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How to Build a Dog Crate
1. Planning Your Dog Crate 1-1. Measure your dog. To start concretely planning the dimensions of your crate, you’ll need to accommodate your dog’s size. Measure your dog’s height (from its feet to the top of its head) and length (nose tip to the tip of its tail). 1-2. Decide on the dimensions of your crate. Once you’ve measured how big your dog is, you’ll need to plan the size of your crate accordingly. Your dog will need enough room to stand, sit, and turn around in this crate. You’ll want to give your dog room to move side-to-side, so avoid making the crate too narrow. For example, if your dog measures 3 feet from the tip of its nose to the tip of its tail, and 1 foot high, consider planning for a crate that is 4 feet long, 2 feet high, and 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide. Some dog owners may be looking for a relatively small dog crate, in which their dog can sleep. Smaller crates can also be used to contain your dog when guests are over, or if you need to be out of the house for several hours at a time. On the other hand, dog owners may want a larger crate—or even a primarily outdoor crate—that can house the dog for longer periods of time. A large crate can also serve as a place for the dog to sleep. If you have the time, you could also visit nearby pet supply stores and look at the manufactured crates that the store offers. This will give you an idea of common crate sizes, and you can see which would work best for your own dog 1-3. Choose the best material for your purposes. Most homemade crates are built either out of wood planking or chain link fence, since both of those materials are fairly cheap and can be found at local hardware stores. Both types of crates can be moved, but if you want a crate that you can relocate throughout your house, a wooden crate will better meet this need. Consider building your crate out of wood if you’d like for it to be located indoors, and if your dog will not be spending large amounts of time (over 8 hours) in the crate. You should not leave a dog unattended in an indoor crate for longer than 8 hours at a time. It can be unhealthy for the animal to go longer without access to food, water, and a place to go to the bathroom. Consider building your crate from chain link if you plan to keep it outdoors, and if your dog will be spending more substantial amounts of time in the crate. If your dog will be in the crate for over 8 hours, provide it with food and water. Although it is not technically a crate, some dog owners build their animals large outdoor enclosures—for example, 150 square feet—to give the animal plenty of space to move and use the bathroom. 2. Building a Wooden Dog Crate 2-1. Buy your wooden planking. You will be making a wooden crate, so pick out what kind of wood you’d like to use. The simplest way to build a wooden crate is to have wooden planking on the top, bottom, and sides, with a door that allows for ventilation attached to the front. Pine is very common when it comes to animal crates—it’s a sturdy, common, and cheap wood. You will also need to purchase a tape measurer, nails and hinges, and a hammer. Unless you already have a door for the dog cage, or plan to build your own, you can buy a gridded metal cage door, which you can attach to the side of the crate. All of these materials should be available at a local hardware store. 2-2. Make the top and bottom sections of your crate. Using a table saw, a circular saw, or a hand saw, cut the pieces of wood to the exact measurements that you decided upon earlier. Since the top and bottom of the crate will be the same size, you can mark both with the same measurements. When you measure the planking before making the cuts, trace a pencil along the lines where you need to cut. This will help you guide the saw while you are cutting and will ensure that your cut pieces of wood are the correct size. 2-3. Make the sides and back. Cut out pieces of wood to the desired dimensions for the sides and back of the crate. As with the top and bottom, mark the dimensions on the planking before you cut the wood. Measure and cut two pieces that are the planned size for the two sides of the crate, and stand these pieces on their sides next to the bottom of the crate. Then, repeat the procedure, but with the dimensions planned for the back of the crate. Stand the three wooden side-pieces (two sides and the back) next to the base-piece of the crate. Align the pieces, and then nail the sides and back into the bottom plank. Put your top piece on top of the crate’s sides. Make sure that the edges of the top align with the sides, and then nail the top in place. 2-4. Attach the door to one of the crate’s sides. If you’re using a gridded metal door that you’ve purchased, it should already have hinges attached. Mount the loose ends of the hinges on the dog’s crate, using the method suggested by the door manufacturer. Finally, attach a latch to the other side of the door so that it can close properly. You may be able to attach the hinges to the side of the crate using gorilla glue or another extreme adhesive. If you must use screws or nails to attach the hinges, make sure to file down the screw or nail tips on the inside of the cage, so they do not stab your dog. If you don’t have a file, use your hammer to bend the tips of the screws or nails so that they are parallel to the wood planking and can’t scratch your dog. Make sure that the door can open freely. 3. Building a Chain Link Dog Crate 3-1. Choose and purchase your fencing materials. Chain link-fence will be the easiest and most convenient to use. You can select the height and length of fence you’d like to purchase—buy enough to match the size dimensions that you’ve decided on for the crate. You should be able to purchase readymade wall and door sections at your local hardware or home-center store; this will be easier to assemble than fencing material from a spool. Plan for the fencing to be at least 4 feet high, so that your dog will not leap out of the crate. You can also purchase a readymade top to affix to the top of the crate—this should guarantee that the dog will not escape. 3-2. Decide on the flooring material. Assuming that this dog crate will be installed outside, flagstone and pea gravel are popular options. Choose which you would like to use, and purchase the material at a hardware or gardening supply store. If you decide to bring a chain-link dog crate inside, you could affix the bottom of the fencing material to a large piece of plywood that has been cut to the dimensions of the crate. 3-3. Assemble the crate. Depending on the type and amount of fencing material you purchased, you’ll need to assemble the premade wall and door segments as directed by the manufacturer. Locate the crate in your backyard or other outdoor area near to your house. If you choose to locate the crate inside your house, set it on a surface—such as concrete or cement—that will not be damaged by the steel wires. Chain-link crates are typically installed outside. Consequently, in order to prevent dogs from digging out under the chain link, you may need to dig down and bury the bottom edge of the crate fence about a foot deep. 3-4. Consider adding shade or insulation. If the dog is going to be spending substantial amounts of time in its crate outside—especially if you live in a region with extreme high or low temperatures—you may want to install some material to protect your dog from the sun or inclement weather. Even setting plywood up against the edges of the crate will keep wind from coming in, and placing a couple sheets of plywood on the top of the crate will prevent sun and rain from hitting the dog. If you’ve got a dog that chews, you may want to insulate the crate with a durable and safe material. Tips Always take safety precautions when using a hammer and nails, and especially when using an electrical saw. Wear eye goggles when operating an electrical saw, and keep your hands well away from the blade.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Dog Crate\\n1-1. Measure your dog.\\nTo start concretely planning the dimensions of your crate, you’ll need to accommodate your dog’s size. Measure your dog’s height (from its feet to the top of its head) and length (nose tip to the tip of its tail).\\n1-2. Decide on the dimensions of your crate.\\nOnce you’ve measured how big your dog is, you’ll need to plan the size of your crate accordingly. Your dog will need enough room to stand, sit, and turn around in this crate. You’ll want to give your dog room to move side-to-side, so avoid making the crate too narrow. For example, if your dog measures 3 feet from the tip of its nose to the tip of its tail, and 1 foot high, consider planning for a crate that is 4 feet long, 2 feet high, and 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide.\\nSome dog owners may be looking for a relatively small dog crate, in which their dog can sleep. Smaller crates can also be used to contain your dog when guests are over, or if you need to be out of the house for several hours at a time. \\nOn the other hand, dog owners may want a larger crate—or even a primarily outdoor crate—that can house the dog for longer periods of time. A large crate can also serve as a place for the dog to sleep.\\nIf you have the time, you could also visit nearby pet supply stores and look at the manufactured crates that the store offers. This will give you an idea of common crate sizes, and you can see which would work best for your own dog\\n1-3. Choose the best material for your purposes.\\nMost homemade crates are built either out of wood planking or chain link fence, since both of those materials are fairly cheap and can be found at local hardware stores. Both types of crates can be moved, but if you want a crate that you can relocate throughout your house, a wooden crate will better meet this need.\\nConsider building your crate out of wood if you’d like for it to be located indoors, and if your dog will not be spending large amounts of time (over 8 hours) in the crate. You should not leave a dog unattended in an indoor crate for longer than 8 hours at a time. It can be unhealthy for the animal to go longer without access to food, water, and a place to go to the bathroom.\\nConsider building your crate from chain link if you plan to keep it outdoors, and if your dog will be spending more substantial amounts of time in the crate. If your dog will be in the crate for over 8 hours, provide it with food and water.\\nAlthough it is not technically a crate, some dog owners build their animals large outdoor enclosures—for example, 150 square feet—to give the animal plenty of space to move and use the bathroom.\\n2. Building a Wooden Dog Crate\\n2-1. Buy your wooden planking.\\nYou will be making a wooden crate, so pick out what kind of wood you’d like to use. The simplest way to build a wooden crate is to have wooden planking on the top, bottom, and sides, with a door that allows for ventilation attached to the front.\\nPine is very common when it comes to animal crates—it’s a sturdy, common, and cheap wood.\\nYou will also need to purchase a tape measurer, nails and hinges, and a hammer. Unless you already have a door for the dog cage, or plan to build your own, you can buy a gridded metal cage door, which you can attach to the side of the crate.\\nAll of these materials should be available at a local hardware store.\\n2-2. Make the top and bottom sections of your crate.\\nUsing a table saw, a circular saw, or a hand saw, cut the pieces of wood to the exact measurements that you decided upon earlier. Since the top and bottom of the crate will be the same size, you can mark both with the same measurements.\\nWhen you measure the planking before making the cuts, trace a pencil along the lines where you need to cut. This will help you guide the saw while you are cutting and will ensure that your cut pieces of wood are the correct size.\\n2-3. Make the sides and back.\\nCut out pieces of wood to the desired dimensions for the sides and back of the crate. As with the top and bottom, mark the dimensions on the planking before you cut the wood. Measure and cut two pieces that are the planned size for the two sides of the crate, and stand these pieces on their sides next to the bottom of the crate. Then, repeat the procedure, but with the dimensions planned for the back of the crate.\\nStand the three wooden side-pieces (two sides and the back) next to the base-piece of the crate. Align the pieces, and then nail the sides and back into the bottom plank.\\nPut your top piece on top of the crate’s sides. Make sure that the edges of the top align with the sides, and then nail the top in place.\\n2-4. Attach the door to one of the crate’s sides.\\nIf you’re using a gridded metal door that you’ve purchased, it should already have hinges attached. Mount the loose ends of the hinges on the dog’s crate, using the method suggested by the door manufacturer. Finally, attach a latch to the other side of the door so that it can close properly.\\nYou may be able to attach the hinges to the side of the crate using gorilla glue or another extreme adhesive. If you must use screws or nails to attach the hinges, make sure to file down the screw or nail tips on the inside of the cage, so they do not stab your dog. If you don’t have a file, use your hammer to bend the tips of the screws or nails so that they are parallel to the wood planking and can’t scratch your dog.\\nMake sure that the door can open freely.\\n3. Building a Chain Link Dog Crate\\n3-1. Choose and purchase your fencing materials.\\nChain link-fence will be the easiest and most convenient to use. You can select the height and length of fence you’d like to purchase—buy enough to match the size dimensions that you’ve decided on for the crate. You should be able to purchase readymade wall and door sections at your local hardware or home-center store; this will be easier to assemble than fencing material from a spool.\\nPlan for the fencing to be at least 4 feet high, so that your dog will not leap out of the crate. You can also purchase a readymade top to affix to the top of the crate—this should guarantee that the dog will not escape.\\n3-2. Decide on the flooring material.\\nAssuming that this dog crate will be installed outside, flagstone and pea gravel are popular options. Choose which you would like to use, and purchase the material at a hardware or gardening supply store.\\nIf you decide to bring a chain-link dog crate inside, you could affix the bottom of the fencing material to a large piece of plywood that has been cut to the dimensions of the crate.\\n3-3. Assemble the crate.\\nDepending on the type and amount of fencing material you purchased, you’ll need to assemble the premade wall and door segments as directed by the manufacturer. Locate the crate in your backyard or other outdoor area near to your house. If you choose to locate the crate inside your house, set it on a surface—such as concrete or cement—that will not be damaged by the steel wires.\\nChain-link crates are typically installed outside. Consequently, in order to prevent dogs from digging out under the chain link, you may need to dig down and bury the bottom edge of the crate fence about a foot deep.\\n3-4. Consider adding shade or insulation.\\nIf the dog is going to be spending substantial amounts of time in its crate outside—especially if you live in a region with extreme high or low temperatures—you may want to install some material to protect your dog from the sun or inclement weather.\\nEven setting plywood up against the edges of the crate will keep wind from coming in, and placing a couple sheets of plywood on the top of the crate will prevent sun and rain from hitting the dog.\\nIf you’ve got a dog that chews, you may want to insulate the crate with a durable and safe material.\\nTips\\nAlways take safety precautions when using a hammer and nails, and especially when using an electrical saw.\\nWear eye goggles when operating an electrical saw, and keep your hands well away from the blade.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you own a dog and would prefer not to purchase a dog crate, you may want to make one yourself. This option gives you the leeway to customize the crate according to your own preferences and your dog’s needs, and may save you a bit of money as well. You can make a dog crate out of various materials, including wood planking or metal chain link. Before your purchase materials, you’ll need to decide on the dimensions of the crate you want to build, and then determine which material will provide the most effective crate for your dog.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Dog Crate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your dog.\", \"描述\": \"To start concretely planning the dimensions of your crate, you’ll need to accommodate your dog’s size. Measure your dog’s height (from its feet to the top of its head) and length (nose tip to the tip of its tail).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on the dimensions of your crate.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve measured how big your dog is, you’ll need to plan the size of your crate accordingly. Your dog will need enough room to stand, sit, and turn around in this crate. You’ll want to give your dog room to move side-to-side, so avoid making the crate too narrow. For example, if your dog measures 3 feet from the tip of its nose to the tip of its tail, and 1 foot high, consider planning for a crate that is 4 feet long, 2 feet high, and 3.5 feet (1.1 m) wide.\\nSome dog owners may be looking for a relatively small dog crate, in which their dog can sleep. Smaller crates can also be used to contain your dog when guests are over, or if you need to be out of the house for several hours at a time. \\nOn the other hand, dog owners may want a larger crate—or even a primarily outdoor crate—that can house the dog for longer periods of time. A large crate can also serve as a place for the dog to sleep.\\nIf you have the time, you could also visit nearby pet supply stores and look at the manufactured crates that the store offers. This will give you an idea of common crate sizes, and you can see which would work best for your own dog\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose the best material for your purposes.\", \"描述\": \"Most homemade crates are built either out of wood planking or chain link fence, since both of those materials are fairly cheap and can be found at local hardware stores. Both types of crates can be moved, but if you want a crate that you can relocate throughout your house, a wooden crate will better meet this need.\\nConsider building your crate out of wood if you’d like for it to be located indoors, and if your dog will not be spending large amounts of time (over 8 hours) in the crate. You should not leave a dog unattended in an indoor crate for longer than 8 hours at a time. It can be unhealthy for the animal to go longer without access to food, water, and a place to go to the bathroom.\\nConsider building your crate from chain link if you plan to keep it outdoors, and if your dog will be spending more substantial amounts of time in the crate. If your dog will be in the crate for over 8 hours, provide it with food and water.\\nAlthough it is not technically a crate, some dog owners build their animals large outdoor enclosures—for example, 150 square feet—to give the animal plenty of space to move and use the bathroom.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Wooden Dog Crate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy your wooden planking.\", \"描述\": \"You will be making a wooden crate, so pick out what kind of wood you’d like to use. The simplest way to build a wooden crate is to have wooden planking on the top, bottom, and sides, with a door that allows for ventilation attached to the front.\\nPine is very common when it comes to animal crates—it’s a sturdy, common, and cheap wood.\\nYou will also need to purchase a tape measurer, nails and hinges, and a hammer. Unless you already have a door for the dog cage, or plan to build your own, you can buy a gridded metal cage door, which you can attach to the side of the crate.\\nAll of these materials should be available at a local hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the top and bottom sections of your crate.\", \"描述\": \"Using a table saw, a circular saw, or a hand saw, cut the pieces of wood to the exact measurements that you decided upon earlier. Since the top and bottom of the crate will be the same size, you can mark both with the same measurements.\\nWhen you measure the planking before making the cuts, trace a pencil along the lines where you need to cut. This will help you guide the saw while you are cutting and will ensure that your cut pieces of wood are the correct size.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the sides and back.\", \"描述\": \"Cut out pieces of wood to the desired dimensions for the sides and back of the crate. As with the top and bottom, mark the dimensions on the planking before you cut the wood. Measure and cut two pieces that are the planned size for the two sides of the crate, and stand these pieces on their sides next to the bottom of the crate. Then, repeat the procedure, but with the dimensions planned for the back of the crate.\\nStand the three wooden side-pieces (two sides and the back) next to the base-piece of the crate. Align the pieces, and then nail the sides and back into the bottom plank.\\nPut your top piece on top of the crate’s sides. Make sure that the edges of the top align with the sides, and then nail the top in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the door to one of the crate’s sides.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re using a gridded metal door that you’ve purchased, it should already have hinges attached. Mount the loose ends of the hinges on the dog’s crate, using the method suggested by the door manufacturer. Finally, attach a latch to the other side of the door so that it can close properly.\\nYou may be able to attach the hinges to the side of the crate using gorilla glue or another extreme adhesive. If you must use screws or nails to attach the hinges, make sure to file down the screw or nail tips on the inside of the cage, so they do not stab your dog. If you don’t have a file, use your hammer to bend the tips of the screws or nails so that they are parallel to the wood planking and can’t scratch your dog.\\nMake sure that the door can open freely.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Chain Link Dog Crate\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose and purchase your fencing materials.\", \"描述\": \"Chain link-fence will be the easiest and most convenient to use. You can select the height and length of fence you’d like to purchase—buy enough to match the size dimensions that you’ve decided on for the crate. You should be able to purchase readymade wall and door sections at your local hardware or home-center store; this will be easier to assemble than fencing material from a spool.\\nPlan for the fencing to be at least 4 feet high, so that your dog will not leap out of the crate. You can also purchase a readymade top to affix to the top of the crate—this should guarantee that the dog will not escape.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide on the flooring material.\", \"描述\": \"Assuming that this dog crate will be installed outside, flagstone and pea gravel are popular options. Choose which you would like to use, and purchase the material at a hardware or gardening supply store.\\nIf you decide to bring a chain-link dog crate inside, you could affix the bottom of the fencing material to a large piece of plywood that has been cut to the dimensions of the crate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble the crate.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the type and amount of fencing material you purchased, you’ll need to assemble the premade wall and door segments as directed by the manufacturer. Locate the crate in your backyard or other outdoor area near to your house. If you choose to locate the crate inside your house, set it on a surface—such as concrete or cement—that will not be damaged by the steel wires.\\nChain-link crates are typically installed outside. Consequently, in order to prevent dogs from digging out under the chain link, you may need to dig down and bury the bottom edge of the crate fence about a foot deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider adding shade or insulation.\", \"描述\": \"If the dog is going to be spending substantial amounts of time in its crate outside—especially if you live in a region with extreme high or low temperatures—you may want to install some material to protect your dog from the sun or inclement weather.\\nEven setting plywood up against the edges of the crate will keep wind from coming in, and placing a couple sheets of plywood on the top of the crate will prevent sun and rain from hitting the dog.\\nIf you’ve got a dog that chews, you may want to insulate the crate with a durable and safe material.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always take safety precautions when using a hammer and nails, and especially when using an electrical saw.\\n\", \"Wear eye goggles when operating an electrical saw, and keep your hands well away from the blade.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,320
How to Build a Dog House
1. Constructing the Base 1-1. Consider what you'll be using the base for. Different dogs have different needs, but almost every dog will need the following: an insulated, dry space that he can call home whether it's hot or cold. Pay attention to these factors when building a dog house: Think about insulation. Remember that the base builds the foundation for the whole house and creates a space of air between the ground and the floor that acts as insulation for the house. A house without a base is cooler during the cold months and warmer during the hot months. Consider the specific elements that might affect the base in your outdoor environment. If it rains often in your area, make sure to use a non-toxic, water-resistant material and build the base high enough off of the ground to prevent flooding. 1-2. Use a framing square and a pencil to begin reproducing the diagram you created on the wood itself. Cut 2x4 wood boards into four pieces, with two at 22-1/2" long and two at 23" long for a medium-sized dog. 1-3. Place the 23” side pieces inside the 22-1/2” front and back pieces to create a rectangle with the 2" side resting on the ground. Use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Then attach the base pieces together using two 3” galvanized wood screws in each end. 1-4. Transfer the floor plans by using a pencil and a framing square to a single sheet of 3/4" plywood. The dimensions are 26" by 22-1/2" for the above sized frame. 1-5. Using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws, attach the floor panel to the base by drilling one screw into each corner of the of the base. 2. Putting Up Walls 2-1. Again, use real wood for added insulation and versatility. Using wood for the dog house will help keep the house insulated, even if the wood is rather thin. For the front wall of the house, make the opening for your dog as small as possible (although still comfortable) in order to allow the house to retain heat. 2-2. Transfer the plans for the sides of the house to the same piece of plywood used for the floor. Each side should be 26" long and 16" wide, while the front and back should be a 24" by 16" rectangle with an attached 12" high and 24" wide triangle on top of the rectangle. Cut out this shape in one piece for both the front and the back of the house. 2-3. Leave an opening on the front wall of the house about 10" wide and 13" high. Leave a 3" tall space at the bottom of the opening to cover the base. To create the round arch at the top of the opening, use any round object you have handy, such as a mixing bowl. 2-4. Cut out eight pieces of framing. Using a piece of 2x2 fir or cedar wood, cut out eight pieces to use as framing to secure the walls and roof. You will need four corner framing pieces 15” long and four roof framing pieces 13” long. 2-5. Fasten one 15” corner framing piece to each edge of the side frames using three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws. Then place the side panels on the base and screw galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter. 2-6. Attach the front and back panels. Place the front and back panels on the floor base and attach to the framing with galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter. 3. Building a Roof 3-1. Try building a triangular, sloping roof. This not only allows rain and snow to slide off of the dog house, but also gives your dog more room to stretch out in his humble abode. 3-2. Draw the plans for the roof panels on the 2x2 piece of wood, with the dimensions at 32" long and 20" wide. These pieces will rest on top of the side panels to form a triangular sloping roof. 3-3. Attach the 13” 2x2 roof framing piece to the inside edges of the front and back panels, halfway between the top and bottom of the angled side of each panel. Screw three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws into each panel. 3-4. Place the roof panels on top of the sides, making sure that the peak is tight and panels hang over each side. Secure the roof panels to the framing pieces using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws at 3" intervals. 4. Customizing Your Dog House 4-1. Personalize your dog house with paint. Using only non-toxic paints that won't harm your dog, you can paint the outside of the house to match your own, or pick a fun theme like an underwater scene. If you have small children, it can be fun to allow them to paint the dog house as an art project. 4-2. Create a sturdier roof. To keep the dog house extra dry, you can cover the entire roof with asphalt-impregnated roofing paper, or tar paper. Once you've covered the house, you can then add shingles for a traditional, sophisticated look. 4-3. Furnishing the inside. Keep your pup comfy by adding a blanket, dog bed, or piece of carpet inside. To add carpet, simply cut a piece of carpet to dimensions one inch smaller than the floor panel and secure it to the floor. Use wood glue if you want the carpet to be permanent, or duct tape if you want to be able to replace the carpet at a later time. 4-4. Add fun accessories to make your pup's house a home. Hang a name plate with your pooch's name over the front of the opening using a small nail and any type of material sturdy enough to withstand the elements. You can get personalized plates made of metal, make and paint a plate out of wood, or even hang spare dog tags. Make sure that the nail does not poke out to the inside of the house. Attach small hooks to the outside of the dog house to serve as a place to keep your dog's leash or any other toys. Tips You can make your dog house a solar dog house by simply attaching a plexiglass roof.[5] X Trustworthy Source U.S. Department of Energy Official site for the U.S. Department of Energy, which provides resources related to energy safety, conservation, and efficiency Go to source Then, add the regular roof on hinges so as to open it when the sun is out on cold days and close it at night or on hot days. When building the house, try not to leave any nails around that could harm your dog. If you'd like to decorate the interior of your dog's house, do that before you attach the roof.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Base\\n1-1. Consider what you'll be using the base for.\\nDifferent dogs have different needs, but almost every dog will need the following: an insulated, dry space that he can call home whether it's hot or cold. Pay attention to these factors when building a dog house:\\nThink about insulation. Remember that the base builds the foundation for the whole house and creates a space of air between the ground and the floor that acts as insulation for the house. A house without a base is cooler during the cold months and warmer during the hot months.\\nConsider the specific elements that might affect the base in your outdoor environment. If it rains often in your area, make sure to use a non-toxic, water-resistant material and build the base high enough off of the ground to prevent flooding.\\n1-2. Use a framing square and a pencil to begin reproducing the diagram you created on the wood itself.\\nCut 2x4 wood boards into four pieces, with two at 22-1/2\\\" long and two at 23\\\" long for a medium-sized dog.\\n1-3. Place the 23” side pieces inside the 22-1/2” front and back pieces to create a rectangle with the 2\\\" side resting on the ground.\\nUse a countersink drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Then attach the base pieces together using two 3” galvanized wood screws in each end.\\n1-4. Transfer the floor plans by using a pencil and a framing square to a single sheet of 3/4\\\" plywood.\\nThe dimensions are 26\\\" by 22-1/2\\\" for the above sized frame.\\n1-5. Using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws, attach the floor panel to the base by drilling one screw into each corner of the of the base.\\n\\n2. Putting Up Walls\\n2-1. Again, use real wood for added insulation and versatility.\\nUsing wood for the dog house will help keep the house insulated, even if the wood is rather thin. For the front wall of the house, make the opening for your dog as small as possible (although still comfortable) in order to allow the house to retain heat.\\n2-2. Transfer the plans for the sides of the house to the same piece of plywood used for the floor.\\nEach side should be 26\\\" long and 16\\\" wide, while the front and back should be a 24\\\" by 16\\\" rectangle with an attached 12\\\" high and 24\\\" wide triangle on top of the rectangle. Cut out this shape in one piece for both the front and the back of the house.\\n2-3. Leave an opening on the front wall of the house about 10\\\" wide and 13\\\" high.\\nLeave a 3\\\" tall space at the bottom of the opening to cover the base. To create the round arch at the top of the opening, use any round object you have handy, such as a mixing bowl.\\n2-4. Cut out eight pieces of framing.\\nUsing a piece of 2x2 fir or cedar wood, cut out eight pieces to use as framing to secure the walls and roof. You will need four corner framing pieces 15” long and four roof framing pieces 13” long.\\n2-5. Fasten one 15” corner framing piece to each edge of the side frames using three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws.\\nThen place the side panels on the base and screw galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter.\\n2-6. Attach the front and back panels.\\nPlace the front and back panels on the floor base and attach to the framing with galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter.\\n3. Building a Roof\\n3-1. Try building a triangular, sloping roof.\\nThis not only allows rain and snow to slide off of the dog house, but also gives your dog more room to stretch out in his humble abode.\\n3-2. Draw the plans for the roof panels on the 2x2 piece of wood, with the dimensions at 32\\\" long and 20\\\" wide.\\nThese pieces will rest on top of the side panels to form a triangular sloping roof.\\n3-3. Attach the 13” 2x2 roof framing piece to the inside edges of the front and back panels, halfway between the top and bottom of the angled side of each panel.\\nScrew three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws into each panel.\\n3-4. Place the roof panels on top of the sides, making sure that the peak is tight and panels hang over each side.\\nSecure the roof panels to the framing pieces using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws at 3\\\" intervals.\\n4. Customizing Your Dog House\\n4-1. Personalize your dog house with paint.\\nUsing only non-toxic paints that won't harm your dog, you can paint the outside of the house to match your own, or pick a fun theme like an underwater scene. If you have small children, it can be fun to allow them to paint the dog house as an art project.\\n4-2. Create a sturdier roof.\\nTo keep the dog house extra dry, you can cover the entire roof with asphalt-impregnated roofing paper, or tar paper. Once you've covered the house, you can then add shingles for a traditional, sophisticated look.\\n4-3. Furnishing the inside.\\nKeep your pup comfy by adding a blanket, dog bed, or piece of carpet inside. To add carpet, simply cut a piece of carpet to dimensions one inch smaller than the floor panel and secure it to the floor. Use wood glue if you want the carpet to be permanent, or duct tape if you want to be able to replace the carpet at a later time.\\n4-4. Add fun accessories to make your pup's house a home.\\nHang a name plate with your pooch's name over the front of the opening using a small nail and any type of material sturdy enough to withstand the elements. You can get personalized plates made of metal, make and paint a plate out of wood, or even hang spare dog tags. Make sure that the nail does not poke out to the inside of the house.\\nAttach small hooks to the outside of the dog house to serve as a place to keep your dog's leash or any other toys.\\nTips\\nYou can make your dog house a solar dog house by simply attaching a plexiglass roof.[5]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nU.S. Department of Energy\\nOfficial site for the U.S. Department of Energy, which provides resources related to energy safety, conservation, and efficiency\\nGo to source\\n\\n Then, add the regular roof on hinges so as to open it when the sun is out on cold days and close it at night or on hot days.\\nWhen building the house, try not to leave any nails around that could harm your dog.\\nIf you'd like to decorate the interior of your dog's house, do that before you attach the roof.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You love your pup but don't love when he sheds? Build an outdoor house for your dog that will keep him dry and warm and your house fur-free. Follow the steps below to create a customized dog house that fits your family's personality .\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider what you'll be using the base for.\", \"描述\": \"Different dogs have different needs, but almost every dog will need the following: an insulated, dry space that he can call home whether it's hot or cold. Pay attention to these factors when building a dog house:\\nThink about insulation. Remember that the base builds the foundation for the whole house and creates a space of air between the ground and the floor that acts as insulation for the house. A house without a base is cooler during the cold months and warmer during the hot months.\\nConsider the specific elements that might affect the base in your outdoor environment. If it rains often in your area, make sure to use a non-toxic, water-resistant material and build the base high enough off of the ground to prevent flooding.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a framing square and a pencil to begin reproducing the diagram you created on the wood itself.\", \"描述\": \"Cut 2x4 wood boards into four pieces, with two at 22-1/2\\\" long and two at 23\\\" long for a medium-sized dog.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place the 23” side pieces inside the 22-1/2” front and back pieces to create a rectangle with the 2\\\" side resting on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes. Then attach the base pieces together using two 3” galvanized wood screws in each end.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Transfer the floor plans by using a pencil and a framing square to a single sheet of 3/4\\\" plywood.\", \"描述\": \"The dimensions are 26\\\" by 22-1/2\\\" for the above sized frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws, attach the floor panel to the base by drilling one screw into each corner of the of the base.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting Up Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Again, use real wood for added insulation and versatility.\", \"描述\": \"Using wood for the dog house will help keep the house insulated, even if the wood is rather thin. For the front wall of the house, make the opening for your dog as small as possible (although still comfortable) in order to allow the house to retain heat.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Transfer the plans for the sides of the house to the same piece of plywood used for the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Each side should be 26\\\" long and 16\\\" wide, while the front and back should be a 24\\\" by 16\\\" rectangle with an attached 12\\\" high and 24\\\" wide triangle on top of the rectangle. Cut out this shape in one piece for both the front and the back of the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave an opening on the front wall of the house about 10\\\" wide and 13\\\" high.\", \"描述\": \"Leave a 3\\\" tall space at the bottom of the opening to cover the base. To create the round arch at the top of the opening, use any round object you have handy, such as a mixing bowl.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut out eight pieces of framing.\", \"描述\": \"Using a piece of 2x2 fir or cedar wood, cut out eight pieces to use as framing to secure the walls and roof. You will need four corner framing pieces 15” long and four roof framing pieces 13” long.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fasten one 15” corner framing piece to each edge of the side frames using three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Then place the side panels on the base and screw galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the front and back panels.\", \"描述\": \"Place the front and back panels on the floor base and attach to the framing with galvanized wood screws every 4–5 inches (10.2–12.7 cm) around the perimeter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Try building a triangular, sloping roof.\", \"描述\": \"This not only allows rain and snow to slide off of the dog house, but also gives your dog more room to stretch out in his humble abode.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw the plans for the roof panels on the 2x2 piece of wood, with the dimensions at 32\\\" long and 20\\\" wide.\", \"描述\": \"These pieces will rest on top of the side panels to form a triangular sloping roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the 13” 2x2 roof framing piece to the inside edges of the front and back panels, halfway between the top and bottom of the angled side of each panel.\", \"描述\": \"Screw three 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws into each panel.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the roof panels on top of the sides, making sure that the peak is tight and panels hang over each side.\", \"描述\": \"Secure the roof panels to the framing pieces using 1-1/4” galvanized wood screws at 3\\\" intervals.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Customizing Your Dog House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Personalize your dog house with paint.\", \"描述\": \"Using only non-toxic paints that won't harm your dog, you can paint the outside of the house to match your own, or pick a fun theme like an underwater scene. If you have small children, it can be fun to allow them to paint the dog house as an art project.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a sturdier roof.\", \"描述\": \"To keep the dog house extra dry, you can cover the entire roof with asphalt-impregnated roofing paper, or tar paper. Once you've covered the house, you can then add shingles for a traditional, sophisticated look.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Furnishing the inside.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your pup comfy by adding a blanket, dog bed, or piece of carpet inside. To add carpet, simply cut a piece of carpet to dimensions one inch smaller than the floor panel and secure it to the floor. Use wood glue if you want the carpet to be permanent, or duct tape if you want to be able to replace the carpet at a later time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add fun accessories to make your pup's house a home.\", \"描述\": \"Hang a name plate with your pooch's name over the front of the opening using a small nail and any type of material sturdy enough to withstand the elements. You can get personalized plates made of metal, make and paint a plate out of wood, or even hang spare dog tags. Make sure that the nail does not poke out to the inside of the house.\\nAttach small hooks to the outside of the dog house to serve as a place to keep your dog's leash or any other toys.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can make your dog house a solar dog house by simply attaching a plexiglass roof.[5]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nU.S. Department of Energy\\nOfficial site for the U.S. Department of Energy, which provides resources related to energy safety, conservation, and efficiency\\nGo to source\\n\\n Then, add the regular roof on hinges so as to open it when the sun is out on cold days and close it at night or on hot days.\\n\", \"When building the house, try not to leave any nails around that could harm your dog.\\n\", \"If you'd like to decorate the interior of your dog's house, do that before you attach the roof.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,321
How to Build a Dog House Out of Pallets
1. Planning the Pallet Dog House 1-1. Gather 3 stringer pallets for the dog house. For this guide, you’ll be building an average-sized doghouse at 40 inches (100 cm) long, 32 inches (81 cm) wide, and 28 inches (71 cm) tall at the top of the slanted roof—big enough for medium and large-sized pups. Check with local retail stores to see if they have free pallets, and ask around at construction sites and bars. Three average-sized pallets (48 inches (120 cm) by 40 inches (100 cm)) are sufficient make your doghouse, but feel free to grab more if you want a little extra wood. A "close-boarded" pallet means there are no spaces between the wooden deck boards, and "stringer" (or alternatively, "2-way") means that only 2 sides are open; the others are held together with thicker wooden stringer boards. A dog house should have enough space to enter the house and turn around. If you have an extra-large dog, build a house that is 25% taller than them and wide enough for them to lay down with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of space on either side. 1-2. Find a shady spot in your yard to place the dog house. Shade extends the life of the dog house and keeps your dog cool on hot days. If possible, set the dog house up against a wall—either your house or a garage—to shield it from the wind. Pay attention to the weather on windy days, so you know which direction the wind most often comes from, and make sure the back of the dog house is facing that direction. 1-3. Even out the ground to ensure the dog house sits flat. Dirt is the most common ground to place a dog house onto; dig up weeds with a trowel or shovel and the backside of a rake to spread the soil around and even it out. Ensure that the ground is entirely clear of grass and as flat as possible. Lay down a third pallet (in its original form, no alterations) and place the dog house on top; this gives the house a foundation and protects it from hot, cold, or wet ground. 2. Dismantling and Cutting the Pallets 2-1. Remove a single side from 2 pallets and take the third apart entirely. Using a hammer and crowbar, pry up the nails holding each board in place. Wedge the tip of the crowbar between the pallet deck board and stringer (the long piece holding all the thinner boards in place) and then hammer it deeper in so you can pry the board up. Continue doing this on each end and the middle of the board before gently removing it from the pallet. This way, you'll have 2 pallet sides with the planks and stringer boards intact for the front and back walls, plus a large pile of loose pallet planks for building the side walls. 2-2. Split the intact side of the pallets to get the front and back walls. Since your pallet boards are roughly 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide, make the front wall 8 horizontal panels high, and the back wall 6 horizontal boards tall. Saw through the vertical stringers holding the pallet boards together with a jigsaw or hand saw. This means that the front wall will be 28 inches (71 cm) tall, and the back will be 21 inches (53 cm) tall. 2-3. Saw the boards you detached from the pallet to 32 inches (81 cm) each. Measure the correct length with a tape measure and mark it in pencil on each board before making your cuts with a hand saw. Make sure you have a dozen 32 in (81 cm) boards total, 6 for either side of the dog house. 2-4. Trim a sheet of plywood to create the floor of the house. Ensure that this piece of plywood matches the exact dimensions of the dog house's walls. The plywood floor of your dog house will be 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm) so that it fits into the structure without any overlapping edges. 2-5. Measure and construct a plywood roof for the house. To protect the rest of the house from rain, cut the plywood 4 inches (10 cm) longer than the dimensions of the house. Since the walls are approximately 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm), your roof will be one slanting piece of plywood measuring 44 inches (110 cm) by 36 inches (91 cm). 3. Assembling the Walls, Floor, and Ceiling 3-1. Join the front and back walls with 32 in (81 cm) side boards. Build the first side wall by standing your front and back walls upright on their sides and attaching a 32 in (81 cm) board between them. Hammer in 2 nails on both ends of the board, or use a nail gun to securely fasten it to each wall. Attach the following 5 panels the same way, and apply wood glue to the sides of each board as you go so that they're secured to one another. Use 24 1.25 in (3.2 cm) nails to attach the walls. Once you have a side wall built, do the same thing on the opposite side. Build up a wall by nailing and gluing boards one at a time until the wall is 6 horizontal boards high—the same height as the back wall. At this point, the walls should be secured, all of them the same height. 3-2. Trace and cut a door into the house's front wall with a jigsaw. Tailor the door to the size of your dog, as making the door too big could allow cold air inside the house and make your pup uncomfortable. In pencil, use a straight-edge to draw a doorway that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) wider than your dog and 6 inches (15 cm) taller than the dog’s body. Then, use your jigsaw to cut the entryway. Measure your pup's body beforehand, so you know how big they are! For a curved entryway, use a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket to trace a curved top of the door. 3-3. Attach the plywood floorboard to the walls of the house. Apply wood glue to the bottom of each wall before nailing on the floor. Then, stick the walls and floor together and start nailing from the bottom of the floor sheet into each house wall. Hammer in a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) nail on each corner, and a single nail in the middle of each wall. You'll need 8 nails total for this step. 3-4. Cover the roof with 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper. Since rain and other harsh weather can damage wood, the next step is making your roof a bit more rain-resistant. Cut a piece of 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper with the same dimensions and fix it to the roof with a staple gun and .375 in (0.95 cm) galvanized staples. That way, the rain will slide off rather than seeping into the wood and getting your pup all wet. 3-5. Nail a wood stopper to the roof to make it removable. Mark the spot where your plywood roof meets the inside of the dog house's back (shortest) wall. Then, grab a scrap piece of pallet wood that's shorter than the width of the wall. Lay it horizontally along the roof, parallel and right up against the markings, and nail it down firmly. When building the roof, use short ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) nails that won't poke through the wood. With an extra board nailed inside the roof, at the bottom of its slant, the roof will sit in place while your dog uses it—but you can also lift the roof off easily to clean inside. 4. Sanding, Staining or Painting, and Furnishing 4-1. Sand down the surface of the finished house. Because pallet wood is so cheap, it's also often rough and splinters easily. To keep your dog safe and comfortable, use a medium-grit sanding block to smooth out all of the house's rough edges. Follow up your initial sanding with a fine-grit sanding block to further smooth the pallet wood. You don't have to smooth the wood out completely if you don't want to. A single round of sanding is plenty, and your dog house will have a rustic look. 4-2. Paint or stain the house with a paint brush to give it a polished look. Stain the house with linseed oil as a non-toxic finish, or select any stain that is labeled as non-toxic and eco-friendly to ensure your furry friend's safety! If you paint your dog house, use water-based latex or acrylic paint. It's non-toxic and unlikely harm your dog if they accidentally ingest the paint. Painting or staining the wood gives your dog house a little personality. Pick whichever product fits the style you're going for! If you want to stain the wood, you'll also preserve the rustic look of the pallet wood. Meanwhile, applying paint will make the dog house wood look brand new. 4-3. Accessorize the house for your dog's comfort. Since weather can more easily ruin a blanket, try cushioning the dog house with either wood shavings, straw, or a moisture-proof foam pad. This will keep your dog comfy without attracting pests or getting ruined on a rainy day. Consider investing in a weather-proof water dish for your pup to drink from while resting outside. If you use wood shavings or straw for padding, change them weekly.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning the Pallet Dog House\\n1-1. Gather 3 stringer pallets for the dog house.\\nFor this guide, you’ll be building an average-sized doghouse at 40 inches (100 cm) long, 32 inches (81 cm) wide, and 28 inches (71 cm) tall at the top of the slanted roof—big enough for medium and large-sized pups. Check with local retail stores to see if they have free pallets, and ask around at construction sites and bars.\\nThree average-sized pallets (48 inches (120 cm) by 40 inches (100 cm)) are sufficient make your doghouse, but feel free to grab more if you want a little extra wood.\\nA \\\"close-boarded\\\" pallet means there are no spaces between the wooden deck boards, and \\\"stringer\\\" (or alternatively, \\\"2-way\\\") means that only 2 sides are open; the others are held together with thicker wooden stringer boards. \\nA dog house should have enough space to enter the house and turn around. If you have an extra-large dog, build a house that is 25% taller than them and wide enough for them to lay down with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of space on either side.\\n1-2. Find a shady spot in your yard to place the dog house.\\nShade extends the life of the dog house and keeps your dog cool on hot days. If possible, set the dog house up against a wall—either your house or a garage—to shield it from the wind. Pay attention to the weather on windy days, so you know which direction the wind most often comes from, and make sure the back of the dog house is facing that direction.\\n1-3. Even out the ground to ensure the dog house sits flat.\\nDirt is the most common ground to place a dog house onto; dig up weeds with a trowel or shovel and the backside of a rake to spread the soil around and even it out. Ensure that the ground is entirely clear of grass and as flat as possible.\\nLay down a third pallet (in its original form, no alterations) and place the dog house on top; this gives the house a foundation and protects it from hot, cold, or wet ground.\\n2. Dismantling and Cutting the Pallets\\n2-1. Remove a single side from 2 pallets and take the third apart entirely.\\nUsing a hammer and crowbar, pry up the nails holding each board in place. Wedge the tip of the crowbar between the pallet deck board and stringer (the long piece holding all the thinner boards in place) and then hammer it deeper in so you can pry the board up.\\nContinue doing this on each end and the middle of the board before gently removing it from the pallet.\\nThis way, you'll have 2 pallet sides with the planks and stringer boards intact for the front and back walls, plus a large pile of loose pallet planks for building the side walls.\\n2-2. Split the intact side of the pallets to get the front and back walls.\\nSince your pallet boards are roughly 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide, make the front wall 8 horizontal panels high, and the back wall 6 horizontal boards tall. Saw through the vertical stringers holding the pallet boards together with a jigsaw or hand saw.\\nThis means that the front wall will be 28 inches (71 cm) tall, and the back will be 21 inches (53 cm) tall.\\n2-3. Saw the boards you detached from the pallet to 32 inches (81 cm) each.\\nMeasure the correct length with a tape measure and mark it in pencil on each board before making your cuts with a hand saw. Make sure you have a dozen 32 in (81 cm) boards total, 6 for either side of the dog house.\\n2-4. Trim a sheet of plywood to create the floor of the house.\\nEnsure that this piece of plywood matches the exact dimensions of the dog house's walls. The plywood floor of your dog house will be 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm) so that it fits into the structure without any overlapping edges.\\n2-5. Measure and construct a plywood roof for the house.\\nTo protect the rest of the house from rain, cut the plywood 4 inches (10 cm) longer than the dimensions of the house. Since the walls are approximately 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm), your roof will be one slanting piece of plywood measuring 44 inches (110 cm) by 36 inches (91 cm).\\n3. Assembling the Walls, Floor, and Ceiling\\n3-1. Join the front and back walls with 32 in (81 cm) side boards.\\nBuild the first side wall by standing your front and back walls upright on their sides and attaching a 32 in (81 cm) board between them. Hammer in 2 nails on both ends of the board, or use a nail gun to securely fasten it to each wall.\\nAttach the following 5 panels the same way, and apply wood glue to the sides of each board as you go so that they're secured to one another.\\nUse 24 1.25 in (3.2 cm) nails to attach the walls.\\nOnce you have a side wall built, do the same thing on the opposite side. Build up a wall by nailing and gluing boards one at a time until the wall is 6 horizontal boards high—the same height as the back wall.\\nAt this point, the walls should be secured, all of them the same height.\\n3-2. Trace and cut a door into the house's front wall with a jigsaw.\\nTailor the door to the size of your dog, as making the door too big could allow cold air inside the house and make your pup uncomfortable. In pencil, use a straight-edge to draw a doorway that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) wider than your dog and 6 inches (15 cm) taller than the dog’s body. Then, use your jigsaw to cut the entryway.\\nMeasure your pup's body beforehand, so you know how big they are!\\nFor a curved entryway, use a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket to trace a curved top of the door.\\n3-3. Attach the plywood floorboard to the walls of the house.\\nApply wood glue to the bottom of each wall before nailing on the floor. Then, stick the walls and floor together and start nailing from the bottom of the floor sheet into each house wall. Hammer in a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) nail on each corner, and a single nail in the middle of each wall.\\nYou'll need 8 nails total for this step.\\n3-4. Cover the roof with 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper.\\nSince rain and other harsh weather can damage wood, the next step is making your roof a bit more rain-resistant. Cut a piece of 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper with the same dimensions and fix it to the roof with a staple gun and .375 in (0.95 cm) galvanized staples. That way, the rain will slide off rather than seeping into the wood and getting your pup all wet.\\n3-5. Nail a wood stopper to the roof to make it removable.\\nMark the spot where your plywood roof meets the inside of the dog house's back (shortest) wall. Then, grab a scrap piece of pallet wood that's shorter than the width of the wall. Lay it horizontally along the roof, parallel and right up against the markings, and nail it down firmly.\\nWhen building the roof, use short ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) nails that won't poke through the wood. \\nWith an extra board nailed inside the roof, at the bottom of its slant, the roof will sit in place while your dog uses it—but you can also lift the roof off easily to clean inside.\\n4. Sanding, Staining or Painting, and Furnishing\\n4-1. Sand down the surface of the finished house.\\nBecause pallet wood is so cheap, it's also often rough and splinters easily. To keep your dog safe and comfortable, use a medium-grit sanding block to smooth out all of the house's rough edges. Follow up your initial sanding with a fine-grit sanding block to further smooth the pallet wood.\\nYou don't have to smooth the wood out completely if you don't want to. A single round of sanding is plenty, and your dog house will have a rustic look.\\n4-2. Paint or stain the house with a paint brush to give it a polished look.\\nStain the house with linseed oil as a non-toxic finish, or select any stain that is labeled as non-toxic and eco-friendly to ensure your furry friend's safety! If you paint your dog house, use water-based latex or acrylic paint. It's non-toxic and unlikely harm your dog if they accidentally ingest the paint.\\nPainting or staining the wood gives your dog house a little personality. Pick whichever product fits the style you're going for!\\nIf you want to stain the wood, you'll also preserve the rustic look of the pallet wood. Meanwhile, applying paint will make the dog house wood look brand new.\\n4-3. Accessorize the house for your dog's comfort.\\nSince weather can more easily ruin a blanket, try cushioning the dog house with either wood shavings, straw, or a moisture-proof foam pad. This will keep your dog comfy without attracting pests or getting ruined on a rainy day.\\nConsider investing in a weather-proof water dish for your pup to drink from while resting outside.\\nIf you use wood shavings or straw for padding, change them weekly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want to put together a cozy dog house on a budget, look no further! Building a dog house out of wooden pallets is much simpler than you might think, and it's a cheap DIY option compared to shopping for a pre-made dog house. Your precious pup deserves the best, so keep reading to learn how you can give them a handmade place to snooze.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning the Pallet Dog House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather 3 stringer pallets for the dog house.\", \"描述\": \"For this guide, you’ll be building an average-sized doghouse at 40 inches (100 cm) long, 32 inches (81 cm) wide, and 28 inches (71 cm) tall at the top of the slanted roof—big enough for medium and large-sized pups. Check with local retail stores to see if they have free pallets, and ask around at construction sites and bars.\\nThree average-sized pallets (48 inches (120 cm) by 40 inches (100 cm)) are sufficient make your doghouse, but feel free to grab more if you want a little extra wood.\\nA \\\"close-boarded\\\" pallet means there are no spaces between the wooden deck boards, and \\\"stringer\\\" (or alternatively, \\\"2-way\\\") means that only 2 sides are open; the others are held together with thicker wooden stringer boards. \\nA dog house should have enough space to enter the house and turn around. If you have an extra-large dog, build a house that is 25% taller than them and wide enough for them to lay down with 2 inches (5.1 cm) of space on either side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a shady spot in your yard to place the dog house.\", \"描述\": \"Shade extends the life of the dog house and keeps your dog cool on hot days. If possible, set the dog house up against a wall—either your house or a garage—to shield it from the wind. Pay attention to the weather on windy days, so you know which direction the wind most often comes from, and make sure the back of the dog house is facing that direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Even out the ground to ensure the dog house sits flat.\", \"描述\": \"Dirt is the most common ground to place a dog house onto; dig up weeds with a trowel or shovel and the backside of a rake to spread the soil around and even it out. Ensure that the ground is entirely clear of grass and as flat as possible.\\nLay down a third pallet (in its original form, no alterations) and place the dog house on top; this gives the house a foundation and protects it from hot, cold, or wet ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dismantling and Cutting the Pallets\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Remove a single side from 2 pallets and take the third apart entirely.\", \"描述\": \"Using a hammer and crowbar, pry up the nails holding each board in place. Wedge the tip of the crowbar between the pallet deck board and stringer (the long piece holding all the thinner boards in place) and then hammer it deeper in so you can pry the board up.\\nContinue doing this on each end and the middle of the board before gently removing it from the pallet.\\nThis way, you'll have 2 pallet sides with the planks and stringer boards intact for the front and back walls, plus a large pile of loose pallet planks for building the side walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Split the intact side of the pallets to get the front and back walls.\", \"描述\": \"Since your pallet boards are roughly 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide, make the front wall 8 horizontal panels high, and the back wall 6 horizontal boards tall. Saw through the vertical stringers holding the pallet boards together with a jigsaw or hand saw.\\nThis means that the front wall will be 28 inches (71 cm) tall, and the back will be 21 inches (53 cm) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Saw the boards you detached from the pallet to 32 inches (81 cm) each.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the correct length with a tape measure and mark it in pencil on each board before making your cuts with a hand saw. Make sure you have a dozen 32 in (81 cm) boards total, 6 for either side of the dog house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trim a sheet of plywood to create the floor of the house.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure that this piece of plywood matches the exact dimensions of the dog house's walls. The plywood floor of your dog house will be 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm) so that it fits into the structure without any overlapping edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure and construct a plywood roof for the house.\", \"描述\": \"To protect the rest of the house from rain, cut the plywood 4 inches (10 cm) longer than the dimensions of the house. Since the walls are approximately 40 inches (100 cm) by 32 inches (81 cm), your roof will be one slanting piece of plywood measuring 44 inches (110 cm) by 36 inches (91 cm).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Walls, Floor, and Ceiling\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Join the front and back walls with 32 in (81 cm) side boards.\", \"描述\": \"Build the first side wall by standing your front and back walls upright on their sides and attaching a 32 in (81 cm) board between them. Hammer in 2 nails on both ends of the board, or use a nail gun to securely fasten it to each wall.\\nAttach the following 5 panels the same way, and apply wood glue to the sides of each board as you go so that they're secured to one another.\\nUse 24 1.25 in (3.2 cm) nails to attach the walls.\\nOnce you have a side wall built, do the same thing on the opposite side. Build up a wall by nailing and gluing boards one at a time until the wall is 6 horizontal boards high—the same height as the back wall.\\nAt this point, the walls should be secured, all of them the same height.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trace and cut a door into the house's front wall with a jigsaw.\", \"描述\": \"Tailor the door to the size of your dog, as making the door too big could allow cold air inside the house and make your pup uncomfortable. In pencil, use a straight-edge to draw a doorway that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) wider than your dog and 6 inches (15 cm) taller than the dog’s body. Then, use your jigsaw to cut the entryway.\\nMeasure your pup's body beforehand, so you know how big they are!\\nFor a curved entryway, use a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket to trace a curved top of the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the plywood floorboard to the walls of the house.\", \"描述\": \"Apply wood glue to the bottom of each wall before nailing on the floor. Then, stick the walls and floor together and start nailing from the bottom of the floor sheet into each house wall. Hammer in a 1 ⁄4 in (3.2 cm) nail on each corner, and a single nail in the middle of each wall.\\nYou'll need 8 nails total for this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the roof with 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper.\", \"描述\": \"Since rain and other harsh weather can damage wood, the next step is making your roof a bit more rain-resistant. Cut a piece of 15 lb (240 oz) tar paper with the same dimensions and fix it to the roof with a staple gun and .375 in (0.95 cm) galvanized staples. That way, the rain will slide off rather than seeping into the wood and getting your pup all wet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail a wood stopper to the roof to make it removable.\", \"描述\": \"Mark the spot where your plywood roof meets the inside of the dog house's back (shortest) wall. Then, grab a scrap piece of pallet wood that's shorter than the width of the wall. Lay it horizontally along the roof, parallel and right up against the markings, and nail it down firmly.\\nWhen building the roof, use short ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) nails that won't poke through the wood. \\nWith an extra board nailed inside the roof, at the bottom of its slant, the roof will sit in place while your dog uses it—but you can also lift the roof off easily to clean inside.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sanding, Staining or Painting, and Furnishing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand down the surface of the finished house.\", \"描述\": \"Because pallet wood is so cheap, it's also often rough and splinters easily. To keep your dog safe and comfortable, use a medium-grit sanding block to smooth out all of the house's rough edges. Follow up your initial sanding with a fine-grit sanding block to further smooth the pallet wood.\\nYou don't have to smooth the wood out completely if you don't want to. A single round of sanding is plenty, and your dog house will have a rustic look.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain the house with a paint brush to give it a polished look.\", \"描述\": \"Stain the house with linseed oil as a non-toxic finish, or select any stain that is labeled as non-toxic and eco-friendly to ensure your furry friend's safety! If you paint your dog house, use water-based latex or acrylic paint. It's non-toxic and unlikely harm your dog if they accidentally ingest the paint.\\nPainting or staining the wood gives your dog house a little personality. Pick whichever product fits the style you're going for!\\nIf you want to stain the wood, you'll also preserve the rustic look of the pallet wood. Meanwhile, applying paint will make the dog house wood look brand new.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Accessorize the house for your dog's comfort.\", \"描述\": \"Since weather can more easily ruin a blanket, try cushioning the dog house with either wood shavings, straw, or a moisture-proof foam pad. This will keep your dog comfy without attracting pests or getting ruined on a rainy day.\\nConsider investing in a weather-proof water dish for your pup to drink from while resting outside.\\nIf you use wood shavings or straw for padding, change them weekly.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
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How to Build a Dog Park
1. Proposing a Community Dog Park to the City 1-1. Meet up with other dog owners to gain support for building a dog park. It’s likely that other people in your area want a dog park as well. Reach out to other dog owners you know to discuss the ideas of building a park. Make a page or group on Facebook so you can easily communicate with one another and invite people from your community. Together, you can meet with city officials, make presentations, and help maintain the park. Ask the members of your group to reach out to other dog owners they know. 1-2. Talk with veterinarians and pet supply stores for local support. As you solidify the idea of building a park, continue expanding and communicating with local pet stores and veterinarians. Tell them your ideas and plans for a dog park to see if it would work well in your area. Ask for their input and support so city officials know you have backing for your cause. Some stores and vets may have public bulletin boards where you can post about building a dog park to gain more support. 1-3. Look for an accessible site that’s at least 1 acre (4,000 m). Search for open property that’s available near your community. Make sure that it’s mostly grassy so the dogs are can walk and run comfortably. The property should be 1 acre (4,000 m) at the minimum so multiple dogs can be there at a time. Look for open spaces in public parks to see if you can use that space. 1-4. Make a budget for fencing, materials, and maintenance of the dog park. A 1 acre (4,000 m) dog park can cost around $30,000 for fences, construction work, and amenities. Some cities may help with the financing, but others may want to share the cost with your group. Plan out all of the materials you need for your dog park so you can get a rough estimate of the costs. Budgets can vary on the amount of work that needs to be done on the land. 1-5. Generate money with fundraisers or donations. City officials may ask how you and your committee can help with funding and upkeep of the dog park. Hold fundraisers, such as a dog bath or a dog costume contest, to help raise money through fun events. You may also choose to ask for community donations and sponsorships from local pet stores. Ask the city officials if they can make a gift fund for your dog park so others can donate money directly to it. 1-6. Create a proposal presentation for your dog park. Your proposal should include what your goals for the property are and address any issues with the property, funding, or maintenance. Talk about the support you’ve gained from other dog owners and local businesses to help convince others that a dog park is necessary. Conclude your proposal by summarizing why a dog park is necessary for your community. 1-7. Present your proposal to your city’s government. Request a hearing with your local government so you can go over your proposal document. Bring 2-3 members of your group that are knowledgable and articulate to help you present. Address the benefits of the dog park in your area and calmly talk through any concerns they may have. Field any questions they have for you as best as you can. Common concerns that may come up include dog bites, noise level, parking, maintenance, and traffic. Prepare answers to these concerns ahead of time so you’re able to clarify them later. 1-8. Follow up over email and over the phone after your presentation. You may not get immediately approved for the dog park right after your proposal. Reach out to the city officials you met with by sending them an email so you can continue discussions. Be willing to make compromises with the officials so you have the most chance at success. 2. Designing and Maintaining the Park 2-1. Build a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) fence around the area. Large dogs can jump over fences that are any shorter than 4 ft (1.2 m) tall. Choose a chainlink fence for the cheapest and safest option. Make sure the entrance to your dog park has a double-gated entrance so there’s a space where dog owners can take off their dogs’ leashes. If you have room in your park, provide different areas for large and small dogs. This can reduce the risk of any fighting between dogs of different sizes. 2-2. Display the rules and regulations of the park near the entrance. Make sure the sign is visible and easy to read. Provide helpful information, such as the hours that the park is open and any rules and restrictions. Place one of the signs right at the entrance and 2-3 more signs around your park. 2-3. Place benches or tables throughout the park so dog owners can relax. Owners need a place to relax and socialize too. Set up a few areas throughout the dog park where owners can sit in the shade and enjoy the park. Aim to have at least 2 benches and 2 tables in a park that’s 1 acre (4,000 m). 2-4. Make areas for shade and water. If there aren’t any trees, plant a few around the park or build pavilion areas so dogs and owners can sit in the shade. Install at least 1 or 2 drinking fountains in the dog park so owners and dogs can have a drink if they get exhausted. Call a plumbing specialist to help place water lines and install drinking fountains. 2-5. Provide covered garbage cans, waste bags, and pooper scoopers. Create multiple stations in the park that carry waste bags and scoopers so owners can go clean up after their dog. Make sure they’re always stocked so the dog park stays clean. 2-6. Volunteer to help with maintenance and clean-up. Volunteering can help cut costs and shows city officials that people are using the space. Along with the rest of your group, choose a time every week to visit the park to take care of it. Cut the grass, change the garbages, and restock any supplies that are out in the clean-up stations. Talk to local kennel clubs and the parks department to help organize cleanup days. 3. Making a Personal Dog Park in Your Yard 3-1. Fence in an area large enough to play fetch in. Make sure there’s enough space for you and your dogs to play together. Choose an area where you can still see your dog while you’re indoors. Use a chainlink fence that’s at least 4 ft (1.2 m) tall so your dog doesn’t jump over it. If you already have a fenced-in yard, you may split it so one side is the dog park and the other is a social area you can use. Consider using the yard on the side of your home if you have the space. 3-2. Give your dog a bowl of water so it can stay hydrated. While your dog is playing, it may tire out and get thirsty. Keep a water dish somewhere nearby so your dog can get a drink when it needs one. If you notice that it’s empty throughout the day, refill it. Change the water daily so it stays fresh. 3-3. Set up an obstacle course for your dog so it stays entertained. An obstacle course can consist of ramps, small jumps, or climbing rocks. Place the obstacles so your dog can easily run between them. Make sure you leave enough space so you can walk around them if you need to. You can find dog obstacle courses online or at pet stores. 3-4. Make an outdoor dog bed or shelter so it stays comfortable. Build a doghouse or buy a prebuilt shelter so your dog can rest in the shade when it gets too hot. If you want a more comfortable area for your dog in the sun, look for an outdoor bed. 3-5. Provide your dog with a sandbox so it can dig. Fill a kid’s swimming pool with sand and dirt, and hide some dog toys underneath. This way, your dog can dig without damaging your lawn and gives it a new toy to play with. Warnings Always watch your dog while its off its leash in the dog park so it doesn't get into any trouble.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Proposing a Community Dog Park to the City\\n1-1. Meet up with other dog owners to gain support for building a dog park.\\nIt’s likely that other people in your area want a dog park as well. Reach out to other dog owners you know to discuss the ideas of building a park. Make a page or group on Facebook so you can easily communicate with one another and invite people from your community. Together, you can meet with city officials, make presentations, and help maintain the park. \\nAsk the members of your group to reach out to other dog owners they know.\\n1-2. Talk with veterinarians and pet supply stores for local support.\\nAs you solidify the idea of building a park, continue expanding and communicating with local pet stores and veterinarians. Tell them your ideas and plans for a dog park to see if it would work well in your area. Ask for their input and support so city officials know you have backing for your cause.\\nSome stores and vets may have public bulletin boards where you can post about building a dog park to gain more support.\\n1-3. Look for an accessible site that’s at least 1 acre (4,000 m).\\nSearch for open property that’s available near your community. Make sure that it’s mostly grassy so the dogs are can walk and run comfortably. The property should be 1 acre (4,000 m) at the minimum so multiple dogs can be there at a time.\\nLook for open spaces in public parks to see if you can use that space.\\n1-4. Make a budget for fencing, materials, and maintenance of the dog park.\\nA 1 acre (4,000 m) dog park can cost around $30,000 for fences, construction work, and amenities. Some cities may help with the financing, but others may want to share the cost with your group. Plan out all of the materials you need for your dog park so you can get a rough estimate of the costs.\\nBudgets can vary on the amount of work that needs to be done on the land.\\n1-5. Generate money with fundraisers or donations.\\nCity officials may ask how you and your committee can help with funding and upkeep of the dog park. Hold fundraisers, such as a dog bath or a dog costume contest, to help raise money through fun events. You may also choose to ask for community donations and sponsorships from local pet stores.\\nAsk the city officials if they can make a gift fund for your dog park so others can donate money directly to it.\\n1-6. Create a proposal presentation for your dog park.\\nYour proposal should include what your goals for the property are and address any issues with the property, funding, or maintenance. Talk about the support you’ve gained from other dog owners and local businesses to help convince others that a dog park is necessary. Conclude your proposal by summarizing why a dog park is necessary for your community.\\n1-7. Present your proposal to your city’s government.\\nRequest a hearing with your local government so you can go over your proposal document. Bring 2-3 members of your group that are knowledgable and articulate to help you present. Address the benefits of the dog park in your area and calmly talk through any concerns they may have. Field any questions they have for you as best as you can.\\nCommon concerns that may come up include dog bites, noise level, parking, maintenance, and traffic. Prepare answers to these concerns ahead of time so you’re able to clarify them later.\\n1-8. Follow up over email and over the phone after your presentation.\\nYou may not get immediately approved for the dog park right after your proposal. Reach out to the city officials you met with by sending them an email so you can continue discussions. Be willing to make compromises with the officials so you have the most chance at success.\\n2. Designing and Maintaining the Park\\n2-1. Build a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) fence around the area.\\nLarge dogs can jump over fences that are any shorter than 4 ft (1.2 m) tall. Choose a chainlink fence for the cheapest and safest option. Make sure the entrance to your dog park has a double-gated entrance so there’s a space where dog owners can take off their dogs’ leashes.\\nIf you have room in your park, provide different areas for large and small dogs. This can reduce the risk of any fighting between dogs of different sizes.\\n2-2. Display the rules and regulations of the park near the entrance.\\nMake sure the sign is visible and easy to read. Provide helpful information, such as the hours that the park is open and any rules and restrictions. Place one of the signs right at the entrance and 2-3 more signs around your park.\\n2-3. Place benches or tables throughout the park so dog owners can relax.\\nOwners need a place to relax and socialize too. Set up a few areas throughout the dog park where owners can sit in the shade and enjoy the park. Aim to have at least 2 benches and 2 tables in a park that’s 1 acre (4,000 m).\\n2-4. Make areas for shade and water.\\nIf there aren’t any trees, plant a few around the park or build pavilion areas so dogs and owners can sit in the shade. Install at least 1 or 2 drinking fountains in the dog park so owners and dogs can have a drink if they get exhausted.\\nCall a plumbing specialist to help place water lines and install drinking fountains.\\n2-5. Provide covered garbage cans, waste bags, and pooper scoopers.\\nCreate multiple stations in the park that carry waste bags and scoopers so owners can go clean up after their dog. Make sure they’re always stocked so the dog park stays clean.\\n2-6. Volunteer to help with maintenance and clean-up.\\nVolunteering can help cut costs and shows city officials that people are using the space. Along with the rest of your group, choose a time every week to visit the park to take care of it. Cut the grass, change the garbages, and restock any supplies that are out in the clean-up stations.\\nTalk to local kennel clubs and the parks department to help organize cleanup days.\\n3. Making a Personal Dog Park in Your Yard\\n3-1. Fence in an area large enough to play fetch in.\\nMake sure there’s enough space for you and your dogs to play together. Choose an area where you can still see your dog while you’re indoors. Use a chainlink fence that’s at least 4 ft (1.2 m) tall so your dog doesn’t jump over it.\\nIf you already have a fenced-in yard, you may split it so one side is the dog park and the other is a social area you can use.\\nConsider using the yard on the side of your home if you have the space.\\n3-2. Give your dog a bowl of water so it can stay hydrated.\\nWhile your dog is playing, it may tire out and get thirsty. Keep a water dish somewhere nearby so your dog can get a drink when it needs one. If you notice that it’s empty throughout the day, refill it.\\nChange the water daily so it stays fresh.\\n3-3. Set up an obstacle course for your dog so it stays entertained.\\nAn obstacle course can consist of ramps, small jumps, or climbing rocks. Place the obstacles so your dog can easily run between them. Make sure you leave enough space so you can walk around them if you need to.\\nYou can find dog obstacle courses online or at pet stores.\\n3-4. Make an outdoor dog bed or shelter so it stays comfortable.\\nBuild a doghouse or buy a prebuilt shelter so your dog can rest in the shade when it gets too hot. If you want a more comfortable area for your dog in the sun, look for an outdoor bed.\\n3-5. Provide your dog with a sandbox so it can dig.\\nFill a kid’s swimming pool with sand and dirt, and hide some dog toys underneath. This way, your dog can dig without damaging your lawn and gives it a new toy to play with.\\nWarnings\\nAlways watch your dog while its off its leash in the dog park so it doesn't get into any trouble.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dog parks are a great place for your dog to socialize with others and exercise while it’s off its leash. If your community doesn’t already have a dog park, you can propose building one to your city officials to make a public space for all dog owners to use. If you want a private area for your dog, you can even make a small park in your own yard where you can bond together. When your dog park is finished, you can enjoy the time outdoors with your pet!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Proposing a Community Dog Park to the City\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Meet up with other dog owners to gain support for building a dog park.\", \"描述\": \"It’s likely that other people in your area want a dog park as well. Reach out to other dog owners you know to discuss the ideas of building a park. Make a page or group on Facebook so you can easily communicate with one another and invite people from your community. Together, you can meet with city officials, make presentations, and help maintain the park. \\nAsk the members of your group to reach out to other dog owners they know.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Talk with veterinarians and pet supply stores for local support.\", \"描述\": \"As you solidify the idea of building a park, continue expanding and communicating with local pet stores and veterinarians. Tell them your ideas and plans for a dog park to see if it would work well in your area. Ask for their input and support so city officials know you have backing for your cause.\\nSome stores and vets may have public bulletin boards where you can post about building a dog park to gain more support.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for an accessible site that’s at least 1 acre (4,000 m).\", \"描述\": \"Search for open property that’s available near your community. Make sure that it’s mostly grassy so the dogs are can walk and run comfortably. The property should be 1 acre (4,000 m) at the minimum so multiple dogs can be there at a time.\\nLook for open spaces in public parks to see if you can use that space.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a budget for fencing, materials, and maintenance of the dog park.\", \"描述\": \"A 1 acre (4,000 m) dog park can cost around $30,000 for fences, construction work, and amenities. Some cities may help with the financing, but others may want to share the cost with your group. Plan out all of the materials you need for your dog park so you can get a rough estimate of the costs.\\nBudgets can vary on the amount of work that needs to be done on the land.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Generate money with fundraisers or donations.\", \"描述\": \"City officials may ask how you and your committee can help with funding and upkeep of the dog park. Hold fundraisers, such as a dog bath or a dog costume contest, to help raise money through fun events. You may also choose to ask for community donations and sponsorships from local pet stores.\\nAsk the city officials if they can make a gift fund for your dog park so others can donate money directly to it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a proposal presentation for your dog park.\", \"描述\": \"Your proposal should include what your goals for the property are and address any issues with the property, funding, or maintenance. Talk about the support you’ve gained from other dog owners and local businesses to help convince others that a dog park is necessary. Conclude your proposal by summarizing why a dog park is necessary for your community.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Present your proposal to your city’s government.\", \"描述\": \"Request a hearing with your local government so you can go over your proposal document. Bring 2-3 members of your group that are knowledgable and articulate to help you present. Address the benefits of the dog park in your area and calmly talk through any concerns they may have. Field any questions they have for you as best as you can.\\nCommon concerns that may come up include dog bites, noise level, parking, maintenance, and traffic. Prepare answers to these concerns ahead of time so you’re able to clarify them later.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Follow up over email and over the phone after your presentation.\", \"描述\": \"You may not get immediately approved for the dog park right after your proposal. Reach out to the city officials you met with by sending them an email so you can continue discussions. Be willing to make compromises with the officials so you have the most chance at success.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Designing and Maintaining the Park\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) fence around the area.\", \"描述\": \"Large dogs can jump over fences that are any shorter than 4 ft (1.2 m) tall. Choose a chainlink fence for the cheapest and safest option. Make sure the entrance to your dog park has a double-gated entrance so there’s a space where dog owners can take off their dogs’ leashes.\\nIf you have room in your park, provide different areas for large and small dogs. This can reduce the risk of any fighting between dogs of different sizes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Display the rules and regulations of the park near the entrance.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the sign is visible and easy to read. Provide helpful information, such as the hours that the park is open and any rules and restrictions. Place one of the signs right at the entrance and 2-3 more signs around your park.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place benches or tables throughout the park so dog owners can relax.\", \"描述\": \"Owners need a place to relax and socialize too. Set up a few areas throughout the dog park where owners can sit in the shade and enjoy the park. Aim to have at least 2 benches and 2 tables in a park that’s 1 acre (4,000 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make areas for shade and water.\", \"描述\": \"If there aren’t any trees, plant a few around the park or build pavilion areas so dogs and owners can sit in the shade. Install at least 1 or 2 drinking fountains in the dog park so owners and dogs can have a drink if they get exhausted.\\nCall a plumbing specialist to help place water lines and install drinking fountains.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Provide covered garbage cans, waste bags, and pooper scoopers.\", \"描述\": \"Create multiple stations in the park that carry waste bags and scoopers so owners can go clean up after their dog. Make sure they’re always stocked so the dog park stays clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Volunteer to help with maintenance and clean-up.\", \"描述\": \"Volunteering can help cut costs and shows city officials that people are using the space. Along with the rest of your group, choose a time every week to visit the park to take care of it. Cut the grass, change the garbages, and restock any supplies that are out in the clean-up stations.\\nTalk to local kennel clubs and the parks department to help organize cleanup days.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Personal Dog Park in Your Yard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fence in an area large enough to play fetch in.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure there’s enough space for you and your dogs to play together. Choose an area where you can still see your dog while you’re indoors. Use a chainlink fence that’s at least 4 ft (1.2 m) tall so your dog doesn’t jump over it.\\nIf you already have a fenced-in yard, you may split it so one side is the dog park and the other is a social area you can use.\\nConsider using the yard on the side of your home if you have the space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give your dog a bowl of water so it can stay hydrated.\", \"描述\": \"While your dog is playing, it may tire out and get thirsty. Keep a water dish somewhere nearby so your dog can get a drink when it needs one. If you notice that it’s empty throughout the day, refill it.\\nChange the water daily so it stays fresh.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up an obstacle course for your dog so it stays entertained.\", \"描述\": \"An obstacle course can consist of ramps, small jumps, or climbing rocks. Place the obstacles so your dog can easily run between them. Make sure you leave enough space so you can walk around them if you need to.\\nYou can find dog obstacle courses online or at pet stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make an outdoor dog bed or shelter so it stays comfortable.\", \"描述\": \"Build a doghouse or buy a prebuilt shelter so your dog can rest in the shade when it gets too hot. If you want a more comfortable area for your dog in the sun, look for an outdoor bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Provide your dog with a sandbox so it can dig.\", \"描述\": \"Fill a kid’s swimming pool with sand and dirt, and hide some dog toys underneath. This way, your dog can dig without damaging your lawn and gives it a new toy to play with.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always watch your dog while its off its leash in the dog park so it doesn't get into any trouble.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,323
How to Build a Dog Ramp
