that.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hire a professional excavator or buy professional equipment.\", \"描述\": \"Hiring a professional to do it for you wouldn’t be the worst idea. Depending on the size of your house you probably are going to need to use heavy machinery, and if you have no experience with that hiring a professional is probably the way to go. Search for professional excavators on the internet or contact a local construction company. They should be able to quote you a cost and at the very least offer you some helpful tips. You may be able to negotiate a price to use their equipment if you can prove that you are trained to use it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find someone willing to help you.\", \"描述\": \"This isn’t a solo job even if you really want it to be. When you’re excavating or dealing with heavy materials you need someone to make sure that you are safe. You are going to be dealing with a lot of heavy materials and working in the earth and something could happen at any time. Make sure you have a partner.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find a suitable location.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a spot that is outside of your area’s 100-year flood plain and isn't near any steep slopes that might trigger a landslide. A large open space is probably best suited for an underground house, because tree roots can also cause issues during excavation. The odds are that you will be trying to build this house on your own property, so you probably don't have to worry too much but just be aware.\\nGenerally you want to stay away from any large objects like trees, boulders, or multi-story buildings.\\nYou also shouldn't place your house near any concentrations of fuel or any hazardous materials.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Underground House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop detailed structural plans.\", \"描述\": \"Work with an architect to design a scaled design and floor plan for your underground house. This plan should be complete with dimensions, details on the potential materials that will be used,\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design your house.\", \"描述\": \"As you design your house you should consider air and water filtration systems, potential light sources, and food storage space. Draw a model of your house to scale using the structural plans that you already created. Now draw in where all the installed appliances will go first, then the furniture, then anything else you would like to include in your plan. Be aware of the following constraints as well:\\nIf you are going to be underground for very long periods of time you will need to have your water set up to some sort of renewing water source and you will also need a ton of space to keep the food you have fresh. This means many refrigerators and a reliable power generator.\\nA reliable air circulation and filtration system is also crucial to avoid getting carbon dioxide poisoning or other airborne illnesses.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include an entrance and exit in your design.\", \"描述\": \"This can be as simple as a ladder with a hatch on the top or even a tunnel leading up and to the outside. The easiest option is buying a staircase. You can buy a staircase online and have it delivered to your house, so it doesn’t even need to be part of the construction if you don’t want. \\nIf you decide to use a ladder you may need to secure the ladder to the wall with metal supports. Buy U-shaped metal supports at a home improvement store and secure these into your wall over the steps of your ladder. This will keep it stable while you are climbing up and down. You can also buy airtight hatches to secure the top of your entrance. Once again it is important to make sure that your hatch is significantly wider and longer than the hole you wish to cover.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Planning the Excavation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop a strategy to dig your hole.\", \"描述\": \"Remember to dig based on the excavation area that you received permission to dig in. If you dig outside of that you risk digging into something like a sewer line or a fiber optic cable. Also know what kind of soil you'll be excavating. If you're digging into bedrock you won't get very far.\\nYou also should check your soil records at the town office before you start digging to see what you are going to be digging into and what kind of equipment you will need. Ask the clerk at the town office about your property and they will have the records available for you to see most of the time. If they don't, you might have to have someone come and survey your land.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Investigate the conditions of your soil.\", \"描述\": \"It’s incredibly important to know what kind of soil you are working with, and this will also inform your digging strategy. Have a professional come and survey your soil.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider a cut and cover strategy.\", \"描述\": \"Cut and cover works if you are digging in relatively soft soil. The idea is that you dig out an area, build a concrete structure inside of it, and then cover the hole thing up with dirt again. Obviously you want to keep your hatch or staircase exposed so that you can enter into your structure. However, if your soil will allow for it this is a good way to build a large framework for your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Save the excess soil.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially important if you plan to create a berm house. A berm house is a house that is covered by soil but still has windows and doorways to the outside. Your house will sit in a deep foundation and once you have completed the construction of the building you can push the dirt up the sides and on top of the house to create the berm look. This will require a reinforced roof.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Constructing Your Underground House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a perimeter wood frame.\", \"描述\": \"You will pour concrete into this frame in order to create a footing. The footings will form the basis for your foundation. The boards should be built according to the specifications of your foundation in your designed plan.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install footings to provide the base for your foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Remember to seal the footings to protect them from moisture. Use a high quality sealer. You can pour concrete either directly into trenches or into wood forms.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create stem walls.\", \"描述\": \"Start with the corners of the foundation and then build a plum and level wall connecting the two corners. Having something to connect the wall to on either side makes the process easier. It’s much easier to spot if the wall is out of alignment. Remove the flaws using hand trowels.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider using reinforced concrete on the walls.\", \"描述\": \"You will want to use it on the ceiling too if you plan to cover your roof heavily with dirt and soil. Living underground will keep the temperatures relatively moderate, but the earth also puts a huge amount of pressure on the walls and ceiling of your house. . It’s also essential to hire a structural engineer to design earthquake resistant elements if you live in an earthquake prone area.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide what kind of ceiling you want.\", \"描述\": \"You can choose a material as simple as wood boards or something more complex, but sturdier, like brick or concrete. If you choose brick or concrete ensure that you building has strong structural supports.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Plan to have scaffolding or brick pillars secure your ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"You will have to lay the brick yourself by buying brick and mortar and building a thick pillar up to the ceiling. A six brick base should provide a decent support. If your room is very large you will want to build a few supports. Scaffolding is something that you can buy at a home improvement store, but is more likely to bend and break. Take this step very seriously or you risk potential cave-ins.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use wood beams to outline the rooms in your house.\", \"描述\": \"Set up these rooms in accordance with your design plans. Make sure that you leave space in the walls for any potential wiring that you’ll need to do.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Consider insulation.\", \"描述\": \"Even though you’re living underground you may need insulation. This will keep your heating and cooling costs down and make your energy use much more efficient. Wait until after you have completed the wiring before you install the insulation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Buying a Premade Underground House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Research the kind of underground shelter you would want.\", \"描述\": \"Believe it or not there are plenty of companies that specialize in underground shelters. You'll be able to find a number of companies on the internet that can sell you pre-made houses in a variety of different styles. You can go pretty crazy here if you’re willing to spend a lot of money. Try to consider your price range and the amount of people that you plan to have living with you in this shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase your underground house.\", \"描述\": \"In most of these situations you have to buy the shelter outright, because generally the idea is that you’ll be holed up in the shelter once you have it. However, some of these companies offer financing.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Obtain approval to dig on your property.\", \"描述\": \"You first need to pre -mark your excavation area with white paint or stakes. Then call your state excavation number to describe the exact area where you plane to excavate. You will not be allowed to dig outside of this area. In Massachusetts this number is 8-1-1, but it varies state by state. This is important to ensure that you don't dig into a buried sewage system or fiber optic cable.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Have your underground house delivered and installed.\", \"描述\": \"This is included in the price. Make sure there is a path for their truck to deliver your new house. You can’t have your dig site all the way out in the middle of the woods if there is no road to get there.The installation may take several days, so be aware of that.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Have your house inspected by a professional so that you know it won’t collapse.\\n\", \"Plan ahead. You don’t want to work on this during the winter or inclement weather.\\n\", \"Commit time to the project. If you really want an underground house it’s going to be a long process.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,680 |
How to Build an Underground Root Cellar
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1. Steps
1-1. Understand that the key elements of a root cellar have to do with temperature, humidity and ventilation.
Keep these three details in mind and the cellar can be built using just about any method.
Building material options include native stone, concrete cinder blocks, earth-packed tires or cedar logs for walk-in root cellars. The most common of these is to use concrete cinder blocks. This material is readily available from a DIY store.
1-2. Think out of the box for your underground root cellar.
Use a fiberglass water tank. These will be easy to modify and bury.
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Bury a 50 gallon (189.3 L) plastic drum in the ground.
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1-3. Cover either of the above choices with 1 foot (30.48) of dirt or other coverage for temporary fall storage.
1-4. Locate your root cellar in an area that has good drainage away from it.
Ideally, this would be on a hill side facing north and limiting exposure to the opening of the cellar.
1-5. Excavate for the root cellar so that, when the walls are buried, you have at least 4 feet (1.22 meters) of coverage.
Ten feet (3.05 meters) is even better.
1-6. Vent the cellar by installing two PVC pipes.
One pipe must enter the root cellar low to the floor to let cool air in, and the other one needs to be near the ceiling to vent out hot air.
The vent pipes will need to be screened to keep out pests and to protect the produce from weather that is too cool or too warm. Remember, cool air settles and warm air rises.
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Ventilation is also important to remove ethylene gases that fruit and vegetables produce as they ripen. Venting ethylene gases slows down the ripening process.
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1-7. Create an entry to the root cellar.
The door to the root cellar plays a double roll -- to keep the varmints and unwanted visitors out and to keep the cool air in.
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Most root cellars have 1 door at the surface and a second at the wall that opens to the root cellar (if this exists). This entry way acts as a little extra insulation in the form of dead space to keep the cool air in.
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1-8. Cover the floor of your root cellar with gravel or even a concrete floor.
Either one can be wet down to help raise the humidity when you need it.
1-9. Choose wooden shelves over metal.
Metal transmits heat, warming up faster that wood. Wood helps you keep the temperature more in control as a result.
1-10. Place a temperature and humidity gauge in the cellar and keep a record of the readings.
This will help you to track how effective these numbers are and reflect the best way to maintain your root cellar.
Tips
Verify with local authorities that there are no underground utilities that might conflict with the excavation.[7]
X
Research source
Check your local building codes and homeowner's regulations to make sure there isn't a conflict with your root cellar. It would be a shame if you had to undo all that work because you didn't have a permit or build it to code.
Warnings
Always set back the sides of the hole on a slope when excavating in order to prevent you from being trapped in a cave in.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Understand that the key elements of a root cellar have to do with temperature, humidity and ventilation.\\nKeep these three details in mind and the cellar can be built using just about any method.\\nBuilding material options include native stone, concrete cinder blocks, earth-packed tires or cedar logs for walk-in root cellars. The most common of these is to use concrete cinder blocks. This material is readily available from a DIY store.\\n1-2. Think out of the box for your underground root cellar.\\nUse a fiberglass water tank. These will be easy to modify and bury.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b6\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b6\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nBury a 50 gallon (189.3 L) plastic drum in the ground.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/76\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/76\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Cover either of the above choices with 1 foot (30.48) of dirt or other coverage for temporary fall storage.\\n\\n1-4. Locate your root cellar in an area that has good drainage away from it.\\nIdeally, this would be on a hill side facing north and limiting exposure to the opening of the cellar.\\n1-5. Excavate for the root cellar so that, when the walls are buried, you have at least 4 feet (1.22 meters) of coverage.\\nTen feet (3.05 meters) is even better.\\n1-6. Vent the cellar by installing two PVC pipes.\\nOne pipe must enter the root cellar low to the floor to let cool air in, and the other one needs to be near the ceiling to vent out hot air.\\nThe vent pipes will need to be screened to keep out pests and to protect the produce from weather that is too cool or too warm. Remember, cool air settles and warm air rises.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/ff\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/ff\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nVentilation is also important to remove ethylene gases that fruit and vegetables produce as they ripen. Venting ethylene gases slows down the ripening process.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/37\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/37\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-7. Create an entry to the root cellar.\\nThe door to the root cellar plays a double roll -- to keep the varmints and unwanted visitors out and to keep the cool air in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nMost root cellars have 1 door at the surface and a second at the wall that opens to the root cellar (if this exists). This entry way acts as a little extra insulation in the form of dead space to keep the cool air in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/84\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/84\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-8. Cover the floor of your root cellar with gravel or even a concrete floor.\\nEither one can be wet down to help raise the humidity when you need it.\\n1-9. Choose wooden shelves over metal.\\nMetal transmits heat, warming up faster that wood. Wood helps you keep the temperature more in control as a result.\\n1-10. Place a temperature and humidity gauge in the cellar and keep a record of the readings.\\nThis will help you to track how effective these numbers are and reflect the best way to maintain your root cellar.\\nTips\\nVerify with local authorities that there are no underground utilities that might conflict with the excavation.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nCheck your local building codes and homeowner's regulations to make sure there isn't a conflict with your root cellar. It would be a shame if you had to undo all that work because you didn't have a permit or build it to code.\\nWarnings\\nAlways set back the sides of the hole on a slope when excavating in order to prevent you from being trapped in a cave in.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Your garden has come in and the bounty of it has been dispersed to family and friends. However, you still have more produce than you can consume. What to do? You can process some of it in a pressure canner or freeze it. Some vegetables, though, and a few fruits do not do well canned or frozen. Perhaps it is time to build an underground root cellar.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand that the key elements of a root cellar have to do with temperature, humidity and ventilation.\", \"描述\": \"Keep these three details in mind and the cellar can be built using just about any method.\\nBuilding material options include native stone, concrete cinder blocks, earth-packed tires or cedar logs for walk-in root cellars. The most common of these is to use concrete cinder blocks. This material is readily available from a DIY store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think out of the box for your underground root cellar.\", \"描述\": \"Use a fiberglass water tank. These will be easy to modify and bury.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b6\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b6\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nBury a 50 gallon (189.3 L) plastic drum in the ground.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/76\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/76\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover either of the above choices with 1 foot (30.48) of dirt or other coverage for temporary fall storage.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Locate your root cellar in an area that has good drainage away from it.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally, this would be on a hill side facing north and limiting exposure to the opening of the cellar.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Excavate for the root cellar so that, when the walls are buried, you have at least 4 feet (1.22 meters) of coverage.\", \"描述\": \"Ten feet (3.05 meters) is even better.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Vent the cellar by installing two PVC pipes.\", \"描述\": \"One pipe must enter the root cellar low to the floor to let cool air in, and the other one needs to be near the ceiling to vent out hot air.\\nThe vent pipes will need to be screened to keep out pests and to protect the produce from weather that is too cool or too warm. Remember, cool air settles and warm air rises.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/ff\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/ff\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nVentilation is also important to remove ethylene gases that fruit and vegetables produce as they ripen. Venting ethylene gases slows down the ripening process.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/37\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/3\\\\/37\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-6Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create an entry to the root cellar.\", \"描述\": \"The door to the root cellar plays a double roll -- to keep the varmints and unwanted visitors out and to keep the cool air in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/5d\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nMost root cellars have 1 door at the surface and a second at the wall that opens to the root cellar (if this exists). This entry way acts as a little extra insulation in the form of dead space to keep the cool air in.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/84\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/84\\\\/Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid1253149-v4-728px-Build-an-Underground-Root-Cellar-Step-7Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cover the floor of your root cellar with gravel or even a concrete floor.\", \"描述\": \"Either one can be wet down to help raise the humidity when you need it.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Choose wooden shelves over metal.\", \"描述\": \"Metal transmits heat, warming up faster that wood. Wood helps you keep the temperature more in control as a result.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Place a temperature and humidity gauge in the cellar and keep a record of the readings.\", \"描述\": \"This will help you to track how effective these numbers are and reflect the best way to maintain your root cellar.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Verify with local authorities that there are no underground utilities that might conflict with the excavation.[7]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Check your local building codes and homeowner's regulations to make sure there isn't a conflict with your root cellar. It would be a shame if you had to undo all that work because you didn't have a permit or build it to code.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always set back the sides of the hole on a slope when excavating in order to prevent you from being trapped in a cave in.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,681 |
Building and Tuning a Wind Chime at Home
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1. Materials
1-1. Choose metal tubes or pipes to produce vibrations.
The sound the chimes will make depends on many factors, such as what the chimes are made of, how long they are, and how thick they are. The most common substances for chimes are metal tubes, pipes, and rods, which you can find at hardware stores, craft stores, or from scrap metal. Try to choose pipes that have a uniform thickness on all sides for an even tone.
Pipes and tubes are the same in wind chimes. Rods are not hollow and sustain notes longer.
Hard metals such as steel and aluminum produce sharper tones. Soft metals such as copper produce softer tones.
Metal objects are good at producing vibrations, so non-metal chimes such as glass sound more hollow.
To test out the sounds of different metal pipes such as copper or aluminum, visit a chime store or rap on the pipes with something that creates vibration, such as a piece of wood.
You’ll be creating 5 to 8 chimes out of your pipes or rods. Depending on how long you’d like your chimes to be, you may need to buy multiple pipes and rods, or just 1 very long one.
1-2. Buy synthetic cord to hold the pipes.
These lines connect the base from which the chimes dangle to whatever holds the wind chime. Cords such as strong nylon are good for bearing the weight of the wind chime and can also be used when connecting the chimes and the striker.
The support line material has little impact on the sound. It's how you hang the chimes that will determine sound, so choose line materials that will last.
If you want to hang the chime from a hook or a tree, buy a metal ring to tie to the lines at the top of the chime.
1-3. Pick out a wooden striker.
Also called a clapper, the striker is the piece that fits between the chimes and bumps into them to create the vibrations that cause sound. Possible choices for strikers include redwood or hockey pucks.
Strikers are often circular so that they can hit all chimes equally. Strikers can also be star-shaped, but these hit all chimes at the same time with less force.
1-4. Cut a wooden suspension platform that’s bigger than the striker.
The platform holds the chimes, letting them hang around the object that will strike them. Cut a circular piece of wood big enough for your design that’s 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wider than the striker.
Suspension platforms are often made out of wood, metal, or plastic.
1-5. Pick out a block of wood for the sail.
The sail is the part that hangs from the striker. Extending lower than the chimes, it gets caught up in the wind, forcing the striker to move into the chimes. Sails are often rectangular or rounded and made of a substance that can be moved by a decent wind, such as a block of wood.
The sail can be carved from wood into many artistic forms, such as animal shapes, but you may find it easier to choose a simple block of wood that you can drill into and hang from the striker with a suspension line.
A small sail will be less durable, but a bigger sail will require more wind to move.
2. Suspension Platform
2-1. Mark 5 to 8 points on the base.
Find the center of the base and mark it. Then, measure 5 to 8 equidistant points around the edge of the base that are all equally as far away from the center. Mark those points with a pencil as well.
Mark the other side of the base, too, to indicate where you plan on drilling holes to make the base hang from the wind chime's point of suspension if needed.
Keep the holes at least ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) away from the edge of the base.
2-2. Drill the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit.
Clamp the base to a work bench or table, then use a drill with a drill bit. Drill through each marked point, and then drill through the very center of the base (to create an opening for the striker).
2-3. Thread the sail and striker with a piece of suspension line.
The length of the line is up to you: it all depends on how long you’d like these pieces to hang. For a 5 ft (1.5 m) thread, for example, fold the thread in half, then pull it through the sail and knot it. Make a second large knot where the striker will hang about 16 in (41 cm) or less above, then thread it through the striker.
Try to keep the sail close to the bottom of the longest chime. The longer the sail's support line, the stronger the wind has to be to move the sail and its extra weight.
Remember that wind velocity is often stronger the higher you hang the wind chime, so a sail too close to the ground also won't cause the chimes to sound as much.
2-4. Attach the striker to the base with cord.
Take the thread coming out of the top of the striker and run it through the hole you made in the center of the platform. On the top side, knot the thread securely.
If you decide you don’t like the length of the striker, you can adjust it later on.
3. Creating Chimes
3-1. Plan the tones that you want.
The length and size that you cut your pipes determines which tones your chimes will make. In general, shorter chimes produce higher-pitched tones, while longer chimes create lower-pitched tones. Many commercial chimes play a 5-note pentatonic scale. For a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide pipe on a C octave, for instance, you might use these measurements:
C9: 6.5 in (17 cm) long pipe
C8: 9.18 in (23.3 cm) long pipe
C7: 13 in (33 cm) long pipe
C6: 18.9 in (48 cm) long pipe
C5: 26 in (66 cm) long pipe
Looking for other scales? Check out this chart to find the notes and their chime measurements.
3-2. Cut the chimes using a pipe cutter, hacksaw, or hand saw.
Measure the length onto your chime material and mark it with a marker. Clamp the chime onto a workbench, then use your tool of choice to cut all the way through. For hand saws, be sure to choose a blade that is made for the kind of metal you are cutting.
Your local hardware store may be able to cut the pipes for you. Just be sure to have your measurements handy.
If you have a piano, tune the chimes by playing a note and matching the sound they make when you rap on them. Then, cut off more of the chime as needed.
3-3. Sand the edges to get rid of sharp points.
Wrap the pipes in towels to protect them. Use a file or sander to wear down the sharp edges on points and get rid of any areas that might cut your skin or catch on your clothing. If you didn't cut enough off the pipes, you can sand off the excess here. Unless you're removing significant portions of the material, which makes the pitch higher, the chime's sound won't change.
3-4. Drill holes into the top of the pipes.
The top holes are how the cord threads through each pipe to attach it to the base. Clamp each chime down once again, then use a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill a hole straight through the pipe.
3-5. Tie each chime about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) below the suspension platform.
Cut a length of thread for each chime, then pull the thread through the holes at the top. Tie the chimes onto the base so they’re all an equal distance from it.
Chimes that hang too low are more vulnerable in wind and move more, making the wind chime out of tune because the striker doesn't hit them evenly.
Tips
Be sure to keep testing your chime as you create it in order to achieve your own sound and sight preferences.
Warnings
Cut material only with the proper safety gear and blades.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Materials\\n1-1. Choose metal tubes or pipes to produce vibrations.\\nThe sound the chimes will make depends on many factors, such as what the chimes are made of, how long they are, and how thick they are. The most common substances for chimes are metal tubes, pipes, and rods, which you can find at hardware stores, craft stores, or from scrap metal. Try to choose pipes that have a uniform thickness on all sides for an even tone.\\nPipes and tubes are the same in wind chimes. Rods are not hollow and sustain notes longer.\\nHard metals such as steel and aluminum produce sharper tones. Soft metals such as copper produce softer tones.\\nMetal objects are good at producing vibrations, so non-metal chimes such as glass sound more hollow.\\nTo test out the sounds of different metal pipes such as copper or aluminum, visit a chime store or rap on the pipes with something that creates vibration, such as a piece of wood.\\nYou’ll be creating 5 to 8 chimes out of your pipes or rods. Depending on how long you’d like your chimes to be, you may need to buy multiple pipes and rods, or just 1 very long one.\\n1-2. Buy synthetic cord to hold the pipes.\\nThese lines connect the base from which the chimes dangle to whatever holds the wind chime. Cords such as strong nylon are good for bearing the weight of the wind chime and can also be used when connecting the chimes and the striker.\\nThe support line material has little impact on the sound. It's how you hang the chimes that will determine sound, so choose line materials that will last.\\nIf you want to hang the chime from a hook or a tree, buy a metal ring to tie to the lines at the top of the chime.\\n1-3. Pick out a wooden striker.\\nAlso called a clapper, the striker is the piece that fits between the chimes and bumps into them to create the vibrations that cause sound. Possible choices for strikers include redwood or hockey pucks.\\nStrikers are often circular so that they can hit all chimes equally. Strikers can also be star-shaped, but these hit all chimes at the same time with less force.\\n1-4. Cut a wooden suspension platform that’s bigger than the striker.\\nThe platform holds the chimes, letting them hang around the object that will strike them. Cut a circular piece of wood big enough for your design that’s 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wider than the striker.\\nSuspension platforms are often made out of wood, metal, or plastic.\\n1-5. Pick out a block of wood for the sail.\\nThe sail is the part that hangs from the striker. Extending lower than the chimes, it gets caught up in the wind, forcing the striker to move into the chimes. Sails are often rectangular or rounded and made of a substance that can be moved by a decent wind, such as a block of wood.\\nThe sail can be carved from wood into many artistic forms, such as animal shapes, but you may find it easier to choose a simple block of wood that you can drill into and hang from the striker with a suspension line.\\nA small sail will be less durable, but a bigger sail will require more wind to move.\\n2. Suspension Platform\\n2-1. Mark 5 to 8 points on the base.\\nFind the center of the base and mark it. Then, measure 5 to 8 equidistant points around the edge of the base that are all equally as far away from the center. Mark those points with a pencil as well.\\nMark the other side of the base, too, to indicate where you plan on drilling holes to make the base hang from the wind chime's point of suspension if needed.\\nKeep the holes at least ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) away from the edge of the base.\\n2-2. Drill the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit.\\nClamp the base to a work bench or table, then use a drill with a drill bit. Drill through each marked point, and then drill through the very center of the base (to create an opening for the striker).\\n2-3. Thread the sail and striker with a piece of suspension line.\\nThe length of the line is up to you: it all depends on how long you’d like these pieces to hang. For a 5 ft (1.5 m) thread, for example, fold the thread in half, then pull it through the sail and knot it. Make a second large knot where the striker will hang about 16 in (41 cm) or less above, then thread it through the striker.\\nTry to keep the sail close to the bottom of the longest chime. The longer the sail's support line, the stronger the wind has to be to move the sail and its extra weight.\\nRemember that wind velocity is often stronger the higher you hang the wind chime, so a sail too close to the ground also won't cause the chimes to sound as much.\\n2-4. Attach the striker to the base with cord.\\nTake the thread coming out of the top of the striker and run it through the hole you made in the center of the platform. On the top side, knot the thread securely.\\nIf you decide you don’t like the length of the striker, you can adjust it later on.\\n3. Creating Chimes\\n3-1. Plan the tones that you want.\\nThe length and size that you cut your pipes determines which tones your chimes will make. In general, shorter chimes produce higher-pitched tones, while longer chimes create lower-pitched tones. Many commercial chimes play a 5-note pentatonic scale. For a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide pipe on a C octave, for instance, you might use these measurements:\\nC9: 6.5 in (17 cm) long pipe\\nC8: 9.18 in (23.3 cm) long pipe\\nC7: 13 in (33 cm) long pipe\\nC6: 18.9 in (48 cm) long pipe\\nC5: 26 in (66 cm) long pipe\\nLooking for other scales? Check out this chart to find the notes and their chime measurements.\\n3-2. Cut the chimes using a pipe cutter, hacksaw, or hand saw.\\nMeasure the length onto your chime material and mark it with a marker. Clamp the chime onto a workbench, then use your tool of choice to cut all the way through. For hand saws, be sure to choose a blade that is made for the kind of metal you are cutting.\\nYour local hardware store may be able to cut the pipes for you. Just be sure to have your measurements handy.\\nIf you have a piano, tune the chimes by playing a note and matching the sound they make when you rap on them. Then, cut off more of the chime as needed.\\n3-3. Sand the edges to get rid of sharp points.\\nWrap the pipes in towels to protect them. Use a file or sander to wear down the sharp edges on points and get rid of any areas that might cut your skin or catch on your clothing. If you didn't cut enough off the pipes, you can sand off the excess here. Unless you're removing significant portions of the material, which makes the pitch higher, the chime's sound won't change.\\n3-4. Drill holes into the top of the pipes.\\nThe top holes are how the cord threads through each pipe to attach it to the base. Clamp each chime down once again, then use a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill a hole straight through the pipe.\\n3-5. Tie each chime about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) below the suspension platform.\\nCut a length of thread for each chime, then pull the thread through the holes at the top. Tie the chimes onto the base so they’re all an equal distance from it.\\nChimes that hang too low are more vulnerable in wind and move more, making the wind chime out of tune because the striker doesn't hit them evenly.\\nTips\\nBe sure to keep testing your chime as you create it in order to achieve your own sound and sight preferences.\\nWarnings\\nCut material only with the proper safety gear and blades.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you love it when it’s windy out and you can hear the sounds of your neighbor’s wind chimes? These soothing, whimsical instruments make going outdoors that much more relaxing. And whether you’re an avid DIYer or a beginner craftsman, you can create your very own wind chime following our instructions. Keep reading to learn the materials you’ll need, the steps you should take, and the tuning process for your wind chime.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose metal tubes or pipes to produce vibrations.\", \"描述\": \"The sound the chimes will make depends on many factors, such as what the chimes are made of, how long they are, and how thick they are. The most common substances for chimes are metal tubes, pipes, and rods, which you can find at hardware stores, craft stores, or from scrap metal. Try to choose pipes that have a uniform thickness on all sides for an even tone.\\nPipes and tubes are the same in wind chimes. Rods are not hollow and sustain notes longer.\\nHard metals such as steel and aluminum produce sharper tones. Soft metals such as copper produce softer tones.\\nMetal objects are good at producing vibrations, so non-metal chimes such as glass sound more hollow.\\nTo test out the sounds of different metal pipes such as copper or aluminum, visit a chime store or rap on the pipes with something that creates vibration, such as a piece of wood.\\nYou’ll be creating 5 to 8 chimes out of your pipes or rods. Depending on how long you’d like your chimes to be, you may need to buy multiple pipes and rods, or just 1 very long one.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy synthetic cord to hold the pipes.\", \"描述\": \"These lines connect the base from which the chimes dangle to whatever holds the wind chime. Cords such as strong nylon are good for bearing the weight of the wind chime and can also be used when connecting the chimes and the striker.\\nThe support line material has little impact on the sound. It's how you hang the chimes that will determine sound, so choose line materials that will last.\\nIf you want to hang the chime from a hook or a tree, buy a metal ring to tie to the lines at the top of the chime.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pick out a wooden striker.\", \"描述\": \"Also called a clapper, the striker is the piece that fits between the chimes and bumps into them to create the vibrations that cause sound. Possible choices for strikers include redwood or hockey pucks.\\nStrikers are often circular so that they can hit all chimes equally. Strikers can also be star-shaped, but these hit all chimes at the same time with less force.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut a wooden suspension platform that’s bigger than the striker.\", \"描述\": \"The platform holds the chimes, letting them hang around the object that will strike them. Cut a circular piece of wood big enough for your design that’s 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wider than the striker.\\nSuspension platforms are often made out of wood, metal, or plastic.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick out a block of wood for the sail.\", \"描述\": \"The sail is the part that hangs from the striker. Extending lower than the chimes, it gets caught up in the wind, forcing the striker to move into the chimes. Sails are often rectangular or rounded and made of a substance that can be moved by a decent wind, such as a block of wood.\\nThe sail can be carved from wood into many artistic forms, such as animal shapes, but you may find it easier to choose a simple block of wood that you can drill into and hang from the striker with a suspension line.\\nA small sail will be less durable, but a bigger sail will require more wind to move.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Suspension Platform\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark 5 to 8 points on the base.\", \"描述\": \"Find the center of the base and mark it. Then, measure 5 to 8 equidistant points around the edge of the base that are all equally as far away from the center. Mark those points with a pencil as well.\\nMark the other side of the base, too, to indicate where you plan on drilling holes to make the base hang from the wind chime's point of suspension if needed.\\nKeep the holes at least ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) away from the edge of the base.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drill the holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the base to a work bench or table, then use a drill with a drill bit. Drill through each marked point, and then drill through the very center of the base (to create an opening for the striker).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Thread the sail and striker with a piece of suspension line.\", \"描述\": \"The length of the line is up to you: it all depends on how long you’d like these pieces to hang. For a 5 ft (1.5 m) thread, for example, fold the thread in half, then pull it through the sail and knot it. Make a second large knot where the striker will hang about 16 in (41 cm) or less above, then thread it through the striker.\\nTry to keep the sail close to the bottom of the longest chime. The longer the sail's support line, the stronger the wind has to be to move the sail and its extra weight.\\nRemember that wind velocity is often stronger the higher you hang the wind chime, so a sail too close to the ground also won't cause the chimes to sound as much.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the striker to the base with cord.\", \"描述\": \"Take the thread coming out of the top of the striker and run it through the hole you made in the center of the platform. On the top side, knot the thread securely.\\nIf you decide you don’t like the length of the striker, you can adjust it later on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating Chimes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the tones that you want.\", \"描述\": \"The length and size that you cut your pipes determines which tones your chimes will make. In general, shorter chimes produce higher-pitched tones, while longer chimes create lower-pitched tones. Many commercial chimes play a 5-note pentatonic scale. For a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide pipe on a C octave, for instance, you might use these measurements:\\nC9: 6.5 in (17 cm) long pipe\\nC8: 9.18 in (23.3 cm) long pipe\\nC7: 13 in (33 cm) long pipe\\nC6: 18.9 in (48 cm) long pipe\\nC5: 26 in (66 cm) long pipe\\nLooking for other scales? Check out this chart to find the notes and their chime measurements.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the chimes using a pipe cutter, hacksaw, or hand saw.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the length onto your chime material and mark it with a marker. Clamp the chime onto a workbench, then use your tool of choice to cut all the way through. For hand saws, be sure to choose a blade that is made for the kind of metal you are cutting.\\nYour local hardware store may be able to cut the pipes for you. Just be sure to have your measurements handy.\\nIf you have a piano, tune the chimes by playing a note and matching the sound they make when you rap on them. Then, cut off more of the chime as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sand the edges to get rid of sharp points.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the pipes in towels to protect them. Use a file or sander to wear down the sharp edges on points and get rid of any areas that might cut your skin or catch on your clothing. If you didn't cut enough off the pipes, you can sand off the excess here. Unless you're removing significant portions of the material, which makes the pitch higher, the chime's sound won't change.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill holes into the top of the pipes.\", \"描述\": \"The top holes are how the cord threads through each pipe to attach it to the base. Clamp each chime down once again, then use a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill a hole straight through the pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie each chime about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) below the suspension platform.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a length of thread for each chime, then pull the thread through the holes at the top. Tie the chimes onto the base so they’re all an equal distance from it.\\nChimes that hang too low are more vulnerable in wind and move more, making the wind chime out of tune because the striker doesn't hit them evenly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Be sure to keep testing your chime as you create it in order to achieve your own sound and sight preferences.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Cut material only with the proper safety gear and blades.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,682 |
How to Build and Use a Pendulum
|
1. Making a Simple Pendulum
1-1. Tape a pencil horizontally to the top of a table.
Lay a pencil on its side and use clear tape to firmly fasten it to a tabletop. Leave about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of the pencil hanging over the edge. The pencil will anchor your pendulum and keep it from falling down, so be sure to use enough tape to secure it and keep it from moving around.
Test the pencil by flicking it with your finger. It should stay stuck to the tabletop.
1-2. Tie a loop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter at one end of a string.
Take a length of string 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) long and curl one end to form a loop. The loop needs to fit around the pencil, but not too tight or it won’t swing properly. Tie a knot with the loop to keep it from coming undone.
Slide the loop onto the pencil and slide it off to make sure it’s not too tight.
1-3. Make a small ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) hook with a metal wire.
Take a 2 in (5.1 cm) length of metal wire and curl one end of it into a “J” shape to form your hook. The hook will hold the weight that swings the pendulum so shape your hook so it’s easy to attach and remove nuts onto it to alter the weight of the pendulum.
You can use pliers to curl the metal wire.
1-4. Slide a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) nut onto the end of the hook.
Use a standard metallic nut as the weight for your pendulum. The hole in the center makes a nut ideal for sliding onto the hook, and you can easily add or remove nuts to experiment with different weights. Slide the nut onto the hook so that it’s not able to fall or slide off when the pendulum swings.
Do not close the hook around the nut.
1-5. Tape a piece of paper on a wall or table behind the hook.
You can use the paper to mark where you release the pendulum each time so you can see the way the pendulum behaves and swings based on where you release it. Tape the paper so that it is a backdrop behind the hook with the nut on it.
Any color paper is fine, as long as you can see the pencil markings.
2. Experimenting with the Pendulum
2-1. Pull the hook with the nut on it back about 20 inches (51 cm).
Before you release it, use your pencil to mark on the paper taped behind the pendulum where you release it from. That way, you can repeat the experiment by letting the pendulum go from the same place each time.
You need to have a consistent release point for accurate results in your experiments!
2-2. Release the pendulum and start a stopwatch.
When you release the pendulum, count the number of oscillations, or the number of times it swings back and forth, for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, releasing the pendulum from the same spot on the paper each time.
Let the pendulum fall on its own; don’t swing or push it.
Write down the number of oscillations so you can calculate an average.
2-3. Calculate the average of the oscillations.
Take the number of oscillations from each time you released the pendulum, add them all together, then divide the number by 5. This is the average number of oscillations the pendulum completes from that distance and at that weight.
3. Testing the Physics of a Pendulum
3-1. Add a nut to the hook to see what difference the mass makes.
Add a second nut to the hook and bring the pendulum back to where you marked on the paper the first time. When you release the pendulum, start a stopwatch and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, then calculate your average.
Notice the difference in the number of oscillations and the average between 1 nut on the hook and 2 nuts on the hook.
Add another nut and repeat the experiment to see if even more mass will affect the pendulum’s oscillations.
3-2. Change the distance to see how it affects the oscillations.
Go back to just 1 nut on the hook, bring the string back about 10 inches (25 cm), and make a mark on the paper taped behind it so you can repeat the experiment from the same distance. Release the pendulum and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times and calculate an average.
You may be surprised to learn that the distance (also called amplitude) does not affect the swing rate, or number of oscillations.
Try the experiment again from 5 inches (13 cm) and find the average number of oscillations to see how much of a difference the distance makes.
3-3. Cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of the string to see the effects.
Slide the look off of the pencil and cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of string, tie another loop, and put it back on the pencil. Then bring the pendulum back about 10 inches (25 cm) and mark on the paper where you release it from. Repeat the experiment 5 times and find the average number of oscillations to see how the length of the string affects the pendulum.
Cut off another 10 inches (25 cm) of string to see the difference it makes on the average number of oscillations.
The length from which a pendulum is suspended helps determine the speed and regularity of the swings, which is why pendulums have been used to keep time.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:24",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Pendulum\\n1-1. Tape a pencil horizontally to the top of a table.\\nLay a pencil on its side and use clear tape to firmly fasten it to a tabletop. Leave about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of the pencil hanging over the edge. The pencil will anchor your pendulum and keep it from falling down, so be sure to use enough tape to secure it and keep it from moving around.\\nTest the pencil by flicking it with your finger. It should stay stuck to the tabletop.\\n1-2. Tie a loop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter at one end of a string.\\nTake a length of string 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) long and curl one end to form a loop. The loop needs to fit around the pencil, but not too tight or it won’t swing properly. Tie a knot with the loop to keep it from coming undone.\\nSlide the loop onto the pencil and slide it off to make sure it’s not too tight.\\n1-3. Make a small ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) hook with a metal wire.\\nTake a 2 in (5.1 cm) length of metal wire and curl one end of it into a “J” shape to form your hook. The hook will hold the weight that swings the pendulum so shape your hook so it’s easy to attach and remove nuts onto it to alter the weight of the pendulum.\\nYou can use pliers to curl the metal wire.\\n1-4. Slide a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) nut onto the end of the hook.\\nUse a standard metallic nut as the weight for your pendulum. The hole in the center makes a nut ideal for sliding onto the hook, and you can easily add or remove nuts to experiment with different weights. Slide the nut onto the hook so that it’s not able to fall or slide off when the pendulum swings.\\nDo not close the hook around the nut.\\n1-5. Tape a piece of paper on a wall or table behind the hook.\\nYou can use the paper to mark where you release the pendulum each time so you can see the way the pendulum behaves and swings based on where you release it. Tape the paper so that it is a backdrop behind the hook with the nut on it.\\nAny color paper is fine, as long as you can see the pencil markings.\\n2. Experimenting with the Pendulum\\n2-1. Pull the hook with the nut on it back about 20 inches (51 cm).\\nBefore you release it, use your pencil to mark on the paper taped behind the pendulum where you release it from. That way, you can repeat the experiment by letting the pendulum go from the same place each time.\\nYou need to have a consistent release point for accurate results in your experiments!\\n2-2. Release the pendulum and start a stopwatch.\\nWhen you release the pendulum, count the number of oscillations, or the number of times it swings back and forth, for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, releasing the pendulum from the same spot on the paper each time.\\nLet the pendulum fall on its own; don’t swing or push it.\\nWrite down the number of oscillations so you can calculate an average.\\n2-3. Calculate the average of the oscillations.\\nTake the number of oscillations from each time you released the pendulum, add them all together, then divide the number by 5. This is the average number of oscillations the pendulum completes from that distance and at that weight.\\n3. Testing the Physics of a Pendulum\\n3-1. Add a nut to the hook to see what difference the mass makes.\\nAdd a second nut to the hook and bring the pendulum back to where you marked on the paper the first time. When you release the pendulum, start a stopwatch and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, then calculate your average.\\nNotice the difference in the number of oscillations and the average between 1 nut on the hook and 2 nuts on the hook.\\nAdd another nut and repeat the experiment to see if even more mass will affect the pendulum’s oscillations.\\n3-2. Change the distance to see how it affects the oscillations.\\nGo back to just 1 nut on the hook, bring the string back about 10 inches (25 cm), and make a mark on the paper taped behind it so you can repeat the experiment from the same distance. Release the pendulum and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times and calculate an average.\\nYou may be surprised to learn that the distance (also called amplitude) does not affect the swing rate, or number of oscillations.\\nTry the experiment again from 5 inches (13 cm) and find the average number of oscillations to see how much of a difference the distance makes.\\n3-3. Cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of the string to see the effects.\\nSlide the look off of the pencil and cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of string, tie another loop, and put it back on the pencil. Then bring the pendulum back about 10 inches (25 cm) and mark on the paper where you release it from. Repeat the experiment 5 times and find the average number of oscillations to see how the length of the string affects the pendulum.\\nCut off another 10 inches (25 cm) of string to see the difference it makes on the average number of oscillations.\\nThe length from which a pendulum is suspended helps determine the speed and regularity of the swings, which is why pendulums have been used to keep time.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A pendulum is a device that uses gravity to swing a weight back and forth. Because of their consistent and measurable swings, or oscillations as they’re called, pendulums have been used for hundreds of years to keep time. Part of the beauty of a pendulum is its simplicity. With a few supplies, you can build and use your own pendulum to try out different experiments to see how the physics of a pendulum work.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Pendulum\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tape a pencil horizontally to the top of a table.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a pencil on its side and use clear tape to firmly fasten it to a tabletop. Leave about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) of the pencil hanging over the edge. The pencil will anchor your pendulum and keep it from falling down, so be sure to use enough tape to secure it and keep it from moving around.\\nTest the pencil by flicking it with your finger. It should stay stuck to the tabletop.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tie a loop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter at one end of a string.\", \"描述\": \"Take a length of string 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) long and curl one end to form a loop. The loop needs to fit around the pencil, but not too tight or it won’t swing properly. Tie a knot with the loop to keep it from coming undone.\\nSlide the loop onto the pencil and slide it off to make sure it’s not too tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a small ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) hook with a metal wire.\", \"描述\": \"Take a 2 in (5.1 cm) length of metal wire and curl one end of it into a “J” shape to form your hook. The hook will hold the weight that swings the pendulum so shape your hook so it’s easy to attach and remove nuts onto it to alter the weight of the pendulum.\\nYou can use pliers to curl the metal wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide a ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) nut onto the end of the hook.\", \"描述\": \"Use a standard metallic nut as the weight for your pendulum. The hole in the center makes a nut ideal for sliding onto the hook, and you can easily add or remove nuts to experiment with different weights. Slide the nut onto the hook so that it’s not able to fall or slide off when the pendulum swings.\\nDo not close the hook around the nut.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tape a piece of paper on a wall or table behind the hook.\", \"描述\": \"You can use the paper to mark where you release the pendulum each time so you can see the way the pendulum behaves and swings based on where you release it. Tape the paper so that it is a backdrop behind the hook with the nut on it.\\nAny color paper is fine, as long as you can see the pencil markings.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Experimenting with the Pendulum\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pull the hook with the nut on it back about 20 inches (51 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Before you release it, use your pencil to mark on the paper taped behind the pendulum where you release it from. That way, you can repeat the experiment by letting the pendulum go from the same place each time.\\nYou need to have a consistent release point for accurate results in your experiments!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Release the pendulum and start a stopwatch.\", \"描述\": \"When you release the pendulum, count the number of oscillations, or the number of times it swings back and forth, for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, releasing the pendulum from the same spot on the paper each time.\\nLet the pendulum fall on its own; don’t swing or push it.\\nWrite down the number of oscillations so you can calculate an average.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Calculate the average of the oscillations.\", \"描述\": \"Take the number of oscillations from each time you released the pendulum, add them all together, then divide the number by 5. This is the average number of oscillations the pendulum completes from that distance and at that weight.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Testing the Physics of a Pendulum\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add a nut to the hook to see what difference the mass makes.\", \"描述\": \"Add a second nut to the hook and bring the pendulum back to where you marked on the paper the first time. When you release the pendulum, start a stopwatch and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times, then calculate your average.\\nNotice the difference in the number of oscillations and the average between 1 nut on the hook and 2 nuts on the hook.\\nAdd another nut and repeat the experiment to see if even more mass will affect the pendulum’s oscillations.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Change the distance to see how it affects the oscillations.\", \"描述\": \"Go back to just 1 nut on the hook, bring the string back about 10 inches (25 cm), and make a mark on the paper taped behind it so you can repeat the experiment from the same distance. Release the pendulum and count the number of oscillations for 1 minute. Repeat the process 5 times and calculate an average.\\nYou may be surprised to learn that the distance (also called amplitude) does not affect the swing rate, or number of oscillations.\\nTry the experiment again from 5 inches (13 cm) and find the average number of oscillations to see how much of a difference the distance makes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of the string to see the effects.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the look off of the pencil and cut off 10 inches (25 cm) of string, tie another loop, and put it back on the pencil. Then bring the pendulum back about 10 inches (25 cm) and mark on the paper where you release it from. Repeat the experiment 5 times and find the average number of oscillations to see how the length of the string affects the pendulum.\\nCut off another 10 inches (25 cm) of string to see the difference it makes on the average number of oscillations.\\nThe length from which a pendulum is suspended helps determine the speed and regularity of the swings, which is why pendulums have been used to keep time.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,683 |
How to Build in Minecraft
|
1. Learning Building Basics
1-1. Know the popular building materials.
One of the joys of playing Minecraft is that you can build anything out of virtually any material; however, popular building materials include the following:
Dirt, sand, & gravel — Gathered by mining the proper item with your hand or any tool. Sand and gravel are susceptible to gravity, so they must be stacked on each other or on top of other blocks.
Cobblestone & sandstone — Gathered by mining the proper stone with any pickaxe.
Wood — Gathered by mining any tree using your hand or any tool. Can be turned into wood planks to quadruple the amount of wood per yield (e.g., one wood block results in four wood plank blocks).
Wool — Gathered by killing (or shearing) sheep. While it isn't a particularly sturdy building material, wool is used for adding colors to your house and creating beds.
1-2. Understand the properties of different materials.
Things like dirt and sand, while easy to find, offer little in the way of protection from enemies. On the other hand, cobblestone and granite are significantly more stable, but require more effort to obtain.
1-3. Plan out your structure before building it.
Before you begin searching for resources, it's a good idea to know what you want your structure to look like. This can include anything from having a general idea of your structure's assembly to drawing a sketch of the structure and labeling each of the materials you want to use.
1-4. Collect building materials which don't require tools.
You can use your bare hands to collect any of the following resources:
Dirt
Sand
Gravel
Wood
1-5. Make the necessary tools
You'll need at least a wooden pickaxe to collect any of the following resources, though they're well-worth the trouble:
Cobblestone
Sandstone
Granite
Some resources, such as obsidian, require higher-level pickaxes (for example, obsidian requires a diamond pickaxe to mine).
While tools like shovels and axes aren't required to gather dirt (or wood, or sand) and wood respectively, these tools drastically increase the speed with which you gather the pertinent materials.
1-6. Consider adding a bed to your structure.
Sleeping in a bed at night both resets your spawn point to the bed and allows you to bypass the night cycle, thus preventing the bulk of mobs from disturbing you. Especially if you're building far away from your current spawn point, having a bed will ensure that you'll always be able to find your way back to your build site.
2. Building a Basic Structure
2-1. Collect your preferred building materials.
Before you set out to create your structure, make sure that you have a few stacks each of your preferred flooring material, your preferred primary building material (e.g., what you'll use to create the walls), and any additional materials you want to use.
A "stack" holds 64 items.
2-2. Find a building location.
Depending on your personal preferences, the ideal building location will vary. A common choice is to build in a forested area near water due to the availability of resources, but you might want to build on top of a mountain or inside of a cave instead.
You can even build in the middle of a lake or other body of water if your resources permit it.
2-3. Dig out a foundation.
Remove at least one layer of blocks from a five-by-five grid of space. This should leave you with a one-block-deep hole in the ground.
You can go larger than five-by-five if you like, though going smaller isn't recommended due to limited internal space.
2-4. Place your foundation material.
Select the material you want to use as your floor from your inventory, then fill in the one-block-deep hole with the material.
2-5. Add walls.
Create a rectangle of blocks that surrounds the foundation, then build on top of that rectangle until it's at least four blocks tall.
2-6. Create an entrance.
Make a two-block-tall, one-block-wide hole in one of the walls. Do this in the location in which you want to create your door later.
2-7. Add another floor if you like.
If you want to add a second story to your structure, fill in the top layer of space between the four walls and then keep building on top of that layer.
You can use this process to add multiple levels.
You'll want to create a hole in any subsequent floors and then use stairs or a ladder to connect the bottom floor to the next one.
2-8. Create a roof.
While not mandatory, roofs will prevent snow and rain from reaching the inside of your house; they will also keep mobs which can climb, such as spiders, out of your home.
Creating a flat roof is as easy as filling in the top of the structure with a one-block-thick layer of blocks. Keep in mind that flat roofs are often frowned upon by Minecraft design enthusiasts, but they'll keep the rain out just the same.
To create a slanting roof, add a line of blocks to the far-left and far-right sides of the house's frame, add another line of blocks next to and directly above each of the lines of blocks, and repeat until you have a sloping roof. You can also use stairs that face each other to accomplish this.
2-9. Dress up the structure.
While your structure is technically complete at this point, you can add items to it to make it both safer and more attractive:
Build stairs and add them to your structure to be able to move up or down without jumping.
Create doors and add them to entrances to prevent mobs from wandering in.
Make torches and add them to both the outside and inside walls of your structure to prevent mobs from spawning.
Use glass to make windows.
Tips
Perhaps the easiest way to make a structure without much difficulty is by finding an existing cave or hole in a mountain, blocking off any tunnels that lead underground, and filling in the entrance to create a door. You can then remove or add materials to the inside of the cavern to complete your house.
Building tools is one of the most important skills in Minecraft.
You can use dirt (or any other easily-broken material) as a scaffold when building or adding onto high-up components of your house.
Warnings
When digging a foundation or other component of your structure, avoid digging straight down. Doing so may result in you accidentally discovering (and falling down) a previously covered mine shaft.
It can be tempting to wall yourself into the side of a hill or dig yourself a hole in which to hide overnight, but make sure you leave yourself one free air hole if you do this; otherwise, you'll suffocate.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Learning Building Basics\\n1-1. Know the popular building materials.\\nOne of the joys of playing Minecraft is that you can build anything out of virtually any material; however, popular building materials include the following:\\n\\nDirt, sand, & gravel — Gathered by mining the proper item with your hand or any tool. Sand and gravel are susceptible to gravity, so they must be stacked on each other or on top of other blocks.\\nCobblestone & sandstone — Gathered by mining the proper stone with any pickaxe.\\nWood — Gathered by mining any tree using your hand or any tool. Can be turned into wood planks to quadruple the amount of wood per yield (e.g., one wood block results in four wood plank blocks).\\nWool — Gathered by killing (or shearing) sheep. While it isn't a particularly sturdy building material, wool is used for adding colors to your house and creating beds.\\n1-2. Understand the properties of different materials.\\nThings like dirt and sand, while easy to find, offer little in the way of protection from enemies. On the other hand, cobblestone and granite are significantly more stable, but require more effort to obtain.\\n1-3. Plan out your structure before building it.\\nBefore you begin searching for resources, it's a good idea to know what you want your structure to look like. This can include anything from having a general idea of your structure's assembly to drawing a sketch of the structure and labeling each of the materials you want to use.\\n1-4. Collect building materials which don't require tools.\\nYou can use your bare hands to collect any of the following resources:\\nDirt\\nSand\\nGravel\\nWood\\n1-5. Make the necessary tools\\nYou'll need at least a wooden pickaxe to collect any of the following resources, though they're well-worth the trouble:\\nCobblestone\\nSandstone\\nGranite\\nSome resources, such as obsidian, require higher-level pickaxes (for example, obsidian requires a diamond pickaxe to mine).\\nWhile tools like shovels and axes aren't required to gather dirt (or wood, or sand) and wood respectively, these tools drastically increase the speed with which you gather the pertinent materials.\\n1-6. Consider adding a bed to your structure.\\nSleeping in a bed at night both resets your spawn point to the bed and allows you to bypass the night cycle, thus preventing the bulk of mobs from disturbing you. Especially if you're building far away from your current spawn point, having a bed will ensure that you'll always be able to find your way back to your build site.\\n2. Building a Basic Structure\\n2-1. Collect your preferred building materials.\\nBefore you set out to create your structure, make sure that you have a few stacks each of your preferred flooring material, your preferred primary building material (e.g., what you'll use to create the walls), and any additional materials you want to use.\\nA \\\"stack\\\" holds 64 items.\\n2-2. Find a building location.\\nDepending on your personal preferences, the ideal building location will vary. A common choice is to build in a forested area near water due to the availability of resources, but you might want to build on top of a mountain or inside of a cave instead.\\nYou can even build in the middle of a lake or other body of water if your resources permit it.\\n2-3. Dig out a foundation.\\nRemove at least one layer of blocks from a five-by-five grid of space. This should leave you with a one-block-deep hole in the ground.\\nYou can go larger than five-by-five if you like, though going smaller isn't recommended due to limited internal space.\\n2-4. Place your foundation material.\\nSelect the material you want to use as your floor from your inventory, then fill in the one-block-deep hole with the material.\\n2-5. Add walls.\\nCreate a rectangle of blocks that surrounds the foundation, then build on top of that rectangle until it's at least four blocks tall.\\n2-6. Create an entrance.\\nMake a two-block-tall, one-block-wide hole in one of the walls. Do this in the location in which you want to create your door later.\\n2-7. Add another floor if you like.\\nIf you want to add a second story to your structure, fill in the top layer of space between the four walls and then keep building on top of that layer.\\nYou can use this process to add multiple levels.\\nYou'll want to create a hole in any subsequent floors and then use stairs or a ladder to connect the bottom floor to the next one.\\n2-8. Create a roof.\\nWhile not mandatory, roofs will prevent snow and rain from reaching the inside of your house; they will also keep mobs which can climb, such as spiders, out of your home.\\nCreating a flat roof is as easy as filling in the top of the structure with a one-block-thick layer of blocks. Keep in mind that flat roofs are often frowned upon by Minecraft design enthusiasts, but they'll keep the rain out just the same.\\nTo create a slanting roof, add a line of blocks to the far-left and far-right sides of the house's frame, add another line of blocks next to and directly above each of the lines of blocks, and repeat until you have a sloping roof. You can also use stairs that face each other to accomplish this.\\n2-9. Dress up the structure.\\nWhile your structure is technically complete at this point, you can add items to it to make it both safer and more attractive:\\n\\nBuild stairs and add them to your structure to be able to move up or down without jumping.\\nCreate doors and add them to entrances to prevent mobs from wandering in.\\nMake torches and add them to both the outside and inside walls of your structure to prevent mobs from spawning.\\nUse glass to make windows.\\nTips\\nPerhaps the easiest way to make a structure without much difficulty is by finding an existing cave or hole in a mountain, blocking off any tunnels that lead underground, and filling in the entrance to create a door. You can then remove or add materials to the inside of the cavern to complete your house.\\nBuilding tools is one of the most important skills in Minecraft.\\nYou can use dirt (or any other easily-broken material) as a scaffold when building or adding onto high-up components of your house.\\nWarnings\\nWhen digging a foundation or other component of your structure, avoid digging straight down. Doing so may result in you accidentally discovering (and falling down) a previously covered mine shaft.\\nIt can be tempting to wall yourself into the side of a hill or dig yourself a hole in which to hide overnight, but make sure you leave yourself one free air hole if you do this; otherwise, you'll suffocate.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to master the basics of building structures in Minecraft. While building a structure in any version of Minecraft is essentially the same process consisting of creating four walls and a roof, finding and collecting the correct resources can be a challenge if you don't know where to start.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learning Building Basics\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Know the popular building materials.\", \"描述\": \"One of the joys of playing Minecraft is that you can build anything out of virtually any material; however, popular building materials include the following:\\n\\nDirt, sand, & gravel — Gathered by mining the proper item with your hand or any tool. Sand and gravel are susceptible to gravity, so they must be stacked on each other or on top of other blocks.\\nCobblestone & sandstone — Gathered by mining the proper stone with any pickaxe.\\nWood — Gathered by mining any tree using your hand or any tool. Can be turned into wood planks to quadruple the amount of wood per yield (e.g., one wood block results in four wood plank blocks).\\nWool — Gathered by killing (or shearing) sheep. While it isn't a particularly sturdy building material, wool is used for adding colors to your house and creating beds.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Understand the properties of different materials.\", \"描述\": \"Things like dirt and sand, while easy to find, offer little in the way of protection from enemies. On the other hand, cobblestone and granite are significantly more stable, but require more effort to obtain.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan out your structure before building it.\", \"描述\": \"Before you begin searching for resources, it's a good idea to know what you want your structure to look like. This can include anything from having a general idea of your structure's assembly to drawing a sketch of the structure and labeling each of the materials you want to use.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Collect building materials which don't require tools.\", \"描述\": \"You can use your bare hands to collect any of the following resources:\\nDirt\\nSand\\nGravel\\nWood\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the necessary tools\", \"描述\": \"You'll need at least a wooden pickaxe to collect any of the following resources, though they're well-worth the trouble:\\nCobblestone\\nSandstone\\nGranite\\nSome resources, such as obsidian, require higher-level pickaxes (for example, obsidian requires a diamond pickaxe to mine).\\nWhile tools like shovels and axes aren't required to gather dirt (or wood, or sand) and wood respectively, these tools drastically increase the speed with which you gather the pertinent materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider adding a bed to your structure.\", \"描述\": \"Sleeping in a bed at night both resets your spawn point to the bed and allows you to bypass the night cycle, thus preventing the bulk of mobs from disturbing you. Especially if you're building far away from your current spawn point, having a bed will ensure that you'll always be able to find your way back to your build site.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Basic Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Collect your preferred building materials.\", \"描述\": \"Before you set out to create your structure, make sure that you have a few stacks each of your preferred flooring material, your preferred primary building material (e.g., what you'll use to create the walls), and any additional materials you want to use.\\nA \\\"stack\\\" holds 64 items.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a building location.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on your personal preferences, the ideal building location will vary. A common choice is to build in a forested area near water due to the availability of resources, but you might want to build on top of a mountain or inside of a cave instead.\\nYou can even build in the middle of a lake or other body of water if your resources permit it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig out a foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Remove at least one layer of blocks from a five-by-five grid of space. This should leave you with a one-block-deep hole in the ground.\\nYou can go larger than five-by-five if you like, though going smaller isn't recommended due to limited internal space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place your foundation material.\", \"描述\": \"Select the material you want to use as your floor from your inventory, then fill in the one-block-deep hole with the material.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add walls.\", \"描述\": \"Create a rectangle of blocks that surrounds the foundation, then build on top of that rectangle until it's at least four blocks tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create an entrance.\", \"描述\": \"Make a two-block-tall, one-block-wide hole in one of the walls. Do this in the location in which you want to create your door later.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add another floor if you like.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to add a second story to your structure, fill in the top layer of space between the four walls and then keep building on top of that layer.\\nYou can use this process to add multiple levels.\\nYou'll want to create a hole in any subsequent floors and then use stairs or a ladder to connect the bottom floor to the next one.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Create a roof.\", \"描述\": \"While not mandatory, roofs will prevent snow and rain from reaching the inside of your house; they will also keep mobs which can climb, such as spiders, out of your home.\\nCreating a flat roof is as easy as filling in the top of the structure with a one-block-thick layer of blocks. Keep in mind that flat roofs are often frowned upon by Minecraft design enthusiasts, but they'll keep the rain out just the same.\\nTo create a slanting roof, add a line of blocks to the far-left and far-right sides of the house's frame, add another line of blocks next to and directly above each of the lines of blocks, and repeat until you have a sloping roof. You can also use stairs that face each other to accomplish this.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Dress up the structure.\", \"描述\": \"While your structure is technically complete at this point, you can add items to it to make it both safer and more attractive:\\n\\nBuild stairs and add them to your structure to be able to move up or down without jumping.\\nCreate doors and add them to entrances to prevent mobs from wandering in.\\nMake torches and add them to both the outside and inside walls of your structure to prevent mobs from spawning.\\nUse glass to make windows.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Perhaps the easiest way to make a structure without much difficulty is by finding an existing cave or hole in a mountain, blocking off any tunnels that lead underground, and filling in the entrance to create a door. You can then remove or add materials to the inside of the cavern to complete your house.\\n\", \"Building tools is one of the most important skills in Minecraft.\\n\", \"You can use dirt (or any other easily-broken material) as a scaffold when building or adding onto high-up components of your house.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When digging a foundation or other component of your structure, avoid digging straight down. Doing so may result in you accidentally discovering (and falling down) a previously covered mine shaft.\\n\", \"It can be tempting to wall yourself into the side of a hill or dig yourself a hole in which to hide overnight, but make sure you leave yourself one free air hole if you do this; otherwise, you'll suffocate.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,684 |
How to Build the Exterior of a Minecraft House
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1. Setting a Foundation
1-1. Choose a palette.
A palette is the collection of blocks that you’ll use for your build. The blocks should complement each other so that your house will look good and also complement the surrounding biome. In a snowy biome, for example, you'll want to build a house out of spruce and dark oak wood to contrast with the mostly white landscape.
Some palette examples are: for a rustic style house, cobblestone (and its variants), oak log, spruce wood, and glass pane; for a modern house, quartz, glass pane, concrete powder, dark oak stairs, and fence blocks; for a castle, cobblestone, stone bricks, wool (for a flag), fences, and spruce wood.
Know which blocks are just bad for builds in general. Wet and dry sponges, netherrack (except for Nether related builds), most glazed terracottas, ore blocks (such as diamond blocks, gold blocks, emerald blocks), slime blocks, and more don’t look good and shouldn’t be used as a main building block.
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1-2. Build an interesting shape for your house.
While simple cubes and rectangular prisms will do for your first house, irregularly shaped structures will be more pleasing to the eye. Instead of simply being hit by a flat wall, you’ll get time to take in the different aspects of the design. You can go randomly, adding bits that stick out from your house in every which way.
The bits that stick out of the shape can be great points for building a balcony.
Try taking inspiration from houses in real life. They aren’t perfect rectangles, are they? You can copy their shape if you have trouble making your own.
1-3. Frame the outside with a block that complements your main building material.
This should be darker than the main block for your walls. Logs of different types are commonly used. Place them in the corners of your build and to break up a large section of wall that is blank. Also, frame the second story of your house if you have one.
1-4. Build up your walls.
Make sure that they are tall enough so that you have space to jump. Two block high spaces feel really cramped which isn’t ideal for a house. Make the walls at least 3 blocks high (although 4 or more is even better) to open up the build. This will also give you more options for hanging lighting for your interior.
You can make the bottom layer(s) of the wall a different block to resemble a foundation. On a house made of oak planks, you can have some cobblestone on the bottom.
If you want a different look on the outside of your house compared to the interior, consider making your walls double layered to allow you to do so.
2. Adding Features
2-1. Choose a style of roof that matches your house.
The block used for your roof should ideally be darker than the walls, but definitely a different shade. Normal roofs that are made only of stairs look fine, but there are ways to take your roofs to the next level. Advanced builders also frame their roofs with another complementary block on the edges of the building and the main block for the bulk of it. Be sure to make an overhang, and you can even add some slabs under the overhang to make it look better.
If you want a simple good-looking design for a cabin, add a layer of cobblestone stairs on the front of the roof and double it up on the bottom. Continue the common stair design on the rest of the roof.
For houses (or areas of the house) that are narrow, try creating a taller roof. Use a staircase block and a regular block for the next level up. Repeat this pattern until your roof is finished. You can use two regular blocks each time if you want an even taller roof.
A flat roof can be created using slabs. You can add a little variety to it, increasing the height on some areas by adding an extra slab or using stairs.
On some builds, a roof that’s a bit jagged and imperfect can fit in with the style. Mix in regular blocks and slabs to give your roof this feel.
2-2. Add windows.
Don't make all your windows the same shape and size. Add some variety; you can even knock out random holes and put glass panes in them if you want. Place them wherever you feel like a wall is too barren. Decorate the windows with stairs, fences, and slabs. Use different colors of stained glass where they would fit (white stained glass pane works well anywhere).
You can make shutters by placing trapdoors on the sides. Banners can serve as curtains, and you can put cool designs on them, too.
Use glass panes to create an extra layer of depth in your walls. Plus, they’re cheaper to use than regular glass blocks if you’re building in survival mode.
Alternatively, you can set some regular glass one block further into the wall.
You can even create windows in the roof. Knock out a small hole and place some slabs or stairs around the top of the window to incorporate it into the roof.
Make your house look slightly ruined if you want by breaking some of the windows, placing signs on top to board them up, and using leaves to create an overgrown feel.
2-3. Include a farm, pond, or garden.
These are ways of landscaping and integrating your house with its surroundings. Place some cobblestone walls around your farm, leaving some gaps to walk through. Try building some animal pens if you want to. Dig a hole for your pond and add sugarcane, lily pads, and ferns nearby. Make a gravel path through a garden filled with flowers, if you want.
With the water mechanics in the Aquatic Update, you can make water troughs for animals by putting water inside stairs and trapdoors.
Don't keep the water in your pond flowing as this looks lazy. Click around with a water bucket until you hit the right spot, and the water is flat.
2-4. Create a simple fence around your house.
Cobblestone walls work well for this purpose and look very attractive. You don’t have to surround your entire house; leave a few gaps for easy entry and exit. If you want to go for grandeur, you can build some walls out of cobblestone and/or log with slabs, stairs, and fences to decorate.
3. Detailing Your Build
3-1. Add planters below the windows.
You can create these with grass blocks and trapdoors on the sides of them. Place flowers on the blocks to give your build a splash of color. These are easy to make, but they will really make a huge difference in your house.
3-2. Decorate the outside of your walls with fences, slabs, staircases, and buttons.
You can replace some of the wall blocks with staircases to make little nooks and crannies that look a little like shelves. Put these blocks in the corners of the wall segments and framing. You can create torch holders as well, by putting torches on top of a fence. Buttons will add texture to your walls. Place the wooden and stone varieties on their respective blocks.
Avoid over-detailing, however. This is when you fill every available space on a wall with those decorative blocks. Over-detailing makes the walls feel cluttered, and just having a moderate amount of detail works better.
3-3. Add a chimney.
If it matches your palette, cobblestone stairs, as well as a cobblestone slab at the top, make for one of the best chimney designs. If you have a fireplace, try to build your chimney above where the fireplace is in your house.
You can also make a chimney out of bricks. This will be more appropriate in a modern or suburban house.
For smoke, you can have cobwebs or different colors of stained glass (white, light gray, and gray) arranged in a diagonal pattern.
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3-4. Make a custom tree.
Normal Minecraft trees are very plain and in no way realistic. Start by placing a couple of logs facing to form the roots, and work your way up the trunk. Add branches going upwards diagonally and place leaves around them. You can use two different types of leaves to give the tree a variety of textures.
The branches should look something like this.
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Don’t place leaves too close to the trunk. This way, your tree looks more lifelike.
Another simpler way to make a tree is to create a pillar of logs for the trunk. Then, add some leaves in a shape somewhat resembling an evergreen.
3-5. Make a path leading up to your house.
You can combine gravel, cobblestone, grass blocks, and paths (made by right-clicking with a shovel on a PC) to create a worn path. If your build style is modern, try using a combination of stairs and slabs to make a more defined lane.
If your worn path is going up a hill, put down some wooden slabs so that you won’t have to jump.
You can make lampposts near the paths. Use cobblestone walls or fences and a light source (redstone lamps, sea lanterns, or glowstone all work and look good).
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You’ll need to power the redstone lamp with a lever for it to work, and place trapdoors around the glowstone to make it look nice.
3-6. Match the landscape with the biome your house is in.
This step allows your house to be integrated with nature instead of looking like it was plopped down by a giant. If the surroundings are snowy, place some snow around your house and on the roof. You can make a frozen pond with ice. For most temperate biomes like the plains and forest, you can make do with using bonemeal to get grass and flowers to grow. Also, try making a stream flowing through your property and put lily pads and ferns on its banks.
Place bushes around using leaves of different types. A few clumps here and there will help your build fit in with its surroundings, and you can place some flowers around the leaves.
Tips
You can light up the yard by hiding glowstone under some patches of green carpet. These look good in combination with bushes and flowers.
Look on servers or to other people's builds for inspiration.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting a Foundation\\n1-1. Choose a palette.\\nA palette is the collection of blocks that you’ll use for your build. The blocks should complement each other so that your house will look good and also complement the surrounding biome. In a snowy biome, for example, you'll want to build a house out of spruce and dark oak wood to contrast with the mostly white landscape. \\nSome palette examples are: for a rustic style house, cobblestone (and its variants), oak log, spruce wood, and glass pane; for a modern house, quartz, glass pane, concrete powder, dark oak stairs, and fence blocks; for a castle, cobblestone, stone bricks, wool (for a flag), fences, and spruce wood.\\nKnow which blocks are just bad for builds in general. Wet and dry sponges, netherrack (except for Nether related builds), most glazed terracottas, ore blocks (such as diamond blocks, gold blocks, emerald blocks), slime blocks, and more don’t look good and shouldn’t be used as a main building block.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c3\\\\/Bad_blocks.png\\\\/460px-Bad_blocks.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c3\\\\/Bad_blocks.png\\\\/728px-Bad_blocks.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Build an interesting shape for your house.\\nWhile simple cubes and rectangular prisms will do for your first house, irregularly shaped structures will be more pleasing to the eye. Instead of simply being hit by a flat wall, you’ll get time to take in the different aspects of the design. You can go randomly, adding bits that stick out from your house in every which way.\\nThe bits that stick out of the shape can be great points for building a balcony.\\nTry taking inspiration from houses in real life. They aren’t perfect rectangles, are they? You can copy their shape if you have trouble making your own.\\n1-3. Frame the outside with a block that complements your main building material.\\nThis should be darker than the main block for your walls. Logs of different types are commonly used. Place them in the corners of your build and to break up a large section of wall that is blank. Also, frame the second story of your house if you have one.\\n1-4. Build up your walls.\\nMake sure that they are tall enough so that you have space to jump. Two block high spaces feel really cramped which isn’t ideal for a house. Make the walls at least 3 blocks high (although 4 or more is even better) to open up the build. This will also give you more options for hanging lighting for your interior.\\nYou can make the bottom layer(s) of the wall a different block to resemble a foundation. On a house made of oak planks, you can have some cobblestone on the bottom.\\nIf you want a different look on the outside of your house compared to the interior, consider making your walls double layered to allow you to do so.\\n2. Adding Features\\n2-1. Choose a style of roof that matches your house.\\nThe block used for your roof should ideally be darker than the walls, but definitely a different shade. Normal roofs that are made only of stairs look fine, but there are ways to take your roofs to the next level. Advanced builders also frame their roofs with another complementary block on the edges of the building and the main block for the bulk of it. Be sure to make an overhang, and you can even add some slabs under the overhang to make it look better.\\nIf you want a simple good-looking design for a cabin, add a layer of cobblestone stairs on the front of the roof and double it up on the bottom. Continue the common stair design on the rest of the roof.\\nFor houses (or areas of the house) that are narrow, try creating a taller roof. Use a staircase block and a regular block for the next level up. Repeat this pattern until your roof is finished. You can use two regular blocks each time if you want an even taller roof.\\nA flat roof can be created using slabs. You can add a little variety to it, increasing the height on some areas by adding an extra slab or using stairs.\\nOn some builds, a roof that’s a bit jagged and imperfect can fit in with the style. Mix in regular blocks and slabs to give your roof this feel.\\n2-2. Add windows.\\nDon't make all your windows the same shape and size. Add some variety; you can even knock out random holes and put glass panes in them if you want. Place them wherever you feel like a wall is too barren. Decorate the windows with stairs, fences, and slabs. Use different colors of stained glass where they would fit (white stained glass pane works well anywhere).\\nYou can make shutters by placing trapdoors on the sides. Banners can serve as curtains, and you can put cool designs on them, too.\\nUse glass panes to create an extra layer of depth in your walls. Plus, they’re cheaper to use than regular glass blocks if you’re building in survival mode.\\nAlternatively, you can set some regular glass one block further into the wall.\\nYou can even create windows in the roof. Knock out a small hole and place some slabs or stairs around the top of the window to incorporate it into the roof.\\nMake your house look slightly ruined if you want by breaking some of the windows, placing signs on top to board them up, and using leaves to create an overgrown feel.\\n2-3. Include a farm, pond, or garden.\\nThese are ways of landscaping and integrating your house with its surroundings. Place some cobblestone walls around your farm, leaving some gaps to walk through. Try building some animal pens if you want to. Dig a hole for your pond and add sugarcane, lily pads, and ferns nearby. Make a gravel path through a garden filled with flowers, if you want.\\nWith the water mechanics in the Aquatic Update, you can make water troughs for animals by putting water inside stairs and trapdoors.\\nDon't keep the water in your pond flowing as this looks lazy. Click around with a water bucket until you hit the right spot, and the water is flat.\\n2-4. Create a simple fence around your house.\\nCobblestone walls work well for this purpose and look very attractive. You don’t have to surround your entire house; leave a few gaps for easy entry and exit. If you want to go for grandeur, you can build some walls out of cobblestone and/or log with slabs, stairs, and fences to decorate.\\n3. Detailing Your Build\\n3-1. Add planters below the windows.\\nYou can create these with grass blocks and trapdoors on the sides of them. Place flowers on the blocks to give your build a splash of color. These are easy to make, but they will really make a huge difference in your house.\\n3-2. Decorate the outside of your walls with fences, slabs, staircases, and buttons.\\nYou can replace some of the wall blocks with staircases to make little nooks and crannies that look a little like shelves. Put these blocks in the corners of the wall segments and framing. You can create torch holders as well, by putting torches on top of a fence. Buttons will add texture to your walls. Place the wooden and stone varieties on their respective blocks.\\nAvoid over-detailing, however. This is when you fill every available space on a wall with those decorative blocks. Over-detailing makes the walls feel cluttered, and just having a moderate amount of detail works better.\\n3-3. Add a chimney.\\nIf it matches your palette, cobblestone stairs, as well as a cobblestone slab at the top, make for one of the best chimney designs. If you have a fireplace, try to build your chimney above where the fireplace is in your house.\\nYou can also make a chimney out of bricks. This will be more appropriate in a modern or suburban house.\\nFor smoke, you can have cobwebs or different colors of stained glass (white, light gray, and gray) arranged in a diagonal pattern.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/45\\\\/Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\\/460px-Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/45\\\\/Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\\/728px-Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3-4. Make a custom tree.\\nNormal Minecraft trees are very plain and in no way realistic. Start by placing a couple of logs facing to form the roots, and work your way up the trunk. Add branches going upwards diagonally and place leaves around them. You can use two different types of leaves to give the tree a variety of textures.\\nThe branches should look something like this.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/54\\\\/Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\\/460px-Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/54\\\\/Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\\/728px-Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":346,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":547,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDon’t place leaves too close to the trunk. This way, your tree looks more lifelike.\\nAnother simpler way to make a tree is to create a pillar of logs for the trunk. Then, add some leaves in a shape somewhat resembling an evergreen.\\n3-5. Make a path leading up to your house.\\nYou can combine gravel, cobblestone, grass blocks, and paths (made by right-clicking with a shovel on a PC) to create a worn path. If your build style is modern, try using a combination of stairs and slabs to make a more defined lane.\\nIf your worn path is going up a hill, put down some wooden slabs so that you won’t have to jump.\\nYou can make lampposts near the paths. Use cobblestone walls or fences and a light source (redstone lamps, sea lanterns, or glowstone all work and look good). \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Two_lampposts.png\\\\/460px-Two_lampposts.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Two_lampposts.png\\\\/728px-Two_lampposts.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":344,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":545,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou’ll need to power the redstone lamp with a lever for it to work, and place trapdoors around the glowstone to make it look nice.\\n3-6. Match the landscape with the biome your house is in.\\nThis step allows your house to be integrated with nature instead of looking like it was plopped down by a giant. If the surroundings are snowy, place some snow around your house and on the roof. You can make a frozen pond with ice. For most temperate biomes like the plains and forest, you can make do with using bonemeal to get grass and flowers to grow. Also, try making a stream flowing through your property and put lily pads and ferns on its banks.\\nPlace bushes around using leaves of different types. A few clumps here and there will help your build fit in with its surroundings, and you can place some flowers around the leaves.\\nTips\\nYou can light up the yard by hiding glowstone under some patches of green carpet. These look good in combination with bushes and flowers.\\nLook on servers or to other people's builds for inspiration.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The exterior is the wow factor of any house. It’s the first impression that any viewers will get, and if they hate it from the start, they may never even go in. There are so many ways to make a house look better on the outside. Here’s how to make everyone envy your building skills.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting a Foundation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a palette.\", \"描述\": \"A palette is the collection of blocks that you’ll use for your build. The blocks should complement each other so that your house will look good and also complement the surrounding biome. In a snowy biome, for example, you'll want to build a house out of spruce and dark oak wood to contrast with the mostly white landscape. \\nSome palette examples are: for a rustic style house, cobblestone (and its variants), oak log, spruce wood, and glass pane; for a modern house, quartz, glass pane, concrete powder, dark oak stairs, and fence blocks; for a castle, cobblestone, stone bricks, wool (for a flag), fences, and spruce wood.\\nKnow which blocks are just bad for builds in general. Wet and dry sponges, netherrack (except for Nether related builds), most glazed terracottas, ore blocks (such as diamond blocks, gold blocks, emerald blocks), slime blocks, and more don’t look good and shouldn’t be used as a main building block.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c3\\\\/Bad_blocks.png\\\\/460px-Bad_blocks.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c3\\\\/Bad_blocks.png\\\\/728px-Bad_blocks.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":306,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":485,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build an interesting shape for your house.\", \"描述\": \"While simple cubes and rectangular prisms will do for your first house, irregularly shaped structures will be more pleasing to the eye. Instead of simply being hit by a flat wall, you’ll get time to take in the different aspects of the design. You can go randomly, adding bits that stick out from your house in every which way.\\nThe bits that stick out of the shape can be great points for building a balcony.\\nTry taking inspiration from houses in real life. They aren’t perfect rectangles, are they? You can copy their shape if you have trouble making your own.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Frame the outside with a block that complements your main building material.\", \"描述\": \"This should be darker than the main block for your walls. Logs of different types are commonly used. Place them in the corners of your build and to break up a large section of wall that is blank. Also, frame the second story of your house if you have one.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build up your walls.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that they are tall enough so that you have space to jump. Two block high spaces feel really cramped which isn’t ideal for a house. Make the walls at least 3 blocks high (although 4 or more is even better) to open up the build. This will also give you more options for hanging lighting for your interior.\\nYou can make the bottom layer(s) of the wall a different block to resemble a foundation. On a house made of oak planks, you can have some cobblestone on the bottom.\\nIf you want a different look on the outside of your house compared to the interior, consider making your walls double layered to allow you to do so.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a style of roof that matches your house.\", \"描述\": \"The block used for your roof should ideally be darker than the walls, but definitely a different shade. Normal roofs that are made only of stairs look fine, but there are ways to take your roofs to the next level. Advanced builders also frame their roofs with another complementary block on the edges of the building and the main block for the bulk of it. Be sure to make an overhang, and you can even add some slabs under the overhang to make it look better.\\nIf you want a simple good-looking design for a cabin, add a layer of cobblestone stairs on the front of the roof and double it up on the bottom. Continue the common stair design on the rest of the roof.\\nFor houses (or areas of the house) that are narrow, try creating a taller roof. Use a staircase block and a regular block for the next level up. Repeat this pattern until your roof is finished. You can use two regular blocks each time if you want an even taller roof.\\nA flat roof can be created using slabs. You can add a little variety to it, increasing the height on some areas by adding an extra slab or using stairs.\\nOn some builds, a roof that’s a bit jagged and imperfect can fit in with the style. Mix in regular blocks and slabs to give your roof this feel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add windows.\", \"描述\": \"Don't make all your windows the same shape and size. Add some variety; you can even knock out random holes and put glass panes in them if you want. Place them wherever you feel like a wall is too barren. Decorate the windows with stairs, fences, and slabs. Use different colors of stained glass where they would fit (white stained glass pane works well anywhere).\\nYou can make shutters by placing trapdoors on the sides. Banners can serve as curtains, and you can put cool designs on them, too.\\nUse glass panes to create an extra layer of depth in your walls. Plus, they’re cheaper to use than regular glass blocks if you’re building in survival mode.\\nAlternatively, you can set some regular glass one block further into the wall.\\nYou can even create windows in the roof. Knock out a small hole and place some slabs or stairs around the top of the window to incorporate it into the roof.\\nMake your house look slightly ruined if you want by breaking some of the windows, placing signs on top to board them up, and using leaves to create an overgrown feel.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include a farm, pond, or garden.\", \"描述\": \"These are ways of landscaping and integrating your house with its surroundings. Place some cobblestone walls around your farm, leaving some gaps to walk through. Try building some animal pens if you want to. Dig a hole for your pond and add sugarcane, lily pads, and ferns nearby. Make a gravel path through a garden filled with flowers, if you want.\\nWith the water mechanics in the Aquatic Update, you can make water troughs for animals by putting water inside stairs and trapdoors.\\nDon't keep the water in your pond flowing as this looks lazy. Click around with a water bucket until you hit the right spot, and the water is flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a simple fence around your house.\", \"描述\": \"Cobblestone walls work well for this purpose and look very attractive. You don’t have to surround your entire house; leave a few gaps for easy entry and exit. If you want to go for grandeur, you can build some walls out of cobblestone and/or log with slabs, stairs, and fences to decorate.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Detailing Your Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add planters below the windows.\", \"描述\": \"You can create these with grass blocks and trapdoors on the sides of them. Place flowers on the blocks to give your build a splash of color. These are easy to make, but they will really make a huge difference in your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decorate the outside of your walls with fences, slabs, staircases, and buttons.\", \"描述\": \"You can replace some of the wall blocks with staircases to make little nooks and crannies that look a little like shelves. Put these blocks in the corners of the wall segments and framing. You can create torch holders as well, by putting torches on top of a fence. Buttons will add texture to your walls. Place the wooden and stone varieties on their respective blocks.\\nAvoid over-detailing, however. This is when you fill every available space on a wall with those decorative blocks. Over-detailing makes the walls feel cluttered, and just having a moderate amount of detail works better.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a chimney.\", \"描述\": \"If it matches your palette, cobblestone stairs, as well as a cobblestone slab at the top, make for one of the best chimney designs. If you have a fireplace, try to build your chimney above where the fireplace is in your house.\\nYou can also make a chimney out of bricks. This will be more appropriate in a modern or suburban house.\\nFor smoke, you can have cobwebs or different colors of stained glass (white, light gray, and gray) arranged in a diagonal pattern.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/45\\\\/Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\\/460px-Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/45\\\\/Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\\/728px-Smoke_glass_pane.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a custom tree.\", \"描述\": \"Normal Minecraft trees are very plain and in no way realistic. Start by placing a couple of logs facing to form the roots, and work your way up the trunk. Add branches going upwards diagonally and place leaves around them. You can use two different types of leaves to give the tree a variety of textures.\\nThe branches should look something like this.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/54\\\\/Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\\/460px-Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/5\\\\/54\\\\/Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\\/728px-Custom_tree_without_leaves.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":346,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":547,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDon’t place leaves too close to the trunk. This way, your tree looks more lifelike.\\nAnother simpler way to make a tree is to create a pillar of logs for the trunk. Then, add some leaves in a shape somewhat resembling an evergreen.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a path leading up to your house.\", \"描述\": \"You can combine gravel, cobblestone, grass blocks, and paths (made by right-clicking with a shovel on a PC) to create a worn path. If your build style is modern, try using a combination of stairs and slabs to make a more defined lane.\\nIf your worn path is going up a hill, put down some wooden slabs so that you won’t have to jump.\\nYou can make lampposts near the paths. Use cobblestone walls or fences and a light source (redstone lamps, sea lanterns, or glowstone all work and look good). \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Two_lampposts.png\\\\/460px-Two_lampposts.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Two_lampposts.png\\\\/728px-Two_lampposts.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":344,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":545,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou’ll need to power the redstone lamp with a lever for it to work, and place trapdoors around the glowstone to make it look nice.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Match the landscape with the biome your house is in.\", \"描述\": \"This step allows your house to be integrated with nature instead of looking like it was plopped down by a giant. If the surroundings are snowy, place some snow around your house and on the roof. You can make a frozen pond with ice. For most temperate biomes like the plains and forest, you can make do with using bonemeal to get grass and flowers to grow. Also, try making a stream flowing through your property and put lily pads and ferns on its banks.\\nPlace bushes around using leaves of different types. A few clumps here and there will help your build fit in with its surroundings, and you can place some flowers around the leaves.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can light up the yard by hiding glowstone under some patches of green carpet. These look good in combination with bushes and flowers.\\n\", \"Look on servers or to other people's builds for inspiration.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,685 |
How to Build the Obliques
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1. Performing Basic Oblique Exercises
1-1. Understand why exercises will help.
Regular exercise increases the number of myofibrils (muscle fibers) in each cell; this accounts for 20 to 30 percent of muscle growth, Exercises that involve pulling, pushing and lifting the muscles stimulate muscle growth and efficiency.
There are several basic exercises that will train the obliques in isolation (meaning they won’t shape other muscles). You must practice these basic exercises before trying harder ones so that you do not injure yourself in the process of toning your muscles.
1-2. Do side planks.
Side planks train the obliques’ natural athletic function which is to resist sudden twisting movements. This exercise provides important foundation for development of the obliques. To do this exercise:
Lie on your right side on a gym mat or soft surface. Lift your body off the mat with only the right forearm and outer side of the right foot in contact with the ground. The right elbow should be directly under the right shoulder. Keep the body erect by drawing the shoulder blades downward and backward and squeezing the butt muscles together. The hips should not drop at any point of the exercise.
Hold this position for 15 seconds. Continue breathing in a relaxed manner. Keep the body in a straight line at all times.
Do 3 sets of 15 second hold with 15 second rest in between.
There are many variations to the standard side plank, if you're not able to perform it at the time. For instance, try doing a bent leg side plank to target your obliques.
If you're feeling good about your side planks, try holding a dumbbell with one hand and leaning towards it to stretch the opposite oblique.
1-3. Practice side crunches.
Side crunches target the obliques and abdominal musculature. The angled approach yields good results when training oblique muscles. To do this exercise:
Lie on your back with knees bent and hands placed at the back of the head. Aim to touch your right knee with your left elbow by lifting your upper back up and sideways from the ground. A common mistake for beginners is crunching the neck instead of the abdominal section. Fix this problem by touching the roof of the mouth with your tongue. This tenses the muscles around the neck and prevents misalignment of the cervical spine.
There should be some burn felt in the left oblique area but there should never be an incidence of pain throughout the exercise.
Return to the starting position. Do a side crunch towards the other side. This time try to touch the left knee with your right elbow. This counts as 1 repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 1 minute rests in between.
Make sure that all of your side crunches are slow and controlled, and that you're focused on rotating through your torso.
1-4. Try side bends.
Side bends are ideal for adding muscle tone to the obliques after doing side crunches. To do this exercise:
Hold a dumbbell at each side. Stand tall with the feet hip-width apart. Draw your shoulder blades back and down. Clench your butt muscles together. Suck in your gut as if you are about to be punched. Make a double chin and look straight. This position should be maintained to ensure effectiveness of the workout.
Lower the dumbbell by bending sideways to the right. Bend as the body permits. Do not bend to the point of pain. The dumbbells should be kept as close to the body as possible.
Return to the starting position. Repeat 15 times. Bend sideways to the left for 10 repetitions. 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 30 seconds of rest in between are ideal.
1-5. Practice killer twists.
First, you must get into the proper starting position. Get a medicine ball and stand with your legs apart; they should be wider than the width of your shoulders. Face your body towards one side and hold the medicine ball over your head.
Lower the weight and turn your body towards the other side. Bend at your knees and crouch down towards the floor. Keep a controlled and balanced movement.
Move back to the starting position slowly. Repeat the exercise 15 times. Do 2 sets on each side alternately.
1-6. Practice dumbbell side dips.
To do this exercise, hold a dumbbell in each hand. Stand up straight with your legs apart so that they are spread to shoulder width. Bend your body while lowering the weight close to the floor as far as tolerable.
Slowly stand up. Do the same procedure on the other side of the body. Repeat the whole exercise.
2. Performing Advanced Oblique Exercises
2-1. Move to more advanced exercises.
Progression to advanced exercises is a must after consistent basic oblique training for 8 weeks. The advanced exercises incorporate movement patterns while training the obliques; therefore, every strand of the obliques’ fibers gets activated with each movement.
2-2. Give wood choppers a try.
Wood choppers mimic the activity that puts all of the oblique fibers to work: wood chopping. The obliques have to not only work hard but also transmit forces from the lower body to the upper body with each movement. To do this exercise:
Hold the handle of the dumbbell with both hands. Stand tall with feet hip-width apart. Draw the shoulder blades down and back. Keep the butt squeezed together.
Raise the dumbbell above the left shoulder. This stretches the oblique muscles to ensure all the muscle fibers are engaged.
Lower the dumbbell across your body and to the outer part of your right ankle by squatting. Push your hips back and butt out as you do this. The arch of the back should not round out. If muscle inflexibility limits the movement, bring the dumbbell to the outside of the right knee.
Reverse the movement. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 60 seconds rest between sets. Repeat the exercise on the other side.
2-3. Try a One-arm Dumbbell Row with Twist.
One-arm dumbbell rows with twist accentuate the v-shaped torso appearance by working the back muscles and obliques simultaneously. The end result is a wide back and a slim waist that magnifies the work you put into developing the obliques.
Hold a dumbbell with your left hand. A single arm row challenges the oblique muscles more than a double arm row. Your muscles activate to maintain good posture with the presence of an uneven weight between the left and right side of the body.
Bend at your hips with the knees slightly bent. Push your hips back as if you are trying to close a door behind you with your butt. Draw your shoulder blades back and downward. Maintain the natural arch of your lower back at all times.
Raise the dumbbell toward your rib cage and twist your upper body to the left simultaneously. The tip of the left elbow should ideally go past your back to squeeze the back muscles maximally. The twist amplifies the left oblique muscle workload.
Return to the starting position. That counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 reps with 60 second breaks. Repeat the exercise with the right hand.
2-4. Practice the bicycle crunch.
The simultaneous kicking and twisting motions of the bicycle crunch challenge the oblique muscles like no other crunch can. To do this exercise:
Lie down on a mat with knees bent and hands behind the head. Press your lower back against the ground. Tighten the abdominal muscles while maintaining a relaxed breathing pattern.
Raise both legs by straightening the right leg and drawing the bent left leg towards the torso. Simultaneously do a side crunch to the left with the aim of touching left knee with the right elbow. Exhale with every elbow to knee motion to prevent excessive rise in blood pressure. Pain should not be a part of the exercise.
Immediately reverse the movement. Straighten the left leg and bend the right leg. Do a crunch to the right with the aim of touching the right knee with left elbow. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 45 second rests in between.
2-5. Try weighted oblique static holds.
To do this exercise, lie down on one side of the body, keeping the back straight. Then, slowly crunch the legs towards the torso. Squeeze the oblique muscles as hard as you can. When you squeeze as hard as you can, hold the position for 45 minutes.
Repeat the procedure on the other side of the body.
Once you can do this easily, add a light dumbbell (five pounds) between your feet.
2-6. Try a side plank with a knee pull.
Start by supporting your body with one arm. The other arm is raised straight up in the air (the obliques are stretched out and isolated). Sway the feet until the top foot is in front of the bottom foot. Bring the bottom foot as far as possible into the chest area. The body is kept straight.
Hold the position where the knee is in the chest for 1 second and then repeat the movement. Perform 15 reps per side or as many as the body permits.
2-7. Practice declined Russian twists.
Look for a bench and set it to 45 degrees decline. Maintaining a good posture, lean back and tighten the core and oblique muscles. Then, extend the arms straight out in front slowly turn back and forth from left to right.
Hold the position for 0.5 seconds when full extension to the right and left is achieved. As the exercise becomes easy, hold a weight plate or medicine ball to add to the difficulty and extend it to chest height.
2-8. Practice speed rotation.
Hold a dumbbell in front of the mid section with both hands. Twist to the right at 90 degrees and then to the left at 180 degrees. Maintain tight abs and move fast.
Do 20 complete twists.
3. Building the Oblique Muscles through Diet
3-1. Up your intake of protein powder.
Protein is a nutrient that helps sustain muscle mass. Protein powder is derived from natural food products such as milk (whey and casein) and eggs. It takes the body an approximate of 2 hours to digest whey proteins, within 4 hours for egg white proteins and roughly 7 hours for casein proteins.
Casein protein powders are suggested to be taken before going to bed because it is digested by the body in a slow pace. And the whey protein powders which are absorbed by the body faster are recommended to be taken in the morning and right after work out or exercise.
The recommended intake of protein is at least 1 gram for each pound of the body weight.
3-2. Try using creatine.
It is naturally produced in the muscles that are responsible for the supply of energy during exercise. Meat and fish are foods that contain creatine (about 5g per kg). However, these foods don’t provide enough amount of creatine so creatine supplementation can be considered. Creatine supplementation is beneficial most especially to body builders. The effects are:
It allows the muscles to absorb extra water that makes it bigger and harder. It can increase the total body weight up to 3%.
It increases energy supplied in the muscles during exercises which permits performance of additional reps with the same body weight.
It helps the body to become stronger thus; the ability to lift heavy weights is increased.
A more solid pump in the muscles will be experienced during workouts.
It increases joints stability that decreases vulnerability to injuries.
3-3. Understand that stopping creatinine intake may cause side effects.
Stopping the use of creatine supplementation can eliminate the benefits of taking it after couple of weeks. It can cause:
Digestive system upsets leading to diarrhea and insufficient absorption of the supplement in the body.
Kidney and liver problems when in long term use of large doses of creatine supplementation.
Discomforts during exercises or physical labor because of the pumping in the muscles.
3-4. Take carbohydrate powders.
Glycogen stored in the muscles and the liver is the principal source of energy during an extreme workout. The first 2 hours after a workout is suggested to be the best time to refuel a used glycogen supply, it involves food products with fast absorbing carbohydrates are easily digested by the body. After an exhausting workout, food products with slow absorbing carbohydrates are preferred to be consumed for the rest of the day. It ensures balance energy supply in the body.
3-5. Avoid sweets, refined carbohydrates, and sugary drinks.
White bread, rice, cakes, chocolates, and sweet drinks prompt the release of insulin by the body. Insulin is a hormone that facilitates storage of glucose and fat in the body; hence, weight gain sets in.
3-6. Eat breakfast.
People who eat breakfast make sensible choices throughout the day because they do not feel the need to reward themselves after starving for hours.
3-7. Add some protein to every meal and snack.
Protein keeps you full and raises the metabolism. Make it a habit to consume protein about the size of your fist during meals. Do not take protein beyond the recommended serving as it is also high in fat and taxes the kidneys.
Consume protein during snacks. Always keep a handful of nuts, a cup of Greek yogurt, or a string of cheese in handy to avoid consuming sugary snacks.
3-8. Eat smaller, frequent meals.
Smaller and frequent meals constantly raise the metabolism and prevent storage of fat as energy reservoir. Eat 3 large meals and 3 snacks spaced out between 3 hours to enhance fat loss.
3-9. Drink water.
Water keeps you full and more importantly maintains blood flow to the body, especially the brain. Hydration keeps mental functioning optimal and saves you from giving in to sweet temptations.
3-10. Take a break from sensible eating once in a while.
The goal is to establish sensible eating habits 80% of the time and not deprive you of your favorite food. You can opt to have either:
6 days of total sensible eating and 1 full cheat day weekly
5 meals of sensible choices and 1 cheat snack daily
Trying to maintain a 100% sensible diet is impossible to maintain and burn you and your taste buds out. The brain sends craving impulses once in a while that you have to give in to.