1. Measuring and Cutting the Components 1-1. Measure how long and high the ramp needs to be. Choose the spot where you plan on using the ramp. Starting at the top of the area you wish to help the dog reach, measure straight down to the ground to determine the height the ramp needs to be. To determine the ramp’s length, measure from the top of the area down to the ground at a gentle slope your dog will be able to walk up. A few places where a ramp may be useful include near a steep step, couch, or bed. The ramp can be as long as you want it to be, although longer ramps can be more difficult to move and store. Make sure that the ramp’s slope isn’t too steep for your dog. If your dog is older or has trouble climbing small steps, keep the angle very gentle. Elongate the ramp as needed to avoid steepness. 1-2. Wear eye glasses and a dust mask before cutting wood. You will need to cut several pieces of wood in order to construct the ramp. Before operating a saw, protect your eyes and airways. Avoid wearing gloves, jewelry, or other long clothing that can get caught under saw blades. Many home improvement stores will cut the wood for you if you buy it from them. Take all of your measurements in advance to reduce the amount of sawing you need to do at home. Also wear safety gear when drilling and assembling the ramp, since wood dust and shards are still a risk. 1-3. Cut 2 pine boards to the length of the ramp using a miter saw. These pine boards will make up the ramp’s frame. They should always be as long as the ramp you plan on installing. You can easily cut these pieces to length using a miter saw or jigsaw. Hand saws are another easy method you can use, but cheaper blades tend to blunt quickly. For an average-sized ramp, use boards ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick. Cut them 50 in (130 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. 1-4. Use the side boards to measure and cut the ramp’s length. Lay a piece of plywood down on a flat surface, then adjust the pine boards to determine how wide you want the ramp to be. A reasonable width for many dogs is 12 inches (30 cm), although you can widen the ramp to compensate for larger dogs. Trace the side boards in pencil on the ramp, then cut it to size. For a bigger ramp, get a piece of plywood that is ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick. Trim it so it is 48 in (120 cm) long and 24 in (61 cm) wide. If you want to save money, look around your home to see if you can find loose bits of wood to repurpose. Also check out any lumber salvage yards to see what they have available. 1-5. Create 2 side supports as long and as thick as the ramp. These supports will frame the ramp, connecting it to the side boards. These supports do not need to be very wide, only enough to keep the top half of the ramp even with the base beneath it. Use the ramp and side boards as a guideline for your measurements. For example, try making each support 48 ⁄2 in (123 cm) and about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide. If you aren’t sure how big the ramp’s base will be, leave the side supports a little wider or wait to cut them so you get the correct size. 1-6. Slice 2 more pine boards to create the ramp’s legs. The ramp needs 2 legs to support the higher end. The other end will rest against the boards used for the base. The legs should be about as tall as the ramp is. An average size for the legs is 21 in (53 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide. These will fit a ramp 24 in (61 cm) tall. For aesthetics, you can round the tops of the legs with a jigsaw. This will eliminate corners that may stick out from the ramp after you assemble it. 1-7. Cut out 4 boards needed to assemble the base. The base can be the most complicated part, depending on how you build it. A simplified base can be made using only 4 boards, which provide a frame for the ramp and legs to attach to. Cut these out of pine boards about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick. For an average ramp, cut 2 boards 23 ⁄2 in (60 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. These will form the short ends of the base. The longer ends of the base should be of a similar length to the ramp. Try making them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. For additional stability, get 2 runner boards to attach to the longer base boards. For example, you can make them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide. 2. Building the Ramp’s Base 2-1. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the boards for the base. Assemble the 4 base boards together to form basic shape of the base. To attach the boards together, you will need to create holes on each end of the longer boards. Plan on making each hole about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the end of the board. Position each hole ⅓ of the way from the board’s top or bottom edge. Mark the boards with a pencil first, then drill through the marks with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit. You will end up with a total of 4 holes on each of the long boards. 2-2. Attach the base boards together with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws. Place a screw in each pre-drilled hole, then use an electric screwdriver to secure the boards. Before moving on, push against the base boards, looking for any wiggling. This can be a sign of loose boards and an unstable ramp, so tighten the screws! If the base seems unstable, you can cut some thin pieces of wood. Cut the runners almost as long as the side base boards, lay them flat inside the base, then screw them to the side boards. 2-3. Attach the legs to the base with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts. Position the legs upright inside of the base, right against the corners where the base boards meet. The legs will hold up the taller side of the ramp. Drill a single hole about 5 in (13 cm) up the wide part of each leg and into the side base board. Add 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) long, ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide carriage bolts to complete the base. For additional stability, place a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washer onto the end of each bolt. The legs have to bear a lot of weight, so only use strong bolts. They hold up better than screws. Never use nails! 3. Assembling the Ramp 3-1. Lay the plywood ramp between the side supports. Make sure the ramp and the other components are as straight as you can get them before you screw them together. To start, place the 48 in (120 cm)-long supports to the left and right of the ramp. They should lay flat on your work surface and be level with the ramp. Check the ramp to make sure its edges are flush with the edges of the supporting structures. The side supports should be the same thickness as the ramp. 3-2. Fasten the side supports with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) construction screws. Measure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the supports and mark these spots in pencil. These spots should be in the middle of boards, even with the plywood ramp. Then, drill through each spot with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Finish by screwing the screws through the side of the supports and into the plywood ramp. Clamp the boards in place first to ensure they don’t slip out of alignment. Then, pre-drill the holes prevent cracking or splintering in the wood. To stabilize longer ramps, consider positioning additional screws along the supports. Use them to secure the ramp to the supports 3-3. Attach the side borders with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws. Set the side borders against the supports, then measure about every 12.5 in (32 cm) along their center. Mark each spot in pencil to indicate where you need to drill. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit, drill into each spot, then place the screws to secure the wood together. Depending on the length of your ramp, you may need to adjust the positioning of the screws. Try to keep them at an even distance from one another and the ends of the ramp. 3-4. Secure the legs to the ramp with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts. Position the ramp on top of the base, aligning the sides with the tops of the legs. Measure about 3 in (7.6 cm) down from the top of each leg and drill a hole through it using a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit. Screw the bolts into position, then slide ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washers or locking nuts on the ends of each of them for additional stability. You will need to use an adjustable wrench to tighten the washers or locking nuts on the bolts. Make sure the legs are straight vertically and that the ramp is at the slope you need it to be. If the ramp looks crooked, undo the bolts and reposition the components as needed. 3-5. Sand the ramp with 180-grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges. You have successfully constructed your ramp, so take some quick precautions to prevent your dog from getting splinters when they use it. The cut edges in particular may look a little sharp or jagged. Using sandpaper or a sanding block, lightly rub down these areas. As long as you press down lightly on the wood, the sandpaper shouldn’t cause any scratches. You can test the wood’s smoothness by touching it with your finger. If you notice any rough parts, keep sanding them until they feel smooth. 3-6. Decorate the ramp with carpeting to make it softer. Find a scrap piece of carpeting, then use a utility knife or carpet cutter to cut a portion the same size as your ramp. Lay the carpeting over the ramp. To secure the carpeting, staple the top and bottom ends directly to the ramp with a staple gun. You can purchase new carpeting or repurpose old scraps. Try looking at a local thrift shops or carpeting outlets for fabrics on clearance. Carpeting is soft on paws and adds aesthetic to your ramp. This is a great opportunity to get creative. Choose colors or patterns that match your room! For outdoor ramps, make sure you get something water-resistant. Tips Ask to have the boards cut when you buy them. Many home improvement stores provide this service as long as you indicate what measurements you need. If you don’t have power tools, such as table saw, check your local home goods store to see if you can rent them. Get creative with your ramp! There are many ways to customize it, including its length and the kind of fabric used for cover. You can also add features like a hinge for folding or a platform at the top. Warnings Operating power tools and saws can be dangerous. Always wear proper safety gear, such as protective glasses and a dust mask.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Measuring and Cutting the Components\\n1-1. Measure how long and high the ramp needs to be.\\nChoose the spot where you plan on using the ramp. Starting at the top of the area you wish to help the dog reach, measure straight down to the ground to determine the height the ramp needs to be. To determine the ramp’s length, measure from the top of the area down to the ground at a gentle slope your dog will be able to walk up.\\nA few places where a ramp may be useful include near a steep step, couch, or bed.\\nThe ramp can be as long as you want it to be, although longer ramps can be more difficult to move and store.\\nMake sure that the ramp’s slope isn’t too steep for your dog. If your dog is older or has trouble climbing small steps, keep the angle very gentle. Elongate the ramp as needed to avoid steepness.\\n1-2. Wear eye glasses and a dust mask before cutting wood.\\nYou will need to cut several pieces of wood in order to construct the ramp. Before operating a saw, protect your eyes and airways. Avoid wearing gloves, jewelry, or other long clothing that can get caught under saw blades.\\nMany home improvement stores will cut the wood for you if you buy it from them. Take all of your measurements in advance to reduce the amount of sawing you need to do at home.\\nAlso wear safety gear when drilling and assembling the ramp, since wood dust and shards are still a risk.\\n1-3. Cut 2 pine boards to the length of the ramp using a miter saw.\\nThese pine boards will make up the ramp’s frame. They should always be as long as the ramp you plan on installing. You can easily cut these pieces to length using a miter saw or jigsaw. Hand saws are another easy method you can use, but cheaper blades tend to blunt quickly.\\nFor an average-sized ramp, use boards ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick. Cut them 50 in (130 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide.\\n1-4. Use the side boards to measure and cut the ramp’s length.\\nLay a piece of plywood down on a flat surface, then adjust the pine boards to determine how wide you want the ramp to be. A reasonable width for many dogs is 12 inches (30 cm), although you can widen the ramp to compensate for larger dogs. Trace the side boards in pencil on the ramp, then cut it to size.\\nFor a bigger ramp, get a piece of plywood that is ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick. Trim it so it is 48 in (120 cm) long and 24 in (61 cm) wide.\\nIf you want to save money, look around your home to see if you can find loose bits of wood to repurpose. Also check out any lumber salvage yards to see what they have available.\\n1-5. Create 2 side supports as long and as thick as the ramp.\\nThese supports will frame the ramp, connecting it to the side boards. These supports do not need to be very wide, only enough to keep the top half of the ramp even with the base beneath it. Use the ramp and side boards as a guideline for your measurements.\\nFor example, try making each support 48 ⁄2 in (123 cm) and about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide.\\nIf you aren’t sure how big the ramp’s base will be, leave the side supports a little wider or wait to cut them so you get the correct size.\\n1-6. Slice 2 more pine boards to create the ramp’s legs.\\nThe ramp needs 2 legs to support the higher end. The other end will rest against the boards used for the base. The legs should be about as tall as the ramp is.\\nAn average size for the legs is 21 in (53 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide. These will fit a ramp 24 in (61 cm) tall.\\nFor aesthetics, you can round the tops of the legs with a jigsaw. This will eliminate corners that may stick out from the ramp after you assemble it.\\n1-7. Cut out 4 boards needed to assemble the base.\\nThe base can be the most complicated part, depending on how you build it. A simplified base can be made using only 4 boards, which provide a frame for the ramp and legs to attach to. Cut these out of pine boards about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick.\\nFor an average ramp, cut 2 boards 23 ⁄2 in (60 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. These will form the short ends of the base.\\nThe longer ends of the base should be of a similar length to the ramp. Try making them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide.\\nFor additional stability, get 2 runner boards to attach to the longer base boards. For example, you can make them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide.\\n2. Building the Ramp’s Base\\n2-1. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the boards for the base.\\nAssemble the 4 base boards together to form basic shape of the base. To attach the boards together, you will need to create holes on each end of the longer boards. Plan on making each hole about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the end of the board. Position each hole ⅓ of the way from the board’s top or bottom edge.\\nMark the boards with a pencil first, then drill through the marks with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit.\\nYou will end up with a total of 4 holes on each of the long boards.\\n2-2. Attach the base boards together with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws.\\nPlace a screw in each pre-drilled hole, then use an electric screwdriver to secure the boards. Before moving on, push against the base boards, looking for any wiggling. This can be a sign of loose boards and an unstable ramp, so tighten the screws!\\nIf the base seems unstable, you can cut some thin pieces of wood. Cut the runners almost as long as the side base boards, lay them flat inside the base, then screw them to the side boards.\\n2-3. Attach the legs to the base with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts.\\nPosition the legs upright inside of the base, right against the corners where the base boards meet. The legs will hold up the taller side of the ramp. Drill a single hole about 5 in (13 cm) up the wide part of each leg and into the side base board. Add 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) long, ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide carriage bolts to complete the base.\\nFor additional stability, place a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washer onto the end of each bolt.\\nThe legs have to bear a lot of weight, so only use strong bolts. They hold up better than screws. Never use nails!\\n3. Assembling the Ramp\\n3-1. Lay the plywood ramp between the side supports.\\nMake sure the ramp and the other components are as straight as you can get them before you screw them together. To start, place the 48 in (120 cm)-long supports to the left and right of the ramp. They should lay flat on your work surface and be level with the ramp.\\nCheck the ramp to make sure its edges are flush with the edges of the supporting structures. The side supports should be the same thickness as the ramp.\\n3-2. Fasten the side supports with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) construction screws.\\nMeasure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the supports and mark these spots in pencil. These spots should be in the middle of boards, even with the plywood ramp. Then, drill through each spot with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Finish by screwing the screws through the side of the supports and into the plywood ramp.\\nClamp the boards in place first to ensure they don’t slip out of alignment. Then, pre-drill the holes prevent cracking or splintering in the wood.\\nTo stabilize longer ramps, consider positioning additional screws along the supports. Use them to secure the ramp to the supports\\n3-3. Attach the side borders with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws.\\nSet the side borders against the supports, then measure about every 12.5 in (32 cm) along their center. Mark each spot in pencil to indicate where you need to drill. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit, drill into each spot, then place the screws to secure the wood together.\\nDepending on the length of your ramp, you may need to adjust the positioning of the screws. Try to keep them at an even distance from one another and the ends of the ramp.\\n3-4. Secure the legs to the ramp with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts.\\nPosition the ramp on top of the base, aligning the sides with the tops of the legs. Measure about 3 in (7.6 cm) down from the top of each leg and drill a hole through it using a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit. Screw the bolts into position, then slide ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washers or locking nuts on the ends of each of them for additional stability.\\nYou will need to use an adjustable wrench to tighten the washers or locking nuts on the bolts.\\nMake sure the legs are straight vertically and that the ramp is at the slope you need it to be. If the ramp looks crooked, undo the bolts and reposition the components as needed.\\n3-5. Sand the ramp with 180-grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges.\\nYou have successfully constructed your ramp, so take some quick precautions to prevent your dog from getting splinters when they use it. The cut edges in particular may look a little sharp or jagged. Using sandpaper or a sanding block, lightly rub down these areas.\\nAs long as you press down lightly on the wood, the sandpaper shouldn’t cause any scratches.\\nYou can test the wood’s smoothness by touching it with your finger. If you notice any rough parts, keep sanding them until they feel smooth.\\n3-6. Decorate the ramp with carpeting to make it softer.\\nFind a scrap piece of carpeting, then use a utility knife or carpet cutter to cut a portion the same size as your ramp. Lay the carpeting over the ramp. To secure the carpeting, staple the top and bottom ends directly to the ramp with a staple gun.\\nYou can purchase new carpeting or repurpose old scraps. Try looking at a local thrift shops or carpeting outlets for fabrics on clearance.\\nCarpeting is soft on paws and adds aesthetic to your ramp. This is a great opportunity to get creative. Choose colors or patterns that match your room!\\nFor outdoor ramps, make sure you get something water-resistant.\\nTips\\nAsk to have the boards cut when you buy them. Many home improvement stores provide this service as long as you indicate what measurements you need.\\nIf you don’t have power tools, such as table saw, check your local home goods store to see if you can rent them.\\nGet creative with your ramp! There are many ways to customize it, including its length and the kind of fabric used for cover. You can also add features like a hinge for folding or a platform at the top.\\nWarnings\\nOperating power tools and saws can be dangerous. Always wear proper safety gear, such as protective glasses and a dust mask.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A ramp can be a huge help for any dog having trouble handling steps, getting into the car, or climbing furniture. Although you can buy dog ramps from stores, they are relatively simple to make at home out of plywood and wood boards. With a few tools, you can assemble and customize a ramp to fit your dog no matter their size.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measuring and Cutting the Components\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure how long and high the ramp needs to be.\", \"描述\": \"Choose the spot where you plan on using the ramp. Starting at the top of the area you wish to help the dog reach, measure straight down to the ground to determine the height the ramp needs to be. To determine the ramp’s length, measure from the top of the area down to the ground at a gentle slope your dog will be able to walk up.\\nA few places where a ramp may be useful include near a steep step, couch, or bed.\\nThe ramp can be as long as you want it to be, although longer ramps can be more difficult to move and store.\\nMake sure that the ramp’s slope isn’t too steep for your dog. If your dog is older or has trouble climbing small steps, keep the angle very gentle. Elongate the ramp as needed to avoid steepness.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wear eye glasses and a dust mask before cutting wood.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to cut several pieces of wood in order to construct the ramp. Before operating a saw, protect your eyes and airways. Avoid wearing gloves, jewelry, or other long clothing that can get caught under saw blades.\\nMany home improvement stores will cut the wood for you if you buy it from them. Take all of your measurements in advance to reduce the amount of sawing you need to do at home.\\nAlso wear safety gear when drilling and assembling the ramp, since wood dust and shards are still a risk.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 pine boards to the length of the ramp using a miter saw.\", \"描述\": \"These pine boards will make up the ramp’s frame. They should always be as long as the ramp you plan on installing. You can easily cut these pieces to length using a miter saw or jigsaw. Hand saws are another easy method you can use, but cheaper blades tend to blunt quickly.\\nFor an average-sized ramp, use boards ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick. Cut them 50 in (130 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Use the side boards to measure and cut the ramp’s length.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a piece of plywood down on a flat surface, then adjust the pine boards to determine how wide you want the ramp to be. A reasonable width for many dogs is 12 inches (30 cm), although you can widen the ramp to compensate for larger dogs. Trace the side boards in pencil on the ramp, then cut it to size.\\nFor a bigger ramp, get a piece of plywood that is ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) thick. Trim it so it is 48 in (120 cm) long and 24 in (61 cm) wide.\\nIf you want to save money, look around your home to see if you can find loose bits of wood to repurpose. Also check out any lumber salvage yards to see what they have available.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create 2 side supports as long and as thick as the ramp.\", \"描述\": \"These supports will frame the ramp, connecting it to the side boards. These supports do not need to be very wide, only enough to keep the top half of the ramp even with the base beneath it. Use the ramp and side boards as a guideline for your measurements.\\nFor example, try making each support 48 ⁄2 in (123 cm) and about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide.\\nIf you aren’t sure how big the ramp’s base will be, leave the side supports a little wider or wait to cut them so you get the correct size.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Slice 2 more pine boards to create the ramp’s legs.\", \"描述\": \"The ramp needs 2 legs to support the higher end. The other end will rest against the boards used for the base. The legs should be about as tall as the ramp is.\\nAn average size for the legs is 21 in (53 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide. These will fit a ramp 24 in (61 cm) tall.\\nFor aesthetics, you can round the tops of the legs with a jigsaw. This will eliminate corners that may stick out from the ramp after you assemble it.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut out 4 boards needed to assemble the base.\", \"描述\": \"The base can be the most complicated part, depending on how you build it. A simplified base can be made using only 4 boards, which provide a frame for the ramp and legs to attach to. Cut these out of pine boards about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) thick.\\nFor an average ramp, cut 2 boards 23 ⁄2 in (60 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide. These will form the short ends of the base.\\nThe longer ends of the base should be of a similar length to the ramp. Try making them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) wide.\\nFor additional stability, get 2 runner boards to attach to the longer base boards. For example, you can make them 46 ⁄2 in (118 cm) long and 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wide.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Ramp’s Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill pilot holes in the ends of the boards for the base.\", \"描述\": \"Assemble the 4 base boards together to form basic shape of the base. To attach the boards together, you will need to create holes on each end of the longer boards. Plan on making each hole about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the end of the board. Position each hole ⅓ of the way from the board’s top or bottom edge.\\nMark the boards with a pencil first, then drill through the marks with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit.\\nYou will end up with a total of 4 holes on each of the long boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the base boards together with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws.\", \"描述\": \"Place a screw in each pre-drilled hole, then use an electric screwdriver to secure the boards. Before moving on, push against the base boards, looking for any wiggling. This can be a sign of loose boards and an unstable ramp, so tighten the screws!\\nIf the base seems unstable, you can cut some thin pieces of wood. Cut the runners almost as long as the side base boards, lay them flat inside the base, then screw them to the side boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the legs to the base with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Position the legs upright inside of the base, right against the corners where the base boards meet. The legs will hold up the taller side of the ramp. Drill a single hole about 5 in (13 cm) up the wide part of each leg and into the side base board. Add 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) long, ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide carriage bolts to complete the base.\\nFor additional stability, place a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washer onto the end of each bolt.\\nThe legs have to bear a lot of weight, so only use strong bolts. They hold up better than screws. Never use nails!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the plywood ramp between the side supports.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the ramp and the other components are as straight as you can get them before you screw them together. To start, place the 48 in (120 cm)-long supports to the left and right of the ramp. They should lay flat on your work surface and be level with the ramp.\\nCheck the ramp to make sure its edges are flush with the edges of the supporting structures. The side supports should be the same thickness as the ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fasten the side supports with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) construction screws.\", \"描述\": \"Measure about 2 in (5.1 cm) from the ends of the supports and mark these spots in pencil. These spots should be in the middle of boards, even with the plywood ramp. Then, drill through each spot with a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) drill bit. Finish by screwing the screws through the side of the supports and into the plywood ramp.\\nClamp the boards in place first to ensure they don’t slip out of alignment. Then, pre-drill the holes prevent cracking or splintering in the wood.\\nTo stabilize longer ramps, consider positioning additional screws along the supports. Use them to secure the ramp to the supports\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the side borders with 2 in (5.1 cm) construction screws.\", \"描述\": \"Set the side borders against the supports, then measure about every 12.5 in (32 cm) along their center. Mark each spot in pencil to indicate where you need to drill. Using a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) bit, drill into each spot, then place the screws to secure the wood together.\\nDepending on the length of your ramp, you may need to adjust the positioning of the screws. Try to keep them at an even distance from one another and the ends of the ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Secure the legs to the ramp with ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) carriage bolts.\", \"描述\": \"Position the ramp on top of the base, aligning the sides with the tops of the legs. Measure about 3 in (7.6 cm) down from the top of each leg and drill a hole through it using a ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit. Screw the bolts into position, then slide ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) washers or locking nuts on the ends of each of them for additional stability.\\nYou will need to use an adjustable wrench to tighten the washers or locking nuts on the bolts.\\nMake sure the legs are straight vertically and that the ramp is at the slope you need it to be. If the ramp looks crooked, undo the bolts and reposition the components as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Sand the ramp with 180-grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges.\", \"描述\": \"You have successfully constructed your ramp, so take some quick precautions to prevent your dog from getting splinters when they use it. The cut edges in particular may look a little sharp or jagged. Using sandpaper or a sanding block, lightly rub down these areas.\\nAs long as you press down lightly on the wood, the sandpaper shouldn’t cause any scratches.\\nYou can test the wood’s smoothness by touching it with your finger. If you notice any rough parts, keep sanding them until they feel smooth.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate the ramp with carpeting to make it softer.\", \"描述\": \"Find a scrap piece of carpeting, then use a utility knife or carpet cutter to cut a portion the same size as your ramp. Lay the carpeting over the ramp. To secure the carpeting, staple the top and bottom ends directly to the ramp with a staple gun.\\nYou can purchase new carpeting or repurpose old scraps. Try looking at a local thrift shops or carpeting outlets for fabrics on clearance.\\nCarpeting is soft on paws and adds aesthetic to your ramp. This is a great opportunity to get creative. Choose colors or patterns that match your room!\\nFor outdoor ramps, make sure you get something water-resistant.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Ask to have the boards cut when you buy them. Many home improvement stores provide this service as long as you indicate what measurements you need.\\n\", \"If you don’t have power tools, such as table saw, check your local home goods store to see if you can rent them.\\n\", \"Get creative with your ramp! There are many ways to customize it, including its length and the kind of fabric used for cover. You can also add features like a hinge for folding or a platform at the top.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Operating power tools and saws can be dangerous. Always wear proper safety gear, such as protective glasses and a dust mask.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,324
How to Build a Dog Run
1. Planning Your Dog Run 1-1. Find the area of your property to build the dog run. Most people prefer to build the dog run in their backyards as it provides an environment where a dog is less likely to be disturbed by traffic. The dog run should be constructed in an area you can easily see and monitor from inside your home. Area should be well-shaded to keep your pet cool in the summer months. Make sure there are no poisonous plants. If you have an outside water tap, consider placing your dog run around it or nearby so you can easily get water for your pet. 1-2. Consider the size of your pet. While a dog run doesn't have to be very big, you may need a less or more depending on the size of your pet. At a minimum, a dog run should be at least 4 feet by 8 feet. This will allow most dogs to move a little and get a little exercise. Ideally, longer cages give your dog a chance to run back and forth, hence the name "dog run." Dog runs can be long or square. Choose a shape based on what works best with your yard. If you have a doghouse you want to incorporate inside the dog run, you should figure the size of it in your planning as well. 1-3. Clear the area. Put stakes in the ground and run a line around the area for your dog run. Use a garden tiller or rake to remove the grass and loosen the dirt on ground. Excavate the pad to a depth of up to six inches. In most cases 3-4 inches is adequate, go for six if you plan to pour concrete. You may choose to leave grass in half of the run and excavate the other half and train your dog to use that area. Before digging be sure to check for any utility lines that might be in the way. If you aren't sure where the lines are located, contact your local providers and they can come out and mark them off for you. 1-4. Dig holes for the fence posts. Use a post-hole digger to dig a hole one to two feet deep. It should be twice as wide as the post that you will be using for your fence. Start at the corners and make post at even distances along the sides. Leave several inches of space between the hole that was dug out for the floor and the fence post holes. 2. Laying the Floor 2-1. Select the material for the flooring. Constructing the flooring is crucial to creating a good dog run. You can use inexpensive materials like mulch or gravel, however if your dog likes digging you might need a different idea. Concrete is often used, but care must be taken to create an adequate solution for draining. Flooring systems are interlocking panels or grids that are raised off the ground. They allow a nice surface for pets to walk on, but still provide adequate drainage. You can even cover the floor with artificial grass. 2-2. Fill the dug out area if doing a mulch or gravel dog run. Use a rake or shovel to evenly spread the material. Keep adding until it comes about 2 inches above the ground. Use boards or small plastic landscaping borders to keep the material in the desired area. While this is one of the more affordable flooring solutions for your dog run, eventually the material will need to be dug up and replaced. Even if you clean the area regularly, replacing the flooring will be the only way to avoid build up of odors and bacteria. 2-3. Pour a concrete base. To construct a concrete base, first spray the dug out area with water. This will prevent your concrete from drying out too much while pouring. Build a "form" around the desired shape of the concrete pad using 2" by 6" boards. Mix the concrete in a large wheelbarrow according to the directions. Then, prepare a bed of three inches of medium gravel. Finally, pour three inches of concrete into the form. Use a board to smooth over the surface so the concrete Wait at least 48 hours for the concrete to become completely solid. In cold climates, add reinforcing fiberglass mesh to prevent the concrete from cracking. Finish the surface so it is medium smooth. Excessively rough surface can irritate your pet's paws. Make sure the concrete drains properly, ideally not into the doorway. If you feel like pouring the concrete might be too much for you, it might be best to hire a professional. 3. Fencing the Run 3-1. Select the material for your fence. While chain link is probably the most popular choice for fencing a dog run, it doesn't look great and that can impact the value of your property. You can also consider using wooden posts and cattle fencing to create a more attractive area for your pet. Chain link fences can be ordered or painted in many different colors. Consider a black or green fence if you want it to be less noticeable in your yard. 3-2. Determine the height for your fence. The height should be three to eight feet, depending upon the breed, size, and temperament of the dog. If your dog is a digger, you may even want your fence to begin below ground. Find out if your town or homeowner's association has any laws or codes regarding the height of fences for private residences. Make sure any of your plans meet their guidelines. 3-3. Insert support posts into holes and pour concrete around them. Have someone hold the post so that it is centered in the hole. Use a level to check that the post is straight and adjust it if necessary before it dries. Allow a day or two for the concrete to dry before proceeding If you don't have someone to hold the post, use cable or rope to tie the post to two stakes in the ground to keep it steady. 3-4. Attach the fencing to the posts. If you have manufacturer instructions for attaching your particular fencing refer to that first. To attach chain link fencing begin at one corner and attach the top and bottom of the fencing to the post. Use pliers to bend the metal fence ties then attach them to the fence post and a link in the fence. Stretch the fencing to the next post. It is important to get the fence as tight as possible to is will not bend or become loose in the middle. Attach the fence and continue until fence is complete. To attach cattle fencing start by making a rectangular wooden frame for each side of the fencing. Place the fencing between the wooden frames, then nail the frames together. Attach the whole piece to a support post at either end. 3-5. Attach the door or gate. You can purchase a regular gate for a chain link fence, or get a smaller gate that is just big enough for your dog to go in and out. Pay close attention to the latch system you select. Be sure your dog isn't going to figure out how to open the gate. 4. Adding Amenities 4-1. Use a tarp to provide shade. While you can build a roof over your dog run, it adds a lot of work and cost to your project. Use a tarp instead to give your dog some shade. You always have the added option of removing them to let your dog soak up some sun. Get one or two tarps that are big enough to go across the run. Fasten the tarps to the top of the fences using cable ties. 4-2. Get an automatic water bowl. You can purchase water bowls that hook up to your hose and will instantly refill when the water level gets low. It is important to provide ample water to pets at all times, so this is a great way to be sure they will never get thirsty. You can even get bowls with built in heating so your pet won't have frozen water during the winter months. 4-3. Add additional security where needed to keep your pet safe from predators. In mountain lion and bear country, the dog run should have a secure top. In areas where venomous snakes may be present, a bottom course of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wire cloth may be added.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Dog Run\\n1-1. Find the area of your property to build the dog run.\\nMost people prefer to build the dog run in their backyards as it provides an environment where a dog is less likely to be disturbed by traffic. The dog run should be constructed in an area you can easily see and monitor from inside your home.\\nArea should be well-shaded to keep your pet cool in the summer months.\\nMake sure there are no poisonous plants.\\nIf you have an outside water tap, consider placing your dog run around it or nearby so you can easily get water for your pet.\\n1-2. Consider the size of your pet.\\nWhile a dog run doesn't have to be very big, you may need a less or more depending on the size of your pet. At a minimum, a dog run should be at least 4 feet by 8 feet. This will allow most dogs to move a little and get a little exercise. Ideally, longer cages give your dog a chance to run back and forth, hence the name \\\"dog run.\\\"\\nDog runs can be long or square. Choose a shape based on what works best with your yard.\\nIf you have a doghouse you want to incorporate inside the dog run, you should figure the size of it in your planning as well.\\n1-3. Clear the area.\\nPut stakes in the ground and run a line around the area for your dog run. Use a garden tiller or rake to remove the grass and loosen the dirt on ground. Excavate the pad to a depth of up to six inches. In most cases 3-4 inches is adequate, go for six if you plan to pour concrete. You may choose to leave grass in half of the run and excavate the other half and train your dog to use that area.\\nBefore digging be sure to check for any utility lines that might be in the way. If you aren't sure where the lines are located, contact your local providers and they can come out and mark them off for you.\\n1-4. Dig holes for the fence posts.\\nUse a post-hole digger to dig a hole one to two feet deep. It should be twice as wide as the post that you will be using for your fence. Start at the corners and make post at even distances along the sides. Leave several inches of space between the hole that was dug out for the floor and the fence post holes.\\n2. Laying the Floor\\n2-1. Select the material for the flooring.\\nConstructing the flooring is crucial to creating a good dog run. You can use inexpensive materials like mulch or gravel, however if your dog likes digging you might need a different idea. Concrete is often used, but care must be taken to create an adequate solution for draining. Flooring systems are interlocking panels or grids that are raised off the ground. They allow a nice surface for pets to walk on, but still provide adequate drainage. You can even cover the floor with artificial grass.\\n2-2. Fill the dug out area if doing a mulch or gravel dog run.\\nUse a rake or shovel to evenly spread the material. Keep adding until it comes about 2 inches above the ground. Use boards or small plastic landscaping borders to keep the material in the desired area.\\nWhile this is one of the more affordable flooring solutions for your dog run, eventually the material will need to be dug up and replaced. Even if you clean the area regularly, replacing the flooring will be the only way to avoid build up of odors and bacteria.\\n2-3. Pour a concrete base.\\nTo construct a concrete base, first spray the dug out area with water. This will prevent your concrete from drying out too much while pouring. Build a \\\"form\\\" around the desired shape of the concrete pad using 2\\\" by 6\\\" boards. Mix the concrete in a large wheelbarrow according to the directions. Then, prepare a bed of three inches of medium gravel. Finally, pour three inches of concrete into the form. Use a board to smooth over the surface so the concrete Wait at least 48 hours for the concrete to become completely solid.\\nIn cold climates, add reinforcing fiberglass mesh to prevent the concrete from cracking.\\nFinish the surface so it is medium smooth. Excessively rough surface can irritate your pet's paws.\\nMake sure the concrete drains properly, ideally not into the doorway.\\nIf you feel like pouring the concrete might be too much for you, it might be best to hire a professional.\\n3. Fencing the Run\\n3-1. Select the material for your fence.\\nWhile chain link is probably the most popular choice for fencing a dog run, it doesn't look great and that can impact the value of your property. You can also consider using wooden posts and cattle fencing to create a more attractive area for your pet.\\nChain link fences can be ordered or painted in many different colors. Consider a black or green fence if you want it to be less noticeable in your yard.\\n3-2. Determine the height for your fence.\\nThe height should be three to eight feet, depending upon the breed, size, and temperament of the dog. If your dog is a digger, you may even want your fence to begin below ground.\\nFind out if your town or homeowner's association has any laws or codes regarding the height of fences for private residences. Make sure any of your plans meet their guidelines.\\n3-3. Insert support posts into holes and pour concrete around them.\\nHave someone hold the post so that it is centered in the hole. Use a level to check that the post is straight and adjust it if necessary before it dries. Allow a day or two for the concrete to dry before proceeding\\nIf you don't have someone to hold the post, use cable or rope to tie the post to two stakes in the ground to keep it steady.\\n3-4. Attach the fencing to the posts.\\nIf you have manufacturer instructions for attaching your particular fencing refer to that first.\\nTo attach chain link fencing begin at one corner and attach the top and bottom of the fencing to the post. Use pliers to bend the metal fence ties then attach them to the fence post and a link in the fence. Stretch the fencing to the next post. It is important to get the fence as tight as possible to is will not bend or become loose in the middle. Attach the fence and continue until fence is complete.\\nTo attach cattle fencing start by making a rectangular wooden frame for each side of the fencing. Place the fencing between the wooden frames, then nail the frames together. Attach the whole piece to a support post at either end.\\n3-5. Attach the door or gate.\\nYou can purchase a regular gate for a chain link fence, or get a smaller gate that is just big enough for your dog to go in and out.\\nPay close attention to the latch system you select. Be sure your dog isn't going to figure out how to open the gate.\\n4. Adding Amenities\\n4-1. Use a tarp to provide shade.\\nWhile you can build a roof over your dog run, it adds a lot of work and cost to your project. Use a tarp instead to give your dog some shade. You always have the added option of removing them to let your dog soak up some sun. Get one or two tarps that are big enough to go across the run. Fasten the tarps to the top of the fences using cable ties.\\n4-2. Get an automatic water bowl.\\nYou can purchase water bowls that hook up to your hose and will instantly refill when the water level gets low. It is important to provide ample water to pets at all times, so this is a great way to be sure they will never get thirsty. You can even get bowls with built in heating so your pet won't have frozen water during the winter months.\\n4-3. Add additional security where needed to keep your pet safe from predators.\\nIn mountain lion and bear country, the dog run should have a secure top. In areas where venomous snakes may be present, a bottom course of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wire cloth may be added.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A dog run is long, narrow fenced in area for dogs. It is a great way to let your dog spend time outside and get their exercise while keeping them out of, and away from, trouble. Building a dog run can be a fun family project and your pet will love you for your efforts. If you have a yard and a pet, a well-constructed dog run can be a great addition to your property.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Dog Run\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find the area of your property to build the dog run.\", \"描述\": \"Most people prefer to build the dog run in their backyards as it provides an environment where a dog is less likely to be disturbed by traffic. The dog run should be constructed in an area you can easily see and monitor from inside your home.\\nArea should be well-shaded to keep your pet cool in the summer months.\\nMake sure there are no poisonous plants.\\nIf you have an outside water tap, consider placing your dog run around it or nearby so you can easily get water for your pet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider the size of your pet.\", \"描述\": \"While a dog run doesn't have to be very big, you may need a less or more depending on the size of your pet. At a minimum, a dog run should be at least 4 feet by 8 feet. This will allow most dogs to move a little and get a little exercise. Ideally, longer cages give your dog a chance to run back and forth, hence the name \\\"dog run.\\\"\\nDog runs can be long or square. Choose a shape based on what works best with your yard.\\nIf you have a doghouse you want to incorporate inside the dog run, you should figure the size of it in your planning as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Clear the area.\", \"描述\": \"Put stakes in the ground and run a line around the area for your dog run. Use a garden tiller or rake to remove the grass and loosen the dirt on ground. Excavate the pad to a depth of up to six inches. In most cases 3-4 inches is adequate, go for six if you plan to pour concrete. You may choose to leave grass in half of the run and excavate the other half and train your dog to use that area.\\nBefore digging be sure to check for any utility lines that might be in the way. If you aren't sure where the lines are located, contact your local providers and they can come out and mark them off for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig holes for the fence posts.\", \"描述\": \"Use a post-hole digger to dig a hole one to two feet deep. It should be twice as wide as the post that you will be using for your fence. Start at the corners and make post at even distances along the sides. Leave several inches of space between the hole that was dug out for the floor and the fence post holes.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Laying the Floor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the material for the flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Constructing the flooring is crucial to creating a good dog run. You can use inexpensive materials like mulch or gravel, however if your dog likes digging you might need a different idea. Concrete is often used, but care must be taken to create an adequate solution for draining. Flooring systems are interlocking panels or grids that are raised off the ground. They allow a nice surface for pets to walk on, but still provide adequate drainage. You can even cover the floor with artificial grass.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the dug out area if doing a mulch or gravel dog run.\", \"描述\": \"Use a rake or shovel to evenly spread the material. Keep adding until it comes about 2 inches above the ground. Use boards or small plastic landscaping borders to keep the material in the desired area.\\nWhile this is one of the more affordable flooring solutions for your dog run, eventually the material will need to be dug up and replaced. Even if you clean the area regularly, replacing the flooring will be the only way to avoid build up of odors and bacteria.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour a concrete base.\", \"描述\": \"To construct a concrete base, first spray the dug out area with water. This will prevent your concrete from drying out too much while pouring. Build a \\\"form\\\" around the desired shape of the concrete pad using 2\\\" by 6\\\" boards. Mix the concrete in a large wheelbarrow according to the directions. Then, prepare a bed of three inches of medium gravel. Finally, pour three inches of concrete into the form. Use a board to smooth over the surface so the concrete Wait at least 48 hours for the concrete to become completely solid.\\nIn cold climates, add reinforcing fiberglass mesh to prevent the concrete from cracking.\\nFinish the surface so it is medium smooth. Excessively rough surface can irritate your pet's paws.\\nMake sure the concrete drains properly, ideally not into the doorway.\\nIf you feel like pouring the concrete might be too much for you, it might be best to hire a professional.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fencing the Run\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select the material for your fence.\", \"描述\": \"While chain link is probably the most popular choice for fencing a dog run, it doesn't look great and that can impact the value of your property. You can also consider using wooden posts and cattle fencing to create a more attractive area for your pet.\\nChain link fences can be ordered or painted in many different colors. Consider a black or green fence if you want it to be less noticeable in your yard.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine the height for your fence.\", \"描述\": \"The height should be three to eight feet, depending upon the breed, size, and temperament of the dog. If your dog is a digger, you may even want your fence to begin below ground.\\nFind out if your town or homeowner's association has any laws or codes regarding the height of fences for private residences. Make sure any of your plans meet their guidelines.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Insert support posts into holes and pour concrete around them.\", \"描述\": \"Have someone hold the post so that it is centered in the hole. Use a level to check that the post is straight and adjust it if necessary before it dries. Allow a day or two for the concrete to dry before proceeding\\nIf you don't have someone to hold the post, use cable or rope to tie the post to two stakes in the ground to keep it steady.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the fencing to the posts.\", \"描述\": \"If you have manufacturer instructions for attaching your particular fencing refer to that first.\\nTo attach chain link fencing begin at one corner and attach the top and bottom of the fencing to the post. Use pliers to bend the metal fence ties then attach them to the fence post and a link in the fence. Stretch the fencing to the next post. It is important to get the fence as tight as possible to is will not bend or become loose in the middle. Attach the fence and continue until fence is complete.\\nTo attach cattle fencing start by making a rectangular wooden frame for each side of the fencing. Place the fencing between the wooden frames, then nail the frames together. Attach the whole piece to a support post at either end.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the door or gate.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase a regular gate for a chain link fence, or get a smaller gate that is just big enough for your dog to go in and out.\\nPay close attention to the latch system you select. Be sure your dog isn't going to figure out how to open the gate.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adding Amenities\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a tarp to provide shade.\", \"描述\": \"While you can build a roof over your dog run, it adds a lot of work and cost to your project. Use a tarp instead to give your dog some shade. You always have the added option of removing them to let your dog soak up some sun. Get one or two tarps that are big enough to go across the run. Fasten the tarps to the top of the fences using cable ties.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get an automatic water bowl.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase water bowls that hook up to your hose and will instantly refill when the water level gets low. It is important to provide ample water to pets at all times, so this is a great way to be sure they will never get thirsty. You can even get bowls with built in heating so your pet won't have frozen water during the winter months.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add additional security where needed to keep your pet safe from predators.\", \"描述\": \"In mountain lion and bear country, the dog run should have a secure top. In areas where venomous snakes may be present, a bottom course of ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) wire cloth may be added.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,325
How to Build a Door in Minecraft
1. Crafting a Wooden Door 1-1. Make a wooden door by using 6 wooden planks. Create wooden planks by placing wood in your crafting menu and crafting the planks. If you do not have a crafting bench, use 4 planks, placed in a square, to create a crafting bench. 1-2. Place 6 wooden planks, 3 high and 2 wide, in your crafting menu. This will create one wooden door. Note that you can change the appearance of the wooden door based on which wood you use. You could therefore have an oak door, spruce door, birch door, or a jungle wood door. Also note that any door types other than oak and iron only exist from 1.8 and onwards. 2. Crafting an Iron Door 2-1. Make an iron door by using 6 iron ingots. To get iron ingots, you have two options: Crafting: craft iron ingot from a single block of iron. Smelting: smelt iron ingot from a block of iron ore. 2-2. Arrange the iron ingots in the same shape as the wooden planks, filling two vertical columns. You now have an iron door. 3. Placing the Door and Other Specs 3-1. Place the door on the side of the block you want it to be on. If you're standing on the outside of a block, a placed door will end up on — you guessed it — the outside of the wall. If you're standing on the inside of the block, a placed door will end up on the inside of the wall. 3-2. Place two doors side by side to create double doors. Two adjacent doors will automatically orientate to become double doors. 3-3. Use pressure plates to open doors automatically. A pressure plate placed on either side of the door will automatically open and close the door as you pass through it. If you're worried about mobs, however, only place the pressure plate on the inside of the door to keep mobs out. Wooden doors can also open and shut easily by right-clicking the door. 3-4. Know that iron doors will not open by right-clicking. It is impossible to open an iron door without a mechanism nearby. Use this knowledge to keep mobs and other griefers out of your private space. Make a redstone pattern to your door and use a lever to open it. Place a pressure plate on the inside hinge of your iron door to open. Before the village and pillage update of Minecraft, villagers would breed independently based on the number of doors in the village. The villagers would breed if the population happened to be 35% or less than the number of valid doors. Villager breeding also depended on the willingness of the villagers. A player could manipulate it by giving specific amounts of food to the villagers. Tips Iron doors can be made the same way by using Iron Ingots. While Iron Doors can not be broken by zombies on any difficulty, they can not be opened with your hand. They require a Redstone current to open. Wooden doors can also be opened with a Redstone current, though it is not necessary. This means you can use buttons, levers, or pressure plates to open them. Villagers can open wooden doors, so it's advised to use iron doors if you don't want visitors. Warnings Zombies can break wooden doors in hard difficulty. If you hear a knocking sound, make sure you go and kill the Zombie. If you use a pressure plate with a door, make sure the pressure plate is on the inside of your house, as mobs can trigger the pressure plate and open the door if it's on the outside. Buttons work better if you don't want mobs purging in.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Crafting a Wooden Door\\n1-1. Make a wooden door by using 6 wooden planks.\\nCreate wooden planks by placing wood in your crafting menu and crafting the planks.\\nIf you do not have a crafting bench, use 4 planks, placed in a square, to create a crafting bench.\\n1-2. Place 6 wooden planks, 3 high and 2 wide, in your crafting menu.\\nThis will create one wooden door. Note that you can change the appearance of the wooden door based on which wood you use. You could therefore have an oak door, spruce door, birch door, or a jungle wood door.\\nAlso note that any door types other than oak and iron only exist from 1.8 and onwards.\\n2. Crafting an Iron Door\\n2-1. Make an iron door by using 6 iron ingots.\\nTo get iron ingots, you have two options:\\nCrafting: craft iron ingot from a single block of iron.\\nSmelting: smelt iron ingot from a block of iron ore.\\n2-2. Arrange the iron ingots in the same shape as the wooden planks, filling two vertical columns.\\nYou now have an iron door.\\n3. Placing the Door and Other Specs\\n3-1. Place the door on the side of the block you want it to be on.\\nIf you're standing on the outside of a block, a placed door will end up on — you guessed it — the outside of the wall. If you're standing on the inside of the block, a placed door will end up on the inside of the wall.\\n3-2. Place two doors side by side to create double doors.\\nTwo adjacent doors will automatically orientate to become double doors.\\n3-3. Use pressure plates to open doors automatically.\\nA pressure plate placed on either side of the door will automatically open and close the door as you pass through it. If you're worried about mobs, however, only place the pressure plate on the inside of the door to keep mobs out.\\nWooden doors can also open and shut easily by right-clicking the door.\\n3-4. Know that iron doors will not open by right-clicking.\\nIt is impossible to open an iron door without a mechanism nearby. Use this knowledge to keep mobs and other griefers out of your private space.\\nMake a redstone pattern to your door and use a lever to open it.\\nPlace a pressure plate on the inside hinge of your iron door to open.\\nBefore the village and pillage update of Minecraft, villagers would breed independently based on the number of doors in the village.\\nThe villagers would breed if the population happened to be 35% or less than the number of valid doors.\\nVillager breeding also depended on the willingness of the villagers. A player could manipulate it by giving specific amounts of food to the villagers.\\nTips\\nIron doors can be made the same way by using Iron Ingots. While Iron Doors can not be broken by zombies on any difficulty, they can not be opened with your hand. They require a Redstone current to open.\\nWooden doors can also be opened with a Redstone current, though it is not necessary. This means you can use buttons, levers, or pressure plates to open them.\\nVillagers can open wooden doors, so it's advised to use iron doors if you don't want visitors.\\nWarnings\\nZombies can break wooden doors in hard difficulty. If you hear a knocking sound, make sure you go and kill the Zombie.\\nIf you use a pressure plate with a door, make sure the pressure plate is on the inside of your house, as mobs can trigger the pressure plate and open the door if it's on the outside.\\nButtons work better if you don't want mobs purging in.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Doors are a basic essential to all buildings in Minecraft. Every house should have a door, including your first one. Without one, hostile mobs would be purging in to kill, even if you already have a strong weapon. Later in the game, you may start moving towards fancier piston-powered doors, but in the early and middle of the game, it's best to just stay with the basic door.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Crafting a Wooden Door\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a wooden door by using 6 wooden planks.\", \"描述\": \"Create wooden planks by placing wood in your crafting menu and crafting the planks.\\nIf you do not have a crafting bench, use 4 planks, placed in a square, to create a crafting bench.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place 6 wooden planks, 3 high and 2 wide, in your crafting menu.\", \"描述\": \"This will create one wooden door. Note that you can change the appearance of the wooden door based on which wood you use. You could therefore have an oak door, spruce door, birch door, or a jungle wood door.\\nAlso note that any door types other than oak and iron only exist from 1.8 and onwards.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Crafting an Iron Door\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make an iron door by using 6 iron ingots.\", \"描述\": \"To get iron ingots, you have two options:\\nCrafting: craft iron ingot from a single block of iron.\\nSmelting: smelt iron ingot from a block of iron ore.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Arrange the iron ingots in the same shape as the wooden planks, filling two vertical columns.\", \"描述\": \"You now have an iron door.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Placing the Door and Other Specs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the door on the side of the block you want it to be on.\", \"描述\": \"If you're standing on the outside of a block, a placed door will end up on — you guessed it — the outside of the wall. If you're standing on the inside of the block, a placed door will end up on the inside of the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place two doors side by side to create double doors.\", \"描述\": \"Two adjacent doors will automatically orientate to become double doors.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use pressure plates to open doors automatically.\", \"描述\": \"A pressure plate placed on either side of the door will automatically open and close the door as you pass through it. If you're worried about mobs, however, only place the pressure plate on the inside of the door to keep mobs out.\\nWooden doors can also open and shut easily by right-clicking the door.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Know that iron doors will not open by right-clicking.\", \"描述\": \"It is impossible to open an iron door without a mechanism nearby. Use this knowledge to keep mobs and other griefers out of your private space.\\nMake a redstone pattern to your door and use a lever to open it.\\nPlace a pressure plate on the inside hinge of your iron door to open.\\nBefore the village and pillage update of Minecraft, villagers would breed independently based on the number of doors in the village.\\nThe villagers would breed if the population happened to be 35% or less than the number of valid doors.\\nVillager breeding also depended on the willingness of the villagers. A player could manipulate it by giving specific amounts of food to the villagers.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Iron doors can be made the same way by using Iron Ingots. While Iron Doors can not be broken by zombies on any difficulty, they can not be opened with your hand. They require a Redstone current to open.\\n\", \"Wooden doors can also be opened with a Redstone current, though it is not necessary. This means you can use buttons, levers, or pressure plates to open them.\\n\", \"Villagers can open wooden doors, so it's advised to use iron doors if you don't want visitors.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Zombies can break wooden doors in hard difficulty. If you hear a knocking sound, make sure you go and kill the Zombie.\\n\", \"If you use a pressure plate with a door, make sure the pressure plate is on the inside of your house, as mobs can trigger the pressure plate and open the door if it's on the outside.\\n\", \"Buttons work better if you don't want mobs purging in.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,326
How to Build a Door on Roblox
1. Steps 1-1. Open up Roblox Studio. 1-2. Create a frame for the door out of normal parts. Make sure it's not too big or not too small and anchor the parts. It's a good idea to have a model of a character so you can judge the size on that. Try not to make the frame too thin but also not too thick. 1-3. Make the hinges that hold to door together and make it open. Place a small brick preferable with the same thickness of the frame at the bottom of the frame, making sure that there is space between one side of the frame and the brick you just put down. Do the same thing symmetrically at the top of the frame - this bit is really important! 1-4. With the hinge(es) selected, go to the surface tool and select hinge. This turns the two parts into a hinge! A small axel should appear on the top of the two parts. 1-5. Create the actual door. Make a brick that fits in the frame touching the hinges but not any of the frame walls. 1-6. Anchor all the parts apart from the door and you are done! You can test your game using the play function. Tips You can scale all of the parts to make a more sleek or cooler looking door!
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:33", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Open up Roblox Studio.\\n\\n1-2. Create a frame for the door out of normal parts.\\nMake sure it's not too big or not too small and anchor the parts. It's a good idea to have a model of a character so you can judge the size on that. Try not to make the frame too thin but also not too thick.\\n1-3. Make the hinges that hold to door together and make it open.\\nPlace a small brick preferable with the same thickness of the frame at the bottom of the frame, making sure that there is space between one side of the frame and the brick you just put down. Do the same thing symmetrically at the top of the frame - this bit is really important!\\n1-4. With the hinge(es) selected, go to the surface tool and select hinge.\\nThis turns the two parts into a hinge! A small axel should appear on the top of the two parts.\\n1-5. Create the actual door.\\nMake a brick that fits in the frame touching the hinges but not any of the frame walls.\\n1-6. Anchor all the parts apart from the door and you are done!\\nYou can test your game using the play function.\\nTips\\nYou can scale all of the parts to make a more sleek or cooler looking door!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a house on Roblox and don't want noobs wandering into your mansion? Start with step one to build a door on Roblox.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Open up Roblox Studio.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a frame for the door out of normal parts.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it's not too big or not too small and anchor the parts. It's a good idea to have a model of a character so you can judge the size on that. Try not to make the frame too thin but also not too thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make the hinges that hold to door together and make it open.\", \"描述\": \"Place a small brick preferable with the same thickness of the frame at the bottom of the frame, making sure that there is space between one side of the frame and the brick you just put down. Do the same thing symmetrically at the top of the frame - this bit is really important!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"With the hinge(es) selected, go to the surface tool and select hinge.\", \"描述\": \"This turns the two parts into a hinge! A small axel should appear on the top of the two parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create the actual door.\", \"描述\": \"Make a brick that fits in the frame touching the hinges but not any of the frame walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Anchor all the parts apart from the door and you are done!\", \"描述\": \"You can test your game using the play function.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can scale all of the parts to make a more sleek or cooler looking door!\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,327
How to Build a Dragon Deck in Yu Gi Oh!
1. Steps 1-1. Find a bunch of dragon cards. If you have enough cards of one theme, like Blue-Eyes or Hieratic, you can opt for building a deck based around that archetype instead. 1-2. Add Dragon support cards. Good ones are Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon, Dragon Shrine, Divine Dragon Apocralyph, Silver's Cry, Keeper of the Shrine, Queen Dragun Djinn, Dragon Ravine, Masked Dragon, and Dragon's Mirror. 1-3. Think of what other cards you can use. For example, if you have a lot of Level 8 monsters, you can use Trade-In. If you have a bunch of LIGHT types, you can run Honest. A lot of dragon support works for normal types, so you may actually benefit from having a few normal monsters in your deck. 1-4. Add staples. Staples are cards that fit in the majority of decks. Get cards like Twin Twisters/MST, Raigeki, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, Call of the Haunted, Dark Hole, and Bottomless Trap Hole. 1-5. Build an Extra Deck. Add generic Xyz monsters you can summon. Many Dragon-Types are level 8 and Rank 8 Xyz monsters are very good, so consider building your deck around them. Ranks 7 and 4 are also good. Several Xyz monsters that support dragons are Queen Dragun Djinn, Hieratic Dragon King of Atum, Galaxy-Eyes Dark Matter Dragon, and Dragluon. If you have Tuners, throw in some synchros you can make. There are also good dragon fusions, like Five-Headed Dragon. If you want to use fusions, the best fusion spell card available to you is Dragon's Mirror. 1-6. You can also buy your own dragon structure deck. There are many of them such as 'Saga of the Blue Eyes White Dragon' or 'Dragons Collide'. Your structure deck will be better if you buy three copies of the same one and add all the good cards. Tips Another powerful deck type to use is Chaos Dragons. Blue-Eyes is currently a very powerful deck which can put multiple giant dragons on the field every turn. Red-Eyes are also worth looking into. They focus more on burn damage and Xyz summoning. Hieratics are extremely powerful with a lot of OTK potential. Look them up! Warnings Don't use more than 40 cards in your deck.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Find a bunch of dragon cards.\\nIf you have enough cards of one theme, like Blue-Eyes or Hieratic, you can opt for building a deck based around that archetype instead.\\n1-2. Add Dragon support cards.\\nGood ones are Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon, Dragon Shrine, Divine Dragon Apocralyph, Silver's Cry, Keeper of the Shrine, Queen Dragun Djinn, Dragon Ravine, Masked Dragon, and Dragon's Mirror.\\n1-3. Think of what other cards you can use.\\nFor example, if you have a lot of Level 8 monsters, you can use Trade-In. If you have a bunch of LIGHT types, you can run Honest. A lot of dragon support works for normal types, so you may actually benefit from having a few normal monsters in your deck.\\n1-4. Add staples.\\nStaples are cards that fit in the majority of decks. Get cards like Twin Twisters/MST, Raigeki, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, Call of the Haunted, Dark Hole, and Bottomless Trap Hole.\\n1-5. Build an Extra Deck.\\nAdd generic Xyz monsters you can summon. Many Dragon-Types are level 8 and Rank 8 Xyz monsters are very good, so consider building your deck around them. Ranks 7 and 4 are also good. Several Xyz monsters that support dragons are Queen Dragun Djinn, Hieratic Dragon King of Atum, Galaxy-Eyes Dark Matter Dragon, and Dragluon. If you have Tuners, throw in some synchros you can make. There are also good dragon fusions, like Five-Headed Dragon. If you want to use fusions, the best fusion spell card available to you is Dragon's Mirror.\\n1-6. You can also buy your own dragon structure deck.\\nThere are many of them such as 'Saga of the Blue Eyes White Dragon' or 'Dragons Collide'. Your structure deck will be better if you buy three copies of the same one and add all the good cards.\\nTips\\nAnother powerful deck type to use is Chaos Dragons.\\nBlue-Eyes is currently a very powerful deck which can put multiple giant dragons on the field every turn. Red-Eyes are also worth looking into. They focus more on burn damage and Xyz summoning.\\nHieratics are extremely powerful with a lot of OTK potential. Look them up!\\nWarnings\\nDon't use more than 40 cards in your deck.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you want to build a deck with some of the fiercest monsters in Yu Gi Oh? Then try this deck out!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a bunch of dragon cards.\", \"描述\": \"If you have enough cards of one theme, like Blue-Eyes or Hieratic, you can opt for building a deck based around that archetype instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add Dragon support cards.\", \"描述\": \"Good ones are Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon, Dragon Shrine, Divine Dragon Apocralyph, Silver's Cry, Keeper of the Shrine, Queen Dragun Djinn, Dragon Ravine, Masked Dragon, and Dragon's Mirror.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Think of what other cards you can use.\", \"描述\": \"For example, if you have a lot of Level 8 monsters, you can use Trade-In. If you have a bunch of LIGHT types, you can run Honest. A lot of dragon support works for normal types, so you may actually benefit from having a few normal monsters in your deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add staples.\", \"描述\": \"Staples are cards that fit in the majority of decks. Get cards like Twin Twisters/MST, Raigeki, Solemn Warning, Solemn Strike, Call of the Haunted, Dark Hole, and Bottomless Trap Hole.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build an Extra Deck.\", \"描述\": \"Add generic Xyz monsters you can summon. Many Dragon-Types are level 8 and Rank 8 Xyz monsters are very good, so consider building your deck around them. Ranks 7 and 4 are also good. Several Xyz monsters that support dragons are Queen Dragun Djinn, Hieratic Dragon King of Atum, Galaxy-Eyes Dark Matter Dragon, and Dragluon. If you have Tuners, throw in some synchros you can make. There are also good dragon fusions, like Five-Headed Dragon. If you want to use fusions, the best fusion spell card available to you is Dragon's Mirror.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"You can also buy your own dragon structure deck.\", \"描述\": \"There are many of them such as 'Saga of the Blue Eyes White Dragon' or 'Dragons Collide'. Your structure deck will be better if you buy three copies of the same one and add all the good cards.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Another powerful deck type to use is Chaos Dragons.\\n\", \"Blue-Eyes is currently a very powerful deck which can put multiple giant dragons on the field every turn. Red-Eyes are also worth looking into. They focus more on burn damage and Xyz summoning.\\n\", \"Hieratics are extremely powerful with a lot of OTK potential. Look them up!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't use more than 40 cards in your deck.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,328
How to Build a Drainage Ditch Bridge
1. Steps 1-1. Pick a spot over the ditch where you would like to cross over. Try to find a spot where the two sides are closely even, level, and "clean". Also make the sure spot is less than 6 feet (1.8 m) across. If more than 6 feet (1.8 m), this bridge may not be for you. 1-2. Figure out how wide you want your bridge. A 3 foot (0.9 m) bridge is good for a walking bridge, but a 4 foot (1.2 m) bridge is wide enough for most mowers. Measure 1 foot (0.3 m) behind the ditch and mark the spot in 4 corners, measuring that all 4 points meet up with each other. 1-3. Purchase CCA treated lumber. Cut your 4x6x12 in half to give you two 6 foot (1.8 m) pieces. Purchase approximately 8-10 treated 2x4's, and deck screws. Have your level handy, and your post hole digger or shovel ready as well. 1-4. Dig up the ground up to a foot (or more) where you marked the 4 corners. You will then lay your 4x6's in the holes across the ditch. Try to dig at least 8–12 inches (20.3–30.5 cm) in the ground so that the posts are deep enough to be covered up with dirt.  This part can be tricky, as the posts need to be level with each other, and the ground itself. They also need to be even. Measure across, sideways, and add dirt or dig more to get yourself to where you are exactly even, level, and secure. 1-5. Cut your 2x4's to length, 3 or 4 foot (0.9 or 1.2 m), make sure they are even. Then lay them across the posts one at a time. Separate them about a pinkies length apart to allow for rain to drain through it. Screw two deck screws on each side, and continue laying boards all the way across. Make sure you are even, level, and the boards are staying put. You may need to remove weeds, dig into the ground to place the first and last board if it cuts into the ground, doing away with large gaps from the ground to the bridge. 1-6. Cover up the posts  and pack it tight. Level the ground with your feet or shovel before and after the bridge on each side and get a good flat entrance and exit. 1-7. Test it out. Walk over it, paint it, seal it, do whatever you want to with it. This bridge will last many years and should be very strong. Tips You may add an additional post in the middle to strengthen the boards even more, especially if you want to drive over it. You can also add steel to it to take the bridge to the next level of strong. Warnings CCA treated wood contains arsenic, wear a gas mask while drilling or cutting and handle with gloves. You may choose to use copper azole treated wood instead because it is less toxic. CCA wood is greenish. The bridge will be very slick in the wintertime. It will freeze easily.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Pick a spot over the ditch where you would like to cross over.\\nTry to find a spot where the two sides are closely even, level, and \\\"clean\\\". Also make the sure spot is less than 6 feet (1.8 m) across. If more than 6 feet (1.8 m), this bridge may not be for you.\\n1-2. Figure out how wide you want your bridge.\\nA 3 foot (0.9 m) bridge is good for a walking bridge, but a 4 foot (1.2 m) bridge is wide enough for most mowers. Measure 1 foot (0.3 m) behind the ditch and mark the spot in 4 corners, measuring that all 4 points meet up with each other.\\n1-3. Purchase CCA treated lumber.\\nCut your 4x6x12 in half to give you two 6 foot (1.8 m) pieces. Purchase approximately 8-10 treated 2x4's, and deck screws. Have your level handy, and your post hole digger or shovel ready as well.\\n1-4. Dig up the ground up to a foot (or more) where you marked the 4 corners.\\nYou will then lay your 4x6's in the holes across the ditch. Try to dig at least 8–12 inches (20.3–30.5 cm) in the ground so that the posts are deep enough to be covered up with dirt.  This part can be tricky, as the posts need to be level with each other, and the ground itself. They also need to be even. Measure across, sideways, and add dirt or dig more to get yourself to where you are exactly even, level, and secure.\\n1-5. Cut your 2x4's to length, 3 or 4 foot (0.9 or 1.2 m), make sure they are even.\\nThen lay them across the posts one at a time. Separate them about a pinkies length apart to allow for rain to drain through it. Screw two deck screws on each side, and continue laying boards all the way across. Make sure you are even, level, and the boards are staying put. You may need to remove weeds, dig into the ground to place the first and last board if it cuts into the ground, doing away with large gaps from the ground to the bridge.\\n1-6. Cover up the posts  and pack it tight.\\nLevel the ground with your feet or shovel before and after the bridge on each side and get a good flat entrance and exit.\\n1-7. Test it out.\\nWalk over it, paint it, seal it, do whatever you want to with it. This bridge will last many years and should be very strong.\\nTips\\nYou may add an additional post in the middle to strengthen the boards even more, especially if you want to drive over it. You can also add steel to it to take the bridge to the next level of strong.\\nWarnings\\nCCA treated wood contains arsenic, wear a gas mask while drilling or cutting and handle with gloves. You may choose to use copper azole treated wood instead because it is less toxic. CCA wood is greenish.\\nThe bridge will be very slick in the wintertime. It will freeze easily.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Have a drainage ditch that runs through your yard? Tired of jumping over it and need access on that side of the yard? Building a simple ditch bridge can be easy to accomplish and will last many, many years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a spot over the ditch where you would like to cross over.\", \"描述\": \"Try to find a spot where the two sides are closely even, level, and \\\"clean\\\". Also make the sure spot is less than 6 feet (1.8 m) across. If more than 6 feet (1.8 m), this bridge may not be for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Figure out how wide you want your bridge.\", \"描述\": \"A 3 foot (0.9 m) bridge is good for a walking bridge, but a 4 foot (1.2 m) bridge is wide enough for most mowers. Measure 1 foot (0.3 m) behind the ditch and mark the spot in 4 corners, measuring that all 4 points meet up with each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase CCA treated lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your 4x6x12 in half to give you two 6 foot (1.8 m) pieces. Purchase approximately 8-10 treated 2x4's, and deck screws. Have your level handy, and your post hole digger or shovel ready as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig up the ground up to a foot (or more) where you marked the 4 corners.\", \"描述\": \"You will then lay your 4x6's in the holes across the ditch. Try to dig at least 8–12 inches (20.3–30.5 cm) in the ground so that the posts are deep enough to be covered up with dirt.  This part can be tricky, as the posts need to be level with each other, and the ground itself. They also need to be even. Measure across, sideways, and add dirt or dig more to get yourself to where you are exactly even, level, and secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut your 2x4's to length, 3 or 4 foot (0.9 or 1.2 m), make sure they are even.\", \"描述\": \"Then lay them across the posts one at a time. Separate them about a pinkies length apart to allow for rain to drain through it. Screw two deck screws on each side, and continue laying boards all the way across. Make sure you are even, level, and the boards are staying put. You may need to remove weeds, dig into the ground to place the first and last board if it cuts into the ground, doing away with large gaps from the ground to the bridge.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover up the posts  and pack it tight.\", \"描述\": \"Level the ground with your feet or shovel before and after the bridge on each side and get a good flat entrance and exit.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Test it out.\", \"描述\": \"Walk over it, paint it, seal it, do whatever you want to with it. This bridge will last many years and should be very strong.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You may add an additional post in the middle to strengthen the boards even more, especially if you want to drive over it. You can also add steel to it to take the bridge to the next level of strong.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"CCA treated wood contains arsenic, wear a gas mask while drilling or cutting and handle with gloves. You may choose to use copper azole treated wood instead because it is less toxic. CCA wood is greenish.\\n\", \"The bridge will be very slick in the wintertime. It will freeze easily.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,329
How to Build a Dry Stack Retaining Rock Wall
1. Steps 1-1. Plan your project. Decide how wide and long you'd like your rock wall to be, and make sure that this is feasible with the location of your wall. Dry stacked rock walls are typically built against a hillside, as it can be used as a tool to prevent soil erosion from ruining a garden 1-2. Select your stones from a stone supply yard. Give a representative your measurements, as that affects the quantity and size of stones you need. Dry stack walls can typically be made from three types of stones: round field stones, relatively flat stacking stones and uniformly cut dressed stones. Each type will give your wall a different look and feel, so make sure you look at pictures to determine which would be the best fit for your house and landscape. Note that flatter stones tend to be easier to work with than rounder ones, as they are more suited for stacking. 1-3. Lay out the wall area and direction. You may be cutting away a bank (shown below) or building the wall and back filling as you go, in order to create a terrace effect. Pull a string line the length of the wall (about 8 inches (20.5 cm) off the ground level) to define the front of the wall. Freestanding dry rock walls can be stable if they are up to three feet in height 1-4. Dig a ditch the length of the wall that is about a foot wide and 8 to 12 inches (20.5 cm - 30.5 cm) below the ground level. This ditch will act as the wall's footing and prevent the rocks from sliding forward due to pressure from the earth behind. Try to cut the ditch into native soil rather than loose added soil, as the former provides a more stable foundation for the wall. Level the foundation trench. Smooth over the ground beneath your wall with a shovel, and line it with crushed stone pieces called stone screenings, stone dust or fines. This material will also be useful for filling in gaps. 1-5. Stack the larger rocks in the ditch. Place the flat side facing forward, and slanted back about 8 degrees. The rock should just miss touching the string line, and be supported by dirt filled in behind it. Do this for the length of the wall, with each large rock touching the one next to it. 1-6. Fill dirt behind the large rocks and tap the earth firmly, while letting the 8 degree slant hold the rock in place by gravity. Avoid large vertical gaps in your wall. Try to rearrange the stones so that those don't appear. 1-7. Find complementary rocks to fill in the spaces in between the large rocks. These rocks may be smaller, but need to be a shape that fills the void between the large rocks. Lay the rock flat side out and support it with earth filled in behind it. These rocks also lay back by 8 degrees. 1-8. Continue placing the second layer of rocks, so that spaces between the first layer of large rocks are filled. Fill out the entire span of the trench. You can add water to the fill to make it settle. 1-9. Square off the top of the wall with smaller stones to give it a neat, straight and flat appearance. Tips The first row of rock should be larger than a bowling ball but small enough to move by yourself or with a helper. Use a crowbar to pack dirt in between the rocks. Mix stone sizes throughout the wall to create an even, fit-together look. Warnings Don't lift rocks that are too heavy or you may cause yourself back problems. Call before you dig if there is a service provided in your country that helps to identify underground utility lines. This will help save you from damage, injury, and fines. Walls should be no higher than three feet. Many cities, towns and municipalities require a professional engineer's sign and seal or some other form of certification for any retaining wall that exceeds three feet. Make sure to check with your local building department or local government sector responsible for building.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Plan your project.\\nDecide how wide and long you'd like your rock wall to be, and make sure that this is feasible with the location of your wall.\\nDry stacked rock walls are typically built against a hillside, as it can be used as a tool to prevent soil erosion from ruining a garden\\n1-2. Select your stones from a stone supply yard.\\nGive a representative your measurements, as that affects the quantity and size of stones you need. Dry stack walls can typically be made from three types of stones: round field stones, relatively flat stacking stones and uniformly cut dressed stones.\\nEach type will give your wall a different look and feel, so make sure you look at pictures to determine which would be the best fit for your house and landscape.\\nNote that flatter stones tend to be easier to work with than rounder ones, as they are more suited for stacking.\\n1-3. Lay out the wall area and direction.\\nYou may be cutting away a bank (shown below) or building the wall and back filling as you go, in order to create a terrace effect. Pull a string line the length of the wall (about 8 inches (20.5 cm) off the ground level) to define the front of the wall.\\nFreestanding dry rock walls can be stable if they are up to three feet in height\\n1-4. Dig a ditch the length of the wall that is about a foot wide and 8 to 12 inches (20.5 cm - 30.5 cm) below the ground level.\\nThis ditch will act as the wall's footing and prevent the rocks from sliding forward due to pressure from the earth behind.\\nTry to cut the ditch into native soil rather than loose added soil, as the former provides a more stable foundation for the wall.\\nLevel the foundation trench. Smooth over the ground beneath your wall with a shovel, and line it with crushed stone pieces called stone screenings, stone dust or fines. This material will also be useful for filling in gaps.\\n1-5. Stack the larger rocks in the ditch.\\nPlace the flat side facing forward, and slanted back about 8 degrees. The rock should just miss touching the string line, and be supported by dirt filled in behind it. Do this for the length of the wall, with each large rock touching the one next to it.\\n1-6. Fill dirt behind the large rocks and tap the earth firmly, while letting the 8 degree slant hold the rock in place by gravity.\\nAvoid large vertical gaps in your wall. Try to rearrange the stones so that those don't appear.\\n1-7. Find complementary rocks to fill in the spaces in between the large rocks.\\nThese rocks may be smaller, but need to be a shape that fills the void between the large rocks. Lay the rock flat side out and support it with earth filled in behind it. These rocks also lay back by 8 degrees.\\n1-8. Continue placing the second layer of rocks, so that spaces between the first layer of large rocks are filled.\\nFill out the entire span of the trench. You can add water to the fill to make it settle.\\n1-9. Square off the top of the wall with smaller stones to give it a neat, straight and flat appearance.\\n\\nTips\\nThe first row of rock should be larger than a bowling ball but small enough to move by yourself or with a helper.\\nUse a crowbar to pack dirt in between the rocks.\\nMix stone sizes throughout the wall to create an even, fit-together look.\\nWarnings\\nDon't lift rocks that are too heavy or you may cause yourself back problems.\\nCall before you dig if there is a service provided in your country that helps to identify underground utility lines. This will help save you from damage, injury, and fines.\\nWalls should be no higher than three feet.\\nMany cities, towns and municipalities require a professional engineer's sign and seal or some other form of certification for any retaining wall that exceeds three feet. Make sure to check with your local building department or local government sector responsible for building.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you looking to add another dimension to your property with your own two hands? Dry stack rock or rubble stone walls add a great touch to flowerbeds and landscape projects. Fortunately, building one is easy enough that you can do it yourself!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan your project.\", \"描述\": \"Decide how wide and long you'd like your rock wall to be, and make sure that this is feasible with the location of your wall.\\nDry stacked rock walls are typically built against a hillside, as it can be used as a tool to prevent soil erosion from ruining a garden\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select your stones from a stone supply yard.\", \"描述\": \"Give a representative your measurements, as that affects the quantity and size of stones you need. Dry stack walls can typically be made from three types of stones: round field stones, relatively flat stacking stones and uniformly cut dressed stones.\\nEach type will give your wall a different look and feel, so make sure you look at pictures to determine which would be the best fit for your house and landscape.\\nNote that flatter stones tend to be easier to work with than rounder ones, as they are more suited for stacking.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out the wall area and direction.\", \"描述\": \"You may be cutting away a bank (shown below) or building the wall and back filling as you go, in order to create a terrace effect. Pull a string line the length of the wall (about 8 inches (20.5 cm) off the ground level) to define the front of the wall.\\nFreestanding dry rock walls can be stable if they are up to three feet in height\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a ditch the length of the wall that is about a foot wide and 8 to 12 inches (20.5 cm - 30.5 cm) below the ground level.\", \"描述\": \"This ditch will act as the wall's footing and prevent the rocks from sliding forward due to pressure from the earth behind.\\nTry to cut the ditch into native soil rather than loose added soil, as the former provides a more stable foundation for the wall.\\nLevel the foundation trench. Smooth over the ground beneath your wall with a shovel, and line it with crushed stone pieces called stone screenings, stone dust or fines. This material will also be useful for filling in gaps.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stack the larger rocks in the ditch.\", \"描述\": \"Place the flat side facing forward, and slanted back about 8 degrees. The rock should just miss touching the string line, and be supported by dirt filled in behind it. Do this for the length of the wall, with each large rock touching the one next to it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill dirt behind the large rocks and tap the earth firmly, while letting the 8 degree slant hold the rock in place by gravity.\", \"描述\": \"Avoid large vertical gaps in your wall. Try to rearrange the stones so that those don't appear.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Find complementary rocks to fill in the spaces in between the large rocks.\", \"描述\": \"These rocks may be smaller, but need to be a shape that fills the void between the large rocks. Lay the rock flat side out and support it with earth filled in behind it. These rocks also lay back by 8 degrees.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Continue placing the second layer of rocks, so that spaces between the first layer of large rocks are filled.\", \"描述\": \"Fill out the entire span of the trench. You can add water to the fill to make it settle.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Square off the top of the wall with smaller stones to give it a neat, straight and flat appearance.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The first row of rock should be larger than a bowling ball but small enough to move by yourself or with a helper.\\n\", \"Use a crowbar to pack dirt in between the rocks.\\n\", \"Mix stone sizes throughout the wall to create an even, fit-together look.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't lift rocks that are too heavy or you may cause yourself back problems.\\n\", \"Call before you dig if there is a service provided in your country that helps to identify underground utility lines. This will help save you from damage, injury, and fines.\\n\", \"Walls should be no higher than three feet.\\n\", \"Many cities, towns and municipalities require a professional engineer's sign and seal or some other form of certification for any retaining wall that exceeds three feet. Make sure to check with your local building department or local government sector responsible for building.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,330
How to Build a Dry Wall Partition for Your House
1. Steps 1-1. Determine what kind of plasterboard you´ll need. White plasterboard is not water resistant but very cheap. Blue or green plasterboard is water resistant but costs 2-3 times more. 1-2. Draw a straight line on the floor or on the place where are you going to build your wall. 1-3. Cut wood for the frame and assemble it, using a screwdriver. You can use a permanent adhesive but it's not recommended, if you want to be able to remove the dry wall later. 1-4. [[Image:Quickly Build Small Partition Dry Wall ( Wood Framing ) Inside for Your House Step 4.jpg|center]Measure and cut the plasterboard. 1-5. Screw the plasterboard on the frame. 1-6. Add insulation to your wall, if you want. Just cut it to the right size and place it inside your frame. Make sure to get the right type of insulation, depending on what you need: heat or noise or both. 1-7. Plaster your wall or just cover it with some paper. Tips Always ensure that the crowns in the lumber face the same direction, otherwise you'll have a wavy wall. Lie the lumber on the floor on it's narrow side; you'll see the wood has a slight, visible bend, or "crown". Mark the high side of all the lumber with a pencil; when you assemble your wall, always keep the high sides all facing in one direction. It's far easier to build your wall on it's side, laying on the floor. This way you can ensure all the corners are square, and you can drill any holes for wiring, etc. When completed, just stand it up and attach the bottom plate to the floor joists and do the same at the ceiling with the top plate. You'll probably need help to lift the framing into place and hold it square while you fasten it to the floor & ceiling joists. Warnings Do not bend the plasterboard. If you bend plasterboard you´ll have difficulty to work with it. Do not use white plasterboard if there´s any chance that it gets wet. Plasterboard is sucking in moisture very well and will be destroyed if it's too wet.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine what kind of plasterboard you´ll need.\\nWhite plasterboard is not water resistant but very cheap.\\nBlue or green plasterboard is water resistant but costs 2-3 times more.\\n1-2. Draw a straight line on the floor or on the place where are you going to build your wall.\\n\\n1-3. Cut wood for the frame and assemble it, using a screwdriver.\\nYou can use a permanent adhesive but it's not recommended, if you want to be able to remove the dry wall later.\\n1-4. [[Image:Quickly Build Small Partition Dry Wall ( Wood Framing ) Inside for Your House Step 4.jpg|center]Measure and cut the plasterboard.\\n\\n1-5. Screw the plasterboard on the frame.\\n\\n1-6. Add insulation to your wall, if you want.\\nJust cut it to the right size and place it inside your frame. Make sure to get the right type of insulation, depending on what you need: heat or noise or both.\\n1-7. Plaster your wall or just cover it with some paper.\\n\\nTips\\nAlways ensure that the crowns in the lumber face the same direction, otherwise you'll have a wavy wall. Lie the lumber on the floor on it's narrow side; you'll see the wood has a slight, visible bend, or \\\"crown\\\". Mark the high side of all the lumber with a pencil; when you assemble your wall, always keep the high sides all facing in one direction.\\nIt's far easier to build your wall on it's side, laying on the floor. This way you can ensure all the corners are square, and you can drill any holes for wiring, etc. When completed, just stand it up and attach the bottom plate to the floor joists and do the same at the ceiling with the top plate. You'll probably need help to lift the framing into place and hold it square while you fasten it to the floor & ceiling joists.\\nWarnings\\nDo not bend the plasterboard. If you bend plasterboard you´ll have difficulty to work with it.\\nDo not use white plasterboard if there´s any chance that it gets wet. Plasterboard is sucking in moisture very well and will be destroyed if it's too wet.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a small partition/drywall (wood framing) inside your house is very simple. You need only a few tools and luckily, building material for this kind of wall is very cheap. After reading this article, you won't need a company to do it for you anymore!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine what kind of plasterboard you´ll need.\", \"描述\": \"White plasterboard is not water resistant but very cheap.\\nBlue or green plasterboard is water resistant but costs 2-3 times more.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw a straight line on the floor or on the place where are you going to build your wall.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut wood for the frame and assemble it, using a screwdriver.\", \"描述\": \"You can use a permanent adhesive but it's not recommended, if you want to be able to remove the dry wall later.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"[[Image:Quickly Build Small Partition Dry Wall ( Wood Framing ) Inside for Your House Step 4.jpg|center]Measure and cut the plasterboard.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the plasterboard on the frame.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add insulation to your wall, if you want.\", \"描述\": \"Just cut it to the right size and place it inside your frame. Make sure to get the right type of insulation, depending on what you need: heat or noise or both.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Plaster your wall or just cover it with some paper.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Always ensure that the crowns in the lumber face the same direction, otherwise you'll have a wavy wall. Lie the lumber on the floor on it's narrow side; you'll see the wood has a slight, visible bend, or \\\"crown\\\". Mark the high side of all the lumber with a pencil; when you assemble your wall, always keep the high sides all facing in one direction.\\n\", \"It's far easier to build your wall on it's side, laying on the floor. This way you can ensure all the corners are square, and you can drill any holes for wiring, etc. When completed, just stand it up and attach the bottom plate to the floor joists and do the same at the ceiling with the top plate. You'll probably need help to lift the framing into place and hold it square while you fasten it to the floor & ceiling joists.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not bend the plasterboard. If you bend plasterboard you´ll have difficulty to work with it.\\n\", \"Do not use white plasterboard if there´s any chance that it gets wet. Plasterboard is sucking in moisture very well and will be destroyed if it's too wet.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,331
How to Build a Dry Well
1. Selecting a Location for Your Well 1-1. Find the gutter downspout closest to the soggiest part of your yard. After it rains, note which part of your yard is having the most trouble with drainage. Take a stroll around your yard after a heavy rain and look for the area retaining the most water. Typically, the flattest section of your yard will have the most trouble with drainage if there aren’t any valleys. Dry wells are designed to keep water from building up near your home when it rains. You typically want to install your dry well near the downspout that has the biggest issue with water pooling up around it. 1-2. Position the dry well 10 feet (3.0 m) from the downspout. You need to place your dry well at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from your home to ensure that you aren’t soaking the ground around your basement or foundation. The water may seep at least 25 feet (7.6 m) away from your well, so try not to aim it towards a neighbor’s home. 1-3. Ensure the excess water will lead away from your home. In the event that your dry well floods, you’ll want the excess water to pool up and drain away from your home. Look for a direction away from your spout with a slight decline away from your home. Choose a path that doesn’t lead to your walkway or driveway. Ideally, your dry well will never flood. Unfortunately, this can happen during storms or periods of intense rain. To make things easy, you can use a sequence of flags or spray paint to indicate the location of the drain pipe and dry well. 1-4. Call your local government before you dig to check for utility lines. Once you know where you want to install your well, call your local government to let them know you need a consultation for a dry well. Unless you live in a rural area, there are utility lines running all over the place beneath your yard. Your local government will want to check to see if there are pipes where you plan on digging. This service is almost always free. You may need to pay for a permit to build a well though. Depending on where you live, you may have a legal obligation to contact your local government to let them know you’re planning on installing a dry well. 2. Digging Your Hole and Drain Lines 2-1. Dig a 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole where you want the dry well. Use a long-handled shovel to start digging where you want your well to go. Start in the center by pointing the head of your shovel into the well. Use the heel of your shoe to punch the shovel into the ground. Lift the dislodged soil and toss it on to a tarp or in a wheelbarrow so that you can dispose of it or reuse it later to fill your ditch. Don’t do this if it has rained within the past 2 days. Try to dig the walls of your well straight down. This can be kind of tough though and it’s alright if the vertical sides angle down towards the center a little. 2-2. Dig a ditch running from your downspout to the well. Make your ditch roughly 12 in (30 cm) deep and 6 in (15 cm) wide. Use your shovel to dig in a straight line starting at the downspout. If there isn’t a decline running from your downspout to the well, dig slightly deeper as you work your way toward the well. A small ditch designed to redirect water is called a swale. 2-3. Ensure that your ditch declines ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) for every 12 in (30 cm). Use a spirit level with hash marks for measuring angles and check the air bubble every 12 inches (30 cm) along your drain line. If you need to deepen your ditch, simply dig more soil out. 3. Adding Your Piping 3-1. Connect a PVC downspout adaptor and elbow to your downspout. Measure the opening of your downspout and buy an adaptor that is the same size. Get an elbow joint to connect your adaptor to the ditch pipe. Slide the adaptor into the opening of your downspout and point the opening towards your ditch. Use a natural brush to add a layer of PVC glue to the inside of the connection for your elbow and adaptor. Slide the 2 pieces together hold it for 30-45 seconds to let the glue settle. PVC glue is toxic so you need to wear a dust mask and gloves when you’re working with it. You’re working outside though, so it shouldn’t be too tough to avoid the fumes. 3-2. Apply glue to 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe and lay your drain line. Apply glue to the inside of each pipe fitting. Use your brush to add 1-2 layers of glue to the inside of each outer-fitting. Slide each piece of PVC together and work from the downspout towards your ditch. Let each pipe sit for 30-45 minutes to give the PVC glue time to dry. Measure the distance from the bottom of your spout to the middle of your well to determine how much PVC piping you need to buy. Add 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) to your pipe measurement so that you have some backup pieces in case you need some extra pieces. If you bought a flat length of pipe, add glue to the inside of each fitting ring before sliding each pipe together. 3-3. Lay non-woven landscape fabric under your pipe as you work. While not mandatory, you can prevent leaks in your pipe from destroying or eroding the soil under your drain by laying unwoven landscape fabric underneath the pipe. Simply slice a length of fabric with a utility knife and slide it underneath your pipe as you’re laying it. Use your PVC piping measurement to determine how much you need for your ditch. You’ll need plenty of excess fabric to stick out of each side of your well, so add 20–35 feet (6.1–10.7 m) to your order. The landscape fabric will diffuse water and divert it over a larger surface area to protect the soil underneath it. Landscape fabric is sometimes called geotextile. 3-4. Spread 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of gravel over the bottom of your well. Once you reach the well with your piping, fill the bottom of your well with loose gravel. Add a few inches of gravel and spread it out by hand so that it is even and covers the entirety of your well floor. 4. Finishing Your Well 4-1. Buy a drain tank or make your own from a large bucket. Buy a drain tank if you want a clean connection between your pipes and the tank. Build your own if you want to save a little money. To build your own tank, get a large, plastic bucket. Drill 25-30 2 in (5.1 cm) drainage holes all over the bottom half of the bucket. Tanks aren’t particularly expensive to buy. If you use a bucket for your tank, it won’t be able to fit a pipe perfectly to the tank. This is fine though; the water will drip from the opening down to your bucket. A 40 US gal (150 L) drain tank will be perfect for a 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole. There are bigger or smaller sizes though if you prefer. 4-2. Lay a sheet of landscape fabric in the well and add your tank. Line the entire interior of your well with landscape fabric. Spread the sheets out and push them into the sides and floor of your well. Lower your drain tank into the center of your hole so that the opening at the top lines up with the drain pipe. This will ensure that you can connect your last piece of piping. You do not need to affix the fabric to anything. The weight from the tank and the gravel will keep it in place. 4-3. Connect your drain pipe to the tank. You have a few options when it comes to how you connect the pipe to the tank. You can use a PVC elbow and an adapting piece to glue pipes together and slide it into the top of the drain tank. If you want a looser connection, use PVC glue to add a flexible pipe to the last length of your pipe. Fit it over the hole to your drain tank and wrap a worm drive around the connection before pulling the adjustable tab to tighten it. If you don’t want to connect the pipe, you can run the PVC pipe right over the opening for you tank. If you’re using a bucket as an improvised drain tank you won’t have anything to connect your pipe to. Simply leave the PVC opening directly over your bucket. You have to use a flexible pipe if your PVC pipe isn’t perfectly aligned with the opening of your drain pipe. 4-4. Fill in the remaining space in your well with loose gravel. Take your loose gravel and pour it all around your drain tank. Fill in the space over your tank once the sides are filled. Continue adding gravel until the pile of rocks is flush with the bed of your soil. Smooth the pile out on top so that it’s flat on your garden. Some people decorate the space around their gravel pit with flowers or decorative rocks. You can also add soil on top of the gravel, but this will make it hard to access your drain tank in the future. The gravel will ensure that the water drains evenly through the bottom of your well. 4-5. Cover your ditch with soil or gravel. You can either use soil or gravel to fill in the ditch that runs from your downspout to the tank. Either use a shovel to add the soil that you dug out from your ditch or pour rocks over each section of pipe. Try to avoid walking directly on your gravel or soil when you’re walking around your garden.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting a Location for Your Well\\n1-1. Find the gutter downspout closest to the soggiest part of your yard.\\nAfter it rains, note which part of your yard is having the most trouble with drainage. Take a stroll around your yard after a heavy rain and look for the area retaining the most water. Typically, the flattest section of your yard will have the most trouble with drainage if there aren’t any valleys.\\nDry wells are designed to keep water from building up near your home when it rains. You typically want to install your dry well near the downspout that has the biggest issue with water pooling up around it.\\n1-2. Position the dry well 10 feet (3.0 m) from the downspout.\\nYou need to place your dry well at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from your home to ensure that you aren’t soaking the ground around your basement or foundation. The water may seep at least 25 feet (7.6 m) away from your well, so try not to aim it towards a neighbor’s home.\\n1-3. Ensure the excess water will lead away from your home.\\nIn the event that your dry well floods, you’ll want the excess water to pool up and drain away from your home. Look for a direction away from your spout with a slight decline away from your home. Choose a path that doesn’t lead to your walkway or driveway.\\nIdeally, your dry well will never flood. Unfortunately, this can happen during storms or periods of intense rain.\\nTo make things easy, you can use a sequence of flags or spray paint to indicate the location of the drain pipe and dry well.\\n1-4. Call your local government before you dig to check for utility lines.\\nOnce you know where you want to install your well, call your local government to let them know you need a consultation for a dry well. Unless you live in a rural area, there are utility lines running all over the place beneath your yard. Your local government will want to check to see if there are pipes where you plan on digging.\\nThis service is almost always free. You may need to pay for a permit to build a well though.\\nDepending on where you live, you may have a legal obligation to contact your local government to let them know you’re planning on installing a dry well.\\n2. Digging Your Hole and Drain Lines\\n2-1. Dig a 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole where you want the dry well.\\nUse a long-handled shovel to start digging where you want your well to go. Start in the center by pointing the head of your shovel into the well. Use the heel of your shoe to punch the shovel into the ground. Lift the dislodged soil and toss it on to a tarp or in a wheelbarrow so that you can dispose of it or reuse it later to fill your ditch.\\nDon’t do this if it has rained within the past 2 days.\\nTry to dig the walls of your well straight down. This can be kind of tough though and it’s alright if the vertical sides angle down towards the center a little.\\n2-2. Dig a ditch running from your downspout to the well.\\nMake your ditch roughly 12 in (30 cm) deep and 6 in (15 cm) wide. Use your shovel to dig in a straight line starting at the downspout. If there isn’t a decline running from your downspout to the well, dig slightly deeper as you work your way toward the well.\\nA small ditch designed to redirect water is called a swale.\\n2-3. Ensure that your ditch declines ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) for every 12 in (30 cm).\\nUse a spirit level with hash marks for measuring angles and check the air bubble every 12 inches (30 cm) along your drain line. If you need to deepen your ditch, simply dig more soil out.\\n3. Adding Your Piping\\n3-1. Connect a PVC downspout adaptor and elbow to your downspout.\\nMeasure the opening of your downspout and buy an adaptor that is the same size. Get an elbow joint to connect your adaptor to the ditch pipe. Slide the adaptor into the opening of your downspout and point the opening towards your ditch. Use a natural brush to add a layer of PVC glue to the inside of the connection for your elbow and adaptor. Slide the 2 pieces together hold it for 30-45 seconds to let the glue settle.\\nPVC glue is toxic so you need to wear a dust mask and gloves when you’re working with it. You’re working outside though, so it shouldn’t be too tough to avoid the fumes.\\n3-2. Apply glue to 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe and lay your drain line.\\nApply glue to the inside of each pipe fitting. Use your brush to add 1-2 layers of glue to the inside of each outer-fitting. Slide each piece of PVC together and work from the downspout towards your ditch. Let each pipe sit for 30-45 minutes to give the PVC glue time to dry.\\nMeasure the distance from the bottom of your spout to the middle of your well to determine how much PVC piping you need to buy. Add 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) to your pipe measurement so that you have some backup pieces in case you need some extra pieces.\\nIf you bought a flat length of pipe, add glue to the inside of each fitting ring before sliding each pipe together.\\n3-3. Lay non-woven landscape fabric under your pipe as you work.\\nWhile not mandatory, you can prevent leaks in your pipe from destroying or eroding the soil under your drain by laying unwoven landscape fabric underneath the pipe. Simply slice a length of fabric with a utility knife and slide it underneath your pipe as you’re laying it.\\nUse your PVC piping measurement to determine how much you need for your ditch. You’ll need plenty of excess fabric to stick out of each side of your well, so add 20–35 feet (6.1–10.7 m) to your order.\\nThe landscape fabric will diffuse water and divert it over a larger surface area to protect the soil underneath it.\\nLandscape fabric is sometimes called geotextile.\\n3-4. Spread 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of gravel over the bottom of your well.\\nOnce you reach the well with your piping, fill the bottom of your well with loose gravel. Add a few inches of gravel and spread it out by hand so that it is even and covers the entirety of your well floor.\\n4. Finishing Your Well\\n4-1. Buy a drain tank or make your own from a large bucket.\\nBuy a drain tank if you want a clean connection between your pipes and the tank. Build your own if you want to save a little money. To build your own tank, get a large, plastic bucket. Drill 25-30 2 in (5.1 cm) drainage holes all over the bottom half of the bucket.\\nTanks aren’t particularly expensive to buy.\\nIf you use a bucket for your tank, it won’t be able to fit a pipe perfectly to the tank. This is fine though; the water will drip from the opening down to your bucket.\\nA 40 US gal (150 L) drain tank will be perfect for a 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole. There are bigger or smaller sizes though if you prefer.\\n4-2. Lay a sheet of landscape fabric in the well and add your tank.\\nLine the entire interior of your well with landscape fabric. Spread the sheets out and push them into the sides and floor of your well. Lower your drain tank into the center of your hole so that the opening at the top lines up with the drain pipe. This will ensure that you can connect your last piece of piping.\\nYou do not need to affix the fabric to anything. The weight from the tank and the gravel will keep it in place.\\n4-3. Connect your drain pipe to the tank.\\nYou have a few options when it comes to how you connect the pipe to the tank. You can use a PVC elbow and an adapting piece to glue pipes together and slide it into the top of the drain tank. If you want a looser connection, use PVC glue to add a flexible pipe to the last length of your pipe. Fit it over the hole to your drain tank and wrap a worm drive around the connection before pulling the adjustable tab to tighten it. If you don’t want to connect the pipe, you can run the PVC pipe right over the opening for you tank.\\nIf you’re using a bucket as an improvised drain tank you won’t have anything to connect your pipe to. Simply leave the PVC opening directly over your bucket.\\nYou have to use a flexible pipe if your PVC pipe isn’t perfectly aligned with the opening of your drain pipe.\\n4-4. Fill in the remaining space in your well with loose gravel.\\nTake your loose gravel and pour it all around your drain tank. Fill in the space over your tank once the sides are filled. Continue adding gravel until the pile of rocks is flush with the bed of your soil. Smooth the pile out on top so that it’s flat on your garden.\\nSome people decorate the space around their gravel pit with flowers or decorative rocks. You can also add soil on top of the gravel, but this will make it hard to access your drain tank in the future.\\nThe gravel will ensure that the water drains evenly through the bottom of your well.\\n4-5. Cover your ditch with soil or gravel.\\nYou can either use soil or gravel to fill in the ditch that runs from your downspout to the tank. Either use a shovel to add the soil that you dug out from your ditch or pour rocks over each section of pipe.\\nTry to avoid walking directly on your gravel or soil when you’re walking around your garden.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A dry well is an excellent way to divert water runoff from your roof away from your home and yard. Essentially, a dry well takes the water coming off of your home when it rains and drains it away from your home to a tank and gravel pit that is designed to handle large amounts of water. To build a dry well, you’ll need PVC piping, a drain tank, and an adaptor for your downspout. You’ll also need a lot of loose gravel and unwoven landscape fabric to line your ditch and fill your well. Before you start digging, contact your local government to check your yard for utility lines that may potentially interfere with your well system.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting a Location for Your Well\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find the gutter downspout closest to the soggiest part of your yard.\", \"描述\": \"After it rains, note which part of your yard is having the most trouble with drainage. Take a stroll around your yard after a heavy rain and look for the area retaining the most water. Typically, the flattest section of your yard will have the most trouble with drainage if there aren’t any valleys.\\nDry wells are designed to keep water from building up near your home when it rains. You typically want to install your dry well near the downspout that has the biggest issue with water pooling up around it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Position the dry well 10 feet (3.0 m) from the downspout.\", \"描述\": \"You need to place your dry well at least 10 feet (3.0 m) away from your home to ensure that you aren’t soaking the ground around your basement or foundation. The water may seep at least 25 feet (7.6 m) away from your well, so try not to aim it towards a neighbor’s home.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ensure the excess water will lead away from your home.\", \"描述\": \"In the event that your dry well floods, you’ll want the excess water to pool up and drain away from your home. Look for a direction away from your spout with a slight decline away from your home. Choose a path that doesn’t lead to your walkway or driveway.\\nIdeally, your dry well will never flood. Unfortunately, this can happen during storms or periods of intense rain.\\nTo make things easy, you can use a sequence of flags or spray paint to indicate the location of the drain pipe and dry well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Call your local government before you dig to check for utility lines.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know where you want to install your well, call your local government to let them know you need a consultation for a dry well. Unless you live in a rural area, there are utility lines running all over the place beneath your yard. Your local government will want to check to see if there are pipes where you plan on digging.\\nThis service is almost always free. You may need to pay for a permit to build a well though.\\nDepending on where you live, you may have a legal obligation to contact your local government to let them know you’re planning on installing a dry well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Digging Your Hole and Drain Lines\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a 4 by 4 ft (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole where you want the dry well.\", \"描述\": \"Use a long-handled shovel to start digging where you want your well to go. Start in the center by pointing the head of your shovel into the well. Use the heel of your shoe to punch the shovel into the ground. Lift the dislodged soil and toss it on to a tarp or in a wheelbarrow so that you can dispose of it or reuse it later to fill your ditch.\\nDon’t do this if it has rained within the past 2 days.\\nTry to dig the walls of your well straight down. This can be kind of tough though and it’s alright if the vertical sides angle down towards the center a little.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a ditch running from your downspout to the well.\", \"描述\": \"Make your ditch roughly 12 in (30 cm) deep and 6 in (15 cm) wide. Use your shovel to dig in a straight line starting at the downspout. If there isn’t a decline running from your downspout to the well, dig slightly deeper as you work your way toward the well.\\nA small ditch designed to redirect water is called a swale.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Ensure that your ditch declines ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) for every 12 in (30 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Use a spirit level with hash marks for measuring angles and check the air bubble every 12 inches (30 cm) along your drain line. If you need to deepen your ditch, simply dig more soil out.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Your Piping\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect a PVC downspout adaptor and elbow to your downspout.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the opening of your downspout and buy an adaptor that is the same size. Get an elbow joint to connect your adaptor to the ditch pipe. Slide the adaptor into the opening of your downspout and point the opening towards your ditch. Use a natural brush to add a layer of PVC glue to the inside of the connection for your elbow and adaptor. Slide the 2 pieces together hold it for 30-45 seconds to let the glue settle.\\nPVC glue is toxic so you need to wear a dust mask and gloves when you’re working with it. You’re working outside though, so it shouldn’t be too tough to avoid the fumes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply glue to 4 in (10 cm) PVC pipe and lay your drain line.\", \"描述\": \"Apply glue to the inside of each pipe fitting. Use your brush to add 1-2 layers of glue to the inside of each outer-fitting. Slide each piece of PVC together and work from the downspout towards your ditch. Let each pipe sit for 30-45 minutes to give the PVC glue time to dry.\\nMeasure the distance from the bottom of your spout to the middle of your well to determine how much PVC piping you need to buy. Add 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) to your pipe measurement so that you have some backup pieces in case you need some extra pieces.\\nIf you bought a flat length of pipe, add glue to the inside of each fitting ring before sliding each pipe together.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay non-woven landscape fabric under your pipe as you work.\", \"描述\": \"While not mandatory, you can prevent leaks in your pipe from destroying or eroding the soil under your drain by laying unwoven landscape fabric underneath the pipe. Simply slice a length of fabric with a utility knife and slide it underneath your pipe as you’re laying it.\\nUse your PVC piping measurement to determine how much you need for your ditch. You’ll need plenty of excess fabric to stick out of each side of your well, so add 20–35 feet (6.1–10.7 m) to your order.\\nThe landscape fabric will diffuse water and divert it over a larger surface area to protect the soil underneath it.\\nLandscape fabric is sometimes called geotextile.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Spread 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of gravel over the bottom of your well.\", \"描述\": \"Once you reach the well with your piping, fill the bottom of your well with loose gravel. Add a few inches of gravel and spread it out by hand so that it is even and covers the entirety of your well floor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Finishing Your Well\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a drain tank or make your own from a large bucket.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a drain tank if you want a clean connection between your pipes and the tank. Build your own if you want to save a little money. To build your own tank, get a large, plastic bucket. Drill 25-30 2 in (5.1 cm) drainage holes all over the bottom half of the bucket.\\nTanks aren’t particularly expensive to buy.\\nIf you use a bucket for your tank, it won’t be able to fit a pipe perfectly to the tank. This is fine though; the water will drip from the opening down to your bucket.\\nA 40 US gal (150 L) drain tank will be perfect for a 4 by 4 feet (1.2 by 1.2 m) hole. There are bigger or smaller sizes though if you prefer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay a sheet of landscape fabric in the well and add your tank.\", \"描述\": \"Line the entire interior of your well with landscape fabric. Spread the sheets out and push them into the sides and floor of your well. Lower your drain tank into the center of your hole so that the opening at the top lines up with the drain pipe. This will ensure that you can connect your last piece of piping.\\nYou do not need to affix the fabric to anything. The weight from the tank and the gravel will keep it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Connect your drain pipe to the tank.\", \"描述\": \"You have a few options when it comes to how you connect the pipe to the tank. You can use a PVC elbow and an adapting piece to glue pipes together and slide it into the top of the drain tank. If you want a looser connection, use PVC glue to add a flexible pipe to the last length of your pipe. Fit it over the hole to your drain tank and wrap a worm drive around the connection before pulling the adjustable tab to tighten it. If you don’t want to connect the pipe, you can run the PVC pipe right over the opening for you tank.\\nIf you’re using a bucket as an improvised drain tank you won’t have anything to connect your pipe to. Simply leave the PVC opening directly over your bucket.\\nYou have to use a flexible pipe if your PVC pipe isn’t perfectly aligned with the opening of your drain pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill in the remaining space in your well with loose gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Take your loose gravel and pour it all around your drain tank. Fill in the space over your tank once the sides are filled. Continue adding gravel until the pile of rocks is flush with the bed of your soil. Smooth the pile out on top so that it’s flat on your garden.\\nSome people decorate the space around their gravel pit with flowers or decorative rocks. You can also add soil on top of the gravel, but this will make it hard to access your drain tank in the future.\\nThe gravel will ensure that the water drains evenly through the bottom of your well.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover your ditch with soil or gravel.\", \"描述\": \"You can either use soil or gravel to fill in the ditch that runs from your downspout to the tank. Either use a shovel to add the soil that you dug out from your ditch or pour rocks over each section of pipe.\\nTry to avoid walking directly on your gravel or soil when you’re walking around your garden.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,332
How to Build a Dune Buggy
1. Choosing Building Material 1-1. Buy a Type 1 Volkswagen Beetle for a pre-made dune buggy. The Type 1 is the perfect size and shape for a dune buggy. If you get a good car, most of the important parts are reusable, so you don’t have to purchase or assemble them yourself. In addition to the chassis, you could save the seats, brakes, engine, and other parts. These cars become tougher to find as time goes on. Even if you are able to track one down, it may not be in great condition and could still require a lot of work. Later Beetle models aren’t as easy to convert into a dune buggy.. If you need to spruce up a used car, replacing each individual part is still easier and cheaper than starting from scratch. You could work one part at a time if you have the knowledge or take it to a mechanic. 1-2. Purchase a buggy kit to reduce the amount of assembly required. Some companies sell pre-made dune buggies. Pay for a chassis, then fit the fiberglass frame over it to prepare your buggy for the road. The only problem is you still need to hook up parts like the engine and transmission that you buy separately. Despite that, it saves you the hassle of stripping an old car or building a new frame. Search online for dune buggy kits. There are a few companies that sell them. The finished dune buggies are considered street legal in most areas, which makes them much easier to transport. Kits are pretty expensive. You’re going to end up paying at least $2,000 USD apiece for the chassis and the body frame. You also have to consider the cost of shipping and your ability to trick the buggy out with the equipment it needs to run. 1-3. Buy a construction plan if you intend on building a buggy from scratch. The plan is your blueprint showing you how to construct the buggy. However, you still get to devote plenty of time to creating the chassis, selecting and assembling the mechanical parts, and so on. It’s an option that could save you money and give you a sense of pride if you’re skilled at working with cars. Plans will run you about $25 unless you stumble upon free ones. Search online for dune buggy plans or blueprints. To build a custom chassis, you will need to know how to weld. Most builders use MIG welding with a MIG electrical torch, a shielding gas, and a metal wire used to solder steel pipes together. Also, check out dune buggy community forums. Get advice from people familiar with dune buggies. They can point you in the right direction when you’re looking for plans and parts. 1-4. Pay for individual parts separately to complete your buggy. No matter how you get your frame, you are still going to need an engine and other parts. The easiest way to do this is by visiting a site that sells buggy parts. Many companies that sell kits also sell rebuilt Beetle parts, which are very difficult to find new. You then need to figure out how to install each part in your buggy unless you have a mechanic do it. Search online for parts stores or, if you’re really handy, go to a scrapyard. Another way to get parts is by taking old ones from other vehicles. Ask other dune buggy owners where they get their parts. Many people repurpose parts from old cars or appliances like snowmobiles. 2. Taking Apart a Volkswagen Beetle 2-1. Lift Park the Beetle on a flat, level surface, then locate the jack spots behind each wheel. Raise the car up with a jack, then slip the jack stands underneath it to hold it up. You will need to get underneath the car in order to detach the frame. Make sure the car feels stable and doesn’t move when you touch it. Crawling under a car is dangerous. Take plenty of time inspecting the car, making sure the jacks are well-positioned and stable. 2-2. Detach the battery and other electrical wires by hand. Start with the car’s engine compartment, which is in the back on a classic Beetle. The battery is underneath the back seat and held down by a bracket you can turn counterclockwise with a socket wrench. Do the same thing with the nuts on the battery terminals to remove the red and black wires connected to them. Also, squeeze the plastic connectors on any additional wires you are able to reach nearby in order to detach them.. Every electrical component needs to be detached. That includes the brake lights, the oil pressure switch, and the motor. Some of them are hard to spot at first, but you will get another chance at them as you remove each component. You could cut the wires to remove the parts from the car, but you will then need to replace them if you plan on using the parts again. 2-3. Remove the bolts holding the body panels to the chassis. Crawl under the car with a box-end wrench in hand. A classic Beetle has about 22 bolts with 17 mm (0.67 in) and 13 mm (0.51 in) heads around its edges. Twist these counterclockwise with wrenches of the same size until you are able to pull them off. There are also bolts on the axles near the wheel, so make sure you get those as well if they are there. Sometimes bolts are missing in older cars. If someone removed them without replacing them, that makes your job a little easier. Be sure to get new bolts if you need them when you begin putting the dune buggy back together. 2-4. Unscrew the fuel tank and any other bolts under the hood. Check back inside the car for any bolts holding the components in place. There are usually 4 of them around the fuel tank in the front end, but you may find other ones to take care of. Use your box-end wrench again to remove them. If you’re able to move the fuel tank, you’re on the right track. Moving the fuel tank will help you access some of the wires, including the steering column and brake lights. 2-5. Detach the fuel and brake fluid lines with pliers. This part gets a little messy, so have some clean storage containers available. Find the fuel line first as it runs from the fuel tank to the chassis. Using a pair of locking pliers, pull the hose free and catch the draining fuel in a container. Then, do the same thing for the brake fluid chamber near the engine and brake lights. Keep the fuel and brake fluid separate. If you can’t reuse it, take it up to a car repair shop and ask them if they can recycle it for you. 2-6. Remove as many components out of the car as you can. Now you get to start the fun part of pulling all the guts out of the car. Try to remove the engine, the fuel tank, and other parts sitting inside the trunk and hood. Lift them up slowly in case you missed any wires that need to be disconnected first. Set them all aside, since most of them can be reused in your buggy. Leave the frame in place for now. It’s usually too heavy to move right away, although you could try taking off the doors and hoods by unscrewing them with a Phillips-head screwdriver. If you plan on reusing the wires and hoses still in the car, consider labeling them so you know what parts they attach to. 2-7. Lift the top part of the frame off of the chassis. Once you have all the internal parts out, detach any remaining body panels. The frame is like the car’s metal skeleton that all the parts attach to, while the chassis is the base part that rests over the wheels. The framework is too heavy for a single person to lift, so gather 4 of your strongest friends. Have everyone lift the frame up, and if you have an extra set of hands, have them push the chassis out from under it. Try to remove the body panels by using a socket wrench on the bolts connecting them to the frame. Many times, you can save both the frame and chassis to form the base structure of the buggy. If the panels won’t come off, lift the frame off the chassis. If the chassis is intact, you can easily reinstall the engine and other components needed to cruise around in your new buggy. Sell the leftover parts if you’re looking for a little extra spending money. Otherwise, repurpose the scrap metal for another project. 3. Assembling the Dune Buggy 3-1. Inspect the parts for any sign of damage. If you’re using an old VW, you’re probably working with a lot of rusted parts. Replace anything in bad condition so you can enjoy plenty of safe rides later. Try to get parts that are as similar as possible to the old ones to make the building process simpler. Shop online or take the old parts with you when you go shopping at an auto parts store. Some parts may be stuck. Soak them in a penetrating oil like WD-40 to loosen them for removal. The replacement part doesn’t have to be exact, and you’re free to get shiny new parts or repurposed parts from other vehicles. Freestyle customizing is possible if you know how to build cars. 3-2. Place the engine on the back part of the frame behind the seats. The VW Beetle 4-cylinder, air-cooled engine works well in a dune buggy. It is relatively light, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. Secure it to the frame using a box-end wrench and some bolts, then begin twisting the air hoses onto the ventilation spouts with the wrench. Air-cooled engines are much easier to set up than water-cooled engines. You don’t need to worry about cooling fluid or much of anything else that complicates things. The engine stays cool by taking in air as you drive. 3-3. Install a new battery in the car. Find some space in the battery bracket near the engine. Generally, a dune buggy does well with a 12 or 24-volt battery. Use the old battery in the vehicle for comparison if you still have it. Once you have the new battery, cover it with the battery bracket and hold them together using 4 mm (0.16 in) hex bolts and Phillips screws as needed. The battery powers the buggy's starter along with any other electrical parts. Dune buggies don’t require the strongest batteries, but if you have a choice, get a larger battery to ensure your vehicle has enough power. 3-4. Install shocks so the buggy doesn’t bounce as much on the road. A good suspension system gives you that smooth, relaxing ride even when you’re driving over some bumpy hills. The old shocks are the coiled spring-like pieces underneath your buggy. Use a socket wrench set and penetrating oil to remove them. Replace them with similar shock absorbers to keep your buggy stable as it moves. A good suspension system keeps a buggy stable and off the pavement. Consider using a basic system from a VW Beetle and then replacing the individual components as they wear out. 3-5. Replace worn-out tires with new ones. Keep your car jacked up and start removing the lug nuts with an appropriately-sized socket wrench. Hang onto the lug nuts unless they’re in bad condition. Then, get some VW Beetle tires as replacements. Look for tires that are the same size and use the same number of lug nuts as the old ones. If your tires are really worn out, you could remove the entire wheel and either clean it or replace it. 3-6. Fit a new fiberglass body to fit over the buggy’s frame. The easiest way to do this is by purchasing a pre-made fiberglass frame. The underside of the body attaches to the chassis through metal bolts. That allows you to snap the fiberglass panels together and then add any extra bolts needed to secure them. Pre-made frames and kits come with all the bolts you need. This is handy since the bolt size you need to use could vary depending on the manufacturer. Once you finish installing the body, you can give your buggy a fresh coat of paint before taking it out for a drive. Tips If you don’t have a factory VW engine you like, you could replace it with something similar. Engines from other cars, motorcycles, and even vehicles like snow blowers work well in a buggy. Strip your dune buggy down as much as possible so it only contains the essentials. This makes it lighter and less cluttered so it zips along faster. If you need help dealing with any of the mechanical work, take your dune buggy to a technician. Warnings Crawling under an unstable car is dangerous, so make sure your vehicle is secure on jacks and jack stands while you work on it. Older disk brakes may contain asbestos dust, which is very dangerous to breathe in. Wear an asbestos-safe respirator mask and keep other people away from the construction area. Dune buggies aren’t considered street legal in some areas, so check local regulations before taking a drive.[12] X Research source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Building Material\\n1-1. Buy a Type 1 Volkswagen Beetle for a pre-made dune buggy.\\nThe Type 1 is the perfect size and shape for a dune buggy. If you get a good car, most of the important parts are reusable, so you don’t have to purchase or assemble them yourself. In addition to the chassis, you could save the seats, brakes, engine, and other parts.\\nThese cars become tougher to find as time goes on. Even if you are able to track one down, it may not be in great condition and could still require a lot of work. Later Beetle models aren’t as easy to convert into a dune buggy..\\nIf you need to spruce up a used car, replacing each individual part is still easier and cheaper than starting from scratch. You could work one part at a time if you have the knowledge or take it to a mechanic.\\n1-2. Purchase a buggy kit to reduce the amount of assembly required.\\nSome companies sell pre-made dune buggies. Pay for a chassis, then fit the fiberglass frame over it to prepare your buggy for the road. The only problem is you still need to hook up parts like the engine and transmission that you buy separately. Despite that, it saves you the hassle of stripping an old car or building a new frame.\\nSearch online for dune buggy kits. There are a few companies that sell them. The finished dune buggies are considered street legal in most areas, which makes them much easier to transport.\\nKits are pretty expensive. You’re going to end up paying at least $2,000 USD apiece for the chassis and the body frame. You also have to consider the cost of shipping and your ability to trick the buggy out with the equipment it needs to run.\\n1-3. Buy a construction plan if you intend on building a buggy from scratch.\\nThe plan is your blueprint showing you how to construct the buggy. However, you still get to devote plenty of time to creating the chassis, selecting and assembling the mechanical parts, and so on. It’s an option that could save you money and give you a sense of pride if you’re skilled at working with cars.\\nPlans will run you about $25 unless you stumble upon free ones. Search online for dune buggy plans or blueprints.\\nTo build a custom chassis, you will need to know how to weld. Most builders use MIG welding with a MIG electrical torch, a shielding gas, and a metal wire used to solder steel pipes together.\\nAlso, check out dune buggy community forums. Get advice from people familiar with dune buggies. They can point you in the right direction when you’re looking for plans and parts.\\n1-4. Pay for individual parts separately to complete your buggy.\\nNo matter how you get your frame, you are still going to need an engine and other parts. The easiest way to do this is by visiting a site that sells buggy parts. Many companies that sell kits also sell rebuilt Beetle parts, which are very difficult to find new. You then need to figure out how to install each part in your buggy unless you have a mechanic do it.\\nSearch online for parts stores or, if you’re really handy, go to a scrapyard.\\nAnother way to get parts is by taking old ones from other vehicles. Ask other dune buggy owners where they get their parts. Many people repurpose parts from old cars or appliances like snowmobiles.\\n2. Taking Apart a Volkswagen Beetle\\n2-1. Lift\\nPark the Beetle on a flat, level surface, then locate the jack spots behind each wheel. Raise the car up with a jack, then slip the jack stands underneath it to hold it up. You will need to get underneath the car in order to detach the frame. Make sure the car feels stable and doesn’t move when you touch it.\\nCrawling under a car is dangerous. Take plenty of time inspecting the car, making sure the jacks are well-positioned and stable.\\n2-2. Detach the battery and other electrical wires by hand.\\nStart with the car’s engine compartment, which is in the back on a classic Beetle. The battery is underneath the back seat and held down by a bracket you can turn counterclockwise with a socket wrench. Do the same thing with the nuts on the battery terminals to remove the red and black wires connected to them. Also, squeeze the plastic connectors on any additional wires you are able to reach nearby in order to detach them..\\nEvery electrical component needs to be detached. That includes the brake lights, the oil pressure switch, and the motor. Some of them are hard to spot at first, but you will get another chance at them as you remove each component.\\nYou could cut the wires to remove the parts from the car, but you will then need to replace them if you plan on using the parts again.\\n2-3. Remove the bolts holding the body panels to the chassis.\\nCrawl under the car with a box-end wrench in hand. A classic Beetle has about 22 bolts with 17 mm (0.67 in) and 13 mm (0.51 in) heads around its edges. Twist these counterclockwise with wrenches of the same size until you are able to pull them off.\\nThere are also bolts on the axles near the wheel, so make sure you get those as well if they are there.\\nSometimes bolts are missing in older cars. If someone removed them without replacing them, that makes your job a little easier. Be sure to get new bolts if you need them when you begin putting the dune buggy back together.\\n2-4. Unscrew the fuel tank and any other bolts under the hood.\\nCheck back inside the car for any bolts holding the components in place. There are usually 4 of them around the fuel tank in the front end, but you may find other ones to take care of. Use your box-end wrench again to remove them. If you’re able to move the fuel tank, you’re on the right track.\\nMoving the fuel tank will help you access some of the wires, including the steering column and brake lights.\\n2-5. Detach the fuel and brake fluid lines with pliers.\\nThis part gets a little messy, so have some clean storage containers available. Find the fuel line first as it runs from the fuel tank to the chassis. Using a pair of locking pliers, pull the hose free and catch the draining fuel in a container. Then, do the same thing for the brake fluid chamber near the engine and brake lights.\\nKeep the fuel and brake fluid separate. If you can’t reuse it, take it up to a car repair shop and ask them if they can recycle it for you.\\n2-6. Remove as many components out of the car as you can.\\nNow you get to start the fun part of pulling all the guts out of the car. Try to remove the engine, the fuel tank, and other parts sitting inside the trunk and hood. Lift them up slowly in case you missed any wires that need to be disconnected first. Set them all aside, since most of them can be reused in your buggy.\\nLeave the frame in place for now. It’s usually too heavy to move right away, although you could try taking off the doors and hoods by unscrewing them with a Phillips-head screwdriver.\\nIf you plan on reusing the wires and hoses still in the car, consider labeling them so you know what parts they attach to.\\n2-7. Lift the top part of the frame off of the chassis.\\nOnce you have all the internal parts out, detach any remaining body panels. The frame is like the car’s metal skeleton that all the parts attach to, while the chassis is the base part that rests over the wheels. The framework is too heavy for a single person to lift, so gather 4 of your strongest friends. Have everyone lift the frame up, and if you have an extra set of hands, have them push the chassis out from under it.\\nTry to remove the body panels by using a socket wrench on the bolts connecting them to the frame. Many times, you can save both the frame and chassis to form the base structure of the buggy. If the panels won’t come off, lift the frame off the chassis.\\nIf the chassis is intact, you can easily reinstall the engine and other components needed to cruise around in your new buggy.\\nSell the leftover parts if you’re looking for a little extra spending money. Otherwise, repurpose the scrap metal for another project.\\n3. Assembling the Dune Buggy\\n3-1. Inspect the parts for any sign of damage.\\nIf you’re using an old VW, you’re probably working with a lot of rusted parts. Replace anything in bad condition so you can enjoy plenty of safe rides later. Try to get parts that are as similar as possible to the old ones to make the building process simpler. Shop online or take the old parts with you when you go shopping at an auto parts store.\\nSome parts may be stuck. Soak them in a penetrating oil like WD-40 to loosen them for removal.\\nThe replacement part doesn’t have to be exact, and you’re free to get shiny new parts or repurposed parts from other vehicles. Freestyle customizing is possible if you know how to build cars.\\n3-2. Place the engine on the back part of the frame behind the seats.\\nThe VW Beetle 4-cylinder, air-cooled engine works well in a dune buggy. It is relatively light, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. Secure it to the frame using a box-end wrench and some bolts, then begin twisting the air hoses onto the ventilation spouts with the wrench.\\nAir-cooled engines are much easier to set up than water-cooled engines. You don’t need to worry about cooling fluid or much of anything else that complicates things. The engine stays cool by taking in air as you drive.\\n3-3. Install a new battery in the car.\\nFind some space in the battery bracket near the engine. Generally, a dune buggy does well with a 12 or 24-volt battery. Use the old battery in the vehicle for comparison if you still have it. Once you have the new battery, cover it with the battery bracket and hold them together using 4 mm (0.16 in) hex bolts and Phillips screws as needed.\\nThe battery powers the buggy's starter along with any other electrical parts. Dune buggies don’t require the strongest batteries, but if you have a choice, get a larger battery to ensure your vehicle has enough power.\\n3-4. Install shocks so the buggy doesn’t bounce as much on the road.\\nA good suspension system gives you that smooth, relaxing ride even when you’re driving over some bumpy hills. The old shocks are the coiled spring-like pieces underneath your buggy. Use a socket wrench set and penetrating oil to remove them. Replace them with similar shock absorbers to keep your buggy stable as it moves.\\nA good suspension system keeps a buggy stable and off the pavement. Consider using a basic system from a VW Beetle and then replacing the individual components as they wear out.\\n3-5. Replace worn-out tires with new ones.\\nKeep your car jacked up and start removing the lug nuts with an appropriately-sized socket wrench. Hang onto the lug nuts unless they’re in bad condition. Then, get some VW Beetle tires as replacements. Look for tires that are the same size and use the same number of lug nuts as the old ones. \\nIf your tires are really worn out, you could remove the entire wheel and either clean it or replace it.\\n3-6. Fit a new fiberglass body to fit over the buggy’s frame.\\nThe easiest way to do this is by purchasing a pre-made fiberglass frame. The underside of the body attaches to the chassis through metal bolts. That allows you to snap the fiberglass panels together and then add any extra bolts needed to secure them.\\nPre-made frames and kits come with all the bolts you need. This is handy since the bolt size you need to use could vary depending on the manufacturer.\\nOnce you finish installing the body, you can give your buggy a fresh coat of paint before taking it out for a drive.\\nTips\\nIf you don’t have a factory VW engine you like, you could replace it with something similar. Engines from other cars, motorcycles, and even vehicles like snow blowers work well in a buggy.\\nStrip your dune buggy down as much as possible so it only contains the essentials. This makes it lighter and less cluttered so it zips along faster.\\nIf you need help dealing with any of the mechanical work, take your dune buggy to a technician.\\nWarnings\\nCrawling under an unstable car is dangerous, so make sure your vehicle is secure on jacks and jack stands while you work on it.\\nOlder disk brakes may contain asbestos dust, which is very dangerous to breathe in. Wear an asbestos-safe respirator mask and keep other people away from the construction area.\\nDune buggies aren’t considered street legal in some areas, so check local regulations before taking a drive.[12]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Dune buggies are roofless vehicles with big wheels and wide tires for going off-roading on sand. It is a fun way to cruise around, but building your own vehicle from scratch is challenging unless you have mechanical experience. Most people start with an old Volkswagen Beetle or a building kit for a reliable but relatively inexpensive way to get into building. You have to take apart the car and replace the broken parts, but eventually, you can end up with a drivable dune buggy to take out on the open road.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Building Material\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy a Type 1 Volkswagen Beetle for a pre-made dune buggy.\", \"描述\": \"The Type 1 is the perfect size and shape for a dune buggy. If you get a good car, most of the important parts are reusable, so you don’t have to purchase or assemble them yourself. In addition to the chassis, you could save the seats, brakes, engine, and other parts.\\nThese cars become tougher to find as time goes on. Even if you are able to track one down, it may not be in great condition and could still require a lot of work. Later Beetle models aren’t as easy to convert into a dune buggy..\\nIf you need to spruce up a used car, replacing each individual part is still easier and cheaper than starting from scratch. You could work one part at a time if you have the knowledge or take it to a mechanic.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a buggy kit to reduce the amount of assembly required.\", \"描述\": \"Some companies sell pre-made dune buggies. Pay for a chassis, then fit the fiberglass frame over it to prepare your buggy for the road. The only problem is you still need to hook up parts like the engine and transmission that you buy separately. Despite that, it saves you the hassle of stripping an old car or building a new frame.\\nSearch online for dune buggy kits. There are a few companies that sell them. The finished dune buggies are considered street legal in most areas, which makes them much easier to transport.\\nKits are pretty expensive. You’re going to end up paying at least $2,000 USD apiece for the chassis and the body frame. You also have to consider the cost of shipping and your ability to trick the buggy out with the equipment it needs to run.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy a construction plan if you intend on building a buggy from scratch.\", \"描述\": \"The plan is your blueprint showing you how to construct the buggy. However, you still get to devote plenty of time to creating the chassis, selecting and assembling the mechanical parts, and so on. It’s an option that could save you money and give you a sense of pride if you’re skilled at working with cars.\\nPlans will run you about $25 unless you stumble upon free ones. Search online for dune buggy plans or blueprints.\\nTo build a custom chassis, you will need to know how to weld. Most builders use MIG welding with a MIG electrical torch, a shielding gas, and a metal wire used to solder steel pipes together.\\nAlso, check out dune buggy community forums. Get advice from people familiar with dune buggies. They can point you in the right direction when you’re looking for plans and parts.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pay for individual parts separately to complete your buggy.\", \"描述\": \"No matter how you get your frame, you are still going to need an engine and other parts. The easiest way to do this is by visiting a site that sells buggy parts. Many companies that sell kits also sell rebuilt Beetle parts, which are very difficult to find new. You then need to figure out how to install each part in your buggy unless you have a mechanic do it.\\nSearch online for parts stores or, if you’re really handy, go to a scrapyard.\\nAnother way to get parts is by taking old ones from other vehicles. Ask other dune buggy owners where they get their parts. Many people repurpose parts from old cars or appliances like snowmobiles.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Taking Apart a Volkswagen Beetle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lift\", \"描述\": \"Park the Beetle on a flat, level surface, then locate the jack spots behind each wheel. Raise the car up with a jack, then slip the jack stands underneath it to hold it up. You will need to get underneath the car in order to detach the frame. Make sure the car feels stable and doesn’t move when you touch it.\\nCrawling under a car is dangerous. Take plenty of time inspecting the car, making sure the jacks are well-positioned and stable.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Detach the battery and other electrical wires by hand.\", \"描述\": \"Start with the car’s engine compartment, which is in the back on a classic Beetle. The battery is underneath the back seat and held down by a bracket you can turn counterclockwise with a socket wrench. Do the same thing with the nuts on the battery terminals to remove the red and black wires connected to them. Also, squeeze the plastic connectors on any additional wires you are able to reach nearby in order to detach them..\\nEvery electrical component needs to be detached. That includes the brake lights, the oil pressure switch, and the motor. Some of them are hard to spot at first, but you will get another chance at them as you remove each component.\\nYou could cut the wires to remove the parts from the car, but you will then need to replace them if you plan on using the parts again.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the bolts holding the body panels to the chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Crawl under the car with a box-end wrench in hand. A classic Beetle has about 22 bolts with 17 mm (0.67 in) and 13 mm (0.51 in) heads around its edges. Twist these counterclockwise with wrenches of the same size until you are able to pull them off.\\nThere are also bolts on the axles near the wheel, so make sure you get those as well if they are there.\\nSometimes bolts are missing in older cars. If someone removed them without replacing them, that makes your job a little easier. Be sure to get new bolts if you need them when you begin putting the dune buggy back together.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Unscrew the fuel tank and any other bolts under the hood.\", \"描述\": \"Check back inside the car for any bolts holding the components in place. There are usually 4 of them around the fuel tank in the front end, but you may find other ones to take care of. Use your box-end wrench again to remove them. If you’re able to move the fuel tank, you’re on the right track.\\nMoving the fuel tank will help you access some of the wires, including the steering column and brake lights.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Detach the fuel and brake fluid lines with pliers.\", \"描述\": \"This part gets a little messy, so have some clean storage containers available. Find the fuel line first as it runs from the fuel tank to the chassis. Using a pair of locking pliers, pull the hose free and catch the draining fuel in a container. Then, do the same thing for the brake fluid chamber near the engine and brake lights.\\nKeep the fuel and brake fluid separate. If you can’t reuse it, take it up to a car repair shop and ask them if they can recycle it for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove as many components out of the car as you can.\", \"描述\": \"Now you get to start the fun part of pulling all the guts out of the car. Try to remove the engine, the fuel tank, and other parts sitting inside the trunk and hood. Lift them up slowly in case you missed any wires that need to be disconnected first. Set them all aside, since most of them can be reused in your buggy.\\nLeave the frame in place for now. It’s usually too heavy to move right away, although you could try taking off the doors and hoods by unscrewing them with a Phillips-head screwdriver.\\nIf you plan on reusing the wires and hoses still in the car, consider labeling them so you know what parts they attach to.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lift the top part of the frame off of the chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all the internal parts out, detach any remaining body panels. The frame is like the car’s metal skeleton that all the parts attach to, while the chassis is the base part that rests over the wheels. The framework is too heavy for a single person to lift, so gather 4 of your strongest friends. Have everyone lift the frame up, and if you have an extra set of hands, have them push the chassis out from under it.\\nTry to remove the body panels by using a socket wrench on the bolts connecting them to the frame. Many times, you can save both the frame and chassis to form the base structure of the buggy. If the panels won’t come off, lift the frame off the chassis.\\nIf the chassis is intact, you can easily reinstall the engine and other components needed to cruise around in your new buggy.\\nSell the leftover parts if you’re looking for a little extra spending money. Otherwise, repurpose the scrap metal for another project.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Dune Buggy\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Inspect the parts for any sign of damage.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re using an old VW, you’re probably working with a lot of rusted parts. Replace anything in bad condition so you can enjoy plenty of safe rides later. Try to get parts that are as similar as possible to the old ones to make the building process simpler. Shop online or take the old parts with you when you go shopping at an auto parts store.\\nSome parts may be stuck. Soak them in a penetrating oil like WD-40 to loosen them for removal.\\nThe replacement part doesn’t have to be exact, and you’re free to get shiny new parts or repurposed parts from other vehicles. Freestyle customizing is possible if you know how to build cars.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the engine on the back part of the frame behind the seats.\", \"描述\": \"The VW Beetle 4-cylinder, air-cooled engine works well in a dune buggy. It is relatively light, inexpensive, and easy to maintain. Secure it to the frame using a box-end wrench and some bolts, then begin twisting the air hoses onto the ventilation spouts with the wrench.\\nAir-cooled engines are much easier to set up than water-cooled engines. You don’t need to worry about cooling fluid or much of anything else that complicates things. The engine stays cool by taking in air as you drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install a new battery in the car.\", \"描述\": \"Find some space in the battery bracket near the engine. Generally, a dune buggy does well with a 12 or 24-volt battery. Use the old battery in the vehicle for comparison if you still have it. Once you have the new battery, cover it with the battery bracket and hold them together using 4 mm (0.16 in) hex bolts and Phillips screws as needed.\\nThe battery powers the buggy's starter along with any other electrical parts. Dune buggies don’t require the strongest batteries, but if you have a choice, get a larger battery to ensure your vehicle has enough power.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install shocks so the buggy doesn’t bounce as much on the road.\", \"描述\": \"A good suspension system gives you that smooth, relaxing ride even when you’re driving over some bumpy hills. The old shocks are the coiled spring-like pieces underneath your buggy. Use a socket wrench set and penetrating oil to remove them. Replace them with similar shock absorbers to keep your buggy stable as it moves.\\nA good suspension system keeps a buggy stable and off the pavement. Consider using a basic system from a VW Beetle and then replacing the individual components as they wear out.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Replace worn-out tires with new ones.\", \"描述\": \"Keep your car jacked up and start removing the lug nuts with an appropriately-sized socket wrench. Hang onto the lug nuts unless they’re in bad condition. Then, get some VW Beetle tires as replacements. Look for tires that are the same size and use the same number of lug nuts as the old ones. \\nIf your tires are really worn out, you could remove the entire wheel and either clean it or replace it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fit a new fiberglass body to fit over the buggy’s frame.\", \"描述\": \"The easiest way to do this is by purchasing a pre-made fiberglass frame. The underside of the body attaches to the chassis through metal bolts. That allows you to snap the fiberglass panels together and then add any extra bolts needed to secure them.\\nPre-made frames and kits come with all the bolts you need. This is handy since the bolt size you need to use could vary depending on the manufacturer.\\nOnce you finish installing the body, you can give your buggy a fresh coat of paint before taking it out for a drive.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you don’t have a factory VW engine you like, you could replace it with something similar. Engines from other cars, motorcycles, and even vehicles like snow blowers work well in a buggy.\\n\", \"Strip your dune buggy down as much as possible so it only contains the essentials. This makes it lighter and less cluttered so it zips along faster.\\n\", \"If you need help dealing with any of the mechanical work, take your dune buggy to a technician.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Crawling under an unstable car is dangerous, so make sure your vehicle is secure on jacks and jack stands while you work on it.\\n\", \"Older disk brakes may contain asbestos dust, which is very dangerous to breathe in. Wear an asbestos-safe respirator mask and keep other people away from the construction area.\\n\", \"Dune buggies aren’t considered street legal in some areas, so check local regulations before taking a drive.[12]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,333
How to Build a Dunk Tank
1. Constructing the Target and Pourer 1-1. Put on safety gear when cutting material for the tank. Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses for protection. Don’t wear long-sleeved clothing, jewelry, gloves, or anything else that could get caught in the saw blades. Also, keep other people out of the area until you’re done working. Both dust masks and safety glasses are available at most hardware stores. To reduce the mess left behind, work outdoors. If that isn’t possible, open up nearby doors and windows to ventilate some of the dust and fumes from the glue. Consider vacuuming up any remaining dust after you have finished building the tank. 1-2. Use a bucket to outline and cut a hole in a piece of plywood. Set a 5 US gal (19,000 mL) bucket on top of a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick piece of plywood. To keep the bucket steady, clamp the plywood to a workbench using a bar clamp. Trace around the bottom of the bucket with a pencil. Then, cut the hole with a jigsaw. The bucket and other materials needed are available online or at most hardware stores. Purchase a new bucket or save old buckets used for other projects, such as mixing concrete. Save the wood circle you cut out. It’s meant to be the target for the dunk tank. If you don’t have a jigsaw, you could simply use a square piece of plywood for the target. You could also use another type of material. The size of the target can also vary, so adjust it as you would like! 1-3. Block the overflow valve on a toilet flusher float valve. Assemble the flusher, then locate the overflow valve sticking out of the top. It is a big pipe, usually black, that opens the flapper when the water reaches a certain level. It will stop your dunk tank from working correctly, so stick a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) PVC cap into it. Use a silicone adhesive to keep the cap inside the pipe. Check online or at hardware stores for flusher valve kits. It is the same product used in a toilet’s tank to control the water flow. The PVC cap and adhesive are also available there. If the dunk tank spills water on its own, it’s because of the overflow valve. Make sure it is plugged to prevent this from happening. 1-4. Cut a hole through the center of the bucket for the valve. Use a 3 ⁄4 in (8.3 cm) hole saw to make a neat hole. Keep the bucket firmly on the ground with the bottom up as you cut through it. When you’re done, position the valve in it to make sure it fits. Hole saws are designed to cut perfect circles into surfaces like the bucket you’re using. Check hardware stores to see if you can purchase or even rent one. If you don’t have one, try using an alternative, like another type of saw or a utility knife. Leaking is a common problem, so consider spreading a silicone sealant around the edges of the flapper. Flappers usually come with a rubber gasket meant to protect against leaks. Twist it onto the bottom part of the flapper emerging from the bucket if you wish. 1-5. Drill a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) hole through the side of the bucket. Measure down about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the top of the bucket. Mark the spot and drill through it. You only have to make a hole on one side of the bucket. After making it, use a utility knife as needed to scrape away any remaining sharp edges around the hole. Create the hole using a power drill. They are available, along with the proper drill bit, online or at hardware stores. The exact size of the hole will vary depending on what kind of float valve you use. For accuracy, purchase the float valve first, then make the hole big enough to match it. 1-6. Fit the float valve through the hole in the bucket. Position the valve so it is inside the bucket. If you’re having trouble getting it to stay in position, slide it onto a stainless steel float valve rod purchased separately. Get a rod that’s about 3 in (7.6 cm) long and ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter. Then, set a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hose adapter on the end of the valve, turning it clockwise to tighten it. Most hardware stores carry float valve rods and hose adapters if you need them. The valve is meant to connect hold the valve in place while connecting it to the adapter, which you can use to fill the bucket with water. The valve will cause the bucket to tip over when someone hits the target. The hose adapter is a way to quickly refill the bucket by using the valve. Many valve kits come with silicone sealant. Try spreading some of the silicone sealant around the installed valve to prevent it from leaking. 1-7. Screw the float ball into the valve. The float ball connects to the part of the valve inside the bucket. It will have a metal rod the plugs into a hole on the valve. Look for a small nut on the side of the valve that you can turn clockwise by hand to secure the float ball. The float ball is often included with the float valve if you buy a kit. These parts can be purchased separately online or at many hardware stores. The float ball is a round piece of plastic that helps the valve open up properly so it dumps water onto any unsuspecting person below it. The float ball and valve are the same components used in toilets. If you need an example of how the ball fits on the valve, look inside the tank on the back of a toilet in your home. 2. Assembling the Dumping Mechanism 2-1. Purchase and cut PVC pipes to build the dumping mechanism. Use a hacksaw for a straightforward way to slice the pipes up to the length needed for the design. If you have a miter box, you could also put the pipes in the box to hold them in place. Another option is to bring the measurements with you to a hardware store when you buy the pipes to see if someone will them for you. To build the mechanism, you need pipes listed with a width times height of: A pair of pipes 2 in × 1 ⁄8 in (5.1 cm × 3.5 cm). A 1 ⁄2 in × 8 ⁄8 in (3.8 cm × 21.3 cm) pipe. A 1 ⁄2 in × 10 in (3.8 cm × 25.4 cm) pipe. A 2 in × 19 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 49.5 cm) pipe. A 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC tee. A ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) coupling. A 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 45-degree elbow joint. A 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 90-degree elbow joint. 2-2. Fit the 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) pipes into the tee. The tee is just a T-shaped connector, so it’s not too tough to deal with. The cut pipe lengths fit directly inside the opposing ends of the tee. Push them all the way in until they are flush with the tee. Take your time to ensure the pipes are positioned correctly. Consider setting up all the pipes first, then cementing them together once you’re sure they are in the right place. 2-3. Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe and elbow through the tee. Start by placing a 45-degree elbow joint on one end of the pipe. Then, slide the pipe all the way through the tee. Make sure the elbow joint is up against the tee. Mark the opposite end of the pipe about 1 in (2.5 cm) past where it emerges from the other end of the tee. The 45-degree elbow joint is a connecting piece designed to join straight pipes together at an angle. The extra length at the end is needed to connect this component to the rest of the mechanism. 2-4. Cut the long pipe according to the spot you marked earlier. Fit the pipe into a miter box or clamp to hold it still. Then, cut off the excess length. Smooth the cut as needed with a utility knife to eliminate any sharp edges. Order a miter box online or at a hardware store if you plan on using one. The box holds the PVC pipes in place while you cut it with a saw. You could gently sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth them out. Be careful around any cut pipes that feel sharp. 2-5. Spread some PVC cement on the exposed end of the pipe. Select PVC cement to ensure the connections are as strong and waterproof as you can make them. PVC cement generally comes with an applicator brush you can use to spread the product around the opening of the pipe. The glue goes on the outside of the exposed pipe, since you will be putting a connector over it. PVC cement is a special kind of glue used to ensure PVC pipes stick together and stay waterproof. It’s usually sold in buckets at hardware stores. Make sure the pipe is clean before applying the cement. Dirt and moisture could prevent it from working properly. 2-6. Place a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) coupling on the end of the pipe. A coupling is a small piece of PVC that joins other pipes together. Position it on the end of the tee opposite from the 45-degree elbow joint. Make sure it is also flush with the end of the tee. Pick up at least 1 PVC coupling when you purchase the PVC pipes you need. It’s important for hooking straight pipes to one another. Make sure you are able to rotate the pipe freely inside the tee without having it slide out. It’s necessary for the dumping mechanism to work properly. 2-7. Set an 8 ⁄2 in (22 cm) pipe and elbow on the coupling. Select a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe for this component. Add cement to the outside, then slide the pipe into the coupling. Then, put a 90-degree elbow joint on the end of that pipe. Turn the elbow so it faces away from you. The 90-degree elbow is a connecting piece like the 45-degree one, but it joins pipes at less of a steep angle. That makes it useful for arranging pipes in a square or another consistent formation. Arrange the pipes so the opening of the 45-degree elbow faces downward. If you plan on adjusting it later, wait to add the cement until you’re sure you have all the pipes positioned correctly. 2-8. Position a 10 in (25 cm) pipe on the 90-degree elbow. Use a pipe that is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in diameter. Add glue to the end, then push it as far as you can into the elbow. Twist it clockwise until it is tightly in place. 2-9. Secure a long pipe to the bottom of the tee. Finish the mechanism by plugging a 19 ⁄2 in (50 cm)-long pipe into the tee. Use a PVC pipe with a diameter of 2 in (5.1 cm), the same as the tee’s opening. Add cement to secure the pipe in place. 3. Creating the Dunk Tank Frame 3-1. Purchase and cut additional PVC for the frame. The simplest way to build the frame is with PVC, although you could also use wood. PVC is easy to plug in and glue together. It’s also sturdier and easier to take apart than wood. You will need: 4 2 in × 60 in (5.1 cm × 152.4 cm) pipes. 7 {2 in × 30 in (5.1 cm × 76.2 cm) pipes. 4 2 in × 13 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 34.3 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 10 in (5.1 cm × 25.4 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 1 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 3.8 cm) pipes. 3-2. Build the base of the frame out of the 3 in (7.6 cm) pipes. The dunk tank’s frame is essentially a cage built out of PVC. To build the base, arrange the pipes in a square. Plug the ends of each pipe into 3-way PVC elbow joints. Use cement to secure the pipes together. A 3-way elbow joint is very similar to a tee, but the openings are set at different angles. Tees are good for joining parallel pipes, but 3-ways are better for joining ones placed perpendicularly. Keep the PVC pipes positioned at 90-degree angles so the base forms a perfect square. Position the connecting joints so the free ends are face up. 3-3. Fit the 60 in (150 cm) pipes into the elbows on the base. If you plan on taking the tank apart, don’t add cement to these pipes. These pipes will form the middle part of the tank, which will connect the base to the top platform holding the bucket of water. The length of these pipes can be adjusted if you need to change the height of the tank. Make sure these pipes fit well into the elbow joints. They need to stand up straight to stabilize the tank’s top platform. 3-4. Glue 3-way elbow joints to the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes. You will basically make a second frame, but this one is a little more complicated than the one used for the base. Don’t glue all of the pipes and connectors together yet. Instead, arrange the pipes in a square first. Then, secure the left and right pipes to the elbow joints. Turn the elbow joints so the free end faces downward. Those openings will line up with the pipes on the rest of the tank. 3-5. Create a top frame using several pipes and a tee. Place a 30 in (76 cm) pipe between the connecting joints on the right side of the frame. For the opposite side, slide a pair of 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes into the connecting joints. Place a T-shaped connector between them and cement everything together. You need the tee to set up some pipes in the center in order to hold the bucket and flushing mechanism. Don’t glue the frame pipes together without adding the tee first! Rotate the tee so the open end points upward. This is where you will attach the dunking mechanism later. 3-6. Secure 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes to the joints. Position these pipes along the upper and lower ends of the frame. For consistency, glue them to the connecting joints on the right. This side will be the front part of the frame. 3-7. Attach 10 in (25 cm) pipes to the left end of the frame. Take 2 of the pipes and fit them into the open ends of the connecting joints on the left. Glue them in place as well. These pipes will be used to form the back part of the frame. These pipes are shorter than the ones on the right side so you can fit elbow joints on the frame. It is necessary to create a platform for the dumping mechanism. 3-8. Complete the outer edge of the frame with pipes and tees. Slide a T-shaped connector onto the end of each of the frame points. You will need 4 tees in total, 2 for the upper and lower end of the frame. Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe between each joint. Then, use cement to bond all of the pipes and connectors. Position the tees so the open end points toward the center of the dunk tank. This part will be used to make a platform for the bucket. 3-9. Cement the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes between the tees. Place the pipes in the center of the frame. Run a pipe from a tee on the top part of the frame to one on the bottom. Make sure everything is flush and well-connected before you allow the PVC cement to dry. Adjust the pipes as needed before the cement dries. It makes them difficult to disconnect, so don’t cement anything you plan on taking apart. 3-10. Set the top frame onto the rest of the dunk tank to complete it. The top frame fits onto the cage like the bottom frame did. Use the 3-way corner joints to position the frame. The exposed openings in the joints fits right on top of the long pipes used for the body of the tank. You don’t need to glue the frame to the long pipes. If you plan on taking apart the tank for storage, don’t glue them. However, check the frame to make sure it’s stable on top of the tank. 4. Connecting the Target and Mechanism 4-1. Place the bucket and dunking mechanism on top of the tank. Set the long pipe from the dunking mechanism into the tee on the top frame. Cement it in place to secure it. Next, position the bucket over the small pipes in the center of the frame. Rotate it so the flapper valve faces the overhanging pipe on the dunking mechanism. Make sure the bucket is stable on the frame and has plenty of room to dump water on the person sitting below it. The water will spill through the gap in the pipes on the frame. 4-2. Connect the target to the tank with a pair of screws. Position the target so it is on the front side of the long pipe used to make the dunking mechanism. To attach it, use 2 strips of a metal plumber’s tape. Screw ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) galvanized screws through the holes in the tape or clamps. Position a screw on each end of the tape where it connects to the wood, then place another screw directly in the middle of the tape and through the pipe. Look for plumber’s tape online or at a nearby hardware store. The screws will likely be available there too. Plumber’s tape is very easy to use and it already has holes in it to help you position the screws. You could also use or 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe clamps instead. 4-3. Install screw eyes on the bucket and dumping mechanism. Drill a or ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) pipe clamps hole through the top edge of the bucket near the valve you installed earlier. Make a second hole underneath the arm of the dumping mechanism that hangs over the bucket. Then, twist a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) eye screw clockwise into each hole. The screw eyes provide a spot to string the bucket to the dumping mechanism. They are basically screws with a circular opening on the end and are available at most hardware stores. 4-4. Tie a string between the eye screws and the flapper. Run a length of string from the flapper to the eye screw on the PVC pipe. Knot it to the flapper, then route the string first to the eye screw on the bucket. Pass it through the bucket’s screw before knotting it to the one on the PVC pipe. To ensure the string doesn’t break, you could also use a heavy fishing line or another type of material. Try getting a fishing line online, at a general store, or at a fishing supply shop. 4-5. Plug the hose into the adapter on the valve. Use a standard garden hose connected to a faucet near your home. To keep the hose in position, consider using plumber’s tape to secure it to the dunk tape’s frame. Once it is attached, you can turn on the water to start filling up the bucket! If you don’t have a garden hose, you can get one at most general stores or hardware stores. Give the dunk tank a test by throwing some 1 lb (450 g) bean bags at the target. If it’s set up correctly, the arm will pull up the flapper, causing water to spill onto anyone sitting inside the tank. Tips If you’re looking for a more traditional design, you could build a frame, then attach a hinged platform above it. However, using PVC pipe to build a basic frame is much simpler. With a dunk tank, the plumbing is the most important part. If one thing is off, then the water won’t flow correctly. Build the frame out of wood if you want something sturdier that doesn’t need to be taken apart. You can nail or screw the frame components together. Warnings Take proper safety precautions to avoid problems when cutting or gluing dunk tank components. Wear a dust mask and glasses, but also ventilate the area as much as possible.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:34", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Target and Pourer\\n1-1. Put on safety gear when cutting material for the tank.\\nAlways wear a dust mask and safety glasses for protection. Don’t wear long-sleeved clothing, jewelry, gloves, or anything else that could get caught in the saw blades. Also, keep other people out of the area until you’re done working.\\nBoth dust masks and safety glasses are available at most hardware stores.\\nTo reduce the mess left behind, work outdoors. If that isn’t possible, open up nearby doors and windows to ventilate some of the dust and fumes from the glue.\\nConsider vacuuming up any remaining dust after you have finished building the tank.\\n1-2. Use a bucket to outline and cut a hole in a piece of plywood.\\nSet a 5 US gal (19,000 mL) bucket on top of a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick piece of plywood. To keep the bucket steady, clamp the plywood to a workbench using a bar clamp. Trace around the bottom of the bucket with a pencil. Then, cut the hole with a jigsaw.\\nThe bucket and other materials needed are available online or at most hardware stores. Purchase a new bucket or save old buckets used for other projects, such as mixing concrete.\\nSave the wood circle you cut out. It’s meant to be the target for the dunk tank.\\nIf you don’t have a jigsaw, you could simply use a square piece of plywood for the target. You could also use another type of material. The size of the target can also vary, so adjust it as you would like!\\n1-3. Block the overflow valve on a toilet flusher float valve.\\nAssemble the flusher, then locate the overflow valve sticking out of the top. It is a big pipe, usually black, that opens the flapper when the water reaches a certain level. It will stop your dunk tank from working correctly, so stick a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) PVC cap into it. Use a silicone adhesive to keep the cap inside the pipe.\\nCheck online or at hardware stores for flusher valve kits. It is the same product used in a toilet’s tank to control the water flow. The PVC cap and adhesive are also available there.\\nIf the dunk tank spills water on its own, it’s because of the overflow valve. Make sure it is plugged to prevent this from happening.\\n1-4. Cut a hole through the center of the bucket for the valve.\\nUse a 3 ⁄4 in (8.3 cm) hole saw to make a neat hole. Keep the bucket firmly on the ground with the bottom up as you cut through it. When you’re done, position the valve in it to make sure it fits.\\nHole saws are designed to cut perfect circles into surfaces like the bucket you’re using. Check hardware stores to see if you can purchase or even rent one. If you don’t have one, try using an alternative, like another type of saw or a utility knife.\\nLeaking is a common problem, so consider spreading a silicone sealant around the edges of the flapper.\\nFlappers usually come with a rubber gasket meant to protect against leaks. Twist it onto the bottom part of the flapper emerging from the bucket if you wish.\\n1-5. Drill a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) hole through the side of the bucket.\\nMeasure down about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the top of the bucket. Mark the spot and drill through it. You only have to make a hole on one side of the bucket. After making it, use a utility knife as needed to scrape away any remaining sharp edges around the hole.\\nCreate the hole using a power drill. They are available, along with the proper drill bit, online or at hardware stores.\\nThe exact size of the hole will vary depending on what kind of float valve you use. For accuracy, purchase the float valve first, then make the hole big enough to match it.\\n1-6. Fit the float valve through the hole in the bucket.\\nPosition the valve so it is inside the bucket. If you’re having trouble getting it to stay in position, slide it onto a stainless steel float valve rod purchased separately. Get a rod that’s about 3 in (7.6 cm) long and ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter. Then, set a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hose adapter on the end of the valve, turning it clockwise to tighten it.\\nMost hardware stores carry float valve rods and hose adapters if you need them. The valve is meant to connect hold the valve in place while connecting it to the adapter, which you can use to fill the bucket with water.\\nThe valve will cause the bucket to tip over when someone hits the target. The hose adapter is a way to quickly refill the bucket by using the valve.\\nMany valve kits come with silicone sealant. Try spreading some of the silicone sealant around the installed valve to prevent it from leaking.\\n1-7. Screw the float ball into the valve.\\nThe float ball connects to the part of the valve inside the bucket. It will have a metal rod the plugs into a hole on the valve. Look for a small nut on the side of the valve that you can turn clockwise by hand to secure the float ball.\\nThe float ball is often included with the float valve if you buy a kit. These parts can be purchased separately online or at many hardware stores. The float ball is a round piece of plastic that helps the valve open up properly so it dumps water onto any unsuspecting person below it.\\nThe float ball and valve are the same components used in toilets. If you need an example of how the ball fits on the valve, look inside the tank on the back of a toilet in your home.\\n2. Assembling the Dumping Mechanism\\n2-1. Purchase and cut PVC pipes to build the dumping mechanism.\\nUse a hacksaw for a straightforward way to slice the pipes up to the length needed for the design. If you have a miter box, you could also put the pipes in the box to hold them in place. Another option is to bring the measurements with you to a hardware store when you buy the pipes to see if someone will them for you. To build the mechanism, you need pipes listed with a width times height of:\\nA pair of pipes 2 in × 1 ⁄8 in (5.1 cm × 3.5 cm).\\nA 1 ⁄2 in × 8 ⁄8 in (3.8 cm × 21.3 cm) pipe.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in × 10 in (3.8 cm × 25.4 cm) pipe.\\nA 2 in × 19 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 49.5 cm) pipe.\\nA 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC tee.\\nA ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) coupling.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 45-degree elbow joint.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 90-degree elbow joint.\\n2-2. Fit the 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) pipes into the tee.\\nThe tee is just a T-shaped connector, so it’s not too tough to deal with. The cut pipe lengths fit directly inside the opposing ends of the tee. Push them all the way in until they are flush with the tee.\\nTake your time to ensure the pipes are positioned correctly. Consider setting up all the pipes first, then cementing them together once you’re sure they are in the right place.\\n2-3. Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe and elbow through the tee.\\nStart by placing a 45-degree elbow joint on one end of the pipe. Then, slide the pipe all the way through the tee. Make sure the elbow joint is up against the tee. Mark the opposite end of the pipe about 1 in (2.5 cm) past where it emerges from the other end of the tee.\\nThe 45-degree elbow joint is a connecting piece designed to join straight pipes together at an angle.\\nThe extra length at the end is needed to connect this component to the rest of the mechanism.\\n2-4. Cut the long pipe according to the spot you marked earlier.\\nFit the pipe into a miter box or clamp to hold it still. Then, cut off the excess length. Smooth the cut as needed with a utility knife to eliminate any sharp edges.\\nOrder a miter box online or at a hardware store if you plan on using one. The box holds the PVC pipes in place while you cut it with a saw.\\nYou could gently sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth them out. Be careful around any cut pipes that feel sharp.\\n2-5. Spread some PVC cement on the exposed end of the pipe.\\nSelect PVC cement to ensure the connections are as strong and waterproof as you can make them. PVC cement generally comes with an applicator brush you can use to spread the product around the opening of the pipe. The glue goes on the outside of the exposed pipe, since you will be putting a connector over it.\\nPVC cement is a special kind of glue used to ensure PVC pipes stick together and stay waterproof. It’s usually sold in buckets at hardware stores.\\nMake sure the pipe is clean before applying the cement. Dirt and moisture could prevent it from working properly.\\n2-6. Place a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) coupling on the end of the pipe.\\nA coupling is a small piece of PVC that joins other pipes together. Position it on the end of the tee opposite from the 45-degree elbow joint. Make sure it is also flush with the end of the tee.\\nPick up at least 1 PVC coupling when you purchase the PVC pipes you need. It’s important for hooking straight pipes to one another.\\nMake sure you are able to rotate the pipe freely inside the tee without having it slide out. It’s necessary for the dumping mechanism to work properly.\\n2-7. Set an 8 ⁄2 in (22 cm) pipe and elbow on the coupling.\\nSelect a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe for this component. Add cement to the outside, then slide the pipe into the coupling. Then, put a 90-degree elbow joint on the end of that pipe. Turn the elbow so it faces away from you.\\nThe 90-degree elbow is a connecting piece like the 45-degree one, but it joins pipes at less of a steep angle. That makes it useful for arranging pipes in a square or another consistent formation.\\nArrange the pipes so the opening of the 45-degree elbow faces downward. If you plan on adjusting it later, wait to add the cement until you’re sure you have all the pipes positioned correctly.\\n2-8. Position a 10 in (25 cm) pipe on the 90-degree elbow.\\nUse a pipe that is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in diameter. Add glue to the end, then push it as far as you can into the elbow. Twist it clockwise until it is tightly in place.\\n2-9. Secure a long pipe to the bottom of the tee.\\nFinish the mechanism by plugging a 19 ⁄2 in (50 cm)-long pipe into the tee. Use a PVC pipe with a diameter of 2 in (5.1 cm), the same as the tee’s opening. Add cement to secure the pipe in place.\\n3. Creating the Dunk Tank Frame\\n3-1. Purchase and cut additional PVC for the frame.\\nThe simplest way to build the frame is with PVC, although you could also use wood. PVC is easy to plug in and glue together. It’s also sturdier and easier to take apart than wood. You will need:\\n4 2 in × 60 in (5.1 cm × 152.4 cm) pipes.\\n7 {2 in × 30 in (5.1 cm × 76.2 cm) pipes.\\n4 2 in × 13 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 34.3 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 10 in (5.1 cm × 25.4 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 1 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 3.8 cm) pipes.\\n3-2. Build the base of the frame out of the 3 in (7.6 cm) pipes.\\nThe dunk tank’s frame is essentially a cage built out of PVC. To build the base, arrange the pipes in a square. Plug the ends of each pipe into 3-way PVC elbow joints. Use cement to secure the pipes together.\\nA 3-way elbow joint is very similar to a tee, but the openings are set at different angles. Tees are good for joining parallel pipes, but 3-ways are better for joining ones placed perpendicularly.\\nKeep the PVC pipes positioned at 90-degree angles so the base forms a perfect square. Position the connecting joints so the free ends are face up.\\n3-3. Fit the 60 in (150 cm) pipes into the elbows on the base.\\nIf you plan on taking the tank apart, don’t add cement to these pipes. These pipes will form the middle part of the tank, which will connect the base to the top platform holding the bucket of water. The length of these pipes can be adjusted if you need to change the height of the tank.\\nMake sure these pipes fit well into the elbow joints. They need to stand up straight to stabilize the tank’s top platform.\\n3-4. Glue 3-way elbow joints to the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes.\\nYou will basically make a second frame, but this one is a little more complicated than the one used for the base. Don’t glue all of the pipes and connectors together yet. Instead, arrange the pipes in a square first. Then, secure the left and right pipes to the elbow joints.\\nTurn the elbow joints so the free end faces downward. Those openings will line up with the pipes on the rest of the tank.\\n3-5. Create a top frame using several pipes and a tee.\\nPlace a 30 in (76 cm) pipe between the connecting joints on the right side of the frame. For the opposite side, slide a pair of 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes into the connecting joints. Place a T-shaped connector between them and cement everything together.\\nYou need the tee to set up some pipes in the center in order to hold the bucket and flushing mechanism. Don’t glue the frame pipes together without adding the tee first!\\nRotate the tee so the open end points upward. This is where you will attach the dunking mechanism later.\\n3-6. Secure 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes to the joints.\\nPosition these pipes along the upper and lower ends of the frame. For consistency, glue them to the connecting joints on the right. This side will be the front part of the frame.\\n3-7. Attach 10 in (25 cm) pipes to the left end of the frame.\\nTake 2 of the pipes and fit them into the open ends of the connecting joints on the left. Glue them in place as well. These pipes will be used to form the back part of the frame.\\nThese pipes are shorter than the ones on the right side so you can fit elbow joints on the frame. It is necessary to create a platform for the dumping mechanism.\\n3-8. Complete the outer edge of the frame with pipes and tees.\\nSlide a T-shaped connector onto the end of each of the frame points. You will need 4 tees in total, 2 for the upper and lower end of the frame. Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe between each joint. Then, use cement to bond all of the pipes and connectors.\\nPosition the tees so the open end points toward the center of the dunk tank. This part will be used to make a platform for the bucket.\\n3-9. Cement the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes between the tees.\\nPlace the pipes in the center of the frame. Run a pipe from a tee on the top part of the frame to one on the bottom. Make sure everything is flush and well-connected before you allow the PVC cement to dry.\\nAdjust the pipes as needed before the cement dries. It makes them difficult to disconnect, so don’t cement anything you plan on taking apart.\\n3-10. Set the top frame onto the rest of the dunk tank to complete it.\\nThe top frame fits onto the cage like the bottom frame did. Use the 3-way corner joints to position the frame. The exposed openings in the joints fits right on top of the long pipes used for the body of the tank.\\nYou don’t need to glue the frame to the long pipes. If you plan on taking apart the tank for storage, don’t glue them. However, check the frame to make sure it’s stable on top of the tank.\\n4. Connecting the Target and Mechanism\\n4-1. Place the bucket and dunking mechanism on top of the tank.\\nSet the long pipe from the dunking mechanism into the tee on the top frame. Cement it in place to secure it. Next, position the bucket over the small pipes in the center of the frame. Rotate it so the flapper valve faces the overhanging pipe on the dunking mechanism.\\nMake sure the bucket is stable on the frame and has plenty of room to dump water on the person sitting below it. The water will spill through the gap in the pipes on the frame.\\n4-2. Connect the target to the tank with a pair of screws.\\nPosition the target so it is on the front side of the long pipe used to make the dunking mechanism. To attach it, use 2 strips of a metal plumber’s tape. Screw ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) galvanized screws through the holes in the tape or clamps. Position a screw on each end of the tape where it connects to the wood, then place another screw directly in the middle of the tape and through the pipe.\\nLook for plumber’s tape online or at a nearby hardware store. The screws will likely be available there too.\\nPlumber’s tape is very easy to use and it already has holes in it to help you position the screws. You could also use or 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe clamps instead.\\n4-3. Install screw eyes on the bucket and dumping mechanism.\\nDrill a or ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) pipe clamps hole through the top edge of the bucket near the valve you installed earlier. Make a second hole underneath the arm of the dumping mechanism that hangs over the bucket. Then, twist a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) eye screw clockwise into each hole.\\nThe screw eyes provide a spot to string the bucket to the dumping mechanism. They are basically screws with a circular opening on the end and are available at most hardware stores.\\n4-4. Tie a string between the eye screws and the flapper.\\nRun a length of string from the flapper to the eye screw on the PVC pipe. Knot it to the flapper, then route the string first to the eye screw on the bucket. Pass it through the bucket’s screw before knotting it to the one on the PVC pipe.\\nTo ensure the string doesn’t break, you could also use a heavy fishing line or another type of material. Try getting a fishing line online, at a general store, or at a fishing supply shop.\\n4-5. Plug the hose into the adapter on the valve.\\nUse a standard garden hose connected to a faucet near your home. To keep the hose in position, consider using plumber’s tape to secure it to the dunk tape’s frame. Once it is attached, you can turn on the water to start filling up the bucket!\\nIf you don’t have a garden hose, you can get one at most general stores or hardware stores.\\nGive the dunk tank a test by throwing some 1 lb (450 g) bean bags at the target. If it’s set up correctly, the arm will pull up the flapper, causing water to spill onto anyone sitting inside the tank.\\nTips\\nIf you’re looking for a more traditional design, you could build a frame, then attach a hinged platform above it. However, using PVC pipe to build a basic frame is much simpler.\\nWith a dunk tank, the plumbing is the most important part. If one thing is off, then the water won’t flow correctly.\\nBuild the frame out of wood if you want something sturdier that doesn’t need to be taken apart. You can nail or screw the frame components together.\\nWarnings\\nTake proper safety precautions to avoid problems when cutting or gluing dunk tank components. Wear a dust mask and glasses, but also ventilate the area as much as possible.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you’re looking for a fun summertime project that you can bring to parties, make your own dunk tank. While you can rent one or purchase a kit, you could also make your own for a fraction of the cost. The easiest way to do it is by using PVC pipe. Assembling a dunk tank doesn’t require much experience with DIY projects, although it involves sawing and cementing the pipes together. When you’re done, sit under the bucket and watch the water pour out when someone hits the target!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Target and Pourer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put on safety gear when cutting material for the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses for protection. Don’t wear long-sleeved clothing, jewelry, gloves, or anything else that could get caught in the saw blades. Also, keep other people out of the area until you’re done working.\\nBoth dust masks and safety glasses are available at most hardware stores.\\nTo reduce the mess left behind, work outdoors. If that isn’t possible, open up nearby doors and windows to ventilate some of the dust and fumes from the glue.\\nConsider vacuuming up any remaining dust after you have finished building the tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a bucket to outline and cut a hole in a piece of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Set a 5 US gal (19,000 mL) bucket on top of a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm)-thick piece of plywood. To keep the bucket steady, clamp the plywood to a workbench using a bar clamp. Trace around the bottom of the bucket with a pencil. Then, cut the hole with a jigsaw.\\nThe bucket and other materials needed are available online or at most hardware stores. Purchase a new bucket or save old buckets used for other projects, such as mixing concrete.\\nSave the wood circle you cut out. It’s meant to be the target for the dunk tank.\\nIf you don’t have a jigsaw, you could simply use a square piece of plywood for the target. You could also use another type of material. The size of the target can also vary, so adjust it as you would like!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Block the overflow valve on a toilet flusher float valve.\", \"描述\": \"Assemble the flusher, then locate the overflow valve sticking out of the top. It is a big pipe, usually black, that opens the flapper when the water reaches a certain level. It will stop your dunk tank from working correctly, so stick a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) PVC cap into it. Use a silicone adhesive to keep the cap inside the pipe.\\nCheck online or at hardware stores for flusher valve kits. It is the same product used in a toilet’s tank to control the water flow. The PVC cap and adhesive are also available there.\\nIf the dunk tank spills water on its own, it’s because of the overflow valve. Make sure it is plugged to prevent this from happening.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut a hole through the center of the bucket for the valve.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 3 ⁄4 in (8.3 cm) hole saw to make a neat hole. Keep the bucket firmly on the ground with the bottom up as you cut through it. When you’re done, position the valve in it to make sure it fits.\\nHole saws are designed to cut perfect circles into surfaces like the bucket you’re using. Check hardware stores to see if you can purchase or even rent one. If you don’t have one, try using an alternative, like another type of saw or a utility knife.\\nLeaking is a common problem, so consider spreading a silicone sealant around the edges of the flapper.\\nFlappers usually come with a rubber gasket meant to protect against leaks. Twist it onto the bottom part of the flapper emerging from the bucket if you wish.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Drill a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) hole through the side of the bucket.\", \"描述\": \"Measure down about 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) from the top of the bucket. Mark the spot and drill through it. You only have to make a hole on one side of the bucket. After making it, use a utility knife as needed to scrape away any remaining sharp edges around the hole.\\nCreate the hole using a power drill. They are available, along with the proper drill bit, online or at hardware stores.\\nThe exact size of the hole will vary depending on what kind of float valve you use. For accuracy, purchase the float valve first, then make the hole big enough to match it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fit the float valve through the hole in the bucket.\", \"描述\": \"Position the valve so it is inside the bucket. If you’re having trouble getting it to stay in position, slide it onto a stainless steel float valve rod purchased separately. Get a rod that’s about 3 in (7.6 cm) long and ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter. Then, set a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hose adapter on the end of the valve, turning it clockwise to tighten it.\\nMost hardware stores carry float valve rods and hose adapters if you need them. The valve is meant to connect hold the valve in place while connecting it to the adapter, which you can use to fill the bucket with water.\\nThe valve will cause the bucket to tip over when someone hits the target. The hose adapter is a way to quickly refill the bucket by using the valve.\\nMany valve kits come with silicone sealant. Try spreading some of the silicone sealant around the installed valve to prevent it from leaking.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Screw the float ball into the valve.\", \"描述\": \"The float ball connects to the part of the valve inside the bucket. It will have a metal rod the plugs into a hole on the valve. Look for a small nut on the side of the valve that you can turn clockwise by hand to secure the float ball.\\nThe float ball is often included with the float valve if you buy a kit. These parts can be purchased separately online or at many hardware stores. The float ball is a round piece of plastic that helps the valve open up properly so it dumps water onto any unsuspecting person below it.\\nThe float ball and valve are the same components used in toilets. If you need an example of how the ball fits on the valve, look inside the tank on the back of a toilet in your home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Dumping Mechanism\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase and cut PVC pipes to build the dumping mechanism.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hacksaw for a straightforward way to slice the pipes up to the length needed for the design. If you have a miter box, you could also put the pipes in the box to hold them in place. Another option is to bring the measurements with you to a hardware store when you buy the pipes to see if someone will them for you. To build the mechanism, you need pipes listed with a width times height of:\\nA pair of pipes 2 in × 1 ⁄8 in (5.1 cm × 3.5 cm).\\nA 1 ⁄2 in × 8 ⁄8 in (3.8 cm × 21.3 cm) pipe.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in × 10 in (3.8 cm × 25.4 cm) pipe.\\nA 2 in × 19 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 49.5 cm) pipe.\\nA 2 in (5.1 cm) PVC tee.\\nA ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) coupling.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 45-degree elbow joint.\\nA 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) 90-degree elbow joint.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fit the 1 ⁄8 in (3.5 cm) pipes into the tee.\", \"描述\": \"The tee is just a T-shaped connector, so it’s not too tough to deal with. The cut pipe lengths fit directly inside the opposing ends of the tee. Push them all the way in until they are flush with the tee.\\nTake your time to ensure the pipes are positioned correctly. Consider setting up all the pipes first, then cementing them together once you’re sure they are in the right place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe and elbow through the tee.\", \"描述\": \"Start by placing a 45-degree elbow joint on one end of the pipe. Then, slide the pipe all the way through the tee. Make sure the elbow joint is up against the tee. Mark the opposite end of the pipe about 1 in (2.5 cm) past where it emerges from the other end of the tee.\\nThe 45-degree elbow joint is a connecting piece designed to join straight pipes together at an angle.\\nThe extra length at the end is needed to connect this component to the rest of the mechanism.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the long pipe according to the spot you marked earlier.\", \"描述\": \"Fit the pipe into a miter box or clamp to hold it still. Then, cut off the excess length. Smooth the cut as needed with a utility knife to eliminate any sharp edges.\\nOrder a miter box online or at a hardware store if you plan on using one. The box holds the PVC pipes in place while you cut it with a saw.\\nYou could gently sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth them out. Be careful around any cut pipes that feel sharp.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Spread some PVC cement on the exposed end of the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Select PVC cement to ensure the connections are as strong and waterproof as you can make them. PVC cement generally comes with an applicator brush you can use to spread the product around the opening of the pipe. The glue goes on the outside of the exposed pipe, since you will be putting a connector over it.\\nPVC cement is a special kind of glue used to ensure PVC pipes stick together and stay waterproof. It’s usually sold in buckets at hardware stores.\\nMake sure the pipe is clean before applying the cement. Dirt and moisture could prevent it from working properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) coupling on the end of the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"A coupling is a small piece of PVC that joins other pipes together. Position it on the end of the tee opposite from the 45-degree elbow joint. Make sure it is also flush with the end of the tee.\\nPick up at least 1 PVC coupling when you purchase the PVC pipes you need. It’s important for hooking straight pipes to one another.\\nMake sure you are able to rotate the pipe freely inside the tee without having it slide out. It’s necessary for the dumping mechanism to work properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Set an 8 ⁄2 in (22 cm) pipe and elbow on the coupling.\", \"描述\": \"Select a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe for this component. Add cement to the outside, then slide the pipe into the coupling. Then, put a 90-degree elbow joint on the end of that pipe. Turn the elbow so it faces away from you.\\nThe 90-degree elbow is a connecting piece like the 45-degree one, but it joins pipes at less of a steep angle. That makes it useful for arranging pipes in a square or another consistent formation.\\nArrange the pipes so the opening of the 45-degree elbow faces downward. If you plan on adjusting it later, wait to add the cement until you’re sure you have all the pipes positioned correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Position a 10 in (25 cm) pipe on the 90-degree elbow.\", \"描述\": \"Use a pipe that is 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) in diameter. Add glue to the end, then push it as far as you can into the elbow. Twist it clockwise until it is tightly in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Secure a long pipe to the bottom of the tee.\", \"描述\": \"Finish the mechanism by plugging a 19 ⁄2 in (50 cm)-long pipe into the tee. Use a PVC pipe with a diameter of 2 in (5.1 cm), the same as the tee’s opening. Add cement to secure the pipe in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating the Dunk Tank Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase and cut additional PVC for the frame.\", \"描述\": \"The simplest way to build the frame is with PVC, although you could also use wood. PVC is easy to plug in and glue together. It’s also sturdier and easier to take apart than wood. You will need:\\n4 2 in × 60 in (5.1 cm × 152.4 cm) pipes.\\n7 {2 in × 30 in (5.1 cm × 76.2 cm) pipes.\\n4 2 in × 13 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 34.3 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 10 in (5.1 cm × 25.4 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) pipes.\\n2 2 in × 1 ⁄2 in (5.1 cm × 3.8 cm) pipes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the base of the frame out of the 3 in (7.6 cm) pipes.\", \"描述\": \"The dunk tank’s frame is essentially a cage built out of PVC. To build the base, arrange the pipes in a square. Plug the ends of each pipe into 3-way PVC elbow joints. Use cement to secure the pipes together.\\nA 3-way elbow joint is very similar to a tee, but the openings are set at different angles. Tees are good for joining parallel pipes, but 3-ways are better for joining ones placed perpendicularly.\\nKeep the PVC pipes positioned at 90-degree angles so the base forms a perfect square. Position the connecting joints so the free ends are face up.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fit the 60 in (150 cm) pipes into the elbows on the base.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on taking the tank apart, don’t add cement to these pipes. These pipes will form the middle part of the tank, which will connect the base to the top platform holding the bucket of water. The length of these pipes can be adjusted if you need to change the height of the tank.\\nMake sure these pipes fit well into the elbow joints. They need to stand up straight to stabilize the tank’s top platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Glue 3-way elbow joints to the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes.\", \"描述\": \"You will basically make a second frame, but this one is a little more complicated than the one used for the base. Don’t glue all of the pipes and connectors together yet. Instead, arrange the pipes in a square first. Then, secure the left and right pipes to the elbow joints.\\nTurn the elbow joints so the free end faces downward. Those openings will line up with the pipes on the rest of the tank.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create a top frame using several pipes and a tee.\", \"描述\": \"Place a 30 in (76 cm) pipe between the connecting joints on the right side of the frame. For the opposite side, slide a pair of 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes into the connecting joints. Place a T-shaped connector between them and cement everything together.\\nYou need the tee to set up some pipes in the center in order to hold the bucket and flushing mechanism. Don’t glue the frame pipes together without adding the tee first!\\nRotate the tee so the open end points upward. This is where you will attach the dunking mechanism later.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure 13 ⁄2 in (34 cm) pipes to the joints.\", \"描述\": \"Position these pipes along the upper and lower ends of the frame. For consistency, glue them to the connecting joints on the right. This side will be the front part of the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach 10 in (25 cm) pipes to the left end of the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Take 2 of the pipes and fit them into the open ends of the connecting joints on the left. Glue them in place as well. These pipes will be used to form the back part of the frame.\\nThese pipes are shorter than the ones on the right side so you can fit elbow joints on the frame. It is necessary to create a platform for the dumping mechanism.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Complete the outer edge of the frame with pipes and tees.\", \"描述\": \"Slide a T-shaped connector onto the end of each of the frame points. You will need 4 tees in total, 2 for the upper and lower end of the frame. Slide a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe between each joint. Then, use cement to bond all of the pipes and connectors.\\nPosition the tees so the open end points toward the center of the dunk tank. This part will be used to make a platform for the bucket.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Cement the remaining 30 in (76 cm) pipes between the tees.\", \"描述\": \"Place the pipes in the center of the frame. Run a pipe from a tee on the top part of the frame to one on the bottom. Make sure everything is flush and well-connected before you allow the PVC cement to dry.\\nAdjust the pipes as needed before the cement dries. It makes them difficult to disconnect, so don’t cement anything you plan on taking apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Set the top frame onto the rest of the dunk tank to complete it.\", \"描述\": \"The top frame fits onto the cage like the bottom frame did. Use the 3-way corner joints to position the frame. The exposed openings in the joints fits right on top of the long pipes used for the body of the tank.\\nYou don’t need to glue the frame to the long pipes. If you plan on taking apart the tank for storage, don’t glue them. However, check the frame to make sure it’s stable on top of the tank.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connecting the Target and Mechanism\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the bucket and dunking mechanism on top of the tank.\", \"描述\": \"Set the long pipe from the dunking mechanism into the tee on the top frame. Cement it in place to secure it. Next, position the bucket over the small pipes in the center of the frame. Rotate it so the flapper valve faces the overhanging pipe on the dunking mechanism.\\nMake sure the bucket is stable on the frame and has plenty of room to dump water on the person sitting below it. The water will spill through the gap in the pipes on the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the target to the tank with a pair of screws.\", \"描述\": \"Position the target so it is on the front side of the long pipe used to make the dunking mechanism. To attach it, use 2 strips of a metal plumber’s tape. Screw ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) galvanized screws through the holes in the tape or clamps. Position a screw on each end of the tape where it connects to the wood, then place another screw directly in the middle of the tape and through the pipe.\\nLook for plumber’s tape online or at a nearby hardware store. The screws will likely be available there too.\\nPlumber’s tape is very easy to use and it already has holes in it to help you position the screws. You could also use or 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) pipe clamps instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install screw eyes on the bucket and dumping mechanism.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a or ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) pipe clamps hole through the top edge of the bucket near the valve you installed earlier. Make a second hole underneath the arm of the dumping mechanism that hangs over the bucket. Then, twist a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) eye screw clockwise into each hole.\\nThe screw eyes provide a spot to string the bucket to the dumping mechanism. They are basically screws with a circular opening on the end and are available at most hardware stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie a string between the eye screws and the flapper.\", \"描述\": \"Run a length of string from the flapper to the eye screw on the PVC pipe. Knot it to the flapper, then route the string first to the eye screw on the bucket. Pass it through the bucket’s screw before knotting it to the one on the PVC pipe.\\nTo ensure the string doesn’t break, you could also use a heavy fishing line or another type of material. Try getting a fishing line online, at a general store, or at a fishing supply shop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plug the hose into the adapter on the valve.\", \"描述\": \"Use a standard garden hose connected to a faucet near your home. To keep the hose in position, consider using plumber’s tape to secure it to the dunk tape’s frame. Once it is attached, you can turn on the water to start filling up the bucket!\\nIf you don’t have a garden hose, you can get one at most general stores or hardware stores.\\nGive the dunk tank a test by throwing some 1 lb (450 g) bean bags at the target. If it’s set up correctly, the arm will pull up the flapper, causing water to spill onto anyone sitting inside the tank.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you’re looking for a more traditional design, you could build a frame, then attach a hinged platform above it. However, using PVC pipe to build a basic frame is much simpler.\\n\", \"With a dunk tank, the plumbing is the most important part. If one thing is off, then the water won’t flow correctly.\\n\", \"Build the frame out of wood if you want something sturdier that doesn’t need to be taken apart. You can nail or screw the frame components together.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Take proper safety precautions to avoid problems when cutting or gluing dunk tank components. Wear a dust mask and glasses, but also ventilate the area as much as possible.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,334
How to Build a Dynamic Website