Tips
Reminder: Consult a physician before starting any type of exercise program for your safety.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Performing Basic Oblique Exercises\\n1-1. Understand why exercises will help.\\nRegular exercise increases the number of myofibrils (muscle fibers) in each cell; this accounts for 20 to 30 percent of muscle growth, Exercises that involve pulling, pushing and lifting the muscles stimulate muscle growth and efficiency.\\nThere are several basic exercises that will train the obliques in isolation (meaning they won’t shape other muscles). You must practice these basic exercises before trying harder ones so that you do not injure yourself in the process of toning your muscles.\\n1-2. Do side planks.\\nSide planks train the obliques’ natural athletic function which is to resist sudden twisting movements. This exercise provides important foundation for development of the obliques. To do this exercise:\\nLie on your right side on a gym mat or soft surface. Lift your body off the mat with only the right forearm and outer side of the right foot in contact with the ground. The right elbow should be directly under the right shoulder. Keep the body erect by drawing the shoulder blades downward and backward and squeezing the butt muscles together. The hips should not drop at any point of the exercise.\\nHold this position for 15 seconds. Continue breathing in a relaxed manner. Keep the body in a straight line at all times.\\nDo 3 sets of 15 second hold with 15 second rest in between.\\nThere are many variations to the standard side plank, if you're not able to perform it at the time. For instance, try doing a bent leg side plank to target your obliques.\\nIf you're feeling good about your side planks, try holding a dumbbell with one hand and leaning towards it to stretch the opposite oblique.\\n1-3. Practice side crunches.\\nSide crunches target the obliques and abdominal musculature. The angled approach yields good results when training oblique muscles. To do this exercise:\\nLie on your back with knees bent and hands placed at the back of the head. Aim to touch your right knee with your left elbow by lifting your upper back up and sideways from the ground. A common mistake for beginners is crunching the neck instead of the abdominal section. Fix this problem by touching the roof of the mouth with your tongue. This tenses the muscles around the neck and prevents misalignment of the cervical spine.\\nThere should be some burn felt in the left oblique area but there should never be an incidence of pain throughout the exercise.\\nReturn to the starting position. Do a side crunch towards the other side. This time try to touch the left knee with your right elbow. This counts as 1 repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 1 minute rests in between.\\nMake sure that all of your side crunches are slow and controlled, and that you're focused on rotating through your torso.\\n1-4. Try side bends.\\nSide bends are ideal for adding muscle tone to the obliques after doing side crunches. To do this exercise:\\nHold a dumbbell at each side. Stand tall with the feet hip-width apart. Draw your shoulder blades back and down. Clench your butt muscles together. Suck in your gut as if you are about to be punched. Make a double chin and look straight. This position should be maintained to ensure effectiveness of the workout.\\nLower the dumbbell by bending sideways to the right. Bend as the body permits. Do not bend to the point of pain. The dumbbells should be kept as close to the body as possible.\\nReturn to the starting position. Repeat 15 times. Bend sideways to the left for 10 repetitions. 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 30 seconds of rest in between are ideal.\\n1-5. Practice killer twists.\\nFirst, you must get into the proper starting position. Get a medicine ball and stand with your legs apart; they should be wider than the width of your shoulders. Face your body towards one side and hold the medicine ball over your head.\\nLower the weight and turn your body towards the other side. Bend at your knees and crouch down towards the floor. Keep a controlled and balanced movement.\\nMove back to the starting position slowly. Repeat the exercise 15 times. Do 2 sets on each side alternately.\\n1-6. Practice dumbbell side dips.\\nTo do this exercise, hold a dumbbell in each hand. Stand up straight with your legs apart so that they are spread to shoulder width. Bend your body while lowering the weight close to the floor as far as tolerable.\\nSlowly stand up. Do the same procedure on the other side of the body. Repeat the whole exercise.\\n2. Performing Advanced Oblique Exercises\\n2-1. Move to more advanced exercises.\\nProgression to advanced exercises is a must after consistent basic oblique training for 8 weeks. The advanced exercises incorporate movement patterns while training the obliques; therefore, every strand of the obliques’ fibers gets activated with each movement.\\n2-2. Give wood choppers a try.\\nWood choppers mimic the activity that puts all of the oblique fibers to work: wood chopping. The obliques have to not only work hard but also transmit forces from the lower body to the upper body with each movement. To do this exercise:\\nHold the handle of the dumbbell with both hands. Stand tall with feet hip-width apart. Draw the shoulder blades down and back. Keep the butt squeezed together.\\nRaise the dumbbell above the left shoulder. This stretches the oblique muscles to ensure all the muscle fibers are engaged.\\nLower the dumbbell across your body and to the outer part of your right ankle by squatting. Push your hips back and butt out as you do this. The arch of the back should not round out. If muscle inflexibility limits the movement, bring the dumbbell to the outside of the right knee.\\nReverse the movement. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 60 seconds rest between sets. Repeat the exercise on the other side.\\n2-3. Try a One-arm Dumbbell Row with Twist.\\nOne-arm dumbbell rows with twist accentuate the v-shaped torso appearance by working the back muscles and obliques simultaneously. The end result is a wide back and a slim waist that magnifies the work you put into developing the obliques.\\nHold a dumbbell with your left hand. A single arm row challenges the oblique muscles more than a double arm row. Your muscles activate to maintain good posture with the presence of an uneven weight between the left and right side of the body.\\nBend at your hips with the knees slightly bent. Push your hips back as if you are trying to close a door behind you with your butt. Draw your shoulder blades back and downward. Maintain the natural arch of your lower back at all times.\\nRaise the dumbbell toward your rib cage and twist your upper body to the left simultaneously. The tip of the left elbow should ideally go past your back to squeeze the back muscles maximally. The twist amplifies the left oblique muscle workload.\\nReturn to the starting position. That counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 reps with 60 second breaks. Repeat the exercise with the right hand.\\n2-4. Practice the bicycle crunch.\\nThe simultaneous kicking and twisting motions of the bicycle crunch challenge the oblique muscles like no other crunch can. To do this exercise:\\nLie down on a mat with knees bent and hands behind the head. Press your lower back against the ground. Tighten the abdominal muscles while maintaining a relaxed breathing pattern.\\nRaise both legs by straightening the right leg and drawing the bent left leg towards the torso. Simultaneously do a side crunch to the left with the aim of touching left knee with the right elbow. Exhale with every elbow to knee motion to prevent excessive rise in blood pressure. Pain should not be a part of the exercise.\\nImmediately reverse the movement. Straighten the left leg and bend the right leg. Do a crunch to the right with the aim of touching the right knee with left elbow. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 45 second rests in between.\\n2-5. Try weighted oblique static holds.\\nTo do this exercise, lie down on one side of the body, keeping the back straight. Then, slowly crunch the legs towards the torso. Squeeze the oblique muscles as hard as you can. When you squeeze as hard as you can, hold the position for 45 minutes.\\nRepeat the procedure on the other side of the body.\\nOnce you can do this easily, add a light dumbbell (five pounds) between your feet.\\n2-6. Try a side plank with a knee pull.\\nStart by supporting your body with one arm. The other arm is raised straight up in the air (the obliques are stretched out and isolated). Sway the feet until the top foot is in front of the bottom foot. Bring the bottom foot as far as possible into the chest area. The body is kept straight.\\nHold the position where the knee is in the chest for 1 second and then repeat the movement. Perform 15 reps per side or as many as the body permits.\\n2-7. Practice declined Russian twists.\\nLook for a bench and set it to 45 degrees decline. Maintaining a good posture, lean back and tighten the core and oblique muscles. Then, extend the arms straight out in front slowly turn back and forth from left to right.\\nHold the position for 0.5 seconds when full extension to the right and left is achieved. As the exercise becomes easy, hold a weight plate or medicine ball to add to the difficulty and extend it to chest height.\\n2-8. Practice speed rotation.\\nHold a dumbbell in front of the mid section with both hands. Twist to the right at 90 degrees and then to the left at 180 degrees. Maintain tight abs and move fast.\\nDo 20 complete twists.\\n3. Building the Oblique Muscles through Diet\\n3-1. Up your intake of protein powder.\\nProtein is a nutrient that helps sustain muscle mass. Protein powder is derived from natural food products such as milk (whey and casein) and eggs. It takes the body an approximate of 2 hours to digest whey proteins, within 4 hours for egg white proteins and roughly 7 hours for casein proteins.\\nCasein protein powders are suggested to be taken before going to bed because it is digested by the body in a slow pace. And the whey protein powders which are absorbed by the body faster are recommended to be taken in the morning and right after work out or exercise.\\nThe recommended intake of protein is at least 1 gram for each pound of the body weight.\\n3-2. Try using creatine.\\nIt is naturally produced in the muscles that are responsible for the supply of energy during exercise. Meat and fish are foods that contain creatine (about 5g per kg). However, these foods don’t provide enough amount of creatine so creatine supplementation can be considered. Creatine supplementation is beneficial most especially to body builders. The effects are:\\nIt allows the muscles to absorb extra water that makes it bigger and harder. It can increase the total body weight up to 3%.\\nIt increases energy supplied in the muscles during exercises which permits performance of additional reps with the same body weight.\\nIt helps the body to become stronger thus; the ability to lift heavy weights is increased.\\nA more solid pump in the muscles will be experienced during workouts.\\nIt increases joints stability that decreases vulnerability to injuries.\\n3-3. Understand that stopping creatinine intake may cause side effects.\\nStopping the use of creatine supplementation can eliminate the benefits of taking it after couple of weeks. It can cause:\\nDigestive system upsets leading to diarrhea and insufficient absorption of the supplement in the body.\\nKidney and liver problems when in long term use of large doses of creatine supplementation.\\nDiscomforts during exercises or physical labor because of the pumping in the muscles.\\n3-4. Take carbohydrate powders.\\nGlycogen stored in the muscles and the liver is the principal source of energy during an extreme workout. The first 2 hours after a workout is suggested to be the best time to refuel a used glycogen supply, it involves food products with fast absorbing carbohydrates are easily digested by the body. After an exhausting workout, food products with slow absorbing carbohydrates are preferred to be consumed for the rest of the day. It ensures balance energy supply in the body.\\n3-5. Avoid sweets, refined carbohydrates, and sugary drinks.\\nWhite bread, rice, cakes, chocolates, and sweet drinks prompt the release of insulin by the body. Insulin is a hormone that facilitates storage of glucose and fat in the body; hence, weight gain sets in.\\n3-6. Eat breakfast.\\nPeople who eat breakfast make sensible choices throughout the day because they do not feel the need to reward themselves after starving for hours.\\n3-7. Add some protein to every meal and snack.\\nProtein keeps you full and raises the metabolism. Make it a habit to consume protein about the size of your fist during meals. Do not take protein beyond the recommended serving as it is also high in fat and taxes the kidneys.\\nConsume protein during snacks. Always keep a handful of nuts, a cup of Greek yogurt, or a string of cheese in handy to avoid consuming sugary snacks.\\n3-8. Eat smaller, frequent meals.\\nSmaller and frequent meals constantly raise the metabolism and prevent storage of fat as energy reservoir. Eat 3 large meals and 3 snacks spaced out between 3 hours to enhance fat loss.\\n3-9. Drink water.\\nWater keeps you full and more importantly maintains blood flow to the body, especially the brain. Hydration keeps mental functioning optimal and saves you from giving in to sweet temptations.\\n3-10. Take a break from sensible eating once in a while.\\nThe goal is to establish sensible eating habits 80% of the time and not deprive you of your favorite food. You can opt to have either:\\n6 days of total sensible eating and 1 full cheat day weekly\\n5 meals of sensible choices and 1 cheat snack daily\\nTrying to maintain a 100% sensible diet is impossible to maintain and burn you and your taste buds out. The brain sends craving impulses once in a while that you have to give in to.\\nTips\\nReminder: Consult a physician before starting any type of exercise program for your safety.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The obliques are the muscles found at the sides of the tummy. A toned oblique gives the classic V-shaped torso. If you are hoping to shape your obliques, begin with basic exercises and work up to more intense exercises. You should also consider your diet when toning your obliques.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Performing Basic Oblique Exercises\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand why exercises will help.\", \"描述\": \"Regular exercise increases the number of myofibrils (muscle fibers) in each cell; this accounts for 20 to 30 percent of muscle growth, Exercises that involve pulling, pushing and lifting the muscles stimulate muscle growth and efficiency.\\nThere are several basic exercises that will train the obliques in isolation (meaning they won’t shape other muscles). You must practice these basic exercises before trying harder ones so that you do not injure yourself in the process of toning your muscles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Do side planks.\", \"描述\": \"Side planks train the obliques’ natural athletic function which is to resist sudden twisting movements. This exercise provides important foundation for development of the obliques. To do this exercise:\\nLie on your right side on a gym mat or soft surface. Lift your body off the mat with only the right forearm and outer side of the right foot in contact with the ground. The right elbow should be directly under the right shoulder. Keep the body erect by drawing the shoulder blades downward and backward and squeezing the butt muscles together. The hips should not drop at any point of the exercise.\\nHold this position for 15 seconds. Continue breathing in a relaxed manner. Keep the body in a straight line at all times.\\nDo 3 sets of 15 second hold with 15 second rest in between.\\nThere are many variations to the standard side plank, if you're not able to perform it at the time. For instance, try doing a bent leg side plank to target your obliques.\\nIf you're feeling good about your side planks, try holding a dumbbell with one hand and leaning towards it to stretch the opposite oblique.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Practice side crunches.\", \"描述\": \"Side crunches target the obliques and abdominal musculature. The angled approach yields good results when training oblique muscles. To do this exercise:\\nLie on your back with knees bent and hands placed at the back of the head. Aim to touch your right knee with your left elbow by lifting your upper back up and sideways from the ground. A common mistake for beginners is crunching the neck instead of the abdominal section. Fix this problem by touching the roof of the mouth with your tongue. This tenses the muscles around the neck and prevents misalignment of the cervical spine.\\nThere should be some burn felt in the left oblique area but there should never be an incidence of pain throughout the exercise.\\nReturn to the starting position. Do a side crunch towards the other side. This time try to touch the left knee with your right elbow. This counts as 1 repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 1 minute rests in between.\\nMake sure that all of your side crunches are slow and controlled, and that you're focused on rotating through your torso.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try side bends.\", \"描述\": \"Side bends are ideal for adding muscle tone to the obliques after doing side crunches. To do this exercise:\\nHold a dumbbell at each side. Stand tall with the feet hip-width apart. Draw your shoulder blades back and down. Clench your butt muscles together. Suck in your gut as if you are about to be punched. Make a double chin and look straight. This position should be maintained to ensure effectiveness of the workout.\\nLower the dumbbell by bending sideways to the right. Bend as the body permits. Do not bend to the point of pain. The dumbbells should be kept as close to the body as possible.\\nReturn to the starting position. Repeat 15 times. Bend sideways to the left for 10 repetitions. 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 30 seconds of rest in between are ideal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Practice killer twists.\", \"描述\": \"First, you must get into the proper starting position. Get a medicine ball and stand with your legs apart; they should be wider than the width of your shoulders. Face your body towards one side and hold the medicine ball over your head.\\nLower the weight and turn your body towards the other side. Bend at your knees and crouch down towards the floor. Keep a controlled and balanced movement.\\nMove back to the starting position slowly. Repeat the exercise 15 times. Do 2 sets on each side alternately.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Practice dumbbell side dips.\", \"描述\": \"To do this exercise, hold a dumbbell in each hand. Stand up straight with your legs apart so that they are spread to shoulder width. Bend your body while lowering the weight close to the floor as far as tolerable.\\nSlowly stand up. Do the same procedure on the other side of the body. Repeat the whole exercise.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Performing Advanced Oblique Exercises\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Move to more advanced exercises.\", \"描述\": \"Progression to advanced exercises is a must after consistent basic oblique training for 8 weeks. The advanced exercises incorporate movement patterns while training the obliques; therefore, every strand of the obliques’ fibers gets activated with each movement.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give wood choppers a try.\", \"描述\": \"Wood choppers mimic the activity that puts all of the oblique fibers to work: wood chopping. The obliques have to not only work hard but also transmit forces from the lower body to the upper body with each movement. To do this exercise:\\nHold the handle of the dumbbell with both hands. Stand tall with feet hip-width apart. Draw the shoulder blades down and back. Keep the butt squeezed together.\\nRaise the dumbbell above the left shoulder. This stretches the oblique muscles to ensure all the muscle fibers are engaged.\\nLower the dumbbell across your body and to the outer part of your right ankle by squatting. Push your hips back and butt out as you do this. The arch of the back should not round out. If muscle inflexibility limits the movement, bring the dumbbell to the outside of the right knee.\\nReverse the movement. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 60 seconds rest between sets. Repeat the exercise on the other side.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try a One-arm Dumbbell Row with Twist.\", \"描述\": \"One-arm dumbbell rows with twist accentuate the v-shaped torso appearance by working the back muscles and obliques simultaneously. The end result is a wide back and a slim waist that magnifies the work you put into developing the obliques.\\nHold a dumbbell with your left hand. A single arm row challenges the oblique muscles more than a double arm row. Your muscles activate to maintain good posture with the presence of an uneven weight between the left and right side of the body.\\nBend at your hips with the knees slightly bent. Push your hips back as if you are trying to close a door behind you with your butt. Draw your shoulder blades back and downward. Maintain the natural arch of your lower back at all times.\\nRaise the dumbbell toward your rib cage and twist your upper body to the left simultaneously. The tip of the left elbow should ideally go past your back to squeeze the back muscles maximally. The twist amplifies the left oblique muscle workload.\\nReturn to the starting position. That counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 reps with 60 second breaks. Repeat the exercise with the right hand.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Practice the bicycle crunch.\", \"描述\": \"The simultaneous kicking and twisting motions of the bicycle crunch challenge the oblique muscles like no other crunch can. To do this exercise:\\nLie down on a mat with knees bent and hands behind the head. Press your lower back against the ground. Tighten the abdominal muscles while maintaining a relaxed breathing pattern.\\nRaise both legs by straightening the right leg and drawing the bent left leg towards the torso. Simultaneously do a side crunch to the left with the aim of touching left knee with the right elbow. Exhale with every elbow to knee motion to prevent excessive rise in blood pressure. Pain should not be a part of the exercise.\\nImmediately reverse the movement. Straighten the left leg and bend the right leg. Do a crunch to the right with the aim of touching the right knee with left elbow. This counts as a repetition. Do 3 sets of 10 repetitions with 45 second rests in between.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try weighted oblique static holds.\", \"描述\": \"To do this exercise, lie down on one side of the body, keeping the back straight. Then, slowly crunch the legs towards the torso. Squeeze the oblique muscles as hard as you can. When you squeeze as hard as you can, hold the position for 45 minutes.\\nRepeat the procedure on the other side of the body.\\nOnce you can do this easily, add a light dumbbell (five pounds) between your feet.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Try a side plank with a knee pull.\", \"描述\": \"Start by supporting your body with one arm. The other arm is raised straight up in the air (the obliques are stretched out and isolated). Sway the feet until the top foot is in front of the bottom foot. Bring the bottom foot as far as possible into the chest area. The body is kept straight.\\nHold the position where the knee is in the chest for 1 second and then repeat the movement. Perform 15 reps per side or as many as the body permits.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Practice declined Russian twists.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a bench and set it to 45 degrees decline. Maintaining a good posture, lean back and tighten the core and oblique muscles. Then, extend the arms straight out in front slowly turn back and forth from left to right.\\nHold the position for 0.5 seconds when full extension to the right and left is achieved. As the exercise becomes easy, hold a weight plate or medicine ball to add to the difficulty and extend it to chest height.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Practice speed rotation.\", \"描述\": \"Hold a dumbbell in front of the mid section with both hands. Twist to the right at 90 degrees and then to the left at 180 degrees. Maintain tight abs and move fast.\\nDo 20 complete twists.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Oblique Muscles through Diet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Up your intake of protein powder.\", \"描述\": \"Protein is a nutrient that helps sustain muscle mass. Protein powder is derived from natural food products such as milk (whey and casein) and eggs. It takes the body an approximate of 2 hours to digest whey proteins, within 4 hours for egg white proteins and roughly 7 hours for casein proteins.\\nCasein protein powders are suggested to be taken before going to bed because it is digested by the body in a slow pace. And the whey protein powders which are absorbed by the body faster are recommended to be taken in the morning and right after work out or exercise.\\nThe recommended intake of protein is at least 1 gram for each pound of the body weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try using creatine.\", \"描述\": \"It is naturally produced in the muscles that are responsible for the supply of energy during exercise. Meat and fish are foods that contain creatine (about 5g per kg). However, these foods don’t provide enough amount of creatine so creatine supplementation can be considered. Creatine supplementation is beneficial most especially to body builders. The effects are:\\nIt allows the muscles to absorb extra water that makes it bigger and harder. It can increase the total body weight up to 3%.\\nIt increases energy supplied in the muscles during exercises which permits performance of additional reps with the same body weight.\\nIt helps the body to become stronger thus; the ability to lift heavy weights is increased.\\nA more solid pump in the muscles will be experienced during workouts.\\nIt increases joints stability that decreases vulnerability to injuries.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Understand that stopping creatinine intake may cause side effects.\", \"描述\": \"Stopping the use of creatine supplementation can eliminate the benefits of taking it after couple of weeks. It can cause:\\nDigestive system upsets leading to diarrhea and insufficient absorption of the supplement in the body.\\nKidney and liver problems when in long term use of large doses of creatine supplementation.\\nDiscomforts during exercises or physical labor because of the pumping in the muscles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take carbohydrate powders.\", \"描述\": \"Glycogen stored in the muscles and the liver is the principal source of energy during an extreme workout. The first 2 hours after a workout is suggested to be the best time to refuel a used glycogen supply, it involves food products with fast absorbing carbohydrates are easily digested by the body. After an exhausting workout, food products with slow absorbing carbohydrates are preferred to be consumed for the rest of the day. It ensures balance energy supply in the body.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid sweets, refined carbohydrates, and sugary drinks.\", \"描述\": \"White bread, rice, cakes, chocolates, and sweet drinks prompt the release of insulin by the body. Insulin is a hormone that facilitates storage of glucose and fat in the body; hence, weight gain sets in.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Eat breakfast.\", \"描述\": \"People who eat breakfast make sensible choices throughout the day because they do not feel the need to reward themselves after starving for hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add some protein to every meal and snack.\", \"描述\": \"Protein keeps you full and raises the metabolism. Make it a habit to consume protein about the size of your fist during meals. Do not take protein beyond the recommended serving as it is also high in fat and taxes the kidneys.\\nConsume protein during snacks. Always keep a handful of nuts, a cup of Greek yogurt, or a string of cheese in handy to avoid consuming sugary snacks.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Eat smaller, frequent meals.\", \"描述\": \"Smaller and frequent meals constantly raise the metabolism and prevent storage of fat as energy reservoir. Eat 3 large meals and 3 snacks spaced out between 3 hours to enhance fat loss.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Drink water.\", \"描述\": \"Water keeps you full and more importantly maintains blood flow to the body, especially the brain. Hydration keeps mental functioning optimal and saves you from giving in to sweet temptations.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Take a break from sensible eating once in a while.\", \"描述\": \"The goal is to establish sensible eating habits 80% of the time and not deprive you of your favorite food. You can opt to have either:\\n6 days of total sensible eating and 1 full cheat day weekly\\n5 meals of sensible choices and 1 cheat snack daily\\nTrying to maintain a 100% sensible diet is impossible to maintain and burn you and your taste buds out. The brain sends craving impulses once in a while that you have to give in to.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Reminder: Consult a physician before starting any type of exercise program for your safety.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,686 |
How to Bull Boots to a "British Army Shine"
|
1. Preparing for Bull Polishing
1-1. Wear your boots.
Getting your brand new boots out of the stores and then spending hours bulling them is just going to ruin them. Wear them in for a few weeks if possible.
If you don't have time to wear them in, put them on and submerge them in hot water for 20 minutes or so. Then walk around; this will help speed up the process. Note they will take time to dry.
1-2. Build up normal polish on the boot by brush polishing the boot for a few days, building up layers.
Again wear them whilst doing this but try not to scruff the toe or chip the boot; this will affect the end out come, so don't take them on the assault course.
1-3. Once a few layers of polish is applied, buy your self a good quality duster.
Selvyt cloths are a good choice. Wash it a few times, and brush it with a nail brush and washing up liquid will make it softer and less likely to scratch your boot. Note that this can be done whilst doing first steps.
1-4. Buy a new tin of Black Kiwi boot polish (or use one that you have not used for brush polishing).
Get some black polish, but for a deeper shine, also buy a tin of dark brown to top the look off with.
2. Bull Polishing
2-1. Get ready to polish.
You'll need a small bowl of water, your black and brown polish, Silver, and the boots.
2-2. Wrap one or two fingers with your cloth.
Make sure it is flat on your fingers; twisting the access can help to tighten on fingers.
2-3. Apply a layer of black polish to your whole boot.
Wipe it until it's covered, using a circular motion of an inch diameter. Rub in until you think the polish is drying.
2-4. Remove any excess polish.
Do this by dipping your cloth on water and repeating the last step.
2-5. Repeat the layering, polishing, and removing process 3 times.
Each time, use less and less new black polish.
2-6. Finish up with a very thin brown layer.
Do as you have done for the black layers; again stop when you think it's drying and removing any left over polish with water. Brown polish seems to be softer than black, so it fills the tiny holes you want to get rid off to make the best shine.
2-7. Stop at this point and maybe wear them in again for a day.
You don't want your hard work to crack and fall off.
2-8. Continue the polishing process after a few hours of wear or the next night after work.
Repeat daily until you get the results you want. This normally takes a week of around an hour a night to see good long lasting results.
Tips
If you need to do an uneven boot or damaged toe-capped boot, melting polish on a snoop and bulling with that is a good method, but again too thick layers will just fall off.
Some say that applying a thick layer of polish and then using a blow torch to melt the polish to the boot for your first layer is effective, but it's obviously extreme. Proceed only with caution.
Warnings
If melting polish, realize it is highly flammable and you need to be in a ventilated room.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing for Bull Polishing\\n1-1. Wear your boots.\\nGetting your brand new boots out of the stores and then spending hours bulling them is just going to ruin them. Wear them in for a few weeks if possible.\\nIf you don't have time to wear them in, put them on and submerge them in hot water for 20 minutes or so. Then walk around; this will help speed up the process. Note they will take time to dry.\\n1-2. Build up normal polish on the boot by brush polishing the boot for a few days, building up layers.\\nAgain wear them whilst doing this but try not to scruff the toe or chip the boot; this will affect the end out come, so don't take them on the assault course.\\n1-3. Once a few layers of polish is applied, buy your self a good quality duster.\\nSelvyt cloths are a good choice. Wash it a few times, and brush it with a nail brush and washing up liquid will make it softer and less likely to scratch your boot. Note that this can be done whilst doing first steps.\\n1-4. Buy a new tin of Black Kiwi boot polish (or use one that you have not used for brush polishing).\\nGet some black polish, but for a deeper shine, also buy a tin of dark brown to top the look off with.\\n2. Bull Polishing\\n2-1. Get ready to polish.\\nYou'll need a small bowl of water, your black and brown polish, Silver, and the boots.\\n2-2. Wrap one or two fingers with your cloth.\\nMake sure it is flat on your fingers; twisting the access can help to tighten on fingers.\\n2-3. Apply a layer of black polish to your whole boot.\\nWipe it until it's covered, using a circular motion of an inch diameter. Rub in until you think the polish is drying.\\n2-4. Remove any excess polish.\\nDo this by dipping your cloth on water and repeating the last step.\\n2-5. Repeat the layering, polishing, and removing process 3 times.\\nEach time, use less and less new black polish.\\n2-6. Finish up with a very thin brown layer.\\nDo as you have done for the black layers; again stop when you think it's drying and removing any left over polish with water. Brown polish seems to be softer than black, so it fills the tiny holes you want to get rid off to make the best shine.\\n2-7. Stop at this point and maybe wear them in again for a day.\\nYou don't want your hard work to crack and fall off.\\n2-8. Continue the polishing process after a few hours of wear or the next night after work.\\nRepeat daily until you get the results you want. This normally takes a week of around an hour a night to see good long lasting results.\\nTips\\nIf you need to do an uneven boot or damaged toe-capped boot, melting polish on a snoop and bulling with that is a good method, but again too thick layers will just fall off.\\nSome say that applying a thick layer of polish and then using a blow torch to melt the polish to the boot for your first layer is effective, but it's obviously extreme. Proceed only with caution.\\nWarnings\\nIf melting polish, realize it is highly flammable and you need to be in a ventilated room.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Polishing boots is an art form. To get the best results, take your time and apply small layers. This is a week long process, not a last minute thing, especially if you want to get a mirror finish that will last and not fall off the first time you come to attention.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing for Bull Polishing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wear your boots.\", \"描述\": \"Getting your brand new boots out of the stores and then spending hours bulling them is just going to ruin them. Wear them in for a few weeks if possible.\\nIf you don't have time to wear them in, put them on and submerge them in hot water for 20 minutes or so. Then walk around; this will help speed up the process. Note they will take time to dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build up normal polish on the boot by brush polishing the boot for a few days, building up layers.\", \"描述\": \"Again wear them whilst doing this but try not to scruff the toe or chip the boot; this will affect the end out come, so don't take them on the assault course.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Once a few layers of polish is applied, buy your self a good quality duster.\", \"描述\": \"Selvyt cloths are a good choice. Wash it a few times, and brush it with a nail brush and washing up liquid will make it softer and less likely to scratch your boot. Note that this can be done whilst doing first steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Buy a new tin of Black Kiwi boot polish (or use one that you have not used for brush polishing).\", \"描述\": \"Get some black polish, but for a deeper shine, also buy a tin of dark brown to top the look off with.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bull Polishing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get ready to polish.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need a small bowl of water, your black and brown polish, Silver, and the boots.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap one or two fingers with your cloth.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it is flat on your fingers; twisting the access can help to tighten on fingers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Apply a layer of black polish to your whole boot.\", \"描述\": \"Wipe it until it's covered, using a circular motion of an inch diameter. Rub in until you think the polish is drying.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove any excess polish.\", \"描述\": \"Do this by dipping your cloth on water and repeating the last step.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Repeat the layering, polishing, and removing process 3 times.\", \"描述\": \"Each time, use less and less new black polish.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Finish up with a very thin brown layer.\", \"描述\": \"Do as you have done for the black layers; again stop when you think it's drying and removing any left over polish with water. Brown polish seems to be softer than black, so it fills the tiny holes you want to get rid off to make the best shine.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stop at this point and maybe wear them in again for a day.\", \"描述\": \"You don't want your hard work to crack and fall off.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Continue the polishing process after a few hours of wear or the next night after work.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat daily until you get the results you want. This normally takes a week of around an hour a night to see good long lasting results.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you need to do an uneven boot or damaged toe-capped boot, melting polish on a snoop and bulling with that is a good method, but again too thick layers will just fall off.\\n\", \"Some say that applying a thick layer of polish and then using a blow torch to melt the polish to the boot for your first layer is effective, but it's obviously extreme. Proceed only with caution.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If melting polish, realize it is highly flammable and you need to be in a ventilated room.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,687 |
A Beginner's Guide to Bullet Journaling
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1. Core Journal Setup
1-1. Pick the right notebook.
Believe it or not, you don’t need a fancy notebook to bullet journal—all you actually need is a notebook that you can easily transport from place to place. Any type of notebook can get the job done, like a notebook with an elastic, or even a Moleskine notebook. A decorative notebook, or one with existing sections, is not necessary for bullet journaling since you'll be doing all the organizing on your own.
You can personalize the notebook a bit if you’d like, though! If you love the color blue, for instance, you could invest in a blue notebook.
You don't have to stick to lined notebooks, either. You could work with dotted notebooks, grid notebooks, and blank notebooks. It's all up to you!
The official Bullet Journal brand sells a great bullet journal made with the LEUCHTTURM1917 notebook.
1-2. Create an index.
Bullet journal pages are designed to be numbered and tracked in an index. This index helps you track which sections fall on which pages. The first blank spread (the first two blank pages that fall side by side) will be your index. To get started, simply write "Index" on the top of both pages.
You can write in pen or pencil using whatever color you’d like. A pen may show up better, however, and darker colors are typically easier to read.
1-3. Make your future log.
Flip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your future log. Your future log is a way of getting a bird's eye view of tasks you need to complete within the next six months. It will include a month-by-month breakdown of events, tasks, and goals. To start, divide each page into 3 even vertical sections. Use a ruler to draw three straight lines down the spread, dividing it into three equal sections on each page.
For example, if each page has 24 lines make three sections on each page of 8 lines each.
1-4. Write the name of the next six months in each section.
Let’s say you're starting your bullet journal for the new year. You would write, "January" in the first box, then "February," and so on. If you were starting your bullet journal in May, you’d write “May” in your first box, followed by “June,” “July,” and so on.
Be sure to write page numbers on the corners of each page. As your future log in your first section, the page numbers should be one and two. Flip back to your index and write something like, "Future Log . . . 1-2."
1-5. Add a monthly log.
Flip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your monthly log, which gives you an overview of the upcoming month. Start with the current month and write the name of this month on the top of both pages. On the left page, write down every date of the month. After you finish, write down the abbreviation of the day of the week next to the number. On the right page, jot down your task list for the month, using bullet points to make a list of all the goals you hope to complete, any bills you have to pay, and any deadlines you need to meet.
For example, on the left page you would write "January 1st, Sun."
On the right page, you would write things like "Pay the cable bill," and "Complete draft of term paper."
1-6. Add a daily log.
Flip to the next blank spread and write today's date on the top of the page. Use small bullet points to write down things you need to do that day, tasks you completed, and anything else interesting that’s going on. Use as many lines as you need to log your daily activities. When the day ends, make a new entry in the line below for the next day.
A bullet journal is meant to be brief, so try to use short, simple sentences. For example, something simple like do not say, "Called vet to ask about cat's vaccinations. Rabies due." would be better than "Today, I called the vet to discuss the cat's vaccinations, including the rabies vaccines that is due."
1-7. Update your index.
When you're done, write page numbers on the corner of each page. Flip back to your index and add your monthly log to your index. For example, you could write "January Monthly Log... 3-4."
2. Journal Customizations
2-1. Choose signifiers that work for you.
Signifiers are the types of bullet points you use in your journal to help categorize your content. There are no set rules about establishing signifiers—it heavily depends on the types of events you choose to journal. Feel free to break down events into categories, such as work, school, bills, personal, creative projects, etc. Each type of event should have a different bullet point signifying its type, but it's best to only use a few categories to keep things from getting confusing.
For example, creative goals could be signified with a star, work could be signified by a simple bullet point, hobbies could be signified by an arrow, bills could be signified by a small dollar sign, and personal topics could be signified by a heart.
As you track your goals on your daily calendar, use your signifiers to keep things organized! For example, an entry may look something like, "$ Paid Cable Bill today."
2-2. Organize your monthly goals into categories.
It can also help to categorize monthly goals in your monthly log. Instead of having a random list of bullet points lumping everything you need to do together, organize further. It helps to separate your tasks by type.
For example, you could write headings like "Weight and Fitness Goals," "Deadlines and Due Dates," "Work Goals," and "Creative Goals."
From there, write down tasks under their corresponding categories. Under "Weight and Fitness Goals," for example, you could write something like, "Visit the gym 12 times this month."
2-3. Store collections in the back of the journal.
Collections are broad to-do lists that you want to accomplish for a year. It includes anything that is not a log—for example, collections can include books you want to read, movies and TV shows you want to watch, recipes you want to try, and so on. It's good to fill out your collections page as ideas strike you, and you can refer to it later on when you need inspiration. Here are a few collection ideas to get you started
Books to read
Habit tracker
Places you want to visit
Food diary
Meal prep log
Inspiring quotes
Daily affirmations
Budget
2-4. Fill out daily events that matter to you.
As you track your daily log, fill out events according to your preference. This depends heavily on why you're keeping the bullet journal. If it's primarily to organize work goals, for example, you can track what occurred at work each day. However, the journal does not have to be super professional—feel free to record personal moments that made you smile. For instance, "Boyfriend brought me coffee during my lunch break."
Remember to make use of your signifiers as you fill out your journal.
2-5. Jazz up your journal with fun decorations.
Want to give your bujo a little more personality? Stickers, washi tape, and markers are just a few ways to add plenty of creativity and life to your journal. Here are a few other ideas to help you get started:
Write out your spreads using cool fonts
Apply fun patterns to your journal with rubber stamps
Adorn your journal pages with doodles
Add a touch of watercolor paint to your pages
3. Using and Updating Your Journal
3-1. Cross off items as you complete them.
Each time you complete a task, flip back to your monthly log. Cross off the task on your broad to-do lists. This can help you track what you have accomplished and what you still need to accomplish for a given month.
3-2. Transfer important uncompleted tasks to the next month.
At the end of each month, review your monthly log and daily log. See which tasks you have completed and which still need to be done. Set up a new monthly and daily log, the same way you did before, transferring the uncompleted tasks to the next log as you go.
Keep in mind that you do not need to transfer all your tasks to the next month. If you see a task that's no longer worth your time or that is too late to complete, cross it out. This will help you stay organized by trimming down unnecessary information.
3-3. Add long-term goals to your future log.
With a bujo, it’s a good idea to continue building on your future log over time. As you glance through your daily and monthly logs for the past month, see what long-term tasks are included. For example, if you're working on a graduate thesis, it will likely pop up in your logs over time. Feel free to add things to your future log as necessary.
For example, break down your thesis into small goals and jot them down in your future log. In February, you would write "Complete draft" and in March write "Revise draft."
3-4. Make notes on projects specific to you.
It helps to eventually make a project log or list in the back of your bullet journal—this can help you track long-term projects. You can make a list that says something like "Yearly Projects." When reviewing each monthly log, flip back to this list. This will remind you of any short-term goals regarding longstanding projects you should add to each month.
For example, if a long-term goal is to be able to run 30 minutes without stopping for one month, you could write, "Increase running time to 15 minutes."
Tips
Writing should ideally be short and to the point. Otherwise, it defeats the purpose of being quick and easy.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Core Journal Setup\\n1-1. Pick the right notebook.\\nBelieve it or not, you don’t need a fancy notebook to bullet journal—all you actually need is a notebook that you can easily transport from place to place. Any type of notebook can get the job done, like a notebook with an elastic, or even a Moleskine notebook. A decorative notebook, or one with existing sections, is not necessary for bullet journaling since you'll be doing all the organizing on your own.\\nYou can personalize the notebook a bit if you’d like, though! If you love the color blue, for instance, you could invest in a blue notebook.\\nYou don't have to stick to lined notebooks, either. You could work with dotted notebooks, grid notebooks, and blank notebooks. It's all up to you!\\nThe official Bullet Journal brand sells a great bullet journal made with the LEUCHTTURM1917 notebook.\\n1-2. Create an index.\\nBullet journal pages are designed to be numbered and tracked in an index. This index helps you track which sections fall on which pages. The first blank spread (the first two blank pages that fall side by side) will be your index. To get started, simply write \\\"Index\\\" on the top of both pages.\\nYou can write in pen or pencil using whatever color you’d like. A pen may show up better, however, and darker colors are typically easier to read.\\n1-3. Make your future log.\\nFlip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your future log. Your future log is a way of getting a bird's eye view of tasks you need to complete within the next six months. It will include a month-by-month breakdown of events, tasks, and goals. To start, divide each page into 3 even vertical sections. Use a ruler to draw three straight lines down the spread, dividing it into three equal sections on each page.\\nFor example, if each page has 24 lines make three sections on each page of 8 lines each.\\n1-4. Write the name of the next six months in each section.\\nLet’s say you're starting your bullet journal for the new year. You would write, \\\"January\\\" in the first box, then \\\"February,\\\" and so on. If you were starting your bullet journal in May, you’d write “May” in your first box, followed by “June,” “July,” and so on.\\nBe sure to write page numbers on the corners of each page. As your future log in your first section, the page numbers should be one and two. Flip back to your index and write something like, \\\"Future Log . . . 1-2.\\\"\\n1-5. Add a monthly log.\\nFlip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your monthly log, which gives you an overview of the upcoming month. Start with the current month and write the name of this month on the top of both pages. On the left page, write down every date of the month. After you finish, write down the abbreviation of the day of the week next to the number. On the right page, jot down your task list for the month, using bullet points to make a list of all the goals you hope to complete, any bills you have to pay, and any deadlines you need to meet. \\nFor example, on the left page you would write \\\"January 1st, Sun.\\\"\\nOn the right page, you would write things like \\\"Pay the cable bill,\\\" and \\\"Complete draft of term paper.\\\"\\n1-6. Add a daily log.\\nFlip to the next blank spread and write today's date on the top of the page. Use small bullet points to write down things you need to do that day, tasks you completed, and anything else interesting that’s going on. Use as many lines as you need to log your daily activities. When the day ends, make a new entry in the line below for the next day.\\nA bullet journal is meant to be brief, so try to use short, simple sentences. For example, something simple like do not say, \\\"Called vet to ask about cat's vaccinations. Rabies due.\\\" would be better than \\\"Today, I called the vet to discuss the cat's vaccinations, including the rabies vaccines that is due.\\\"\\n1-7. Update your index.\\nWhen you're done, write page numbers on the corner of each page. Flip back to your index and add your monthly log to your index. For example, you could write \\\"January Monthly Log... 3-4.\\\"\\n2. Journal Customizations\\n2-1. Choose signifiers that work for you.\\nSignifiers are the types of bullet points you use in your journal to help categorize your content. There are no set rules about establishing signifiers—it heavily depends on the types of events you choose to journal. Feel free to break down events into categories, such as work, school, bills, personal, creative projects, etc. Each type of event should have a different bullet point signifying its type, but it's best to only use a few categories to keep things from getting confusing.\\nFor example, creative goals could be signified with a star, work could be signified by a simple bullet point, hobbies could be signified by an arrow, bills could be signified by a small dollar sign, and personal topics could be signified by a heart.\\nAs you track your goals on your daily calendar, use your signifiers to keep things organized! For example, an entry may look something like, \\\"$ Paid Cable Bill today.\\\"\\n2-2. Organize your monthly goals into categories.\\nIt can also help to categorize monthly goals in your monthly log. Instead of having a random list of bullet points lumping everything you need to do together, organize further. It helps to separate your tasks by type.\\nFor example, you could write headings like \\\"Weight and Fitness Goals,\\\" \\\"Deadlines and Due Dates,\\\" \\\"Work Goals,\\\" and \\\"Creative Goals.\\\"\\nFrom there, write down tasks under their corresponding categories. Under \\\"Weight and Fitness Goals,\\\" for example, you could write something like, \\\"Visit the gym 12 times this month.\\\"\\n2-3. Store collections in the back of the journal.\\nCollections are broad to-do lists that you want to accomplish for a year. It includes anything that is not a log—for example, collections can include books you want to read, movies and TV shows you want to watch, recipes you want to try, and so on. It's good to fill out your collections page as ideas strike you, and you can refer to it later on when you need inspiration. Here are a few collection ideas to get you started\\nBooks to read\\nHabit tracker\\nPlaces you want to visit\\nFood diary\\nMeal prep log\\nInspiring quotes\\nDaily affirmations\\nBudget\\n2-4. Fill out daily events that matter to you.\\nAs you track your daily log, fill out events according to your preference. This depends heavily on why you're keeping the bullet journal. If it's primarily to organize work goals, for example, you can track what occurred at work each day. However, the journal does not have to be super professional—feel free to record personal moments that made you smile. For instance, \\\"Boyfriend brought me coffee during my lunch break.\\\"\\nRemember to make use of your signifiers as you fill out your journal.\\n2-5. Jazz up your journal with fun decorations.\\nWant to give your bujo a little more personality? Stickers, washi tape, and markers are just a few ways to add plenty of creativity and life to your journal. Here are a few other ideas to help you get started:\\nWrite out your spreads using cool fonts\\nApply fun patterns to your journal with rubber stamps\\nAdorn your journal pages with doodles\\nAdd a touch of watercolor paint to your pages\\n3. Using and Updating Your Journal\\n3-1. Cross off items as you complete them.\\nEach time you complete a task, flip back to your monthly log. Cross off the task on your broad to-do lists. This can help you track what you have accomplished and what you still need to accomplish for a given month.\\n3-2. Transfer important uncompleted tasks to the next month.\\nAt the end of each month, review your monthly log and daily log. See which tasks you have completed and which still need to be done. Set up a new monthly and daily log, the same way you did before, transferring the uncompleted tasks to the next log as you go.\\nKeep in mind that you do not need to transfer all your tasks to the next month. If you see a task that's no longer worth your time or that is too late to complete, cross it out. This will help you stay organized by trimming down unnecessary information.\\n3-3. Add long-term goals to your future log.\\nWith a bujo, it’s a good idea to continue building on your future log over time. As you glance through your daily and monthly logs for the past month, see what long-term tasks are included. For example, if you're working on a graduate thesis, it will likely pop up in your logs over time. Feel free to add things to your future log as necessary.\\nFor example, break down your thesis into small goals and jot them down in your future log. In February, you would write \\\"Complete draft\\\" and in March write \\\"Revise draft.\\\"\\n3-4. Make notes on projects specific to you.\\nIt helps to eventually make a project log or list in the back of your bullet journal—this can help you track long-term projects. You can make a list that says something like \\\"Yearly Projects.\\\" When reviewing each monthly log, flip back to this list. This will remind you of any short-term goals regarding longstanding projects you should add to each month.\\nFor example, if a long-term goal is to be able to run 30 minutes without stopping for one month, you could write, \\\"Increase running time to 15 minutes.\\\"\\nTips\\nWriting should ideally be short and to the point. Otherwise, it defeats the purpose of being quick and easy.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"These days, it seems like bullet journaling is all the rage… but what exactly is it? At its core, a personal bullet journal is a quick and flexible system that offers tons of organizational benefits to your everyday life. With daily-, monthly-, and future-focused logs, you can use your journal to concentrate on what’s most important in both the present and future. Your bujo doesn’t have to stop there, though—with just a little prep work, your bullet journal can be anything and everything you want it to be. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know, so you can embark on your very own bujo journey.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Core Journal Setup\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick the right notebook.\", \"描述\": \"Believe it or not, you don’t need a fancy notebook to bullet journal—all you actually need is a notebook that you can easily transport from place to place. Any type of notebook can get the job done, like a notebook with an elastic, or even a Moleskine notebook. A decorative notebook, or one with existing sections, is not necessary for bullet journaling since you'll be doing all the organizing on your own.\\nYou can personalize the notebook a bit if you’d like, though! If you love the color blue, for instance, you could invest in a blue notebook.\\nYou don't have to stick to lined notebooks, either. You could work with dotted notebooks, grid notebooks, and blank notebooks. It's all up to you!\\nThe official Bullet Journal brand sells a great bullet journal made with the LEUCHTTURM1917 notebook.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create an index.\", \"描述\": \"Bullet journal pages are designed to be numbered and tracked in an index. This index helps you track which sections fall on which pages. The first blank spread (the first two blank pages that fall side by side) will be your index. To get started, simply write \\\"Index\\\" on the top of both pages.\\nYou can write in pen or pencil using whatever color you’d like. A pen may show up better, however, and darker colors are typically easier to read.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make your future log.\", \"描述\": \"Flip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your future log. Your future log is a way of getting a bird's eye view of tasks you need to complete within the next six months. It will include a month-by-month breakdown of events, tasks, and goals. To start, divide each page into 3 even vertical sections. Use a ruler to draw three straight lines down the spread, dividing it into three equal sections on each page.\\nFor example, if each page has 24 lines make three sections on each page of 8 lines each.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Write the name of the next six months in each section.\", \"描述\": \"Let’s say you're starting your bullet journal for the new year. You would write, \\\"January\\\" in the first box, then \\\"February,\\\" and so on. If you were starting your bullet journal in May, you’d write “May” in your first box, followed by “June,” “July,” and so on.\\nBe sure to write page numbers on the corners of each page. As your future log in your first section, the page numbers should be one and two. Flip back to your index and write something like, \\\"Future Log . . . 1-2.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a monthly log.\", \"描述\": \"Flip to the next blank spread in your journal—this will be your monthly log, which gives you an overview of the upcoming month. Start with the current month and write the name of this month on the top of both pages. On the left page, write down every date of the month. After you finish, write down the abbreviation of the day of the week next to the number. On the right page, jot down your task list for the month, using bullet points to make a list of all the goals you hope to complete, any bills you have to pay, and any deadlines you need to meet. \\nFor example, on the left page you would write \\\"January 1st, Sun.\\\"\\nOn the right page, you would write things like \\\"Pay the cable bill,\\\" and \\\"Complete draft of term paper.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add a daily log.\", \"描述\": \"Flip to the next blank spread and write today's date on the top of the page. Use small bullet points to write down things you need to do that day, tasks you completed, and anything else interesting that’s going on. Use as many lines as you need to log your daily activities. When the day ends, make a new entry in the line below for the next day.\\nA bullet journal is meant to be brief, so try to use short, simple sentences. For example, something simple like do not say, \\\"Called vet to ask about cat's vaccinations. Rabies due.\\\" would be better than \\\"Today, I called the vet to discuss the cat's vaccinations, including the rabies vaccines that is due.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Update your index.\", \"描述\": \"When you're done, write page numbers on the corner of each page. Flip back to your index and add your monthly log to your index. For example, you could write \\\"January Monthly Log... 3-4.\\\"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Journal Customizations\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose signifiers that work for you.\", \"描述\": \"Signifiers are the types of bullet points you use in your journal to help categorize your content. There are no set rules about establishing signifiers—it heavily depends on the types of events you choose to journal. Feel free to break down events into categories, such as work, school, bills, personal, creative projects, etc. Each type of event should have a different bullet point signifying its type, but it's best to only use a few categories to keep things from getting confusing.\\nFor example, creative goals could be signified with a star, work could be signified by a simple bullet point, hobbies could be signified by an arrow, bills could be signified by a small dollar sign, and personal topics could be signified by a heart.\\nAs you track your goals on your daily calendar, use your signifiers to keep things organized! For example, an entry may look something like, \\\"$ Paid Cable Bill today.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Organize your monthly goals into categories.\", \"描述\": \"It can also help to categorize monthly goals in your monthly log. Instead of having a random list of bullet points lumping everything you need to do together, organize further. It helps to separate your tasks by type.\\nFor example, you could write headings like \\\"Weight and Fitness Goals,\\\" \\\"Deadlines and Due Dates,\\\" \\\"Work Goals,\\\" and \\\"Creative Goals.\\\"\\nFrom there, write down tasks under their corresponding categories. Under \\\"Weight and Fitness Goals,\\\" for example, you could write something like, \\\"Visit the gym 12 times this month.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Store collections in the back of the journal.\", \"描述\": \"Collections are broad to-do lists that you want to accomplish for a year. It includes anything that is not a log—for example, collections can include books you want to read, movies and TV shows you want to watch, recipes you want to try, and so on. It's good to fill out your collections page as ideas strike you, and you can refer to it later on when you need inspiration. Here are a few collection ideas to get you started\\nBooks to read\\nHabit tracker\\nPlaces you want to visit\\nFood diary\\nMeal prep log\\nInspiring quotes\\nDaily affirmations\\nBudget\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill out daily events that matter to you.\", \"描述\": \"As you track your daily log, fill out events according to your preference. This depends heavily on why you're keeping the bullet journal. If it's primarily to organize work goals, for example, you can track what occurred at work each day. However, the journal does not have to be super professional—feel free to record personal moments that made you smile. For instance, \\\"Boyfriend brought me coffee during my lunch break.\\\"\\nRemember to make use of your signifiers as you fill out your journal.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Jazz up your journal with fun decorations.\", \"描述\": \"Want to give your bujo a little more personality? Stickers, washi tape, and markers are just a few ways to add plenty of creativity and life to your journal. Here are a few other ideas to help you get started:\\nWrite out your spreads using cool fonts\\nApply fun patterns to your journal with rubber stamps\\nAdorn your journal pages with doodles\\nAdd a touch of watercolor paint to your pages\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using and Updating Your Journal\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cross off items as you complete them.\", \"描述\": \"Each time you complete a task, flip back to your monthly log. Cross off the task on your broad to-do lists. This can help you track what you have accomplished and what you still need to accomplish for a given month.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transfer important uncompleted tasks to the next month.\", \"描述\": \"At the end of each month, review your monthly log and daily log. See which tasks you have completed and which still need to be done. Set up a new monthly and daily log, the same way you did before, transferring the uncompleted tasks to the next log as you go.\\nKeep in mind that you do not need to transfer all your tasks to the next month. If you see a task that's no longer worth your time or that is too late to complete, cross it out. This will help you stay organized by trimming down unnecessary information.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add long-term goals to your future log.\", \"描述\": \"With a bujo, it’s a good idea to continue building on your future log over time. As you glance through your daily and monthly logs for the past month, see what long-term tasks are included. For example, if you're working on a graduate thesis, it will likely pop up in your logs over time. Feel free to add things to your future log as necessary.\\nFor example, break down your thesis into small goals and jot them down in your future log. In February, you would write \\\"Complete draft\\\" and in March write \\\"Revise draft.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make notes on projects specific to you.\", \"描述\": \"It helps to eventually make a project log or list in the back of your bullet journal—this can help you track long-term projects. You can make a list that says something like \\\"Yearly Projects.\\\" When reviewing each monthly log, flip back to this list. This will remind you of any short-term goals regarding longstanding projects you should add to each month.\\nFor example, if a long-term goal is to be able to run 30 minutes without stopping for one month, you could write, \\\"Increase running time to 15 minutes.\\\"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Writing should ideally be short and to the point. Otherwise, it defeats the purpose of being quick and easy.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,688 |
Bumble vs Tinder: Choosing the Best Dating App
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1. Interface
Tinder and Bumble’s interfaces are pretty similar.
They both have a profile edit menu, a swiping view, and a screen with all your chats and matches.
The are both arranged linearly, allowing you to change your photos, interests, and bio. There’s an option to preview your profile in both apps.
is where things start working differently. On Bumble, you look through profiles by swiping up to see more photos and information. On Tinder, you tap the left and right sides of a profile tile to quickly see more photos; there’s an info button that shows you their full profile.
The screens are arranged the same way on both apps. Matches in a horizontal carousel at the top, chats in a list below that. Bumble has an advantage with a search button, in case you want to look for a match by name.
2. Profile
Profiles are largely the same on both apps.
They feature typical dating app components like photos, interests, bios, and social media integration.
Bumble has a limit of 6, while Tinder is higher at 9.
Bumble has a dedicated pronouns section, while Tinder does not.
Bumble’s profile editor has a list of prompts that integrate directly into your profile. For example, you could add the prompt “I’m a real nerd about…” and enter an answer like “board games.”
Both apps feature a “profile strength” number, which measures how complete your profile is. Bumble goes a step further and guides you through profile completion — when you click the Bumble profile strength button, a menu pops up with what you’re missing.
3. Matching
3-1. Bumble has a few unique features that help you find connections and start conversations.
Bumble lets you if the match expires (a paid feature).
On Bumble, . Women make the first move when they match with a man. (If the user matches with someone of the same gender or someone who is nonbinary, either person can initiate the conversation).
Another is that someone has to send the first message within 24 hours of matching or the match will expire. After that, you can no longer message that person. Additionally, the other person has to respond to the first message within 24 hours, or the match will expire.
3-2. Tinder has a stronger focus on different ways to find dates.
Tinder has an where users can scroll through different interests and activities. Clicking on one will take the user to a swipe screen with people who share that interest. For example, clicking on the Coffee Date tile will show you other potential matches that want to go out for coffee.
Tinder’s page shows you a limited selection of profiles that the app thinks would be a good match for you.
Tinder offers a range of paid features, including the ability to undo swipes and access more detailed profile information, which can be helpful in some situations.
4. Chatting
4-1. Both apps have messaging systems — Bumble and Tinder both have:
Text messaging
Video chatting
GIF sending
4-2. Bumble has a few unique chatting features.
Unlimited question prompts - you can send these at any time while talking with your match
Voice messages - send a short audio clip of you talking to your match
Covid preferences - click this in the more options menu to see your match’s covid preferences
4-3. Tinder also has a few distinct chat options.
One opening question - you can shuffle through the options, but you can only send this at the start of a conversation
Send a song - you can search and send a song to your match
Send contact information - quickly send you phone number, Snapchat, and other social media information to your match
5. Safety
5-1. Bumble’s safety features range from personal safety to emotional wellbeing.
There are informative articles, how-to guides, and resources in the “Safety & Wellbeing” section of the app.
The categories of information include “Mental exhaustion,” “Feelings of rejection,” “Harmful behavior,” and “Bumble to IRL.”
There are resources like the Crisis Text Line and National Domestic Violence Hotline. Each resource has a number to call or text, and a website with more information.
The button allows you to report a safety concern directly to Bumble.
5-2. Tinder also has several safety features in the app.
There are guides on harassment, safety, meeting IRL, consent, and travel.
Tinder has a couple quizzes to help you learn about safe online dating and the community guidelines.
Tinder lists safety resources and their contact information. For example, Planned Parenthood and the National Human Trafficking Hotline.
The button lets you describe an experience you had on Tinder. Then, the Trust & Safety team at Tinder investigates the situation. Reporting someone removes their account from your match list and won’t appear while swiping.
5-3. Tinder also partners with companies to provide additional safety features:
Garbo is a non-profit background check platform. They provide 2 free background checks to every Tinder member.
Crisis Text Line lets you text directly with a trained Crisis Counselor at any time, about any crisis.
Noonlight is a platform for meeting people safely. In the Noonlight app, you can silently summon help to your location, save details of an upcoming meeting, and add friends to your network. Noonlight connects to your Tinder account. Tinder adds a badge to your chat threads indicating that you have Noonlight.
6. Free Features
6-1. Bumble offers a fully functional dating app with the free tier.
are all in there: swiping, matching, and chatting.
is completely separate from the dating component. You make a different profile (on the same Bumble account) and swipe on a pool of matches looking for friends. You can quickly switch between BFF and Dating in the app.
is another entirely separate matching pool. It’s intended for networking and meeting people who share similar career interests.
6-2. Tinder is also a complete swipe-based dating app in the free tier.
are the same as Bumble: swiping, matching, and chatting.
Tinder allows you to upload a . It takes up a picture slot and plays on repeat when people view your profile. It’s a fun way to add a bit of personality!
is an interactive choose-your-own adventure game. No spoilers, but it’s about what you would do if the world were ending. After completing the game, you can find matches based on the choices you made.
7. Paid Features
7-1. Tinder has 1 free tier and 3 paid subscription tiers.
You’ll start on the free tier by default. The paid tiers have 3 levels of increasing features:
gives you unlimited likes and rewinds, the ability to swipe in any location, and hides the advertisements.
lets you see who likes you, gives you more top picks, 5 Super Likes a week, 1 Free Boost a month, and everything in Tinder Plus.
allows you to message before matching with someone, have prioritized likes, see the likes you’ve sent in the last 7 days, and everything in Tinder Gold.
7-2. Bumble just has 1 paid tier above the default free tier.
It adds the following features:
See who likes you in advance
Apply as many advanced swiping filters as you want
Change your location with Travel mode to swipe in different areas
Enable Incognito mode to be shown only to people you swipe right on
All Boost features (SuperSwipe, Spotlight, Backtrack, and more)
8. Which app wins?
It depends!
Both apps offer a complete online dating experience. It comes down to what you’re looking for and what features you like.
Bumble is the clear winner if you want an app with a more extensive profile builder and conversation-starting restrictions. These features might encourage users to include more personal information and message more people. The 24-hour first and second message aspect of Bumble adds a sense of urgency to messaging (which can be great for getting the conversation going). Bumble tends to be less casual than Tinder, being more intentional and respectful.
Tinder is the champion app if you’re looking for a fast-paced swiping experience. The (typically) shorter profiles and quick photo viewing means you can go left or right faster than on Bumble. Tinder tends toward a more casual experience. If you're looking for a casual and streamlined approach to meeting new people, or prefer a more established and widely-used platform, this might be the better choice.
It’s worth mentioning that the vibe and atmosphere of each app varies depending on where you live. If one app doesn’t quite seem like the right fit for your preferences, try the other one!
Tips
You can always use both apps! If you like certain features on Tinder and Bumble, give both a try.
Take a look at our 15 tips for chatting on Bumble for ways to keep the conversation flowing.
Check out the expert guide for flirting on Tinder for some excellent tips.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Interface\\nTinder and Bumble’s interfaces are pretty similar.\\nThey both have a profile edit menu, a swiping view, and a screen with all your chats and matches.\\nThe are both arranged linearly, allowing you to change your photos, interests, and bio. There’s an option to preview your profile in both apps.\\n is where things start working differently. On Bumble, you look through profiles by swiping up to see more photos and information. On Tinder, you tap the left and right sides of a profile tile to quickly see more photos; there’s an info button that shows you their full profile.\\nThe screens are arranged the same way on both apps. Matches in a horizontal carousel at the top, chats in a list below that. Bumble has an advantage with a search button, in case you want to look for a match by name.\\n2. Profile\\nProfiles are largely the same on both apps.\\nThey feature typical dating app components like photos, interests, bios, and social media integration.\\n\\n Bumble has a limit of 6, while Tinder is higher at 9.\\n Bumble has a dedicated pronouns section, while Tinder does not.\\n Bumble’s profile editor has a list of prompts that integrate directly into your profile. For example, you could add the prompt “I’m a real nerd about…” and enter an answer like “board games.”\\n Both apps feature a “profile strength” number, which measures how complete your profile is. Bumble goes a step further and guides you through profile completion — when you click the Bumble profile strength button, a menu pops up with what you’re missing.\\n3. Matching\\n3-1. Bumble has a few unique features that help you find connections and start conversations.\\nBumble lets you if the match expires (a paid feature).\\nOn Bumble, . Women make the first move when they match with a man. (If the user matches with someone of the same gender or someone who is nonbinary, either person can initiate the conversation).\\nAnother is that someone has to send the first message within 24 hours of matching or the match will expire. After that, you can no longer message that person. Additionally, the other person has to respond to the first message within 24 hours, or the match will expire.\\n3-2. Tinder has a stronger focus on different ways to find dates.\\nTinder has an where users can scroll through different interests and activities. Clicking on one will take the user to a swipe screen with people who share that interest. For example, clicking on the Coffee Date tile will show you other potential matches that want to go out for coffee.\\nTinder’s page shows you a limited selection of profiles that the app thinks would be a good match for you.\\nTinder offers a range of paid features, including the ability to undo swipes and access more detailed profile information, which can be helpful in some situations.\\n4. Chatting\\n4-1. Both apps have messaging systems — Bumble and Tinder both have:\\nText messaging\\nVideo chatting\\nGIF sending\\n4-2. Bumble has a few unique chatting features.\\nUnlimited question prompts - you can send these at any time while talking with your match\\nVoice messages - send a short audio clip of you talking to your match\\nCovid preferences - click this in the more options menu to see your match’s covid preferences\\n4-3. Tinder also has a few distinct chat options.\\nOne opening question - you can shuffle through the options, but you can only send this at the start of a conversation\\nSend a song - you can search and send a song to your match\\nSend contact information - quickly send you phone number, Snapchat, and other social media information to your match\\n5. Safety\\n5-1. Bumble’s safety features range from personal safety to emotional wellbeing.\\nThere are informative articles, how-to guides, and resources in the “Safety & Wellbeing” section of the app.\\nThe categories of information include “Mental exhaustion,” “Feelings of rejection,” “Harmful behavior,” and “Bumble to IRL.”\\nThere are resources like the Crisis Text Line and National Domestic Violence Hotline. Each resource has a number to call or text, and a website with more information.\\nThe button allows you to report a safety concern directly to Bumble.\\n5-2. Tinder also has several safety features in the app.\\nThere are guides on harassment, safety, meeting IRL, consent, and travel.\\nTinder has a couple quizzes to help you learn about safe online dating and the community guidelines.\\nTinder lists safety resources and their contact information. For example, Planned Parenthood and the National Human Trafficking Hotline.\\nThe button lets you describe an experience you had on Tinder. Then, the Trust & Safety team at Tinder investigates the situation. Reporting someone removes their account from your match list and won’t appear while swiping.\\n5-3. Tinder also partners with companies to provide additional safety features:\\nGarbo is a non-profit background check platform. They provide 2 free background checks to every Tinder member.\\nCrisis Text Line lets you text directly with a trained Crisis Counselor at any time, about any crisis.\\nNoonlight is a platform for meeting people safely. In the Noonlight app, you can silently summon help to your location, save details of an upcoming meeting, and add friends to your network. Noonlight connects to your Tinder account. Tinder adds a badge to your chat threads indicating that you have Noonlight.\\n6. Free Features\\n6-1. Bumble offers a fully functional dating app with the free tier.\\nare all in there: swiping, matching, and chatting.\\n is completely separate from the dating component. You make a different profile (on the same Bumble account) and swipe on a pool of matches looking for friends. You can quickly switch between BFF and Dating in the app.\\n is another entirely separate matching pool. It’s intended for networking and meeting people who share similar career interests.\\n6-2. Tinder is also a complete swipe-based dating app in the free tier.\\nare the same as Bumble: swiping, matching, and chatting.\\nTinder allows you to upload a . It takes up a picture slot and plays on repeat when people view your profile. It’s a fun way to add a bit of personality!\\n is an interactive choose-your-own adventure game. No spoilers, but it’s about what you would do if the world were ending. After completing the game, you can find matches based on the choices you made.\\n7. Paid Features\\n7-1. Tinder has 1 free tier and 3 paid subscription tiers.\\nYou’ll start on the free tier by default. The paid tiers have 3 levels of increasing features:\\n\\n gives you unlimited likes and rewinds, the ability to swipe in any location, and hides the advertisements.\\n lets you see who likes you, gives you more top picks, 5 Super Likes a week, 1 Free Boost a month, and everything in Tinder Plus.\\n allows you to message before matching with someone, have prioritized likes, see the likes you’ve sent in the last 7 days, and everything in Tinder Gold.\\n7-2. Bumble just has 1 paid tier above the default free tier.\\nIt adds the following features:\\nSee who likes you in advance\\nApply as many advanced swiping filters as you want\\nChange your location with Travel mode to swipe in different areas\\nEnable Incognito mode to be shown only to people you swipe right on\\nAll Boost features (SuperSwipe, Spotlight, Backtrack, and more)\\n8. Which app wins?\\nIt depends!\\nBoth apps offer a complete online dating experience. It comes down to what you’re looking for and what features you like.\\nBumble is the clear winner if you want an app with a more extensive profile builder and conversation-starting restrictions. These features might encourage users to include more personal information and message more people. The 24-hour first and second message aspect of Bumble adds a sense of urgency to messaging (which can be great for getting the conversation going). Bumble tends to be less casual than Tinder, being more intentional and respectful.\\nTinder is the champion app if you’re looking for a fast-paced swiping experience. The (typically) shorter profiles and quick photo viewing means you can go left or right faster than on Bumble. Tinder tends toward a more casual experience. If you're looking for a casual and streamlined approach to meeting new people, or prefer a more established and widely-used platform, this might be the better choice.\\nIt’s worth mentioning that the vibe and atmosphere of each app varies depending on where you live. If one app doesn’t quite seem like the right fit for your preferences, try the other one!\\nTips\\nYou can always use both apps! If you like certain features on Tinder and Bumble, give both a try.\\nTake a look at our 15 tips for chatting on Bumble for ways to keep the conversation flowing.\\nCheck out the expert guide for flirting on Tinder for some excellent tips.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The age-old question, Bumble or Tinder? They’re both swipe-based dating apps with easy-to-make profiles, free and paid features, and a variety of ways to chat with your matches. But, there are a few key differences between the apps. Bumble is well known for matches that expire after 24 hours if a first message isn’t sent. Tinder has multiple ways to find matches — top picks, swipe night, discover, and more. This wikiHow article will go over the difference between the apps, Bumble vs Tinder!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Interface\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tinder and Bumble’s interfaces are pretty similar.\", \"描述\": \"They both have a profile edit menu, a swiping view, and a screen with all your chats and matches.\\nThe are both arranged linearly, allowing you to change your photos, interests, and bio. There’s an option to preview your profile in both apps.\\n is where things start working differently. On Bumble, you look through profiles by swiping up to see more photos and information. On Tinder, you tap the left and right sides of a profile tile to quickly see more photos; there’s an info button that shows you their full profile.\\nThe screens are arranged the same way on both apps. Matches in a horizontal carousel at the top, chats in a list below that. Bumble has an advantage with a search button, in case you want to look for a match by name.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Profile\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Profiles are largely the same on both apps.\", \"描述\": \"They feature typical dating app components like photos, interests, bios, and social media integration.\\n\\n Bumble has a limit of 6, while Tinder is higher at 9.\\n Bumble has a dedicated pronouns section, while Tinder does not.\\n Bumble’s profile editor has a list of prompts that integrate directly into your profile. For example, you could add the prompt “I’m a real nerd about…” and enter an answer like “board games.”\\n Both apps feature a “profile strength” number, which measures how complete your profile is. Bumble goes a step further and guides you through profile completion — when you click the Bumble profile strength button, a menu pops up with what you’re missing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Matching\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bumble has a few unique features that help you find connections and start conversations.\", \"描述\": \"Bumble lets you if the match expires (a paid feature).\\nOn Bumble, . Women make the first move when they match with a man. (If the user matches with someone of the same gender or someone who is nonbinary, either person can initiate the conversation).\\nAnother is that someone has to send the first message within 24 hours of matching or the match will expire. After that, you can no longer message that person. Additionally, the other person has to respond to the first message within 24 hours, or the match will expire.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tinder has a stronger focus on different ways to find dates.\", \"描述\": \"Tinder has an where users can scroll through different interests and activities. Clicking on one will take the user to a swipe screen with people who share that interest. For example, clicking on the Coffee Date tile will show you other potential matches that want to go out for coffee.\\nTinder’s page shows you a limited selection of profiles that the app thinks would be a good match for you.\\nTinder offers a range of paid features, including the ability to undo swipes and access more detailed profile information, which can be helpful in some situations.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Chatting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Both apps have messaging systems — Bumble and Tinder both have:\", \"描述\": \"Text messaging\\nVideo chatting\\nGIF sending\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bumble has a few unique chatting features.\", \"描述\": \"Unlimited question prompts - you can send these at any time while talking with your match\\nVoice messages - send a short audio clip of you talking to your match\\nCovid preferences - click this in the more options menu to see your match’s covid preferences\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tinder also has a few distinct chat options.\", \"描述\": \"One opening question - you can shuffle through the options, but you can only send this at the start of a conversation\\nSend a song - you can search and send a song to your match\\nSend contact information - quickly send you phone number, Snapchat, and other social media information to your match\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Safety\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bumble’s safety features range from personal safety to emotional wellbeing.\", \"描述\": \"There are informative articles, how-to guides, and resources in the “Safety & Wellbeing” section of the app.\\nThe categories of information include “Mental exhaustion,” “Feelings of rejection,” “Harmful behavior,” and “Bumble to IRL.”\\nThere are resources like the Crisis Text Line and National Domestic Violence Hotline. Each resource has a number to call or text, and a website with more information.\\nThe button allows you to report a safety concern directly to Bumble.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tinder also has several safety features in the app.\", \"描述\": \"There are guides on harassment, safety, meeting IRL, consent, and travel.\\nTinder has a couple quizzes to help you learn about safe online dating and the community guidelines.\\nTinder lists safety resources and their contact information. For example, Planned Parenthood and the National Human Trafficking Hotline.\\nThe button lets you describe an experience you had on Tinder. Then, the Trust & Safety team at Tinder investigates the situation. Reporting someone removes their account from your match list and won’t appear while swiping.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tinder also partners with companies to provide additional safety features:\", \"描述\": \"Garbo is a non-profit background check platform. They provide 2 free background checks to every Tinder member.\\nCrisis Text Line lets you text directly with a trained Crisis Counselor at any time, about any crisis.\\nNoonlight is a platform for meeting people safely. In the Noonlight app, you can silently summon help to your location, save details of an upcoming meeting, and add friends to your network. Noonlight connects to your Tinder account. Tinder adds a badge to your chat threads indicating that you have Noonlight.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Free Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bumble offers a fully functional dating app with the free tier.\", \"描述\": \"are all in there: swiping, matching, and chatting.\\n is completely separate from the dating component. You make a different profile (on the same Bumble account) and swipe on a pool of matches looking for friends. You can quickly switch between BFF and Dating in the app.\\n is another entirely separate matching pool. It’s intended for networking and meeting people who share similar career interests.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tinder is also a complete swipe-based dating app in the free tier.\", \"描述\": \"are the same as Bumble: swiping, matching, and chatting.\\nTinder allows you to upload a . It takes up a picture slot and plays on repeat when people view your profile. It’s a fun way to add a bit of personality!\\n is an interactive choose-your-own adventure game. No spoilers, but it’s about what you would do if the world were ending. After completing the game, you can find matches based on the choices you made.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Paid Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Tinder has 1 free tier and 3 paid subscription tiers.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll start on the free tier by default. The paid tiers have 3 levels of increasing features:\\n\\n gives you unlimited likes and rewinds, the ability to swipe in any location, and hides the advertisements.\\n lets you see who likes you, gives you more top picks, 5 Super Likes a week, 1 Free Boost a month, and everything in Tinder Plus.\\n allows you to message before matching with someone, have prioritized likes, see the likes you’ve sent in the last 7 days, and everything in Tinder Gold.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bumble just has 1 paid tier above the default free tier.\", \"描述\": \"It adds the following features:\\nSee who likes you in advance\\nApply as many advanced swiping filters as you want\\nChange your location with Travel mode to swipe in different areas\\nEnable Incognito mode to be shown only to people you swipe right on\\nAll Boost features (SuperSwipe, Spotlight, Backtrack, and more)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Which app wins?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It depends!\", \"描述\": \"Both apps offer a complete online dating experience. It comes down to what you’re looking for and what features you like.\\nBumble is the clear winner if you want an app with a more extensive profile builder and conversation-starting restrictions. These features might encourage users to include more personal information and message more people. The 24-hour first and second message aspect of Bumble adds a sense of urgency to messaging (which can be great for getting the conversation going). Bumble tends to be less casual than Tinder, being more intentional and respectful.\\nTinder is the champion app if you’re looking for a fast-paced swiping experience. The (typically) shorter profiles and quick photo viewing means you can go left or right faster than on Bumble. Tinder tends toward a more casual experience. If you're looking for a casual and streamlined approach to meeting new people, or prefer a more established and widely-used platform, this might be the better choice.\\nIt’s worth mentioning that the vibe and atmosphere of each app varies depending on where you live. If one app doesn’t quite seem like the right fit for your preferences, try the other one!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can always use both apps! If you like certain features on Tinder and Bumble, give both a try.\\n\", \"Take a look at our 15 tips for chatting on Bumble for ways to keep the conversation flowing.\\n\", \"Check out the expert guide for flirting on Tinder for some excellent tips.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,689 |
How to Bump a Lock
|
1. Making a Bump Key
1-1. Start with an ordinary key.
Find a key that fits into the lock you’re attempting to bump. The teeth of the key won’t be the right size or dimension to move the pins, so the key won’t turn, but it’s important that it be able to slide inside. Locks and keys come in all different makes, but many keys will fit into a standard cylindrical home lock.
If you’re fashioning your own bump key, pick a key that you don’t use regularly. Try it out in a few cylinder locks to see if it fits before filing it to the right specifications.
Lock bumping is such a potential problem because it can be performed with almost any key.
1-2. Identify the position of the valleys in the teeth.
Look at the key and observe the spacing of the teeth. At the bottom of each tooth is a flat area known as the “valley” that separates the teeth. In order to be able to disengage the pins of the lock, these valleys will need to be filed down all the way to the main shaft of the key.
When it comes time to modify the key, be careful not to file the valleys too shallow or deep. If the spaces between the teeth are not at the right depth, the key will be useless.
1-3. File the valleys down to their lowest position.
Use a manual file (a wedge or triangular shape will work best) to shave down the valleys between each tooth on the key. The key should have a jagged, zig-zag appearance when you’re finished. Once the valleys are as deep as they can be, the teeth will be long enough to push up the pins in the lock when the key is struck a certain way.
Locksmiths refer to keys that have been ground down to a serrated pattern with sharp, even peaks and valleys as “999 keys.”
Pre-cut bump keys can also be bought from unscrupulous vendors, but be warned: possession of a bump key is generally regarded as a cause for criminal suspicion by law enforcement.
1-4. Make sure the teeth are level.
File each valley down to the same point along the shaft of the key. If the valleys at the front of the key are deeper than those in the back, the key won’t be able to slide into the lock. If the valleys in the back are deeper, you may have difficulty pulling the key out of the lock after bumping it. There should be a very small triangular depression in the shaft of the key at the bottom of each valley.
Locksmiths and services that grind key duplicates are capable of precisely cutting 999 keys, but you might get some strange looks if you ask for this to be done.
2. Bumping a Lock
2-1. Insert the key into the lock.
Fit the key into the lock. Push it in until it stops, then pull back slightly until you hear or feel the last pin click. This puts the pins in the right position to be manipulated by the teeth of the modified key.
Keys of roughly the same size will often fit any lock with the same mechanism (like a cylindrical lock).
Insert the key slowly and carefully to make sure it doesn’t get stuck. The deeper valleys might make it prone to getting caught on the pins.
2-2. Begin turning the key.
Try turning the key in the unlock direction (usually counterclockwise). Keep constant pressure on the key as you work. It won’t move very far initially, but if you’re able to jostle the pins just right with a well-placed strike, the key will effortlessly turn the rest of the way. Grip the key near the teeth to allow yourself room to hit the back end of it.
Don’t turn the key too hard. It will be weaker since you removed metal from the body, and twisting it forcefully while striking it might cause it to break off in the lock.
2-3. Strike the back of the key with a blunt object.
Using a mallet, the handle of a screwdriver or another broad, blunt object, strike the rear edge of the key as you continue trying to turn it in the lock. This is what is known as the “bump.” You’ll need to hit the key quite hard, as the technique requires that that force be transferred through the lock. If you’re successful, the pins inside the lock will jump momentarily, creating enough space for the key to turn the rest of the way.
Hit the key directly on the end, not at an angle.
The bump won’t work if the key is inserted all the way into the lock. Pull back on the key until you hear the first click before attempting the strike.
2-4. Repeat until the key turns in the lock.
If you’re unsuccessful on your first attempt, try wiggling the key and hitting it again. Repeat this process, turning the key in the unlock direction the entire time, until the pins catch. If after multiple attempts the key still won’t budge, remove it from the lock and try inserting it again, pulling back just a little to put it in the right position to dislodge the pins.
If you’ve tried over and over and still can’t get the key to turn, either the grooves you filed in the valleys are not the right length or the deadbolt needs to be turned in the opposite direction.
3. Protecting Your Home From Lock Bumping
3-1. Check for signs that your locks are tamper-proof.
Most modern locks are designed to protect against lock-picking techniques like bumping. Take a look at the face of your deadbolt to see if a small marking is displayed above or to the side of the key slot. If so, it means your lock is resistant to forced entry measures.
The markings themselves will vary, but may take the form of a vertical line, a plus sign or an Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) seal of security.
Ask a hardware specialist for tamper-proof designs when buying new locks.
3-2. Have a locksmith modify your locks.
Take your locks to be worked on by a professional. Locksmiths can install special heavy duty pins and incorporate additional security features to make your home harder to break into. If the doors to your home are guarded by basic cylinder locks and you’re worried about a break-in, it may be worth the expense to upgrade to more forbidding locks.
If you have reason to be especially concerned about lockpicking, consider going with a different type of locking mechanism than the usual cylinder lock.
3-3. Buy commercial grade locks.
In most hardware and home improvement stores you can purchase light commercial grade locks. These locks, which are typically used by businesses to prevent theft, are made of resilient materials and make use of complex locking mechanisms. A commercial grade lock could make a surprisingly effective deterrent against a would-be burglar.
Commercial grade locks will be more expensive on average but provide more trustworthy home defense.
3-4. Show signs of a presence in your home.
One of the best methods of preventing a break-in is to simply be home, or make it look like someone is. If you have a dog, keep it chained or fenced within sight of the outside of your home. Put up “No Trespassing” or security system signs to ward off intruders, or simply make sure you’re seen coming and going frequently. While this approach isn’t foolproof, it has been shown to make most criminals think better of trying to gain entry to your residence.
Leave a TV or lamp on in the front of your home at night or when you have to go out of town to make it appear that someone is home and awake.
The majority of break-ins occur through the front door. Make sure you have locks secure enough to stop a brazen attempt to enter your home.
Tips
Use a bump key when you lock yourself out of your own home, or when you need to gain access to a friend's home during a crisis.
Lock bumping ordinarily leaves no signs of damage or tampering.
Bumping works best on new and high-quality locks because the tumblers and cylinders move more smoothly.
Warnings
Having a bump key in your possession can be considered suspicious, and may result in a police search, confiscation or fine.
Breaking and entering is a crime. You should never use lock-picking techniques to gain unauthorized entry to another person's home or business.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:25",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Bump Key\\n1-1. Start with an ordinary key.\\nFind a key that fits into the lock you’re attempting to bump. The teeth of the key won’t be the right size or dimension to move the pins, so the key won’t turn, but it’s important that it be able to slide inside. Locks and keys come in all different makes, but many keys will fit into a standard cylindrical home lock.\\nIf you’re fashioning your own bump key, pick a key that you don’t use regularly. Try it out in a few cylinder locks to see if it fits before filing it to the right specifications.\\nLock bumping is such a potential problem because it can be performed with almost any key.\\n1-2. Identify the position of the valleys in the teeth.\\nLook at the key and observe the spacing of the teeth. At the bottom of each tooth is a flat area known as the “valley” that separates the teeth. In order to be able to disengage the pins of the lock, these valleys will need to be filed down all the way to the main shaft of the key.\\nWhen it comes time to modify the key, be careful not to file the valleys too shallow or deep. If the spaces between the teeth are not at the right depth, the key will be useless.\\n1-3. File the valleys down to their lowest position.\\nUse a manual file (a wedge or triangular shape will work best) to shave down the valleys between each tooth on the key. The key should have a jagged, zig-zag appearance when you’re finished. Once the valleys are as deep as they can be, the teeth will be long enough to push up the pins in the lock when the key is struck a certain way.\\nLocksmiths refer to keys that have been ground down to a serrated pattern with sharp, even peaks and valleys as “999 keys.”\\nPre-cut bump keys can also be bought from unscrupulous vendors, but be warned: possession of a bump key is generally regarded as a cause for criminal suspicion by law enforcement.\\n1-4. Make sure the teeth are level.\\nFile each valley down to the same point along the shaft of the key. If the valleys at the front of the key are deeper than those in the back, the key won’t be able to slide into the lock. If the valleys in the back are deeper, you may have difficulty pulling the key out of the lock after bumping it. There should be a very small triangular depression in the shaft of the key at the bottom of each valley.\\nLocksmiths and services that grind key duplicates are capable of precisely cutting 999 keys, but you might get some strange looks if you ask for this to be done.\\n2. Bumping a Lock\\n2-1. Insert the key into the lock.\\nFit the key into the lock. Push it in until it stops, then pull back slightly until you hear or feel the last pin click. This puts the pins in the right position to be manipulated by the teeth of the modified key.\\nKeys of roughly the same size will often fit any lock with the same mechanism (like a cylindrical lock).\\nInsert the key slowly and carefully to make sure it doesn’t get stuck. The deeper valleys might make it prone to getting caught on the pins.\\n2-2. Begin turning the key.\\nTry turning the key in the unlock direction (usually counterclockwise). Keep constant pressure on the key as you work. It won’t move very far initially, but if you’re able to jostle the pins just right with a well-placed strike, the key will effortlessly turn the rest of the way. Grip the key near the teeth to allow yourself room to hit the back end of it.\\nDon’t turn the key too hard. It will be weaker since you removed metal from the body, and twisting it forcefully while striking it might cause it to break off in the lock.\\n2-3. Strike the back of the key with a blunt object.\\nUsing a mallet, the handle of a screwdriver or another broad, blunt object, strike the rear edge of the key as you continue trying to turn it in the lock. This is what is known as the “bump.” You’ll need to hit the key quite hard, as the technique requires that that force be transferred through the lock. If you’re successful, the pins inside the lock will jump momentarily, creating enough space for the key to turn the rest of the way.\\nHit the key directly on the end, not at an angle.\\nThe bump won’t work if the key is inserted all the way into the lock. Pull back on the key until you hear the first click before attempting the strike.\\n2-4. Repeat until the key turns in the lock.\\nIf you’re unsuccessful on your first attempt, try wiggling the key and hitting it again. Repeat this process, turning the key in the unlock direction the entire time, until the pins catch. If after multiple attempts the key still won’t budge, remove it from the lock and try inserting it again, pulling back just a little to put it in the right position to dislodge the pins.\\nIf you’ve tried over and over and still can’t get the key to turn, either the grooves you filed in the valleys are not the right length or the deadbolt needs to be turned in the opposite direction.\\n3. Protecting Your Home From Lock Bumping\\n3-1. Check for signs that your locks are tamper-proof.\\nMost modern locks are designed to protect against lock-picking techniques like bumping. Take a look at the face of your deadbolt to see if a small marking is displayed above or to the side of the key slot. If so, it means your lock is resistant to forced entry measures.\\nThe markings themselves will vary, but may take the form of a vertical line, a plus sign or an Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) seal of security.\\nAsk a hardware specialist for tamper-proof designs when buying new locks.\\n3-2. Have a locksmith modify your locks.\\nTake your locks to be worked on by a professional. Locksmiths can install special heavy duty pins and incorporate additional security features to make your home harder to break into. If the doors to your home are guarded by basic cylinder locks and you’re worried about a break-in, it may be worth the expense to upgrade to more forbidding locks.\\nIf you have reason to be especially concerned about lockpicking, consider going with a different type of locking mechanism than the usual cylinder lock.\\n3-3. Buy commercial grade locks.\\nIn most hardware and home improvement stores you can purchase light commercial grade locks. These locks, which are typically used by businesses to prevent theft, are made of resilient materials and make use of complex locking mechanisms. A commercial grade lock could make a surprisingly effective deterrent against a would-be burglar.\\nCommercial grade locks will be more expensive on average but provide more trustworthy home defense.\\n3-4. Show signs of a presence in your home.\\nOne of the best methods of preventing a break-in is to simply be home, or make it look like someone is. If you have a dog, keep it chained or fenced within sight of the outside of your home. Put up “No Trespassing” or security system signs to ward off intruders, or simply make sure you’re seen coming and going frequently. While this approach isn’t foolproof, it has been shown to make most criminals think better of trying to gain entry to your residence.\\nLeave a TV or lamp on in the front of your home at night or when you have to go out of town to make it appear that someone is home and awake.\\nThe majority of break-ins occur through the front door. Make sure you have locks secure enough to stop a brazen attempt to enter your home.\\nTips\\nUse a bump key when you lock yourself out of your own home, or when you need to gain access to a friend's home during a crisis.\\nLock bumping ordinarily leaves no signs of damage or tampering.\\nBumping works best on new and high-quality locks because the tumblers and cylinders move more smoothly.\\nWarnings\\nHaving a bump key in your possession can be considered suspicious, and may result in a police search, confiscation or fine.\\nBreaking and entering is a crime. You should never use lock-picking techniques to gain unauthorized entry to another person's home or business.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"“Bumping” is a lock-picking technique that refers to the repeated striking motion used to dislodge the pins inside a lock. Doing this requires a specially cut key, known as a bump key, that with the right application can be used to force open 90% of cylindrical locks. Despite its ease, lock bumping should only be performed in emergency situations, like when you’ve locked yourself out of your own home, and should never be used for trespassing or other illegal activities. To successfully bump a lock, all you’ll need is a bump key, a blunt object and a little patience.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Bump Key\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start with an ordinary key.\", \"描述\": \"Find a key that fits into the lock you’re attempting to bump. The teeth of the key won’t be the right size or dimension to move the pins, so the key won’t turn, but it’s important that it be able to slide inside. Locks and keys come in all different makes, but many keys will fit into a standard cylindrical home lock.\\nIf you’re fashioning your own bump key, pick a key that you don’t use regularly. Try it out in a few cylinder locks to see if it fits before filing it to the right specifications.\\nLock bumping is such a potential problem because it can be performed with almost any key.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Identify the position of the valleys in the teeth.\", \"描述\": \"Look at the key and observe the spacing of the teeth. At the bottom of each tooth is a flat area known as the “valley” that separates the teeth. In order to be able to disengage the pins of the lock, these valleys will need to be filed down all the way to the main shaft of the key.\\nWhen it comes time to modify the key, be careful not to file the valleys too shallow or deep. If the spaces between the teeth are not at the right depth, the key will be useless.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"File the valleys down to their lowest position.\", \"描述\": \"Use a manual file (a wedge or triangular shape will work best) to shave down the valleys between each tooth on the key. The key should have a jagged, zig-zag appearance when you’re finished. Once the valleys are as deep as they can be, the teeth will be long enough to push up the pins in the lock when the key is struck a certain way.\\nLocksmiths refer to keys that have been ground down to a serrated pattern with sharp, even peaks and valleys as “999 keys.”\\nPre-cut bump keys can also be bought from unscrupulous vendors, but be warned: possession of a bump key is generally regarded as a cause for criminal suspicion by law enforcement.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure the teeth are level.\", \"描述\": \"File each valley down to the same point along the shaft of the key. If the valleys at the front of the key are deeper than those in the back, the key won’t be able to slide into the lock. If the valleys in the back are deeper, you may have difficulty pulling the key out of the lock after bumping it. There should be a very small triangular depression in the shaft of the key at the bottom of each valley.\\nLocksmiths and services that grind key duplicates are capable of precisely cutting 999 keys, but you might get some strange looks if you ask for this to be done.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Bumping a Lock\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Insert the key into the lock.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the key into the lock. Push it in until it stops, then pull back slightly until you hear or feel the last pin click. This puts the pins in the right position to be manipulated by the teeth of the modified key.\\nKeys of roughly the same size will often fit any lock with the same mechanism (like a cylindrical lock).\\nInsert the key slowly and carefully to make sure it doesn’t get stuck. The deeper valleys might make it prone to getting caught on the pins.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Begin turning the key.\", \"描述\": \"Try turning the key in the unlock direction (usually counterclockwise). Keep constant pressure on the key as you work. It won’t move very far initially, but if you’re able to jostle the pins just right with a well-placed strike, the key will effortlessly turn the rest of the way. Grip the key near the teeth to allow yourself room to hit the back end of it.\\nDon’t turn the key too hard. It will be weaker since you removed metal from the body, and twisting it forcefully while striking it might cause it to break off in the lock.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Strike the back of the key with a blunt object.\", \"描述\": \"Using a mallet, the handle of a screwdriver or another broad, blunt object, strike the rear edge of the key as you continue trying to turn it in the lock. This is what is known as the “bump.” You’ll need to hit the key quite hard, as the technique requires that that force be transferred through the lock. If you’re successful, the pins inside the lock will jump momentarily, creating enough space for the key to turn the rest of the way.\\nHit the key directly on the end, not at an angle.\\nThe bump won’t work if the key is inserted all the way into the lock. Pull back on the key until you hear the first click before attempting the strike.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat until the key turns in the lock.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re unsuccessful on your first attempt, try wiggling the key and hitting it again. Repeat this process, turning the key in the unlock direction the entire time, until the pins catch. If after multiple attempts the key still won’t budge, remove it from the lock and try inserting it again, pulling back just a little to put it in the right position to dislodge the pins.\\nIf you’ve tried over and over and still can’t get the key to turn, either the grooves you filed in the valleys are not the right length or the deadbolt needs to be turned in the opposite direction.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Protecting Your Home From Lock Bumping\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check for signs that your locks are tamper-proof.\", \"描述\": \"Most modern locks are designed to protect against lock-picking techniques like bumping. Take a look at the face of your deadbolt to see if a small marking is displayed above or to the side of the key slot. If so, it means your lock is resistant to forced entry measures.\\nThe markings themselves will vary, but may take the form of a vertical line, a plus sign or an Underwriter’s Laboratories (UL) seal of security.\\nAsk a hardware specialist for tamper-proof designs when buying new locks.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Have a locksmith modify your locks.\", \"描述\": \"Take your locks to be worked on by a professional. Locksmiths can install special heavy duty pins and incorporate additional security features to make your home harder to break into. If the doors to your home are guarded by basic cylinder locks and you’re worried about a break-in, it may be worth the expense to upgrade to more forbidding locks.\\nIf you have reason to be especially concerned about lockpicking, consider going with a different type of locking mechanism than the usual cylinder lock.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy commercial grade locks.\", \"描述\": \"In most hardware and home improvement stores you can purchase light commercial grade locks. These locks, which are typically used by businesses to prevent theft, are made of resilient materials and make use of complex locking mechanisms. A commercial grade lock could make a surprisingly effective deterrent against a would-be burglar.\\nCommercial grade locks will be more expensive on average but provide more trustworthy home defense.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Show signs of a presence in your home.\", \"描述\": \"One of the best methods of preventing a break-in is to simply be home, or make it look like someone is. If you have a dog, keep it chained or fenced within sight of the outside of your home. Put up “No Trespassing” or security system signs to ward off intruders, or simply make sure you’re seen coming and going frequently. While this approach isn’t foolproof, it has been shown to make most criminals think better of trying to gain entry to your residence.\\nLeave a TV or lamp on in the front of your home at night or when you have to go out of town to make it appear that someone is home and awake.\\nThe majority of break-ins occur through the front door. Make sure you have locks secure enough to stop a brazen attempt to enter your home.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use a bump key when you lock yourself out of your own home, or when you need to gain access to a friend's home during a crisis.\\n\", \"Lock bumping ordinarily leaves no signs of damage or tampering.\\n\", \"Bumping works best on new and high-quality locks because the tumblers and cylinders move more smoothly.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Having a bump key in your possession can be considered suspicious, and may result in a police search, confiscation or fine.\\n\", \"Breaking and entering is a crime. You should never use lock-picking techniques to gain unauthorized entry to another person's home or business.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,690 |
How to Bump a Volleyball
|
1. Steps
1-1. Get into position.
You should stand with your legs about shoulder-width apart and should lean forward a bit. Your knees should be bent a little bit, ready to spring your legs into action. Your hands should come together in the last moment before the ball comes to you; when you approach the ball, you can keep your hands about half a foot apart, and bring them together when the ball comes toward you. Otherwise, it'll be hard to maneuver yourself to get in the right position to hit the ball.
1-2. Create a platform with your arms.
The platform is the area between both your wrists and elbows which is the "sweet spot" for hitting the ball. To create your platform, the most important thing you need to do is to clasp your hands together correctly while holding your arms straight in front of you, slightly below your waist, with your shoulders arched. Clasp your hands in front of you, with your thumbs together, side-by-side. Don't lace your fingers together, for this will make you lose control of the ball.
You can either make a fist with one hand and wrap the other around it (the ball method), or you can bend one thumb down to its palm, and rest it on the other hand (the cup method), thus cupping it with the other hand.
If you're using the cup method, then your thumbs should be parallel with each other, and your four fingers on each hand will be parallel with each other as well.
Remember to keep your elbows locked and your knees bent.
1-3. Use your legs.
Using your knees, and your arms, push through the ball. If you're a younger player (12 and under), you can benefit from bending your knees and using them to power your legs and get momentum to guide the ball.
1-4. Hit the ball with both arms.
Position yourself so that you hit the ball with both. Otherwise, you won't be able to aim the ball correctly and could be fouled. This can be a bit tricky, when the ball is coming at you at an unexpected angle, but it's always important to position yourself so that your ball hits your arms with equal force so you can aim and hit it correctly.
1-5. Move to the ball so that it will come down squarely in front of you.
You can bump the ball backwards, of course, but you still want to make sure that you make contact with the ball right in front of you (you may need to turn away from the net). You should face the direction the ball is coming with your shoulders and the front of your body for best results.
If you don't need the ball to go back, swing your arms or bring them above your shoulders. If you do need it to go back, carefully swing your arms backward, as much as is needed.
1-6. Pass the ball.
Keep your eye on the ball. Follow the trajectory of the ball as it comes down and even as you hit it. Make contact with the ball at about waist-level. When the ball is right above your forearms, straighten your legs so that your arms move up to meet it. Try to contact the ball on your forearms (above the hand but below the elbow joint.). At the same time, move your arms forward and up slightly, but do not swing your arms. Contrary to what a lot of people think, the majority of the force should come from your legs.
1-7. Aim the ball.
Dip or twist your shoulder to aim the ball. You can't really aim with your forearms, because you need to keep them flat in order to provide a good platform for the ball. Instead move from the shoulders so that both arms stay together and move as one unit. Ideally, you can square up with the ball (point your feet at the target) so you can just hit it straight forward. Remember to aim the ball slightly to the right of the center of the net, since that is where the setter should be standing.
You should drop the shoulder and put the weight on the ball that is moving towards the target. Use your platform to help you aim the ball.
1-8. Keep your eye on the ball after you bump it.
Watch the ball with your eyes, not your whole body, try to keep your chin down, because it gives you more control of the ball. Some coaches will even have you put the collar of your shirt in your mouth to keep your chin down.
Once you release the ball, separate your hands, but still keep them half a foot or so apart, anticipating the ball's next movement and get ready to hit the volleyball.
Tips
Do not be afraid to run or dive for the ball. However, if you do run for the ball, do not run with your hands together. This will cause you to run slower and miss the ball.
Stay calm and focus.
If you get small purple bruises on your arm after playing volleyball for the first time in a while, do not be alarmed. They will be sore for a couple of days but will then go away and toughen up your arms
Warnings
Do not cross your thumbs under any circumstances as it is possible to break a bone bumping that way.
Don't lift or "carry" the ball. The bump should be a quick hit. If the ball stays in contact with your body for too long, you could be called for a fault and lose a point.
If you have tender skin, or bony arms, it is likely that your forearms will hurt when you have hit the ball a few times. Don't worry, if you power through it, you will get used to it, and it will stop hurting.
Do not hit the ball with your hands. Many people say it hurts to play volleyball but it is usually because they are hitting the ball with their hands. In addition, the hands do not make a good, flat platform, and you're bump will likely go errant.
Be sure not to cross your fingers. This could lead to injury if the ball accidentally hits your hands.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get into position.\\nYou should stand with your legs about shoulder-width apart and should lean forward a bit. Your knees should be bent a little bit, ready to spring your legs into action. Your hands should come together in the last moment before the ball comes to you; when you approach the ball, you can keep your hands about half a foot apart, and bring them together when the ball comes toward you. Otherwise, it'll be hard to maneuver yourself to get in the right position to hit the ball.\\n1-2. Create a platform with your arms.\\nThe platform is the area between both your wrists and elbows which is the \\\"sweet spot\\\" for hitting the ball. To create your platform, the most important thing you need to do is to clasp your hands together correctly while holding your arms straight in front of you, slightly below your waist, with your shoulders arched. Clasp your hands in front of you, with your thumbs together, side-by-side. Don't lace your fingers together, for this will make you lose control of the ball.\\nYou can either make a fist with one hand and wrap the other around it (the ball method), or you can bend one thumb down to its palm, and rest it on the other hand (the cup method), thus cupping it with the other hand.\\nIf you're using the cup method, then your thumbs should be parallel with each other, and your four fingers on each hand will be parallel with each other as well.\\nRemember to keep your elbows locked and your knees bent.\\n1-3. Use your legs.\\nUsing your knees, and your arms, push through the ball. If you're a younger player (12 and under), you can benefit from bending your knees and using them to power your legs and get momentum to guide the ball.\\n1-4. Hit the ball with both arms.\\nPosition yourself so that you hit the ball with both. Otherwise, you won't be able to aim the ball correctly and could be fouled. This can be a bit tricky, when the ball is coming at you at an unexpected angle, but it's always important to position yourself so that your ball hits your arms with equal force so you can aim and hit it correctly.\\n1-5. Move to the ball so that it will come down squarely in front of you.\\nYou can bump the ball backwards, of course, but you still want to make sure that you make contact with the ball right in front of you (you may need to turn away from the net). You should face the direction the ball is coming with your shoulders and the front of your body for best results.\\nIf you don't need the ball to go back, swing your arms or bring them above your shoulders. If you do need it to go back, carefully swing your arms backward, as much as is needed.\\n1-6. Pass the ball.\\nKeep your eye on the ball. Follow the trajectory of the ball as it comes down and even as you hit it. Make contact with the ball at about waist-level. When the ball is right above your forearms, straighten your legs so that your arms move up to meet it. Try to contact the ball on your forearms (above the hand but below the elbow joint.). At the same time, move your arms forward and up slightly, but do not swing your arms. Contrary to what a lot of people think, the majority of the force should come from your legs.\\n1-7. Aim the ball.\\nDip or twist your shoulder to aim the ball. You can't really aim with your forearms, because you need to keep them flat in order to provide a good platform for the ball. Instead move from the shoulders so that both arms stay together and move as one unit. Ideally, you can square up with the ball (point your feet at the target) so you can just hit it straight forward. Remember to aim the ball slightly to the right of the center of the net, since that is where the setter should be standing.\\nYou should drop the shoulder and put the weight on the ball that is moving towards the target. Use your platform to help you aim the ball.\\n1-8. Keep your eye on the ball after you bump it.\\nWatch the ball with your eyes, not your whole body, try to keep your chin down, because it gives you more control of the ball. Some coaches will even have you put the collar of your shirt in your mouth to keep your chin down.\\nOnce you release the ball, separate your hands, but still keep them half a foot or so apart, anticipating the ball's next movement and get ready to hit the volleyball.\\nTips\\nDo not be afraid to run or dive for the ball. However, if you do run for the ball, do not run with your hands together. This will cause you to run slower and miss the ball.\\nStay calm and focus.\\nIf you get small purple bruises on your arm after playing volleyball for the first time in a while, do not be alarmed. They will be sore for a couple of days but will then go away and toughen up your arms\\nWarnings\\nDo not cross your thumbs under any circumstances as it is possible to break a bone bumping that way.\\nDon't lift or \\\"carry\\\" the ball. The bump should be a quick hit. If the ball stays in contact with your body for too long, you could be called for a fault and lose a point.\\nIf you have tender skin, or bony arms, it is likely that your forearms will hurt when you have hit the ball a few times. Don't worry, if you power through it, you will get used to it, and it will stop hurting.\\nDo not hit the ball with your hands. Many people say it hurts to play volleyball but it is usually because they are hitting the ball with their hands. In addition, the hands do not make a good, flat platform, and you're bump will likely go errant.\\nBe sure not to cross your fingers. This could lead to injury if the ball accidentally hits your hands.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The bump, professionally known as a pass, is the most basic and essential skill in volleyball. The bump is used to hit a ball that is below the head, or at your platform as most volleyball players would call it, and is typically used as the first touch to receive a serve or to receive a hard-driven hit. In order to be successful in this sport, you must know the basics and bumping, officially known as passing, is the most important skill.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get into position.\", \"描述\": \"You should stand with your legs about shoulder-width apart and should lean forward a bit. Your knees should be bent a little bit, ready to spring your legs into action. Your hands should come together in the last moment before the ball comes to you; when you approach the ball, you can keep your hands about half a foot apart, and bring them together when the ball comes toward you. Otherwise, it'll be hard to maneuver yourself to get in the right position to hit the ball.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a platform with your arms.\", \"描述\": \"The platform is the area between both your wrists and elbows which is the \\\"sweet spot\\\" for hitting the ball. To create your platform, the most important thing you need to do is to clasp your hands together correctly while holding your arms straight in front of you, slightly below your waist, with your shoulders arched. Clasp your hands in front of you, with your thumbs together, side-by-side. Don't lace your fingers together, for this will make you lose control of the ball.\\nYou can either make a fist with one hand and wrap the other around it (the ball method), or you can bend one thumb down to its palm, and rest it on the other hand (the cup method), thus cupping it with the other hand.\\nIf you're using the cup method, then your thumbs should be parallel with each other, and your four fingers on each hand will be parallel with each other as well.\\nRemember to keep your elbows locked and your knees bent.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use your legs.\", \"描述\": \"Using your knees, and your arms, push through the ball. If you're a younger player (12 and under), you can benefit from bending your knees and using them to power your legs and get momentum to guide the ball.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hit the ball with both arms.\", \"描述\": \"Position yourself so that you hit the ball with both. Otherwise, you won't be able to aim the ball correctly and could be fouled. This can be a bit tricky, when the ball is coming at you at an unexpected angle, but it's always important to position yourself so that your ball hits your arms with equal force so you can aim and hit it correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move to the ball so that it will come down squarely in front of you.\", \"描述\": \"You can bump the ball backwards, of course, but you still want to make sure that you make contact with the ball right in front of you (you may need to turn away from the net). You should face the direction the ball is coming with your shoulders and the front of your body for best results.\\nIf you don't need the ball to go back, swing your arms or bring them above your shoulders. If you do need it to go back, carefully swing your arms backward, as much as is needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pass the ball.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your eye on the ball. Follow the trajectory of the ball as it comes down and even as you hit it. Make contact with the ball at about waist-level. When the ball is right above your forearms, straighten your legs so that your arms move up to meet it. Try to contact the ball on your forearms (above the hand but below the elbow joint.). At the same time, move your arms forward and up slightly, but do not swing your arms. Contrary to what a lot of people think, the majority of the force should come from your legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Aim the ball.\", \"描述\": \"Dip or twist your shoulder to aim the ball. You can't really aim with your forearms, because you need to keep them flat in order to provide a good platform for the ball. Instead move from the shoulders so that both arms stay together and move as one unit. Ideally, you can square up with the ball (point your feet at the target) so you can just hit it straight forward. Remember to aim the ball slightly to the right of the center of the net, since that is where the setter should be standing.\\nYou should drop the shoulder and put the weight on the ball that is moving towards the target. Use your platform to help you aim the ball.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Keep your eye on the ball after you bump it.\", \"描述\": \"Watch the ball with your eyes, not your whole body, try to keep your chin down, because it gives you more control of the ball. Some coaches will even have you put the collar of your shirt in your mouth to keep your chin down.\\nOnce you release the ball, separate your hands, but still keep them half a foot or so apart, anticipating the ball's next movement and get ready to hit the volleyball.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Do not be afraid to run or dive for the ball. However, if you do run for the ball, do not run with your hands together. This will cause you to run slower and miss the ball.\\n\", \"Stay calm and focus.\\n\", \"If you get small purple bruises on your arm after playing volleyball for the first time in a while, do not be alarmed. They will be sore for a couple of days but will then go away and toughen up your arms\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not cross your thumbs under any circumstances as it is possible to break a bone bumping that way.\\n\", \"Don't lift or \\\"carry\\\" the ball. The bump should be a quick hit. If the ball stays in contact with your body for too long, you could be called for a fault and lose a point.\\n\", \"If you have tender skin, or bony arms, it is likely that your forearms will hurt when you have hit the ball a few times. Don't worry, if you power through it, you will get used to it, and it will stop hurting.\\n\", \"Do not hit the ball with your hands. Many people say it hurts to play volleyball but it is usually because they are hitting the ball with their hands. In addition, the hands do not make a good, flat platform, and you're bump will likely go errant.\\n\", \"Be sure not to cross your fingers. This could lead to injury if the ball accidentally hits your hands.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,691 |
Bumps on the Scalp: What are Causes and Treatments?
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1. Identifying Common Causes
1-1. Check for itchy, pus-filled bumps to identify acne or scalp folliculitis.
Folliculitis is a common scalp condition that causes acne-like bumps, especially around the hairline. This condition occurs when your hair follicles get clogged up and inflamed. If you have small, itchy pimples scattered over your scalp, it may be folliculitis.
If your scalp itches a lot, you may develop scabs or crusting over the bumps from scratching them.
Scalp folliculitis can have many causes, including bacterial infection, a buildup of yeast in your scalp, or a reaction to tiny mites that live on your scalp.
1-2. Look for severe itching and a red rash if you suspect contact dermatitis.
If you have a bad reaction to a hair product or another substance that’s come into contact with your scalp, you might develop a painful or itchy rash. Watch for bumps, swelling, and tenderness as well.
In some cases, you might get blisters or dry, flaking skin.
Rashes caused by contact dermatitis usually clear up on their own in 2-4 weeks, but your symptoms might last longer if you don’t identify and remove the cause of the irritation right away.
1-3. Identify hives by looking for irregular, itchy welts.
If you have big, flat, irregularly shaped bumps on your scalp that come and go, you might have hives. Look out for welts that are triggered by exposure to an allergen, certain medications, or environmental triggers like stress, heat, or pressure on your skin.
For example, you might develop hives on your scalp after exercising or wearing a tight hat or headband.
Hives can be extremely itchy. They might also disappear and reappear very quickly, or change size or shape.
Other inflammatory reactions, like lichen planus, can also cause bumps on your scalp. Lichen planus typically causes tiny bumps, a painful red rash, and sometimes hair loss.
1-4. Make note of a fever and other symptoms of a viral infection.
Occasionally, bumps on your scalp can be a symptom of a more widespread viral infection, such as chickenpox or shingles. If you develop a bumpy rash on your scalp, pay attention to more systemic symptoms, such as a fever, chills, muscle aches, headache, tiredness, or a general feeling of being unwell.
Most viral rashes clear up on their own within a few days to a couple of weeks. If your rash starts to get worse instead of better, or if you develop severe symptoms such as difficulty breathing, a high fever, or pain and stiffness in your neck, see a doctor right away.
1-5. Examine your hair for small, pearly nits to spot head lice.
Head lice can cause small, itchy bumps or sores on your scalp and neck. If you notice these symptoms, lift the hair at the back of your neck and look at it in a mirror, or ask someone else to look at it for you. If there are tiny, pearly white or brownish ovals clinging to the hair shafts, then you likely have a lice infestation.
Nits are the eggs of head lice. They often become easier to see once they hatch, since empty nits are lighter in color.
You might also see the lice themselves, although they are typically harder to spot. They are tiny grey or tan insects, about the size of a sesame seed.
1-6. Watch for smooth, painless bumps to recognize cysts.
Cysts are collections of keratin and lipids (fats) that sometimes form in hair follicles. If you develop a large, firm bump on your scalp, it may be a cyst. They are typically painless, although they can become painful if they get infected or inflamed.
Cysts are usually harmless and often go away on their own without treatment. However, it’s always a good idea to get an unusual lump or growth checked out by a doctor or dermatologist. In rare cases, a growth like this may turn out to be skin cancer.
2. Trying Home Remedies
2-1. Apply a warm saltwater compress to any irritated bumps.
You might be able to get some relief from folliculitis, cysts, or other inflamed bumps on your scalp by applying a warm, moist compress. Mix 1 tablespoon (17 g) of salt with 2 cups (470 mL) of warm water. Dampen a washcloth in the solution and press it to the affected area. You can do this as many times a day as you like.
A warm compress can also help drain a pustule or cyst.
As an alternative to saltwater, try mixing 1.5 cups (350 ml) of warm water with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of vinegar. Use this mixture 3-6 times a day. The vinegar’s antimicrobial properties may help clear up any infections in your scalp.
Use a fresh, clean washcloth every time you apply a warm compress. Don’t use the same washcloth to clean other areas of your skin, since you might spread the infection.
2-2. Wash your hair after sweating or using hair products.
Shampooing your hair regularly can prevent the buildup of irritating dirt, oils, sweat, and hair products. It’s especially important to wash your hair after working out, sweating, or using products that can build up in your hair, like hairsprays, gels, or waxes.
Scalp irritation can be a sign of either over- or under-washing your hair, so experiment with your normal shampooing schedule. You may need to wash your hair more often if you have an oily scalp, or less often if it’s dry.
2-3. Avoid hats or head coverings that are tight or hot.
Tight, hot, or non-breathable head coverings can contribute to breakouts and irritation. If you wear a hat, headband, or headscarf, choose one that’s made of a light material and fits loosely on your head.
Heat or friction on your scalp can contribute to problems like folliculitis or hives.
2-4. Take a break from shaving if you shave your head.
If you shave your head, let your hair grow out a little until your scalp has had time to heal. Shaving can irritate any active sores, pimples, or rashes, and it can also contribute to the development of ingrown hairs or razor burn.
If the bumps on your scalp are caused by shaving, they should clear up within a few weeks after you stop shaving.
You can reduce your chance of developing razor burn or folliculitis by using an electric razor and properly lubricating your hair and skin with warm water and a gentle shaving gel.
2-5. Try an OTC medicated shampoo to treat folliculitis.
Folliculitis is one of the most common causes of bumps or pimples on the scalp. Depending on what’s causing your folliculitis, you might be able to clear it up with an anti-fungal or anti-dandruff shampoo. Look for shampoos containing ingredients such as ketoconazole, ciclopirox, selenium, or propylene glycol.
There’s some evidence that tea tree oil can help fight the bacteria or fungi that contribute to a variety of skin conditions, including folliculitis. Try a shampoo or conditioner containing tea tree oil, or add a few drops to your favorite conditioner.
You can also try putting an antibacterial ointment on the affected skin or washing it with an antibacterial soap, but this will only help if your folliculitis is caused by bacteria (as opposed to yeast or fungus).
Soothing anti-itch creams may help relieve discomfort and prevent further irritation caused by scratching.
2-6. Switch to hypoallergenic hair products if you have dermatitis or hives.
Sometimes bumps on your scalp can be caused by an allergic reaction to a hair product. If you suspect this is the problem, try switching to gentler products that are formulated for sensitive skin.
Look for shampoos and other hair products that are marked “hypoallergenic,” “sensitive,” or “free and clear.” Avoid products that contain dyes and perfumes.
Check the ingredients list carefully for any ingredients you know you’re allergic to.
Aside from fragrance, some other common allergens in shampoo include cocamidopropyl betaine, methylchloroisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasing preservatives, propylene glycol, parabens, and vitamin E.
2-7. Ask your doctor about vitamin supplements to improve your skin health.
Some vitamins and supplements may help improve the health of your scalp, reducing bumps and breakouts. Ask your doctor if you might benefit from supplements such as:
Vitamin B
Zinc
Omega-3 fatty acids
2-8. Use OTC medications to treat a head lice infestation.
If you think you have head lice, you may be able to get rid of them with an over-the-counter lice shampoo. These products may take several treatments over the course of 1-2 weeks to work, so read and follow the instructions carefully.
You can also remove many of the lice and nits from your hair using a fine-tooth nit comb. Wet your hair and add some conditioner or an oil, such as olive oil, to help lubricate the hair. The oil might also help smother and kill the lice.
You can buy head lice treatments and combs at most drug stores.
Once you get rid of the lice, the bumps and itching should clear up.
3. Seeking Medical Help
3-1. See a doctor if OTC remedies aren’t helping.
If you’ve been trying OTC medicines or home remedies for a few weeks without any change, call your doctor and make an appointment. They can examine your scalp and ask you questions about your symptoms, health history, and hair care habits to determine the cause of the problem.
Let your doctor know when the symptoms started and if you’ve experienced any recent health or lifestyle changes that might be related.
Give them a full list of any medications or supplements you’re taking, since this may help them pinpoint the cause of the problem. They may also need this information to figure out what medicines they can safely prescribe.
3-2. Get medical help if you see signs of an infection.
Many causes of bumps on your scalp are fairly harmless, and they’ll often clear up on their own or with home care. However, sometimes a secondary infection can develop, or the bumps can be a sign of a more serious problem that needs medical attention. See your doctor as soon as possible if you notice signs of a more severe infection, such as:
Increasing pain, swelling, warmth, or tenderness in the affected area
A fever or a general feeling of being unwell
Pus or other discharge draining from the bumps
Red streaks moving away from the affected area
3-3. Take any medications according to your doctor’s instructions.
Depending on what’s causing the problem, your doctor may prescribe a medication to treat the bumps on your scalp. For example, if you have folliculitis, they might recommend using antifungal or antibiotic creams or pills, or a steroid cream to help reduce inflammation. Follow your doctor’s instructions for using these medications exactly.
Don’t combine prescription and over-the-counter treatments unless your doctor says it’s okay.
If you’re taking an antibiotic or antifungal medication, finish the complete course of medication unless your doctor tells you to do otherwise. Stopping the medication too early could cause the infection to come back or get worse.
3-4. Have a dermatologist look at suspicious growths or moles.
In rare cases, bumps on your scalp can be a sign of skin cancer. If you notice any unusual looking moles, changes to any moles on your scalp, sores that won’t heal, or firm bumps or growths, make an appointment with your doctor or a dermatologist. They can examine your scalp and do tests to determine if the growths are anything to worry about.
If your doctor suspects skin cancer, they may take a biopsy, or tissue sample, for testing. They’ll give you a local anesthetic to numb the area so you don’t feel any pain.
Try not to worry if you find an unusual lump or mole on your scalp. Most skin cancers are very treatable if you catch and treat them early.
Tips
If you have a severely itchy scalp, see a dermatologist. This may be a symptom of a condition that needs medical treatment, like scabies or scalp ringworm.[35]
X
Trustworthy Source
American Academy of Dermatology
Professional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists
Go to source
In addition to clearing up your scalp bumps, medicated shampoos can also help with other common conditions, such as an itchy scalp or dandruff caused by seborrheic dermatitis.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Identifying Common Causes\\n1-1. Check for itchy, pus-filled bumps to identify acne or scalp folliculitis.\\nFolliculitis is a common scalp condition that causes acne-like bumps, especially around the hairline. This condition occurs when your hair follicles get clogged up and inflamed. If you have small, itchy pimples scattered over your scalp, it may be folliculitis.\\nIf your scalp itches a lot, you may develop scabs or crusting over the bumps from scratching them.\\nScalp folliculitis can have many causes, including bacterial infection, a buildup of yeast in your scalp, or a reaction to tiny mites that live on your scalp.\\n1-2. Look for severe itching and a red rash if you suspect contact dermatitis.\\nIf you have a bad reaction to a hair product or another substance that’s come into contact with your scalp, you might develop a painful or itchy rash. Watch for bumps, swelling, and tenderness as well.\\nIn some cases, you might get blisters or dry, flaking skin.\\nRashes caused by contact dermatitis usually clear up on their own in 2-4 weeks, but your symptoms might last longer if you don’t identify and remove the cause of the irritation right away.\\n1-3. Identify hives by looking for irregular, itchy welts.\\nIf you have big, flat, irregularly shaped bumps on your scalp that come and go, you might have hives. Look out for welts that are triggered by exposure to an allergen, certain medications, or environmental triggers like stress, heat, or pressure on your skin.\\nFor example, you might develop hives on your scalp after exercising or wearing a tight hat or headband.\\nHives can be extremely itchy. They might also disappear and reappear very quickly, or change size or shape.\\nOther inflammatory reactions, like lichen planus, can also cause bumps on your scalp. Lichen planus typically causes tiny bumps, a painful red rash, and sometimes hair loss.\\n1-4. Make note of a fever and other symptoms of a viral infection.\\nOccasionally, bumps on your scalp can be a symptom of a more widespread viral infection, such as chickenpox or shingles. If you develop a bumpy rash on your scalp, pay attention to more systemic symptoms, such as a fever, chills, muscle aches, headache, tiredness, or a general feeling of being unwell.\\nMost viral rashes clear up on their own within a few days to a couple of weeks. If your rash starts to get worse instead of better, or if you develop severe symptoms such as difficulty breathing, a high fever, or pain and stiffness in your neck, see a doctor right away.\\n1-5. Examine your hair for small, pearly nits to spot head lice.\\nHead lice can cause small, itchy bumps or sores on your scalp and neck. If you notice these symptoms, lift the hair at the back of your neck and look at it in a mirror, or ask someone else to look at it for you. If there are tiny, pearly white or brownish ovals clinging to the hair shafts, then you likely have a lice infestation.\\nNits are the eggs of head lice. They often become easier to see once they hatch, since empty nits are lighter in color.\\nYou might also see the lice themselves, although they are typically harder to spot. They are tiny grey or tan insects, about the size of a sesame seed.\\n1-6. Watch for smooth, painless bumps to recognize cysts.\\nCysts are collections of keratin and lipids (fats) that sometimes form in hair follicles. If you develop a large, firm bump on your scalp, it may be a cyst. They are typically painless, although they can become painful if they get infected or inflamed.\\nCysts are usually harmless and often go away on their own without treatment. However, it’s always a good idea to get an unusual lump or growth checked out by a doctor or dermatologist. In rare cases, a growth like this may turn out to be skin cancer.\\n2. Trying Home Remedies\\n2-1. Apply a warm saltwater compress to any irritated bumps.\\nYou might be able to get some relief from folliculitis, cysts, or other inflamed bumps on your scalp by applying a warm, moist compress. Mix 1 tablespoon (17 g) of salt with 2 cups (470 mL) of warm water. Dampen a washcloth in the solution and press it to the affected area. You can do this as many times a day as you like.\\nA warm compress can also help drain a pustule or cyst.\\nAs an alternative to saltwater, try mixing 1.5 cups (350 ml) of warm water with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of vinegar. Use this mixture 3-6 times a day. The vinegar’s antimicrobial properties may help clear up any infections in your scalp.\\nUse a fresh, clean washcloth every time you apply a warm compress. Don’t use the same washcloth to clean other areas of your skin, since you might spread the infection.\\n2-2. Wash your hair after sweating or using hair products.\\nShampooing your hair regularly can prevent the buildup of irritating dirt, oils, sweat, and hair products. It’s especially important to wash your hair after working out, sweating, or using products that can build up in your hair, like hairsprays, gels, or waxes.\\nScalp irritation can be a sign of either over- or under-washing your hair, so experiment with your normal shampooing schedule. You may need to wash your hair more often if you have an oily scalp, or less often if it’s dry.\\n2-3. Avoid hats or head coverings that are tight or hot.\\nTight, hot, or non-breathable head coverings can contribute to breakouts and irritation. If you wear a hat, headband, or headscarf, choose one that’s made of a light material and fits loosely on your head.\\nHeat or friction on your scalp can contribute to problems like folliculitis or hives.\\n2-4. Take a break from shaving if you shave your head.\\nIf you shave your head, let your hair grow out a little until your scalp has had time to heal. Shaving can irritate any active sores, pimples, or rashes, and it can also contribute to the development of ingrown hairs or razor burn.\\nIf the bumps on your scalp are caused by shaving, they should clear up within a few weeks after you stop shaving.\\nYou can reduce your chance of developing razor burn or folliculitis by using an electric razor and properly lubricating your hair and skin with warm water and a gentle shaving gel.\\n2-5. Try an OTC medicated shampoo to treat folliculitis.\\nFolliculitis is one of the most common causes of bumps or pimples on the scalp. Depending on what’s causing your folliculitis, you might be able to clear it up with an anti-fungal or anti-dandruff shampoo. Look for shampoos containing ingredients such as ketoconazole, ciclopirox, selenium, or propylene glycol.\\nThere’s some evidence that tea tree oil can help fight the bacteria or fungi that contribute to a variety of skin conditions, including folliculitis. Try a shampoo or conditioner containing tea tree oil, or add a few drops to your favorite conditioner.\\nYou can also try putting an antibacterial ointment on the affected skin or washing it with an antibacterial soap, but this will only help if your folliculitis is caused by bacteria (as opposed to yeast or fungus).\\nSoothing anti-itch creams may help relieve discomfort and prevent further irritation caused by scratching.\\n2-6. Switch to hypoallergenic hair products if you have dermatitis or hives.\\nSometimes bumps on your scalp can be caused by an allergic reaction to a hair product. If you suspect this is the problem, try switching to gentler products that are formulated for sensitive skin.\\nLook for shampoos and other hair products that are marked “hypoallergenic,” “sensitive,” or “free and clear.” Avoid products that contain dyes and perfumes.\\nCheck the ingredients list carefully for any ingredients you know you’re allergic to.\\nAside from fragrance, some other common allergens in shampoo include cocamidopropyl betaine, methylchloroisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasing preservatives, propylene glycol, parabens, and vitamin E.\\n2-7. Ask your doctor about vitamin supplements to improve your skin health.\\nSome vitamins and supplements may help improve the health of your scalp, reducing bumps and breakouts. Ask your doctor if you might benefit from supplements such as:\\nVitamin B\\nZinc\\nOmega-3 fatty acids\\n2-8. Use OTC medications to treat a head lice infestation.\\nIf you think you have head lice, you may be able to get rid of them with an over-the-counter lice shampoo. These products may take several treatments over the course of 1-2 weeks to work, so read and follow the instructions carefully.\\nYou can also remove many of the lice and nits from your hair using a fine-tooth nit comb. Wet your hair and add some conditioner or an oil, such as olive oil, to help lubricate the hair. The oil might also help smother and kill the lice.\\nYou can buy head lice treatments and combs at most drug stores.\\nOnce you get rid of the lice, the bumps and itching should clear up.\\n3. Seeking Medical Help\\n3-1. See a doctor if OTC remedies aren’t helping.\\nIf you’ve been trying OTC medicines or home remedies for a few weeks without any change, call your doctor and make an appointment. They can examine your scalp and ask you questions about your symptoms, health history, and hair care habits to determine the cause of the problem.\\nLet your doctor know when the symptoms started and if you’ve experienced any recent health or lifestyle changes that might be related.\\nGive them a full list of any medications or supplements you’re taking, since this may help them pinpoint the cause of the problem. They may also need this information to figure out what medicines they can safely prescribe.\\n3-2. Get medical help if you see signs of an infection.\\nMany causes of bumps on your scalp are fairly harmless, and they’ll often clear up on their own or with home care. However, sometimes a secondary infection can develop, or the bumps can be a sign of a more serious problem that needs medical attention. See your doctor as soon as possible if you notice signs of a more severe infection, such as:\\nIncreasing pain, swelling, warmth, or tenderness in the affected area\\nA fever or a general feeling of being unwell\\nPus or other discharge draining from the bumps\\nRed streaks moving away from the affected area\\n3-3. Take any medications according to your doctor’s instructions.\\nDepending on what’s causing the problem, your doctor may prescribe a medication to treat the bumps on your scalp. For example, if you have folliculitis, they might recommend using antifungal or antibiotic creams or pills, or a steroid cream to help reduce inflammation. Follow your doctor’s instructions for using these medications exactly.\\nDon’t combine prescription and over-the-counter treatments unless your doctor says it’s okay.\\nIf you’re taking an antibiotic or antifungal medication, finish the complete course of medication unless your doctor tells you to do otherwise. Stopping the medication too early could cause the infection to come back or get worse.\\n3-4. Have a dermatologist look at suspicious growths or moles.\\nIn rare cases, bumps on your scalp can be a sign of skin cancer. If you notice any unusual looking moles, changes to any moles on your scalp, sores that won’t heal, or firm bumps or growths, make an appointment with your doctor or a dermatologist. They can examine your scalp and do tests to determine if the growths are anything to worry about.\\nIf your doctor suspects skin cancer, they may take a biopsy, or tissue sample, for testing. They’ll give you a local anesthetic to numb the area so you don’t feel any pain.\\nTry not to worry if you find an unusual lump or mole on your scalp. Most skin cancers are very treatable if you catch and treat them early.\\nTips\\nIf you have a severely itchy scalp, see a dermatologist. This may be a symptom of a condition that needs medical treatment, like scabies or scalp ringworm.[35]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Academy of Dermatology\\nProfessional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists\\nGo to source\\nIn addition to clearing up your scalp bumps, medicated shampoos can also help with other common conditions, such as an itchy scalp or dandruff caused by seborrheic dermatitis.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bumps on your scalp can be stressful and irritating. Luckily, most of these pesky bumps are easy to treat, once you figure out what’s causing them. Common causes include folliculitis, allergic reactions, and head lice. If home treatments don’t work to clear up your bumps, see a doctor for help.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Identifying Common Causes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check for itchy, pus-filled bumps to identify acne or scalp folliculitis.\", \"描述\": \"Folliculitis is a common scalp condition that causes acne-like bumps, especially around the hairline. This condition occurs when your hair follicles get clogged up and inflamed. If you have small, itchy pimples scattered over your scalp, it may be folliculitis.\\nIf your scalp itches a lot, you may develop scabs or crusting over the bumps from scratching them.\\nScalp folliculitis can have many causes, including bacterial infection, a buildup of yeast in your scalp, or a reaction to tiny mites that live on your scalp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for severe itching and a red rash if you suspect contact dermatitis.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a bad reaction to a hair product or another substance that’s come into contact with your scalp, you might develop a painful or itchy rash. Watch for bumps, swelling, and tenderness as well.\\nIn some cases, you might get blisters or dry, flaking skin.\\nRashes caused by contact dermatitis usually clear up on their own in 2-4 weeks, but your symptoms might last longer if you don’t identify and remove the cause of the irritation right away.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Identify hives by looking for irregular, itchy welts.\", \"描述\": \"If you have big, flat, irregularly shaped bumps on your scalp that come and go, you might have hives. Look out for welts that are triggered by exposure to an allergen, certain medications, or environmental triggers like stress, heat, or pressure on your skin.\\nFor example, you might develop hives on your scalp after exercising or wearing a tight hat or headband.\\nHives can be extremely itchy. They might also disappear and reappear very quickly, or change size or shape.\\nOther inflammatory reactions, like lichen planus, can also cause bumps on your scalp. Lichen planus typically causes tiny bumps, a painful red rash, and sometimes hair loss.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make note of a fever and other symptoms of a viral infection.\", \"描述\": \"Occasionally, bumps on your scalp can be a symptom of a more widespread viral infection, such as chickenpox or shingles. If you develop a bumpy rash on your scalp, pay attention to more systemic symptoms, such as a fever, chills, muscle aches, headache, tiredness, or a general feeling of being unwell.\\nMost viral rashes clear up on their own within a few days to a couple of weeks. If your rash starts to get worse instead of better, or if you develop severe symptoms such as difficulty breathing, a high fever, or pain and stiffness in your neck, see a doctor right away.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Examine your hair for small, pearly nits to spot head lice.\", \"描述\": \"Head lice can cause small, itchy bumps or sores on your scalp and neck. If you notice these symptoms, lift the hair at the back of your neck and look at it in a mirror, or ask someone else to look at it for you. If there are tiny, pearly white or brownish ovals clinging to the hair shafts, then you likely have a lice infestation.\\nNits are the eggs of head lice. They often become easier to see once they hatch, since empty nits are lighter in color.\\nYou might also see the lice themselves, although they are typically harder to spot. They are tiny grey or tan insects, about the size of a sesame seed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Watch for smooth, painless bumps to recognize cysts.\", \"描述\": \"Cysts are collections of keratin and lipids (fats) that sometimes form in hair follicles. If you develop a large, firm bump on your scalp, it may be a cyst. They are typically painless, although they can become painful if they get infected or inflamed.\\nCysts are usually harmless and often go away on their own without treatment. However, it’s always a good idea to get an unusual lump or growth checked out by a doctor or dermatologist. In rare cases, a growth like this may turn out to be skin cancer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trying Home Remedies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply a warm saltwater compress to any irritated bumps.\", \"描述\": \"You might be able to get some relief from folliculitis, cysts, or other inflamed bumps on your scalp by applying a warm, moist compress. Mix 1 tablespoon (17 g) of salt with 2 cups (470 mL) of warm water. Dampen a washcloth in the solution and press it to the affected area. You can do this as many times a day as you like.\\nA warm compress can also help drain a pustule or cyst.\\nAs an alternative to saltwater, try mixing 1.5 cups (350 ml) of warm water with 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of vinegar. Use this mixture 3-6 times a day. The vinegar’s antimicrobial properties may help clear up any infections in your scalp.\\nUse a fresh, clean washcloth every time you apply a warm compress. Don’t use the same washcloth to clean other areas of your skin, since you might spread the infection.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wash your hair after sweating or using hair products.\", \"描述\": \"Shampooing your hair regularly can prevent the buildup of irritating dirt, oils, sweat, and hair products. It’s especially important to wash your hair after working out, sweating, or using products that can build up in your hair, like hairsprays, gels, or waxes.\\nScalp irritation can be a sign of either over- or under-washing your hair, so experiment with your normal shampooing schedule. You may need to wash your hair more often if you have an oily scalp, or less often if it’s dry.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Avoid hats or head coverings that are tight or hot.\", \"描述\": \"Tight, hot, or non-breathable head coverings can contribute to breakouts and irritation. If you wear a hat, headband, or headscarf, choose one that’s made of a light material and fits loosely on your head.\\nHeat or friction on your scalp can contribute to problems like folliculitis or hives.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take a break from shaving if you shave your head.\", \"描述\": \"If you shave your head, let your hair grow out a little until your scalp has had time to heal. Shaving can irritate any active sores, pimples, or rashes, and it can also contribute to the development of ingrown hairs or razor burn.\\nIf the bumps on your scalp are caused by shaving, they should clear up within a few weeks after you stop shaving.\\nYou can reduce your chance of developing razor burn or folliculitis by using an electric razor and properly lubricating your hair and skin with warm water and a gentle shaving gel.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try an OTC medicated shampoo to treat folliculitis.\", \"描述\": \"Folliculitis is one of the most common causes of bumps or pimples on the scalp. Depending on what’s causing your folliculitis, you might be able to clear it up with an anti-fungal or anti-dandruff shampoo. Look for shampoos containing ingredients such as ketoconazole, ciclopirox, selenium, or propylene glycol.\\nThere’s some evidence that tea tree oil can help fight the bacteria or fungi that contribute to a variety of skin conditions, including folliculitis. Try a shampoo or conditioner containing tea tree oil, or add a few drops to your favorite conditioner.\\nYou can also try putting an antibacterial ointment on the affected skin or washing it with an antibacterial soap, but this will only help if your folliculitis is caused by bacteria (as opposed to yeast or fungus).\\nSoothing anti-itch creams may help relieve discomfort and prevent further irritation caused by scratching.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Switch to hypoallergenic hair products if you have dermatitis or hives.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes bumps on your scalp can be caused by an allergic reaction to a hair product. If you suspect this is the problem, try switching to gentler products that are formulated for sensitive skin.\\nLook for shampoos and other hair products that are marked “hypoallergenic,” “sensitive,” or “free and clear.” Avoid products that contain dyes and perfumes.\\nCheck the ingredients list carefully for any ingredients you know you’re allergic to.\\nAside from fragrance, some other common allergens in shampoo include cocamidopropyl betaine, methylchloroisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasing preservatives, propylene glycol, parabens, and vitamin E.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Ask your doctor about vitamin supplements to improve your skin health.\", \"描述\": \"Some vitamins and supplements may help improve the health of your scalp, reducing bumps and breakouts. Ask your doctor if you might benefit from supplements such as:\\nVitamin B\\nZinc\\nOmega-3 fatty acids\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Use OTC medications to treat a head lice infestation.\", \"描述\": \"If you think you have head lice, you may be able to get rid of them with an over-the-counter lice shampoo. These products may take several treatments over the course of 1-2 weeks to work, so read and follow the instructions carefully.\\nYou can also remove many of the lice and nits from your hair using a fine-tooth nit comb. Wet your hair and add some conditioner or an oil, such as olive oil, to help lubricate the hair. The oil might also help smother and kill the lice.\\nYou can buy head lice treatments and combs at most drug stores.\\nOnce you get rid of the lice, the bumps and itching should clear up.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Seeking Medical Help\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"See a doctor if OTC remedies aren’t helping.\", \"描述\": \"If you’ve been trying OTC medicines or home remedies for a few weeks without any change, call your doctor and make an appointment. They can examine your scalp and ask you questions about your symptoms, health history, and hair care habits to determine the cause of the problem.\\nLet your doctor know when the symptoms started and if you’ve experienced any recent health or lifestyle changes that might be related.\\nGive them a full list of any medications or supplements you’re taking, since this may help them pinpoint the cause of the problem. They may also need this information to figure out what medicines they can safely prescribe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get medical help if you see signs of an infection.\", \"描述\": \"Many causes of bumps on your scalp are fairly harmless, and they’ll often clear up on their own or with home care. However, sometimes a secondary infection can develop, or the bumps can be a sign of a more serious problem that needs medical attention. See your doctor as soon as possible if you notice signs of a more severe infection, such as:\\nIncreasing pain, swelling, warmth, or tenderness in the affected area\\nA fever or a general feeling of being unwell\\nPus or other discharge draining from the bumps\\nRed streaks moving away from the affected area\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Take any medications according to your doctor’s instructions.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on what’s causing the problem, your doctor may prescribe a medication to treat the bumps on your scalp. For example, if you have folliculitis, they might recommend using antifungal or antibiotic creams or pills, or a steroid cream to help reduce inflammation. Follow your doctor’s instructions for using these medications exactly.\\nDon’t combine prescription and over-the-counter treatments unless your doctor says it’s okay.\\nIf you’re taking an antibiotic or antifungal medication, finish the complete course of medication unless your doctor tells you to do otherwise. Stopping the medication too early could cause the infection to come back or get worse.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Have a dermatologist look at suspicious growths or moles.\", \"描述\": \"In rare cases, bumps on your scalp can be a sign of skin cancer. If you notice any unusual looking moles, changes to any moles on your scalp, sores that won’t heal, or firm bumps or growths, make an appointment with your doctor or a dermatologist. They can examine your scalp and do tests to determine if the growths are anything to worry about.\\nIf your doctor suspects skin cancer, they may take a biopsy, or tissue sample, for testing. They’ll give you a local anesthetic to numb the area so you don’t feel any pain.\\nTry not to worry if you find an unusual lump or mole on your scalp. Most skin cancers are very treatable if you catch and treat them early.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you have a severely itchy scalp, see a dermatologist. This may be a symptom of a condition that needs medical treatment, like scabies or scalp ringworm.[35]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nAmerican Academy of Dermatology\\nProfessional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists\\nGo to source\\n\", \"In addition to clearing up your scalp bumps, medicated shampoos can also help with other common conditions, such as an itchy scalp or dandruff caused by seborrheic dermatitis.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,692 |
How to Bundle
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1. Preparing Your Clothes
1-1. Understand the concept.
Bundling is a packing method used to greatly reduce wrinkles and creases. You'll wrap each garment around a core object, creating a snug bundle in the process.
Since this method requires you to wrap your clothes, you won't actually do any folding. The lack of folding results in a lack of creases.
Wrapping items of clothing around a core and around each other also creates tension. This tension minimizes wrinkling.
1-2. Prepare an organizer pouch.
Find an organizer pouch with surface dimensions that are approximately 11 inches by 16 inches (30 cm by 40 cm).
The best dimensions can vary slightly depending on how many clothes you plan to pack and how wide your suitcase is. This size works well for most circumstances, though.
You can technically use any small object with fixed dimensions like these. Since you can fill the pouch with other necessities, however, it is typically your best option.
1-3. Fill the pouch with small, soft items.
Roll or fold the socks and undergarments you plan to pack and carefully arrange them inside the pouch.
Similar items, like swimsuits, can also be packed in your pouch.
Place soft items in this pouch, and fill the pouch with enough of these items to create a firm pillow. The idea is to make a firm core, but it should not be a rigid one.
Do not put anything in your pouch that you need quick access to.
1-4. Iron your clothes.
Take the time to iron out any major creases or wrinkles before you pack any of your garments. Correct bundling should prevent additional wrinkles from forming, but it will not remove any wrinkles currently in your clothes.
1-5. Fasten all buttons, zippers, and snaps.
Secure all fasteners on all garments. Button your shirts and jackets, zipper any trousers or skirts, and snap up any pockets.
Closed surfaces will be easier to wrap than wide, open surfaces.
1-6. Work on a flat surface.
Clear your bed or a large area on a table or floor. It will be easiest to create your bundle in a flat spot with little clutter.
Another option is to open your suitcase wrap the bundle directly inside. Doing so is more difficult and not ideal, but it can work in situations where wide space is not an option.
1-7. Determine a working order.
Large wrinkle-prone garments will need to be placed on the outside of the bundle, while smaller wrinkle-resistant garments are placed closer to the core.
Clothing near the outer layers of your bundle will be wrapped at a gentler curve, so the risk of creasing and wrinkling is reduced even more significantly there.
The exact arrangement will vary based on the clothes you have, but the outer layer usually consists of suit jackets and other jackets, followed immediately by long skirts and dresses. Long-sleeved shirts are next, followed by short-sleeved shirts, trousers, jeans, sweaters, and knit fabrics, in that order. Shorts and cotton pajamas are usually closest to the core.
2. Creating the Bundle
2-1. Spread out the most wrinkle-prone garment.
Usually, this will be a jacket, long skirt, or long dress. Lay it out flat and smooth out any folds and light wrinkles with your hands.
Most clothes should be placed face up.
Tailored jackets, however, should be placed face down. Arrange the sleeves so that they lie naturally.
2-2. Note the dimensions of your core.
One edge of each clothing item will need to line up with one edge of your core organizer.
The direction of each consecutive layer will vary, but as you place each layer down, one edge of all existing layers (including the newest one) will need to be able to line up with one edge of the core.
Each garment will line up with a different edge of the core, however. The garments do not need to line up with the same edge.
2-3. Orient shirts vertically.
Long-sleeve shirts and short-sleeve shirts are usually next in your bundle. These items should be placed vertically in your pile.
Alternate the direction of your shirts to maintain an even shape. If the first shirt is upright, the second shirt must be upside-down, the third must be upright, the fourth must be upside-down, and so on.
The collar edges should be aligned to the top and bottom of the core. Even though the core has not been placed down yet, keep that in mind as you position the shirts.
2-4. Spread out pants horizontally.
Trousers, jeans, and other pants are usually placed on top of the shirt layers and further in toward the center of the bundle. All pants should be oriented horizontally.
Alternate the direction of your pants, too. If the waist is to the left on your first pair, the waist of your second pair should be to the right. That of the third pair should be to the left, that of the fourth should be to the right, and so on.
The waist edges of each pair of pants should be aligned to the anticipated right and left edges of your core organizer.
2-5. Repeat down to the last garment.
Gradually layer the rest of your clothes on top of the others, working from the most wrinkle-prone to the most wrinkle-resistant.
As a general rule, shorter items are oriented vertically while longer items are oriented horizontally.
Note that wide skirts may need to be folded lengthwise before you wrap them, but you should avoid folds as often as possible.
Smooth out each garment with your hands before spreading a new layer on top.
2-6. Place the core on top.
Position your organizer pouch (or other core object) on top of your assembled pile of clothing.
Remember that one edge of your core must align with one edge of each garment.
2-7. Wrap the top piece over the core.
The last garment you placed should be the one closest to your core object. Wrap the three hanging sides over the edges of the core.
The entire clothing item must be wrapped around the core. Do not leave any excess material hanging off the sides.
Wrap the item firmly so that the fabric remains taut, but do not stretch the garment out of shape.
2-8. Work your way through the rest of the pile.
Wrap each consecutive garment around the core, leaving no excess material hanging off the sides of your bundle. Work with one garment at a time, continuing through the final outer piece.
If necessary, rearrange the position of the bundle so that it lines up with the correct edge of the garment layer you are currently working with.
When working with pants, long skirts, and other long items that run from side to side, wrap the material completely over and under the bundle as much as needed to keep all of the material contained.
When working with a long-sleeved shirt, wrap one sleeve straight across the bundle as far as possible, wrapping it across and underneath the bundle itself. Repeat that for the other sleeve, then wrap over the bottom of the garment as far as possible.
Jacket sleeves will need to be wrapped diagonally across to keep to the natural positioning of the sleeve. As a result, they will form an "X" over the top of the bundle.
3. Carrying the Bundle
3-1. Place the bundle in your bag.
Carefully pick up your bundle and place it in your suitcase.
Place the "seam" side of your bundle face down. In other words, the top-most loose edge of your bundle should face the inside of your suitcase.
Move the bundle carefully to prevent it from unraveling. If you wound it correctly, though, the bundle should be snug enough to resist unraveling.
3-2. Hold it in place.
Use the interior straps of your suitcase to tie the bundle down.
If the bundle remains loose inside the suitcase, it can move around and may start coming undone.
The straps should be snug and secure over your bundle, but do not adjust them so tightly that they begin digging into the clothes. Excessively tight straps can cause wrinkles to form in your outer bundle layers.
If your suitcase does not have straps, consider sewing some inside before using it. Alternatively, you can fill the sides of your suitcase with other objects to prevent the bundle from shifting as you carry the bag. This may include shoes and toiletries, among other items.
3-3. Open the bundle before wearing the clothes.
When you arrive at your destination, you should open the bundle and shake out the clothes to remove any light wrinkles that may have formed.
Unwrap your bundle carefully. Start with the outermost garment and work layer by layer until you reach the garment nearest the core.
Ideally, you should hang each unpacked item of clothing after removing it from your bundle.
It is easiest to unwrap and hang up the entire bundle at once, but you can remove individual garments from your bundle one at a time, if desired. Simply unwrap the bundle until you reach the garment you want and remove that layer. Then, re-wrap the outer layers around the remaining bundle in their previous order and tuck the bundle away again.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing Your Clothes\\n1-1. Understand the concept.\\nBundling is a packing method used to greatly reduce wrinkles and creases. You'll wrap each garment around a core object, creating a snug bundle in the process.\\nSince this method requires you to wrap your clothes, you won't actually do any folding. The lack of folding results in a lack of creases.\\nWrapping items of clothing around a core and around each other also creates tension. This tension minimizes wrinkling.\\n1-2. Prepare an organizer pouch.\\nFind an organizer pouch with surface dimensions that are approximately 11 inches by 16 inches (30 cm by 40 cm).\\nThe best dimensions can vary slightly depending on how many clothes you plan to pack and how wide your suitcase is. This size works well for most circumstances, though.\\nYou can technically use any small object with fixed dimensions like these. Since you can fill the pouch with other necessities, however, it is typically your best option.\\n1-3. Fill the pouch with small, soft items.\\nRoll or fold the socks and undergarments you plan to pack and carefully arrange them inside the pouch.\\nSimilar items, like swimsuits, can also be packed in your pouch.\\nPlace soft items in this pouch, and fill the pouch with enough of these items to create a firm pillow. The idea is to make a firm core, but it should not be a rigid one.\\nDo not put anything in your pouch that you need quick access to.\\n1-4. Iron your clothes.\\nTake the time to iron out any major creases or wrinkles before you pack any of your garments. Correct bundling should prevent additional wrinkles from forming, but it will not remove any wrinkles currently in your clothes.\\n1-5. Fasten all buttons, zippers, and snaps.\\nSecure all fasteners on all garments. Button your shirts and jackets, zipper any trousers or skirts, and snap up any pockets.\\nClosed surfaces will be easier to wrap than wide, open surfaces.\\n1-6. Work on a flat surface.\\nClear your bed or a large area on a table or floor. It will be easiest to create your bundle in a flat spot with little clutter.\\nAnother option is to open your suitcase wrap the bundle directly inside. Doing so is more difficult and not ideal, but it can work in situations where wide space is not an option.\\n1-7. Determine a working order.\\nLarge wrinkle-prone garments will need to be placed on the outside of the bundle, while smaller wrinkle-resistant garments are placed closer to the core.\\nClothing near the outer layers of your bundle will be wrapped at a gentler curve, so the risk of creasing and wrinkling is reduced even more significantly there.\\nThe exact arrangement will vary based on the clothes you have, but the outer layer usually consists of suit jackets and other jackets, followed immediately by long skirts and dresses. Long-sleeved shirts are next, followed by short-sleeved shirts, trousers, jeans, sweaters, and knit fabrics, in that order. Shorts and cotton pajamas are usually closest to the core.\\n2. Creating the Bundle\\n2-1. Spread out the most wrinkle-prone garment.\\nUsually, this will be a jacket, long skirt, or long dress. Lay it out flat and smooth out any folds and light wrinkles with your hands.\\nMost clothes should be placed face up.\\nTailored jackets, however, should be placed face down. Arrange the sleeves so that they lie naturally.\\n2-2. Note the dimensions of your core.\\nOne edge of each clothing item will need to line up with one edge of your core organizer.\\nThe direction of each consecutive layer will vary, but as you place each layer down, one edge of all existing layers (including the newest one) will need to be able to line up with one edge of the core.\\nEach garment will line up with a different edge of the core, however. The garments do not need to line up with the same edge.\\n2-3. Orient shirts vertically.\\nLong-sleeve shirts and short-sleeve shirts are usually next in your bundle. These items should be placed vertically in your pile.\\nAlternate the direction of your shirts to maintain an even shape. If the first shirt is upright, the second shirt must be upside-down, the third must be upright, the fourth must be upside-down, and so on.\\nThe collar edges should be aligned to the top and bottom of the core. Even though the core has not been placed down yet, keep that in mind as you position the shirts.\\n2-4. Spread out pants horizontally.\\nTrousers, jeans, and other pants are usually placed on top of the shirt layers and further in toward the center of the bundle. All pants should be oriented horizontally.\\nAlternate the direction of your pants, too. If the waist is to the left on your first pair, the waist of your second pair should be to the right. That of the third pair should be to the left, that of the fourth should be to the right, and so on.\\nThe waist edges of each pair of pants should be aligned to the anticipated right and left edges of your core organizer.\\n2-5. Repeat down to the last garment.\\nGradually layer the rest of your clothes on top of the others, working from the most wrinkle-prone to the most wrinkle-resistant.\\nAs a general rule, shorter items are oriented vertically while longer items are oriented horizontally.\\nNote that wide skirts may need to be folded lengthwise before you wrap them, but you should avoid folds as often as possible.\\nSmooth out each garment with your hands before spreading a new layer on top.\\n2-6. Place the core on top.\\nPosition your organizer pouch (or other core object) on top of your assembled pile of clothing.\\nRemember that one edge of your core must align with one edge of each garment.\\n2-7. Wrap the top piece over the core.\\nThe last garment you placed should be the one closest to your core object. Wrap the three hanging sides over the edges of the core.\\nThe entire clothing item must be wrapped around the core. Do not leave any excess material hanging off the sides.\\nWrap the item firmly so that the fabric remains taut, but do not stretch the garment out of shape.\\n2-8. Work your way through the rest of the pile.\\nWrap each consecutive garment around the core, leaving no excess material hanging off the sides of your bundle. Work with one garment at a time, continuing through the final outer piece.\\nIf necessary, rearrange the position of the bundle so that it lines up with the correct edge of the garment layer you are currently working with.\\nWhen working with pants, long skirts, and other long items that run from side to side, wrap the material completely over and under the bundle as much as needed to keep all of the material contained.\\nWhen working with a long-sleeved shirt, wrap one sleeve straight across the bundle as far as possible, wrapping it across and underneath the bundle itself. Repeat that for the other sleeve, then wrap over the bottom of the garment as far as possible.\\nJacket sleeves will need to be wrapped diagonally across to keep to the natural positioning of the sleeve. As a result, they will form an \\\"X\\\" over the top of the bundle.\\n3. Carrying the Bundle\\n3-1. Place the bundle in your bag.\\nCarefully pick up your bundle and place it in your suitcase.\\nPlace the \\\"seam\\\" side of your bundle face down. In other words, the top-most loose edge of your bundle should face the inside of your suitcase.\\nMove the bundle carefully to prevent it from unraveling. If you wound it correctly, though, the bundle should be snug enough to resist unraveling.\\n3-2. Hold it in place.\\nUse the interior straps of your suitcase to tie the bundle down.\\nIf the bundle remains loose inside the suitcase, it can move around and may start coming undone.\\nThe straps should be snug and secure over your bundle, but do not adjust them so tightly that they begin digging into the clothes. Excessively tight straps can cause wrinkles to form in your outer bundle layers.\\nIf your suitcase does not have straps, consider sewing some inside before using it. Alternatively, you can fill the sides of your suitcase with other objects to prevent the bundle from shifting as you carry the bag. This may include shoes and toiletries, among other items.\\n3-3. Open the bundle before wearing the clothes.\\nWhen you arrive at your destination, you should open the bundle and shake out the clothes to remove any light wrinkles that may have formed.\\nUnwrap your bundle carefully. Start with the outermost garment and work layer by layer until you reach the garment nearest the core.\\nIdeally, you should hang each unpacked item of clothing after removing it from your bundle.\\nIt is easiest to unwrap and hang up the entire bundle at once, but you can remove individual garments from your bundle one at a time, if desired. Simply unwrap the bundle until you reach the garment you want and remove that layer. Then, re-wrap the outer layers around the remaining bundle in their previous order and tuck the bundle away again.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The next time you need to pack formal clothes or other garments that wrinkle easily, consider using the bundling method. By wrapping your clothes into a tight bundle instead of loosely folding or rolling them, you can eliminate most wrinkles and creases.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing Your Clothes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the concept.\", \"描述\": \"Bundling is a packing method used to greatly reduce wrinkles and creases. You'll wrap each garment around a core object, creating a snug bundle in the process.\\nSince this method requires you to wrap your clothes, you won't actually do any folding. The lack of folding results in a lack of creases.\\nWrapping items of clothing around a core and around each other also creates tension. This tension minimizes wrinkling.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare an organizer pouch.\", \"描述\": \"Find an organizer pouch with surface dimensions that are approximately 11 inches by 16 inches (30 cm by 40 cm).\\nThe best dimensions can vary slightly depending on how many clothes you plan to pack and how wide your suitcase is. This size works well for most circumstances, though.\\nYou can technically use any small object with fixed dimensions like these. Since you can fill the pouch with other necessities, however, it is typically your best option.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill the pouch with small, soft items.\", \"描述\": \"Roll or fold the socks and undergarments you plan to pack and carefully arrange them inside the pouch.\\nSimilar items, like swimsuits, can also be packed in your pouch.\\nPlace soft items in this pouch, and fill the pouch with enough of these items to create a firm pillow. The idea is to make a firm core, but it should not be a rigid one.\\nDo not put anything in your pouch that you need quick access to.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Iron your clothes.\", \"描述\": \"Take the time to iron out any major creases or wrinkles before you pack any of your garments. Correct bundling should prevent additional wrinkles from forming, but it will not remove any wrinkles currently in your clothes.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fasten all buttons, zippers, and snaps.\", \"描述\": \"Secure all fasteners on all garments. Button your shirts and jackets, zipper any trousers or skirts, and snap up any pockets.\\nClosed surfaces will be easier to wrap than wide, open surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Work on a flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"Clear your bed or a large area on a table or floor. It will be easiest to create your bundle in a flat spot with little clutter.\\nAnother option is to open your suitcase wrap the bundle directly inside. Doing so is more difficult and not ideal, but it can work in situations where wide space is not an option.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Determine a working order.\", \"描述\": \"Large wrinkle-prone garments will need to be placed on the outside of the bundle, while smaller wrinkle-resistant garments are placed closer to the core.\\nClothing near the outer layers of your bundle will be wrapped at a gentler curve, so the risk of creasing and wrinkling is reduced even more significantly there.\\nThe exact arrangement will vary based on the clothes you have, but the outer layer usually consists of suit jackets and other jackets, followed immediately by long skirts and dresses. Long-sleeved shirts are next, followed by short-sleeved shirts, trousers, jeans, sweaters, and knit fabrics, in that order. Shorts and cotton pajamas are usually closest to the core.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Bundle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Spread out the most wrinkle-prone garment.\", \"描述\": \"Usually, this will be a jacket, long skirt, or long dress. Lay it out flat and smooth out any folds and light wrinkles with your hands.\\nMost clothes should be placed face up.\\nTailored jackets, however, should be placed face down. Arrange the sleeves so that they lie naturally.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Note the dimensions of your core.\", \"描述\": \"One edge of each clothing item will need to line up with one edge of your core organizer.\\nThe direction of each consecutive layer will vary, but as you place each layer down, one edge of all existing layers (including the newest one) will need to be able to line up with one edge of the core.\\nEach garment will line up with a different edge of the core, however. The garments do not need to line up with the same edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Orient shirts vertically.\", \"描述\": \"Long-sleeve shirts and short-sleeve shirts are usually next in your bundle. These items should be placed vertically in your pile.\\nAlternate the direction of your shirts to maintain an even shape. If the first shirt is upright, the second shirt must be upside-down, the third must be upright, the fourth must be upside-down, and so on.\\nThe collar edges should be aligned to the top and bottom of the core. Even though the core has not been placed down yet, keep that in mind as you position the shirts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spread out pants horizontally.\", \"描述\": \"Trousers, jeans, and other pants are usually placed on top of the shirt layers and further in toward the center of the bundle. All pants should be oriented horizontally.\\nAlternate the direction of your pants, too. If the waist is to the left on your first pair, the waist of your second pair should be to the right. That of the third pair should be to the left, that of the fourth should be to the right, and so on.\\nThe waist edges of each pair of pants should be aligned to the anticipated right and left edges of your core organizer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Repeat down to the last garment.\", \"描述\": \"Gradually layer the rest of your clothes on top of the others, working from the most wrinkle-prone to the most wrinkle-resistant.\\nAs a general rule, shorter items are oriented vertically while longer items are oriented horizontally.\\nNote that wide skirts may need to be folded lengthwise before you wrap them, but you should avoid folds as often as possible.\\nSmooth out each garment with your hands before spreading a new layer on top.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the core on top.\", \"描述\": \"Position your organizer pouch (or other core object) on top of your assembled pile of clothing.\\nRemember that one edge of your core must align with one edge of each garment.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Wrap the top piece over the core.\", \"描述\": \"The last garment you placed should be the one closest to your core object. Wrap the three hanging sides over the edges of the core.\\nThe entire clothing item must be wrapped around the core. Do not leave any excess material hanging off the sides.\\nWrap the item firmly so that the fabric remains taut, but do not stretch the garment out of shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Work your way through the rest of the pile.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap each consecutive garment around the core, leaving no excess material hanging off the sides of your bundle. Work with one garment at a time, continuing through the final outer piece.\\nIf necessary, rearrange the position of the bundle so that it lines up with the correct edge of the garment layer you are currently working with.\\nWhen working with pants, long skirts, and other long items that run from side to side, wrap the material completely over and under the bundle as much as needed to keep all of the material contained.\\nWhen working with a long-sleeved shirt, wrap one sleeve straight across the bundle as far as possible, wrapping it across and underneath the bundle itself. Repeat that for the other sleeve, then wrap over the bottom of the garment as far as possible.\\nJacket sleeves will need to be wrapped diagonally across to keep to the natural positioning of the sleeve. As a result, they will form an \\\"X\\\" over the top of the bundle.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Carrying the Bundle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the bundle in your bag.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully pick up your bundle and place it in your suitcase.\\nPlace the \\\"seam\\\" side of your bundle face down. In other words, the top-most loose edge of your bundle should face the inside of your suitcase.\\nMove the bundle carefully to prevent it from unraveling. If you wound it correctly, though, the bundle should be snug enough to resist unraveling.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hold it in place.\", \"描述\": \"Use the interior straps of your suitcase to tie the bundle down.\\nIf the bundle remains loose inside the suitcase, it can move around and may start coming undone.\\nThe straps should be snug and secure over your bundle, but do not adjust them so tightly that they begin digging into the clothes. Excessively tight straps can cause wrinkles to form in your outer bundle layers.\\nIf your suitcase does not have straps, consider sewing some inside before using it. Alternatively, you can fill the sides of your suitcase with other objects to prevent the bundle from shifting as you carry the bag. This may include shoes and toiletries, among other items.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Open the bundle before wearing the clothes.\", \"描述\": \"When you arrive at your destination, you should open the bundle and shake out the clothes to remove any light wrinkles that may have formed.\\nUnwrap your bundle carefully. Start with the outermost garment and work layer by layer until you reach the garment nearest the core.\\nIdeally, you should hang each unpacked item of clothing after removing it from your bundle.\\nIt is easiest to unwrap and hang up the entire bundle at once, but you can remove individual garments from your bundle one at a time, if desired. Simply unwrap the bundle until you reach the garment you want and remove that layer. Then, re-wrap the outer layers around the remaining bundle in their previous order and tuck the bundle away again.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,693 |
How to Bundle Money
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1. Sorting the Money
1-1. Get coin sleeves and currency bands from your bank or an office store.
Ask the teller at your bank if they give out free sleeves and bands. Most banks do. Make sure you get sleeves and bands for each money denomination. If you don’t know how many you need, ask for five of each to start with.
If your bank does not give out money bundling supplies, most office stores and big-box stores carry them. Look for the individual denominations that you want, or buy a large pack of them all.
1-2. Separate the bills from the coins.
If your money is mixed together in a box or jar, dump it all out onto a table to sort it. Pick out the bills and make a stack. As you do this, let the coins sift into a pile of their own. Push the coins to one side of you and the bills to the other side.
If you have only coins or bills, it is still easiest to sort the money if it is laid out on a table.
1-3. Sort the money into piles by denomination.
Make a separate pile for each coin and bill. Sort one pile each of pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters. If you have a few other coins, like half dollars, separate those. You may have up to six piles of bills, which includes ones through hundreds.
Make sure your piles are far enough apart so they don’t get mixed up together.
The two main sorting styles are either pulling out a single denomination at a time and piling it up or sorting all of the piles at once as you grab random pieces of money.
2. Rolling Coins
2-1. Make piles of ten coins.
Begin to count each value of coin into stacks of ten. This gives you an idea of how much you have total. It also helps you fill the coin sleeves later because the coins are all counted. Be careful not to knock them over or you’ll make more work for yourself.
For example, you might end up with four stacks of ten pennies, one stack of ten nickels, six stacks of ten dimes, and three stacks of ten quarters.
Your coins probably won’t come out into exact stacks of ten, so pile the extras in a separate stack. Write down how many extras you have so you don’t have to count them again later.
2-2. Open flat coin sleeves so they form a tube.
Squeeze the edges of the coin sleeve and insert your thumb in one end of the sleeve. Press the edges until they touch each other and the sleeve forms into a square tube. Make a few more creases to round it out.
2-3. Block one end of the sleeve with your thumb.
The easiest way to insert coins into the sleeve is to insert your thumb to block one end of the tube. When you do this, it forms a stopping point for the coins when you drop them in the tube. If your thumb is too thick, use a different finger.
Since each coin is a different size, the tubes they go in are different sizes, as well. Use whichever finger fits best into the tube.
2-4. Slide the stacked coins into the tube.
If you picked up a penny sleeve, grab a stack of pennies and slowly slide them into the tube. Make sure they stack on top of each other properly. Count the designated amount into the tube.
Each coin roll is meant to hold a specific amount of a certain coin. Make sure you check the sleeves and count carefully as you go so you insert the right number of coins.
Roll 50 pennies for a value of 50 cents. Rolls 40 nickels for a value of two dollars. Roll 50 dimes for a value of five dollars. Roll 40 quarters for a value of $10.
3. Using Currency Bands
3-1. Divide the bills into counted stacks.
Check the currency bands that you have to find out how much money they each hold. Then pick up each denomination of bill one at a time and count the bills into stacks that match the currency bands you’re using.
For example, common one-dollar bands hold $25, so you’d count the ones into piles of 25. Twenty-dollar bills are bundled as $500, so you’d make piles of 25 bills.
Count each stack twice to make sure every stack has the right amount.
3-2. Put extra bills to the side in a stack separate from the rest.
Your money probably won't count out into even piles. Save the extra bills for the next time you bundle up your money. Make sure they don’t get mixed in with your counted stacks and mess them up.
3-3. Turn the bills in each pile to face the same direction.
If you’ll be turning the money in at a bank, it’s important that the bills are facing the same direction. Sort through the stacks and turn all of the bills so they face the same way.
When banks count the money, it makes a teller’s job easier if all of the bills are facing the same direction. Save yourself time at the bank by taking care of this before you get there.
3-4. Count each stack again before you band it.
With the stacks counted and facing the same way, count all of them again to check the number of bills. Sort out any pile that wasn’t counted right the first time. It’s easy to miscount, and it causes problems later if you don’t check.
If you didn’t check the currency bands when you sorted and counted earlier, check them now. Make sure all of the stacks have the right amount of money for the bands you’re using.
3-5. Wrap the currency bands around the stacks of money.
Start with the lowest denomination bill you have, and band each stack with the appropriate band. If the bands are adjustable to different sized bundles of money, make sure you tighten them around the stack of money.
Currency bands may have self-sticking glue, or they may require you to peel a piece of plastic off of the sticky part. Others may form a single loop so they fit an exact amount of money.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Sorting the Money\\n1-1. Get coin sleeves and currency bands from your bank or an office store.\\nAsk the teller at your bank if they give out free sleeves and bands. Most banks do. Make sure you get sleeves and bands for each money denomination. If you don’t know how many you need, ask for five of each to start with.\\nIf your bank does not give out money bundling supplies, most office stores and big-box stores carry them. Look for the individual denominations that you want, or buy a large pack of them all.\\n1-2. Separate the bills from the coins.\\nIf your money is mixed together in a box or jar, dump it all out onto a table to sort it. Pick out the bills and make a stack. As you do this, let the coins sift into a pile of their own. Push the coins to one side of you and the bills to the other side.\\nIf you have only coins or bills, it is still easiest to sort the money if it is laid out on a table.\\n1-3. Sort the money into piles by denomination.\\nMake a separate pile for each coin and bill. Sort one pile each of pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters. If you have a few other coins, like half dollars, separate those. You may have up to six piles of bills, which includes ones through hundreds.\\nMake sure your piles are far enough apart so they don’t get mixed up together.\\nThe two main sorting styles are either pulling out a single denomination at a time and piling it up or sorting all of the piles at once as you grab random pieces of money.\\n2. Rolling Coins\\n2-1. Make piles of ten coins.\\nBegin to count each value of coin into stacks of ten. This gives you an idea of how much you have total. It also helps you fill the coin sleeves later because the coins are all counted. Be careful not to knock them over or you’ll make more work for yourself.\\nFor example, you might end up with four stacks of ten pennies, one stack of ten nickels, six stacks of ten dimes, and three stacks of ten quarters.\\nYour coins probably won’t come out into exact stacks of ten, so pile the extras in a separate stack. Write down how many extras you have so you don’t have to count them again later.\\n2-2. Open flat coin sleeves so they form a tube.\\nSqueeze the edges of the coin sleeve and insert your thumb in one end of the sleeve. Press the edges until they touch each other and the sleeve forms into a square tube. Make a few more creases to round it out.\\n2-3. Block one end of the sleeve with your thumb.\\nThe easiest way to insert coins into the sleeve is to insert your thumb to block one end of the tube. When you do this, it forms a stopping point for the coins when you drop them in the tube. If your thumb is too thick, use a different finger.\\nSince each coin is a different size, the tubes they go in are different sizes, as well. Use whichever finger fits best into the tube.\\n2-4. Slide the stacked coins into the tube.\\nIf you picked up a penny sleeve, grab a stack of pennies and slowly slide them into the tube. Make sure they stack on top of each other properly. Count the designated amount into the tube.\\nEach coin roll is meant to hold a specific amount of a certain coin. Make sure you check the sleeves and count carefully as you go so you insert the right number of coins.\\nRoll 50 pennies for a value of 50 cents. Rolls 40 nickels for a value of two dollars. Roll 50 dimes for a value of five dollars. Roll 40 quarters for a value of $10.\\n3. Using Currency Bands\\n3-1. Divide the bills into counted stacks.\\nCheck the currency bands that you have to find out how much money they each hold. Then pick up each denomination of bill one at a time and count the bills into stacks that match the currency bands you’re using.\\nFor example, common one-dollar bands hold $25, so you’d count the ones into piles of 25. Twenty-dollar bills are bundled as $500, so you’d make piles of 25 bills.\\nCount each stack twice to make sure every stack has the right amount.\\n3-2. Put extra bills to the side in a stack separate from the rest.\\nYour money probably won't count out into even piles. Save the extra bills for the next time you bundle up your money. Make sure they don’t get mixed in with your counted stacks and mess them up.\\n3-3. Turn the bills in each pile to face the same direction.\\nIf you’ll be turning the money in at a bank, it’s important that the bills are facing the same direction. Sort through the stacks and turn all of the bills so they face the same way.\\nWhen banks count the money, it makes a teller’s job easier if all of the bills are facing the same direction. Save yourself time at the bank by taking care of this before you get there.\\n3-4. Count each stack again before you band it.\\nWith the stacks counted and facing the same way, count all of them again to check the number of bills. Sort out any pile that wasn’t counted right the first time. It’s easy to miscount, and it causes problems later if you don’t check.\\nIf you didn’t check the currency bands when you sorted and counted earlier, check them now. Make sure all of the stacks have the right amount of money for the bands you’re using.\\n3-5. Wrap the currency bands around the stacks of money.\\nStart with the lowest denomination bill you have, and band each stack with the appropriate band. If the bands are adjustable to different sized bundles of money, make sure you tighten them around the stack of money.\\nCurrency bands may have self-sticking glue, or they may require you to peel a piece of plastic off of the sticky part. Others may form a single loop so they fit an exact amount of money.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you save money in a jar or you take in a lot at a sale or other event, you may need to bundle it to take it to a bank. You may have a big jar full of coins and bills all mixed together, so sort those out first. Then sort all the money into piles of like denomination, such as ten-dollar bills, one-dollar bills, quarters, and dimes. When you get the money all sorted, you’ll put the coins into rolls and wrap the bills with currency bands.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sorting the Money\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get coin sleeves and currency bands from your bank or an office store.\", \"描述\": \"Ask the teller at your bank if they give out free sleeves and bands. Most banks do. Make sure you get sleeves and bands for each money denomination. If you don’t know how many you need, ask for five of each to start with.\\nIf your bank does not give out money bundling supplies, most office stores and big-box stores carry them. Look for the individual denominations that you want, or buy a large pack of them all.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Separate the bills from the coins.\", \"描述\": \"If your money is mixed together in a box or jar, dump it all out onto a table to sort it. Pick out the bills and make a stack. As you do this, let the coins sift into a pile of their own. Push the coins to one side of you and the bills to the other side.\\nIf you have only coins or bills, it is still easiest to sort the money if it is laid out on a table.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sort the money into piles by denomination.\", \"描述\": \"Make a separate pile for each coin and bill. Sort one pile each of pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters. If you have a few other coins, like half dollars, separate those. You may have up to six piles of bills, which includes ones through hundreds.\\nMake sure your piles are far enough apart so they don’t get mixed up together.\\nThe two main sorting styles are either pulling out a single denomination at a time and piling it up or sorting all of the piles at once as you grab random pieces of money.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Rolling Coins\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make piles of ten coins.\", \"描述\": \"Begin to count each value of coin into stacks of ten. This gives you an idea of how much you have total. It also helps you fill the coin sleeves later because the coins are all counted. Be careful not to knock them over or you’ll make more work for yourself.\\nFor example, you might end up with four stacks of ten pennies, one stack of ten nickels, six stacks of ten dimes, and three stacks of ten quarters.\\nYour coins probably won’t come out into exact stacks of ten, so pile the extras in a separate stack. Write down how many extras you have so you don’t have to count them again later.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Open flat coin sleeves so they form a tube.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze the edges of the coin sleeve and insert your thumb in one end of the sleeve. Press the edges until they touch each other and the sleeve forms into a square tube. Make a few more creases to round it out.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Block one end of the sleeve with your thumb.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to insert coins into the sleeve is to insert your thumb to block one end of the tube. When you do this, it forms a stopping point for the coins when you drop them in the tube. If your thumb is too thick, use a different finger.\\nSince each coin is a different size, the tubes they go in are different sizes, as well. Use whichever finger fits best into the tube.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slide the stacked coins into the tube.\", \"描述\": \"If you picked up a penny sleeve, grab a stack of pennies and slowly slide them into the tube. Make sure they stack on top of each other properly. Count the designated amount into the tube.\\nEach coin roll is meant to hold a specific amount of a certain coin. Make sure you check the sleeves and count carefully as you go so you insert the right number of coins.\\nRoll 50 pennies for a value of 50 cents. Rolls 40 nickels for a value of two dollars. Roll 50 dimes for a value of five dollars. Roll 40 quarters for a value of $10.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Currency Bands\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Divide the bills into counted stacks.\", \"描述\": \"Check the currency bands that you have to find out how much money they each hold. Then pick up each denomination of bill one at a time and count the bills into stacks that match the currency bands you’re using.\\nFor example, common one-dollar bands hold $25, so you’d count the ones into piles of 25. Twenty-dollar bills are bundled as $500, so you’d make piles of 25 bills.\\nCount each stack twice to make sure every stack has the right amount.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put extra bills to the side in a stack separate from the rest.\", \"描述\": \"Your money probably won't count out into even piles. Save the extra bills for the next time you bundle up your money. Make sure they don’t get mixed in with your counted stacks and mess them up.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn the bills in each pile to face the same direction.\", \"描述\": \"If you’ll be turning the money in at a bank, it’s important that the bills are facing the same direction. Sort through the stacks and turn all of the bills so they face the same way.\\nWhen banks count the money, it makes a teller’s job easier if all of the bills are facing the same direction. Save yourself time at the bank by taking care of this before you get there.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Count each stack again before you band it.\", \"描述\": \"With the stacks counted and facing the same way, count all of them again to check the number of bills. Sort out any pile that wasn’t counted right the first time. It’s easy to miscount, and it causes problems later if you don’t check.\\nIf you didn’t check the currency bands when you sorted and counted earlier, check them now. Make sure all of the stacks have the right amount of money for the bands you’re using.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wrap the currency bands around the stacks of money.\", \"描述\": \"Start with the lowest denomination bill you have, and band each stack with the appropriate band. If the bands are adjustable to different sized bundles of money, make sure you tighten them around the stack of money.\\nCurrency bands may have self-sticking glue, or they may require you to peel a piece of plastic off of the sticky part. Others may form a single loop so they fit an exact amount of money.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,694 |
How to Bungee Jump
|
1. Finding the Location
1-1. Check your body condition.
In general bungee jumping is very safe but certain conditions can make it potentially dangerous. These conditions include high blood pressure, a heart condition, dizziness, epilepsy, and injuries to the neck, back, spinal column, or legs. If you have any of these conditions you may want to speak to a doctor before planning for your bungee jumping experience.
Many harnesses are attached to your ankles and can exacerbate any ankle or knee problems you may be experiencing.
Neck and back injuries can make it difficult to bungee jump because of the pressure being put on them during your jump. Speak to your doctor.
1-2. Make sure you are old enough.
Some outfitters will allow jumpers as young as 14, others only allow those 16 years old and above. In many cases, if you are under 18 then your parent or guardian will have to accompany you to sign any waivers the outfitter provides.
1-3. Find a bungee jumping place.
Many bungee jumping locations are set in environments with beautiful scenery. Find the one that most appeals to you! There are many locations around the world and some of the most popular tourist attractions also offer bungee jumping experiences.
You can jump from bridges, cranes, platforms on buildings, towers, hot air balloons, helicopters or cable cars. Choose whichever location appeals most to you.
1-4. Check the safety and legality of the bungee outfitters.
Make sure this is a legal outfit and not some random guy with a rope on top of a bridge. Read reviews of your outfitter online or ask for references from the outfitter and see what other people have to say. Check if your outfitter is registered with the local board of tourism.
The BERSA (British Elastic Rope Sports Association) Code of Safe Practice is a safety guideline for operators. It covers three important topics: informed participation (meaning you must understand the risks involved), redundancy (meaning there are back-up systems in place so that if one component fails the whole system will not fail) and competence (meaning that all equipment and personnel must be of sufficient quality to competently perform their function). This code allows you to ensure that your operator is safe.
1-5. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
This also helps you check up on the outfitter and ensure they know what they are doing. You can ask about their equipment, staff training, operating standards, history and so on. This helps you determine how knowledgeable, friendly and safe they are as an outfitter.
1-6. Look into costs.
Look into costs in advance as well- expect to pay up to $100 or more. Many outfitters will charge a deposit when you book which could be around $50 or half of the total cost.
1-7. Book your jump.
You might want to book in advance to ensure that when you arrive you are able to jump. Some outfitters require advance booking because you have to take transportation to the location of the jump.
2. Preparing Yourself
2-1. Don't think about it too much.
The more you think, the more nervous you will get and the more likely you are to back out or talk yourself out of it. Everyone is nervous so do not worry about feeling that way!
Just because you are afraid of heights does not mean you won't jump. Bungee jumping is a very different experience and you may not feel the same while jumping- especially because of the adrenaline rush!
2-2. Dress correctly.
Wear comfortable clothes and tuck your shirt in so that it does not fly up when you decelerate, showing everyone your stomach. Similarly do not wear a skirt. Your clothes should not be restrictive or too loose. Shoes should be flat-soled and attach securely to your feet. Do not wear boots or shoes that come up high on your ankles or else they can interfere with connecting the ankle harnesses.
2-3. Tie up your hair.
If you have long hair you must tie it up so that it does not get stuck in any of the components or hit you in the face while you are jumping.
2-4. Understand your harness.
There are different types of harnesses used for bungee jumping but the most common are the body harness and leg harness. A leg harness will attach to both your ankles and you should have a backup harness (usually a sit harness such as what you might use for normal rock climbing).
A body harness will allow you to move around more easily and complete spins or flips more easily. If you are connected via a body harness you should have at least a sit harness and shoulder harness, or a full body harness.
2-5. Think about how you will jump.
There are many different styles of jumping but the best way to jump is the swallow dive. In this jump you take a nice leap off the platform with your arms stretched wide and soar like a bird towards the ground. By the time you reach the bottom you should be facing straight downward and the deceleration should be very smooth.
Other types of dives include the back dive, railing jump (similar to swallow except you are jumping off a railing on some bridges), bat drop (where you are hanging upside down on the edge of the platform before jumping and then simply drop), elevator (drop feet first but can be very dangerous and break your ankles) and tandem (jumping with two people at one time).
2-6. Watch others jumping.
Take some time to relax and watch other people jump before starting your experience. This can help you ease your mind and nerves.
2-7. Shave your legs.
If you are using a leg harness, then they will have to lift your pants to strap it on. If the sight of your unshaven legs embarrasses you, be sure to shave prior to jumping.
3. Jumping Off
3-1. Sign in with your outfitter.
You will pay the balance for your jump if you have not already and sign a few forms and waivers. Although bungee jumping is very safe, they will want to make sure you understand the potential risks. If you have any questions about the waiver, do not hesitate to ask a crew member.
3-2. Be prepared to be weighed.
They will weigh you to make sure they are using the correct equipment for you body weight and to make sure you are not over the weight limit of the outfitter.
3-3. Go to the top of the bungee bridge.
When you get to the top of the bungee, there will be instructors up there who will prep you. If you can make it to the top, then you should be fine because this is one of the scariest parts!
3-4. Listen to your instructors.
Listen to what they have to say, as it will make your jump more enjoyable. Also, don't be afraid to ask questions- that's what they are there for. The instructors will put padding around your ankles and then attach big elastic bands around them, which will in turn be attached to the actual bungee cord!
3-5. Understand that fear is natural.
Fear is your body's way of protecting itself as self-defense. Try to channel your thoughts and convince your mind that you are not inflicting harm on yourself. Things will move fast once you are strapped up, so just let things happen.
Don't look down before jumping! You will have plenty of time to admire the scenery while jumping. Looking down before you jump might make you change your mind.
3-6. Jump when a staff member yells 'Go!'
It's an incredible feeling falling through the air at that speed! Enjoy the ride, and feel free to scream your head off! At the end of the drop you should decelerate smoothly and it will actually feel quite peaceful.
After the jump, a guy in a boat might come and unhook you from the cords or they will lift you back up to the bridge or wherever you jumped from.
3-7. Brag about it!
You just went bungee jumping- you are instantly super-cool!
Tips
If it your first time don't try anything fancy...trust me.
Remove all valuables from your pockets before jumping.
Don't chew gum or any food!
Warnings
People who have a history of anxiety attacks may want to reconsider.
Don't bungee jump if you have really bad knees or hips. It will make them hurt.
Make sure you have all your safety gear on before you even think of jumping.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding the Location\\n1-1. Check your body condition.\\nIn general bungee jumping is very safe but certain conditions can make it potentially dangerous. These conditions include high blood pressure, a heart condition, dizziness, epilepsy, and injuries to the neck, back, spinal column, or legs. If you have any of these conditions you may want to speak to a doctor before planning for your bungee jumping experience.\\nMany harnesses are attached to your ankles and can exacerbate any ankle or knee problems you may be experiencing.\\nNeck and back injuries can make it difficult to bungee jump because of the pressure being put on them during your jump. Speak to your doctor.\\n1-2. Make sure you are old enough.\\nSome outfitters will allow jumpers as young as 14, others only allow those 16 years old and above. In many cases, if you are under 18 then your parent or guardian will have to accompany you to sign any waivers the outfitter provides.\\n1-3. Find a bungee jumping place.\\nMany bungee jumping locations are set in environments with beautiful scenery. Find the one that most appeals to you! There are many locations around the world and some of the most popular tourist attractions also offer bungee jumping experiences.\\nYou can jump from bridges, cranes, platforms on buildings, towers, hot air balloons, helicopters or cable cars. Choose whichever location appeals most to you.\\n1-4. Check the safety and legality of the bungee outfitters.\\nMake sure this is a legal outfit and not some random guy with a rope on top of a bridge. Read reviews of your outfitter online or ask for references from the outfitter and see what other people have to say. Check if your outfitter is registered with the local board of tourism.\\nThe BERSA (British Elastic Rope Sports Association) Code of Safe Practice is a safety guideline for operators. It covers three important topics: informed participation (meaning you must understand the risks involved), redundancy (meaning there are back-up systems in place so that if one component fails the whole system will not fail) and competence (meaning that all equipment and personnel must be of sufficient quality to competently perform their function). This code allows you to ensure that your operator is safe.\\n1-5. Don't be afraid to ask questions.\\nThis also helps you check up on the outfitter and ensure they know what they are doing. You can ask about their equipment, staff training, operating standards, history and so on. This helps you determine how knowledgeable, friendly and safe they are as an outfitter.\\n1-6. Look into costs.\\nLook into costs in advance as well- expect to pay up to $100 or more. Many outfitters will charge a deposit when you book which could be around $50 or half of the total cost.\\n1-7. Book your jump.\\nYou might want to book in advance to ensure that when you arrive you are able to jump. Some outfitters require advance booking because you have to take transportation to the location of the jump.\\n2. Preparing Yourself\\n2-1. Don't think about it too much.\\nThe more you think, the more nervous you will get and the more likely you are to back out or talk yourself out of it. Everyone is nervous so do not worry about feeling that way!\\nJust because you are afraid of heights does not mean you won't jump. Bungee jumping is a very different experience and you may not feel the same while jumping- especially because of the adrenaline rush!\\n2-2. Dress correctly.\\nWear comfortable clothes and tuck your shirt in so that it does not fly up when you decelerate, showing everyone your stomach. Similarly do not wear a skirt. Your clothes should not be restrictive or too loose. Shoes should be flat-soled and attach securely to your feet. Do not wear boots or shoes that come up high on your ankles or else they can interfere with connecting the ankle harnesses.\\n2-3. Tie up your hair.\\nIf you have long hair you must tie it up so that it does not get stuck in any of the components or hit you in the face while you are jumping.\\n2-4. Understand your harness.\\nThere are different types of harnesses used for bungee jumping but the most common are the body harness and leg harness. A leg harness will attach to both your ankles and you should have a backup harness (usually a sit harness such as what you might use for normal rock climbing).\\nA body harness will allow you to move around more easily and complete spins or flips more easily. If you are connected via a body harness you should have at least a sit harness and shoulder harness, or a full body harness.\\n2-5. Think about how you will jump.\\nThere are many different styles of jumping but the best way to jump is the swallow dive. In this jump you take a nice leap off the platform with your arms stretched wide and soar like a bird towards the ground. By the time you reach the bottom you should be facing straight downward and the deceleration should be very smooth.\\nOther types of dives include the back dive, railing jump (similar to swallow except you are jumping off a railing on some bridges), bat drop (where you are hanging upside down on the edge of the platform before jumping and then simply drop), elevator (drop feet first but can be very dangerous and break your ankles) and tandem (jumping with two people at one time).\\n2-6. Watch others jumping.\\nTake some time to relax and watch other people jump before starting your experience. This can help you ease your mind and nerves.\\n2-7. Shave your legs.\\nIf you are using a leg harness, then they will have to lift your pants to strap it on. If the sight of your unshaven legs embarrasses you, be sure to shave prior to jumping.\\n3. Jumping Off\\n3-1. Sign in with your outfitter.\\nYou will pay the balance for your jump if you have not already and sign a few forms and waivers. Although bungee jumping is very safe, they will want to make sure you understand the potential risks. If you have any questions about the waiver, do not hesitate to ask a crew member.\\n3-2. Be prepared to be weighed.\\nThey will weigh you to make sure they are using the correct equipment for you body weight and to make sure you are not over the weight limit of the outfitter.\\n3-3. Go to the top of the bungee bridge.\\nWhen you get to the top of the bungee, there will be instructors up there who will prep you. If you can make it to the top, then you should be fine because this is one of the scariest parts!\\n3-4. Listen to your instructors.\\nListen to what they have to say, as it will make your jump more enjoyable. Also, don't be afraid to ask questions- that's what they are there for. The instructors will put padding around your ankles and then attach big elastic bands around them, which will in turn be attached to the actual bungee cord!\\n3-5. Understand that fear is natural.\\nFear is your body's way of protecting itself as self-defense. Try to channel your thoughts and convince your mind that you are not inflicting harm on yourself. Things will move fast once you are strapped up, so just let things happen.\\nDon't look down before jumping! You will have plenty of time to admire the scenery while jumping. Looking down before you jump might make you change your mind.\\n3-6. Jump when a staff member yells 'Go!'\\nIt's an incredible feeling falling through the air at that speed! Enjoy the ride, and feel free to scream your head off! At the end of the drop you should decelerate smoothly and it will actually feel quite peaceful.\\nAfter the jump, a guy in a boat might come and unhook you from the cords or they will lift you back up to the bridge or wherever you jumped from.\\n3-7. Brag about it!\\nYou just went bungee jumping- you are instantly super-cool!\\nTips\\nIf it your first time don't try anything fancy...trust me.\\nRemove all valuables from your pockets before jumping.\\nDon't chew gum or any food!\\nWarnings\\nPeople who have a history of anxiety attacks may want to reconsider.\\nDon't bungee jump if you have really bad knees or hips. It will make them hurt.\\nMake sure you have all your safety gear on before you even think of jumping.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Ever hear people say, \\\"If everyone else jumped off a bridge, would you?\\\" Well if you would like to answer yes to that question, then bungee jumping is the answer! Bungee jumping can be an incredible experience and it is important to prepare yourself.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding the Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Check your body condition.\", \"描述\": \"In general bungee jumping is very safe but certain conditions can make it potentially dangerous. These conditions include high blood pressure, a heart condition, dizziness, epilepsy, and injuries to the neck, back, spinal column, or legs. If you have any of these conditions you may want to speak to a doctor before planning for your bungee jumping experience.\\nMany harnesses are attached to your ankles and can exacerbate any ankle or knee problems you may be experiencing.\\nNeck and back injuries can make it difficult to bungee jump because of the pressure being put on them during your jump. Speak to your doctor.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make sure you are old enough.\", \"描述\": \"Some outfitters will allow jumpers as young as 14, others only allow those 16 years old and above. In many cases, if you are under 18 then your parent or guardian will have to accompany you to sign any waivers the outfitter provides.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find a bungee jumping place.\", \"描述\": \"Many bungee jumping locations are set in environments with beautiful scenery. Find the one that most appeals to you! There are many locations around the world and some of the most popular tourist attractions also offer bungee jumping experiences.\\nYou can jump from bridges, cranes, platforms on buildings, towers, hot air balloons, helicopters or cable cars. Choose whichever location appeals most to you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Check the safety and legality of the bungee outfitters.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure this is a legal outfit and not some random guy with a rope on top of a bridge. Read reviews of your outfitter online or ask for references from the outfitter and see what other people have to say. Check if your outfitter is registered with the local board of tourism.\\nThe BERSA (British Elastic Rope Sports Association) Code of Safe Practice is a safety guideline for operators. It covers three important topics: informed participation (meaning you must understand the risks involved), redundancy (meaning there are back-up systems in place so that if one component fails the whole system will not fail) and competence (meaning that all equipment and personnel must be of sufficient quality to competently perform their function). This code allows you to ensure that your operator is safe.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Don't be afraid to ask questions.\", \"描述\": \"This also helps you check up on the outfitter and ensure they know what they are doing. You can ask about their equipment, staff training, operating standards, history and so on. This helps you determine how knowledgeable, friendly and safe they are as an outfitter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Look into costs.\", \"描述\": \"Look into costs in advance as well- expect to pay up to $100 or more. Many outfitters will charge a deposit when you book which could be around $50 or half of the total cost.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Book your jump.\", \"描述\": \"You might want to book in advance to ensure that when you arrive you are able to jump. Some outfitters require advance booking because you have to take transportation to the location of the jump.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing Yourself\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don't think about it too much.\", \"描述\": \"The more you think, the more nervous you will get and the more likely you are to back out or talk yourself out of it. Everyone is nervous so do not worry about feeling that way!\\nJust because you are afraid of heights does not mean you won't jump. Bungee jumping is a very different experience and you may not feel the same while jumping- especially because of the adrenaline rush!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dress correctly.\", \"描述\": \"Wear comfortable clothes and tuck your shirt in so that it does not fly up when you decelerate, showing everyone your stomach. Similarly do not wear a skirt. Your clothes should not be restrictive or too loose. Shoes should be flat-soled and attach securely to your feet. Do not wear boots or shoes that come up high on your ankles or else they can interfere with connecting the ankle harnesses.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tie up your hair.\", \"描述\": \"If you have long hair you must tie it up so that it does not get stuck in any of the components or hit you in the face while you are jumping.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Understand your harness.\", \"描述\": \"There are different types of harnesses used for bungee jumping but the most common are the body harness and leg harness. A leg harness will attach to both your ankles and you should have a backup harness (usually a sit harness such as what you might use for normal rock climbing).\\nA body harness will allow you to move around more easily and complete spins or flips more easily. If you are connected via a body harness you should have at least a sit harness and shoulder harness, or a full body harness.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Think about how you will jump.\", \"描述\": \"There are many different styles of jumping but the best way to jump is the swallow dive. In this jump you take a nice leap off the platform with your arms stretched wide and soar like a bird towards the ground. By the time you reach the bottom you should be facing straight downward and the deceleration should be very smooth.\\nOther types of dives include the back dive, railing jump (similar to swallow except you are jumping off a railing on some bridges), bat drop (where you are hanging upside down on the edge of the platform before jumping and then simply drop), elevator (drop feet first but can be very dangerous and break your ankles) and tandem (jumping with two people at one time).\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Watch others jumping.\", \"描述\": \"Take some time to relax and watch other people jump before starting your experience. This can help you ease your mind and nerves.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Shave your legs.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using a leg harness, then they will have to lift your pants to strap it on. If the sight of your unshaven legs embarrasses you, be sure to shave prior to jumping.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Jumping Off\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sign in with your outfitter.\", \"描述\": \"You will pay the balance for your jump if you have not already and sign a few forms and waivers. Although bungee jumping is very safe, they will want to make sure you understand the potential risks. If you have any questions about the waiver, do not hesitate to ask a crew member.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be prepared to be weighed.\", \"描述\": \"They will weigh you to make sure they are using the correct equipment for you body weight and to make sure you are not over the weight limit of the outfitter.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Go to the top of the bungee bridge.\", \"描述\": \"When you get to the top of the bungee, there will be instructors up there who will prep you. If you can make it to the top, then you should be fine because this is one of the scariest parts!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Listen to your instructors.\", \"描述\": \"Listen to what they have to say, as it will make your jump more enjoyable. Also, don't be afraid to ask questions- that's what they are there for. The instructors will put padding around your ankles and then attach big elastic bands around them, which will in turn be attached to the actual bungee cord!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Understand that fear is natural.\", \"描述\": \"Fear is your body's way of protecting itself as self-defense. Try to channel your thoughts and convince your mind that you are not inflicting harm on yourself. Things will move fast once you are strapped up, so just let things happen.\\nDon't look down before jumping! You will have plenty of time to admire the scenery while jumping. Looking down before you jump might make you change your mind.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Jump when a staff member yells 'Go!'\", \"描述\": \"It's an incredible feeling falling through the air at that speed! Enjoy the ride, and feel free to scream your head off! At the end of the drop you should decelerate smoothly and it will actually feel quite peaceful.\\nAfter the jump, a guy in a boat might come and unhook you from the cords or they will lift you back up to the bridge or wherever you jumped from.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Brag about it!\", \"描述\": \"You just went bungee jumping- you are instantly super-cool!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If it your first time don't try anything fancy...trust me.\\n\", \"Remove all valuables from your pockets before jumping.\\n\", \"Don't chew gum or any food!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"People who have a history of anxiety attacks may want to reconsider.\\n\", \"Don't bungee jump if you have really bad knees or hips. It will make them hurt.\\n\", \"Make sure you have all your safety gear on before you even think of jumping.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
|
7,695 |
How to Bunion Tape
|
1. Preparing Non-Elastic Tape
1-1. Choose traditional sports tape for more rigid support.
A conventional sports tape provides rigid structure to your joints when applied correctly. So if you’re more interested in toe support than the flexibility of wearing the tape for days at a time, select regular sports tape over kinesiology tape.
1-2. Buy non-elastic zinc oxide sports tape.
Visit a drugstore or sporting goods store and buy adhesive sports tape that’s 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick. It should be a waterproof zinc oxide tape that doesn’t have any stretch to it.
Look for tape with a grid printed on the back for easier measuring and cutting.
1-3. Measure and cut four arch strips.
Unroll some of the tape and wrap it all the way around the arch of your foot, perpendicular to your toes. Mark the tape about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) past where it rounds the edge of your foot. Cut the tape at this mark, and then cut three more strips that are the same length.
1-4. Measure and cut two strips of tape for your toe.
Unroll more tape and wrap it around your big toe this time. Mark the point where the tape overlaps by about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and then cut the tape at that spot. Cut a second piece of tape that’s the same length.
1-5. Trim the width of the toe strips to fit your toe.
If the thickness of the tape you bought causes the edge of the toe strips to extend beyond the tip of your toe, trim the width back. Leave about a centimeter of your big toe peeking out the top of the strip when it’s wrapped. This will prevent big gaps from forming along the edge of the tape.
1-6. Measure and cut three edge strips.
Unroll some tape and hold it along the inner edge of your foot. Hold the end in line with the bottom of your big toenail, and pull the tape back to about where your ankle is. Mark the tape there and cut it, then cut two more strips the same length.
2. Applying Non-Elastic Tape
2-1. Stand or spread your toes as you tape.
The tape should be applied to your foot when it’s spread out. You can either stand and bend over to tape your foot, or sit and spread your toes while you’re taping.
2-2. Apply an arch strip to the middle of your foot.
Hold the sticky side of the tape up toward you. Pulling the tape taut, step on the middle of the strip with the arch of your foot. Wrap the edges up around the middle of your foot and press the tape into your skin.
These anchor strips should adhere firmly to your foot, but they should not be overly tight.
2-3. Wrap the second arch strip slightly offset from the first.
Repeat the process of stepping on the second arch strip and wrapping the ends up over your foot. But this time, offset the tape a little toward your toes. Most of this second strip should still overlap the first, but taping about a centimeter of the second strip directly to your skin will create a stronger anchor.
2-4. Wrap one toe strip around your big toe.
Place one end of the tape between your big toe and your second toe, then wrap the tape around your big toe. It doesn’t matter which direction you go, just try to eliminate any gaps in the tape.
2-5. Pull your toe out into a bunion-correcting position.
To change the current angle of your big toe, place one finger between your big toe and second toe. Push the big toe out so that it’s parallel with the inner edge of your foot. Hold it there as you tape. This is the position you want to train your toe back into with the tape.
2-6. Connect the anchors with an edge strip.
Take one of the strips that goes along the inner edge of your foot. Place one end of the tape on top of the toe strip and press it firmly to adhere the strips together. Pull the rest of the strip straight back along the edge of your foot until the other end attaches just below your ankle bone.
2-7. Apply the other two edge strips slightly offset from the first.
Add another edge strip, this one overlapping the first, but with about a centimeter of extra tape hanging over the top. Do the same with the third edge strip, but go the other way. Have the offset go down under the edge of your foot slightly.
2-8. Add the rest of the strips as reinforcement.
Wrap the two arch strips directly above where the first two were. Do the same thing with the second toe strip: place it directly over the first one to tape down the ends of the edge strips.
2-9. Retape your foot every one to two days.
The rigid zinc oxide tape probably won’t stand up to more than a day or two of being walked on and showered in. Change the tape every day or every other day, and talk to your doctor if your bunion isn’t improving after two or three months.
3. Preparing Kinesiology Tape
3-1. Choose kinesiology tape to allow more freedom of movement.
Kinesiology tape is your most flexible option for taping your foot, so it’s a good choice if you still want full freedom of movement. It also stays adhered to your skin longer, so you won’t have to rewrap as often.
3-2. Purchase 2-inch (5 cm) kinesiology tape.
Visit a drugstore or sporting goods store for 2-inch (5 cm) flexible kinesio tape. This tape will be stretchy and comes in a variety of colors. It also typically has a grid on the back for easy measuring and cutting.
3-3. Measure and cut two strips longer than your foot.
Unroll some tape and line it up with your foot. The piece that you cut off should be longer than your foot by about 2 inches (5 cm). Then cut it in half lengthwise. You should end up with two long strips of tape that are each 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.
3-4. Measure and cut two strips to wrap over the toe joint.
Hold some tape over the joint where your big toe connects to your foot. Cut off enough tape that it can wrap a couple inches over your foot and a couple inches underneath. Then cut a second piece that’s the same length to create two short pieces that are each 2 inches (5 cm) wide.
3-5. Round the corners of the tape.
Use scissors to slightly round off the corners of the tape so that they don’t get caught on anything, especially any socks or shoes that you wear for the next few days. Do this to all the corners of all the pieces you’ve cut.
4. Applying Kinesiology Tape
4-1. Wrap a long piece over the back of your heel.
Unpeel a little bit of the paper backing from one of the long pieces. Place the unpeeled end about 1 inch (2.5 cm) past your heel on the outer edge of your foot. Unpeel more of the tape as you pull it around your heel and toward the inner edge of your foot. Try not to stretch the tape. Press down on it to adhere it to your arch. Half of the tape should not be applied yet.
4-2. Pull the tape forward to wrap around your toe.
Pull the unstuck portion of tape tightly from the middle to the inner edge of the foot, using 80% of the stretch. Then loosen the tape as you pull the tape around the tip of your big toe and tuck the end in between your first two toes.
80% stretch will feel like it’s pulled almost as tight as it will go. Try holding the tape out from your foot, stretching it as much as possible, and then backing off just a little bit.
4-3. Rub the tape to help adhere it to your skin.
Rub the tape with your fingers all along the strip you just applied to press down the edges. This will also create heat that helps the tape adhere to your skin better.
4-4. Repeat the wrap with the second long strip.
Wrap the second long strip around your foot, placing the end of the second piece just slightly above the end of the first on your heel. There should be a little bit of overlap between these pieces. Pull it forward around your toe and rub the tape again.
4-5. Wrap the short pieces over the toe joint.
Place one short piece across the joint that connects your big toe to your foot. Have a couple of inches (5 cm) go on top of your foot and a couple go under, right along the ball of your foot. Repeat this with the second short piece, overlapping this one, but offsetting it slightly behind the first.
Use 80% stretch as you apply these.
4-6. Replace the tape every one to three days.
You can leave the tape on for up to three days, or retape it before then if it starts to come loose. Talk to your doctor if you have severe bunion pain, or if taping does not correct your bunion after a few months.
If you have any rash or irritation around the tape, you may be having a reaction. Talk to your doctor about using a non-adhesive bunion treatment.
If you have a latex allergy, you should look for a non-latex tape.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing Non-Elastic Tape\\n1-1. Choose traditional sports tape for more rigid support.\\nA conventional sports tape provides rigid structure to your joints when applied correctly. So if you’re more interested in toe support than the flexibility of wearing the tape for days at a time, select regular sports tape over kinesiology tape.\\n1-2. Buy non-elastic zinc oxide sports tape.\\nVisit a drugstore or sporting goods store and buy adhesive sports tape that’s 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick. It should be a waterproof zinc oxide tape that doesn’t have any stretch to it.\\nLook for tape with a grid printed on the back for easier measuring and cutting.\\n1-3. Measure and cut four arch strips.\\nUnroll some of the tape and wrap it all the way around the arch of your foot, perpendicular to your toes. Mark the tape about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) past where it rounds the edge of your foot. Cut the tape at this mark, and then cut three more strips that are the same length.\\n1-4. Measure and cut two strips of tape for your toe.\\nUnroll more tape and wrap it around your big toe this time. Mark the point where the tape overlaps by about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and then cut the tape at that spot. Cut a second piece of tape that’s the same length.\\n1-5. Trim the width of the toe strips to fit your toe.\\nIf the thickness of the tape you bought causes the edge of the toe strips to extend beyond the tip of your toe, trim the width back. Leave about a centimeter of your big toe peeking out the top of the strip when it’s wrapped. This will prevent big gaps from forming along the edge of the tape.\\n1-6. Measure and cut three edge strips.\\nUnroll some tape and hold it along the inner edge of your foot. Hold the end in line with the bottom of your big toenail, and pull the tape back to about where your ankle is. Mark the tape there and cut it, then cut two more strips the same length.\\n2. Applying Non-Elastic Tape\\n2-1. Stand or spread your toes as you tape.\\nThe tape should be applied to your foot when it’s spread out. You can either stand and bend over to tape your foot, or sit and spread your toes while you’re taping.\\n2-2. Apply an arch strip to the middle of your foot.\\nHold the sticky side of the tape up toward you. Pulling the tape taut, step on the middle of the strip with the arch of your foot. Wrap the edges up around the middle of your foot and press the tape into your skin.\\nThese anchor strips should adhere firmly to your foot, but they should not be overly tight.\\n2-3. Wrap the second arch strip slightly offset from the first.\\nRepeat the process of stepping on the second arch strip and wrapping the ends up over your foot. But this time, offset the tape a little toward your toes. Most of this second strip should still overlap the first, but taping about a centimeter of the second strip directly to your skin will create a stronger anchor.\\n2-4. Wrap one toe strip around your big toe.\\nPlace one end of the tape between your big toe and your second toe, then wrap the tape around your big toe. It doesn’t matter which direction you go, just try to eliminate any gaps in the tape.\\n2-5. Pull your toe out into a bunion-correcting position.\\nTo change the current angle of your big toe, place one finger between your big toe and second toe. Push the big toe out so that it’s parallel with the inner edge of your foot. Hold it there as you tape. This is the position you want to train your toe back into with the tape.\\n2-6. Connect the anchors with an edge strip.\\nTake one of the strips that goes along the inner edge of your foot. Place one end of the tape on top of the toe strip and press it firmly to adhere the strips together. Pull the rest of the strip straight back along the edge of your foot until the other end attaches just below your ankle bone.\\n2-7. Apply the other two edge strips slightly offset from the first.\\nAdd another edge strip, this one overlapping the first, but with about a centimeter of extra tape hanging over the top. Do the same with the third edge strip, but go the other way. Have the offset go down under the edge of your foot slightly.\\n2-8. Add the rest of the strips as reinforcement.\\nWrap the two arch strips directly above where the first two were. Do the same thing with the second toe strip: place it directly over the first one to tape down the ends of the edge strips.\\n2-9. Retape your foot every one to two days.\\nThe rigid zinc oxide tape probably won’t stand up to more than a day or two of being walked on and showered in. Change the tape every day or every other day, and talk to your doctor if your bunion isn’t improving after two or three months.\\n3. Preparing Kinesiology Tape\\n3-1. Choose kinesiology tape to allow more freedom of movement.\\nKinesiology tape is your most flexible option for taping your foot, so it’s a good choice if you still want full freedom of movement. It also stays adhered to your skin longer, so you won’t have to rewrap as often.\\n3-2. Purchase 2-inch (5 cm) kinesiology tape.\\nVisit a drugstore or sporting goods store for 2-inch (5 cm) flexible kinesio tape. This tape will be stretchy and comes in a variety of colors. It also typically has a grid on the back for easy measuring and cutting.\\n3-3. Measure and cut two strips longer than your foot.\\nUnroll some tape and line it up with your foot. The piece that you cut off should be longer than your foot by about 2 inches (5 cm). Then cut it in half lengthwise. You should end up with two long strips of tape that are each 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.\\n3-4. Measure and cut two strips to wrap over the toe joint.\\nHold some tape over the joint where your big toe connects to your foot. Cut off enough tape that it can wrap a couple inches over your foot and a couple inches underneath. Then cut a second piece that’s the same length to create two short pieces that are each 2 inches (5 cm) wide.\\n3-5. Round the corners of the tape.\\nUse scissors to slightly round off the corners of the tape so that they don’t get caught on anything, especially any socks or shoes that you wear for the next few days. Do this to all the corners of all the pieces you’ve cut.\\n4. Applying Kinesiology Tape\\n4-1. Wrap a long piece over the back of your heel.\\nUnpeel a little bit of the paper backing from one of the long pieces. Place the unpeeled end about 1 inch (2.5 cm) past your heel on the outer edge of your foot. Unpeel more of the tape as you pull it around your heel and toward the inner edge of your foot. Try not to stretch the tape. Press down on it to adhere it to your arch. Half of the tape should not be applied yet.\\n4-2. Pull the tape forward to wrap around your toe.\\nPull the unstuck portion of tape tightly from the middle to the inner edge of the foot, using 80% of the stretch. Then loosen the tape as you pull the tape around the tip of your big toe and tuck the end in between your first two toes.\\n80% stretch will feel like it’s pulled almost as tight as it will go. Try holding the tape out from your foot, stretching it as much as possible, and then backing off just a little bit.\\n4-3. Rub the tape to help adhere it to your skin.\\nRub the tape with your fingers all along the strip you just applied to press down the edges. This will also create heat that helps the tape adhere to your skin better.\\n4-4. Repeat the wrap with the second long strip.\\nWrap the second long strip around your foot, placing the end of the second piece just slightly above the end of the first on your heel. There should be a little bit of overlap between these pieces. Pull it forward around your toe and rub the tape again.\\n4-5. Wrap the short pieces over the toe joint.\\nPlace one short piece across the joint that connects your big toe to your foot. Have a couple of inches (5 cm) go on top of your foot and a couple go under, right along the ball of your foot. Repeat this with the second short piece, overlapping this one, but offsetting it slightly behind the first.\\nUse 80% stretch as you apply these.\\n4-6. Replace the tape every one to three days.\\nYou can leave the tape on for up to three days, or retape it before then if it starts to come loose. Talk to your doctor if you have severe bunion pain, or if taping does not correct your bunion after a few months.\\nIf you have any rash or irritation around the tape, you may be having a reaction. Talk to your doctor about using a non-adhesive bunion treatment.\\nIf you have a latex allergy, you should look for a non-latex tape.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bunions are caused when the bone in your big toe begins to tilt inward, rather than staying parallel with your other toes. This can be a painful condition, but taping your bunions not only provides relief, it also can help correct the problem. Learn the proper techniques for wrapping with conventional sports tape and kinesiology tape, and you may be able to treat a mild bunion without seeing a doctor.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing Non-Elastic Tape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose traditional sports tape for more rigid support.\", \"描述\": \"A conventional sports tape provides rigid structure to your joints when applied correctly. So if you’re more interested in toe support than the flexibility of wearing the tape for days at a time, select regular sports tape over kinesiology tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy non-elastic zinc oxide sports tape.\", \"描述\": \"Visit a drugstore or sporting goods store and buy adhesive sports tape that’s 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick. It should be a waterproof zinc oxide tape that doesn’t have any stretch to it.\\nLook for tape with a grid printed on the back for easier measuring and cutting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut four arch strips.\", \"描述\": \"Unroll some of the tape and wrap it all the way around the arch of your foot, perpendicular to your toes. Mark the tape about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) past where it rounds the edge of your foot. Cut the tape at this mark, and then cut three more strips that are the same length.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut two strips of tape for your toe.\", \"描述\": \"Unroll more tape and wrap it around your big toe this time. Mark the point where the tape overlaps by about 1 inch (2.5 cm), and then cut the tape at that spot. Cut a second piece of tape that’s the same length.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Trim the width of the toe strips to fit your toe.\", \"描述\": \"If the thickness of the tape you bought causes the edge of the toe strips to extend beyond the tip of your toe, trim the width back. Leave about a centimeter of your big toe peeking out the top of the strip when it’s wrapped. This will prevent big gaps from forming along the edge of the tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut three edge strips.\", \"描述\": \"Unroll some tape and hold it along the inner edge of your foot. Hold the end in line with the bottom of your big toenail, and pull the tape back to about where your ankle is. Mark the tape there and cut it, then cut two more strips the same length.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Applying Non-Elastic Tape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stand or spread your toes as you tape.\", \"描述\": \"The tape should be applied to your foot when it’s spread out. You can either stand and bend over to tape your foot, or sit and spread your toes while you’re taping.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply an arch strip to the middle of your foot.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the sticky side of the tape up toward you. Pulling the tape taut, step on the middle of the strip with the arch of your foot. Wrap the edges up around the middle of your foot and press the tape into your skin.\\nThese anchor strips should adhere firmly to your foot, but they should not be overly tight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap the second arch strip slightly offset from the first.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat the process of stepping on the second arch strip and wrapping the ends up over your foot. But this time, offset the tape a little toward your toes. Most of this second strip should still overlap the first, but taping about a centimeter of the second strip directly to your skin will create a stronger anchor.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wrap one toe strip around your big toe.\", \"描述\": \"Place one end of the tape between your big toe and your second toe, then wrap the tape around your big toe. It doesn’t matter which direction you go, just try to eliminate any gaps in the tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pull your toe out into a bunion-correcting position.\", \"描述\": \"To change the current angle of your big toe, place one finger between your big toe and second toe. Push the big toe out so that it’s parallel with the inner edge of your foot. Hold it there as you tape. This is the position you want to train your toe back into with the tape.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect the anchors with an edge strip.\", \"描述\": \"Take one of the strips that goes along the inner edge of your foot. Place one end of the tape on top of the toe strip and press it firmly to adhere the strips together. Pull the rest of the strip straight back along the edge of your foot until the other end attaches just below your ankle bone.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Apply the other two edge strips slightly offset from the first.\", \"描述\": \"Add another edge strip, this one overlapping the first, but with about a centimeter of extra tape hanging over the top. Do the same with the third edge strip, but go the other way. Have the offset go down under the edge of your foot slightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add the rest of the strips as reinforcement.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the two arch strips directly above where the first two were. Do the same thing with the second toe strip: place it directly over the first one to tape down the ends of the edge strips.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Retape your foot every one to two days.\", \"描述\": \"The rigid zinc oxide tape probably won’t stand up to more than a day or two of being walked on and showered in. Change the tape every day or every other day, and talk to your doctor if your bunion isn’t improving after two or three months.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preparing Kinesiology Tape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose kinesiology tape to allow more freedom of movement.\", \"描述\": \"Kinesiology tape is your most flexible option for taping your foot, so it’s a good choice if you still want full freedom of movement. It also stays adhered to your skin longer, so you won’t have to rewrap as often.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase 2-inch (5 cm) kinesiology tape.\", \"描述\": \"Visit a drugstore or sporting goods store for 2-inch (5 cm) flexible kinesio tape. This tape will be stretchy and comes in a variety of colors. It also typically has a grid on the back for easy measuring and cutting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut two strips longer than your foot.\", \"描述\": \"Unroll some tape and line it up with your foot. The piece that you cut off should be longer than your foot by about 2 inches (5 cm). Then cut it in half lengthwise. You should end up with two long strips of tape that are each 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut two strips to wrap over the toe joint.\", \"描述\": \"Hold some tape over the joint where your big toe connects to your foot. Cut off enough tape that it can wrap a couple inches over your foot and a couple inches underneath. Then cut a second piece that’s the same length to create two short pieces that are each 2 inches (5 cm) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Round the corners of the tape.\", \"描述\": \"Use scissors to slightly round off the corners of the tape so that they don’t get caught on anything, especially any socks or shoes that you wear for the next few days. Do this to all the corners of all the pieces you’ve cut.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Applying Kinesiology Tape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wrap a long piece over the back of your heel.\", \"描述\": \"Unpeel a little bit of the paper backing from one of the long pieces. Place the unpeeled end about 1 inch (2.5 cm) past your heel on the outer edge of your foot. Unpeel more of the tape as you pull it around your heel and toward the inner edge of your foot. Try not to stretch the tape. Press down on it to adhere it to your arch. Half of the tape should not be applied yet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pull the tape forward to wrap around your toe.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the unstuck portion of tape tightly from the middle to the inner edge of the foot, using 80% of the stretch. Then loosen the tape as you pull the tape around the tip of your big toe and tuck the end in between your first two toes.\\n80% stretch will feel like it’s pulled almost as tight as it will go. Try holding the tape out from your foot, stretching it as much as possible, and then backing off just a little bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rub the tape to help adhere it to your skin.\", \"描述\": \"Rub the tape with your fingers all along the strip you just applied to press down the edges. This will also create heat that helps the tape adhere to your skin better.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Repeat the wrap with the second long strip.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the second long strip around your foot, placing the end of the second piece just slightly above the end of the first on your heel. There should be a little bit of overlap between these pieces. Pull it forward around your toe and rub the tape again.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wrap the short pieces over the toe joint.\", \"描述\": \"Place one short piece across the joint that connects your big toe to your foot. Have a couple of inches (5 cm) go on top of your foot and a couple go under, right along the ball of your foot. Repeat this with the second short piece, overlapping this one, but offsetting it slightly behind the first.\\nUse 80% stretch as you apply these.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Replace the tape every one to three days.\", \"描述\": \"You can leave the tape on for up to three days, or retape it before then if it starts to come loose. Talk to your doctor if you have severe bunion pain, or if taping does not correct your bunion after a few months.\\nIf you have any rash or irritation around the tape, you may be having a reaction. Talk to your doctor about using a non-adhesive bunion treatment.\\nIf you have a latex allergy, you should look for a non-latex tape.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,696 |
How to Bunny Hop on a Bike
|
1. Mastering the Front Pull
1-1. Ride at a slow to medium speed and lean back slightly.