1. Steps 1-1. Get your brain around what kinds of tools and processes will accomplish your goals. Because the very central core of any dynamic web presence is its database and processing of data, our first vital goal is to make a far-reaching decision on a database engine. It is not a good idea to hope to casually make such a decision in just some seeming, most reasonable initial manner. The vital object of this first decision is to plan our project in a manner (with tools and database engines) which will support your needs all the way down a road through a future, in which, because you made the right initial decisions, you will build effectively upon your initial foundation, efficiently and without eventual obstruction. This means that ideally for instance, the database engine you choose isn't just the easy, or seemingly simple one to deploy today; from the beginning it must be an engine which will support your downstream processing demands. Sometimes commercial considerations further affect such choices. What engines are attendance intensive (and costly)? What engines are virtually attendance free in implementations sustaining the processing goals your eventual project must sustain? Generally, the pattern to follow is to select your engine based on one of two possible dispositions. To do so, you must first chart out your basic table needs. A professional won't even need to build this map (regardless even if hundreds or thousands of tables are involved), because they will usually immediately see whether the architecture and future needs you will need to support are either read or write intensive. You will then choose an appropriate database, based on this overall disposition, and perhaps further based on personal taste and experience, as working with respective software development tools may predicate. MySQL is the usual choice for read intensive implementations. Many developers look to databases such as PostgreSQL for reliable write intensive implementations. We develop our dispositions toward such vital tools by careful research, and by drawing on the pool of experience of the general software development industry. Expense can generally be avoided, because free deployments of very good tools are available. What we're looking for is performance in either read or write intensive environments, reliability, ease and minimization of administration, and ready integration with prospective software development tools. 1-2. Choose your software development tools. There are two patterns to consider in choosing software development tools. Purportedly "easy" tools are rarely in fact easy, when a project inevitably breaks the cast of the development and functionality patterns "easy" tools are generally limited to. Should you want to do something beyond the "easy" tools such as incorporate a language or translation parameter in dynamically generated URLS, it may be so much more difficult to accomplish in the "easy" tools that it may take extremely sophisticated programming skills to as much as trick the easy pattern into doing more complex things. We must master our tools to build good projects. This does not make easy tools the best choice, or the most sophisticated tools a difficult proposition. The trap of "easy" development generally comprises limitations which become very costly to overcome in the inevitable evolution of projects. A huge variety of such tools generally arises, ostensibly meeting such needs. But the pattern of the tools' persistence betrays an ostensible fact of having accomplished this goal; and so, generally we find that the most sophisticated and powerful tools, following good patterns (or availability of objects and libraries), not only alleviate practically inevitable obstructions to easy tools, but likewise then make "getting there" a far more straightforward process. When we examine the scope of available tools, generally less comprehensive models are presented in initial development concepts, and better concepts are offered by later arising tools (or they wouldn't have a chance to survive in markets which have already been won). If we choose a purportedly easy tool then, what we're looking for is a development pattern which is both wieldy and without eventual obstruction. The paradox for the neophyte then is the difficulty of seeing so far down the road that we can perceive programming obstructions to a given tool set. Some people believe the best tools are the most powerful and the least restrictive in terms of project approach. Freedom to develop what you want and need often means breaking the general model of ostensibly simple tools then, the challenges of which can practically break the brain of the most seasoned and sophisticated software engineer, because succeeding in such an object means making the "simple" model do something it may have no native capacity for supporting. Is "Ruby" for instance really an easier tool than fundamental C++ or C#? No. Not really, especially if you have to break the simple model of Ruby to deliver vital functionality. Like Ruby, GCC is free for Linux and OSX. Ruby also comes on OSX ― you just have to discover it on your system. Of the purportedly easier tools, some choose Ruby. Of the truly sophisticated tools, C++ and C# will reign supreme long into the future; and the truth is, these are the only vehicles for development without obstruction. So sit up straight and brace for serious study, because regardless the road you choose, you are going to have to master not only your tools, but the potentially restrictive models which those tools might eventually encumber you with. Ruby is probably far more clean than almost all its "easy" peers. C++ is the tool of unencumbered excellence; and in fact, seasoned gurus will turn out peerless projects probably with far less difficulty than they might accomplish the same goals with a purportedly easy tool. In the end, developers who stray from this observation pay some price: either pick the most conducive "easy" tool, or worry less over the freedom from encumbrance in the most sophisticated tool. In the latter case, you master Fast CGI objects, take the ball and run. Huge concepts are implemented often with little code. Yes, simple tools make the same claim, but by abstracting ostensible difficulty away from us in such ways that deviating from their usually singular pattern poses very difficult engineering challenges, in addition to performance handicaps which C++ resolves. 1-3. In the course of resolving these questions, we inevitably have to examine the basic models or patterns of developing projects of the nature we desire to turn out. This means grabbing the best literature for tools we want to compare, and at least giving our concept some form in which it might take in a given set of tools, as compared to others. Before you choose Ruby for instance, you might pick up vital books such as "The Ruby Programming Language," and "Agile Web Development with Rails." Your initial study must not only sufficiently master the tools, it must envision how you can get there ― how you can provide desired functionality with the tool you might choose. This is a daunting task for the initiate. If you are going to compare a purportedly easy development environment to the best of the best, you're going to have to evaluate the best C tools as well. If you're really going to be a seasoned engineer, you're going to pick C for its freedom from limitation. Is C really more difficult? No. Syntax is syntax. In the end, you have to master expressing the same functionality; and in truth, the C family of languages is excellent. The difficult thing about excelling right out the gate in C++ is putting your hands on the models you might need to build upon. An excellent start from practically 15 years ago was the original FastCGI components which were available in Borland's CPPBuilder ― probably still the best C++ for Windows. Even C initiates can go far with such object oriented approaches, because the general model of sustaining functionality is built into the very things you work with. Your work is far more free-flowing than it can be in Ruby for instance, whenever you might break or exceed the Ruby model in your approach. On the other hand, Rails scaffolding techniques expedite much work for the neophyte, if and only if the project fits the general mold of Ruby and Rails. Introduce rudimentary security provisions for instance, recognized in all your Ruby interfaces however, and the next thing you know, you're re-writing a thousand lines of auto-generated Ruby code for every table your application negotiates. Is that easy? Try a Windows editor called NoteTab Pro, operating on Ruby projects residing on an OSX system; and sophisticated macros to make your revisions in perhaps a second, customizing a thousand lines of code into almost twice that. Still, this relates to relatively simple, basic functionality, which a project is restricted to. The fact is, in C++ we can write our own objects which handle these tasks truly universally ― you'd never even have to replicate this process. So these are the trade-offs. In the end, object oriented C is the most powerful and efficient. Which means it's the least work as well. 1-4. Be aware, no matter your choice of programming tools, there is no way to avoid dependence upon a reasonable mastery of HTML and CSS. Generally, seasoned developers rely on W3C.org for vital material. webpage Tips A vital part of your quest then will be to get your hands on the best resources. I would start with Ruby; and if you want to excel, you'll have to evaluate object oriented C languages, and the environments in which well written projects will out-perform all peers. Nothing therefore can replace exhaustive study and evaluation. Warnings A further impediment to truly mastering simple tools is the unprofessional conduct on many forums. There is a huge difference between professional know-how and pretended skill which so often can lead you far astray from the right way. The best sources of information are generally the most accomplished peers, not pretended masters of purportedly simple tools who simply advocate to stick to the one pattern available to them. The principal reason you're going to submit questions to forums is you will need to exceed (thus break) the model comprised by the purportedly simple approach. When you inevitably run into these needs, you need the best advice. Never think then that a seeming shortcut actually expedites work. VERY often, the converse is true.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get your brain around what kinds of tools and processes will accomplish your goals.\\nBecause the very central core of any dynamic web presence is its database and processing of data, our first vital goal is to make a far-reaching decision on a database engine. It is not a good idea to hope to casually make such a decision in just some seeming, most reasonable initial manner.\\nThe vital object of this first decision is to plan our project in a manner (with tools and database engines) which will support your needs all the way down a road through a future, in which, because you made the right initial decisions, you will build effectively upon your initial foundation, efficiently and without eventual obstruction. This means that ideally for instance, the database engine you choose isn't just the easy, or seemingly simple one to deploy today; from the beginning it must be an engine which will support your downstream processing demands.\\nSometimes commercial considerations further affect such choices. What engines are attendance intensive (and costly)? What engines are virtually attendance free in implementations sustaining the processing goals your eventual project must sustain? Generally, the pattern to follow is to select your engine based on one of two possible dispositions.\\nTo do so, you must first chart out your basic table needs. A professional won't even need to build this map (regardless even if hundreds or thousands of tables are involved), because they will usually immediately see whether the architecture and future needs you will need to support are either read or write intensive. You will then choose an appropriate database, based on this overall disposition, and perhaps further based on personal taste and experience, as working with respective software development tools may predicate. MySQL is the usual choice for read intensive implementations. Many developers look to databases such as PostgreSQL for reliable write intensive implementations. We develop our dispositions toward such vital tools by careful research, and by drawing on the pool of experience of the general software development industry. Expense can generally be avoided, because free deployments of very good tools are available. What we're looking for is performance in either read or write intensive environments, reliability, ease and minimization of administration, and ready integration with prospective software development tools.\\n1-2. Choose your software development tools.\\nThere are two patterns to consider in choosing software development tools. Purportedly \\\"easy\\\" tools are rarely in fact easy, when a project inevitably breaks the cast of the development and functionality patterns \\\"easy\\\" tools are generally limited to. Should you want to do something beyond the \\\"easy\\\" tools such as incorporate a language or translation parameter in dynamically generated URLS, it may be so much more difficult to accomplish in the \\\"easy\\\" tools that it may take extremely sophisticated programming skills to as much as trick the easy pattern into doing more complex things. We must master our tools to build good projects. This does not make easy tools the best choice, or the most sophisticated tools a difficult proposition. The trap of \\\"easy\\\" development generally comprises limitations which become very costly to overcome in the inevitable evolution of projects. A huge variety of such tools generally arises, ostensibly meeting such needs. But the pattern of the tools' persistence betrays an ostensible fact of having accomplished this goal; and so, generally we find that the most sophisticated and powerful tools, following good patterns (or availability of objects and libraries), not only alleviate practically inevitable obstructions to easy tools, but likewise then make \\\"getting there\\\" a far more straightforward process. When we examine the scope of available tools, generally less comprehensive models are presented in initial development concepts, and better concepts are offered by later arising tools (or they wouldn't have a chance to survive in markets which have already been won). If we choose a purportedly easy tool then, what we're looking for is a development pattern which is both wieldy and without eventual obstruction. The paradox for the neophyte then is the difficulty of seeing so far down the road that we can perceive programming obstructions to a given tool set. Some people believe the best tools are the most powerful and the least restrictive in terms of project approach. Freedom to develop what you want and need often means breaking the general model of ostensibly simple tools then, the challenges of which can practically break the brain of the most seasoned and sophisticated software engineer, because succeeding in such an object means making the \\\"simple\\\" model do something it may have no native capacity for supporting. Is \\\"Ruby\\\" for instance really an easier tool than fundamental C++ or C#? No. Not really, especially if you have to break the simple model of Ruby to deliver vital functionality. Like Ruby, GCC is free for Linux and OSX. Ruby also comes on OSX ― you just have to discover it on your system. Of the purportedly easier tools, some choose Ruby. Of the truly sophisticated tools, C++ and C# will reign supreme long into the future; and the truth is, these are the only vehicles for development without obstruction. So sit up straight and brace for serious study, because regardless the road you choose, you are going to have to master not only your tools, but the potentially restrictive models which those tools might eventually encumber you with. Ruby is probably far more clean than almost all its \\\"easy\\\" peers. C++ is the tool of unencumbered excellence; and in fact, seasoned gurus will turn out peerless projects probably with far less difficulty than they might accomplish the same goals with a purportedly easy tool. In the end, developers who stray from this observation pay some price: either pick the most conducive \\\"easy\\\" tool, or worry less over the freedom from encumbrance in the most sophisticated tool. In the latter case, you master Fast CGI objects, take the ball and run. Huge concepts are implemented often with little code. Yes, simple tools make the same claim, but by abstracting ostensible difficulty away from us in such ways that deviating from their usually singular pattern poses very difficult engineering challenges, in addition to performance handicaps which C++ resolves.\\n1-3. In the course of resolving these questions, we inevitably have to examine the basic models or patterns of developing projects of the nature we desire to turn out.\\nThis means grabbing the best literature for tools we want to compare, and at least giving our concept some form in which it might take in a given set of tools, as compared to others. Before you choose Ruby for instance, you might pick up vital books such as \\\"The Ruby Programming Language,\\\" and \\\"Agile Web Development with Rails.\\\" Your initial study must not only sufficiently master the tools, it must envision how you can get there ― how you can provide desired functionality with the tool you might choose. This is a daunting task for the initiate. If you are going to compare a purportedly easy development environment to the best of the best, you're going to have to evaluate the best C tools as well. If you're really going to be a seasoned engineer, you're going to pick C for its freedom from limitation. Is C really more difficult? No. Syntax is syntax. In the end, you have to master expressing the same functionality; and in truth, the C family of languages is excellent. The difficult thing about excelling right out the gate in C++ is putting your hands on the models you might need to build upon. An excellent start from practically 15 years ago was the original FastCGI components which were available in Borland's CPPBuilder ― probably still the best C++ for Windows. Even C initiates can go far with such object oriented approaches, because the general model of sustaining functionality is built into the very things you work with. Your work is far more free-flowing than it can be in Ruby for instance, whenever you might break or exceed the Ruby model in your approach. On the other hand, Rails scaffolding techniques expedite much work for the neophyte, if and only if the project fits the general mold of Ruby and Rails. Introduce rudimentary security provisions for instance, recognized in all your Ruby interfaces however, and the next thing you know, you're re-writing a thousand lines of auto-generated Ruby code for every table your application negotiates. Is that easy? Try a Windows editor called NoteTab Pro, operating on Ruby projects residing on an OSX system; and sophisticated macros to make your revisions in perhaps a second, customizing a thousand lines of code into almost twice that. Still, this relates to relatively simple, basic functionality, which a project is restricted to. The fact is, in C++ we can write our own objects which handle these tasks truly universally ― you'd never even have to replicate this process. So these are the trade-offs. In the end, object oriented C is the most powerful and efficient. Which means it's the least work as well.\\n1-4. Be aware, no matter your choice of programming tools, there is no way to avoid dependence upon a reasonable mastery of HTML and CSS.\\nGenerally, seasoned developers rely on W3C.org for vital material. webpage\\nTips\\nA vital part of your quest then will be to get your hands on the best resources. I would start with Ruby; and if you want to excel, you'll have to evaluate object oriented C languages, and the environments in which well written projects will out-perform all peers.\\nNothing therefore can replace exhaustive study and evaluation.\\nWarnings\\nA further impediment to truly mastering simple tools is the unprofessional conduct on many forums. There is a huge difference between professional know-how and pretended skill which so often can lead you far astray from the right way. The best sources of information are generally the most accomplished peers, not pretended masters of purportedly simple tools who simply advocate to stick to the one pattern available to them. The principal reason you're going to submit questions to forums is you will need to exceed (thus break) the model comprised by the purportedly simple approach. When you inevitably run into these needs, you need the best advice.\\nNever think then that a seeming shortcut actually expedites work. VERY often, the converse is true.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The issues of this topic are so broad and varied in possible approaches that any realistic answer to inevitable questions can only point the overall way. \\n\\nMany people today want and hope to build dynamic (data driven) web presences, the architectures of which readily accommodate new material, revision, and visitor interaction. wikiHow for instance is a dynamic website. While the goal of quality projects is within the reach of all diligent people, it would be a mistake to underestimate what in the end is a substantially challenging task, particularly in the technical objects of any prospective project. Even the simplest dynamic web presences require sufficient skills in a variety of disciplines. \\n\\nIn meeting indispensable goals, no one can deviate from good database design. Preparing ourselves in this discipline alone is a substantial (but not a preclusive) body of work. Once we have a summary of project objectives, we must envision sound means of achieving them. Then we have programming languages or tools to choose, based on a vision for ideal project architecture. \\n\\nSeeing the whole picture from the very beginning then, is the most vital skill of all.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get your brain around what kinds of tools and processes will accomplish your goals.\", \"描述\": \"Because the very central core of any dynamic web presence is its database and processing of data, our first vital goal is to make a far-reaching decision on a database engine. It is not a good idea to hope to casually make such a decision in just some seeming, most reasonable initial manner.\\nThe vital object of this first decision is to plan our project in a manner (with tools and database engines) which will support your needs all the way down a road through a future, in which, because you made the right initial decisions, you will build effectively upon your initial foundation, efficiently and without eventual obstruction. This means that ideally for instance, the database engine you choose isn't just the easy, or seemingly simple one to deploy today; from the beginning it must be an engine which will support your downstream processing demands.\\nSometimes commercial considerations further affect such choices. What engines are attendance intensive (and costly)? What engines are virtually attendance free in implementations sustaining the processing goals your eventual project must sustain? Generally, the pattern to follow is to select your engine based on one of two possible dispositions.\\nTo do so, you must first chart out your basic table needs. A professional won't even need to build this map (regardless even if hundreds or thousands of tables are involved), because they will usually immediately see whether the architecture and future needs you will need to support are either read or write intensive. You will then choose an appropriate database, based on this overall disposition, and perhaps further based on personal taste and experience, as working with respective software development tools may predicate. MySQL is the usual choice for read intensive implementations. Many developers look to databases such as PostgreSQL for reliable write intensive implementations. We develop our dispositions toward such vital tools by careful research, and by drawing on the pool of experience of the general software development industry. Expense can generally be avoided, because free deployments of very good tools are available. What we're looking for is performance in either read or write intensive environments, reliability, ease and minimization of administration, and ready integration with prospective software development tools.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your software development tools.\", \"描述\": \"There are two patterns to consider in choosing software development tools. Purportedly \\\"easy\\\" tools are rarely in fact easy, when a project inevitably breaks the cast of the development and functionality patterns \\\"easy\\\" tools are generally limited to. Should you want to do something beyond the \\\"easy\\\" tools such as incorporate a language or translation parameter in dynamically generated URLS, it may be so much more difficult to accomplish in the \\\"easy\\\" tools that it may take extremely sophisticated programming skills to as much as trick the easy pattern into doing more complex things. We must master our tools to build good projects. This does not make easy tools the best choice, or the most sophisticated tools a difficult proposition. The trap of \\\"easy\\\" development generally comprises limitations which become very costly to overcome in the inevitable evolution of projects. A huge variety of such tools generally arises, ostensibly meeting such needs. But the pattern of the tools' persistence betrays an ostensible fact of having accomplished this goal; and so, generally we find that the most sophisticated and powerful tools, following good patterns (or availability of objects and libraries), not only alleviate practically inevitable obstructions to easy tools, but likewise then make \\\"getting there\\\" a far more straightforward process. When we examine the scope of available tools, generally less comprehensive models are presented in initial development concepts, and better concepts are offered by later arising tools (or they wouldn't have a chance to survive in markets which have already been won). If we choose a purportedly easy tool then, what we're looking for is a development pattern which is both wieldy and without eventual obstruction. The paradox for the neophyte then is the difficulty of seeing so far down the road that we can perceive programming obstructions to a given tool set. Some people believe the best tools are the most powerful and the least restrictive in terms of project approach. Freedom to develop what you want and need often means breaking the general model of ostensibly simple tools then, the challenges of which can practically break the brain of the most seasoned and sophisticated software engineer, because succeeding in such an object means making the \\\"simple\\\" model do something it may have no native capacity for supporting. Is \\\"Ruby\\\" for instance really an easier tool than fundamental C++ or C#? No. Not really, especially if you have to break the simple model of Ruby to deliver vital functionality. Like Ruby, GCC is free for Linux and OSX. Ruby also comes on OSX ― you just have to discover it on your system. Of the purportedly easier tools, some choose Ruby. Of the truly sophisticated tools, C++ and C# will reign supreme long into the future; and the truth is, these are the only vehicles for development without obstruction. So sit up straight and brace for serious study, because regardless the road you choose, you are going to have to master not only your tools, but the potentially restrictive models which those tools might eventually encumber you with. Ruby is probably far more clean than almost all its \\\"easy\\\" peers. C++ is the tool of unencumbered excellence; and in fact, seasoned gurus will turn out peerless projects probably with far less difficulty than they might accomplish the same goals with a purportedly easy tool. In the end, developers who stray from this observation pay some price: either pick the most conducive \\\"easy\\\" tool, or worry less over the freedom from encumbrance in the most sophisticated tool. In the latter case, you master Fast CGI objects, take the ball and run. Huge concepts are implemented often with little code. Yes, simple tools make the same claim, but by abstracting ostensible difficulty away from us in such ways that deviating from their usually singular pattern poses very difficult engineering challenges, in addition to performance handicaps which C++ resolves.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"In the course of resolving these questions, we inevitably have to examine the basic models or patterns of developing projects of the nature we desire to turn out.\", \"描述\": \"This means grabbing the best literature for tools we want to compare, and at least giving our concept some form in which it might take in a given set of tools, as compared to others. Before you choose Ruby for instance, you might pick up vital books such as \\\"The Ruby Programming Language,\\\" and \\\"Agile Web Development with Rails.\\\" Your initial study must not only sufficiently master the tools, it must envision how you can get there ― how you can provide desired functionality with the tool you might choose. This is a daunting task for the initiate. If you are going to compare a purportedly easy development environment to the best of the best, you're going to have to evaluate the best C tools as well. If you're really going to be a seasoned engineer, you're going to pick C for its freedom from limitation. Is C really more difficult? No. Syntax is syntax. In the end, you have to master expressing the same functionality; and in truth, the C family of languages is excellent. The difficult thing about excelling right out the gate in C++ is putting your hands on the models you might need to build upon. An excellent start from practically 15 years ago was the original FastCGI components which were available in Borland's CPPBuilder ― probably still the best C++ for Windows. Even C initiates can go far with such object oriented approaches, because the general model of sustaining functionality is built into the very things you work with. Your work is far more free-flowing than it can be in Ruby for instance, whenever you might break or exceed the Ruby model in your approach. On the other hand, Rails scaffolding techniques expedite much work for the neophyte, if and only if the project fits the general mold of Ruby and Rails. Introduce rudimentary security provisions for instance, recognized in all your Ruby interfaces however, and the next thing you know, you're re-writing a thousand lines of auto-generated Ruby code for every table your application negotiates. Is that easy? Try a Windows editor called NoteTab Pro, operating on Ruby projects residing on an OSX system; and sophisticated macros to make your revisions in perhaps a second, customizing a thousand lines of code into almost twice that. Still, this relates to relatively simple, basic functionality, which a project is restricted to. The fact is, in C++ we can write our own objects which handle these tasks truly universally ― you'd never even have to replicate this process. So these are the trade-offs. In the end, object oriented C is the most powerful and efficient. Which means it's the least work as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be aware, no matter your choice of programming tools, there is no way to avoid dependence upon a reasonable mastery of HTML and CSS.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, seasoned developers rely on W3C.org for vital material. webpage\"}], \"小提示\": [\"A vital part of your quest then will be to get your hands on the best resources. I would start with Ruby; and if you want to excel, you'll have to evaluate object oriented C languages, and the environments in which well written projects will out-perform all peers.\\n\", \"Nothing therefore can replace exhaustive study and evaluation.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"A further impediment to truly mastering simple tools is the unprofessional conduct on many forums. There is a huge difference between professional know-how and pretended skill which so often can lead you far astray from the right way. The best sources of information are generally the most accomplished peers, not pretended masters of purportedly simple tools who simply advocate to stick to the one pattern available to them. The principal reason you're going to submit questions to forums is you will need to exceed (thus break) the model comprised by the purportedly simple approach. When you inevitably run into these needs, you need the best advice.\\n\", \"Never think then that a seeming shortcut actually expedites work. VERY often, the converse is true.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,335
How to Build a Fake Wall
1. Assembling the Wall Frame 1-1. Measure the height of the space where you want your wall to go. Start by deciding how long your wall will be and write this dimension down on a sheet of paper. Then, stretch a tape measure from floor to ceiling at both ends of your chosen location. Jot down these measurements alongside the first. You’re free to make your wall as long as you like. Keep in mind, however, that the completed wall will cut down on the amount of floor space you have available. Larger walls will also require more labor to take apart than smaller ones. Taking two separate height measurements rather than just one will provide for small variations in the floor and ceiling of the room you’re installing the wall in. 1-2. Apply sill sealer to the floor and ceiling where they’ll connect with the wall. Cut two strips of ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) foam sill sealer to match the length you’ve selected for your wall. Lay the bottom strip along the floor where the wall will run. You can either use tape or a mild adhesive to secure the top strip or simply hold off on positioning it until it’s time to put everything together. You’ll find sill sealer, also known as sill gasket, at any major hardware store or home improvement center. Sill sealer is sold in large rolls that range in width from 5 ⁄2 inches (11 cm) to 7 ⁄2 inches (17 cm). A 5 ⁄2 in (11 cm) roll will be the perfect size for this project. 1-3. Cut a pair of 2x4 boards to match the intended length of your wall. Use your tape measure and a pencil to mark the precise length dimensions on the boards. Then, trim the boards to size with a circular saw or hand saw. These pieces will serve as the top and bottom plates for your wall. Cutting tools can be extremely dangerous when operated incorrectly, so be careful and pay close attention to what you’re doing at all times. 1-4. Saw two more 2x4s to the height of your space minus 3 inches (7.6 cm). Now, subtract 3 inches (7.6 cm) from both of the height measurements you took earlier and transcribe the resulting dimensions onto a fresh pair of boards. Cut these boards using the same method you did for the first set. They’ll function as the vertical studs on either end of the finished frame. Reducing the length of your stud boards by 3 inches (7.6 cm) will account for the thickness of the top and bottom plates—2x4s have an actual thickness of 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm). 1-5. Piece together your individual framing components. First, position your top and bottom plates over your sill sealer strips, which should be situated in the location you’ve decided on for your wall. Then, stand up your end studs and wedge them between the plates perpendicularly, making sure the broad faces are flush with the ends of the plates. You may need to recruit a helper to hold the top sill sealer and plate in place while you negotiate the studs or vice-versa. If you’re having a hard time getting your ends studs to fit in between the plates, try tapping them in with a rubber mallet. 1-6. Toe-nail the studs to the plates with 16D framing nails to fasten your frame. Hold a nail against one side of the lower part of the first end stud. Use a hammer to drive the nail in carefully at a 40-45-degree angle so that the tip seats securely in the bottom plate. Do the same where the upper part of the stud meets the top plate, then repeat the process on the opposite stud. Wood screws are also an option. One advantage of screws is that they’ll be easier to remove later on once the time comes to dismantle your wall. It may also be a good idea to nail the top plate to the nearest ceiling joist if you plan on putting a door in your wall or have children or pets who might pose a risk to its stability. A couple extra nails should be enough to keep the whole structure from moving. 1-7. Add a few intervening studs if your frame runs more than 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m). Longer walls will benefit from some additional internal support. Cut enough studs to space the individual boards 16–24 inches (41–61 cm) apart on center down the length of your frame. Toe-nail these studs to the top and bottom plates just as you did the first pair. Additional studs will prevent your wall from collapsing under the force of knocks, bumps, and other sudden impacts. 2. Finishing Your Wall 2-1. Insulate your wall with fiberglass batts if you want to partially soundproof it. Slip the insulation panels into your frame in the spaces between the studs, being careful not to crush or compress them. Most fiberglass batts are sized in accordance with standard stud spacings for interior walls, so you should have no problem getting a perfect fit. If you notice any excess insulation piling up at the bottom of the frame, carefully slice it off using a sharp utility knife. Anytime you’re working with fiberglass insulation, always wear long-sleeved clothing, gloves, eye protection, and a facemask to safeguard your skin, eyes, airways, and other sensitive areas. It helps to put talcum or baby powder on your forearms and hands before interacting with the insulation. This prevents the fiberglass from accessing your pores. Once you get the powder off, you won't be itchy at all! 2-2. Hang drywall on your completed frame to enclose it. Mark a series of drywall sheets with vertical lines corresponding to the spacing of the vertical studs in your frame. Score the sheets with a utility knife, then snap them apart by hand or grab a drywall saw to handle the fine cutting. Fasten each panel to the frame by sinking 1 ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drywall nails every 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) down its entire length on both sides. Drywall comes in several standard thicknesses, but the ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) variety is a good all-around size that will suit most interior walls. Most drywall jobs are concluded by applying drywall tape and joint compound in order to strengthen the sections where the individual panels meet. For a temporary wall, however, these final steps will be optional. 2-3. Paint your temporary wall Apply 2-3 coats each of interior latex primer and paint in your chosen color to make your new addition blend in with the surrounding walls. Aim for even coverage and consistent depth of color, and allow each coat to dry for 30 minutes to an hour before moving onto follow-up coats. If your wall is only a few feet wide, you should be able to paint it easily with a handheld brush. Otherwise, you’ll save yourself some time and labor by using a roller. Hold off on adding trim and other embellishments until after you’ve painted to avoid creating more work for yourself. The only exception is when you want to paint the trim the same color as the wall itself. 2-4. Add a few pieces of decorative trim to give your wall a more authentic look. Use your circular saw to cut your trim boards to the correct length and arrange them on the bottom of the wall. If needed, use a dab of carpenter’s glue to hold the boards in place if needed. When you’re satisfied with their placement, attach them to each point along the wall where there’s an underlying stud using two 8d finishing nails. Track down a type of trim that matches the room’s existing accents, or choose a style that you think will look good in the area your wall will be going in. This is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to customize the appearance of a temporary wall. You can repeat this same process if you decide to add matching crown molding to the top of the wall. 2-5. Put in a door If you’re using your fake wall to close off an open-air study, office space, or similar area, you might choose to add a door for additional privacy and convenience. To add a door from scratch, you’ll need to cut an appropriately-sized opening in your wall, then fit and hang the door itself, along with the necessary mounting hardware. Depending on how elaborate you want your faux wall to be, you may also opt to cut and install trim to frame the mounted door and create more visual contrast with the surrounding surface. Installing a brand new door, opening and all, can be a fairly involved project. But with the right tools and a good guide, it’s not outside the capabilities of the average homeowner. Tips It’s possible to build a simple yet functional temporary wall in just a few hours using only a couple hundred dollars’ worth of materials, regardless of whether or not you have any previous construction experience. If space allows, you can even move your wall around the room to try out different setups and configurations, since it won’t actually be connected to any part of the structure you’re adding it onto. Check with your landlord before installing a temporary wall in your apartment. In some cases, these sorts of add-ons can violate the terms of your original rental agreement, which could end up costing you your security deposit.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the Wall Frame\\n1-1. Measure the height of the space where you want your wall to go.\\nStart by deciding how long your wall will be and write this dimension down on a sheet of paper. Then, stretch a tape measure from floor to ceiling at both ends of your chosen location. Jot down these measurements alongside the first.\\nYou’re free to make your wall as long as you like. Keep in mind, however, that the completed wall will cut down on the amount of floor space you have available. Larger walls will also require more labor to take apart than smaller ones.\\nTaking two separate height measurements rather than just one will provide for small variations in the floor and ceiling of the room you’re installing the wall in.\\n1-2. Apply sill sealer to the floor and ceiling where they’ll connect with the wall.\\nCut two strips of ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) foam sill sealer to match the length you’ve selected for your wall. Lay the bottom strip along the floor where the wall will run. You can either use tape or a mild adhesive to secure the top strip or simply hold off on positioning it until it’s time to put everything together.\\nYou’ll find sill sealer, also known as sill gasket, at any major hardware store or home improvement center.\\nSill sealer is sold in large rolls that range in width from 5 ⁄2 inches (11 cm) to 7 ⁄2 inches (17 cm). A 5 ⁄2 in (11 cm) roll will be the perfect size for this project.\\n1-3. Cut a pair of 2x4 boards to match the intended length of your wall.\\nUse your tape measure and a pencil to mark the precise length dimensions on the boards. Then, trim the boards to size with a circular saw or hand saw. These pieces will serve as the top and bottom plates for your wall.\\nCutting tools can be extremely dangerous when operated incorrectly, so be careful and pay close attention to what you’re doing at all times.\\n1-4. Saw two more 2x4s to the height of your space minus 3 inches (7.6 cm).\\nNow, subtract 3 inches (7.6 cm) from both of the height measurements you took earlier and transcribe the resulting dimensions onto a fresh pair of boards. Cut these boards using the same method you did for the first set. They’ll function as the vertical studs on either end of the finished frame.\\nReducing the length of your stud boards by 3 inches (7.6 cm) will account for the thickness of the top and bottom plates—2x4s have an actual thickness of 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm).\\n1-5. Piece together your individual framing components.\\nFirst, position your top and bottom plates over your sill sealer strips, which should be situated in the location you’ve decided on for your wall. Then, stand up your end studs and wedge them between the plates perpendicularly, making sure the broad faces are flush with the ends of the plates. You may need to recruit a helper to hold the top sill sealer and plate in place while you negotiate the studs or vice-versa.\\nIf you’re having a hard time getting your ends studs to fit in between the plates, try tapping them in with a rubber mallet.\\n1-6. Toe-nail the studs to the plates with 16D framing nails to fasten your frame.\\nHold a nail against one side of the lower part of the first end stud. Use a hammer to drive the nail in carefully at a 40-45-degree angle so that the tip seats securely in the bottom plate. Do the same where the upper part of the stud meets the top plate, then repeat the process on the opposite stud.\\nWood screws are also an option. One advantage of screws is that they’ll be easier to remove later on once the time comes to dismantle your wall.\\nIt may also be a good idea to nail the top plate to the nearest ceiling joist if you plan on putting a door in your wall or have children or pets who might pose a risk to its stability. A couple extra nails should be enough to keep the whole structure from moving.\\n1-7. Add a few intervening studs if your frame runs more than 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m).\\nLonger walls will benefit from some additional internal support. Cut enough studs to space the individual boards 16–24 inches (41–61 cm) apart on center down the length of your frame. Toe-nail these studs to the top and bottom plates just as you did the first pair.\\nAdditional studs will prevent your wall from collapsing under the force of knocks, bumps, and other sudden impacts.\\n2. Finishing Your Wall\\n2-1. Insulate your wall with fiberglass batts if you want to partially soundproof it.\\nSlip the insulation panels into your frame in the spaces between the studs, being careful not to crush or compress them. Most fiberglass batts are sized in accordance with standard stud spacings for interior walls, so you should have no problem getting a perfect fit.\\nIf you notice any excess insulation piling up at the bottom of the frame, carefully slice it off using a sharp utility knife.\\nAnytime you’re working with fiberglass insulation, always wear long-sleeved clothing, gloves, eye protection, and a facemask to safeguard your skin, eyes, airways, and other sensitive areas.\\nIt helps to put talcum or baby powder on your forearms and hands before interacting with the insulation. This prevents the fiberglass from accessing your pores. Once you get the powder off, you won't be itchy at all!\\n2-2. Hang drywall on your completed frame to enclose it.\\nMark a series of drywall sheets with vertical lines corresponding to the spacing of the vertical studs in your frame. Score the sheets with a utility knife, then snap them apart by hand or grab a drywall saw to handle the fine cutting. Fasten each panel to the frame by sinking 1 ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drywall nails every 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) down its entire length on both sides.\\nDrywall comes in several standard thicknesses, but the ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) variety is a good all-around size that will suit most interior walls.\\nMost drywall jobs are concluded by applying drywall tape and joint compound in order to strengthen the sections where the individual panels meet. For a temporary wall, however, these final steps will be optional.\\n2-3. Paint your temporary wall\\nApply 2-3 coats each of interior latex primer and paint in your chosen color to make your new addition blend in with the surrounding walls. Aim for even coverage and consistent depth of color, and allow each coat to dry for 30 minutes to an hour before moving onto follow-up coats.\\nIf your wall is only a few feet wide, you should be able to paint it easily with a handheld brush. Otherwise, you’ll save yourself some time and labor by using a roller.\\nHold off on adding trim and other embellishments until after you’ve painted to avoid creating more work for yourself. The only exception is when you want to paint the trim the same color as the wall itself.\\n2-4. Add a few pieces of decorative trim to give your wall a more authentic look.\\nUse your circular saw to cut your trim boards to the correct length and arrange them on the bottom of the wall. If needed, use a dab of carpenter’s glue to hold the boards in place if needed. When you’re satisfied with their placement, attach them to each point along the wall where there’s an underlying stud using two 8d finishing nails.\\nTrack down a type of trim that matches the room’s existing accents, or choose a style that you think will look good in the area your wall will be going in. This is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to customize the appearance of a temporary wall.\\nYou can repeat this same process if you decide to add matching crown molding to the top of the wall.\\n2-5. Put in a door\\nIf you’re using your fake wall to close off an open-air study, office space, or similar area, you might choose to add a door for additional privacy and convenience. To add a door from scratch, you’ll need to cut an appropriately-sized opening in your wall, then fit and hang the door itself, along with the necessary mounting hardware. Depending on how elaborate you want your faux wall to be, you may also opt to cut and install trim to frame the mounted door and create more visual contrast with the surrounding surface. \\nInstalling a brand new door, opening and all, can be a fairly involved project. But with the right tools and a good guide, it’s not outside the capabilities of the average homeowner.\\nTips\\nIt’s possible to build a simple yet functional temporary wall in just a few hours using only a couple hundred dollars’ worth of materials, regardless of whether or not you have any previous construction experience.\\nIf space allows, you can even move your wall around the room to try out different setups and configurations, since it won’t actually be connected to any part of the structure you’re adding it onto.\\nCheck with your landlord before installing a temporary wall in your apartment. In some cases, these sorts of add-ons can violate the terms of your original rental agreement, which could end up costing you your security deposit.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Knowing how to build a “fake” wall, more appropriately known as a temporary wall, can come in handy when you want to enhance your privacy or change the layout of a room without actually altering its construction. You don’t need to be a home improvement guru to get started—the process is really quite simple. In a nutshell, it involves measuring the space where you’ll be situating your wall, constructing a rudimentary frame out 2x4 boards, then adding drywall, paint, trim, or any other finishing touches you like to get it looking just the way you want it.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Wall Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the height of the space where you want your wall to go.\", \"描述\": \"Start by deciding how long your wall will be and write this dimension down on a sheet of paper. Then, stretch a tape measure from floor to ceiling at both ends of your chosen location. Jot down these measurements alongside the first.\\nYou’re free to make your wall as long as you like. Keep in mind, however, that the completed wall will cut down on the amount of floor space you have available. Larger walls will also require more labor to take apart than smaller ones.\\nTaking two separate height measurements rather than just one will provide for small variations in the floor and ceiling of the room you’re installing the wall in.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Apply sill sealer to the floor and ceiling where they’ll connect with the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Cut two strips of ⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) foam sill sealer to match the length you’ve selected for your wall. Lay the bottom strip along the floor where the wall will run. You can either use tape or a mild adhesive to secure the top strip or simply hold off on positioning it until it’s time to put everything together.\\nYou’ll find sill sealer, also known as sill gasket, at any major hardware store or home improvement center.\\nSill sealer is sold in large rolls that range in width from 5 ⁄2 inches (11 cm) to 7 ⁄2 inches (17 cm). A 5 ⁄2 in (11 cm) roll will be the perfect size for this project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut a pair of 2x4 boards to match the intended length of your wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use your tape measure and a pencil to mark the precise length dimensions on the boards. Then, trim the boards to size with a circular saw or hand saw. These pieces will serve as the top and bottom plates for your wall.\\nCutting tools can be extremely dangerous when operated incorrectly, so be careful and pay close attention to what you’re doing at all times.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Saw two more 2x4s to the height of your space minus 3 inches (7.6 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Now, subtract 3 inches (7.6 cm) from both of the height measurements you took earlier and transcribe the resulting dimensions onto a fresh pair of boards. Cut these boards using the same method you did for the first set. They’ll function as the vertical studs on either end of the finished frame.\\nReducing the length of your stud boards by 3 inches (7.6 cm) will account for the thickness of the top and bottom plates—2x4s have an actual thickness of 1 ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Piece together your individual framing components.\", \"描述\": \"First, position your top and bottom plates over your sill sealer strips, which should be situated in the location you’ve decided on for your wall. Then, stand up your end studs and wedge them between the plates perpendicularly, making sure the broad faces are flush with the ends of the plates. You may need to recruit a helper to hold the top sill sealer and plate in place while you negotiate the studs or vice-versa.\\nIf you’re having a hard time getting your ends studs to fit in between the plates, try tapping them in with a rubber mallet.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Toe-nail the studs to the plates with 16D framing nails to fasten your frame.\", \"描述\": \"Hold a nail against one side of the lower part of the first end stud. Use a hammer to drive the nail in carefully at a 40-45-degree angle so that the tip seats securely in the bottom plate. Do the same where the upper part of the stud meets the top plate, then repeat the process on the opposite stud.\\nWood screws are also an option. One advantage of screws is that they’ll be easier to remove later on once the time comes to dismantle your wall.\\nIt may also be a good idea to nail the top plate to the nearest ceiling joist if you plan on putting a door in your wall or have children or pets who might pose a risk to its stability. A couple extra nails should be enough to keep the whole structure from moving.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a few intervening studs if your frame runs more than 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m).\", \"描述\": \"Longer walls will benefit from some additional internal support. Cut enough studs to space the individual boards 16–24 inches (41–61 cm) apart on center down the length of your frame. Toe-nail these studs to the top and bottom plates just as you did the first pair.\\nAdditional studs will prevent your wall from collapsing under the force of knocks, bumps, and other sudden impacts.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Finishing Your Wall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Insulate your wall with fiberglass batts if you want to partially soundproof it.\", \"描述\": \"Slip the insulation panels into your frame in the spaces between the studs, being careful not to crush or compress them. Most fiberglass batts are sized in accordance with standard stud spacings for interior walls, so you should have no problem getting a perfect fit.\\nIf you notice any excess insulation piling up at the bottom of the frame, carefully slice it off using a sharp utility knife.\\nAnytime you’re working with fiberglass insulation, always wear long-sleeved clothing, gloves, eye protection, and a facemask to safeguard your skin, eyes, airways, and other sensitive areas.\\nIt helps to put talcum or baby powder on your forearms and hands before interacting with the insulation. This prevents the fiberglass from accessing your pores. Once you get the powder off, you won't be itchy at all!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hang drywall on your completed frame to enclose it.\", \"描述\": \"Mark a series of drywall sheets with vertical lines corresponding to the spacing of the vertical studs in your frame. Score the sheets with a utility knife, then snap them apart by hand or grab a drywall saw to handle the fine cutting. Fasten each panel to the frame by sinking 1 ⁄8 in (1.6 cm) drywall nails every 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) down its entire length on both sides.\\nDrywall comes in several standard thicknesses, but the ⁄8 inch (0.95 cm) variety is a good all-around size that will suit most interior walls.\\nMost drywall jobs are concluded by applying drywall tape and joint compound in order to strengthen the sections where the individual panels meet. For a temporary wall, however, these final steps will be optional.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Paint your temporary wall\", \"描述\": \"Apply 2-3 coats each of interior latex primer and paint in your chosen color to make your new addition blend in with the surrounding walls. Aim for even coverage and consistent depth of color, and allow each coat to dry for 30 minutes to an hour before moving onto follow-up coats.\\nIf your wall is only a few feet wide, you should be able to paint it easily with a handheld brush. Otherwise, you’ll save yourself some time and labor by using a roller.\\nHold off on adding trim and other embellishments until after you’ve painted to avoid creating more work for yourself. The only exception is when you want to paint the trim the same color as the wall itself.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a few pieces of decorative trim to give your wall a more authentic look.\", \"描述\": \"Use your circular saw to cut your trim boards to the correct length and arrange them on the bottom of the wall. If needed, use a dab of carpenter’s glue to hold the boards in place if needed. When you’re satisfied with their placement, attach them to each point along the wall where there’s an underlying stud using two 8d finishing nails.\\nTrack down a type of trim that matches the room’s existing accents, or choose a style that you think will look good in the area your wall will be going in. This is one of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to customize the appearance of a temporary wall.\\nYou can repeat this same process if you decide to add matching crown molding to the top of the wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put in a door\", \"描述\": \"If you’re using your fake wall to close off an open-air study, office space, or similar area, you might choose to add a door for additional privacy and convenience. To add a door from scratch, you’ll need to cut an appropriately-sized opening in your wall, then fit and hang the door itself, along with the necessary mounting hardware. Depending on how elaborate you want your faux wall to be, you may also opt to cut and install trim to frame the mounted door and create more visual contrast with the surrounding surface. \\nInstalling a brand new door, opening and all, can be a fairly involved project. But with the right tools and a good guide, it’s not outside the capabilities of the average homeowner.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It’s possible to build a simple yet functional temporary wall in just a few hours using only a couple hundred dollars’ worth of materials, regardless of whether or not you have any previous construction experience.\\n\", \"If space allows, you can even move your wall around the room to try out different setups and configurations, since it won’t actually be connected to any part of the structure you’re adding it onto.\\n\", \"Check with your landlord before installing a temporary wall in your apartment. In some cases, these sorts of add-ons can violate the terms of your original rental agreement, which could end up costing you your security deposit.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,336
How to Build a Fallout Shelter
1. Excavating the Soil 1-1. Choose a building area on stable ground away from obstructions. When a nuclear weapon detonates, it creates a thermal pulse which can set things 20 mi (32 km) away on fire. You can often build a shelter in your backyard if you can position it so that both rainwater and water behind dams runs away from it. You will also need to consider where the utility lines are in your area so you don’t disturb them. Try to select stable ground where trees and buildings won’t fall on your shelter. If you’re in a city, you can build a reinforced shelter in a basement. The concrete can protect you from fallout and falling debris. Research the topography of your area. Your government’s local land survey office will have them available. Also, check with the emergency response office. Avoid positioning your shelter downhill from bodies of water or below steep slopes. Keep it clear of flammable buildings. 1-2. Print out a blueprint for the shelter you want to make. Having a clear blueprint will help you construct a stable, effective shelter. You can find some basic plans simply by searching for fallout shelter blueprints online. Some plans may even include a step by step overview for building the shelter. You can also get blueprints by consulting an architect or drafter. They can provide guidance on what shelter best suits your needs. Most building construction companies can build a shelter for you. Even if you don’t want to hire someone to design a shelter, sketch your own plans before beginning construction. You can try using a computer program like SketchUp. 1-3. Stake out and clear the building area for construction. Plot out the shelter’s perimeter according to your blueprint. Plant a series of wooden stakes in the ground to outline the shelter’s perimeter. Then, use shovels, axes, and other tools to dig up grass, trees, rocks, and other debris in the area. Clear the land about 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the shelter’s perimeter so you have plenty of space to work with. The shelter’s size is up to you. Expect to add about 3 ft (0.91 m) to the shelter’s length for every person who will hide there. A basic 4-person shelter is about 10 × 10 × 10 ft (3.0 × 3.0 × 3.0 m) in size. 1-4. Dig a trench Begin digging out soil to form the basic outline of your shelter. You can do this with shovels, although it takes a lot of time and labor. Move the excavated dirt 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the stakes. You will need to keep the dirt away so it doesn’t fall back into the trench. For quicker work, rent a backhoe from an equipment company near you. This can get pricey, but speeding up the excavation process is often worth it. Digging a deeper trench means more space and blast protection for your shelter. 1-5. Create an emergency exit at the far end of the trench. The emergency exit will also serve as extra ventilation. At the end of the trench, dig a crawl space about 2 ft (0.61 m) wide and 3 ⁄2 ft (1.1 m) deep. The crawl space will be right below the soil’s surface. Create an exit at the end by digging a small trench to connect the crawl space to the outside world. You can build dirt steps as needed to reach the surface. Pile dirt near the entryway, then begin digging into it with a shovel. Shape the dirt into small steps. Lay threshold boards over each steps, connecting them to side boards with 10 in (25 cm) lag bolts. Always have a second exit in your shelter to guard against emergencies. 1-6. Make a second crawl-way for the entrance. Create the main entryway the same way you built the emergency exit. This time, dig on the opposite end of the shelter. You can make this entryway a little wider so you have an easier time entering the shelter. Keep the entryway below ground, emerging away from the shelter’s main living quarters. The main entrance will not have air pumps or ventilation pipes running through it, so it may appear larger by default. 2. Creating the Shelter Roof 2-1. Lay wooden roofing poles side by side over the trench. Get poles that overhang the trench by at least 2 ft (0.61 m) so they are less likely to collapse. Lay them across the trench’s width. Push the logs as close together as possible to reduce the gaps in the shelter’s roof. For example, try using 9 ft (2.7 m) poles over a trench 5 ft (1.5 m) wide. Roofing poles are basically long, uncut pieces of timber. You can get them from lumber yards. Roofing suppliers and home improvement stores may also be able to help. 2-2. Stack poles in front of the entryways to keep dirt out of them. Lay a few 6 ft (1.8 m) wooden roofing poles between the trench and the edge of each entryway. Use about 3 or 4 logs on each side. Tie them together with strong rope or wire, also binding them to the closest poles hanging over the trench. These entryway poles hold back the dirt you will use to create the shelter ceiling. If you don’t have them in place, the dirt can slide into the entryways, blocking them. 2-3. Waterproof the logs with a tarp or another plastic material. Make sure you cover any gaps between the logs so water and dirt can’t fall into the shelter. You can do this easily by purchasing a tarp large enough to fit over the trench. Also try overlapping a few smaller tarps. You can also fill the gaps with cloth, leaves, clay, or other alternative materials. 2-4. Cover the logs with an 18 in (46 cm) earth dome. Begin moving the excavated dirt back on top of the logs. Make sure the dirt is unable to leak into the living space below the logs. As you pile up the dirt, shape it into a rounded mound ending right before the shelter’s entrances. The mound shape will give your shelter’s roof plenty of stability to prevent it from caving in. For extra radiation protection, make the dome deeper. Try placing a second plastic tarp layer over the dome, then pile up another 18 in (46 cm) of dirt. 2-5. Pack the earth around the entryways to seal out water. Stack a few shorter roofing poles or sandbags around each entrance. Tie them down tightly with rope or wire. Then, build up the earth around the poles into slopes 6 in (15 cm) deep to drive water away from the entryways. Make the slopes on all sides of each entryway to ensure that rainwater never enters the shelter. 2-6. Hang plastic canopies over the entryways to protect them from water. Extend a plastic tarp from the roof dome over the entryway. Sink a few stakes in the dome, then tie the tarp in place with strong cords or wires. Secure the other end of the tarp to the logs or sandbags stacked in front of the entryway to further waterproof your shelter. Make sure the tarps form a tent shape. They need to form a consistent slope so water rolls away from your shelter. 3. Installing Living Features 3-1. Install a hand-operated ventilation pump in the emergency exit. Choose a ventilation pump with a pipe about 20 in (51 cm) wide and 36 in (91 cm) tall. Place the filter on the floor next to the emergency exit. Then, run the pipe along the crawl space, letting it emerge preferably above the plastic canopy. Always use a pump with an option for manual operation. The pump will run on its own most of the time, but in case of an emergency, you can operate it to keep the shelter’s air clean. 3-2. Set up a toilet in a separate area of the shelter. You have several options for installing toilets. The most efficient way is a composting toilet, similar to what you would see in an RV. You will need to install a ventilation pipe, running it from the toilet to the surface. A good location for the toilet is near the exit furthest from your sleeping quarters. To install the ventilation pipe, run it through the nearest entryway, if possible. You may need to dig through the dirt so the pipe exits above the plastic canopy over the entryway. You can also try joining the pipe to the air pump’s ventilation pipe. Many shelters do not feature running water, so a regular toilet isn’t usually an option. You may not be able to get clean, running water in an emergency, so you may need to install an expensive system of tanks, pipes, and filters if you want more comfort. Another option is to use small plastic toilets or buckets. It isn’t ideal, but it is an effective way to keep your shelter safe and sanitary. Seal the buckets and carry them to the surface as needed. 3-3. Make beds and other furniture for the shelter. With a pole-covered trench shelter, the best way to set up furniture is to make hammocks. Loop strong rope or wire around the ceiling poles. Connect the rope or wire to cloth to create strong but lightweight hammocks. You can also try assembling poles and boards together to create bunk beds. You do not have to buy bulky furniture. Get creative and craft your own furniture or assemble makeshift bedding. For example, you can make a “bed” by piling blankets. Even packing together leaves, pine needle, or hay is a fast, inexpensive way to create a bed. 3-4. Pack food Food and water are the most important supplies, so keep them in abundance. Plan on having at least 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water per person per day. Keep a supply of dry food that will last you about 2 weeks. Also bring along medical supplies, disposal bins, and extra clothing. You will generally need to be in the shelter for around 3 days, but plan on staying up to a month in case of a serious emergency. Get a good first-aid kit that includes bandages, tape, splints, scissors, rubbing alcohol, and any medication you need. For food, bring things that don’t require a lot of preparation, such as lentils, jerky, and military MREs. 4. Making a Shelter in a Building 4-1. Find a room made out of concrete. The best shelter rooms are underground, although you can convert any concrete room into a shelter. A basement is often a great place for a shelter. Also look for concrete office buildings or other protected structures unlikely to collapse during an event. If you have to make an indoors shelter, try to choose a room closer to the middle of the building. This will put as much space between you and the fallout as possible. You can also build a separate concrete room or shelter outside. 4-2. Shield the walls with heavy materials like sandbags. If you have time, stack sandbags near windows and other spots where radiation can leak in. The more you cover the walls, the more protection you have against radiation. Makeshift materials like mattresses, tables, books, and even bags of clothes help during an emergency. 4-3. Stock the shelter with food and other necessities. Plan on keeping enough supplies for at least 3 days. Fill it with clean, bottled water and snacks that don’t require much preparation. Be sure to include medical supplies and prescription medication. You will also need a sanitation bucket. A radio is handy, and you can use it to listen to updates. It may help you decide when leaving the shelter is safe. 4-4. Leave small vents for air at the entrances. Seal up the entrances with sandbags or other resistant material. Leave a small gap so that everyone in the shelter has enough air to breathe. Also consider installing an air ventilation pump. You may be able to connect it to ventilation pipes already installed in the building. Tips Store other necessities, such as vitamin tablets and a first-aid kit. Concrete and rebar are great for keeping out radiation, but making your shelter out of these materials is way more costly and labor-intensive than dirt and wood. If you are unable to dig a trench shelter, look for alternatives. Underground areas are safest. Even a shelter built in a basement is a viable option in an emergency. Warnings It is impossible to predict exactly what you need in case of an emergency. It depends on your unique situation. Do your best to plan for all scenarios. Be careful when building your shelter. You will need to do a lot of digging. The soil can cave in on you if you don’t secure your shelter properly.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Excavating the Soil\\n1-1. Choose a building area on stable ground away from obstructions.\\nWhen a nuclear weapon detonates, it creates a thermal pulse which can set things 20 mi (32 km) away on fire. You can often build a shelter in your backyard if you can position it so that both rainwater and water behind dams runs away from it. You will also need to consider where the utility lines are in your area so you don’t disturb them.\\nTry to select stable ground where trees and buildings won’t fall on your shelter. If you’re in a city, you can build a reinforced shelter in a basement. The concrete can protect you from fallout and falling debris.\\nResearch the topography of your area. Your government’s local land survey office will have them available. Also, check with the emergency response office.\\nAvoid positioning your shelter downhill from bodies of water or below steep slopes. Keep it clear of flammable buildings.\\n1-2. Print out a blueprint for the shelter you want to make.\\nHaving a clear blueprint will help you construct a stable, effective shelter. You can find some basic plans simply by searching for fallout shelter blueprints online. Some plans may even include a step by step overview for building the shelter.\\nYou can also get blueprints by consulting an architect or drafter. They can provide guidance on what shelter best suits your needs. Most building construction companies can build a shelter for you.\\nEven if you don’t want to hire someone to design a shelter, sketch your own plans before beginning construction. You can try using a computer program like SketchUp.\\n1-3. Stake out and clear the building area for construction.\\nPlot out the shelter’s perimeter according to your blueprint. Plant a series of wooden stakes in the ground to outline the shelter’s perimeter. Then, use shovels, axes, and other tools to dig up grass, trees, rocks, and other debris in the area.\\nClear the land about 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the shelter’s perimeter so you have plenty of space to work with.\\nThe shelter’s size is up to you. Expect to add about 3 ft (0.91 m) to the shelter’s length for every person who will hide there. A basic 4-person shelter is about 10 × 10 × 10 ft (3.0 × 3.0 × 3.0 m) in size.\\n1-4. Dig a trench\\nBegin digging out soil to form the basic outline of your shelter. You can do this with shovels, although it takes a lot of time and labor. Move the excavated dirt 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the stakes. You will need to keep the dirt away so it doesn’t fall back into the trench.\\nFor quicker work, rent a backhoe from an equipment company near you. This can get pricey, but speeding up the excavation process is often worth it.\\nDigging a deeper trench means more space and blast protection for your shelter.\\n1-5. Create an emergency exit at the far end of the trench.\\nThe emergency exit will also serve as extra ventilation. At the end of the trench, dig a crawl space about 2 ft (0.61 m) wide and 3 ⁄2 ft (1.1 m) deep. The crawl space will be right below the soil’s surface. Create an exit at the end by digging a small trench to connect the crawl space to the outside world.\\nYou can build dirt steps as needed to reach the surface. Pile dirt near the entryway, then begin digging into it with a shovel. Shape the dirt into small steps. Lay threshold boards over each steps, connecting them to side boards with 10 in (25 cm) lag bolts.\\nAlways have a second exit in your shelter to guard against emergencies.\\n1-6. Make a second crawl-way for the entrance.\\nCreate the main entryway the same way you built the emergency exit. This time, dig on the opposite end of the shelter. You can make this entryway a little wider so you have an easier time entering the shelter. Keep the entryway below ground, emerging away from the shelter’s main living quarters.\\nThe main entrance will not have air pumps or ventilation pipes running through it, so it may appear larger by default.\\n2. Creating the Shelter Roof\\n2-1. Lay wooden roofing poles side by side over the trench.\\nGet poles that overhang the trench by at least 2 ft (0.61 m) so they are less likely to collapse. Lay them across the trench’s width. Push the logs as close together as possible to reduce the gaps in the shelter’s roof.\\nFor example, try using 9 ft (2.7 m) poles over a trench 5 ft (1.5 m) wide.\\nRoofing poles are basically long, uncut pieces of timber. You can get them from lumber yards. Roofing suppliers and home improvement stores may also be able to help.\\n2-2. Stack poles in front of the entryways to keep dirt out of them.\\nLay a few 6 ft (1.8 m) wooden roofing poles between the trench and the edge of each entryway. Use about 3 or 4 logs on each side. Tie them together with strong rope or wire, also binding them to the closest poles hanging over the trench.\\nThese entryway poles hold back the dirt you will use to create the shelter ceiling. If you don’t have them in place, the dirt can slide into the entryways, blocking them.\\n2-3. Waterproof the logs with a tarp or another plastic material.\\nMake sure you cover any gaps between the logs so water and dirt can’t fall into the shelter. You can do this easily by purchasing a tarp large enough to fit over the trench. Also try overlapping a few smaller tarps.\\nYou can also fill the gaps with cloth, leaves, clay, or other alternative materials.\\n2-4. Cover the logs with an 18 in (46 cm) earth dome.\\nBegin moving the excavated dirt back on top of the logs. Make sure the dirt is unable to leak into the living space below the logs. As you pile up the dirt, shape it into a rounded mound ending right before the shelter’s entrances. The mound shape will give your shelter’s roof plenty of stability to prevent it from caving in.\\nFor extra radiation protection, make the dome deeper. Try placing a second plastic tarp layer over the dome, then pile up another 18 in (46 cm) of dirt.\\n2-5. Pack the earth around the entryways to seal out water.\\nStack a few shorter roofing poles or sandbags around each entrance. Tie them down tightly with rope or wire. Then, build up the earth around the poles into slopes 6 in (15 cm) deep to drive water away from the entryways.\\nMake the slopes on all sides of each entryway to ensure that rainwater never enters the shelter.\\n2-6. Hang plastic canopies over the entryways to protect them from water.\\nExtend a plastic tarp from the roof dome over the entryway. Sink a few stakes in the dome, then tie the tarp in place with strong cords or wires. Secure the other end of the tarp to the logs or sandbags stacked in front of the entryway to further waterproof your shelter.\\nMake sure the tarps form a tent shape. They need to form a consistent slope so water rolls away from your shelter.\\n3. Installing Living Features\\n3-1. Install a hand-operated ventilation pump in the emergency exit.\\nChoose a ventilation pump with a pipe about 20 in (51 cm) wide and 36 in (91 cm) tall. Place the filter on the floor next to the emergency exit. Then, run the pipe along the crawl space, letting it emerge preferably above the plastic canopy.\\nAlways use a pump with an option for manual operation. The pump will run on its own most of the time, but in case of an emergency, you can operate it to keep the shelter’s air clean.\\n3-2. Set up a toilet in a separate area of the shelter.\\nYou have several options for installing toilets. The most efficient way is a composting toilet, similar to what you would see in an RV. You will need to install a ventilation pipe, running it from the toilet to the surface. A good location for the toilet is near the exit furthest from your sleeping quarters.\\nTo install the ventilation pipe, run it through the nearest entryway, if possible. You may need to dig through the dirt so the pipe exits above the plastic canopy over the entryway. You can also try joining the pipe to the air pump’s ventilation pipe.\\nMany shelters do not feature running water, so a regular toilet isn’t usually an option. You may not be able to get clean, running water in an emergency, so you may need to install an expensive system of tanks, pipes, and filters if you want more comfort.\\nAnother option is to use small plastic toilets or buckets. It isn’t ideal, but it is an effective way to keep your shelter safe and sanitary. Seal the buckets and carry them to the surface as needed.\\n3-3. Make beds and other furniture for the shelter.\\nWith a pole-covered trench shelter, the best way to set up furniture is to make hammocks. Loop strong rope or wire around the ceiling poles. Connect the rope or wire to cloth to create strong but lightweight hammocks. You can also try assembling poles and boards together to create bunk beds.\\nYou do not have to buy bulky furniture. Get creative and craft your own furniture or assemble makeshift bedding.\\nFor example, you can make a “bed” by piling blankets. Even packing together leaves, pine needle, or hay is a fast, inexpensive way to create a bed.\\n3-4. Pack food\\nFood and water are the most important supplies, so keep them in abundance. Plan on having at least 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water per person per day. Keep a supply of dry food that will last you about 2 weeks. Also bring along medical supplies, disposal bins, and extra clothing.\\nYou will generally need to be in the shelter for around 3 days, but plan on staying up to a month in case of a serious emergency.\\nGet a good first-aid kit that includes bandages, tape, splints, scissors, rubbing alcohol, and any medication you need.\\nFor food, bring things that don’t require a lot of preparation, such as lentils, jerky, and military MREs.\\n4. Making a Shelter in a Building\\n4-1. Find a room made out of concrete.\\nThe best shelter rooms are underground, although you can convert any concrete room into a shelter. A basement is often a great place for a shelter. Also look for concrete office buildings or other protected structures unlikely to collapse during an event.\\nIf you have to make an indoors shelter, try to choose a room closer to the middle of the building. This will put as much space between you and the fallout as possible.\\nYou can also build a separate concrete room or shelter outside.\\n4-2. Shield the walls with heavy materials like sandbags.\\nIf you have time, stack sandbags near windows and other spots where radiation can leak in. The more you cover the walls, the more protection you have against radiation. Makeshift materials like mattresses, tables, books, and even bags of clothes help during an emergency.\\n4-3. Stock the shelter with food and other necessities.\\nPlan on keeping enough supplies for at least 3 days. Fill it with clean, bottled water and snacks that don’t require much preparation. Be sure to include medical supplies and prescription medication. You will also need a sanitation bucket.\\nA radio is handy, and you can use it to listen to updates. It may help you decide when leaving the shelter is safe.\\n4-4. Leave small vents for air at the entrances.\\nSeal up the entrances with sandbags or other resistant material. Leave a small gap so that everyone in the shelter has enough air to breathe.\\nAlso consider installing an air ventilation pump. You may be able to connect it to ventilation pipes already installed in the building.\\nTips\\nStore other necessities, such as vitamin tablets and a first-aid kit.\\nConcrete and rebar are great for keeping out radiation, but making your shelter out of these materials is way more costly and labor-intensive than dirt and wood.\\nIf you are unable to dig a trench shelter, look for alternatives. Underground areas are safest. Even a shelter built in a basement is a viable option in an emergency.\\nWarnings\\nIt is impossible to predict exactly what you need in case of an emergency. It depends on your unique situation. Do your best to plan for all scenarios.\\nBe careful when building your shelter. You will need to do a lot of digging. The soil can cave in on you if you don’t secure your shelter properly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"While experts say nuclear war is unlikely, building a fallout shelter can still help provide peace of mind during these uncertain times. A nuclear fallout shelter, also called a bomb shelter, protects you and your family after a nuclear attack or disaster. You can begin building a simple shelter by digging a trench and covering it with roofing logs and dirt. This type of shelter, called a pole-covered trench shelter, is waterproof and radiation-resistant when constructed properly. Keep reading to learn for a step-by-step walkthrough on exactly how to build a fallout shelter at home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Excavating the Soil\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a building area on stable ground away from obstructions.\", \"描述\": \"When a nuclear weapon detonates, it creates a thermal pulse which can set things 20 mi (32 km) away on fire. You can often build a shelter in your backyard if you can position it so that both rainwater and water behind dams runs away from it. You will also need to consider where the utility lines are in your area so you don’t disturb them.\\nTry to select stable ground where trees and buildings won’t fall on your shelter. If you’re in a city, you can build a reinforced shelter in a basement. The concrete can protect you from fallout and falling debris.\\nResearch the topography of your area. Your government’s local land survey office will have them available. Also, check with the emergency response office.\\nAvoid positioning your shelter downhill from bodies of water or below steep slopes. Keep it clear of flammable buildings.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Print out a blueprint for the shelter you want to make.\", \"描述\": \"Having a clear blueprint will help you construct a stable, effective shelter. You can find some basic plans simply by searching for fallout shelter blueprints online. Some plans may even include a step by step overview for building the shelter.\\nYou can also get blueprints by consulting an architect or drafter. They can provide guidance on what shelter best suits your needs. Most building construction companies can build a shelter for you.\\nEven if you don’t want to hire someone to design a shelter, sketch your own plans before beginning construction. You can try using a computer program like SketchUp.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stake out and clear the building area for construction.\", \"描述\": \"Plot out the shelter’s perimeter according to your blueprint. Plant a series of wooden stakes in the ground to outline the shelter’s perimeter. Then, use shovels, axes, and other tools to dig up grass, trees, rocks, and other debris in the area.\\nClear the land about 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the shelter’s perimeter so you have plenty of space to work with.\\nThe shelter’s size is up to you. Expect to add about 3 ft (0.91 m) to the shelter’s length for every person who will hide there. A basic 4-person shelter is about 10 × 10 × 10 ft (3.0 × 3.0 × 3.0 m) in size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a trench\", \"描述\": \"Begin digging out soil to form the basic outline of your shelter. You can do this with shovels, although it takes a lot of time and labor. Move the excavated dirt 10 ft (3.0 m) beyond the stakes. You will need to keep the dirt away so it doesn’t fall back into the trench.\\nFor quicker work, rent a backhoe from an equipment company near you. This can get pricey, but speeding up the excavation process is often worth it.\\nDigging a deeper trench means more space and blast protection for your shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create an emergency exit at the far end of the trench.\", \"描述\": \"The emergency exit will also serve as extra ventilation. At the end of the trench, dig a crawl space about 2 ft (0.61 m) wide and 3 ⁄2 ft (1.1 m) deep. The crawl space will be right below the soil’s surface. Create an exit at the end by digging a small trench to connect the crawl space to the outside world.\\nYou can build dirt steps as needed to reach the surface. Pile dirt near the entryway, then begin digging into it with a shovel. Shape the dirt into small steps. Lay threshold boards over each steps, connecting them to side boards with 10 in (25 cm) lag bolts.\\nAlways have a second exit in your shelter to guard against emergencies.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a second crawl-way for the entrance.\", \"描述\": \"Create the main entryway the same way you built the emergency exit. This time, dig on the opposite end of the shelter. You can make this entryway a little wider so you have an easier time entering the shelter. Keep the entryway below ground, emerging away from the shelter’s main living quarters.\\nThe main entrance will not have air pumps or ventilation pipes running through it, so it may appear larger by default.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Shelter Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay wooden roofing poles side by side over the trench.\", \"描述\": \"Get poles that overhang the trench by at least 2 ft (0.61 m) so they are less likely to collapse. Lay them across the trench’s width. Push the logs as close together as possible to reduce the gaps in the shelter’s roof.\\nFor example, try using 9 ft (2.7 m) poles over a trench 5 ft (1.5 m) wide.\\nRoofing poles are basically long, uncut pieces of timber. You can get them from lumber yards. Roofing suppliers and home improvement stores may also be able to help.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stack poles in front of the entryways to keep dirt out of them.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a few 6 ft (1.8 m) wooden roofing poles between the trench and the edge of each entryway. Use about 3 or 4 logs on each side. Tie them together with strong rope or wire, also binding them to the closest poles hanging over the trench.\\nThese entryway poles hold back the dirt you will use to create the shelter ceiling. If you don’t have them in place, the dirt can slide into the entryways, blocking them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Waterproof the logs with a tarp or another plastic material.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you cover any gaps between the logs so water and dirt can’t fall into the shelter. You can do this easily by purchasing a tarp large enough to fit over the trench. Also try overlapping a few smaller tarps.\\nYou can also fill the gaps with cloth, leaves, clay, or other alternative materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the logs with an 18 in (46 cm) earth dome.\", \"描述\": \"Begin moving the excavated dirt back on top of the logs. Make sure the dirt is unable to leak into the living space below the logs. As you pile up the dirt, shape it into a rounded mound ending right before the shelter’s entrances. The mound shape will give your shelter’s roof plenty of stability to prevent it from caving in.\\nFor extra radiation protection, make the dome deeper. Try placing a second plastic tarp layer over the dome, then pile up another 18 in (46 cm) of dirt.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pack the earth around the entryways to seal out water.\", \"描述\": \"Stack a few shorter roofing poles or sandbags around each entrance. Tie them down tightly with rope or wire. Then, build up the earth around the poles into slopes 6 in (15 cm) deep to drive water away from the entryways.\\nMake the slopes on all sides of each entryway to ensure that rainwater never enters the shelter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Hang plastic canopies over the entryways to protect them from water.\", \"描述\": \"Extend a plastic tarp from the roof dome over the entryway. Sink a few stakes in the dome, then tie the tarp in place with strong cords or wires. Secure the other end of the tarp to the logs or sandbags stacked in front of the entryway to further waterproof your shelter.\\nMake sure the tarps form a tent shape. They need to form a consistent slope so water rolls away from your shelter.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing Living Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install a hand-operated ventilation pump in the emergency exit.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a ventilation pump with a pipe about 20 in (51 cm) wide and 36 in (91 cm) tall. Place the filter on the floor next to the emergency exit. Then, run the pipe along the crawl space, letting it emerge preferably above the plastic canopy.\\nAlways use a pump with an option for manual operation. The pump will run on its own most of the time, but in case of an emergency, you can operate it to keep the shelter’s air clean.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up a toilet in a separate area of the shelter.\", \"描述\": \"You have several options for installing toilets. The most efficient way is a composting toilet, similar to what you would see in an RV. You will need to install a ventilation pipe, running it from the toilet to the surface. A good location for the toilet is near the exit furthest from your sleeping quarters.\\nTo install the ventilation pipe, run it through the nearest entryway, if possible. You may need to dig through the dirt so the pipe exits above the plastic canopy over the entryway. You can also try joining the pipe to the air pump’s ventilation pipe.\\nMany shelters do not feature running water, so a regular toilet isn’t usually an option. You may not be able to get clean, running water in an emergency, so you may need to install an expensive system of tanks, pipes, and filters if you want more comfort.\\nAnother option is to use small plastic toilets or buckets. It isn’t ideal, but it is an effective way to keep your shelter safe and sanitary. Seal the buckets and carry them to the surface as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make beds and other furniture for the shelter.\", \"描述\": \"With a pole-covered trench shelter, the best way to set up furniture is to make hammocks. Loop strong rope or wire around the ceiling poles. Connect the rope or wire to cloth to create strong but lightweight hammocks. You can also try assembling poles and boards together to create bunk beds.\\nYou do not have to buy bulky furniture. Get creative and craft your own furniture or assemble makeshift bedding.\\nFor example, you can make a “bed” by piling blankets. Even packing together leaves, pine needle, or hay is a fast, inexpensive way to create a bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pack food\", \"描述\": \"Food and water are the most important supplies, so keep them in abundance. Plan on having at least 1 US gal (3.8 L) of water per person per day. Keep a supply of dry food that will last you about 2 weeks. Also bring along medical supplies, disposal bins, and extra clothing.\\nYou will generally need to be in the shelter for around 3 days, but plan on staying up to a month in case of a serious emergency.\\nGet a good first-aid kit that includes bandages, tape, splints, scissors, rubbing alcohol, and any medication you need.\\nFor food, bring things that don’t require a lot of preparation, such as lentils, jerky, and military MREs.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making a Shelter in a Building\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a room made out of concrete.\", \"描述\": \"The best shelter rooms are underground, although you can convert any concrete room into a shelter. A basement is often a great place for a shelter. Also look for concrete office buildings or other protected structures unlikely to collapse during an event.\\nIf you have to make an indoors shelter, try to choose a room closer to the middle of the building. This will put as much space between you and the fallout as possible.\\nYou can also build a separate concrete room or shelter outside.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Shield the walls with heavy materials like sandbags.\", \"描述\": \"If you have time, stack sandbags near windows and other spots where radiation can leak in. The more you cover the walls, the more protection you have against radiation. Makeshift materials like mattresses, tables, books, and even bags of clothes help during an emergency.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stock the shelter with food and other necessities.\", \"描述\": \"Plan on keeping enough supplies for at least 3 days. Fill it with clean, bottled water and snacks that don’t require much preparation. Be sure to include medical supplies and prescription medication. You will also need a sanitation bucket.\\nA radio is handy, and you can use it to listen to updates. It may help you decide when leaving the shelter is safe.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Leave small vents for air at the entrances.\", \"描述\": \"Seal up the entrances with sandbags or other resistant material. Leave a small gap so that everyone in the shelter has enough air to breathe.\\nAlso consider installing an air ventilation pump. You may be able to connect it to ventilation pipes already installed in the building.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Store other necessities, such as vitamin tablets and a first-aid kit.\\n\", \"Concrete and rebar are great for keeping out radiation, but making your shelter out of these materials is way more costly and labor-intensive than dirt and wood.\\n\", \"If you are unable to dig a trench shelter, look for alternatives. Underground areas are safest. Even a shelter built in a basement is a viable option in an emergency.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"It is impossible to predict exactly what you need in case of an emergency. It depends on your unique situation. Do your best to plan for all scenarios.\\n\", \"Be careful when building your shelter. You will need to do a lot of digging. The soil can cave in on you if you don’t secure your shelter properly.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,337
How to Build a Fancy EMP Generator
1. Home Method 1-1. Obtain the components. This EMP generator will require: a 3V power supply, a 470 ohm resistor, a resistor of resistance R, an LED, a single pole double throw switch (look it up), a length of insulated wire, a big iron nail (the bigger the better), and a super capacitor (available from Maplin for less than a tenner) of capacitance C. Oh, and enough wires and solder/crocodile clips to connect everything together. 1-2. Wrap the wire around the nail. The more turns the better. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wire to allow you to connect it to the circuit. 1-3. Wire up the circuit. The diagram pretty much says it all. 1-4. Flick the switch towards the battery to charge. This is what the LED is for: it indicates that the generator is charging. The charging time (in seconds) is about 5RC. This should influence your choice of resistor R. If you are using a 1F capacitor, a ten ohm resistor in place of R will give a charging time of about 50 seconds. If you use the same resistor with a 360F capacitor, it'll take 5 hours to charge. Choose the resistor with care. 1-5. Flick the switch towards the coil to fire. If you get a really big switch and a servant with a lisp, it's the perfect opportunity to yell, "Igor, pull the switch!" 2. Nuclear Method 2-1. Obtain the components. You will need enough metal to form a bomb casing, explosive lenses, enough enriched uranium or plutonium to produce (at least) a 10 kiloton explosion, and a rocket, launch pad and satellite to get the stuff into space. oh, almost forgot - you'll need a radio detonator for the explosives, with enough range to send a signal into space. 2-2. Use the first three components to build an atom bomb. The explosion from the bomb will create a very big, high-power EMP. Connect the bomb to the detonator. 2-3. Put the bomb on the satellite. 2-4. Put the satellite on the rocket and launch the whole thing into a low-earth orbit. 2-5. Maneuver the satellite into position. Make sure that any space stations and other satellites and stuff are outside the blast radius. 2-6. Detonate the bomb. The gamma rays from the explosion will interact with the Earth's atmosphere and magnetic field and generate an EMP. If you build a big enough bomb, the EMP can affect an entire continent. Warnings EMPs can destroy electrical equipment. It's OK if the equipment is yours, but it's illegal to destroy other people's without their permission.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Home Method\\n1-1. Obtain the components.\\nThis EMP generator will require: a 3V power supply, a 470 ohm resistor, a resistor of resistance R, an LED, a single pole double throw switch (look it up), a length of insulated wire, a big iron nail (the bigger the better), and a super capacitor (available from Maplin for less than a tenner) of capacitance C. Oh, and enough wires and solder/crocodile clips to connect everything together.\\n1-2. Wrap the wire around the nail.\\nThe more turns the better. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wire to allow you to connect it to the circuit.\\n1-3. Wire up the circuit.\\nThe diagram pretty much says it all.\\n1-4. Flick the switch towards the battery to charge.\\nThis is what the LED is for: it indicates that the generator is charging. The charging time (in seconds) is about 5RC. This should influence your choice of resistor R. If you are using a 1F capacitor, a ten ohm resistor in place of R will give a charging time of about 50 seconds. If you use the same resistor with a 360F capacitor, it'll take 5 hours to charge. Choose the resistor with care.\\n1-5. Flick the switch towards the coil to fire.\\nIf you get a really big switch and a servant with a lisp, it's the perfect opportunity to yell, \\\"Igor, pull the switch!\\\"\\n2. Nuclear Method\\n2-1. Obtain the components.\\nYou will need enough metal to form a bomb casing, explosive lenses, enough enriched uranium or plutonium to produce (at least) a 10 kiloton explosion, and a rocket, launch pad and satellite to get the stuff into space. oh, almost forgot - you'll need a radio detonator for the explosives, with enough range to send a signal into space.\\n2-2. Use the first three components to build an atom bomb.\\nThe explosion from the bomb will create a very big, high-power EMP. Connect the bomb to the detonator.\\n2-3. Put the bomb on the satellite.\\n\\n2-4. Put the satellite on the rocket and launch the whole thing into a low-earth orbit.\\n\\n2-5. Maneuver the satellite into position.\\nMake sure that any space stations and other satellites and stuff are outside the blast radius.\\n2-6. Detonate the bomb.\\nThe gamma rays from the explosion will interact with the Earth's atmosphere and magnetic field and generate an EMP. If you build a big enough bomb, the EMP can affect an entire continent.\\nWarnings\\nEMPs can destroy electrical equipment. It's OK if the equipment is yours, but it's illegal to destroy other people's without their permission.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You've seen EMPs in movies: the guy pushes a switch, there's a big flash and everything turns off. Well, now you can do it as well! Here's two methods of generating an electromagnetic pulse: the first you can do at home with some electronics components; the second requires substantial wealth and power.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Home Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain the components.\", \"描述\": \"This EMP generator will require: a 3V power supply, a 470 ohm resistor, a resistor of resistance R, an LED, a single pole double throw switch (look it up), a length of insulated wire, a big iron nail (the bigger the better), and a super capacitor (available from Maplin for less than a tenner) of capacitance C. Oh, and enough wires and solder/crocodile clips to connect everything together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the wire around the nail.\", \"描述\": \"The more turns the better. Strip the insulation from the ends of the wire to allow you to connect it to the circuit.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wire up the circuit.\", \"描述\": \"The diagram pretty much says it all.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Flick the switch towards the battery to charge.\", \"描述\": \"This is what the LED is for: it indicates that the generator is charging. The charging time (in seconds) is about 5RC. This should influence your choice of resistor R. If you are using a 1F capacitor, a ten ohm resistor in place of R will give a charging time of about 50 seconds. If you use the same resistor with a 360F capacitor, it'll take 5 hours to charge. Choose the resistor with care.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Flick the switch towards the coil to fire.\", \"描述\": \"If you get a really big switch and a servant with a lisp, it's the perfect opportunity to yell, \\\"Igor, pull the switch!\\\"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Nuclear Method\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain the components.\", \"描述\": \"You will need enough metal to form a bomb casing, explosive lenses, enough enriched uranium or plutonium to produce (at least) a 10 kiloton explosion, and a rocket, launch pad and satellite to get the stuff into space. oh, almost forgot - you'll need a radio detonator for the explosives, with enough range to send a signal into space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use the first three components to build an atom bomb.\", \"描述\": \"The explosion from the bomb will create a very big, high-power EMP. Connect the bomb to the detonator.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the bomb on the satellite.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the satellite on the rocket and launch the whole thing into a low-earth orbit.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Maneuver the satellite into position.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that any space stations and other satellites and stuff are outside the blast radius.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Detonate the bomb.\", \"描述\": \"The gamma rays from the explosion will interact with the Earth's atmosphere and magnetic field and generate an EMP. If you build a big enough bomb, the EMP can affect an entire continent.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"EMPs can destroy electrical equipment. It's OK if the equipment is yours, but it's illegal to destroy other people's without their permission.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,338
How to Build a Fast Shelter in the Wilderness
1. Building a Shelter in a Wooded Area 1-1. Look for natural shelter features. Search in your immediate wilderness area for land features that could act as shelter. These will be the fastest forms of shelter you can make. Look for is a durable surface to place your tent that is not going to have a lasting impact on the area that you're camping in such as tough rocks, or dirt with no vegetation. You want to choose a spot at least 200 feet away from the nearest water source so that all of your cooking and bathroom habits don't contaminate that water. Caves or rock outcroppings that hang over your head are simple natural shelters. Build a fire in the entrance to a rock dwelling, to smoke out any critters living inside. A fire can also warm rocks you can then put around your body for warmth while sleeping. Look for large fallen trees, which can offer shelter if there is space between the trunk and the ground. Prop branches against either side of the trunk like a tent for more protection. Cover the branches with leaves and brush for more warmth. 1-2. Look for two close trees for a lean-to. Build a classic lean-to shelter by first finding two trees that are growing close together, about the height of your own body or slightly longer. Then put a long branch between the trees, or a rope if you have one. Look for a tree with low “forks” where the trunk or larger boughs branch off from one another. The ideal situation is a tree that forms a “Y” shape with its trunk and branches, where you can simply rest your branch, called a “ridgepole,” into them. If you cannot find two close trees, rest one end of the ridgepole on the ground and the other in or against a tree. Lay branches at a 45° angle onto the ridgepole on one side. Then cover crosswise with more branches, brush, leaves, snow, etc. until the wall is several inches or even feet thick. 1-3. Build a small a-frame or debris hut. Find a tree with a low crook, a sturdy boulder, or a stump to create a small shelter just large enough for your body. Rest one end of a large branch onto the tree, rock, or stump, with the other end on the ground. Choose a main branch (ridgepole) long enough to create a space large enough for you to lay down once you lean the branch against a tree or rock. Lay branches at an angle against the ridgepole on both sides. Then, cover the structure with smaller branches, leaves, and other brush, laid crosswise on the first branches so they don’t fall through. The thicker the walls the better! Keep a pile of brush outside the entrance that you can use to partially cover the opening once you’re inside. As a fast last-resort shelter, create a debris hut by simply piling debris from the forest floor, then creating a hole in the pile that's large enough for your body. Partially cover the entrance once you’re inside to create warmth. 2. Building a Plastic Sheeting Shelter 2-1. Build a tarp tent or lean-to. Construct the base of a regular lean-to by finding two close trees and resting a long branch in between them, or tying a rope across if you have one. Then drape a tarp over the branch on one or both sides and weight it down on the ground with rocks, logs, dirt, or snow. If you don’t have a standard tarp, construct a shelter with a poncho, garbage bags, a space/emergency blanket, or other plastic sheeting available. If you have enough tarp material, lay the tarp over the ground inside the shelter for better protection. For an a-frame tent, form a full triangle with the tarp, making the ridgepole the top point of the frame. 2-2. Make a small a-frame with a tarp or blanket. Construct a typical a-frame by propping one end of a large branch against a low crook of a tree, rock, or stump to make a shelter just large enough for your body. Then drape plastic sheeting of any kind you have over the ridgepole with equal lengths on either side, and secure to the ground with heavy objects. Small a-frames are suited to one person for maximum warmth, so they also work well if you have a smaller poncho, garbage bags, or space blanket rather than a large tarp. You can also construct an a-frame with branches and brush for the walls as you would if you didn’t have any other materials. Then, use a tarp or other plastic sheeting to cover walls for extra warmth and protection. 2-3. Make a tube tent out of trash bags. Build a simple tube tent if you have at least two large trash bags. Split the bottom of one bag, and slide it partly over the open end of the other bag to make one longer tube. String up the tube between two trees, rocks, or other structures with a long branch or a rope if you have one. You can also prop the tube open with branches and brush, or simply crawl into it for sufficient protection. 3. Building a Snow or Sand Shelter 3-1. Dig a shelter into the snow around a tree. Build a tree-pit snow shelter if you are in a wilderness area with deep snow and evergreen trees, and you have a tool to dig with. Dig around the tree to the ground level to create a shelter where the branches act as a roof. Look for an evergreen tree that has thick, bushy branches that extend wide from the tree for the best overhead coverage. Dig down in a circle around the trunk, no wider than the tree’s branches. Dig to a level you can comfortably sit or lay down into, or until you reach the ground. Pack down the snow at the top and sides of your hole to prevent any caving in. Cut or break off evergreen branches to line the bottom of the hole and provide thicker overhead coverage if needed. 3-2. Build a snow cave. Mound up snow and carve out a space big enough for your body to create a small cave that will insulate you from wind and snowstorms. Make a snow pile a few feet longer than your body height and tall enough that you can dig into it without the top collapsing. After building a mound of snow, let it sit for several hours or pack it down. Packing it down and letting it solidify will make it easier to dig a cave without the snow collapsing. Dig down and into the snow until you have a corridor long and wide enough to fit your whole body inside. Make sure all walls of the cave remain about a foot thick to prevent them from collapsing. Line the inside with evergreen branches for insulation and comfort. You can also close the entrance with more branches. Use a shovel for the most efficient digging tool. If you don't have a shovel, use a cup or bowl, ski or snowshoe, or other sturdy item. 3-3. Dig a pit in a desert or beach. Access cooler temperatures in the sand and protect yourself from the sun and wind by digging a trench into the sand. Cover the pit with any plastic sheeting you may have, or sand supported by driftwood or branches. Dig out a trench long enough for your body and as low as possible, running north to south so it gets as little sun as possible throughout the day. Mound up sand on three sides of the trench to make a deeper pit. Then, lay a tarp or other plastic sheeting over the mounds and weigh it down with sand. Alternatively, put down driftwood, branches, or another flat material to support sand for a roof. Make sure you build your sand pit well above the water line or high tide mark if you’re on a beach. Tips The smaller the shelter, the warmer it will be, as there is less air to warm with your body heat. In any shelter, use extra branches, leaves, and brush to create a “bed” for resting or sleeping. This creates more insulation against the outside cold/heat, as well as more comfort. Make your shelter visible if you want to be seen by potential rescuers by attaching any bright-colored items you might have to the outside of your shelter. Warnings Use sturdy branches that are not wet or rotting when constructing wooded shelters. Survival shelters are used for dangerous emergency situations in the wilderness. While you may choose to build a rough shelter recreationally, you should never plan to rely on one. Always bring maps, adequate clothing and water, and all other materials necessary to navigate wilderness in any weather, and prevent a situation for which you’d need to build a shelter quickly for survival. Be aware of potential dangers in the area you plan to build a shelter. Don’t build in an area prone to a rockslide or avalanche, or under trees with dead or loose branches.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Shelter in a Wooded Area\\n1-1. Look for natural shelter features.\\nSearch in your immediate wilderness area for land features that could act as shelter. These will be the fastest forms of shelter you can make.\\nLook for is a durable surface to place your tent that is not going to have a lasting impact on the area that you're camping in such as tough rocks, or dirt with no vegetation.\\nYou want to choose a spot at least 200 feet away from the nearest water source so that all of your cooking and bathroom habits don't contaminate that water.\\nCaves or rock outcroppings that hang over your head are simple natural shelters.\\nBuild a fire in the entrance to a rock dwelling, to smoke out any critters living inside.\\nA fire can also warm rocks you can then put around your body for warmth while sleeping.\\nLook for large fallen trees, which can offer shelter if there is space between the trunk and the ground.\\nProp branches against either side of the trunk like a tent for more protection.\\nCover the branches with leaves and brush for more warmth.\\n1-2. Look for two close trees for a lean-to.\\nBuild a classic lean-to shelter by first finding two trees that are growing close together, about the height of your own body or slightly longer. Then put a long branch between the trees, or a rope if you have one.\\nLook for a tree with low “forks” where the trunk or larger boughs branch off from one another.\\nThe ideal situation is a tree that forms a “Y” shape with its trunk and branches, where you can simply rest your branch, called a “ridgepole,” into them.\\nIf you cannot find two close trees, rest one end of the ridgepole on the ground and the other in or against a tree.\\nLay branches at a 45° angle onto the ridgepole on one side.\\nThen cover crosswise with more branches, brush, leaves, snow, etc. until the wall is several inches or even feet thick.\\n1-3. Build a small a-frame or debris hut.\\nFind a tree with a low crook, a sturdy boulder, or a stump to create a small shelter just large enough for your body. Rest one end of a large branch onto the tree, rock, or stump, with the other end on the ground.\\nChoose a main branch (ridgepole) long enough to create a space large enough for you to lay down once you lean the branch against a tree or rock.\\nLay branches at an angle against the ridgepole on both sides.\\nThen, cover the structure with smaller branches, leaves, and other brush, laid crosswise on the first branches so they don’t fall through.\\nThe thicker the walls the better!\\nKeep a pile of brush outside the entrance that you can use to partially cover the opening once you’re inside.\\nAs a fast last-resort shelter, create a debris hut by simply piling debris from the forest floor, then creating a hole in the pile that's large enough for your body.\\nPartially cover the entrance once you’re inside to create warmth.\\n2. Building a Plastic Sheeting Shelter\\n2-1. Build a tarp tent or lean-to.\\nConstruct the base of a regular lean-to by finding two close trees and resting a long branch in between them, or tying a rope across if you have one. Then drape a tarp over the branch on one or both sides and weight it down on the ground with rocks, logs, dirt, or snow.\\nIf you don’t have a standard tarp, construct a shelter with a poncho, garbage bags, a space/emergency blanket, or other plastic sheeting available.\\nIf you have enough tarp material, lay the tarp over the ground inside the shelter for better protection.\\nFor an a-frame tent, form a full triangle with the tarp, making the ridgepole the top point of the frame.\\n2-2. Make a small a-frame with a tarp or blanket.\\nConstruct a typical a-frame by propping one end of a large branch against a low crook of a tree, rock, or stump to make a shelter just large enough for your body. Then drape plastic sheeting of any kind you have over the ridgepole with equal lengths on either side, and secure to the ground with heavy objects.\\nSmall a-frames are suited to one person for maximum warmth, so they also work well if you have a smaller poncho, garbage bags, or space blanket rather than a large tarp.\\nYou can also construct an a-frame with branches and brush for the walls as you would if you didn’t have any other materials.\\nThen, use a tarp or other plastic sheeting to cover walls for extra warmth and protection.\\n2-3. Make a tube tent out of trash bags.\\nBuild a simple tube tent if you have at least two large trash bags. Split the bottom of one bag, and slide it partly over the open end of the other bag to make one longer tube.\\nString up the tube between two trees, rocks, or other structures with a long branch or a rope if you have one.\\nYou can also prop the tube open with branches and brush, or simply crawl into it for sufficient protection.\\n3. Building a Snow or Sand Shelter\\n3-1. Dig a shelter into the snow around a tree.\\nBuild a tree-pit snow shelter if you are in a wilderness area with deep snow and evergreen trees, and you have a tool to dig with. Dig around the tree to the ground level to create a shelter where the branches act as a roof.\\nLook for an evergreen tree that has thick, bushy branches that extend wide from the tree for the best overhead coverage.\\nDig down in a circle around the trunk, no wider than the tree’s branches.\\nDig to a level you can comfortably sit or lay down into, or until you reach the ground.\\nPack down the snow at the top and sides of your hole to prevent any caving in.\\nCut or break off evergreen branches to line the bottom of the hole and provide thicker overhead coverage if needed.\\n3-2. Build a snow cave.\\nMound up snow and carve out a space big enough for your body to create a small cave that will insulate you from wind and snowstorms. Make a snow pile a few feet longer than your body height and tall enough that you can dig into it without the top collapsing.\\nAfter building a mound of snow, let it sit for several hours or pack it down.\\nPacking it down and letting it solidify will make it easier to dig a cave without the snow collapsing.\\nDig down and into the snow until you have a corridor long and wide enough to fit your whole body inside.\\nMake sure all walls of the cave remain about a foot thick to prevent them from collapsing.\\nLine the inside with evergreen branches for insulation and comfort. You can also close the entrance with more branches.\\nUse a shovel for the most efficient digging tool.\\nIf you don't have a shovel, use a cup or bowl, ski or snowshoe, or other sturdy item.\\n3-3. Dig a pit in a desert or beach.\\nAccess cooler temperatures in the sand and protect yourself from the sun and wind by digging a trench into the sand. Cover the pit with any plastic sheeting you may have, or sand supported by driftwood or branches.\\nDig out a trench long enough for your body and as low as possible, running north to south so it gets as little sun as possible throughout the day.\\nMound up sand on three sides of the trench to make a deeper pit.\\nThen, lay a tarp or other plastic sheeting over the mounds and weigh it down with sand.\\nAlternatively, put down driftwood, branches, or another flat material to support sand for a roof.\\nMake sure you build your sand pit well above the water line or high tide mark if you’re on a beach.\\nTips\\nThe smaller the shelter, the warmer it will be, as there is less air to warm with your body heat.\\nIn any shelter, use extra branches, leaves, and brush to create a “bed” for resting or sleeping. This creates more insulation against the outside cold/heat, as well as more comfort.\\nMake your shelter visible if you want to be seen by potential rescuers by attaching any bright-colored items you might have to the outside of your shelter.\\nWarnings\\nUse sturdy branches that are not wet or rotting when constructing wooded shelters.\\nSurvival shelters are used for dangerous emergency situations in the wilderness. While you may choose to build a rough shelter recreationally, you should never plan to rely on one. Always bring maps, adequate clothing and water, and all other materials necessary to navigate wilderness in any weather, and prevent a situation for which you’d need to build a shelter quickly for survival.\\nBe aware of potential dangers in the area you plan to build a shelter. Don’t build in an area prone to a rockslide or avalanche, or under trees with dead or loose branches.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you ever find yourself lost or stranded in the wilderness, one of the essentials for safety and survival, even for a short amount of time, is a makeshift shelter. A shelter protects you from the elements: it keeps you warm in cold and snowy areas to prevent hypothermia; it shades you from extreme sun and heat to prevent dehydration and heat stroke; and it shields against wind, rain, or snow in a storm. Learn how to quickly put together a basic shelter that will protect you in the wilderness.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Shelter in a Wooded Area\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for natural shelter features.\", \"描述\": \"Search in your immediate wilderness area for land features that could act as shelter. These will be the fastest forms of shelter you can make.\\nLook for is a durable surface to place your tent that is not going to have a lasting impact on the area that you're camping in such as tough rocks, or dirt with no vegetation.\\nYou want to choose a spot at least 200 feet away from the nearest water source so that all of your cooking and bathroom habits don't contaminate that water.\\nCaves or rock outcroppings that hang over your head are simple natural shelters.\\nBuild a fire in the entrance to a rock dwelling, to smoke out any critters living inside.\\nA fire can also warm rocks you can then put around your body for warmth while sleeping.\\nLook for large fallen trees, which can offer shelter if there is space between the trunk and the ground.\\nProp branches against either side of the trunk like a tent for more protection.\\nCover the branches with leaves and brush for more warmth.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Look for two close trees for a lean-to.\", \"描述\": \"Build a classic lean-to shelter by first finding two trees that are growing close together, about the height of your own body or slightly longer. Then put a long branch between the trees, or a rope if you have one.\\nLook for a tree with low “forks” where the trunk or larger boughs branch off from one another.\\nThe ideal situation is a tree that forms a “Y” shape with its trunk and branches, where you can simply rest your branch, called a “ridgepole,” into them.\\nIf you cannot find two close trees, rest one end of the ridgepole on the ground and the other in or against a tree.\\nLay branches at a 45° angle onto the ridgepole on one side.\\nThen cover crosswise with more branches, brush, leaves, snow, etc. until the wall is several inches or even feet thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build a small a-frame or debris hut.\", \"描述\": \"Find a tree with a low crook, a sturdy boulder, or a stump to create a small shelter just large enough for your body. Rest one end of a large branch onto the tree, rock, or stump, with the other end on the ground.\\nChoose a main branch (ridgepole) long enough to create a space large enough for you to lay down once you lean the branch against a tree or rock.\\nLay branches at an angle against the ridgepole on both sides.\\nThen, cover the structure with smaller branches, leaves, and other brush, laid crosswise on the first branches so they don’t fall through.\\nThe thicker the walls the better!\\nKeep a pile of brush outside the entrance that you can use to partially cover the opening once you’re inside.\\nAs a fast last-resort shelter, create a debris hut by simply piling debris from the forest floor, then creating a hole in the pile that's large enough for your body.\\nPartially cover the entrance once you’re inside to create warmth.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Plastic Sheeting Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a tarp tent or lean-to.\", \"描述\": \"Construct the base of a regular lean-to by finding two close trees and resting a long branch in between them, or tying a rope across if you have one. Then drape a tarp over the branch on one or both sides and weight it down on the ground with rocks, logs, dirt, or snow.\\nIf you don’t have a standard tarp, construct a shelter with a poncho, garbage bags, a space/emergency blanket, or other plastic sheeting available.\\nIf you have enough tarp material, lay the tarp over the ground inside the shelter for better protection.\\nFor an a-frame tent, form a full triangle with the tarp, making the ridgepole the top point of the frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a small a-frame with a tarp or blanket.\", \"描述\": \"Construct a typical a-frame by propping one end of a large branch against a low crook of a tree, rock, or stump to make a shelter just large enough for your body. Then drape plastic sheeting of any kind you have over the ridgepole with equal lengths on either side, and secure to the ground with heavy objects.\\nSmall a-frames are suited to one person for maximum warmth, so they also work well if you have a smaller poncho, garbage bags, or space blanket rather than a large tarp.\\nYou can also construct an a-frame with branches and brush for the walls as you would if you didn’t have any other materials.\\nThen, use a tarp or other plastic sheeting to cover walls for extra warmth and protection.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a tube tent out of trash bags.\", \"描述\": \"Build a simple tube tent if you have at least two large trash bags. Split the bottom of one bag, and slide it partly over the open end of the other bag to make one longer tube.\\nString up the tube between two trees, rocks, or other structures with a long branch or a rope if you have one.\\nYou can also prop the tube open with branches and brush, or simply crawl into it for sufficient protection.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Snow or Sand Shelter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a shelter into the snow around a tree.\", \"描述\": \"Build a tree-pit snow shelter if you are in a wilderness area with deep snow and evergreen trees, and you have a tool to dig with. Dig around the tree to the ground level to create a shelter where the branches act as a roof.\\nLook for an evergreen tree that has thick, bushy branches that extend wide from the tree for the best overhead coverage.\\nDig down in a circle around the trunk, no wider than the tree’s branches.\\nDig to a level you can comfortably sit or lay down into, or until you reach the ground.\\nPack down the snow at the top and sides of your hole to prevent any caving in.\\nCut or break off evergreen branches to line the bottom of the hole and provide thicker overhead coverage if needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a snow cave.\", \"描述\": \"Mound up snow and carve out a space big enough for your body to create a small cave that will insulate you from wind and snowstorms. Make a snow pile a few feet longer than your body height and tall enough that you can dig into it without the top collapsing.\\nAfter building a mound of snow, let it sit for several hours or pack it down.\\nPacking it down and letting it solidify will make it easier to dig a cave without the snow collapsing.\\nDig down and into the snow until you have a corridor long and wide enough to fit your whole body inside.\\nMake sure all walls of the cave remain about a foot thick to prevent them from collapsing.\\nLine the inside with evergreen branches for insulation and comfort. You can also close the entrance with more branches.\\nUse a shovel for the most efficient digging tool.\\nIf you don't have a shovel, use a cup or bowl, ski or snowshoe, or other sturdy item.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig a pit in a desert or beach.\", \"描述\": \"Access cooler temperatures in the sand and protect yourself from the sun and wind by digging a trench into the sand. Cover the pit with any plastic sheeting you may have, or sand supported by driftwood or branches.\\nDig out a trench long enough for your body and as low as possible, running north to south so it gets as little sun as possible throughout the day.\\nMound up sand on three sides of the trench to make a deeper pit.\\nThen, lay a tarp or other plastic sheeting over the mounds and weigh it down with sand.\\nAlternatively, put down driftwood, branches, or another flat material to support sand for a roof.\\nMake sure you build your sand pit well above the water line or high tide mark if you’re on a beach.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The smaller the shelter, the warmer it will be, as there is less air to warm with your body heat.\\n\", \"In any shelter, use extra branches, leaves, and brush to create a “bed” for resting or sleeping. This creates more insulation against the outside cold/heat, as well as more comfort.\\n\", \"Make your shelter visible if you want to be seen by potential rescuers by attaching any bright-colored items you might have to the outside of your shelter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use sturdy branches that are not wet or rotting when constructing wooded shelters.\\n\", \"Survival shelters are used for dangerous emergency situations in the wilderness. While you may choose to build a rough shelter recreationally, you should never plan to rely on one. Always bring maps, adequate clothing and water, and all other materials necessary to navigate wilderness in any weather, and prevent a situation for which you’d need to build a shelter quickly for survival.\\n\", \"Be aware of potential dangers in the area you plan to build a shelter. Don’t build in an area prone to a rockslide or avalanche, or under trees with dead or loose branches.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,339