Stand up out of the bike seat while keeping your pedals parallel with the ground.
Keep your elbows and knees loose and slightly bent, and bend at the waist so that you are positioned above the bike seat rather than behind it.
When you stand up, position your head directly over the front wheel.
1-2. Sink your weight into the front wheel and then pull your handlebars upward with your arms.
Use the momentum you get from shifting your center of gravity back to explode straight upward.
While you are pulling up with your arms, push your feet into the pedals, applying an even amount of pressure to each one.
1-3. Lift the front wheel off the ground by pulling with your arms.
Once you've gotten the bike as high as you can by just leaning back, pull it up with your arms until the bike is standing up, and you're standing up with it.
Keep your pedals level through the whole maneuver.
1-4. Drop the wheel gently back down to the ground.
You haven't mastered the front pull until you can place the front tire down with carefully controlled motion, rather than just let it snap back to the ground.
2. Executing the Back Hop
2-1. Shift your weight forward.
Do this quickly, but not so quickly that you "throw" yourself forward and shake the bike.
2-2. Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.
Pull them up so that your feet are almost vertical.
2-3. Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.
Your feet will make a scooping motion backward. The pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.
2-4. Use your leg muscles to lift the back wheel up and off the ground.
Shrug your shoulders and then push or roll the handlebars forward as you do this.
2-5. Drop the back wheel gently back down to the ground.
Just like with the front pull, you haven’t perfected the back hop until you can delicately place the back wheel down, rather than drop it sharply to the ground.
3. Combining the Front Pull and Back Hop
3-1. Maneuver into a front pull to begin.
As you’re doing this, shove your mass into the ground through the back wheel. This will give the rear wheel a bit of "bounce" to help you take off when you move into the back hop.
Pull the front wheel up to maximum height before transitioning to the next part of the maneuver.
3-2. Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.
Once you’re front wheel is in the air, snap your heels upward so that your feet are almost vertical.
3-3. Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.
Point your toes and then push back with your feet, “scooping” backward. Use the push/pull motion to get the back wheel up (while the front is still in the air).
The pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.
3-4. Shrug your shoulders and push the handlebars forward.
You will do this at the same time as scooping back with your feet, creating a motion almost like a gear shifting.
Try to stay focused on technique rather than worrying about the speed you’re traveling as you bunny hop.
3-5. Level your bike in the air.
Squeeze your legs together while you are in mid-air to get a more defined looking bunny hop. Remembering to level the bike is an important habit to establish for when you eventually start bunny hopping onto higher surfaces.
3-6. Lower your rear wheel back down to the ground first.
It stabilizes your landing and makes controlling the bike easier immediately after landing. Only land with your front wheel first when you need to regain front wheel control and traction immediately, such as when you need to make a turn immediately after the hop.
Practice this in grass before you try it on pavement or out on the trail.
If you feel like you are about to start falling during a bunny hop, try to fall uphill and onto grass for a softer landing.
3-7. Practice bunny hopping over various obstacles.
Bunny hopping is a bike trick, but it’s also a very useful maneuver when it comes to avoiding or jumping over obstacles in your path when you’re on a ride.
Set up obstacles to practice bunny hopping over, starting at a height of about 6 inches and increasing the height as you get comfortable with each hop.
3-8. Experiment with bringing both tires up at the same time when hopping over obstacles.
This is an additional technique that involves jumping, just like you would on the ground, except during this you are one with your pedals.
Simply jump while twisting forward on the handlebars of the bike, but don't let your feet come off the pedals.
If you keep your feet on the pedals and jump, the back end will come up.
Then bring up the front end at the same time as the tires. You will be pulling up without pedaling.
Tips
When you first start practicing this trick, do it on grass instead of pavement until you get more comfortable with it.
Use a lighter, smaller bike when first learning this trick.
Try to push your feet down, so that your feet don't come off the pedals.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:26",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Mastering the Front Pull\\n1-1. Ride at a slow to medium speed and lean back slightly.\\nStand up out of the bike seat while keeping your pedals parallel with the ground.\\nKeep your elbows and knees loose and slightly bent, and bend at the waist so that you are positioned above the bike seat rather than behind it.\\nWhen you stand up, position your head directly over the front wheel.\\n1-2. Sink your weight into the front wheel and then pull your handlebars upward with your arms.\\nUse the momentum you get from shifting your center of gravity back to explode straight upward.\\nWhile you are pulling up with your arms, push your feet into the pedals, applying an even amount of pressure to each one.\\n1-3. Lift the front wheel off the ground by pulling with your arms.\\nOnce you've gotten the bike as high as you can by just leaning back, pull it up with your arms until the bike is standing up, and you're standing up with it.\\nKeep your pedals level through the whole maneuver.\\n1-4. Drop the wheel gently back down to the ground.\\nYou haven't mastered the front pull until you can place the front tire down with carefully controlled motion, rather than just let it snap back to the ground.\\n2. Executing the Back Hop\\n2-1. Shift your weight forward.\\nDo this quickly, but not so quickly that you \\\"throw\\\" yourself forward and shake the bike.\\n2-2. Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.\\nPull them up so that your feet are almost vertical.\\n2-3. Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.\\nYour feet will make a scooping motion backward. The pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.\\n2-4. Use your leg muscles to lift the back wheel up and off the ground.\\nShrug your shoulders and then push or roll the handlebars forward as you do this.\\n2-5. Drop the back wheel gently back down to the ground.\\nJust like with the front pull, you haven’t perfected the back hop until you can delicately place the back wheel down, rather than drop it sharply to the ground.\\n3. Combining the Front Pull and Back Hop\\n3-1. Maneuver into a front pull to begin.\\nAs you’re doing this, shove your mass into the ground through the back wheel. This will give the rear wheel a bit of \\\"bounce\\\" to help you take off when you move into the back hop.\\nPull the front wheel up to maximum height before transitioning to the next part of the maneuver.\\n3-2. Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.\\nOnce you’re front wheel is in the air, snap your heels upward so that your feet are almost vertical.\\n3-3. Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.\\nPoint your toes and then push back with your feet, “scooping” backward. Use the push/pull motion to get the back wheel up (while the front is still in the air).\\nThe pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.\\n3-4. Shrug your shoulders and push the handlebars forward.\\nYou will do this at the same time as scooping back with your feet, creating a motion almost like a gear shifting.\\nTry to stay focused on technique rather than worrying about the speed you’re traveling as you bunny hop.\\n3-5. Level your bike in the air.\\nSqueeze your legs together while you are in mid-air to get a more defined looking bunny hop. Remembering to level the bike is an important habit to establish for when you eventually start bunny hopping onto higher surfaces.\\n3-6. Lower your rear wheel back down to the ground first.\\nIt stabilizes your landing and makes controlling the bike easier immediately after landing. Only land with your front wheel first when you need to regain front wheel control and traction immediately, such as when you need to make a turn immediately after the hop.\\nPractice this in grass before you try it on pavement or out on the trail.\\nIf you feel like you are about to start falling during a bunny hop, try to fall uphill and onto grass for a softer landing.\\n3-7. Practice bunny hopping over various obstacles.\\nBunny hopping is a bike trick, but it’s also a very useful maneuver when it comes to avoiding or jumping over obstacles in your path when you’re on a ride.\\nSet up obstacles to practice bunny hopping over, starting at a height of about 6 inches and increasing the height as you get comfortable with each hop.\\n3-8. Experiment with bringing both tires up at the same time when hopping over obstacles.\\nThis is an additional technique that involves jumping, just like you would on the ground, except during this you are one with your pedals.\\nSimply jump while twisting forward on the handlebars of the bike, but don't let your feet come off the pedals.\\nIf you keep your feet on the pedals and jump, the back end will come up.\\nThen bring up the front end at the same time as the tires. You will be pulling up without pedaling.\\nTips\\nWhen you first start practicing this trick, do it on grass instead of pavement until you get more comfortable with it.\\nUse a lighter, smaller bike when first learning this trick.\\nTry to push your feet down, so that your feet don't come off the pedals.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A \\\"bunny hop\\\" is a bicycle trick that involves jumping both the front and back wheels off the ground at the same time. The trick will allow you to launch your bike into the air to avoid or jump over obstacles. The bunny hop is really a combination of two moves, the front pull and the back hop, which you must master individually before combining them to execute the bunny hop. With a little bit of practice, you'll be bunny hopping in no time!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mastering the Front Pull\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ride at a slow to medium speed and lean back slightly.\", \"描述\": \"Stand up out of the bike seat while keeping your pedals parallel with the ground.\\nKeep your elbows and knees loose and slightly bent, and bend at the waist so that you are positioned above the bike seat rather than behind it.\\nWhen you stand up, position your head directly over the front wheel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sink your weight into the front wheel and then pull your handlebars upward with your arms.\", \"描述\": \"Use the momentum you get from shifting your center of gravity back to explode straight upward.\\nWhile you are pulling up with your arms, push your feet into the pedals, applying an even amount of pressure to each one.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lift the front wheel off the ground by pulling with your arms.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've gotten the bike as high as you can by just leaning back, pull it up with your arms until the bike is standing up, and you're standing up with it.\\nKeep your pedals level through the whole maneuver.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drop the wheel gently back down to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"You haven't mastered the front pull until you can place the front tire down with carefully controlled motion, rather than just let it snap back to the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Executing the Back Hop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shift your weight forward.\", \"描述\": \"Do this quickly, but not so quickly that you \\\"throw\\\" yourself forward and shake the bike.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.\", \"描述\": \"Pull them up so that your feet are almost vertical.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.\", \"描述\": \"Your feet will make a scooping motion backward. The pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use your leg muscles to lift the back wheel up and off the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Shrug your shoulders and then push or roll the handlebars forward as you do this.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drop the back wheel gently back down to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Just like with the front pull, you haven’t perfected the back hop until you can delicately place the back wheel down, rather than drop it sharply to the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Combining the Front Pull and Back Hop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Maneuver into a front pull to begin.\", \"描述\": \"As you’re doing this, shove your mass into the ground through the back wheel. This will give the rear wheel a bit of \\\"bounce\\\" to help you take off when you move into the back hop.\\nPull the front wheel up to maximum height before transitioning to the next part of the maneuver.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Snap your heels up quickly and then pull the pedals up with your feet.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’re front wheel is in the air, snap your heels upward so that your feet are almost vertical.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Press back against the pedals as you push your legs up.\", \"描述\": \"Point your toes and then push back with your feet, “scooping” backward. Use the push/pull motion to get the back wheel up (while the front is still in the air).\\nThe pressure you apply to the pedals, with your feet in a horizontal position, will keep your feet on the bike as you pull the back end up with your leg muscles.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Shrug your shoulders and push the handlebars forward.\", \"描述\": \"You will do this at the same time as scooping back with your feet, creating a motion almost like a gear shifting.\\nTry to stay focused on technique rather than worrying about the speed you’re traveling as you bunny hop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Level your bike in the air.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze your legs together while you are in mid-air to get a more defined looking bunny hop. Remembering to level the bike is an important habit to establish for when you eventually start bunny hopping onto higher surfaces.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Lower your rear wheel back down to the ground first.\", \"描述\": \"It stabilizes your landing and makes controlling the bike easier immediately after landing. Only land with your front wheel first when you need to regain front wheel control and traction immediately, such as when you need to make a turn immediately after the hop.\\nPractice this in grass before you try it on pavement or out on the trail.\\nIf you feel like you are about to start falling during a bunny hop, try to fall uphill and onto grass for a softer landing.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Practice bunny hopping over various obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"Bunny hopping is a bike trick, but it’s also a very useful maneuver when it comes to avoiding or jumping over obstacles in your path when you’re on a ride.\\nSet up obstacles to practice bunny hopping over, starting at a height of about 6 inches and increasing the height as you get comfortable with each hop.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Experiment with bringing both tires up at the same time when hopping over obstacles.\", \"描述\": \"This is an additional technique that involves jumping, just like you would on the ground, except during this you are one with your pedals.\\nSimply jump while twisting forward on the handlebars of the bike, but don't let your feet come off the pedals.\\nIf you keep your feet on the pedals and jump, the back end will come up.\\nThen bring up the front end at the same time as the tires. You will be pulling up without pedaling.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When you first start practicing this trick, do it on grass instead of pavement until you get more comfortable with it.\\n\", \"Use a lighter, smaller bike when first learning this trick.\\n\", \"Try to push your feet down, so that your feet don't come off the pedals.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,697 |
How to Buoy an Anchor
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1. Deploying and Retrieving a Trip Line
1-1. Determine the length of your trip line.
Use a nautical chart, a depth finder, or another suitable instrument to find the water's depth at high tide. The length of your trip line needs to be at least equal to this depth.
You never know when you'll get tall waves because of rough conditions. Account for this by adding about 3 ft (.91 m) to your minimum length for the line.
Avoid allowing too much extra line in the water, as this can make it more likely to foul. Extra slack can be wrapped around the buoy's bottom.
If you'll only be anchored for a short time, use a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio for your line. For instance, if the depth where you are is 10 ft (3.0 m), you'd need to pay out 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) of chain.
If you'll be staying longer, use a 1:7 ratio. For example, if you'll be at the same spot with the 10 ft (3.0 m) depth but you'll be staying overnight, you'd need 70 ft (21 m) of chain.
1-2. Fasten the trip line to the anchor.
The cord of your trip line needs to be firmly attached to the crown of the anchor. Most anchors will have at least a hole in the fluke or a designated tie-on spot for trip lines.
If the hole on your anchor for your trip line is rough, you'll need a shackle so the line doesn't chafe and break.
If your buoy is not already attached, use a firm knot, like a large eye splice, to fasten it to the anchor-opposite end of the rope.
1-3. Spool out the trip line to prevent snags and tangles.
Gather the cord of the trip line in a coil so it's easier to manage. If necessary, pass the coil under and over the pulpit or rail to prevent it from snagging there. Separate the coil in half and set down the half farther away from the float.
1-4. Deploy the trip line.
Approach your anchorage point carefully. While keeping ahold of the half of the coil closest to the float, toss the float overboard to the anchorage point. Release the line as you do, so it completely streams into the water.
1-5. Follow the trip line with the anchor.
Take care during this process to avoid getting the trip line and anchor tangled. Lower the anchor as you would normally. Make sure to deploy the trip line before dropping anchor, as this will decrease the chances of tangling.
1-6. Retrieve the trip line and anchor.
Approach the anchor point with your boat. Snag and retrieve the buoy of your trip line with a boat hook. Retrieve the anchor as per usual – you'll only need to use the trip line if the anchor is stuck.
If your anchor doesn't budge, it's time to put your trip line to work. In many cases, simply pulling up on the trip line will capsize the anchor and free it.
Most anchors resist a single direction of travel. By adding slack to the anchor line or by pulling in the direction opposite anchor's resisted direction, you may pop stuck anchors free.
1-7. Maintain and stow your trip line.
Once the anchor's on board, it's time to remove the trip line from the crown. After using your trip line, you should rinse it well in clean water. Allow the wet line to air dry completely, then return it where it belongs in the anchor locker.
2. Making a Simple Trip Line
2-1. Purchase or make a buoy.
Even a cheap Styrofoam buoy from your local hardware store should work for a trip line anchor buoy. Serious boaters or those who frequent deep waters might benefit from sturdier buoys purchased from boat supply stores.
Make an upcycled buoy from a clean plastic jug. You can even paint the jug a bright color to make it easier to spot in the water.
2-2. Cut polypropylene cord for the buoy.
Not only will polypropylene line withstand harsh conditions better than most other kinds of cordage, it also floats. The length of your trip line should be about 3 ft (.91 m) longer than the highest tide in your sailing area.
Choose a bright color of polypropylene cord so you can spot your trip line better in unfavorable conditions.
After cutting the rope, prevent it from fraying at the cut end with glue or by passing a the flame of a lighter over the cut end to melt it.
2-3. Attach the buoy to the line with a large eye splice.
Large is the key word here. A large eye splice will make snagging your buoy a cinch with a boat hook. If you decide to use another kind of knot, make sure it's sturdy. Your trip line won't do you much good if the buoy floats away.
3. Using Trip Lines Safely
3-1. Write a label on your buoy.
Especially in crowded conditions, boaters desperate for moorage might take liberties with unmarked buoys. Send a clear message that your buoy is currently in use by writing “Trip line, don't pick up” in large letters, along with your boat's name.
3-2. Avoid using trip lines overnight.
In the dark, even the most colorful trip lines can be missed. This can tangle in a fellow boaters' propellers, causing trouble for you both. Especially if there's night traffic on the water, you may want to forego a trip line for overnight anchorages.
3-3. Prevent boats from damaging your anchor with a trip line.
Crowded harbors can be difficult places to maneuver. This can sometimes cause other boats to pass uncomfortably close to your anchor and its line. Improve visibility of your anchorage point for other boats with a trip line.
3-4. Use a trip line when anchoring in areas with a poor bottom.
Broken rock or large pieces of coral can trap your anchor stubbornly in cracks and crevices. If you've had your anchor stuck before in the area you're now anchoring, or if you're worried it might get stuck, deploy a trip line.
Warnings
Before you anchor your boat in an area, be sure there's plenty of distance between you and any other boats or other obstacles. Your boat will swing around while you're anchored, and you don't want to crash into anything.[20]
X
Expert Source
Nitzan LevySailing Instructor
Expert Interview. 24 April 2020.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Deploying and Retrieving a Trip Line\\n1-1. Determine the length of your trip line.\\nUse a nautical chart, a depth finder, or another suitable instrument to find the water's depth at high tide. The length of your trip line needs to be at least equal to this depth.\\nYou never know when you'll get tall waves because of rough conditions. Account for this by adding about 3 ft (.91 m) to your minimum length for the line.\\nAvoid allowing too much extra line in the water, as this can make it more likely to foul. Extra slack can be wrapped around the buoy's bottom.\\nIf you'll only be anchored for a short time, use a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio for your line. For instance, if the depth where you are is 10 ft (3.0 m), you'd need to pay out 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) of chain.\\nIf you'll be staying longer, use a 1:7 ratio. For example, if you'll be at the same spot with the 10 ft (3.0 m) depth but you'll be staying overnight, you'd need 70 ft (21 m) of chain.\\n1-2. Fasten the trip line to the anchor.\\nThe cord of your trip line needs to be firmly attached to the crown of the anchor. Most anchors will have at least a hole in the fluke or a designated tie-on spot for trip lines.\\nIf the hole on your anchor for your trip line is rough, you'll need a shackle so the line doesn't chafe and break.\\nIf your buoy is not already attached, use a firm knot, like a large eye splice, to fasten it to the anchor-opposite end of the rope.\\n1-3. Spool out the trip line to prevent snags and tangles.\\nGather the cord of the trip line in a coil so it's easier to manage. If necessary, pass the coil under and over the pulpit or rail to prevent it from snagging there. Separate the coil in half and set down the half farther away from the float.\\n1-4. Deploy the trip line.\\nApproach your anchorage point carefully. While keeping ahold of the half of the coil closest to the float, toss the float overboard to the anchorage point. Release the line as you do, so it completely streams into the water.\\n1-5. Follow the trip line with the anchor.\\nTake care during this process to avoid getting the trip line and anchor tangled. Lower the anchor as you would normally. Make sure to deploy the trip line before dropping anchor, as this will decrease the chances of tangling.\\n1-6. Retrieve the trip line and anchor.\\nApproach the anchor point with your boat. Snag and retrieve the buoy of your trip line with a boat hook. Retrieve the anchor as per usual – you'll only need to use the trip line if the anchor is stuck.\\nIf your anchor doesn't budge, it's time to put your trip line to work. In many cases, simply pulling up on the trip line will capsize the anchor and free it.\\nMost anchors resist a single direction of travel. By adding slack to the anchor line or by pulling in the direction opposite anchor's resisted direction, you may pop stuck anchors free.\\n1-7. Maintain and stow your trip line.\\nOnce the anchor's on board, it's time to remove the trip line from the crown. After using your trip line, you should rinse it well in clean water. Allow the wet line to air dry completely, then return it where it belongs in the anchor locker.\\n2. Making a Simple Trip Line\\n2-1. Purchase or make a buoy.\\nEven a cheap Styrofoam buoy from your local hardware store should work for a trip line anchor buoy. Serious boaters or those who frequent deep waters might benefit from sturdier buoys purchased from boat supply stores.\\nMake an upcycled buoy from a clean plastic jug. You can even paint the jug a bright color to make it easier to spot in the water.\\n2-2. Cut polypropylene cord for the buoy.\\nNot only will polypropylene line withstand harsh conditions better than most other kinds of cordage, it also floats. The length of your trip line should be about 3 ft (.91 m) longer than the highest tide in your sailing area.\\nChoose a bright color of polypropylene cord so you can spot your trip line better in unfavorable conditions.\\nAfter cutting the rope, prevent it from fraying at the cut end with glue or by passing a the flame of a lighter over the cut end to melt it.\\n2-3. Attach the buoy to the line with a large eye splice.\\nLarge is the key word here. A large eye splice will make snagging your buoy a cinch with a boat hook. If you decide to use another kind of knot, make sure it's sturdy. Your trip line won't do you much good if the buoy floats away.\\n3. Using Trip Lines Safely\\n3-1. Write a label on your buoy.\\nEspecially in crowded conditions, boaters desperate for moorage might take liberties with unmarked buoys. Send a clear message that your buoy is currently in use by writing “Trip line, don't pick up” in large letters, along with your boat's name.\\n3-2. Avoid using trip lines overnight.\\nIn the dark, even the most colorful trip lines can be missed. This can tangle in a fellow boaters' propellers, causing trouble for you both. Especially if there's night traffic on the water, you may want to forego a trip line for overnight anchorages.\\n3-3. Prevent boats from damaging your anchor with a trip line.\\nCrowded harbors can be difficult places to maneuver. This can sometimes cause other boats to pass uncomfortably close to your anchor and its line. Improve visibility of your anchorage point for other boats with a trip line.\\n3-4. Use a trip line when anchoring in areas with a poor bottom.\\nBroken rock or large pieces of coral can trap your anchor stubbornly in cracks and crevices. If you've had your anchor stuck before in the area you're now anchoring, or if you're worried it might get stuck, deploy a trip line.\\nWarnings\\nBefore you anchor your boat in an area, be sure there's plenty of distance between you and any other boats or other obstacles. Your boat will swing around while you're anchored, and you don't want to crash into anything.[20]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nNitzan LevySailing Instructor\\nExpert Interview. 24 April 2020.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"An anchor buoy is the common term for a trip line. Anchors can be expensive, but you can save yourself this cost with a homemade trip line. If you already have one, they're relatively easy to deploy and retrieve. Be sure to use your trip line safely to prevent unnecessary tangles or damage.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Deploying and Retrieving a Trip Line\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the length of your trip line.\", \"描述\": \"Use a nautical chart, a depth finder, or another suitable instrument to find the water's depth at high tide. The length of your trip line needs to be at least equal to this depth.\\nYou never know when you'll get tall waves because of rough conditions. Account for this by adding about 3 ft (.91 m) to your minimum length for the line.\\nAvoid allowing too much extra line in the water, as this can make it more likely to foul. Extra slack can be wrapped around the buoy's bottom.\\nIf you'll only be anchored for a short time, use a 1:3 or 1:4 ratio for your line. For instance, if the depth where you are is 10 ft (3.0 m), you'd need to pay out 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) of chain.\\nIf you'll be staying longer, use a 1:7 ratio. For example, if you'll be at the same spot with the 10 ft (3.0 m) depth but you'll be staying overnight, you'd need 70 ft (21 m) of chain.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the trip line to the anchor.\", \"描述\": \"The cord of your trip line needs to be firmly attached to the crown of the anchor. Most anchors will have at least a hole in the fluke or a designated tie-on spot for trip lines.\\nIf the hole on your anchor for your trip line is rough, you'll need a shackle so the line doesn't chafe and break.\\nIf your buoy is not already attached, use a firm knot, like a large eye splice, to fasten it to the anchor-opposite end of the rope.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spool out the trip line to prevent snags and tangles.\", \"描述\": \"Gather the cord of the trip line in a coil so it's easier to manage. If necessary, pass the coil under and over the pulpit or rail to prevent it from snagging there. Separate the coil in half and set down the half farther away from the float.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Deploy the trip line.\", \"描述\": \"Approach your anchorage point carefully. While keeping ahold of the half of the coil closest to the float, toss the float overboard to the anchorage point. Release the line as you do, so it completely streams into the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Follow the trip line with the anchor.\", \"描述\": \"Take care during this process to avoid getting the trip line and anchor tangled. Lower the anchor as you would normally. Make sure to deploy the trip line before dropping anchor, as this will decrease the chances of tangling.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Retrieve the trip line and anchor.\", \"描述\": \"Approach the anchor point with your boat. Snag and retrieve the buoy of your trip line with a boat hook. Retrieve the anchor as per usual – you'll only need to use the trip line if the anchor is stuck.\\nIf your anchor doesn't budge, it's time to put your trip line to work. In many cases, simply pulling up on the trip line will capsize the anchor and free it.\\nMost anchors resist a single direction of travel. By adding slack to the anchor line or by pulling in the direction opposite anchor's resisted direction, you may pop stuck anchors free.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Maintain and stow your trip line.\", \"描述\": \"Once the anchor's on board, it's time to remove the trip line from the crown. After using your trip line, you should rinse it well in clean water. Allow the wet line to air dry completely, then return it where it belongs in the anchor locker.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Trip Line\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase or make a buoy.\", \"描述\": \"Even a cheap Styrofoam buoy from your local hardware store should work for a trip line anchor buoy. Serious boaters or those who frequent deep waters might benefit from sturdier buoys purchased from boat supply stores.\\nMake an upcycled buoy from a clean plastic jug. You can even paint the jug a bright color to make it easier to spot in the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut polypropylene cord for the buoy.\", \"描述\": \"Not only will polypropylene line withstand harsh conditions better than most other kinds of cordage, it also floats. The length of your trip line should be about 3 ft (.91 m) longer than the highest tide in your sailing area.\\nChoose a bright color of polypropylene cord so you can spot your trip line better in unfavorable conditions.\\nAfter cutting the rope, prevent it from fraying at the cut end with glue or by passing a the flame of a lighter over the cut end to melt it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the buoy to the line with a large eye splice.\", \"描述\": \"Large is the key word here. A large eye splice will make snagging your buoy a cinch with a boat hook. If you decide to use another kind of knot, make sure it's sturdy. Your trip line won't do you much good if the buoy floats away.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using Trip Lines Safely\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Write a label on your buoy.\", \"描述\": \"Especially in crowded conditions, boaters desperate for moorage might take liberties with unmarked buoys. Send a clear message that your buoy is currently in use by writing “Trip line, don't pick up” in large letters, along with your boat's name.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Avoid using trip lines overnight.\", \"描述\": \"In the dark, even the most colorful trip lines can be missed. This can tangle in a fellow boaters' propellers, causing trouble for you both. Especially if there's night traffic on the water, you may want to forego a trip line for overnight anchorages.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prevent boats from damaging your anchor with a trip line.\", \"描述\": \"Crowded harbors can be difficult places to maneuver. This can sometimes cause other boats to pass uncomfortably close to your anchor and its line. Improve visibility of your anchorage point for other boats with a trip line.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a trip line when anchoring in areas with a poor bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Broken rock or large pieces of coral can trap your anchor stubbornly in cracks and crevices. If you've had your anchor stuck before in the area you're now anchoring, or if you're worried it might get stuck, deploy a trip line.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Before you anchor your boat in an area, be sure there's plenty of distance between you and any other boats or other obstacles. Your boat will swing around while you're anchored, and you don't want to crash into anything.[20]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nNitzan LevySailing Instructor\\nExpert Interview. 24 April 2020.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,698 |
8 Burger King Secret Menu Items You Need to Try ASAP
|
1. Mustard Whopper
Instead of mayo, get mustard on your next Whopper.
No other menu item at Burger King is quite as iconic as the Whopper, and this variation swaps out the mayo for mustard. It sounds like a small change, we know, but trust us—it makes a surprisingly big (and delicious) difference. Fans of the Mustard Whopper describe it as zingy, zesty, and zippy, so if that sounds like your thing, definitely give this Burger King secret menu option a try.
ask for a Whopper with mustard instead of mayo.
$3.49
2. BK Club
Get a BK Club if you want a club sandwich, Burger King style.
This tender, juicy sandwich off Burger King’s secret menu is every club sandwich lover’s dream. It’s got crispy chicken, bacon, tomato, and cheese. If you want to level up your next chicken sandwich at Burger King, why not go for the BK Club?
ask for a chicken sandwich with bacon, tomato, and cheese added to it.
$3.99
3. BLT
Ready for a mouthwatering take on the classic BLT?
Imagine this: a crisp, delicious BLT fused with a hearty, juicy burger. That’s what you get when you order the BLT off of Burger King’s secret menu. The BK BLT is a classic Whopper (which already has lettuce, tomato, and mayo on it) with yummy bacon added on top. You can’t go wrong with that.
order a Whopper with added bacon.
$3.49
4. Frings
Can’t decide between fries and onion rings? You don’t have to.
Next time you’re debating between BK sides, order the Frings off the secret menu. You’ll get both fries and onion rings combined in one to-go container for the price of a single side. It’s the best of both worlds.
ask for Frings or half fries and half onion rings.
$1.69 for a small, $2.09 for a medium, or $2.29 for a large.
5. Ham and Cheese
Try BK’s Ham and Cheese for a simple but delicious alternative to a burger.
This Burger King secret menu item is exactly what the name implies—ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun. Sure, it’s simple, but ham and cheese is a classic pairing for a reason; the two are delicious together!
ask your server for ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun.
$1.99
6. Rodeo Burger
Onion rings and tangy barbecue sauce on a burger? We’ll take 2 please.
The Rodeo Burger (a cheeseburger with onion rings and BBQ sauce on top) was actually a wildly popular regular menu item at Burger King for years until it was discontinued. What most people don’t know though is that you can still order the Rodeo Burger off of the BK secret menu. That’s right—you can get an exclusive item from the archives the next time you order at Burger King.
ask for a cheeseburger with onion rings and barbecue sauce on it.
$1.49
7. Suicide Burger
If you’re extra hungry and up for a challenge, the Suicide Burger is for you.
Also known as the Quad Stacker, the Suicide Burger has 4 patties (you read that right, 4 patties), making it the heftiest, most filling item on the Burger King secret menu. But that’s not all—the Suicide Burger also comes with 4 slices of cheese and some bacon on top. This burger definitely isn’t for the faint of heart!
ask for the Suicide Burger or Quad Stacker. If your server isn’t sure what those are, order a cheeseburger with 4 patties, 4 slices of cheese, and bacon on top.
$3.99
8. ICEE Float
What’s better than an ICEE slushie and ice cream? Both of them mixed together.
Order the ICEE Float off Burger King’s secret menu to get creamy vanilla ice cream blended with an ICEE slushie in whatever flavor you’d like (we recommend trying the cherry ICEE Float). This is the perfect treat for when you’re walking around on a hot summer day, and everyone will want to know where you got it!
ask for an ICEE Float, or ask for an ICEE mixed with ice cream.
$1.19 for a small, $1.59 for a medium, or $2.09 for a large.
Tips
Keep in mind that some Burger King employees might not know about everything we’ve included in this list. If your server doesn’t know what you’re referring to or isn’t able to customize your order, be kind and respectful! You can always try a different Burger King location.
Burger King isn’t the only food joint to have a secret menu. You can also order off the secret menu at Sonic, Five Guys, Taco Bell, Chick-fil-A, Chipotle, Shake Shack, Jersey Mike’s, and Dairy Queen.
Prices for these items may vary by location.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Mustard Whopper\\nInstead of mayo, get mustard on your next Whopper.\\nNo other menu item at Burger King is quite as iconic as the Whopper, and this variation swaps out the mayo for mustard. It sounds like a small change, we know, but trust us—it makes a surprisingly big (and delicious) difference. Fans of the Mustard Whopper describe it as zingy, zesty, and zippy, so if that sounds like your thing, definitely give this Burger King secret menu option a try.\\n\\n ask for a Whopper with mustard instead of mayo.\\n $3.49\\n2. BK Club\\nGet a BK Club if you want a club sandwich, Burger King style.\\nThis tender, juicy sandwich off Burger King’s secret menu is every club sandwich lover’s dream. It’s got crispy chicken, bacon, tomato, and cheese. If you want to level up your next chicken sandwich at Burger King, why not go for the BK Club?\\n\\n ask for a chicken sandwich with bacon, tomato, and cheese added to it.\\n $3.99\\n3. BLT\\nReady for a mouthwatering take on the classic BLT?\\nImagine this: a crisp, delicious BLT fused with a hearty, juicy burger. That’s what you get when you order the BLT off of Burger King’s secret menu. The BK BLT is a classic Whopper (which already has lettuce, tomato, and mayo on it) with yummy bacon added on top. You can’t go wrong with that. \\n\\n order a Whopper with added bacon.\\n $3.49\\n4. Frings\\nCan’t decide between fries and onion rings? You don’t have to.\\nNext time you’re debating between BK sides, order the Frings off the secret menu. You’ll get both fries and onion rings combined in one to-go container for the price of a single side. It’s the best of both worlds.\\n ask for Frings or half fries and half onion rings.\\n $1.69 for a small, $2.09 for a medium, or $2.29 for a large.\\n5. Ham and Cheese\\nTry BK’s Ham and Cheese for a simple but delicious alternative to a burger.\\nThis Burger King secret menu item is exactly what the name implies—ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun. Sure, it’s simple, but ham and cheese is a classic pairing for a reason; the two are delicious together!\\n ask your server for ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun.\\n $1.99\\n6. Rodeo Burger\\nOnion rings and tangy barbecue sauce on a burger? We’ll take 2 please.\\nThe Rodeo Burger (a cheeseburger with onion rings and BBQ sauce on top) was actually a wildly popular regular menu item at Burger King for years until it was discontinued. What most people don’t know though is that you can still order the Rodeo Burger off of the BK secret menu. That’s right—you can get an exclusive item from the archives the next time you order at Burger King.\\n ask for a cheeseburger with onion rings and barbecue sauce on it.\\n $1.49\\n7. Suicide Burger\\nIf you’re extra hungry and up for a challenge, the Suicide Burger is for you.\\nAlso known as the Quad Stacker, the Suicide Burger has 4 patties (you read that right, 4 patties), making it the heftiest, most filling item on the Burger King secret menu. But that’s not all—the Suicide Burger also comes with 4 slices of cheese and some bacon on top. This burger definitely isn’t for the faint of heart!\\n ask for the Suicide Burger or Quad Stacker. If your server isn’t sure what those are, order a cheeseburger with 4 patties, 4 slices of cheese, and bacon on top.\\n $3.99\\n8. ICEE Float\\nWhat’s better than an ICEE slushie and ice cream? Both of them mixed together.\\nOrder the ICEE Float off Burger King’s secret menu to get creamy vanilla ice cream blended with an ICEE slushie in whatever flavor you’d like (we recommend trying the cherry ICEE Float). This is the perfect treat for when you’re walking around on a hot summer day, and everyone will want to know where you got it!\\n\\n ask for an ICEE Float, or ask for an ICEE mixed with ice cream.\\n $1.19 for a small, $1.59 for a medium, or $2.09 for a large.\\nTips\\nKeep in mind that some Burger King employees might not know about everything we’ve included in this list. If your server doesn’t know what you’re referring to or isn’t able to customize your order, be kind and respectful! You can always try a different Burger King location.\\nBurger King isn’t the only food joint to have a secret menu. You can also order off the secret menu at Sonic, Five Guys, Taco Bell, Chick-fil-A, Chipotle, Shake Shack, Jersey Mike’s, and Dairy Queen.\\nPrices for these items may vary by location.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Burger King’s menu is already so iconic and delicious, but did you know they have an entire secret menu full of delicious items most people don’t know about? The Burger King secret menu features 8 unofficial meals that every BK fan will love, from fun burger variations to special sides and drinks. If you want to be “in the know” next time you order at Burger King, definitely check out the list of their secret menu items below.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mustard Whopper\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Instead of mayo, get mustard on your next Whopper.\", \"描述\": \"No other menu item at Burger King is quite as iconic as the Whopper, and this variation swaps out the mayo for mustard. It sounds like a small change, we know, but trust us—it makes a surprisingly big (and delicious) difference. Fans of the Mustard Whopper describe it as zingy, zesty, and zippy, so if that sounds like your thing, definitely give this Burger King secret menu option a try.\\n\\n ask for a Whopper with mustard instead of mayo.\\n $3.49\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"BK Club\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a BK Club if you want a club sandwich, Burger King style.\", \"描述\": \"This tender, juicy sandwich off Burger King’s secret menu is every club sandwich lover’s dream. It’s got crispy chicken, bacon, tomato, and cheese. If you want to level up your next chicken sandwich at Burger King, why not go for the BK Club?\\n\\n ask for a chicken sandwich with bacon, tomato, and cheese added to it.\\n $3.99\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"BLT\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Ready for a mouthwatering take on the classic BLT?\", \"描述\": \"Imagine this: a crisp, delicious BLT fused with a hearty, juicy burger. That’s what you get when you order the BLT off of Burger King’s secret menu. The BK BLT is a classic Whopper (which already has lettuce, tomato, and mayo on it) with yummy bacon added on top. You can’t go wrong with that. \\n\\n order a Whopper with added bacon.\\n $3.49\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Frings\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Can’t decide between fries and onion rings? You don’t have to.\", \"描述\": \"Next time you’re debating between BK sides, order the Frings off the secret menu. You’ll get both fries and onion rings combined in one to-go container for the price of a single side. It’s the best of both worlds.\\n ask for Frings or half fries and half onion rings.\\n $1.69 for a small, $2.09 for a medium, or $2.29 for a large.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ham and Cheese\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try BK’s Ham and Cheese for a simple but delicious alternative to a burger.\", \"描述\": \"This Burger King secret menu item is exactly what the name implies—ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun. Sure, it’s simple, but ham and cheese is a classic pairing for a reason; the two are delicious together!\\n ask your server for ham and cheese on a sesame seed bun.\\n $1.99\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Rodeo Burger\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Onion rings and tangy barbecue sauce on a burger? We’ll take 2 please.\", \"描述\": \"The Rodeo Burger (a cheeseburger with onion rings and BBQ sauce on top) was actually a wildly popular regular menu item at Burger King for years until it was discontinued. What most people don’t know though is that you can still order the Rodeo Burger off of the BK secret menu. That’s right—you can get an exclusive item from the archives the next time you order at Burger King.\\n ask for a cheeseburger with onion rings and barbecue sauce on it.\\n $1.49\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Suicide Burger\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If you’re extra hungry and up for a challenge, the Suicide Burger is for you.\", \"描述\": \"Also known as the Quad Stacker, the Suicide Burger has 4 patties (you read that right, 4 patties), making it the heftiest, most filling item on the Burger King secret menu. But that’s not all—the Suicide Burger also comes with 4 slices of cheese and some bacon on top. This burger definitely isn’t for the faint of heart!\\n ask for the Suicide Burger or Quad Stacker. If your server isn’t sure what those are, order a cheeseburger with 4 patties, 4 slices of cheese, and bacon on top.\\n $3.99\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"ICEE Float\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"What’s better than an ICEE slushie and ice cream? Both of them mixed together.\", \"描述\": \"Order the ICEE Float off Burger King’s secret menu to get creamy vanilla ice cream blended with an ICEE slushie in whatever flavor you’d like (we recommend trying the cherry ICEE Float). This is the perfect treat for when you’re walking around on a hot summer day, and everyone will want to know where you got it!\\n\\n ask for an ICEE Float, or ask for an ICEE mixed with ice cream.\\n $1.19 for a small, $1.59 for a medium, or $2.09 for a large.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep in mind that some Burger King employees might not know about everything we’ve included in this list. If your server doesn’t know what you’re referring to or isn’t able to customize your order, be kind and respectful! You can always try a different Burger King location.\\n\", \"Burger King isn’t the only food joint to have a secret menu. You can also order off the secret menu at Sonic, Five Guys, Taco Bell, Chick-fil-A, Chipotle, Shake Shack, Jersey Mike’s, and Dairy Queen.\\n\", \"Prices for these items may vary by location.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,699 |
How to Burglarproof Your Doors
|
1. Do You Have the Right Door?
1-1. Get the right doors.
If your front and back doors are hollow, you need to replace them immediately. How do you know if your door is hollow? Simply knock on it. Hollow doors are merely sheets of veneer over a cardboard core. All exterior doors should be solid and made from the following materials:
Fiberglass
Solid wood
Solid wood core (a layer of veneer over solid wood)
Metal (Note: make sure metal doors are reinforced inside and have what is called a lock block. Otherwise, they can be bent out of the frame using a car jack)
1-2. If installing/replacing a new door and frame, consider a fiberglass door that swings outward rather than inward (and don't forget using security hinges).
Having a door open in this way helps absorb any type of forced entry.
1-3. Replace all windowed exterior doors with windowless doors.
For maximum security, all doors should be windowless, and you should not have windows close enough to the door so that a thief could break the window and unlock the door from the inside. A deadbolt isn't much help on any door like this for that reason. A big dog's the only possible hindrance with these doors, but only with the landlord's permission.
If you do have sliding glass doors, glass door panels or nearby windows, however, cover the glass with a security grate or grille on the outside or a clear, unbreakable polycarbonate panel secured behind the glass on the inside.
2. Lock Your Doors
2-1. Install deadbolt locks.
With the exception of sliding doors, all exterior doors should have a deadbolt lock in addition to the lock built into the doorknob. The deadbolt should be high quality (grade 1 or 2, solid metal with no exposed screws on the exterior), with a throw bolt (the bolt that comes out of the door) at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. The lock should be properly installed. Many homes have lower quality deadbolts or throw bolts less than 1 inch (2.5 cm). These must be replaced.
2-2. Install a dead-lock.
Adding an additional lock will provide extra security when you are home. The dead-lock (sometimes called an 'exit-only deadbolt') is a deadbolt that does not have an external key. It may be clearly visible on the door from the outside, but it cannot be broken into without destroying the door, frame, or lock itself. While this security won't help directly when you aren't home, its visibility may discourage an intruder from trying the door.
2-3. Secure sliding doors.
The best way to secure sliding doors is to install keyed locks at the top and bottom. You can also make or purchase a bar that swings down from the door frame to the middle of the door to prevent the door from sliding. At the very least, place a rod (a thick wooden dowel, for example) in the bottom track of the door to keep it from being opened. Regardless of the method you use, it's a good idea to reinforce the glass with polycarbonate panels, as recommended in the previous step.
3. Reinforce Your Entryway
3-1. Install cylinder guards around the lock cylinders (the part where you insert the key).
Burglars can sometimes remove or damage lock cylinders by hammering, wrenching, or prying. Protect these with metal guard plates or protective rings on both sides of the door. Install guard plates with round-head carriage bolts to prevent them from being unscrewed. Free-spinning rings around the cylinders will prevent the use of a pipe wrench to twist out the cylinder. Many locks come with these already, but if yours doesn't, you can purchase them.
3-2. Replace flimsy strike plates.
The strike plate is the metal plate that surrounds the lock-set (the hole in the door frame where the lock bolt enters). All exterior doors should have heavy-duty metal security strike plates secured by four 3-inch screws. Many homes are built with lower quality strike plates or have strike plates that are secured with short screws that just attach to the door jamb, not the underlying stud.
3-3. Secure exposed hinges.
Hinges should be on the inside of the door. If yours are not, rehang the door or secure the exposed hinges with non-removable pins. You can do this by removing at least the two center screws of the hinge (on each side) and replacing them with non-removable hinge pins (you can get these at the hardware store) or double-headed masonry nails. Even hinges that are not exposed should be secured to the frame with 3-inch screws.
3-4. Fortify your frame.
Even if your door is strong and has high-quality, properly installed locks, a burglar may be able to gain entry by breaking or prying the door frame. Most door frame moldings are simply tacked to the wall, so a crowbar or a solid kick can easily separate the frame from the wall. Secure your door frames to the walls by installing several 3-inch screws along the frame and doorstop. The screws should reach the wall stud.
4. Peepholes
Install viewers.
Viewers (also called peepholes) allow you to see who is on the other side of the door. Install wide-angle viewers at eye level on all exterior doors. If you have to open your door to see, your locks won't do you much good. Try to find peepholes with covers to prevent people from looking back in with special tools, like a reverse peephole viewer.
Tips
Doors and their hardware need maintenance from time to time, and poorly maintained doors make it easier for a thief to enter your house. In particular, make sure the tracks for sliding doors are in good repair and that the door stays in the track.
Add a security camera. Even 1 or 2 economical cameras can deter would-be thieves. You can set them up to record going to your computer or phone. Uniden makes good systems that won't break the bank.
When placing a rod behind a sliding door, use PVC, wood, or aluminum. Avoid steel, as it can be lifted with strong magnets. The PVC, wood, or aluminum will give a burglar ample resistance to opening the door. Once they feel it is too hard, they will move on to an easier target.
Warnings
Don't become obsessed with security. Naturally, you want to take all reasonable measures to protect yourself, your family, and your belongings, but don't turn your house into a prison. No matter what precautions you take, you could still become the victim of a crime at some point, and you've got a life to live - don't let fear prevent you from enjoying your life.
Even the most solid lock system is worthless if the frame around the door is weak. Make sure the door frame is as strong and secure as the lock.
If you're not used to locking your doors and you have a door that you can lock without a key, take care to remember your keys whenever you leave the house. You may lock yourself out once or twice despite your best efforts, but you'll soon get into the routine. Leave a copy of your key with a neighbor, or discuss hiding it somewhere on their property, rather than leaving an obvious hide-a-key device with your key next to the door.
Double-cylinder locks, while more secure, can present a danger in the event of a fire since you must find and use a key to open them, even from the inside. In some jurisdictions, building codes prohibit their use in residences. Consider the risk these locks present before installing them.
Lock picking is easy if you know how to do it correctly, even on a dead bolt. Also a bump-key proof lock is something you should look into. Medeco locks, although expensive, provide the best protection from picking.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Do You Have the Right Door?\\n1-1. Get the right doors.\\nIf your front and back doors are hollow, you need to replace them immediately. How do you know if your door is hollow? Simply knock on it. Hollow doors are merely sheets of veneer over a cardboard core. All exterior doors should be solid and made from the following materials:\\nFiberglass\\nSolid wood\\nSolid wood core (a layer of veneer over solid wood)\\nMetal (Note: make sure metal doors are reinforced inside and have what is called a lock block. Otherwise, they can be bent out of the frame using a car jack)\\n1-2. If installing/replacing a new door and frame, consider a fiberglass door that swings outward rather than inward (and don't forget using security hinges).\\nHaving a door open in this way helps absorb any type of forced entry.\\n1-3. Replace all windowed exterior doors with windowless doors.\\nFor maximum security, all doors should be windowless, and you should not have windows close enough to the door so that a thief could break the window and unlock the door from the inside. A deadbolt isn't much help on any door like this for that reason. A big dog's the only possible hindrance with these doors, but only with the landlord's permission. \\nIf you do have sliding glass doors, glass door panels or nearby windows, however, cover the glass with a security grate or grille on the outside or a clear, unbreakable polycarbonate panel secured behind the glass on the inside.\\n2. Lock Your Doors\\n2-1. Install deadbolt locks.\\nWith the exception of sliding doors, all exterior doors should have a deadbolt lock in addition to the lock built into the doorknob. The deadbolt should be high quality (grade 1 or 2, solid metal with no exposed screws on the exterior), with a throw bolt (the bolt that comes out of the door) at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. The lock should be properly installed. Many homes have lower quality deadbolts or throw bolts less than 1 inch (2.5 cm). These must be replaced.\\n2-2. Install a dead-lock.\\nAdding an additional lock will provide extra security when you are home. The dead-lock (sometimes called an 'exit-only deadbolt') is a deadbolt that does not have an external key. It may be clearly visible on the door from the outside, but it cannot be broken into without destroying the door, frame, or lock itself. While this security won't help directly when you aren't home, its visibility may discourage an intruder from trying the door.\\n2-3. Secure sliding doors.\\nThe best way to secure sliding doors is to install keyed locks at the top and bottom. You can also make or purchase a bar that swings down from the door frame to the middle of the door to prevent the door from sliding. At the very least, place a rod (a thick wooden dowel, for example) in the bottom track of the door to keep it from being opened. Regardless of the method you use, it's a good idea to reinforce the glass with polycarbonate panels, as recommended in the previous step.\\n3. Reinforce Your Entryway\\n3-1. Install cylinder guards around the lock cylinders (the part where you insert the key).\\nBurglars can sometimes remove or damage lock cylinders by hammering, wrenching, or prying. Protect these with metal guard plates or protective rings on both sides of the door. Install guard plates with round-head carriage bolts to prevent them from being unscrewed. Free-spinning rings around the cylinders will prevent the use of a pipe wrench to twist out the cylinder. Many locks come with these already, but if yours doesn't, you can purchase them.\\n3-2. Replace flimsy strike plates.\\nThe strike plate is the metal plate that surrounds the lock-set (the hole in the door frame where the lock bolt enters). All exterior doors should have heavy-duty metal security strike plates secured by four 3-inch screws. Many homes are built with lower quality strike plates or have strike plates that are secured with short screws that just attach to the door jamb, not the underlying stud.\\n3-3. Secure exposed hinges.\\nHinges should be on the inside of the door. If yours are not, rehang the door or secure the exposed hinges with non-removable pins. You can do this by removing at least the two center screws of the hinge (on each side) and replacing them with non-removable hinge pins (you can get these at the hardware store) or double-headed masonry nails. Even hinges that are not exposed should be secured to the frame with 3-inch screws.\\n3-4. Fortify your frame.\\nEven if your door is strong and has high-quality, properly installed locks, a burglar may be able to gain entry by breaking or prying the door frame. Most door frame moldings are simply tacked to the wall, so a crowbar or a solid kick can easily separate the frame from the wall. Secure your door frames to the walls by installing several 3-inch screws along the frame and doorstop. The screws should reach the wall stud.\\n4. Peepholes\\nInstall viewers.\\nViewers (also called peepholes) allow you to see who is on the other side of the door. Install wide-angle viewers at eye level on all exterior doors. If you have to open your door to see, your locks won't do you much good. Try to find peepholes with covers to prevent people from looking back in with special tools, like a reverse peephole viewer.\\nTips\\nDoors and their hardware need maintenance from time to time, and poorly maintained doors make it easier for a thief to enter your house. In particular, make sure the tracks for sliding doors are in good repair and that the door stays in the track.\\nAdd a security camera. Even 1 or 2 economical cameras can deter would-be thieves. You can set them up to record going to your computer or phone. Uniden makes good systems that won't break the bank.\\nWhen placing a rod behind a sliding door, use PVC, wood, or aluminum. Avoid steel, as it can be lifted with strong magnets. The PVC, wood, or aluminum will give a burglar ample resistance to opening the door. Once they feel it is too hard, they will move on to an easier target.\\nWarnings\\nDon't become obsessed with security. Naturally, you want to take all reasonable measures to protect yourself, your family, and your belongings, but don't turn your house into a prison. No matter what precautions you take, you could still become the victim of a crime at some point, and you've got a life to live - don't let fear prevent you from enjoying your life.\\nEven the most solid lock system is worthless if the frame around the door is weak. Make sure the door frame is as strong and secure as the lock.\\nIf you're not used to locking your doors and you have a door that you can lock without a key, take care to remember your keys whenever you leave the house. You may lock yourself out once or twice despite your best efforts, but you'll soon get into the routine. Leave a copy of your key with a neighbor, or discuss hiding it somewhere on their property, rather than leaving an obvious hide-a-key device with your key next to the door.\\nDouble-cylinder locks, while more secure, can present a danger in the event of a fire since you must find and use a key to open them, even from the inside. In some jurisdictions, building codes prohibit their use in residences. Consider the risk these locks present before installing them.\\nLock picking is easy if you know how to do it correctly, even on a dead bolt. Also a bump-key proof lock is something you should look into. Medeco locks, although expensive, provide the best protection from picking.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Burglaries are always a concern for homeowners. But what's the best way to keep your house safe? Undoubtedly you've already installed an alarm system (if not, do so right away), and maybe you've got a guard dog patrolling your property too. Statistics prove that most burglars enter a house through the front or back door. So keep those doors locked and secure. Here are some suggestions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Do You Have the Right Door?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the right doors.\", \"描述\": \"If your front and back doors are hollow, you need to replace them immediately. How do you know if your door is hollow? Simply knock on it. Hollow doors are merely sheets of veneer over a cardboard core. All exterior doors should be solid and made from the following materials:\\nFiberglass\\nSolid wood\\nSolid wood core (a layer of veneer over solid wood)\\nMetal (Note: make sure metal doors are reinforced inside and have what is called a lock block. Otherwise, they can be bent out of the frame using a car jack)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"If installing/replacing a new door and frame, consider a fiberglass door that swings outward rather than inward (and don't forget using security hinges).\", \"描述\": \"Having a door open in this way helps absorb any type of forced entry.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Replace all windowed exterior doors with windowless doors.\", \"描述\": \"For maximum security, all doors should be windowless, and you should not have windows close enough to the door so that a thief could break the window and unlock the door from the inside. A deadbolt isn't much help on any door like this for that reason. A big dog's the only possible hindrance with these doors, but only with the landlord's permission. \\nIf you do have sliding glass doors, glass door panels or nearby windows, however, cover the glass with a security grate or grille on the outside or a clear, unbreakable polycarbonate panel secured behind the glass on the inside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lock Your Doors\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install deadbolt locks.\", \"描述\": \"With the exception of sliding doors, all exterior doors should have a deadbolt lock in addition to the lock built into the doorknob. The deadbolt should be high quality (grade 1 or 2, solid metal with no exposed screws on the exterior), with a throw bolt (the bolt that comes out of the door) at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. The lock should be properly installed. Many homes have lower quality deadbolts or throw bolts less than 1 inch (2.5 cm). These must be replaced.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install a dead-lock.\", \"描述\": \"Adding an additional lock will provide extra security when you are home. The dead-lock (sometimes called an 'exit-only deadbolt') is a deadbolt that does not have an external key. It may be clearly visible on the door from the outside, but it cannot be broken into without destroying the door, frame, or lock itself. While this security won't help directly when you aren't home, its visibility may discourage an intruder from trying the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure sliding doors.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to secure sliding doors is to install keyed locks at the top and bottom. You can also make or purchase a bar that swings down from the door frame to the middle of the door to prevent the door from sliding. At the very least, place a rod (a thick wooden dowel, for example) in the bottom track of the door to keep it from being opened. Regardless of the method you use, it's a good idea to reinforce the glass with polycarbonate panels, as recommended in the previous step.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Reinforce Your Entryway\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install cylinder guards around the lock cylinders (the part where you insert the key).\", \"描述\": \"Burglars can sometimes remove or damage lock cylinders by hammering, wrenching, or prying. Protect these with metal guard plates or protective rings on both sides of the door. Install guard plates with round-head carriage bolts to prevent them from being unscrewed. Free-spinning rings around the cylinders will prevent the use of a pipe wrench to twist out the cylinder. Many locks come with these already, but if yours doesn't, you can purchase them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace flimsy strike plates.\", \"描述\": \"The strike plate is the metal plate that surrounds the lock-set (the hole in the door frame where the lock bolt enters). All exterior doors should have heavy-duty metal security strike plates secured by four 3-inch screws. Many homes are built with lower quality strike plates or have strike plates that are secured with short screws that just attach to the door jamb, not the underlying stud.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure exposed hinges.\", \"描述\": \"Hinges should be on the inside of the door. If yours are not, rehang the door or secure the exposed hinges with non-removable pins. You can do this by removing at least the two center screws of the hinge (on each side) and replacing them with non-removable hinge pins (you can get these at the hardware store) or double-headed masonry nails. Even hinges that are not exposed should be secured to the frame with 3-inch screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fortify your frame.\", \"描述\": \"Even if your door is strong and has high-quality, properly installed locks, a burglar may be able to gain entry by breaking or prying the door frame. Most door frame moldings are simply tacked to the wall, so a crowbar or a solid kick can easily separate the frame from the wall. Secure your door frames to the walls by installing several 3-inch screws along the frame and doorstop. The screws should reach the wall stud.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Peepholes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install viewers.\", \"描述\": \"Viewers (also called peepholes) allow you to see who is on the other side of the door. Install wide-angle viewers at eye level on all exterior doors. If you have to open your door to see, your locks won't do you much good. Try to find peepholes with covers to prevent people from looking back in with special tools, like a reverse peephole viewer.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Doors and their hardware need maintenance from time to time, and poorly maintained doors make it easier for a thief to enter your house. In particular, make sure the tracks for sliding doors are in good repair and that the door stays in the track.\\n\", \"Add a security camera. Even 1 or 2 economical cameras can deter would-be thieves. You can set them up to record going to your computer or phone. Uniden makes good systems that won't break the bank.\\n\", \"When placing a rod behind a sliding door, use PVC, wood, or aluminum. Avoid steel, as it can be lifted with strong magnets. The PVC, wood, or aluminum will give a burglar ample resistance to opening the door. Once they feel it is too hard, they will move on to an easier target.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't become obsessed with security. Naturally, you want to take all reasonable measures to protect yourself, your family, and your belongings, but don't turn your house into a prison. No matter what precautions you take, you could still become the victim of a crime at some point, and you've got a life to live - don't let fear prevent you from enjoying your life.\\n\", \"Even the most solid lock system is worthless if the frame around the door is weak. Make sure the door frame is as strong and secure as the lock.\\n\", \"If you're not used to locking your doors and you have a door that you can lock without a key, take care to remember your keys whenever you leave the house. You may lock yourself out once or twice despite your best efforts, but you'll soon get into the routine. Leave a copy of your key with a neighbor, or discuss hiding it somewhere on their property, rather than leaving an obvious hide-a-key device with your key next to the door.\\n\", \"Double-cylinder locks, while more secure, can present a danger in the event of a fire since you must find and use a key to open them, even from the inside. In some jurisdictions, building codes prohibit their use in residences. Consider the risk these locks present before installing them.\\n\", \"Lock picking is easy if you know how to do it correctly, even on a dead bolt. Also a bump-key proof lock is something you should look into. Medeco locks, although expensive, provide the best protection from picking.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,700 |
How to Burlesque Dance
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1. Learning Beginner Burlesque Moves
1-1. Try bopping your hip for an easy, sexy move.
You can dance by bopping your hip both with and without props. Stand with your body to the side. Bend 1 knee and keep only your toes of that foot on the ground. Bring your hip up and down to the beat of the music. Try to bounce your weight into your heel and back out again as you move your hip to create a bopping motion.
If you aren’t using a prop, bend your elbow and place your hand on the hip that you’re bopping.
If you’re using a prop such as a chair, hold onto it with your hand that is on the same side of your body as the hip you’re bopping.
Try switching the side that you’re facing outwards to change up this simple bopping move.
1-2. Shake your shoulders forward and back to do a shimmy.
A shimmy is fun, beginner burlesque move that uses your shoulders and upper body. Bring each shoulder up towards your ear and down quickly, alternating between your left and right, to begin shimmying. Then slowly tilt your upper body back and forth while you’re shaking your shoulders. Bend your elbows while you shimmy and keep your arms outstretched slightly to maintain an open and inviting posture.
1-3. Move your hips in a circle and squeeze your glutes to do the grind move.
The grind is a popular burlesque move because it’s easy to pull off and is a hit with the audience! Slowly rotate your hips and pelvis in a circular motion, from in front of you to behind you. As you move your hips and pelvis in front of you, squeeze your glutes tightly and suck your stomach in. Release your glutes and your stomach as you move your hips and pelvis behind you again.
You can either keep your hands on your hips as you perform this step or keep your arms open and roll your wrists gently as your hips move.
It can be helpful to imagine that you have a hula hoop around your hips and that you need to follow the circular shape.
1-4. Learn to strut for a basic burlesque-style walk.
A strut is a great way to move around the stage in a fun and sexy fashion! Strut by walking forwards in a slow, steady motion with your toes pointed. Aim to take calm, collected steps and to almost cross one leg in front of the other as you walk so that your hip movements are exaggerated. Make sure that you walk with your back straight, your shoulders back, and your chest lifted.
If you aren’t holding any props, you can place 1 hand on your hip as you strut.
1-5. Bend down and then swing your hair back to do a hair flip.
Outstretch 1 leg in front of your body and keep it straight with your toes pointed. Bend forward and try to touch the toes of your outstretched leg, and then quickly swing your upper body back up from your waist. Run your hand back up your leg towards your thigh and draw your head back so that your hair flips off your face and into the air.
Bend your other leg at the knee while you're performing a hair flip.
A hair flip is a great burlesque move because it's straightforward and a good opportunity to show off your winning smile!
1-6. Spin as you walk forward for a burlesque-style turn.
Strut forwards and then add in a twirl as you're walking. After you have completed a full turn, stretch 1 leg outwards and point your toes towards the floor. Then keep your toes pointed and quickly bring your knee back up towards your hip and down again to draw your foot up, as though you're teasing the floor.
This move is both fun and flirty!
1-7. Do the arch and swirl for a fun burlesque move.
The arch and swirl move is simple and easy to do! Stand with your legs just further apart than your shoulders and bend down at your hips, as though you are trying to reach something off the floor. Keep your legs straight while you bend and then bring your body back up, running your hands up your legs. When you're upright again, swirl your hips to the side towards the audience.
Keep your back straight while you bend forward.
1-8. Try a leg crossover for a fun move to perform with a chair.
A leg crossover is a great way to learn to dance with props such as chairs. Stand next to a chair and cross one leg in front of the other, keeping your ankles close together. Bend forward at your hips and rest your palms on the chair seat. Make sure that your legs and back stay straight. Then bend 1 knee and kick out that leg behind you, moving it in a circular motion before bringing your foot back to the ground and crossing your legs again.
You can repeat your leg kicks as many times as you like. Simply alternate between legs. This looks as though you are strutting on the spot and crossing your legs between each step.
Keep your toes pointed and your kicks graceful.
2. Incorporating Costumes, Props, Music, and More
2-1. Wear dazzling, fun costumes with plenty of flair.
Wearing a playful, sensual costume is a huge part of burlesque dancing! Look for leotards, corsets, lingerie, or two-piece outfits that are shiny, glittery, or simply just stand out. Heels are also a must for burlesque dancing. For both your clothes and shoes, look for feathers, sequins, satin, and other materials that draw attention to you.
Don’t be afraid of accessories like flowers in your hair, large statement earrings, capes, or feather boas!
Burlesque was very popular from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s, so frills, feathers, faux fur, and anything with sparkle is ideal. Research the burlesque star Gypsy Rose Lee for more inspiration.
Stilettos and pumps are popular burlesque heels.
If you are planning to strip as part of your routine, make sure that you pick clothing that you can easily and smoothly take off while you’re dancing.
2-2. Use your facial expressions as part of your performance.
Your expressions play a huge part in getting your audience engaged and having fun while you’re dancing. Try a sexy smile, a look of faux surprise as you strip, a playful smirk, or bite your lip. Dance in front of a mirror while you practice your routine and try out different expressions for each step to see what you prefer and what helps you to feel confident.
2-3. Choose jazz or big band songs for traditional burlesque-style music.
Although burlesque is performed to a wide range of different genres, jazz and big band are the most traditional genres. Look for songs that you enjoy the beat of and that go well with your favorite moves. If you’re stuck for inspiration, try attending a burlesque show and picking the songs that you like or watching a burlesque-inspired movie such as the 2010 film Burlesque.
The jazz and big band genres are popular for burlesque, however, any music that makes you feel sexy and that you can dance to is ideal!
2-4. Use props such as a chair or a feather fan to tease the audience.
Burlesque dancing often involves plenty of fun props that you can use to help engage the audience. Get a chair and try dancing on or around it. You could also use a feather fan to wave in front of your body or to use as part of your striptease.
You can also use your accessories as props. Feather boas, gloves, and hats are great for your striptease routine and for twirling in your hands as part of your dance moves.
2-5. Experience burlesque through shows and videos to learn more about it.
There are plenty of different ways to experience burlesque dancing. Use a search engine to find local burlesque shows to attend or to find classes if you want to learn how to start dancing from a professional. Alternatively, watch burlesque dancing tutorials online to practice your moves from home.
Attending burlesque shows and classes is a great way to meet other people that are interested in burlesque too.
2-6. Practice confidence and believe in yourself while you’re dancing.
Burlesque dancing relies on you feeling confident, sexy, and in control. Even if you’re just a beginner, try your best to be confident in your ability and progress. Use positive affirmations to help you feel good, smile even if you’re finding things difficult, and leave any mistakes in the past.
Confidence is the key to having fun during burlesque dancing.
Positive affirmations can really help if you’re having trouble feeling confident when you dance. Replace negative, detrimental thoughts with helpful statements such as, “I improve every time I practice,” or “I am a good dancer.”
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Learning Beginner Burlesque Moves\\n1-1. Try bopping your hip for an easy, sexy move.\\nYou can dance by bopping your hip both with and without props. Stand with your body to the side. Bend 1 knee and keep only your toes of that foot on the ground. Bring your hip up and down to the beat of the music. Try to bounce your weight into your heel and back out again as you move your hip to create a bopping motion.\\nIf you aren’t using a prop, bend your elbow and place your hand on the hip that you’re bopping.\\nIf you’re using a prop such as a chair, hold onto it with your hand that is on the same side of your body as the hip you’re bopping.\\nTry switching the side that you’re facing outwards to change up this simple bopping move.\\n1-2. Shake your shoulders forward and back to do a shimmy.\\nA shimmy is fun, beginner burlesque move that uses your shoulders and upper body. Bring each shoulder up towards your ear and down quickly, alternating between your left and right, to begin shimmying. Then slowly tilt your upper body back and forth while you’re shaking your shoulders. Bend your elbows while you shimmy and keep your arms outstretched slightly to maintain an open and inviting posture.\\n1-3. Move your hips in a circle and squeeze your glutes to do the grind move.\\nThe grind is a popular burlesque move because it’s easy to pull off and is a hit with the audience! Slowly rotate your hips and pelvis in a circular motion, from in front of you to behind you. As you move your hips and pelvis in front of you, squeeze your glutes tightly and suck your stomach in. Release your glutes and your stomach as you move your hips and pelvis behind you again.\\nYou can either keep your hands on your hips as you perform this step or keep your arms open and roll your wrists gently as your hips move.\\nIt can be helpful to imagine that you have a hula hoop around your hips and that you need to follow the circular shape.\\n1-4. Learn to strut for a basic burlesque-style walk.\\nA strut is a great way to move around the stage in a fun and sexy fashion! Strut by walking forwards in a slow, steady motion with your toes pointed. Aim to take calm, collected steps and to almost cross one leg in front of the other as you walk so that your hip movements are exaggerated. Make sure that you walk with your back straight, your shoulders back, and your chest lifted.\\nIf you aren’t holding any props, you can place 1 hand on your hip as you strut.\\n1-5. Bend down and then swing your hair back to do a hair flip.\\nOutstretch 1 leg in front of your body and keep it straight with your toes pointed. Bend forward and try to touch the toes of your outstretched leg, and then quickly swing your upper body back up from your waist. Run your hand back up your leg towards your thigh and draw your head back so that your hair flips off your face and into the air.\\nBend your other leg at the knee while you're performing a hair flip.\\nA hair flip is a great burlesque move because it's straightforward and a good opportunity to show off your winning smile!\\n1-6. Spin as you walk forward for a burlesque-style turn.\\nStrut forwards and then add in a twirl as you're walking. After you have completed a full turn, stretch 1 leg outwards and point your toes towards the floor. Then keep your toes pointed and quickly bring your knee back up towards your hip and down again to draw your foot up, as though you're teasing the floor.\\nThis move is both fun and flirty!\\n1-7. Do the arch and swirl for a fun burlesque move.\\nThe arch and swirl move is simple and easy to do! Stand with your legs just further apart than your shoulders and bend down at your hips, as though you are trying to reach something off the floor. Keep your legs straight while you bend and then bring your body back up, running your hands up your legs. When you're upright again, swirl your hips to the side towards the audience.\\nKeep your back straight while you bend forward.\\n1-8. Try a leg crossover for a fun move to perform with a chair.\\nA leg crossover is a great way to learn to dance with props such as chairs. Stand next to a chair and cross one leg in front of the other, keeping your ankles close together. Bend forward at your hips and rest your palms on the chair seat. Make sure that your legs and back stay straight. Then bend 1 knee and kick out that leg behind you, moving it in a circular motion before bringing your foot back to the ground and crossing your legs again.\\nYou can repeat your leg kicks as many times as you like. Simply alternate between legs. This looks as though you are strutting on the spot and crossing your legs between each step.\\nKeep your toes pointed and your kicks graceful.\\n2. Incorporating Costumes, Props, Music, and More\\n2-1. Wear dazzling, fun costumes with plenty of flair.\\nWearing a playful, sensual costume is a huge part of burlesque dancing! Look for leotards, corsets, lingerie, or two-piece outfits that are shiny, glittery, or simply just stand out. Heels are also a must for burlesque dancing. For both your clothes and shoes, look for feathers, sequins, satin, and other materials that draw attention to you.\\nDon’t be afraid of accessories like flowers in your hair, large statement earrings, capes, or feather boas!\\nBurlesque was very popular from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s, so frills, feathers, faux fur, and anything with sparkle is ideal. Research the burlesque star Gypsy Rose Lee for more inspiration.\\nStilettos and pumps are popular burlesque heels.\\nIf you are planning to strip as part of your routine, make sure that you pick clothing that you can easily and smoothly take off while you’re dancing.\\n2-2. Use your facial expressions as part of your performance.\\nYour expressions play a huge part in getting your audience engaged and having fun while you’re dancing. Try a sexy smile, a look of faux surprise as you strip, a playful smirk, or bite your lip. Dance in front of a mirror while you practice your routine and try out different expressions for each step to see what you prefer and what helps you to feel confident.\\n2-3. Choose jazz or big band songs for traditional burlesque-style music.\\nAlthough burlesque is performed to a wide range of different genres, jazz and big band are the most traditional genres. Look for songs that you enjoy the beat of and that go well with your favorite moves. If you’re stuck for inspiration, try attending a burlesque show and picking the songs that you like or watching a burlesque-inspired movie such as the 2010 film Burlesque.\\nThe jazz and big band genres are popular for burlesque, however, any music that makes you feel sexy and that you can dance to is ideal!\\n2-4. Use props such as a chair or a feather fan to tease the audience.\\nBurlesque dancing often involves plenty of fun props that you can use to help engage the audience. Get a chair and try dancing on or around it. You could also use a feather fan to wave in front of your body or to use as part of your striptease.\\nYou can also use your accessories as props. Feather boas, gloves, and hats are great for your striptease routine and for twirling in your hands as part of your dance moves.\\n2-5. Experience burlesque through shows and videos to learn more about it.\\nThere are plenty of different ways to experience burlesque dancing. Use a search engine to find local burlesque shows to attend or to find classes if you want to learn how to start dancing from a professional. Alternatively, watch burlesque dancing tutorials online to practice your moves from home.\\nAttending burlesque shows and classes is a great way to meet other people that are interested in burlesque too.\\n2-6. Practice confidence and believe in yourself while you’re dancing.\\nBurlesque dancing relies on you feeling confident, sexy, and in control. Even if you’re just a beginner, try your best to be confident in your ability and progress. Use positive affirmations to help you feel good, smile even if you’re finding things difficult, and leave any mistakes in the past.\\nConfidence is the key to having fun during burlesque dancing.\\nPositive affirmations can really help if you’re having trouble feeling confident when you dance. Replace negative, detrimental thoughts with helpful statements such as, “I improve every time I practice,” or “I am a good dancer.”\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Burlesque dancing combines sexy moves and risque outfits to create a daring, fun, and sensual performance. Think plenty of feathers, glitter, and sparkles! It is performed at burlesque clubs, bars, and other entertainment venues. Try out different moves such as a shimmy, a strut, or a grind to learn some popular burlesque steps. Then experiment with different costumes, props, and music to create your own routine.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Learning Beginner Burlesque Moves\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try bopping your hip for an easy, sexy move.\", \"描述\": \"You can dance by bopping your hip both with and without props. Stand with your body to the side. Bend 1 knee and keep only your toes of that foot on the ground. Bring your hip up and down to the beat of the music. Try to bounce your weight into your heel and back out again as you move your hip to create a bopping motion.\\nIf you aren’t using a prop, bend your elbow and place your hand on the hip that you’re bopping.\\nIf you’re using a prop such as a chair, hold onto it with your hand that is on the same side of your body as the hip you’re bopping.\\nTry switching the side that you’re facing outwards to change up this simple bopping move.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Shake your shoulders forward and back to do a shimmy.\", \"描述\": \"A shimmy is fun, beginner burlesque move that uses your shoulders and upper body. Bring each shoulder up towards your ear and down quickly, alternating between your left and right, to begin shimmying. Then slowly tilt your upper body back and forth while you’re shaking your shoulders. Bend your elbows while you shimmy and keep your arms outstretched slightly to maintain an open and inviting posture.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Move your hips in a circle and squeeze your glutes to do the grind move.\", \"描述\": \"The grind is a popular burlesque move because it’s easy to pull off and is a hit with the audience! Slowly rotate your hips and pelvis in a circular motion, from in front of you to behind you. As you move your hips and pelvis in front of you, squeeze your glutes tightly and suck your stomach in. Release your glutes and your stomach as you move your hips and pelvis behind you again.\\nYou can either keep your hands on your hips as you perform this step or keep your arms open and roll your wrists gently as your hips move.\\nIt can be helpful to imagine that you have a hula hoop around your hips and that you need to follow the circular shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Learn to strut for a basic burlesque-style walk.\", \"描述\": \"A strut is a great way to move around the stage in a fun and sexy fashion! Strut by walking forwards in a slow, steady motion with your toes pointed. Aim to take calm, collected steps and to almost cross one leg in front of the other as you walk so that your hip movements are exaggerated. Make sure that you walk with your back straight, your shoulders back, and your chest lifted.\\nIf you aren’t holding any props, you can place 1 hand on your hip as you strut.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Bend down and then swing your hair back to do a hair flip.\", \"描述\": \"Outstretch 1 leg in front of your body and keep it straight with your toes pointed. Bend forward and try to touch the toes of your outstretched leg, and then quickly swing your upper body back up from your waist. Run your hand back up your leg towards your thigh and draw your head back so that your hair flips off your face and into the air.\\nBend your other leg at the knee while you're performing a hair flip.\\nA hair flip is a great burlesque move because it's straightforward and a good opportunity to show off your winning smile!\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Spin as you walk forward for a burlesque-style turn.\", \"描述\": \"Strut forwards and then add in a twirl as you're walking. After you have completed a full turn, stretch 1 leg outwards and point your toes towards the floor. Then keep your toes pointed and quickly bring your knee back up towards your hip and down again to draw your foot up, as though you're teasing the floor.\\nThis move is both fun and flirty!\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Do the arch and swirl for a fun burlesque move.\", \"描述\": \"The arch and swirl move is simple and easy to do! Stand with your legs just further apart than your shoulders and bend down at your hips, as though you are trying to reach something off the floor. Keep your legs straight while you bend and then bring your body back up, running your hands up your legs. When you're upright again, swirl your hips to the side towards the audience.\\nKeep your back straight while you bend forward.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Try a leg crossover for a fun move to perform with a chair.\", \"描述\": \"A leg crossover is a great way to learn to dance with props such as chairs. Stand next to a chair and cross one leg in front of the other, keeping your ankles close together. Bend forward at your hips and rest your palms on the chair seat. Make sure that your legs and back stay straight. Then bend 1 knee and kick out that leg behind you, moving it in a circular motion before bringing your foot back to the ground and crossing your legs again.\\nYou can repeat your leg kicks as many times as you like. Simply alternate between legs. This looks as though you are strutting on the spot and crossing your legs between each step.\\nKeep your toes pointed and your kicks graceful.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Costumes, Props, Music, and More\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wear dazzling, fun costumes with plenty of flair.\", \"描述\": \"Wearing a playful, sensual costume is a huge part of burlesque dancing! Look for leotards, corsets, lingerie, or two-piece outfits that are shiny, glittery, or simply just stand out. Heels are also a must for burlesque dancing. For both your clothes and shoes, look for feathers, sequins, satin, and other materials that draw attention to you.\\nDon’t be afraid of accessories like flowers in your hair, large statement earrings, capes, or feather boas!\\nBurlesque was very popular from the late 1800s to the mid-1900s, so frills, feathers, faux fur, and anything with sparkle is ideal. Research the burlesque star Gypsy Rose Lee for more inspiration.\\nStilettos and pumps are popular burlesque heels.\\nIf you are planning to strip as part of your routine, make sure that you pick clothing that you can easily and smoothly take off while you’re dancing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use your facial expressions as part of your performance.\", \"描述\": \"Your expressions play a huge part in getting your audience engaged and having fun while you’re dancing. Try a sexy smile, a look of faux surprise as you strip, a playful smirk, or bite your lip. Dance in front of a mirror while you practice your routine and try out different expressions for each step to see what you prefer and what helps you to feel confident.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose jazz or big band songs for traditional burlesque-style music.\", \"描述\": \"Although burlesque is performed to a wide range of different genres, jazz and big band are the most traditional genres. Look for songs that you enjoy the beat of and that go well with your favorite moves. If you’re stuck for inspiration, try attending a burlesque show and picking the songs that you like or watching a burlesque-inspired movie such as the 2010 film Burlesque.\\nThe jazz and big band genres are popular for burlesque, however, any music that makes you feel sexy and that you can dance to is ideal!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use props such as a chair or a feather fan to tease the audience.\", \"描述\": \"Burlesque dancing often involves plenty of fun props that you can use to help engage the audience. Get a chair and try dancing on or around it. You could also use a feather fan to wave in front of your body or to use as part of your striptease.\\nYou can also use your accessories as props. Feather boas, gloves, and hats are great for your striptease routine and for twirling in your hands as part of your dance moves.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Experience burlesque through shows and videos to learn more about it.\", \"描述\": \"There are plenty of different ways to experience burlesque dancing. Use a search engine to find local burlesque shows to attend or to find classes if you want to learn how to start dancing from a professional. Alternatively, watch burlesque dancing tutorials online to practice your moves from home.\\nAttending burlesque shows and classes is a great way to meet other people that are interested in burlesque too.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Practice confidence and believe in yourself while you’re dancing.\", \"描述\": \"Burlesque dancing relies on you feeling confident, sexy, and in control. Even if you’re just a beginner, try your best to be confident in your ability and progress. Use positive affirmations to help you feel good, smile even if you’re finding things difficult, and leave any mistakes in the past.\\nConfidence is the key to having fun during burlesque dancing.\\nPositive affirmations can really help if you’re having trouble feeling confident when you dance. Replace negative, detrimental thoughts with helpful statements such as, “I improve every time I practice,” or “I am a good dancer.”\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
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Easy Workout Ideas to Burn 100 Calories Quick
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1. Jump rope for 8 minutes.
Jump roping
You loved it as a kid, and now as an adult, you’ll love what it does for your body! Grab a jump rope and hop for 8 minutes straight to burn 100 calories. Or, if you’re looking for a more challenging workout, try alternating on one leg at a time for 30 seconds, back and forth.
Not only is jumping rope fun, but it’s also a great way to improve your cardio fitness through high-intensity exercise and strengthen your bones, too!
2. Kickbox for 10 minutes.
Punch, smack, and whack your way to an amazing workout.
Kickboxing is a truly killer workout and that's gained popularity in recent days, too. This is considered a high-intensity workout, meaning it's a great choice if you're looking for a major challenge. Try out a local class at your recreation center or head online and find a beginner's class there.
Not only is kickboxing a great way to burn calories, but it also improves muscle power, agility, and flexibility.
3. Run for 10 minutes.
A nice jog can leave you feeling refreshed—and burn calories quickly.
The amount of calories you’ll burn running depends on how much ground you cover, and typically, 1 mile equals about 100 calories. So if you’d rather take it slow, no worries. Or if you’re pressed for time, head out for a quick sprint instead! And luckily, it's super easy to get started as a beginner; just progress at your own pace, and work up to higher speeds gradually.
Running isn’t just a great way to burn calories. This exercise is also super connected to longevity and fighting off chronic disease; so every time you lace up those running shoes, you’re keeping yourself healthier for longer, too.
4. Play tennis for 11 minutes.
Game, set, match your way to an endorphin rush.
Grab your racket, ball, and a pal and get yourself down to the court! Or, if you don’t have anyone to play with waiting on deck, hit balls against your garage door (if it’s sturdy enough to handle your wicked forehand, that is!). Playing tennis involves tons of sprinting and it'll wear out your arms too, so it’s a great way to burn energy in a jiff.
Not only does tennis burn 100 calories in 11 minutes, but it’ll also increase your anaerobic health, lower your blood pressure, improve your metabolism, and strengthen your muscles.
5. Bike for 12 minutes.
Cycling
If you take your bike out for a casual spin, you’re likely to burn 100 calories in around 12 minutes. So why not leave the car in the driveway? Try biking to work, a friend’s, or the store to seamlessly weave an extra workout into your schedule.
Flexibility, weight loss, bone strength, and improved mental health are just a few health benefits linked to cycling.
6. Play basketball for 12 minutes.
Enjoy a fun pick up game and sweat it out in the process.
Basketball can be a super exciting way to bond with friends, fill and afternoon, and fine-tune your skills. If you’re playing a full game against some opponents, then you’ll be doing a ton of running back and forth, too (hello, extra calories!). But even if you’re just shooting by yourself, that still burns around 100 calories in 20 minutes.
Plus, basketball isn’t just a great way to burn calories. You’ll also find that your coordination, muscle strength, and endurance improve, too—on top of that, basketball is thought to improve players’ concentration as well.
7. Rollerblade for 12 minutes.
Have fun, feel the breeze, and scorch calories on your favorite skates.
We all know that rollerblading looks amazing, but did you know that it’s also a great workout? Head out to your favorite cement path or skate park and get moving. For even more fun, grab some friends and pick a spot with great views!
Rollerblading isn’t just great for your leg and glute muscles—while you keep yourself upright using your arms and legs, you’re strengthening those regions, too!
8. Swim for 13 minutes.
Say goodbye to those calories with a quick, refreshing swim.
Swimming at a casual pace will burn 100 calories in just 13 minutes, so it’s a super effective workout. If you’re new to swimming and need a little help getting into the swing of things, try starting out using fins. More of a social exerciser? Try treading water with a pal and burn 11 calories per minute.
Not only is swimming a great calorie burner, but it’s also a great full-body workout. Plus, it can build your endurance, strength, and cardio fitness.
9. Do bodyweight workouts for 14 minutes.
Build muscle and break a sweat without heading to the gym.
Bodyweight workouts are the perfect combination of effective and convenient. You have tons of options, too. Try pushups, throw in some crunches, challenge yourself with squats, or build muscle with knee ups. In general, doing bodyweight workouts will burn different amounts of calories, but no matter which one you pick, your body's bound to benefit.
In addition to the standard health benefits of a great workout, bodyweight exercises are great because you can start at your own speed. Add weight if you need to and feel free to quit whenever your body's had enough (and give it another try tomorrow. You've got this!).
10. Walk stairs for 14 minutes.
Skip the elevator and burn a few extra calories.
Simple habit tweaks can make a huge difference for your daily calories burned. Do you take an elevator up to work, school, or activities every day? Try the stairs instead—walking up the steps burns around 100 calories in 14 minutes. Plus, run up the steps instead and you’ll be able to kick those calories even quicker.
Every time you take the stairs, you’re improving your bone and muscle health. Plus, you’re achieving this without any extra (expensive) workout equipment!
11. Dance for 15 minutes.
Who says that working out has to be boring?
Grab a friend, plug in your favorite playlist, and get grooving. Dancing is a great way to burn calories without even realizing it—and though it definitely depends on how you’re moving, you can burn 100 calories in just 15 minutes. Throw in little jigs throughout the day or, if you want to kick those cals even quicker, use dumbbells or ankle weights while you dance it out.
Fun fact: dancing isn’t just great for the body. It can also reduce risk of dementia and improve your memory, too.
12. Elliptical for 18 minutes.
Bust it on the elliptical machine for a quick, effective workout.
Plus, ellipticals are known for being a great workout for beginners—if you’re new to the gym and aren’t sure where to start, hop on one of these machines.
On top of that, the elliptical is easy on your joints and uses your whole body, too. All in all, it’s a great pick to sweat it out!
13. Garden for 20 minutes.
You read that right—a green thumb can help you burn major calories.
Exercise doesn’t have to mean sweating buckets and lifting weights. Pull out those garden sheers instead! When you think about it, gardening does involve a lot of crouching, lifting, leaning, and digging. And all of those little movements add up to a decent calorie total.
Plus, gardening can actually increase your self esteem, increase heart health, and improve hand strength. The more you know!
14. Walk for 22 minutes.
Enjoy a nice, relaxing stroll and chat with a pal.
Who said working out had to be a total pain? Go out for a lovely, brisk walk while you burn major calories. Choose somewhere beautiful in nature, and you’ll reap some amazing mental health benefits, too. Plus, you can always burn calories faster by creating a more difficult walk. Hold some light weights, or walk on an incline instead.
Walking can help you lose weight, increase your energy levels, reduce stress, and strengthen your bones.
15. Stand up for 30 minutes.
Get up off your seat, and burn calories without a second thought.
Have you ever wanted to scorch the day’s calorie load without having to try? We’ve got the solution right here. Stand on your feet for an extra 30 minutes during the day, and that’s 100 calories burned. Whether you’re watching TV, working, reading, or listening to music—just enjoy your favorite activities while standing up.
While you stand, you’re also improving your balance, strengthening your legs, and reducing your risk of back pain.
16. Go shopping for 30 minutes.
Enjoy the finer things in life—all while kicking out extra calories.
Whether you need to grab groceries (or you’re just looking to enjoy an afternoon at the boutiques), shopping involves walking, lifting, and lugging around bags full of awesome finds. In short: yes, shopping is a bit of a workout!
And while you pick out your dream pair of shoes, you'll be doing more than boosting your physical health. Shopping can actually boost your mood in the moment and over time, too.
17. Do yoga for 31 minutes.
Improve your mindfulness, relax your body, and burn calories with yoga.
Though this exercise takes a little more time, there are tons of other amazing benefits. Yoga can increase mindfulness—which will help you feel more emotionally resilient and can even boost your mood. Plus, yoga is super accessible if you’re just getting started. But at the same time, there are always new ways to challenge your body if you’re a long-time enthusiast.
Yoga can actually make you better at self-care, emotional regulation, and managing stress. Plus, it promotes heart health, balance, strength, and hip flexibility too.
18. Massage your partner for 35 minutes.
Earn brownie points with your partner while getting in a mini workout.
Massaging uses your upper body and hand muscles—and if you’re giving a higher-pressure massage, you’ll need to use all your strength! Try a shoulder or deep tissue massage, and rack up the health benefits while you do it.
Not only can giving a massage benefit your health, but it has major positive effects for the recipient, too. Pain reduction, improved circulation, and reduced anxiety, for instance, are in your partner's future.
19. Clean for 30-40 minutes.
Give your pad a fresh look while getting in a nice workout, too.
Different cleaning jobs will burn calories at different rates—but no matter which one you choose, you’ll be doing your body a favor. Choosing heavier duty jobs (ones that require lifting, kneeling, and scrubbing) if you’re looking for a more rigorous workout sesh. Or, if you’re happy to burn your calories a little slower, dusting, vacuuming, and dishwashing still involve a surprising amount of action.
Plus, a clean house will lower your stress levels, help you get sick less, and improve your respiratory health. Basically, this option is a total win-win-win!
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Jump rope for 8 minutes.\\nJump roping\\nYou loved it as a kid, and now as an adult, you’ll love what it does for your body! Grab a jump rope and hop for 8 minutes straight to burn 100 calories. Or, if you’re looking for a more challenging workout, try alternating on one leg at a time for 30 seconds, back and forth.\\nNot only is jumping rope fun, but it’s also a great way to improve your cardio fitness through high-intensity exercise and strengthen your bones, too!\\n2. Kickbox for 10 minutes.\\nPunch, smack, and whack your way to an amazing workout.\\nKickboxing is a truly killer workout and that's gained popularity in recent days, too. This is considered a high-intensity workout, meaning it's a great choice if you're looking for a major challenge. Try out a local class at your recreation center or head online and find a beginner's class there.\\nNot only is kickboxing a great way to burn calories, but it also improves muscle power, agility, and flexibility.\\n3. Run for 10 minutes.\\nA nice jog can leave you feeling refreshed—and burn calories quickly.\\nThe amount of calories you’ll burn running depends on how much ground you cover, and typically, 1 mile equals about 100 calories. So if you’d rather take it slow, no worries. Or if you’re pressed for time, head out for a quick sprint instead! And luckily, it's super easy to get started as a beginner; just progress at your own pace, and work up to higher speeds gradually.\\nRunning isn’t just a great way to burn calories. This exercise is also super connected to longevity and fighting off chronic disease; so every time you lace up those running shoes, you’re keeping yourself healthier for longer, too.\\n4. Play tennis for 11 minutes.\\nGame, set, match your way to an endorphin rush.\\nGrab your racket, ball, and a pal and get yourself down to the court! Or, if you don’t have anyone to play with waiting on deck, hit balls against your garage door (if it’s sturdy enough to handle your wicked forehand, that is!). Playing tennis involves tons of sprinting and it'll wear out your arms too, so it’s a great way to burn energy in a jiff.\\nNot only does tennis burn 100 calories in 11 minutes, but it’ll also increase your anaerobic health, lower your blood pressure, improve your metabolism, and strengthen your muscles.\\n5. Bike for 12 minutes.\\nCycling\\nIf you take your bike out for a casual spin, you’re likely to burn 100 calories in around 12 minutes. So why not leave the car in the driveway? Try biking to work, a friend’s, or the store to seamlessly weave an extra workout into your schedule.\\nFlexibility, weight loss, bone strength, and improved mental health are just a few health benefits linked to cycling.\\n6. Play basketball for 12 minutes.\\nEnjoy a fun pick up game and sweat it out in the process.\\nBasketball can be a super exciting way to bond with friends, fill and afternoon, and fine-tune your skills. If you’re playing a full game against some opponents, then you’ll be doing a ton of running back and forth, too (hello, extra calories!). But even if you’re just shooting by yourself, that still burns around 100 calories in 20 minutes.\\nPlus, basketball isn’t just a great way to burn calories. You’ll also find that your coordination, muscle strength, and endurance improve, too—on top of that, basketball is thought to improve players’ concentration as well.\\n7. Rollerblade for 12 minutes.\\nHave fun, feel the breeze, and scorch calories on your favorite skates.\\nWe all know that rollerblading looks amazing, but did you know that it’s also a great workout? Head out to your favorite cement path or skate park and get moving. For even more fun, grab some friends and pick a spot with great views!\\nRollerblading isn’t just great for your leg and glute muscles—while you keep yourself upright using your arms and legs, you’re strengthening those regions, too!\\n8. Swim for 13 minutes.\\nSay goodbye to those calories with a quick, refreshing swim.\\nSwimming at a casual pace will burn 100 calories in just 13 minutes, so it’s a super effective workout. If you’re new to swimming and need a little help getting into the swing of things, try starting out using fins. More of a social exerciser? Try treading water with a pal and burn 11 calories per minute.\\nNot only is swimming a great calorie burner, but it’s also a great full-body workout. Plus, it can build your endurance, strength, and cardio fitness.\\n9. Do bodyweight workouts for 14 minutes.\\nBuild muscle and break a sweat without heading to the gym.\\nBodyweight workouts are the perfect combination of effective and convenient. You have tons of options, too. Try pushups, throw in some crunches, challenge yourself with squats, or build muscle with knee ups. In general, doing bodyweight workouts will burn different amounts of calories, but no matter which one you pick, your body's bound to benefit.\\nIn addition to the standard health benefits of a great workout, bodyweight exercises are great because you can start at your own speed. Add weight if you need to and feel free to quit whenever your body's had enough (and give it another try tomorrow. You've got this!).\\n10. Walk stairs for 14 minutes.\\nSkip the elevator and burn a few extra calories.\\nSimple habit tweaks can make a huge difference for your daily calories burned. Do you take an elevator up to work, school, or activities every day? Try the stairs instead—walking up the steps burns around 100 calories in 14 minutes. Plus, run up the steps instead and you’ll be able to kick those calories even quicker.\\nEvery time you take the stairs, you’re improving your bone and muscle health. Plus, you’re achieving this without any extra (expensive) workout equipment!\\n11. Dance for 15 minutes.\\nWho says that working out has to be boring?\\nGrab a friend, plug in your favorite playlist, and get grooving. Dancing is a great way to burn calories without even realizing it—and though it definitely depends on how you’re moving, you can burn 100 calories in just 15 minutes. Throw in little jigs throughout the day or, if you want to kick those cals even quicker, use dumbbells or ankle weights while you dance it out.\\nFun fact: dancing isn’t just great for the body. It can also reduce risk of dementia and improve your memory, too.\\n12. Elliptical for 18 minutes.\\nBust it on the elliptical machine for a quick, effective workout.\\nPlus, ellipticals are known for being a great workout for beginners—if you’re new to the gym and aren’t sure where to start, hop on one of these machines.\\nOn top of that, the elliptical is easy on your joints and uses your whole body, too. All in all, it’s a great pick to sweat it out!\\n13. Garden for 20 minutes.\\nYou read that right—a green thumb can help you burn major calories.\\nExercise doesn’t have to mean sweating buckets and lifting weights. Pull out those garden sheers instead! When you think about it, gardening does involve a lot of crouching, lifting, leaning, and digging. And all of those little movements add up to a decent calorie total.\\nPlus, gardening can actually increase your self esteem, increase heart health, and improve hand strength. The more you know!\\n14. Walk for 22 minutes.\\nEnjoy a nice, relaxing stroll and chat with a pal.\\nWho said working out had to be a total pain? Go out for a lovely, brisk walk while you burn major calories. Choose somewhere beautiful in nature, and you’ll reap some amazing mental health benefits, too. Plus, you can always burn calories faster by creating a more difficult walk. Hold some light weights, or walk on an incline instead.\\nWalking can help you lose weight, increase your energy levels, reduce stress, and strengthen your bones.\\n15. Stand up for 30 minutes.\\nGet up off your seat, and burn calories without a second thought.\\nHave you ever wanted to scorch the day’s calorie load without having to try? We’ve got the solution right here. Stand on your feet for an extra 30 minutes during the day, and that’s 100 calories burned. Whether you’re watching TV, working, reading, or listening to music—just enjoy your favorite activities while standing up.\\nWhile you stand, you’re also improving your balance, strengthening your legs, and reducing your risk of back pain.\\n16. Go shopping for 30 minutes.\\nEnjoy the finer things in life—all while kicking out extra calories.\\nWhether you need to grab groceries (or you’re just looking to enjoy an afternoon at the boutiques), shopping involves walking, lifting, and lugging around bags full of awesome finds. In short: yes, shopping is a bit of a workout!\\nAnd while you pick out your dream pair of shoes, you'll be doing more than boosting your physical health. Shopping can actually boost your mood in the moment and over time, too.\\n17. Do yoga for 31 minutes.\\nImprove your mindfulness, relax your body, and burn calories with yoga.\\nThough this exercise takes a little more time, there are tons of other amazing benefits. Yoga can increase mindfulness—which will help you feel more emotionally resilient and can even boost your mood. Plus, yoga is super accessible if you’re just getting started. But at the same time, there are always new ways to challenge your body if you’re a long-time enthusiast.\\nYoga can actually make you better at self-care, emotional regulation, and managing stress. Plus, it promotes heart health, balance, strength, and hip flexibility too.\\n18. Massage your partner for 35 minutes.\\nEarn brownie points with your partner while getting in a mini workout.\\nMassaging uses your upper body and hand muscles—and if you’re giving a higher-pressure massage, you’ll need to use all your strength! Try a shoulder or deep tissue massage, and rack up the health benefits while you do it.\\nNot only can giving a massage benefit your health, but it has major positive effects for the recipient, too. Pain reduction, improved circulation, and reduced anxiety, for instance, are in your partner's future.\\n19. Clean for 30-40 minutes.\\nGive your pad a fresh look while getting in a nice workout, too.\\nDifferent cleaning jobs will burn calories at different rates—but no matter which one you choose, you’ll be doing your body a favor. Choosing heavier duty jobs (ones that require lifting, kneeling, and scrubbing) if you’re looking for a more rigorous workout sesh. Or, if you’re happy to burn your calories a little slower, dusting, vacuuming, and dishwashing still involve a surprising amount of action.\\nPlus, a clean house will lower your stress levels, help you get sick less, and improve your respiratory health. Basically, this option is a total win-win-win!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A quick exercise can leave you feeling empowered, confident, and more energetic—plus, if choose the right workout, and you can zap 100 calories like that. From fun to intense to productive, we’ve listed all the best workout options below. Plus, we’ll offer bonus health benefits and insider tips, too. Ready to knock out 100 calories quick? Read on for everything you need to know.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Jump rope for 8 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Jump roping\", \"描述\": \"You loved it as a kid, and now as an adult, you’ll love what it does for your body! Grab a jump rope and hop for 8 minutes straight to burn 100 calories. Or, if you’re looking for a more challenging workout, try alternating on one leg at a time for 30 seconds, back and forth.\\nNot only is jumping rope fun, but it’s also a great way to improve your cardio fitness through high-intensity exercise and strengthen your bones, too!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Kickbox for 10 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Punch, smack, and whack your way to an amazing workout.\", \"描述\": \"Kickboxing is a truly killer workout and that's gained popularity in recent days, too. This is considered a high-intensity workout, meaning it's a great choice if you're looking for a major challenge. Try out a local class at your recreation center or head online and find a beginner's class there.\\nNot only is kickboxing a great way to burn calories, but it also improves muscle power, agility, and flexibility.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Run for 10 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A nice jog can leave you feeling refreshed—and burn calories quickly.\", \"描述\": \"The amount of calories you’ll burn running depends on how much ground you cover, and typically, 1 mile equals about 100 calories. So if you’d rather take it slow, no worries. Or if you’re pressed for time, head out for a quick sprint instead! And luckily, it's super easy to get started as a beginner; just progress at your own pace, and work up to higher speeds gradually.\\nRunning isn’t just a great way to burn calories. This exercise is also super connected to longevity and fighting off chronic disease; so every time you lace up those running shoes, you’re keeping yourself healthier for longer, too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Play tennis for 11 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Game, set, match your way to an endorphin rush.\", \"描述\": \"Grab your racket, ball, and a pal and get yourself down to the court! Or, if you don’t have anyone to play with waiting on deck, hit balls against your garage door (if it’s sturdy enough to handle your wicked forehand, that is!). Playing tennis involves tons of sprinting and it'll wear out your arms too, so it’s a great way to burn energy in a jiff.\\nNot only does tennis burn 100 calories in 11 minutes, but it’ll also increase your anaerobic health, lower your blood pressure, improve your metabolism, and strengthen your muscles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Bike for 12 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cycling\", \"描述\": \"If you take your bike out for a casual spin, you’re likely to burn 100 calories in around 12 minutes. So why not leave the car in the driveway? Try biking to work, a friend’s, or the store to seamlessly weave an extra workout into your schedule.\\nFlexibility, weight loss, bone strength, and improved mental health are just a few health benefits linked to cycling.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Play basketball for 12 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Enjoy a fun pick up game and sweat it out in the process.\", \"描述\": \"Basketball can be a super exciting way to bond with friends, fill and afternoon, and fine-tune your skills. If you’re playing a full game against some opponents, then you’ll be doing a ton of running back and forth, too (hello, extra calories!). But even if you’re just shooting by yourself, that still burns around 100 calories in 20 minutes.\\nPlus, basketball isn’t just a great way to burn calories. You’ll also find that your coordination, muscle strength, and endurance improve, too—on top of that, basketball is thought to improve players’ concentration as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Rollerblade for 12 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Have fun, feel the breeze, and scorch calories on your favorite skates.\", \"描述\": \"We all know that rollerblading looks amazing, but did you know that it’s also a great workout? Head out to your favorite cement path or skate park and get moving. For even more fun, grab some friends and pick a spot with great views!\\nRollerblading isn’t just great for your leg and glute muscles—while you keep yourself upright using your arms and legs, you’re strengthening those regions, too!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Swim for 13 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Say goodbye to those calories with a quick, refreshing swim.\", \"描述\": \"Swimming at a casual pace will burn 100 calories in just 13 minutes, so it’s a super effective workout. If you’re new to swimming and need a little help getting into the swing of things, try starting out using fins. More of a social exerciser? Try treading water with a pal and burn 11 calories per minute.\\nNot only is swimming a great calorie burner, but it’s also a great full-body workout. Plus, it can build your endurance, strength, and cardio fitness.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Do bodyweight workouts for 14 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build muscle and break a sweat without heading to the gym.\", \"描述\": \"Bodyweight workouts are the perfect combination of effective and convenient. You have tons of options, too. Try pushups, throw in some crunches, challenge yourself with squats, or build muscle with knee ups. In general, doing bodyweight workouts will burn different amounts of calories, but no matter which one you pick, your body's bound to benefit.\\nIn addition to the standard health benefits of a great workout, bodyweight exercises are great because you can start at your own speed. Add weight if you need to and feel free to quit whenever your body's had enough (and give it another try tomorrow. You've got this!).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Walk stairs for 14 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Skip the elevator and burn a few extra calories.\", \"描述\": \"Simple habit tweaks can make a huge difference for your daily calories burned. Do you take an elevator up to work, school, or activities every day? Try the stairs instead—walking up the steps burns around 100 calories in 14 minutes. Plus, run up the steps instead and you’ll be able to kick those calories even quicker.\\nEvery time you take the stairs, you’re improving your bone and muscle health. Plus, you’re achieving this without any extra (expensive) workout equipment!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Dance for 15 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Who says that working out has to be boring?\", \"描述\": \"Grab a friend, plug in your favorite playlist, and get grooving. Dancing is a great way to burn calories without even realizing it—and though it definitely depends on how you’re moving, you can burn 100 calories in just 15 minutes. Throw in little jigs throughout the day or, if you want to kick those cals even quicker, use dumbbells or ankle weights while you dance it out.\\nFun fact: dancing isn’t just great for the body. It can also reduce risk of dementia and improve your memory, too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Elliptical for 18 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bust it on the elliptical machine for a quick, effective workout.\", \"描述\": \"Plus, ellipticals are known for being a great workout for beginners—if you’re new to the gym and aren’t sure where to start, hop on one of these machines.\\nOn top of that, the elliptical is easy on your joints and uses your whole body, too. All in all, it’s a great pick to sweat it out!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Garden for 20 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You read that right—a green thumb can help you burn major calories.\", \"描述\": \"Exercise doesn’t have to mean sweating buckets and lifting weights. Pull out those garden sheers instead! When you think about it, gardening does involve a lot of crouching, lifting, leaning, and digging. And all of those little movements add up to a decent calorie total.\\nPlus, gardening can actually increase your self esteem, increase heart health, and improve hand strength. The more you know!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Walk for 22 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Enjoy a nice, relaxing stroll and chat with a pal.\", \"描述\": \"Who said working out had to be a total pain? Go out for a lovely, brisk walk while you burn major calories. Choose somewhere beautiful in nature, and you’ll reap some amazing mental health benefits, too. Plus, you can always burn calories faster by creating a more difficult walk. Hold some light weights, or walk on an incline instead.\\nWalking can help you lose weight, increase your energy levels, reduce stress, and strengthen your bones.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Stand up for 30 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get up off your seat, and burn calories without a second thought.\", \"描述\": \"Have you ever wanted to scorch the day’s calorie load without having to try? We’ve got the solution right here. Stand on your feet for an extra 30 minutes during the day, and that’s 100 calories burned. Whether you’re watching TV, working, reading, or listening to music—just enjoy your favorite activities while standing up.\\nWhile you stand, you’re also improving your balance, strengthening your legs, and reducing your risk of back pain.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Go shopping for 30 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Enjoy the finer things in life—all while kicking out extra calories.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you need to grab groceries (or you’re just looking to enjoy an afternoon at the boutiques), shopping involves walking, lifting, and lugging around bags full of awesome finds. In short: yes, shopping is a bit of a workout!\\nAnd while you pick out your dream pair of shoes, you'll be doing more than boosting your physical health. Shopping can actually boost your mood in the moment and over time, too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Do yoga for 31 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Improve your mindfulness, relax your body, and burn calories with yoga.\", \"描述\": \"Though this exercise takes a little more time, there are tons of other amazing benefits. Yoga can increase mindfulness—which will help you feel more emotionally resilient and can even boost your mood. Plus, yoga is super accessible if you’re just getting started. But at the same time, there are always new ways to challenge your body if you’re a long-time enthusiast.\\nYoga can actually make you better at self-care, emotional regulation, and managing stress. Plus, it promotes heart health, balance, strength, and hip flexibility too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Massage your partner for 35 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Earn brownie points with your partner while getting in a mini workout.\", \"描述\": \"Massaging uses your upper body and hand muscles—and if you’re giving a higher-pressure massage, you’ll need to use all your strength! Try a shoulder or deep tissue massage, and rack up the health benefits while you do it.\\nNot only can giving a massage benefit your health, but it has major positive effects for the recipient, too. Pain reduction, improved circulation, and reduced anxiety, for instance, are in your partner's future.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Clean for 30-40 minutes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give your pad a fresh look while getting in a nice workout, too.\", \"描述\": \"Different cleaning jobs will burn calories at different rates—but no matter which one you choose, you’ll be doing your body a favor. Choosing heavier duty jobs (ones that require lifting, kneeling, and scrubbing) if you’re looking for a more rigorous workout sesh. Or, if you’re happy to burn your calories a little slower, dusting, vacuuming, and dishwashing still involve a surprising amount of action.\\nPlus, a clean house will lower your stress levels, help you get sick less, and improve your respiratory health. Basically, this option is a total win-win-win!\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,702 |
How to Burn 1000 Calories at the Gym
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1. Doing Intensive Exercise
1-1. Perform interval training with sprints.
Circuit training is highly effective in burning lots of calories in a short period of time. So if you can’t spend a lot of time at the gym, adding in 30-second sprints to your running routine will blast more calories than running at a steady pace. If you’re a beginner or have a condition that prevents you from high-intensity exercise, lower the intensity for each segment—that is, jog instead of run and run instead of sprint. You’ll need to extend the duration of the workout to burn close to 1,000 calories. The following 30-minute routine is a standard example of interval training, so you may need to adjust the length or intensity to burn 1,000 calories:
3 minutes of jogging (warm-up)
5 minutes of running
1 minute of sprinting
3 minutes of running
1 minute of sprinting
5 minutes of running
1 minute of sprinting
3 minutes of running
1 minute of sprinting
3 minutes of running
3 minutes of jogging (cool down)
1 minute of brisk walking (final cool down)
Depending on your weight and fitness level, do this routine once or twice to burn 1,000 calories.
1-2. Sign up for a group class at your local gym.
Exercise classes are a great option if you struggle to stay motivated for longer, more intense workouts. They’re also great if you’re not sure where to start. Instructors can guide you through various moves and keep you amped up to sweat. Look for classes at your local gym according to your current level of fitness.
If you are new to exercise, start with a beginner’s course then, work your way up to intermediate and advanced courses over the next month or two.
Look for classes that you’ll enjoy, like dancing, spinning, or kick-boxing.
Sign up with a friend or family member to keep both of you motivated and accountable.
1-3. Add vertical resistance to burn more calories.
Walking, jogging, or running at an incline burns more calories than on a flat surface. Climbing stairs or using a stair step machine is a great way to blast calories, build muscle, and tone your lower body. Incorporating hills will also lessen the strain on your knees. Feel free to work vertical resistance training into every workout session or just once or twice a week. Try the following 20-minute treadmill routine:
2 minutes of walking at 5% incline (warm-up)
3 minutes of speed walking at 7% incline
2 minutes of moderate walking at 12% incline
2 minutes of jogging at 7% incline
2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline
2 minutes of moderate walking at 15% incline
2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline
2 minutes of speed walking at 12% incline
3 minutes of walking at 5% incline (cool down)
If you have to lean forward or hold onto the rails, lower the incline to keep proper form and prevent injury.
Depending on your current weight and level of fitness, repeat this routine 2 to 3 times to burn 1,000 calories.
1-4. Perform roughly 30 minutes of strength training 3 times a week.
People who do a combination of strength training and aerobic exercise burn more calories each workout. The more muscle you have, the more calories you’ll burn doing just about anything—even sitting! Alternate between upper body and lower body strength training to allow your muscles time to recover.
For instance, perform squats, lunges, deadlifts, and step-ups on Mondays and do bicep curls, lat raises, tricep dips, and shoulder presses on Wednesdays.
1-5. Perform circuit training with less resting time between sets.
Decreasing your resting time between resistance and aerobic sets keeps your heart rate elevated and will help you burn more calories in less time. Alternate between upper and lower body moves to give your muscles a short break between sets. You can do these intense circuits any time you strength train but you may want to limit it to once or twice a week so your muscles can recover.
For example, perform 60 seconds of squats followed by 30 seconds of pushups. Then do 60 seconds of planking and 60 seconds of lunges. Repeat this routine for 3 to 6 rounds.
Include both cardio and strength training into your circuit routines. For instance, jump rope for 60 seconds between each set of upper or lower body weight training.
1-6. Run at a pace of 8 mph for 60 minutes during your cardio workout.
Running for a whole hour at a speed of 8 mph burns around 1,000 calories if you weigh 200 pounds (91 kg). If you weigh less but still want to keep your time at the gym around an hour long, you may need to run a bit faster. Alternatively, you can run for a longer period of time at a slower pace. If you weigh more, you’ll burn more calories due to your basal metabolic rate (BMR), so you can run at a slower pace or for less time.
Men’s BMR = 66 + (13.8 x weight in kg) + (5 x height in cm) - (6.8 x age in years).
Women’s BMR = 655 + (9.6 x weight in kg) + (1.8 x height in cm) - (4.7 x age in years).
If you’re exercising on a treadmill, enter your weight into the machine (if applicable) to track how many calories you’re burning.
Use an online calorie-burn calculator to find out how many calories you’re burning doing various exercises. You’ll need to enter your age, height, and weight, and the type and duration of your exercise.
1-7. Use an app to track how many calories you’re burning.
Activity-tracking or fitness apps are a great way to keep you motivated and log your progress at the gym. My Fitness Pal, Fitbit Coach, and Keelo are just a few apps (among many) that you can choose from. Some workout apps will offer routines based on how many calories you want to burn and will tailor your workout to that goal.
Keep in mind that calorie-tracking apps aren’t always accurate, even with the correct biometrics (your age, height, and weight).
Some apps (like FIT Radio and RockMyRun) will tailor your workout music to your pace to keep you amped up and in the zone.
2. Fueling Your Workouts
2-1. Eat lean protein at each meal.
Protein helps build lean muscle mass, which means you’ll be burning more calories throughout the day. Choose lean proteins like poultry, fish, lean ground beef, eggs, beans, and legumes. Eat 1.6 to 1.8 grams of protein for every 1 pound of bodyweight to build muscle.
For example, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), aim to get 10.1 oz (288 g) to 11.4 oz (324 g) of protein each day.
2-2. Power up with macronutrients before your workouts.
Eating complex carbohydrates, protein, and a little bit of fat before your workouts will keep you energized the whole way through. Choose whole grains like rice, quinoa, and oats and stick to healthy fats like avocado, olive oil, and nuts.
Eat snacks and small meals 1 to 3 hours before a workout to help you power through it. For instance, have a 200 to 250 calorie smoothie or a piece of fruit with 2 tbsp. (28 g) of nut butter.
Avoid eating larger or heavier meals (over 600 calories) 1 or 2 hours before a workout so you don’t get cramps or feel sluggish. For example, eating a large portion of meaty curry with rice and dessert is not a good idea before hitting the gym.
2-3. Drink water before, during, and after your workout.
Burning 1,000 calories means you’ll be sweating a lot, so it’s important to replace all that lost water. Aim to drink a number of fluid ounces equal to half your weight in pounds. For instance, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), you should be drinking 90 fluid ounces (2,700 mL) of water daily—and more on the days that you exercise intensely.
Drink at 2 cups (470 mL) to 3 cups (710 mL) of water within 2 to 3 hours before your workout and within 2 to 3 hours after your workout.
Drink ⁄2 cup (120 mL) to 1 cup (240 mL) of water every 20 minutes of your workout.
If you’re exercising for over an hour, electrolyte-rich sports drinks are a good option to stay hydrated and give you more energy mid-way through.
2-4. Caffeinate about 30 minutes before you exercise.
Drinking 1 or 2 cups of coffee has shown to increase the number of calories you burn during a workout. Plus, you’ll get a boost of energy to help you power through more intense routines. Just avoid sugary blended drinks as these might cause you to have a sugar crash.
If you don’t drink coffee, opt for yerba mate or black, green, or white tea.
2-5. Eat foods containing capsaicin to boost your metabolic burn.
Capsaicin stimulates your metabolism, causing you to burn more calories in and out of the gym. Chili peppers, jalapeño peppers, red peppers, and cayenne are all great sources of capsaicin.
Turmeric spice also contains capsaicin and will help with any sore muscles or inflammation that might result after a hard workout.
If you’re sensitive to spicy foods, avoid eating them at all. Turmeric, ginger, and garlic have similar properties, so feel free to eat those instead spicy foods.
Avoid eating spicy foods within 2 hours of exercising. Working out with heartburn and indigestion is uncomfortable and might cause you to abandon your workout.
Tips
Take breaks if you need to.
If possible, walk or jog to the gym to count toward your 1,000 calorie goal.
Warnings
Talk to your doctor before starting any new exercise program.
Stay hydrated at the gym.
If you feel lightheaded, dizzy, faint, or short of breath, stop exercising immediately.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Doing Intensive Exercise\\n1-1. Perform interval training with sprints.\\nCircuit training is highly effective in burning lots of calories in a short period of time. So if you can’t spend a lot of time at the gym, adding in 30-second sprints to your running routine will blast more calories than running at a steady pace. If you’re a beginner or have a condition that prevents you from high-intensity exercise, lower the intensity for each segment—that is, jog instead of run and run instead of sprint. You’ll need to extend the duration of the workout to burn close to 1,000 calories. The following 30-minute routine is a standard example of interval training, so you may need to adjust the length or intensity to burn 1,000 calories:\\n3 minutes of jogging (warm-up)\\n5 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n5 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n3 minutes of jogging (cool down)\\n1 minute of brisk walking (final cool down)\\nDepending on your weight and fitness level, do this routine once or twice to burn 1,000 calories.\\n1-2. Sign up for a group class at your local gym.\\nExercise classes are a great option if you struggle to stay motivated for longer, more intense workouts. They’re also great if you’re not sure where to start. Instructors can guide you through various moves and keep you amped up to sweat. Look for classes at your local gym according to your current level of fitness.\\nIf you are new to exercise, start with a beginner’s course then, work your way up to intermediate and advanced courses over the next month or two.\\nLook for classes that you’ll enjoy, like dancing, spinning, or kick-boxing.\\nSign up with a friend or family member to keep both of you motivated and accountable.\\n1-3. Add vertical resistance to burn more calories.\\nWalking, jogging, or running at an incline burns more calories than on a flat surface. Climbing stairs or using a stair step machine is a great way to blast calories, build muscle, and tone your lower body. Incorporating hills will also lessen the strain on your knees. Feel free to work vertical resistance training into every workout session or just once or twice a week. Try the following 20-minute treadmill routine:\\n2 minutes of walking at 5% incline (warm-up)\\n3 minutes of speed walking at 7% incline\\n2 minutes of moderate walking at 12% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 7% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline\\n2 minutes of moderate walking at 15% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline\\n2 minutes of speed walking at 12% incline\\n3 minutes of walking at 5% incline (cool down)\\nIf you have to lean forward or hold onto the rails, lower the incline to keep proper form and prevent injury.\\nDepending on your current weight and level of fitness, repeat this routine 2 to 3 times to burn 1,000 calories.\\n1-4. Perform roughly 30 minutes of strength training 3 times a week.\\nPeople who do a combination of strength training and aerobic exercise burn more calories each workout. The more muscle you have, the more calories you’ll burn doing just about anything—even sitting! Alternate between upper body and lower body strength training to allow your muscles time to recover.\\nFor instance, perform squats, lunges, deadlifts, and step-ups on Mondays and do bicep curls, lat raises, tricep dips, and shoulder presses on Wednesdays.\\n1-5. Perform circuit training with less resting time between sets.\\nDecreasing your resting time between resistance and aerobic sets keeps your heart rate elevated and will help you burn more calories in less time. Alternate between upper and lower body moves to give your muscles a short break between sets. You can do these intense circuits any time you strength train but you may want to limit it to once or twice a week so your muscles can recover.\\nFor example, perform 60 seconds of squats followed by 30 seconds of pushups. Then do 60 seconds of planking and 60 seconds of lunges. Repeat this routine for 3 to 6 rounds.\\nInclude both cardio and strength training into your circuit routines. For instance, jump rope for 60 seconds between each set of upper or lower body weight training.\\n1-6. Run at a pace of 8 mph for 60 minutes during your cardio workout.\\nRunning for a whole hour at a speed of 8 mph burns around 1,000 calories if you weigh 200 pounds (91 kg). If you weigh less but still want to keep your time at the gym around an hour long, you may need to run a bit faster. Alternatively, you can run for a longer period of time at a slower pace. If you weigh more, you’ll burn more calories due to your basal metabolic rate (BMR), so you can run at a slower pace or for less time.\\nMen’s BMR = 66 + (13.8 x weight in kg) + (5 x height in cm) - (6.8 x age in years).\\nWomen’s BMR = 655 + (9.6 x weight in kg) + (1.8 x height in cm) - (4.7 x age in years).\\nIf you’re exercising on a treadmill, enter your weight into the machine (if applicable) to track how many calories you’re burning.\\nUse an online calorie-burn calculator to find out how many calories you’re burning doing various exercises. You’ll need to enter your age, height, and weight, and the type and duration of your exercise.\\n1-7. Use an app to track how many calories you’re burning.\\nActivity-tracking or fitness apps are a great way to keep you motivated and log your progress at the gym. My Fitness Pal, Fitbit Coach, and Keelo are just a few apps (among many) that you can choose from. Some workout apps will offer routines based on how many calories you want to burn and will tailor your workout to that goal.\\nKeep in mind that calorie-tracking apps aren’t always accurate, even with the correct biometrics (your age, height, and weight).\\nSome apps (like FIT Radio and RockMyRun) will tailor your workout music to your pace to keep you amped up and in the zone.\\n2. Fueling Your Workouts\\n2-1. Eat lean protein at each meal.\\nProtein helps build lean muscle mass, which means you’ll be burning more calories throughout the day. Choose lean proteins like poultry, fish, lean ground beef, eggs, beans, and legumes. Eat 1.6 to 1.8 grams of protein for every 1 pound of bodyweight to build muscle.\\nFor example, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), aim to get 10.1 oz (288 g) to 11.4 oz (324 g) of protein each day.\\n2-2. Power up with macronutrients before your workouts.\\nEating complex carbohydrates, protein, and a little bit of fat before your workouts will keep you energized the whole way through. Choose whole grains like rice, quinoa, and oats and stick to healthy fats like avocado, olive oil, and nuts.\\nEat snacks and small meals 1 to 3 hours before a workout to help you power through it. For instance, have a 200 to 250 calorie smoothie or a piece of fruit with 2 tbsp. (28 g) of nut butter.\\nAvoid eating larger or heavier meals (over 600 calories) 1 or 2 hours before a workout so you don’t get cramps or feel sluggish. For example, eating a large portion of meaty curry with rice and dessert is not a good idea before hitting the gym.\\n2-3. Drink water before, during, and after your workout.\\nBurning 1,000 calories means you’ll be sweating a lot, so it’s important to replace all that lost water. Aim to drink a number of fluid ounces equal to half your weight in pounds. For instance, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), you should be drinking 90 fluid ounces (2,700 mL) of water daily—and more on the days that you exercise intensely.\\nDrink at 2 cups (470 mL) to 3 cups (710 mL) of water within 2 to 3 hours before your workout and within 2 to 3 hours after your workout.\\nDrink ⁄2 cup (120 mL) to 1 cup (240 mL) of water every 20 minutes of your workout.\\nIf you’re exercising for over an hour, electrolyte-rich sports drinks are a good option to stay hydrated and give you more energy mid-way through.\\n2-4. Caffeinate about 30 minutes before you exercise.\\nDrinking 1 or 2 cups of coffee has shown to increase the number of calories you burn during a workout. Plus, you’ll get a boost of energy to help you power through more intense routines. Just avoid sugary blended drinks as these might cause you to have a sugar crash.\\nIf you don’t drink coffee, opt for yerba mate or black, green, or white tea.\\n2-5. Eat foods containing capsaicin to boost your metabolic burn.\\nCapsaicin stimulates your metabolism, causing you to burn more calories in and out of the gym. Chili peppers, jalapeño peppers, red peppers, and cayenne are all great sources of capsaicin.\\nTurmeric spice also contains capsaicin and will help with any sore muscles or inflammation that might result after a hard workout.\\nIf you’re sensitive to spicy foods, avoid eating them at all. Turmeric, ginger, and garlic have similar properties, so feel free to eat those instead spicy foods.\\nAvoid eating spicy foods within 2 hours of exercising. Working out with heartburn and indigestion is uncomfortable and might cause you to abandon your workout.\\nTips\\nTake breaks if you need to.\\nIf possible, walk or jog to the gym to count toward your 1,000 calorie goal.\\nWarnings\\nTalk to your doctor before starting any new exercise program.\\nStay hydrated at the gym.\\nIf you feel lightheaded, dizzy, faint, or short of breath, stop exercising immediately.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Burning 1,000 calories at the gym will definitely work up a sweat, but if you try, you can get the job done. The number of calories you burn while exercising depends on how much you weigh and your metabolic rate, so you’ll need to take those factors into consideration. The best ways to blast calories fast are going to be by doing lots of cardio, interval training, and strength (or resistance) training. Whether you want to lose weight, tone up, or increase your cardiovascular fitness, you should always check in with your doctor before starting any new fitness regimen.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Doing Intensive Exercise\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Perform interval training with sprints.\", \"描述\": \"Circuit training is highly effective in burning lots of calories in a short period of time. So if you can’t spend a lot of time at the gym, adding in 30-second sprints to your running routine will blast more calories than running at a steady pace. If you’re a beginner or have a condition that prevents you from high-intensity exercise, lower the intensity for each segment—that is, jog instead of run and run instead of sprint. You’ll need to extend the duration of the workout to burn close to 1,000 calories. The following 30-minute routine is a standard example of interval training, so you may need to adjust the length or intensity to burn 1,000 calories:\\n3 minutes of jogging (warm-up)\\n5 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n5 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n1 minute of sprinting\\n3 minutes of running\\n3 minutes of jogging (cool down)\\n1 minute of brisk walking (final cool down)\\nDepending on your weight and fitness level, do this routine once or twice to burn 1,000 calories.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sign up for a group class at your local gym.\", \"描述\": \"Exercise classes are a great option if you struggle to stay motivated for longer, more intense workouts. They’re also great if you’re not sure where to start. Instructors can guide you through various moves and keep you amped up to sweat. Look for classes at your local gym according to your current level of fitness.\\nIf you are new to exercise, start with a beginner’s course then, work your way up to intermediate and advanced courses over the next month or two.\\nLook for classes that you’ll enjoy, like dancing, spinning, or kick-boxing.\\nSign up with a friend or family member to keep both of you motivated and accountable.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add vertical resistance to burn more calories.\", \"描述\": \"Walking, jogging, or running at an incline burns more calories than on a flat surface. Climbing stairs or using a stair step machine is a great way to blast calories, build muscle, and tone your lower body. Incorporating hills will also lessen the strain on your knees. Feel free to work vertical resistance training into every workout session or just once or twice a week. Try the following 20-minute treadmill routine:\\n2 minutes of walking at 5% incline (warm-up)\\n3 minutes of speed walking at 7% incline\\n2 minutes of moderate walking at 12% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 7% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline\\n2 minutes of moderate walking at 15% incline\\n2 minutes of jogging at 10% incline\\n2 minutes of speed walking at 12% incline\\n3 minutes of walking at 5% incline (cool down)\\nIf you have to lean forward or hold onto the rails, lower the incline to keep proper form and prevent injury.\\nDepending on your current weight and level of fitness, repeat this routine 2 to 3 times to burn 1,000 calories.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Perform roughly 30 minutes of strength training 3 times a week.\", \"描述\": \"People who do a combination of strength training and aerobic exercise burn more calories each workout. The more muscle you have, the more calories you’ll burn doing just about anything—even sitting! Alternate between upper body and lower body strength training to allow your muscles time to recover.\\nFor instance, perform squats, lunges, deadlifts, and step-ups on Mondays and do bicep curls, lat raises, tricep dips, and shoulder presses on Wednesdays.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Perform circuit training with less resting time between sets.\", \"描述\": \"Decreasing your resting time between resistance and aerobic sets keeps your heart rate elevated and will help you burn more calories in less time. Alternate between upper and lower body moves to give your muscles a short break between sets. You can do these intense circuits any time you strength train but you may want to limit it to once or twice a week so your muscles can recover.\\nFor example, perform 60 seconds of squats followed by 30 seconds of pushups. Then do 60 seconds of planking and 60 seconds of lunges. Repeat this routine for 3 to 6 rounds.\\nInclude both cardio and strength training into your circuit routines. For instance, jump rope for 60 seconds between each set of upper or lower body weight training.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Run at a pace of 8 mph for 60 minutes during your cardio workout.\", \"描述\": \"Running for a whole hour at a speed of 8 mph burns around 1,000 calories if you weigh 200 pounds (91 kg). If you weigh less but still want to keep your time at the gym around an hour long, you may need to run a bit faster. Alternatively, you can run for a longer period of time at a slower pace. If you weigh more, you’ll burn more calories due to your basal metabolic rate (BMR), so you can run at a slower pace or for less time.\\nMen’s BMR = 66 + (13.8 x weight in kg) + (5 x height in cm) - (6.8 x age in years).\\nWomen’s BMR = 655 + (9.6 x weight in kg) + (1.8 x height in cm) - (4.7 x age in years).\\nIf you’re exercising on a treadmill, enter your weight into the machine (if applicable) to track how many calories you’re burning.\\nUse an online calorie-burn calculator to find out how many calories you’re burning doing various exercises. You’ll need to enter your age, height, and weight, and the type and duration of your exercise.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Use an app to track how many calories you’re burning.\", \"描述\": \"Activity-tracking or fitness apps are a great way to keep you motivated and log your progress at the gym. My Fitness Pal, Fitbit Coach, and Keelo are just a few apps (among many) that you can choose from. Some workout apps will offer routines based on how many calories you want to burn and will tailor your workout to that goal.\\nKeep in mind that calorie-tracking apps aren’t always accurate, even with the correct biometrics (your age, height, and weight).\\nSome apps (like FIT Radio and RockMyRun) will tailor your workout music to your pace to keep you amped up and in the zone.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fueling Your Workouts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Eat lean protein at each meal.\", \"描述\": \"Protein helps build lean muscle mass, which means you’ll be burning more calories throughout the day. Choose lean proteins like poultry, fish, lean ground beef, eggs, beans, and legumes. Eat 1.6 to 1.8 grams of protein for every 1 pound of bodyweight to build muscle.\\nFor example, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), aim to get 10.1 oz (288 g) to 11.4 oz (324 g) of protein each day.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Power up with macronutrients before your workouts.\", \"描述\": \"Eating complex carbohydrates, protein, and a little bit of fat before your workouts will keep you energized the whole way through. Choose whole grains like rice, quinoa, and oats and stick to healthy fats like avocado, olive oil, and nuts.\\nEat snacks and small meals 1 to 3 hours before a workout to help you power through it. For instance, have a 200 to 250 calorie smoothie or a piece of fruit with 2 tbsp. (28 g) of nut butter.\\nAvoid eating larger or heavier meals (over 600 calories) 1 or 2 hours before a workout so you don’t get cramps or feel sluggish. For example, eating a large portion of meaty curry with rice and dessert is not a good idea before hitting the gym.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drink water before, during, and after your workout.\", \"描述\": \"Burning 1,000 calories means you’ll be sweating a lot, so it’s important to replace all that lost water. Aim to drink a number of fluid ounces equal to half your weight in pounds. For instance, if you weigh 180 pounds (82 kg), you should be drinking 90 fluid ounces (2,700 mL) of water daily—and more on the days that you exercise intensely.\\nDrink at 2 cups (470 mL) to 3 cups (710 mL) of water within 2 to 3 hours before your workout and within 2 to 3 hours after your workout.\\nDrink ⁄2 cup (120 mL) to 1 cup (240 mL) of water every 20 minutes of your workout.\\nIf you’re exercising for over an hour, electrolyte-rich sports drinks are a good option to stay hydrated and give you more energy mid-way through.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Caffeinate about 30 minutes before you exercise.\", \"描述\": \"Drinking 1 or 2 cups of coffee has shown to increase the number of calories you burn during a workout. Plus, you’ll get a boost of energy to help you power through more intense routines. Just avoid sugary blended drinks as these might cause you to have a sugar crash.\\nIf you don’t drink coffee, opt for yerba mate or black, green, or white tea.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Eat foods containing capsaicin to boost your metabolic burn.\", \"描述\": \"Capsaicin stimulates your metabolism, causing you to burn more calories in and out of the gym. Chili peppers, jalapeño peppers, red peppers, and cayenne are all great sources of capsaicin.\\nTurmeric spice also contains capsaicin and will help with any sore muscles or inflammation that might result after a hard workout.\\nIf you’re sensitive to spicy foods, avoid eating them at all. Turmeric, ginger, and garlic have similar properties, so feel free to eat those instead spicy foods.\\nAvoid eating spicy foods within 2 hours of exercising. Working out with heartburn and indigestion is uncomfortable and might cause you to abandon your workout.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Take breaks if you need to.\\n\", \"If possible, walk or jog to the gym to count toward your 1,000 calorie goal.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Talk to your doctor before starting any new exercise program.\\n\", \"Stay hydrated at the gym.\\n\", \"If you feel lightheaded, dizzy, faint, or short of breath, stop exercising immediately.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,703 |
How to Burn 20 Pounds Fast
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1. Changing Your Diet
1-1. Control your intake.
One of the primary keys to losing weight quickly is to control what you eat. Decreasing your intake either by controlling portion sizes or counting calories works well for quick weight loss.
Portion control is sometimes the only thing you can control. If you're eating out or subjected to meals controlled by someone else, portions are the one thing you can control every time.
Estimate your calorie intake and usage. Pay attention to what you eat and drink throughout the day, and note amounts of each item as best you can. This can show you how much you currently eat and how many calories you can cut out of your diet safely.
To speed up the process, you can try cutting your calories to the lowest amount of calories that's considered safe for most people — 1200 calories daily. However, this amount may change based on your activity level, gender, and weight.
It's wise to discuss this amount with your doctor to make sure 1200 calories is safe and appropriate for you.
If you cut out about 500 calories daily that generally leads to about one to two pounds of weight loss per week.
Consuming less than 1200 calories daily can put you at risk for nutrient deficiencies and may result in slower weight loss over time.
1-2. Prepare menus and snack ideas that will fit into your calorie goal.
Having a set meal plan can help keep you on track. In addition, it can help keep you on track since you'll know exactly what all your meals and snacks are.
Spend some time coming up with a meal plan for the week. Be sure to include all meals and snacks you plan on eating throughout the day.
You can use online calorie calculators to find out the typical number of calories for foods or meals that you want to include on your diet. Double checking this can help make sure you stay within your calorie limit.
1-3. Follow a low-carb diet.
Studies have shown that low-carb diets result in quicker weight loss compared to low-fat diets or very low-calorie diets. Limit your carbohydrate intake to help reach your desired weight loss goal quickly.
Carbohydrates are found in a variety of foods including: grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, legumes and dairy products.
Low carb diets may have some initial side effects. They are not dangerous or unsafe, but may make you feel a little off. Typically, you may experience headaches, hunger, crankiness or fatigue.
There are a variety of commercial low carb diet plans that are based on different levels of carbohydrates. Find a program that's most appropriate for you if you don't want to design one for yourself.
1-4. Focus on lean protein, fruits and vegetables at most meals.
When you're limiting carbohydrates in your meals and snacks, you'll need to focus on lean protein, vegetables and fruit. This diet pattern will help keep you satisfied and support quick weight loss. You'll also want to incorporate healthy fats into your diet.
Choose lean protein foods at each meal like: pork, eggs, poultry, seafood, lean beef, legumes, nuts and tofu.
Choose a variety of fruits and vegetables daily. Include one to two servings at each meal. Although fruits and some starchy vegetables do contain carbohydrates, they offer you a wide variety of essential nutrients like fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. These are appropriate to include even on a low-carb diet.
Healthy fats include avocado, nuts, seeds, olives, olive oil, and coconut oil.
Examples of meals include: cottage cheese and fruit; lettuce wraps with deli meat and cheese, plus a handful of raw vegetables; kale salad with grilled salmon; or grilled pork tenderloin and mixed vegetables.
1-5. Avoid high-fat foods, added sugars, and processed junk food.
These types of foods are typically higher in calories and can slow or stop your weight loss. In addition, they are also typically lower in essential nutrients like vitamins or minerals.
If you're interested in losing 20 pounds quickly, you'll need to cut out completely or severely limit extra snacks or treats.
Limit foods like: sweets or desserts, chips, crackers, sodas, sweetened coffee drinks or sweetened tea, and pretzels.
Also avoid alcoholic beverages. These do not provide any nutritional value and are only extra calories.
Even if you fit these types of foods into your calorie limit, you may be missing out on key nutrients from other, more healthy foods (like protein, fruits or vegetables). Saving up calories for sweet treats that are lacking in nutrition may slow weight loss.
2. Adding in Physical Activity
2-1. Exercise vigorously.
The best way to lose weight quickly is a calorie controlled diet and exercise. You will need to participate in a fairly intense exercise regimen to burn a significant amount of calories to help you lose 20 pounds quickly.
Vigorous exercise is any activity that significantly raises your heart rate and breathing pace. You shouldn't be able to say more than one or two words at a time without taking a breath. On the perceived exertion scale you should be around a seven or eight out of ten. Level one is sitting and ten is the most intense exercise you could perform.
Set aside about an hour every day. Plan to be active for an hour most days, even if some activities are less strenuous than others.
Moderate intensity activity will also burn calories and support weight loss. However, vigorous intensity activity burns more calories and may help you reach your weight loss goal quicker.
Prior to starting any exercise routine, it's important to meet with your doctor to make sure exercise is safe and appropriate for you.
2-2. Include regular aerobic activity.
You should aim for a minimum of 150 minutes of cardio weekly. However, it's recommended to get up to 300 minutes or five hours weekly for increased weight loss.
Common cardiovascular exercises include running or jogging, swimming laps, dancing, cycling, and certain martial arts. These activities burn differing numbers of calories per hour, but all of them are effective.
2-3. Include weight training.
Strength training is a healthy and highly effective type of exercise for weight loss. It will help increase lean muscle mass, which over time, can increase your body's natural ability to burn calories.
Weight training is invaluable for any weight loss program, because stronger muscles require more energy to operate, which means that they burn more calories.
Include about two days of strength training for at least 20 minutes a session. Exercises include: weight lifting, weight lifting classes, body weight exercises and pilates.
2-4. Plan one to two rest days.
Taking a break from exercising is a crucial part of a workout schedule. Continually working out, especially at vigorous intensities, is a lot of work and stress on your joints, muscles and body.
Rest days help your body recover and can help prevent injury.
Stick to rest days just as religiously as you stick to your workouts.
Rest days should still be active. That means staying off the couch and participating in light, low-impact, low-intensity activities. These can include: restorative yoga, light walking, or a leisurely bike ride.
3. Staying Motivated
3-1. Start a food journal.
Tracking all your foods and meals will not only help you stay on track, but can be motivating to you as well. Seeing how well you've done and well you've stuck to your diet plan is exciting.
Many of us believe we are eating less than we really are. Food journaling is a fool-proof way to ensure that you are holding yourself accountable.
Grab a notebook or download a diary app to your smart phone. Jot down notes about your meals (including calorie intake), exercise, and other measures you're keeping track of.
You can also use your journal as a diary. Taking note of how your diet is making you feel, writing about difficult days, etc.
3-2. Track your progress.
Write down your goal and leave it somewhere you can easily check it again. Underneath your goal, keep a weekly log of how many pounds you've lost or how many inches you've lost.
When you feel like giving up, read over your goal and the progress you've already made. This may be the motivation you need to keep yourself going.
Keeping track of your weight can also provide you with some insight into how well your diet is working or if it's not working. You'll be able to discern when it's time to make a change.
3-3. Leave notes for yourself.
Post sticky notes or taped scraps of paper wherever you will see them often: the bathroom mirror, the refrigerator, even the steering wheel of your car. Write short motivational phrases and reminders on them. They'll give you a bit of a boost throughout the day.
Little positive sayings can help you remember your goal, keep you focused, and help you stay on track.
3-4. Get a partner.
This is especially useful in helping to maintain your exercise schedule. If you have an exercise partner, you have a reason beyond yourself to show up to every session on time.
He or she can give you a boost of enthusiasm when you're not feeling up to your workout.
Your partner can also lend a good ear when you're feeling down or unmotivated with your diet or progress.
3-5. Manage stress
Stress can make it hard to stay on a diet or exercise plan. Managing stress can help you stay motivated and feel energized throughout your diet program.
Extra stress can slow weight loss and even promote weight gain. Getting it under control can help support quicker weight loss.
It's important to find activities to help calm and relax you. Try chatting with friends, going for a walk, listening to music or reading a good book.
Warnings
Beware of diet pills and similar products. They are poorly regulated and often contain substances that are useless in helping you lose weight, like acai extract and willow bark. At worst, these products can cause serious health complications for years before they are pulled off the market. It is better to stick to the tried-and-true technique of combining diet and exercise.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:27",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Changing Your Diet\\n1-1. Control your intake.\\nOne of the primary keys to losing weight quickly is to control what you eat. Decreasing your intake either by controlling portion sizes or counting calories works well for quick weight loss.\\nPortion control is sometimes the only thing you can control. If you're eating out or subjected to meals controlled by someone else, portions are the one thing you can control every time.\\nEstimate your calorie intake and usage. Pay attention to what you eat and drink throughout the day, and note amounts of each item as best you can. This can show you how much you currently eat and how many calories you can cut out of your diet safely.\\nTo speed up the process, you can try cutting your calories to the lowest amount of calories that's considered safe for most people — 1200 calories daily. However, this amount may change based on your activity level, gender, and weight.\\nIt's wise to discuss this amount with your doctor to make sure 1200 calories is safe and appropriate for you.\\nIf you cut out about 500 calories daily that generally leads to about one to two pounds of weight loss per week.\\nConsuming less than 1200 calories daily can put you at risk for nutrient deficiencies and may result in slower weight loss over time.\\n1-2. Prepare menus and snack ideas that will fit into your calorie goal.\\nHaving a set meal plan can help keep you on track. In addition, it can help keep you on track since you'll know exactly what all your meals and snacks are.\\nSpend some time coming up with a meal plan for the week. Be sure to include all meals and snacks you plan on eating throughout the day.\\nYou can use online calorie calculators to find out the typical number of calories for foods or meals that you want to include on your diet. Double checking this can help make sure you stay within your calorie limit.\\n1-3. Follow a low-carb diet.\\nStudies have shown that low-carb diets result in quicker weight loss compared to low-fat diets or very low-calorie diets. Limit your carbohydrate intake to help reach your desired weight loss goal quickly.\\nCarbohydrates are found in a variety of foods including: grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, legumes and dairy products.\\nLow carb diets may have some initial side effects. They are not dangerous or unsafe, but may make you feel a little off. Typically, you may experience headaches, hunger, crankiness or fatigue.\\nThere are a variety of commercial low carb diet plans that are based on different levels of carbohydrates. Find a program that's most appropriate for you if you don't want to design one for yourself.\\n1-4. Focus on lean protein, fruits and vegetables at most meals.\\nWhen you're limiting carbohydrates in your meals and snacks, you'll need to focus on lean protein, vegetables and fruit. This diet pattern will help keep you satisfied and support quick weight loss. You'll also want to incorporate healthy fats into your diet.\\nChoose lean protein foods at each meal like: pork, eggs, poultry, seafood, lean beef, legumes, nuts and tofu.\\nChoose a variety of fruits and vegetables daily. Include one to two servings at each meal. Although fruits and some starchy vegetables do contain carbohydrates, they offer you a wide variety of essential nutrients like fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. These are appropriate to include even on a low-carb diet.\\nHealthy fats include avocado, nuts, seeds, olives, olive oil, and coconut oil.\\nExamples of meals include: cottage cheese and fruit; lettuce wraps with deli meat and cheese, plus a handful of raw vegetables; kale salad with grilled salmon; or grilled pork tenderloin and mixed vegetables.\\n1-5. Avoid high-fat foods, added sugars, and processed junk food.\\nThese types of foods are typically higher in calories and can slow or stop your weight loss. In addition, they are also typically lower in essential nutrients like vitamins or minerals.\\nIf you're interested in losing 20 pounds quickly, you'll need to cut out completely or severely limit extra snacks or treats.\\nLimit foods like: sweets or desserts, chips, crackers, sodas, sweetened coffee drinks or sweetened tea, and pretzels.\\nAlso avoid alcoholic beverages. These do not provide any nutritional value and are only extra calories.\\nEven if you fit these types of foods into your calorie limit, you may be missing out on key nutrients from other, more healthy foods (like protein, fruits or vegetables). Saving up calories for sweet treats that are lacking in nutrition may slow weight loss.\\n2. Adding in Physical Activity\\n2-1. Exercise vigorously.\\nThe best way to lose weight quickly is a calorie controlled diet and exercise. You will need to participate in a fairly intense exercise regimen to burn a significant amount of calories to help you lose 20 pounds quickly.\\nVigorous exercise is any activity that significantly raises your heart rate and breathing pace. You shouldn't be able to say more than one or two words at a time without taking a breath. On the perceived exertion scale you should be around a seven or eight out of ten. Level one is sitting and ten is the most intense exercise you could perform.\\nSet aside about an hour every day. Plan to be active for an hour most days, even if some activities are less strenuous than others.\\nModerate intensity activity will also burn calories and support weight loss. However, vigorous intensity activity burns more calories and may help you reach your weight loss goal quicker.\\nPrior to starting any exercise routine, it's important to meet with your doctor to make sure exercise is safe and appropriate for you.\\n2-2. Include regular aerobic activity.\\nYou should aim for a minimum of 150 minutes of cardio weekly. However, it's recommended to get up to 300 minutes or five hours weekly for increased weight loss.\\nCommon cardiovascular exercises include running or jogging, swimming laps, dancing, cycling, and certain martial arts. These activities burn differing numbers of calories per hour, but all of them are effective.\\n2-3. Include weight training.\\nStrength training is a healthy and highly effective type of exercise for weight loss. It will help increase lean muscle mass, which over time, can increase your body's natural ability to burn calories.\\nWeight training is invaluable for any weight loss program, because stronger muscles require more energy to operate, which means that they burn more calories.\\nInclude about two days of strength training for at least 20 minutes a session. Exercises include: weight lifting, weight lifting classes, body weight exercises and pilates.\\n2-4. Plan one to two rest days.\\nTaking a break from exercising is a crucial part of a workout schedule. Continually working out, especially at vigorous intensities, is a lot of work and stress on your joints, muscles and body.\\nRest days help your body recover and can help prevent injury.\\nStick to rest days just as religiously as you stick to your workouts.\\nRest days should still be active. That means staying off the couch and participating in light, low-impact, low-intensity activities. These can include: restorative yoga, light walking, or a leisurely bike ride.\\n3. Staying Motivated\\n3-1. Start a food journal.\\nTracking all your foods and meals will not only help you stay on track, but can be motivating to you as well. Seeing how well you've done and well you've stuck to your diet plan is exciting.\\nMany of us believe we are eating less than we really are. Food journaling is a fool-proof way to ensure that you are holding yourself accountable.\\nGrab a notebook or download a diary app to your smart phone. Jot down notes about your meals (including calorie intake), exercise, and other measures you're keeping track of.\\nYou can also use your journal as a diary. Taking note of how your diet is making you feel, writing about difficult days, etc.\\n3-2. Track your progress.\\nWrite down your goal and leave it somewhere you can easily check it again. Underneath your goal, keep a weekly log of how many pounds you've lost or how many inches you've lost.\\nWhen you feel like giving up, read over your goal and the progress you've already made. This may be the motivation you need to keep yourself going.\\nKeeping track of your weight can also provide you with some insight into how well your diet is working or if it's not working. You'll be able to discern when it's time to make a change.\\n3-3. Leave notes for yourself.\\nPost sticky notes or taped scraps of paper wherever you will see them often: the bathroom mirror, the refrigerator, even the steering wheel of your car. Write short motivational phrases and reminders on them. They'll give you a bit of a boost throughout the day.\\nLittle positive sayings can help you remember your goal, keep you focused, and help you stay on track.\\n3-4. Get a partner.\\nThis is especially useful in helping to maintain your exercise schedule. If you have an exercise partner, you have a reason beyond yourself to show up to every session on time.\\nHe or she can give you a boost of enthusiasm when you're not feeling up to your workout.\\nYour partner can also lend a good ear when you're feeling down or unmotivated with your diet or progress.\\n3-5. Manage stress\\nStress can make it hard to stay on a diet or exercise plan. Managing stress can help you stay motivated and feel energized throughout your diet program.\\nExtra stress can slow weight loss and even promote weight gain. Getting it under control can help support quicker weight loss.\\nIt's important to find activities to help calm and relax you. Try chatting with friends, going for a walk, listening to music or reading a good book.\\nWarnings\\nBeware of diet pills and similar products. They are poorly regulated and often contain substances that are useless in helping you lose weight, like acai extract and willow bark. At worst, these products can cause serious health complications for years before they are pulled off the market. It is better to stick to the tried-and-true technique of combining diet and exercise.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Losing weight can be a long process — especially if you have more than just a few pounds to lose. If you're in a hurry to drop extra weight, it can very tempting to try quick fixes, diet pills or supplements. Many times these products don't work and could pose a serious health risk. Aiming to lose 20 pounds isn't a small goal, but can be accomplished fairly quickly with the right dietary and lifestyle changes.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Changing Your Diet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Control your intake.\", \"描述\": \"One of the primary keys to losing weight quickly is to control what you eat. Decreasing your intake either by controlling portion sizes or counting calories works well for quick weight loss.\\nPortion control is sometimes the only thing you can control. If you're eating out or subjected to meals controlled by someone else, portions are the one thing you can control every time.\\nEstimate your calorie intake and usage. Pay attention to what you eat and drink throughout the day, and note amounts of each item as best you can. This can show you how much you currently eat and how many calories you can cut out of your diet safely.\\nTo speed up the process, you can try cutting your calories to the lowest amount of calories that's considered safe for most people — 1200 calories daily. However, this amount may change based on your activity level, gender, and weight.\\nIt's wise to discuss this amount with your doctor to make sure 1200 calories is safe and appropriate for you.\\nIf you cut out about 500 calories daily that generally leads to about one to two pounds of weight loss per week.\\nConsuming less than 1200 calories daily can put you at risk for nutrient deficiencies and may result in slower weight loss over time.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare menus and snack ideas that will fit into your calorie goal.\", \"描述\": \"Having a set meal plan can help keep you on track. In addition, it can help keep you on track since you'll know exactly what all your meals and snacks are.\\nSpend some time coming up with a meal plan for the week. Be sure to include all meals and snacks you plan on eating throughout the day.\\nYou can use online calorie calculators to find out the typical number of calories for foods or meals that you want to include on your diet. Double checking this can help make sure you stay within your calorie limit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Follow a low-carb diet.\", \"描述\": \"Studies have shown that low-carb diets result in quicker weight loss compared to low-fat diets or very low-calorie diets. Limit your carbohydrate intake to help reach your desired weight loss goal quickly.\\nCarbohydrates are found in a variety of foods including: grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, legumes and dairy products.\\nLow carb diets may have some initial side effects. They are not dangerous or unsafe, but may make you feel a little off. Typically, you may experience headaches, hunger, crankiness or fatigue.\\nThere are a variety of commercial low carb diet plans that are based on different levels of carbohydrates. Find a program that's most appropriate for you if you don't want to design one for yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Focus on lean protein, fruits and vegetables at most meals.\", \"描述\": \"When you're limiting carbohydrates in your meals and snacks, you'll need to focus on lean protein, vegetables and fruit. This diet pattern will help keep you satisfied and support quick weight loss. You'll also want to incorporate healthy fats into your diet.\\nChoose lean protein foods at each meal like: pork, eggs, poultry, seafood, lean beef, legumes, nuts and tofu.\\nChoose a variety of fruits and vegetables daily. Include one to two servings at each meal. Although fruits and some starchy vegetables do contain carbohydrates, they offer you a wide variety of essential nutrients like fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. These are appropriate to include even on a low-carb diet.\\nHealthy fats include avocado, nuts, seeds, olives, olive oil, and coconut oil.\\nExamples of meals include: cottage cheese and fruit; lettuce wraps with deli meat and cheese, plus a handful of raw vegetables; kale salad with grilled salmon; or grilled pork tenderloin and mixed vegetables.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid high-fat foods, added sugars, and processed junk food.\", \"描述\": \"These types of foods are typically higher in calories and can slow or stop your weight loss. In addition, they are also typically lower in essential nutrients like vitamins or minerals.\\nIf you're interested in losing 20 pounds quickly, you'll need to cut out completely or severely limit extra snacks or treats.\\nLimit foods like: sweets or desserts, chips, crackers, sodas, sweetened coffee drinks or sweetened tea, and pretzels.\\nAlso avoid alcoholic beverages. These do not provide any nutritional value and are only extra calories.\\nEven if you fit these types of foods into your calorie limit, you may be missing out on key nutrients from other, more healthy foods (like protein, fruits or vegetables). Saving up calories for sweet treats that are lacking in nutrition may slow weight loss.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding in Physical Activity\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Exercise vigorously.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to lose weight quickly is a calorie controlled diet and exercise. You will need to participate in a fairly intense exercise regimen to burn a significant amount of calories to help you lose 20 pounds quickly.\\nVigorous exercise is any activity that significantly raises your heart rate and breathing pace. You shouldn't be able to say more than one or two words at a time without taking a breath. On the perceived exertion scale you should be around a seven or eight out of ten. Level one is sitting and ten is the most intense exercise you could perform.\\nSet aside about an hour every day. Plan to be active for an hour most days, even if some activities are less strenuous than others.\\nModerate intensity activity will also burn calories and support weight loss. However, vigorous intensity activity burns more calories and may help you reach your weight loss goal quicker.\\nPrior to starting any exercise routine, it's important to meet with your doctor to make sure exercise is safe and appropriate for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Include regular aerobic activity.\", \"描述\": \"You should aim for a minimum of 150 minutes of cardio weekly. However, it's recommended to get up to 300 minutes or five hours weekly for increased weight loss.\\nCommon cardiovascular exercises include running or jogging, swimming laps, dancing, cycling, and certain martial arts. These activities burn differing numbers of calories per hour, but all of them are effective.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include weight training.\", \"描述\": \"Strength training is a healthy and highly effective type of exercise for weight loss. It will help increase lean muscle mass, which over time, can increase your body's natural ability to burn calories.\\nWeight training is invaluable for any weight loss program, because stronger muscles require more energy to operate, which means that they burn more calories.\\nInclude about two days of strength training for at least 20 minutes a session. Exercises include: weight lifting, weight lifting classes, body weight exercises and pilates.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plan one to two rest days.\", \"描述\": \"Taking a break from exercising is a crucial part of a workout schedule. Continually working out, especially at vigorous intensities, is a lot of work and stress on your joints, muscles and body.\\nRest days help your body recover and can help prevent injury.\\nStick to rest days just as religiously as you stick to your workouts.\\nRest days should still be active. That means staying off the couch and participating in light, low-impact, low-intensity activities. These can include: restorative yoga, light walking, or a leisurely bike ride.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staying Motivated\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start a food journal.\", \"描述\": \"Tracking all your foods and meals will not only help you stay on track, but can be motivating to you as well. Seeing how well you've done and well you've stuck to your diet plan is exciting.\\nMany of us believe we are eating less than we really are. Food journaling is a fool-proof way to ensure that you are holding yourself accountable.\\nGrab a notebook or download a diary app to your smart phone. Jot down notes about your meals (including calorie intake), exercise, and other measures you're keeping track of.\\nYou can also use your journal as a diary. Taking note of how your diet is making you feel, writing about difficult days, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Track your progress.\", \"描述\": \"Write down your goal and leave it somewhere you can easily check it again. Underneath your goal, keep a weekly log of how many pounds you've lost or how many inches you've lost.\\nWhen you feel like giving up, read over your goal and the progress you've already made. This may be the motivation you need to keep yourself going.\\nKeeping track of your weight can also provide you with some insight into how well your diet is working or if it's not working. You'll be able to discern when it's time to make a change.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave notes for yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Post sticky notes or taped scraps of paper wherever you will see them often: the bathroom mirror, the refrigerator, even the steering wheel of your car. Write short motivational phrases and reminders on them. They'll give you a bit of a boost throughout the day.\\nLittle positive sayings can help you remember your goal, keep you focused, and help you stay on track.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get a partner.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially useful in helping to maintain your exercise schedule. If you have an exercise partner, you have a reason beyond yourself to show up to every session on time.\\nHe or she can give you a boost of enthusiasm when you're not feeling up to your workout.\\nYour partner can also lend a good ear when you're feeling down or unmotivated with your diet or progress.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Manage stress\", \"描述\": \"Stress can make it hard to stay on a diet or exercise plan. Managing stress can help you stay motivated and feel energized throughout your diet program.\\nExtra stress can slow weight loss and even promote weight gain. Getting it under control can help support quicker weight loss.\\nIt's important to find activities to help calm and relax you. Try chatting with friends, going for a walk, listening to music or reading a good book.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Beware of diet pills and similar products. They are poorly regulated and often contain substances that are useless in helping you lose weight, like acai extract and willow bark. At worst, these products can cause serious health complications for years before they are pulled off the market. It is better to stick to the tried-and-true technique of combining diet and exercise.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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How to Burn 2000 Calories a Day: Safe, Effective Ways to Lose Weight
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1. Can you burn 2000 calories in a day?
If you're moderately active, you already burn 2000 calories a day.
Everyday activities like breathing, walking, and sleeping contribute to calorie loss, but diet, exercise, and genetics (metabolism) determine long-term weight loss. To lose weight, you need to use more calories than you consume by cutting calories, increasing exercise, or both.
Before cutting calories, talk to your doctor and a reputable fitness coach.
Never eat fewer than 1200 calories a day. It's extremely dangerous and can lead to future health problems.
Burning an extra 2000 calories (on top of the 2000 calories you normally burn) isn’t easy or advisable. Unless you’re a professional athlete, don’t attempt to burn an additional 2000 calories strictly through exercise.
For effective weight loss, aim to burn an additional 2000 calories over several days or weeks, and break down your fitness goals into smaller, manageable ones so you don’t experience burnout.
2. Calorie-Burning Exercises
2-1. HIIT (High-Intensity Interval Training)
HIIT involves several minutes of high-intensity activity followed by short periods of low-intensity activity or rest. It's an ideal home workout because it doesn’t require much space or additional equipment. In just 30 minutes, you can burn over 300 calories, so grab your workout timer and get ready to sweat!
When adding HIIT to your routine, be sure to warm up before exercising. Start with 10-15 leg swings, or jog in place for one minute.
Try 30 seconds of push-ups for beginners, followed by a 15-second plank. Or, run up and down the stairs for 1 minute, followed by 25 seconds of rest. Do 8-10 reps.
Instead of a timer, blast music over a speaker to keep track of your workout intervals. Try sprinting until you reach the bridge of your favorite song, then slowly walk in place until the outro (and repeat).
2-2. Cycling
Whether you take a ride outside your neighborhood or opt for an indoor experience, cycling is a fun and healthy form of cardio. It’s the perfect exercise to lose weight because it burns body fat and builds muscle, boosting metabolism. You can expect to burn around 315-440 calories in 30 minutes.
If you’re a beginner, it’s crucial to choose the right bike to avoid lower back pain. Search for an indoor recumbent bike, which puts you in a slightly reclined position to put less stress on your body.
When cycling outdoors, always wear a safety helmet, and avoid wearing clips to keep your feet on the pedals–your injuries will be worse if you fall off your bike.
It’s crucial to monitor your hydration levels when exercising: drink at least 2 litres (0.53 US gal) to 3 litres (0.79 US gal) of water a day, and add electrolyte powder to your water if you ride for over an hour.
2-3. Zumba
Zumba is an exciting dance fitness class that combines cardio with strength training moves. Unlike other exercise classes, Zumba is highly social and interactive: don’t expect an instructor to tell you what to do. Dancing to upbeat Latin music helps melt all your stress away and tone your entire body, and you can expect to burn 300-800 calories in a one-hour class.
It’s important to find the right Zumba for you. Search for a class with a licensed instructor on Zumba.com, or try it at home: there’s tons of videos on YouTube that are guaranteed to make you sweat.
To burn even more calories, try holding a set of Zumba dumbbells during class.
2-4. Jumping Rope
Jumping rope isn’t just for kids: it’s an intense cardio workout that tones your muscles and elevates your heart rate. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 300-450 calories, but jumping at a high intensity burns even more.
Plastic jump ropes whip around faster, helping you create a more intense workout.
Jump on a wooden or waxed floor to prevent putting stress on your knees.
To keep your routine exciting, do variations like alternate foot jumps or single leg lift jumps.
Start by jumping rope for 2-3 minutes so you can focus on the quality of your jumps, then increase the duration and intensity as you progress.
To target all your muscle groups, combine jumping rope with other training exercises, like cardio, cycling, or HIIT.
2-5. Swimming
If you don’t want to sweat, swimming is an excellent option for both physical and mental health benefits. Swimming works your entire body, building muscles, endurance, and core strength. Incorporate different strokes (freestyle, backstroke, breaststroke) to increase the intensity of your workout and burn more calories. If you swim laps, you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.
If you’re swimming laps, put on a swim cap to keep your hair out of your face and wear swim goggles to protect your eyes underwater.
Whether it’s a pool, lake, or beach, ensure the environment you choose to swim in is safe. Always swim under supervision or with a friend, and stay within a depth you can handle.
2-6. Kickboxing
Kickboxing is a high-energy workout that combines intense cardio and strength training. It involves various punching and kicking techniques, so it’s an efficient workout to learn the basics of self-defense. Like swimming, kickboxing is a full-body workout to help tone your muscles and burn fat, and you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.
To get the most out of sparring, add wrist or ankle weights during your kickboxing workout, or throw on a pair of boxing gloves for extra resistance.
Improve your kickboxing skills by building your endurance with other exercises: try jumping rope, sprinting up hills, and swimming laps.
2-7. Running
Running is the most classic form of cardio to help you lose weight quickly. It’s incredibly accessible because it doesn’t involve equipment, and it’s easy to incorporate into your schedule. In just 30 minutes, you can burn 200-500 calories, depending on the intensity of your run.
Mix running with other workouts to meet your fitness goals: try a warm-up (15 minutes) + running (1 hour) + cool down (15 minutes) + HIIT (15 minutes) + jumping rope (10 minutes).
If you struggle with working out consistently, run with a friend, or join a local running club.
It’s crucial to choose running shoes that fit your needs. Consider the surface you’re running on, and purchase your shoes in-person to ensure they’re the perfect fit.
2-8. Weight Training
Also known as resistance training, weight training builds strength by working muscles to overcome a resistance force. It includes lifting weights, using resistance bands, and performing squats, and it’s an integral workout to boost your metabolism: as you gain muscle, your body burns more calories at rest. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 180-250 calories.
Work with a fitness instructor to develop a safe and effective program. A beginner’s routine typically involves 8-10 exercises (8 reps each), 2-3 times per week.
When starting your weight training program, it’s crucial to warm up with some cardio. Start by walking for 5 minutes, followed by a few jumping jacks and dynamic stretches.
To gain the most benefits, introduce new exercises into your workout routine to challenge your muscles.
2-9. Low-intensity Aerobic Exercises (Yoga, Pilates)
Intense workouts can be extremely intimidating (and draining), so incorporate low-intensity aerobic exercises to swing you into shape. Yoga and pilates involve breathing, meditation, and movement to improve posture and balance. They're great recovery exercises to pair with HIIT or running, and you usually burn 165-230 calories per hour.
Incorporate low-intensity aerobic exercise with other workouts to burn more fat: try a warm up (15 minutes) + pilates (1 hour) + swimming (30 minutes) + cycling (15 min) + cool down (15 minutes).
When choosing a type of yoga, it’s important to try different classes to see what you enjoy. Bikram yoga (hot yoga) and Vinyasa yoga are the best forms of yoga for burning calories.
2-10. Other Daily Exercises
There are plenty of opportunities to exercise throughout the day, whether it’s cleaning your room or playing with your dog. If you work in an office environment, avoid sitting down for too long and take breaks to move around.
Park further from the store entrance, and take the stairs instead of the elevator.
See your colleagues in-person instead of sending an email.
Wash the dishes by hand instead of using a dishwasher.
Pace when you’re on the phone, and talk with your hands during conversation.
3. Ways to Modify Your Diet
3-1. Add more whole foods to your diet.
For effective weight loss, it's crucial to build a healthy, balanced diet incorporating various food groups. The quality of your food is more important than quantity, so try to cut out as many processed foods as possible. A balanced meal includes:
1/2 plate of fruits and vegetables
1/4 plate of whole grains
1/4 plate of lean protein
3-2. Replace “junk” foods with healthier alternatives.
Calories are a critical component of weight loss, but it’s important not to deprive yourself. Instead of eliminating certain foods, choose more nutritious options with similar tastes.
The next time you’re craving chips, replace them with veggies and hummus.
If you're craving something sweet, eat frozen grapes or make banana ice cream.
Other healthy snacks: mixed nuts, fruit, boiled eggs, yogurt
3-3. Eliminate alcohol and sugary drinks.
If you're not careful, it's easy to drink all your calories for the day. One can of soda has up to 170 calories, so remove sugary drinks from your home if you are serious about losing weight.
You can still enjoy the flavor of alcohol without the excess calories. Replace your drink of choice with a low-calorie mocktail, or try flavored sparkling water with lime.
If you desperately need caffeine, drink yerba mate, green tea, or plain black coffee.
3-4. Eat high-fiber foods.
Fiber is perfect for losing weight because it increases the feeling of being full. High-fiber foods absorb more water in the GI tract and take longer to digest, which also prevents you from over-snacking. High-fiber foods include:
Fruits: apples, avocados, bananas, berries (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries)
Vegetables: beans, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, potatoes
Whole grains: brown rice, oats, pasta
Nuts (almonds, pistachios, sunflower seeds)
Popcorn
3-5. Choose spicy foods.
Spicy food contains capsaicin, which gives peppers their kick. It also increases the body’s ability to burn fat and energy, so add more spice to your diet to boost your metabolism.
Hot sauce and packaged seasonings have a high salt content, so it’s best to add whole peppers or dried chili powder into your food instead.
If you’re eating unhealthy foods, adding spice isn’t going to boost your metabolism. No matter how much spice you add, focus on maintaining a healthy, balanced diet of whole foods.
3-6. Practice intuitive eating.
Don’t feel guilty for eating something sweet every once in a while: restricting certain foods only increases your cravings. It’s better to listen to your body than deprive yourself, but be mindful of how much you consume.
Try the 80/20 rule: stick to nutritious, whole foods 80% of the time, and eat whatever you want 20% of the time.
To avoid overeating, avoid distractions during meals, like watching TV or scrolling on your phone.
Don't get so caught up with counting calories that you feel guilty for "giving in" to certain foods. Use an online calorie calculator to determine how many calories you need to cut, but always talk to your doctor to develop a specialized (and safe) weight-loss plan.
4. How are calories burned?
Your metabolism determines how many calories you burn.
Metabolism is how your body converts food and drinks into energy. If you have a “fast” metabolism, you burn more calories during exercise and rest, which is a significant part of losing weight. Genetics impacts your metabolism, but exercising regularly and choosing healthy foods increases the number of calories you can burn.
To figure out your minimum caloric intake, calculate your basal metabolic rate (BMR). Determine your height in centimeters and your weight in kilograms. Plug these values into an online calculator.
A high BMR is ideal because it means you burn a lot of calories at rest. A low BMR means you have a slow metabolism, which is often fueled by restricting calories and limiting exercise.
Calculate your BMR every week to track your metabolism. If your BMR remains the same, you may want to switch up your diet or workout. Then, check if your BMR changes the following week.
BMR increases if you have a high percentage of lean muscle mass (since muscle is more active than fat). To boost your BMR, add muscle-building exercises into your routine, like weight-lifting or cycling.
5. Calculating Your Calorie Needs
Calculate how many calories
In general, you need to burn 3500 calories to lose 1 pound (0.45 kg) of weight. Most people start by cutting 500 calories daily to lose one pound per week, but this amount will change as you lose weight. To burn 2000 calories, use an online calculator to determine how much you need to exercise and how many calories you need to cut.
Mild weight loss: 0.5 pounds (0.23 kg) a week
Normal weight loss: 1 pound (0.45 kg)a week
Extreme weight loss: 2 pounds (0.91 kg) a week (not recommended unless advised by your doctor)
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Can you burn 2000 calories in a day?\\nIf you're moderately active, you already burn 2000 calories a day.\\nEveryday activities like breathing, walking, and sleeping contribute to calorie loss, but diet, exercise, and genetics (metabolism) determine long-term weight loss. To lose weight, you need to use more calories than you consume by cutting calories, increasing exercise, or both.\\nBefore cutting calories, talk to your doctor and a reputable fitness coach.\\nNever eat fewer than 1200 calories a day. It's extremely dangerous and can lead to future health problems.\\nBurning an extra 2000 calories (on top of the 2000 calories you normally burn) isn’t easy or advisable. Unless you’re a professional athlete, don’t attempt to burn an additional 2000 calories strictly through exercise.\\nFor effective weight loss, aim to burn an additional 2000 calories over several days or weeks, and break down your fitness goals into smaller, manageable ones so you don’t experience burnout.\\n2. Calorie-Burning Exercises\\n2-1. HIIT (High-Intensity Interval Training)\\nHIIT involves several minutes of high-intensity activity followed by short periods of low-intensity activity or rest. It's an ideal home workout because it doesn’t require much space or additional equipment. In just 30 minutes, you can burn over 300 calories, so grab your workout timer and get ready to sweat!\\nWhen adding HIIT to your routine, be sure to warm up before exercising. Start with 10-15 leg swings, or jog in place for one minute.\\nTry 30 seconds of push-ups for beginners, followed by a 15-second plank. Or, run up and down the stairs for 1 minute, followed by 25 seconds of rest. Do 8-10 reps.\\nInstead of a timer, blast music over a speaker to keep track of your workout intervals. Try sprinting until you reach the bridge of your favorite song, then slowly walk in place until the outro (and repeat).\\n2-2. Cycling\\nWhether you take a ride outside your neighborhood or opt for an indoor experience, cycling is a fun and healthy form of cardio. It’s the perfect exercise to lose weight because it burns body fat and builds muscle, boosting metabolism. You can expect to burn around 315-440 calories in 30 minutes.\\nIf you’re a beginner, it’s crucial to choose the right bike to avoid lower back pain. Search for an indoor recumbent bike, which puts you in a slightly reclined position to put less stress on your body.\\nWhen cycling outdoors, always wear a safety helmet, and avoid wearing clips to keep your feet on the pedals–your injuries will be worse if you fall off your bike.\\nIt’s crucial to monitor your hydration levels when exercising: drink at least 2 litres (0.53 US gal) to 3 litres (0.79 US gal) of water a day, and add electrolyte powder to your water if you ride for over an hour.\\n2-3. Zumba\\nZumba is an exciting dance fitness class that combines cardio with strength training moves. Unlike other exercise classes, Zumba is highly social and interactive: don’t expect an instructor to tell you what to do. Dancing to upbeat Latin music helps melt all your stress away and tone your entire body, and you can expect to burn 300-800 calories in a one-hour class.\\nIt’s important to find the right Zumba for you. Search for a class with a licensed instructor on Zumba.com, or try it at home: there’s tons of videos on YouTube that are guaranteed to make you sweat.\\nTo burn even more calories, try holding a set of Zumba dumbbells during class.\\n2-4. Jumping Rope\\nJumping rope isn’t just for kids: it’s an intense cardio workout that tones your muscles and elevates your heart rate. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 300-450 calories, but jumping at a high intensity burns even more.\\n\\nPlastic jump ropes whip around faster, helping you create a more intense workout.\\nJump on a wooden or waxed floor to prevent putting stress on your knees.\\nTo keep your routine exciting, do variations like alternate foot jumps or single leg lift jumps.\\nStart by jumping rope for 2-3 minutes so you can focus on the quality of your jumps, then increase the duration and intensity as you progress.\\nTo target all your muscle groups, combine jumping rope with other training exercises, like cardio, cycling, or HIIT.\\n2-5. Swimming\\nIf you don’t want to sweat, swimming is an excellent option for both physical and mental health benefits. Swimming works your entire body, building muscles, endurance, and core strength. Incorporate different strokes (freestyle, backstroke, breaststroke) to increase the intensity of your workout and burn more calories. If you swim laps, you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.\\nIf you’re swimming laps, put on a swim cap to keep your hair out of your face and wear swim goggles to protect your eyes underwater.\\nWhether it’s a pool, lake, or beach, ensure the environment you choose to swim in is safe. Always swim under supervision or with a friend, and stay within a depth you can handle.\\n2-6. Kickboxing\\nKickboxing is a high-energy workout that combines intense cardio and strength training. It involves various punching and kicking techniques, so it’s an efficient workout to learn the basics of self-defense. Like swimming, kickboxing is a full-body workout to help tone your muscles and burn fat, and you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.\\n\\nTo get the most out of sparring, add wrist or ankle weights during your kickboxing workout, or throw on a pair of boxing gloves for extra resistance.\\nImprove your kickboxing skills by building your endurance with other exercises: try jumping rope, sprinting up hills, and swimming laps.\\n2-7. Running\\nRunning is the most classic form of cardio to help you lose weight quickly. It’s incredibly accessible because it doesn’t involve equipment, and it’s easy to incorporate into your schedule. In just 30 minutes, you can burn 200-500 calories, depending on the intensity of your run.\\nMix running with other workouts to meet your fitness goals: try a warm-up (15 minutes) + running (1 hour) + cool down (15 minutes) + HIIT (15 minutes) + jumping rope (10 minutes).\\nIf you struggle with working out consistently, run with a friend, or join a local running club.\\nIt’s crucial to choose running shoes that fit your needs. Consider the surface you’re running on, and purchase your shoes in-person to ensure they’re the perfect fit.\\n2-8. Weight Training\\nAlso known as resistance training, weight training builds strength by working muscles to overcome a resistance force. It includes lifting weights, using resistance bands, and performing squats, and it’s an integral workout to boost your metabolism: as you gain muscle, your body burns more calories at rest. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 180-250 calories.\\nWork with a fitness instructor to develop a safe and effective program. A beginner’s routine typically involves 8-10 exercises (8 reps each), 2-3 times per week.\\nWhen starting your weight training program, it’s crucial to warm up with some cardio. Start by walking for 5 minutes, followed by a few jumping jacks and dynamic stretches.\\nTo gain the most benefits, introduce new exercises into your workout routine to challenge your muscles.\\n2-9. Low-intensity Aerobic Exercises (Yoga, Pilates)\\nIntense workouts can be extremely intimidating (and draining), so incorporate low-intensity aerobic exercises to swing you into shape. Yoga and pilates involve breathing, meditation, and movement to improve posture and balance. They're great recovery exercises to pair with HIIT or running, and you usually burn 165-230 calories per hour.\\nIncorporate low-intensity aerobic exercise with other workouts to burn more fat: try a warm up (15 minutes) + pilates (1 hour) + swimming (30 minutes) + cycling (15 min) + cool down (15 minutes).\\nWhen choosing a type of yoga, it’s important to try different classes to see what you enjoy. Bikram yoga (hot yoga) and Vinyasa yoga are the best forms of yoga for burning calories.\\n2-10. Other Daily Exercises\\nThere are plenty of opportunities to exercise throughout the day, whether it’s cleaning your room or playing with your dog. If you work in an office environment, avoid sitting down for too long and take breaks to move around.\\nPark further from the store entrance, and take the stairs instead of the elevator.\\nSee your colleagues in-person instead of sending an email.\\nWash the dishes by hand instead of using a dishwasher.\\nPace when you’re on the phone, and talk with your hands during conversation.\\n3. Ways to Modify Your Diet\\n3-1. Add more whole foods to your diet.\\nFor effective weight loss, it's crucial to build a healthy, balanced diet incorporating various food groups. The quality of your food is more important than quantity, so try to cut out as many processed foods as possible. A balanced meal includes:\\n1/2 plate of fruits and vegetables\\n1/4 plate of whole grains\\n1/4 plate of lean protein\\n3-2. Replace “junk” foods with healthier alternatives.\\nCalories are a critical component of weight loss, but it’s important not to deprive yourself. Instead of eliminating certain foods, choose more nutritious options with similar tastes.\\nThe next time you’re craving chips, replace them with veggies and hummus.\\nIf you're craving something sweet, eat frozen grapes or make banana ice cream.\\nOther healthy snacks: mixed nuts, fruit, boiled eggs, yogurt\\n3-3. Eliminate alcohol and sugary drinks.\\nIf you're not careful, it's easy to drink all your calories for the day. One can of soda has up to 170 calories, so remove sugary drinks from your home if you are serious about losing weight.\\nYou can still enjoy the flavor of alcohol without the excess calories. Replace your drink of choice with a low-calorie mocktail, or try flavored sparkling water with lime.\\nIf you desperately need caffeine, drink yerba mate, green tea, or plain black coffee.\\n3-4. Eat high-fiber foods.\\nFiber is perfect for losing weight because it increases the feeling of being full. High-fiber foods absorb more water in the GI tract and take longer to digest, which also prevents you from over-snacking. High-fiber foods include:\\nFruits: apples, avocados, bananas, berries (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries)\\nVegetables: beans, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, potatoes\\nWhole grains: brown rice, oats, pasta\\nNuts (almonds, pistachios, sunflower seeds)\\nPopcorn\\n3-5. Choose spicy foods.\\nSpicy food contains capsaicin, which gives peppers their kick. It also increases the body’s ability to burn fat and energy, so add more spice to your diet to boost your metabolism.\\nHot sauce and packaged seasonings have a high salt content, so it’s best to add whole peppers or dried chili powder into your food instead.\\nIf you’re eating unhealthy foods, adding spice isn’t going to boost your metabolism. No matter how much spice you add, focus on maintaining a healthy, balanced diet of whole foods.\\n3-6. Practice intuitive eating.\\nDon’t feel guilty for eating something sweet every once in a while: restricting certain foods only increases your cravings. It’s better to listen to your body than deprive yourself, but be mindful of how much you consume.\\nTry the 80/20 rule: stick to nutritious, whole foods 80% of the time, and eat whatever you want 20% of the time.\\nTo avoid overeating, avoid distractions during meals, like watching TV or scrolling on your phone.\\nDon't get so caught up with counting calories that you feel guilty for \\\"giving in\\\" to certain foods. Use an online calorie calculator to determine how many calories you need to cut, but always talk to your doctor to develop a specialized (and safe) weight-loss plan.\\n4. How are calories burned?\\nYour metabolism determines how many calories you burn.\\nMetabolism is how your body converts food and drinks into energy. If you have a “fast” metabolism, you burn more calories during exercise and rest, which is a significant part of losing weight. Genetics impacts your metabolism, but exercising regularly and choosing healthy foods increases the number of calories you can burn.\\nTo figure out your minimum caloric intake, calculate your basal metabolic rate (BMR). Determine your height in centimeters and your weight in kilograms. Plug these values into an online calculator.\\nA high BMR is ideal because it means you burn a lot of calories at rest. A low BMR means you have a slow metabolism, which is often fueled by restricting calories and limiting exercise.\\nCalculate your BMR every week to track your metabolism. If your BMR remains the same, you may want to switch up your diet or workout. Then, check if your BMR changes the following week.\\nBMR increases if you have a high percentage of lean muscle mass (since muscle is more active than fat). To boost your BMR, add muscle-building exercises into your routine, like weight-lifting or cycling.\\n5. Calculating Your Calorie Needs\\nCalculate how many calories\\nIn general, you need to burn 3500 calories to lose 1 pound (0.45 kg) of weight. Most people start by cutting 500 calories daily to lose one pound per week, but this amount will change as you lose weight. To burn 2000 calories, use an online calculator to determine how much you need to exercise and how many calories you need to cut.\\nMild weight loss: 0.5 pounds (0.23 kg) a week\\nNormal weight loss: 1 pound (0.45 kg)a week\\nExtreme weight loss: 2 pounds (0.91 kg) a week (not recommended unless advised by your doctor)\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"To lose weight, you need to burn more calories than you consume, but it doesn’t mean you have to starve yourself. With just a few diet and exercise changes, you’ll be shedding extra pounds in no time! There are many ways to burn 2000 calories, but don’t attempt to burn them strictly through exercise: it’s unhealthy and time-consuming as a daily activity (seriously, who has time for that?). For long-term weight loss, it's important to find exercises that you enjoy to avoid burnout. So, if you're looking to become a healthier, more energetic version of yourself, keep reading to find out how to lose weight safely and efficiently.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Can you burn 2000 calories in a day?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If you're moderately active, you already burn 2000 calories a day.\", \"描述\": \"Everyday activities like breathing, walking, and sleeping contribute to calorie loss, but diet, exercise, and genetics (metabolism) determine long-term weight loss. To lose weight, you need to use more calories than you consume by cutting calories, increasing exercise, or both.\\nBefore cutting calories, talk to your doctor and a reputable fitness coach.\\nNever eat fewer than 1200 calories a day. It's extremely dangerous and can lead to future health problems.\\nBurning an extra 2000 calories (on top of the 2000 calories you normally burn) isn’t easy or advisable. Unless you’re a professional athlete, don’t attempt to burn an additional 2000 calories strictly through exercise.\\nFor effective weight loss, aim to burn an additional 2000 calories over several days or weeks, and break down your fitness goals into smaller, manageable ones so you don’t experience burnout.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calorie-Burning Exercises\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"HIIT (High-Intensity Interval Training)\", \"描述\": \"HIIT involves several minutes of high-intensity activity followed by short periods of low-intensity activity or rest. It's an ideal home workout because it doesn’t require much space or additional equipment. In just 30 minutes, you can burn over 300 calories, so grab your workout timer and get ready to sweat!\\nWhen adding HIIT to your routine, be sure to warm up before exercising. Start with 10-15 leg swings, or jog in place for one minute.\\nTry 30 seconds of push-ups for beginners, followed by a 15-second plank. Or, run up and down the stairs for 1 minute, followed by 25 seconds of rest. Do 8-10 reps.\\nInstead of a timer, blast music over a speaker to keep track of your workout intervals. Try sprinting until you reach the bridge of your favorite song, then slowly walk in place until the outro (and repeat).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cycling\", \"描述\": \"Whether you take a ride outside your neighborhood or opt for an indoor experience, cycling is a fun and healthy form of cardio. It’s the perfect exercise to lose weight because it burns body fat and builds muscle, boosting metabolism. You can expect to burn around 315-440 calories in 30 minutes.\\nIf you’re a beginner, it’s crucial to choose the right bike to avoid lower back pain. Search for an indoor recumbent bike, which puts you in a slightly reclined position to put less stress on your body.\\nWhen cycling outdoors, always wear a safety helmet, and avoid wearing clips to keep your feet on the pedals–your injuries will be worse if you fall off your bike.\\nIt’s crucial to monitor your hydration levels when exercising: drink at least 2 litres (0.53 US gal) to 3 litres (0.79 US gal) of water a day, and add electrolyte powder to your water if you ride for over an hour.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Zumba\", \"描述\": \"Zumba is an exciting dance fitness class that combines cardio with strength training moves. Unlike other exercise classes, Zumba is highly social and interactive: don’t expect an instructor to tell you what to do. Dancing to upbeat Latin music helps melt all your stress away and tone your entire body, and you can expect to burn 300-800 calories in a one-hour class.\\nIt’s important to find the right Zumba for you. Search for a class with a licensed instructor on Zumba.com, or try it at home: there’s tons of videos on YouTube that are guaranteed to make you sweat.\\nTo burn even more calories, try holding a set of Zumba dumbbells during class.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Jumping Rope\", \"描述\": \"Jumping rope isn’t just for kids: it’s an intense cardio workout that tones your muscles and elevates your heart rate. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 300-450 calories, but jumping at a high intensity burns even more.\\n\\nPlastic jump ropes whip around faster, helping you create a more intense workout.\\nJump on a wooden or waxed floor to prevent putting stress on your knees.\\nTo keep your routine exciting, do variations like alternate foot jumps or single leg lift jumps.\\nStart by jumping rope for 2-3 minutes so you can focus on the quality of your jumps, then increase the duration and intensity as you progress.\\nTo target all your muscle groups, combine jumping rope with other training exercises, like cardio, cycling, or HIIT.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Swimming\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t want to sweat, swimming is an excellent option for both physical and mental health benefits. Swimming works your entire body, building muscles, endurance, and core strength. Incorporate different strokes (freestyle, backstroke, breaststroke) to increase the intensity of your workout and burn more calories. If you swim laps, you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.\\nIf you’re swimming laps, put on a swim cap to keep your hair out of your face and wear swim goggles to protect your eyes underwater.\\nWhether it’s a pool, lake, or beach, ensure the environment you choose to swim in is safe. Always swim under supervision or with a friend, and stay within a depth you can handle.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Kickboxing\", \"描述\": \"Kickboxing is a high-energy workout that combines intense cardio and strength training. It involves various punching and kicking techniques, so it’s an efficient workout to learn the basics of self-defense. Like swimming, kickboxing is a full-body workout to help tone your muscles and burn fat, and you can expect to burn 300-420 calories in 30 minutes.\\n\\nTo get the most out of sparring, add wrist or ankle weights during your kickboxing workout, or throw on a pair of boxing gloves for extra resistance.\\nImprove your kickboxing skills by building your endurance with other exercises: try jumping rope, sprinting up hills, and swimming laps.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Running\", \"描述\": \"Running is the most classic form of cardio to help you lose weight quickly. It’s incredibly accessible because it doesn’t involve equipment, and it’s easy to incorporate into your schedule. In just 30 minutes, you can burn 200-500 calories, depending on the intensity of your run.\\nMix running with other workouts to meet your fitness goals: try a warm-up (15 minutes) + running (1 hour) + cool down (15 minutes) + HIIT (15 minutes) + jumping rope (10 minutes).\\nIf you struggle with working out consistently, run with a friend, or join a local running club.\\nIt’s crucial to choose running shoes that fit your needs. Consider the surface you’re running on, and purchase your shoes in-person to ensure they’re the perfect fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Weight Training\", \"描述\": \"Also known as resistance training, weight training builds strength by working muscles to overcome a resistance force. It includes lifting weights, using resistance bands, and performing squats, and it’s an integral workout to boost your metabolism: as you gain muscle, your body burns more calories at rest. In 30 minutes, you can expect to burn 180-250 calories.\\nWork with a fitness instructor to develop a safe and effective program. A beginner’s routine typically involves 8-10 exercises (8 reps each), 2-3 times per week.\\nWhen starting your weight training program, it’s crucial to warm up with some cardio. Start by walking for 5 minutes, followed by a few jumping jacks and dynamic stretches.\\nTo gain the most benefits, introduce new exercises into your workout routine to challenge your muscles.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Low-intensity Aerobic Exercises (Yoga, Pilates)\", \"描述\": \"Intense workouts can be extremely intimidating (and draining), so incorporate low-intensity aerobic exercises to swing you into shape. Yoga and pilates involve breathing, meditation, and movement to improve posture and balance. They're great recovery exercises to pair with HIIT or running, and you usually burn 165-230 calories per hour.\\nIncorporate low-intensity aerobic exercise with other workouts to burn more fat: try a warm up (15 minutes) + pilates (1 hour) + swimming (30 minutes) + cycling (15 min) + cool down (15 minutes).\\nWhen choosing a type of yoga, it’s important to try different classes to see what you enjoy. Bikram yoga (hot yoga) and Vinyasa yoga are the best forms of yoga for burning calories.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Other Daily Exercises\", \"描述\": \"There are plenty of opportunities to exercise throughout the day, whether it’s cleaning your room or playing with your dog. If you work in an office environment, avoid sitting down for too long and take breaks to move around.\\nPark further from the store entrance, and take the stairs instead of the elevator.\\nSee your colleagues in-person instead of sending an email.\\nWash the dishes by hand instead of using a dishwasher.\\nPace when you’re on the phone, and talk with your hands during conversation.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ways to Modify Your Diet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add more whole foods to your diet.\", \"描述\": \"For effective weight loss, it's crucial to build a healthy, balanced diet incorporating various food groups. The quality of your food is more important than quantity, so try to cut out as many processed foods as possible. A balanced meal includes:\\n1/2 plate of fruits and vegetables\\n1/4 plate of whole grains\\n1/4 plate of lean protein\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace “junk” foods with healthier alternatives.\", \"描述\": \"Calories are a critical component of weight loss, but it’s important not to deprive yourself. Instead of eliminating certain foods, choose more nutritious options with similar tastes.\\nThe next time you’re craving chips, replace them with veggies and hummus.\\nIf you're craving something sweet, eat frozen grapes or make banana ice cream.\\nOther healthy snacks: mixed nuts, fruit, boiled eggs, yogurt\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eliminate alcohol and sugary drinks.\", \"描述\": \"If you're not careful, it's easy to drink all your calories for the day. One can of soda has up to 170 calories, so remove sugary drinks from your home if you are serious about losing weight.\\nYou can still enjoy the flavor of alcohol without the excess calories. Replace your drink of choice with a low-calorie mocktail, or try flavored sparkling water with lime.\\nIf you desperately need caffeine, drink yerba mate, green tea, or plain black coffee.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Eat high-fiber foods.\", \"描述\": \"Fiber is perfect for losing weight because it increases the feeling of being full. High-fiber foods absorb more water in the GI tract and take longer to digest, which also prevents you from over-snacking. High-fiber foods include:\\nFruits: apples, avocados, bananas, berries (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries)\\nVegetables: beans, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, potatoes\\nWhole grains: brown rice, oats, pasta\\nNuts (almonds, pistachios, sunflower seeds)\\nPopcorn\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose spicy foods.\", \"描述\": \"Spicy food contains capsaicin, which gives peppers their kick. It also increases the body’s ability to burn fat and energy, so add more spice to your diet to boost your metabolism.\\nHot sauce and packaged seasonings have a high salt content, so it’s best to add whole peppers or dried chili powder into your food instead.\\nIf you’re eating unhealthy foods, adding spice isn’t going to boost your metabolism. No matter how much spice you add, focus on maintaining a healthy, balanced diet of whole foods.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Practice intuitive eating.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t feel guilty for eating something sweet every once in a while: restricting certain foods only increases your cravings. It’s better to listen to your body than deprive yourself, but be mindful of how much you consume.\\nTry the 80/20 rule: stick to nutritious, whole foods 80% of the time, and eat whatever you want 20% of the time.\\nTo avoid overeating, avoid distractions during meals, like watching TV or scrolling on your phone.\\nDon't get so caught up with counting calories that you feel guilty for \\\"giving in\\\" to certain foods. Use an online calorie calculator to determine how many calories you need to cut, but always talk to your doctor to develop a specialized (and safe) weight-loss plan.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"How are calories burned?\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your metabolism determines how many calories you burn.\", \"描述\": \"Metabolism is how your body converts food and drinks into energy. If you have a “fast” metabolism, you burn more calories during exercise and rest, which is a significant part of losing weight. Genetics impacts your metabolism, but exercising regularly and choosing healthy foods increases the number of calories you can burn.\\nTo figure out your minimum caloric intake, calculate your basal metabolic rate (BMR). Determine your height in centimeters and your weight in kilograms. Plug these values into an online calculator.\\nA high BMR is ideal because it means you burn a lot of calories at rest. A low BMR means you have a slow metabolism, which is often fueled by restricting calories and limiting exercise.\\nCalculate your BMR every week to track your metabolism. If your BMR remains the same, you may want to switch up your diet or workout. Then, check if your BMR changes the following week.\\nBMR increases if you have a high percentage of lean muscle mass (since muscle is more active than fat). To boost your BMR, add muscle-building exercises into your routine, like weight-lifting or cycling.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Calculating Your Calorie Needs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Calculate how many calories\", \"描述\": \"In general, you need to burn 3500 calories to lose 1 pound (0.45 kg) of weight. Most people start by cutting 500 calories daily to lose one pound per week, but this amount will change as you lose weight. To burn 2000 calories, use an online calculator to determine how much you need to exercise and how many calories you need to cut.\\nMild weight loss: 0.5 pounds (0.23 kg) a week\\nNormal weight loss: 1 pound (0.45 kg)a week\\nExtreme weight loss: 2 pounds (0.91 kg) a week (not recommended unless advised by your doctor)\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
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wikihow
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How to Burn 300 Calories in 30 Minutes
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1. Finding Exercises to Burn 300 Calories in 30 Minutes
1-1. Go for a jog.
One great calorie burning exercise to try is jogging. It's a higher impact exercise that requires the use of many large muscle groups to perform.
To burn at least 300 calories in a half an hour, you have to jog or run. Aim for your pace to be around a 10-minute mile or 6 mph (if you're on the treadmill).
Keep in mind that the number of calories you burn during any type of exercise will depend on factors like your sex, age, weight, and effort level.
Note that the faster your pace, the more calories you'll burn in that 30 minute time span.
Although it's commonly believed that walking burns the same calories per mile as running, it'll take you more than 30 minutes to walk 3 to 4 miles.
1-2. Take a spin class.
A high intensity aerobic exercise you can also try is a spin class. These classes are notoriously challenging and will help you torch calories in a short amount of time.
The reason why a spin class is so good at burning calories is that it alternates between moderate and high intensities, requires you to use large muscle groups (like your legs) and keeps your heart rate elevated.
You may burn around 400 calories in 30 minutes of spinning depending on your age, weight, sex, and effort level.
Note that you need to make sure you're working at a minimum of moderate intensity to reach this calorie goal. This means keeping the resistance up and not taking many breaks.
Many spin classes run for an hour. Check your gym’s class schedule to see if they offer any 30 minute classes.
1-3. Sign up for an aerobics class.
If you're more of a group exercise type of person, consider signing up for some aerobics classes. Many of these are high in intensity and will help you meet your 300 calorie goal.
Look over the fitness class schedule at your gym. See if there are any fitness classes that are designed to burn a lot of calories.
For example, some high intensity Zumba, kick boxing, high intensity interval training (HIIT), circuit training or step aerobics classes will help you meet your calorie burn goal.
Many of these classes can help you burn around 300 calories in 30 minutes. Make sure you're working at a higher intensity.
1-4. Grab a jump rope.
A fun exercise you can do is jumping rope. Bring back childhood memories and torch about 300 calories in 30 minutes.
You might be surprised to know that jumping rope is a great calorie burn. While you do need to work harder than a game of Double Dutch, it's a great form of exercise.
In general, moderate to high intensity versions of jumping rope can help you burn about 350 calories in 30 minutes. But remember that the amount of calories you burn may be more or less depending on your weight, age, sex, and effort level.
Increase the intensity or difficulty by changing speeds, crossing the rope in front of you or jumping on one leg.
1-5. Go for a swim.
Some forms of swimming can also help you burn calories in a short amount of time. Plus, these pool workouts are easier on your joints.
Swimming, like the rowing machine, recruits just about every major muscle group in your body. This is why it's such a great exercise for higher calorie burns.
In general, treading water or swimming laps may burn just around 300 calories in a half an hour.
However, if you do harder or more difficult strokes, the total calories you burn will increase. For example, doing the butterfly stroke or crawl may burn around 330 calories in a half an hour.
1-6. Get on the rowing machine.
If you want to use a machine, the rowing machine might be a good option for you. This may help you meet your 300 calorie goal.
One of the reasons that the rowing machine can help you burn so many calories is that it requires you to use large muscle groups.
When you have more muscles engaged, your body needs to use more energy (or calories) to fuel those muscles.
Remember that calories burned will depend on factors such as your age, weight, sex, and effort level. For example, in a 30-minute time period, a 30 year old 180 pound male working at 75% of his full capacity may burn about 316 calories.
2. Helping Your Body Burn More Calories
2-1. Increase the resistance and difficulty of your exercises.
Burning 300 calories in 30 minutes should be fairly easy. However, to help make sure you hit the goal and to even exceed it, try increasing the resistance and difficulty of your exercise routine.
In general, the more challenging a workout is, the more calories you'll burn. You can increase the speed, pace, resistance, weight or add incline to make workouts more challenging.
For example, instead of just running at a steady pace, alternate between jogging and sprinting or jogging on a flat surface to jogging on an incline.
You'll burn more calories per 30 minutes when you add in these fluctuating levels of difficulty.
In addition, you can try doing one set of a resistance exercise every 5 to 10 minutes during your cardio workout, such as doing bicep curls or pushups. You can also try increasing the resistance on cardio machines - like the elliptical or spin bike.
2-2. Increase the length of your workouts.
Although you may only have 30 minutes to work out most days, if you can, try increasing the length of your workouts. This will help you increase how many calories you can burn.
You may not have time for a 45-minute run or a 60-minute spin class. However, even small additions in time can make a difference when it comes to the total amount of calories you burn.
Some studies have shown that an additional 5 to 10 minutes can help you burn an extra 50 to 100 calories.
If weight loss is your goal, try going for 35 to 40 minute workouts whenever you can. The other days you can stick to those higher intensity exercises to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes.
2-3. Incorporate strength training.
You might not consider strength or resistance training to be a big calorie burner. And by itself, it's not. But when combined with aerobic exercise, it can help you burn more calories.
When you have more muscle mass, your body (and metabolism) automatically burns more calories. That's because muscle tissue is active and requires more energy.
When you're performing aerobic exercise or even when you're at rest, the more muscle mass you have, the more calories you'll burn.
Most health professionals recommend that you include one to two days of strength training throughout the week. You need to work every major muscle group and your workout should be at least 20 minutes in length.
2-4. Exercise in the mornings.
Another trick to help you burn more calories (especially from fat) is by working out in the morning. Try switching your exercise routine around so your sweat session is in the morning.
Studies have shown that those people who work out in the morning before breakfast burn more calories total and burn more of those calories from fat.
Try setting your alarm clock for 30 minutes earlier than normal. This will allow you to get up in just enough time to burn off those 300 calories.
Although you may not like getting up earlier those first few days, after a while it'll feel more routine and you'll find it easier to wake up.
2-5. Move more during the day.
Another way to help increase your calorie burn over the course of the whole day is by moving more. This increased lifestyle activity can help you torch more calories all day long.
Lifestyle activities are those activities or exercises that you do as part of your regular day. Walking to and from your car or house, taking the stairs, sweeping the floor or cleaning are great examples.
Try to increase how many steps you take in a day or how often you're moving around.
For example, instead of bringing in the grocery bags a few at a time, carry in one at a time. You can extend a quick job to 10 minutes, take more steps and you could burn close to 100 calories.
3. Modifying Your Diet and Lifestyle to Burn More Calories
3-1. Get more sleep.
To help your body burn more calories naturally, make sure you're getting enough sleep. When you're sleep deprived it can affect your metabolism and how many calories your body burns.
Health professionals recommend that adults get about 7 to 9 hours of sleep each night.
That might mean you need to go to bed earlier or set your alarm clock for later in the morning.
3-2. Drink more water.
In addition to getting a good night's rest, it's also important to make sure you're drinking enough water during the day. This can affect your weight long-term.
Drinking more water doesn't necessarily help you burn more calories. However, it can help keep your appetite at bay and prevent excess snacking or overeating.
Aim for at least 64 oz of clear hydrating fluids each day. In addition, stick to the most hydrating fluids like water, flavored water, sparkling water, decaf coffee and tea.
To minimize calorie intake, stay away from liquid calories. Drinking beverages like alcohol, sodas, fruit juice, sweet tea or coffee can work against those 300 calories you burned during your workout.
3-3. Moderate your portion sizes.
If you're working hard to burn 300 calories, try to support that effort by eating well. Keep portions in control to help minimize your total calorie intake during the day.
It's important to measure out your portion sizes. Guesstimating how much you're supposed to eat generally results in overeating. Take the time to use a food scale or measuring cups to track your portions.
For protein based foods, measure out a 3 to 4 oz serving or about a 1/2 cup per serving.
For fruits, measure out a 1/2 cup of chopped fruit, 1/4 cup of dried fruit or about 1 small piece per serving.
Vegetables have a bigger serving size. Measure out 1 cup or 2 cups of leafy salad greens per serving.
Grains should be measured to a 1/2 cup or about 2 oz total per serving. Also, make sure to measure grains after they've been cooked (like pasta or rice).
3-4. Manage stress.
Keep your metabolism functioning at a higher level by managing your stress. Over time, chronic stress will effect how many calories your body can burn during the day.
Recent research has shown that under stress, your body will burn less calories overall because your metabolism naturally slows.
In addition, this stress causes an increase in appetite and the desire for higher fat, higher carb foods.
If you have a stress lifestyle, job or home life, work on managing this stress better.
Consider: calling a friend to vent, going for a walk, doing meditation, listening to music or reading.
If you're having difficulty managing your stress, consider seeking extra help from a behavioral specialist.
Tips
The best way to burn 300 calories is from a combination of exercise and a modified diet.