How to Build a Ferrocement Tank
1. Wall Construction Directions 1-1. Cut the chicken wire/hexagonal wire mesh using the wire cutters. The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh. 1-2. Cut the electro-welded mesh using the bolt cutters. The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh. 1-3. Lay the chicken wire and electro-welded mesh flat to create layers. The layering should be as follows: 2 layers of chicken wire, 1 layer of electro-welded mesh, 2 layers of chicken wire. 1-4. Using wire ties and the pliers, fasten the flat layers of mesh together. 1-5. Know that once the mesh layers are securely fastened, roll one end of the mesh to the other and attach the two ends together using the wire ties. This will create the circular body structure of the tank walls. 1-6. Stand the mesh frame upright on the tank foundation and attach, using the wire ties, the frame to rebar protruding from the tank foundation. 1-7. Tie the reinforcement wire near the top of the mesh frame and connect the wire to the ground. Be sure that the wire is in tension. This will prevent the walls from buckling during the construction and concrete curing stages. Four reinforcement wires around the perimeter of the frame are sufficient. 1-8. Place scrap pipes as form placeholders for the inflow, outflow, overflow, and drainage pipe locations. 1-9. Slap the concrete mortar onto the outside of the mesh frame. The mortar should be applied so that the holes of the mesh are completely filled. 1-10. Allow the mortar to cure. 1-11. Repeat step 9 with the inside of the mesh frame. Use a ladder when climbing in and out of the tank structure. 1-12. Allow the mortar to cure. Keep the walls wet during the curing process. Once all the mortar has been applied, the walls will be about 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick. 2. Roof Construction Directions 2-1. Cut the wood boards so that one edge is curved outward. This can be done while the tank walls are curing. The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the forms. 2-2. Once the walls are fully cured, position the wood beams inside the tank. One log will be the center pole sticking up vertically from the center of the foundation. Two logs will be cross bars near to the top of the walls to support the wooden roof forms. Additional vertical logs will also be used to support the wooden roof forms; these logs should be placed along the inside circumference of the walls. 2-3. Nail the cut wood board forms to the support poles. The wood will create a domed roof form. 2-4. Nail the plywood sheets flat against the wood board forms. 2-5. Leave one square space open in the forms. This will provide the tank lid opening. 2-6. Lay concentric circle of rebar on top of the plywood sheets. 2-7. Tie supporting wires to the rebar circles using wire ties. The wires should run from the dome center down to the base of the roof. 2-8. Place and tie chicken wire mesh to the supporting wires. 2-9. Slap concrete mortar mixture onto the roof forms. Be sure that enough concrete gets below the rebar circles. 2-10. Allow the concrete to cure. Keep the concrete wet during this process. 2-11. Once the concrete has cured, enter the tank through the open square space. 2-12. Carefully remove the wood beams, forms and plywood. 2-13. Paint the inside of the tank with the waterproof sealant. 2-14. Install the square metal lid into the open space of to roof. 2-15. Optional: Paint the walls and roof of the ferrocement tank with any desired color. Warnings Caution: When working with concrete, the necessary safety precautions must be taken. Gloves, safety goggles, and face masks should be worn.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Wall Construction Directions\\n1-1. Cut the chicken wire/hexagonal wire mesh using the wire cutters.\\nThe tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh.\\n1-2. Cut the electro-welded mesh using the bolt cutters.\\nThe tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh.\\n1-3. Lay the chicken wire and electro-welded mesh flat to create layers.\\nThe layering should be as follows: 2 layers of chicken wire, 1 layer of electro-welded mesh, 2 layers of chicken wire.\\n1-4. Using wire ties and the pliers, fasten the flat layers of mesh together.\\n\\n1-5. Know that once the mesh layers are securely fastened, roll one end of the mesh to the other and attach the two ends together using the wire ties.\\nThis will create the circular body structure of the tank walls.\\n1-6. Stand the mesh frame upright on the tank foundation and attach, using the wire ties, the frame to rebar protruding from the tank foundation.\\n\\n1-7. Tie the reinforcement wire near the top of the mesh frame and connect the wire to the ground.\\nBe sure that the wire is in tension. This will prevent the walls from buckling during the construction and concrete curing stages. Four reinforcement wires around the perimeter of the frame are sufficient.\\n1-8. Place scrap pipes as form placeholders for the inflow, outflow, overflow, and drainage pipe locations.\\n\\n1-9. Slap the concrete mortar onto the outside of the mesh frame.\\nThe mortar should be applied so that the holes of the mesh are completely filled.\\n1-10. Allow the mortar to cure.\\n\\n1-11. Repeat step 9 with the inside of the mesh frame.\\nUse a ladder when climbing in and out of the tank structure.\\n1-12. Allow the mortar to cure.\\nKeep the walls wet during the curing process. Once all the mortar has been applied, the walls will be about 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick.\\n2. Roof Construction Directions\\n2-1. Cut the wood boards so that one edge is curved outward.\\nThis can be done while the tank walls are curing. The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the forms.\\n2-2. Once the walls are fully cured, position the wood beams inside the tank.\\nOne log will be the center pole sticking up vertically from the center of the foundation. Two logs will be cross bars near to the top of the walls to support the wooden roof forms. Additional vertical logs will also be used to support the wooden roof forms; these logs should be placed along the inside circumference of the walls.\\n2-3. Nail the cut wood board forms to the support poles.\\nThe wood will create a domed roof form.\\n2-4. Nail the plywood sheets flat against the wood board forms.\\n\\n2-5. Leave one square space open in the forms.\\nThis will provide the tank lid opening.\\n2-6. Lay concentric circle of rebar on top of the plywood sheets.\\n\\n2-7. Tie supporting wires to the rebar circles using wire ties.\\nThe wires should run from the dome center down to the base of the roof.\\n2-8. Place and tie chicken wire mesh to the supporting wires.\\n\\n2-9. Slap concrete mortar mixture onto the roof forms.\\nBe sure that enough concrete gets below the rebar circles.\\n2-10. Allow the concrete to cure.\\nKeep the concrete wet during this process.\\n2-11. Once the concrete has cured, enter the tank through the open square space.\\n\\n2-12. Carefully remove the wood beams, forms and plywood.\\n\\n2-13. Paint the inside of the tank with the waterproof sealant.\\n\\n2-14. Install the square metal lid into the open space of to roof.\\n\\n2-15. Optional:\\nPaint the walls and roof of the ferrocement tank with any desired color.\\nWarnings\\nCaution: When working with concrete, the necessary safety precautions must be taken. Gloves, safety goggles, and face masks should be worn.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Ferrocement water tanks are durable, inexpensive, and easy to build. Keep reading for tips on how to take on this project yourself!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Wall Construction Directions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the chicken wire/hexagonal wire mesh using the wire cutters.\", \"描述\": \"The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the electro-welded mesh using the bolt cutters.\", \"描述\": \"The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the mesh.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay the chicken wire and electro-welded mesh flat to create layers.\", \"描述\": \"The layering should be as follows: 2 layers of chicken wire, 1 layer of electro-welded mesh, 2 layers of chicken wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Using wire ties and the pliers, fasten the flat layers of mesh together.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Know that once the mesh layers are securely fastened, roll one end of the mesh to the other and attach the two ends together using the wire ties.\", \"描述\": \"This will create the circular body structure of the tank walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stand the mesh frame upright on the tank foundation and attach, using the wire ties, the frame to rebar protruding from the tank foundation.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tie the reinforcement wire near the top of the mesh frame and connect the wire to the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure that the wire is in tension. This will prevent the walls from buckling during the construction and concrete curing stages. Four reinforcement wires around the perimeter of the frame are sufficient.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place scrap pipes as form placeholders for the inflow, outflow, overflow, and drainage pipe locations.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Slap the concrete mortar onto the outside of the mesh frame.\", \"描述\": \"The mortar should be applied so that the holes of the mesh are completely filled.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Allow the mortar to cure.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Repeat step 9 with the inside of the mesh frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use a ladder when climbing in and out of the tank structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Allow the mortar to cure.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the walls wet during the curing process. Once all the mortar has been applied, the walls will be about 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Roof Construction Directions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood boards so that one edge is curved outward.\", \"描述\": \"This can be done while the tank walls are curing. The tank size will dictate the necessary sizes of the forms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Once the walls are fully cured, position the wood beams inside the tank.\", \"描述\": \"One log will be the center pole sticking up vertically from the center of the foundation. Two logs will be cross bars near to the top of the walls to support the wooden roof forms. Additional vertical logs will also be used to support the wooden roof forms; these logs should be placed along the inside circumference of the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail the cut wood board forms to the support poles.\", \"描述\": \"The wood will create a domed roof form.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail the plywood sheets flat against the wood board forms.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Leave one square space open in the forms.\", \"描述\": \"This will provide the tank lid opening.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Lay concentric circle of rebar on top of the plywood sheets.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tie supporting wires to the rebar circles using wire ties.\", \"描述\": \"The wires should run from the dome center down to the base of the roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Place and tie chicken wire mesh to the supporting wires.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Slap concrete mortar mixture onto the roof forms.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure that enough concrete gets below the rebar circles.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Allow the concrete to cure.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the concrete wet during this process.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Once the concrete has cured, enter the tank through the open square space.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Carefully remove the wood beams, forms and plywood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Paint the inside of the tank with the waterproof sealant.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Install the square metal lid into the open space of to roof.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Optional:\", \"描述\": \"Paint the walls and roof of the ferrocement tank with any desired color.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Caution: When working with concrete, the necessary safety precautions must be taken. Gloves, safety goggles, and face masks should be worn.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,340
How to Build a Fileserver
1. Steps 1-1. Think about your needs. Do you have to server hundreds of movies to multiple independent PCs throughout a house, or do you just need a convenient place to put your music to play on your HTPC? The use of a home fileserver will strongly guide the next steps. 1-2. Think about storage space. How much do you need? This is also tied closely to the last question. If all you have is a couple HD movies (or many DVD-quality movies) and a bit of music, you could probably get away with a single 500 GB drive. For many HD movies, a large music collection, and lots of family photos, a larger hard drive or an array of many hard drives may be better suited. 1-3. Think about multiple drives/RAID arrays. If you decided you need a lot of space in the previous step, a RAID array might be what is needed. 1-4. Decide about RAID level. RAID 1 mirrors the content in all disks, offering the most reliability with capacity of the single disk only. For less paranoid, RAID 6 tolerates as much as two disk failures without data loss. RAID 5 gives the most capacity (just one disk less than total number of disks). RAID 10 provides the most performance, offering half of the capacity. Finally, RAID 0 is fastest but loses data in all disks after any single disk fails, so is generally not a good choice if you have no other backup source. Not all levels are possible with any number of disks - usually the more disks, the more choices you have. There are also more levels - read up on the standard RAID levels on a web. 1-5. Think about a RAID controller. Hardware controllers are fast, reliable, easy to install and offer wider choice of possible RAID configurations. However they are not cheap and if your motherboard has enough hard drive ports you can also try software RAID without controller. It will outperform the cheapest hardware RAID cards. However you need to search the web for setup instructions and likely use Linux. You may also save money by using software RAID with non-RAID controller that usually will be bundled with all required software. 1-6. Think about the rest of the PC. A fileserver tends to require little power, so a budget CPU + motherboard is usually sufficient. Ensure it has a slot (usually PCI-Express) for the RAID card if applicable. 1-2GB of RAM is often enough, unless the server will also be running applications. Gigabit Ethernet allows for future expansion and high speeds when loading content from the server. A power supply needs to provide enough power for all your hard drives. The 3.5' drives vary in power consumption from 7W till as many as 25W so search the web for the precise model you have. 1-7. Think about a case. Will this server be in a rack, or just in a desktop case? The rack enclosure is optimized to stack many servers on a shared rack (it is low, flat and wide). Such rack can be bought but for a single server may not make sense. However if you plan to place your server to some server centre, the "desktop shape" server will be at least way more expensive to house, if accepted at all. 1-8. Build! Airflow is especially important in servers, as hot spots can easily develop when many hard drives are running continuously. Ensure there are enough fans, that they blow the air in a straight path from front to back, and that they all work. A dead fan can cause a lot of headaches later! Don't skimp here. 1-9. Install an OS and software. Linux is usually a solid choice. Any Linux server distro should work fine and get you up and running quickly. Alternatively, Windows Server OSes are very configurable, but require significantly more power and resources. Finally, Windows Home Server is a new kid on the block, but it has many powerful features. With WHS, you don't need a RAID card or any sort of controller to create a large array, but be aware if the OS dies, so does all your data with it. Tips Redundancy is far more beneficial than reliability. 2 de-localised servers running RAID0 arrays are much better than 1 running a RAID10 array. If you're building a RAID array, get the absolutely largest drives you can afford. An array of 3 1TB drives has the same space as an array of 6 500GB drives, but with the 1TB drives you have much more room to expand. And, when you run out of controller ports but still want to expand, you'll have to replace all the drives with higher capacity models. You're building this fileserver to last, so think of the future! RAID with redundancy tolerates a single or sometimes even double hard drive failure without data loss. Hot swappable bays are for replacing the failed drive easy, quickly, even without shutting down the server. Use them if you can. Warnings Avoid static electricity when working with computer components. Make sure you allow ample airflow outside the server, as well as in. Putting it in a closet with the door closed is NOT a good idea, and could potentially lead to a dead server or even a fire! You can also find SAS hard drives in a server market. They are in general good but require an appropriate controller. Only high end RAID cards allow to connect both SAS and SATA drives without caring.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:35", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Think about your needs.\\nDo you have to server hundreds of movies to multiple independent PCs throughout a house, or do you just need a convenient place to put your music to play on your HTPC? The use of a home fileserver will strongly guide the next steps.\\n1-2. Think about storage space.\\nHow much do you need? This is also tied closely to the last question. If all you have is a couple HD movies (or many DVD-quality movies) and a bit of music, you could probably get away with a single 500 GB drive. For many HD movies, a large music collection, and lots of family photos, a larger hard drive or an array of many hard drives may be better suited.\\n1-3. Think about multiple drives/RAID arrays.\\nIf you decided you need a lot of space in the previous step, a RAID array might be what is needed.\\n1-4. Decide about RAID level.\\nRAID 1 mirrors the content in all disks, offering the most reliability with capacity of the single disk only. For less paranoid, RAID 6 tolerates as much as two disk failures without data loss. RAID 5 gives the most capacity (just one disk less than total number of disks). RAID 10 provides the most performance, offering half of the capacity. Finally, RAID 0 is fastest but loses data in all disks after any single disk fails, so is generally not a good choice if you have no other backup source. Not all levels are possible with any number of disks - usually the more disks, the more choices you have. There are also more levels - read up on the standard RAID levels on a web.\\n1-5. Think about a RAID controller.\\nHardware controllers are fast, reliable, easy to install and offer wider choice of possible RAID configurations. However they are not cheap and if your motherboard has enough hard drive ports you can also try software RAID without controller. It will outperform the cheapest hardware RAID cards. However you need to search the web for setup instructions and likely use Linux. You may also save money by using software RAID with non-RAID controller that usually will be bundled with all required software.\\n1-6. Think about the rest of the PC.\\nA fileserver tends to require little power, so a budget CPU + motherboard is usually sufficient. Ensure it has a slot (usually PCI-Express) for the RAID card if applicable. 1-2GB of RAM is often enough, unless the server will also be running applications. Gigabit Ethernet allows for future expansion and high speeds when loading content from the server. A power supply needs to provide enough power for all your hard drives. The 3.5' drives vary in power consumption from 7W till as many as 25W so search the web for the precise model you have.\\n1-7. Think about a case.\\nWill this server be in a rack, or just in a desktop case? The rack enclosure is optimized to stack many servers on a shared rack (it is low, flat and wide). Such rack can be bought but for a single server may not make sense. However if you plan to place your server to some server centre, the \\\"desktop shape\\\" server will be at least way more expensive to house, if accepted at all.\\n1-8. Build!\\nAirflow is especially important in servers, as hot spots can easily develop when many hard drives are running continuously. Ensure there are enough fans, that they blow the air in a straight path from front to back, and that they all work. A dead fan can cause a lot of headaches later! Don't skimp here.\\n1-9. Install an OS and software.\\nLinux is usually a solid choice. Any Linux server distro should work fine and get you up and running quickly. Alternatively, Windows Server OSes are very configurable, but require significantly more power and resources. Finally, Windows Home Server is a new kid on the block, but it has many powerful features. With WHS, you don't need a RAID card or any sort of controller to create a large array, but be aware if the OS dies, so does all your data with it.\\nTips\\nRedundancy is far more beneficial than reliability. 2 de-localised servers running RAID0 arrays are much better than 1 running a RAID10 array.\\nIf you're building a RAID array, get the absolutely largest drives you can afford. An array of 3 1TB drives has the same space as an array of 6 500GB drives, but with the 1TB drives you have much more room to expand. And, when you run out of controller ports but still want to expand, you'll have to replace all the drives with higher capacity models. You're building this fileserver to last, so think of the future!\\nRAID with redundancy tolerates a single or sometimes even double hard drive failure without data loss. Hot swappable bays are for replacing the failed drive easy, quickly, even without shutting down the server. Use them if you can.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid static electricity when working with computer components.\\nMake sure you allow ample airflow outside the server, as well as in. Putting it in a closet with the door closed is NOT a good idea, and could potentially lead to a dead server or even a fire!\\nYou can also find SAS hard drives in a server market. They are in general good but require an appropriate controller. Only high end RAID cards allow to connect both SAS and SATA drives without caring.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With the growing size of media in many homes, especially with the advent of Hi-def media and HDTVs, the amount of space needed to store even a moderately-sized collection of movies or music is growing rapidly. Hard drive capacities have been growing as well, but there is little room for many of them in small PCs or HTPCs. A file server offers a nice, convenient way of providing lots of space that can be tucked away somewhere.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Think about your needs.\", \"描述\": \"Do you have to server hundreds of movies to multiple independent PCs throughout a house, or do you just need a convenient place to put your music to play on your HTPC? The use of a home fileserver will strongly guide the next steps.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Think about storage space.\", \"描述\": \"How much do you need? This is also tied closely to the last question. If all you have is a couple HD movies (or many DVD-quality movies) and a bit of music, you could probably get away with a single 500 GB drive. For many HD movies, a large music collection, and lots of family photos, a larger hard drive or an array of many hard drives may be better suited.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Think about multiple drives/RAID arrays.\", \"描述\": \"If you decided you need a lot of space in the previous step, a RAID array might be what is needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decide about RAID level.\", \"描述\": \"RAID 1 mirrors the content in all disks, offering the most reliability with capacity of the single disk only. For less paranoid, RAID 6 tolerates as much as two disk failures without data loss. RAID 5 gives the most capacity (just one disk less than total number of disks). RAID 10 provides the most performance, offering half of the capacity. Finally, RAID 0 is fastest but loses data in all disks after any single disk fails, so is generally not a good choice if you have no other backup source. Not all levels are possible with any number of disks - usually the more disks, the more choices you have. There are also more levels - read up on the standard RAID levels on a web.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Think about a RAID controller.\", \"描述\": \"Hardware controllers are fast, reliable, easy to install and offer wider choice of possible RAID configurations. However they are not cheap and if your motherboard has enough hard drive ports you can also try software RAID without controller. It will outperform the cheapest hardware RAID cards. However you need to search the web for setup instructions and likely use Linux. You may also save money by using software RAID with non-RAID controller that usually will be bundled with all required software.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Think about the rest of the PC.\", \"描述\": \"A fileserver tends to require little power, so a budget CPU + motherboard is usually sufficient. Ensure it has a slot (usually PCI-Express) for the RAID card if applicable. 1-2GB of RAM is often enough, unless the server will also be running applications. Gigabit Ethernet allows for future expansion and high speeds when loading content from the server. A power supply needs to provide enough power for all your hard drives. The 3.5' drives vary in power consumption from 7W till as many as 25W so search the web for the precise model you have.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Think about a case.\", \"描述\": \"Will this server be in a rack, or just in a desktop case? The rack enclosure is optimized to stack many servers on a shared rack (it is low, flat and wide). Such rack can be bought but for a single server may not make sense. However if you plan to place your server to some server centre, the \\\"desktop shape\\\" server will be at least way more expensive to house, if accepted at all.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Build!\", \"描述\": \"Airflow is especially important in servers, as hot spots can easily develop when many hard drives are running continuously. Ensure there are enough fans, that they blow the air in a straight path from front to back, and that they all work. A dead fan can cause a lot of headaches later! Don't skimp here.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install an OS and software.\", \"描述\": \"Linux is usually a solid choice. Any Linux server distro should work fine and get you up and running quickly. Alternatively, Windows Server OSes are very configurable, but require significantly more power and resources. Finally, Windows Home Server is a new kid on the block, but it has many powerful features. With WHS, you don't need a RAID card or any sort of controller to create a large array, but be aware if the OS dies, so does all your data with it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Redundancy is far more beneficial than reliability. 2 de-localised servers running RAID0 arrays are much better than 1 running a RAID10 array.\\n\", \"If you're building a RAID array, get the absolutely largest drives you can afford. An array of 3 1TB drives has the same space as an array of 6 500GB drives, but with the 1TB drives you have much more room to expand. And, when you run out of controller ports but still want to expand, you'll have to replace all the drives with higher capacity models. You're building this fileserver to last, so think of the future!\\n\", \"RAID with redundancy tolerates a single or sometimes even double hard drive failure without data loss. Hot swappable bays are for replacing the failed drive easy, quickly, even without shutting down the server. Use them if you can.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid static electricity when working with computer components.\\n\", \"Make sure you allow ample airflow outside the server, as well as in. Putting it in a closet with the door closed is NOT a good idea, and could potentially lead to a dead server or even a fire!\\n\", \"You can also find SAS hard drives in a server market. They are in general good but require an appropriate controller. Only high end RAID cards allow to connect both SAS and SATA drives without caring.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,341
How to Build a Fire
1. Gathering What You Need 1-1. Buy pre-cut firewood to play it safe, if possible. Pre-cut firewood is the ideal option for making a fire at home, and it is also a wise bet for starting a fire outdoors. Having ready-to-use firewood will spare you the time, effort, and uncertainty of searching for usable firewood in the woods. Pre-cut wood logs can be purchased at hardware stores, or from merchants near campsites. 1-2. Use manufactured fire logs for a purely decorative fire. Manufactured logs combine sawdust and paraffin wax for an easy-to-light, clean-burning fire. These logs have the benefit of lighting without any starting material and leaving little mess, but they do not create the same heat as a regular, wood-burning fire would. To make an easy fire when you are not in need of warmth, purchase manufactured logs at hardware stores. 1-3. Find small, dry materials to use as tinder for a natural fire. Tinder is easy-to-light materials that help to start your fire. Find small, dry items such as grass, leaves, shredded tree bark or newspaper are ideal choices. In a pinch, tortilla chips make great tinder if you are willing to spare the snack. 1-4. Find dry, medium-sized items to serve as kindling. Kindling is material that burns easily when it comes in contact with lit tinder, but is difficult to light its own. Look for small sticks, twigs, and large pieces of bark. Make sure that the items are completely dry. Cut large pieces of wood with an axe or knife to create kindling. 1-5. Collect a variety of fuel wood. Fuel wood should consist of logs that will burn for an extended time and keep your fire alive. Look for dry, brittle wood in a range of different sizes to top off your fire as needed as it burns. Different types of wood burn differently, so keep in mind that: Hardwood, like oak and maple, will take longer to start burning but burn for a long time. Softwood, like pine and cedar, burns fast and crack and pops while burning due to resins. 2. Creating a Fire Structure 2-1. Build a fire on a clear, dry surface. Choose a spot that is at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from trees, bushes, and low hanging branches. Clear the area of dry leaves, twigs, or other items that could ignite and cause the fire to spread. Make sure the fire spot is on dry ground, or build a bed of rocks. Build a circle of large rocks measuring about 3 feet (0.91 m) or 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter to mark where you are building the fire. Never build a fire anywhere within 6 feet (1.8 m) of your shelter or tent if you are sleeping outdoors. 2-2. Build a cross fire structure to keep things simple. Place the tinder material at the center of your fire bed. Next, place kindling on top of it in a crisscross patter. Repeat the pattern with the fuelwood. 2-3. Make a teepee structure for an easy-to-light option. Bunch your tinder material into a ball that is approximately 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Stack pieces of kindling together in a teepee-like shape around the tinder, with an opening on one side. Lean pieces of fuelwood against each other to form a frame around the tinder and kindling, leaving a gap in the same spot that you did for the kindling. 2-4. Set up a "log cabin" fire structure for easy building. Place tinder material in the middle of your fire site, then build a tinder "teepee" around the tinder material. Place two pieces of fuel wood on either side of the teepee, then lay two more pieces across them, perpendicularly. Repeat the pattern 2 to 3 times to build a "log cabin." Again, this is an alternative to a cross fire or teepee structure. 3. Lighting the Fire 3-1. Use a lighter or matches, if you have them. The simplest way to light your fire is by using simple fire starters like matches or a lighter. Carefully light matches or strike your lighter and hold the flame to piece of tinder until it starts to burn. Gently blow on the lit tinder to help build the fire. For the best results, light the tinder from several sides to ensure that it burns properly. 3-2. Spark a fire with flint and steel, as a weather-proof alternative. Flint and steel sets are an excellent, lasting, and weather-proof alternative to lighters and matches. Hold the steel and flint close to the tinder pile at the center of your fire bed. Strike the steel against the flint several times to send sparks towards the tinder until it ignites. Flint and steel sets are available at hardware stores, sports stores, wilderness supply stores, or online. 3-3. Create a fire plough for a makeshift fire starter. Dig a groove into a flat piece of softwood with a pocket knife or another sharp tool. Using a stick or small branch, plough up and down the groove to create friction and heat. After a few minutes, the heat will intensify and ignite the wood particles created by the ploughing motion. Other sharp tools that you can use instead of pocket knives include pens, metal skewers, and nails. 4. Extinguishing a Fire Safely 4-1. Start putting the fire out 20 minutes in advance. It takes a while to fully extinguish a fire and it is dangerous to abandon it before you do. Plan when you want your fire to be out to give yourself enough time to achieve this. 4-2. Sprinkle water over the fire site. Tilt a bucket of water over the fire and distribute drops and small splashes of water onto the embers. Do this gently and gradually. A watering can, large water bottle, or other vessel will also serve to distribute water slowly over your fire site. 4-3. Stir the embers with a stick or shovel while you sprinkle water. Make sure that all the embers in your fireplace get wet by turning them over as you sprinkle water on them. Use a stick or metal shovel to stir them. Be thorough and continue stirring until the fire is extinguished completely. 4-4. Make sure that there is no steam, heat, or noise emerging from your fire site. Place your hand near the base of your fire site to make sure it feels cool. If you do not feel any heat emerging from the ground, it is likely to be fully extinguished. Also check for signs of steam and listen for any hissing noises, which are signs of remaining burning embers. If you do not see evidence of these things, it is safe to leave your fire site. If you see evidence of any of these things, repeat the above steps to extinguish the fire. If you don't plan on using the fire site again, dump water over it. Tips Keep at least one bucket of water or sand nearby to put out the fire. Never leave a fire burning unsupervised. Warnings Don't light fires indoors or in extremely dry weather conditions as you could accidentally start a conflagration. Being negligent with fire could also potentially lead to criminal charges.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering What You Need\\n1-1. Buy pre-cut firewood to play it safe, if possible.\\nPre-cut firewood is the ideal option for making a fire at home, and it is also a wise bet for starting a fire outdoors. Having ready-to-use firewood will spare you the time, effort, and uncertainty of searching for usable firewood in the woods. Pre-cut wood logs can be purchased at hardware stores, or from merchants near campsites.\\n1-2. Use manufactured fire logs for a purely decorative fire.\\nManufactured logs combine sawdust and paraffin wax for an easy-to-light, clean-burning fire. These logs have the benefit of lighting without any starting material and leaving little mess, but they do not create the same heat as a regular, wood-burning fire would.\\nTo make an easy fire when you are not in need of warmth, purchase manufactured logs at hardware stores.\\n1-3. Find small, dry materials to use as tinder for a natural fire.\\nTinder is easy-to-light materials that help to start your fire. Find small, dry items such as grass, leaves, shredded tree bark or newspaper are ideal choices. In a pinch, tortilla chips make great tinder if you are willing to spare the snack.\\n1-4. Find dry, medium-sized items to serve as kindling.\\nKindling is material that burns easily when it comes in contact with lit tinder, but is difficult to light its own. Look for small sticks, twigs, and large pieces of bark. Make sure that the items are completely dry.\\nCut large pieces of wood with an axe or knife to create kindling.\\n1-5. Collect a variety of fuel wood.\\nFuel wood should consist of logs that will burn for an extended time and keep your fire alive. Look for dry, brittle wood in a range of different sizes to top off your fire as needed as it burns. Different types of wood burn differently, so keep in mind that:\\nHardwood, like oak and maple, will take longer to start burning but burn for a long time.\\nSoftwood, like pine and cedar, burns fast and crack and pops while burning due to resins.\\n2. Creating a Fire Structure\\n2-1. Build a fire on a clear, dry surface.\\nChoose a spot that is at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from trees, bushes, and low hanging branches. Clear the area of dry leaves, twigs, or other items that could ignite and cause the fire to spread. Make sure the fire spot is on dry ground, or build a bed of rocks.\\nBuild a circle of large rocks measuring about 3 feet (0.91 m) or 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter to mark where you are building the fire.\\nNever build a fire anywhere within 6 feet (1.8 m) of your shelter or tent if you are sleeping outdoors.\\n2-2. Build a cross fire structure to keep things simple.\\nPlace the tinder material at the center of your fire bed. Next, place kindling on top of it in a crisscross patter. Repeat the pattern with the fuelwood.\\n2-3. Make a teepee structure for an easy-to-light option.\\nBunch your tinder material into a ball that is approximately 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Stack pieces of kindling together in a teepee-like shape around the tinder, with an opening on one side. Lean pieces of fuelwood against each other to form a frame around the tinder and kindling, leaving a gap in the same spot that you did for the kindling.\\n2-4. Set up a \\\"log cabin\\\" fire structure for easy building.\\nPlace tinder material in the middle of your fire site, then build a tinder \\\"teepee\\\" around the tinder material. Place two pieces of fuel wood on either side of the teepee, then lay two more pieces across them, perpendicularly.\\nRepeat the pattern 2 to 3 times to build a \\\"log cabin.\\\"\\nAgain, this is an alternative to a cross fire or teepee structure.\\n3. Lighting the Fire\\n3-1. Use a lighter or matches, if you have them.\\nThe simplest way to light your fire is by using simple fire starters like matches or a lighter. Carefully light matches or strike your lighter and hold the flame to piece of tinder until it starts to burn. \\nGently blow on the lit tinder to help build the fire.\\nFor the best results, light the tinder from several sides to ensure that it burns properly.\\n3-2. Spark a fire with flint and steel, as a weather-proof alternative.\\nFlint and steel sets are an excellent, lasting, and weather-proof alternative to lighters and matches. Hold the steel and flint close to the tinder pile at the center of your fire bed. Strike the steel against the flint several times to send sparks towards the tinder until it ignites.\\nFlint and steel sets are available at hardware stores, sports stores, wilderness supply stores, or online.\\n3-3. Create a fire plough for a makeshift fire starter.\\nDig a groove into a flat piece of softwood with a pocket knife or another sharp tool. Using a stick or small branch, plough up and down the groove to create friction and heat. After a few minutes, the heat will intensify and ignite the wood particles created by the ploughing motion.\\nOther sharp tools that you can use instead of pocket knives include pens, metal skewers, and nails.\\n4. Extinguishing a Fire Safely\\n4-1. Start putting the fire out 20 minutes in advance.\\nIt takes a while to fully extinguish a fire and it is dangerous to abandon it before you do. Plan when you want your fire to be out to give yourself enough time to achieve this.\\n4-2. Sprinkle water over the fire site.\\nTilt a bucket of water over the fire and distribute drops and small splashes of water onto the embers. Do this gently and gradually. A watering can, large water bottle, or other vessel will also serve to distribute water slowly over your fire site.\\n4-3. Stir the embers with a stick or shovel while you sprinkle water.\\nMake sure that all the embers in your fireplace get wet by turning them over as you sprinkle water on them. Use a stick or metal shovel to stir them. Be thorough and continue stirring until the fire is extinguished completely.\\n4-4. Make sure that there is no steam, heat, or noise emerging from your fire site.\\nPlace your hand near the base of your fire site to make sure it feels cool. If you do not feel any heat emerging from the ground, it is likely to be fully extinguished. Also check for signs of steam and listen for any hissing noises, which are signs of remaining burning embers.\\nIf you do not see evidence of these things, it is safe to leave your fire site.\\nIf you see evidence of any of these things, repeat the above steps to extinguish the fire. If you don't plan on using the fire site again, dump water over it.\\nTips\\nKeep at least one bucket of water or sand nearby to put out the fire.\\nNever leave a fire burning unsupervised.\\nWarnings\\nDon't light fires indoors or in extremely dry weather conditions as you could accidentally start a conflagration. Being negligent with fire could also potentially lead to criminal charges.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You can build a fire fairly easily with the right materials and tools. Gather tinder, kindling, and fuel wood to start and maintain a warming fire. To keep things safe, remember to always build your fire at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from your tent or shelter as well as low hanging trees. Take the time to put out your fire properly once you are done enjoying it.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering What You Need\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy pre-cut firewood to play it safe, if possible.\", \"描述\": \"Pre-cut firewood is the ideal option for making a fire at home, and it is also a wise bet for starting a fire outdoors. Having ready-to-use firewood will spare you the time, effort, and uncertainty of searching for usable firewood in the woods. Pre-cut wood logs can be purchased at hardware stores, or from merchants near campsites.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use manufactured fire logs for a purely decorative fire.\", \"描述\": \"Manufactured logs combine sawdust and paraffin wax for an easy-to-light, clean-burning fire. These logs have the benefit of lighting without any starting material and leaving little mess, but they do not create the same heat as a regular, wood-burning fire would.\\nTo make an easy fire when you are not in need of warmth, purchase manufactured logs at hardware stores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Find small, dry materials to use as tinder for a natural fire.\", \"描述\": \"Tinder is easy-to-light materials that help to start your fire. Find small, dry items such as grass, leaves, shredded tree bark or newspaper are ideal choices. In a pinch, tortilla chips make great tinder if you are willing to spare the snack.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find dry, medium-sized items to serve as kindling.\", \"描述\": \"Kindling is material that burns easily when it comes in contact with lit tinder, but is difficult to light its own. Look for small sticks, twigs, and large pieces of bark. Make sure that the items are completely dry.\\nCut large pieces of wood with an axe or knife to create kindling.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Collect a variety of fuel wood.\", \"描述\": \"Fuel wood should consist of logs that will burn for an extended time and keep your fire alive. Look for dry, brittle wood in a range of different sizes to top off your fire as needed as it burns. Different types of wood burn differently, so keep in mind that:\\nHardwood, like oak and maple, will take longer to start burning but burn for a long time.\\nSoftwood, like pine and cedar, burns fast and crack and pops while burning due to resins.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Fire Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a fire on a clear, dry surface.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a spot that is at least 6 feet (1.8 m) away from trees, bushes, and low hanging branches. Clear the area of dry leaves, twigs, or other items that could ignite and cause the fire to spread. Make sure the fire spot is on dry ground, or build a bed of rocks.\\nBuild a circle of large rocks measuring about 3 feet (0.91 m) or 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter to mark where you are building the fire.\\nNever build a fire anywhere within 6 feet (1.8 m) of your shelter or tent if you are sleeping outdoors.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a cross fire structure to keep things simple.\", \"描述\": \"Place the tinder material at the center of your fire bed. Next, place kindling on top of it in a crisscross patter. Repeat the pattern with the fuelwood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a teepee structure for an easy-to-light option.\", \"描述\": \"Bunch your tinder material into a ball that is approximately 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Stack pieces of kindling together in a teepee-like shape around the tinder, with an opening on one side. Lean pieces of fuelwood against each other to form a frame around the tinder and kindling, leaving a gap in the same spot that you did for the kindling.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set up a \\\"log cabin\\\" fire structure for easy building.\", \"描述\": \"Place tinder material in the middle of your fire site, then build a tinder \\\"teepee\\\" around the tinder material. Place two pieces of fuel wood on either side of the teepee, then lay two more pieces across them, perpendicularly.\\nRepeat the pattern 2 to 3 times to build a \\\"log cabin.\\\"\\nAgain, this is an alternative to a cross fire or teepee structure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lighting the Fire\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a lighter or matches, if you have them.\", \"描述\": \"The simplest way to light your fire is by using simple fire starters like matches or a lighter. Carefully light matches or strike your lighter and hold the flame to piece of tinder until it starts to burn. \\nGently blow on the lit tinder to help build the fire.\\nFor the best results, light the tinder from several sides to ensure that it burns properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Spark a fire with flint and steel, as a weather-proof alternative.\", \"描述\": \"Flint and steel sets are an excellent, lasting, and weather-proof alternative to lighters and matches. Hold the steel and flint close to the tinder pile at the center of your fire bed. Strike the steel against the flint several times to send sparks towards the tinder until it ignites.\\nFlint and steel sets are available at hardware stores, sports stores, wilderness supply stores, or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a fire plough for a makeshift fire starter.\", \"描述\": \"Dig a groove into a flat piece of softwood with a pocket knife or another sharp tool. Using a stick or small branch, plough up and down the groove to create friction and heat. After a few minutes, the heat will intensify and ignite the wood particles created by the ploughing motion.\\nOther sharp tools that you can use instead of pocket knives include pens, metal skewers, and nails.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Extinguishing a Fire Safely\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start putting the fire out 20 minutes in advance.\", \"描述\": \"It takes a while to fully extinguish a fire and it is dangerous to abandon it before you do. Plan when you want your fire to be out to give yourself enough time to achieve this.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sprinkle water over the fire site.\", \"描述\": \"Tilt a bucket of water over the fire and distribute drops and small splashes of water onto the embers. Do this gently and gradually. A watering can, large water bottle, or other vessel will also serve to distribute water slowly over your fire site.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stir the embers with a stick or shovel while you sprinkle water.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that all the embers in your fireplace get wet by turning them over as you sprinkle water on them. Use a stick or metal shovel to stir them. Be thorough and continue stirring until the fire is extinguished completely.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure that there is no steam, heat, or noise emerging from your fire site.\", \"描述\": \"Place your hand near the base of your fire site to make sure it feels cool. If you do not feel any heat emerging from the ground, it is likely to be fully extinguished. Also check for signs of steam and listen for any hissing noises, which are signs of remaining burning embers.\\nIf you do not see evidence of these things, it is safe to leave your fire site.\\nIf you see evidence of any of these things, repeat the above steps to extinguish the fire. If you don't plan on using the fire site again, dump water over it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Keep at least one bucket of water or sand nearby to put out the fire.\\n\", \"Never leave a fire burning unsupervised.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Don't light fires indoors or in extremely dry weather conditions as you could accidentally start a conflagration. Being negligent with fire could also potentially lead to criminal charges.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,342
How to Build a Firewood Rack
1. Making a Simple Firewood Rack 1-1. Space 2 cinder blocks 4 feet (1.2 m) apart on concrete slabs. Get 2 cinderblocks that have holes in them. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the distance between the 2 blocks and position them so they are parallel. The holes on the cinder blocks should be facing up. If you don’t have concrete slabs lay down a 1 inch (2.5 cm)-thick layer of gravel under each cinder block. Concrete blocks or gravel will prevent bugs from eating away at the wood. 1-2. Lay 2 4x4 boards on top of the cinder blocks. Each 4x4 board should be 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) long. Lay the boards on top of the cinder blocks on their wide side. The boards should run parallel and be around 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart depending on the size of your cinder blocks. This will form the base that you’ll rest your firewood on. Make sure the boards don’t completely cover the holes in the cinder blocks. If your boards are longer than 6 feet (1.8 m) long, use a saw to cut them down to size. You can also use thick landscaping timbers as an alternative to the 4x4 boards. 1-3. Stick 4 2x4 boards into the cinder block holes on both ends of the rack. Stick 2 boards into each hole at each end of the rack. Each 2x4 board should be at least 4 feet (1.2 m) long. The boards should be sticking up vertically out of the cinder blocks. The 2x4 boards will hold the wood in and ensure that it doesn’t overflow on the sides of the rack. 1-4. Stack your firewood on the 4x4 boards. As you fill the rack, the 2x4 boards on the sides will bow out and help carry the load of all the wood. You can safely stack the wood 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) high using this rack. 2. Creating a Framed Firewood Rack 2-1. Cut 4 2x4 boards 56 inches (140 cm) long. Mark and measure 4 2x4 inch boards so that they are 56 inches (140 cm) long. Then, use a circular saw or hand saw to cut them to the appropriate size. These boards will comprise the base and roof of the firewood rack. Wear safety goggles whenever you cut the wood. Cut the wood in a well-ventilated area. 2-2. Saw 4 2x4 boards 16 inches (41 cm) long. Use the same method that you used to cut the 56 in (140 cm)-long boards to cut the smaller boards. These boards will connect the 2 longer pieces together in the middle. You can also use scrap 2x4 wood if you have any leftover. 2-3. Cut 4 2x4 boards so they are 3 feet (91 cm) long. Measure and cut 4 more 2x4s to create the framing for the walls of your rack. Lay out the pieces on the floor to make sure that you have all the required pieces for the rack. The framing boards can be as long as you want, depending on how high you want to stack your wood. For the purposes of this project, we’ll make the rack 3 feet (91 cm) high. 2-4. Set 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards on the ground. Set the 2 boards 16 inches (41 cm) apart. This will serve as the long sides for the base of your firewood rack. Make sure to work in a large enough area so you can move around comfortably. 2-5. Glue 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s in between the longer boards. Apply wood glue to the thin ends of the 16 in (41 cm) boards. Place the board in between the 2 boards at one end of the board and push the 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4s together to adhere the smaller center piece to each side of the rack. Repeat the process on the other end of the long boards so that it’s connected on both ends. This will be the base for your firewood rack. The base should be shaped like a rectangle. 2-6. Nail the long boards into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s. Drive 2 3 in (7.6 cm) nails into the outside of the long boards so that the nail goes into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s. Go to the other end of the rack and repeat the process. The 16 in (41 cm)-long boards should be nailed into the longer boards 2 times on each end. Each nail should be spaced 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) apart. Nailing the framing pieces together will reinforce the firewood rack and will prevent it from breaking. 2-7. Repeat the process to make the top of the rack. The process to create the top of the firewood rack is the same as creating the base. Connect the remaining 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards together using 2 more 16 in (41 cm)-long pieces. Remember to use both wood glue and nails to reinforce the frame of the rack. 2-8. Nail 4 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards into the corners of the bottom rack. Align the remaining boards in each corner of the rack and nail them into the bottom rack with 3 in (7.6 cm) nails. Each board should be positioned in the corner the same way so that you can easily attach the roof to the rack. Put 2 nails in each of the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards. 2-9. Nail the top frame into the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards. Lower the frame onto its side so that you can easily position the roof around the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards. Nail each of the boards into the top frame to complete your project. 2-10. Place the rack on concrete slabs or gravel. Keeping the rack slightly elevated off the ground will increase the longevity of the wood. You can now stack your wood in a contained firewood rack. 2-11. Place aluminum siding or a tarp over the rack to add a roof. A roof will prevent your wood from getting wet if you plan on keeping your rack outside. Get a piece of aluminum siding or tarp that's the same size as the top frame of the rack and place it over the rack. Then, use nails to secure the siding to the rack. Space each nail 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Firewood Rack\\n1-1. Space 2 cinder blocks 4 feet (1.2 m) apart on concrete slabs.\\nGet 2 cinderblocks that have holes in them. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the distance between the 2 blocks and position them so they are parallel. The holes on the cinder blocks should be facing up.\\nIf you don’t have concrete slabs lay down a 1 inch (2.5 cm)-thick layer of gravel under each cinder block.\\nConcrete blocks or gravel will prevent bugs from eating away at the wood.\\n1-2. Lay 2 4x4 boards on top of the cinder blocks.\\nEach 4x4 board should be 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) long. Lay the boards on top of the cinder blocks on their wide side. The boards should run parallel and be around 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart depending on the size of your cinder blocks. This will form the base that you’ll rest your firewood on.\\nMake sure the boards don’t completely cover the holes in the cinder blocks.\\nIf your boards are longer than 6 feet (1.8 m) long, use a saw to cut them down to size.\\nYou can also use thick landscaping timbers as an alternative to the 4x4 boards.\\n1-3. Stick 4 2x4 boards into the cinder block holes on both ends of the rack.\\nStick 2 boards into each hole at each end of the rack. Each 2x4 board should be at least 4 feet (1.2 m) long. The boards should be sticking up vertically out of the cinder blocks.\\nThe 2x4 boards will hold the wood in and ensure that it doesn’t overflow on the sides of the rack.\\n1-4. Stack your firewood on the 4x4 boards.\\nAs you fill the rack, the 2x4 boards on the sides will bow out and help carry the load of all the wood. You can safely stack the wood 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) high using this rack.\\n2. Creating a Framed Firewood Rack\\n2-1. Cut 4 2x4 boards 56 inches (140 cm) long.\\nMark and measure 4 2x4 inch boards so that they are 56 inches (140 cm) long. Then, use a circular saw or hand saw to cut them to the appropriate size. These boards will comprise the base and roof of the firewood rack.\\nWear safety goggles whenever you cut the wood.\\nCut the wood in a well-ventilated area.\\n2-2. Saw 4 2x4 boards 16 inches (41 cm) long.\\nUse the same method that you used to cut the 56 in (140 cm)-long boards to cut the smaller boards. These boards will connect the 2 longer pieces together in the middle.\\nYou can also use scrap 2x4 wood if you have any leftover.\\n2-3. Cut 4 2x4 boards so they are 3 feet (91 cm) long.\\nMeasure and cut 4 more 2x4s to create the framing for the walls of your rack. Lay out the pieces on the floor to make sure that you have all the required pieces for the rack.\\nThe framing boards can be as long as you want, depending on how high you want to stack your wood. For the purposes of this project, we’ll make the rack 3 feet (91 cm) high.\\n2-4. Set 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards on the ground.\\nSet the 2 boards 16 inches (41 cm) apart. This will serve as the long sides for the base of your firewood rack.\\nMake sure to work in a large enough area so you can move around comfortably.\\n2-5. Glue 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s in between the longer boards.\\nApply wood glue to the thin ends of the 16 in (41 cm) boards. Place the board in between the 2 boards at one end of the board and push the 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4s together to adhere the smaller center piece to each side of the rack. Repeat the process on the other end of the long boards so that it’s connected on both ends.\\nThis will be the base for your firewood rack.\\nThe base should be shaped like a rectangle.\\n2-6. Nail the long boards into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s.\\nDrive 2 3 in (7.6 cm) nails into the outside of the long boards so that the nail goes into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s. Go to the other end of the rack and repeat the process.\\nThe 16 in (41 cm)-long boards should be nailed into the longer boards 2 times on each end. Each nail should be spaced 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) apart.\\nNailing the framing pieces together will reinforce the firewood rack and will prevent it from breaking.\\n2-7. Repeat the process to make the top of the rack.\\nThe process to create the top of the firewood rack is the same as creating the base. Connect the remaining 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards together using 2 more 16 in (41 cm)-long pieces.\\nRemember to use both wood glue and nails to reinforce the frame of the rack.\\n2-8. Nail 4 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards into the corners of the bottom rack.\\nAlign the remaining boards in each corner of the rack and nail them into the bottom rack with 3 in (7.6 cm) nails. Each board should be positioned in the corner the same way so that you can easily attach the roof to the rack.\\nPut 2 nails in each of the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards.\\n2-9. Nail the top frame into the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards.\\nLower the frame onto its side so that you can easily position the roof around the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards. Nail each of the boards into the top frame to complete your project.\\n2-10. Place the rack on concrete slabs or gravel.\\nKeeping the rack slightly elevated off the ground will increase the longevity of the wood. You can now stack your wood in a contained firewood rack.\\n2-11. Place aluminum siding or a tarp over the rack to add a roof.\\nA roof will prevent your wood from getting wet if you plan on keeping your rack outside. Get a piece of aluminum siding or tarp that's the same size as the top frame of the rack and place it over the rack. Then, use nails to secure the siding to the rack.\\nSpace each nail 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Storing your firewood on the ground leaves it open to the elements and insects which could make it unusable. Luckily, you can safely store firewood in a firewood rack to prevent it from being damaged. If you’re looking for something simple, you can create a firewood rack without any tools using 2 cinder blocks and 6 pieces of wood. If you’re looking for something a little more sturdy, you can create a framed firewood rack using 2x4 boards and nails.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Firewood Rack\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Space 2 cinder blocks 4 feet (1.2 m) apart on concrete slabs.\", \"描述\": \"Get 2 cinderblocks that have holes in them. Use a measuring tape or ruler to measure the distance between the 2 blocks and position them so they are parallel. The holes on the cinder blocks should be facing up.\\nIf you don’t have concrete slabs lay down a 1 inch (2.5 cm)-thick layer of gravel under each cinder block.\\nConcrete blocks or gravel will prevent bugs from eating away at the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay 2 4x4 boards on top of the cinder blocks.\", \"描述\": \"Each 4x4 board should be 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) long. Lay the boards on top of the cinder blocks on their wide side. The boards should run parallel and be around 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) apart depending on the size of your cinder blocks. This will form the base that you’ll rest your firewood on.\\nMake sure the boards don’t completely cover the holes in the cinder blocks.\\nIf your boards are longer than 6 feet (1.8 m) long, use a saw to cut them down to size.\\nYou can also use thick landscaping timbers as an alternative to the 4x4 boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stick 4 2x4 boards into the cinder block holes on both ends of the rack.\", \"描述\": \"Stick 2 boards into each hole at each end of the rack. Each 2x4 board should be at least 4 feet (1.2 m) long. The boards should be sticking up vertically out of the cinder blocks.\\nThe 2x4 boards will hold the wood in and ensure that it doesn’t overflow on the sides of the rack.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stack your firewood on the 4x4 boards.\", \"描述\": \"As you fill the rack, the 2x4 boards on the sides will bow out and help carry the load of all the wood. You can safely stack the wood 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m) high using this rack.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Framed Firewood Rack\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 2x4 boards 56 inches (140 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Mark and measure 4 2x4 inch boards so that they are 56 inches (140 cm) long. Then, use a circular saw or hand saw to cut them to the appropriate size. These boards will comprise the base and roof of the firewood rack.\\nWear safety goggles whenever you cut the wood.\\nCut the wood in a well-ventilated area.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Saw 4 2x4 boards 16 inches (41 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Use the same method that you used to cut the 56 in (140 cm)-long boards to cut the smaller boards. These boards will connect the 2 longer pieces together in the middle.\\nYou can also use scrap 2x4 wood if you have any leftover.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut 4 2x4 boards so they are 3 feet (91 cm) long.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and cut 4 more 2x4s to create the framing for the walls of your rack. Lay out the pieces on the floor to make sure that you have all the required pieces for the rack.\\nThe framing boards can be as long as you want, depending on how high you want to stack your wood. For the purposes of this project, we’ll make the rack 3 feet (91 cm) high.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Set the 2 boards 16 inches (41 cm) apart. This will serve as the long sides for the base of your firewood rack.\\nMake sure to work in a large enough area so you can move around comfortably.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Glue 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s in between the longer boards.\", \"描述\": \"Apply wood glue to the thin ends of the 16 in (41 cm) boards. Place the board in between the 2 boards at one end of the board and push the 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4s together to adhere the smaller center piece to each side of the rack. Repeat the process on the other end of the long boards so that it’s connected on both ends.\\nThis will be the base for your firewood rack.\\nThe base should be shaped like a rectangle.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Nail the long boards into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s.\", \"描述\": \"Drive 2 3 in (7.6 cm) nails into the outside of the long boards so that the nail goes into the 16 in (41 cm)-long 2x4s. Go to the other end of the rack and repeat the process.\\nThe 16 in (41 cm)-long boards should be nailed into the longer boards 2 times on each end. Each nail should be spaced 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) apart.\\nNailing the framing pieces together will reinforce the firewood rack and will prevent it from breaking.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process to make the top of the rack.\", \"描述\": \"The process to create the top of the firewood rack is the same as creating the base. Connect the remaining 2 56 in (140 cm)-long 2x4 boards together using 2 more 16 in (41 cm)-long pieces.\\nRemember to use both wood glue and nails to reinforce the frame of the rack.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Nail 4 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards into the corners of the bottom rack.\", \"描述\": \"Align the remaining boards in each corner of the rack and nail them into the bottom rack with 3 in (7.6 cm) nails. Each board should be positioned in the corner the same way so that you can easily attach the roof to the rack.\\nPut 2 nails in each of the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Nail the top frame into the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards.\", \"描述\": \"Lower the frame onto its side so that you can easily position the roof around the 3 ft (91 cm)-long boards. Nail each of the boards into the top frame to complete your project.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Place the rack on concrete slabs or gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Keeping the rack slightly elevated off the ground will increase the longevity of the wood. You can now stack your wood in a contained firewood rack.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Place aluminum siding or a tarp over the rack to add a roof.\", \"描述\": \"A roof will prevent your wood from getting wet if you plan on keeping your rack outside. Get a piece of aluminum siding or tarp that's the same size as the top frame of the rack and place it over the rack. Then, use nails to secure the siding to the rack.\\nSpace each nail 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,343
How to Build a Flag Display Case
1. Steps 1-1. Find out which size of flag you will be building a flag display case (fdc) for. 3x5, 4x6, 5x9 (burial). 1-2. Measure the folded flag. You will need the bottom (horizontal) measurement along with the two diagonal measurements. Also, get the thickness of the folded flag. For this example we will use the 5x9 burial-- bottom msmt: 24" diagonal msmt: 16-3/4" thickness: 2-3/4" 1-3. Decide on the type of wood you will be using. Hardwoods are a better choice for this project. This is for reasons of visual appeal and longevity. For this example, we will use oak. A 1x4 piece of oak actually measures 3 1/2" in width, which is fine. Buy an 8 foot (2.4 m) length (for beginners, in case there are mistakes). 1-4. To cut the wood, and seeing that the flag is triangular in shape, cut the angles on a 45 degree. You can do this with a circular saw or a chop saw (miter saw). Chop saws give a much better cut. The bottom measurement of the flag is 24", so the inside measurement of the 45 degree cuts must be at least 24". I recommend cutting the length of 1/4. (little play room for glass and flag). You should have approx. 6 feet (1.8 m) of board left. As you know, wood has a grain pattern. What follows now will give your case more of a professional look. 1-5. Measure off the longest portion of the angled 6' board (that's your long point of that particular angle, the other is the short point of that particular angle). Your angled measurements are 16 3/4", short point to short point. However, you will be cutting it 3" longer than that (for mistakes), so lets just cut our side pieces 20" long. short to short. Measure off the 6' board from long point 20". Using a speed square or framing square, make a mark and cut your piece. (set this piece aside) The longer remaining piece should have a short point. 1-6. Your objective now is to turn that piece around 180 degrees, and cut the short point again in order to make it a long point. Once you do this, your two 45 degree angles at the top of the display case will fit and the grain will match. it will look continuous. (Match up all the angled pieces until you find that grain match). When you place the bottom piece up to the angled side pieces to form the triangle, you will notice that the side pieces are too long. Just pencil mark the bottom where it hangs over the bottom piece. That now is going to be cut at a 45 degree. Make sure you cut the 45 degree angle the correct way, your end product should be a short to short angled piece. If it helps; when you are marking the piece to be cut, also mark the side of the board so you know for sure, which way the wood should be cut. 1-7. Tack the frame together or use a strap to hold it in position. 1-8. Measure the size of glass you will need. We can measure the glass in two ways: The exact size, minus 1/8th inch. (if there is going to be a wooden corner cover over the glass and attach it to the frame.) or We can measure the glass 1/4" larger if we are going to insert it into the frame. Buy an 8' piece of wooden corner board (for outside corners of walls) it is 3/4" long on each side of the 45 degree angle. Cut this to fit the outside of the triangular frame you just made. You can insert the glass from the back side after the glass is inserted, then you can cut and place 3 pieces of 1/4" x 1/4" moulding on the inside to hold the glass in place. Inset glass involves using a table saw. If you have one or can use one, this is what you do. You set your guide that's on the table saw to 1/4" from the inside of the saw blade to the guide itself. Set the depth of the blade to 1/8th inch. If you know at the beginning that you will be insetting the glass, then cut the entire 8' length of board at one time. It's very difficult to cut small pieces like this and have it turn out correctly. If you have never used a table saw, ask someone that has to preform this next step. 1-9. Take the piece or pieces and with the table saw in operation, slowly guide the piece along the guide. making sure not too force the cut. be gentle. its wise to use a forked stick to push the wood through its cutting process. There are jigs out there that can be purchased for just this job. Call a do-it-yourself place. they can help you. Once you have your cuts made, you are ready to nail it together. 1-10. Use small trim nails (1 1/4) long and nail frame together, with glass inserted into the cut grooves you just made (set nails with punch and color putty when done). This is much easier done if you have a brad gun. Also place the frame so the glass is face down, so it doesn't break if it falls out during this process. 1-11. Take the frame and place it on some 1/4" ply (or oak paneling) and trace the outside of your frame. 1-12. Cut this out for the backing of your display case. (stain edges with proper color. For oak, you can use minwax-colonial maple or early American.) 1-13. You can drill about 8 pilot holes through the 1/4" ply into the wood frame. (on the back side) for screws. 1-14. Insert your burial flag. 1-15. Insert your screws.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Find out which size of flag you will be building a flag display case (fdc) for.\\n3x5, 4x6, 5x9 (burial).\\n1-2. Measure the folded flag.\\nYou will need the bottom (horizontal) measurement along with the two diagonal measurements. Also, get the thickness of the folded flag.\\nFor this example we will use the 5x9 burial--\\nbottom msmt: 24\\\"\\ndiagonal msmt: 16-3/4\\\"\\nthickness: 2-3/4\\\"\\n1-3. Decide on the type of wood you will be using.\\nHardwoods are a better choice for this project. This is for reasons of visual appeal and longevity. For this example, we will use oak.\\nA 1x4 piece of oak actually measures 3 1/2\\\" in width, which is fine.\\nBuy an 8 foot (2.4 m) length (for beginners, in case there are mistakes).\\n1-4. To cut the wood, and seeing that the flag is triangular in shape, cut the angles on a 45 degree.\\nYou can do this with a circular saw or a chop saw (miter saw). Chop saws give a much better cut.\\nThe bottom measurement of the flag is 24\\\", so the inside measurement of the 45 degree cuts must be at least 24\\\". I recommend cutting the length of 1/4. (little play room for glass and flag).\\nYou should have approx. 6 feet (1.8 m) of board left. As you know, wood has a grain pattern. What follows now will give your case more of a professional look.\\n1-5. Measure off the longest portion of the angled 6' board (that's your long point of that particular angle, the other is the short point of that particular angle).\\nYour angled measurements are 16 3/4\\\", short point to short point. However, you will be cutting it 3\\\" longer than that (for mistakes), so lets just cut our side pieces 20\\\" long. short to short.\\nMeasure off the 6' board from long point 20\\\". Using a speed square or framing square, make a mark and cut your piece. (set this piece aside)\\nThe longer remaining piece should have a short point.\\n1-6. Your objective now is to turn that piece around 180 degrees, and cut the short point again in order to make it a long point.\\nOnce you do this, your two 45 degree angles at the top of the display case will fit and the grain will match. it will look continuous. (Match up all the angled pieces until you find that grain match).\\nWhen you place the bottom piece up to the angled side pieces to form the triangle, you will notice that the side pieces are too long. Just pencil mark the bottom where it hangs over the bottom piece. That now is going to be cut at a 45 degree. Make sure you cut the 45 degree angle the correct way, your end product should be a short to short angled piece. If it helps; when you are marking the piece to be cut, also mark the side of the board so you know for sure, which way the wood should be cut.\\n1-7. Tack the frame together or use a strap to hold it in position.\\n\\n1-8. Measure the size of glass you will need.\\nWe can measure the glass in two ways:\\nThe exact size, minus 1/8th inch. (if there is going to be a wooden corner cover over the glass and attach it to the frame.) or\\nWe can measure the glass 1/4\\\" larger if we are going to insert it into the frame.\\nBuy an 8' piece of wooden corner board (for outside corners of walls) it is 3/4\\\" long on each side of the 45 degree angle. Cut this to fit the outside of the triangular frame you just made. You can insert the glass from the back side after the glass is inserted, then you can cut and place 3 pieces of 1/4\\\" x 1/4\\\" moulding on the inside to hold the glass in place.\\nInset glass involves using a table saw. If you have one or can use one, this is what you do.\\n\\n\\nYou set your guide that's on the table saw to 1/4\\\" from the inside of the saw blade to the guide itself.\\nSet the depth of the blade to 1/8th inch.\\nIf you know at the beginning that you will be insetting the glass, then cut the entire 8' length of board at one time. It's very difficult to cut small pieces like this and have it turn out correctly.\\nIf you have never used a table saw, ask someone that has to preform this next step.\\n1-9. Take the piece or pieces and with the table saw in operation, slowly guide the piece along the guide.\\nmaking sure not too force the cut. be gentle. its wise to use a forked stick to push the wood through its cutting process.\\nThere are jigs out there that can be purchased for just this job. Call a do-it-yourself place. they can help you.\\nOnce you have your cuts made, you are ready to nail it together.\\n1-10. Use small trim nails (1 1/4) long and nail frame together, with glass inserted into the cut grooves you just made (set nails with punch and color putty when done).\\nThis is much easier done if you have a brad gun. Also place the frame so the glass is face down, so it doesn't break if it falls out during this process.\\n1-11. Take the frame and place it on some 1/4\\\" ply (or oak paneling) and trace the outside of your frame.\\n\\n1-12. Cut this out for the backing of your display case.\\n(stain edges with proper color. For oak, you can use minwax-colonial maple or early American.)\\n1-13. You can drill about 8 pilot holes through the 1/4\\\" ply into the wood frame.\\n(on the back side) for screws.\\n1-14. Insert your burial flag.\\n\\n1-15. Insert your screws.\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This article explains how to build a flag display case that can be used to safely house and display valuable flags.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find out which size of flag you will be building a flag display case (fdc) for.\", \"描述\": \"3x5, 4x6, 5x9 (burial).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the folded flag.\", \"描述\": \"You will need the bottom (horizontal) measurement along with the two diagonal measurements. Also, get the thickness of the folded flag.\\nFor this example we will use the 5x9 burial--\\nbottom msmt: 24\\\"\\ndiagonal msmt: 16-3/4\\\"\\nthickness: 2-3/4\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on the type of wood you will be using.\", \"描述\": \"Hardwoods are a better choice for this project. This is for reasons of visual appeal and longevity. For this example, we will use oak.\\nA 1x4 piece of oak actually measures 3 1/2\\\" in width, which is fine.\\nBuy an 8 foot (2.4 m) length (for beginners, in case there are mistakes).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"To cut the wood, and seeing that the flag is triangular in shape, cut the angles on a 45 degree.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this with a circular saw or a chop saw (miter saw). Chop saws give a much better cut.\\nThe bottom measurement of the flag is 24\\\", so the inside measurement of the 45 degree cuts must be at least 24\\\". I recommend cutting the length of 1/4. (little play room for glass and flag).\\nYou should have approx. 6 feet (1.8 m) of board left. As you know, wood has a grain pattern. What follows now will give your case more of a professional look.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Measure off the longest portion of the angled 6' board (that's your long point of that particular angle, the other is the short point of that particular angle).\", \"描述\": \"Your angled measurements are 16 3/4\\\", short point to short point. However, you will be cutting it 3\\\" longer than that (for mistakes), so lets just cut our side pieces 20\\\" long. short to short.\\nMeasure off the 6' board from long point 20\\\". Using a speed square or framing square, make a mark and cut your piece. (set this piece aside)\\nThe longer remaining piece should have a short point.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Your objective now is to turn that piece around 180 degrees, and cut the short point again in order to make it a long point.\", \"描述\": \"Once you do this, your two 45 degree angles at the top of the display case will fit and the grain will match. it will look continuous. (Match up all the angled pieces until you find that grain match).\\nWhen you place the bottom piece up to the angled side pieces to form the triangle, you will notice that the side pieces are too long. Just pencil mark the bottom where it hangs over the bottom piece. That now is going to be cut at a 45 degree. Make sure you cut the 45 degree angle the correct way, your end product should be a short to short angled piece. If it helps; when you are marking the piece to be cut, also mark the side of the board so you know for sure, which way the wood should be cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tack the frame together or use a strap to hold it in position.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Measure the size of glass you will need.\", \"描述\": \"We can measure the glass in two ways:\\nThe exact size, minus 1/8th inch. (if there is going to be a wooden corner cover over the glass and attach it to the frame.) or\\nWe can measure the glass 1/4\\\" larger if we are going to insert it into the frame.\\nBuy an 8' piece of wooden corner board (for outside corners of walls) it is 3/4\\\" long on each side of the 45 degree angle. Cut this to fit the outside of the triangular frame you just made. You can insert the glass from the back side after the glass is inserted, then you can cut and place 3 pieces of 1/4\\\" x 1/4\\\" moulding on the inside to hold the glass in place.\\nInset glass involves using a table saw. If you have one or can use one, this is what you do.\\n\\n\\nYou set your guide that's on the table saw to 1/4\\\" from the inside of the saw blade to the guide itself.\\nSet the depth of the blade to 1/8th inch.\\nIf you know at the beginning that you will be insetting the glass, then cut the entire 8' length of board at one time. It's very difficult to cut small pieces like this and have it turn out correctly.\\nIf you have never used a table saw, ask someone that has to preform this next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Take the piece or pieces and with the table saw in operation, slowly guide the piece along the guide.\", \"描述\": \"making sure not too force the cut. be gentle. its wise to use a forked stick to push the wood through its cutting process.\\nThere are jigs out there that can be purchased for just this job. Call a do-it-yourself place. they can help you.\\nOnce you have your cuts made, you are ready to nail it together.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Use small trim nails (1 1/4) long and nail frame together, with glass inserted into the cut grooves you just made (set nails with punch and color putty when done).\", \"描述\": \"This is much easier done if you have a brad gun. Also place the frame so the glass is face down, so it doesn't break if it falls out during this process.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Take the frame and place it on some 1/4\\\" ply (or oak paneling) and trace the outside of your frame.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Cut this out for the backing of your display case.\", \"描述\": \"(stain edges with proper color. For oak, you can use minwax-colonial maple or early American.)\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"You can drill about 8 pilot holes through the 1/4\\\" ply into the wood frame.\", \"描述\": \"(on the back side) for screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Insert your burial flag.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Insert your screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,344
How to Build a Float
1. Steps 1-1. Contact the Parade Organizers. Many times, the parade committee will have resources to help you build your float. They should also have entry information (time to be at the formation area, insurance waivers, vehicle or decorating requirements) and the rules and regulations to ensure a safe parade. 1-2. Choose the theme for your float. This will depend on the type of parade or venue you will be displaying it in. A sports theme or Christmas float will not fit in well at a Mardi Gras parade. Be realistic in the scope of your project. If you have a certain message you hope your float conveys, whether it is Christmas greetings or a patriotic theme, think small for your first venture into this type of project. 1-3. Form a design team to work out the list of materials you will need and to assign specific work areas. The complexity of the project may require painters, model builders, carpenters, and the like. Having someone talented or skilled in these areas will make the job much easier. 1-4. Find funding Crepe paper, craft paper, flame retardant Floral Sheeting, poultry netting, paint, lumber, and all the other materials you may find you need are not cheap. Some local businesses like craft shops and hardware stores may be willing to donate, especially if their name can be incorporated as advertising in some non-obtrusive manner. 1-5. Pick the platform for your float. Usually, this is a flatbed trailer of some sort, and it needs to be available for a fairly long period, and be in good condition. No parade master appreciates a broken down float in their show. Make sure your platform's axle is rated for the amount of weight you putting on it. 1-6. Find a garage or other "out-of-the-weather" location for your work. You will need room to fabricate the details of your float, as well as to set up your trailer for the actual installation of them. 1-7. Get your workers together. If you are in a club, school class, or other organization, schedule work times and try to get commitments from the volunteers who sign on to help. This is where good leadership will come in handy. 1-8. Skirt it. Many floats are skirted with either plywood with fringe stapled on the bottom edge; extra-long fringe or table skirting; or poultry netting, a.k.a Chicken Wire with 1" holes wrapped around the base of the trailer hanging down close to the ground. Tissue paper "pomps" can be "gathered" to tuck into the holes in the poultry netting to make colorful designs, spell out messages, or form other artwork. 1-9. Set up platforms or stages. If you are building a multilevel float, you will want to build frames to support each "stage", or deck. This can be done using 2x4 lumber framing with a plywood decking and should use material strong enough to support anything which will set upon this deck or be built above it. You could also stack pallets and secure them together and to the deck. Usually, each tier, or stage, will have its skirt or wall of sorts around it. 1-10. Hook up lights or sound systems if you desire them. Sometimes, a small portable generator can be either concealed in the framework of your float or carried in the back of the truck towing the float with an extension cord running to the electrical devices that you need power for. You may want to ask the parade organizers if they have a qualified electrician to ask questions or take a look at your work. All cord and cables should be secured to prevent pinching, dragging and disconnection. The generator should be well-ventilated, far away from the passenger compartment, as quiet as possible, and operated where there is no risk of fire or fumes accumulating from it. 1-11. Take it on a test run. Ideally, you can find an out of the way place to make a practice pull of your new float. This will give you a chance to see if all of the decorations are securely attached and find out how it handles. Depending on how large and elaborate your float is, you may find you need a more powerful vehicle to tow it. 1-12. Go to the parade and show off your awesome, new float! Tips Use bright, vibrant colors, and seasonal motifs where appropriate. Getting people to commit to the long hours of work, and getting them to act as a team is a big step toward success. Use a flatbed trailer. They are much much easier to decorate and work with. Warnings Keep a fire extinguisher & first aid kit within easy reach for emergencies. People riding on your float should have a safe place to sit, or clear areas to stand and have stanchions or hand-holds in case of sudden braking. even brakes at 5 mph (8.0 km/h) can send riders tumbling. Have adults to supervise if small children are riding the float. If children are allowed to ride, they should be seated and belted - no legs dangling over the edge of the float. Make sure the driver has visibility to the street in front and sides to see any children that may dart out in front of the vehicle. If not, have a spotter or two walks alongside the driver. Never throw anything off afloat! If you want to distribute something, have walkers alongside hand them to the crowd (check with parade committee first) Follow instructions from the parade master or grandmaster carefully. Handrails can be incorporated in the design of your float if they are needed for safety, especially if you have high stages for riders. Plan your route to & from the parade - dips in driveways can break plywood skirting & overhanging trees can snag a corner of your backdrop. Give yourself enough time - Your float should travel at 25 mph (40 km/h) or slower to keep decorations from flying off.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Contact the Parade Organizers.\\nMany times, the parade committee will have resources to help you build your float. They should also have entry information (time to be at the formation area, insurance waivers, vehicle or decorating requirements) and the rules and regulations to ensure a safe parade.\\n1-2. Choose the theme for your float.\\nThis will depend on the type of parade or venue you will be displaying it in. A sports theme or Christmas float will not fit in well at a Mardi Gras parade.\\nBe realistic in the scope of your project. If you have a certain message you hope your float conveys, whether it is Christmas greetings or a patriotic theme, think small for your first venture into this type of project.\\n1-3. Form a design team to work out the list of materials you will need and to assign specific work areas.\\nThe complexity of the project may require painters, model builders, carpenters, and the like. Having someone talented or skilled in these areas will make the job much easier.\\n1-4. Find funding\\nCrepe paper, craft paper, flame retardant Floral Sheeting, poultry netting, paint, lumber, and all the other materials you may find you need are not cheap. Some local businesses like craft shops and hardware stores may be willing to donate, especially if their name can be incorporated as advertising in some non-obtrusive manner.\\n1-5. Pick the platform for your float.\\nUsually, this is a flatbed trailer of some sort, and it needs to be available for a fairly long period, and be in good condition. No parade master appreciates a broken down float in their show. Make sure your platform's axle is rated for the amount of weight you putting on it.\\n1-6. Find a garage or other \\\"out-of-the-weather\\\" location for your work.\\nYou will need room to fabricate the details of your float, as well as to set up your trailer for the actual installation of them.\\n1-7. Get your workers together.\\nIf you are in a club, school class, or other organization, schedule work times and try to get commitments from the volunteers who sign on to help. This is where good leadership will come in handy.\\n1-8. Skirt it.\\nMany floats are skirted with either plywood with fringe stapled on the bottom edge; extra-long fringe or table skirting; or poultry netting, a.k.a Chicken Wire with 1\\\" holes wrapped around the base of the trailer hanging down close to the ground. Tissue paper \\\"pomps\\\" can be \\\"gathered\\\" to tuck into the holes in the poultry netting to make colorful designs, spell out messages, or form other artwork.\\n1-9. Set up platforms or stages.\\nIf you are building a multilevel float, you will want to build frames to support each \\\"stage\\\", or deck. This can be done using 2x4 lumber framing with a plywood decking and should use material strong enough to support anything which will set upon this deck or be built above it. You could also stack pallets and secure them together and to the deck. Usually, each tier, or stage, will have its skirt or wall of sorts around it.\\n1-10. Hook up lights or sound systems if you desire them.\\nSometimes, a small portable generator can be either concealed in the framework of your float or carried in the back of the truck towing the float with an extension cord running to the electrical devices that you need power for. You may want to ask the parade organizers if they have a qualified electrician to ask questions or take a look at your work. All cord and cables should be secured to prevent pinching, dragging and disconnection. The generator should be well-ventilated, far away from the passenger compartment, as quiet as possible, and operated where there is no risk of fire or fumes accumulating from it.\\n1-11. Take it on a test run.\\nIdeally, you can find an out of the way place to make a practice pull of your new float. This will give you a chance to see if all of the decorations are securely attached and find out how it handles. Depending on how large and elaborate your float is, you may find you need a more powerful vehicle to tow it.\\n1-12. Go to the parade and show off your awesome, new float!\\n\\nTips\\nUse bright, vibrant colors, and seasonal motifs where appropriate.\\nGetting people to commit to the long hours of work, and getting them to act as a team is a big step toward success.\\nUse a flatbed trailer. They are much much easier to decorate and work with.\\nWarnings\\nKeep a fire extinguisher & first aid kit within easy reach for emergencies.\\nPeople riding on your float should have a safe place to sit, or clear areas to stand and have stanchions or hand-holds in case of sudden braking. even brakes at 5 mph (8.0 km/h) can send riders tumbling.\\nHave adults to supervise if small children are riding the float. If children are allowed to ride, they should be seated and belted - no legs dangling over the edge of the float.\\nMake sure the driver has visibility to the street in front and sides to see any children that may dart out in front of the vehicle. If not, have a spotter or two walks alongside the driver.\\nNever throw anything off afloat! If you want to distribute something, have walkers alongside hand them to the crowd (check with parade committee first)\\nFollow instructions from the parade master or grandmaster carefully.\\nHandrails can be incorporated in the design of your float if they are needed for safety, especially if you have high stages for riders.\\nPlan your route to & from the parade - dips in driveways can break plywood skirting & overhanging trees can snag a corner of your backdrop. Give yourself enough time - Your float should travel at 25 mph (40 km/h) or slower to keep decorations from flying off.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a float for the local holiday parade is one of those projects which require careful planning, teamwork, design, and lots of effort. Get your materials and helpers together before you dive into the project for a successful venture.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Contact the Parade Organizers.\", \"描述\": \"Many times, the parade committee will have resources to help you build your float. They should also have entry information (time to be at the formation area, insurance waivers, vehicle or decorating requirements) and the rules and regulations to ensure a safe parade.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose the theme for your float.\", \"描述\": \"This will depend on the type of parade or venue you will be displaying it in. A sports theme or Christmas float will not fit in well at a Mardi Gras parade.\\nBe realistic in the scope of your project. If you have a certain message you hope your float conveys, whether it is Christmas greetings or a patriotic theme, think small for your first venture into this type of project.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Form a design team to work out the list of materials you will need and to assign specific work areas.\", \"描述\": \"The complexity of the project may require painters, model builders, carpenters, and the like. Having someone talented or skilled in these areas will make the job much easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Find funding\", \"描述\": \"Crepe paper, craft paper, flame retardant Floral Sheeting, poultry netting, paint, lumber, and all the other materials you may find you need are not cheap. Some local businesses like craft shops and hardware stores may be willing to donate, especially if their name can be incorporated as advertising in some non-obtrusive manner.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick the platform for your float.\", \"描述\": \"Usually, this is a flatbed trailer of some sort, and it needs to be available for a fairly long period, and be in good condition. No parade master appreciates a broken down float in their show. Make sure your platform's axle is rated for the amount of weight you putting on it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Find a garage or other \\\"out-of-the-weather\\\" location for your work.\", \"描述\": \"You will need room to fabricate the details of your float, as well as to set up your trailer for the actual installation of them.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Get your workers together.\", \"描述\": \"If you are in a club, school class, or other organization, schedule work times and try to get commitments from the volunteers who sign on to help. This is where good leadership will come in handy.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Skirt it.\", \"描述\": \"Many floats are skirted with either plywood with fringe stapled on the bottom edge; extra-long fringe or table skirting; or poultry netting, a.k.a Chicken Wire with 1\\\" holes wrapped around the base of the trailer hanging down close to the ground. Tissue paper \\\"pomps\\\" can be \\\"gathered\\\" to tuck into the holes in the poultry netting to make colorful designs, spell out messages, or form other artwork.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Set up platforms or stages.\", \"描述\": \"If you are building a multilevel float, you will want to build frames to support each \\\"stage\\\", or deck. This can be done using 2x4 lumber framing with a plywood decking and should use material strong enough to support anything which will set upon this deck or be built above it. You could also stack pallets and secure them together and to the deck. Usually, each tier, or stage, will have its skirt or wall of sorts around it.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Hook up lights or sound systems if you desire them.\", \"描述\": \"Sometimes, a small portable generator can be either concealed in the framework of your float or carried in the back of the truck towing the float with an extension cord running to the electrical devices that you need power for. You may want to ask the parade organizers if they have a qualified electrician to ask questions or take a look at your work. All cord and cables should be secured to prevent pinching, dragging and disconnection. The generator should be well-ventilated, far away from the passenger compartment, as quiet as possible, and operated where there is no risk of fire or fumes accumulating from it.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Take it on a test run.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally, you can find an out of the way place to make a practice pull of your new float. This will give you a chance to see if all of the decorations are securely attached and find out how it handles. Depending on how large and elaborate your float is, you may find you need a more powerful vehicle to tow it.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Go to the parade and show off your awesome, new float!\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use bright, vibrant colors, and seasonal motifs where appropriate.\\n\", \"Getting people to commit to the long hours of work, and getting them to act as a team is a big step toward success.\\n\", \"Use a flatbed trailer. They are much much easier to decorate and work with.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep a fire extinguisher & first aid kit within easy reach for emergencies.\\n\", \"People riding on your float should have a safe place to sit, or clear areas to stand and have stanchions or hand-holds in case of sudden braking. even brakes at 5 mph (8.0 km/h) can send riders tumbling.\\n\", \"Have adults to supervise if small children are riding the float. If children are allowed to ride, they should be seated and belted - no legs dangling over the edge of the float.\\n\", \"Make sure the driver has visibility to the street in front and sides to see any children that may dart out in front of the vehicle. If not, have a spotter or two walks alongside the driver.\\n\", \"Never throw anything off afloat! If you want to distribute something, have walkers alongside hand them to the crowd (check with parade committee first)\\n\", \"Follow instructions from the parade master or grandmaster carefully.\\n\", \"Handrails can be incorporated in the design of your float if they are needed for safety, especially if you have high stages for riders.\\n\", \"Plan your route to & from the parade - dips in driveways can break plywood skirting & overhanging trees can snag a corner of your backdrop. Give yourself enough time - Your float should travel at 25 mph (40 km/h) or slower to keep decorations from flying off.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,345
How to Build a Folding Screen