If you're not in good enough shape to work out at a moderate intensity, it may be difficult to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes. Work on improving your fitness ability to help meet this goal.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding Exercises to Burn 300 Calories in 30 Minutes\\n1-1. Go for a jog.\\nOne great calorie burning exercise to try is jogging. It's a higher impact exercise that requires the use of many large muscle groups to perform.\\nTo burn at least 300 calories in a half an hour, you have to jog or run. Aim for your pace to be around a 10-minute mile or 6 mph (if you're on the treadmill).\\nKeep in mind that the number of calories you burn during any type of exercise will depend on factors like your sex, age, weight, and effort level.\\nNote that the faster your pace, the more calories you'll burn in that 30 minute time span.\\nAlthough it's commonly believed that walking burns the same calories per mile as running, it'll take you more than 30 minutes to walk 3 to 4 miles.\\n1-2. Take a spin class.\\nA high intensity aerobic exercise you can also try is a spin class. These classes are notoriously challenging and will help you torch calories in a short amount of time.\\nThe reason why a spin class is so good at burning calories is that it alternates between moderate and high intensities, requires you to use large muscle groups (like your legs) and keeps your heart rate elevated.\\nYou may burn around 400 calories in 30 minutes of spinning depending on your age, weight, sex, and effort level.\\nNote that you need to make sure you're working at a minimum of moderate intensity to reach this calorie goal. This means keeping the resistance up and not taking many breaks.\\nMany spin classes run for an hour. Check your gym’s class schedule to see if they offer any 30 minute classes.\\n1-3. Sign up for an aerobics class.\\nIf you're more of a group exercise type of person, consider signing up for some aerobics classes. Many of these are high in intensity and will help you meet your 300 calorie goal.\\nLook over the fitness class schedule at your gym. See if there are any fitness classes that are designed to burn a lot of calories.\\nFor example, some high intensity Zumba, kick boxing, high intensity interval training (HIIT), circuit training or step aerobics classes will help you meet your calorie burn goal.\\nMany of these classes can help you burn around 300 calories in 30 minutes. Make sure you're working at a higher intensity.\\n1-4. Grab a jump rope.\\nA fun exercise you can do is jumping rope. Bring back childhood memories and torch about 300 calories in 30 minutes.\\nYou might be surprised to know that jumping rope is a great calorie burn. While you do need to work harder than a game of Double Dutch, it's a great form of exercise.\\nIn general, moderate to high intensity versions of jumping rope can help you burn about 350 calories in 30 minutes. But remember that the amount of calories you burn may be more or less depending on your weight, age, sex, and effort level.\\nIncrease the intensity or difficulty by changing speeds, crossing the rope in front of you or jumping on one leg.\\n1-5. Go for a swim.\\nSome forms of swimming can also help you burn calories in a short amount of time. Plus, these pool workouts are easier on your joints.\\nSwimming, like the rowing machine, recruits just about every major muscle group in your body. This is why it's such a great exercise for higher calorie burns.\\nIn general, treading water or swimming laps may burn just around 300 calories in a half an hour.\\nHowever, if you do harder or more difficult strokes, the total calories you burn will increase. For example, doing the butterfly stroke or crawl may burn around 330 calories in a half an hour.\\n1-6. Get on the rowing machine.\\nIf you want to use a machine, the rowing machine might be a good option for you. This may help you meet your 300 calorie goal.\\nOne of the reasons that the rowing machine can help you burn so many calories is that it requires you to use large muscle groups.\\nWhen you have more muscles engaged, your body needs to use more energy (or calories) to fuel those muscles.\\nRemember that calories burned will depend on factors such as your age, weight, sex, and effort level. For example, in a 30-minute time period, a 30 year old 180 pound male working at 75% of his full capacity may burn about 316 calories.\\n2. Helping Your Body Burn More Calories\\n2-1. Increase the resistance and difficulty of your exercises.\\nBurning 300 calories in 30 minutes should be fairly easy. However, to help make sure you hit the goal and to even exceed it, try increasing the resistance and difficulty of your exercise routine.\\nIn general, the more challenging a workout is, the more calories you'll burn. You can increase the speed, pace, resistance, weight or add incline to make workouts more challenging.\\nFor example, instead of just running at a steady pace, alternate between jogging and sprinting or jogging on a flat surface to jogging on an incline.\\nYou'll burn more calories per 30 minutes when you add in these fluctuating levels of difficulty.\\nIn addition, you can try doing one set of a resistance exercise every 5 to 10 minutes during your cardio workout, such as doing bicep curls or pushups. You can also try increasing the resistance on cardio machines - like the elliptical or spin bike.\\n2-2. Increase the length of your workouts.\\nAlthough you may only have 30 minutes to work out most days, if you can, try increasing the length of your workouts. This will help you increase how many calories you can burn.\\nYou may not have time for a 45-minute run or a 60-minute spin class. However, even small additions in time can make a difference when it comes to the total amount of calories you burn.\\nSome studies have shown that an additional 5 to 10 minutes can help you burn an extra 50 to 100 calories.\\nIf weight loss is your goal, try going for 35 to 40 minute workouts whenever you can. The other days you can stick to those higher intensity exercises to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes.\\n2-3. Incorporate strength training.\\nYou might not consider strength or resistance training to be a big calorie burner. And by itself, it's not. But when combined with aerobic exercise, it can help you burn more calories.\\nWhen you have more muscle mass, your body (and metabolism) automatically burns more calories. That's because muscle tissue is active and requires more energy.\\nWhen you're performing aerobic exercise or even when you're at rest, the more muscle mass you have, the more calories you'll burn.\\nMost health professionals recommend that you include one to two days of strength training throughout the week. You need to work every major muscle group and your workout should be at least 20 minutes in length.\\n2-4. Exercise in the mornings.\\nAnother trick to help you burn more calories (especially from fat) is by working out in the morning. Try switching your exercise routine around so your sweat session is in the morning.\\nStudies have shown that those people who work out in the morning before breakfast burn more calories total and burn more of those calories from fat.\\nTry setting your alarm clock for 30 minutes earlier than normal. This will allow you to get up in just enough time to burn off those 300 calories.\\nAlthough you may not like getting up earlier those first few days, after a while it'll feel more routine and you'll find it easier to wake up.\\n2-5. Move more during the day.\\nAnother way to help increase your calorie burn over the course of the whole day is by moving more. This increased lifestyle activity can help you torch more calories all day long.\\nLifestyle activities are those activities or exercises that you do as part of your regular day. Walking to and from your car or house, taking the stairs, sweeping the floor or cleaning are great examples.\\nTry to increase how many steps you take in a day or how often you're moving around.\\nFor example, instead of bringing in the grocery bags a few at a time, carry in one at a time. You can extend a quick job to 10 minutes, take more steps and you could burn close to 100 calories.\\n3. Modifying Your Diet and Lifestyle to Burn More Calories\\n3-1. Get more sleep.\\nTo help your body burn more calories naturally, make sure you're getting enough sleep. When you're sleep deprived it can affect your metabolism and how many calories your body burns.\\nHealth professionals recommend that adults get about 7 to 9 hours of sleep each night.\\nThat might mean you need to go to bed earlier or set your alarm clock for later in the morning.\\n3-2. Drink more water.\\nIn addition to getting a good night's rest, it's also important to make sure you're drinking enough water during the day. This can affect your weight long-term.\\nDrinking more water doesn't necessarily help you burn more calories. However, it can help keep your appetite at bay and prevent excess snacking or overeating.\\nAim for at least 64 oz of clear hydrating fluids each day. In addition, stick to the most hydrating fluids like water, flavored water, sparkling water, decaf coffee and tea.\\nTo minimize calorie intake, stay away from liquid calories. Drinking beverages like alcohol, sodas, fruit juice, sweet tea or coffee can work against those 300 calories you burned during your workout.\\n3-3. Moderate your portion sizes.\\nIf you're working hard to burn 300 calories, try to support that effort by eating well. Keep portions in control to help minimize your total calorie intake during the day.\\nIt's important to measure out your portion sizes. Guesstimating how much you're supposed to eat generally results in overeating. Take the time to use a food scale or measuring cups to track your portions.\\nFor protein based foods, measure out a 3 to 4 oz serving or about a 1/2 cup per serving.\\nFor fruits, measure out a 1/2 cup of chopped fruit, 1/4 cup of dried fruit or about 1 small piece per serving.\\nVegetables have a bigger serving size. Measure out 1 cup or 2 cups of leafy salad greens per serving.\\nGrains should be measured to a 1/2 cup or about 2 oz total per serving. Also, make sure to measure grains after they've been cooked (like pasta or rice).\\n3-4. Manage stress.\\nKeep your metabolism functioning at a higher level by managing your stress. Over time, chronic stress will effect how many calories your body can burn during the day.\\nRecent research has shown that under stress, your body will burn less calories overall because your metabolism naturally slows.\\nIn addition, this stress causes an increase in appetite and the desire for higher fat, higher carb foods.\\nIf you have a stress lifestyle, job or home life, work on managing this stress better.\\nConsider: calling a friend to vent, going for a walk, doing meditation, listening to music or reading.\\nIf you're having difficulty managing your stress, consider seeking extra help from a behavioral specialist.\\nTips\\nThe best way to burn 300 calories is from a combination of exercise and a modified diet.\\nIf you're not in good enough shape to work out at a moderate intensity, it may be difficult to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes. Work on improving your fitness ability to help meet this goal.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you're trying to lose weight, increasing how many calories you burn may help you meet your weight goals quicker. However, with busy schedules and lifestyles, it might be hard to find enough time to spend exercising. To ensure that you get a good calorie burn in a limited amount of time, focus on exercising vigorously during the 30 minutes you have. Also, keep in mind that getting 30 minutes of exercise is better than 0 minutes. With the right type and intensity of exercise, you can burn up to 300 calories in a half hour time period.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding Exercises to Burn 300 Calories in 30 Minutes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go for a jog.\", \"描述\": \"One great calorie burning exercise to try is jogging. It's a higher impact exercise that requires the use of many large muscle groups to perform.\\nTo burn at least 300 calories in a half an hour, you have to jog or run. Aim for your pace to be around a 10-minute mile or 6 mph (if you're on the treadmill).\\nKeep in mind that the number of calories you burn during any type of exercise will depend on factors like your sex, age, weight, and effort level.\\nNote that the faster your pace, the more calories you'll burn in that 30 minute time span.\\nAlthough it's commonly believed that walking burns the same calories per mile as running, it'll take you more than 30 minutes to walk 3 to 4 miles.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take a spin class.\", \"描述\": \"A high intensity aerobic exercise you can also try is a spin class. These classes are notoriously challenging and will help you torch calories in a short amount of time.\\nThe reason why a spin class is so good at burning calories is that it alternates between moderate and high intensities, requires you to use large muscle groups (like your legs) and keeps your heart rate elevated.\\nYou may burn around 400 calories in 30 minutes of spinning depending on your age, weight, sex, and effort level.\\nNote that you need to make sure you're working at a minimum of moderate intensity to reach this calorie goal. This means keeping the resistance up and not taking many breaks.\\nMany spin classes run for an hour. Check your gym’s class schedule to see if they offer any 30 minute classes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sign up for an aerobics class.\", \"描述\": \"If you're more of a group exercise type of person, consider signing up for some aerobics classes. Many of these are high in intensity and will help you meet your 300 calorie goal.\\nLook over the fitness class schedule at your gym. See if there are any fitness classes that are designed to burn a lot of calories.\\nFor example, some high intensity Zumba, kick boxing, high intensity interval training (HIIT), circuit training or step aerobics classes will help you meet your calorie burn goal.\\nMany of these classes can help you burn around 300 calories in 30 minutes. Make sure you're working at a higher intensity.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Grab a jump rope.\", \"描述\": \"A fun exercise you can do is jumping rope. Bring back childhood memories and torch about 300 calories in 30 minutes.\\nYou might be surprised to know that jumping rope is a great calorie burn. While you do need to work harder than a game of Double Dutch, it's a great form of exercise.\\nIn general, moderate to high intensity versions of jumping rope can help you burn about 350 calories in 30 minutes. But remember that the amount of calories you burn may be more or less depending on your weight, age, sex, and effort level.\\nIncrease the intensity or difficulty by changing speeds, crossing the rope in front of you or jumping on one leg.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Go for a swim.\", \"描述\": \"Some forms of swimming can also help you burn calories in a short amount of time. Plus, these pool workouts are easier on your joints.\\nSwimming, like the rowing machine, recruits just about every major muscle group in your body. This is why it's such a great exercise for higher calorie burns.\\nIn general, treading water or swimming laps may burn just around 300 calories in a half an hour.\\nHowever, if you do harder or more difficult strokes, the total calories you burn will increase. For example, doing the butterfly stroke or crawl may burn around 330 calories in a half an hour.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get on the rowing machine.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to use a machine, the rowing machine might be a good option for you. This may help you meet your 300 calorie goal.\\nOne of the reasons that the rowing machine can help you burn so many calories is that it requires you to use large muscle groups.\\nWhen you have more muscles engaged, your body needs to use more energy (or calories) to fuel those muscles.\\nRemember that calories burned will depend on factors such as your age, weight, sex, and effort level. For example, in a 30-minute time period, a 30 year old 180 pound male working at 75% of his full capacity may burn about 316 calories.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Helping Your Body Burn More Calories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Increase the resistance and difficulty of your exercises.\", \"描述\": \"Burning 300 calories in 30 minutes should be fairly easy. However, to help make sure you hit the goal and to even exceed it, try increasing the resistance and difficulty of your exercise routine.\\nIn general, the more challenging a workout is, the more calories you'll burn. You can increase the speed, pace, resistance, weight or add incline to make workouts more challenging.\\nFor example, instead of just running at a steady pace, alternate between jogging and sprinting or jogging on a flat surface to jogging on an incline.\\nYou'll burn more calories per 30 minutes when you add in these fluctuating levels of difficulty.\\nIn addition, you can try doing one set of a resistance exercise every 5 to 10 minutes during your cardio workout, such as doing bicep curls or pushups. You can also try increasing the resistance on cardio machines - like the elliptical or spin bike.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Increase the length of your workouts.\", \"描述\": \"Although you may only have 30 minutes to work out most days, if you can, try increasing the length of your workouts. This will help you increase how many calories you can burn.\\nYou may not have time for a 45-minute run or a 60-minute spin class. However, even small additions in time can make a difference when it comes to the total amount of calories you burn.\\nSome studies have shown that an additional 5 to 10 minutes can help you burn an extra 50 to 100 calories.\\nIf weight loss is your goal, try going for 35 to 40 minute workouts whenever you can. The other days you can stick to those higher intensity exercises to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Incorporate strength training.\", \"描述\": \"You might not consider strength or resistance training to be a big calorie burner. And by itself, it's not. But when combined with aerobic exercise, it can help you burn more calories.\\nWhen you have more muscle mass, your body (and metabolism) automatically burns more calories. That's because muscle tissue is active and requires more energy.\\nWhen you're performing aerobic exercise or even when you're at rest, the more muscle mass you have, the more calories you'll burn.\\nMost health professionals recommend that you include one to two days of strength training throughout the week. You need to work every major muscle group and your workout should be at least 20 minutes in length.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Exercise in the mornings.\", \"描述\": \"Another trick to help you burn more calories (especially from fat) is by working out in the morning. Try switching your exercise routine around so your sweat session is in the morning.\\nStudies have shown that those people who work out in the morning before breakfast burn more calories total and burn more of those calories from fat.\\nTry setting your alarm clock for 30 minutes earlier than normal. This will allow you to get up in just enough time to burn off those 300 calories.\\nAlthough you may not like getting up earlier those first few days, after a while it'll feel more routine and you'll find it easier to wake up.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Move more during the day.\", \"描述\": \"Another way to help increase your calorie burn over the course of the whole day is by moving more. This increased lifestyle activity can help you torch more calories all day long.\\nLifestyle activities are those activities or exercises that you do as part of your regular day. Walking to and from your car or house, taking the stairs, sweeping the floor or cleaning are great examples.\\nTry to increase how many steps you take in a day or how often you're moving around.\\nFor example, instead of bringing in the grocery bags a few at a time, carry in one at a time. You can extend a quick job to 10 minutes, take more steps and you could burn close to 100 calories.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Modifying Your Diet and Lifestyle to Burn More Calories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get more sleep.\", \"描述\": \"To help your body burn more calories naturally, make sure you're getting enough sleep. When you're sleep deprived it can affect your metabolism and how many calories your body burns.\\nHealth professionals recommend that adults get about 7 to 9 hours of sleep each night.\\nThat might mean you need to go to bed earlier or set your alarm clock for later in the morning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drink more water.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to getting a good night's rest, it's also important to make sure you're drinking enough water during the day. This can affect your weight long-term.\\nDrinking more water doesn't necessarily help you burn more calories. However, it can help keep your appetite at bay and prevent excess snacking or overeating.\\nAim for at least 64 oz of clear hydrating fluids each day. In addition, stick to the most hydrating fluids like water, flavored water, sparkling water, decaf coffee and tea.\\nTo minimize calorie intake, stay away from liquid calories. Drinking beverages like alcohol, sodas, fruit juice, sweet tea or coffee can work against those 300 calories you burned during your workout.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Moderate your portion sizes.\", \"描述\": \"If you're working hard to burn 300 calories, try to support that effort by eating well. Keep portions in control to help minimize your total calorie intake during the day.\\nIt's important to measure out your portion sizes. Guesstimating how much you're supposed to eat generally results in overeating. Take the time to use a food scale or measuring cups to track your portions.\\nFor protein based foods, measure out a 3 to 4 oz serving or about a 1/2 cup per serving.\\nFor fruits, measure out a 1/2 cup of chopped fruit, 1/4 cup of dried fruit or about 1 small piece per serving.\\nVegetables have a bigger serving size. Measure out 1 cup or 2 cups of leafy salad greens per serving.\\nGrains should be measured to a 1/2 cup or about 2 oz total per serving. Also, make sure to measure grains after they've been cooked (like pasta or rice).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Manage stress.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your metabolism functioning at a higher level by managing your stress. Over time, chronic stress will effect how many calories your body can burn during the day.\\nRecent research has shown that under stress, your body will burn less calories overall because your metabolism naturally slows.\\nIn addition, this stress causes an increase in appetite and the desire for higher fat, higher carb foods.\\nIf you have a stress lifestyle, job or home life, work on managing this stress better.\\nConsider: calling a friend to vent, going for a walk, doing meditation, listening to music or reading.\\nIf you're having difficulty managing your stress, consider seeking extra help from a behavioral specialist.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The best way to burn 300 calories is from a combination of exercise and a modified diet.\\n\", \"If you're not in good enough shape to work out at a moderate intensity, it may be difficult to burn 300 calories in 30 minutes. Work on improving your fitness ability to help meet this goal.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,706 |
How to Burn Belly Fat Fast
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1. Changing Your Diet Style
1-1. Cut back on calories.
The most important part of losing weight is not working out until you collapse — it's your diet. If you burn 500 to 750 more calories than what you eat every day, you will lose 1–2 pounds every week (any more than that is considered unsafe weight loss). There are tons of little changes you can make to cut calories from your diet, from replacing high-calorie dressings with vinaigrette and asking for all dressings/sauces served on the side, eating at the table instead of in front of the tv, skipping cheese and other fatty additions to your salads and meals, using smaller plates, leave off the whipped cream on your coffee drink, and on and on.
1-2. Eat more protein.
Protein is required by the body to repair damaged cells and plays a vital role in growth and development. But it can also play a role in weight loss. Diets high in protein tend to make people feel fuller, and when paired with a reduction in carbohydrate intake these diets can help with weight loss. However, it's important to remember that not all sources of protein are good for you: red meat and full-fat dairy products, though high in protein, can also increase the risk of heart disease. Good sources of protein include:
Soy protein
Legumes and beans
Nuts
Fish
Skinless poultry
Lean beef or pork
Fat-free or low-fat dairy products
1-3. Eat polyunsaturated fats.
While saturated fat leads to the body's retention of visceral fat, causing abdominal girth and excessive weight gain, studies have shown that a diet high in polyunsaturated fat helps promote the production of muscle mass instead of body fat. Polyunsaturated fats can also help reduce cholesterol levels in the body, lowering the risk of stroke and heart disease. Sources of polyunsaturated fats include:
Olive oil
Soybean oil
Corn oil
Sunflower oil
Salmon
Mackerel
Herring
Trout
Walnuts
Sunflower seeds
Tofu
Soybean
1-4. Eat low-glycemic-index foods.
Foods that are low on the glycemic index (GI) are digested and absorbed more slowly than high-index foods, and when coupled with increased physical activity a low-GI diet has been shown to be effective in losing weight. Foods that are low on the glycemic index include:
Beans and lentils
Apples
Apricots
Bananas
Carrots
Corn
Mango
Oranges
Certain types of pasta
1-5. Avoid processed foods.
Processed foods are often reached for as comfort food. But certain processed foods, like refined grains and refined sugars, increase inflammation in the body, and have been linked to excess belly fat.
1-6. Drink green tea.
Some studies suggest that drinking green tea (including decaffeinated green tea) or taking green tea extracts can increase the body's rate of fat oxidation and may decrease overall body fat. The studies used green tea extract, administered by capsule, but dieters may also get some of the same benefits from drinking green tea.
1-7. Get enough calcium.
Adults typically need around 1,000 milligrams of calcium every day to help maintain muscle and nerve function, and it's necessary for healthy bones and teeth. But calcium may also help prevent the body from storing visceral fat in the abdomen. Though studies have not shown a drastic change in weight due to increased calcium intake, researchers suggest that it may have a small effect in some people. Calcium requires vitamin D to be absorbed into the body; therefore, be sure to get enough vitamin D as well. Sources of calcium include:
Dietary supplements
Non-fat or low-fat milk and dairy products
Kale
Salmon
Tofu (with calcium sulfate)
2. Exercising and Staying Active
2-1. Set goals.
Making goals will help you stay motivated by giving you something concrete to work toward. Setting SMART goals is widely considered the best way to set goals and stay on track.
SMART goals are: pecific, easurable, ttainable, ealistic and ime constrained. For instance, instead of saying, "I want to be stronger," your goal is something like, "I want to be able to bench press 100 pounds, three times in a row, three months from now." Or, "I want to lose 10 pounds in the next 4 months."
Once you have set your goals, you can make a plan to achieve them. What do you need to do to achieve your goal?
As you approach your goal, start thinking about your next SMART goal to set and achieve.
2-2. Focus on cardiovascular exercise.
Cardiovascular exercise is one of the best ways to lose weight. Studies show that cardiovascular exercise like walking, jogging, and running is highly effective at any degree of intensity. That's because cardio/aerobic exercise works the muscles in your arms, legs, and hips, and increases blood flow to all sets of muscles. Effective cardio exercises include:
Walking
Jogging/running
Bicycling
Swimming
Skiing
Stair climbing
Elliptical training
Rowing
Aerobic dancing
2-3. Lose fat with high-intensity interval training (HIIT).
If you're trying to lose weight fast, HIIT training can super-charge your metabolism for upwards of 24 hours after exercising. This means your body will continue burning calories long after you've ended your workout. HIIT burns more calories in less time than steady-state cardio. In one study, researchers looked at two groups, one running for 30 to 60 minutes three times per week, the other doing four to six 30-second treadmill sprints, resting for four to six minutes between each sprint. After six weeks, it was found that the group doing HIIT training lost more weight.
For HIIT to work, you need to be giving about 90% all-out effort during the high-interval portion. This means not walking, jogging or even running — you should be sprinting, unable to carry on a conversation.
Start out with high-intensity intervals that last for 30 seconds, then rest (by walking or doing low-intensity exercise, not by standing still) for a minute. Eventually you'll want to do your high-intensity training for longer periods (try 60 to 90 seconds) and decrease your rest periods to a 1:1 ratio.
Start your HIIT workout with a five minute warmup, then do 20 minutes of HIIT, and then cool down for another five minutes.
Try biking, sprinting, and rowing.
2-4. Lift weights.
Weight training is a great tool for losing weight, toning muscles and it can actually help your body burn calories more efficiently. Experts recommend incorporating two to three weight-training sessions per week, with noticeable results in just a few weeks.
2-5. Work your core.
When many people think of core strengthening, they think of stomach crunches. Crunches are helpful for building abdominal muscles, but contrary to popular belief, crunches won't do much to lose the layer of fat stored in your belly, and can actually cause significant damage to the spine. Instead, try a workout routine that strengthens your whole core, like yoga, or try abdominal presses and planking.
3. Making Lifestyle Changes
3-1. Get enough sleep each night.
Studies have shown that getting less than five hours of sleep each night or more than nine hours of sleep can result in an increase in weight gain. Some studies further show that not getting enough sleep increases the body's cravings for high-calorie foods, and led to an overall increase in caloric intake.
Adults should get between seven and nine hours of sleep each night.
3-2. Keep your stress levels low.
Stress causes the body to crave fatty foods, often called "comfort food", and can also lead to snacking or eating when the body isn't actually hungry. Finding ways to lower your stress levels can help you feel better and may help you lose weight faster.
3-3. Increase or vary your activity level.
Try something new. That will help keep you interested and wanting to do more. Repeating the same workout at the gym for month after month will lead to a plateau where you will stop seeing gains. Try something different, or hire a trainer to give some variety to your exercise program.
3-4. Stay motivated.
Often times, people lose motivation to stick with a diet or an exercise routine. Finding a reason to stay motivated beyond belly fat goals, like overcoming a genetic predisposition to excess body weight or working toward fitting into your favorite article of clothing again, can help you stay motivated to meet your fitness and lifestyle goals.
Tips
Track your progress by taking measurements, taking "before and after" pictures, and weighing yourself at least once a week.
Cook meals at home when possible, and use olive oil or cooking spray rather than butter. When eating out, opt for protein-rich foods over starchy foods like pasta. Ask for dressings and sauces on the side to cut down on extra calories.
Find an exercise or diet buddy to help keep you motivated.
Warnings
Be cautious when using exercise equipment of any kind. Sometimes you can injure yourself.
If you are not currently physically active, or if you have a pre-existing medical condition, talk to your physician before beginning a new diet or exercise regiment.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Changing Your Diet Style\\n1-1. Cut back on calories.\\nThe most important part of losing weight is not working out until you collapse — it's your diet. If you burn 500 to 750 more calories than what you eat every day, you will lose 1–2 pounds every week (any more than that is considered unsafe weight loss). There are tons of little changes you can make to cut calories from your diet, from replacing high-calorie dressings with vinaigrette and asking for all dressings/sauces served on the side, eating at the table instead of in front of the tv, skipping cheese and other fatty additions to your salads and meals, using smaller plates, leave off the whipped cream on your coffee drink, and on and on.\\n1-2. Eat more protein.\\nProtein is required by the body to repair damaged cells and plays a vital role in growth and development. But it can also play a role in weight loss. Diets high in protein tend to make people feel fuller, and when paired with a reduction in carbohydrate intake these diets can help with weight loss. However, it's important to remember that not all sources of protein are good for you: red meat and full-fat dairy products, though high in protein, can also increase the risk of heart disease. Good sources of protein include:\\nSoy protein\\nLegumes and beans\\nNuts\\nFish\\nSkinless poultry\\nLean beef or pork\\nFat-free or low-fat dairy products\\n1-3. Eat polyunsaturated fats.\\nWhile saturated fat leads to the body's retention of visceral fat, causing abdominal girth and excessive weight gain, studies have shown that a diet high in polyunsaturated fat helps promote the production of muscle mass instead of body fat. Polyunsaturated fats can also help reduce cholesterol levels in the body, lowering the risk of stroke and heart disease. Sources of polyunsaturated fats include:\\nOlive oil\\nSoybean oil\\nCorn oil\\nSunflower oil\\nSalmon\\nMackerel\\nHerring\\nTrout\\nWalnuts\\nSunflower seeds\\nTofu\\nSoybean\\n1-4. Eat low-glycemic-index foods.\\nFoods that are low on the glycemic index (GI) are digested and absorbed more slowly than high-index foods, and when coupled with increased physical activity a low-GI diet has been shown to be effective in losing weight. Foods that are low on the glycemic index include:\\nBeans and lentils\\nApples\\nApricots\\nBananas\\nCarrots\\nCorn\\nMango\\nOranges\\nCertain types of pasta\\n1-5. Avoid processed foods.\\nProcessed foods are often reached for as comfort food. But certain processed foods, like refined grains and refined sugars, increase inflammation in the body, and have been linked to excess belly fat.\\n1-6. Drink green tea.\\nSome studies suggest that drinking green tea (including decaffeinated green tea) or taking green tea extracts can increase the body's rate of fat oxidation and may decrease overall body fat. The studies used green tea extract, administered by capsule, but dieters may also get some of the same benefits from drinking green tea.\\n1-7. Get enough calcium.\\nAdults typically need around 1,000 milligrams of calcium every day to help maintain muscle and nerve function, and it's necessary for healthy bones and teeth. But calcium may also help prevent the body from storing visceral fat in the abdomen. Though studies have not shown a drastic change in weight due to increased calcium intake, researchers suggest that it may have a small effect in some people. Calcium requires vitamin D to be absorbed into the body; therefore, be sure to get enough vitamin D as well. Sources of calcium include:\\nDietary supplements\\nNon-fat or low-fat milk and dairy products\\nKale\\nSalmon\\nTofu (with calcium sulfate)\\n2. Exercising and Staying Active\\n2-1. Set goals.\\nMaking goals will help you stay motivated by giving you something concrete to work toward. Setting SMART goals is widely considered the best way to set goals and stay on track. \\nSMART goals are: pecific, easurable, ttainable, ealistic and ime constrained. For instance, instead of saying, \\\"I want to be stronger,\\\" your goal is something like, \\\"I want to be able to bench press 100 pounds, three times in a row, three months from now.\\\" Or, \\\"I want to lose 10 pounds in the next 4 months.\\\"\\nOnce you have set your goals, you can make a plan to achieve them. What do you need to do to achieve your goal?\\nAs you approach your goal, start thinking about your next SMART goal to set and achieve.\\n2-2. Focus on cardiovascular exercise.\\nCardiovascular exercise is one of the best ways to lose weight. Studies show that cardiovascular exercise like walking, jogging, and running is highly effective at any degree of intensity. That's because cardio/aerobic exercise works the muscles in your arms, legs, and hips, and increases blood flow to all sets of muscles. Effective cardio exercises include:\\nWalking\\nJogging/running\\nBicycling\\nSwimming\\nSkiing\\nStair climbing\\nElliptical training\\nRowing\\nAerobic dancing\\n2-3. Lose fat with high-intensity interval training (HIIT).\\nIf you're trying to lose weight fast, HIIT training can super-charge your metabolism for upwards of 24 hours after exercising. This means your body will continue burning calories long after you've ended your workout. HIIT burns more calories in less time than steady-state cardio. In one study, researchers looked at two groups, one running for 30 to 60 minutes three times per week, the other doing four to six 30-second treadmill sprints, resting for four to six minutes between each sprint. After six weeks, it was found that the group doing HIIT training lost more weight.\\nFor HIIT to work, you need to be giving about 90% all-out effort during the high-interval portion. This means not walking, jogging or even running — you should be sprinting, unable to carry on a conversation.\\nStart out with high-intensity intervals that last for 30 seconds, then rest (by walking or doing low-intensity exercise, not by standing still) for a minute. Eventually you'll want to do your high-intensity training for longer periods (try 60 to 90 seconds) and decrease your rest periods to a 1:1 ratio.\\nStart your HIIT workout with a five minute warmup, then do 20 minutes of HIIT, and then cool down for another five minutes.\\nTry biking, sprinting, and rowing.\\n2-4. Lift weights.\\nWeight training is a great tool for losing weight, toning muscles and it can actually help your body burn calories more efficiently. Experts recommend incorporating two to three weight-training sessions per week, with noticeable results in just a few weeks.\\n2-5. Work your core.\\nWhen many people think of core strengthening, they think of stomach crunches. Crunches are helpful for building abdominal muscles, but contrary to popular belief, crunches won't do much to lose the layer of fat stored in your belly, and can actually cause significant damage to the spine. Instead, try a workout routine that strengthens your whole core, like yoga, or try abdominal presses and planking.\\n3. Making Lifestyle Changes\\n3-1. Get enough sleep each night.\\nStudies have shown that getting less than five hours of sleep each night or more than nine hours of sleep can result in an increase in weight gain. Some studies further show that not getting enough sleep increases the body's cravings for high-calorie foods, and led to an overall increase in caloric intake.\\nAdults should get between seven and nine hours of sleep each night.\\n3-2. Keep your stress levels low.\\nStress causes the body to crave fatty foods, often called \\\"comfort food\\\", and can also lead to snacking or eating when the body isn't actually hungry. Finding ways to lower your stress levels can help you feel better and may help you lose weight faster.\\n3-3. Increase or vary your activity level.\\nTry something new. That will help keep you interested and wanting to do more. Repeating the same workout at the gym for month after month will lead to a plateau where you will stop seeing gains. Try something different, or hire a trainer to give some variety to your exercise program.\\n3-4. Stay motivated.\\nOften times, people lose motivation to stick with a diet or an exercise routine. Finding a reason to stay motivated beyond belly fat goals, like overcoming a genetic predisposition to excess body weight or working toward fitting into your favorite article of clothing again, can help you stay motivated to meet your fitness and lifestyle goals.\\nTips\\nTrack your progress by taking measurements, taking \\\"before and after\\\" pictures, and weighing yourself at least once a week.\\nCook meals at home when possible, and use olive oil or cooking spray rather than butter. When eating out, opt for protein-rich foods over starchy foods like pasta. Ask for dressings and sauces on the side to cut down on extra calories.\\nFind an exercise or diet buddy to help keep you motivated.\\nWarnings\\nBe cautious when using exercise equipment of any kind. Sometimes you can injure yourself.\\nIf you are not currently physically active, or if you have a pre-existing medical condition, talk to your physician before beginning a new diet or exercise regiment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many people struggle with weight loss issues. Losing belly fat in particular is about more than just aesthetics: visceral fat, the kind of fat that tends to settle around the midsection, can cause an increase in your body's production of stress hormones that can affect your body's insulin production. As a result, excess belly fat can lead to serious complications like type 2 diabetes and heart disease. There is no way to target belly fat, but diet and exercise will eventually burn off belly fat. Knowing how to take the first step can help you feel better and get you on the road to a healthier, more active lifestyle.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Changing Your Diet Style\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut back on calories.\", \"描述\": \"The most important part of losing weight is not working out until you collapse — it's your diet. If you burn 500 to 750 more calories than what you eat every day, you will lose 1–2 pounds every week (any more than that is considered unsafe weight loss). There are tons of little changes you can make to cut calories from your diet, from replacing high-calorie dressings with vinaigrette and asking for all dressings/sauces served on the side, eating at the table instead of in front of the tv, skipping cheese and other fatty additions to your salads and meals, using smaller plates, leave off the whipped cream on your coffee drink, and on and on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Eat more protein.\", \"描述\": \"Protein is required by the body to repair damaged cells and plays a vital role in growth and development. But it can also play a role in weight loss. Diets high in protein tend to make people feel fuller, and when paired with a reduction in carbohydrate intake these diets can help with weight loss. However, it's important to remember that not all sources of protein are good for you: red meat and full-fat dairy products, though high in protein, can also increase the risk of heart disease. Good sources of protein include:\\nSoy protein\\nLegumes and beans\\nNuts\\nFish\\nSkinless poultry\\nLean beef or pork\\nFat-free or low-fat dairy products\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat polyunsaturated fats.\", \"描述\": \"While saturated fat leads to the body's retention of visceral fat, causing abdominal girth and excessive weight gain, studies have shown that a diet high in polyunsaturated fat helps promote the production of muscle mass instead of body fat. Polyunsaturated fats can also help reduce cholesterol levels in the body, lowering the risk of stroke and heart disease. Sources of polyunsaturated fats include:\\nOlive oil\\nSoybean oil\\nCorn oil\\nSunflower oil\\nSalmon\\nMackerel\\nHerring\\nTrout\\nWalnuts\\nSunflower seeds\\nTofu\\nSoybean\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Eat low-glycemic-index foods.\", \"描述\": \"Foods that are low on the glycemic index (GI) are digested and absorbed more slowly than high-index foods, and when coupled with increased physical activity a low-GI diet has been shown to be effective in losing weight. Foods that are low on the glycemic index include:\\nBeans and lentils\\nApples\\nApricots\\nBananas\\nCarrots\\nCorn\\nMango\\nOranges\\nCertain types of pasta\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid processed foods.\", \"描述\": \"Processed foods are often reached for as comfort food. But certain processed foods, like refined grains and refined sugars, increase inflammation in the body, and have been linked to excess belly fat.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drink green tea.\", \"描述\": \"Some studies suggest that drinking green tea (including decaffeinated green tea) or taking green tea extracts can increase the body's rate of fat oxidation and may decrease overall body fat. The studies used green tea extract, administered by capsule, but dieters may also get some of the same benefits from drinking green tea.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Get enough calcium.\", \"描述\": \"Adults typically need around 1,000 milligrams of calcium every day to help maintain muscle and nerve function, and it's necessary for healthy bones and teeth. But calcium may also help prevent the body from storing visceral fat in the abdomen. Though studies have not shown a drastic change in weight due to increased calcium intake, researchers suggest that it may have a small effect in some people. Calcium requires vitamin D to be absorbed into the body; therefore, be sure to get enough vitamin D as well. Sources of calcium include:\\nDietary supplements\\nNon-fat or low-fat milk and dairy products\\nKale\\nSalmon\\nTofu (with calcium sulfate)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Exercising and Staying Active\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set goals.\", \"描述\": \"Making goals will help you stay motivated by giving you something concrete to work toward. Setting SMART goals is widely considered the best way to set goals and stay on track. \\nSMART goals are: pecific, easurable, ttainable, ealistic and ime constrained. For instance, instead of saying, \\\"I want to be stronger,\\\" your goal is something like, \\\"I want to be able to bench press 100 pounds, three times in a row, three months from now.\\\" Or, \\\"I want to lose 10 pounds in the next 4 months.\\\"\\nOnce you have set your goals, you can make a plan to achieve them. What do you need to do to achieve your goal?\\nAs you approach your goal, start thinking about your next SMART goal to set and achieve.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Focus on cardiovascular exercise.\", \"描述\": \"Cardiovascular exercise is one of the best ways to lose weight. Studies show that cardiovascular exercise like walking, jogging, and running is highly effective at any degree of intensity. That's because cardio/aerobic exercise works the muscles in your arms, legs, and hips, and increases blood flow to all sets of muscles. Effective cardio exercises include:\\nWalking\\nJogging/running\\nBicycling\\nSwimming\\nSkiing\\nStair climbing\\nElliptical training\\nRowing\\nAerobic dancing\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lose fat with high-intensity interval training (HIIT).\", \"描述\": \"If you're trying to lose weight fast, HIIT training can super-charge your metabolism for upwards of 24 hours after exercising. This means your body will continue burning calories long after you've ended your workout. HIIT burns more calories in less time than steady-state cardio. In one study, researchers looked at two groups, one running for 30 to 60 minutes three times per week, the other doing four to six 30-second treadmill sprints, resting for four to six minutes between each sprint. After six weeks, it was found that the group doing HIIT training lost more weight.\\nFor HIIT to work, you need to be giving about 90% all-out effort during the high-interval portion. This means not walking, jogging or even running — you should be sprinting, unable to carry on a conversation.\\nStart out with high-intensity intervals that last for 30 seconds, then rest (by walking or doing low-intensity exercise, not by standing still) for a minute. Eventually you'll want to do your high-intensity training for longer periods (try 60 to 90 seconds) and decrease your rest periods to a 1:1 ratio.\\nStart your HIIT workout with a five minute warmup, then do 20 minutes of HIIT, and then cool down for another five minutes.\\nTry biking, sprinting, and rowing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lift weights.\", \"描述\": \"Weight training is a great tool for losing weight, toning muscles and it can actually help your body burn calories more efficiently. Experts recommend incorporating two to three weight-training sessions per week, with noticeable results in just a few weeks.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Work your core.\", \"描述\": \"When many people think of core strengthening, they think of stomach crunches. Crunches are helpful for building abdominal muscles, but contrary to popular belief, crunches won't do much to lose the layer of fat stored in your belly, and can actually cause significant damage to the spine. Instead, try a workout routine that strengthens your whole core, like yoga, or try abdominal presses and planking.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making Lifestyle Changes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get enough sleep each night.\", \"描述\": \"Studies have shown that getting less than five hours of sleep each night or more than nine hours of sleep can result in an increase in weight gain. Some studies further show that not getting enough sleep increases the body's cravings for high-calorie foods, and led to an overall increase in caloric intake.\\nAdults should get between seven and nine hours of sleep each night.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep your stress levels low.\", \"描述\": \"Stress causes the body to crave fatty foods, often called \\\"comfort food\\\", and can also lead to snacking or eating when the body isn't actually hungry. Finding ways to lower your stress levels can help you feel better and may help you lose weight faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Increase or vary your activity level.\", \"描述\": \"Try something new. That will help keep you interested and wanting to do more. Repeating the same workout at the gym for month after month will lead to a plateau where you will stop seeing gains. Try something different, or hire a trainer to give some variety to your exercise program.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stay motivated.\", \"描述\": \"Often times, people lose motivation to stick with a diet or an exercise routine. Finding a reason to stay motivated beyond belly fat goals, like overcoming a genetic predisposition to excess body weight or working toward fitting into your favorite article of clothing again, can help you stay motivated to meet your fitness and lifestyle goals.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Track your progress by taking measurements, taking \\\"before and after\\\" pictures, and weighing yourself at least once a week.\\n\", \"Cook meals at home when possible, and use olive oil or cooking spray rather than butter. When eating out, opt for protein-rich foods over starchy foods like pasta. Ask for dressings and sauces on the side to cut down on extra calories.\\n\", \"Find an exercise or diet buddy to help keep you motivated.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be cautious when using exercise equipment of any kind. Sometimes you can injure yourself.\\n\", \"If you are not currently physically active, or if you have a pre-existing medical condition, talk to your physician before beginning a new diet or exercise regiment.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,707 |
How to Burn Calories
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1. Moving More to Burn Calories
1-1. Incorporate at least 30 minutes of cardio into your daily routine.
The best way to burn more calories is to incorporate more exercise into your daily routine. Cardiovascular exercises like walking, running, swimming, and biking help you to burn calories even after you have finished. You should aim for at least 30 minutes per day, but keep in mind that the longer you work out, the longer your body will keep burning calories after you have finished.
1-2. Add strength training to burn more calories while your body is at rest.
Muscle burns 2.5 times more calories than fat, so the more muscle that you have on your body, the more calories you will burn when your body is at rest. If you don’t already have a strength training regimen, add strength training into your daily routine.
Focus your strength training on large muscle groups for maximum burn, such as the thighs, arms, abdomen, back and chest.
1-3. Look for little ways to burn more calories.
The more you move throughout the day, the more calories you will burn. Add small bursts of exercise throughout your day to increase your overall calorie burn. Park further away from the entrance at the mall, take the stairs instead of the elevator, or do some lunges or crunches during commercial breaks when watching TV.
1-4. Fidget.
Studies show that lean people fidget for about 150 minutes a day more than obese people do. That kind of low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can burn 350 calories a day, which translates into 10 – 30 pounds a year! It's called Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT) and it includes any movement that isn't intended as exercise. You can burn an extra 100 – 150 calories an hour by increasing NEAT. Here are some ideas:
Standing burns 50% more calories than sitting. Stand while talking on the phone, using the computer, or reading the paper.
Pacing is even better. By pacing, you can burn 90 more calories an hour than if you were sitting still. Make it a habit to pace whenever you use the phone.
Buy a workstation or desk that you can stand at or, if you can, set up a desk over a treadmill. By walking 1 mile (1.6 km) an hour while you work, you'll burn an additional 100 calories per hour which, if you do this for two to three hours a day, you could lose 44 – 60 pounds in a year. It's recommended that you start slowly, though, walking 15 minutes every hour and then increasing gradually. Alternatively, you can use a mini-stepper under a tall desk, or while watching TV to achieve the same results.
2. Changing Your Eating Habits to Burn Calories
2-1. Eat foods that help your body burn calories.
People who eat fibrous fruit, vegetables, complex carbs, and low-fat meat burn even more calories after they eat. Make sure that your diet features plenty of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, lean meats, and low-fat dairy products. Eat a balanced diet and do not exceed your recommended daily caloric intake. Some good choices include:
Kale
Broccoli
Carrots
Apples
Pears
Citrus fruits
Oatmeal
Brown rice
Low-fat yogurt
Low-fat milk
Fish
Nuts and seeds (in moderation)
2-2. Space your calories out throughout the day.
Rather than consuming the traditional three meals a day, eat smaller meals throughout the day to help increase your metabolism and burn more calories. Aim for four to five evenly spaced small meals throughout the day. Try to eat every three hours to prevent excessive hunger and keep your metabolism revved up.
2-3. Eat breakfast every day.
Eating breakfast jump starts your metabolism, which helps you to burn more calories all day. Studies have found that people who eat breakfast also eat fewer calories throughout the day, while those who skip breakfast tend to eat more to make up for the calories they missed at breakfast. Choose high-fiber, low-calorie foods to reap the benefits of breakfast without going over on your calorie budget.
Oatmeal, whole wheat bread, fruit, yogurt, and low-fat milk are great breakfast choices.
2-4. Add spice to your meals.
Eating hot peppers can increase your metabolism by as much as 25% for up to three hours after eating. This calorie burning boost is caused by the capsaicin in peppers. Look for opportunities to add hot peppers to your recipes and reap the calorie burning benefits of capsaicin.
Add a chopped jalapeno pepper to chili.
Add a ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper to pasta sauce.
Use hot sauce on pizza, sandwiches, veggies, and other foods.
Keep in mind that many bottled "hot" sauces are high in sodium, which could prove problematic for those with hypertension (high blood pressure) or other health concerns. Use raw peppers whenever possible.
3. Incorporating Other Calorie Burning Habits
3-1. Reach for the caffeine, but pass on the sugar and cream.
Caffeine increases the number of calories you burn by a small amount, but it may also make you feel like moving more. Drinking a caffeinated beverage with a meal like black tea, green tea, or coffee may increase your metabolic rate by as much as 10%.
Green tea seems to have even more calorie burning properties and it may even block your absorption of carbohydrates.
Keep in mind that drinking coffee or tea plain will take some getting used to, but purchasing high-quality beans or tea leaves will certainly help.
3-2. Drink eight glasses of water per day.
Drinking water helps your body burn more calories. One study found that drinking eight cups of water per day helps your body burn about 100 extra calories per day. Consider getting yourself a reusable water bottle to help keep track of how much water you are drinking every day.
3-3. Sleep for seven to nine hours per night.
Your body needs adequate rest each night in order to function properly and burn calories. In addition, being sleep deprived makes it harder for you to do other things that help your body burn calories, like eating well and exercising. Make sure that you sleep for seven to nine hours every night to keep your body burning calories and functioning at its best.
Tips
The first steps towards weight loss must include both diet and exercise. The simple tips listed above will not make you lose weight unless your diet changes.[14]
X
Expert Source
Julian Arana, M.S.eD., NCSF-CPTCertified Personal Trainer
Expert Interview. 19 March 2020.
Keep track of the calories that you eat each day as well as the estimated amount of calories you burn by exercising.[15]
X
Research source
Warnings
As with any weight-loss program, talk to your doctor before you get started. Get professional advice when deciding to change your fitness regimen or diet. These tips are meant as just that--tips, they are not meant to provide a comprehensive weight-loss plan.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Moving More to Burn Calories\\n1-1. Incorporate at least 30 minutes of cardio into your daily routine.\\nThe best way to burn more calories is to incorporate more exercise into your daily routine. Cardiovascular exercises like walking, running, swimming, and biking help you to burn calories even after you have finished. You should aim for at least 30 minutes per day, but keep in mind that the longer you work out, the longer your body will keep burning calories after you have finished.\\n1-2. Add strength training to burn more calories while your body is at rest.\\nMuscle burns 2.5 times more calories than fat, so the more muscle that you have on your body, the more calories you will burn when your body is at rest. If you don’t already have a strength training regimen, add strength training into your daily routine.\\nFocus your strength training on large muscle groups for maximum burn, such as the thighs, arms, abdomen, back and chest.\\n1-3. Look for little ways to burn more calories.\\nThe more you move throughout the day, the more calories you will burn. Add small bursts of exercise throughout your day to increase your overall calorie burn. Park further away from the entrance at the mall, take the stairs instead of the elevator, or do some lunges or crunches during commercial breaks when watching TV.\\n1-4. Fidget.\\nStudies show that lean people fidget for about 150 minutes a day more than obese people do. That kind of low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can burn 350 calories a day, which translates into 10 – 30 pounds a year! It's called Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT) and it includes any movement that isn't intended as exercise. You can burn an extra 100 – 150 calories an hour by increasing NEAT. Here are some ideas:\\nStanding burns 50% more calories than sitting. Stand while talking on the phone, using the computer, or reading the paper.\\nPacing is even better. By pacing, you can burn 90 more calories an hour than if you were sitting still. Make it a habit to pace whenever you use the phone.\\nBuy a workstation or desk that you can stand at or, if you can, set up a desk over a treadmill. By walking 1 mile (1.6 km) an hour while you work, you'll burn an additional 100 calories per hour which, if you do this for two to three hours a day, you could lose 44 – 60 pounds in a year. It's recommended that you start slowly, though, walking 15 minutes every hour and then increasing gradually. Alternatively, you can use a mini-stepper under a tall desk, or while watching TV to achieve the same results.\\n2. Changing Your Eating Habits to Burn Calories\\n2-1. Eat foods that help your body burn calories.\\nPeople who eat fibrous fruit, vegetables, complex carbs, and low-fat meat burn even more calories after they eat. Make sure that your diet features plenty of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, lean meats, and low-fat dairy products. Eat a balanced diet and do not exceed your recommended daily caloric intake. Some good choices include:\\nKale\\nBroccoli\\nCarrots\\nApples\\nPears\\nCitrus fruits\\nOatmeal\\nBrown rice\\nLow-fat yogurt\\nLow-fat milk\\nFish\\nNuts and seeds (in moderation)\\n2-2. Space your calories out throughout the day.\\nRather than consuming the traditional three meals a day, eat smaller meals throughout the day to help increase your metabolism and burn more calories. Aim for four to five evenly spaced small meals throughout the day. Try to eat every three hours to prevent excessive hunger and keep your metabolism revved up.\\n2-3. Eat breakfast every day.\\nEating breakfast jump starts your metabolism, which helps you to burn more calories all day. Studies have found that people who eat breakfast also eat fewer calories throughout the day, while those who skip breakfast tend to eat more to make up for the calories they missed at breakfast. Choose high-fiber, low-calorie foods to reap the benefits of breakfast without going over on your calorie budget.\\nOatmeal, whole wheat bread, fruit, yogurt, and low-fat milk are great breakfast choices.\\n2-4. Add spice to your meals.\\nEating hot peppers can increase your metabolism by as much as 25% for up to three hours after eating. This calorie burning boost is caused by the capsaicin in peppers. Look for opportunities to add hot peppers to your recipes and reap the calorie burning benefits of capsaicin.\\nAdd a chopped jalapeno pepper to chili.\\nAdd a ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper to pasta sauce.\\nUse hot sauce on pizza, sandwiches, veggies, and other foods.\\nKeep in mind that many bottled \\\"hot\\\" sauces are high in sodium, which could prove problematic for those with hypertension (high blood pressure) or other health concerns. Use raw peppers whenever possible.\\n3. Incorporating Other Calorie Burning Habits\\n3-1. Reach for the caffeine, but pass on the sugar and cream.\\nCaffeine increases the number of calories you burn by a small amount, but it may also make you feel like moving more. Drinking a caffeinated beverage with a meal like black tea, green tea, or coffee may increase your metabolic rate by as much as 10%.\\n\\nGreen tea seems to have even more calorie burning properties and it may even block your absorption of carbohydrates.\\nKeep in mind that drinking coffee or tea plain will take some getting used to, but purchasing high-quality beans or tea leaves will certainly help.\\n3-2. Drink eight glasses of water per day.\\nDrinking water helps your body burn more calories. One study found that drinking eight cups of water per day helps your body burn about 100 extra calories per day. Consider getting yourself a reusable water bottle to help keep track of how much water you are drinking every day.\\n3-3. Sleep for seven to nine hours per night.\\nYour body needs adequate rest each night in order to function properly and burn calories. In addition, being sleep deprived makes it harder for you to do other things that help your body burn calories, like eating well and exercising. Make sure that you sleep for seven to nine hours every night to keep your body burning calories and functioning at its best.\\nTips\\nThe first steps towards weight loss must include both diet and exercise. The simple tips listed above will not make you lose weight unless your diet changes.[14]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJulian Arana, M.S.eD., NCSF-CPTCertified Personal Trainer\\nExpert Interview. 19 March 2020.\\nKeep track of the calories that you eat each day as well as the estimated amount of calories you burn by exercising.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nWarnings\\nAs with any weight-loss program, talk to your doctor before you get started. Get professional advice when deciding to change your fitness regimen or diet. These tips are meant as just that--tips, they are not meant to provide a comprehensive weight-loss plan.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You probably already know that in order to lose weight, you need to burn more calories than you consume. While it may seem difficult to burn calories, there are lots of little ways that you can help your body do the job. You can burn more calories by moving more throughout the day, eating smaller meals, incorporating spices into your meals, drinking more water, and getting plenty of rest every night.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Moving More to Burn Calories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Incorporate at least 30 minutes of cardio into your daily routine.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to burn more calories is to incorporate more exercise into your daily routine. Cardiovascular exercises like walking, running, swimming, and biking help you to burn calories even after you have finished. You should aim for at least 30 minutes per day, but keep in mind that the longer you work out, the longer your body will keep burning calories after you have finished.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add strength training to burn more calories while your body is at rest.\", \"描述\": \"Muscle burns 2.5 times more calories than fat, so the more muscle that you have on your body, the more calories you will burn when your body is at rest. If you don’t already have a strength training regimen, add strength training into your daily routine.\\nFocus your strength training on large muscle groups for maximum burn, such as the thighs, arms, abdomen, back and chest.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for little ways to burn more calories.\", \"描述\": \"The more you move throughout the day, the more calories you will burn. Add small bursts of exercise throughout your day to increase your overall calorie burn. Park further away from the entrance at the mall, take the stairs instead of the elevator, or do some lunges or crunches during commercial breaks when watching TV.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fidget.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that lean people fidget for about 150 minutes a day more than obese people do. That kind of low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can burn 350 calories a day, which translates into 10 – 30 pounds a year! It's called Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT) and it includes any movement that isn't intended as exercise. You can burn an extra 100 – 150 calories an hour by increasing NEAT. Here are some ideas:\\nStanding burns 50% more calories than sitting. Stand while talking on the phone, using the computer, or reading the paper.\\nPacing is even better. By pacing, you can burn 90 more calories an hour than if you were sitting still. Make it a habit to pace whenever you use the phone.\\nBuy a workstation or desk that you can stand at or, if you can, set up a desk over a treadmill. By walking 1 mile (1.6 km) an hour while you work, you'll burn an additional 100 calories per hour which, if you do this for two to three hours a day, you could lose 44 – 60 pounds in a year. It's recommended that you start slowly, though, walking 15 minutes every hour and then increasing gradually. Alternatively, you can use a mini-stepper under a tall desk, or while watching TV to achieve the same results.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Changing Your Eating Habits to Burn Calories\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Eat foods that help your body burn calories.\", \"描述\": \"People who eat fibrous fruit, vegetables, complex carbs, and low-fat meat burn even more calories after they eat. Make sure that your diet features plenty of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, lean meats, and low-fat dairy products. Eat a balanced diet and do not exceed your recommended daily caloric intake. Some good choices include:\\nKale\\nBroccoli\\nCarrots\\nApples\\nPears\\nCitrus fruits\\nOatmeal\\nBrown rice\\nLow-fat yogurt\\nLow-fat milk\\nFish\\nNuts and seeds (in moderation)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Space your calories out throughout the day.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than consuming the traditional three meals a day, eat smaller meals throughout the day to help increase your metabolism and burn more calories. Aim for four to five evenly spaced small meals throughout the day. Try to eat every three hours to prevent excessive hunger and keep your metabolism revved up.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat breakfast every day.\", \"描述\": \"Eating breakfast jump starts your metabolism, which helps you to burn more calories all day. Studies have found that people who eat breakfast also eat fewer calories throughout the day, while those who skip breakfast tend to eat more to make up for the calories they missed at breakfast. Choose high-fiber, low-calorie foods to reap the benefits of breakfast without going over on your calorie budget.\\nOatmeal, whole wheat bread, fruit, yogurt, and low-fat milk are great breakfast choices.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add spice to your meals.\", \"描述\": \"Eating hot peppers can increase your metabolism by as much as 25% for up to three hours after eating. This calorie burning boost is caused by the capsaicin in peppers. Look for opportunities to add hot peppers to your recipes and reap the calorie burning benefits of capsaicin.\\nAdd a chopped jalapeno pepper to chili.\\nAdd a ½ teaspoon of crushed red pepper to pasta sauce.\\nUse hot sauce on pizza, sandwiches, veggies, and other foods.\\nKeep in mind that many bottled \\\"hot\\\" sauces are high in sodium, which could prove problematic for those with hypertension (high blood pressure) or other health concerns. Use raw peppers whenever possible.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Other Calorie Burning Habits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reach for the caffeine, but pass on the sugar and cream.\", \"描述\": \"Caffeine increases the number of calories you burn by a small amount, but it may also make you feel like moving more. Drinking a caffeinated beverage with a meal like black tea, green tea, or coffee may increase your metabolic rate by as much as 10%.\\n\\nGreen tea seems to have even more calorie burning properties and it may even block your absorption of carbohydrates.\\nKeep in mind that drinking coffee or tea plain will take some getting used to, but purchasing high-quality beans or tea leaves will certainly help.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Drink eight glasses of water per day.\", \"描述\": \"Drinking water helps your body burn more calories. One study found that drinking eight cups of water per day helps your body burn about 100 extra calories per day. Consider getting yourself a reusable water bottle to help keep track of how much water you are drinking every day.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Sleep for seven to nine hours per night.\", \"描述\": \"Your body needs adequate rest each night in order to function properly and burn calories. In addition, being sleep deprived makes it harder for you to do other things that help your body burn calories, like eating well and exercising. Make sure that you sleep for seven to nine hours every night to keep your body burning calories and functioning at its best.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The first steps towards weight loss must include both diet and exercise. The simple tips listed above will not make you lose weight unless your diet changes.[14]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nJulian Arana, M.S.eD., NCSF-CPTCertified Personal Trainer\\nExpert Interview. 19 March 2020.\\n\", \"Keep track of the calories that you eat each day as well as the estimated amount of calories you burn by exercising.[15]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"As with any weight-loss program, talk to your doctor before you get started. Get professional advice when deciding to change your fitness regimen or diet. These tips are meant as just that--tips, they are not meant to provide a comprehensive weight-loss plan.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,708 |
How to Burn Calories Fast
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1. Workout Strategies
1-1. Try high-intensity interval training.
If you thought cardio was a great way to burn calories, well, you'd be right. But what you'd be missing out on is that there are even better ways -- and that's interval training. The benefits of cardio (which are innumerable to start with) are amplified with this tactic.
High-intensity interval training involves repeatedly exercising at a high intensity for 30 seconds to several minutes, separated by 1-5 minutes of recovery (either no or low-intensity exercise). Consider the benefits:
You'll burn more calories. The more vigorously you exercise, the more calories you'll burn — even if you increase intensity for just a few minutes at a time.
You'll improve your aerobic capacity. As your cardiovascular fitness improves, you'll be able to exercise longer or with more intensity. Imagine finishing your 60-minute walk in 45 minutes — or the additional calories you'll burn by keeping up the pace for the full 60 minutes.
You'll keep boredom at bay. Turning up your intensity in short intervals can add variety to your exercise routine.
You don't need special equipment. You can simply modify your current routine.
1-2. Pump the iron.
Lifting weights isn't the fastest way to burn calories, no. But you do need both cardio and weights to reap the ultimate benefits. Your metabolism relies on it -- more muscle, higher metabolism. Higher metabolism equals more calories burned.
Many women avoid weight training because they're afraid of bulking up. But a little heavy lifting is actually your number-one key to calorie burn: The more lean muscle you have on your body, the faster your metabolism, the more calories you'll burn, and the slimmer and trimmer you'll look. That's because even when your muscles are at rest, they still require three times more energy than fat for tissue maintenance and rebuilding.
1-3. Train to burn fat.
We've established that you need cardio and weight training to really amp up your calorie expenditure. But what's more, if you do it right, you'll get an afterburn effect; you can burn up to post-workout. Seriously.
A simple definition of how to do this would be to lift something heavy, sprint and repeat several times over. It works your heart and lungs but also helps tone your muscles at the same time. Mix up a run with burpees, squats, deadlifts, and sprints to burn calories even while you have your feet up on the couch.
Gyms often offer classes that involve both these domains. Ask yours about the cardio/weight classes they have available. You'll get the workout and find buddies to gripe with afterward -- and you thought only Charlie Sheen was winning.
1-4. Experiment with circuit training.
Burning calories is clearly about working as many muscle groups as you can at one time and circuit training does just that. But did you know that there are also psychological benefits too? It ups your mood and releases stress, in addition to increasing your cardiovascular fitness.
The reason circuit training has such great effects is because it switches between muscle groups so quickly. Therefore, you're not wasting any time resting in-between stations. Your heart rate gets up and stays up, which definitely doesn't happen with weightlifting. And if you add a bit of aerobics into your circuit training session, even better.
1-5. Mix it up.
Often people fall back into thinking that cardio is code for running. While running is a very efficient way to burn calories, there are others. Swimming, rowing, boxing, and dancing are all great workouts, too.
A good, solid rowing workout can easily have you burning 800 to 1,000 calories in an hour's worth of work.
Just 45 minutes in the pool will easily burn 800 excess calories just itching to be stored as fat.
Boxing rings in at about 700 calories per hour, depending on your weight.
Something simple like ballet even burns about 450 calories an hour.
1-6. Take up a new sport.
If you can jog around your block blindfolded and with both arms tied behind your back, it's high time you find something else to do. Not only will this keep your mind fresh, but your body needs the challenge, too. It adapts to activities and burns fewer calories when they become old hat. To give your metabolism the ol' fake-out, go for cross-training.
Don't forget about the after-burn! When your body does something it's not used to, it takes time to recover. In that recovery period, your metabolism is still up. Whatever you do, discover new muscles and keep 'em guessing.
2. Diet Adjustments
2-1. Drink lots of water.
And you thought miracles didn't happen: A recent study has shown that if you drink 17 ounces of cold water, within 10 minutes your metabolism shoots up 30-40% for the next half hour or so. That means you could burn an extra 17,400 calories a year just by consuming an extra 1.5 liters (0.4 US gal) a day or so. That's five pounds!
In addition to upping your metabolism, water fills you up, keeping you from eating more. Before you go about snacking, grab a glass. And, of course, always have a bottle with you at the gym.
2-2. Do more (low-fat) dairy.
A study published in the Journal on Obesity Research found that women who ate only low-fat dairy products -- like nonfat yogurt, for example -- at least three times a day lost 70% more fat than their female counterparts who just ate low amounts of dairy. In short, dairy doers have less fat on their bodies, not the other way around.
In fact, calcium tells your body to amp up the fat burning. Unfortunately, calcium-fortified goods don't fall under the same umbrella -- to feel the calcium power, you have to go for the dairy products in the raw. Try to get at least 1,200 mg a day.
2-3. Get fishy.
With your diet, at least. Turns out those who eat fish on the regular have lower leptin levels -- this blessing keeps up the metabolism, preventing obesity. Try to get a serving of fish every other day; salmon, tuna, and mackerel, your fattier fish, are best.
Replace foods that expand your waistline with healthy foods, like fish. Fish is a food that is full of satisfying flavor, low in calories, and stocked with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 acids are essential fats that your body can't make. They help keep the blood from clotting too easily and add to a better cholesterol ratio.
2-4. Fill up on fiber.
Low-carb, high-fiber foods take more time to digest than other foods, leaving you feeling fuller longer and less likely to snack needlessly. Spinach, broccoli, asparagus, and cauliflower are all healthy, high-fiber foods.
Beyond the fiber content, crunching and chewing a whole piece of fruit stimulates your senses and takes longer to eat. So psychologically, it may also be more satisfying than beverages or soft foods. Chewing also promotes saliva and the production of stomach juices that help fill the stomach.
2-5. Pump up the protein.
Not in an extreme, Atkins sort of way, but having a little protein at every meal fires up your metabolism. Your digestive system uses more energy to break it down, so you burn more calories. However, keep protein levels to between 20 and 35 percent of your diet; eating too much of it can cause kidney strain and may cause your body to store too much fat.
Not all protein is created equal. Be sure to look for protein sources that are nutrient-rich and lower in fat and calories, such as lean meats, beans, soy, and low-fat dairy.
3. Lifestyle Changes
3-1. Destress.
Stress may contribute to abdominal fat, according to several studies, including a recent one at the University of California, San Francisco. When you're stressed, hormones like cortisol stimulate your appetite, slow your metabolism down and encourage fat storage inside your abdomen.
So what can you do about this? Find an activity that reduces stress for you, whether it's listening to soothing music or taking yoga, and do it daily. Not only will you relax, but you'll lessen your likelihood to stress eat.
3-2. Don't blow off breakfast.
Studies show that eating breakfast plays a part in successful weight loss — almost 80 percent of people who successfully keep weight off chow down on this meal, according to a study published in Obesity Research.
Your metabolism slows as you sleep, and the process of digesting food revs it up again. Aim for a 300- to 400-calorie breakfast, such as egg whites, high-fiber cereal (another metabolism booster) with skim milk or oatmeal and fruit.
3-3. Eat lightly and often.
For most people, the body uses up more energy digesting smaller meals every few hours than by eating the same number of calories in two or three sittings. So snack away during the day.
3-4. Avoid alcohol.
It may be hard to fathom, but alcohol actually depresses your central nervous system, ultimately slowing your metabolism. Now you have another reason to chug the H2O. A study in the UK found that if you consume a high-calorie meal, less of that will be burned off (and more will be stored) if you consumed it alongside alcohol.
Alright, that's not entirely true. If you can keep your alcohol intake to one glass of red wine a day, you'll actually be less likely to become obese. That's one 4-oz glass of wine -- not one jug.
3-5. Fidget.
People who are constantly in motion — crossing and uncrossing their legs, stretching and pacing — burn more calories.
Overweight people have a tendency to sit, while lean ones have trouble holding still and spend two hours more a day on their feet, pacing around and fidgeting, research says. The difference translates into about 350 calories a day, enough to produce a weight loss of 30 to 40 pounds in one year without trips to the gym.
3-6. Get enough shut-eye.
Yeah, Gosling may be on Letterman, but it's way more important for your waistline to head to bed. A study at the University of Chicago Medical Center found that people who got only four hours of sleep had much more difficulty processing carbs. The culprit? Increased levels of insulin and the stress hormone cortisol.
When you're exhausted, your body lacks the energy to do its normal day-to-day functions, which includes burning calories efficiently. So the best way to make sure your metabolism runs smoothly is to get six to eight hours of Zs each night.
3-7. Become active in any way that you can.
Don't think of burning calories as something reserved for the gym. You can burn those bad boys anytime, anywhere. The following activities burn 150 calories for a 150-lb person:
Golf and carry your own clubs for 24 minutes
Shovel snow by hand for 22 minutes
Spade your garden for 26 minutes
Push a power lawnmower for 30 minutes
Painting the house for 27 minutes
Play ping pong or chase your kids around the playground for 33 minutes
Tips
Eat smaller portions of food. Instead of having 3 large meals a day, cut them in half and have 6 small meals a day. This will allow your body to burn calories faster.
A very easy way to burn calories is to drink a glass of water with a slice of lemon first thing in the morning. This is also a good cleanser for organisms.
Warnings
Don't go too far. If you wind up on the floor after 2 hours on the elliptical, you'll just be unable to exercise for the rest of the week. Be cautious.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Workout Strategies\\n1-1. Try high-intensity interval training.\\nIf you thought cardio was a great way to burn calories, well, you'd be right. But what you'd be missing out on is that there are even better ways -- and that's interval training. The benefits of cardio (which are innumerable to start with) are amplified with this tactic.\\nHigh-intensity interval training involves repeatedly exercising at a high intensity for 30 seconds to several minutes, separated by 1-5 minutes of recovery (either no or low-intensity exercise). Consider the benefits:\\nYou'll burn more calories. The more vigorously you exercise, the more calories you'll burn — even if you increase intensity for just a few minutes at a time.\\nYou'll improve your aerobic capacity. As your cardiovascular fitness improves, you'll be able to exercise longer or with more intensity. Imagine finishing your 60-minute walk in 45 minutes — or the additional calories you'll burn by keeping up the pace for the full 60 minutes.\\nYou'll keep boredom at bay. Turning up your intensity in short intervals can add variety to your exercise routine.\\nYou don't need special equipment. You can simply modify your current routine.\\n1-2. Pump the iron.\\nLifting weights isn't the fastest way to burn calories, no. But you do need both cardio and weights to reap the ultimate benefits. Your metabolism relies on it -- more muscle, higher metabolism. Higher metabolism equals more calories burned.\\nMany women avoid weight training because they're afraid of bulking up. But a little heavy lifting is actually your number-one key to calorie burn: The more lean muscle you have on your body, the faster your metabolism, the more calories you'll burn, and the slimmer and trimmer you'll look. That's because even when your muscles are at rest, they still require three times more energy than fat for tissue maintenance and rebuilding.\\n1-3. Train to burn fat.\\nWe've established that you need cardio and weight training to really amp up your calorie expenditure. But what's more, if you do it right, you'll get an afterburn effect; you can burn up to post-workout. Seriously.\\nA simple definition of how to do this would be to lift something heavy, sprint and repeat several times over. It works your heart and lungs but also helps tone your muscles at the same time. Mix up a run with burpees, squats, deadlifts, and sprints to burn calories even while you have your feet up on the couch.\\nGyms often offer classes that involve both these domains. Ask yours about the cardio/weight classes they have available. You'll get the workout and find buddies to gripe with afterward -- and you thought only Charlie Sheen was winning.\\n1-4. Experiment with circuit training.\\nBurning calories is clearly about working as many muscle groups as you can at one time and circuit training does just that. But did you know that there are also psychological benefits too? It ups your mood and releases stress, in addition to increasing your cardiovascular fitness.\\nThe reason circuit training has such great effects is because it switches between muscle groups so quickly. Therefore, you're not wasting any time resting in-between stations. Your heart rate gets up and stays up, which definitely doesn't happen with weightlifting. And if you add a bit of aerobics into your circuit training session, even better.\\n1-5. Mix it up.\\nOften people fall back into thinking that cardio is code for running. While running is a very efficient way to burn calories, there are others. Swimming, rowing, boxing, and dancing are all great workouts, too.\\nA good, solid rowing workout can easily have you burning 800 to 1,000 calories in an hour's worth of work.\\nJust 45 minutes in the pool will easily burn 800 excess calories just itching to be stored as fat.\\nBoxing rings in at about 700 calories per hour, depending on your weight.\\nSomething simple like ballet even burns about 450 calories an hour.\\n1-6. Take up a new sport.\\nIf you can jog around your block blindfolded and with both arms tied behind your back, it's high time you find something else to do. Not only will this keep your mind fresh, but your body needs the challenge, too. It adapts to activities and burns fewer calories when they become old hat. To give your metabolism the ol' fake-out, go for cross-training.\\nDon't forget about the after-burn! When your body does something it's not used to, it takes time to recover. In that recovery period, your metabolism is still up. Whatever you do, discover new muscles and keep 'em guessing.\\n2. Diet Adjustments\\n2-1. Drink lots of water.\\nAnd you thought miracles didn't happen: A recent study has shown that if you drink 17 ounces of cold water, within 10 minutes your metabolism shoots up 30-40% for the next half hour or so. That means you could burn an extra 17,400 calories a year just by consuming an extra 1.5 liters (0.4 US gal) a day or so. That's five pounds!\\nIn addition to upping your metabolism, water fills you up, keeping you from eating more. Before you go about snacking, grab a glass. And, of course, always have a bottle with you at the gym.\\n2-2. Do more (low-fat) dairy.\\nA study published in the Journal on Obesity Research found that women who ate only low-fat dairy products -- like nonfat yogurt, for example -- at least three times a day lost 70% more fat than their female counterparts who just ate low amounts of dairy. In short, dairy doers have less fat on their bodies, not the other way around.\\nIn fact, calcium tells your body to amp up the fat burning. Unfortunately, calcium-fortified goods don't fall under the same umbrella -- to feel the calcium power, you have to go for the dairy products in the raw. Try to get at least 1,200 mg a day.\\n2-3. Get fishy.\\nWith your diet, at least. Turns out those who eat fish on the regular have lower leptin levels -- this blessing keeps up the metabolism, preventing obesity. Try to get a serving of fish every other day; salmon, tuna, and mackerel, your fattier fish, are best.\\nReplace foods that expand your waistline with healthy foods, like fish. Fish is a food that is full of satisfying flavor, low in calories, and stocked with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 acids are essential fats that your body can't make. They help keep the blood from clotting too easily and add to a better cholesterol ratio.\\n2-4. Fill up on fiber.\\nLow-carb, high-fiber foods take more time to digest than other foods, leaving you feeling fuller longer and less likely to snack needlessly. Spinach, broccoli, asparagus, and cauliflower are all healthy, high-fiber foods.\\nBeyond the fiber content, crunching and chewing a whole piece of fruit stimulates your senses and takes longer to eat. So psychologically, it may also be more satisfying than beverages or soft foods. Chewing also promotes saliva and the production of stomach juices that help fill the stomach.\\n2-5. Pump up the protein.\\nNot in an extreme, Atkins sort of way, but having a little protein at every meal fires up your metabolism. Your digestive system uses more energy to break it down, so you burn more calories. However, keep protein levels to between 20 and 35 percent of your diet; eating too much of it can cause kidney strain and may cause your body to store too much fat.\\nNot all protein is created equal. Be sure to look for protein sources that are nutrient-rich and lower in fat and calories, such as lean meats, beans, soy, and low-fat dairy.\\n3. Lifestyle Changes\\n3-1. Destress.\\nStress may contribute to abdominal fat, according to several studies, including a recent one at the University of California, San Francisco. When you're stressed, hormones like cortisol stimulate your appetite, slow your metabolism down and encourage fat storage inside your abdomen.\\nSo what can you do about this? Find an activity that reduces stress for you, whether it's listening to soothing music or taking yoga, and do it daily. Not only will you relax, but you'll lessen your likelihood to stress eat.\\n3-2. Don't blow off breakfast.\\nStudies show that eating breakfast plays a part in successful weight loss — almost 80 percent of people who successfully keep weight off chow down on this meal, according to a study published in Obesity Research.\\nYour metabolism slows as you sleep, and the process of digesting food revs it up again. Aim for a 300- to 400-calorie breakfast, such as egg whites, high-fiber cereal (another metabolism booster) with skim milk or oatmeal and fruit.\\n3-3. Eat lightly and often.\\nFor most people, the body uses up more energy digesting smaller meals every few hours than by eating the same number of calories in two or three sittings. So snack away during the day.\\n3-4. Avoid alcohol.\\nIt may be hard to fathom, but alcohol actually depresses your central nervous system, ultimately slowing your metabolism. Now you have another reason to chug the H2O. A study in the UK found that if you consume a high-calorie meal, less of that will be burned off (and more will be stored) if you consumed it alongside alcohol.\\nAlright, that's not entirely true. If you can keep your alcohol intake to one glass of red wine a day, you'll actually be less likely to become obese. That's one 4-oz glass of wine -- not one jug.\\n3-5. Fidget.\\nPeople who are constantly in motion — crossing and uncrossing their legs, stretching and pacing — burn more calories. \\nOverweight people have a tendency to sit, while lean ones have trouble holding still and spend two hours more a day on their feet, pacing around and fidgeting, research says. The difference translates into about 350 calories a day, enough to produce a weight loss of 30 to 40 pounds in one year without trips to the gym.\\n3-6. Get enough shut-eye.\\nYeah, Gosling may be on Letterman, but it's way more important for your waistline to head to bed. A study at the University of Chicago Medical Center found that people who got only four hours of sleep had much more difficulty processing carbs. The culprit? Increased levels of insulin and the stress hormone cortisol.\\nWhen you're exhausted, your body lacks the energy to do its normal day-to-day functions, which includes burning calories efficiently. So the best way to make sure your metabolism runs smoothly is to get six to eight hours of Zs each night.\\n3-7. Become active in any way that you can.\\nDon't think of burning calories as something reserved for the gym. You can burn those bad boys anytime, anywhere. The following activities burn 150 calories for a 150-lb person:\\nGolf and carry your own clubs for 24 minutes\\nShovel snow by hand for 22 minutes\\nSpade your garden for 26 minutes\\nPush a power lawnmower for 30 minutes\\nPainting the house for 27 minutes\\nPlay ping pong or chase your kids around the playground for 33 minutes\\nTips\\nEat smaller portions of food. Instead of having 3 large meals a day, cut them in half and have 6 small meals a day. This will allow your body to burn calories faster.\\nA very easy way to burn calories is to drink a glass of water with a slice of lemon first thing in the morning. This is also a good cleanser for organisms.\\nWarnings\\nDon't go too far. If you wind up on the floor after 2 hours on the elliptical, you'll just be unable to exercise for the rest of the week. Be cautious.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you get down to the nitty-gritty, losing weight is about losing calories. Burning those suckers as quickly as possible is ideal for our schedules, our waistlines, and our health. To maximize the burn, read on.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Workout Strategies\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try high-intensity interval training.\", \"描述\": \"If you thought cardio was a great way to burn calories, well, you'd be right. But what you'd be missing out on is that there are even better ways -- and that's interval training. The benefits of cardio (which are innumerable to start with) are amplified with this tactic.\\nHigh-intensity interval training involves repeatedly exercising at a high intensity for 30 seconds to several minutes, separated by 1-5 minutes of recovery (either no or low-intensity exercise). Consider the benefits:\\nYou'll burn more calories. The more vigorously you exercise, the more calories you'll burn — even if you increase intensity for just a few minutes at a time.\\nYou'll improve your aerobic capacity. As your cardiovascular fitness improves, you'll be able to exercise longer or with more intensity. Imagine finishing your 60-minute walk in 45 minutes — or the additional calories you'll burn by keeping up the pace for the full 60 minutes.\\nYou'll keep boredom at bay. Turning up your intensity in short intervals can add variety to your exercise routine.\\nYou don't need special equipment. You can simply modify your current routine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pump the iron.\", \"描述\": \"Lifting weights isn't the fastest way to burn calories, no. But you do need both cardio and weights to reap the ultimate benefits. Your metabolism relies on it -- more muscle, higher metabolism. Higher metabolism equals more calories burned.\\nMany women avoid weight training because they're afraid of bulking up. But a little heavy lifting is actually your number-one key to calorie burn: The more lean muscle you have on your body, the faster your metabolism, the more calories you'll burn, and the slimmer and trimmer you'll look. That's because even when your muscles are at rest, they still require three times more energy than fat for tissue maintenance and rebuilding.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Train to burn fat.\", \"描述\": \"We've established that you need cardio and weight training to really amp up your calorie expenditure. But what's more, if you do it right, you'll get an afterburn effect; you can burn up to post-workout. Seriously.\\nA simple definition of how to do this would be to lift something heavy, sprint and repeat several times over. It works your heart and lungs but also helps tone your muscles at the same time. Mix up a run with burpees, squats, deadlifts, and sprints to burn calories even while you have your feet up on the couch.\\nGyms often offer classes that involve both these domains. Ask yours about the cardio/weight classes they have available. You'll get the workout and find buddies to gripe with afterward -- and you thought only Charlie Sheen was winning.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Experiment with circuit training.\", \"描述\": \"Burning calories is clearly about working as many muscle groups as you can at one time and circuit training does just that. But did you know that there are also psychological benefits too? It ups your mood and releases stress, in addition to increasing your cardiovascular fitness.\\nThe reason circuit training has such great effects is because it switches between muscle groups so quickly. Therefore, you're not wasting any time resting in-between stations. Your heart rate gets up and stays up, which definitely doesn't happen with weightlifting. And if you add a bit of aerobics into your circuit training session, even better.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mix it up.\", \"描述\": \"Often people fall back into thinking that cardio is code for running. While running is a very efficient way to burn calories, there are others. Swimming, rowing, boxing, and dancing are all great workouts, too.\\nA good, solid rowing workout can easily have you burning 800 to 1,000 calories in an hour's worth of work.\\nJust 45 minutes in the pool will easily burn 800 excess calories just itching to be stored as fat.\\nBoxing rings in at about 700 calories per hour, depending on your weight.\\nSomething simple like ballet even burns about 450 calories an hour.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Take up a new sport.\", \"描述\": \"If you can jog around your block blindfolded and with both arms tied behind your back, it's high time you find something else to do. Not only will this keep your mind fresh, but your body needs the challenge, too. It adapts to activities and burns fewer calories when they become old hat. To give your metabolism the ol' fake-out, go for cross-training.\\nDon't forget about the after-burn! When your body does something it's not used to, it takes time to recover. In that recovery period, your metabolism is still up. Whatever you do, discover new muscles and keep 'em guessing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Diet Adjustments\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drink lots of water.\", \"描述\": \"And you thought miracles didn't happen: A recent study has shown that if you drink 17 ounces of cold water, within 10 minutes your metabolism shoots up 30-40% for the next half hour or so. That means you could burn an extra 17,400 calories a year just by consuming an extra 1.5 liters (0.4 US gal) a day or so. That's five pounds!\\nIn addition to upping your metabolism, water fills you up, keeping you from eating more. Before you go about snacking, grab a glass. And, of course, always have a bottle with you at the gym.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Do more (low-fat) dairy.\", \"描述\": \"A study published in the Journal on Obesity Research found that women who ate only low-fat dairy products -- like nonfat yogurt, for example -- at least three times a day lost 70% more fat than their female counterparts who just ate low amounts of dairy. In short, dairy doers have less fat on their bodies, not the other way around.\\nIn fact, calcium tells your body to amp up the fat burning. Unfortunately, calcium-fortified goods don't fall under the same umbrella -- to feel the calcium power, you have to go for the dairy products in the raw. Try to get at least 1,200 mg a day.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Get fishy.\", \"描述\": \"With your diet, at least. Turns out those who eat fish on the regular have lower leptin levels -- this blessing keeps up the metabolism, preventing obesity. Try to get a serving of fish every other day; salmon, tuna, and mackerel, your fattier fish, are best.\\nReplace foods that expand your waistline with healthy foods, like fish. Fish is a food that is full of satisfying flavor, low in calories, and stocked with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 acids are essential fats that your body can't make. They help keep the blood from clotting too easily and add to a better cholesterol ratio.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill up on fiber.\", \"描述\": \"Low-carb, high-fiber foods take more time to digest than other foods, leaving you feeling fuller longer and less likely to snack needlessly. Spinach, broccoli, asparagus, and cauliflower are all healthy, high-fiber foods.\\nBeyond the fiber content, crunching and chewing a whole piece of fruit stimulates your senses and takes longer to eat. So psychologically, it may also be more satisfying than beverages or soft foods. Chewing also promotes saliva and the production of stomach juices that help fill the stomach.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pump up the protein.\", \"描述\": \"Not in an extreme, Atkins sort of way, but having a little protein at every meal fires up your metabolism. Your digestive system uses more energy to break it down, so you burn more calories. However, keep protein levels to between 20 and 35 percent of your diet; eating too much of it can cause kidney strain and may cause your body to store too much fat.\\nNot all protein is created equal. Be sure to look for protein sources that are nutrient-rich and lower in fat and calories, such as lean meats, beans, soy, and low-fat dairy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lifestyle Changes\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Destress.\", \"描述\": \"Stress may contribute to abdominal fat, according to several studies, including a recent one at the University of California, San Francisco. When you're stressed, hormones like cortisol stimulate your appetite, slow your metabolism down and encourage fat storage inside your abdomen.\\nSo what can you do about this? Find an activity that reduces stress for you, whether it's listening to soothing music or taking yoga, and do it daily. Not only will you relax, but you'll lessen your likelihood to stress eat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Don't blow off breakfast.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that eating breakfast plays a part in successful weight loss — almost 80 percent of people who successfully keep weight off chow down on this meal, according to a study published in Obesity Research.\\nYour metabolism slows as you sleep, and the process of digesting food revs it up again. Aim for a 300- to 400-calorie breakfast, such as egg whites, high-fiber cereal (another metabolism booster) with skim milk or oatmeal and fruit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat lightly and often.\", \"描述\": \"For most people, the body uses up more energy digesting smaller meals every few hours than by eating the same number of calories in two or three sittings. So snack away during the day.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid alcohol.\", \"描述\": \"It may be hard to fathom, but alcohol actually depresses your central nervous system, ultimately slowing your metabolism. Now you have another reason to chug the H2O. A study in the UK found that if you consume a high-calorie meal, less of that will be burned off (and more will be stored) if you consumed it alongside alcohol.\\nAlright, that's not entirely true. If you can keep your alcohol intake to one glass of red wine a day, you'll actually be less likely to become obese. That's one 4-oz glass of wine -- not one jug.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fidget.\", \"描述\": \"People who are constantly in motion — crossing and uncrossing their legs, stretching and pacing — burn more calories. \\nOverweight people have a tendency to sit, while lean ones have trouble holding still and spend two hours more a day on their feet, pacing around and fidgeting, research says. The difference translates into about 350 calories a day, enough to produce a weight loss of 30 to 40 pounds in one year without trips to the gym.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get enough shut-eye.\", \"描述\": \"Yeah, Gosling may be on Letterman, but it's way more important for your waistline to head to bed. A study at the University of Chicago Medical Center found that people who got only four hours of sleep had much more difficulty processing carbs. The culprit? Increased levels of insulin and the stress hormone cortisol.\\nWhen you're exhausted, your body lacks the energy to do its normal day-to-day functions, which includes burning calories efficiently. So the best way to make sure your metabolism runs smoothly is to get six to eight hours of Zs each night.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Become active in any way that you can.\", \"描述\": \"Don't think of burning calories as something reserved for the gym. You can burn those bad boys anytime, anywhere. The following activities burn 150 calories for a 150-lb person:\\nGolf and carry your own clubs for 24 minutes\\nShovel snow by hand for 22 minutes\\nSpade your garden for 26 minutes\\nPush a power lawnmower for 30 minutes\\nPainting the house for 27 minutes\\nPlay ping pong or chase your kids around the playground for 33 minutes\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Eat smaller portions of food. Instead of having 3 large meals a day, cut them in half and have 6 small meals a day. This will allow your body to burn calories faster.\\n\", \"A very easy way to burn calories is to drink a glass of water with a slice of lemon first thing in the morning. This is also a good cleanser for organisms.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't go too far. If you wind up on the floor after 2 hours on the elliptical, you'll just be unable to exercise for the rest of the week. Be cautious.\\n\"]}]}}",
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wikihow
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7,709 |
How to Burn Calories at Work
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1. Burning Calories Away from Your Desk
1-1. Walk while you discuss business.
Rather than sitting in a stuffy office or conference room to tackle important business conversations, when you get the chance, go for a walk outside. Unless there's inclement weather, this practice is so much more stimulating and satisfying than a typical yawn-inducing sit-down meeting that it's a wonder it's not more common. Walking while you talk gives you a great opportunity to burn calories without having to abandon your work. You can walk while you touch base, meet about relevant work issues, or discuss plans for the future. Walking may even re-energize you, giving you more energy to tackle these tasks than you normally would have!
1-2. Make your commute an opportunity to get exercise.
One of the absolute best ways to add exercise to your daily work routine and start burning calories is to treat your commute as an exciting chance to exercise each day, rather than something you have to endure to get to work. Use any method you can to avoid sitting in your car during morning traffic. Walk or bike to work if you live close enough to do so. If you don't, look for public transit nodes that are within biking or walking distance, then use these to complete your journey to work.
Over time, avoiding car use can actually save you a great deal of money. Biking and walking is nearly expense-free - the only things you'll need to spend money on are your shoes and/or any replacement bike parts. Public transit tickets can be a greater expense, but, compared to weekly or bi-weekly trips to the gas station (to say nothing of car maintenance costs), are often the cheaper bet.
1-3. Start a mini workout club at the office.
Any workout is easier when you have people by your side to support and encourage you, so, if you can, consider starting a workout group at your office with some of your coworkers. This practice is actually already fairly common within smaller companies or start-ups. As part of your routine, you might, for instance, designate 15 minutes before lunch every day for mini-workouts focusing on rotating muscle groups - Monday, Wednesday, and Friday you could focus on arms and have "push-up club", whereas Tuesday and Thursday you could focus on abs and have "abs club". Alternatively, you might agree to play a round of pick-up basketball after work every day. The choices are endless, limited only by the tastes of you and your coworkers.
If your boss allows you to, you may want to try advertising for your workout club in break areas, during lunches, etc.
1-4. Go out during your lunch break.
Depending on the culture of your office, your lunch break may be up to an hour long. If you have time, use your break as an opportunity for a quick aerobic exercise session. Try briskly walking, jogging, or biking to your destination if you can. If you're getting take-out food, you might even try going for a walk as you eat.
1-5. Walk quickly at work.
Make the most of every opportunity you have to get up and move! When you have to walk around the office, try to move quickly. You don't have to sprint around the office and risk running into someone to reap the benefits of picking up your pace - merely walking at a brisker pace than normal can give you a calorie-burning boost. You may be surprised what a workout it is to constantly walk quickly, especially if you have a job that frequently requires you to stay on your feet all day.
1-6. Plan business travel to fit your fitness needs.
Though business trips can have you moving about the country (or even the world), they can sometimes restrict your ability to actually move. Countless hours in planes, buses, limos, trains, and the like can take their toll on your calorie-burning efforts. Worse, many important business meetings can take place over rich, decadent, calorie-dense meals. So, if you get the chance, plan ahead. Bring a form of exercise (like a hand gripper or exercise bands) with you so that you can do it in the hotel or in your seat as you travel. Better still, try to book a hotel that has a workout room or gym available to guests. When you travel, you'll be away from your creature comforts, but this is no excuse to neglect your body.
1-7. Weight train to boost your metabolism so you burn more calories at work.
Muscle tissue burns more calories than fat tissue does (73 more calories per kilogram per day, to be precise), so the more muscle you build, the higher your resting metabolic rate (RMR) will be. Think of every muscle cell that you gain like a little factory that constantly burns calories for you, even while you sleep, and revs up when you exercise. Building muscle through weightlifting, strength-training exercises, and the like outside of work is a great way to guarantee that you burn as many calories as you can at work, even on the rare occasions when you have to remain motionless.
1-8. Reach for the caffeine, pass on the sugar and cream.
There is some evidence that supports the theory that caffeine can help you lose weight, though the link is by no means concrete. Caffeine may be able to increase the number of calories you burn by stimulating the process of thermogenesis - a way in which your body generates heat and energy. Caffeine may also suppress your appetite, leading you to eat less food than you normally would. However, the most useful aspect of caffeine may be simply that it can give you the energy to focus - for instance, on walking just a little further at your treadmill or on squeezing your hand gripper just one more time.
In any case, don't rely too heavily on caffeine as an exercise or weight loss aid. It's no substitute for actual exercise and, if you consume too much, any calorie-burning effects will be overpowered by the fact that you'll be a jittery, nervous wreck.
2. Burning Calories at Your Desk
2-1. Create (or buy) a standing desk.
The best way to burn calories while you work at a desk is to eliminate the factors that make desk work such a sedentary activity, namely, motionless sitting. Rather than sitting down all day, try migrating to a nearby table, counter, or filing cabinet, and, if it is tall enough, set up your laptop there and work while standing. If it's too short, try stacking a few sturdy boxes on top of each other to support your laptop at a higher level. Standing burns more calories than sitting - the precise difference varies from person to person, but is generally about 50 calories per hour.
In itself, 50 calories isn't much, but over time even this tiny extra effort can produce results. Let's assume you stand for 4 hours each day at the office - that's 200 calories per day. Over a 5 day work week, that's 1,000 calories. This is high enough that, all other factors being equal, you might even start to lose weight, albeit at a gradual rate, as it takes about 3,500 calories gained or lost for your body to lose or gain 1 pound of fat.
2-2. Work at a treadmill.
Even better for your physical health than a standing desk is a treadmill desk or walking desk. Working at a treadmill allows you to experience mild exercise as you work - in addition to burning calories, you may find that walking as you work even boosts your energy and motivation levels. Walking desks are commercially available, though they can be somewhat pricey. If you have access to a normal treadmill, a more affordable option is to buy (or make, or improvise) a special stand that allows you to prop a laptop on the sloped surface of most treadmills.
You don't have to jog or even break a sweat to get the benefits of working at a treadmill, but the faster you go, the more calories you'll burn.
2-3. Invest in a balance ball chair.
Believe it or not, it's possible to start burning calories and toning your midsection simply by changing the type of chair you use. If your office won't provide one for you, consider buying your own balance ball chair. As you sit in this special type of chair, your body has to subtly flex its core (torso) muscles to keep you upright and balanced. Over time, you will feel a gentle "burn" in your midsection, signifying that you're using your muscles (and burning calories).
As an added feature, balance ball chairs allow you to gently bounce up and down while sitting, expending a little extra energy and burning more calories in the process.
2-4. Use a hand gripper, small dumbbell, or exercise band.
If you're unable to get any cardio or core exercise at your desk, you still have the option of burning calories with your upper body. A variety of options exist for engaging your upper body while you work - some of the most common are squeezable hand grip devices, small dumbbells, exercise bands, and the like. These options are cheap, small and light. They offer the perfect opportunity for exercise when you have to read something either on your screen or on paper, because, as you read, you probably won't need to use your hands very often. Use this opportunity to squeeze your gripper, do bicep curls, or do an exercise with your exercise band. The more frequently (and vigorously) you're able to exercise, the more calories you'll burn.
2-5. Fidget.
Some research has shown that even very low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can help burn extra calories and increase overall fitness. In fact, one study found that, if obese individuals were to adopt the daily activity habits of lean people, including a proclivity for fidgeting, they could stand to burn around 300 extra calories per day. All other factors being equal, this translates into up to about 30 pounds lost per year!
Fidgeting is one of several calorie-burning behaviors in classified as Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT), or any movement that isn't intended as exercise. Depending on how often (and vigorously) you increase NEAT, you can conceivably burn an extra 100-150 calories an hour.
Tips
Always consult with your physician before starting any type of physical activity to ensure you are healthy enough to participate.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:28",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Burning Calories Away from Your Desk\\n1-1. Walk while you discuss business.\\nRather than sitting in a stuffy office or conference room to tackle important business conversations, when you get the chance, go for a walk outside. Unless there's inclement weather, this practice is so much more stimulating and satisfying than a typical yawn-inducing sit-down meeting that it's a wonder it's not more common. Walking while you talk gives you a great opportunity to burn calories without having to abandon your work. You can walk while you touch base, meet about relevant work issues, or discuss plans for the future. Walking may even re-energize you, giving you more energy to tackle these tasks than you normally would have!\\n1-2. Make your commute an opportunity to get exercise.\\nOne of the absolute best ways to add exercise to your daily work routine and start burning calories is to treat your commute as an exciting chance to exercise each day, rather than something you have to endure to get to work. Use any method you can to avoid sitting in your car during morning traffic. Walk or bike to work if you live close enough to do so. If you don't, look for public transit nodes that are within biking or walking distance, then use these to complete your journey to work.\\nOver time, avoiding car use can actually save you a great deal of money. Biking and walking is nearly expense-free - the only things you'll need to spend money on are your shoes and/or any replacement bike parts. Public transit tickets can be a greater expense, but, compared to weekly or bi-weekly trips to the gas station (to say nothing of car maintenance costs), are often the cheaper bet.\\n1-3. Start a mini workout club at the office.\\nAny workout is easier when you have people by your side to support and encourage you, so, if you can, consider starting a workout group at your office with some of your coworkers. This practice is actually already fairly common within smaller companies or start-ups. As part of your routine, you might, for instance, designate 15 minutes before lunch every day for mini-workouts focusing on rotating muscle groups - Monday, Wednesday, and Friday you could focus on arms and have \\\"push-up club\\\", whereas Tuesday and Thursday you could focus on abs and have \\\"abs club\\\". Alternatively, you might agree to play a round of pick-up basketball after work every day. The choices are endless, limited only by the tastes of you and your coworkers.\\nIf your boss allows you to, you may want to try advertising for your workout club in break areas, during lunches, etc.\\n1-4. Go out during your lunch break.\\nDepending on the culture of your office, your lunch break may be up to an hour long. If you have time, use your break as an opportunity for a quick aerobic exercise session. Try briskly walking, jogging, or biking to your destination if you can. If you're getting take-out food, you might even try going for a walk as you eat.\\n1-5. Walk quickly at work.\\nMake the most of every opportunity you have to get up and move! When you have to walk around the office, try to move quickly. You don't have to sprint around the office and risk running into someone to reap the benefits of picking up your pace - merely walking at a brisker pace than normal can give you a calorie-burning boost. You may be surprised what a workout it is to constantly walk quickly, especially if you have a job that frequently requires you to stay on your feet all day.\\n1-6. Plan business travel to fit your fitness needs.\\nThough business trips can have you moving about the country (or even the world), they can sometimes restrict your ability to actually move. Countless hours in planes, buses, limos, trains, and the like can take their toll on your calorie-burning efforts. Worse, many important business meetings can take place over rich, decadent, calorie-dense meals. So, if you get the chance, plan ahead. Bring a form of exercise (like a hand gripper or exercise bands) with you so that you can do it in the hotel or in your seat as you travel. Better still, try to book a hotel that has a workout room or gym available to guests. When you travel, you'll be away from your creature comforts, but this is no excuse to neglect your body.\\n1-7. Weight train to boost your metabolism so you burn more calories at work.\\nMuscle tissue burns more calories than fat tissue does (73 more calories per kilogram per day, to be precise), so the more muscle you build, the higher your resting metabolic rate (RMR) will be. Think of every muscle cell that you gain like a little factory that constantly burns calories for you, even while you sleep, and revs up when you exercise. Building muscle through weightlifting, strength-training exercises, and the like outside of work is a great way to guarantee that you burn as many calories as you can at work, even on the rare occasions when you have to remain motionless.\\n1-8. Reach for the caffeine, pass on the sugar and cream.\\nThere is some evidence that supports the theory that caffeine can help you lose weight, though the link is by no means concrete. Caffeine may be able to increase the number of calories you burn by stimulating the process of thermogenesis - a way in which your body generates heat and energy. Caffeine may also suppress your appetite, leading you to eat less food than you normally would. However, the most useful aspect of caffeine may be simply that it can give you the energy to focus - for instance, on walking just a little further at your treadmill or on squeezing your hand gripper just one more time.\\nIn any case, don't rely too heavily on caffeine as an exercise or weight loss aid. It's no substitute for actual exercise and, if you consume too much, any calorie-burning effects will be overpowered by the fact that you'll be a jittery, nervous wreck.\\n2. Burning Calories at Your Desk\\n2-1. Create (or buy) a standing desk.\\nThe best way to burn calories while you work at a desk is to eliminate the factors that make desk work such a sedentary activity, namely, motionless sitting. Rather than sitting down all day, try migrating to a nearby table, counter, or filing cabinet, and, if it is tall enough, set up your laptop there and work while standing. If it's too short, try stacking a few sturdy boxes on top of each other to support your laptop at a higher level. Standing burns more calories than sitting - the precise difference varies from person to person, but is generally about 50 calories per hour.\\nIn itself, 50 calories isn't much, but over time even this tiny extra effort can produce results. Let's assume you stand for 4 hours each day at the office - that's 200 calories per day. Over a 5 day work week, that's 1,000 calories. This is high enough that, all other factors being equal, you might even start to lose weight, albeit at a gradual rate, as it takes about 3,500 calories gained or lost for your body to lose or gain 1 pound of fat.\\n2-2. Work at a treadmill.\\nEven better for your physical health than a standing desk is a treadmill desk or walking desk. Working at a treadmill allows you to experience mild exercise as you work - in addition to burning calories, you may find that walking as you work even boosts your energy and motivation levels. Walking desks are commercially available, though they can be somewhat pricey. If you have access to a normal treadmill, a more affordable option is to buy (or make, or improvise) a special stand that allows you to prop a laptop on the sloped surface of most treadmills.\\nYou don't have to jog or even break a sweat to get the benefits of working at a treadmill, but the faster you go, the more calories you'll burn.\\n2-3. Invest in a balance ball chair.\\nBelieve it or not, it's possible to start burning calories and toning your midsection simply by changing the type of chair you use. If your office won't provide one for you, consider buying your own balance ball chair. As you sit in this special type of chair, your body has to subtly flex its core (torso) muscles to keep you upright and balanced. Over time, you will feel a gentle \\\"burn\\\" in your midsection, signifying that you're using your muscles (and burning calories). \\nAs an added feature, balance ball chairs allow you to gently bounce up and down while sitting, expending a little extra energy and burning more calories in the process.\\n2-4. Use a hand gripper, small dumbbell, or exercise band.\\nIf you're unable to get any cardio or core exercise at your desk, you still have the option of burning calories with your upper body. A variety of options exist for engaging your upper body while you work - some of the most common are squeezable hand grip devices, small dumbbells, exercise bands, and the like. These options are cheap, small and light. They offer the perfect opportunity for exercise when you have to read something either on your screen or on paper, because, as you read, you probably won't need to use your hands very often. Use this opportunity to squeeze your gripper, do bicep curls, or do an exercise with your exercise band. The more frequently (and vigorously) you're able to exercise, the more calories you'll burn.\\n2-5. Fidget.\\nSome research has shown that even very low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can help burn extra calories and increase overall fitness. In fact, one study found that, if obese individuals were to adopt the daily activity habits of lean people, including a proclivity for fidgeting, they could stand to burn around 300 extra calories per day. All other factors being equal, this translates into up to about 30 pounds lost per year!\\nFidgeting is one of several calorie-burning behaviors in classified as Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT), or any movement that isn't intended as exercise. Depending on how often (and vigorously) you increase NEAT, you can conceivably burn an extra 100-150 calories an hour.\\nTips\\nAlways consult with your physician before starting any type of physical activity to ensure you are healthy enough to participate.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Sedentary jobs, like ones that involve sitting at a desk and staring at a computer screen for five days a week, aren't just tedious - they can be hazardous to your health. Consistently sitting for long periods of time every day has been linked to a variety of health problems, including obesity, high cholesterol, heart disease, and even cancer. Fortunately, certain handy techniques allow you to get your blood pumping and calories burning while still getting your work done. See Step 1 below to get started burning calories at work.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Burning Calories Away from Your Desk\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Walk while you discuss business.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than sitting in a stuffy office or conference room to tackle important business conversations, when you get the chance, go for a walk outside. Unless there's inclement weather, this practice is so much more stimulating and satisfying than a typical yawn-inducing sit-down meeting that it's a wonder it's not more common. Walking while you talk gives you a great opportunity to burn calories without having to abandon your work. You can walk while you touch base, meet about relevant work issues, or discuss plans for the future. Walking may even re-energize you, giving you more energy to tackle these tasks than you normally would have!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make your commute an opportunity to get exercise.\", \"描述\": \"One of the absolute best ways to add exercise to your daily work routine and start burning calories is to treat your commute as an exciting chance to exercise each day, rather than something you have to endure to get to work. Use any method you can to avoid sitting in your car during morning traffic. Walk or bike to work if you live close enough to do so. If you don't, look for public transit nodes that are within biking or walking distance, then use these to complete your journey to work.\\nOver time, avoiding car use can actually save you a great deal of money. Biking and walking is nearly expense-free - the only things you'll need to spend money on are your shoes and/or any replacement bike parts. Public transit tickets can be a greater expense, but, compared to weekly or bi-weekly trips to the gas station (to say nothing of car maintenance costs), are often the cheaper bet.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Start a mini workout club at the office.\", \"描述\": \"Any workout is easier when you have people by your side to support and encourage you, so, if you can, consider starting a workout group at your office with some of your coworkers. This practice is actually already fairly common within smaller companies or start-ups. As part of your routine, you might, for instance, designate 15 minutes before lunch every day for mini-workouts focusing on rotating muscle groups - Monday, Wednesday, and Friday you could focus on arms and have \\\"push-up club\\\", whereas Tuesday and Thursday you could focus on abs and have \\\"abs club\\\". Alternatively, you might agree to play a round of pick-up basketball after work every day. The choices are endless, limited only by the tastes of you and your coworkers.\\nIf your boss allows you to, you may want to try advertising for your workout club in break areas, during lunches, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Go out during your lunch break.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the culture of your office, your lunch break may be up to an hour long. If you have time, use your break as an opportunity for a quick aerobic exercise session. Try briskly walking, jogging, or biking to your destination if you can. If you're getting take-out food, you might even try going for a walk as you eat.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Walk quickly at work.\", \"描述\": \"Make the most of every opportunity you have to get up and move! When you have to walk around the office, try to move quickly. You don't have to sprint around the office and risk running into someone to reap the benefits of picking up your pace - merely walking at a brisker pace than normal can give you a calorie-burning boost. You may be surprised what a workout it is to constantly walk quickly, especially if you have a job that frequently requires you to stay on your feet all day.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Plan business travel to fit your fitness needs.\", \"描述\": \"Though business trips can have you moving about the country (or even the world), they can sometimes restrict your ability to actually move. Countless hours in planes, buses, limos, trains, and the like can take their toll on your calorie-burning efforts. Worse, many important business meetings can take place over rich, decadent, calorie-dense meals. So, if you get the chance, plan ahead. Bring a form of exercise (like a hand gripper or exercise bands) with you so that you can do it in the hotel or in your seat as you travel. Better still, try to book a hotel that has a workout room or gym available to guests. When you travel, you'll be away from your creature comforts, but this is no excuse to neglect your body.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Weight train to boost your metabolism so you burn more calories at work.\", \"描述\": \"Muscle tissue burns more calories than fat tissue does (73 more calories per kilogram per day, to be precise), so the more muscle you build, the higher your resting metabolic rate (RMR) will be. Think of every muscle cell that you gain like a little factory that constantly burns calories for you, even while you sleep, and revs up when you exercise. Building muscle through weightlifting, strength-training exercises, and the like outside of work is a great way to guarantee that you burn as many calories as you can at work, even on the rare occasions when you have to remain motionless.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Reach for the caffeine, pass on the sugar and cream.\", \"描述\": \"There is some evidence that supports the theory that caffeine can help you lose weight, though the link is by no means concrete. Caffeine may be able to increase the number of calories you burn by stimulating the process of thermogenesis - a way in which your body generates heat and energy. Caffeine may also suppress your appetite, leading you to eat less food than you normally would. However, the most useful aspect of caffeine may be simply that it can give you the energy to focus - for instance, on walking just a little further at your treadmill or on squeezing your hand gripper just one more time.\\nIn any case, don't rely too heavily on caffeine as an exercise or weight loss aid. It's no substitute for actual exercise and, if you consume too much, any calorie-burning effects will be overpowered by the fact that you'll be a jittery, nervous wreck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Burning Calories at Your Desk\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create (or buy) a standing desk.\", \"描述\": \"The best way to burn calories while you work at a desk is to eliminate the factors that make desk work such a sedentary activity, namely, motionless sitting. Rather than sitting down all day, try migrating to a nearby table, counter, or filing cabinet, and, if it is tall enough, set up your laptop there and work while standing. If it's too short, try stacking a few sturdy boxes on top of each other to support your laptop at a higher level. Standing burns more calories than sitting - the precise difference varies from person to person, but is generally about 50 calories per hour.\\nIn itself, 50 calories isn't much, but over time even this tiny extra effort can produce results. Let's assume you stand for 4 hours each day at the office - that's 200 calories per day. Over a 5 day work week, that's 1,000 calories. This is high enough that, all other factors being equal, you might even start to lose weight, albeit at a gradual rate, as it takes about 3,500 calories gained or lost for your body to lose or gain 1 pound of fat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Work at a treadmill.\", \"描述\": \"Even better for your physical health than a standing desk is a treadmill desk or walking desk. Working at a treadmill allows you to experience mild exercise as you work - in addition to burning calories, you may find that walking as you work even boosts your energy and motivation levels. Walking desks are commercially available, though they can be somewhat pricey. If you have access to a normal treadmill, a more affordable option is to buy (or make, or improvise) a special stand that allows you to prop a laptop on the sloped surface of most treadmills.\\nYou don't have to jog or even break a sweat to get the benefits of working at a treadmill, but the faster you go, the more calories you'll burn.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Invest in a balance ball chair.\", \"描述\": \"Believe it or not, it's possible to start burning calories and toning your midsection simply by changing the type of chair you use. If your office won't provide one for you, consider buying your own balance ball chair. As you sit in this special type of chair, your body has to subtly flex its core (torso) muscles to keep you upright and balanced. Over time, you will feel a gentle \\\"burn\\\" in your midsection, signifying that you're using your muscles (and burning calories). \\nAs an added feature, balance ball chairs allow you to gently bounce up and down while sitting, expending a little extra energy and burning more calories in the process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use a hand gripper, small dumbbell, or exercise band.\", \"描述\": \"If you're unable to get any cardio or core exercise at your desk, you still have the option of burning calories with your upper body. A variety of options exist for engaging your upper body while you work - some of the most common are squeezable hand grip devices, small dumbbells, exercise bands, and the like. These options are cheap, small and light. They offer the perfect opportunity for exercise when you have to read something either on your screen or on paper, because, as you read, you probably won't need to use your hands very often. Use this opportunity to squeeze your gripper, do bicep curls, or do an exercise with your exercise band. The more frequently (and vigorously) you're able to exercise, the more calories you'll burn.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fidget.\", \"描述\": \"Some research has shown that even very low-grade activity (tapping feet and fingers, twirling hair, gesturing while speaking, etc.) can help burn extra calories and increase overall fitness. In fact, one study found that, if obese individuals were to adopt the daily activity habits of lean people, including a proclivity for fidgeting, they could stand to burn around 300 extra calories per day. All other factors being equal, this translates into up to about 30 pounds lost per year!\\nFidgeting is one of several calorie-burning behaviors in classified as Non-Exercise Activity Thermogenesis (NEAT), or any movement that isn't intended as exercise. Depending on how often (and vigorously) you increase NEAT, you can conceivably burn an extra 100-150 calories an hour.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always consult with your physician before starting any type of physical activity to ensure you are healthy enough to participate.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
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wikihow
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7,710 |
How to Burn Candles Evenly
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1. Lighting Candles Properly
1-1. Position a candle vertically on a flat, stable surface.
If you place a candle on an uneven surface, the wax will melt in irregular patterns and the flickering flames might give off dark smoke stains. Tapers and pillar candles will drip excessively if they're not totally upright. Most importantly, it's highly unsafe to place a candle on an unstable or angled surface, such as a chair seat or a wobbly table.
The surface should also be fire resistant.
1-2. Light candles with a long lighter or long matches.
If you keep the candle level and use a long match or lighter, you'll more easily be able to reach the wick and won't start an uneven burn. Strike a match or engage the lighter, and touch the flame to the wick. As soon as it ignites, remove the lighter or match and extinguish the flame.
If you blow out the match, do this away from the candle flame.
With short lighters and matches, it's sometimes necessary to turn the candle sideways to reach the wick. This will cause some flickering and might unevenly melt the wax, leading to an uneven burn.
1-3. Keep burning candles away from drafts.
Flickering flames might look pretty, but they don't burn candles evenly. Place your candle in a breeze-free location, away from fans, air conditioning units, open windows, passers-by, and any other source of moving air.
Flickering flames also leave unattractive smoke stains. These are especially noticeable on glass candle jars.
This is also a safety precaution. Even a gentle breeze might blow a piece of paper or a curtain corner directly into the flame.
1-4. Trim candle wicks to be ⁄8 to ⁄4 in (0.32 to 0.64 cm) tall before each use.
Long, uncut wicks often take on a mushroom-like shape. This creates a wide, unstable flame that flickers, gives off smoke, and prevents the candle from burning evenly. Combat this by using a wick trimmer or a pair of scissors to chop the top of the wick off, once the wax has completely cool.
Discard all the wick trimmings and make sure there's no ashy residue left sitting on the wax.
Even if there's not much height to trim off, you should trim the wick before every single use to get the most stable flame and the most even burn.
1-5. Melt the entire top layer of wax during the first burn.
Allow poured and pillar candles to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar. For a pillar candle, snuff out the flame once you notice the wax pool stops widening and start to sink, snuff out the flame.
This might take several hours, depending on the type and size of the candle. A rule of thumb is that it takes about 1 hour per 1 in (2.5 cm) of the candle's diameter.
For example, if your candle's diameter is 4 in (10 cm) you can expect to burn it for 4 hours the first time.
1-6. Avoid memory rings by allowing the top layer of wax to melt during each burn.
A candle can “remember” how much wax melted during previous burns. The pool of melted wax will continue to get narrower and narrower if you aren't careful, and you'll end up with tunneling. To prevent this, follow the same process as you did during the initial burn. Monitor the candle during every burn session and allow the entire top layer of wax to melt.
1-7. Burn candles for a maximum of 4 hours.
Monitor the candle's progress continually, and snuff out the flame as soon as you notice the wax has pooled all the way across the top level. Anything beyond 4 hours can cause the wax and fragrance oils to ignite.
Follow the candle manufacturer's instructions for maximum burn times. Some candles can only withstand shorter burns.
1-8. Consider purchasing a multi-wick candle.
It might seem like more wicks would lead to a quicker burn, but in fact, multiple wicks contribute to slower, more even burns. The wicks are spread out evenly and, in poured candles, they're positioned closer to the edges of the jar. This means that that the wax will burn in a nice even layer and tunneling won't likely occur.
For instance, a 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter candle with 3 wicks will burn longer and more evenly than the same sized candle with only 1 wick.
If you discover that the wick is off-center in your 1-wick candle, your chances of an uneven burn are higher. More wicks improve your chances of success.
2. Extinguishing and Storing Candles
2-1. Stop burning candles when there's still a little wax left.
Cease burning stand-alone tapers and pillar candles once the wax has burned down to 2 in (5.1 cm). As for poured candles, stop burning these when only ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of wax remains in the jar. Follow this precaution even if there's lots of wax left above the wick due to tunneling.
With less wax left to fuel the flame, a candle can quickly become unstable and hazardous.
After properly burning a poured candle, you can often reuse the jar. Place it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Pop out the remaining wax using a butter knife and you'll be left with a nice new storage container.
2-2. Sprinkle salt onto an extinguished candle's melted wax.
Salt slows down wax's melting rate, leading to a slower and more even burn. After you've extinguished a pillar candle, poured candle, or votive, sprinkle a dash of iodized table salt onto the pool of melted wax. Mix it thoroughly into the liquid wax using a toothpick. Let the wax cool completely.
You can keep adding salt after subsequent burn sessions to lengthen the life of the candle.
2-3. Snuff out a candle's flame instead of blowing it out.
Blowing out a candle actually spreads ashy debris into the melted wax and potentially onto the candle holder. When you're ready to extinguish the flame, hold a candle snuffer directly over the flame and lower it until it's just above the melted pool of wax. Hold it there for 2 or 3 seconds. Once the flame has used up the remaining oxygen under the snuffer, it will go out.
If you don't have a candle snuffer, a large metal spoon will do the trick.
If your candle came with a fireproof lid, such as a glass cover, place this over the lit candle and the flame will extinguish itself. Be aware that the lid might end up with some ashy residue though.
2-4. Don't extinguish candle flames with water.
Although fire and water might seem like a logical choice, water is an unsafe candle extinguishing option. The force of even a glass of water will splash hot wax all over the place -- the candle jar or holder, the table, and possibly even the walls and floor. Even worse, the wax is likely to splash out and burn your skin.
This is especially important to avoid with glass candle jars. The hot glass will shatter upon contact with cold water.
2-5. Allow the wax to completely cool before moving or reusing a candle.
Leave the candle in place until all the melted wax has cooled and hardened. It is unsafe to pick up a liquefied candle. Plus, you're likely to slosh around the hot wax which will drip down the sides or stick to the edges of the jar.
To extend the life of a candle, don't burn it for more than 1 session every 24 hours.
2-6. Store candles
The colder the wax is, the slower it will melt. Place your candle in the freezer a few hours before you plan to burn it and you'll notice a slower, more even burn. Better yet, store your candles in the freezer when they're not in use.
Narrow tapers will freeze after just 1 hour. You can place these in the freezer right before you start preparing a dinner party.
Large pillars might take up to 8 hours to completely freeze. Pop these in the freezer the night before, or first thing in the morning in preparation for a candlelit evening.
2-7. Protect candles from dust.
Dust will burn up in the flames, causing smoke, crackling, and an uneven burn. Use nylon pantyhose to wipe the dust off of candles. If your poured candle came with a cover, store it with the lid on securely. Otherwise, keep candles in a dust-free drawer or cupboard (or in the freezer). You can easily wrap tapers and pillar candles in tissue paper. Store votives in boxes or plastic baggies.
You should only wipe down, wrap up, or store candles once the wax is completely hardened and cool.
3. Preventing Tunneling in Poured and Pillar Candles
3-1. Melt the top layer of wax completely during the initial burn of a poured candle.
After you light your brand new poured candle, allow it to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar.
3-2. Burn a pillar candle until a wide pool of melted wax forms during the first burn.
Unlike a poured candle, a pillar doesn't have a container in which the melted wax can pool. But you can follow the same technique to avoid tunneling. Make sure a wide pool of wax forms during the first burn. Once you notice the wax pool stops getting wider and begins to sink lower, snuff out the flame.
3-3. Melt the top layer of wax for every subsequent burn.
The initial burn of a pillar and poured candles is crucial to get right, but the work doesn't end there. Follow the same technique each time you burn the candle. The wax should always melt in an even layer, right out to the edges of the jar. It will solidify in a flat, even layer and no tunneling will occur.
Poured and pillar candles, especially large ones, need to burn for several hours to achieve an even layer of melted wax. Don't light one if you aren't planning to keep it lit and monitored for a short duration.
3-4. Fold in the top edges of a pillar candle while the wax is still soft.
Once the flame is extinguished, use your hands to smooth over the top edges of the pillar. Fold them in towards the center so that the hard edges become soft curves leaning inward. During the next burn, these edges will melt away and there won't be any excess wax to create a tunneling effect.
3-5. Warm a candle in the oven to soften the tunneling.
Preheat your oven to 175 °F (79 °C) and place your candle jar onto a baking sheet. Put the candle in the oven for about 5 minutes to soften the wax and loosen it up from the edges of the jar. Once it's warm, flatten it into an even layer using a butter knife or metal teaspoon.
If the wick gets covered by the wax, remove the excess. You'll need at least ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) of the wick exposed to get a satisfactory burn.
Make sure the candle's jar is oven-safe before following this process.
You can also warm up the wax using a hairdryer on a high heat setting. After about 10 minutes the wax will start to soften up.
3-6. Wrap aluminum foil around the top of a candle jar to melt away the tunneling.
Light the candle first. Then carefully wrap a cylinder of double-layered aluminum foil about 6 in (15 cm) tall by 12 in (30 cm) wide around the top portion of the candle jar. Leave about 3 in (7.6 cm) extending above the jar and cup in the top edges of foil to form a rounded cover with an opening in the center. Remove the foil wrap after 2 hours and the wax tunneling should be melted.
Make sure you monitor your candle while it burns. Just because you can't see the flame doesn't mean it's a potential hazard.
3-7. Burn a pillar candle in a hurricane vase.
Select an open-topped glass hurricane vase that your pillar candle can fit inside. The vase should be a few inches taller than the candle. Burn the candle in the hurricane to trap in more heat and more quickly soften and melt the wax for a more even burn.
3-8. Cut away excess tunneling with a butter knife.
When the wax is warm and soft, use a metal butter knife to cut out the hard pieces of wax. Carve out small sections and dislodge them from the sides of the jar. Remove all the excess until you have a relatively smooth, flat top layer of wax, sitting ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) below the top of the wick.
You can do this after warming the candle in the oven, or after a burn session before the wax has completely cooled.
Try saving the pieces of wax to warm over a tealight warmer. This way, you'll still get to enjoy the fragrance and won't waste any part of the candle.
4. Burning Tapers Evenly
4-1. Keep lit tapers totally upright and away from drafts.
This is necessary for all types of candles, but it is especially important for evenly burning tapers. Only place a taper in a taper holder or candlestick that fits it securely. There should be no wobbling or leaning.
You can melt a few drops of wax into the base of the taper holder to help the candle stay in place. But if there's a fit issue to begin with, you probably won't get the most even burn from the taper.
4-2. Direct all air flow away from lit tapers.
Again, this is important for any type of candle. But even the slightest air movement can have a noticeable impact on burning tapers. Direct any fans and vents away from the tapers, and keep nearby windows closed. Air movement will disturb the flame and will lead to lopsided tapers dripping with wax.
4-3. Opt for “dripless” tapers.
Although the name is a bit of an exaggeration, the wax of a “dripless” candle is designed to cool and harden very quickly. So, even if your candle drips a little, the drips will harden into place. You'll be able to peel them off, or shave them off with a butter knife, once the candle is extinguished.
As a bonus, you can choose paraffin or beeswax candles which tend to have a slower burn time. The slower the burn, the less opportunity for drippage.
Warnings
Never, under any circumstances, leave burning candles unattended. It's safer to extinguish a candle before all the wax melts than it is to risk a major fire. If you plan to exit and enter the room, snuff out the flame and relight it when you get back.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Lighting Candles Properly\\n1-1. Position a candle vertically on a flat, stable surface.\\nIf you place a candle on an uneven surface, the wax will melt in irregular patterns and the flickering flames might give off dark smoke stains. Tapers and pillar candles will drip excessively if they're not totally upright. Most importantly, it's highly unsafe to place a candle on an unstable or angled surface, such as a chair seat or a wobbly table.\\nThe surface should also be fire resistant.\\n1-2. Light candles with a long lighter or long matches.\\nIf you keep the candle level and use a long match or lighter, you'll more easily be able to reach the wick and won't start an uneven burn. Strike a match or engage the lighter, and touch the flame to the wick. As soon as it ignites, remove the lighter or match and extinguish the flame.\\nIf you blow out the match, do this away from the candle flame.\\nWith short lighters and matches, it's sometimes necessary to turn the candle sideways to reach the wick. This will cause some flickering and might unevenly melt the wax, leading to an uneven burn.\\n1-3. Keep burning candles away from drafts.\\nFlickering flames might look pretty, but they don't burn candles evenly. Place your candle in a breeze-free location, away from fans, air conditioning units, open windows, passers-by, and any other source of moving air.\\nFlickering flames also leave unattractive smoke stains. These are especially noticeable on glass candle jars.\\nThis is also a safety precaution. Even a gentle breeze might blow a piece of paper or a curtain corner directly into the flame.\\n1-4. Trim candle wicks to be ⁄8 to ⁄4 in (0.32 to 0.64 cm) tall before each use.\\nLong, uncut wicks often take on a mushroom-like shape. This creates a wide, unstable flame that flickers, gives off smoke, and prevents the candle from burning evenly. Combat this by using a wick trimmer or a pair of scissors to chop the top of the wick off, once the wax has completely cool.\\nDiscard all the wick trimmings and make sure there's no ashy residue left sitting on the wax.\\nEven if there's not much height to trim off, you should trim the wick before every single use to get the most stable flame and the most even burn.\\n1-5. Melt the entire top layer of wax during the first burn.\\nAllow poured and pillar candles to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar. For a pillar candle, snuff out the flame once you notice the wax pool stops widening and start to sink, snuff out the flame. \\nThis might take several hours, depending on the type and size of the candle. A rule of thumb is that it takes about 1 hour per 1 in (2.5 cm) of the candle's diameter.\\nFor example, if your candle's diameter is 4 in (10 cm) you can expect to burn it for 4 hours the first time.\\n1-6. Avoid memory rings by allowing the top layer of wax to melt during each burn.\\nA candle can “remember” how much wax melted during previous burns. The pool of melted wax will continue to get narrower and narrower if you aren't careful, and you'll end up with tunneling. To prevent this, follow the same process as you did during the initial burn. Monitor the candle during every burn session and allow the entire top layer of wax to melt.\\n1-7. Burn candles for a maximum of 4 hours.\\nMonitor the candle's progress continually, and snuff out the flame as soon as you notice the wax has pooled all the way across the top level. Anything beyond 4 hours can cause the wax and fragrance oils to ignite.\\nFollow the candle manufacturer's instructions for maximum burn times. Some candles can only withstand shorter burns.\\n1-8. Consider purchasing a multi-wick candle.\\nIt might seem like more wicks would lead to a quicker burn, but in fact, multiple wicks contribute to slower, more even burns. The wicks are spread out evenly and, in poured candles, they're positioned closer to the edges of the jar. This means that that the wax will burn in a nice even layer and tunneling won't likely occur.\\nFor instance, a 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter candle with 3 wicks will burn longer and more evenly than the same sized candle with only 1 wick.\\nIf you discover that the wick is off-center in your 1-wick candle, your chances of an uneven burn are higher. More wicks improve your chances of success.\\n2. Extinguishing and Storing Candles\\n2-1. Stop burning candles when there's still a little wax left.\\nCease burning stand-alone tapers and pillar candles once the wax has burned down to 2 in (5.1 cm). As for poured candles, stop burning these when only ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of wax remains in the jar. Follow this precaution even if there's lots of wax left above the wick due to tunneling.\\nWith less wax left to fuel the flame, a candle can quickly become unstable and hazardous.\\nAfter properly burning a poured candle, you can often reuse the jar. Place it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Pop out the remaining wax using a butter knife and you'll be left with a nice new storage container.\\n2-2. Sprinkle salt onto an extinguished candle's melted wax.\\nSalt slows down wax's melting rate, leading to a slower and more even burn. After you've extinguished a pillar candle, poured candle, or votive, sprinkle a dash of iodized table salt onto the pool of melted wax. Mix it thoroughly into the liquid wax using a toothpick. Let the wax cool completely.\\nYou can keep adding salt after subsequent burn sessions to lengthen the life of the candle.\\n2-3. Snuff out a candle's flame instead of blowing it out.\\nBlowing out a candle actually spreads ashy debris into the melted wax and potentially onto the candle holder. When you're ready to extinguish the flame, hold a candle snuffer directly over the flame and lower it until it's just above the melted pool of wax. Hold it there for 2 or 3 seconds. Once the flame has used up the remaining oxygen under the snuffer, it will go out.\\nIf you don't have a candle snuffer, a large metal spoon will do the trick.\\nIf your candle came with a fireproof lid, such as a glass cover, place this over the lit candle and the flame will extinguish itself. Be aware that the lid might end up with some ashy residue though.\\n2-4. Don't extinguish candle flames with water.\\nAlthough fire and water might seem like a logical choice, water is an unsafe candle extinguishing option. The force of even a glass of water will splash hot wax all over the place -- the candle jar or holder, the table, and possibly even the walls and floor. Even worse, the wax is likely to splash out and burn your skin.\\nThis is especially important to avoid with glass candle jars. The hot glass will shatter upon contact with cold water.\\n2-5. Allow the wax to completely cool before moving or reusing a candle.\\nLeave the candle in place until all the melted wax has cooled and hardened. It is unsafe to pick up a liquefied candle. Plus, you're likely to slosh around the hot wax which will drip down the sides or stick to the edges of the jar.\\nTo extend the life of a candle, don't burn it for more than 1 session every 24 hours.\\n2-6. Store candles\\nThe colder the wax is, the slower it will melt. Place your candle in the freezer a few hours before you plan to burn it and you'll notice a slower, more even burn. Better yet, store your candles in the freezer when they're not in use.\\nNarrow tapers will freeze after just 1 hour. You can place these in the freezer right before you start preparing a dinner party.\\nLarge pillars might take up to 8 hours to completely freeze. Pop these in the freezer the night before, or first thing in the morning in preparation for a candlelit evening.\\n2-7. Protect candles from dust.\\nDust will burn up in the flames, causing smoke, crackling, and an uneven burn. Use nylon pantyhose to wipe the dust off of candles. If your poured candle came with a cover, store it with the lid on securely. Otherwise, keep candles in a dust-free drawer or cupboard (or in the freezer). You can easily wrap tapers and pillar candles in tissue paper. Store votives in boxes or plastic baggies.\\nYou should only wipe down, wrap up, or store candles once the wax is completely hardened and cool.\\n3. Preventing Tunneling in Poured and Pillar Candles\\n3-1. Melt the top layer of wax completely during the initial burn of a poured candle.\\nAfter you light your brand new poured candle, allow it to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar.\\n3-2. Burn a pillar candle until a wide pool of melted wax forms during the first burn.\\nUnlike a poured candle, a pillar doesn't have a container in which the melted wax can pool. But you can follow the same technique to avoid tunneling. Make sure a wide pool of wax forms during the first burn. Once you notice the wax pool stops getting wider and begins to sink lower, snuff out the flame.\\n3-3. Melt the top layer of wax for every subsequent burn.\\nThe initial burn of a pillar and poured candles is crucial to get right, but the work doesn't end there. Follow the same technique each time you burn the candle. The wax should always melt in an even layer, right out to the edges of the jar. It will solidify in a flat, even layer and no tunneling will occur.\\nPoured and pillar candles, especially large ones, need to burn for several hours to achieve an even layer of melted wax. Don't light one if you aren't planning to keep it lit and monitored for a short duration.\\n3-4. Fold in the top edges of a pillar candle while the wax is still soft.\\nOnce the flame is extinguished, use your hands to smooth over the top edges of the pillar. Fold them in towards the center so that the hard edges become soft curves leaning inward. During the next burn, these edges will melt away and there won't be any excess wax to create a tunneling effect.\\n3-5. Warm a candle in the oven to soften the tunneling.\\nPreheat your oven to 175 °F (79 °C) and place your candle jar onto a baking sheet. Put the candle in the oven for about 5 minutes to soften the wax and loosen it up from the edges of the jar. Once it's warm, flatten it into an even layer using a butter knife or metal teaspoon.\\nIf the wick gets covered by the wax, remove the excess. You'll need at least ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) of the wick exposed to get a satisfactory burn.\\nMake sure the candle's jar is oven-safe before following this process.\\nYou can also warm up the wax using a hairdryer on a high heat setting. After about 10 minutes the wax will start to soften up.\\n3-6. Wrap aluminum foil around the top of a candle jar to melt away the tunneling.\\nLight the candle first. Then carefully wrap a cylinder of double-layered aluminum foil about 6 in (15 cm) tall by 12 in (30 cm) wide around the top portion of the candle jar. Leave about 3 in (7.6 cm) extending above the jar and cup in the top edges of foil to form a rounded cover with an opening in the center. Remove the foil wrap after 2 hours and the wax tunneling should be melted.\\nMake sure you monitor your candle while it burns. Just because you can't see the flame doesn't mean it's a potential hazard.\\n3-7. Burn a pillar candle in a hurricane vase.\\nSelect an open-topped glass hurricane vase that your pillar candle can fit inside. The vase should be a few inches taller than the candle. Burn the candle in the hurricane to trap in more heat and more quickly soften and melt the wax for a more even burn.\\n3-8. Cut away excess tunneling with a butter knife.\\nWhen the wax is warm and soft, use a metal butter knife to cut out the hard pieces of wax. Carve out small sections and dislodge them from the sides of the jar. Remove all the excess until you have a relatively smooth, flat top layer of wax, sitting ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) below the top of the wick.\\nYou can do this after warming the candle in the oven, or after a burn session before the wax has completely cooled.\\nTry saving the pieces of wax to warm over a tealight warmer. This way, you'll still get to enjoy the fragrance and won't waste any part of the candle.\\n4. Burning Tapers Evenly\\n4-1. Keep lit tapers totally upright and away from drafts.\\nThis is necessary for all types of candles, but it is especially important for evenly burning tapers. Only place a taper in a taper holder or candlestick that fits it securely. There should be no wobbling or leaning.\\nYou can melt a few drops of wax into the base of the taper holder to help the candle stay in place. But if there's a fit issue to begin with, you probably won't get the most even burn from the taper.\\n4-2. Direct all air flow away from lit tapers.\\nAgain, this is important for any type of candle. But even the slightest air movement can have a noticeable impact on burning tapers. Direct any fans and vents away from the tapers, and keep nearby windows closed. Air movement will disturb the flame and will lead to lopsided tapers dripping with wax.\\n4-3. Opt for “dripless” tapers.\\nAlthough the name is a bit of an exaggeration, the wax of a “dripless” candle is designed to cool and harden very quickly. So, even if your candle drips a little, the drips will harden into place. You'll be able to peel them off, or shave them off with a butter knife, once the candle is extinguished.\\nAs a bonus, you can choose paraffin or beeswax candles which tend to have a slower burn time. The slower the burn, the less opportunity for drippage.\\nWarnings\\nNever, under any circumstances, leave burning candles unattended. It's safer to extinguish a candle before all the wax melts than it is to risk a major fire. If you plan to exit and enter the room, snuff out the flame and relight it when you get back.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Candles “remember” how they burned previously, and tend to follow the same pattern during subsequent burns. If the wax around the edges never melted, the wick will sink into a crater of hardened wax in a process called tunneling. You can use a few tricks to troubleshoot tunneling in pillar and poured candles, as well as drippy tapers. Pay close attention to the first burn and adopt habits like regularly trimming the wick, using a snuffer, and avoiding drafts to extend the life of your candles and help them burn evenly.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lighting Candles Properly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Position a candle vertically on a flat, stable surface.\", \"描述\": \"If you place a candle on an uneven surface, the wax will melt in irregular patterns and the flickering flames might give off dark smoke stains. Tapers and pillar candles will drip excessively if they're not totally upright. Most importantly, it's highly unsafe to place a candle on an unstable or angled surface, such as a chair seat or a wobbly table.\\nThe surface should also be fire resistant.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Light candles with a long lighter or long matches.\", \"描述\": \"If you keep the candle level and use a long match or lighter, you'll more easily be able to reach the wick and won't start an uneven burn. Strike a match or engage the lighter, and touch the flame to the wick. As soon as it ignites, remove the lighter or match and extinguish the flame.\\nIf you blow out the match, do this away from the candle flame.\\nWith short lighters and matches, it's sometimes necessary to turn the candle sideways to reach the wick. This will cause some flickering and might unevenly melt the wax, leading to an uneven burn.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep burning candles away from drafts.\", \"描述\": \"Flickering flames might look pretty, but they don't burn candles evenly. Place your candle in a breeze-free location, away from fans, air conditioning units, open windows, passers-by, and any other source of moving air.\\nFlickering flames also leave unattractive smoke stains. These are especially noticeable on glass candle jars.\\nThis is also a safety precaution. Even a gentle breeze might blow a piece of paper or a curtain corner directly into the flame.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trim candle wicks to be ⁄8 to ⁄4 in (0.32 to 0.64 cm) tall before each use.\", \"描述\": \"Long, uncut wicks often take on a mushroom-like shape. This creates a wide, unstable flame that flickers, gives off smoke, and prevents the candle from burning evenly. Combat this by using a wick trimmer or a pair of scissors to chop the top of the wick off, once the wax has completely cool.\\nDiscard all the wick trimmings and make sure there's no ashy residue left sitting on the wax.\\nEven if there's not much height to trim off, you should trim the wick before every single use to get the most stable flame and the most even burn.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Melt the entire top layer of wax during the first burn.\", \"描述\": \"Allow poured and pillar candles to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar. For a pillar candle, snuff out the flame once you notice the wax pool stops widening and start to sink, snuff out the flame. \\nThis might take several hours, depending on the type and size of the candle. A rule of thumb is that it takes about 1 hour per 1 in (2.5 cm) of the candle's diameter.\\nFor example, if your candle's diameter is 4 in (10 cm) you can expect to burn it for 4 hours the first time.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Avoid memory rings by allowing the top layer of wax to melt during each burn.\", \"描述\": \"A candle can “remember” how much wax melted during previous burns. The pool of melted wax will continue to get narrower and narrower if you aren't careful, and you'll end up with tunneling. To prevent this, follow the same process as you did during the initial burn. Monitor the candle during every burn session and allow the entire top layer of wax to melt.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Burn candles for a maximum of 4 hours.\", \"描述\": \"Monitor the candle's progress continually, and snuff out the flame as soon as you notice the wax has pooled all the way across the top level. Anything beyond 4 hours can cause the wax and fragrance oils to ignite.\\nFollow the candle manufacturer's instructions for maximum burn times. Some candles can only withstand shorter burns.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Consider purchasing a multi-wick candle.\", \"描述\": \"It might seem like more wicks would lead to a quicker burn, but in fact, multiple wicks contribute to slower, more even burns. The wicks are spread out evenly and, in poured candles, they're positioned closer to the edges of the jar. This means that that the wax will burn in a nice even layer and tunneling won't likely occur.\\nFor instance, a 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter candle with 3 wicks will burn longer and more evenly than the same sized candle with only 1 wick.\\nIf you discover that the wick is off-center in your 1-wick candle, your chances of an uneven burn are higher. More wicks improve your chances of success.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Extinguishing and Storing Candles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stop burning candles when there's still a little wax left.\", \"描述\": \"Cease burning stand-alone tapers and pillar candles once the wax has burned down to 2 in (5.1 cm). As for poured candles, stop burning these when only ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of wax remains in the jar. Follow this precaution even if there's lots of wax left above the wick due to tunneling.\\nWith less wax left to fuel the flame, a candle can quickly become unstable and hazardous.\\nAfter properly burning a poured candle, you can often reuse the jar. Place it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Pop out the remaining wax using a butter knife and you'll be left with a nice new storage container.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle salt onto an extinguished candle's melted wax.\", \"描述\": \"Salt slows down wax's melting rate, leading to a slower and more even burn. After you've extinguished a pillar candle, poured candle, or votive, sprinkle a dash of iodized table salt onto the pool of melted wax. Mix it thoroughly into the liquid wax using a toothpick. Let the wax cool completely.\\nYou can keep adding salt after subsequent burn sessions to lengthen the life of the candle.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Snuff out a candle's flame instead of blowing it out.\", \"描述\": \"Blowing out a candle actually spreads ashy debris into the melted wax and potentially onto the candle holder. When you're ready to extinguish the flame, hold a candle snuffer directly over the flame and lower it until it's just above the melted pool of wax. Hold it there for 2 or 3 seconds. Once the flame has used up the remaining oxygen under the snuffer, it will go out.\\nIf you don't have a candle snuffer, a large metal spoon will do the trick.\\nIf your candle came with a fireproof lid, such as a glass cover, place this over the lit candle and the flame will extinguish itself. Be aware that the lid might end up with some ashy residue though.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Don't extinguish candle flames with water.\", \"描述\": \"Although fire and water might seem like a logical choice, water is an unsafe candle extinguishing option. The force of even a glass of water will splash hot wax all over the place -- the candle jar or holder, the table, and possibly even the walls and floor. Even worse, the wax is likely to splash out and burn your skin.\\nThis is especially important to avoid with glass candle jars. The hot glass will shatter upon contact with cold water.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Allow the wax to completely cool before moving or reusing a candle.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the candle in place until all the melted wax has cooled and hardened. It is unsafe to pick up a liquefied candle. Plus, you're likely to slosh around the hot wax which will drip down the sides or stick to the edges of the jar.\\nTo extend the life of a candle, don't burn it for more than 1 session every 24 hours.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Store candles\", \"描述\": \"The colder the wax is, the slower it will melt. Place your candle in the freezer a few hours before you plan to burn it and you'll notice a slower, more even burn. Better yet, store your candles in the freezer when they're not in use.\\nNarrow tapers will freeze after just 1 hour. You can place these in the freezer right before you start preparing a dinner party.\\nLarge pillars might take up to 8 hours to completely freeze. Pop these in the freezer the night before, or first thing in the morning in preparation for a candlelit evening.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Protect candles from dust.\", \"描述\": \"Dust will burn up in the flames, causing smoke, crackling, and an uneven burn. Use nylon pantyhose to wipe the dust off of candles. If your poured candle came with a cover, store it with the lid on securely. Otherwise, keep candles in a dust-free drawer or cupboard (or in the freezer). You can easily wrap tapers and pillar candles in tissue paper. Store votives in boxes or plastic baggies.\\nYou should only wipe down, wrap up, or store candles once the wax is completely hardened and cool.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Preventing Tunneling in Poured and Pillar Candles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Melt the top layer of wax completely during the initial burn of a poured candle.\", \"描述\": \"After you light your brand new poured candle, allow it to burn until the top surface of wax has completely melted. Monitor the progress and don't extinguish the flame until there's about a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ring of melted wax spanning the full diameter of the jar.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Burn a pillar candle until a wide pool of melted wax forms during the first burn.\", \"描述\": \"Unlike a poured candle, a pillar doesn't have a container in which the melted wax can pool. But you can follow the same technique to avoid tunneling. Make sure a wide pool of wax forms during the first burn. Once you notice the wax pool stops getting wider and begins to sink lower, snuff out the flame.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Melt the top layer of wax for every subsequent burn.\", \"描述\": \"The initial burn of a pillar and poured candles is crucial to get right, but the work doesn't end there. Follow the same technique each time you burn the candle. The wax should always melt in an even layer, right out to the edges of the jar. It will solidify in a flat, even layer and no tunneling will occur.\\nPoured and pillar candles, especially large ones, need to burn for several hours to achieve an even layer of melted wax. Don't light one if you aren't planning to keep it lit and monitored for a short duration.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fold in the top edges of a pillar candle while the wax is still soft.\", \"描述\": \"Once the flame is extinguished, use your hands to smooth over the top edges of the pillar. Fold them in towards the center so that the hard edges become soft curves leaning inward. During the next burn, these edges will melt away and there won't be any excess wax to create a tunneling effect.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Warm a candle in the oven to soften the tunneling.\", \"描述\": \"Preheat your oven to 175 °F (79 °C) and place your candle jar onto a baking sheet. Put the candle in the oven for about 5 minutes to soften the wax and loosen it up from the edges of the jar. Once it's warm, flatten it into an even layer using a butter knife or metal teaspoon.\\nIf the wick gets covered by the wax, remove the excess. You'll need at least ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) of the wick exposed to get a satisfactory burn.\\nMake sure the candle's jar is oven-safe before following this process.\\nYou can also warm up the wax using a hairdryer on a high heat setting. After about 10 minutes the wax will start to soften up.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wrap aluminum foil around the top of a candle jar to melt away the tunneling.\", \"描述\": \"Light the candle first. Then carefully wrap a cylinder of double-layered aluminum foil about 6 in (15 cm) tall by 12 in (30 cm) wide around the top portion of the candle jar. Leave about 3 in (7.6 cm) extending above the jar and cup in the top edges of foil to form a rounded cover with an opening in the center. Remove the foil wrap after 2 hours and the wax tunneling should be melted.\\nMake sure you monitor your candle while it burns. Just because you can't see the flame doesn't mean it's a potential hazard.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Burn a pillar candle in a hurricane vase.\", \"描述\": \"Select an open-topped glass hurricane vase that your pillar candle can fit inside. The vase should be a few inches taller than the candle. Burn the candle in the hurricane to trap in more heat and more quickly soften and melt the wax for a more even burn.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut away excess tunneling with a butter knife.\", \"描述\": \"When the wax is warm and soft, use a metal butter knife to cut out the hard pieces of wax. Carve out small sections and dislodge them from the sides of the jar. Remove all the excess until you have a relatively smooth, flat top layer of wax, sitting ⁄8 in (0.32 cm) below the top of the wick.\\nYou can do this after warming the candle in the oven, or after a burn session before the wax has completely cooled.\\nTry saving the pieces of wax to warm over a tealight warmer. This way, you'll still get to enjoy the fragrance and won't waste any part of the candle.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Burning Tapers Evenly\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep lit tapers totally upright and away from drafts.\", \"描述\": \"This is necessary for all types of candles, but it is especially important for evenly burning tapers. Only place a taper in a taper holder or candlestick that fits it securely. There should be no wobbling or leaning.\\nYou can melt a few drops of wax into the base of the taper holder to help the candle stay in place. But if there's a fit issue to begin with, you probably won't get the most even burn from the taper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Direct all air flow away from lit tapers.\", \"描述\": \"Again, this is important for any type of candle. But even the slightest air movement can have a noticeable impact on burning tapers. Direct any fans and vents away from the tapers, and keep nearby windows closed. Air movement will disturb the flame and will lead to lopsided tapers dripping with wax.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Opt for “dripless” tapers.\", \"描述\": \"Although the name is a bit of an exaggeration, the wax of a “dripless” candle is designed to cool and harden very quickly. So, even if your candle drips a little, the drips will harden into place. You'll be able to peel them off, or shave them off with a butter knife, once the candle is extinguished.\\nAs a bonus, you can choose paraffin or beeswax candles which tend to have a slower burn time. The slower the burn, the less opportunity for drippage.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Never, under any circumstances, leave burning candles unattended. It's safer to extinguish a candle before all the wax melts than it is to risk a major fire. If you plan to exit and enter the room, snuff out the flame and relight it when you get back.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,711 |
How to Burn Cone Incense
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1. Positioning and Lighting the Cone
1-1. Find a heat-proof container that can hold the incense cone.
The cone will produce a lot of heat, so it's important to find a container, such as an ashtray or ceramic bowl, that can safely contain the warmth. Spread a layer of sand about 1 cm (0.39 in) thick on the bottom of the chosen container to help distribute the heat.
Cone incense often comes with a metal disk that you can burn it on.
Anything that's heat-resistant and will hold the cone is a suitable container.
Make sure you place the container away from anything flammable, such as curtains, lampshades, or paper.
1-2. Place the cone in the container with the point facing up.
Once you've set up the heat-proof container, place the cone right in the middle. The flat, wider part of the cone should be on the bottom with the point facing upwards.
If you filled the container with sand, position the cone evenly on the sand so that it doesn't fall over.
1-3. Use a match or candle to light the tip of the cone.
Either carefully light a match or use a lighter to light the very top of the cone until it has a flame when you take the match or lighter away. You can also use an already-lit candle to get a flame going on the incense.
The flame doesn't need to appear for very long—5-10 seconds is fine.
Avoid using the stove or any kind of strong flame to light the tip of the cone, as you may burn your hands.
1-4. Watch for the tip to take on an orange glow.
Once the large flame disappears, the tip of the incense cone should continue to glow orange. If the tip looks dark when you take the flame away, try to relight it until the tip is orange when left alone.
1-5. Fan the incense cone gently to ensure the flame is completely out.
It's important for the flame to be gone and replaced by the smoldering orange tip to give off the right scent. You can either fan the cone gently with your hands or piece of paper, or you can blow softly near the tip.
1-6. Enjoy your incense for roughly 20-30 minutes.
Your incense will continue to burn from the top of the tip down to the bottom of the cone. If you're going to burn the entire cone, plan on allowing about 30 minutes to burn it.
Be aware that incense cones often give off more smoke than other types of incense.
Your cone incense will burn out on its own once it's completely finished.
2. Troubleshooting Your Cone Incense
2-1. Blow out the flame if it doesn't go out 10 seconds after lighting it.
An incense cone with a solid flame gives off a smokier, less pleasant smell. If you light the incense cone and the flame is still going after 10 seconds, blow it out softly until the tip turns orange.
2-2. Give the incense cone more oxygen if the smoldering tip goes out.
If the orange tip on your incense cone goes out quickly, it may be that the cone isn't getting enough oxygen. If your incense holder has a lid, remove the lid to give the cone more air.
Once you've given the cone access to more oxygen, try relighting the cone if necessary.
2-3. Dry the cone off if it's brand new or oily.
New incense cones can be a little more oily than desired. Use a paper towel to gently blot the incense cone to remove any excess oil or moisture so that the cone will burn well.
2-4. Keep your incense cone away from drafty areas or open windows.
Another reason your incense cone might not stay lit is if it's around too much of a breeze. Light your cone away from windows that are open or other sources of air flow.
Check to make sure there isn't an open air vent near the incense.
Tips
You may need to place something under the incense holder so that it doesn't burn your table surface.
You can put out your cone incense by sticking the tip in the sand.
Store the cone incense in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.
Warnings
Avoid touching the cone when it's burning as it's likely to be very hot.
Keep the incense away from children or pets when it's burning.
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{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Positioning and Lighting the Cone\\n1-1. Find a heat-proof container that can hold the incense cone.\\nThe cone will produce a lot of heat, so it's important to find a container, such as an ashtray or ceramic bowl, that can safely contain the warmth. Spread a layer of sand about 1 cm (0.39 in) thick on the bottom of the chosen container to help distribute the heat.\\nCone incense often comes with a metal disk that you can burn it on.\\nAnything that's heat-resistant and will hold the cone is a suitable container.\\nMake sure you place the container away from anything flammable, such as curtains, lampshades, or paper.\\n1-2. Place the cone in the container with the point facing up.\\nOnce you've set up the heat-proof container, place the cone right in the middle. The flat, wider part of the cone should be on the bottom with the point facing upwards.\\nIf you filled the container with sand, position the cone evenly on the sand so that it doesn't fall over.\\n1-3. Use a match or candle to light the tip of the cone.\\nEither carefully light a match or use a lighter to light the very top of the cone until it has a flame when you take the match or lighter away. You can also use an already-lit candle to get a flame going on the incense.\\nThe flame doesn't need to appear for very long—5-10 seconds is fine.\\nAvoid using the stove or any kind of strong flame to light the tip of the cone, as you may burn your hands.\\n1-4. Watch for the tip to take on an orange glow.\\nOnce the large flame disappears, the tip of the incense cone should continue to glow orange. If the tip looks dark when you take the flame away, try to relight it until the tip is orange when left alone.\\n1-5. Fan the incense cone gently to ensure the flame is completely out.\\nIt's important for the flame to be gone and replaced by the smoldering orange tip to give off the right scent. You can either fan the cone gently with your hands or piece of paper, or you can blow softly near the tip.\\n1-6. Enjoy your incense for roughly 20-30 minutes.\\nYour incense will continue to burn from the top of the tip down to the bottom of the cone. If you're going to burn the entire cone, plan on allowing about 30 minutes to burn it.\\nBe aware that incense cones often give off more smoke than other types of incense.\\nYour cone incense will burn out on its own once it's completely finished.\\n2. Troubleshooting Your Cone Incense\\n2-1. Blow out the flame if it doesn't go out 10 seconds after lighting it.\\nAn incense cone with a solid flame gives off a smokier, less pleasant smell. If you light the incense cone and the flame is still going after 10 seconds, blow it out softly until the tip turns orange.\\n2-2. Give the incense cone more oxygen if the smoldering tip goes out.\\nIf the orange tip on your incense cone goes out quickly, it may be that the cone isn't getting enough oxygen. If your incense holder has a lid, remove the lid to give the cone more air.\\nOnce you've given the cone access to more oxygen, try relighting the cone if necessary.\\n2-3. Dry the cone off if it's brand new or oily.\\nNew incense cones can be a little more oily than desired. Use a paper towel to gently blot the incense cone to remove any excess oil or moisture so that the cone will burn well.\\n2-4. Keep your incense cone away from drafty areas or open windows.\\nAnother reason your incense cone might not stay lit is if it's around too much of a breeze. Light your cone away from windows that are open or other sources of air flow.\\nCheck to make sure there isn't an open air vent near the incense.\\nTips\\nYou may need to place something under the incense holder so that it doesn't burn your table surface.\\nYou can put out your cone incense by sticking the tip in the sand.\\nStore the cone incense in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid touching the cone when it's burning as it's likely to be very hot.\\nKeep the incense away from children or pets when it's burning.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Cone incense gives off a fragrant scent when burned while also producing a lot of smoke. To start burning your incense, place the cone in a heat-proof container and light the tip of the cone so it produces a flame. Once the tip of the cone has an orange glow to it, your incense is ready to be enjoyed.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Positioning and Lighting the Cone\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a heat-proof container that can hold the incense cone.\", \"描述\": \"The cone will produce a lot of heat, so it's important to find a container, such as an ashtray or ceramic bowl, that can safely contain the warmth. Spread a layer of sand about 1 cm (0.39 in) thick on the bottom of the chosen container to help distribute the heat.\\nCone incense often comes with a metal disk that you can burn it on.\\nAnything that's heat-resistant and will hold the cone is a suitable container.\\nMake sure you place the container away from anything flammable, such as curtains, lampshades, or paper.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the cone in the container with the point facing up.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've set up the heat-proof container, place the cone right in the middle. The flat, wider part of the cone should be on the bottom with the point facing upwards.\\nIf you filled the container with sand, position the cone evenly on the sand so that it doesn't fall over.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a match or candle to light the tip of the cone.\", \"描述\": \"Either carefully light a match or use a lighter to light the very top of the cone until it has a flame when you take the match or lighter away. You can also use an already-lit candle to get a flame going on the incense.\\nThe flame doesn't need to appear for very long—5-10 seconds is fine.\\nAvoid using the stove or any kind of strong flame to light the tip of the cone, as you may burn your hands.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Watch for the tip to take on an orange glow.\", \"描述\": \"Once the large flame disappears, the tip of the incense cone should continue to glow orange. If the tip looks dark when you take the flame away, try to relight it until the tip is orange when left alone.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fan the incense cone gently to ensure the flame is completely out.\", \"描述\": \"It's important for the flame to be gone and replaced by the smoldering orange tip to give off the right scent. You can either fan the cone gently with your hands or piece of paper, or you can blow softly near the tip.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Enjoy your incense for roughly 20-30 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Your incense will continue to burn from the top of the tip down to the bottom of the cone. If you're going to burn the entire cone, plan on allowing about 30 minutes to burn it.\\nBe aware that incense cones often give off more smoke than other types of incense.\\nYour cone incense will burn out on its own once it's completely finished.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Troubleshooting Your Cone Incense\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Blow out the flame if it doesn't go out 10 seconds after lighting it.\", \"描述\": \"An incense cone with a solid flame gives off a smokier, less pleasant smell. If you light the incense cone and the flame is still going after 10 seconds, blow it out softly until the tip turns orange.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give the incense cone more oxygen if the smoldering tip goes out.\", \"描述\": \"If the orange tip on your incense cone goes out quickly, it may be that the cone isn't getting enough oxygen. If your incense holder has a lid, remove the lid to give the cone more air.\\nOnce you've given the cone access to more oxygen, try relighting the cone if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dry the cone off if it's brand new or oily.\", \"描述\": \"New incense cones can be a little more oily than desired. Use a paper towel to gently blot the incense cone to remove any excess oil or moisture so that the cone will burn well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep your incense cone away from drafty areas or open windows.\", \"描述\": \"Another reason your incense cone might not stay lit is if it's around too much of a breeze. Light your cone away from windows that are open or other sources of air flow.\\nCheck to make sure there isn't an open air vent near the incense.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You may need to place something under the incense holder so that it doesn't burn your table surface.\\n\", \"You can put out your cone incense by sticking the tip in the sand.\\n\", \"Store the cone incense in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid touching the cone when it's burning as it's likely to be very hot.\\n\", \"Keep the incense away from children or pets when it's burning.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,712 |
How to Burn Copal
|
1. Burning Copal on a Charcoal Disc
1-1. Buy charcoal discs.
Charcoal discs are little round tablets that you can buy at incense stores. You can also find them at Asian markets or online. Typically, they come in a tube-like pack.
Charcoal discs make it easy to burn your copal resin.
1-2. Set up a safe area to burn your charcoal and copal.
The whole charcoal disc will get hot, so you need a heat-safe plate or bowl underneath it. You can also use a stone or a small stone slate. Keep tongs or a metal spoon and some water nearby just in case.
Some people put sand in a bowl to sink the disc into.
1-3. Light the charcoal disc.
It's best to hold the charcoal with tongs if you can. If not, just hold it by one edge and light the other side. Use a match or lighter to catch the edge on fire. You should see a light spark. Set it down on the heat-safe surface.
You can also use a burner to catch the charcoal on fire.
1-4. Wait for the charcoal to turn white.
The charcoal will be black when you set it on fire. Leave it to burn for 5 to 10 minutes, and it will turn white and ashy all over. Don't touch the disc with your fingers at this point!
At this point, some people pour a small pile of salt in the indention on top of the disc. The salt acts as a buffer between the heat of the charcoal and the resin, so it doesn't burn quite as hot. You won't get as much smoke this way, but you can experiment to see what works best for you.
1-5. Set a small piece of copal resin in the indention in the top of the disc.
A peanut-sized piece of copal is a good size to begin with. You can always add more later if the charcoal hasn't burned out.
This method of burning copal will produce a lot of smoke, so you can use it for smudging your house. However, if you get too much smoke, use tongs or a spoon to knock the resin off for a while.
1-6. Extinguish the charcoal with water when you're finished burning your copal.
Don't leave a burning charcoal disc unattended, as accidents can happen, catching other things on fire. Pour water on the charcoal to make sure it's completely out.
The charcoal disc will stay hot for at least an hour.
It can be messy, so try extinguishing it in the kitchen sink.
2. Burning Copal without Charcoal
2-1. Try a resin burner for ease of use.
Put a small amount of copal into the cup of the resin burner. Next, find a socket for the plug and connect it to an electrical outlet. If the burner has a temperature setting, turn it to 235 °F (113 °C), and place the lid on top. Let the burner heat the resin. Watch out, though, as the lid will get very warm, so use tongs to move it once the burner gets hot.
If your chunks are too large to heat easily, crush them a bit with a mortar and pestle.
To keep the bowl inside clean, try adding a foil cup before putting in the resin.
2-2. Place the resin on an electric stove burner for a quick way to burn copal.
Put down a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. You may even want to double up the foil. Turn the stove burner on to medium-high, and then set a piece of resin on the foil. Make sure to keep an eye on it the whole time it's burning.
If the copal is burning too hot for your liking, turn the burner down.
2-3. Use a pan to burn the copal on your stove for another quick solution.
Pick a small pan that you don't mind dedicating to resin burning, though you can line it with foil if you'd like. Turn the stove burner to medium-high, and put the pan on top. Set a small amount of copal resin in the pan, and let it start burning. Leave it on until the copal burns out. You can always add more copal as needed.
Don't use a pan that has a nonstick coating, as those can put off chemicals if you don't have much in them.
2-4. Use an oil warmer for less smoke.
Place a small piece of resin in the top of the oil warmer. Turn the warmer on, or if it has a candle instead, light the candle and set it underneath the warmer. Let the resin warm up, and it will produce fragrance.
These warmers can be electric or have a small candle underneath, and they're typically used for aromatherapy oils.
Because you're not burning the copal directly, you won't get much smoke. However, you can warm the same resin over several days. Just leave it in the warmer to cool, then turn the warmer back on when you want to heat it up again.
2-5. Place a copal resin incense stick in a holder or sand.
Sometimes, copal is formed around a stick. In that case, light the bigger end. Set the smaller end in a bowl filled with sand or in an incense holder built for stick incense.
Don't leave stick incense unattended.
3. Enjoying the Benefits of Burning Copal
3-1. Use copal before meditation to provide peace of mind.
Many people burn copal before they meditate or while meditating. They believe that it assists with removing negative energy from your mind, body, and space.
3-2. Smudge a space with copal smoke to clear bad energy.
Some people also use copal to "smudge" an area, meaning to cleanse it of negative energy. To smudge an area, use a high-smoke method of burning your copal, and let the smoke fill up the room.
You can lightly fan the smoke around the room with a feather or hand fan. Try to get it in every area of the room.
3-3. Try burning copal for inflammation problems.
Traditionally, people burned copal to help with inflammatory ailments, such as arthritis and even toothaches. While it still needs to be studied more, it does contain compounds that reduce inflammation in mice, so it may be helpful to you to burn it for this purpose.
Try burning copal once a day and stay nearby so you can inhale the scent.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Burning Copal on a Charcoal Disc\\n1-1. Buy charcoal discs.\\nCharcoal discs are little round tablets that you can buy at incense stores. You can also find them at Asian markets or online. Typically, they come in a tube-like pack.\\nCharcoal discs make it easy to burn your copal resin.\\n1-2. Set up a safe area to burn your charcoal and copal.\\nThe whole charcoal disc will get hot, so you need a heat-safe plate or bowl underneath it. You can also use a stone or a small stone slate. Keep tongs or a metal spoon and some water nearby just in case.\\nSome people put sand in a bowl to sink the disc into.\\n1-3. Light the charcoal disc.\\nIt's best to hold the charcoal with tongs if you can. If not, just hold it by one edge and light the other side. Use a match or lighter to catch the edge on fire. You should see a light spark. Set it down on the heat-safe surface.\\nYou can also use a burner to catch the charcoal on fire.\\n1-4. Wait for the charcoal to turn white.\\nThe charcoal will be black when you set it on fire. Leave it to burn for 5 to 10 minutes, and it will turn white and ashy all over. Don't touch the disc with your fingers at this point!\\nAt this point, some people pour a small pile of salt in the indention on top of the disc. The salt acts as a buffer between the heat of the charcoal and the resin, so it doesn't burn quite as hot. You won't get as much smoke this way, but you can experiment to see what works best for you.\\n1-5. Set a small piece of copal resin in the indention in the top of the disc.\\nA peanut-sized piece of copal is a good size to begin with. You can always add more later if the charcoal hasn't burned out.\\nThis method of burning copal will produce a lot of smoke, so you can use it for smudging your house. However, if you get too much smoke, use tongs or a spoon to knock the resin off for a while.\\n1-6. Extinguish the charcoal with water when you're finished burning your copal.\\nDon't leave a burning charcoal disc unattended, as accidents can happen, catching other things on fire. Pour water on the charcoal to make sure it's completely out.\\nThe charcoal disc will stay hot for at least an hour.\\nIt can be messy, so try extinguishing it in the kitchen sink.\\n2. Burning Copal without Charcoal\\n2-1. Try a resin burner for ease of use.\\nPut a small amount of copal into the cup of the resin burner. Next, find a socket for the plug and connect it to an electrical outlet. If the burner has a temperature setting, turn it to 235 °F (113 °C), and place the lid on top. Let the burner heat the resin. Watch out, though, as the lid will get very warm, so use tongs to move it once the burner gets hot.\\nIf your chunks are too large to heat easily, crush them a bit with a mortar and pestle.\\nTo keep the bowl inside clean, try adding a foil cup before putting in the resin.\\n2-2. Place the resin on an electric stove burner for a quick way to burn copal.\\nPut down a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. You may even want to double up the foil. Turn the stove burner on to medium-high, and then set a piece of resin on the foil. Make sure to keep an eye on it the whole time it's burning.\\nIf the copal is burning too hot for your liking, turn the burner down.\\n2-3. Use a pan to burn the copal on your stove for another quick solution.\\nPick a small pan that you don't mind dedicating to resin burning, though you can line it with foil if you'd like. Turn the stove burner to medium-high, and put the pan on top. Set a small amount of copal resin in the pan, and let it start burning. Leave it on until the copal burns out. You can always add more copal as needed.\\nDon't use a pan that has a nonstick coating, as those can put off chemicals if you don't have much in them.\\n2-4. Use an oil warmer for less smoke.\\nPlace a small piece of resin in the top of the oil warmer. Turn the warmer on, or if it has a candle instead, light the candle and set it underneath the warmer. Let the resin warm up, and it will produce fragrance.\\nThese warmers can be electric or have a small candle underneath, and they're typically used for aromatherapy oils.\\nBecause you're not burning the copal directly, you won't get much smoke. However, you can warm the same resin over several days. Just leave it in the warmer to cool, then turn the warmer back on when you want to heat it up again.\\n2-5. Place a copal resin incense stick in a holder or sand.\\nSometimes, copal is formed around a stick. In that case, light the bigger end. Set the smaller end in a bowl filled with sand or in an incense holder built for stick incense.\\nDon't leave stick incense unattended.\\n3. Enjoying the Benefits of Burning Copal\\n3-1. Use copal before meditation to provide peace of mind.\\nMany people burn copal before they meditate or while meditating. They believe that it assists with removing negative energy from your mind, body, and space.\\n3-2. Smudge a space with copal smoke to clear bad energy.\\nSome people also use copal to \\\"smudge\\\" an area, meaning to cleanse it of negative energy. To smudge an area, use a high-smoke method of burning your copal, and let the smoke fill up the room.\\nYou can lightly fan the smoke around the room with a feather or hand fan. Try to get it in every area of the room.\\n3-3. Try burning copal for inflammation problems.\\nTraditionally, people burned copal to help with inflammatory ailments, such as arthritis and even toothaches. While it still needs to be studied more, it does contain compounds that reduce inflammation in mice, so it may be helpful to you to burn it for this purpose.\\nTry burning copal once a day and stay nearby so you can inhale the scent.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Copal is a resin from Buresa trees, typically found in Mexico, as well as Central and South America. The Mayan people have burned this resin for thousands of years for spiritual and health reasons. In your own home, try burning copal resin on a charcoal disc or use a number of other methods, such as an incense burner or a pan on your stove.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Burning Copal on a Charcoal Disc\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy charcoal discs.\", \"描述\": \"Charcoal discs are little round tablets that you can buy at incense stores. You can also find them at Asian markets or online. Typically, they come in a tube-like pack.\\nCharcoal discs make it easy to burn your copal resin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up a safe area to burn your charcoal and copal.\", \"描述\": \"The whole charcoal disc will get hot, so you need a heat-safe plate or bowl underneath it. You can also use a stone or a small stone slate. Keep tongs or a metal spoon and some water nearby just in case.\\nSome people put sand in a bowl to sink the disc into.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Light the charcoal disc.\", \"描述\": \"It's best to hold the charcoal with tongs if you can. If not, just hold it by one edge and light the other side. Use a match or lighter to catch the edge on fire. You should see a light spark. Set it down on the heat-safe surface.\\nYou can also use a burner to catch the charcoal on fire.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Wait for the charcoal to turn white.\", \"描述\": \"The charcoal will be black when you set it on fire. Leave it to burn for 5 to 10 minutes, and it will turn white and ashy all over. Don't touch the disc with your fingers at this point!\\nAt this point, some people pour a small pile of salt in the indention on top of the disc. The salt acts as a buffer between the heat of the charcoal and the resin, so it doesn't burn quite as hot. You won't get as much smoke this way, but you can experiment to see what works best for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Set a small piece of copal resin in the indention in the top of the disc.\", \"描述\": \"A peanut-sized piece of copal is a good size to begin with. You can always add more later if the charcoal hasn't burned out.\\nThis method of burning copal will produce a lot of smoke, so you can use it for smudging your house. However, if you get too much smoke, use tongs or a spoon to knock the resin off for a while.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Extinguish the charcoal with water when you're finished burning your copal.\", \"描述\": \"Don't leave a burning charcoal disc unattended, as accidents can happen, catching other things on fire. Pour water on the charcoal to make sure it's completely out.\\nThe charcoal disc will stay hot for at least an hour.\\nIt can be messy, so try extinguishing it in the kitchen sink.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Burning Copal without Charcoal\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try a resin burner for ease of use.\", \"描述\": \"Put a small amount of copal into the cup of the resin burner. Next, find a socket for the plug and connect it to an electrical outlet. If the burner has a temperature setting, turn it to 235 °F (113 °C), and place the lid on top. Let the burner heat the resin. Watch out, though, as the lid will get very warm, so use tongs to move it once the burner gets hot.\\nIf your chunks are too large to heat easily, crush them a bit with a mortar and pestle.\\nTo keep the bowl inside clean, try adding a foil cup before putting in the resin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the resin on an electric stove burner for a quick way to burn copal.\", \"描述\": \"Put down a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. You may even want to double up the foil. Turn the stove burner on to medium-high, and then set a piece of resin on the foil. Make sure to keep an eye on it the whole time it's burning.\\nIf the copal is burning too hot for your liking, turn the burner down.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a pan to burn the copal on your stove for another quick solution.\", \"描述\": \"Pick a small pan that you don't mind dedicating to resin burning, though you can line it with foil if you'd like. Turn the stove burner to medium-high, and put the pan on top. Set a small amount of copal resin in the pan, and let it start burning. Leave it on until the copal burns out. You can always add more copal as needed.\\nDon't use a pan that has a nonstick coating, as those can put off chemicals if you don't have much in them.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use an oil warmer for less smoke.\", \"描述\": \"Place a small piece of resin in the top of the oil warmer. Turn the warmer on, or if it has a candle instead, light the candle and set it underneath the warmer. Let the resin warm up, and it will produce fragrance.\\nThese warmers can be electric or have a small candle underneath, and they're typically used for aromatherapy oils.\\nBecause you're not burning the copal directly, you won't get much smoke. However, you can warm the same resin over several days. Just leave it in the warmer to cool, then turn the warmer back on when you want to heat it up again.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place a copal resin incense stick in a holder or sand.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes, copal is formed around a stick. In that case, light the bigger end. Set the smaller end in a bowl filled with sand or in an incense holder built for stick incense.\\nDon't leave stick incense unattended.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Enjoying the Benefits of Burning Copal\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use copal before meditation to provide peace of mind.\", \"描述\": \"Many people burn copal before they meditate or while meditating. They believe that it assists with removing negative energy from your mind, body, and space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Smudge a space with copal smoke to clear bad energy.\", \"描述\": \"Some people also use copal to \\\"smudge\\\" an area, meaning to cleanse it of negative energy. To smudge an area, use a high-smoke method of burning your copal, and let the smoke fill up the room.\\nYou can lightly fan the smoke around the room with a feather or hand fan. Try to get it in every area of the room.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try burning copal for inflammation problems.\", \"描述\": \"Traditionally, people burned copal to help with inflammatory ailments, such as arthritis and even toothaches. While it still needs to be studied more, it does contain compounds that reduce inflammation in mice, so it may be helpful to you to burn it for this purpose.\\nTry burning copal once a day and stay nearby so you can inhale the scent.\"}]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,713 |
How to Burn Essential Oil
|
1. Selecting Your Oils
1-1. Select oils
Research the brands you see in stores and online and read reviews. Look for an oil with 100% purity. Don’t use an oil that is mixed or altered with something else.
Don’t confuse essential oils with fragrance oils. Essential oils are extracted directly from plant materials.
Essential oils are not really oils. They are highly concentrated aromatic compounds extracted from plants. This makes them unique from fragrance oils, which are created specifically to smell good.
Essential oils should come in dark tinted bottles as exposure to light can degrade their chemical structures.
Look for the Latin names of the plants on the bottles as this will let you know exactly what you are getting.
Check the scent of the oil. If it doesn’t smell good or it differs from what you expected, it may not be a high-quality preparation.
1-2. Choose scents like lavender to help you relax.
If you’re dealing with stress then lavender, chamomile, sandalwood or rose oils may be calming options for some people. Try combining different oils to create your own personalized scent profile.
Read up on any scent you choose so that you are informed of possible risks. Cinnamon bark, for example, has been shown to cause allergic reactions in people who have seasonal allergies.
1-3. Scents like rosemary may improve focus and concentration.
There are some essential oils that people associate with a calmer and more focused mind. These are great for when you are working under a deadline or are simply struggling to get your mind in order. Rosemary oil is a nice option for these situations.
Cedarwood, lemon oil, grapefruit, wild orange, and lavender are also good options. Try them out to see which ones you prefer or use a blend that you enjoy.
1-4. Try a stimulating scent like peppermint to reduce fatigue.
Peppermint is a naturally refreshing scent that may help increase alertness and get your mind moving. Other oils that you may find stimulating are eucalyptus, basil, bergamot, or good old rosemary.
1-5. Select oils that smell good to you.
Some essential oils may have therapeutic value but may not smell all that great. Tea tree oil, for example, has antimicrobial properties, but it has a very woodsy smell that you may not want in your home. Other oils, like peppermint, for example, will smell nice in addition to any aromatherapy effects you might experience.
Try adding a few drops of an oil that smells good, like lavender, to your preparation to improve the overall effect.
Rose essential oil is associated with reducing stress and anxiety.
Patchouli essential oil is another fragrance many people find pleasant. Like tea tree oil, it may have some antimicrobial and antifungal effects.
1-6. Visit an aromatherapist for advice.
While aromatherapists are not accredited health professionals and cannot treat or offer medical advice, they can help suggest essential oils or blends you might be interested in trying out.
Don't do business with aromatherapists who claim to be able to cure health conditions or charge large amounts of money.
Always exercise caution when evaluating health claims about essential oils, because there is currently little evidence for their effectiveness.
The vast majority of essential oils are not very expensive and should not cost a fortune.
2. Using a Traditional Oil Burner
2-1. Choose a traditional candle burner for its simplicity.
Traditional oil burners are two-tiered ceramic pieces made up of a small bowl-shaped top where you put your oil, and a bottom section where you place a small, tea-light candle.
Oil burners of this type are inexpensive, easy to find in stores or online from retailers that sell home goods or health and beauty supplies. You can even find these in some grocery stores.
Look for a burner that has a deep bowl so the contents won’t evaporate too quickly.
2-2. Fill the ceramic bowl on the top of your burner with water.
Pour water slowly into the top, carefully filling the bowl until it is just below the edge. Some burners have an inner lip, which is a good indicator to use when you’re filling the bowl.
Using regular tap water is fine, but if you have high mineral levels in your water you may prefer to use distilled water to minimize the build-up of residue.
2-3. Add 10 drops of your essential oils to the water.
Using either a medicine dropper or the applicator/dispenser that came with your oil, add 10 drops of your oil to the water.
If you’re mixing oils, keep the total number of drops to 10 or less as you don’t want to overdo it. You can always add more later if you think the aroma is not strong enough.
Experiment to find the concentration of oil to water that you like best.
2-4. Insert and light your tea light.
A tea light candle is a small candle encased in a foil shell so that when it burns, the wax is contained. Carefully light the candle and place it in the bottom of the burner.
Oil is flammable, so keep your oil bottles away from the flame.
Never leave an open flame unattended and keep the burner out of reach of pets and children.
2-5. Limit the time you burn oils to 30-60 minutes.
Because there can be negative effects to breathing essential oils constantly, it is best to keep diffusing sessions within the 30-60 minute range. You can alternate with 30-60 minutes on, and 30-60 minutes off.
2-6. Wash your burner in between uses to prevent residue build-up.
Wipe out the bowl of your burner with a tissue dampened with rubbing alcohol. This will remove oil residue, leaving your burner fresh and scent-free for the next time you want to use it. If left unwashed, your burner will soak up the essential oil residues that are left behind.
Built-up residue contributes to an accumulation of scents that will ultimately make the burner unusable for different oils.
Leaving your burner unwashed may also result in an unpleasant burnt smell when you use it.
3. Using an Electric Oil Burner
3-1. Look for a ceramic burner that uses a low heat.
A burner that uses a small lightbulb as a heating element can be a good option, as the warmer will only get as hot as the lightbulb allows. Other models involve sitting a ceramic bowl on top of a heating element, sometimes referred to as a candle warmer or wax warmer.
Electric burners eliminate the need for an open flame, but electrical hazards can still cause fire risks and the heating element can cause burns. Operate these with care and never leave them unattended.
Avoid using an extension cord as this increases the risk of fire. Choose a burner that has a cord that is long enough to reach your outlet.
Do not place more than three electrical appliances into any one outlet at a time. It’s also a good idea to unplug your burner when it’s not in use.
3-2. Prepare your oil just as you would with a traditional burner.
Electrical burners really only differ from traditional models in how they heat the oils. The rest of the process looks the same.
Fill the ceramic bowl with water, using distilled if your tap water has a high mineral content.
Add approximately 10 drops of your essential oils.
3-3. Turn on your burner by plugging it in.
Instead of lighting a candle, your electric burner will need to be plugged into a working electrical socket. Some burner models may also have an “off/on” switch somewhere on their cord. Check to see if this is the case and make sure you turn it to the on position.
Don’t burn your oils for more than an hour or so at a time. Cycle between periods of burning and not burning so that you don’t overwhelm your space with too much oil.
3-4. Keep your burner clean in between uses.
Wash out the bowl of your burner in between aromatherapy sessions to avoid the build-up of residues. Use a tissue or cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol to wipe out the bowl.
Turn off and unplug your burner before cleaning it. Leave it to cool for 15-20 minutes after turning it off before you attempt to clean it as it could cause burns.
To remove built-up residue that you missed, try a mixture of 2-3 drops of lemon essential oil, 2 tablespoons (28.8 g) of baking soda and ½ tablespoon (7.5 mL) of water. Spread this over the affected area and let it sit for 5 minutes before wiping clean with a sponge.
4. Burning an Essential Oil Candle
4-1. Buy clean-burning essential oil candles to prevent indoor air pollution.
Whether you’re shopping in a store or online, look for candles that are made with pure essential oils (not just fragrance). Also select candles that are made from beeswax or soybeans, not paraffin (a petroleum byproduct). Also check for a “lead-free” label when you purchase candles.
Look for cotton wicks when you are shopping for candles.
Keep your wicks trimmed to ⁄8 in (0.32 cm). This lessens the amount of soot the candle produces while it’s burning.
4-2. Make your own essential oil tea lights.
This process involves hot wax, so proceed with caution. Light a tea light candle and allow the wax to melt. Extinguish the flame and then add 3-5 drops of your essential oils into the wax. Stir with a toothpick and allow the wax to cool and harden again.
Experiment with the concentration of essential oil in your DIY candles until you get the result you want.
4-3. Burn your candles long enough for it to melt all the way across.
Whether you are using a store-bought or homemade candle, you want to burn it long enough for the entire top layer of wax to melt. This will ensure that your candle burns evenly and will last as long as possible.
Look for candles with multiple wicks. This will help speed up the melting process, diffusing oils more quickly and efficiently.
Just like with oil burners, don’t burn your candles all day long, every day as this can have negative health effects.
Burn until the wax is evenly melted, then take a break. The exact times will vary based on the size of your candle.
Warnings
Just because essential oils are natural, doesn’t mean they are safe. They are highly concentrated and can be dangerous if not used properly.[36]
X
Research source
Never burn essential oil without diluting it.
Keep children and pets away from essential oils.[37]
X
Research source
If a child or pet ingests the oil, develops a rash, has difficulty breathing, or gets the oil in their eyes, you should seek immediate medical assistance.[38]
X
Research source
If you get the oil on your skin, immediately wash the area with soap and water.[39]
X
Research source
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting Your Oils\\n1-1. Select oils\\nResearch the brands you see in stores and online and read reviews. Look for an oil with 100% purity. Don’t use an oil that is mixed or altered with something else.\\nDon’t confuse essential oils with fragrance oils. Essential oils are extracted directly from plant materials.\\nEssential oils are not really oils. They are highly concentrated aromatic compounds extracted from plants. This makes them unique from fragrance oils, which are created specifically to smell good.\\nEssential oils should come in dark tinted bottles as exposure to light can degrade their chemical structures.\\nLook for the Latin names of the plants on the bottles as this will let you know exactly what you are getting.\\nCheck the scent of the oil. If it doesn’t smell good or it differs from what you expected, it may not be a high-quality preparation.\\n1-2. Choose scents like lavender to help you relax.\\nIf you’re dealing with stress then lavender, chamomile, sandalwood or rose oils may be calming options for some people. Try combining different oils to create your own personalized scent profile.\\nRead up on any scent you choose so that you are informed of possible risks. Cinnamon bark, for example, has been shown to cause allergic reactions in people who have seasonal allergies.\\n1-3. Scents like rosemary may improve focus and concentration.\\nThere are some essential oils that people associate with a calmer and more focused mind. These are great for when you are working under a deadline or are simply struggling to get your mind in order. Rosemary oil is a nice option for these situations.\\nCedarwood, lemon oil, grapefruit, wild orange, and lavender are also good options. Try them out to see which ones you prefer or use a blend that you enjoy.\\n1-4. Try a stimulating scent like peppermint to reduce fatigue.\\nPeppermint is a naturally refreshing scent that may help increase alertness and get your mind moving. Other oils that you may find stimulating are eucalyptus, basil, bergamot, or good old rosemary.\\n1-5. Select oils that smell good to you.\\nSome essential oils may have therapeutic value but may not smell all that great. Tea tree oil, for example, has antimicrobial properties, but it has a very woodsy smell that you may not want in your home. Other oils, like peppermint, for example, will smell nice in addition to any aromatherapy effects you might experience.\\n\\nTry adding a few drops of an oil that smells good, like lavender, to your preparation to improve the overall effect.\\nRose essential oil is associated with reducing stress and anxiety.\\nPatchouli essential oil is another fragrance many people find pleasant. Like tea tree oil, it may have some antimicrobial and antifungal effects.\\n1-6. Visit an aromatherapist for advice.\\nWhile aromatherapists are not accredited health professionals and cannot treat or offer medical advice, they can help suggest essential oils or blends you might be interested in trying out.\\nDon't do business with aromatherapists who claim to be able to cure health conditions or charge large amounts of money.\\nAlways exercise caution when evaluating health claims about essential oils, because there is currently little evidence for their effectiveness.\\nThe vast majority of essential oils are not very expensive and should not cost a fortune.\\n2. Using a Traditional Oil Burner\\n2-1. Choose a traditional candle burner for its simplicity.\\nTraditional oil burners are two-tiered ceramic pieces made up of a small bowl-shaped top where you put your oil, and a bottom section where you place a small, tea-light candle.\\nOil burners of this type are inexpensive, easy to find in stores or online from retailers that sell home goods or health and beauty supplies. You can even find these in some grocery stores.\\nLook for a burner that has a deep bowl so the contents won’t evaporate too quickly.\\n2-2. Fill the ceramic bowl on the top of your burner with water.\\nPour water slowly into the top, carefully filling the bowl until it is just below the edge. Some burners have an inner lip, which is a good indicator to use when you’re filling the bowl.\\nUsing regular tap water is fine, but if you have high mineral levels in your water you may prefer to use distilled water to minimize the build-up of residue.\\n2-3. Add 10 drops of your essential oils to the water.\\nUsing either a medicine dropper or the applicator/dispenser that came with your oil, add 10 drops of your oil to the water.\\nIf you’re mixing oils, keep the total number of drops to 10 or less as you don’t want to overdo it. You can always add more later if you think the aroma is not strong enough.\\nExperiment to find the concentration of oil to water that you like best.\\n2-4. Insert and light your tea light.\\nA tea light candle is a small candle encased in a foil shell so that when it burns, the wax is contained. Carefully light the candle and place it in the bottom of the burner.\\nOil is flammable, so keep your oil bottles away from the flame.\\nNever leave an open flame unattended and keep the burner out of reach of pets and children.\\n2-5. Limit the time you burn oils to 30-60 minutes.\\nBecause there can be negative effects to breathing essential oils constantly, it is best to keep diffusing sessions within the 30-60 minute range. You can alternate with 30-60 minutes on, and 30-60 minutes off.\\n2-6. Wash your burner in between uses to prevent residue build-up.\\nWipe out the bowl of your burner with a tissue dampened with rubbing alcohol. This will remove oil residue, leaving your burner fresh and scent-free for the next time you want to use it. If left unwashed, your burner will soak up the essential oil residues that are left behind. \\nBuilt-up residue contributes to an accumulation of scents that will ultimately make the burner unusable for different oils.\\nLeaving your burner unwashed may also result in an unpleasant burnt smell when you use it.\\n3. Using an Electric Oil Burner\\n3-1. Look for a ceramic burner that uses a low heat.\\nA burner that uses a small lightbulb as a heating element can be a good option, as the warmer will only get as hot as the lightbulb allows. Other models involve sitting a ceramic bowl on top of a heating element, sometimes referred to as a candle warmer or wax warmer.\\nElectric burners eliminate the need for an open flame, but electrical hazards can still cause fire risks and the heating element can cause burns. Operate these with care and never leave them unattended.\\nAvoid using an extension cord as this increases the risk of fire. Choose a burner that has a cord that is long enough to reach your outlet.\\nDo not place more than three electrical appliances into any one outlet at a time. It’s also a good idea to unplug your burner when it’s not in use.\\n3-2. Prepare your oil just as you would with a traditional burner.\\nElectrical burners really only differ from traditional models in how they heat the oils. The rest of the process looks the same.\\nFill the ceramic bowl with water, using distilled if your tap water has a high mineral content.\\nAdd approximately 10 drops of your essential oils.\\n3-3. Turn on your burner by plugging it in.\\nInstead of lighting a candle, your electric burner will need to be plugged into a working electrical socket. Some burner models may also have an “off/on” switch somewhere on their cord. Check to see if this is the case and make sure you turn it to the on position.\\nDon’t burn your oils for more than an hour or so at a time. Cycle between periods of burning and not burning so that you don’t overwhelm your space with too much oil.\\n3-4. Keep your burner clean in between uses.\\nWash out the bowl of your burner in between aromatherapy sessions to avoid the build-up of residues. Use a tissue or cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol to wipe out the bowl.\\nTurn off and unplug your burner before cleaning it. Leave it to cool for 15-20 minutes after turning it off before you attempt to clean it as it could cause burns.\\nTo remove built-up residue that you missed, try a mixture of 2-3 drops of lemon essential oil, 2 tablespoons (28.8 g) of baking soda and ½ tablespoon (7.5 mL) of water. Spread this over the affected area and let it sit for 5 minutes before wiping clean with a sponge.\\n4. Burning an Essential Oil Candle\\n4-1. Buy clean-burning essential oil candles to prevent indoor air pollution.\\nWhether you’re shopping in a store or online, look for candles that are made with pure essential oils (not just fragrance). Also select candles that are made from beeswax or soybeans, not paraffin (a petroleum byproduct). Also check for a “lead-free” label when you purchase candles.\\nLook for cotton wicks when you are shopping for candles.\\nKeep your wicks trimmed to ⁄8 in (0.32 cm). This lessens the amount of soot the candle produces while it’s burning.\\n4-2. Make your own essential oil tea lights.\\nThis process involves hot wax, so proceed with caution. Light a tea light candle and allow the wax to melt. Extinguish the flame and then add 3-5 drops of your essential oils into the wax. Stir with a toothpick and allow the wax to cool and harden again.\\nExperiment with the concentration of essential oil in your DIY candles until you get the result you want.\\n4-3. Burn your candles long enough for it to melt all the way across.\\nWhether you are using a store-bought or homemade candle, you want to burn it long enough for the entire top layer of wax to melt. This will ensure that your candle burns evenly and will last as long as possible.\\nLook for candles with multiple wicks. This will help speed up the melting process, diffusing oils more quickly and efficiently.\\nJust like with oil burners, don’t burn your candles all day long, every day as this can have negative health effects.\\nBurn until the wax is evenly melted, then take a break. The exact times will vary based on the size of your candle.\\nWarnings\\nJust because essential oils are natural, doesn’t mean they are safe. They are highly concentrated and can be dangerous if not used properly.[36]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nNever burn essential oil without diluting it.\\nKeep children and pets away from essential oils.[37]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n If a child or pet ingests the oil, develops a rash, has difficulty breathing, or gets the oil in their eyes, you should seek immediate medical assistance.[38]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIf you get the oil on your skin, immediately wash the area with soap and water.[39]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Burning essential oils is a low-tech and inexpensive way to add beautiful aromas to your home. However, these powerful substances must be used with care and caution. Some people feel stimulated or relaxed when they breathe certain essential oil aromas. If used properly and safely, burning essential oils can help you create an aromatic and therapeutic environment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting Your Oils\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select oils\", \"描述\": \"Research the brands you see in stores and online and read reviews. Look for an oil with 100% purity. Don’t use an oil that is mixed or altered with something else.\\nDon’t confuse essential oils with fragrance oils. Essential oils are extracted directly from plant materials.\\nEssential oils are not really oils. They are highly concentrated aromatic compounds extracted from plants. This makes them unique from fragrance oils, which are created specifically to smell good.\\nEssential oils should come in dark tinted bottles as exposure to light can degrade their chemical structures.\\nLook for the Latin names of the plants on the bottles as this will let you know exactly what you are getting.\\nCheck the scent of the oil. If it doesn’t smell good or it differs from what you expected, it may not be a high-quality preparation.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose scents like lavender to help you relax.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re dealing with stress then lavender, chamomile, sandalwood or rose oils may be calming options for some people. Try combining different oils to create your own personalized scent profile.\\nRead up on any scent you choose so that you are informed of possible risks. Cinnamon bark, for example, has been shown to cause allergic reactions in people who have seasonal allergies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Scents like rosemary may improve focus and concentration.\", \"描述\": \"There are some essential oils that people associate with a calmer and more focused mind. These are great for when you are working under a deadline or are simply struggling to get your mind in order. Rosemary oil is a nice option for these situations.\\nCedarwood, lemon oil, grapefruit, wild orange, and lavender are also good options. Try them out to see which ones you prefer or use a blend that you enjoy.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try a stimulating scent like peppermint to reduce fatigue.\", \"描述\": \"Peppermint is a naturally refreshing scent that may help increase alertness and get your mind moving. Other oils that you may find stimulating are eucalyptus, basil, bergamot, or good old rosemary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Select oils that smell good to you.\", \"描述\": \"Some essential oils may have therapeutic value but may not smell all that great. Tea tree oil, for example, has antimicrobial properties, but it has a very woodsy smell that you may not want in your home. Other oils, like peppermint, for example, will smell nice in addition to any aromatherapy effects you might experience.\\n\\nTry adding a few drops of an oil that smells good, like lavender, to your preparation to improve the overall effect.\\nRose essential oil is associated with reducing stress and anxiety.\\nPatchouli essential oil is another fragrance many people find pleasant. Like tea tree oil, it may have some antimicrobial and antifungal effects.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Visit an aromatherapist for advice.\", \"描述\": \"While aromatherapists are not accredited health professionals and cannot treat or offer medical advice, they can help suggest essential oils or blends you might be interested in trying out.\\nDon't do business with aromatherapists who claim to be able to cure health conditions or charge large amounts of money.\\nAlways exercise caution when evaluating health claims about essential oils, because there is currently little evidence for their effectiveness.\\nThe vast majority of essential oils are not very expensive and should not cost a fortune.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using a Traditional Oil Burner\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a traditional candle burner for its simplicity.\", \"描述\": \"Traditional oil burners are two-tiered ceramic pieces made up of a small bowl-shaped top where you put your oil, and a bottom section where you place a small, tea-light candle.\\nOil burners of this type are inexpensive, easy to find in stores or online from retailers that sell home goods or health and beauty supplies. You can even find these in some grocery stores.\\nLook for a burner that has a deep bowl so the contents won’t evaporate too quickly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the ceramic bowl on the top of your burner with water.\", \"描述\": \"Pour water slowly into the top, carefully filling the bowl until it is just below the edge. Some burners have an inner lip, which is a good indicator to use when you’re filling the bowl.\\nUsing regular tap water is fine, but if you have high mineral levels in your water you may prefer to use distilled water to minimize the build-up of residue.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add 10 drops of your essential oils to the water.\", \"描述\": \"Using either a medicine dropper or the applicator/dispenser that came with your oil, add 10 drops of your oil to the water.\\nIf you’re mixing oils, keep the total number of drops to 10 or less as you don’t want to overdo it. You can always add more later if you think the aroma is not strong enough.\\nExperiment to find the concentration of oil to water that you like best.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Insert and light your tea light.\", \"描述\": \"A tea light candle is a small candle encased in a foil shell so that when it burns, the wax is contained. Carefully light the candle and place it in the bottom of the burner.\\nOil is flammable, so keep your oil bottles away from the flame.\\nNever leave an open flame unattended and keep the burner out of reach of pets and children.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Limit the time you burn oils to 30-60 minutes.\", \"描述\": \"Because there can be negative effects to breathing essential oils constantly, it is best to keep diffusing sessions within the 30-60 minute range. You can alternate with 30-60 minutes on, and 30-60 minutes off.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Wash your burner in between uses to prevent residue build-up.\", \"描述\": \"Wipe out the bowl of your burner with a tissue dampened with rubbing alcohol. This will remove oil residue, leaving your burner fresh and scent-free for the next time you want to use it. If left unwashed, your burner will soak up the essential oil residues that are left behind. \\nBuilt-up residue contributes to an accumulation of scents that will ultimately make the burner unusable for different oils.\\nLeaving your burner unwashed may also result in an unpleasant burnt smell when you use it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using an Electric Oil Burner\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for a ceramic burner that uses a low heat.\", \"描述\": \"A burner that uses a small lightbulb as a heating element can be a good option, as the warmer will only get as hot as the lightbulb allows. Other models involve sitting a ceramic bowl on top of a heating element, sometimes referred to as a candle warmer or wax warmer.\\nElectric burners eliminate the need for an open flame, but electrical hazards can still cause fire risks and the heating element can cause burns. Operate these with care and never leave them unattended.\\nAvoid using an extension cord as this increases the risk of fire. Choose a burner that has a cord that is long enough to reach your outlet.\\nDo not place more than three electrical appliances into any one outlet at a time. It’s also a good idea to unplug your burner when it’s not in use.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Prepare your oil just as you would with a traditional burner.\", \"描述\": \"Electrical burners really only differ from traditional models in how they heat the oils. The rest of the process looks the same.\\nFill the ceramic bowl with water, using distilled if your tap water has a high mineral content.\\nAdd approximately 10 drops of your essential oils.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn on your burner by plugging it in.\", \"描述\": \"Instead of lighting a candle, your electric burner will need to be plugged into a working electrical socket. Some burner models may also have an “off/on” switch somewhere on their cord. Check to see if this is the case and make sure you turn it to the on position.\\nDon’t burn your oils for more than an hour or so at a time. Cycle between periods of burning and not burning so that you don’t overwhelm your space with too much oil.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep your burner clean in between uses.\", \"描述\": \"Wash out the bowl of your burner in between aromatherapy sessions to avoid the build-up of residues. Use a tissue or cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol to wipe out the bowl.\\nTurn off and unplug your burner before cleaning it. Leave it to cool for 15-20 minutes after turning it off before you attempt to clean it as it could cause burns.\\nTo remove built-up residue that you missed, try a mixture of 2-3 drops of lemon essential oil, 2 tablespoons (28.8 g) of baking soda and ½ tablespoon (7.5 mL) of water. Spread this over the affected area and let it sit for 5 minutes before wiping clean with a sponge.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Burning an Essential Oil Candle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy clean-burning essential oil candles to prevent indoor air pollution.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you’re shopping in a store or online, look for candles that are made with pure essential oils (not just fragrance). Also select candles that are made from beeswax or soybeans, not paraffin (a petroleum byproduct). Also check for a “lead-free” label when you purchase candles.\\nLook for cotton wicks when you are shopping for candles.\\nKeep your wicks trimmed to ⁄8 in (0.32 cm). This lessens the amount of soot the candle produces while it’s burning.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make your own essential oil tea lights.\", \"描述\": \"This process involves hot wax, so proceed with caution. Light a tea light candle and allow the wax to melt. Extinguish the flame and then add 3-5 drops of your essential oils into the wax. Stir with a toothpick and allow the wax to cool and harden again.\\nExperiment with the concentration of essential oil in your DIY candles until you get the result you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Burn your candles long enough for it to melt all the way across.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you are using a store-bought or homemade candle, you want to burn it long enough for the entire top layer of wax to melt. This will ensure that your candle burns evenly and will last as long as possible.\\nLook for candles with multiple wicks. This will help speed up the melting process, diffusing oils more quickly and efficiently.\\nJust like with oil burners, don’t burn your candles all day long, every day as this can have negative health effects.\\nBurn until the wax is evenly melted, then take a break. The exact times will vary based on the size of your candle.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Just because essential oils are natural, doesn’t mean they are safe. They are highly concentrated and can be dangerous if not used properly.[36]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Never burn essential oil without diluting it.\\n\", \"Keep children and pets away from essential oils.[37]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n If a child or pet ingests the oil, develops a rash, has difficulty breathing, or gets the oil in their eyes, you should seek immediate medical assistance.[38]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"If you get the oil on your skin, immediately wash the area with soap and water.[39]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,714 |
How to Burn Fat
|
1. Reduce your calories gradually.
Jumping straight into a low-calorie diet is a shock to your system.
When you go cold turkey, your body has no idea what's going on—so as a protective measure it clings onto your fat stores. Instead, ease your body into the diet by cutting your calories gradually.
Set a reasonable daily calorie goal that you can reduce gradually. It might be 1,200 or 2,200 depending on your individual factors. Seek advice from your doctor, nutritionist, or dietician for guidance tailored to your needs.
2. Vary your daily calories while reducing your overall average.
Your body may adjust to a lower but steady calorie intake.
This means that it won't draw from your stored fat. To keep your body guessing and your metabolism up, try switching between higher and lower daily calorie intakes. This might help avoid that dreaded weight-loss plateau and improve your willpower.
In other words, if you do a low-calorie diet all the time, your body may adjust its metabolic rate so you don't lose too much fat. But if you keep it on its toes, it won't be able to regulate your fat stores as effectively.
This plan should still be paired with lowering your average daily intake gradually. Ask a doctor or nutrition expert you trust for their take on this type of diet plan.
3. Eat small meals more often.
In simple terms, eating spurs your metabolism.
This is the process by which your body turns food into energy. Eating more often, then, may kick your metabolism into a higher gear more times per day (e.g., if you eat six times a day, you get six “spikes”). But, you must make sure that eating more often does not also mean eating more; you must reduce your overall average daily calories.
Look for hunger-busting snacks rich in protein, healthy fat, and fiber. Try a tablespoon of peanut butter on celery, almonds, whole-grain cereals, and breads.
4. Drink plenty of water.
Water is great for your body, including your weight loss goals.
Drinking water may, according to some research, on its own cause your metabolism to spike. And, at the very least, drinking water before a meal can help fill you up (and cause you to eat less).
Drink water more frequently, and more overall per day. You'll be more hydrated, healthier, and your body won't be looking to cling onto those fat stores!
5. Cut out bad carbs.
As long as you feed your body carbohydrates, it will not burn fat.
Fat is just stored food; in other words, it's fuel for your body. Carbohydrates are your primary outside source of fuel, and your body can burn either carbs or fat just the same.
However, cutting carbs alone may not help you shed fat unless you are also cutting your overall calories as part of the process.
Remember that all carbs are not created equal (e.g., refined sugar and whole grains). There are okay carbs for you (the slow-burning kind like oatmeal and the ones in veggies); the bad ones are the simple sugars (think white things and candies).
6. Eat more lean proteins.
Protein is used as building blocks for muscle in your body and won't turn to fat.
Both protein and carbs contain roughly the same amount of calories per gram, but protein is not a preferred fuel like carbs. So make lean meats, fish, and soy a regular part of your diet.
When you're packing on protein and saying no to carbs, your brain will send signals, which you interpret as hunger, before switching to ketosis (i.e., fat burning). After that, your hunger pangs should subside.
Eating a lot of protein is hard on the liver and kidneys, and there are other considerations for "keto dieting." It is not advised to consume zero carbs; just limit them, and stick to the good ones.
7. Refrain from alcohol.
Alcohol is full of empty calories, or bad carbs.
When you consume some, it's hard not to consume more. So while it's tempting to join in socially, refrain—or at least severely restrict yourself. After all, excessive drinking can make fat burning the least of your worries!
If you absolutely must drink alcohol, keep it to one drink if you're a woman or two if you're a man. But that should only be a once-in-a-while thing, for the sake of your fat-burning goals.
8. Drink green tea and coffee.
These beverages may boost your metabolism.
Some studies have shown that 25 ounces of green tea or 16 ounces of coffee can spur an increase in your metabolism. Just make sure you don't load up your cup with spoonfuls of sugar.
Green tea and coffee seem to offer a wide range of possible health benefits, perhaps most notably the former's antioxidant properties.
9. Load up on fat-burning foods.
Don't focus only on the foods you can't eat or should avoid whenever possible.
There are many delicious foods that you can and should eat to keep your metabolism on the upswing. So stock up on foods like:
Oatmeal
Lowfat or nonfat dairy (a little counterintuitive, but studies say that those who consume suggested amounts of dairy burn fat more easily than those who don't)
Healthy fats, like nuts, avocados, olive oil, and fatty fish
Eggs
Spicy foods
Grapefruit
10. Break up your workouts.
Your metabolism spikes after every bout of physical activity.
So, if you can break up your hour workout into two half-hour chunks, you'll get two spikes instead of one. Your body burns calories at a higher rate after a workout (sometimes for several hours after), and if you rejuvenate it later in the day, you'll further enhance the effect.
This can be taken advantage of in small ways, too. Even two 15-minute walks can cause a boost. So, with both your meals and your workouts, try to go with smaller/shorter but more frequent.
11. Pair strength training with your cardio.
Doing cardio is great for you, but doing cardio and lifting weights is even better for burning fat.
If you want the most bang for your buck, you should do both.
Working with weights is important if you've cut back on calories. When you restrict your caloric intake, you risk losing muscle mass instead of fat. If so, you might shed some pounds and still not get the results you're looking for.
12. Do strength training before aerobic exercise.
Doing this helps keep your post-workout metabolism up for longer—perhaps even all day.
So, if you're doing both cardio and lifting weights, it's ideal if you do weights first and then do cardio—in other words, “firm then burn!”
This order of exercise may also be easier for you to manage. Generally, pumping iron requires better form and technique. When you're tired from running or biking, it may be harder to lift weights with proper technique.
13. Try interval training.
This exercise routine can help you break up your workout without stopping your workout session.
Interval training involves you going at a moderately easy pace for a duration of time, and then going all out. You can also adjust the duration and pauses between the cycling back and forth. This can burn more calories and potentially increase your metabolism.
The simplest example of interval training might be the treadmill. Walk for 30 seconds, then run full out for 30. Just 15 minutes of this is more beneficial than a 30-minute even-paced jog.
14. Give crosstraining a try.
You can actually burn fewer calories when your body is familiar with the level and type of exertion it's experiencing.
Whatever your workout is—whether it's a 15-minute walk with the dog or a 10K through the park—your body gets used to it. So to keep your body a bit off guard, try crosstraining. Consider it a good excuse to pick up that hobby you've been eying.
Crosstraining simply means doing a variety of exercise activities—running one day, swimming the next, biking the day after that. Mixing it up isn't only good for your body, though—it also does wonders for impending boredom!
15. Stay off the scale if it helps your motivation.
How you look and feel matters more than what you weigh.
When you lose fat, you don't necessarily lose muscle—and muscle weighs more than fat. So, consider that number on the scale arbitrary.
That said, checking in on the scale at least once a week does seem to benefit long-term weight loss plans. So, don't throw away your scale, but do find the frequency that works for you.
16. Find ways to reduce your stress.
People under excess stress tend to make less healthy food choices.
Because of this, they may also burn fat more slowly. Excessive stress is bad for your skin, it's bad for your sleep, it's bad for relationships—it's just bad overall. So find a healthy way to get rid of it! You'll feel better no matter how much it helps you in losing subcutaneous and visceral body fat.
Many people find success in reducing stress through meditation and yoga. But maybe long walks in the park or listening to relaxing music will do the trick for you. Keep trying until you find what works.
17. Get enough sleep.
Aim for around 7-9 hours a night.
You may think that sleep would be counterproductive in losing fat, but properly rested bodies tend to process carbs more efficiently.
Also, if you're not properly rested, you start craving sugar. Your hormone levels (cortisol, ghrelin, and insulin) go out of whack and your body starts clinging onto fats and sugars left and right. Prevent this by getting the sleep you need.
18. Get active in small ways.
Even the slightest amount of activity is better than none at all.
Studies show that fidgeters, on average, weigh less. Non-fidgeters are even more likely to store calories as fat. So in addition to cleaning the house, walking the dog, and parking on the far side of the parking lot, find time to fidget, if that's your kind of thing!
Little opportunities can always be had. Take the stairs instead of the elevator. Go around the grocery store in the most inefficient way possible. Fake out your chair by not quite sitting down—that is, by doing squats. This stuff adds up without you even realizing it.
Warnings
Never starve yourself through excessive calorie restriction. Your body will shut down, and the health consequences can be devastating.
It is advisable to consult with a doctor before starting a keto diet, according to most experts.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Reduce your calories gradually.\\nJumping straight into a low-calorie diet is a shock to your system.\\nWhen you go cold turkey, your body has no idea what's going on—so as a protective measure it clings onto your fat stores. Instead, ease your body into the diet by cutting your calories gradually.\\nSet a reasonable daily calorie goal that you can reduce gradually. It might be 1,200 or 2,200 depending on your individual factors. Seek advice from your doctor, nutritionist, or dietician for guidance tailored to your needs.\\n2. Vary your daily calories while reducing your overall average.\\nYour body may adjust to a lower but steady calorie intake.\\nThis means that it won't draw from your stored fat. To keep your body guessing and your metabolism up, try switching between higher and lower daily calorie intakes. This might help avoid that dreaded weight-loss plateau and improve your willpower.\\nIn other words, if you do a low-calorie diet all the time, your body may adjust its metabolic rate so you don't lose too much fat. But if you keep it on its toes, it won't be able to regulate your fat stores as effectively.\\nThis plan should still be paired with lowering your average daily intake gradually. Ask a doctor or nutrition expert you trust for their take on this type of diet plan.\\n3. Eat small meals more often.\\nIn simple terms, eating spurs your metabolism.\\nThis is the process by which your body turns food into energy. Eating more often, then, may kick your metabolism into a higher gear more times per day (e.g., if you eat six times a day, you get six “spikes”). But, you must make sure that eating more often does not also mean eating more; you must reduce your overall average daily calories.\\nLook for hunger-busting snacks rich in protein, healthy fat, and fiber. Try a tablespoon of peanut butter on celery, almonds, whole-grain cereals, and breads.\\n4. Drink plenty of water.\\nWater is great for your body, including your weight loss goals.\\nDrinking water may, according to some research, on its own cause your metabolism to spike. And, at the very least, drinking water before a meal can help fill you up (and cause you to eat less).\\nDrink water more frequently, and more overall per day. You'll be more hydrated, healthier, and your body won't be looking to cling onto those fat stores!\\n5. Cut out bad carbs.\\nAs long as you feed your body carbohydrates, it will not burn fat.\\nFat is just stored food; in other words, it's fuel for your body. Carbohydrates are your primary outside source of fuel, and your body can burn either carbs or fat just the same.\\nHowever, cutting carbs alone may not help you shed fat unless you are also cutting your overall calories as part of the process.\\nRemember that all carbs are not created equal (e.g., refined sugar and whole grains). There are okay carbs for you (the slow-burning kind like oatmeal and the ones in veggies); the bad ones are the simple sugars (think white things and candies).\\n6. Eat more lean proteins.\\nProtein is used as building blocks for muscle in your body and won't turn to fat.\\nBoth protein and carbs contain roughly the same amount of calories per gram, but protein is not a preferred fuel like carbs. So make lean meats, fish, and soy a regular part of your diet.\\nWhen you're packing on protein and saying no to carbs, your brain will send signals, which you interpret as hunger, before switching to ketosis (i.e., fat burning). After that, your hunger pangs should subside.\\nEating a lot of protein is hard on the liver and kidneys, and there are other considerations for \\\"keto dieting.\\\" It is not advised to consume zero carbs; just limit them, and stick to the good ones.\\n7. Refrain from alcohol.\\nAlcohol is full of empty calories, or bad carbs.\\nWhen you consume some, it's hard not to consume more. So while it's tempting to join in socially, refrain—or at least severely restrict yourself. After all, excessive drinking can make fat burning the least of your worries!\\nIf you absolutely must drink alcohol, keep it to one drink if you're a woman or two if you're a man. But that should only be a once-in-a-while thing, for the sake of your fat-burning goals.\\n8. Drink green tea and coffee.\\nThese beverages may boost your metabolism.\\nSome studies have shown that 25 ounces of green tea or 16 ounces of coffee can spur an increase in your metabolism. Just make sure you don't load up your cup with spoonfuls of sugar.\\nGreen tea and coffee seem to offer a wide range of possible health benefits, perhaps most notably the former's antioxidant properties.\\n9. Load up on fat-burning foods.\\nDon't focus only on the foods you can't eat or should avoid whenever possible.\\nThere are many delicious foods that you can and should eat to keep your metabolism on the upswing. So stock up on foods like:\\nOatmeal\\nLowfat or nonfat dairy (a little counterintuitive, but studies say that those who consume suggested amounts of dairy burn fat more easily than those who don't)\\nHealthy fats, like nuts, avocados, olive oil, and fatty fish\\nEggs\\nSpicy foods\\nGrapefruit\\n10. Break up your workouts.\\nYour metabolism spikes after every bout of physical activity.\\nSo, if you can break up your hour workout into two half-hour chunks, you'll get two spikes instead of one. Your body burns calories at a higher rate after a workout (sometimes for several hours after), and if you rejuvenate it later in the day, you'll further enhance the effect.\\nThis can be taken advantage of in small ways, too. Even two 15-minute walks can cause a boost. So, with both your meals and your workouts, try to go with smaller/shorter but more frequent.\\n11. Pair strength training with your cardio.\\nDoing cardio is great for you, but doing cardio and lifting weights is even better for burning fat.\\nIf you want the most bang for your buck, you should do both.\\nWorking with weights is important if you've cut back on calories. When you restrict your caloric intake, you risk losing muscle mass instead of fat. If so, you might shed some pounds and still not get the results you're looking for.\\n12. Do strength training before aerobic exercise.\\nDoing this helps keep your post-workout metabolism up for longer—perhaps even all day.\\nSo, if you're doing both cardio and lifting weights, it's ideal if you do weights first and then do cardio—in other words, “firm then burn!”\\nThis order of exercise may also be easier for you to manage. Generally, pumping iron requires better form and technique. When you're tired from running or biking, it may be harder to lift weights with proper technique.\\n13. Try interval training.\\nThis exercise routine can help you break up your workout without stopping your workout session.\\nInterval training involves you going at a moderately easy pace for a duration of time, and then going all out. You can also adjust the duration and pauses between the cycling back and forth. This can burn more calories and potentially increase your metabolism.\\nThe simplest example of interval training might be the treadmill. Walk for 30 seconds, then run full out for 30. Just 15 minutes of this is more beneficial than a 30-minute even-paced jog.\\n14. Give crosstraining a try.\\nYou can actually burn fewer calories when your body is familiar with the level and type of exertion it's experiencing.\\nWhatever your workout is—whether it's a 15-minute walk with the dog or a 10K through the park—your body gets used to it. So to keep your body a bit off guard, try crosstraining. Consider it a good excuse to pick up that hobby you've been eying.\\nCrosstraining simply means doing a variety of exercise activities—running one day, swimming the next, biking the day after that. Mixing it up isn't only good for your body, though—it also does wonders for impending boredom!\\n15. Stay off the scale if it helps your motivation.\\nHow you look and feel matters more than what you weigh.\\nWhen you lose fat, you don't necessarily lose muscle—and muscle weighs more than fat. So, consider that number on the scale arbitrary.\\nThat said, checking in on the scale at least once a week does seem to benefit long-term weight loss plans. So, don't throw away your scale, but do find the frequency that works for you.\\n16. Find ways to reduce your stress.\\nPeople under excess stress tend to make less healthy food choices.\\nBecause of this, they may also burn fat more slowly. Excessive stress is bad for your skin, it's bad for your sleep, it's bad for relationships—it's just bad overall. So find a healthy way to get rid of it! You'll feel better no matter how much it helps you in losing subcutaneous and visceral body fat.\\nMany people find success in reducing stress through meditation and yoga. But maybe long walks in the park or listening to relaxing music will do the trick for you. Keep trying until you find what works.\\n17. Get enough sleep.\\nAim for around 7-9 hours a night.\\nYou may think that sleep would be counterproductive in losing fat, but properly rested bodies tend to process carbs more efficiently.\\nAlso, if you're not properly rested, you start craving sugar. Your hormone levels (cortisol, ghrelin, and insulin) go out of whack and your body starts clinging onto fats and sugars left and right. Prevent this by getting the sleep you need.\\n18. Get active in small ways.\\nEven the slightest amount of activity is better than none at all.\\nStudies show that fidgeters, on average, weigh less. Non-fidgeters are even more likely to store calories as fat. So in addition to cleaning the house, walking the dog, and parking on the far side of the parking lot, find time to fidget, if that's your kind of thing!\\nLittle opportunities can always be had. Take the stairs instead of the elevator. Go around the grocery store in the most inefficient way possible. Fake out your chair by not quite sitting down—that is, by doing squats. This stuff adds up without you even realizing it.\\nWarnings\\nNever starve yourself through excessive calorie restriction. Your body will shut down, and the health consequences can be devastating.\\nIt is advisable to consult with a doctor before starting a keto diet, according to most experts.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Body fat seems so easy to add and so hard to get rid of. You try to work out and restrict your calorie intake, and yet the fat still refuses to go away. There’s no need to worry, though—you can tackle your fat-burning goals head-on by making simple adjustments to your eating habits, food choices, exercise routine, and lifestyle. Here are 18 handy tips to help you put your best foot forward.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reduce your calories gradually.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Jumping straight into a low-calorie diet is a shock to your system.\", \"描述\": \"When you go cold turkey, your body has no idea what's going on—so as a protective measure it clings onto your fat stores. Instead, ease your body into the diet by cutting your calories gradually.\\nSet a reasonable daily calorie goal that you can reduce gradually. It might be 1,200 or 2,200 depending on your individual factors. Seek advice from your doctor, nutritionist, or dietician for guidance tailored to your needs.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Vary your daily calories while reducing your overall average.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your body may adjust to a lower but steady calorie intake.\", \"描述\": \"This means that it won't draw from your stored fat. To keep your body guessing and your metabolism up, try switching between higher and lower daily calorie intakes. This might help avoid that dreaded weight-loss plateau and improve your willpower.\\nIn other words, if you do a low-calorie diet all the time, your body may adjust its metabolic rate so you don't lose too much fat. But if you keep it on its toes, it won't be able to regulate your fat stores as effectively.\\nThis plan should still be paired with lowering your average daily intake gradually. Ask a doctor or nutrition expert you trust for their take on this type of diet plan.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Eat small meals more often.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"In simple terms, eating spurs your metabolism.\", \"描述\": \"This is the process by which your body turns food into energy. Eating more often, then, may kick your metabolism into a higher gear more times per day (e.g., if you eat six times a day, you get six “spikes”). But, you must make sure that eating more often does not also mean eating more; you must reduce your overall average daily calories.\\nLook for hunger-busting snacks rich in protein, healthy fat, and fiber. Try a tablespoon of peanut butter on celery, almonds, whole-grain cereals, and breads.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drink plenty of water.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Water is great for your body, including your weight loss goals.\", \"描述\": \"Drinking water may, according to some research, on its own cause your metabolism to spike. And, at the very least, drinking water before a meal can help fill you up (and cause you to eat less).\\nDrink water more frequently, and more overall per day. You'll be more hydrated, healthier, and your body won't be looking to cling onto those fat stores!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut out bad carbs.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"As long as you feed your body carbohydrates, it will not burn fat.\", \"描述\": \"Fat is just stored food; in other words, it's fuel for your body. Carbohydrates are your primary outside source of fuel, and your body can burn either carbs or fat just the same.\\nHowever, cutting carbs alone may not help you shed fat unless you are also cutting your overall calories as part of the process.\\nRemember that all carbs are not created equal (e.g., refined sugar and whole grains). There are okay carbs for you (the slow-burning kind like oatmeal and the ones in veggies); the bad ones are the simple sugars (think white things and candies).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Eat more lean proteins.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Protein is used as building blocks for muscle in your body and won't turn to fat.\", \"描述\": \"Both protein and carbs contain roughly the same amount of calories per gram, but protein is not a preferred fuel like carbs. So make lean meats, fish, and soy a regular part of your diet.\\nWhen you're packing on protein and saying no to carbs, your brain will send signals, which you interpret as hunger, before switching to ketosis (i.e., fat burning). After that, your hunger pangs should subside.\\nEating a lot of protein is hard on the liver and kidneys, and there are other considerations for \\\"keto dieting.\\\" It is not advised to consume zero carbs; just limit them, and stick to the good ones.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Refrain from alcohol.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Alcohol is full of empty calories, or bad carbs.\", \"描述\": \"When you consume some, it's hard not to consume more. So while it's tempting to join in socially, refrain—or at least severely restrict yourself. After all, excessive drinking can make fat burning the least of your worries!\\nIf you absolutely must drink alcohol, keep it to one drink if you're a woman or two if you're a man. But that should only be a once-in-a-while thing, for the sake of your fat-burning goals.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drink green tea and coffee.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"These beverages may boost your metabolism.\", \"描述\": \"Some studies have shown that 25 ounces of green tea or 16 ounces of coffee can spur an increase in your metabolism. Just make sure you don't load up your cup with spoonfuls of sugar.\\nGreen tea and coffee seem to offer a wide range of possible health benefits, perhaps most notably the former's antioxidant properties.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Load up on fat-burning foods.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Don't focus only on the foods you can't eat or should avoid whenever possible.\", \"描述\": \"There are many delicious foods that you can and should eat to keep your metabolism on the upswing. So stock up on foods like:\\nOatmeal\\nLowfat or nonfat dairy (a little counterintuitive, but studies say that those who consume suggested amounts of dairy burn fat more easily than those who don't)\\nHealthy fats, like nuts, avocados, olive oil, and fatty fish\\nEggs\\nSpicy foods\\nGrapefruit\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Break up your workouts.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Your metabolism spikes after every bout of physical activity.\", \"描述\": \"So, if you can break up your hour workout into two half-hour chunks, you'll get two spikes instead of one. Your body burns calories at a higher rate after a workout (sometimes for several hours after), and if you rejuvenate it later in the day, you'll further enhance the effect.\\nThis can be taken advantage of in small ways, too. Even two 15-minute walks can cause a boost. So, with both your meals and your workouts, try to go with smaller/shorter but more frequent.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Pair strength training with your cardio.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Doing cardio is great for you, but doing cardio and lifting weights is even better for burning fat.\", \"描述\": \"If you want the most bang for your buck, you should do both.\\nWorking with weights is important if you've cut back on calories. When you restrict your caloric intake, you risk losing muscle mass instead of fat. If so, you might shed some pounds and still not get the results you're looking for.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Do strength training before aerobic exercise.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Doing this helps keep your post-workout metabolism up for longer—perhaps even all day.\", \"描述\": \"So, if you're doing both cardio and lifting weights, it's ideal if you do weights first and then do cardio—in other words, “firm then burn!”\\nThis order of exercise may also be easier for you to manage. Generally, pumping iron requires better form and technique. When you're tired from running or biking, it may be harder to lift weights with proper technique.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Try interval training.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"This exercise routine can help you break up your workout without stopping your workout session.\", \"描述\": \"Interval training involves you going at a moderately easy pace for a duration of time, and then going all out. You can also adjust the duration and pauses between the cycling back and forth. This can burn more calories and potentially increase your metabolism.\\nThe simplest example of interval training might be the treadmill. Walk for 30 seconds, then run full out for 30. Just 15 minutes of this is more beneficial than a 30-minute even-paced jog.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Give crosstraining a try.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You can actually burn fewer calories when your body is familiar with the level and type of exertion it's experiencing.\", \"描述\": \"Whatever your workout is—whether it's a 15-minute walk with the dog or a 10K through the park—your body gets used to it. So to keep your body a bit off guard, try crosstraining. Consider it a good excuse to pick up that hobby you've been eying.\\nCrosstraining simply means doing a variety of exercise activities—running one day, swimming the next, biking the day after that. Mixing it up isn't only good for your body, though—it also does wonders for impending boredom!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Stay off the scale if it helps your motivation.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"How you look and feel matters more than what you weigh.\", \"描述\": \"When you lose fat, you don't necessarily lose muscle—and muscle weighs more than fat. So, consider that number on the scale arbitrary.\\nThat said, checking in on the scale at least once a week does seem to benefit long-term weight loss plans. So, don't throw away your scale, but do find the frequency that works for you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Find ways to reduce your stress.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"People under excess stress tend to make less healthy food choices.\", \"描述\": \"Because of this, they may also burn fat more slowly. Excessive stress is bad for your skin, it's bad for your sleep, it's bad for relationships—it's just bad overall. So find a healthy way to get rid of it! You'll feel better no matter how much it helps you in losing subcutaneous and visceral body fat.\\nMany people find success in reducing stress through meditation and yoga. But maybe long walks in the park or listening to relaxing music will do the trick for you. Keep trying until you find what works.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Get enough sleep.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Aim for around 7-9 hours a night.\", \"描述\": \"You may think that sleep would be counterproductive in losing fat, but properly rested bodies tend to process carbs more efficiently.\\nAlso, if you're not properly rested, you start craving sugar. Your hormone levels (cortisol, ghrelin, and insulin) go out of whack and your body starts clinging onto fats and sugars left and right. Prevent this by getting the sleep you need.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Get active in small ways.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Even the slightest amount of activity is better than none at all.\", \"描述\": \"Studies show that fidgeters, on average, weigh less. Non-fidgeters are even more likely to store calories as fat. So in addition to cleaning the house, walking the dog, and parking on the far side of the parking lot, find time to fidget, if that's your kind of thing!\\nLittle opportunities can always be had. Take the stairs instead of the elevator. Go around the grocery store in the most inefficient way possible. Fake out your chair by not quite sitting down—that is, by doing squats. This stuff adds up without you even realizing it.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Never starve yourself through excessive calorie restriction. Your body will shut down, and the health consequences can be devastating.\\n\", \"It is advisable to consult with a doctor before starting a keto diet, according to most experts.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,715 |
How to Burn Fat Without Losing Muscle
|
1. Eat adequate protein
When you cut out calories, you limit how much protein you can consume.