1. Steps 1-1. Gather 3 plantation-style shutters. If buying new shutters, purchase 3 of the same size. If you're buying salvaged shutters, trim them so that they are uniform in size. 1-2. Lay the 3 shutters across 2 sawhorses with the top edges aligned. Clamp them together in several places so that they will not move while you do any necessary repairs. 1-3. Examine the shutters and repair as necessary, using wood putty to fill in holes or cracks. Sand smooth and, if desired, apply the finish of your choice. Allow the finish to dry, periodically opening and shutting the louvers so they do not get fixed in 1 position. 1-4. Lay 2 shutters side-by-side, face-up, on a worktable. Measure down approximately 12 in. (30.5 cm) from the top right side of the 1st shutter and make a pencil mark. Measure the same distance from the bottom of the shutter and make another mark. These marks are where your hinges will be placed. 1-5. Align the middle hole of 1 hinge on the top mark, and use that as a guide to mark the other 2 holes of the hinge. Repeat on the bottom hinge and on the left side of the 2nd door. 1-6. Pre-drill screw holes with an electric drill, and fasten the hinges on the front of the 1st 2 shutters using a screwdriver or your electric drill fitted with a screwdriver bit. 1-7. Turn the shutters face down with the 2 already hinged together on your right side. Attach the hinges for these shutters exactly as you did before except that these go on the back so that the screen can fold properly. 1-8. Attach vinyl furniture glides on the left and right bottom edges of the 2 end panels to protect your floors. This is especially helpful if you are using your screen as a portable room divider or privacy screen. Tips You can make a room divider uniquely suited to your décor by using wooden panels cut to size and painting or wallpapering as you wish. You can make your folding screen even more portable by installing small rubber casters to the bottom rather than furniture glides. Warnings If you choose to visit a construction salvage yard for your materials, wear old clothes and bring heavy gloves and eye protection.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather 3 plantation-style shutters.\\nIf buying new shutters, purchase 3 of the same size. If you're buying salvaged shutters, trim them so that they are uniform in size.\\n1-2. Lay the 3 shutters across 2 sawhorses with the top edges aligned.\\nClamp them together in several places so that they will not move while you do any necessary repairs.\\n1-3. Examine the shutters and repair as necessary, using wood putty to fill in holes or cracks.\\nSand smooth and, if desired, apply the finish of your choice. Allow the finish to dry, periodically opening and shutting the louvers so they do not get fixed in 1 position.\\n1-4. Lay 2 shutters side-by-side, face-up, on a worktable.\\nMeasure down approximately 12 in. (30.5 cm) from the top right side of the 1st shutter and make a pencil mark. Measure the same distance from the bottom of the shutter and make another mark. These marks are where your hinges will be placed.\\n1-5. Align the middle hole of 1 hinge on the top mark, and use that as a guide to mark the other 2 holes of the hinge.\\nRepeat on the bottom hinge and on the left side of the 2nd door.\\n1-6. Pre-drill screw holes with an electric drill, and fasten the hinges on the front of the 1st 2 shutters using a screwdriver or your electric drill fitted with a screwdriver bit.\\n\\n1-7. Turn the shutters face down with the 2 already hinged together on your right side.\\nAttach the hinges for these shutters exactly as you did before except that these go on the back so that the screen can fold properly.\\n1-8. Attach vinyl furniture glides on the left and right bottom edges of the 2 end panels to protect your floors.\\nThis is especially helpful if you are using your screen as a portable room divider or privacy screen.\\nTips\\nYou can make a room divider uniquely suited to your décor by using wooden panels cut to size and painting or wallpapering as you wish.\\nYou can make your folding screen even more portable by installing small rubber casters to the bottom rather than furniture glides.\\nWarnings\\nIf you choose to visit a construction salvage yard for your materials, wear old clothes and bring heavy gloves and eye protection.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Folding screens have been in use for thousands of years. Tombs in China dating from the Han dynasty in 200 BC have depictions of folding screens decorating their walls. The screens are heavy wooden structures with panels held together by leather thongs run through holes at the edges of the panels. Today's folding screens are very similar to those screens so long ago and serve essentially the same purpose; to serve as a room divider, provide privacy or as a decorative accessory. You can pick up all the materials necessary to build your own screen at your local hardware store or at a construction salvage yard.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather 3 plantation-style shutters.\", \"描述\": \"If buying new shutters, purchase 3 of the same size. If you're buying salvaged shutters, trim them so that they are uniform in size.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay the 3 shutters across 2 sawhorses with the top edges aligned.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp them together in several places so that they will not move while you do any necessary repairs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Examine the shutters and repair as necessary, using wood putty to fill in holes or cracks.\", \"描述\": \"Sand smooth and, if desired, apply the finish of your choice. Allow the finish to dry, periodically opening and shutting the louvers so they do not get fixed in 1 position.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay 2 shutters side-by-side, face-up, on a worktable.\", \"描述\": \"Measure down approximately 12 in. (30.5 cm) from the top right side of the 1st shutter and make a pencil mark. Measure the same distance from the bottom of the shutter and make another mark. These marks are where your hinges will be placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Align the middle hole of 1 hinge on the top mark, and use that as a guide to mark the other 2 holes of the hinge.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat on the bottom hinge and on the left side of the 2nd door.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill screw holes with an electric drill, and fasten the hinges on the front of the 1st 2 shutters using a screwdriver or your electric drill fitted with a screwdriver bit.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Turn the shutters face down with the 2 already hinged together on your right side.\", \"描述\": \"Attach the hinges for these shutters exactly as you did before except that these go on the back so that the screen can fold properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach vinyl furniture glides on the left and right bottom edges of the 2 end panels to protect your floors.\", \"描述\": \"This is especially helpful if you are using your screen as a portable room divider or privacy screen.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can make a room divider uniquely suited to your décor by using wooden panels cut to size and painting or wallpapering as you wish.\\n\", \"You can make your folding screen even more portable by installing small rubber casters to the bottom rather than furniture glides.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If you choose to visit a construction salvage yard for your materials, wear old clothes and bring heavy gloves and eye protection.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,346
How to Build a Forge
1. Constructing a Coal Forge 1-1. Get 2 stainless steel sinks for the base. A popular base for coal forges is some kind of stainless steel, be it an old kitchen sink, air tank, or large pot. This acts as a burning chamber for the metal. Make sure to use 2 sinks, one filled with water and one covered in cement. The reason sinks are so useful is because they already have a hole in the bottom of them that act as the drain. 1-2. Build a metal stand to hold the forge in place. Buy a set of steel pipes from your local hardware store or get some online. You should get 10 steel pipes that are each about 6 feet (1.8 m) long. The width of the steel pipes will be enough to support the 2 sinks. Cut the steel with a power saw so that you end up with 4 legs of equal length and 4 more pieces of steel to wrap around the legs and hold them together. Make each leg 2 feet (0.61 m) in length. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles when you do this, as you don’t want the excess steel to get in your eyes. The legs should be high enough off the ground so that the forge itself is about hip-high. 1-3. Drill holes into the middle of the 4 steel pipes used as legs. Use your power drill to make a hole in the middle of each steel pipe that will be used as a leg. Then, take the other 4 steel pipes and drill holes into each end of them. Place these steel pipes in between the legs to create an “H” shape and line up the holes you’ve drilled into these pipes. Run a 6 in (15 cm) screw through the legs and screw on an end cap to connect the legs with the support pipes. Wear gloves and goggles during this part of the process as well. 1-4. Run a PVC pipe from the drain to the output port on a shop vacuum. PVC is a common substitute for metal piping due to its strength and durability. Use a Y joint to connect the PVC pipe and a separate plastic pipe. Then, screw the PVC pipe onto the bottom of the drain underneath one of the sinks so you can funnel air into the forge to feed the fire. Place the other pipe off to the side, as it is used to siphon smoke away from the work area. You can pick up a shop vacuum, which supplies the air for the fire, at any home improvement store or buy one online. 1-5. Trowel refractory cement into one of the sinks to help it withstand heat. This is the same kind of cement used in furnaces and kilns, so it’s perfect for a forge. Spread the cement across the surface of the sink, making sure to evenly coat the forge. Let the machine sit overnight to allow the cement to cure. You can pick up cement at a local home improvement store or order some online. 2. Putting Together a Gas Forge 2-1. Assemble the cast-iron pieces of your gas forge. Screw the cast-iron pipe onto a 1 in (2.5 cm) reducer. Then, screw a 9 in (23 cm) piece of ¾ pipe and attach a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer onto the other end of the pipe. This forms the body of the burner. Finally, screw the end cap onto the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. You can use a wrench to tighten the fit. The two reducers can also be 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in width. 2-2. Punch a reference point into the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer. The end cap and 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe will go through the hole you create. Place a center-punch on the reducer and hammer it into the reducer to make the hole. Repeat the same motion on the other side of the reducer to give you 2 references points for your end cap and pipe. Make sure the body of the burner is completely still when you hit it with the hammer. Otherwise, the hole is going to end up in the wrong place. 2-3. Drill a 0.4 in (10 mm) hole into the burner. Use multiple drill bits until you get a hole that can fit the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. Increase the size of the drill bit you use until you have a hole big enough to fit the pipe and end cap. The drill should be able to enter through one hole and exit through the other. Put the pipe and end cap into the hole. Clear all the extra metal shaving off your work table before you move on to the next step. 2-4. Mark the center line of the pipe when it’s in the burner. Take a pen and mark the middle of the pipe. This is where you’ll be drilling the hole for the gas to exit. Make sure to remove the pipe from the burner before you drill the hole. The reason you put the pipe in the burner at first is to see if it fits tightly. 2-5. Use a number 60 drill bit to make a hole in the pipe. These are small drill bits made of wire gauges that are thin enough to make a hole in the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe without splitting it open. Apply light pressure to the pipe and work slowly, making sure not to bend the drill bit. Make sure to center-punch the hole on the pipe like you did for the burner. 2-6. Put the pipe back in the burner so that the hole faces downward. The hole in the middle of the pipe should be facing down towards the 9 in (23 cm) pipe. This allows the gas to flow directly through the burner. If the pipe is spinning in the burner and doesn’t fit tightly enough, you can add wrap some wire around the end cap to keep it from moving. 2-7. Attach the ball valve and bushing to the pipe. Put the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) ball valve on one end of the pipe and use a wrench to screw it tightly onto the pipe. Then, attach the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) bushing to the other end of the pipe and screw it on tight. You can use a 0.125 in (0.32 cm) bushing if you’d like.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing a Coal Forge\\n1-1. Get 2 stainless steel sinks for the base.\\nA popular base for coal forges is some kind of stainless steel, be it an old kitchen sink, air tank, or large pot. This acts as a burning chamber for the metal. Make sure to use 2 sinks, one filled with water and one covered in cement.\\nThe reason sinks are so useful is because they already have a hole in the bottom of them that act as the drain.\\n1-2. Build a metal stand to hold the forge in place.\\nBuy a set of steel pipes from your local hardware store or get some online. You should get 10 steel pipes that are each about 6 feet (1.8 m) long. The width of the steel pipes will be enough to support the 2 sinks. Cut the steel with a power saw so that you end up with 4 legs of equal length and 4 more pieces of steel to wrap around the legs and hold them together. Make each leg 2 feet (0.61 m) in length. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles when you do this, as you don’t want the excess steel to get in your eyes.\\nThe legs should be high enough off the ground so that the forge itself is about hip-high.\\n1-3. Drill holes into the middle of the 4 steel pipes used as legs.\\nUse your power drill to make a hole in the middle of each steel pipe that will be used as a leg. Then, take the other 4 steel pipes and drill holes into each end of them. Place these steel pipes in between the legs to create an “H” shape and line up the holes you’ve drilled into these pipes. Run a 6 in (15 cm) screw through the legs and screw on an end cap to connect the legs with the support pipes.\\nWear gloves and goggles during this part of the process as well.\\n1-4. Run a PVC pipe from the drain to the output port on a shop vacuum.\\nPVC is a common substitute for metal piping due to its strength and durability. Use a Y joint to connect the PVC pipe and a separate plastic pipe. Then, screw the PVC pipe onto the bottom of the drain underneath one of the sinks so you can funnel air into the forge to feed the fire. Place the other pipe off to the side, as it is used to siphon smoke away from the work area.\\nYou can pick up a shop vacuum, which supplies the air for the fire, at any home improvement store or buy one online.\\n1-5. Trowel refractory cement into one of the sinks to help it withstand heat.\\nThis is the same kind of cement used in furnaces and kilns, so it’s perfect for a forge. Spread the cement across the surface of the sink, making sure to evenly coat the forge. Let the machine sit overnight to allow the cement to cure. \\nYou can pick up cement at a local home improvement store or order some online.\\n2. Putting Together a Gas Forge\\n2-1. Assemble the cast-iron pieces of your gas forge.\\nScrew the cast-iron pipe onto a 1 in (2.5 cm) reducer. Then, screw a 9 in (23 cm) piece of ¾ pipe and attach a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer onto the other end of the pipe. This forms the body of the burner. Finally, screw the end cap onto the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. You can use a wrench to tighten the fit.\\nThe two reducers can also be 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in width.\\n2-2. Punch a reference point into the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer.\\nThe end cap and 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe will go through the hole you create. Place a center-punch on the reducer and hammer it into the reducer to make the hole. Repeat the same motion on the other side of the reducer to give you 2 references points for your end cap and pipe.\\nMake sure the body of the burner is completely still when you hit it with the hammer. Otherwise, the hole is going to end up in the wrong place.\\n2-3. Drill a 0.4 in (10 mm) hole into the burner.\\nUse multiple drill bits until you get a hole that can fit the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. Increase the size of the drill bit you use until you have a hole big enough to fit the pipe and end cap. The drill should be able to enter through one hole and exit through the other. Put the pipe and end cap into the hole.\\nClear all the extra metal shaving off your work table before you move on to the next step.\\n2-4. Mark the center line of the pipe when it’s in the burner.\\nTake a pen and mark the middle of the pipe. This is where you’ll be drilling the hole for the gas to exit. Make sure to remove the pipe from the burner before you drill the hole.\\nThe reason you put the pipe in the burner at first is to see if it fits tightly.\\n2-5. Use a number 60 drill bit to make a hole in the pipe.\\nThese are small drill bits made of wire gauges that are thin enough to make a hole in the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe without splitting it open. Apply light pressure to the pipe and work slowly, making sure not to bend the drill bit.\\nMake sure to center-punch the hole on the pipe like you did for the burner.\\n2-6. Put the pipe back in the burner so that the hole faces downward.\\nThe hole in the middle of the pipe should be facing down towards the 9 in (23 cm) pipe. This allows the gas to flow directly through the burner.\\nIf the pipe is spinning in the burner and doesn’t fit tightly enough, you can add wrap some wire around the end cap to keep it from moving.\\n2-7. Attach the ball valve and bushing to the pipe.\\nPut the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) ball valve on one end of the pipe and use a wrench to screw it tightly onto the pipe. Then, attach the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) bushing to the other end of the pipe and screw it on tight.\\nYou can use a 0.125 in (0.32 cm) bushing if you’d like.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A forge is a fireplace used to heat metals. When it comes to constructing a homemade forge, you have 2 major fuel options: coal and gas. A coal forge is the more traditional design, whereas a gas forge is smaller and is easier to control. Whichever design you pick, it’ll only take a few hours to construct your forge.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing a Coal Forge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get 2 stainless steel sinks for the base.\", \"描述\": \"A popular base for coal forges is some kind of stainless steel, be it an old kitchen sink, air tank, or large pot. This acts as a burning chamber for the metal. Make sure to use 2 sinks, one filled with water and one covered in cement.\\nThe reason sinks are so useful is because they already have a hole in the bottom of them that act as the drain.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a metal stand to hold the forge in place.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a set of steel pipes from your local hardware store or get some online. You should get 10 steel pipes that are each about 6 feet (1.8 m) long. The width of the steel pipes will be enough to support the 2 sinks. Cut the steel with a power saw so that you end up with 4 legs of equal length and 4 more pieces of steel to wrap around the legs and hold them together. Make each leg 2 feet (0.61 m) in length. Be sure to wear gloves and goggles when you do this, as you don’t want the excess steel to get in your eyes.\\nThe legs should be high enough off the ground so that the forge itself is about hip-high.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill holes into the middle of the 4 steel pipes used as legs.\", \"描述\": \"Use your power drill to make a hole in the middle of each steel pipe that will be used as a leg. Then, take the other 4 steel pipes and drill holes into each end of them. Place these steel pipes in between the legs to create an “H” shape and line up the holes you’ve drilled into these pipes. Run a 6 in (15 cm) screw through the legs and screw on an end cap to connect the legs with the support pipes.\\nWear gloves and goggles during this part of the process as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Run a PVC pipe from the drain to the output port on a shop vacuum.\", \"描述\": \"PVC is a common substitute for metal piping due to its strength and durability. Use a Y joint to connect the PVC pipe and a separate plastic pipe. Then, screw the PVC pipe onto the bottom of the drain underneath one of the sinks so you can funnel air into the forge to feed the fire. Place the other pipe off to the side, as it is used to siphon smoke away from the work area.\\nYou can pick up a shop vacuum, which supplies the air for the fire, at any home improvement store or buy one online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Trowel refractory cement into one of the sinks to help it withstand heat.\", \"描述\": \"This is the same kind of cement used in furnaces and kilns, so it’s perfect for a forge. Spread the cement across the surface of the sink, making sure to evenly coat the forge. Let the machine sit overnight to allow the cement to cure. \\nYou can pick up cement at a local home improvement store or order some online.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting Together a Gas Forge\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assemble the cast-iron pieces of your gas forge.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the cast-iron pipe onto a 1 in (2.5 cm) reducer. Then, screw a 9 in (23 cm) piece of ¾ pipe and attach a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer onto the other end of the pipe. This forms the body of the burner. Finally, screw the end cap onto the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. You can use a wrench to tighten the fit.\\nThe two reducers can also be 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in width.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Punch a reference point into the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) reducer.\", \"描述\": \"The end cap and 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe will go through the hole you create. Place a center-punch on the reducer and hammer it into the reducer to make the hole. Repeat the same motion on the other side of the reducer to give you 2 references points for your end cap and pipe.\\nMake sure the body of the burner is completely still when you hit it with the hammer. Otherwise, the hole is going to end up in the wrong place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill a 0.4 in (10 mm) hole into the burner.\", \"描述\": \"Use multiple drill bits until you get a hole that can fit the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe. Increase the size of the drill bit you use until you have a hole big enough to fit the pipe and end cap. The drill should be able to enter through one hole and exit through the other. Put the pipe and end cap into the hole.\\nClear all the extra metal shaving off your work table before you move on to the next step.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark the center line of the pipe when it’s in the burner.\", \"描述\": \"Take a pen and mark the middle of the pipe. This is where you’ll be drilling the hole for the gas to exit. Make sure to remove the pipe from the burner before you drill the hole.\\nThe reason you put the pipe in the burner at first is to see if it fits tightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a number 60 drill bit to make a hole in the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"These are small drill bits made of wire gauges that are thin enough to make a hole in the 0.125 in (0.32 cm) pipe without splitting it open. Apply light pressure to the pipe and work slowly, making sure not to bend the drill bit.\\nMake sure to center-punch the hole on the pipe like you did for the burner.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put the pipe back in the burner so that the hole faces downward.\", \"描述\": \"The hole in the middle of the pipe should be facing down towards the 9 in (23 cm) pipe. This allows the gas to flow directly through the burner.\\nIf the pipe is spinning in the burner and doesn’t fit tightly enough, you can add wrap some wire around the end cap to keep it from moving.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the ball valve and bushing to the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Put the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) ball valve on one end of the pipe and use a wrench to screw it tightly onto the pipe. Then, attach the 0.25 in (0.64 cm) bushing to the other end of the pipe and screw it on tight.\\nYou can use a 0.125 in (0.32 cm) bushing if you’d like.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,347
How to Build a Fort in 7 Days to Die
1. Preparing to Build 1-1. Find a good location. Your fort should be close to supply run locations, but not too close as to attract attention. Ensure that you have good visibility from all sides of the fort. Consider building a tall watchtower if you don't have good visibility in your chosen location. 1-2. Consider building off an existing house. It may be easier to build your fortress if you use an existing structure as the foundation. This can save you some precious materials. A fortress is a huge base that can protect and support the players inside it. Two houses will work as long as they stand close or right next to each other. A house with a basement is ideal for mining and creating underground tunnel to move around the map. Make sure to put torches inside the house to keep zombies from spawning. 1-3. Gather some materials. You will need a lot of materials to construct a well-protected fort. You'll find this process easier if you have some friends helping you. You'll need plenty of wood and stone, as well as materials for traps and other features. 2. Securing the Perimeter 2-1. Build tall walls. Zombies will be swarming your fortress almost constantly, so you'll need strong walls to repel them. Stone makes for the strongest walls, though it is the most time-consuming process. The thicker the walls are, the better. Remember that Zombies can break stone blocks if they attack it continuously. Also, there are zombies that can climb up walls if not protected; you need to set up traps around your base. 2-2. Build a walkway onto the top of the wall. This will create ramparts, allowing you to more easily defend the wall from attacking zombies. It will take some extra materials, but your fort will be much more secure. 2-3. Dig a deep ditch around your wall. Use dynamite to blast a large chasm around your fort. Attacking zombies will fall down the hole, killing them if it's deep enough. Make sure that the chasm goes all the way around your fort. You can build a bridge with a ladder hanging down to allow you access to the fort. Zombies aren't able to climb ladders. For best effect, make the sides of the chasm as smooth as possible. This will ensure that the zombies can't break their fall on protruding blocks. 2-4. Get Supplies. Your fort needs to be well supplied to survive for long days. To store your rations, you need to build a small chest or simply make use of the house's drawers and cupboards. To build a storage chest, you need 6 Plywood. Plywood can be built from Wood Planks, not from burnt or old trees. Press I; click the Storage Chest in the craft list to activate the pattern. Following the pattern, place 1 plywood per box to finish the process. Building a farm is a good source of water; you can make an infinite water hole by breaking one block off the ground and pouring water into it. The supply will be infinite as long as you use a glass jar for drinking. 3. Setting up Traps 3-1. Make Wood Spikes. Wood Spikes are traps used to defend structures by impaling zombies, players or animals. It's best to put wood spikes outside the fort, right next to the walls. To make a Wood Spike, you need 9 Sharpened Sticks. Click Wood Spikes on the craft list to acquire the highlighted pattern. Place 1 Sharpened Sticks on each box to craft. Use about 3 layers of Spikes, or more, to make sure that no zombie can survive before they can reach your fort walls. 3-2. Make Trunk Tips. The Trunk Tip is the best trap structure in the game; they make fine traps compared to wood spikes due to the fact that they don't break. However, they do give less damage and require a 2-block deep hole to place them in. To make a Trunk Tip, you need 4 Wood Blocks; any kind of wood block will do (i.e. Birch Wood, Pine Wood, Burnt Wood or Wood). Press I; click the name Trunk Tip in the craft list to activate the highlighted pattern. In each box, you put 1 Wood to complete the crafting. Before placing Trunk Tip next to your walls, make sure to dig 2-blocks deep off the ground since this kind of trap is taller, which count as though zombies are standing one block higher. 3-3. Make Barbed Fence Wire. A Barbed Fence Wire is a craftable item but can also be scavenged around the world. This is commonly used to fortify a perimeter or to block breaches in walls during the night. To make a Barbed Fence Wire, you need 2 Sticks and 1 Barbed Wire. Barbed wire can be obtained by crafting 3 Forging Iron; as a result, it will give you 15 barbed wires. Open your craft window. Make sure you have the requirements inside your inventory. Click the Barbed Fence Wire name to activate the pattern. In the middle, put 1 barbed wire then put 1 stick on either side of it. 3-4. Keep Watch. Make sure you have completely locked down the place. Block up any entry; place torches around your fortress, and then grab any range weapon you have. Zombies die because of the traps you set up earlier. There's no need for you to use your gun. Save your ammunition as much as you can and only use your range weapon for emergencies. Tips You can put Barbed Fence against the wall of your fort to stop the spider zombies from climbing; a good addition to your fortress aside from using spikes and trunk tip. Houses with rooftops are good for making a small rooftop garden as an addition to survival. It is much safer to put all your stored food in your underground shelter. Warnings Wood Spikes begin to lose durability after being stepped on until eventually be destroyed. Remember that when a chest is broken, all contents are destroyed. This is the reason why you need to put your storage chest in a safe place such as underground room.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing to Build\\n1-1. Find a good location.\\nYour fort should be close to supply run locations, but not too close as to attract attention. Ensure that you have good visibility from all sides of the fort. Consider building a tall watchtower if you don't have good visibility in your chosen location.\\n1-2. Consider building off an existing house.\\nIt may be easier to build your fortress if you use an existing structure as the foundation. This can save you some precious materials. A fortress is a huge base that can protect and support the players inside it. Two houses will work as long as they stand close or right next to each other.\\nA house with a basement is ideal for mining and creating underground tunnel to move around the map.\\nMake sure to put torches inside the house to keep zombies from spawning.\\n1-3. Gather some materials.\\nYou will need a lot of materials to construct a well-protected fort. You'll find this process easier if you have some friends helping you. You'll need plenty of wood and stone, as well as materials for traps and other features.\\n2. Securing the Perimeter\\n2-1. Build tall walls.\\nZombies will be swarming your fortress almost constantly, so you'll need strong walls to repel them. Stone makes for the strongest walls, though it is the most time-consuming process. The thicker the walls are, the better.\\nRemember that Zombies can break stone blocks if they attack it continuously.\\nAlso, there are zombies that can climb up walls if not protected; you need to set up traps around your base.\\n2-2. Build a walkway onto the top of the wall.\\nThis will create ramparts, allowing you to more easily defend the wall from attacking zombies. It will take some extra materials, but your fort will be much more secure.\\n2-3. Dig a deep ditch around your wall.\\nUse dynamite to blast a large chasm around your fort. Attacking zombies will fall down the hole, killing them if it's deep enough. Make sure that the chasm goes all the way around your fort.\\nYou can build a bridge with a ladder hanging down to allow you access to the fort. Zombies aren't able to climb ladders.\\nFor best effect, make the sides of the chasm as smooth as possible. This will ensure that the zombies can't break their fall on protruding blocks.\\n2-4. Get Supplies.\\nYour fort needs to be well supplied to survive for long days. To store your rations, you need to build a small chest or simply make use of the house's drawers and cupboards. To build a storage chest, you need 6 Plywood.\\nPlywood can be built from Wood Planks, not from burnt or old trees.\\nPress I; click the Storage Chest in the craft list to activate the pattern.\\nFollowing the pattern, place 1 plywood per box to finish the process.\\nBuilding a farm is a good source of water; you can make an infinite water hole by breaking one block off the ground and pouring water into it. The supply will be infinite as long as you use a glass jar for drinking.\\n3. Setting up Traps\\n3-1. Make Wood Spikes.\\nWood Spikes are traps used to defend structures by impaling zombies, players or animals. It's best to put wood spikes outside the fort, right next to the walls.\\nTo make a Wood Spike, you need 9 Sharpened Sticks.\\nClick Wood Spikes on the craft list to acquire the highlighted pattern. Place 1 Sharpened Sticks on each box to craft.\\nUse about 3 layers of Spikes, or more, to make sure that no zombie can survive before they can reach your fort walls.\\n3-2. Make Trunk Tips.\\nThe Trunk Tip is the best trap structure in the game; they make fine traps compared to wood spikes due to the fact that they don't break. However, they do give less damage and require a 2-block deep hole to place them in.\\nTo make a Trunk Tip, you need 4 Wood Blocks; any kind of wood block will do (i.e. Birch Wood, Pine Wood, Burnt Wood or Wood).\\nPress I; click the name Trunk Tip in the craft list to activate the highlighted pattern. In each box, you put 1 Wood to complete the crafting.\\nBefore placing Trunk Tip next to your walls, make sure to dig 2-blocks deep off the ground since this kind of trap is taller, which count as though zombies are standing one block higher.\\n3-3. Make Barbed Fence Wire.\\nA Barbed Fence Wire is a craftable item but can also be scavenged around the world. This is commonly used to fortify a perimeter or to block breaches in walls during the night.\\nTo make a Barbed Fence Wire, you need 2 Sticks and 1 Barbed Wire. Barbed wire can be obtained by crafting 3 Forging Iron; as a result, it will give you 15 barbed wires.\\nOpen your craft window. Make sure you have the requirements inside your inventory. Click the Barbed Fence Wire name to activate the pattern.\\nIn the middle, put 1 barbed wire then put 1 stick on either side of it.\\n3-4. Keep Watch.\\nMake sure you have completely locked down the place. Block up any entry; place torches around your fortress, and then grab any range weapon you have.\\nZombies die because of the traps you set up earlier. There's no need for you to use your gun. Save your ammunition as much as you can and only use your range weapon for emergencies.\\nTips\\nYou can put Barbed Fence against the wall of your fort to stop the spider zombies from climbing; a good addition to your fortress aside from using spikes and trunk tip.\\nHouses with rooftops are good for making a small rooftop garden as an addition to survival.\\nIt is much safer to put all your stored food in your underground shelter.\\nWarnings\\nWood Spikes begin to lose durability after being stepped on until eventually be destroyed.\\nRemember that when a chest is broken, all contents are destroyed. This is the reason why you need to put your storage chest in a safe place such as underground room.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Finding a house for shelter is important in 7 Days to Die. To survive long, most players build their fort using the house they found. To have a strong fort, you need to focus on two important survival rules: defense and supplies.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a good location.\", \"描述\": \"Your fort should be close to supply run locations, but not too close as to attract attention. Ensure that you have good visibility from all sides of the fort. Consider building a tall watchtower if you don't have good visibility in your chosen location.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider building off an existing house.\", \"描述\": \"It may be easier to build your fortress if you use an existing structure as the foundation. This can save you some precious materials. A fortress is a huge base that can protect and support the players inside it. Two houses will work as long as they stand close or right next to each other.\\nA house with a basement is ideal for mining and creating underground tunnel to move around the map.\\nMake sure to put torches inside the house to keep zombies from spawning.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather some materials.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a lot of materials to construct a well-protected fort. You'll find this process easier if you have some friends helping you. You'll need plenty of wood and stone, as well as materials for traps and other features.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Securing the Perimeter\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build tall walls.\", \"描述\": \"Zombies will be swarming your fortress almost constantly, so you'll need strong walls to repel them. Stone makes for the strongest walls, though it is the most time-consuming process. The thicker the walls are, the better.\\nRemember that Zombies can break stone blocks if they attack it continuously.\\nAlso, there are zombies that can climb up walls if not protected; you need to set up traps around your base.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a walkway onto the top of the wall.\", \"描述\": \"This will create ramparts, allowing you to more easily defend the wall from attacking zombies. It will take some extra materials, but your fort will be much more secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig a deep ditch around your wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use dynamite to blast a large chasm around your fort. Attacking zombies will fall down the hole, killing them if it's deep enough. Make sure that the chasm goes all the way around your fort.\\nYou can build a bridge with a ladder hanging down to allow you access to the fort. Zombies aren't able to climb ladders.\\nFor best effect, make the sides of the chasm as smooth as possible. This will ensure that the zombies can't break their fall on protruding blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get Supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Your fort needs to be well supplied to survive for long days. To store your rations, you need to build a small chest or simply make use of the house's drawers and cupboards. To build a storage chest, you need 6 Plywood.\\nPlywood can be built from Wood Planks, not from burnt or old trees.\\nPress I; click the Storage Chest in the craft list to activate the pattern.\\nFollowing the pattern, place 1 plywood per box to finish the process.\\nBuilding a farm is a good source of water; you can make an infinite water hole by breaking one block off the ground and pouring water into it. The supply will be infinite as long as you use a glass jar for drinking.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Setting up Traps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make Wood Spikes.\", \"描述\": \"Wood Spikes are traps used to defend structures by impaling zombies, players or animals. It's best to put wood spikes outside the fort, right next to the walls.\\nTo make a Wood Spike, you need 9 Sharpened Sticks.\\nClick Wood Spikes on the craft list to acquire the highlighted pattern. Place 1 Sharpened Sticks on each box to craft.\\nUse about 3 layers of Spikes, or more, to make sure that no zombie can survive before they can reach your fort walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make Trunk Tips.\", \"描述\": \"The Trunk Tip is the best trap structure in the game; they make fine traps compared to wood spikes due to the fact that they don't break. However, they do give less damage and require a 2-block deep hole to place them in.\\nTo make a Trunk Tip, you need 4 Wood Blocks; any kind of wood block will do (i.e. Birch Wood, Pine Wood, Burnt Wood or Wood).\\nPress I; click the name Trunk Tip in the craft list to activate the highlighted pattern. In each box, you put 1 Wood to complete the crafting.\\nBefore placing Trunk Tip next to your walls, make sure to dig 2-blocks deep off the ground since this kind of trap is taller, which count as though zombies are standing one block higher.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make Barbed Fence Wire.\", \"描述\": \"A Barbed Fence Wire is a craftable item but can also be scavenged around the world. This is commonly used to fortify a perimeter or to block breaches in walls during the night.\\nTo make a Barbed Fence Wire, you need 2 Sticks and 1 Barbed Wire. Barbed wire can be obtained by crafting 3 Forging Iron; as a result, it will give you 15 barbed wires.\\nOpen your craft window. Make sure you have the requirements inside your inventory. Click the Barbed Fence Wire name to activate the pattern.\\nIn the middle, put 1 barbed wire then put 1 stick on either side of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Keep Watch.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure you have completely locked down the place. Block up any entry; place torches around your fortress, and then grab any range weapon you have.\\nZombies die because of the traps you set up earlier. There's no need for you to use your gun. Save your ammunition as much as you can and only use your range weapon for emergencies.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can put Barbed Fence against the wall of your fort to stop the spider zombies from climbing; a good addition to your fortress aside from using spikes and trunk tip.\\n\", \"Houses with rooftops are good for making a small rooftop garden as an addition to survival.\\n\", \"It is much safer to put all your stored food in your underground shelter.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wood Spikes begin to lose durability after being stepped on until eventually be destroyed.\\n\", \"Remember that when a chest is broken, all contents are destroyed. This is the reason why you need to put your storage chest in a safe place such as underground room.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,348
How to Build a Fort in Your Room
1. Making a Pillow Fort 1-1. Gather as many pillows and cushions as possible. You can start with your bedroom pillows. Ask your parents if you can use extra pillows from the linen closet, sofa cushions, and the like. 1-2. Sort your pillows into groups. Soft, fluffy pillows are good for creating a luxurious floor for your fort, but aren’t as good for walls. Couch cushions and other rigid or stiff pillows work best for walls. Memory foam pillows are also a good choice for walls because they are heavy and hold their shape. 1-3. Select the furniture you will use for your fort. If you’re building the fort in your bedroom, you can obviously use your bed. Chairs, desks, and dressers are also good options. You can ask your parents if you can bring in furniture from other rooms, too. 1-4. Gather weighty items to help support your pillows. Heavy books are good to use as support, but you can also use shoes, large toys, and even canned goods (but ask your parents about that first). You’ll use these items to help prop up your pillow walls. 1-5. Build the walls. There are two basic wall construction techniques, which you can choose from depending on what types of pillows you have. Start building at your bed and use it as your primary support structure. The “sandbag” technique is best for soft, floppy pillows. Start the fort at your bed and place a row of pillows in a line outward until you have a wall as long as you want your fort. Then place another row of pillows on top of that one, and build the wall as high as you want it. Don’t go too high, though, or the fort may collapse. The “vertical support” technique is best for firmer, rigid cushions like sofa cushions. Start the fort at your bed and build the wall outward by placing the cushions on their narrow sides in a line. Support the cushions on both sides with heavy items like books to keep them from falling over. For extra sturdy walls, wrap a blanket around your walls to create a solid panel. Secure the blanket with clothespins or binder clips, then use heavy items to support the wall panels. 1-6. Construct your roof. Use sheets for the roof if you have them, because they are lighter and less likely to make your fort collapse under their weight. Stretch the sheets across the tops of your walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to connect sheets together if you need to. If you have a bunk-bed, you can create a vaulted ceiling! Tuck a sheet under the mattress on the top bunk, then pull it down toward the fort walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheet to the edges of the cushions. Use flat sheets for the roof if you can find them. Fitted sheets don’t work as well because of their elastic corners. 1-7. Secure the roof by using heavy objects like books to pin the edges of the sheet to the floor. Alternatively, you can tuck the edges of the sheets under furniture, such as the legs of your desk or your bed. 1-8. Supply your fort. All forts need rations, so get some good snacks and drinks to stash away in your fort. If you’re planning to use the fort at night, you may also want a flash light or even some twinkle lights. And of course, you’ll want some books and games for entertainment. Never use candles or other open flames inside a bedroom fort! Bedding is highly flammable. 2. Making a Teepee Fort 2-1. Gather some long sticks or poles. If you have a backyard, you may be able to get some long sticks from there. You’ll need between 5-7 fairly straight, sturdy sticks that are at least 5 feet long. If you don’t have a backyard to gather sticks from, you can ask your parents if they will purchase some long dowel rods (or even curtain rods or broomsticks) from the hardware store for you. 2-2. Gather your other materials. You’ll need twine, rope, or thick rubber bands to tie the poles together. You’ll also need several sheets or blankets to form the walls of your teepee and some clothespins or binder clips. 2-3. Lay out three sticks in a tripod formation. Lay two sticks on the ground to form an inverted “V” shape. Lay another stick in the middle of the “V” so that it looks almost like an upside-down “W”. 2-4. Tie the sticks together. The most secure way to do this is to use a clove hitch knot around the tops of the sticks. If you don’t know how to tie one, make sure to wrap the rope twine under the poles as well as around them. Leave a “tail” of rope. If you’re using rubber bands, use several around the tops of the sticks to secure them. 2-5. Get a friend to help you raise the teepee. It’s much harder to raise the teepee on your own, so ask a friend or your parents for help. It should look like a camera tripod once it’s raised. Arrange the legs so that it’s fairly stable. After the tripod is raised, place the other sticks around the center tripod. Use the rope tail to tie them to the frame, or secure them with rubber bands. 2-6. Drape the sheets over the teepee frame. Use clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheets to the sticks or poles. You can also use string or twine to tie the sheets to the frame. If you get permission from your parents to do so, punching holes in the sheets with a hole-punch makes it much easier to tie the sheets to the teepee frame. Only use old, worn-out sheets for this, and definitely ask your parents first. 2-7. Place some pillows on the floor inside the teepee. This will make a comfortable base for you to hang out in. 2-8. Bring in some supplies. You’ll probably want some snacks and drinks to enjoy in your fort. Books, games, and maybe a laptop will give you fun things to do. If you want to decorate the inside of your teepee, you can string twinkle lights around the sticks and plug them in. 3. Making a Blanket and Furniture Fort 3-1. Gather your construction materials. For this type of fort, you’ll want as many pillows, blankets, and sheets as you can find. You’ll also need several items of furniture that you can move around into a circle. Get an adult to help you with very heavy furniture such as dressers. Don’t try to move your bed, just build around it. 3-2. Move your furniture into a circle around your bed. The bed is probably too big and heavy to move, so just pull the other furniture into a ring using the bed as your starting place. Chairs, desks, and tables work well, as do nightstands and dressers. 3-3. Fill up any gaps in the furniture with pillows. If you want some light to come in, you can leave places such as under chairs open. For a completely secure fort, fill in all the holes. 3-4. Place the flooring. You’ll want the floor of your fort to be soft and cozy, so lay down some soft pillows. You can also use fluffy bath towels or down comforters, if you have them. If you use pillows, spread a blanket across all of them to create a solid floor. 3-5. Construct the roof. Use sheets to build your roof because they don’t weigh as much as blankets. Secure your roof sheets to the furniture using heavy objects such as books, as well as fasteners like clothespins and binder clips. You can tuck the roof sheets into dresser drawers and secure them to the drawers with clothespins or binder clips. This will give you a higher, angled roof. Tuck some roof sheets under your mattress for a secure hold. If you used furniture with hard, flat surfaces such as desk tops and chair bottoms, you can hold the sheet onto them with a stack of books or another heavy item. You can also pinch sheets between heavy furniture and the wall. Just tuck the sheet behind something heavy, like your headboard, and then push it all the way to the wall. Use rubber bands or string to secure blankets and sheets to the tops of chairs that have protrusions or spindles, such as kitchen chairs. 3-6. Supply your fort. Bring some snacks and drinks into the fort. If you’ve used furniture like chairs or dressers, you can stash your supplies under the chairs or in the drawers. You may also want a flashlight, a laptop, and some books and games. A friend is always nice, too. 4. Making Other Types of Forts 4-1. Make a bunk-bed fort. If you have a bunk-bed, it’s super easy to build an instant fort in your room. Get a few sheets or blankets and tuck them under the mattress on the top bunk. Drape the sheets down to the floor on all sides. 4-2. Make a tunnel fort. This type of fort is very easy to build, but it is a lot smaller than some other types of forts. Get two large pieces of furniture, such as a couch and a table, and put them side by side about 2-3 feet apart. Stretch a sheet or blanket across the gap between the furniture to create the roof. Secure the roof by placing something heavy on top of it on each side to weigh it down. Heavy books work very well for this. Put some pillows or cushions on the floor of the tunnel to make a cozy floor. Now you have a fort! 4-3. Make a beach umbrella fort. You can also use a small umbrella, but it won’t have as much room in the fort. If you have several umbrellas, place them in a circular formation. Then, stretch sheets over the top. Voila, instant fort! Tips Use furniture with flat, hard surfaces to build your fort when you can. This will allow you to stack heavy things like books on top of it to hold the sheet roof in place. Get a friend to help you if you can. Forts are much easier to build with more than just one person. You can also make a fort using big boxes. Warnings Never bring flammable things like candles into your fort. If you are going to sleep there make sure you can stretch, roll, toss and turn without the fort collapsing! Don't bring any type of liquids unless you have a lid and it is on properly.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:36", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Pillow Fort\\n1-1. Gather as many pillows and cushions as possible.\\nYou can start with your bedroom pillows. Ask your parents if you can use extra pillows from the linen closet, sofa cushions, and the like.\\n1-2. Sort your pillows into groups.\\nSoft, fluffy pillows are good for creating a luxurious floor for your fort, but aren’t as good for walls. Couch cushions and other rigid or stiff pillows work best for walls.\\nMemory foam pillows are also a good choice for walls because they are heavy and hold their shape.\\n1-3. Select the furniture you will use for your fort.\\nIf you’re building the fort in your bedroom, you can obviously use your bed. Chairs, desks, and dressers are also good options. You can ask your parents if you can bring in furniture from other rooms, too.\\n1-4. Gather weighty items to help support your pillows.\\nHeavy books are good to use as support, but you can also use shoes, large toys, and even canned goods (but ask your parents about that first). You’ll use these items to help prop up your pillow walls.\\n1-5. Build the walls.\\nThere are two basic wall construction techniques, which you can choose from depending on what types of pillows you have. Start building at your bed and use it as your primary support structure.\\nThe “sandbag” technique is best for soft, floppy pillows. Start the fort at your bed and place a row of pillows in a line outward until you have a wall as long as you want your fort. Then place another row of pillows on top of that one, and build the wall as high as you want it. Don’t go too high, though, or the fort may collapse.\\nThe “vertical support” technique is best for firmer, rigid cushions like sofa cushions. Start the fort at your bed and build the wall outward by placing the cushions on their narrow sides in a line. Support the cushions on both sides with heavy items like books to keep them from falling over.\\nFor extra sturdy walls, wrap a blanket around your walls to create a solid panel. Secure the blanket with clothespins or binder clips, then use heavy items to support the wall panels.\\n1-6. Construct your roof.\\nUse sheets for the roof if you have them, because they are lighter and less likely to make your fort collapse under their weight. Stretch the sheets across the tops of your walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to connect sheets together if you need to.\\nIf you have a bunk-bed, you can create a vaulted ceiling! Tuck a sheet under the mattress on the top bunk, then pull it down toward the fort walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheet to the edges of the cushions.\\nUse flat sheets for the roof if you can find them. Fitted sheets don’t work as well because of their elastic corners.\\n1-7. Secure the roof by using heavy objects like books to pin the edges of the sheet to the floor.\\nAlternatively, you can tuck the edges of the sheets under furniture, such as the legs of your desk or your bed.\\n1-8. Supply your fort.\\nAll forts need rations, so get some good snacks and drinks to stash away in your fort. If you’re planning to use the fort at night, you may also want a flash light or even some twinkle lights. And of course, you’ll want some books and games for entertainment.\\nNever use candles or other open flames inside a bedroom fort! Bedding is highly flammable.\\n2. Making a Teepee Fort\\n2-1. Gather some long sticks or poles.\\nIf you have a backyard, you may be able to get some long sticks from there. You’ll need between 5-7 fairly straight, sturdy sticks that are at least 5 feet long. If you don’t have a backyard to gather sticks from, you can ask your parents if they will purchase some long dowel rods (or even curtain rods or broomsticks) from the hardware store for you.\\n2-2. Gather your other materials.\\nYou’ll need twine, rope, or thick rubber bands to tie the poles together. You’ll also need several sheets or blankets to form the walls of your teepee and some clothespins or binder clips.\\n2-3. Lay out three sticks in a tripod formation.\\nLay two sticks on the ground to form an inverted “V” shape. Lay another stick in the middle of the “V” so that it looks almost like an upside-down “W”.\\n2-4. Tie the sticks together.\\nThe most secure way to do this is to use a clove hitch knot around the tops of the sticks. If you don’t know how to tie one, make sure to wrap the rope twine under the poles as well as around them. Leave a “tail” of rope.\\nIf you’re using rubber bands, use several around the tops of the sticks to secure them.\\n2-5. Get a friend to help you raise the teepee.\\nIt’s much harder to raise the teepee on your own, so ask a friend or your parents for help. It should look like a camera tripod once it’s raised. Arrange the legs so that it’s fairly stable.\\nAfter the tripod is raised, place the other sticks around the center tripod. Use the rope tail to tie them to the frame, or secure them with rubber bands.\\n2-6. Drape the sheets over the teepee frame.\\nUse clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheets to the sticks or poles. You can also use string or twine to tie the sheets to the frame.\\nIf you get permission from your parents to do so, punching holes in the sheets with a hole-punch makes it much easier to tie the sheets to the teepee frame. Only use old, worn-out sheets for this, and definitely ask your parents first.\\n2-7. Place some pillows on the floor inside the teepee.\\nThis will make a comfortable base for you to hang out in.\\n2-8. Bring in some supplies.\\nYou’ll probably want some snacks and drinks to enjoy in your fort. Books, games, and maybe a laptop will give you fun things to do.\\nIf you want to decorate the inside of your teepee, you can string twinkle lights around the sticks and plug them in.\\n3. Making a Blanket and Furniture Fort\\n3-1. Gather your construction materials.\\nFor this type of fort, you’ll want as many pillows, blankets, and sheets as you can find. You’ll also need several items of furniture that you can move around into a circle.\\nGet an adult to help you with very heavy furniture such as dressers. Don’t try to move your bed, just build around it.\\n3-2. Move your furniture into a circle around your bed.\\nThe bed is probably too big and heavy to move, so just pull the other furniture into a ring using the bed as your starting place.\\nChairs, desks, and tables work well, as do nightstands and dressers.\\n3-3. Fill up any gaps in the furniture with pillows.\\nIf you want some light to come in, you can leave places such as under chairs open. For a completely secure fort, fill in all the holes.\\n3-4. Place the flooring.\\nYou’ll want the floor of your fort to be soft and cozy, so lay down some soft pillows. You can also use fluffy bath towels or down comforters, if you have them. If you use pillows, spread a blanket across all of them to create a solid floor.\\n3-5. Construct the roof.\\nUse sheets to build your roof because they don’t weigh as much as blankets. Secure your roof sheets to the furniture using heavy objects such as books, as well as fasteners like clothespins and binder clips.\\nYou can tuck the roof sheets into dresser drawers and secure them to the drawers with clothespins or binder clips. This will give you a higher, angled roof.\\nTuck some roof sheets under your mattress for a secure hold.\\nIf you used furniture with hard, flat surfaces such as desk tops and chair bottoms, you can hold the sheet onto them with a stack of books or another heavy item.\\nYou can also pinch sheets between heavy furniture and the wall. Just tuck the sheet behind something heavy, like your headboard, and then push it all the way to the wall.\\nUse rubber bands or string to secure blankets and sheets to the tops of chairs that have protrusions or spindles, such as kitchen chairs.\\n3-6. Supply your fort.\\nBring some snacks and drinks into the fort. If you’ve used furniture like chairs or dressers, you can stash your supplies under the chairs or in the drawers. You may also want a flashlight, a laptop, and some books and games. A friend is always nice, too.\\n4. Making Other Types of Forts\\n4-1. Make a bunk-bed fort.\\nIf you have a bunk-bed, it’s super easy to build an instant fort in your room. Get a few sheets or blankets and tuck them under the mattress on the top bunk. Drape the sheets down to the floor on all sides.\\n4-2. Make a tunnel fort.\\nThis type of fort is very easy to build, but it is a lot smaller than some other types of forts.\\nGet two large pieces of furniture, such as a couch and a table, and put them side by side about 2-3 feet apart.\\nStretch a sheet or blanket across the gap between the furniture to create the roof.\\nSecure the roof by placing something heavy on top of it on each side to weigh it down. Heavy books work very well for this.\\nPut some pillows or cushions on the floor of the tunnel to make a cozy floor. Now you have a fort!\\n4-3. Make a beach umbrella fort.\\nYou can also use a small umbrella, but it won’t have as much room in the fort. If you have several umbrellas, place them in a circular formation. Then, stretch sheets over the top. Voila, instant fort!\\nTips\\nUse furniture with flat, hard surfaces to build your fort when you can. This will allow you to stack heavy things like books on top of it to hold the sheet roof in place.\\nGet a friend to help you if you can. Forts are much easier to build with more than just one person.\\nYou can also make a fort using big boxes.\\nWarnings\\nNever bring flammable things like candles into your fort.\\nIf you are going to sleep there make sure you can stretch, roll, toss and turn without the fort collapsing!\\nDon't bring any type of liquids unless you have a lid and it is on properly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building forts from pillows, blankets, and furniture is a time-honored tradition that provides great hideouts! You can easily build a fun-filled fort in your bedroom using just a few things you already have around the house.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Pillow Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather as many pillows and cushions as possible.\", \"描述\": \"You can start with your bedroom pillows. Ask your parents if you can use extra pillows from the linen closet, sofa cushions, and the like.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sort your pillows into groups.\", \"描述\": \"Soft, fluffy pillows are good for creating a luxurious floor for your fort, but aren’t as good for walls. Couch cushions and other rigid or stiff pillows work best for walls.\\nMemory foam pillows are also a good choice for walls because they are heavy and hold their shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select the furniture you will use for your fort.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re building the fort in your bedroom, you can obviously use your bed. Chairs, desks, and dressers are also good options. You can ask your parents if you can bring in furniture from other rooms, too.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Gather weighty items to help support your pillows.\", \"描述\": \"Heavy books are good to use as support, but you can also use shoes, large toys, and even canned goods (but ask your parents about that first). You’ll use these items to help prop up your pillow walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the walls.\", \"描述\": \"There are two basic wall construction techniques, which you can choose from depending on what types of pillows you have. Start building at your bed and use it as your primary support structure.\\nThe “sandbag” technique is best for soft, floppy pillows. Start the fort at your bed and place a row of pillows in a line outward until you have a wall as long as you want your fort. Then place another row of pillows on top of that one, and build the wall as high as you want it. Don’t go too high, though, or the fort may collapse.\\nThe “vertical support” technique is best for firmer, rigid cushions like sofa cushions. Start the fort at your bed and build the wall outward by placing the cushions on their narrow sides in a line. Support the cushions on both sides with heavy items like books to keep them from falling over.\\nFor extra sturdy walls, wrap a blanket around your walls to create a solid panel. Secure the blanket with clothespins or binder clips, then use heavy items to support the wall panels.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Construct your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use sheets for the roof if you have them, because they are lighter and less likely to make your fort collapse under their weight. Stretch the sheets across the tops of your walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to connect sheets together if you need to.\\nIf you have a bunk-bed, you can create a vaulted ceiling! Tuck a sheet under the mattress on the top bunk, then pull it down toward the fort walls. Use clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheet to the edges of the cushions.\\nUse flat sheets for the roof if you can find them. Fitted sheets don’t work as well because of their elastic corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Secure the roof by using heavy objects like books to pin the edges of the sheet to the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Alternatively, you can tuck the edges of the sheets under furniture, such as the legs of your desk or your bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Supply your fort.\", \"描述\": \"All forts need rations, so get some good snacks and drinks to stash away in your fort. If you’re planning to use the fort at night, you may also want a flash light or even some twinkle lights. And of course, you’ll want some books and games for entertainment.\\nNever use candles or other open flames inside a bedroom fort! Bedding is highly flammable.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making a Teepee Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather some long sticks or poles.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a backyard, you may be able to get some long sticks from there. You’ll need between 5-7 fairly straight, sturdy sticks that are at least 5 feet long. If you don’t have a backyard to gather sticks from, you can ask your parents if they will purchase some long dowel rods (or even curtain rods or broomsticks) from the hardware store for you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather your other materials.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need twine, rope, or thick rubber bands to tie the poles together. You’ll also need several sheets or blankets to form the walls of your teepee and some clothespins or binder clips.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out three sticks in a tripod formation.\", \"描述\": \"Lay two sticks on the ground to form an inverted “V” shape. Lay another stick in the middle of the “V” so that it looks almost like an upside-down “W”.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie the sticks together.\", \"描述\": \"The most secure way to do this is to use a clove hitch knot around the tops of the sticks. If you don’t know how to tie one, make sure to wrap the rope twine under the poles as well as around them. Leave a “tail” of rope.\\nIf you’re using rubber bands, use several around the tops of the sticks to secure them.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get a friend to help you raise the teepee.\", \"描述\": \"It’s much harder to raise the teepee on your own, so ask a friend or your parents for help. It should look like a camera tripod once it’s raised. Arrange the legs so that it’s fairly stable.\\nAfter the tripod is raised, place the other sticks around the center tripod. Use the rope tail to tie them to the frame, or secure them with rubber bands.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drape the sheets over the teepee frame.\", \"描述\": \"Use clothespins or binder clips to secure the sheets to the sticks or poles. You can also use string or twine to tie the sheets to the frame.\\nIf you get permission from your parents to do so, punching holes in the sheets with a hole-punch makes it much easier to tie the sheets to the teepee frame. Only use old, worn-out sheets for this, and definitely ask your parents first.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place some pillows on the floor inside the teepee.\", \"描述\": \"This will make a comfortable base for you to hang out in.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Bring in some supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll probably want some snacks and drinks to enjoy in your fort. Books, games, and maybe a laptop will give you fun things to do.\\nIf you want to decorate the inside of your teepee, you can string twinkle lights around the sticks and plug them in.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Making a Blanket and Furniture Fort\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your construction materials.\", \"描述\": \"For this type of fort, you’ll want as many pillows, blankets, and sheets as you can find. You’ll also need several items of furniture that you can move around into a circle.\\nGet an adult to help you with very heavy furniture such as dressers. Don’t try to move your bed, just build around it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Move your furniture into a circle around your bed.\", \"描述\": \"The bed is probably too big and heavy to move, so just pull the other furniture into a ring using the bed as your starting place.\\nChairs, desks, and tables work well, as do nightstands and dressers.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill up any gaps in the furniture with pillows.\", \"描述\": \"If you want some light to come in, you can leave places such as under chairs open. For a completely secure fort, fill in all the holes.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the flooring.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want the floor of your fort to be soft and cozy, so lay down some soft pillows. You can also use fluffy bath towels or down comforters, if you have them. If you use pillows, spread a blanket across all of them to create a solid floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use sheets to build your roof because they don’t weigh as much as blankets. Secure your roof sheets to the furniture using heavy objects such as books, as well as fasteners like clothespins and binder clips.\\nYou can tuck the roof sheets into dresser drawers and secure them to the drawers with clothespins or binder clips. This will give you a higher, angled roof.\\nTuck some roof sheets under your mattress for a secure hold.\\nIf you used furniture with hard, flat surfaces such as desk tops and chair bottoms, you can hold the sheet onto them with a stack of books or another heavy item.\\nYou can also pinch sheets between heavy furniture and the wall. Just tuck the sheet behind something heavy, like your headboard, and then push it all the way to the wall.\\nUse rubber bands or string to secure blankets and sheets to the tops of chairs that have protrusions or spindles, such as kitchen chairs.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Supply your fort.\", \"描述\": \"Bring some snacks and drinks into the fort. If you’ve used furniture like chairs or dressers, you can stash your supplies under the chairs or in the drawers. You may also want a flashlight, a laptop, and some books and games. A friend is always nice, too.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Making Other Types of Forts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a bunk-bed fort.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a bunk-bed, it’s super easy to build an instant fort in your room. Get a few sheets or blankets and tuck them under the mattress on the top bunk. Drape the sheets down to the floor on all sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a tunnel fort.\", \"描述\": \"This type of fort is very easy to build, but it is a lot smaller than some other types of forts.\\nGet two large pieces of furniture, such as a couch and a table, and put them side by side about 2-3 feet apart.\\nStretch a sheet or blanket across the gap between the furniture to create the roof.\\nSecure the roof by placing something heavy on top of it on each side to weigh it down. Heavy books work very well for this.\\nPut some pillows or cushions on the floor of the tunnel to make a cozy floor. Now you have a fort!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a beach umbrella fort.\", \"描述\": \"You can also use a small umbrella, but it won’t have as much room in the fort. If you have several umbrellas, place them in a circular formation. Then, stretch sheets over the top. Voila, instant fort!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use furniture with flat, hard surfaces to build your fort when you can. This will allow you to stack heavy things like books on top of it to hold the sheet roof in place.\\n\", \"Get a friend to help you if you can. Forts are much easier to build with more than just one person.\\n\", \"You can also make a fort using big boxes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never bring flammable things like candles into your fort.\\n\", \"If you are going to sleep there make sure you can stretch, roll, toss and turn without the fort collapsing!\\n\", \"Don't bring any type of liquids unless you have a lid and it is on properly.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,349
How to Build a Foxhole
1. Steps 1-1. Select an appropriate site. 1-2. Dig a rectangular hole 6.5' by 3'. The hole should be deep such that if you stand in the hole, the walls come up to your armpits. 1-3. Dig sumps four or five inches wide stretching the entire width of the hole on the left and right sides. Make these at least two feet deep. These are there so you can dispose of any grenades that are thrown into your foxhole. 1-4. About a foot and a half in front of the hole, place a row of sandbags two bags high and 6.5' long. Similarly, place rows of sandbags to the left and right sides of the hole. These support the roof and provide protection from shrapnel and bullets. 1-5. In the rear, place a centered row of sandbags two sandbags high 1.5' away from the hole but only 3.25' long. 1-6. Place 4"-6" logs across the top stretching from the back wall of sandbags to the front, cover with a tarpaulin or a poncho for waterproofing, then cover with a small layer of soil. This provides for shelter from the elements and fragmentation. 1-7. Camouflage the entire thing and be sure to hide or disguise the displaced soil. Tips 4"-6" diameter logs can be used in the place of sandbags if your wife won't let you borrow her pillowcases. Don't use explosives. They can be dangerous and sometimes even illegal. Don't make the mistake I did. Roots are awful to dig through. Bring a hatchet, pruning shears, or better still, choose a site that isn't near any trees.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Select an appropriate site.\\n\\n1-2. Dig a rectangular hole 6.5' by 3'.\\nThe hole should be deep such that if you stand in the hole, the walls come up to your armpits.\\n1-3. Dig sumps four or five inches wide stretching the entire width of the hole on the left and right sides.\\nMake these at least two feet deep. These are there so you can dispose of any grenades that are thrown into your foxhole.\\n1-4. About a foot and a half in front of the hole, place a row of sandbags two bags high and 6.5' long.\\nSimilarly, place rows of sandbags to the left and right sides of the hole. These support the roof and provide protection from shrapnel and bullets.\\n1-5. In the rear, place a centered row of sandbags two sandbags high 1.5' away from the hole but only 3.25' long.\\n\\n1-6. Place 4\\\"-6\\\" logs across the top stretching from the back wall of sandbags to the front, cover with a tarpaulin or a poncho for waterproofing, then cover with a small layer of soil.\\nThis provides for shelter from the elements and fragmentation.\\n1-7. Camouflage the entire thing and be sure to hide or disguise the displaced soil.\\n\\nTips\\n4\\\"-6\\\" diameter logs can be used in the place of sandbags if your wife won't let you borrow her pillowcases.\\nDon't use explosives. They can be dangerous and sometimes even illegal. Don't make the mistake I did.\\nRoots are awful to dig through. Bring a hatchet, pruning shears, or better still, choose a site that isn't near any trees.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This article explains how to build a standard US Army defensive fighting position.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select an appropriate site.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Dig a rectangular hole 6.5' by 3'.\", \"描述\": \"The hole should be deep such that if you stand in the hole, the walls come up to your armpits.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Dig sumps four or five inches wide stretching the entire width of the hole on the left and right sides.\", \"描述\": \"Make these at least two feet deep. These are there so you can dispose of any grenades that are thrown into your foxhole.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"About a foot and a half in front of the hole, place a row of sandbags two bags high and 6.5' long.\", \"描述\": \"Similarly, place rows of sandbags to the left and right sides of the hole. These support the roof and provide protection from shrapnel and bullets.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"In the rear, place a centered row of sandbags two sandbags high 1.5' away from the hole but only 3.25' long.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place 4\\\"-6\\\" logs across the top stretching from the back wall of sandbags to the front, cover with a tarpaulin or a poncho for waterproofing, then cover with a small layer of soil.\", \"描述\": \"This provides for shelter from the elements and fragmentation.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Camouflage the entire thing and be sure to hide or disguise the displaced soil.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"4\\\"-6\\\" diameter logs can be used in the place of sandbags if your wife won't let you borrow her pillowcases.\\n\", \"Don't use explosives. They can be dangerous and sometimes even illegal. Don't make the mistake I did.\\n\", \"Roots are awful to dig through. Bring a hatchet, pruning shears, or better still, choose a site that isn't near any trees.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,350
How to Install a French Drain System in Your Yard
1. Planning and Preparation 1-1. Scout for any buried pipes or electrical lines. Before building a French drain in a specific area, locate all underground cables, pipes or other installations that could make digging dangerous in that particular spot. Check with your municipal or public agencies to make sure you have a free area to construct your French drain. If you're in the U.S., call the 811 "Call before you dig" hotline, which will connect you to your local call center. An agent will come to your site within a few days to flag any underground hazards like municipal pipes or cables. Also be sure to plan your drainage route so it runs at least 1 m (3.3 ft) from any walls or fencing, and try to avoid any posts, shrubs or tree roots. 1-2. Call your municipality to check for zoning or runoff regulations. Some municipalities have rules on whether you can build or even dig on your own property, and may require that you obtain a permit before you build any sort of drainage. Speaking with city and/or county officials and working together is in your best interest for this project—better to know you’re in the clear now than get in legal trouble later. Also establish whether or not your French drain would cause hardship for neighbors in terms of groundwater runoff. Running excess water onto someone else's land could lead to a potential lawsuit. Ideally the French drain runs off in a relatively unused section of land, away from any buildings, into sandy soil which allows water to pass through easily. 1-3. Mark the dig site on a downhill slope. French drains are essentially buried pipes that use gravity to carry water in the soil away from the problem area. Mark out the path of your proposed drain with landscaping paint, starting it at the problem area, routing it downhill, and ending it away from structures and heavily-trafficked zones. If no natural downward slope exists, reate a slope by digging progressively deeper as you work your way along the trench. Sink a couple of stakes on far ends of the line and connect them with a string. Use a leveling tool to measure the grade of the string and slope—ideally, it’ll have a downhill grade of at least 1%, or a drop of 0.125 in (0.32 cm) per 1 ft (0.30 m). Never plan your French drain to drain into a neighboring property; it’s almost always illegal, and can pose numerous zoning issues and dangers, regardless. Optionally, hire a surveyor or other professional to help pin down the right dimensions and placement for your drain. 2. Building the Drain 2-1. Dig a trench about 10–12 in (25–30 cm) wide and 1.5 ft (0.46 m) deep. Use a spade to dig a trench wide enough to accommodate the drain pipe, plus a bit of room on either side for gravel. Follow your marked route, taking care to avoid any flagged municipal pipes or cables. Enlist the help of a family member, friend, or neighbor if possible. Periodically check the depth of the trench as you dig to ensure it consistently slopes downwards. The ditch depth and grade doesn't have to be perfect, but ensure that there are no "bellies" in your drainage, or areas in which water can pool and be held. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/6e\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/6e\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} You might also rent a trencher from a hardware store, which is a specialized tool for digging trenches, or use a backhoe, but we recommend using a simple spade, since it’s the most precise and controllable tool. 2-2. Line the trench with water-permeable landscape fabric. Roll out your landscape fabric over the trench, pressing it down to fill the contours, then temporarily pin it in place with nails or landscape fabric pins. Ensure the fabric extends about 1 ft (0.30 m) out of either side of the trench. 2-3. Add 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) of gravel to the bottom of the trench. Shovel the gravel on top of the landscaping fabric. The gravel acts as a foundation for the drainage pipe, keeping it securely in place, and also blocking soil from clogging the pipe. 2-4. Lay drainage pipe with the perforations facing down, and cover it with gravel. Lay the drainage pipe atop the gravel along the entire length of the trench—ensuring that the perforations face down improves drainage. Then, cover the pipe with gravel, leaving about 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) of room between the top of the gravel and the lip of the trench. Place a cap on the upper end of the pipe to prevent any soil or gravel from entering the pipe and clogging it downstream. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/15\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/15\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Alternatively, begin the length of pipe with a downspout catch to more effectively drain water from a targeted area. 2-5. Fold the landscaping fabric over the gravel and fill the trench with soil. Cover the gravel with the excess landscaping fabric. Fill in the rest of the trench with the displaced soil. At this point, finish the trench in whatever way you like: lay sod on top, reseed it with grass, or even cover it with a layer of large, decorative stones. The bottom end of the pipe will remain below ground, but alternatively, install a drain emitter for easy, above-ground access. Simply attach the emitter to the end of the pipe, and bury it so that its top surface is level with the ground. 3. Maintenance and Additions 3-1. Reinstall the French yard drain every 5-7 years. Your landscaping shifts over time, and the pipe, gravel, and landscaping fabric will deteriorate over the years. In order to keep the drain functioning properly, reinstall it every so often, or whenever it appears to stop working, like when water begins to pool in areas above the pipe, where it ought to be draining. 3-2. Keep heavy machinery and livestock off the French drain. Heavy machinery like cars, tractors, or riding lawn mowers can compress the soil and the drain pipe, damaging the French drain and causing clogs or other faults. Leave indicators of the drain’s location for reference, like landscaping flags or lawn decor, to remind you and others of the drain’s location. 3-3. Create a T-branch at the end of the drain for better water dispersal. A T-branch is simply another section of pipe that connects to the main pipe at a perpendicular angle. Dig an additional perpendicular trench at the bottom of the initial trench, and use a drain pipe connector to join the pipes. With this setup, the water forks off into the T-branch and is dispersed over a wider area, preventing pooling at the bottom of the French drain. Tips Spray the installed drain area with water to get it to settle or compact a bit. Use a good pair of leather work gloves while digging. Warnings Never use a tamping tool or powered compacting equipment, as it will crush the pipe, causing failure.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning and Preparation\\n1-1. Scout for any buried pipes or electrical lines.\\nBefore building a French drain in a specific area, locate all underground cables, pipes or other installations that could make digging dangerous in that particular spot. Check with your municipal or public agencies to make sure you have a free area to construct your French drain.\\nIf you're in the U.S., call the 811 \\\"Call before you dig\\\" hotline, which will connect you to your local call center. An agent will come to your site within a few days to flag any underground hazards like municipal pipes or cables.\\nAlso be sure to plan your drainage route so it runs at least 1 m (3.3 ft) from any walls or fencing, and try to avoid any posts, shrubs or tree roots.\\n1-2. Call your municipality to check for zoning or runoff regulations.\\nSome municipalities have rules on whether you can build or even dig on your own property, and may require that you obtain a permit before you build any sort of drainage. Speaking with city and/or county officials and working together is in your best interest for this project—better to know you’re in the clear now than get in legal trouble later.\\nAlso establish whether or not your French drain would cause hardship for neighbors in terms of groundwater runoff. Running excess water onto someone else's land could lead to a potential lawsuit.\\nIdeally the French drain runs off in a relatively unused section of land, away from any buildings, into sandy soil which allows water to pass through easily.\\n1-3. Mark the dig site on a downhill slope.\\nFrench drains are essentially buried pipes that use gravity to carry water in the soil away from the problem area. Mark out the path of your proposed drain with landscaping paint, starting it at the problem area, routing it downhill, and ending it away from structures and heavily-trafficked zones. If no natural downward slope exists, reate a slope by digging progressively deeper as you work your way along the trench. \\nSink a couple of stakes on far ends of the line and connect them with a string. Use a leveling tool to measure the grade of the string and slope—ideally, it’ll have a downhill grade of at least 1%, or a drop of 0.125 in (0.32 cm) per 1 ft (0.30 m).\\nNever plan your French drain to drain into a neighboring property; it’s almost always illegal, and can pose numerous zoning issues and dangers, regardless.\\nOptionally, hire a surveyor or other professional to help pin down the right dimensions and placement for your drain.\\n2. Building the Drain\\n2-1. Dig a trench about 10–12 in (25–30 cm) wide and 1.5 ft (0.46 m) deep.\\nUse a spade to dig a trench wide enough to accommodate the drain pipe, plus a bit of room on either side for gravel. Follow your marked route, taking care to avoid any flagged municipal pipes or cables. Enlist the help of a family member, friend, or neighbor if possible.\\nPeriodically check the depth of the trench as you dig to ensure it consistently slopes downwards. The ditch depth and grade doesn't have to be perfect, but ensure that there are no \\\"bellies\\\" in your drainage, or areas in which water can pool and be held.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6e\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6e\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou might also rent a trencher from a hardware store, which is a specialized tool for digging trenches, or use a backhoe, but we recommend using a simple spade, since it’s the most precise and controllable tool.\\n2-2. Line the trench with water-permeable landscape fabric.\\nRoll out your landscape fabric over the trench, pressing it down to fill the contours, then temporarily pin it in place with nails or landscape fabric pins. Ensure the fabric extends about 1 ft (0.30 m) out of either side of the trench.\\n2-3. Add 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) of gravel to the bottom of the trench.\\nShovel the gravel on top of the landscaping fabric. The gravel acts as a foundation for the drainage pipe, keeping it securely in place, and also blocking soil from clogging the pipe.\\n2-4. Lay drainage pipe with the perforations facing down, and cover it with gravel.\\nLay the drainage pipe atop the gravel along the entire length of the trench—ensuring that the perforations face down improves drainage. Then, cover the pipe with gravel, leaving about 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) of room between the top of the gravel and the lip of the trench.\\nPlace a cap on the upper end of the pipe to prevent any soil or gravel from entering the pipe and clogging it downstream.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/15\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/15\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAlternatively, begin the length of pipe with a downspout catch to more effectively drain water from a targeted area.\\n2-5. Fold the landscaping fabric over the gravel and fill the trench with soil.\\nCover the gravel with the excess landscaping fabric. Fill in the rest of the trench with the displaced soil. At this point, finish the trench in whatever way you like: lay sod on top, reseed it with grass, or even cover it with a layer of large, decorative stones.\\nThe bottom end of the pipe will remain below ground, but alternatively, install a drain emitter for easy, above-ground access. Simply attach the emitter to the end of the pipe, and bury it so that its top surface is level with the ground.\\n3. Maintenance and Additions\\n3-1. Reinstall the French yard drain every 5-7 years.\\nYour landscaping shifts over time, and the pipe, gravel, and landscaping fabric will deteriorate over the years. In order to keep the drain functioning properly, reinstall it every so often, or whenever it appears to stop working, like when water begins to pool in areas above the pipe, where it ought to be draining.\\n3-2. Keep heavy machinery and livestock off the French drain.\\nHeavy machinery like cars, tractors, or riding lawn mowers can compress the soil and the drain pipe, damaging the French drain and causing clogs or other faults. Leave indicators of the drain’s location for reference, like landscaping flags or lawn decor, to remind you and others of the drain’s location.\\n3-3. Create a T-branch at the end of the drain for better water dispersal.\\nA T-branch is simply another section of pipe that connects to the main pipe at a perpendicular angle. Dig an additional perpendicular trench at the bottom of the initial trench, and use a drain pipe connector to join the pipes.\\nWith this setup, the water forks off into the T-branch and is dispersed over a wider area, preventing pooling at the bottom of the French drain.\\nTips\\nSpray the installed drain area with water to get it to settle or compact a bit.\\nUse a good pair of leather work gloves while digging.\\nWarnings\\nNever use a tamping tool or powered compacting equipment, as it will crush the pipe, causing failure.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Are you finding water pooling on your lawn? Or maybe there’s a bit too much moisture for comfort around your home’s foundation. A French drain system could be the solution. It’s a simple yet versatile bit of landscaping that can be used to drain standing water from problem areas in your yard or around your home. It’s essentially a buried pipe that leads water down a slope. The construction process is fairly simple; it just requires a little preparation and planning, the right tools and materials, and a little DIY know-how. We’ll show you how to plan, dig, install, and maintain a French drain to keep your property free of any troublesome moisture.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning and Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Scout for any buried pipes or electrical lines.\", \"描述\": \"Before building a French drain in a specific area, locate all underground cables, pipes or other installations that could make digging dangerous in that particular spot. Check with your municipal or public agencies to make sure you have a free area to construct your French drain.\\nIf you're in the U.S., call the 811 \\\"Call before you dig\\\" hotline, which will connect you to your local call center. An agent will come to your site within a few days to flag any underground hazards like municipal pipes or cables.\\nAlso be sure to plan your drainage route so it runs at least 1 m (3.3 ft) from any walls or fencing, and try to avoid any posts, shrubs or tree roots.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Call your municipality to check for zoning or runoff regulations.\", \"描述\": \"Some municipalities have rules on whether you can build or even dig on your own property, and may require that you obtain a permit before you build any sort of drainage. Speaking with city and/or county officials and working together is in your best interest for this project—better to know you’re in the clear now than get in legal trouble later.\\nAlso establish whether or not your French drain would cause hardship for neighbors in terms of groundwater runoff. Running excess water onto someone else's land could lead to a potential lawsuit.\\nIdeally the French drain runs off in a relatively unused section of land, away from any buildings, into sandy soil which allows water to pass through easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the dig site on a downhill slope.\", \"描述\": \"French drains are essentially buried pipes that use gravity to carry water in the soil away from the problem area. Mark out the path of your proposed drain with landscaping paint, starting it at the problem area, routing it downhill, and ending it away from structures and heavily-trafficked zones. If no natural downward slope exists, reate a slope by digging progressively deeper as you work your way along the trench. \\nSink a couple of stakes on far ends of the line and connect them with a string. Use a leveling tool to measure the grade of the string and slope—ideally, it’ll have a downhill grade of at least 1%, or a drop of 0.125 in (0.32 cm) per 1 ft (0.30 m).\\nNever plan your French drain to drain into a neighboring property; it’s almost always illegal, and can pose numerous zoning issues and dangers, regardless.\\nOptionally, hire a surveyor or other professional to help pin down the right dimensions and placement for your drain.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Drain\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig a trench about 10–12 in (25–30 cm) wide and 1.5 ft (0.46 m) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Use a spade to dig a trench wide enough to accommodate the drain pipe, plus a bit of room on either side for gravel. Follow your marked route, taking care to avoid any flagged municipal pipes or cables. Enlist the help of a family member, friend, or neighbor if possible.\\nPeriodically check the depth of the trench as you dig to ensure it consistently slopes downwards. The ditch depth and grade doesn't have to be perfect, but ensure that there are no \\\"bellies\\\" in your drainage, or areas in which water can pool and be held.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6e\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6e\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-4Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou might also rent a trencher from a hardware store, which is a specialized tool for digging trenches, or use a backhoe, but we recommend using a simple spade, since it’s the most precise and controllable tool.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line the trench with water-permeable landscape fabric.\", \"描述\": \"Roll out your landscape fabric over the trench, pressing it down to fill the contours, then temporarily pin it in place with nails or landscape fabric pins. Ensure the fabric extends about 1 ft (0.30 m) out of either side of the trench.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add 2 or 3 inches (5.1 or 7.6 cm) of gravel to the bottom of the trench.\", \"描述\": \"Shovel the gravel on top of the landscaping fabric. The gravel acts as a foundation for the drainage pipe, keeping it securely in place, and also blocking soil from clogging the pipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay drainage pipe with the perforations facing down, and cover it with gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the drainage pipe atop the gravel along the entire length of the trench—ensuring that the perforations face down improves drainage. Then, cover the pipe with gravel, leaving about 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) of room between the top of the gravel and the lip of the trench.\\nPlace a cap on the upper end of the pipe to prevent any soil or gravel from entering the pipe and clogging it downstream.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/15\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/15\\\\/Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-728px-Build-a-French-Drain-Step-7Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>\\\\u00a9 2023 wikiHow, Inc. All rights reserved. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. This image is <b>not<\\\\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAlternatively, begin the length of pipe with a downspout catch to more effectively drain water from a targeted area.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fold the landscaping fabric over the gravel and fill the trench with soil.\", \"描述\": \"Cover the gravel with the excess landscaping fabric. Fill in the rest of the trench with the displaced soil. At this point, finish the trench in whatever way you like: lay sod on top, reseed it with grass, or even cover it with a layer of large, decorative stones.\\nThe bottom end of the pipe will remain below ground, but alternatively, install a drain emitter for easy, above-ground access. Simply attach the emitter to the end of the pipe, and bury it so that its top surface is level with the ground.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintenance and Additions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Reinstall the French yard drain every 5-7 years.\", \"描述\": \"Your landscaping shifts over time, and the pipe, gravel, and landscaping fabric will deteriorate over the years. In order to keep the drain functioning properly, reinstall it every so often, or whenever it appears to stop working, like when water begins to pool in areas above the pipe, where it ought to be draining.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep heavy machinery and livestock off the French drain.\", \"描述\": \"Heavy machinery like cars, tractors, or riding lawn mowers can compress the soil and the drain pipe, damaging the French drain and causing clogs or other faults. Leave indicators of the drain’s location for reference, like landscaping flags or lawn decor, to remind you and others of the drain’s location.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a T-branch at the end of the drain for better water dispersal.\", \"描述\": \"A T-branch is simply another section of pipe that connects to the main pipe at a perpendicular angle. Dig an additional perpendicular trench at the bottom of the initial trench, and use a drain pipe connector to join the pipes.\\nWith this setup, the water forks off into the T-branch and is dispersed over a wider area, preventing pooling at the bottom of the French drain.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Spray the installed drain area with water to get it to settle or compact a bit.\\n\", \"Use a good pair of leather work gloves while digging.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never use a tamping tool or powered compacting equipment, as it will crush the pipe, causing failure.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,351
How to Build a Frog Pond
1. Selecting a Location 1-1. Pick a spot with both sunlight and shade. Plan on building the pond in a location that is about 70% covered by shade. A good place to build a pond is partially underneath the shade of a tree. Sunlight keeps the pond warm while shade prevents the frogs and their water from drying out. Build underneath a deciduous plant like an oak and maple trees. The tree will lose its leaves in the fall so the pond receives full sunlight in the winter, preventing it from freezing. 1-2. Choose flat land clear of rocks and grass. Frog ponds are relatively flat so the frogs are able to get in and out of the water. Once you have an ideal spot, dig up any stones you see. Remove plants by digging underneath their roots to lift them out of the soil. If you need to dig up sod, cut it into strips with a spade, then roll it up to clear the ground. The flatter the land is, the better it will be for your pond. If it isn’t flat, consider digging out the high points and filling in the low points. Avoid placing the pond near slopes, since water and debris will seep into it. 1-3. Measure the space you have available for your pond. Sketch an outline on the soil with some marking spray paint. An average pond is about 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 5 ft (1.5 m) wide. Bigger ponds provide more shelter for the frogs and are better if you have space for them. Most constructed frog ponds are oval or crescent-shaped. Adjust the shape of your pond as needed to fit it in the space you have available, but try to keep a basic shape so the pond liner fits it easily. 2. Constructing the Pond 2-1. Dig out the soil until the pond is at least 1 ft (0.30 m) deep. Remove the soil, setting it aside away from the pond’s edges. Make sure the pond reaches its maximum depth in the center. The pond does not need to be deep in order to be a good habitat for frogs. Make the pond no more than 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. This depth is enough for frogs in colder climates to safely hibernate during the winter. 2-2. Pack dirt into the pond to create a gentle slope up to the sides. The pond needs to slope gradually so frogs have no trouble climbing out of the water. Start putting the soil back around the edges of the pond. Keep filling the pond to create a very gentle incline towards the center, which will be the deepest point. Make a 10% grade or smaller incline. As long as the pond’s slopes gently without any ridges around the perimeter, it will be safe for frogs. 2-3. Press the soil down with a tamper tool to flatten it. A tamper tool is a square-shaped tool that you press down against the soil to compact it. Go over the entire pond until the soil is firmly in place. The tamper will also press rocks into the soil so their rough edges can’t slice up the pond liner. Tamper tools are available at most hardware stores. You may be able to rent one there as well. 2-4. Fill the pond with a protective underlay to prevent damage to the liner. Select an underlay that is big enough to cover your entire pond. Center the underlay in the hole you dug, draping it over the pond’s edges. Press down against the underlay, smoothing it out to eliminate wrinkles and air bubbles. Underlays are made of a soft material like polypropylene. They are extra useful if you have rocky soil or have pets and wild animals that may visit the pond. If you have high-clay soil or wetland soil, you may be able to skip using a pond liner and underlay. The pond will fill with water on its own. 2-5. Fit an EPDM or PVC pond liner over the underlay. Choose a pond liner that is big enough to cover your pond. Fit it in place the same way you did with the underlay. Make sure it covers the entire underlay, then flatten it out to remove wrinkles and air pockets that could lead to damage later. If you wish to remove the excess liner and underlay, cut it with scissors or a utility knife. Leave them a little long so they overhang the pond walls. Removing the excess is optional since you can always cover it with rocks and plants. Another option is to get a rigid plastic liner from a home improvement store. This type of liner is like a tub which you set in the ground. You do not need an underlay beneath it. Alternatively, you can have a concrete pond. It is a pond that does not give you any problems. You can waterproof the pond. You don't have to worry about the liner getting a hole. It is the ultimate pond structure you can get. But most people don't have a budget to do a full plumbing system in the concrete, rebar, and structural components that take up or make up the cost of the concrete structure for a pond. So if you have the money, build a concrete pond. 2-6. Place heavy rocks around the pond to hold the liner in place. Get several big landscaping rocks and fit them inside the pond. Rest them against the edges of the soil. These stones cover up the liner and provide some hiding spots for tadpoles. To make the rocks look more natural, choose stones that do not look uniform. Position them all differently instead of laying them horizontally in a ring. Check landscaping companies and nearby home improvement stores for stones. You may be able to find some in the wild, but don’t take them unless you have permission to do so. 2-7. Cover the pond liner with about 6 in (15 cm) of gravel. Purchase a few bags of pond gravel, set them in your pond, and cut them open. Spread the rocks around to create an even bottom layer hiding the pond liner from view. The rocks also serve as a cushion to protect the liner from damage. Sand and dirt also work but make the pond look dirty. Try mixing some gravel in with play sand or topsoil to create a more effective bottom layer. 3. Decorating and Filling the Pond 3-1. Place plants in the pond to provide shelter for the frogs. Pick out some plants that grow naturally in your area. Bushy, leafy plants are ideal since they both provide cover and attract insects frogs love to eat. Take the plants out of their pots and install them directly in the sand or gravel at the bottom of the pond. Scatter them around so they give your pond a more natural aesthetic. Some good plants for the deeper parts of the pond include pennywort, water celery, Mexican starflower, tassel sedge, and marsh flowers. For the shallower parts of the pond, choose plants like sedges, water canna, rush, nardoo, lemon bacopa, and arrowhead. 3-2. Include filter plants to keep the pond clean and oxygenated. Put the filter plants in the pond along with the other plants. A few plants to try include anacharis, water hyacinths, tapegrass, and water lilies. Free-floating plants like hornwort also help, but fill the pond with water before adding them. Frog ponds aren’t usually equipped with a filter. If your pond is large, consider installing a pump and filter system. Pumps can be dangerous to tadpoles, so rely on plants if possible. 3-3. Grow grass and other plants for shelter around the pond. Moisture-loving plants create shade while also making your pond look more natural. Dig up the soil beyond the pool liner and put the plants in place. Some plants to grow include maidenhair ferns, violets, bottlebrush, coral pea, and deer grass. Cover the roots up with a mound of soil or some wood-based mulch. Slice away the excess pool liner as needed to fit the plants near the water’s edge. Be careful not to cut the liner down too far. Let it extend past the pond’s edges by at least 2 in (5.1 cm). Fill in the gaps between plants with gravel, stones, and soil to hide an exposed pool liner. 3-4. Add logs to the pool to give it more texture. Frogs, especially vulnerable tadpoles, enjoy having places to hide. Improve your pond by getting a piece of driftwood, for instance, and setting it near a pond wall. Make sure it’s stuck firmly in place near some water plants. If you don’t have a good piece of driftwood, try piling dirt to create mounds close to the edges of the pond. The mounds make the pond look more natural while also giving the frogs a little bit of hiding space. 3-5. Use a hose to fill the pond to the top with water. Run a garden hose from a nearby spigot to the pond. Your pond needs between 18 to 24 in (46 to 61 cm) of warm water. Make sure the pond stays filled, especially during warmer months. Fill the pond as needed to keep the water level consistent. Let the pond fill with rainwater, if possible. Rainwater has less harmful chemicals than tap water and doesn’t need to be treated. Tadpoles hatch in late spring and grow throughout the summer. This is the most important season for maintaining the pond’s water level. 3-6. Dechlorinate the water with a chemical treatment and a hose. Purchase a jug of dechlorinating powder, then sprinkle it into the water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. To mix in the powder, turn on your hose and spray the pond’s surface. Chlorine is toxic to frogs, so you won’t see any at your pond unless you dechlorinate the water first. Any time you need to add tap water to the pond, add some of the powder. Tips Frogs get very noisy at night, so if the pond is near your home, keep it away from your bedroom window.[14] X Research source You do not need to catch tadpoles to stock your pond. As long as you build a good habitat, frogs will come. Sometimes this takes several years. If it takes too long, try buying tadpoles from a supply store. Flower pots are a good way to create hiding spots around the pond. Tip them over and set them in the dirt. Warnings Some plant species are invasive and restricted by law. Research what pond plants grow naturally in your region. These plants are usually safe to grow around a pond. You can get in legal trouble for taking tadpoles from the wild. Always check your local laws. Instead, wait for frogs to come to your pond or tadpoles from outside sources.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Selecting a Location\\n1-1. Pick a spot with both sunlight and shade.\\nPlan on building the pond in a location that is about 70% covered by shade. A good place to build a pond is partially underneath the shade of a tree. Sunlight keeps the pond warm while shade prevents the frogs and their water from drying out.\\nBuild underneath a deciduous plant like an oak and maple trees. The tree will lose its leaves in the fall so the pond receives full sunlight in the winter, preventing it from freezing.\\n1-2. Choose flat land clear of rocks and grass.\\nFrog ponds are relatively flat so the frogs are able to get in and out of the water. Once you have an ideal spot, dig up any stones you see. Remove plants by digging underneath their roots to lift them out of the soil. If you need to dig up sod, cut it into strips with a spade, then roll it up to clear the ground. \\nThe flatter the land is, the better it will be for your pond. If it isn’t flat, consider digging out the high points and filling in the low points. Avoid placing the pond near slopes, since water and debris will seep into it.\\n1-3. Measure the space you have available for your pond.\\nSketch an outline on the soil with some marking spray paint. An average pond is about 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 5 ft (1.5 m) wide. Bigger ponds provide more shelter for the frogs and are better if you have space for them.\\nMost constructed frog ponds are oval or crescent-shaped. Adjust the shape of your pond as needed to fit it in the space you have available, but try to keep a basic shape so the pond liner fits it easily.\\n2. Constructing the Pond\\n2-1. Dig out the soil until the pond is at least 1 ft (0.30 m) deep.\\nRemove the soil, setting it aside away from the pond’s edges. Make sure the pond reaches its maximum depth in the center. The pond does not need to be deep in order to be a good habitat for frogs. \\nMake the pond no more than 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. This depth is enough for frogs in colder climates to safely hibernate during the winter.\\n2-2. Pack dirt into the pond to create a gentle slope up to the sides.\\nThe pond needs to slope gradually so frogs have no trouble climbing out of the water. Start putting the soil back around the edges of the pond. Keep filling the pond to create a very gentle incline towards the center, which will be the deepest point.\\nMake a 10% grade or smaller incline. As long as the pond’s slopes gently without any ridges around the perimeter, it will be safe for frogs.\\n2-3. Press the soil down with a tamper tool to flatten it.\\nA tamper tool is a square-shaped tool that you press down against the soil to compact it. Go over the entire pond until the soil is firmly in place. The tamper will also press rocks into the soil so their rough edges can’t slice up the pond liner.\\nTamper tools are available at most hardware stores. You may be able to rent one there as well.\\n2-4. Fill the pond with a protective underlay to prevent damage to the liner.\\nSelect an underlay that is big enough to cover your entire pond. Center the underlay in the hole you dug, draping it over the pond’s edges. Press down against the underlay, smoothing it out to eliminate wrinkles and air bubbles.\\nUnderlays are made of a soft material like polypropylene. They are extra useful if you have rocky soil or have pets and wild animals that may visit the pond.\\nIf you have high-clay soil or wetland soil, you may be able to skip using a pond liner and underlay. The pond will fill with water on its own.\\n2-5. Fit an EPDM or PVC pond liner over the underlay.\\nChoose a pond liner that is big enough to cover your pond. Fit it in place the same way you did with the underlay. Make sure it covers the entire underlay, then flatten it out to remove wrinkles and air pockets that could lead to damage later. \\nIf you wish to remove the excess liner and underlay, cut it with scissors or a utility knife. Leave them a little long so they overhang the pond walls. Removing the excess is optional since you can always cover it with rocks and plants.\\nAnother option is to get a rigid plastic liner from a home improvement store. This type of liner is like a tub which you set in the ground. You do not need an underlay beneath it.\\nAlternatively, you can have a concrete pond. It is a pond that does not give you any problems.\\nYou can waterproof the pond. You don't have to worry about the liner getting a hole. It is the ultimate pond structure you can get.\\nBut most people don't have a budget to do a full plumbing system in the concrete, rebar, and structural components that take up or make up the cost of the concrete structure for a pond. So if you have the money, build a concrete pond.\\n2-6. Place heavy rocks around the pond to hold the liner in place.\\nGet several big landscaping rocks and fit them inside the pond. Rest them against the edges of the soil. These stones cover up the liner and provide some hiding spots for tadpoles.\\nTo make the rocks look more natural, choose stones that do not look uniform. Position them all differently instead of laying them horizontally in a ring.\\nCheck landscaping companies and nearby home improvement stores for stones. You may be able to find some in the wild, but don’t take them unless you have permission to do so.\\n2-7. Cover the pond liner with about 6 in (15 cm) of gravel.\\nPurchase a few bags of pond gravel, set them in your pond, and cut them open. Spread the rocks around to create an even bottom layer hiding the pond liner from view. The rocks also serve as a cushion to protect the liner from damage.\\nSand and dirt also work but make the pond look dirty. Try mixing some gravel in with play sand or topsoil to create a more effective bottom layer.\\n3. Decorating and Filling the Pond\\n3-1. Place plants in the pond to provide shelter for the frogs.\\nPick out some plants that grow naturally in your area. Bushy, leafy plants are ideal since they both provide cover and attract insects frogs love to eat. Take the plants out of their pots and install them directly in the sand or gravel at the bottom of the pond. Scatter them around so they give your pond a more natural aesthetic.\\nSome good plants for the deeper parts of the pond include pennywort, water celery, Mexican starflower, tassel sedge, and marsh flowers.\\nFor the shallower parts of the pond, choose plants like sedges, water canna, rush, nardoo, lemon bacopa, and arrowhead.\\n3-2. Include filter plants to keep the pond clean and oxygenated.\\nPut the filter plants in the pond along with the other plants. A few plants to try include anacharis, water hyacinths, tapegrass, and water lilies. Free-floating plants like hornwort also help, but fill the pond with water before adding them.\\nFrog ponds aren’t usually equipped with a filter. If your pond is large, consider installing a pump and filter system. Pumps can be dangerous to tadpoles, so rely on plants if possible.\\n3-3. Grow grass and other plants for shelter around the pond.\\nMoisture-loving plants create shade while also making your pond look more natural. Dig up the soil beyond the pool liner and put the plants in place. Some plants to grow include maidenhair ferns, violets, bottlebrush, coral pea, and deer grass. Cover the roots up with a mound of soil or some wood-based mulch.\\nSlice away the excess pool liner as needed to fit the plants near the water’s edge. Be careful not to cut the liner down too far. Let it extend past the pond’s edges by at least 2 in (5.1 cm).\\nFill in the gaps between plants with gravel, stones, and soil to hide an exposed pool liner.\\n3-4. Add logs to the pool to give it more texture.\\nFrogs, especially vulnerable tadpoles, enjoy having places to hide. Improve your pond by getting a piece of driftwood, for instance, and setting it near a pond wall. Make sure it’s stuck firmly in place near some water plants.\\nIf you don’t have a good piece of driftwood, try piling dirt to create mounds close to the edges of the pond. The mounds make the pond look more natural while also giving the frogs a little bit of hiding space.\\n3-5. Use a hose to fill the pond to the top with water.\\nRun a garden hose from a nearby spigot to the pond. Your pond needs between 18 to 24 in (46 to 61 cm) of warm water. Make sure the pond stays filled, especially during warmer months. Fill the pond as needed to keep the water level consistent. \\nLet the pond fill with rainwater, if possible. Rainwater has less harmful chemicals than tap water and doesn’t need to be treated.\\nTadpoles hatch in late spring and grow throughout the summer. This is the most important season for maintaining the pond’s water level.\\n3-6. Dechlorinate the water with a chemical treatment and a hose.\\nPurchase a jug of dechlorinating powder, then sprinkle it into the water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. To mix in the powder, turn on your hose and spray the pond’s surface. Chlorine is toxic to frogs, so you won’t see any at your pond unless you dechlorinate the water first.\\nAny time you need to add tap water to the pond, add some of the powder.\\nTips\\nFrogs get very noisy at night, so if the pond is near your home, keep it away from your bedroom window.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nYou do not need to catch tadpoles to stock your pond. As long as you build a good habitat, frogs will come. Sometimes this takes several years. If it takes too long, try buying tadpoles from a supply store.\\nFlower pots are a good way to create hiding spots around the pond. Tip them over and set them in the dirt.\\nWarnings\\nSome plant species are invasive and restricted by law. Research what pond plants grow naturally in your region. These plants are usually safe to grow around a pond.\\nYou can get in legal trouble for taking tadpoles from the wild. Always check your local laws. Instead, wait for frogs to come to your pond or tadpoles from outside sources.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own frog pond is a great way to turn your yard into a mini-oasis while also providing for local wildlife. Frogs enjoy ponds that are shallow, slope gently, and have plenty of hiding spots. Installing a pond liner and rocks provides the frogs with what they need while also making the pond more durable. Then, fill the pond with bushy plants and logs to increase your chances of attracting local wildlife.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Selecting a Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Pick a spot with both sunlight and shade.\", \"描述\": \"Plan on building the pond in a location that is about 70% covered by shade. A good place to build a pond is partially underneath the shade of a tree. Sunlight keeps the pond warm while shade prevents the frogs and their water from drying out.\\nBuild underneath a deciduous plant like an oak and maple trees. The tree will lose its leaves in the fall so the pond receives full sunlight in the winter, preventing it from freezing.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose flat land clear of rocks and grass.\", \"描述\": \"Frog ponds are relatively flat so the frogs are able to get in and out of the water. Once you have an ideal spot, dig up any stones you see. Remove plants by digging underneath their roots to lift them out of the soil. If you need to dig up sod, cut it into strips with a spade, then roll it up to clear the ground. \\nThe flatter the land is, the better it will be for your pond. If it isn’t flat, consider digging out the high points and filling in the low points. Avoid placing the pond near slopes, since water and debris will seep into it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure the space you have available for your pond.\", \"描述\": \"Sketch an outline on the soil with some marking spray paint. An average pond is about 5 ft (1.5 m) long and 5 ft (1.5 m) wide. Bigger ponds provide more shelter for the frogs and are better if you have space for them.\\nMost constructed frog ponds are oval or crescent-shaped. Adjust the shape of your pond as needed to fit it in the space you have available, but try to keep a basic shape so the pond liner fits it easily.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig out the soil until the pond is at least 1 ft (0.30 m) deep.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the soil, setting it aside away from the pond’s edges. Make sure the pond reaches its maximum depth in the center. The pond does not need to be deep in order to be a good habitat for frogs. \\nMake the pond no more than 3 ft (0.91 m) deep. This depth is enough for frogs in colder climates to safely hibernate during the winter.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pack dirt into the pond to create a gentle slope up to the sides.\", \"描述\": \"The pond needs to slope gradually so frogs have no trouble climbing out of the water. Start putting the soil back around the edges of the pond. Keep filling the pond to create a very gentle incline towards the center, which will be the deepest point.\\nMake a 10% grade or smaller incline. As long as the pond’s slopes gently without any ridges around the perimeter, it will be safe for frogs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Press the soil down with a tamper tool to flatten it.\", \"描述\": \"A tamper tool is a square-shaped tool that you press down against the soil to compact it. Go over the entire pond until the soil is firmly in place. The tamper will also press rocks into the soil so their rough edges can’t slice up the pond liner.\\nTamper tools are available at most hardware stores. You may be able to rent one there as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the pond with a protective underlay to prevent damage to the liner.\", \"描述\": \"Select an underlay that is big enough to cover your entire pond. Center the underlay in the hole you dug, draping it over the pond’s edges. Press down against the underlay, smoothing it out to eliminate wrinkles and air bubbles.\\nUnderlays are made of a soft material like polypropylene. They are extra useful if you have rocky soil or have pets and wild animals that may visit the pond.\\nIf you have high-clay soil or wetland soil, you may be able to skip using a pond liner and underlay. The pond will fill with water on its own.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fit an EPDM or PVC pond liner over the underlay.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a pond liner that is big enough to cover your pond. Fit it in place the same way you did with the underlay. Make sure it covers the entire underlay, then flatten it out to remove wrinkles and air pockets that could lead to damage later. \\nIf you wish to remove the excess liner and underlay, cut it with scissors or a utility knife. Leave them a little long so they overhang the pond walls. Removing the excess is optional since you can always cover it with rocks and plants.\\nAnother option is to get a rigid plastic liner from a home improvement store. This type of liner is like a tub which you set in the ground. You do not need an underlay beneath it.\\nAlternatively, you can have a concrete pond. It is a pond that does not give you any problems.\\nYou can waterproof the pond. You don't have to worry about the liner getting a hole. It is the ultimate pond structure you can get.\\nBut most people don't have a budget to do a full plumbing system in the concrete, rebar, and structural components that take up or make up the cost of the concrete structure for a pond. So if you have the money, build a concrete pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place heavy rocks around the pond to hold the liner in place.\", \"描述\": \"Get several big landscaping rocks and fit them inside the pond. Rest them against the edges of the soil. These stones cover up the liner and provide some hiding spots for tadpoles.\\nTo make the rocks look more natural, choose stones that do not look uniform. Position them all differently instead of laying them horizontally in a ring.\\nCheck landscaping companies and nearby home improvement stores for stones. You may be able to find some in the wild, but don’t take them unless you have permission to do so.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cover the pond liner with about 6 in (15 cm) of gravel.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a few bags of pond gravel, set them in your pond, and cut them open. Spread the rocks around to create an even bottom layer hiding the pond liner from view. The rocks also serve as a cushion to protect the liner from damage.\\nSand and dirt also work but make the pond look dirty. Try mixing some gravel in with play sand or topsoil to create a more effective bottom layer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decorating and Filling the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place plants in the pond to provide shelter for the frogs.\", \"描述\": \"Pick out some plants that grow naturally in your area. Bushy, leafy plants are ideal since they both provide cover and attract insects frogs love to eat. Take the plants out of their pots and install them directly in the sand or gravel at the bottom of the pond. Scatter them around so they give your pond a more natural aesthetic.\\nSome good plants for the deeper parts of the pond include pennywort, water celery, Mexican starflower, tassel sedge, and marsh flowers.\\nFor the shallower parts of the pond, choose plants like sedges, water canna, rush, nardoo, lemon bacopa, and arrowhead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Include filter plants to keep the pond clean and oxygenated.\", \"描述\": \"Put the filter plants in the pond along with the other plants. A few plants to try include anacharis, water hyacinths, tapegrass, and water lilies. Free-floating plants like hornwort also help, but fill the pond with water before adding them.\\nFrog ponds aren’t usually equipped with a filter. If your pond is large, consider installing a pump and filter system. Pumps can be dangerous to tadpoles, so rely on plants if possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Grow grass and other plants for shelter around the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Moisture-loving plants create shade while also making your pond look more natural. Dig up the soil beyond the pool liner and put the plants in place. Some plants to grow include maidenhair ferns, violets, bottlebrush, coral pea, and deer grass. Cover the roots up with a mound of soil or some wood-based mulch.\\nSlice away the excess pool liner as needed to fit the plants near the water’s edge. Be careful not to cut the liner down too far. Let it extend past the pond’s edges by at least 2 in (5.1 cm).\\nFill in the gaps between plants with gravel, stones, and soil to hide an exposed pool liner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add logs to the pool to give it more texture.\", \"描述\": \"Frogs, especially vulnerable tadpoles, enjoy having places to hide. Improve your pond by getting a piece of driftwood, for instance, and setting it near a pond wall. Make sure it’s stuck firmly in place near some water plants.\\nIf you don’t have a good piece of driftwood, try piling dirt to create mounds close to the edges of the pond. The mounds make the pond look more natural while also giving the frogs a little bit of hiding space.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use a hose to fill the pond to the top with water.\", \"描述\": \"Run a garden hose from a nearby spigot to the pond. Your pond needs between 18 to 24 in (46 to 61 cm) of warm water. Make sure the pond stays filled, especially during warmer months. Fill the pond as needed to keep the water level consistent. \\nLet the pond fill with rainwater, if possible. Rainwater has less harmful chemicals than tap water and doesn’t need to be treated.\\nTadpoles hatch in late spring and grow throughout the summer. This is the most important season for maintaining the pond’s water level.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dechlorinate the water with a chemical treatment and a hose.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a jug of dechlorinating powder, then sprinkle it into the water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. To mix in the powder, turn on your hose and spray the pond’s surface. Chlorine is toxic to frogs, so you won’t see any at your pond unless you dechlorinate the water first.\\nAny time you need to add tap water to the pond, add some of the powder.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Frogs get very noisy at night, so if the pond is near your home, keep it away from your bedroom window.[14]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"You do not need to catch tadpoles to stock your pond. As long as you build a good habitat, frogs will come. Sometimes this takes several years. If it takes too long, try buying tadpoles from a supply store.\\n\", \"Flower pots are a good way to create hiding spots around the pond. Tip them over and set them in the dirt.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Some plant species are invasive and restricted by law. Research what pond plants grow naturally in your region. These plants are usually safe to grow around a pond.\\n\", \"You can get in legal trouble for taking tadpoles from the wild. Always check your local laws. Instead, wait for frogs to come to your pond or tadpoles from outside sources.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,352
How to Build a Fuel Cell
1. Building the Fuel Cell 1-1. Gather all of the necessary materials. To build a simple household fuel cell, you will need 12 inches (30 cm) of platinum or platinum-coated wire, a popsicle stick, a 9-volt battery and battery clip, clear tape, a glass of water, table salt (optional), a thin metal rod, and a volt meter. A 9-volt battery and battery clip can be purchased at an electronics or hardware store. 1-2. Cut two 6-inch (15-centimeter) strips of platinum or platinum-coated wire. You will need to purchase this wire from an electronics supply store, as platinum isn't used for common wiring purposes. The platinum serves as the catalyst for this reaction. Platinum wires are recommended because other substances, such as copper, will react with the oxygen or the salt to pollute your solution with the products of this reaction. High quality stainless steel can also be used as it will not react as readily. 1-3. Wind each wire strip around a thin metal rod to shape it into a spring. These two springs will serve as the fuel cell's electrodes. Take the end of the wire and wrap it tightly around your shaping rod to form a coil. Remove the first wire from the shaping rod and wrap the second wire. The shaping rod can be a nail, pick, wire coat hanger or lead on a battery tester. 1-4. Cut the leads from a 9-volt battery clip in half. Using a wire cutter, snip both of the wires attached to the clip in half and strip the insulation off the leads. This will leave bare wires that you can attach to your electrode coils. Using the stripping portion of the wire cutters, strip the insulation off of one end of the cut wires. Only strip the ends of the leads you cut off the battery clip. Make sure that you have parental supervision while you're cutting the wires. 1-5. Attach the exposed wire ends to the electrode coils. Attaching the wire leads to the electrodes allows you to hook up your power source (the battery via the battery clip) and the voltmeter for reading how much electricity the fuel cell is producing. Twist the red battery clip lead and the red clipped wire lead around the top end of one of the coils, leaving most of the coil free. Twist the black battery clip lead and black clipped wire lead around the top end of the remaining coil. 1-6. Tape the electrodes to a popsicle stick or dowel rod. The popsicle stick needs to be longer than the mouth of the container holding the water so it can rest on top. Tape the electrodes so that they hang down, away from the stick and can be easily submerged into the water. You can use clear plastic tape or electrical tape. It doesn’t matter as long as the electrodes are firmly attached to the stick. 1-7. Fill the glass with tap water or salt water. In order to get a good reaction, the water solution needs electrolytes. Distilled water does not work well for this because there are no impurities to serve as electrolytes. Salt and baking soda dissolved in water serve as good electrolytes for the reaction. Regular tap water has impurities in it such as minerals that can serve as electrolytes if you don’t have any salt handy. Add a tablespoon of salt or baking soda for each cup of water. Stir until fully dissolved. 1-8. Lay the stick over the mouth of a glass of water. The coil electrodes should be submerged in the water for most of their length, except where they're connected to the wires from the battery clip. Only the platinum should be submerged. If necessary, tape the stick in place so the electrodes stay in the water. 1-9. Connect the wires coming from the electrodes to a voltmeter or LED bulb. The voltmeter is to show electric current created by the fuel cell once it's activated. Connect the red wire to the meter's positive terminal and the black wire to the negative terminal. You may see a small amount of voltage at this point, such as 0.01 volts, although the voltmeter should read zero at this point. You can also connect a small bulb, such as a flashlight bulb, or a light-emitting diode (LED). 2. Activating the Fuel Cell 2-1. Touch the 9-volt battery terminals to the battery clip for one to two seconds. The battery is needed only to send an initial current through the wire to cause the hydrogen in the water molecules touching the electrodes to separate from the oxygen, forming bubbles around the electrodes. This process is called electrolysis. Notice the bubbles forming around each electrode. One electrode has bubbles of hydrogen, while the other electrode has oxygen bubbles. The battery source does not need to be completely attached the clip, just touched to the battery terminals to begin the reaction. 2-2. Remove the battery. The battery is only needed to initiate the reaction. The separated hydrogen and oxygen will recombine into water, releasing the energy originally used to split them as electricity. The platinum in the electrode coils serves as a catalyst to speed the recombination of the hydrogen and oxygen into water molecules. 2-3. Read the output on the voltmeter. Initially, the output may be as great as two volts, but will decline as the hydrogen bubbles dissipate, quickly at first and then gradually as the last of the bubbles pop. A light bulb or LED may appear bright initially, but will quickly dim and then gradually fade away. Tips Although this fuel cell used water as the electrolyte, commercial fuel cells use potassium hydroxide (the type used in the Apollo space program), phosphoric acid, molten sodium or magnesium carbonate at high temperature or special polymers.[8] X Research source Individual fuel cells produce only a small amount of electricity, much like the fuel cell described above. Commercially, many individual fuel cells are assembled into stacks. Warnings While operating this fuel cell, keep it away from open flames or heat sources. Although the amount of hydrogen produced is small, hydrogen is a highly combustible gas.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Fuel Cell\\n1-1. Gather all of the necessary materials.\\nTo build a simple household fuel cell, you will need 12 inches (30 cm) of platinum or platinum-coated wire, a popsicle stick, a 9-volt battery and battery clip, clear tape, a glass of water, table salt (optional), a thin metal rod, and a volt meter.\\nA 9-volt battery and battery clip can be purchased at an electronics or hardware store.\\n1-2. Cut two 6-inch (15-centimeter) strips of platinum or platinum-coated wire.\\nYou will need to purchase this wire from an electronics supply store, as platinum isn't used for common wiring purposes. The platinum serves as the catalyst for this reaction. \\nPlatinum wires are recommended because other substances, such as copper, will react with the oxygen or the salt to pollute your solution with the products of this reaction.\\nHigh quality stainless steel can also be used as it will not react as readily.\\n1-3. Wind each wire strip around a thin metal rod to shape it into a spring.\\nThese two springs will serve as the fuel cell's electrodes. Take the end of the wire and wrap it tightly around your shaping rod to form a coil. Remove the first wire from the shaping rod and wrap the second wire. \\nThe shaping rod can be a nail, pick, wire coat hanger or lead on a battery tester.\\n1-4. Cut the leads from a 9-volt battery clip in half.\\nUsing a wire cutter, snip both of the wires attached to the clip in half and strip the insulation off the leads. This will leave bare wires that you can attach to your electrode coils.\\nUsing the stripping portion of the wire cutters, strip the insulation off of one end of the cut wires. Only strip the ends of the leads you cut off the battery clip.\\nMake sure that you have parental supervision while you're cutting the wires.\\n1-5. Attach the exposed wire ends to the electrode coils.\\nAttaching the wire leads to the electrodes allows you to hook up your power source (the battery via the battery clip) and the voltmeter for reading how much electricity the fuel cell is producing. \\nTwist the red battery clip lead and the red clipped wire lead around the top end of one of the coils, leaving most of the coil free.\\nTwist the black battery clip lead and black clipped wire lead around the top end of the remaining coil.\\n1-6. Tape the electrodes to a popsicle stick or dowel rod.\\nThe popsicle stick needs to be longer than the mouth of the container holding the water so it can rest on top. Tape the electrodes so that they hang down, away from the stick and can be easily submerged into the water. \\nYou can use clear plastic tape or electrical tape. It doesn’t matter as long as the electrodes are firmly attached to the stick.\\n1-7. Fill the glass with tap water or salt water.\\nIn order to get a good reaction, the water solution needs electrolytes. Distilled water does not work well for this because there are no impurities to serve as electrolytes. Salt and baking soda dissolved in water serve as good electrolytes for the reaction.\\nRegular tap water has impurities in it such as minerals that can serve as electrolytes if you don’t have any salt handy.\\nAdd a tablespoon of salt or baking soda for each cup of water. Stir until fully dissolved.\\n1-8. Lay the stick over the mouth of a glass of water.\\nThe coil electrodes should be submerged in the water for most of their length, except where they're connected to the wires from the battery clip. Only the platinum should be submerged.\\nIf necessary, tape the stick in place so the electrodes stay in the water.\\n1-9. Connect the wires coming from the electrodes to a voltmeter or LED bulb.\\nThe voltmeter is to show electric current created by the fuel cell once it's activated. Connect the red wire to the meter's positive terminal and the black wire to the negative terminal.\\nYou may see a small amount of voltage at this point, such as 0.01 volts, although the voltmeter should read zero at this point.\\nYou can also connect a small bulb, such as a flashlight bulb, or a light-emitting diode (LED).\\n2. Activating the Fuel Cell\\n2-1. Touch the 9-volt battery terminals to the battery clip for one to two seconds.\\nThe battery is needed only to send an initial current through the wire to cause the hydrogen in the water molecules touching the electrodes to separate from the oxygen, forming bubbles around the electrodes. This process is called electrolysis.\\nNotice the bubbles forming around each electrode. One electrode has bubbles of hydrogen, while the other electrode has oxygen bubbles.\\nThe battery source does not need to be completely attached the clip, just touched to the battery terminals to begin the reaction.\\n2-2. Remove the battery.\\nThe battery is only needed to initiate the reaction. The separated hydrogen and oxygen will recombine into water, releasing the energy originally used to split them as electricity. The platinum in the electrode coils serves as a catalyst to speed the recombination of the hydrogen and oxygen into water molecules.\\n2-3. Read the output on the voltmeter.\\nInitially, the output may be as great as two volts, but will decline as the hydrogen bubbles dissipate, quickly at first and then gradually as the last of the bubbles pop.\\nA light bulb or LED may appear bright initially, but will quickly dim and then gradually fade away.\\nTips\\nAlthough this fuel cell used water as the electrolyte, commercial fuel cells use potassium hydroxide (the type used in the Apollo space program), phosphoric acid, molten sodium or magnesium carbonate at high temperature or special polymers.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nIndividual fuel cells produce only a small amount of electricity, much like the fuel cell described above. Commercially, many individual fuel cells are assembled into stacks.\\nWarnings\\nWhile operating this fuel cell, keep it away from open flames or heat sources. Although the amount of hydrogen produced is small, hydrogen is a highly combustible gas.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"To understand how a fuel cell works, you can build a simple electrolytic cell with mostly common household materials. Keep reading to learn how!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Fuel Cell\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather all of the necessary materials.\", \"描述\": \"To build a simple household fuel cell, you will need 12 inches (30 cm) of platinum or platinum-coated wire, a popsicle stick, a 9-volt battery and battery clip, clear tape, a glass of water, table salt (optional), a thin metal rod, and a volt meter.\\nA 9-volt battery and battery clip can be purchased at an electronics or hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut two 6-inch (15-centimeter) strips of platinum or platinum-coated wire.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to purchase this wire from an electronics supply store, as platinum isn't used for common wiring purposes. The platinum serves as the catalyst for this reaction. \\nPlatinum wires are recommended because other substances, such as copper, will react with the oxygen or the salt to pollute your solution with the products of this reaction.\\nHigh quality stainless steel can also be used as it will not react as readily.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wind each wire strip around a thin metal rod to shape it into a spring.\", \"描述\": \"These two springs will serve as the fuel cell's electrodes. Take the end of the wire and wrap it tightly around your shaping rod to form a coil. Remove the first wire from the shaping rod and wrap the second wire. \\nThe shaping rod can be a nail, pick, wire coat hanger or lead on a battery tester.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the leads from a 9-volt battery clip in half.\", \"描述\": \"Using a wire cutter, snip both of the wires attached to the clip in half and strip the insulation off the leads. This will leave bare wires that you can attach to your electrode coils.\\nUsing the stripping portion of the wire cutters, strip the insulation off of one end of the cut wires. Only strip the ends of the leads you cut off the battery clip.\\nMake sure that you have parental supervision while you're cutting the wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the exposed wire ends to the electrode coils.\", \"描述\": \"Attaching the wire leads to the electrodes allows you to hook up your power source (the battery via the battery clip) and the voltmeter for reading how much electricity the fuel cell is producing. \\nTwist the red battery clip lead and the red clipped wire lead around the top end of one of the coils, leaving most of the coil free.\\nTwist the black battery clip lead and black clipped wire lead around the top end of the remaining coil.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tape the electrodes to a popsicle stick or dowel rod.\", \"描述\": \"The popsicle stick needs to be longer than the mouth of the container holding the water so it can rest on top. Tape the electrodes so that they hang down, away from the stick and can be easily submerged into the water. \\nYou can use clear plastic tape or electrical tape. It doesn’t matter as long as the electrodes are firmly attached to the stick.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill the glass with tap water or salt water.\", \"描述\": \"In order to get a good reaction, the water solution needs electrolytes. Distilled water does not work well for this because there are no impurities to serve as electrolytes. Salt and baking soda dissolved in water serve as good electrolytes for the reaction.\\nRegular tap water has impurities in it such as minerals that can serve as electrolytes if you don’t have any salt handy.\\nAdd a tablespoon of salt or baking soda for each cup of water. Stir until fully dissolved.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Lay the stick over the mouth of a glass of water.\", \"描述\": \"The coil electrodes should be submerged in the water for most of their length, except where they're connected to the wires from the battery clip. Only the platinum should be submerged.\\nIf necessary, tape the stick in place so the electrodes stay in the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Connect the wires coming from the electrodes to a voltmeter or LED bulb.\", \"描述\": \"The voltmeter is to show electric current created by the fuel cell once it's activated. Connect the red wire to the meter's positive terminal and the black wire to the negative terminal.\\nYou may see a small amount of voltage at this point, such as 0.01 volts, although the voltmeter should read zero at this point.\\nYou can also connect a small bulb, such as a flashlight bulb, or a light-emitting diode (LED).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Activating the Fuel Cell\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Touch the 9-volt battery terminals to the battery clip for one to two seconds.\", \"描述\": \"The battery is needed only to send an initial current through the wire to cause the hydrogen in the water molecules touching the electrodes to separate from the oxygen, forming bubbles around the electrodes. This process is called electrolysis.\\nNotice the bubbles forming around each electrode. One electrode has bubbles of hydrogen, while the other electrode has oxygen bubbles.\\nThe battery source does not need to be completely attached the clip, just touched to the battery terminals to begin the reaction.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the battery.\", \"描述\": \"The battery is only needed to initiate the reaction. The separated hydrogen and oxygen will recombine into water, releasing the energy originally used to split them as electricity. The platinum in the electrode coils serves as a catalyst to speed the recombination of the hydrogen and oxygen into water molecules.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Read the output on the voltmeter.\", \"描述\": \"Initially, the output may be as great as two volts, but will decline as the hydrogen bubbles dissipate, quickly at first and then gradually as the last of the bubbles pop.\\nA light bulb or LED may appear bright initially, but will quickly dim and then gradually fade away.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Although this fuel cell used water as the electrolyte, commercial fuel cells use potassium hydroxide (the type used in the Apollo space program), phosphoric acid, molten sodium or magnesium carbonate at high temperature or special polymers.[8]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Individual fuel cells produce only a small amount of electricity, much like the fuel cell described above. Commercially, many individual fuel cells are assembled into stacks.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"While operating this fuel cell, keep it away from open flames or heat sources. Although the amount of hydrogen produced is small, hydrogen is a highly combustible gas.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,353
How to Build a Fully Functioning School in the Sims 2
1. Using Simlogical's School System 1-1. Access Simlogical's Institutions page. Go to http://www.simlogical.com/sl/Sims2Pages/Sims2_Institutions.htm. There are two pages with the materials you'll need - the "School Page" and the page labeled "Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution". Open both pages. 1-2. Download the files from the School page. You'll need almost every file on this page to run a school. Click on the link on the page to download the file. Click on the page links to save the files to your computer's Downloads folder. You'll need: ijSchoolBell.zip ijSchoolPupilToken.zip ijSchoolClassroomController.zip ijSchoolClassroomDoorDiner.zip ijSchoolCrowdController.zip ijSchoolClassTable.zip or ijSchoolClassPlace.zip (only choose one) ijUniformSet_Private.zip or ijUniformSet_Grey.zip if you want the students to wear uniforms (only choose one) ijSchoolCollection.zip if you want the school objects in a collection file in-game (optional) 1-3. Download any desired institutional items. On the "Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution Page", you can download any other objects you have that are compatible with your game, but they're not strictly necessary. The Institution Sign will disable the school bus from arriving at the lot. (If you don't have the sign, you'll need to download the School Changer and the Flexi School option.) The institution doors on this page don't have any special capabilities, but are a good option if you want consistency on the school lot. The Metal Bed, Pine Bed, Canteen Servery, and all patches are designed to work with the school bell, but aren't compatible with expansions released after Open for Business. 1-4. Extract the files. All of the files are stored in .zip archives. Double-click on the files to open them; you'll find .package files inside. If you're on Windows, use a program like 7zip, select all the .zip files, right-click, and choose Extract to *\ to unpack them all at once. On a Mac, you can either open them with Archive Utility (macOS's default program) or with The Unarchiver. Select all the .zip files and press ⌘ Cmd+O to open them all at once. 1-5. Place the package files in your game's Downloads folder. You may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated. Open File Explorer {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/0\/04\/File_Explorer_Icon.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/0\/04\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":460,"bigWidth":30,"bigHeight":30,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external free\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\">https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\n<\/p><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a> (screenshot)<br>\n<\/p><\/div>"} or Finder {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/1\/1d\/Macfinder2.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/1d\/Macfinder2.png\/32px-Macfinder2.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":431,"bigWidth":32,"bigHeight":30,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\n<\/p><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a><br>\n<\/p><\/div>"}. Navigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window. Double-click the folder titled "EA Games". Double-click the folder titled "The Sims 2". Double-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled "Downloads". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it "Downloads".) Move all of the IJ package files into the Downloads folder. 1-6. Open your game. Once you have all the necessary content, you can start your game. If you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says "Enable custom content", press OK, and then restart your game. 1-7. Create a new residential lot. Your school will be built on this lot. There's no specific size you should use, but it should be big enough to accommodate the needs of the students as well as the teachers. It's possible to run schools on an owned community lot if you have Open for Business, but you may need to use a visitor controller to keep random adults and elders off the lot. 1-8. Construct your school. Every school is different, but you'll need classrooms and certain objects for the school to run properly. Build as many classrooms as you choose. Put some "Classroom Table and Workbook" or "School Class Place" objects in the room for desks, objects for fun or building skills (if desired), and place a classroom controller in each classroom. Put down a classroom door and point the arrow into the room. Place a School Bell and Crowd Controller anywhere on the lot. Place the Uniform Setter on the lot, if you want your students to wear uniforms. Put the Institution Sign on the lot. If you want your school to be a boarding school, make at least one room with multiple beds (to serve as a dorm). Ensure you have enough bathrooms, as well as a way to feed the students. (Try a buffet table to feed multiple students at once.) Decorate as you see fit. 1-9. Place the pupil tokens on the lot. The pupil tokens allow you to register any child to your school, even if they don't live on the lot. If you're building a typical school, place the pupil tokens somewhere in the school. Don't put them in a classroom or bedroom. If you're building a boarding school, put one pupil token in the dorm for every student you want to sleep in that dorm. 1-10. Assign students and teachers. Once your school is built, you can assign some children or teens to the school as students, and older Sims to be the teachers. While students don't need to be on the lot to be enrolled, adult or elder Sims must be on the lot to be assigned as teachers. To assign students, click on an empty pupil token. Choose Enroll..., select "Child" or "Teen", select the last name of the family the student lives in, and click on their first name. Then, assign them to a class with Assign to class..., and choose a class number. (You can expel students by clicking their pupil token and clicking Expel [Name].) To assign a teacher to the classroom, click a room's Classroom Controller, click Set teacher to..., and then select the Sim you want to be the teacher. Teachers can only enter classrooms that they're assigned to. Set a principal to run the school by clicking the School Bell and clicking Set Principal to.... Principals can enter any classroom. 1-11. Set the school rules and times, classroom times and subjects. Your Sims won't be able to complete much schoolwork if you don't have class times or subjects set, so you'll need to set that with the Classroom Controller. You can also set rules that prevent your students from behaving in distracting ways. Click the School Bell to set rules. These rules can disable some autonomous behaviors, like reading in bed or fighting, and can be used to force students to adhere to a bedtime (if you're running a boarding school). Click the Classroom Controller to set class times. Select Timetable Grade work/Classroom for Class... to set what days and times the class is in session. Morning (AM) classes run from 9 AM to 12 PM, while afternoon (PM) classes run from 2 to 5 PM. (If you hit the wrong option, go to the timetable and clear the class.) Click the Classroom Controller to set classes. Use Pre-set Class... to set whether the class is for all students ("All Pupils") or for one specific class. Choose Pre-set Subject... to designate whether the class does Grade work or Classroom work. 1-12. Manage your Sims' day at school. Once you start running the school, you'll be able to control all students and teachers at the school. The School Bell and Classroom Controllers will prompt the student to go where they need to go. To start school, click the School Bell and select Start school. All nonresident students and teachers will be summoned to the lot and made selectable. To start classes, click the Classroom Controller and click Start Grade work for class. The students and teachers will be summoned to the room. Students will usually stay in class, but you can direct them to leave the room if they need something. (If students or teachers wander out of class, click Call... on the Classroom Controller, then click Stray pupils or Teachers to call them back.) Click the School Bell and select End school to make all non-resident students unselectable. (You may have to have a Sim perform "Say Goodbye" for the students to leave.) 2. Using Chris Hatch's Go To School Mod 2-1. Download the hacks required. The Go To School mod requires multiple files to function properly, which are located on Sim File Share. You'll need to download these files to use the mod: CJH_GlobalOverrides(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/) CJH_GlobeSculpture(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/) CJH_GoToSchool(BV+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/) CJH_BusStopSign.package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/) 2-2. Place the files into your game's Downloads folder. You may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated. Open File Explorer {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/0\/04\/File_Explorer_Icon.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/0\/04\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":460,"bigWidth":30,"bigHeight":30,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external free\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\">https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\n<\/p><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a> (screenshot)<br>\n<\/p><\/div>"} or Finder {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/1\/1d\/Macfinder2.png","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/1d\/Macfinder2.png\/32px-Macfinder2.png","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":431,"bigWidth":32,"bigHeight":30,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\n<\/p><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fair_use\">Fair Use<\/a><br>\n<\/p><\/div>"}. Navigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window. Double-click the folder titled "EA Games". Double-click the folder titled "The Sims 2". Double-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled "Downloads". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it "Downloads".) Move all of the CJH package files into the Downloads folder. 2-3. Open your game. Once you have all the necessary mods, you can start your game. If you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says "Enable custom content", press OK, and then restart your game. 2-4. Create a new community lot. You don't need to use any specific lot size, but it's best to keep the lot large enough for an outdoor space and small enough so that it doesn't take too long for Sims to cross the lot. 2-5. Build your school on this lot. The mod requires at least two classrooms as well as playground equipment outdoors, but you can build your school any way you choose. Make two classrooms. Place at least twelve student desks in each. (The mod comes with a one-tile student desk, though any type of desk will work.) Place several bookshelves in the classroom. The mod will send Sims to study skills from books, so place multiple to avoid routing issues. Outside, place playground equipment (like swings or the playground tower from Apartment Life) so that Sims have a place to go for recess. Include restrooms so that Sims can use the bathroom, and fridges or vending machines so they can eat. Decorate as you see fit. 2-6. Place at least two teacher's desks. The mod comes with an orange teacher's desk, which has a vase of flowers on the corner. Place the first desk in the classroom intended for child Sims; this room will be the elementary school classroom. (The flowers on the desk will be white.) The second desk will go in the classroom for teen Sims, and will be the high school classroom; the flowers on the desk will be orange. You can place up to three desks on the lot; the third desk will serve as the headmaster's desk, and will have red flowers. However, placing further desks will cause the headmaster to have trouble figuring out which desk is his. 2-7. Place a globe sculpture to zone the lot as a school. Once you've set up your school the way you want it, find the globe sculpture in Decorations > Sculptures. Click on it to zone your lot as a public school, and then place it somewhere on the lot. If you want to zone the lot as a private school, place two globes on the lot. Three globes will convert it back to public school. The mod will notify you of the school zoning when you click the globe in Buy Mode, so that you don't lose track. 2-8. Save and exit the lot. After you've built and zoned the lot as a school, save your lot and exit to the neighborhood. The lot will show up as a residential lot - this is normal. Do not attempt to move in a family or change the lot zoning. 2-9. Send a child or teen Sim to school. Once the mod recognizes a school of the appropriate type, the school bus will no longer come to the lot; instead, a taxi will come and get all students around 8:30 AM. If only teens go to school, they'll return at 1 PM; if there are only children, or if there are children and teens, they'll return at 3 PM. Sims need to all go to the same school. If some Sims are in private school and the others are in public school, the bus will come instead, because the mod can't figure out where to send the Sims. To deliberately keep the taxi from coming, place the bus stop sign on the lot (either outside or on a surface indoors). This sign triggers the bus to pick up and drop off the Sims as though the mod isn't installed. Use the community lot phone to send your Sim home if they miss the taxi after school. If your Sim misses the taxi to school, you can direct them to take a car to school or walk to school (if you have Apartment Life), but you won't be able to go to school with them. 2-10. Manage your Sim's day at school. Your Sim will be prompted by the bells to go to and from class, and will autonomously study. You can choose what they study rather than letting the controller select it, or cancel out these actions and direct them to socialize with classmates or take care of their needs. If they leave the classroom, they'll be followed by a teacher (or the headmaster) and be scolded, then brought back into the classroom. Once the school day is over, the taxi will arrive to take your Sim back home. If your Sim skips out on studying, their grade will drop when they arrive home. Tips The Simlogical school system does not conflict with the Go To School mod. However, the mods handle grading differently; the Simlogical school system relies on assignments, whereas Go To School uses custom controllers and homework. Simlogical's school tends to have less conflicts with other hacks. Simlogical's school only requires Nightlife and allows for custom schools (like boarding school or homeschool), but it can be harder to manage large schools and it's difficult to control students. Go To School requires Bon Voyage or later and is limited to public and private school, but doesn't require Sims to be living on the school lot, doesn't make every Sim selectable, and controls students more effectively. Warnings Be cautious if two Sims in either school system are enemies. They may fight frequently, which interrupts other Sims' actions so they can stop and watch the fight. Most school-related hacks, like TwoJeff's "Bring Friend Dialogue", will conflict with Go To School.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Using Simlogical's School System\\n1-1. Access Simlogical's Institutions page.\\nGo to http://www.simlogical.com/sl/Sims2Pages/Sims2_Institutions.htm. There are two pages with the materials you'll need - the \\\"School Page\\\" and the page labeled \\\"Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution\\\". Open both pages.\\n1-2. Download the files from the School page.\\nYou'll need almost every file on this page to run a school. Click on the link on the page to download the file. Click on the page links to save the files to your computer's Downloads folder. You'll need:\\nijSchoolBell.zip\\nijSchoolPupilToken.zip\\nijSchoolClassroomController.zip\\nijSchoolClassroomDoorDiner.zip\\nijSchoolCrowdController.zip\\nijSchoolClassTable.zip or ijSchoolClassPlace.zip (only choose one)\\nijUniformSet_Private.zip or ijUniformSet_Grey.zip if you want the students to wear uniforms (only choose one)\\nijSchoolCollection.zip if you want the school objects in a collection file in-game (optional)\\n1-3. Download any desired institutional items.\\nOn the \\\"Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution Page\\\", you can download any other objects you have that are compatible with your game, but they're not strictly necessary. \\nThe Institution Sign will disable the school bus from arriving at the lot. (If you don't have the sign, you'll need to download the School Changer and the Flexi School option.)\\nThe institution doors on this page don't have any special capabilities, but are a good option if you want consistency on the school lot.\\nThe Metal Bed, Pine Bed, Canteen Servery, and all patches are designed to work with the school bell, but aren't compatible with expansions released after Open for Business.\\n1-4. Extract the files.\\nAll of the files are stored in .zip archives. Double-click on the files to open them; you'll find .package files inside.\\nIf you're on Windows, use a program like 7zip, select all the .zip files, right-click, and choose Extract to *\\\\ to unpack them all at once.\\nOn a Mac, you can either open them with Archive Utility (macOS's default program) or with The Unarchiver. Select all the .zip files and press ⌘ Cmd+O to open them all at once.\\n1-5. Place the package files in your game's Downloads folder.\\nYou may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated.\\nOpen File Explorer {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external free\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\\\\">https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\\\\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} or Finder {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\\/32px-Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":431,\\\"bigWidth\\\":32,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}.\\nNavigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window.\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"EA Games\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"The Sims 2\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled \\\"Downloads\\\". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it \\\"Downloads\\\".)\\nMove all of the IJ package files into the Downloads folder.\\n1-6. Open your game.\\nOnce you have all the necessary content, you can start your game.\\nIf you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says \\\"Enable custom content\\\", press OK, and then restart your game.\\n1-7. Create a new residential lot.\\nYour school will be built on this lot. There's no specific size you should use, but it should be big enough to accommodate the needs of the students as well as the teachers.\\nIt's possible to run schools on an owned community lot if you have Open for Business, but you may need to use a visitor controller to keep random adults and elders off the lot.\\n1-8. Construct your school.\\nEvery school is different, but you'll need classrooms and certain objects for the school to run properly.\\nBuild as many classrooms as you choose. Put some \\\"Classroom Table and Workbook\\\" or \\\"School Class Place\\\" objects in the room for desks, objects for fun or building skills (if desired), and place a classroom controller in each classroom. Put down a classroom door and point the arrow into the room.\\nPlace a School Bell and Crowd Controller anywhere on the lot.\\nPlace the Uniform Setter on the lot, if you want your students to wear uniforms.\\nPut the Institution Sign on the lot.\\nIf you want your school to be a boarding school, make at least one room with multiple beds (to serve as a dorm).\\nEnsure you have enough bathrooms, as well as a way to feed the students. (Try a buffet table to feed multiple students at once.)\\nDecorate as you see fit.\\n1-9. Place the pupil tokens on the lot.\\nThe pupil tokens allow you to register any child to your school, even if they don't live on the lot.\\nIf you're building a typical school, place the pupil tokens somewhere in the school. Don't put them in a classroom or bedroom.\\nIf you're building a boarding school, put one pupil token in the dorm for every student you want to sleep in that dorm.\\n1-10. Assign students and teachers.\\nOnce your school is built, you can assign some children or teens to the school as students, and older Sims to be the teachers. While students don't need to be on the lot to be enrolled, adult or elder Sims must be on the lot to be assigned as teachers.\\nTo assign students, click on an empty pupil token. Choose Enroll..., select \\\"Child\\\" or \\\"Teen\\\", select the last name of the family the student lives in, and click on their first name. Then, assign them to a class with Assign to class..., and choose a class number. (You can expel students by clicking their pupil token and clicking Expel [Name].)\\nTo assign a teacher to the classroom, click a room's Classroom Controller, click Set teacher to..., and then select the Sim you want to be the teacher. Teachers can only enter classrooms that they're assigned to.\\nSet a principal to run the school by clicking the School Bell and clicking Set Principal to.... Principals can enter any classroom.\\n1-11. Set the school rules and times, classroom times and subjects.\\nYour Sims won't be able to complete much schoolwork if you don't have class times or subjects set, so you'll need to set that with the Classroom Controller. You can also set rules that prevent your students from behaving in distracting ways.\\nClick the School Bell to set rules. These rules can disable some autonomous behaviors, like reading in bed or fighting, and can be used to force students to adhere to a bedtime (if you're running a boarding school).\\nClick the Classroom Controller to set class times. Select Timetable Grade work/Classroom for Class... to set what days and times the class is in session. Morning (AM) classes run from 9 AM to 12 PM, while afternoon (PM) classes run from 2 to 5 PM. (If you hit the wrong option, go to the timetable and clear the class.)\\nClick the Classroom Controller to set classes. Use Pre-set Class... to set whether the class is for all students (\\\"All Pupils\\\") or for one specific class. Choose Pre-set Subject... to designate whether the class does Grade work or Classroom work.\\n1-12. Manage your Sims' day at school.\\nOnce you start running the school, you'll be able to control all students and teachers at the school. The School Bell and Classroom Controllers will prompt the student to go where they need to go.\\nTo start school, click the School Bell and select Start school. All nonresident students and teachers will be summoned to the lot and made selectable.\\nTo start classes, click the Classroom Controller and click Start Grade work for class. The students and teachers will be summoned to the room. Students will usually stay in class, but you can direct them to leave the room if they need something. (If students or teachers wander out of class, click Call... on the Classroom Controller, then click Stray pupils or Teachers to call them back.)\\nClick the School Bell and select End school to make all non-resident students unselectable. (You may have to have a Sim perform \\\"Say Goodbye\\\" for the students to leave.)\\n2. Using Chris Hatch's Go To School Mod\\n2-1. Download the hacks required.\\nThe Go To School mod requires multiple files to function properly, which are located on Sim File Share. You'll need to download these files to use the mod:\\n\\nCJH_GlobalOverrides(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/)\\nCJH_GlobeSculpture(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/)\\nCJH_GoToSchool(BV+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/)\\nCJH_BusStopSign.package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/)\\n2-2. Place the files into your game's Downloads folder.\\nYou may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated.\\nOpen File Explorer {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external free\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\\\\">https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\\\\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} or Finder {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\\/32px-Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":431,\\\"bigWidth\\\":32,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}.\\nNavigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window.\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"EA Games\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"The Sims 2\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled \\\"Downloads\\\". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it \\\"Downloads\\\".)\\nMove all of the CJH package files into the Downloads folder.\\n2-3. Open your game.\\nOnce you have all the necessary mods, you can start your game.\\nIf you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says \\\"Enable custom content\\\", press OK, and then restart your game.\\n2-4. Create a new community lot.\\nYou don't need to use any specific lot size, but it's best to keep the lot large enough for an outdoor space and small enough so that it doesn't take too long for Sims to cross the lot.\\n2-5. Build your school on this lot.\\nThe mod requires at least two classrooms as well as playground equipment outdoors, but you can build your school any way you choose.\\nMake two classrooms. Place at least twelve student desks in each. (The mod comes with a one-tile student desk, though any type of desk will work.)\\nPlace several bookshelves in the classroom. The mod will send Sims to study skills from books, so place multiple to avoid routing issues.\\nOutside, place playground equipment (like swings or the playground tower from Apartment Life) so that Sims have a place to go for recess.\\nInclude restrooms so that Sims can use the bathroom, and fridges or vending machines so they can eat.\\nDecorate as you see fit.\\n2-6. Place at least two teacher's desks.\\nThe mod comes with an orange teacher's desk, which has a vase of flowers on the corner. Place the first desk in the classroom intended for child Sims; this room will be the elementary school classroom. (The flowers on the desk will be white.) The second desk will go in the classroom for teen Sims, and will be the high school classroom; the flowers on the desk will be orange.\\nYou can place up to three desks on the lot; the third desk will serve as the headmaster's desk, and will have red flowers. However, placing further desks will cause the headmaster to have trouble figuring out which desk is his.\\n2-7. Place a globe sculpture to zone the lot as a school.\\nOnce you've set up your school the way you want it, find the globe sculpture in Decorations > Sculptures. Click on it to zone your lot as a public school, and then place it somewhere on the lot.\\nIf you want to zone the lot as a private school, place two globes on the lot. Three globes will convert it back to public school.\\nThe mod will notify you of the school zoning when you click the globe in Buy Mode, so that you don't lose track.\\n2-8. Save and exit the lot.\\nAfter you've built and zoned the lot as a school, save your lot and exit to the neighborhood. The lot will show up as a residential lot - this is normal. Do not attempt to move in a family or change the lot zoning.\\n2-9. Send a child or teen Sim to school.\\nOnce the mod recognizes a school of the appropriate type, the school bus will no longer come to the lot; instead, a taxi will come and get all students around 8:30 AM. If only teens go to school, they'll return at 1 PM; if there are only children, or if there are children and teens, they'll return at 3 PM.\\nSims need to all go to the same school. If some Sims are in private school and the others are in public school, the bus will come instead, because the mod can't figure out where to send the Sims.\\nTo deliberately keep the taxi from coming, place the bus stop sign on the lot (either outside or on a surface indoors). This sign triggers the bus to pick up and drop off the Sims as though the mod isn't installed.\\nUse the community lot phone to send your Sim home if they miss the taxi after school.\\nIf your Sim misses the taxi to school, you can direct them to take a car to school or walk to school (if you have Apartment Life), but you won't be able to go to school with them.\\n2-10. Manage your Sim's day at school.\\nYour Sim will be prompted by the bells to go to and from class, and will autonomously study. You can choose what they study rather than letting the controller select it, or cancel out these actions and direct them to socialize with classmates or take care of their needs. If they leave the classroom, they'll be followed by a teacher (or the headmaster) and be scolded, then brought back into the classroom. Once the school day is over, the taxi will arrive to take your Sim back home.\\nIf your Sim skips out on studying, their grade will drop when they arrive home.\\nTips\\nThe Simlogical school system does not conflict with the Go To School mod. However, the mods handle grading differently; the Simlogical school system relies on assignments, whereas Go To School uses custom controllers and homework.\\nSimlogical's school tends to have less conflicts with other hacks.\\nSimlogical's school only requires Nightlife and allows for custom schools (like boarding school or homeschool), but it can be harder to manage large schools and it's difficult to control students. Go To School requires Bon Voyage or later and is limited to public and private school, but doesn't require Sims to be living on the school lot, doesn't make every Sim selectable, and controls students more effectively.\\nWarnings\\nBe cautious if two Sims in either school system are enemies. They may fight frequently, which interrupts other Sims' actions so they can stop and watch the fight.\\nMost school-related hacks, like TwoJeff's \\\"Bring Friend Dialogue\\\", will conflict with Go To School.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you want more direct control over your younger Sims' friendships or grades, or are just bored of being left out every time your Sims go to school, you can use mods to set up your own schools. This wikiHow will teach you how to build a functional school in The Sims 2 using either Simlogical mods or Chris Hatch's mods.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Using Simlogical's School System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Access Simlogical's Institutions page.\", \"描述\": \"Go to http://www.simlogical.com/sl/Sims2Pages/Sims2_Institutions.htm. There are two pages with the materials you'll need - the \\\"School Page\\\" and the page labeled \\\"Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution\\\". Open both pages.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Download the files from the School page.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need almost every file on this page to run a school. Click on the link on the page to download the file. Click on the page links to save the files to your computer's Downloads folder. You'll need:\\nijSchoolBell.zip\\nijSchoolPupilToken.zip\\nijSchoolClassroomController.zip\\nijSchoolClassroomDoorDiner.zip\\nijSchoolCrowdController.zip\\nijSchoolClassTable.zip or ijSchoolClassPlace.zip (only choose one)\\nijUniformSet_Private.zip or ijUniformSet_Grey.zip if you want the students to wear uniforms (only choose one)\\nijSchoolCollection.zip if you want the school objects in a collection file in-game (optional)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Download any desired institutional items.\", \"描述\": \"On the \\\"Objects and Hacks Useful for Any Institution Page\\\", you can download any other objects you have that are compatible with your game, but they're not strictly necessary. \\nThe Institution Sign will disable the school bus from arriving at the lot. (If you don't have the sign, you'll need to download the School Changer and the Flexi School option.)\\nThe institution doors on this page don't have any special capabilities, but are a good option if you want consistency on the school lot.\\nThe Metal Bed, Pine Bed, Canteen Servery, and all patches are designed to work with the school bell, but aren't compatible with expansions released after Open for Business.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Extract the files.\", \"描述\": \"All of the files are stored in .zip archives. Double-click on the files to open them; you'll find .package files inside.\\nIf you're on Windows, use a program like 7zip, select all the .zip files, right-click, and choose Extract to *\\\\ to unpack them all at once.\\nOn a Mac, you can either open them with Archive Utility (macOS's default program) or with The Unarchiver. Select all the .zip files and press ⌘ Cmd+O to open them all at once.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the package files in your game's Downloads folder.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated.\\nOpen File Explorer {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external free\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\\\\">https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\\\\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} or Finder {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\\/32px-Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":431,\\\"bigWidth\\\":32,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}.\\nNavigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window.\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"EA Games\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"The Sims 2\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled \\\"Downloads\\\". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it \\\"Downloads\\\".)\\nMove all of the IJ package files into the Downloads folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Open your game.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all the necessary content, you can start your game.\\nIf you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says \\\"Enable custom content\\\", press OK, and then restart your game.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a new residential lot.\", \"描述\": \"Your school will be built on this lot. There's no specific size you should use, but it should be big enough to accommodate the needs of the students as well as the teachers.\\nIt's possible to run schools on an owned community lot if you have Open for Business, but you may need to use a visitor controller to keep random adults and elders off the lot.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Construct your school.\", \"描述\": \"Every school is different, but you'll need classrooms and certain objects for the school to run properly.\\nBuild as many classrooms as you choose. Put some \\\"Classroom Table and Workbook\\\" or \\\"School Class Place\\\" objects in the room for desks, objects for fun or building skills (if desired), and place a classroom controller in each classroom. Put down a classroom door and point the arrow into the room.\\nPlace a School Bell and Crowd Controller anywhere on the lot.\\nPlace the Uniform Setter on the lot, if you want your students to wear uniforms.\\nPut the Institution Sign on the lot.\\nIf you want your school to be a boarding school, make at least one room with multiple beds (to serve as a dorm).\\nEnsure you have enough bathrooms, as well as a way to feed the students. (Try a buffet table to feed multiple students at once.)\\nDecorate as you see fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the pupil tokens on the lot.\", \"描述\": \"The pupil tokens allow you to register any child to your school, even if they don't live on the lot.\\nIf you're building a typical school, place the pupil tokens somewhere in the school. Don't put them in a classroom or bedroom.\\nIf you're building a boarding school, put one pupil token in the dorm for every student you want to sleep in that dorm.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Assign students and teachers.\", \"描述\": \"Once your school is built, you can assign some children or teens to the school as students, and older Sims to be the teachers. While students don't need to be on the lot to be enrolled, adult or elder Sims must be on the lot to be assigned as teachers.\\nTo assign students, click on an empty pupil token. Choose Enroll..., select \\\"Child\\\" or \\\"Teen\\\", select the last name of the family the student lives in, and click on their first name. Then, assign them to a class with Assign to class..., and choose a class number. (You can expel students by clicking their pupil token and clicking Expel [Name].)\\nTo assign a teacher to the classroom, click a room's Classroom Controller, click Set teacher to..., and then select the Sim you want to be the teacher. Teachers can only enter classrooms that they're assigned to.\\nSet a principal to run the school by clicking the School Bell and clicking Set Principal to.... Principals can enter any classroom.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Set the school rules and times, classroom times and subjects.\", \"描述\": \"Your Sims won't be able to complete much schoolwork if you don't have class times or subjects set, so you'll need to set that with the Classroom Controller. You can also set rules that prevent your students from behaving in distracting ways.\\nClick the School Bell to set rules. These rules can disable some autonomous behaviors, like reading in bed or fighting, and can be used to force students to adhere to a bedtime (if you're running a boarding school).\\nClick the Classroom Controller to set class times. Select Timetable Grade work/Classroom for Class... to set what days and times the class is in session. Morning (AM) classes run from 9 AM to 12 PM, while afternoon (PM) classes run from 2 to 5 PM. (If you hit the wrong option, go to the timetable and clear the class.)\\nClick the Classroom Controller to set classes. Use Pre-set Class... to set whether the class is for all students (\\\"All Pupils\\\") or for one specific class. Choose Pre-set Subject... to designate whether the class does Grade work or Classroom work.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Manage your Sims' day at school.\", \"描述\": \"Once you start running the school, you'll be able to control all students and teachers at the school. The School Bell and Classroom Controllers will prompt the student to go where they need to go.\\nTo start school, click the School Bell and select Start school. All nonresident students and teachers will be summoned to the lot and made selectable.\\nTo start classes, click the Classroom Controller and click Start Grade work for class. The students and teachers will be summoned to the room. Students will usually stay in class, but you can direct them to leave the room if they need something. (If students or teachers wander out of class, click Call... on the Classroom Controller, then click Stray pupils or Teachers to call them back.)\\nClick the School Bell and select End school to make all non-resident students unselectable. (You may have to have a Sim perform \\\"Say Goodbye\\\" for the students to leave.)\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Using Chris Hatch's Go To School Mod\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Download the hacks required.\", \"描述\": \"The Go To School mod requires multiple files to function properly, which are located on Sim File Share. You'll need to download these files to use the mod:\\n\\nCJH_GlobalOverrides(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/)\\nCJH_GlobeSculpture(Pets+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22091/)\\nCJH_GoToSchool(BV+).package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/)\\nCJH_BusStopSign.package (from https://simfileshare.net/folder/22492/)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the files into your game's Downloads folder.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to make a subfolder in your Downloads folder for the mods, so that they don't get separated.\\nOpen File Explorer {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/0\\\\/04\\\\/File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\/30px-File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":30,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>Original file from Wikipedia: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external free\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png\\\\\\\">https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/File:File_Explorer_Icon.png<\\\\/a> The file itself is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike license, but the icon itself is under copyright by Microsoft. This icon is used on wikiHow as fair use because it is being used to provide how-to instructions.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a> (screenshot)<br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"} or Finder {\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1d\\\\/Macfinder2.png\\\\/32px-Macfinder2.png\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":431,\\\"bigWidth\\\":32,\\\"bigHeight\\\":30,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>I edited this screenshot of a macOS icon.\\\\n<\\\\/p><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"http:\\\\/\\\\/en.wikipedia.org\\\\/wiki\\\\/Fair_use\\\\\\\">Fair Use<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}.\\nNavigate to Documents on the left-hand side of the window.\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"EA Games\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder titled \\\"The Sims 2\\\".\\nDouble-click the folder within your Sims 2 folder titled \\\"Downloads\\\". (If there's no Downloads folder, right-click the File Explorer or Finder window and create a new folder, and title it \\\"Downloads\\\".)\\nMove all of the CJH package files into the Downloads folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Open your game.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have all the necessary mods, you can start your game.\\nIf you haven't previously used custom content, click the box that says \\\"Enable custom content\\\", press OK, and then restart your game.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a new community lot.\", \"描述\": \"You don't need to use any specific lot size, but it's best to keep the lot large enough for an outdoor space and small enough so that it doesn't take too long for Sims to cross the lot.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build your school on this lot.\", \"描述\": \"The mod requires at least two classrooms as well as playground equipment outdoors, but you can build your school any way you choose.\\nMake two classrooms. Place at least twelve student desks in each. (The mod comes with a one-tile student desk, though any type of desk will work.)\\nPlace several bookshelves in the classroom. The mod will send Sims to study skills from books, so place multiple to avoid routing issues.\\nOutside, place playground equipment (like swings or the playground tower from Apartment Life) so that Sims have a place to go for recess.\\nInclude restrooms so that Sims can use the bathroom, and fridges or vending machines so they can eat.\\nDecorate as you see fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place at least two teacher's desks.\", \"描述\": \"The mod comes with an orange teacher's desk, which has a vase of flowers on the corner. Place the first desk in the classroom intended for child Sims; this room will be the elementary school classroom. (The flowers on the desk will be white.) The second desk will go in the classroom for teen Sims, and will be the high school classroom; the flowers on the desk will be orange.\\nYou can place up to three desks on the lot; the third desk will serve as the headmaster's desk, and will have red flowers. However, placing further desks will cause the headmaster to have trouble figuring out which desk is his.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place a globe sculpture to zone the lot as a school.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've set up your school the way you want it, find the globe sculpture in Decorations > Sculptures. Click on it to zone your lot as a public school, and then place it somewhere on the lot.\\nIf you want to zone the lot as a private school, place two globes on the lot. Three globes will convert it back to public school.\\nThe mod will notify you of the school zoning when you click the globe in Buy Mode, so that you don't lose track.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Save and exit the lot.\", \"描述\": \"After you've built and zoned the lot as a school, save your lot and exit to the neighborhood. The lot will show up as a residential lot - this is normal. Do not attempt to move in a family or change the lot zoning.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Send a child or teen Sim to school.\", \"描述\": \"Once the mod recognizes a school of the appropriate type, the school bus will no longer come to the lot; instead, a taxi will come and get all students around 8:30 AM. If only teens go to school, they'll return at 1 PM; if there are only children, or if there are children and teens, they'll return at 3 PM.\\nSims need to all go to the same school. If some Sims are in private school and the others are in public school, the bus will come instead, because the mod can't figure out where to send the Sims.\\nTo deliberately keep the taxi from coming, place the bus stop sign on the lot (either outside or on a surface indoors). This sign triggers the bus to pick up and drop off the Sims as though the mod isn't installed.\\nUse the community lot phone to send your Sim home if they miss the taxi after school.\\nIf your Sim misses the taxi to school, you can direct them to take a car to school or walk to school (if you have Apartment Life), but you won't be able to go to school with them.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Manage your Sim's day at school.\", \"描述\": \"Your Sim will be prompted by the bells to go to and from class, and will autonomously study. You can choose what they study rather than letting the controller select it, or cancel out these actions and direct them to socialize with classmates or take care of their needs. If they leave the classroom, they'll be followed by a teacher (or the headmaster) and be scolded, then brought back into the classroom. Once the school day is over, the taxi will arrive to take your Sim back home.\\nIf your Sim skips out on studying, their grade will drop when they arrive home.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The Simlogical school system does not conflict with the Go To School mod. However, the mods handle grading differently; the Simlogical school system relies on assignments, whereas Go To School uses custom controllers and homework.\\n\", \"Simlogical's school tends to have less conflicts with other hacks.\\n\", \"Simlogical's school only requires Nightlife and allows for custom schools (like boarding school or homeschool), but it can be harder to manage large schools and it's difficult to control students. Go To School requires Bon Voyage or later and is limited to public and private school, but doesn't require Sims to be living on the school lot, doesn't make every Sim selectable, and controls students more effectively.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be cautious if two Sims in either school system are enemies. They may fight frequently, which interrupts other Sims' actions so they can stop and watch the fight.\\n\", \"Most school-related hacks, like TwoJeff's \\\"Bring Friend Dialogue\\\", will conflict with Go To School.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,354
How to Build a Gable Roof
1. Framing the Gable Ends 1-1. Nail 2 boards onto your walls as top plates. Use 8-penny nails to attach the first 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board to the wall studs. Nail the first boards on top of your wall where you plan to build your roof. When you nail in the second boards, offset the seams of the upper and lower layers by at least 24 in (61 cm). Top plates cannot be less than 2 in (5.1 cm) thick. The top plates need to be at least as wide as your studs. If your studs are wider than 4 in (10 cm), use matching-sized boards as your top plates. 1-2. Add ceiling joists every 24 in (61 cm) on your top plates. Ceiling joists span between parallel walls for added structural support. Measure 24 in (61 cm) from the ends of one of your top plate and mark each measurement with a pencil. Use construction nails to attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) to the top plates so they’re on center with your measurements. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside of the top plates. Make your measurements along both walls to ensure your boards will line up. On center means the middle of each joist will be on your measurement. This creates even spacing between your boards. 1-3. Determine the pitch you want for your roof. Roof pitch or slope is measured in a vertical to horizontal ratio. Most gable roofs have a slope between 3–12 in (7.6–30.5 cm) vertical rise for every 12 in (30 cm) horizontally. Steeper roofs require more materials to build. 1-4. Cut your rafters to fit your slope. After determining your slope, find the length of your rafters using the Pythagorean Theorem. Hold a framing square so the measurements of your slope line up along the top of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Make a line with your pencil so you know the angle you need to cut using a handsaw or circular saw. Make all of your rafters at the same time so they’re ready to use. If you want an overhang, add extra length to one side of your rafter. 1-5. Make a seat cut on the end of your rafter so it lays flat on your top plate. Measure about ⁄8 inch (22 mm) from the end of your rafter using your framing square. Line up your framing square again to make a triangle with the mark. Cut the small triangle out with a hand saw or circular saw. If you added an overhang, make your seat cut where your rafter would have ended without one. 1-6. Add vertical supports to the outer walls using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Have a friend help you hold your rafter so the seat cut sits flat in the corner. Measure from the highest point of the rafter to the bottom of your top plate to determine how long you need to make your supports. Cut a support and line it up with the edge of the rafter. Use construction nails to secure it to the outside of the top plates. Place another vertical support 2 in (5.1 cm) apart from the first. Build supports on each gabled side of your roof. 1-7. Clamp the rafters onto the vertical supports so the edges are flush. Use hand clamps to secure the rafters to each support so they hold in place. Make sure the seat cut lays flush with the top plates. 1-8. Attach the rafters to your top plates using hurricane clips. Place the hurricane clips so one side is flush with the rafter and the bottom is flush with the top plates. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) nails through the holes in the hurricane clips to secure them in place. Use 2 hurricane clips for each of your 4 end rafters. A hurricane clip is a slightly misleading term, because it doesn’t really clip onto anything. Typically, it is a metal strap that gives you a strong connection between the roof system and the walls. To make this connection even stronger, you can use a double hurricane clip instead of a single one. Hurricane clips can be purchased at your local hardware store. You can also toenail the wood by driving the nail in at an angle through the rafter into the top plates. 2. Adding a Ridge Board and Rafters 2-1. Use a straight 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) board for your ridge board. Purchase the straightest board that you can find that spans the entire length of your roof. If you can’t find one board that’s long enough, use multiple. Make sure the seams between boards meet between a set of rafters. The ridge board will form the peak at the top of your roof. 2-2. Secure the end rafters to the ridge board using 8-penny nails. Line up the top of the ridge board between the supports with the tops of the rafters. Make sure the ridge board sits level so your roof is straight. Use your hammer and nail the rafter in at an angle from the opposite side. Use 3 nails per rafter so they are completely secured. Repeat the process for every other end rafter. Have a friend help support the ridge board while you’re nailing it in place. 2-3. Put rafters in the center of your roof to support the ridge board. Find the ceiling joists closest to the middle of your structure. Attach your rafter to one side of the ceiling joist using construction nails, then hammer nails from the ridge board into the rafter. Repeat the process on the other side so the rafters line up with one another. The center rafters help distribute the weight of the ridge board so it doesn’t slouch or bend. 2-4. Fill in the rest of your rafters on each ceiling joist. Use construction nails to attach the rest of the rafters to the joists and ridge board. Continually check with a level to make sure your roof is straight. Stay consistent with which side of the ceiling joist your attach your rafters. If you don’t, your roof won’t be supported as well. 3. Installing Shingles 3-1. Put roof sheathing on top of your roof. Use ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood to cover the entire surface of your roof. Place a piece of the plywood on the bottom corner of your roof, making sure the edges are on a rafter beam. Use construction nails 6 in (15 cm) apart to secure the plywood around the outer perimeter and along each support. Offset the seams between the plywood by 24 in (61 cm). Never get on top of your roof if you don’t feel comfortable working on it. Hire a professional instead. 3-2. Cover the sheathing in a layer of felt paper. Use 30 lb (14 kg) felt paper to help protect the wood from condensation. Lay the paper flat across the roof’s surface and pound in a construction nail every 24 in (61 cm). When you need to add another piece of paper, overlap the edges by 2 in (5.1 cm). Felt paper can be purchased at your local home repair or construction store. 3-3. Secure your shingles starting from the bottom. Line your shingles up with the bottom of your roof. Use 3 nails per shingle sheet to secure them to the roof. Work your way up towards the peak of your roof. Make sure the seams between shingles never line up so you have the best protection against water and condensation. If a full shingle sheet doesn’t fit on the end of one of your rows, use a utility knife to cut it to the correct size. 3-4. Place cap shingles on the peak of your roof. Cut the individual shingles from your sheet and place them over the peak of your roof. Attach them to the ridge board using construction nails. Make sure to overlap the shingles by 5 in (13 cm) so they’re watertight. Warnings If you don’t feel comfortable climbing on your roof, hire a professional to do the work for you. Contact a professional contractor or carpenter if you want to make sure everything is done correctly. Check to see if you need a building permit before working on any home improvement.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Framing the Gable Ends\\n1-1. Nail 2 boards onto your walls as top plates.\\nUse 8-penny nails to attach the first 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board to the wall studs. Nail the first boards on top of your wall where you plan to build your roof. When you nail in the second boards, offset the seams of the upper and lower layers by at least 24 in (61 cm). \\nTop plates cannot be less than 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.\\nThe top plates need to be at least as wide as your studs. If your studs are wider than 4 in (10 cm), use matching-sized boards as your top plates.\\n1-2. Add ceiling joists every 24 in (61 cm) on your top plates.\\nCeiling joists span between parallel walls for added structural support. Measure 24 in (61 cm) from the ends of one of your top plate and mark each measurement with a pencil. Use construction nails to attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) to the top plates so they’re on center with your measurements. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside of the top plates.\\nMake your measurements along both walls to ensure your boards will line up.\\nOn center means the middle of each joist will be on your measurement. This creates even spacing between your boards.\\n1-3. Determine the pitch you want for your roof.\\nRoof pitch or slope is measured in a vertical to horizontal ratio. Most gable roofs have a slope between 3–12 in (7.6–30.5 cm) vertical rise for every 12 in (30 cm) horizontally.\\nSteeper roofs require more materials to build.\\n1-4. Cut your rafters to fit your slope.\\nAfter determining your slope, find the length of your rafters using the Pythagorean Theorem. Hold a framing square so the measurements of your slope line up along the top of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Make a line with your pencil so you know the angle you need to cut using a handsaw or circular saw.\\nMake all of your rafters at the same time so they’re ready to use.\\nIf you want an overhang, add extra length to one side of your rafter.\\n1-5. Make a seat cut on the end of your rafter so it lays flat on your top plate.\\nMeasure about ⁄8 inch (22 mm) from the end of your rafter using your framing square. Line up your framing square again to make a triangle with the mark. Cut the small triangle out with a hand saw or circular saw.\\nIf you added an overhang, make your seat cut where your rafter would have ended without one.\\n1-6. Add vertical supports to the outer walls using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\\nHave a friend help you hold your rafter so the seat cut sits flat in the corner. Measure from the highest point of the rafter to the bottom of your top plate to determine how long you need to make your supports. Cut a support and line it up with the edge of the rafter. Use construction nails to secure it to the outside of the top plates. Place another vertical support 2 in (5.1 cm) apart from the first.\\nBuild supports on each gabled side of your roof.\\n1-7. Clamp the rafters onto the vertical supports so the edges are flush.\\nUse hand clamps to secure the rafters to each support so they hold in place. Make sure the seat cut lays flush with the top plates.\\n1-8. Attach the rafters to your top plates using hurricane clips.\\nPlace the hurricane clips so one side is flush with the rafter and the bottom is flush with the top plates. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) nails through the holes in the hurricane clips to secure them in place. Use 2 hurricane clips for each of your 4 end rafters.\\nA hurricane clip is a slightly misleading term, because it doesn’t really clip onto anything. Typically, it is a metal strap that gives you a strong connection between the roof system and the walls.\\nTo make this connection even stronger, you can use a double hurricane clip instead of a single one.\\nHurricane clips can be purchased at your local hardware store.\\nYou can also toenail the wood by driving the nail in at an angle through the rafter into the top plates.\\n2. Adding a Ridge Board and Rafters\\n2-1. Use a straight 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) board for your ridge board.\\nPurchase the straightest board that you can find that spans the entire length of your roof. If you can’t find one board that’s long enough, use multiple. Make sure the seams between boards meet between a set of rafters. The ridge board will form the peak at the top of your roof.\\n2-2. Secure the end rafters to the ridge board using 8-penny nails.\\nLine up the top of the ridge board between the supports with the tops of the rafters. Make sure the ridge board sits level so your roof is straight. Use your hammer and nail the rafter in at an angle from the opposite side. Use 3 nails per rafter so they are completely secured. Repeat the process for every other end rafter.\\nHave a friend help support the ridge board while you’re nailing it in place.\\n2-3. Put rafters in the center of your roof to support the ridge board.\\nFind the ceiling joists closest to the middle of your structure. Attach your rafter to one side of the ceiling joist using construction nails, then hammer nails from the ridge board into the rafter. Repeat the process on the other side so the rafters line up with one another.\\nThe center rafters help distribute the weight of the ridge board so it doesn’t slouch or bend.\\n2-4. Fill in the rest of your rafters on each ceiling joist.\\nUse construction nails to attach the rest of the rafters to the joists and ridge board. Continually check with a level to make sure your roof is straight.\\nStay consistent with which side of the ceiling joist your attach your rafters. If you don’t, your roof won’t be supported as well.\\n3. Installing Shingles\\n3-1. Put roof sheathing on top of your roof.\\nUse ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood to cover the entire surface of your roof. Place a piece of the plywood on the bottom corner of your roof, making sure the edges are on a rafter beam. Use construction nails 6 in (15 cm) apart to secure the plywood around the outer perimeter and along each support.\\nOffset the seams between the plywood by 24 in (61 cm).\\nNever get on top of your roof if you don’t feel comfortable working on it. Hire a professional instead.\\n3-2. Cover the sheathing in a layer of felt paper.\\nUse 30 lb (14 kg) felt paper to help protect the wood from condensation. Lay the paper flat across the roof’s surface and pound in a construction nail every 24 in (61 cm). When you need to add another piece of paper, overlap the edges by 2 in (5.1 cm).\\nFelt paper can be purchased at your local home repair or construction store.\\n3-3. Secure your shingles starting from the bottom.\\nLine your shingles up with the bottom of your roof. Use 3 nails per shingle sheet to secure them to the roof. Work your way up towards the peak of your roof. Make sure the seams between shingles never line up so you have the best protection against water and condensation.\\nIf a full shingle sheet doesn’t fit on the end of one of your rows, use a utility knife to cut it to the correct size.\\n3-4. Place cap shingles on the peak of your roof.\\nCut the individual shingles from your sheet and place them over the peak of your roof. Attach them to the ridge board using construction nails. Make sure to overlap the shingles by 5 in (13 cm) so they’re watertight.\\nWarnings\\nIf you don’t feel comfortable climbing on your roof, hire a professional to do the work for you.\\nContact a professional contractor or carpenter if you want to make sure everything is done correctly.\\nCheck to see if you need a building permit before working on any home improvement.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"The gable roof is one of the most popular roof designs due to its attractive symmetrical shape, efficiency at shedding water, and option for attic space. Building a gabled roof requires basic carpentry tools and skills, but as long as you make precise cuts and measurements, you’ll be able to make a roof for any simple structure.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Framing the Gable Ends\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Nail 2 boards onto your walls as top plates.\", \"描述\": \"Use 8-penny nails to attach the first 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board to the wall studs. Nail the first boards on top of your wall where you plan to build your roof. When you nail in the second boards, offset the seams of the upper and lower layers by at least 24 in (61 cm). \\nTop plates cannot be less than 2 in (5.1 cm) thick.\\nThe top plates need to be at least as wide as your studs. If your studs are wider than 4 in (10 cm), use matching-sized boards as your top plates.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add ceiling joists every 24 in (61 cm) on your top plates.\", \"描述\": \"Ceiling joists span between parallel walls for added structural support. Measure 24 in (61 cm) from the ends of one of your top plate and mark each measurement with a pencil. Use construction nails to attach 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) to the top plates so they’re on center with your measurements. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside of the top plates.\\nMake your measurements along both walls to ensure your boards will line up.\\nOn center means the middle of each joist will be on your measurement. This creates even spacing between your boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Determine the pitch you want for your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Roof pitch or slope is measured in a vertical to horizontal ratio. Most gable roofs have a slope between 3–12 in (7.6–30.5 cm) vertical rise for every 12 in (30 cm) horizontally.\\nSteeper roofs require more materials to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut your rafters to fit your slope.\", \"描述\": \"After determining your slope, find the length of your rafters using the Pythagorean Theorem. Hold a framing square so the measurements of your slope line up along the top of your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Make a line with your pencil so you know the angle you need to cut using a handsaw or circular saw.\\nMake all of your rafters at the same time so they’re ready to use.\\nIf you want an overhang, add extra length to one side of your rafter.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make a seat cut on the end of your rafter so it lays flat on your top plate.\", \"描述\": \"Measure about ⁄8 inch (22 mm) from the end of your rafter using your framing square. Line up your framing square again to make a triangle with the mark. Cut the small triangle out with a hand saw or circular saw.\\nIf you added an overhang, make your seat cut where your rafter would have ended without one.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add vertical supports to the outer walls using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards.\", \"描述\": \"Have a friend help you hold your rafter so the seat cut sits flat in the corner. Measure from the highest point of the rafter to the bottom of your top plate to determine how long you need to make your supports. Cut a support and line it up with the edge of the rafter. Use construction nails to secure it to the outside of the top plates. Place another vertical support 2 in (5.1 cm) apart from the first.\\nBuild supports on each gabled side of your roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Clamp the rafters onto the vertical supports so the edges are flush.\", \"描述\": \"Use hand clamps to secure the rafters to each support so they hold in place. Make sure the seat cut lays flush with the top plates.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the rafters to your top plates using hurricane clips.\", \"描述\": \"Place the hurricane clips so one side is flush with the rafter and the bottom is flush with the top plates. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) nails through the holes in the hurricane clips to secure them in place. Use 2 hurricane clips for each of your 4 end rafters.\\nA hurricane clip is a slightly misleading term, because it doesn’t really clip onto anything. Typically, it is a metal strap that gives you a strong connection between the roof system and the walls.\\nTo make this connection even stronger, you can use a double hurricane clip instead of a single one.\\nHurricane clips can be purchased at your local hardware store.\\nYou can also toenail the wood by driving the nail in at an angle through the rafter into the top plates.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding a Ridge Board and Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a straight 2 in × 6 in (5.1 cm × 15.2 cm) board for your ridge board.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase the straightest board that you can find that spans the entire length of your roof. If you can’t find one board that’s long enough, use multiple. Make sure the seams between boards meet between a set of rafters. The ridge board will form the peak at the top of your roof.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure the end rafters to the ridge board using 8-penny nails.\", \"描述\": \"Line up the top of the ridge board between the supports with the tops of the rafters. Make sure the ridge board sits level so your roof is straight. Use your hammer and nail the rafter in at an angle from the opposite side. Use 3 nails per rafter so they are completely secured. Repeat the process for every other end rafter.\\nHave a friend help support the ridge board while you’re nailing it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put rafters in the center of your roof to support the ridge board.\", \"描述\": \"Find the ceiling joists closest to the middle of your structure. Attach your rafter to one side of the ceiling joist using construction nails, then hammer nails from the ridge board into the rafter. Repeat the process on the other side so the rafters line up with one another.\\nThe center rafters help distribute the weight of the ridge board so it doesn’t slouch or bend.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill in the rest of your rafters on each ceiling joist.\", \"描述\": \"Use construction nails to attach the rest of the rafters to the joists and ridge board. Continually check with a level to make sure your roof is straight.\\nStay consistent with which side of the ceiling joist your attach your rafters. If you don’t, your roof won’t be supported as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing Shingles\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put roof sheathing on top of your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood to cover the entire surface of your roof. Place a piece of the plywood on the bottom corner of your roof, making sure the edges are on a rafter beam. Use construction nails 6 in (15 cm) apart to secure the plywood around the outer perimeter and along each support.\\nOffset the seams between the plywood by 24 in (61 cm).\\nNever get on top of your roof if you don’t feel comfortable working on it. Hire a professional instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cover the sheathing in a layer of felt paper.\", \"描述\": \"Use 30 lb (14 kg) felt paper to help protect the wood from condensation. Lay the paper flat across the roof’s surface and pound in a construction nail every 24 in (61 cm). When you need to add another piece of paper, overlap the edges by 2 in (5.1 cm).\\nFelt paper can be purchased at your local home repair or construction store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure your shingles starting from the bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Line your shingles up with the bottom of your roof. Use 3 nails per shingle sheet to secure them to the roof. Work your way up towards the peak of your roof. Make sure the seams between shingles never line up so you have the best protection against water and condensation.\\nIf a full shingle sheet doesn’t fit on the end of one of your rows, use a utility knife to cut it to the correct size.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place cap shingles on the peak of your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the individual shingles from your sheet and place them over the peak of your roof. Attach them to the ridge board using construction nails. Make sure to overlap the shingles by 5 in (13 cm) so they’re watertight.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"If you don’t feel comfortable climbing on your roof, hire a professional to do the work for you.\\n\", \"Contact a professional contractor or carpenter if you want to make sure everything is done correctly.\\n\", \"Check to see if you need a building permit before working on any home improvement.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,355
How to Build a Gallows