Not being able to eat adequate protein throughout the day may also result in muscle mass loss.
At a minimum, women need 46 g of protein daily and men need 56 g of protein daily. This is easily met when you consume a source of protein at every meal and snack. Do not consume less than this amount.
Stick to high-quality sources of protein such as lean red meat, poultry, seafood, beans, lentils, tofu, nuts or natural nut butter, eggs, and low-fat dairy.
One serving of protein is about 3-4 ounces or a cut of meat that's about the size of your palm or a deck of cards.
2. Fill up on fruits and vegetables
Both of these food groups are fairly low in calories but high in nutrients.
They can provide extra bulk to your diet. This can help make a lower-calorie meal plan more filling and satisfying.
It's recommended to consume 2-3 servings of fruit daily and 4-6 servings of vegetables daily. To meet these recommendations, you'll most likely need to consume a fruit or vegetable at each meal.
One small fruit or 1/2 cup counts as 1 serving of fruit and 1 or 2 cups of leafy greens counts as one serving of vegetables.
3. Consume 2-3 servings of carbohydrates daily
Following a lower-carb diet can help you lose weight more quickly.
You can also lose more fat compared to low-fat diets or only low-calorie diets.
A low-carb diet focuses on limiting how many carbohydrates you eat within a day. Depending on your diet, it could range from 60–200 g of carbohydrate daily. The fewer carbs you allow in your diet, the more restrictive your food choices will be.
Carbohydrates are found in many food groups including grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, dairy, and legumes. Consume just one to three servings of these daily to support weight loss. Read packages or use a food journal to find out how many carbs are in the foods you're eating.
A low-carb diet with higher protein has shown the best potential for fat loss and maintaining muscle mass.
Talk to your doctor prior to starting a low-carb diet. While safe for the general healthy adult, following a low-carb diet might not be appropriate for everyone.
4. Focus on proper fueling and recovery
It's important to focus on proper nutrition right before and after a workout.
This is especially true when you're dieting, working out, and aiming to maintain or build muscle mass.
Prior to a workout, it's ideal to consume a lot of hydrating fluids and also a small carbohydrate-rich meal. This should be eaten at least 30 minutes prior to your workout to make sure you don't have any GI upset during your exercise program.
Pre-workout snacks include a small bowl of oatmeal, a small piece of fruit, individual yogurt, or a serving of whole-wheat crackers.
Immediately after a workout, it's also important to continue drinking hydrating fluids. In addition, you should consume a small meal or snack that contains protein and carbohydrates. This combination in particular helps muscles recover. Try to eat within 60 minutes of completing your workout.
Post-workout snacks include hummus and whole-grain pita chips, a small apple and peanut butter, chocolate milk, trail mix with dried fruit and nuts, or a fruit smoothie with added protein powder.
5. Do cardio exercise 3-5 times per week
One key part of fat loss is exercise.
Cardiovascular (cardio) or aerobic exercise helps your body burn calories and can support your weight loss.
Maintaining the body’s lean muscle mass and burning calories can be accomplished by performing cardio exercise regularly.
Aim for about 150 minutes of cardio each week. Ideally, the exercise performed should be at moderate intensity. This is any activity that raises your heart rate and breathing to a level where it's still comfortable for you to say short sentences without stopping for a breath.
Different types of aerobic activity can include: walking/running, biking, using the elliptical, swimming, or dancing.
Interval training is a combination of strength training and cardio in short bursts of high and moderate-intensity exercises. You can do these types of activities for shorter amounts of time. Studies show that this type of activity helps support fat loss.
6. Perform weight training 2-3 times per week
A crucial part of fat loss and muscle mass maintenance is strength training.
Consistent weight training helps prevent muscle mass loss and can increase the amount of lean muscle mass.
Strength training should be done for about 20–30 minutes per session. Try to work every major muscle group during each training. Make sure to work: core (back, abs and glutes), chest, arms, and legs.
Strength training activities include weight lifting, isometric exercises, and classes like yoga or pilates.
If you're just starting out with weights or strength training, start with low weights and a few repetitions. Do not start out with overly heavy weights or train for long periods of time - this could cause injury.
Limit your training frequency for each muscle group to every other day at a maximum. Each specific muscle group should only be directly stimulated 1-2 times per week in order to allow for full recovery time.
7. Include enough rest days
Taking a day or 2 off within the week will help your body recover.
That way, you can continue to maintain and build lean muscle mass. It's important to take off between both cardio and strength training throughout the week.
Allow for about 24–48 hours of time off between strength training sessions.
When you take a "rest day" you should still be active. Rest days should not include a lot of sitting or laying down. You should perform very light-intensity and restorative activities. You can walk, take a leisurely bike ride, or do restorative yoga.
8. Consider protein supplements
Protein supplement drinks are moderately low in calories and high in protein.
Getting another 15–30 g of protein daily from these drinks may help you meet your minimum protein intake, increase weight loss and prevent loss of muscle mass.
Whey protein is a high-quality protein for your body. It has all the essential amino acids your body needs and cannot make itself. If purchasing a protein supplement, try to purchase whey protein if possible.
If you have a whey allergy, or do not want to use whey, consider using another source of protein. Egg and soy protein are appropriate alternatives.
Protein supplements have been shown to be especially effective at maintaining and even building lean muscle mass when they are consumed after a workout.
If choosing to use a protein supplement to help increase weight loss, make sure to pick a supplement that's not overly high in calories. Also don't mix a lot of ingredients or high-calorie ingredients that increase your supplement's total calorie level. This may cause weight gain if it adds too many calories to your diet.
You can purchase protein supplements at a variety of stores. Look for them at a well-stocked grocery store, some pharmacies, health food stores, sports/nutrition stores, or online.
9. Aim to lose 1 to 2 pounds per week
Safe weight loss is considered losing about 1 or 2 pounds per week.
Losing weight faster increases your risk for muscle mass loss.
It's generally recommended to never consume less than 1200 calories daily. Calories that are too low for your age, gender, or activity level put you at risk for muscle mass loss as you're not consuming adequate nutrients for your body to function normally.
Losing 1-2 pounds per week results from cutting out about 500 calories daily. Do not cut out more than this.
Tips
Slow and steady weight loss is the best approach to maintaining lean muscle mass while dieting.
Also speak to your doctor prior to starting a new exercise routine.
Prior to making any changes to your diet, always speak with your doctor first. They will be able to tell you what's safe and appropriate for you.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Eat adequate protein\\nWhen you cut out calories, you limit how much protein you can consume.\\nNot being able to eat adequate protein throughout the day may also result in muscle mass loss.\\nAt a minimum, women need 46 g of protein daily and men need 56 g of protein daily. This is easily met when you consume a source of protein at every meal and snack. Do not consume less than this amount.\\nStick to high-quality sources of protein such as lean red meat, poultry, seafood, beans, lentils, tofu, nuts or natural nut butter, eggs, and low-fat dairy.\\nOne serving of protein is about 3-4 ounces or a cut of meat that's about the size of your palm or a deck of cards.\\n2. Fill up on fruits and vegetables\\nBoth of these food groups are fairly low in calories but high in nutrients.\\nThey can provide extra bulk to your diet. This can help make a lower-calorie meal plan more filling and satisfying.\\nIt's recommended to consume 2-3 servings of fruit daily and 4-6 servings of vegetables daily. To meet these recommendations, you'll most likely need to consume a fruit or vegetable at each meal.\\nOne small fruit or 1/2 cup counts as 1 serving of fruit and 1 or 2 cups of leafy greens counts as one serving of vegetables.\\n3. Consume 2-3 servings of carbohydrates daily\\nFollowing a lower-carb diet can help you lose weight more quickly.\\nYou can also lose more fat compared to low-fat diets or only low-calorie diets.\\nA low-carb diet focuses on limiting how many carbohydrates you eat within a day. Depending on your diet, it could range from 60–200 g of carbohydrate daily. The fewer carbs you allow in your diet, the more restrictive your food choices will be.\\nCarbohydrates are found in many food groups including grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, dairy, and legumes. Consume just one to three servings of these daily to support weight loss. Read packages or use a food journal to find out how many carbs are in the foods you're eating.\\nA low-carb diet with higher protein has shown the best potential for fat loss and maintaining muscle mass.\\nTalk to your doctor prior to starting a low-carb diet. While safe for the general healthy adult, following a low-carb diet might not be appropriate for everyone.\\n4. Focus on proper fueling and recovery\\nIt's important to focus on proper nutrition right before and after a workout.\\nThis is especially true when you're dieting, working out, and aiming to maintain or build muscle mass.\\nPrior to a workout, it's ideal to consume a lot of hydrating fluids and also a small carbohydrate-rich meal. This should be eaten at least 30 minutes prior to your workout to make sure you don't have any GI upset during your exercise program.\\nPre-workout snacks include a small bowl of oatmeal, a small piece of fruit, individual yogurt, or a serving of whole-wheat crackers.\\nImmediately after a workout, it's also important to continue drinking hydrating fluids. In addition, you should consume a small meal or snack that contains protein and carbohydrates. This combination in particular helps muscles recover. Try to eat within 60 minutes of completing your workout.\\nPost-workout snacks include hummus and whole-grain pita chips, a small apple and peanut butter, chocolate milk, trail mix with dried fruit and nuts, or a fruit smoothie with added protein powder.\\n5. Do cardio exercise 3-5 times per week\\nOne key part of fat loss is exercise.\\nCardiovascular (cardio) or aerobic exercise helps your body burn calories and can support your weight loss.\\nMaintaining the body’s lean muscle mass and burning calories can be accomplished by performing cardio exercise regularly.\\nAim for about 150 minutes of cardio each week. Ideally, the exercise performed should be at moderate intensity. This is any activity that raises your heart rate and breathing to a level where it's still comfortable for you to say short sentences without stopping for a breath.\\nDifferent types of aerobic activity can include: walking/running, biking, using the elliptical, swimming, or dancing.\\nInterval training is a combination of strength training and cardio in short bursts of high and moderate-intensity exercises. You can do these types of activities for shorter amounts of time. Studies show that this type of activity helps support fat loss.\\n6. Perform weight training 2-3 times per week\\nA crucial part of fat loss and muscle mass maintenance is strength training.\\nConsistent weight training helps prevent muscle mass loss and can increase the amount of lean muscle mass.\\nStrength training should be done for about 20–30 minutes per session. Try to work every major muscle group during each training. Make sure to work: core (back, abs and glutes), chest, arms, and legs.\\nStrength training activities include weight lifting, isometric exercises, and classes like yoga or pilates.\\nIf you're just starting out with weights or strength training, start with low weights and a few repetitions. Do not start out with overly heavy weights or train for long periods of time - this could cause injury.\\nLimit your training frequency for each muscle group to every other day at a maximum. Each specific muscle group should only be directly stimulated 1-2 times per week in order to allow for full recovery time.\\n7. Include enough rest days\\nTaking a day or 2 off within the week will help your body recover.\\nThat way, you can continue to maintain and build lean muscle mass. It's important to take off between both cardio and strength training throughout the week.\\nAllow for about 24–48 hours of time off between strength training sessions.\\nWhen you take a \\\"rest day\\\" you should still be active. Rest days should not include a lot of sitting or laying down. You should perform very light-intensity and restorative activities. You can walk, take a leisurely bike ride, or do restorative yoga.\\n8. Consider protein supplements\\nProtein supplement drinks are moderately low in calories and high in protein.\\nGetting another 15–30 g of protein daily from these drinks may help you meet your minimum protein intake, increase weight loss and prevent loss of muscle mass.\\nWhey protein is a high-quality protein for your body. It has all the essential amino acids your body needs and cannot make itself. If purchasing a protein supplement, try to purchase whey protein if possible.\\nIf you have a whey allergy, or do not want to use whey, consider using another source of protein. Egg and soy protein are appropriate alternatives.\\nProtein supplements have been shown to be especially effective at maintaining and even building lean muscle mass when they are consumed after a workout.\\nIf choosing to use a protein supplement to help increase weight loss, make sure to pick a supplement that's not overly high in calories. Also don't mix a lot of ingredients or high-calorie ingredients that increase your supplement's total calorie level. This may cause weight gain if it adds too many calories to your diet.\\nYou can purchase protein supplements at a variety of stores. Look for them at a well-stocked grocery store, some pharmacies, health food stores, sports/nutrition stores, or online.\\n9. Aim to lose 1 to 2 pounds per week\\nSafe weight loss is considered losing about 1 or 2 pounds per week.\\nLosing weight faster increases your risk for muscle mass loss.\\nIt's generally recommended to never consume less than 1200 calories daily. Calories that are too low for your age, gender, or activity level put you at risk for muscle mass loss as you're not consuming adequate nutrients for your body to function normally.\\nLosing 1-2 pounds per week results from cutting out about 500 calories daily. Do not cut out more than this.\\nTips\\nSlow and steady weight loss is the best approach to maintaining lean muscle mass while dieting.\\nAlso speak to your doctor prior to starting a new exercise routine.\\nPrior to making any changes to your diet, always speak with your doctor first. They will be able to tell you what's safe and appropriate for you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"When you're trying to lose weight and excess fat, it's natural to lose a little muscle mass. To prevent losing too much, there are certain diet plans and types of exercise that can help you lose weight, burn fat, and maintain your muscle mass. Check out this list of tips and tricks to get you started on your journey to a leaner, more muscular body.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Eat adequate protein\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"When you cut out calories, you limit how much protein you can consume.\", \"描述\": \"Not being able to eat adequate protein throughout the day may also result in muscle mass loss.\\nAt a minimum, women need 46 g of protein daily and men need 56 g of protein daily. This is easily met when you consume a source of protein at every meal and snack. Do not consume less than this amount.\\nStick to high-quality sources of protein such as lean red meat, poultry, seafood, beans, lentils, tofu, nuts or natural nut butter, eggs, and low-fat dairy.\\nOne serving of protein is about 3-4 ounces or a cut of meat that's about the size of your palm or a deck of cards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill up on fruits and vegetables\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Both of these food groups are fairly low in calories but high in nutrients.\", \"描述\": \"They can provide extra bulk to your diet. This can help make a lower-calorie meal plan more filling and satisfying.\\nIt's recommended to consume 2-3 servings of fruit daily and 4-6 servings of vegetables daily. To meet these recommendations, you'll most likely need to consume a fruit or vegetable at each meal.\\nOne small fruit or 1/2 cup counts as 1 serving of fruit and 1 or 2 cups of leafy greens counts as one serving of vegetables.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consume 2-3 servings of carbohydrates daily\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Following a lower-carb diet can help you lose weight more quickly.\", \"描述\": \"You can also lose more fat compared to low-fat diets or only low-calorie diets.\\nA low-carb diet focuses on limiting how many carbohydrates you eat within a day. Depending on your diet, it could range from 60–200 g of carbohydrate daily. The fewer carbs you allow in your diet, the more restrictive your food choices will be.\\nCarbohydrates are found in many food groups including grains, fruits, starchy vegetables, dairy, and legumes. Consume just one to three servings of these daily to support weight loss. Read packages or use a food journal to find out how many carbs are in the foods you're eating.\\nA low-carb diet with higher protein has shown the best potential for fat loss and maintaining muscle mass.\\nTalk to your doctor prior to starting a low-carb diet. While safe for the general healthy adult, following a low-carb diet might not be appropriate for everyone.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Focus on proper fueling and recovery\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It's important to focus on proper nutrition right before and after a workout.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially true when you're dieting, working out, and aiming to maintain or build muscle mass.\\nPrior to a workout, it's ideal to consume a lot of hydrating fluids and also a small carbohydrate-rich meal. This should be eaten at least 30 minutes prior to your workout to make sure you don't have any GI upset during your exercise program.\\nPre-workout snacks include a small bowl of oatmeal, a small piece of fruit, individual yogurt, or a serving of whole-wheat crackers.\\nImmediately after a workout, it's also important to continue drinking hydrating fluids. In addition, you should consume a small meal or snack that contains protein and carbohydrates. This combination in particular helps muscles recover. Try to eat within 60 minutes of completing your workout.\\nPost-workout snacks include hummus and whole-grain pita chips, a small apple and peanut butter, chocolate milk, trail mix with dried fruit and nuts, or a fruit smoothie with added protein powder.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Do cardio exercise 3-5 times per week\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"One key part of fat loss is exercise.\", \"描述\": \"Cardiovascular (cardio) or aerobic exercise helps your body burn calories and can support your weight loss.\\nMaintaining the body’s lean muscle mass and burning calories can be accomplished by performing cardio exercise regularly.\\nAim for about 150 minutes of cardio each week. Ideally, the exercise performed should be at moderate intensity. This is any activity that raises your heart rate and breathing to a level where it's still comfortable for you to say short sentences without stopping for a breath.\\nDifferent types of aerobic activity can include: walking/running, biking, using the elliptical, swimming, or dancing.\\nInterval training is a combination of strength training and cardio in short bursts of high and moderate-intensity exercises. You can do these types of activities for shorter amounts of time. Studies show that this type of activity helps support fat loss.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Perform weight training 2-3 times per week\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A crucial part of fat loss and muscle mass maintenance is strength training.\", \"描述\": \"Consistent weight training helps prevent muscle mass loss and can increase the amount of lean muscle mass.\\nStrength training should be done for about 20–30 minutes per session. Try to work every major muscle group during each training. Make sure to work: core (back, abs and glutes), chest, arms, and legs.\\nStrength training activities include weight lifting, isometric exercises, and classes like yoga or pilates.\\nIf you're just starting out with weights or strength training, start with low weights and a few repetitions. Do not start out with overly heavy weights or train for long periods of time - this could cause injury.\\nLimit your training frequency for each muscle group to every other day at a maximum. Each specific muscle group should only be directly stimulated 1-2 times per week in order to allow for full recovery time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Include enough rest days\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Taking a day or 2 off within the week will help your body recover.\", \"描述\": \"That way, you can continue to maintain and build lean muscle mass. It's important to take off between both cardio and strength training throughout the week.\\nAllow for about 24–48 hours of time off between strength training sessions.\\nWhen you take a \\\"rest day\\\" you should still be active. Rest days should not include a lot of sitting or laying down. You should perform very light-intensity and restorative activities. You can walk, take a leisurely bike ride, or do restorative yoga.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Consider protein supplements\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Protein supplement drinks are moderately low in calories and high in protein.\", \"描述\": \"Getting another 15–30 g of protein daily from these drinks may help you meet your minimum protein intake, increase weight loss and prevent loss of muscle mass.\\nWhey protein is a high-quality protein for your body. It has all the essential amino acids your body needs and cannot make itself. If purchasing a protein supplement, try to purchase whey protein if possible.\\nIf you have a whey allergy, or do not want to use whey, consider using another source of protein. Egg and soy protein are appropriate alternatives.\\nProtein supplements have been shown to be especially effective at maintaining and even building lean muscle mass when they are consumed after a workout.\\nIf choosing to use a protein supplement to help increase weight loss, make sure to pick a supplement that's not overly high in calories. Also don't mix a lot of ingredients or high-calorie ingredients that increase your supplement's total calorie level. This may cause weight gain if it adds too many calories to your diet.\\nYou can purchase protein supplements at a variety of stores. Look for them at a well-stocked grocery store, some pharmacies, health food stores, sports/nutrition stores, or online.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Aim to lose 1 to 2 pounds per week\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Safe weight loss is considered losing about 1 or 2 pounds per week.\", \"描述\": \"Losing weight faster increases your risk for muscle mass loss.\\nIt's generally recommended to never consume less than 1200 calories daily. Calories that are too low for your age, gender, or activity level put you at risk for muscle mass loss as you're not consuming adequate nutrients for your body to function normally.\\nLosing 1-2 pounds per week results from cutting out about 500 calories daily. Do not cut out more than this.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Slow and steady weight loss is the best approach to maintaining lean muscle mass while dieting.\\n\", \"Also speak to your doctor prior to starting a new exercise routine.\\n\", \"Prior to making any changes to your diet, always speak with your doctor first. They will be able to tell you what's safe and appropriate for you.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,716 |
How to Burn Fat and Build Muscle
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1. Optimizing Your Diet
1-1. Go high-protein.
Yeah, you've heard this one before, and there's a reason for it. Protein is made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of your muscles. Without it, your muscles will literally not develop. While you should never completely cut out anything from your diet, to force those fats and carbs to move over, it's protein packing time.
1-1.5g of protein per lb of body weight is recommended to facilitate muscle building. Good sources of the stuff are soy, legumes, beans, leafy vegetables, meat, eggs, and plant milks. One of these should have a staple of every meal.
Your body burns carbs, fats, and then protein, in that order. So when you eat that bowl of cereal prior to your workout, your body burns off the cereal. But when you have that egg for breakfast, your body has to go for your fat storage instead. This knowledge will make your workouts more effective.
1-2. Cycle your carb intake.
All this "no carb" mumbo jumbo is just that—mumbo jumbo. Yeah, carbs are what creates that extra weight around your midsection, but they do serve their purpose (at least the good ones). They are your body's primary source of energy. If you cut carbs out of your diet completely, your metabolism will drop (and if you're male, your testosterone levels will drop too).
To circumvent this problem, the simplest answer is to cycle your carb intake. This keeps your body guessing, your metabolism up, and for the majority of the time your body is concentrating on your fat storages. This can be done in two ways.
Go low-carb for a few days, then consume a moderate amount for a day or two, and then go high-carb to round out the week.
Go low-carb for a few weeks, and then go high-carb for a solid week. This takes extra diligence!
For the record, brown rice, wild rice, sweet potatoes, whole wheat bread, wheat pasta, vegetables, and some fruits are great sources of good carbs. Processed junk and pretty much anything white is not!
1-3. Aim for the good fats.
Yes, fats have their place, too. They can keep you feeling full, stabilize your insulin levels, and keep you energized. You don't want to drown in them, but you do want them to be a small part of your everyday diet.
Avocados, walnuts, almonds, olive oil, natural peanut butter, some egg yolks, and sunflower seeds are the fats that you don't want to be cutting out of your diet. Just eat them in moderation!
1-4. Time your meals.
While what you eat won't affect how many calories you burn during your workout, it will affect what kind of calories your body burns. And we want to burn those fat calories, so here are your options:
If you work out in the morning, work out prior to breakfast. Your body will go straight to the fat stores. However, a cup of plain coffee won't hurt (and we'll get to why next).
If you work out in the afternoon or evening, have your pre-workout meal 2-3 hours before your workout and have that meal be low in simple (bad) carbs. It's the same concept—you want your body entering "fasting" mode.Always be careful when working out on an empty stomach. If you start to feel dizzy, stop.
1-5. Consume caffeine prior to your workout.
At last! An excuse to drink coffee and nibble on dark chocolate! Research has shown that those who ingest caffeine prior to a workout burn more fat calories. You don't want to go overboard, but it's worth drinking a cup of coffee (as black as possible) or munching on an ounce of dark chocolate for!
Looking for a reason why? There's two: first, coffee stimulates the nervous system, raises the metabolism, and tells your body to start breaking down its fat stores. Second, it increases levels of Epinephrine -- the source of that elusive adrenaline rush.
Always be careful with this. It can make you dizzy or nauseated, especially if you drink only coffee prior to your workout.
1-6. Drink water
This is just good advice for anyone. It clears your skin, helps your organs, keeps you energized, and can help you lose weight. Your muscles need to stay hydrated to keep going. So drink up! When you wake, when you go to sleep, and with every snack and meal.
Just keep a bottle with you. Drink from it absent-mindedly. You'll feel fuller, too, resulting in the pounds falling off without any real work on your part.
2. Optimizing Your Workout
2-1. Time your workouts.
You want to time your meals around your workouts and you want to time your workouts around your meals. What you should take from is that your body burns more calories on an empty stomach. So if you're able to work out in the morning, do so. What's more, your metabolism will be heightened for the rest of the day and you'll feel more energized in general.
But if you do have to work out in the evening (as many of us do), don't load yourself down with food directly beforehand. Wait 2 to 3 hours if you can.
One more time: If you work out on an empty stomach, you risk feeling dizzy and getting nauseated. If you don't know how your body does on this, ease your way into it. And if you do start feeling the effects, take it easy. Do not hurt yourself.
2-2. Strength train
You won't get those muscles just from cardio, grasshopper. You gotta pump that iron. Some common lifts are bench press, squats and deadlifts. Try to work all your muscle groups evenly for an all-over, toned look.
Stick to the chest one day, legs the next, shoulders the day after that, etc. Add small lifts like bicep curls, pull ups and push ups to your chest workouts. On days where you are working on your legs you can add small workouts such as riding a stationary bike and playing basketball.
2-3. Cross train
The next few steps are about avoiding that dreaded plateau. The first key to that? Cross training. That means putting your body through the paces—sitting at one machine all day isn't going to do you any favors. You want to develop your muscles inside and out, and that means working them at all angles, speeds, and durations.
You need a break from weights anyway (your muscles need time to heal themselves), so throw a day of plyometrics in there. Go hiking. Swim. Do something that works a different part of your body or skill. If you can only do one thing well, you're not truly fit!
2-4. Modify your rest periods.
Rest is like the space between words. Without it, the words might as well be useless. But to truly utilize that space, mix it up. Have two-a-days. Skip a day and just take the dog for a walk. Or think more on a micro-level and do interval training. Whatever it is, keep your body not knowing when the next burst of energy is going to be needed. Your metabolism stays up, alert, and ready to go when you give it the whistle.
If you haven't gotten into interval training yet, give it a try. Many believe the key to losing weight is high intense, staggered training. Sprints on a treadmill work -- try raising the incline to make it more intense. Plyometrics are also a highly effective workout. Ho high knee jumps for 30 seconds, up and downs and jump rope for another 30 seconds for a good mix.
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2-5. Vary your workout load.
If you want to build more muscle, you'll need to be ever increasing what you expect of your body. But the important thing here is not to do more than you can handle. Never, ever, ever increase more than 10% from any workout to the next. You will hurt yourself. Being down for the count is the quickest way not to get the results you want!
Always include warming up, stretching, and cooling down as part of your workout. If you do a workout and do not stretch, you risk pulling a muscle and possibly priming yourself for more serious injury. Stretch out all muscles you work out; using resistance bands and a partner help a lot. Stretching will also help with your flexibility and make you feel better in general.
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3. Staying Determined
3-1. Get motivated
This is where it all starts: with you. You cannot start a workout schedule without being 100% motivated and dedicated. Try to write self reminders to keep yourself motivated. Stick them around your house, in your planner, wherever you think they might be helpful. Things like "five more lbs!" etc. can be just that last bit of motivation you need.
It's one thing to want to lose weight; it's another to want to lose weight and build muscle. It's going to take a lot of work on your diet and a lot of discipline in the gym, but it is doable. Motivation will be key as this won't be something that happens overnight. Be patient, stick to your plan, and you'll see results.
3-2. Write out a formal schedule for your workouts.
Going from work to school to the house, our everyday planners can be quite busy. If you are going to get that body it is critical that you write out a schedule that you can physically look at. This helps you plan out your day and not find yourself "having no time for the gym." You should plan on going to the gym about four times a week.
That 4x a week thing is for strength training. Feel free to do cardio more, but know that cardio can deplete your calories, which are necessary to build muscle mass. So do stay active, but don't kill yourself over it. That's self-defeating to the max.
3-3. Plan out your meals.
It's fairly simple to go the gym. You drive there. You throw on your headphones. You start working out. You leave. But for meals? You wander into the grocery store. You stare at the aisles. You leave having succumbed to impulse buys. Don't do that! Plan your meals ahead of time, stick to your dieting regimen, and to your budget!
This is probably going to involve some cooking. The only way to truly know what goes into your food is to prepare it yourself. So load up your shopping cart with lean meats, eggs, oatmeal, veggies, tofu, berries, low-fat dairy products, and nuts. Then get home and work out what you can create the next few days. No stress necessary.
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3-4. Keep a journal.
This should be for your workouts and your diet—especially if you're aiming for some muddled up low/med/high carb routine and throwing cross-training into the mix. Eventually, you just forget where you are on your path to awesome. And if you add your weight/measurements in there you can see your progress to boot.
If you have a trainer or a friend that can hold you accountable, this is a good way to streamline the process. Instead of sitting down with them and going over your diet and activity, you just hand them the book. Knowing someone else is judging you is super good motivation to staying on track!
3-5. Find a friend.
Aside from holding you accountable like just mentioned, they can keep your spirits up too. When a friend is meeting you at the gym, not only do you feel pressured to go but you know that the gym time will be more enjoyable as well. And if you can diet together it'll be that much easier. Dieting and still being social is half the battle!
Tips
Try taking before and after pictures of yourself to see the physical change in your body, this will help you stay motivated and track the changes before and after.
Do your research on protein powders and supplements before you take them. Many, if not all, are jokes and sometimes even dangerous and can cause harm.
Warnings
If you are on any medications for blood pressure or heart problems, consult a doctor before working out to avoid further complications.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:29",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Optimizing Your Diet\\n1-1. Go high-protein.\\nYeah, you've heard this one before, and there's a reason for it. Protein is made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of your muscles. Without it, your muscles will literally not develop. While you should never completely cut out anything from your diet, to force those fats and carbs to move over, it's protein packing time. \\n1-1.5g of protein per lb of body weight is recommended to facilitate muscle building. Good sources of the stuff are soy, legumes, beans, leafy vegetables, meat, eggs, and plant milks. One of these should have a staple of every meal.\\nYour body burns carbs, fats, and then protein, in that order. So when you eat that bowl of cereal prior to your workout, your body burns off the cereal. But when you have that egg for breakfast, your body has to go for your fat storage instead. This knowledge will make your workouts more effective.\\n1-2. Cycle your carb intake.\\nAll this \\\"no carb\\\" mumbo jumbo is just that—mumbo jumbo. Yeah, carbs are what creates that extra weight around your midsection, but they do serve their purpose (at least the good ones). They are your body's primary source of energy. If you cut carbs out of your diet completely, your metabolism will drop (and if you're male, your testosterone levels will drop too).\\nTo circumvent this problem, the simplest answer is to cycle your carb intake. This keeps your body guessing, your metabolism up, and for the majority of the time your body is concentrating on your fat storages. This can be done in two ways.\\nGo low-carb for a few days, then consume a moderate amount for a day or two, and then go high-carb to round out the week.\\nGo low-carb for a few weeks, and then go high-carb for a solid week. This takes extra diligence!\\n\\nFor the record, brown rice, wild rice, sweet potatoes, whole wheat bread, wheat pasta, vegetables, and some fruits are great sources of good carbs. Processed junk and pretty much anything white is not!\\n1-3. Aim for the good fats.\\nYes, fats have their place, too. They can keep you feeling full, stabilize your insulin levels, and keep you energized. You don't want to drown in them, but you do want them to be a small part of your everyday diet.\\nAvocados, walnuts, almonds, olive oil, natural peanut butter, some egg yolks, and sunflower seeds are the fats that you don't want to be cutting out of your diet. Just eat them in moderation!\\n1-4. Time your meals.\\nWhile what you eat won't affect how many calories you burn during your workout, it will affect what kind of calories your body burns. And we want to burn those fat calories, so here are your options:\\nIf you work out in the morning, work out prior to breakfast. Your body will go straight to the fat stores. However, a cup of plain coffee won't hurt (and we'll get to why next).\\nIf you work out in the afternoon or evening, have your pre-workout meal 2-3 hours before your workout and have that meal be low in simple (bad) carbs. It's the same concept—you want your body entering \\\"fasting\\\" mode.Always be careful when working out on an empty stomach. If you start to feel dizzy, stop.\\n1-5. Consume caffeine prior to your workout.\\nAt last! An excuse to drink coffee and nibble on dark chocolate! Research has shown that those who ingest caffeine prior to a workout burn more fat calories. You don't want to go overboard, but it's worth drinking a cup of coffee (as black as possible) or munching on an ounce of dark chocolate for!\\nLooking for a reason why? There's two: first, coffee stimulates the nervous system, raises the metabolism, and tells your body to start breaking down its fat stores. Second, it increases levels of Epinephrine -- the source of that elusive adrenaline rush.\\nAlways be careful with this. It can make you dizzy or nauseated, especially if you drink only coffee prior to your workout.\\n1-6. Drink water\\nThis is just good advice for anyone. It clears your skin, helps your organs, keeps you energized, and can help you lose weight. Your muscles need to stay hydrated to keep going. So drink up! When you wake, when you go to sleep, and with every snack and meal.\\nJust keep a bottle with you. Drink from it absent-mindedly. You'll feel fuller, too, resulting in the pounds falling off without any real work on your part.\\n2. Optimizing Your Workout\\n2-1. Time your workouts.\\nYou want to time your meals around your workouts and you want to time your workouts around your meals. What you should take from is that your body burns more calories on an empty stomach. So if you're able to work out in the morning, do so. What's more, your metabolism will be heightened for the rest of the day and you'll feel more energized in general.\\nBut if you do have to work out in the evening (as many of us do), don't load yourself down with food directly beforehand. Wait 2 to 3 hours if you can.\\nOne more time: If you work out on an empty stomach, you risk feeling dizzy and getting nauseated. If you don't know how your body does on this, ease your way into it. And if you do start feeling the effects, take it easy. Do not hurt yourself.\\n2-2. Strength train\\nYou won't get those muscles just from cardio, grasshopper. You gotta pump that iron. Some common lifts are bench press, squats and deadlifts. Try to work all your muscle groups evenly for an all-over, toned look.\\nStick to the chest one day, legs the next, shoulders the day after that, etc. Add small lifts like bicep curls, pull ups and push ups to your chest workouts. On days where you are working on your legs you can add small workouts such as riding a stationary bike and playing basketball.\\n2-3. Cross train\\nThe next few steps are about avoiding that dreaded plateau. The first key to that? Cross training. That means putting your body through the paces—sitting at one machine all day isn't going to do you any favors. You want to develop your muscles inside and out, and that means working them at all angles, speeds, and durations.\\nYou need a break from weights anyway (your muscles need time to heal themselves), so throw a day of plyometrics in there. Go hiking. Swim. Do something that works a different part of your body or skill. If you can only do one thing well, you're not truly fit!\\n2-4. Modify your rest periods.\\nRest is like the space between words. Without it, the words might as well be useless. But to truly utilize that space, mix it up. Have two-a-days. Skip a day and just take the dog for a walk. Or think more on a micro-level and do interval training. Whatever it is, keep your body not knowing when the next burst of energy is going to be needed. Your metabolism stays up, alert, and ready to go when you give it the whistle.\\nIf you haven't gotten into interval training yet, give it a try. Many believe the key to losing weight is high intense, staggered training. Sprints on a treadmill work -- try raising the incline to make it more intense. Plyometrics are also a highly effective workout. Ho high knee jumps for 30 seconds, up and downs and jump rope for another 30 seconds for a good mix.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n2-5. Vary your workout load.\\nIf you want to build more muscle, you'll need to be ever increasing what you expect of your body. But the important thing here is not to do more than you can handle. Never, ever, ever increase more than 10% from any workout to the next. You will hurt yourself. Being down for the count is the quickest way not to get the results you want!\\nAlways include warming up, stretching, and cooling down as part of your workout. If you do a workout and do not stretch, you risk pulling a muscle and possibly priming yourself for more serious injury. Stretch out all muscles you work out; using resistance bands and a partner help a lot. Stretching will also help with your flexibility and make you feel better in general.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d8\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d8\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3. Staying Determined\\n3-1. Get motivated\\nThis is where it all starts: with you. You cannot start a workout schedule without being 100% motivated and dedicated. Try to write self reminders to keep yourself motivated. Stick them around your house, in your planner, wherever you think they might be helpful. Things like \\\"five more lbs!\\\" etc. can be just that last bit of motivation you need.\\nIt's one thing to want to lose weight; it's another to want to lose weight and build muscle. It's going to take a lot of work on your diet and a lot of discipline in the gym, but it is doable. Motivation will be key as this won't be something that happens overnight. Be patient, stick to your plan, and you'll see results.\\n3-2. Write out a formal schedule for your workouts.\\nGoing from work to school to the house, our everyday planners can be quite busy. If you are going to get that body it is critical that you write out a schedule that you can physically look at. This helps you plan out your day and not find yourself \\\"having no time for the gym.\\\" You should plan on going to the gym about four times a week.\\nThat 4x a week thing is for strength training. Feel free to do cardio more, but know that cardio can deplete your calories, which are necessary to build muscle mass. So do stay active, but don't kill yourself over it. That's self-defeating to the max.\\n3-3. Plan out your meals.\\nIt's fairly simple to go the gym. You drive there. You throw on your headphones. You start working out. You leave. But for meals? You wander into the grocery store. You stare at the aisles. You leave having succumbed to impulse buys. Don't do that! Plan your meals ahead of time, stick to your dieting regimen, and to your budget!\\nThis is probably going to involve some cooking. The only way to truly know what goes into your food is to prepare it yourself. So load up your shopping cart with lean meats, eggs, oatmeal, veggies, tofu, berries, low-fat dairy products, and nuts. Then get home and work out what you can create the next few days. No stress necessary.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9c\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9c\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3-4. Keep a journal.\\nThis should be for your workouts and your diet—especially if you're aiming for some muddled up low/med/high carb routine and throwing cross-training into the mix. Eventually, you just forget where you are on your path to awesome. And if you add your weight/measurements in there you can see your progress to boot.\\nIf you have a trainer or a friend that can hold you accountable, this is a good way to streamline the process. Instead of sitting down with them and going over your diet and activity, you just hand them the book. Knowing someone else is judging you is super good motivation to staying on track!\\n3-5. Find a friend.\\nAside from holding you accountable like just mentioned, they can keep your spirits up too. When a friend is meeting you at the gym, not only do you feel pressured to go but you know that the gym time will be more enjoyable as well. And if you can diet together it'll be that much easier. Dieting and still being social is half the battle!\\nTips\\nTry taking before and after pictures of yourself to see the physical change in your body, this will help you stay motivated and track the changes before and after.\\nDo your research on protein powders and supplements before you take them. Many, if not all, are jokes and sometimes even dangerous and can cause harm.\\nWarnings\\nIf you are on any medications for blood pressure or heart problems, consult a doctor before working out to avoid further complications.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"People all across the world try countless diets and workout plans, only to find that they never get the results they are looking for. Whether you want a sculpted body or bulging muscles, one thing is for sure: you want something that works. In this article you will find that burning fat and building muscle is possible, but in order for it to work you will need to push yourself to your maximum potential and be ready to make some changes. Are you ready?\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Optimizing Your Diet\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go high-protein.\", \"描述\": \"Yeah, you've heard this one before, and there's a reason for it. Protein is made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of your muscles. Without it, your muscles will literally not develop. While you should never completely cut out anything from your diet, to force those fats and carbs to move over, it's protein packing time. \\n1-1.5g of protein per lb of body weight is recommended to facilitate muscle building. Good sources of the stuff are soy, legumes, beans, leafy vegetables, meat, eggs, and plant milks. One of these should have a staple of every meal.\\nYour body burns carbs, fats, and then protein, in that order. So when you eat that bowl of cereal prior to your workout, your body burns off the cereal. But when you have that egg for breakfast, your body has to go for your fat storage instead. This knowledge will make your workouts more effective.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cycle your carb intake.\", \"描述\": \"All this \\\"no carb\\\" mumbo jumbo is just that—mumbo jumbo. Yeah, carbs are what creates that extra weight around your midsection, but they do serve their purpose (at least the good ones). They are your body's primary source of energy. If you cut carbs out of your diet completely, your metabolism will drop (and if you're male, your testosterone levels will drop too).\\nTo circumvent this problem, the simplest answer is to cycle your carb intake. This keeps your body guessing, your metabolism up, and for the majority of the time your body is concentrating on your fat storages. This can be done in two ways.\\nGo low-carb for a few days, then consume a moderate amount for a day or two, and then go high-carb to round out the week.\\nGo low-carb for a few weeks, and then go high-carb for a solid week. This takes extra diligence!\\n\\nFor the record, brown rice, wild rice, sweet potatoes, whole wheat bread, wheat pasta, vegetables, and some fruits are great sources of good carbs. Processed junk and pretty much anything white is not!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Aim for the good fats.\", \"描述\": \"Yes, fats have their place, too. They can keep you feeling full, stabilize your insulin levels, and keep you energized. You don't want to drown in them, but you do want them to be a small part of your everyday diet.\\nAvocados, walnuts, almonds, olive oil, natural peanut butter, some egg yolks, and sunflower seeds are the fats that you don't want to be cutting out of your diet. Just eat them in moderation!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Time your meals.\", \"描述\": \"While what you eat won't affect how many calories you burn during your workout, it will affect what kind of calories your body burns. And we want to burn those fat calories, so here are your options:\\nIf you work out in the morning, work out prior to breakfast. Your body will go straight to the fat stores. However, a cup of plain coffee won't hurt (and we'll get to why next).\\nIf you work out in the afternoon or evening, have your pre-workout meal 2-3 hours before your workout and have that meal be low in simple (bad) carbs. It's the same concept—you want your body entering \\\"fasting\\\" mode.Always be careful when working out on an empty stomach. If you start to feel dizzy, stop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consume caffeine prior to your workout.\", \"描述\": \"At last! An excuse to drink coffee and nibble on dark chocolate! Research has shown that those who ingest caffeine prior to a workout burn more fat calories. You don't want to go overboard, but it's worth drinking a cup of coffee (as black as possible) or munching on an ounce of dark chocolate for!\\nLooking for a reason why? There's two: first, coffee stimulates the nervous system, raises the metabolism, and tells your body to start breaking down its fat stores. Second, it increases levels of Epinephrine -- the source of that elusive adrenaline rush.\\nAlways be careful with this. It can make you dizzy or nauseated, especially if you drink only coffee prior to your workout.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drink water\", \"描述\": \"This is just good advice for anyone. It clears your skin, helps your organs, keeps you energized, and can help you lose weight. Your muscles need to stay hydrated to keep going. So drink up! When you wake, when you go to sleep, and with every snack and meal.\\nJust keep a bottle with you. Drink from it absent-mindedly. You'll feel fuller, too, resulting in the pounds falling off without any real work on your part.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Optimizing Your Workout\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Time your workouts.\", \"描述\": \"You want to time your meals around your workouts and you want to time your workouts around your meals. What you should take from is that your body burns more calories on an empty stomach. So if you're able to work out in the morning, do so. What's more, your metabolism will be heightened for the rest of the day and you'll feel more energized in general.\\nBut if you do have to work out in the evening (as many of us do), don't load yourself down with food directly beforehand. Wait 2 to 3 hours if you can.\\nOne more time: If you work out on an empty stomach, you risk feeling dizzy and getting nauseated. If you don't know how your body does on this, ease your way into it. And if you do start feeling the effects, take it easy. Do not hurt yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Strength train\", \"描述\": \"You won't get those muscles just from cardio, grasshopper. You gotta pump that iron. Some common lifts are bench press, squats and deadlifts. Try to work all your muscle groups evenly for an all-over, toned look.\\nStick to the chest one day, legs the next, shoulders the day after that, etc. Add small lifts like bicep curls, pull ups and push ups to your chest workouts. On days where you are working on your legs you can add small workouts such as riding a stationary bike and playing basketball.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cross train\", \"描述\": \"The next few steps are about avoiding that dreaded plateau. The first key to that? Cross training. That means putting your body through the paces—sitting at one machine all day isn't going to do you any favors. You want to develop your muscles inside and out, and that means working them at all angles, speeds, and durations.\\nYou need a break from weights anyway (your muscles need time to heal themselves), so throw a day of plyometrics in there. Go hiking. Swim. Do something that works a different part of your body or skill. If you can only do one thing well, you're not truly fit!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Modify your rest periods.\", \"描述\": \"Rest is like the space between words. Without it, the words might as well be useless. But to truly utilize that space, mix it up. Have two-a-days. Skip a day and just take the dog for a walk. Or think more on a micro-level and do interval training. Whatever it is, keep your body not knowing when the next burst of energy is going to be needed. Your metabolism stays up, alert, and ready to go when you give it the whistle.\\nIf you haven't gotten into interval training yet, give it a try. Many believe the key to losing weight is high intense, staggered training. Sprints on a treadmill work -- try raising the incline to make it more intense. Plyometrics are also a highly effective workout. Ho high knee jumps for 30 seconds, up and downs and jump rope for another 30 seconds for a good mix.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a4\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-10Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Vary your workout load.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to build more muscle, you'll need to be ever increasing what you expect of your body. But the important thing here is not to do more than you can handle. Never, ever, ever increase more than 10% from any workout to the next. You will hurt yourself. Being down for the count is the quickest way not to get the results you want!\\nAlways include warming up, stretching, and cooling down as part of your workout. If you do a workout and do not stretch, you risk pulling a muscle and possibly priming yourself for more serious injury. Stretch out all muscles you work out; using resistance bands and a partner help a lot. Stretching will also help with your flexibility and make you feel better in general.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d8\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/d8\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-11Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Staying Determined\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get motivated\", \"描述\": \"This is where it all starts: with you. You cannot start a workout schedule without being 100% motivated and dedicated. Try to write self reminders to keep yourself motivated. Stick them around your house, in your planner, wherever you think they might be helpful. Things like \\\"five more lbs!\\\" etc. can be just that last bit of motivation you need.\\nIt's one thing to want to lose weight; it's another to want to lose weight and build muscle. It's going to take a lot of work on your diet and a lot of discipline in the gym, but it is doable. Motivation will be key as this won't be something that happens overnight. Be patient, stick to your plan, and you'll see results.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Write out a formal schedule for your workouts.\", \"描述\": \"Going from work to school to the house, our everyday planners can be quite busy. If you are going to get that body it is critical that you write out a schedule that you can physically look at. This helps you plan out your day and not find yourself \\\"having no time for the gym.\\\" You should plan on going to the gym about four times a week.\\nThat 4x a week thing is for strength training. Feel free to do cardio more, but know that cardio can deplete your calories, which are necessary to build muscle mass. So do stay active, but don't kill yourself over it. That's self-defeating to the max.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan out your meals.\", \"描述\": \"It's fairly simple to go the gym. You drive there. You throw on your headphones. You start working out. You leave. But for meals? You wander into the grocery store. You stare at the aisles. You leave having succumbed to impulse buys. Don't do that! Plan your meals ahead of time, stick to your dieting regimen, and to your budget!\\nThis is probably going to involve some cooking. The only way to truly know what goes into your food is to prepare it yourself. So load up your shopping cart with lean meats, eggs, oatmeal, veggies, tofu, berries, low-fat dairy products, and nuts. Then get home and work out what you can create the next few days. No stress necessary.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9c\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9c\\\\/Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\\/aid1823051-v4-728px-Burn-Fat-and-Build-Muscle-Step-14Bullet01.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep a journal.\", \"描述\": \"This should be for your workouts and your diet—especially if you're aiming for some muddled up low/med/high carb routine and throwing cross-training into the mix. Eventually, you just forget where you are on your path to awesome. And if you add your weight/measurements in there you can see your progress to boot.\\nIf you have a trainer or a friend that can hold you accountable, this is a good way to streamline the process. Instead of sitting down with them and going over your diet and activity, you just hand them the book. Knowing someone else is judging you is super good motivation to staying on track!\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Find a friend.\", \"描述\": \"Aside from holding you accountable like just mentioned, they can keep your spirits up too. When a friend is meeting you at the gym, not only do you feel pressured to go but you know that the gym time will be more enjoyable as well. And if you can diet together it'll be that much easier. Dieting and still being social is half the battle!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try taking before and after pictures of yourself to see the physical change in your body, this will help you stay motivated and track the changes before and after.\\n\", \"Do your research on protein powders and supplements before you take them. Many, if not all, are jokes and sometimes even dangerous and can cause harm.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you are on any medications for blood pressure or heart problems, consult a doctor before working out to avoid further complications.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
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wikihow
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7,717 |
How to Burn Fat at Home
|
1. Drink more green tea.
Drinking 3-5 cups a day may increase the fat your body burns.
Green tea is loaded with antioxidants that are good for your health in general, but it also contains a compound called EGCG, which can help reduce fat absorption from your diet. Green tea can also help increase the fat that your body burns. Ditch the coffee and reach for the green tea if you need a little pick-me-up.
Green tea does have some caffeine in it, which is great if you need a little energy burst, but may cause you to have trouble getting to sleep if you drink it late at night.
2. Take a vitamin D supplement.
Studies suggest it can help you lose weight.
Your body naturally makes vitamin D from sunlight, but you can’t get any from your diet. Vitamin D helps boost the effectiveness of a hormone called leptin, which tells your brain that you’re full when you’re eating. Take a daily vitamin D supplement to give your body a boost and make sure you have enough.
Many health experts recommend taking 1,000 IU of vitamin D every day.
3. Exercise for at least 20 minutes 2-3 times a week.
You don’t have to spend hours to get a good workout in.
Life can get hectic! Between work, cooking, cleaning, and managing your household, it can feel almost impossible to squeeze in time to exercise. Start small and make it a priority to get at least 20-30 minutes of physical activity 2-3 times a week. The more you do it, the easier it’ll become as you develop a new habit.
Find a time that works best for you and stick to it. For instance, if you have a little bit of free time after you drop the kids off at school, get some exercise! You can also try to start early in the morning or right after work—whatever is most convenient for you.
4. Go for a nice walk for a simple exercise.
You don’t have to break a sweat to help burn fat.
Exercise doesn’t have to always involve super difficult workouts with bands, weights, and all sorts of other contraptions. Walking is easy, free, and you don’t need any special equipment. Take a walk around your neighborhood or find a scenic place such as a park to get out and stretch your legs.
Bring some headphones and listen to some music or check out a podcast while you’re at it!
5. Do HIIT to put your body in a fat-burning phase.
High-intensity interval training (HIIT) burns fat and builds muscle.
HIIT workouts alternate between short bursts of intense exercise and brief periods of rest. You can do HIIT workouts at home with little to no equipment. HIIT actually triggers your body to burn more stored fat and activate muscle-building hormones at the same time. It’s the best of both worlds!
You can create a simple HIIT workout by choosing a few of your favorite exercises such as jumping jacks, squats, pushups, or situps. Do as many as you can for 20 seconds, rest for 10 seconds, and then repeat the exercise for 4-5 rounds before moving to a different exercise.
6. Build more muscle by lifting weights.
Use muscle-building exercises to help boost lipolysis.
Lipolysis is the process of burning fat for energy and cardio alone won’t help you get rid of more stored body fat. Lifting weights builds muscle which means your body will burn more fat to fuel your muscles. Get yourself some free weights and mix in 2-3 muscle-building workouts a week.
Some of the classic lifts like the deadlift, squat, and bench press are classics for a reason—they work. Work with a trainer or an experienced partner to make sure you use the right form when you do them.
If you’re new to weight lifting, take it slow. You’ll get better (and stronger) in time, and you don’t want to injure yourself by using poor form and technique.
7. Switch up your workout routine regularly.
Keep your exercise interesting and keep your body from adapting.
Shake things up after a few weeks and swap out different exercises in your workouts. It’ll keep your muscles confused and working hard and it’ll help keep your workouts from becoming boring.
For instance, if you’ve been doing an HIIT workout with lots of pushups and squats, try swapping them out for something like pullups and lunges.
Change up your weight lifting exercises, too. For example, try switching from flat bench press to incline bench press to keep challenging your muscles.
8. Make gradual, healthy dietary changes.
Reduce your calories slowly to avoid slowing down your metabolism.
If you’re anxious and ready to start burning fat, it can be tempting to want to drastically cut back your calories. However, it could actually make your body store even more fat because it thinks it’s starving. Instead, make slow, gradual changes and try to cut about 500 calories a day.
For example, instead of completely cutting out all carbs, try switching to healthier sources such as brown rice and sweet potatoes so you aren’t starving yourself.
9. Follow a low-carb diet.
A healthy diet can help you burn fat and keep muscle.
Get started on a low-carb diet by cutting out refined sugars and switching from simple carbs like white bread, white rice, and potatoes to whole grains such as brown rice and oatmeal. You can also try swapping out carb sources such as rice and pasta with low-carb alternatives like cauliflower rice and zucchini noodles. As you reduce your carb intake, your body will burn stored fat as energy.
10. Focus on getting more protein in your diet.
Protein will help you feel more full and satisfied.
Which can be really helpful while you’re trying to improve your diet to burn fat. Plus, protein helps build and maintain muscle, which can help prevent you from losing muscle mass as you lose weight. Focus on lean protein sources such as chicken, tofu, lean ground beef, and egg whites.
For instance, if you weigh 150 pounds (68 kg), aim to get at least 150 grams of protein.
11. Eat 6 smaller meals throughout the day.
Avoid eating 2-3 large meals to keep your metabolism up.
While it’s traditional and common to eat three meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), if you’re trying to burn fat by following a healthier diet, your body can actually try to store more fat if there’s too much time in between meals. Spread out your daily food into 6 smaller meals spaced out throughout your day. That way, you’ll always have fuel and your metabolism will keep firing away.
The more active your metabolism, the more fat your body will burn.
12. Avoid eating processed foods.
Snack foods are often loaded in fat, sugar, and added salt.
Junk food, candy, chips, and other forms of processed snack food are a recipe for disaster if you’re trying to burn fat. Try to steer clear of them entirely and swap them out with healthy alternatives such as fruit or nuts. Your body will thank you for it.
You can also check for healthy snacks that aren’t chock full of oil and sugar as well.
It may be helpful to avoid keeping junk food in your home so you aren’t tempted if you’re feeling peckish.
13. Try to chew each bite at least 40 times.
It can aid in digestion and make you feel more full.
When you’re hungry, you may not put any extra thought into how much you’re chewing your food. But chewing is super important! It helps break down the food so your body is better able to digest it, plus it slows you down while you eat, which can help you feel fuller faster. Take your time and chew each bite well.
Try counting each chew or sing a song such as “Happy Birthday” or the ABCs while you chew each bite.
Tips
Don’t worry so much about the numbers on the scale. Instead, pay attention to how your clothes are fitting you as you start burning fat and losing weight to see the real changes you want.
Warnings
Many dietary products that claim to burn fat may be more hype than substance. Some of them could be harmful for you. Check with your doctor before you start using any weight loss products or supplements, especially if you have an underlying medical condition such as diabetes or heart disease.
If you’re struggling with an eating disorder, you don’t have to deal with it alone. Reach out to a counselor, therapist, or doctor for help.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Drink more green tea.\\nDrinking 3-5 cups a day may increase the fat your body burns.\\nGreen tea is loaded with antioxidants that are good for your health in general, but it also contains a compound called EGCG, which can help reduce fat absorption from your diet. Green tea can also help increase the fat that your body burns. Ditch the coffee and reach for the green tea if you need a little pick-me-up.\\nGreen tea does have some caffeine in it, which is great if you need a little energy burst, but may cause you to have trouble getting to sleep if you drink it late at night.\\n2. Take a vitamin D supplement.\\nStudies suggest it can help you lose weight.\\nYour body naturally makes vitamin D from sunlight, but you can’t get any from your diet. Vitamin D helps boost the effectiveness of a hormone called leptin, which tells your brain that you’re full when you’re eating. Take a daily vitamin D supplement to give your body a boost and make sure you have enough.\\nMany health experts recommend taking 1,000 IU of vitamin D every day.\\n3. Exercise for at least 20 minutes 2-3 times a week.\\nYou don’t have to spend hours to get a good workout in.\\nLife can get hectic! Between work, cooking, cleaning, and managing your household, it can feel almost impossible to squeeze in time to exercise. Start small and make it a priority to get at least 20-30 minutes of physical activity 2-3 times a week. The more you do it, the easier it’ll become as you develop a new habit.\\nFind a time that works best for you and stick to it. For instance, if you have a little bit of free time after you drop the kids off at school, get some exercise! You can also try to start early in the morning or right after work—whatever is most convenient for you.\\n4. Go for a nice walk for a simple exercise.\\nYou don’t have to break a sweat to help burn fat.\\nExercise doesn’t have to always involve super difficult workouts with bands, weights, and all sorts of other contraptions. Walking is easy, free, and you don’t need any special equipment. Take a walk around your neighborhood or find a scenic place such as a park to get out and stretch your legs.\\nBring some headphones and listen to some music or check out a podcast while you’re at it!\\n5. Do HIIT to put your body in a fat-burning phase.\\nHigh-intensity interval training (HIIT) burns fat and builds muscle.\\nHIIT workouts alternate between short bursts of intense exercise and brief periods of rest. You can do HIIT workouts at home with little to no equipment. HIIT actually triggers your body to burn more stored fat and activate muscle-building hormones at the same time. It’s the best of both worlds!\\nYou can create a simple HIIT workout by choosing a few of your favorite exercises such as jumping jacks, squats, pushups, or situps. Do as many as you can for 20 seconds, rest for 10 seconds, and then repeat the exercise for 4-5 rounds before moving to a different exercise.\\n6. Build more muscle by lifting weights.\\nUse muscle-building exercises to help boost lipolysis.\\nLipolysis is the process of burning fat for energy and cardio alone won’t help you get rid of more stored body fat. Lifting weights builds muscle which means your body will burn more fat to fuel your muscles. Get yourself some free weights and mix in 2-3 muscle-building workouts a week.\\nSome of the classic lifts like the deadlift, squat, and bench press are classics for a reason—they work. Work with a trainer or an experienced partner to make sure you use the right form when you do them.\\nIf you’re new to weight lifting, take it slow. You’ll get better (and stronger) in time, and you don’t want to injure yourself by using poor form and technique.\\n7. Switch up your workout routine regularly.\\nKeep your exercise interesting and keep your body from adapting.\\nShake things up after a few weeks and swap out different exercises in your workouts. It’ll keep your muscles confused and working hard and it’ll help keep your workouts from becoming boring.\\nFor instance, if you’ve been doing an HIIT workout with lots of pushups and squats, try swapping them out for something like pullups and lunges.\\nChange up your weight lifting exercises, too. For example, try switching from flat bench press to incline bench press to keep challenging your muscles.\\n8. Make gradual, healthy dietary changes.\\nReduce your calories slowly to avoid slowing down your metabolism.\\nIf you’re anxious and ready to start burning fat, it can be tempting to want to drastically cut back your calories. However, it could actually make your body store even more fat because it thinks it’s starving. Instead, make slow, gradual changes and try to cut about 500 calories a day.\\nFor example, instead of completely cutting out all carbs, try switching to healthier sources such as brown rice and sweet potatoes so you aren’t starving yourself.\\n9. Follow a low-carb diet.\\nA healthy diet can help you burn fat and keep muscle.\\nGet started on a low-carb diet by cutting out refined sugars and switching from simple carbs like white bread, white rice, and potatoes to whole grains such as brown rice and oatmeal. You can also try swapping out carb sources such as rice and pasta with low-carb alternatives like cauliflower rice and zucchini noodles. As you reduce your carb intake, your body will burn stored fat as energy.\\n10. Focus on getting more protein in your diet.\\nProtein will help you feel more full and satisfied.\\nWhich can be really helpful while you’re trying to improve your diet to burn fat. Plus, protein helps build and maintain muscle, which can help prevent you from losing muscle mass as you lose weight. Focus on lean protein sources such as chicken, tofu, lean ground beef, and egg whites.\\nFor instance, if you weigh 150 pounds (68 kg), aim to get at least 150 grams of protein.\\n11. Eat 6 smaller meals throughout the day.\\nAvoid eating 2-3 large meals to keep your metabolism up.\\nWhile it’s traditional and common to eat three meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), if you’re trying to burn fat by following a healthier diet, your body can actually try to store more fat if there’s too much time in between meals. Spread out your daily food into 6 smaller meals spaced out throughout your day. That way, you’ll always have fuel and your metabolism will keep firing away.\\nThe more active your metabolism, the more fat your body will burn.\\n12. Avoid eating processed foods.\\nSnack foods are often loaded in fat, sugar, and added salt.\\nJunk food, candy, chips, and other forms of processed snack food are a recipe for disaster if you’re trying to burn fat. Try to steer clear of them entirely and swap them out with healthy alternatives such as fruit or nuts. Your body will thank you for it.\\nYou can also check for healthy snacks that aren’t chock full of oil and sugar as well.\\nIt may be helpful to avoid keeping junk food in your home so you aren’t tempted if you’re feeling peckish.\\n13. Try to chew each bite at least 40 times.\\nIt can aid in digestion and make you feel more full.\\nWhen you’re hungry, you may not put any extra thought into how much you’re chewing your food. But chewing is super important! It helps break down the food so your body is better able to digest it, plus it slows you down while you eat, which can help you feel fuller faster. Take your time and chew each bite well.\\nTry counting each chew or sing a song such as “Happy Birthday” or the ABCs while you chew each bite.\\nTips\\nDon’t worry so much about the numbers on the scale. Instead, pay attention to how your clothes are fitting you as you start burning fat and losing weight to see the real changes you want.\\nWarnings\\nMany dietary products that claim to burn fat may be more hype than substance. Some of them could be harmful for you. Check with your doctor before you start using any weight loss products or supplements, especially if you have an underlying medical condition such as diabetes or heart disease.\\nIf you’re struggling with an eating disorder, you don’t have to deal with it alone. Reach out to a counselor, therapist, or doctor for help.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You don’t need a ton of fancy gym equipment or an expensive meal plan to burn fat and lose weight. You can get started right at home! The key is to make gradual changes that you can stick to consistently. To help you out, we’ve put together a nifty list of exercises and dietary changes you can do to start burning fat in the comfort of your own home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drink more green tea.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drinking 3-5 cups a day may increase the fat your body burns.\", \"描述\": \"Green tea is loaded with antioxidants that are good for your health in general, but it also contains a compound called EGCG, which can help reduce fat absorption from your diet. Green tea can also help increase the fat that your body burns. Ditch the coffee and reach for the green tea if you need a little pick-me-up.\\nGreen tea does have some caffeine in it, which is great if you need a little energy burst, but may cause you to have trouble getting to sleep if you drink it late at night.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Take a vitamin D supplement.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Studies suggest it can help you lose weight.\", \"描述\": \"Your body naturally makes vitamin D from sunlight, but you can’t get any from your diet. Vitamin D helps boost the effectiveness of a hormone called leptin, which tells your brain that you’re full when you’re eating. Take a daily vitamin D supplement to give your body a boost and make sure you have enough.\\nMany health experts recommend taking 1,000 IU of vitamin D every day.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Exercise for at least 20 minutes 2-3 times a week.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You don’t have to spend hours to get a good workout in.\", \"描述\": \"Life can get hectic! Between work, cooking, cleaning, and managing your household, it can feel almost impossible to squeeze in time to exercise. Start small and make it a priority to get at least 20-30 minutes of physical activity 2-3 times a week. The more you do it, the easier it’ll become as you develop a new habit.\\nFind a time that works best for you and stick to it. For instance, if you have a little bit of free time after you drop the kids off at school, get some exercise! You can also try to start early in the morning or right after work—whatever is most convenient for you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Go for a nice walk for a simple exercise.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"You don’t have to break a sweat to help burn fat.\", \"描述\": \"Exercise doesn’t have to always involve super difficult workouts with bands, weights, and all sorts of other contraptions. Walking is easy, free, and you don’t need any special equipment. Take a walk around your neighborhood or find a scenic place such as a park to get out and stretch your legs.\\nBring some headphones and listen to some music or check out a podcast while you’re at it!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Do HIIT to put your body in a fat-burning phase.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"High-intensity interval training (HIIT) burns fat and builds muscle.\", \"描述\": \"HIIT workouts alternate between short bursts of intense exercise and brief periods of rest. You can do HIIT workouts at home with little to no equipment. HIIT actually triggers your body to burn more stored fat and activate muscle-building hormones at the same time. It’s the best of both worlds!\\nYou can create a simple HIIT workout by choosing a few of your favorite exercises such as jumping jacks, squats, pushups, or situps. Do as many as you can for 20 seconds, rest for 10 seconds, and then repeat the exercise for 4-5 rounds before moving to a different exercise.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build more muscle by lifting weights.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use muscle-building exercises to help boost lipolysis.\", \"描述\": \"Lipolysis is the process of burning fat for energy and cardio alone won’t help you get rid of more stored body fat. Lifting weights builds muscle which means your body will burn more fat to fuel your muscles. Get yourself some free weights and mix in 2-3 muscle-building workouts a week.\\nSome of the classic lifts like the deadlift, squat, and bench press are classics for a reason—they work. Work with a trainer or an experienced partner to make sure you use the right form when you do them.\\nIf you’re new to weight lifting, take it slow. You’ll get better (and stronger) in time, and you don’t want to injure yourself by using poor form and technique.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Switch up your workout routine regularly.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Keep your exercise interesting and keep your body from adapting.\", \"描述\": \"Shake things up after a few weeks and swap out different exercises in your workouts. It’ll keep your muscles confused and working hard and it’ll help keep your workouts from becoming boring.\\nFor instance, if you’ve been doing an HIIT workout with lots of pushups and squats, try swapping them out for something like pullups and lunges.\\nChange up your weight lifting exercises, too. For example, try switching from flat bench press to incline bench press to keep challenging your muscles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Make gradual, healthy dietary changes.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reduce your calories slowly to avoid slowing down your metabolism.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re anxious and ready to start burning fat, it can be tempting to want to drastically cut back your calories. However, it could actually make your body store even more fat because it thinks it’s starving. Instead, make slow, gradual changes and try to cut about 500 calories a day.\\nFor example, instead of completely cutting out all carbs, try switching to healthier sources such as brown rice and sweet potatoes so you aren’t starving yourself.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Follow a low-carb diet.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"A healthy diet can help you burn fat and keep muscle.\", \"描述\": \"Get started on a low-carb diet by cutting out refined sugars and switching from simple carbs like white bread, white rice, and potatoes to whole grains such as brown rice and oatmeal. You can also try swapping out carb sources such as rice and pasta with low-carb alternatives like cauliflower rice and zucchini noodles. As you reduce your carb intake, your body will burn stored fat as energy.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Focus on getting more protein in your diet.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Protein will help you feel more full and satisfied.\", \"描述\": \"Which can be really helpful while you’re trying to improve your diet to burn fat. Plus, protein helps build and maintain muscle, which can help prevent you from losing muscle mass as you lose weight. Focus on lean protein sources such as chicken, tofu, lean ground beef, and egg whites.\\nFor instance, if you weigh 150 pounds (68 kg), aim to get at least 150 grams of protein.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Eat 6 smaller meals throughout the day.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Avoid eating 2-3 large meals to keep your metabolism up.\", \"描述\": \"While it’s traditional and common to eat three meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), if you’re trying to burn fat by following a healthier diet, your body can actually try to store more fat if there’s too much time in between meals. Spread out your daily food into 6 smaller meals spaced out throughout your day. That way, you’ll always have fuel and your metabolism will keep firing away.\\nThe more active your metabolism, the more fat your body will burn.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Avoid eating processed foods.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Snack foods are often loaded in fat, sugar, and added salt.\", \"描述\": \"Junk food, candy, chips, and other forms of processed snack food are a recipe for disaster if you’re trying to burn fat. Try to steer clear of them entirely and swap them out with healthy alternatives such as fruit or nuts. Your body will thank you for it.\\nYou can also check for healthy snacks that aren’t chock full of oil and sugar as well.\\nIt may be helpful to avoid keeping junk food in your home so you aren’t tempted if you’re feeling peckish.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Try to chew each bite at least 40 times.\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"It can aid in digestion and make you feel more full.\", \"描述\": \"When you’re hungry, you may not put any extra thought into how much you’re chewing your food. But chewing is super important! It helps break down the food so your body is better able to digest it, plus it slows you down while you eat, which can help you feel fuller faster. Take your time and chew each bite well.\\nTry counting each chew or sing a song such as “Happy Birthday” or the ABCs while you chew each bite.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Don’t worry so much about the numbers on the scale. Instead, pay attention to how your clothes are fitting you as you start burning fat and losing weight to see the real changes you want.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Many dietary products that claim to burn fat may be more hype than substance. Some of them could be harmful for you. Check with your doctor before you start using any weight loss products or supplements, especially if you have an underlying medical condition such as diabetes or heart disease.\\n\", \"If you’re struggling with an eating disorder, you don’t have to deal with it alone. Reach out to a counselor, therapist, or doctor for help.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
wikihow
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7,718 |
How to Burn Fat by Running
|
1. Running Distances for Fat Burning
1-1. Develop a running plan.
No matter if you’re a beginner or experienced runner, if you want to burn fat by running it’s a good idea to have a plan how you’ll accomplish the goal. It doesn’t matter if you run fast or slow, just that you are running. You will likely get faster the longer you stick to your program.
Write out a weekly plan for yourself. For example, you could write, “Monday: run 2 miles; Tuesday: run ½ hour; Wednesday: run 1.5 miles; Thursday: run ½ hour; Friday: rest day; Saturday: run 3 miles; Sunday: rest day.” Stick to a flat running surface to start.
Start slowly. Try to gradually build up to half an hour of running by adding three to five minutes to your runs each week. Even if you can only run for a few minutes to start, that’s better than nothing. Set out to run ½ hour five to six days a week and add three to five minutes of running every week until you reach your goal time. You can also set a specific mileage to start, such as two or three miles, or even a mixture of time and distance. Mix shorter distances and times with one long run and a day or two of rest every week. Or, another option is to increase the intensity of your runs, such as by trying to run faster or incorporating a hill or two into your route.
Do your runs any place you feel comfortable. It could be on the road, trails, or even a treadmill. No matter what surface you choose, you’ll get the benefits of burning fat and calories.
1-2. Warm up before runs.
Starting out a run too quickly is a recipe for injury or getting yourself into a pace that is too fast or you can’t sustain. Gradually easing into your run with a gentle warm up can prevent injury and help you run longer.
Do an easy walk for three to five minutes, which loosens your muscles, tendons and joints and prepares them to run. Afterward, jog easily for another three to five minutes before starting to run your usual pace.
1-3. Go the distance.
Once you’ve started your run, stick to your plan of running a specific time or distance. A good rule of thumb to get you through any run is, “you can always run too fast, but you can never run too slow.” Keeping this in mind can help you stay at your pace and focus on getting done.
Take walk breaks if necessary. There is nothing wrong with being too tired or winded, especially if you are just starting out. In fact, walking for a minute or even five in between may help you run for a longer time or distance.
Keep in mind that a big part of running is your mentality. Breaking longer runs down into manageable sections or playing games with your mind to go the distance can help you get through any run. For example, say to yourself, “just make it to the next electric pole and if you feel miserable, take a walk break. If your legs are good, run to the next pole.”
1-4. Maintain a steady pace.
You’re most likely to burn fat when you run slowly at a steady pace. You can always add elements such as intervals or hills to boost fat burning, but keeping it slow during most of your runs will help you burn fat over time and keep it off.
Figure out your steady pace by running a mile hard. This is your “race pace.” Train at a pace two to three minutes slower than this. If you want to run faster, you’ll also need to train faster.
Remember that the longer you run, the slower you should go. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to carry a comfortable conversation while running. This will help you get into the fat burning zone.
1-5. Keep yourself hydrated.
Having enough water to drink is an important part of staying healthy, but it can also boost your ability to run for longer. This is especially true in hot weather. Taking some water with you on a run can keep you hydrated and may help you go the distance.
Make sure to drink 8 to 16 ounces of water one or two hours before your run. If you’re running for an hour or less, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes. For someone running one to four hours, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes.
Keep in mind that water is enough to keep you hydrated, but you can mix water and a sports drink to replenish any sodium or electrolytes you lose. This is an especially effective tactic if you’re running longer than one hour. Try to get a sports drink that isn’t loaded with sugar, which can upset the delicate balance in your system.
Have 8 to 24 ounces post-run to replace fluids.
1-6. Cool down.
Just as a warm up and quality run are important to keeping yourself healthy while burning fat, so is a good cool down. This can help shift your blood flow to resting patterns, prevent dizziness, and help your muscles recover.
Slow down your run towards the end, aiming to get about five to 10 minutes of slow running or jogging. Then switch to a three to five minute brisk and gentle walk.
Consider adding elements such as a cold water bath, foam rolling, or stretching and yoga moves to help your body further recover. These are especially useful if you are doing longer or harder effort runs.
1-7. Stick to your plan, but listen to your body.
It’s important to finish your runs and get in the number of runs you set every week. The frequency and intensity with which you run will help you burn fat. However, if you’re sick or feeling worn out, consider a shorter run or even giving yourself a rest day. From here adjust your running schedule so that you can stick to your plan and continue burning fat.
Keep in mind that not listening to your body can lead to injuries, especially if you’re experiencing pain. Just giving yourself a couple of days of rest can be the difference between continuing your training or needing to see a doctor.
Consider doing easy cross-training on days you’re feeling sluggish or sick. Swimming, biking, rowing, or using the elliptical can keep your endurance level and fat burning potential at their peak.
1-8. Be patient.
Remember that sensible and healthy weight loss and fat burning takes time. In addition, no one became a marathon runner overnight. Sticking to your plan and being patient with results can keep you from getting discouraged if you don’t see the fat coming off in two weeks. As long as you’re comfortable and making even small progress at your runs, you’re doing exactly what you need to burn fat.
2. Incorporating Alternative Components to Boost Fat Burning
2-1. Add intervals.
Adding just a few high intensity intervals to your runs every week can help boost your fat burning potential. You can dedicate one workout every week to doing high intensity intervals or add some intervals at the end of your runs two to three days a week. In addition, intervals can help you get faster over time.
Schedule one speed workout every week on a day that is not close to your long run. For example, you could do a speed workout on a Wednesday or Thursday if your long run is Saturday. For this, do your normal workout and then run between four to eight 400 meters, or one loop of a track, intervals at your race pace.
Add five to 10 minutes of intervals at the end of your runs two or three days a week. Run or jog at your normal pace for 60 seconds and then up your intensity for 30 seconds. You could also do shuttle runs as a part of your interval training.
2-2. Hit the hills.
Running hills can boost your calorie burning potential by up to 50%. It not only can help you burn more fat and get stronger, but also increase your endurance. Add some hills to one or two workouts per week to help yourself burn more fat.
Consider doing one hill workout every week for increased fat burning benefit. You can also do hill intervals or repeats at the end of a workout or two each week. You may need to play with hill workouts a bit before figuring out which works best for you.
Set the treadmill at a 5% incline if you’re at the gym or live someplace flat. You can reset in between intervals if you want.
2-3. Step up your run.
Similar to hills, running stairs can blast calories and fat. In fact, it’s one of the best fat burning and overall conditioning exercises you can do. Choose to either run physical stairs—such as at a stadium—or use a stair machine at your gym. Add this to any running workout or replace one run a week with a stair run.
Run up the stairs at a fast pace and then down them at slow jog or trot to recover. If you’re using a stair machine, try running up the stairs at a hard pace for a minute and then giving yourself a minute of easy stair running.
Be careful when running stairs to ensure that you don’t fall and hurt yourself.
2-4. Tackle an obstacle course.
Some people may find running alone a bit tedious. If this is the case, consider adding some obstacles to your daily run. This can help to keep your heart rate high while you work at building smaller muscles groups. Obstacle courses require short bursts of explosive power for jumping and lots of coordination, so be sure to do them only when you are fresh and rested, such as after your warmup.
Use natural obstacles if you are running outside. Trails are especially great—you can jump over creeks and logs and swivel around boulders.
See if there are any obstacle courses available to the public in your local area. Some features that might appeal to runners are: a cargo net to climb, a rope climb up a nearly vertical wall, leaping through tires, running through a concrete tunnel, a mud pit through which you have to crawl.
Build your own obstacle course at home to do at the beginning of your run. Incorporate items you have around the house such as garbage cans over which to jump, small cones around which you can run, and ladders you can climb.
2-5. Run on an empty stomach.
If you feel able, go for a slow, pre-breakfast run. Doing your run on an empty stomach can boost your fat burning potential. Make sure to take a banana or something small on your run in case you get lightheaded. Over time, you may notice that your body gets used to running without breakfast, which draws on your body’s fat stores—and not carbohydrates—for fuel.
Have a normal, healthy breakfast of whole foods and water within 15 to 30 minutes of finishing your run. This can help stabilize blood sugar levels and promote recovery. For example, you could have a bowl of steel cut oatmeal with fresh fruit, some Greek yogurt, a glass of water, and a cup of coffee with skim milk.
2-6. Do a little strength training.
Adding even a simple strength training routine to your weekly runs can boost your fat burning potential. Resistance exercises build your overall strength, and they can also help to increase your running speed. Doing two to three strength training sessions per week in addition to your runs may increase your strength by 50%. In turn, more muscle will help you more effectively burn fat. Try two sets of 15 reps of the following moves to build strength:
Squats.
Lunges.
Leg extension.
Leg curls.
Pull ups.
Push ups.
Bicep curls.
Tricep extensions.
Chest press.
One arm row.
Flyes.
Planks. (Hold this exercise for 30 to 60 seconds and repeat two or three times.)
Tips
Boost your fat burning potential by combining your runs with a healthy diet.
Drink plenty of water to make sure you don't get dehydrated.
Avoid eating a large meal before your run. This can weigh you down while you’re running or even make you feel sick or throw up.
Warnings
If you start to feel light-headed or sick take a break or go home.
Train on a treadmill if the weather is too bad to go outside.[23]
X
Expert Source
Shira TsviPersonal Trainer & Fitness Instructor
Expert Interview. 7 January 2020.
|
{
"create_time": "20230517 11:00:30",
"回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Running Distances for Fat Burning\\n1-1. Develop a running plan.\\nNo matter if you’re a beginner or experienced runner, if you want to burn fat by running it’s a good idea to have a plan how you’ll accomplish the goal. It doesn’t matter if you run fast or slow, just that you are running. You will likely get faster the longer you stick to your program.\\nWrite out a weekly plan for yourself. For example, you could write, “Monday: run 2 miles; Tuesday: run ½ hour; Wednesday: run 1.5 miles; Thursday: run ½ hour; Friday: rest day; Saturday: run 3 miles; Sunday: rest day.” Stick to a flat running surface to start.\\nStart slowly. Try to gradually build up to half an hour of running by adding three to five minutes to your runs each week. Even if you can only run for a few minutes to start, that’s better than nothing. Set out to run ½ hour five to six days a week and add three to five minutes of running every week until you reach your goal time. You can also set a specific mileage to start, such as two or three miles, or even a mixture of time and distance. Mix shorter distances and times with one long run and a day or two of rest every week. Or, another option is to increase the intensity of your runs, such as by trying to run faster or incorporating a hill or two into your route.\\nDo your runs any place you feel comfortable. It could be on the road, trails, or even a treadmill. No matter what surface you choose, you’ll get the benefits of burning fat and calories.\\n1-2. Warm up before runs.\\nStarting out a run too quickly is a recipe for injury or getting yourself into a pace that is too fast or you can’t sustain. Gradually easing into your run with a gentle warm up can prevent injury and help you run longer.\\nDo an easy walk for three to five minutes, which loosens your muscles, tendons and joints and prepares them to run. Afterward, jog easily for another three to five minutes before starting to run your usual pace.\\n1-3. Go the distance.\\nOnce you’ve started your run, stick to your plan of running a specific time or distance. A good rule of thumb to get you through any run is, “you can always run too fast, but you can never run too slow.” Keeping this in mind can help you stay at your pace and focus on getting done.\\nTake walk breaks if necessary. There is nothing wrong with being too tired or winded, especially if you are just starting out. In fact, walking for a minute or even five in between may help you run for a longer time or distance.\\nKeep in mind that a big part of running is your mentality. Breaking longer runs down into manageable sections or playing games with your mind to go the distance can help you get through any run. For example, say to yourself, “just make it to the next electric pole and if you feel miserable, take a walk break. If your legs are good, run to the next pole.”\\n1-4. Maintain a steady pace.\\nYou’re most likely to burn fat when you run slowly at a steady pace. You can always add elements such as intervals or hills to boost fat burning, but keeping it slow during most of your runs will help you burn fat over time and keep it off.\\nFigure out your steady pace by running a mile hard. This is your “race pace.” Train at a pace two to three minutes slower than this. If you want to run faster, you’ll also need to train faster.\\nRemember that the longer you run, the slower you should go. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to carry a comfortable conversation while running. This will help you get into the fat burning zone.\\n1-5. Keep yourself hydrated.\\nHaving enough water to drink is an important part of staying healthy, but it can also boost your ability to run for longer. This is especially true in hot weather. Taking some water with you on a run can keep you hydrated and may help you go the distance.\\nMake sure to drink 8 to 16 ounces of water one or two hours before your run. If you’re running for an hour or less, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes. For someone running one to four hours, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes.\\nKeep in mind that water is enough to keep you hydrated, but you can mix water and a sports drink to replenish any sodium or electrolytes you lose. This is an especially effective tactic if you’re running longer than one hour. Try to get a sports drink that isn’t loaded with sugar, which can upset the delicate balance in your system.\\nHave 8 to 24 ounces post-run to replace fluids.\\n1-6. Cool down.\\nJust as a warm up and quality run are important to keeping yourself healthy while burning fat, so is a good cool down. This can help shift your blood flow to resting patterns, prevent dizziness, and help your muscles recover.\\nSlow down your run towards the end, aiming to get about five to 10 minutes of slow running or jogging. Then switch to a three to five minute brisk and gentle walk.\\nConsider adding elements such as a cold water bath, foam rolling, or stretching and yoga moves to help your body further recover. These are especially useful if you are doing longer or harder effort runs.\\n1-7. Stick to your plan, but listen to your body.\\nIt’s important to finish your runs and get in the number of runs you set every week. The frequency and intensity with which you run will help you burn fat. However, if you’re sick or feeling worn out, consider a shorter run or even giving yourself a rest day. From here adjust your running schedule so that you can stick to your plan and continue burning fat.\\nKeep in mind that not listening to your body can lead to injuries, especially if you’re experiencing pain. Just giving yourself a couple of days of rest can be the difference between continuing your training or needing to see a doctor.\\nConsider doing easy cross-training on days you’re feeling sluggish or sick. Swimming, biking, rowing, or using the elliptical can keep your endurance level and fat burning potential at their peak.\\n1-8. Be patient.\\nRemember that sensible and healthy weight loss and fat burning takes time. In addition, no one became a marathon runner overnight. Sticking to your plan and being patient with results can keep you from getting discouraged if you don’t see the fat coming off in two weeks. As long as you’re comfortable and making even small progress at your runs, you’re doing exactly what you need to burn fat.\\n2. Incorporating Alternative Components to Boost Fat Burning\\n2-1. Add intervals.\\nAdding just a few high intensity intervals to your runs every week can help boost your fat burning potential. You can dedicate one workout every week to doing high intensity intervals or add some intervals at the end of your runs two to three days a week. In addition, intervals can help you get faster over time.\\nSchedule one speed workout every week on a day that is not close to your long run. For example, you could do a speed workout on a Wednesday or Thursday if your long run is Saturday. For this, do your normal workout and then run between four to eight 400 meters, or one loop of a track, intervals at your race pace.\\nAdd five to 10 minutes of intervals at the end of your runs two or three days a week. Run or jog at your normal pace for 60 seconds and then up your intensity for 30 seconds. You could also do shuttle runs as a part of your interval training.\\n2-2. Hit the hills.\\nRunning hills can boost your calorie burning potential by up to 50%. It not only can help you burn more fat and get stronger, but also increase your endurance. Add some hills to one or two workouts per week to help yourself burn more fat.\\nConsider doing one hill workout every week for increased fat burning benefit. You can also do hill intervals or repeats at the end of a workout or two each week. You may need to play with hill workouts a bit before figuring out which works best for you.\\nSet the treadmill at a 5% incline if you’re at the gym or live someplace flat. You can reset in between intervals if you want.\\n2-3. Step up your run.\\nSimilar to hills, running stairs can blast calories and fat. In fact, it’s one of the best fat burning and overall conditioning exercises you can do. Choose to either run physical stairs—such as at a stadium—or use a stair machine at your gym. Add this to any running workout or replace one run a week with a stair run.\\nRun up the stairs at a fast pace and then down them at slow jog or trot to recover. If you’re using a stair machine, try running up the stairs at a hard pace for a minute and then giving yourself a minute of easy stair running.\\nBe careful when running stairs to ensure that you don’t fall and hurt yourself.\\n2-4. Tackle an obstacle course.\\nSome people may find running alone a bit tedious. If this is the case, consider adding some obstacles to your daily run. This can help to keep your heart rate high while you work at building smaller muscles groups. Obstacle courses require short bursts of explosive power for jumping and lots of coordination, so be sure to do them only when you are fresh and rested, such as after your warmup.\\nUse natural obstacles if you are running outside. Trails are especially great—you can jump over creeks and logs and swivel around boulders.\\nSee if there are any obstacle courses available to the public in your local area. Some features that might appeal to runners are: a cargo net to climb, a rope climb up a nearly vertical wall, leaping through tires, running through a concrete tunnel, a mud pit through which you have to crawl.\\nBuild your own obstacle course at home to do at the beginning of your run. Incorporate items you have around the house such as garbage cans over which to jump, small cones around which you can run, and ladders you can climb.\\n2-5. Run on an empty stomach.\\nIf you feel able, go for a slow, pre-breakfast run. Doing your run on an empty stomach can boost your fat burning potential. Make sure to take a banana or something small on your run in case you get lightheaded. Over time, you may notice that your body gets used to running without breakfast, which draws on your body’s fat stores—and not carbohydrates—for fuel.\\nHave a normal, healthy breakfast of whole foods and water within 15 to 30 minutes of finishing your run. This can help stabilize blood sugar levels and promote recovery. For example, you could have a bowl of steel cut oatmeal with fresh fruit, some Greek yogurt, a glass of water, and a cup of coffee with skim milk.\\n2-6. Do a little strength training.\\nAdding even a simple strength training routine to your weekly runs can boost your fat burning potential. Resistance exercises build your overall strength, and they can also help to increase your running speed. Doing two to three strength training sessions per week in addition to your runs may increase your strength by 50%. In turn, more muscle will help you more effectively burn fat. Try two sets of 15 reps of the following moves to build strength:\\nSquats.\\nLunges.\\nLeg extension.\\nLeg curls.\\nPull ups.\\nPush ups.\\nBicep curls.\\nTricep extensions.\\nChest press.\\nOne arm row.\\nFlyes.\\n\\nPlanks. (Hold this exercise for 30 to 60 seconds and repeat two or three times.)\\nTips\\nBoost your fat burning potential by combining your runs with a healthy diet.\\nDrink plenty of water to make sure you don't get dehydrated.\\nAvoid eating a large meal before your run. This can weigh you down while you’re running or even make you feel sick or throw up.\\nWarnings\\nIf you start to feel light-headed or sick take a break or go home.\\nTrain on a treadmill if the weather is too bad to go outside.[23]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nShira TsviPersonal Trainer & Fitness Instructor\\nExpert Interview. 7 January 2020.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you carrying a few extra pounds of fat that you’d like to lose? Many people are and want to shed it in the healthiest way. Running is an excellent and healthy way to burn calories, fat, and lose weight. But you might be new to running and unsure of how best to burn fat. By running distances and adding elements such as intervals and hills, you can burn fat and gradually shed pounds.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Running Distances for Fat Burning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Develop a running plan.\", \"描述\": \"No matter if you’re a beginner or experienced runner, if you want to burn fat by running it’s a good idea to have a plan how you’ll accomplish the goal. It doesn’t matter if you run fast or slow, just that you are running. You will likely get faster the longer you stick to your program.\\nWrite out a weekly plan for yourself. For example, you could write, “Monday: run 2 miles; Tuesday: run ½ hour; Wednesday: run 1.5 miles; Thursday: run ½ hour; Friday: rest day; Saturday: run 3 miles; Sunday: rest day.” Stick to a flat running surface to start.\\nStart slowly. Try to gradually build up to half an hour of running by adding three to five minutes to your runs each week. Even if you can only run for a few minutes to start, that’s better than nothing. Set out to run ½ hour five to six days a week and add three to five minutes of running every week until you reach your goal time. You can also set a specific mileage to start, such as two or three miles, or even a mixture of time and distance. Mix shorter distances and times with one long run and a day or two of rest every week. Or, another option is to increase the intensity of your runs, such as by trying to run faster or incorporating a hill or two into your route.\\nDo your runs any place you feel comfortable. It could be on the road, trails, or even a treadmill. No matter what surface you choose, you’ll get the benefits of burning fat and calories.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Warm up before runs.\", \"描述\": \"Starting out a run too quickly is a recipe for injury or getting yourself into a pace that is too fast or you can’t sustain. Gradually easing into your run with a gentle warm up can prevent injury and help you run longer.\\nDo an easy walk for three to five minutes, which loosens your muscles, tendons and joints and prepares them to run. Afterward, jog easily for another three to five minutes before starting to run your usual pace.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Go the distance.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve started your run, stick to your plan of running a specific time or distance. A good rule of thumb to get you through any run is, “you can always run too fast, but you can never run too slow.” Keeping this in mind can help you stay at your pace and focus on getting done.\\nTake walk breaks if necessary. There is nothing wrong with being too tired or winded, especially if you are just starting out. In fact, walking for a minute or even five in between may help you run for a longer time or distance.\\nKeep in mind that a big part of running is your mentality. Breaking longer runs down into manageable sections or playing games with your mind to go the distance can help you get through any run. For example, say to yourself, “just make it to the next electric pole and if you feel miserable, take a walk break. If your legs are good, run to the next pole.”\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Maintain a steady pace.\", \"描述\": \"You’re most likely to burn fat when you run slowly at a steady pace. You can always add elements such as intervals or hills to boost fat burning, but keeping it slow during most of your runs will help you burn fat over time and keep it off.\\nFigure out your steady pace by running a mile hard. This is your “race pace.” Train at a pace two to three minutes slower than this. If you want to run faster, you’ll also need to train faster.\\nRemember that the longer you run, the slower you should go. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to carry a comfortable conversation while running. This will help you get into the fat burning zone.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Keep yourself hydrated.\", \"描述\": \"Having enough water to drink is an important part of staying healthy, but it can also boost your ability to run for longer. This is especially true in hot weather. Taking some water with you on a run can keep you hydrated and may help you go the distance.\\nMake sure to drink 8 to 16 ounces of water one or two hours before your run. If you’re running for an hour or less, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes. For someone running one to four hours, drink 3 to 6 ounces every 15 to 20 minutes.\\nKeep in mind that water is enough to keep you hydrated, but you can mix water and a sports drink to replenish any sodium or electrolytes you lose. This is an especially effective tactic if you’re running longer than one hour. Try to get a sports drink that isn’t loaded with sugar, which can upset the delicate balance in your system.\\nHave 8 to 24 ounces post-run to replace fluids.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cool down.\", \"描述\": \"Just as a warm up and quality run are important to keeping yourself healthy while burning fat, so is a good cool down. This can help shift your blood flow to resting patterns, prevent dizziness, and help your muscles recover.\\nSlow down your run towards the end, aiming to get about five to 10 minutes of slow running or jogging. Then switch to a three to five minute brisk and gentle walk.\\nConsider adding elements such as a cold water bath, foam rolling, or stretching and yoga moves to help your body further recover. These are especially useful if you are doing longer or harder effort runs.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Stick to your plan, but listen to your body.\", \"描述\": \"It’s important to finish your runs and get in the number of runs you set every week. The frequency and intensity with which you run will help you burn fat. However, if you’re sick or feeling worn out, consider a shorter run or even giving yourself a rest day. From here adjust your running schedule so that you can stick to your plan and continue burning fat.\\nKeep in mind that not listening to your body can lead to injuries, especially if you’re experiencing pain. Just giving yourself a couple of days of rest can be the difference between continuing your training or needing to see a doctor.\\nConsider doing easy cross-training on days you’re feeling sluggish or sick. Swimming, biking, rowing, or using the elliptical can keep your endurance level and fat burning potential at their peak.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Be patient.\", \"描述\": \"Remember that sensible and healthy weight loss and fat burning takes time. In addition, no one became a marathon runner overnight. Sticking to your plan and being patient with results can keep you from getting discouraged if you don’t see the fat coming off in two weeks. As long as you’re comfortable and making even small progress at your runs, you’re doing exactly what you need to burn fat.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporating Alternative Components to Boost Fat Burning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add intervals.\", \"描述\": \"Adding just a few high intensity intervals to your runs every week can help boost your fat burning potential. You can dedicate one workout every week to doing high intensity intervals or add some intervals at the end of your runs two to three days a week. In addition, intervals can help you get faster over time.\\nSchedule one speed workout every week on a day that is not close to your long run. For example, you could do a speed workout on a Wednesday or Thursday if your long run is Saturday. For this, do your normal workout and then run between four to eight 400 meters, or one loop of a track, intervals at your race pace.\\nAdd five to 10 minutes of intervals at the end of your runs two or three days a week. Run or jog at your normal pace for 60 seconds and then up your intensity for 30 seconds. You could also do shuttle runs as a part of your interval training.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hit the hills.\", \"描述\": \"Running hills can boost your calorie burning potential by up to 50%. It not only can help you burn more fat and get stronger, but also increase your endurance. Add some hills to one or two workouts per week to help yourself burn more fat.\\nConsider doing one hill workout every week for increased fat burning benefit. You can also do hill intervals or repeats at the end of a workout or two each week. You may need to play with hill workouts a bit before figuring out which works best for you.\\nSet the treadmill at a 5% incline if you’re at the gym or live someplace flat. You can reset in between intervals if you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Step up your run.\", \"描述\": \"Similar to hills, running stairs can blast calories and fat. In fact, it’s one of the best fat burning and overall conditioning exercises you can do. Choose to either run physical stairs—such as at a stadium—or use a stair machine at your gym. Add this to any running workout or replace one run a week with a stair run.\\nRun up the stairs at a fast pace and then down them at slow jog or trot to recover. If you’re using a stair machine, try running up the stairs at a hard pace for a minute and then giving yourself a minute of easy stair running.\\nBe careful when running stairs to ensure that you don’t fall and hurt yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tackle an obstacle course.\", \"描述\": \"Some people may find running alone a bit tedious. If this is the case, consider adding some obstacles to your daily run. This can help to keep your heart rate high while you work at building smaller muscles groups. Obstacle courses require short bursts of explosive power for jumping and lots of coordination, so be sure to do them only when you are fresh and rested, such as after your warmup.\\nUse natural obstacles if you are running outside. Trails are especially great—you can jump over creeks and logs and swivel around boulders.\\nSee if there are any obstacle courses available to the public in your local area. Some features that might appeal to runners are: a cargo net to climb, a rope climb up a nearly vertical wall, leaping through tires, running through a concrete tunnel, a mud pit through which you have to crawl.\\nBuild your own obstacle course at home to do at the beginning of your run. Incorporate items you have around the house such as garbage cans over which to jump, small cones around which you can run, and ladders you can climb.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Run on an empty stomach.\", \"描述\": \"If you feel able, go for a slow, pre-breakfast run. Doing your run on an empty stomach can boost your fat burning potential. Make sure to take a banana or something small on your run in case you get lightheaded. Over time, you may notice that your body gets used to running without breakfast, which draws on your body’s fat stores—and not carbohydrates—for fuel.\\nHave a normal, healthy breakfast of whole foods and water within 15 to 30 minutes of finishing your run. This can help stabilize blood sugar levels and promote recovery. For example, you could have a bowl of steel cut oatmeal with fresh fruit, some Greek yogurt, a glass of water, and a cup of coffee with skim milk.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Do a little strength training.\", \"描述\": \"Adding even a simple strength training routine to your weekly runs can boost your fat burning potential. Resistance exercises build your overall strength, and they can also help to increase your running speed. Doing two to three strength training sessions per week in addition to your runs may increase your strength by 50%. In turn, more muscle will help you more effectively burn fat. Try two sets of 15 reps of the following moves to build strength:\\nSquats.\\nLunges.\\nLeg extension.\\nLeg curls.\\nPull ups.\\nPush ups.\\nBicep curls.\\nTricep extensions.\\nChest press.\\nOne arm row.\\nFlyes.\\n\\nPlanks. (Hold this exercise for 30 to 60 seconds and repeat two or three times.)\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Boost your fat burning potential by combining your runs with a healthy diet.\\n\", \"Drink plenty of water to make sure you don't get dehydrated.\\n\", \"Avoid eating a large meal before your run. This can weigh you down while you’re running or even make you feel sick or throw up.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you start to feel light-headed or sick take a break or go home.\\n\", \"Train on a treadmill if the weather is too bad to go outside.[23]\\nX\\nExpert Source\\n\\nShira TsviPersonal Trainer & Fitness Instructor\\nExpert Interview. 7 January 2020.\\n\"]}]}}",
"问题明细": "",
"扩展字段": ""
}
|
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