1. Inverted 'L' Gallows 1-1. Use a stout piece of lumber, at least 3m long, preferably between 4m and 5m. Make sure that it is at least 20cm (8") wide, and is fashioned as a square or rectangle. 1-2. Attach another piece of lumber of a similar type but 1-2m long to the top of the first piece of lumber to make an 'L' shape. 1-3. (Optional) - Attach 4 pieces of lumber to the end of the long piece of lumber opposite to the 1-2m long piece. The 4 pieces can be as long as you want, and attached in the form of a cross, with one on each side of the square diameter of the pole. This is for stability, and can be used as a stand when braces are attached, or as an anchor when buried deep enough. 1-4. Add a brace to the 'tail' of the 'L' (the 1-2 m long part) at about 45º to connect to the main pole. This helps brace it and prevent it from breaking. 1-5. Notch a grove onto 'tail' of the 'L' part, about half a metre from the end. This is where you will loop the noose. 1-6. Dig a hole deep enough and stand up your gallows. The optional 'cross-bar anchor' while help greatly in providing support for it. Operation - Your victim stands on a stool/chair, and the noose is looped around the neck. When the time is ready, the stool is kicked away. 2. Hanging Frame (full-frame-and-stand-with-trapdoor design) 2-1. Make the floor out of planks. This floor should be around 3m by 2m for a one person gallows. 2-2. Make the floor elevated 2-3m by making legs and braces for it, so it resembles a stand or a large table. Add a staircase for convenience, or you can keep it as is and use a ladder every time. 3. The Hanging Frame 3-1. Take two 3m long posts/poles that are fashioned into square diameters (similar to that as described in the inverted 'L' design) and attach a third pole 2m long across the top of them both. You can add two braces from the center of the third post attaching to the other two posts at a 45º angle. 3-2. Cut a notch into the top of the third post for your noose. 4. Putting them Together 4-1. Attach the posts to the top of the stand. If you use longer 5m posts, you can run the posts through the floor of the stand to the ground. Make sure that they are still attached though. 4-2. On the floor of the stand, directly underneath the cut notch, cut out a 1m by 1m square. This will be your trapdoor. 5. Adding the Trapdoor Attach hinges to the trapdoor, and attach a ratchet and lever to it and the floor of the stand so it can be lever released. Operation - The victim stands on the trapdoor of the stand, and the correct length of rope is run around the notch, tied into a noose, and looped over the persons neck. When the time is right, the lever is pulled, releasing the ratchet, and the persons weight causes the trapdoor to fall. Tips You can also make a Double Trapdoor design for the Hanging Frame Gallows. When trying to ensure neck snap page in hanging, refer to the drop height chart for hangings. Culprits WeightDrop 14 stone (196 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 0in 13.5 stone (189 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 2in 13 stone (182 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 4in 12.5 stone (175 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 6in 12 stone (168 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 8in 11.5 stone (161 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 10in 11 stone (154 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 0in 10.5 stone (147 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 2in 10 stone (140 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 4in 9.5 stone (133 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 6in 9 stone (126 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 8in 8.5 stone (119 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 10in 8 stone (112 lbs)10 feet (3.0 m) 0in Warnings Gallows may be considered weapons in some jurisdictions. You may be convicted of murder if you hang someone. If you aid someone attempt suicide by building them the gallows for that purpose, you may be convicted of assisting suicide or murder. Think carefully. People in your neighbourhood may ostracize you and think you as strange for building a gallows. If you can, work with someone when standing up the Inverted 'L' gallows, or attaching the 'frame' to the Hanging frame gallows. This is because it will be very heavy, and if working alone, if it topples on you, you may have no one to call for help, especially if you are trapped underneath. Please only use the gallows for hangings if you are a licensed executioner in a country/jurisdiction where hangings are legal, and with proper permission also; otherwise you risk prosecution. Vigilante Justice via gallows is illegal in most if not all countries. Never tie a rope around your neck or someone else's unless you are able to do so safely. If you are considering suicide, call or text the National Suicide and Crisis Lifeline if you are in the United States at 988.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:37", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Inverted 'L' Gallows\\n1-1. Use a stout piece of lumber, at least 3m long, preferably between 4m and 5m.\\nMake sure that it is at least 20cm (8\\\") wide, and is fashioned as a square or rectangle.\\n1-2. Attach another piece of lumber of a similar type but 1-2m long to the top of the first piece of lumber to make an 'L' shape.\\n\\n1-3. (Optional) - Attach 4 pieces of lumber to the end of the long piece of lumber opposite to the 1-2m long piece.\\nThe 4 pieces can be as long as you want, and attached in the form of a cross, with one on each side of the square diameter of the pole. This is for stability, and can be used as a stand when braces are attached, or as an anchor when buried deep enough.\\n1-4. Add a brace to the 'tail' of the 'L' (the 1-2 m long part) at about 45º to connect to the main pole.\\nThis helps brace it and prevent it from breaking.\\n1-5. Notch a grove onto 'tail' of the 'L' part, about half a metre from the end.\\nThis is where you will loop the noose.\\n1-6. Dig a hole deep enough and stand up your gallows.\\nThe optional 'cross-bar anchor' while help greatly in providing support for it.\\nOperation - Your victim stands on a stool/chair, and the noose is looped around the neck. When the time is ready, the stool is kicked away.\\n2. Hanging Frame (full-frame-and-stand-with-trapdoor design)\\n2-1. Make the floor out of planks.\\nThis floor should be around 3m by 2m for a one person gallows.\\n2-2. Make the floor elevated 2-3m by making legs and braces for it, so it resembles a stand or a large table.\\nAdd a staircase for convenience, or you can keep it as is and use a ladder every time.\\n3. The Hanging Frame\\n3-1. Take two 3m long posts/poles that are fashioned into square diameters (similar to that as described in the inverted 'L' design) and attach a third pole 2m long across the top of them both.\\nYou can add two braces from the center of the third post attaching to the other two posts at a 45º angle.\\n3-2. Cut a notch into the top of the third post for your noose.\\n\\n4. Putting them Together\\n4-1. Attach the posts to the top of the stand.\\nIf you use longer 5m posts, you can run the posts through the floor of the stand to the ground. Make sure that they are still attached though.\\n4-2. On the floor of the stand, directly underneath the cut notch, cut out a 1m by 1m square.\\nThis will be your trapdoor.\\n5. Adding the Trapdoor\\nAttach hinges to the trapdoor, and attach a ratchet and lever to it and the floor of the stand so it can be lever released.\\nOperation - The victim stands on the trapdoor of the stand, and the correct length of rope is run around the notch, tied into a noose, and looped over the persons neck. When the time is right, the lever is pulled, releasing the ratchet, and the persons weight causes the trapdoor to fall.\\nTips\\nYou can also make a Double Trapdoor design for the Hanging Frame Gallows.\\nWhen trying to ensure neck snap page in hanging, refer to the drop height chart for hangings.\\nCulprits WeightDrop\\n14 stone (196 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 0in\\n13.5 stone (189 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 2in\\n13 stone (182 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 4in\\n12.5 stone (175 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 6in\\n12 stone (168 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 8in\\n11.5 stone (161 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 10in\\n11 stone (154 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 0in\\n10.5 stone (147 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 2in\\n10 stone (140 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 4in\\n9.5 stone (133 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 6in\\n9 stone (126 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 8in\\n8.5 stone (119 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 10in\\n8 stone (112 lbs)10 feet (3.0 m) 0in\\nWarnings\\nGallows may be considered weapons in some jurisdictions.\\nYou may be convicted of murder if you hang someone.\\nIf you aid someone attempt suicide by building them the gallows for that purpose, you may be convicted of assisting suicide or murder. Think carefully.\\nPeople in your neighbourhood may ostracize you and think you as strange for building a gallows.\\nIf you can, work with someone when standing up the Inverted 'L' gallows, or attaching the 'frame' to the Hanging frame gallows. This is because it will be very heavy, and if working alone, if it topples on you, you may have no one to call for help, especially if you are trapped underneath.\\nPlease only use the gallows for hangings if you are a licensed executioner in a country/jurisdiction where hangings are legal, and with proper permission also; otherwise you risk prosecution.\\nVigilante Justice via gallows is illegal in most if not all countries.\\nNever tie a rope around your neck or someone else's unless you are able to do so safely.\\nIf you are considering suicide, call or text the National Suicide and Crisis Lifeline if you are in the United States at 988.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Gallows are tools made out of wood to resemble a frame, typically used for hangings and executions. There are several types of gallows, from a simple inverted 'L' shape, to the more complex full-frame-and-stand-with-trapdoor designs.\\n\\nGallows making is actually a craftsman art, and ever since gallows became less popular, the number of people who know how to make quality gallows has been waning. Collecting gallows is also a form of art collecting, primarily based more in Europe.\\n\\nIf you are considering suicide, call or text the National Suicide and Crisis Lifeline at 988.\\n\\nNote: Building and or operating a gallows may be illegal in your jurisdiction. Know the law before proceeding.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Inverted 'L' Gallows\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use a stout piece of lumber, at least 3m long, preferably between 4m and 5m.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that it is at least 20cm (8\\\") wide, and is fashioned as a square or rectangle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach another piece of lumber of a similar type but 1-2m long to the top of the first piece of lumber to make an 'L' shape.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"(Optional) - Attach 4 pieces of lumber to the end of the long piece of lumber opposite to the 1-2m long piece.\", \"描述\": \"The 4 pieces can be as long as you want, and attached in the form of a cross, with one on each side of the square diameter of the pole. This is for stability, and can be used as a stand when braces are attached, or as an anchor when buried deep enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add a brace to the 'tail' of the 'L' (the 1-2 m long part) at about 45º to connect to the main pole.\", \"描述\": \"This helps brace it and prevent it from breaking.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Notch a grove onto 'tail' of the 'L' part, about half a metre from the end.\", \"描述\": \"This is where you will loop the noose.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dig a hole deep enough and stand up your gallows.\", \"描述\": \"The optional 'cross-bar anchor' while help greatly in providing support for it.\\nOperation - Your victim stands on a stool/chair, and the noose is looped around the neck. When the time is ready, the stool is kicked away.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hanging Frame (full-frame-and-stand-with-trapdoor design)\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make the floor out of planks.\", \"描述\": \"This floor should be around 3m by 2m for a one person gallows.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the floor elevated 2-3m by making legs and braces for it, so it resembles a stand or a large table.\", \"描述\": \"Add a staircase for convenience, or you can keep it as is and use a ladder every time.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"The Hanging Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take two 3m long posts/poles that are fashioned into square diameters (similar to that as described in the inverted 'L' design) and attach a third pole 2m long across the top of them both.\", \"描述\": \"You can add two braces from the center of the third post attaching to the other two posts at a 45º angle.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a notch into the top of the third post for your noose.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Putting them Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach the posts to the top of the stand.\", \"描述\": \"If you use longer 5m posts, you can run the posts through the floor of the stand to the ground. Make sure that they are still attached though.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"On the floor of the stand, directly underneath the cut notch, cut out a 1m by 1m square.\", \"描述\": \"This will be your trapdoor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Adding the Trapdoor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach hinges to the trapdoor, and attach a ratchet and lever to it and the floor of the stand so it can be lever released.\", \"描述\": \"Operation - The victim stands on the trapdoor of the stand, and the correct length of rope is run around the notch, tied into a noose, and looped over the persons neck. When the time is right, the lever is pulled, releasing the ratchet, and the persons weight causes the trapdoor to fall.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also make a Double Trapdoor design for the Hanging Frame Gallows.\\n\", \"When trying to ensure neck snap page in hanging, refer to the drop height chart for hangings.\\n\", \"Culprits WeightDrop\\n14 stone (196 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 0in\\n13.5 stone (189 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 2in\\n13 stone (182 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 4in\\n12.5 stone (175 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 6in\\n12 stone (168 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 8in\\n11.5 stone (161 lbs)8 feet (2.4 m) 10in\\n11 stone (154 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 0in\\n10.5 stone (147 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 2in\\n10 stone (140 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 4in\\n9.5 stone (133 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 6in\\n9 stone (126 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 8in\\n8.5 stone (119 lbs)9 feet (2.7 m) 10in\\n8 stone (112 lbs)10 feet (3.0 m) 0in\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Gallows may be considered weapons in some jurisdictions.\\n\", \"You may be convicted of murder if you hang someone.\\n\", \"If you aid someone attempt suicide by building them the gallows for that purpose, you may be convicted of assisting suicide or murder. Think carefully.\\n\", \"People in your neighbourhood may ostracize you and think you as strange for building a gallows.\\n\", \"If you can, work with someone when standing up the Inverted 'L' gallows, or attaching the 'frame' to the Hanging frame gallows. This is because it will be very heavy, and if working alone, if it topples on you, you may have no one to call for help, especially if you are trapped underneath.\\n\", \"Please only use the gallows for hangings if you are a licensed executioner in a country/jurisdiction where hangings are legal, and with proper permission also; otherwise you risk prosecution.\\n\", \"Vigilante Justice via gallows is illegal in most if not all countries.\\n\", \"Never tie a rope around your neck or someone else's unless you are able to do so safely.\\n\", \"If you are considering suicide, call or text the National Suicide and Crisis Lifeline if you are in the United States at 988.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,356
How to Build a Gambrel Roof
1. Cutting the Rafter Pieces 1-1. Buy 24 2x4 boards for the rafters. If your shed is 10 feet (3.0 m) wide, each full rafter piece will be constructed of 4 2x4 boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Count the number of wall studs you have. You’ll need a full rafter piece for each wall stud in your barn or shed. If you have 6 wall studs, you’ll need 6 full rafters. Since you need 4 boards per rafter, it means you’ll need a total of 24 boards. You can also get 8 feet (2.4 m)-long boards and cut them in half. It may be helpful to buy extra boards in case you make a mistake. 1-2. Mark the end of the boards on a 22.5-degree angle. Line the pivot point on a speed square to the corner of each board at a 22.5-degree angle and mark it with a pencil. Both ends of each board should be marked this way. You'll cut along the lines that you make. 1-3. Cut the boards with a miter or circular saw. Line the saw blade up against the line that you made. Press the trigger on the saw and lower it to cut off the ends of the boards at an angle. Once you’re done, the board’s ends should sit fit flush against each other. If you have a miter saw, you can set the cutting angle on the saw itself without having to use a speed square. 2. Assembling the Rafters 2-1. Lay a piece of 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) plywood on the floor. This piece of plywood represents the dimensions for your roof and will serve as an assembly site for your rafters. If you have a 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide shed, your roof will be 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide and 5 ft (1.5 m)-tall. Lay down the piece of plywood in an area with ample space. 2-2. Assemble the rafters onto the piece of plywood. Place the rafter pieces on the piece of plywood and line them up so that the ends of each piece runs flush with the piece next to it. This is how the rafters will look when they are on top of your shed. 2-3. Screw wood blocks on both sides of each side of the boards. Position 3 in × 6 in (76 mm × 152 mm) wood blocks on both sides of each rafter piece. The wood blocks will help keep the rafter pieces in place as you connect them. Use an electric screwdriver to drive screws into each end of the wood blocks and directly into the plywood below. You can use the wood from any excess wood that you cut so far. 2-4. Trace and cut OSB or plywood joints to connect the rafter pieces. Place a 6 in × 12 in (15 cm × 30 cm) rectangular piece of OSB or ⁄4 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood under the joint of an assembled rafter. Trace the top of the joint so the angle is at the same degrees as where the rafters connect. Then, use a saw to cut the lines that you drew. These pieces are known as the gussets. 2-5. Use the gusset as a template and create the rest of the joints. Lay the gusset on top of the rafter joint to make sure that it fits and the top edges run flush. If it does, you can use it as a template to cut the rest of the gussets for your rafters. You must make a gusset for each side of every joint in your rafters. You’ll need a total of 8 gussets per completed rafter. If you have 6 rafters, you’ll need 48 gussets for the entire project. 2-6. Nail the gussets into the rafter boards. Line the gusset back on top of the rafter joint. Nail 6d nails every 3 inches (7.6 cm) around the edge of the gusset directly into the rafter board. Continue attaching the gussets to all of the joints in the rafter. Then, flip the rafter over and nail the gussets onto the other sides of the joints. Use around 8-10 nails to secure the gusset to the rafter. 2-7. Construct full rafter pieces for each wall stud on your shed or barn. Repeat the construction process for the remainder of the rafters for your roof. Use the plywood staging area to construct each of the rafters. Remember that you’ll need a rafter to fit on each wall stud in your shed. 3. Raising the Roof 3-1. Hoist the rafters up on top of the shed or barn roof. Get help from 2-3 friends to help during this stage. Put ladders on both sides of the barn or shed and have one person inside of the shed. Hoist the rafters on top of the shed and line it up so that it runs flush with the wall stud. 3-2. Screw the rafter into the wall. Position a metal joint plate between the rafter and top of the wall. Drive 2 3-16d nails through the board of the rafter on an angle so that it goes through the rafter board and into the top of the shed wall. Go to the other side of the rafter board and nail it in with a metal joint as well. You should have a joint plate on each side of the rafter boards. 3-3. Install all of the rafters for the roof. Install a rafter for every wall stud in your barn or shed. Take your time on each rafter and make sure that the edges of the rafter run plumb before moving onto the next rafter. You can install braces with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on each side of the rafter if you’re having trouble keeping them in place. 3-4. Measure and cut OSB or plywood for the roof sheeting. Measure 4 total pieces of .5 inches (1.3 cm) thick OSB or plywood. These pieces should be half the length of your structure and the width of each piece of your rafter. So for example, if your barn is 10 by 12 feet (3.0 m × 3.7 m), each piece of OSB should be 6 by 3.83 feet (1.83 m × 1.17 m). 3-5. Nail OSB or plywood onto the rafters to enclose the roof. Start with the top corners of the roof first. Place the OSB or plywood on the top portion of the rafters and make sure that the edges run flush. Nail along the edges of the OSB or plywood, driving the nails into the rafters every 8 inches (20 cm) with 8d common nails. Repeat this process until your roof is completely enclosed. If the edges don’t run flush, you’ll have to recut your OSB or plywood. You can also use OSB to cover the front and back portion of the roof.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Cutting the Rafter Pieces\\n1-1. Buy 24 2x4 boards for the rafters.\\nIf your shed is 10 feet (3.0 m) wide, each full rafter piece will be constructed of 4 2x4 boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Count the number of wall studs you have. You’ll need a full rafter piece for each wall stud in your barn or shed.\\nIf you have 6 wall studs, you’ll need 6 full rafters. Since you need 4 boards per rafter, it means you’ll need a total of 24 boards.\\nYou can also get 8 feet (2.4 m)-long boards and cut them in half.\\nIt may be helpful to buy extra boards in case you make a mistake.\\n1-2. Mark the end of the boards on a 22.5-degree angle.\\nLine the pivot point on a speed square to the corner of each board at a 22.5-degree angle and mark it with a pencil. Both ends of each board should be marked this way. You'll cut along the lines that you make.\\n1-3. Cut the boards with a miter or circular saw.\\nLine the saw blade up against the line that you made. Press the trigger on the saw and lower it to cut off the ends of the boards at an angle. Once you’re done, the board’s ends should sit fit flush against each other.\\nIf you have a miter saw, you can set the cutting angle on the saw itself without having to use a speed square.\\n2. Assembling the Rafters\\n2-1. Lay a piece of 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) plywood on the floor.\\nThis piece of plywood represents the dimensions for your roof and will serve as an assembly site for your rafters. If you have a 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide shed, your roof will be 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide and 5 ft (1.5 m)-tall.\\nLay down the piece of plywood in an area with ample space.\\n2-2. Assemble the rafters onto the piece of plywood.\\nPlace the rafter pieces on the piece of plywood and line them up so that the ends of each piece runs flush with the piece next to it. This is how the rafters will look when they are on top of your shed.\\n2-3. Screw wood blocks on both sides of each side of the boards.\\nPosition 3 in × 6 in (76 mm × 152 mm) wood blocks on both sides of each rafter piece. The wood blocks will help keep the rafter pieces in place as you connect them. Use an electric screwdriver to drive screws into each end of the wood blocks and directly into the plywood below.\\nYou can use the wood from any excess wood that you cut so far.\\n2-4. Trace and cut OSB or plywood joints to connect the rafter pieces.\\nPlace a 6 in × 12 in (15 cm × 30 cm) rectangular piece of OSB or ⁄4 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood under the joint of an assembled rafter. Trace the top of the joint so the angle is at the same degrees as where the rafters connect. Then, use a saw to cut the lines that you drew.\\nThese pieces are known as the gussets.\\n2-5. Use the gusset as a template and create the rest of the joints.\\nLay the gusset on top of the rafter joint to make sure that it fits and the top edges run flush. If it does, you can use it as a template to cut the rest of the gussets for your rafters. You must make a gusset for each side of every joint in your rafters.\\nYou’ll need a total of 8 gussets per completed rafter.\\nIf you have 6 rafters, you’ll need 48 gussets for the entire project.\\n2-6. Nail the gussets into the rafter boards.\\nLine the gusset back on top of the rafter joint. Nail 6d nails every 3 inches (7.6 cm) around the edge of the gusset directly into the rafter board. Continue attaching the gussets to all of the joints in the rafter. Then, flip the rafter over and nail the gussets onto the other sides of the joints.\\nUse around 8-10 nails to secure the gusset to the rafter.\\n2-7. Construct full rafter pieces for each wall stud on your shed or barn.\\nRepeat the construction process for the remainder of the rafters for your roof. Use the plywood staging area to construct each of the rafters. Remember that you’ll need a rafter to fit on each wall stud in your shed.\\n3. Raising the Roof\\n3-1. Hoist the rafters up on top of the shed or barn roof.\\nGet help from 2-3 friends to help during this stage. Put ladders on both sides of the barn or shed and have one person inside of the shed. Hoist the rafters on top of the shed and line it up so that it runs flush with the wall stud.\\n3-2. Screw the rafter into the wall.\\nPosition a metal joint plate between the rafter and top of the wall. Drive 2 3-16d nails through the board of the rafter on an angle so that it goes through the rafter board and into the top of the shed wall. Go to the other side of the rafter board and nail it in with a metal joint as well.\\nYou should have a joint plate on each side of the rafter boards.\\n3-3. Install all of the rafters for the roof.\\nInstall a rafter for every wall stud in your barn or shed. Take your time on each rafter and make sure that the edges of the rafter run plumb before moving onto the next rafter.\\nYou can install braces with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on each side of the rafter if you’re having trouble keeping them in place.\\n3-4. Measure and cut OSB or plywood for the roof sheeting.\\nMeasure 4 total pieces of .5 inches (1.3 cm) thick OSB or plywood. These pieces should be half the length of your structure and the width of each piece of your rafter.\\nSo for example, if your barn is 10 by 12 feet (3.0 m × 3.7 m), each piece of OSB should be 6 by 3.83 feet (1.83 m × 1.17 m).\\n3-5. Nail OSB or plywood onto the rafters to enclose the roof.\\nStart with the top corners of the roof first. Place the OSB or plywood on the top portion of the rafters and make sure that the edges run flush. Nail along the edges of the OSB or plywood, driving the nails into the rafters every 8 inches (20 cm) with 8d common nails. Repeat this process until your roof is completely enclosed.\\nIf the edges don’t run flush, you’ll have to recut your OSB or plywood.\\nYou can also use OSB to cover the front and back portion of the roof.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A gambrel roof is a popular roof style on many contemporary barns and sheds. Gambrel roofs are symmetrical, with two slopes on each side of the roof. If you plan on building and installing your own gambrel roof, you’ll have to draw out plans first to determine the proper dimensions. Once you have the plans, you can cut and construct the rafters before installing them on your structure.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cutting the Rafter Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy 24 2x4 boards for the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"If your shed is 10 feet (3.0 m) wide, each full rafter piece will be constructed of 4 2x4 boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Count the number of wall studs you have. You’ll need a full rafter piece for each wall stud in your barn or shed.\\nIf you have 6 wall studs, you’ll need 6 full rafters. Since you need 4 boards per rafter, it means you’ll need a total of 24 boards.\\nYou can also get 8 feet (2.4 m)-long boards and cut them in half.\\nIt may be helpful to buy extra boards in case you make a mistake.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark the end of the boards on a 22.5-degree angle.\", \"描述\": \"Line the pivot point on a speed square to the corner of each board at a 22.5-degree angle and mark it with a pencil. Both ends of each board should be marked this way. You'll cut along the lines that you make.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the boards with a miter or circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"Line the saw blade up against the line that you made. Press the trigger on the saw and lower it to cut off the ends of the boards at an angle. Once you’re done, the board’s ends should sit fit flush against each other.\\nIf you have a miter saw, you can set the cutting angle on the saw itself without having to use a speed square.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay a piece of 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) plywood on the floor.\", \"描述\": \"This piece of plywood represents the dimensions for your roof and will serve as an assembly site for your rafters. If you have a 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide shed, your roof will be 10 ft (3.0 m)-wide and 5 ft (1.5 m)-tall.\\nLay down the piece of plywood in an area with ample space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble the rafters onto the piece of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Place the rafter pieces on the piece of plywood and line them up so that the ends of each piece runs flush with the piece next to it. This is how the rafters will look when they are on top of your shed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw wood blocks on both sides of each side of the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Position 3 in × 6 in (76 mm × 152 mm) wood blocks on both sides of each rafter piece. The wood blocks will help keep the rafter pieces in place as you connect them. Use an electric screwdriver to drive screws into each end of the wood blocks and directly into the plywood below.\\nYou can use the wood from any excess wood that you cut so far.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Trace and cut OSB or plywood joints to connect the rafter pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Place a 6 in × 12 in (15 cm × 30 cm) rectangular piece of OSB or ⁄4 in (1.9 cm)-thick plywood under the joint of an assembled rafter. Trace the top of the joint so the angle is at the same degrees as where the rafters connect. Then, use a saw to cut the lines that you drew.\\nThese pieces are known as the gussets.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the gusset as a template and create the rest of the joints.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the gusset on top of the rafter joint to make sure that it fits and the top edges run flush. If it does, you can use it as a template to cut the rest of the gussets for your rafters. You must make a gusset for each side of every joint in your rafters.\\nYou’ll need a total of 8 gussets per completed rafter.\\nIf you have 6 rafters, you’ll need 48 gussets for the entire project.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Nail the gussets into the rafter boards.\", \"描述\": \"Line the gusset back on top of the rafter joint. Nail 6d nails every 3 inches (7.6 cm) around the edge of the gusset directly into the rafter board. Continue attaching the gussets to all of the joints in the rafter. Then, flip the rafter over and nail the gussets onto the other sides of the joints.\\nUse around 8-10 nails to secure the gusset to the rafter.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Construct full rafter pieces for each wall stud on your shed or barn.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat the construction process for the remainder of the rafters for your roof. Use the plywood staging area to construct each of the rafters. Remember that you’ll need a rafter to fit on each wall stud in your shed.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Raising the Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Hoist the rafters up on top of the shed or barn roof.\", \"描述\": \"Get help from 2-3 friends to help during this stage. Put ladders on both sides of the barn or shed and have one person inside of the shed. Hoist the rafters on top of the shed and line it up so that it runs flush with the wall stud.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the rafter into the wall.\", \"描述\": \"Position a metal joint plate between the rafter and top of the wall. Drive 2 3-16d nails through the board of the rafter on an angle so that it goes through the rafter board and into the top of the shed wall. Go to the other side of the rafter board and nail it in with a metal joint as well.\\nYou should have a joint plate on each side of the rafter boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install all of the rafters for the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Install a rafter for every wall stud in your barn or shed. Take your time on each rafter and make sure that the edges of the rafter run plumb before moving onto the next rafter.\\nYou can install braces with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards on each side of the rafter if you’re having trouble keeping them in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure and cut OSB or plywood for the roof sheeting.\", \"描述\": \"Measure 4 total pieces of .5 inches (1.3 cm) thick OSB or plywood. These pieces should be half the length of your structure and the width of each piece of your rafter.\\nSo for example, if your barn is 10 by 12 feet (3.0 m × 3.7 m), each piece of OSB should be 6 by 3.83 feet (1.83 m × 1.17 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail OSB or plywood onto the rafters to enclose the roof.\", \"描述\": \"Start with the top corners of the roof first. Place the OSB or plywood on the top portion of the rafters and make sure that the edges run flush. Nail along the edges of the OSB or plywood, driving the nails into the rafters every 8 inches (20 cm) with 8d common nails. Repeat this process until your roof is completely enclosed.\\nIf the edges don’t run flush, you’ll have to recut your OSB or plywood.\\nYou can also use OSB to cover the front and back portion of the roof.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,357
How to Build a Gaming Desk
1. Customizing Your Desk Materials 1-1. Measure to see how much space you will need for your gaming setup. Place your gaming gear on a table or the floor the way you would like to set it up. Then, measure the area that the gear takes up. Measure the height of the desktop tower as well if you want to place it under the desk. Record these measurements to use when deciding how big to make your desk surface. Gaming desks are generally larger than a typical desk because the gear can take up so much space, so be sure of your required desk dimensions before you look for materials. 1-2. Choose a door that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm). Doors make excellent gaming surfaces, are already painted, and they can be less expensive than getting a piece of wood in these dimensions. Look for a door with a flat surface at your local hardware store. You can also shop second-hand stores and yard sales to find a used door, which may be cheaper than buying a new one. You can also use a tabletop or a piece of plywood that measures at least that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm). You could also nail together pieces of wood from an old barn, pallets, and other types of reclaimed wood to cut the cost of this project. If you don’t want to paint the door, opt for one in the desired color. Black and white are good options. Also, make sure that the door is free from decorative molding. It needs to be completely flat. 1-3. Purchase 5 adjustable desk legs from a furniture store or website. These are widely available and they can make assembling your desk a cinch. Purchase legs that you can screw into the underside of the desk. Select the desk leg color and style that will look best with your desk surface. Another popular option is to use standard desk legs. However, these are at a fixed height and are not adjustable, so you’ll have to determine your ideal desk height first to ensure that you purchase the correct size. You could also use copper pipes or reclaimed pedestals for a unique look. 1-4. Get additional wood pieces if you want to add a shelf. To create a shelf for displaying your computer screen or screens, you’ll need one 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) and two 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) wood pieces. You can also opt for a shorter piece for the shelf surface if desired. Measure to see how much space you will need for your screens. Visit a hardware store and ask them to cut the pieces to these sizes for you. Make sure to choose sturdy, hard wood for this feature since the shelf will be holding your computer screens. If the wood is flimsy, it will be unstable and your screens will be more likely to fall off of it. 1-5. Select a paint or varnish if you want to change the color of the desk. If you’re using raw lumber to build your desk, you may want to paint or varnish it to change its appearance. However, if the materials you’re using are already painted, then you can skip this. White is a popular color for gaming desks, especially if you want to add LED lights to the underside of it. White will reflect the color of the LED lights and make them more noticeable. However, you can paint your desk any color you like. 1-6. Get LED lights if you want to add lighting to the underside of the desk. You can attach LED lights to the underside of the desk and shelf (if adding) to enhance the look of it. The lights will make it seem like your desk is glowing. Select 1 or more strings of LED lights in the desired color. LED lights are available in craft supply stores, or you can purchase ones meant specifically for gaming desks from an online retailer. 2. Determining the Ideal Desk Height 2-1. Adjust your desk chair to a comfortable level. Sit in your gaming desk chair to find what’s comfortable for you. Try to ensure that your feet are flat on the floor and your knees are bent at 90-degree angles. This is the ideal height for your chair. However, if you prefer a slightly different height, adjust the chair accordingly. 2-2. Measure from the floor to the top of the armrests to find the desktop height. Use a measuring tape to find the distance from the top of the chair’s armrests to the floor. Record this measurement. This is your ideal desk height. For example, if the distance is 28 in (71 cm), then this is your ideal desk height. 2-3. Subtract the thickness of the desk surface from the height to find the desk leg height. Check the width of your desk surface by measuring it. Then, subtract this measurement from the total desk height. This will give you the ideal height for the desk legs. Adjust the legs to this height before you attach them to the desk. For example, if the desk surface width is 1.5 in (3.8 cm), then subtract 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the total desk height. 3. Assembling the Desk 3-1. Sand and stain the door if you want to change or enhance its color. Use spray paint and apply it using a back and forth sweeping motion while holding the can about 8 to 12 in (20 to 30 cm) from the door. Continue to paint until the entire surface is covered. Then, allow the paint to dry completely before turning over the door and doing the other side. You may need to apply 2-3 coats in total to get the desired coverage. Make sure that you protect your work surface, such as by placing the door on a tarp or layers of newspaper. Also, wear old clothes or protect your clothing with a painter’s jumpsuit. Paint the door in a well-ventilated area, such as outside or in an open garage. Wear a mask or respirator to protect yourself from paint fumes. 3-2. Attach the legs to the corners of the door or desk surface. Position the legs about 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) in from each of the corners, and position the fifth leg in the center of the door, near the back of the desk. This will provide additional support for your computer screens. The desk legs should come with hardware to attach the legs to the bottom of the desk. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for how to attach the legs. 3-3. Assemble the shelf pieces, if you're using them. Screw the 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) pieces to the ends of the 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) piece. Use a drill to insert 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long wood screws through both layers of the wood. Position them about 4 in (10 cm) apart along the edge of the shelf. Use 3 wood screws per side to attach each of the riser pieces to the ends of the shelf piece. 3-4. Attach the shelf to the main surface of the desk. You can use wood glue to secure the shelf to the desk’s surface. Apply a generous amount of glue to the bottom edges of the risers and position the shelf on the desk where you want it to go. Position the shelf near the back of the desk. You can either center it or place it slightly off to one side. Allow the wood glue to dry for at least 24 hours before using the desk. Since the door is so thick, it’s easier to use wood glue than to try to drive screws up through the bottom to attach the shelf. 3-5. Add LED lights under the desk with electrical tape for optional flair. Cut the tape into 1.5 in (3.8 cm) strips and use the strips to secure the wire of the LED lights to the bottom of the desk. Position the lights about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the edges of the desk underneath it so that the light will be visible, but the wire will be hidden. It’s best to use electrical tape so that the lights will be easy to remove if they burn out or if you want to change the color. Tips You can slide a small filing cabinet or dresser with drawers under the desk on one side if you want to have somewhere to store items, such as flash drives, batteries, etc. Make sure to purchase a filing cabinet or dresser that will easily fit under the desk and that won’t get in your way while you are gaming.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Customizing Your Desk Materials\\n1-1. Measure to see how much space you will need for your gaming setup.\\nPlace your gaming gear on a table or the floor the way you would like to set it up. Then, measure the area that the gear takes up. Measure the height of the desktop tower as well if you want to place it under the desk. Record these measurements to use when deciding how big to make your desk surface.\\nGaming desks are generally larger than a typical desk because the gear can take up so much space, so be sure of your required desk dimensions before you look for materials.\\n1-2. Choose a door that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm).\\nDoors make excellent gaming surfaces, are already painted, and they can be less expensive than getting a piece of wood in these dimensions. Look for a door with a flat surface at your local hardware store. You can also shop second-hand stores and yard sales to find a used door, which may be cheaper than buying a new one.\\nYou can also use a tabletop or a piece of plywood that measures at least that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm). You could also nail together pieces of wood from an old barn, pallets, and other types of reclaimed wood to cut the cost of this project.\\nIf you don’t want to paint the door, opt for one in the desired color. Black and white are good options. Also, make sure that the door is free from decorative molding. It needs to be completely flat.\\n1-3. Purchase 5 adjustable desk legs from a furniture store or website.\\nThese are widely available and they can make assembling your desk a cinch. Purchase legs that you can screw into the underside of the desk. Select the desk leg color and style that will look best with your desk surface.\\nAnother popular option is to use standard desk legs. However, these are at a fixed height and are not adjustable, so you’ll have to determine your ideal desk height first to ensure that you purchase the correct size.\\nYou could also use copper pipes or reclaimed pedestals for a unique look.\\n1-4. Get additional wood pieces if you want to add a shelf.\\nTo create a shelf for displaying your computer screen or screens, you’ll need one 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) and two 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) wood pieces. You can also opt for a shorter piece for the shelf surface if desired. Measure to see how much space you will need for your screens. Visit a hardware store and ask them to cut the pieces to these sizes for you.\\nMake sure to choose sturdy, hard wood for this feature since the shelf will be holding your computer screens. If the wood is flimsy, it will be unstable and your screens will be more likely to fall off of it.\\n1-5. Select a paint or varnish if you want to change the color of the desk.\\nIf you’re using raw lumber to build your desk, you may want to paint or varnish it to change its appearance. However, if the materials you’re using are already painted, then you can skip this.\\nWhite is a popular color for gaming desks, especially if you want to add LED lights to the underside of it. White will reflect the color of the LED lights and make them more noticeable. However, you can paint your desk any color you like.\\n1-6. Get LED lights if you want to add lighting to the underside of the desk.\\nYou can attach LED lights to the underside of the desk and shelf (if adding) to enhance the look of it. The lights will make it seem like your desk is glowing. Select 1 or more strings of LED lights in the desired color.\\nLED lights are available in craft supply stores, or you can purchase ones meant specifically for gaming desks from an online retailer.\\n2. Determining the Ideal Desk Height\\n2-1. Adjust your desk chair to a comfortable level.\\nSit in your gaming desk chair to find what’s comfortable for you. Try to ensure that your feet are flat on the floor and your knees are bent at 90-degree angles. This is the ideal height for your chair. However, if you prefer a slightly different height, adjust the chair accordingly.\\n2-2. Measure from the floor to the top of the armrests to find the desktop height.\\nUse a measuring tape to find the distance from the top of the chair’s armrests to the floor. Record this measurement. This is your ideal desk height.\\nFor example, if the distance is 28 in (71 cm), then this is your ideal desk height.\\n2-3. Subtract the thickness of the desk surface from the height to find the desk leg height.\\nCheck the width of your desk surface by measuring it. Then, subtract this measurement from the total desk height. This will give you the ideal height for the desk legs. Adjust the legs to this height before you attach them to the desk.\\nFor example, if the desk surface width is 1.5 in (3.8 cm), then subtract 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the total desk height.\\n3. Assembling the Desk\\n3-1. Sand and stain the door if you want to change or enhance its color.\\nUse spray paint and apply it using a back and forth sweeping motion while holding the can about 8 to 12 in (20 to 30 cm) from the door. Continue to paint until the entire surface is covered. Then, allow the paint to dry completely before turning over the door and doing the other side. You may need to apply 2-3 coats in total to get the desired coverage.\\nMake sure that you protect your work surface, such as by placing the door on a tarp or layers of newspaper. Also, wear old clothes or protect your clothing with a painter’s jumpsuit.\\nPaint the door in a well-ventilated area, such as outside or in an open garage. Wear a mask or respirator to protect yourself from paint fumes.\\n3-2. Attach the legs to the corners of the door or desk surface.\\nPosition the legs about 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) in from each of the corners, and position the fifth leg in the center of the door, near the back of the desk. This will provide additional support for your computer screens. \\nThe desk legs should come with hardware to attach the legs to the bottom of the desk. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for how to attach the legs.\\n3-3. Assemble the shelf pieces, if you're using them.\\nScrew the 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) pieces to the ends of the 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) piece. Use a drill to insert 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long wood screws through both layers of the wood. Position them about 4 in (10 cm) apart along the edge of the shelf. Use 3 wood screws per side to attach each of the riser pieces to the ends of the shelf piece.\\n3-4. Attach the shelf to the main surface of the desk.\\nYou can use wood glue to secure the shelf to the desk’s surface. Apply a generous amount of glue to the bottom edges of the risers and position the shelf on the desk where you want it to go. Position the shelf near the back of the desk. You can either center it or place it slightly off to one side. Allow the wood glue to dry for at least 24 hours before using the desk.\\nSince the door is so thick, it’s easier to use wood glue than to try to drive screws up through the bottom to attach the shelf.\\n3-5. Add LED lights under the desk with electrical tape for optional flair.\\nCut the tape into 1.5 in (3.8 cm) strips and use the strips to secure the wire of the LED lights to the bottom of the desk. Position the lights about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the edges of the desk underneath it so that the light will be visible, but the wire will be hidden.\\nIt’s best to use electrical tape so that the lights will be easy to remove if they burn out or if you want to change the color.\\nTips\\nYou can slide a small filing cabinet or dresser with drawers under the desk on one side if you want to have somewhere to store items, such as flash drives, batteries, etc. Make sure to purchase a filing cabinet or dresser that will easily fit under the desk and that won’t get in your way while you are gaming.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a custom gaming desk is easier than you might think and it can save you some serious money! Many gamers have found that simple, inexpensive materials, such as a door and adjustable desk legs, are all they need to create an amazing gaming desk. If you’ve been eyeing custom-made gaming desks with envy, choose your own materials and assemble a desk of your own. Go with an ultra-simple design if you want something purely functional, or add extra features if you want something more aesthetically pleasing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Customizing Your Desk Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure to see how much space you will need for your gaming setup.\", \"描述\": \"Place your gaming gear on a table or the floor the way you would like to set it up. Then, measure the area that the gear takes up. Measure the height of the desktop tower as well if you want to place it under the desk. Record these measurements to use when deciding how big to make your desk surface.\\nGaming desks are generally larger than a typical desk because the gear can take up so much space, so be sure of your required desk dimensions before you look for materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a door that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Doors make excellent gaming surfaces, are already painted, and they can be less expensive than getting a piece of wood in these dimensions. Look for a door with a flat surface at your local hardware store. You can also shop second-hand stores and yard sales to find a used door, which may be cheaper than buying a new one.\\nYou can also use a tabletop or a piece of plywood that measures at least that measures at least 26 by 80 in (66 by 203 cm). You could also nail together pieces of wood from an old barn, pallets, and other types of reclaimed wood to cut the cost of this project.\\nIf you don’t want to paint the door, opt for one in the desired color. Black and white are good options. Also, make sure that the door is free from decorative molding. It needs to be completely flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Purchase 5 adjustable desk legs from a furniture store or website.\", \"描述\": \"These are widely available and they can make assembling your desk a cinch. Purchase legs that you can screw into the underside of the desk. Select the desk leg color and style that will look best with your desk surface.\\nAnother popular option is to use standard desk legs. However, these are at a fixed height and are not adjustable, so you’ll have to determine your ideal desk height first to ensure that you purchase the correct size.\\nYou could also use copper pipes or reclaimed pedestals for a unique look.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get additional wood pieces if you want to add a shelf.\", \"描述\": \"To create a shelf for displaying your computer screen or screens, you’ll need one 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) and two 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) wood pieces. You can also opt for a shorter piece for the shelf surface if desired. Measure to see how much space you will need for your screens. Visit a hardware store and ask them to cut the pieces to these sizes for you.\\nMake sure to choose sturdy, hard wood for this feature since the shelf will be holding your computer screens. If the wood is flimsy, it will be unstable and your screens will be more likely to fall off of it.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Select a paint or varnish if you want to change the color of the desk.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re using raw lumber to build your desk, you may want to paint or varnish it to change its appearance. However, if the materials you’re using are already painted, then you can skip this.\\nWhite is a popular color for gaming desks, especially if you want to add LED lights to the underside of it. White will reflect the color of the LED lights and make them more noticeable. However, you can paint your desk any color you like.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Get LED lights if you want to add lighting to the underside of the desk.\", \"描述\": \"You can attach LED lights to the underside of the desk and shelf (if adding) to enhance the look of it. The lights will make it seem like your desk is glowing. Select 1 or more strings of LED lights in the desired color.\\nLED lights are available in craft supply stores, or you can purchase ones meant specifically for gaming desks from an online retailer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determining the Ideal Desk Height\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Adjust your desk chair to a comfortable level.\", \"描述\": \"Sit in your gaming desk chair to find what’s comfortable for you. Try to ensure that your feet are flat on the floor and your knees are bent at 90-degree angles. This is the ideal height for your chair. However, if you prefer a slightly different height, adjust the chair accordingly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure from the floor to the top of the armrests to find the desktop height.\", \"描述\": \"Use a measuring tape to find the distance from the top of the chair’s armrests to the floor. Record this measurement. This is your ideal desk height.\\nFor example, if the distance is 28 in (71 cm), then this is your ideal desk height.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Subtract the thickness of the desk surface from the height to find the desk leg height.\", \"描述\": \"Check the width of your desk surface by measuring it. Then, subtract this measurement from the total desk height. This will give you the ideal height for the desk legs. Adjust the legs to this height before you attach them to the desk.\\nFor example, if the desk surface width is 1.5 in (3.8 cm), then subtract 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the total desk height.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Desk\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand and stain the door if you want to change or enhance its color.\", \"描述\": \"Use spray paint and apply it using a back and forth sweeping motion while holding the can about 8 to 12 in (20 to 30 cm) from the door. Continue to paint until the entire surface is covered. Then, allow the paint to dry completely before turning over the door and doing the other side. You may need to apply 2-3 coats in total to get the desired coverage.\\nMake sure that you protect your work surface, such as by placing the door on a tarp or layers of newspaper. Also, wear old clothes or protect your clothing with a painter’s jumpsuit.\\nPaint the door in a well-ventilated area, such as outside or in an open garage. Wear a mask or respirator to protect yourself from paint fumes.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the legs to the corners of the door or desk surface.\", \"描述\": \"Position the legs about 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) in from each of the corners, and position the fifth leg in the center of the door, near the back of the desk. This will provide additional support for your computer screens. \\nThe desk legs should come with hardware to attach the legs to the bottom of the desk. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for how to attach the legs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble the shelf pieces, if you're using them.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the 4 by 12 in (10 by 30 cm) pieces to the ends of the 1 by 6 ft (0.30 by 1.83 m) piece. Use a drill to insert 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long wood screws through both layers of the wood. Position them about 4 in (10 cm) apart along the edge of the shelf. Use 3 wood screws per side to attach each of the riser pieces to the ends of the shelf piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the shelf to the main surface of the desk.\", \"描述\": \"You can use wood glue to secure the shelf to the desk’s surface. Apply a generous amount of glue to the bottom edges of the risers and position the shelf on the desk where you want it to go. Position the shelf near the back of the desk. You can either center it or place it slightly off to one side. Allow the wood glue to dry for at least 24 hours before using the desk.\\nSince the door is so thick, it’s easier to use wood glue than to try to drive screws up through the bottom to attach the shelf.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add LED lights under the desk with electrical tape for optional flair.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the tape into 1.5 in (3.8 cm) strips and use the strips to secure the wire of the LED lights to the bottom of the desk. Position the lights about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) from the edges of the desk underneath it so that the light will be visible, but the wire will be hidden.\\nIt’s best to use electrical tape so that the lights will be easy to remove if they burn out or if you want to change the color.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can slide a small filing cabinet or dresser with drawers under the desk on one side if you want to have somewhere to store items, such as flash drives, batteries, etc. Make sure to purchase a filing cabinet or dresser that will easily fit under the desk and that won’t get in your way while you are gaming.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,358
How to Build a Garage Work Bench
1. Build a Custom-Sized Workbench 1-1. Determine the dimensions of the Workbench. Measure the desired length, width, and height relative to your work space and write these dimensions down. 1-2. Find a bench top. You can use thick, wooden, butcher-block-style Workbench tops (which are quite pricey), thin, hard, wooden sheets for industrial bench tops (which are more affordable), or a few pieces of plywood stacked on top of each other. For a thick, sturdy, affordable alternative, salvage a solid-core door; check your local listings, find a rebuilding center, or even ask around at a building undergoing renovation. The most important thing to keep in mind is that the Workbench should be and . Cut the bench top to size if necessary. 1-3. Cut four legs from 4x4s. The length of each leg should be the desired height of the bench minus the thickness of the bench top. 1-4. Cut four leg braces from 2x4s. If you want the top of the Workbench to be flush with the frame underneath it (which you will be building in Steps 8 and 9), each brace should be equal to the width of the bench top minus the width of two 2x4s; however, if you'd like the frame to jut slightly out from underneath the bench top, which can be useful for storing clamps, for example, cut the braces to same length as the width of the bench top. Since 2x4s aren't actually 2 x 4 inches and can sometimes even vary in thickness, measure the (skinny) width of your 2x4s for a precise cut. 1-5. Position each top leg brace on a pair of legs. Lay down two of the 4x4s perfectly parallel to one other so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the brace. Lay one leg brace across them so that it is flush with both the sides and (what will eventually be) the tops of the legs. Repeat on the other leg pair. 1-6. Bolt each top leg brace to a pair of legs. Using a 3/8-inch (10-mm) drill bit, drill two holes clear through both the 2x4 and the 4x4. Make sure to drill the holes at a diagonal from each other (i.e. one at the top left, one at the bottom right) so that you will later be able to fit a third bolt into the space between. Moving from the 2x4 to the 4x4, slide bolts through the pre-drilled holes. Close them by sliding washers over the ends and holding them in place with nuts, which you can tighten with a wrench. When you're done, the bolt ends should stick out of the 4x4s. Repeat on the remaining leg pair. 1-7. Bolt the bottom two leg braces to the legs. Flip one of the leg pairs over and repeat the process you followed in Steps 7 and 8 with another brace; however, instead of lining the brace up with (what will eventually be) the bottoms of the legs, raise them a few inches so that they won't sit flush with the floor. When you're done, you will have a top brace at the top of one side of each leg pair and a bottom brace near the bottom of the other side of each leg pair. If you would like to build a low shelf across the bottom braces, position them accordingly ; the lower the braces, the more stable the bench will be. 1-8. Cut two top supports from 2x4s. Each support should equal the length of the bench top. 1-9. Bolt the top supports into place. Lay the leg pairs down with the top braces facing outwards (i.e. away from one another) so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the top support. Place one of the top supports across the leg pairs so that it lines up with the top braces. Pre-drill a hole through the top support and into the 4x4 on either side (making sure to drill between the existing bolts) and then bolt the support into place with coach bolts. Flip the structure over and repeat on the other side. When you're done, your four legs should be surrounded by a frame at the top. 1-10. Attach the Workbench top. Lay the piece(s) in place and pre-drill bolt holes downward through the underlying supports where necessary. Screw coach bolts into place to secure. If you have a thick bench top, consider bolting from the bottom up; this will keep the bench top smooth and bolt-free. However, only do this if the bench top is thick enough that it won't risk popping off of the bolt ends. 1-11. Attach a low shelf if desired. Simply measure the dimensions between all four legs, cut a shelf to this size from your desired material (ex. plywood), and screw into place. 1-12. Finish the bench if desired. Sand the wood smooth and apply stain, varnish, polyurethane, etc. 2. Build a Sturdy Floating Shelf to Use as a Workbench 2-1. Attach a long 2x4 (38×89 mm) horizontally to the wall studs. (If your wall is solid brick, stone, etc., this method will not help you). The length of the 2x4 will be the length of the workbench and should be sized accordingly. (In this example, we are using a 16-foot / 4.8-meter piece.) Use a spirit level to make sure that this is attached horizontally. Depending on the steel shelf brackets you have (and how far the hole is from the bend in the bracket), you may need a 2x6 (38×140 mm) instead. The top of the 2x4 strip in this example is 3 to 3.5 feet (approximately 1 meter) off the ground. If you need park a vehicle in your garage and it needs to fit underneath the shelf, account for any additional clearance required (i.e. your vehicle's hood). Use 2.5-in / 6.5 cm screws (or 3-in / 7.5-cm screws if going through drywall) to attach the 4-in (89-mm) flat face against the garage wall studs. 2-2. Attach another piece of timber of the same dimensions below the first one. The gap between the two parallel strips should be determined by the length of the steel shelf bracket. 2-3. Attach the shelf brackets to the two strips. The heavier duty the shelf bracket, the better. The top of the bracket is flush with the top surface of the upper strip. Use a plywood piece on top (a temporary shelf) and then butt the shelf bracket against it. Use 1.5-in (3.8-cm) screws to then attach the brackets. You will end up with two strips against the wall with a row of shelf brackets attached to them. The shelf brackets should be spaced approximately 2 feet (.6 meters) apart. If desired, shelf brackets can be alternated; heavy duty, lighter duty, heavy duty, etc. in order to accommodate toolbox placement and to be able to comfortably pull up a chair underneath the workbench. 2-4. Cut 3/4-in (2-cm) thick plywood into 2-ft (.6-m) wide planks. A 4x8 ft (1.2 x 2.4 m) sheet will work well for this purpose. Place one of the planks on the shelf brackets and screw the plank to the upper strip at the top/rear. Place the second plank next to (left or right of) the first one and join the two end-to-end with a 6 in (15.25cm) x 18 in (45.7 cm) piece of plywood underneath the two plank ends. 2-5. Place another strip across the top of the shelf and screw into the wall studs. 2-6. Apply a front strip along the bottom edge of the shelf. Glue and screw a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) by 3/4 in (1.9 cm) maple strip that's as long as your shelf. This strengthens the Workbench top while absorbing wear and tear. 2-7. Attach drawers to the underside of the shelf. These thin drawers will accommodate any small tools you may have. The drawers should be 2 feet (.6 meter) wide, have a depth of 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and stretch 18 in (45.7 cm) to the back. To make and attach the shelves: 1x4 ((19×89 mm) pine strips can be attached to the bottom of the shelf. The short part of the strip can be attached with glue and screws to the plywood sheet. Attach metal drawer slides to the strips. Construct drawers with a hardboard base and pine sides (1x2in or 2.5 by 5 cm). Edges hold the matching drawer slides. These drawer boxes are then slid into the pine strips that are attached to your plywood plank. Tips Adding 4x4 posts as legs to the front edge of the floating workbench will greatly increase its strength, which is important if you are going to be using it for pounding on things with a hammer. Always bring a tape measure (minimum 20 feet or 6 meters long) to the store with you when purchasing wood. Wood is commonly mixed around by the customers by accident or cut into smaller lengths and placed back on the rack. Being able to measure out your lengths while shopping can save you time in returns! Make sure you buy a hard wood(tends to have a darker colour). Warnings The US lumber industry shortens each 2x4 by half an inch on either side for various reasons (shrinkage, smoothing). A standard 2x4 will actually measure somewhere around 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Build a Custom-Sized Workbench\\n1-1. Determine the dimensions of the Workbench.\\nMeasure the desired length, width, and height relative to your work space and write these dimensions down.\\n1-2. Find a bench top.\\nYou can use thick, wooden, butcher-block-style Workbench tops (which are quite pricey), thin, hard, wooden sheets for industrial bench tops (which are more affordable), or a few pieces of plywood stacked on top of each other. For a thick, sturdy, affordable alternative, salvage a solid-core door; check your local listings, find a rebuilding center, or even ask around at a building undergoing renovation. The most important thing to keep in mind is that the Workbench should be and .\\nCut the bench top to size if necessary.\\n1-3. Cut four legs from 4x4s.\\nThe length of each leg should be the desired height of the bench minus the thickness of the bench top.\\n1-4. Cut four leg braces from 2x4s.\\nIf you want the top of the Workbench to be flush with the frame underneath it (which you will be building in Steps 8 and 9), each brace should be equal to the width of the bench top minus the width of two 2x4s; however, if you'd like the frame to jut slightly out from underneath the bench top, which can be useful for storing clamps, for example, cut the braces to same length as the width of the bench top.\\nSince 2x4s aren't actually 2 x 4 inches and can sometimes even vary in thickness, measure the (skinny) width of your 2x4s for a precise cut.\\n1-5. Position each top leg brace on a pair of legs.\\nLay down two of the 4x4s perfectly parallel to one other so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the brace. Lay one leg brace across them so that it is flush with both the sides and (what will eventually be) the tops of the legs. Repeat on the other leg pair.\\n1-6. Bolt each top leg brace to a pair of legs.\\nUsing a 3/8-inch (10-mm) drill bit, drill two holes clear through both the 2x4 and the 4x4. Make sure to drill the holes at a diagonal from each other (i.e. one at the top left, one at the bottom right) so that you will later be able to fit a third bolt into the space between. Moving from the 2x4 to the 4x4, slide bolts through the pre-drilled holes. Close them by sliding washers over the ends and holding them in place with nuts, which you can tighten with a wrench. When you're done, the bolt ends should stick out of the 4x4s. Repeat on the remaining leg pair.\\n1-7. Bolt the bottom two leg braces to the legs.\\nFlip one of the leg pairs over and repeat the process you followed in Steps 7 and 8 with another brace; however, instead of lining the brace up with (what will eventually be) the bottoms of the legs, raise them a few inches so that they won't sit flush with the floor. When you're done, you will have a top brace at the top of one side of each leg pair and a bottom brace near the bottom of the other side of each leg pair.\\nIf you would like to build a low shelf across the bottom braces, position them accordingly ; the lower the braces, the more stable the bench will be.\\n1-8. Cut two top supports from 2x4s.\\nEach support should equal the length of the bench top.\\n1-9. Bolt the top supports into place.\\nLay the leg pairs down with the top braces facing outwards (i.e. away from one another) so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the top support. Place one of the top supports across the leg pairs so that it lines up with the top braces. Pre-drill a hole through the top support and into the 4x4 on either side (making sure to drill between the existing bolts) and then bolt the support into place with coach bolts. Flip the structure over and repeat on the other side. When you're done, your four legs should be surrounded by a frame at the top.\\n1-10. Attach the Workbench top.\\nLay the piece(s) in place and pre-drill bolt holes downward through the underlying supports where necessary. Screw coach bolts into place to secure.\\nIf you have a thick bench top, consider bolting from the bottom up; this will keep the bench top smooth and bolt-free. However, only do this if the bench top is thick enough that it won't risk popping off of the bolt ends.\\n1-11. Attach a low shelf if desired.\\nSimply measure the dimensions between all four legs, cut a shelf to this size from your desired material (ex. plywood), and screw into place.\\n1-12. Finish the bench if desired.\\nSand the wood smooth and apply stain, varnish, polyurethane, etc.\\n2. Build a Sturdy Floating Shelf to Use as a Workbench\\n2-1. Attach a long 2x4 (38×89 mm) horizontally to the wall studs.\\n(If your wall is solid brick, stone, etc., this method will not help you). The length of the 2x4 will be the length of the workbench and should be sized accordingly. (In this example, we are using a 16-foot / 4.8-meter piece.) Use a spirit level to make sure that this is attached horizontally.\\nDepending on the steel shelf brackets you have (and how far the hole is from the bend in the bracket), you may need a 2x6 (38×140 mm) instead.\\nThe top of the 2x4 strip in this example is 3 to 3.5 feet (approximately 1 meter) off the ground. If you need park a vehicle in your garage and it needs to fit underneath the shelf, account for any additional clearance required (i.e. your vehicle's hood).\\nUse 2.5-in / 6.5 cm screws (or 3-in / 7.5-cm screws if going through drywall) to attach the 4-in (89-mm) flat face against the garage wall studs.\\n2-2. Attach another piece of timber of the same dimensions below the first one.\\nThe gap between the two parallel strips should be determined by the length of the steel shelf bracket.\\n2-3. Attach the shelf brackets to the two strips.\\nThe heavier duty the shelf bracket, the better. The top of the bracket is flush with the top surface of the upper strip. Use a plywood piece on top (a temporary shelf) and then butt the shelf bracket against it. Use 1.5-in (3.8-cm) screws to then attach the brackets. You will end up with two strips against the wall with a row of shelf brackets attached to them. The shelf brackets should be spaced approximately 2 feet (.6 meters) apart.\\nIf desired, shelf brackets can be alternated; heavy duty, lighter duty, heavy duty, etc. in order to accommodate toolbox placement and to be able to comfortably pull up a chair underneath the workbench.\\n2-4. Cut 3/4-in (2-cm) thick plywood into 2-ft (.6-m) wide planks.\\nA 4x8 ft (1.2 x 2.4 m) sheet will work well for this purpose. Place one of the planks on the shelf brackets and screw the plank to the upper strip at the top/rear. Place the second plank next to (left or right of) the first one and join the two end-to-end with a 6 in (15.25cm) x 18 in (45.7 cm) piece of plywood underneath the two plank ends.\\n2-5. Place another strip across the top of the shelf and screw into the wall studs.\\n\\n2-6. Apply a front strip along the bottom edge of the shelf.\\nGlue and screw a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) by 3/4 in (1.9 cm) maple strip that's as long as your shelf. This strengthens the Workbench top while absorbing wear and tear.\\n2-7. Attach drawers to the underside of the shelf.\\nThese thin drawers will accommodate any small tools you may have. The drawers should be 2 feet (.6 meter) wide, have a depth of 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and stretch 18 in (45.7 cm) to the back. To make and attach the shelves:\\n1x4 ((19×89 mm) pine strips can be attached to the bottom of the shelf. The short part of the strip can be attached with glue and screws to the plywood sheet.\\nAttach metal drawer slides to the strips.\\nConstruct drawers with a hardboard base and pine sides (1x2in or 2.5 by 5 cm). Edges hold the matching drawer slides. These drawer boxes are then slid into the pine strips that are attached to your plywood plank.\\nTips\\nAdding 4x4 posts as legs to the front edge of the floating workbench will greatly increase its strength, which is important if you are going to be using it for pounding on things with a hammer.\\nAlways bring a tape measure (minimum 20 feet or 6 meters long) to the store with you when purchasing wood. Wood is commonly mixed around by the customers by accident or cut into smaller lengths and placed back on the rack. Being able to measure out your lengths while shopping can save you time in returns!\\nMake sure you buy a hard wood(tends to have a darker colour).\\nWarnings\\nThe US lumber industry shortens each 2x4 by half an inch on either side for various reasons (shrinkage, smoothing). A standard 2x4 will actually measure somewhere around 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A Workbench is the most important tool in any shop. To make either a traditional Workbench or a floating-shelf bench that maximizes space, follow these instructions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a Custom-Sized Workbench\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine the dimensions of the Workbench.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the desired length, width, and height relative to your work space and write these dimensions down.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a bench top.\", \"描述\": \"You can use thick, wooden, butcher-block-style Workbench tops (which are quite pricey), thin, hard, wooden sheets for industrial bench tops (which are more affordable), or a few pieces of plywood stacked on top of each other. For a thick, sturdy, affordable alternative, salvage a solid-core door; check your local listings, find a rebuilding center, or even ask around at a building undergoing renovation. The most important thing to keep in mind is that the Workbench should be and .\\nCut the bench top to size if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut four legs from 4x4s.\", \"描述\": \"The length of each leg should be the desired height of the bench minus the thickness of the bench top.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut four leg braces from 2x4s.\", \"描述\": \"If you want the top of the Workbench to be flush with the frame underneath it (which you will be building in Steps 8 and 9), each brace should be equal to the width of the bench top minus the width of two 2x4s; however, if you'd like the frame to jut slightly out from underneath the bench top, which can be useful for storing clamps, for example, cut the braces to same length as the width of the bench top.\\nSince 2x4s aren't actually 2 x 4 inches and can sometimes even vary in thickness, measure the (skinny) width of your 2x4s for a precise cut.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Position each top leg brace on a pair of legs.\", \"描述\": \"Lay down two of the 4x4s perfectly parallel to one other so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the brace. Lay one leg brace across them so that it is flush with both the sides and (what will eventually be) the tops of the legs. Repeat on the other leg pair.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Bolt each top leg brace to a pair of legs.\", \"描述\": \"Using a 3/8-inch (10-mm) drill bit, drill two holes clear through both the 2x4 and the 4x4. Make sure to drill the holes at a diagonal from each other (i.e. one at the top left, one at the bottom right) so that you will later be able to fit a third bolt into the space between. Moving from the 2x4 to the 4x4, slide bolts through the pre-drilled holes. Close them by sliding washers over the ends and holding them in place with nuts, which you can tighten with a wrench. When you're done, the bolt ends should stick out of the 4x4s. Repeat on the remaining leg pair.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Bolt the bottom two leg braces to the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Flip one of the leg pairs over and repeat the process you followed in Steps 7 and 8 with another brace; however, instead of lining the brace up with (what will eventually be) the bottoms of the legs, raise them a few inches so that they won't sit flush with the floor. When you're done, you will have a top brace at the top of one side of each leg pair and a bottom brace near the bottom of the other side of each leg pair.\\nIf you would like to build a low shelf across the bottom braces, position them accordingly ; the lower the braces, the more stable the bench will be.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut two top supports from 2x4s.\", \"描述\": \"Each support should equal the length of the bench top.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Bolt the top supports into place.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the leg pairs down with the top braces facing outwards (i.e. away from one another) so that the distance from the outside left edge to the outside right edge equals the length of the top support. Place one of the top supports across the leg pairs so that it lines up with the top braces. Pre-drill a hole through the top support and into the 4x4 on either side (making sure to drill between the existing bolts) and then bolt the support into place with coach bolts. Flip the structure over and repeat on the other side. When you're done, your four legs should be surrounded by a frame at the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Attach the Workbench top.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the piece(s) in place and pre-drill bolt holes downward through the underlying supports where necessary. Screw coach bolts into place to secure.\\nIf you have a thick bench top, consider bolting from the bottom up; this will keep the bench top smooth and bolt-free. However, only do this if the bench top is thick enough that it won't risk popping off of the bolt ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Attach a low shelf if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Simply measure the dimensions between all four legs, cut a shelf to this size from your desired material (ex. plywood), and screw into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Finish the bench if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Sand the wood smooth and apply stain, varnish, polyurethane, etc.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a Sturdy Floating Shelf to Use as a Workbench\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach a long 2x4 (38×89 mm) horizontally to the wall studs.\", \"描述\": \"(If your wall is solid brick, stone, etc., this method will not help you). The length of the 2x4 will be the length of the workbench and should be sized accordingly. (In this example, we are using a 16-foot / 4.8-meter piece.) Use a spirit level to make sure that this is attached horizontally.\\nDepending on the steel shelf brackets you have (and how far the hole is from the bend in the bracket), you may need a 2x6 (38×140 mm) instead.\\nThe top of the 2x4 strip in this example is 3 to 3.5 feet (approximately 1 meter) off the ground. If you need park a vehicle in your garage and it needs to fit underneath the shelf, account for any additional clearance required (i.e. your vehicle's hood).\\nUse 2.5-in / 6.5 cm screws (or 3-in / 7.5-cm screws if going through drywall) to attach the 4-in (89-mm) flat face against the garage wall studs.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach another piece of timber of the same dimensions below the first one.\", \"描述\": \"The gap between the two parallel strips should be determined by the length of the steel shelf bracket.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the shelf brackets to the two strips.\", \"描述\": \"The heavier duty the shelf bracket, the better. The top of the bracket is flush with the top surface of the upper strip. Use a plywood piece on top (a temporary shelf) and then butt the shelf bracket against it. Use 1.5-in (3.8-cm) screws to then attach the brackets. You will end up with two strips against the wall with a row of shelf brackets attached to them. The shelf brackets should be spaced approximately 2 feet (.6 meters) apart.\\nIf desired, shelf brackets can be alternated; heavy duty, lighter duty, heavy duty, etc. in order to accommodate toolbox placement and to be able to comfortably pull up a chair underneath the workbench.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut 3/4-in (2-cm) thick plywood into 2-ft (.6-m) wide planks.\", \"描述\": \"A 4x8 ft (1.2 x 2.4 m) sheet will work well for this purpose. Place one of the planks on the shelf brackets and screw the plank to the upper strip at the top/rear. Place the second plank next to (left or right of) the first one and join the two end-to-end with a 6 in (15.25cm) x 18 in (45.7 cm) piece of plywood underneath the two plank ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place another strip across the top of the shelf and screw into the wall studs.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Apply a front strip along the bottom edge of the shelf.\", \"描述\": \"Glue and screw a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) by 3/4 in (1.9 cm) maple strip that's as long as your shelf. This strengthens the Workbench top while absorbing wear and tear.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach drawers to the underside of the shelf.\", \"描述\": \"These thin drawers will accommodate any small tools you may have. The drawers should be 2 feet (.6 meter) wide, have a depth of 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and stretch 18 in (45.7 cm) to the back. To make and attach the shelves:\\n1x4 ((19×89 mm) pine strips can be attached to the bottom of the shelf. The short part of the strip can be attached with glue and screws to the plywood sheet.\\nAttach metal drawer slides to the strips.\\nConstruct drawers with a hardboard base and pine sides (1x2in or 2.5 by 5 cm). Edges hold the matching drawer slides. These drawer boxes are then slid into the pine strips that are attached to your plywood plank.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Adding 4x4 posts as legs to the front edge of the floating workbench will greatly increase its strength, which is important if you are going to be using it for pounding on things with a hammer.\\n\", \"Always bring a tape measure (minimum 20 feet or 6 meters long) to the store with you when purchasing wood. Wood is commonly mixed around by the customers by accident or cut into smaller lengths and placed back on the rack. Being able to measure out your lengths while shopping can save you time in returns!\\n\", \"Make sure you buy a hard wood(tends to have a darker colour).\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"The US lumber industry shortens each 2x4 by half an inch on either side for various reasons (shrinkage, smoothing). A standard 2x4 will actually measure somewhere around 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,359
How to Build a Garden Tractor Snowplow
1. Choosing Your Tractor 1-1. Make sure your tractor can handle the weight of the plow blade. Your tractor will also need to be able to bear the weight of the plough blade on its frame. Don’t attempt the conversion unless you are sure it can handle it. Rather than risk converting the mower yourself, consider purchasing one that already has a snow plough attachment available from the manufacturer. John Deere tractors offer this as an option. 1-2. Get your tractor serviced before putting the plow on. You’re advised to get your tractor serviced before you begin. Check the frame carefully for rust. Rust will weaken the structure, making it less likely that it will be able to bear the weight of a snow plough blade at the front while also being able to push snow out of the way. 1-3. Consider putting snow chains on your tires. Remember also that garden tractor tires aren’t usually intended for use on snow. You might like to consider fitting snow chains to the tires in addition to converting the front fitting. Wheel weights may also help rebalance the vehicle. 1-4. Double check that your tractor has what it takes to hold the plow. Not all ride-on tractor mowers will be suitable for turning into a snow plough. Some cheap models won’t be heavy or sturdy enough or have enough horsepower to push deep snow out of the way. 2. Making the Shovel or Plow Blade 2-1. Choose your materials for the plow. You’ll need to find something to form the shovel or blade of your snowplow. Items you can use to make this include: A half oil drum or piece of flat steel sheet about a quarter inch thick. 2-2. Form your steel sheet into a plow. If using a steel sheet, cut a piece about twice as wide as your tractor and about one and a half times as tall as the front of the tractor. Using a piece of chalk, mark out five sections of equal height along the vertical length of what will be your plow bucket. You’ll want to fold in the top and bottom quarters of the bucket to create curved edge to scoop the snow. 2-3. Bend the sheet. You can bend this sheet by scoring the metal (cutting a shallow groove in it, not all the way through). This will enable you to bend the steel into shape by hammering it between pieces of wood. Once bent, weld the sheet into place at the bend to make sure it retains its shape. 2-4. Try using an oil drum if you don’t have a steel sheet. If you don’t have sheet metal, you could try using an old oil drum cut in half or something like an old hot water tank. Oil drums are likely to be lightweight, which means that they will work better for a lighter frame tractor. They will also cut through the snow well but they are also likely to buckle under pressure. Remember that there will be sharp edges where you cut so make sure to store it where someone, like a child, will not be able to reach it. 3. Putting the Snowplow Together 3-1. Make a bracket on the frame of your tractor. On most models of tractor you’ll need to make a bracket on the frame and bring that forward slightly in order to position the plowing blade at the front. You can use reclaimed steel joists, or something like metal trusses, as these are adaptable and usually strong enough for the purpose. A welding tool is likely to be useful in attaching the bracket to the vehicle’s frame. Try to remove the motor deck and cutting tool before doing this, both for safety reasons and ease of access. 3-2. Weld the plough bucket onto the frame. You now need to attach the plough bucket or blade to the frame using a welding tool. Try to incorporate a pin or lever to allow the plough bucket to manoeuvre side to side. Add a hand-operated lever to the bucket so it can be pushed to manoeuvre it while you are sitting on the tractor. If you are left-handed, consider doing this on the left-hand side. 3-3. Make a lift. If you want to incorporate a lift mechanism, you may need to modify the frame slightly to allow for this. You’ll probably need to create a hand or foot lever so the bucket can be lifted by the person riding the mower. 3-4. Make sure you get the right size of snow chain for your wheels. Special garden equipment snow chains are available. Check the tire to see what the wheel size it (it should be written on the tire). Your local garden store may carry these, or you can purchase them online. 3-5. Put your snow chains on. Start fitting your snow chains by laying the chain out on the ground by the side of the tractor wheel. Remove any tangles and check for any damage. Drape the chain over the wheel. You’ll then need to move the tractor forward a few inches to wrap the chain around the tire. Finally, clip the chain into place and do up the rest of the fittings so it is securely fastened around the tire and tight enough to grip the snow as required. 3-6. Put some weight on the back end of your tractor. For stability, consider adding some weight onto the back end of your tractor to balance out the new weight at the front added by the snowplow blade. To do this: Strap bricks to the back of the tractor. Wheel weights may also help stabilize and balance your tractor. Tips You also have the option of making a wooden frame to attach the plow with, in which case you’re advised to put a steel edge on as this will help the plow cut through snow. Warnings Remember also that skin should not be exposed to cold metal when it is below freezing or it can be very painful. You might like to wrap some rags around the level just as a precaution.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing Your Tractor\\n1-1. Make sure your tractor can handle the weight of the plow blade.\\nYour tractor will also need to be able to bear the weight of the plough blade on its frame. Don’t attempt the conversion unless you are sure it can handle it.\\nRather than risk converting the mower yourself, consider purchasing one that already has a snow plough attachment available from the manufacturer. John Deere tractors offer this as an option.\\n1-2. Get your tractor serviced before putting the plow on.\\nYou’re advised to get your tractor serviced before you begin. Check the frame carefully for rust. Rust will weaken the structure, making it less likely that it will be able to bear the weight of a snow plough blade at the front while also being able to push snow out of the way.\\n1-3. Consider putting snow chains on your tires.\\nRemember also that garden tractor tires aren’t usually intended for use on snow. You might like to consider fitting snow chains to the tires in addition to converting the front fitting.\\nWheel weights may also help rebalance the vehicle.\\n1-4. Double check that your tractor has what it takes to hold the plow.\\nNot all ride-on tractor mowers will be suitable for turning into a snow plough. Some cheap models won’t be heavy or sturdy enough or have enough horsepower to push deep snow out of the way.\\n2. Making the Shovel or Plow Blade\\n2-1. Choose your materials for the plow.\\nYou’ll need to find something to form the shovel or blade of your snowplow. Items you can use to make this include:\\nA half oil drum or piece of flat steel sheet about a quarter inch thick.\\n2-2. Form your steel sheet into a plow.\\nIf using a steel sheet, cut a piece about twice as wide as your tractor and about one and a half times as tall as the front of the tractor. Using a piece of chalk, mark out five sections of equal height along the vertical length of what will be your plow bucket.\\nYou’ll want to fold in the top and bottom quarters of the bucket to create curved edge to scoop the snow.\\n2-3. Bend the sheet.\\nYou can bend this sheet by scoring the metal (cutting a shallow groove in it, not all the way through). This will enable you to bend the steel into shape by hammering it between pieces of wood.\\nOnce bent, weld the sheet into place at the bend to make sure it retains its shape.\\n2-4. Try using an oil drum if you don’t have a steel sheet.\\nIf you don’t have sheet metal, you could try using an old oil drum cut in half or something like an old hot water tank. Oil drums are likely to be lightweight, which means that they will work better for a lighter frame tractor. They will also cut through the snow well but they are also likely to buckle under pressure.\\nRemember that there will be sharp edges where you cut so make sure to store it where someone, like a child, will not be able to reach it.\\n3. Putting the Snowplow Together\\n3-1. Make a bracket on the frame of your tractor.\\nOn most models of tractor you’ll need to make a bracket on the frame and bring that forward slightly in order to position the plowing blade at the front.\\nYou can use reclaimed steel joists, or something like metal trusses, as these are adaptable and usually strong enough for the purpose. A welding tool is likely to be useful in attaching the bracket to the vehicle’s frame.\\nTry to remove the motor deck and cutting tool before doing this, both for safety reasons and ease of access.\\n3-2. Weld the plough bucket onto the frame.\\nYou now need to attach the plough bucket or blade to the frame using a welding tool. Try to incorporate a pin or lever to allow the plough bucket to manoeuvre side to side. Add a hand-operated lever to the bucket so it can be pushed to manoeuvre it while you are sitting on the tractor.\\nIf you are left-handed, consider doing this on the left-hand side.\\n3-3. Make a lift.\\nIf you want to incorporate a lift mechanism, you may need to modify the frame slightly to allow for this. You’ll probably need to create a hand or foot lever so the bucket can be lifted by the person riding the mower.\\n3-4. Make sure you get the right size of snow chain for your wheels.\\nSpecial garden equipment snow chains are available. Check the tire to see what the wheel size it (it should be written on the tire).\\nYour local garden store may carry these, or you can purchase them online.\\n3-5. Put your snow chains on.\\nStart fitting your snow chains by laying the chain out on the ground by the side of the tractor wheel. Remove any tangles and check for any damage. Drape the chain over the wheel. You’ll then need to move the tractor forward a few inches to wrap the chain around the tire.\\nFinally, clip the chain into place and do up the rest of the fittings so it is securely fastened around the tire and tight enough to grip the snow as required.\\n3-6. Put some weight on the back end of your tractor.\\nFor stability, consider adding some weight onto the back end of your tractor to balance out the new weight at the front added by the snowplow blade. To do this:\\nStrap bricks to the back of the tractor. Wheel weights may also help stabilize and balance your tractor.\\nTips\\nYou also have the option of making a wooden frame to attach the plow with, in which case you’re advised to put a steel edge on as this will help the plow cut through snow.\\nWarnings\\nRemember also that skin should not be exposed to cold metal when it is below freezing or it can be very painful. You might like to wrap some rags around the level just as a precaution.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With a little ingenuity, a ride-on mower can be transformed into a garden snow plough. This article will explain how to do this by adapting your existing garden tractor using reclaimed materials, a welding tool and appropriate safety equipment.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing Your Tractor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure your tractor can handle the weight of the plow blade.\", \"描述\": \"Your tractor will also need to be able to bear the weight of the plough blade on its frame. Don’t attempt the conversion unless you are sure it can handle it.\\nRather than risk converting the mower yourself, consider purchasing one that already has a snow plough attachment available from the manufacturer. John Deere tractors offer this as an option.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get your tractor serviced before putting the plow on.\", \"描述\": \"You’re advised to get your tractor serviced before you begin. Check the frame carefully for rust. Rust will weaken the structure, making it less likely that it will be able to bear the weight of a snow plough blade at the front while also being able to push snow out of the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider putting snow chains on your tires.\", \"描述\": \"Remember also that garden tractor tires aren’t usually intended for use on snow. You might like to consider fitting snow chains to the tires in addition to converting the front fitting.\\nWheel weights may also help rebalance the vehicle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Double check that your tractor has what it takes to hold the plow.\", \"描述\": \"Not all ride-on tractor mowers will be suitable for turning into a snow plough. Some cheap models won’t be heavy or sturdy enough or have enough horsepower to push deep snow out of the way.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Making the Shovel or Plow Blade\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials for the plow.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need to find something to form the shovel or blade of your snowplow. Items you can use to make this include:\\nA half oil drum or piece of flat steel sheet about a quarter inch thick.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Form your steel sheet into a plow.\", \"描述\": \"If using a steel sheet, cut a piece about twice as wide as your tractor and about one and a half times as tall as the front of the tractor. Using a piece of chalk, mark out five sections of equal height along the vertical length of what will be your plow bucket.\\nYou’ll want to fold in the top and bottom quarters of the bucket to create curved edge to scoop the snow.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Bend the sheet.\", \"描述\": \"You can bend this sheet by scoring the metal (cutting a shallow groove in it, not all the way through). This will enable you to bend the steel into shape by hammering it between pieces of wood.\\nOnce bent, weld the sheet into place at the bend to make sure it retains its shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try using an oil drum if you don’t have a steel sheet.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t have sheet metal, you could try using an old oil drum cut in half or something like an old hot water tank. Oil drums are likely to be lightweight, which means that they will work better for a lighter frame tractor. They will also cut through the snow well but they are also likely to buckle under pressure.\\nRemember that there will be sharp edges where you cut so make sure to store it where someone, like a child, will not be able to reach it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Putting the Snowplow Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make a bracket on the frame of your tractor.\", \"描述\": \"On most models of tractor you’ll need to make a bracket on the frame and bring that forward slightly in order to position the plowing blade at the front.\\nYou can use reclaimed steel joists, or something like metal trusses, as these are adaptable and usually strong enough for the purpose. A welding tool is likely to be useful in attaching the bracket to the vehicle’s frame.\\nTry to remove the motor deck and cutting tool before doing this, both for safety reasons and ease of access.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Weld the plough bucket onto the frame.\", \"描述\": \"You now need to attach the plough bucket or blade to the frame using a welding tool. Try to incorporate a pin or lever to allow the plough bucket to manoeuvre side to side. Add a hand-operated lever to the bucket so it can be pushed to manoeuvre it while you are sitting on the tractor.\\nIf you are left-handed, consider doing this on the left-hand side.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a lift.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to incorporate a lift mechanism, you may need to modify the frame slightly to allow for this. You’ll probably need to create a hand or foot lever so the bucket can be lifted by the person riding the mower.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make sure you get the right size of snow chain for your wheels.\", \"描述\": \"Special garden equipment snow chains are available. Check the tire to see what the wheel size it (it should be written on the tire).\\nYour local garden store may carry these, or you can purchase them online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put your snow chains on.\", \"描述\": \"Start fitting your snow chains by laying the chain out on the ground by the side of the tractor wheel. Remove any tangles and check for any damage. Drape the chain over the wheel. You’ll then need to move the tractor forward a few inches to wrap the chain around the tire.\\nFinally, clip the chain into place and do up the rest of the fittings so it is securely fastened around the tire and tight enough to grip the snow as required.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put some weight on the back end of your tractor.\", \"描述\": \"For stability, consider adding some weight onto the back end of your tractor to balance out the new weight at the front added by the snowplow blade. To do this:\\nStrap bricks to the back of the tractor. Wheel weights may also help stabilize and balance your tractor.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You also have the option of making a wooden frame to attach the plow with, in which case you’re advised to put a steel edge on as this will help the plow cut through snow.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Remember also that skin should not be exposed to cold metal when it is below freezing or it can be very painful. You might like to wrap some rags around the level just as a precaution.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,360
How to Build a Garden Trellis
1. Creating Your Trellis Frame 1-1. Gather your tools and supplies. Making a garden trellis is not difficult, but it does require some special tools and materials. To build a garden trellis, you will need: miter saw or circular saw drill sander eye and ear protection eight boards measuring 1 ½ inches x 1 ½ inches by 8 feet lots of 2 ½ inch exterior grade screws tape measure pencil 1-2. Measure and mark your boards. Take your 8 foot long boards and measure them to the dimensions that you need for this project. Use your pencil to mark the boards where they will need to be cut. You will need to measure and mark your 8 foot boards so that you will end up with: four 72 inch boards seven 48 inch boards several small pieces (about 6 inches) to use as spacers (optional) 1-3. Cut your boards. After you have finished measuring and marking all of your boards, you can use your miter saw or circular saw to cut them. Use the pencil marks that you made on the boards to cut the boards to the required dimensions. Make sure that you wear your ear and eye protection when you use the saw. Watch your fingers and be very careful when cutting your wood pieces. If you are worried about cutting the wood or if you do not have a saw, then you can also consider getting them cut at the hardware store. 1-4. Sand the ends and edges of the boards. Do your best to smooth out any rough edges on the ends of the boards. You can use a power sander or a manual sander to smooth out the ends and edges of your boards. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper such as #80 grit and then advance to a finer grit sandpaper as you remove the larger flaws in the wood. For example, you might finish sanding the trellis edges with a #150 or #180 grit sandpaper. Don’t forget to wear your ear and eye protection if you are using a power sander. 1-5. Create the frame. Lay out two of your 72 inch pieces so that they are parallel with each other. Then, place two of your 48 inch pieces on top of them so that they resemble a picture frame. Next, screw the corners of the 48 inch boards the corners of the 72 inch boards. Place two screws into each of the four corners to keep the trellis from pivoting. You can make pilot holes before you place your screws to help prevent the screws from splitting the wood, but this is optional. If you decide to make pilot holes, then they should be as big as the smallest diameter of your screws. Use a smaller sized drill bit that is as long as your screw to create the pilot hole before you place the screws. 2. Building the Trellis 2-1. Connect your last two 72 inch boards to your 48 inch boards. After you have created the frame, you should have two 72 inch pieces left. Measure along each of your 48 inch frame pieces to determine where to connect your last two 72 inch pieces. These two pieces should be evenly spaced between the other two 72 inch pieces. Secure the ends of the 72 inch pieces to the 48 inch pieces with a couple of screws. 2-2. Secure your other five 48 inch boards to the frame. Measure the two outer 72 inch boards and place pencil marks to indicate where you want to place your five remaining 48 inch boards. You can place them wherever you want, but make sure that these marks are even with each other so that the boards will be straight. To get a sense of how to space your boards, you can start by placing one board so that it lays across the centers of the 72 inch boards. Then place the other four pieces in the spaces that are left. Consider how you plan to use the trellis before deciding where to place the boards. For example, you might like to have a couple of boards lower to the ground to hang a planter. After you have decided where each of the boards should be placed, secure them with screws. 2-3. Add spacers if desired. If you want to leave a gap between the back of your trellis and the wall, then you can add some spacers to the back of your trellis. You can also add spacers to the front if you plan to hang something from the front (such as a planter or trough) that may sag without a spacer. If adding spacers to the back of your trellis, secure them to each of the four corners as well as a few in the center. If adding spacers to the front of your trellis, then place them wherever you think you may need them. Use your drill and a screw or two to secure your spacers. 2-4. Hang your trellis. Use your drill and screws to secure your trellis to a wall or sturdy fence. Place screws at each of the four corners of the trellis as well as a couple of screws in the center to secure your trellis in place. Make sure that the screws that you use are long enough to go all the way through the trellis and into the wall behind it. For example, if you have placed spacers at your corners, then you will need screw that are at least five inches long to secure the trellis to the wall. Warnings Always use caution when using power tools! They can cause severe injuries if not handled properly.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating Your Trellis Frame\\n1-1. Gather your tools and supplies.\\nMaking a garden trellis is not difficult, but it does require some special tools and materials. To build a garden trellis, you will need:\\nmiter saw or circular saw\\ndrill\\nsander\\neye and ear protection\\neight boards measuring 1 ½ inches x 1 ½ inches by 8 feet\\nlots of 2 ½ inch exterior grade screws\\ntape measure\\npencil\\n1-2. Measure and mark your boards.\\nTake your 8 foot long boards and measure them to the dimensions that you need for this project. Use your pencil to mark the boards where they will need to be cut. You will need to measure and mark your 8 foot boards so that you will end up with:\\nfour 72 inch boards\\nseven 48 inch boards\\nseveral small pieces (about 6 inches) to use as spacers (optional)\\n1-3. Cut your boards.\\nAfter you have finished measuring and marking all of your boards, you can use your miter saw or circular saw to cut them. Use the pencil marks that you made on the boards to cut the boards to the required dimensions.\\nMake sure that you wear your ear and eye protection when you use the saw.\\nWatch your fingers and be very careful when cutting your wood pieces.\\nIf you are worried about cutting the wood or if you do not have a saw, then you can also consider getting them cut at the hardware store.\\n1-4. Sand the ends and edges of the boards.\\nDo your best to smooth out any rough edges on the ends of the boards. You can use a power sander or a manual sander to smooth out the ends and edges of your boards.\\nStart with a coarse grit sandpaper such as #80 grit and then advance to a finer grit sandpaper as you remove the larger flaws in the wood. For example, you might finish sanding the trellis edges with a #150 or #180 grit sandpaper.\\nDon’t forget to wear your ear and eye protection if you are using a power sander.\\n1-5. Create the frame.\\nLay out two of your 72 inch pieces so that they are parallel with each other. Then, place two of your 48 inch pieces on top of them so that they resemble a picture frame. Next, screw the corners of the 48 inch boards the corners of the 72 inch boards.\\nPlace two screws into each of the four corners to keep the trellis from pivoting.\\nYou can make pilot holes before you place your screws to help prevent the screws from splitting the wood, but this is optional. If you decide to make pilot holes, then they should be as big as the smallest diameter of your screws. Use a smaller sized drill bit that is as long as your screw to create the pilot hole before you place the screws.\\n2. Building the Trellis\\n2-1. Connect your last two 72 inch boards to your 48 inch boards.\\nAfter you have created the frame, you should have two 72 inch pieces left. Measure along each of your 48 inch frame pieces to determine where to connect your last two 72 inch pieces. These two pieces should be evenly spaced between the other two 72 inch pieces.\\nSecure the ends of the 72 inch pieces to the 48 inch pieces with a couple of screws.\\n2-2. Secure your other five 48 inch boards to the frame.\\nMeasure the two outer 72 inch boards and place pencil marks to indicate where you want to place your five remaining 48 inch boards. You can place them wherever you want, but make sure that these marks are even with each other so that the boards will be straight.\\nTo get a sense of how to space your boards, you can start by placing one board so that it lays across the centers of the 72 inch boards. Then place the other four pieces in the spaces that are left.\\nConsider how you plan to use the trellis before deciding where to place the boards. For example, you might like to have a couple of boards lower to the ground to hang a planter.\\nAfter you have decided where each of the boards should be placed, secure them with screws.\\n2-3. Add spacers if desired.\\nIf you want to leave a gap between the back of your trellis and the wall, then you can add some spacers to the back of your trellis. You can also add spacers to the front if you plan to hang something from the front (such as a planter or trough) that may sag without a spacer.\\nIf adding spacers to the back of your trellis, secure them to each of the four corners as well as a few in the center.\\nIf adding spacers to the front of your trellis, then place them wherever you think you may need them.\\nUse your drill and a screw or two to secure your spacers.\\n2-4. Hang your trellis.\\nUse your drill and screws to secure your trellis to a wall or sturdy fence. Place screws at each of the four corners of the trellis as well as a couple of screws in the center to secure your trellis in place.\\nMake sure that the screws that you use are long enough to go all the way through the trellis and into the wall behind it. For example, if you have placed spacers at your corners, then you will need screw that are at least five inches long to secure the trellis to the wall.\\nWarnings\\nAlways use caution when using power tools! They can cause severe injuries if not handled properly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Garden trellises are useful for supporting plants, hanging vines, and holding planters, but they can be expensive. However, you can make your own garden trellis for less than it costs to buy one. Try making a garden trellis of your own to complete the look of your garden.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating Your Trellis Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your tools and supplies.\", \"描述\": \"Making a garden trellis is not difficult, but it does require some special tools and materials. To build a garden trellis, you will need:\\nmiter saw or circular saw\\ndrill\\nsander\\neye and ear protection\\neight boards measuring 1 ½ inches x 1 ½ inches by 8 feet\\nlots of 2 ½ inch exterior grade screws\\ntape measure\\npencil\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure and mark your boards.\", \"描述\": \"Take your 8 foot long boards and measure them to the dimensions that you need for this project. Use your pencil to mark the boards where they will need to be cut. You will need to measure and mark your 8 foot boards so that you will end up with:\\nfour 72 inch boards\\nseven 48 inch boards\\nseveral small pieces (about 6 inches) to use as spacers (optional)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut your boards.\", \"描述\": \"After you have finished measuring and marking all of your boards, you can use your miter saw or circular saw to cut them. Use the pencil marks that you made on the boards to cut the boards to the required dimensions.\\nMake sure that you wear your ear and eye protection when you use the saw.\\nWatch your fingers and be very careful when cutting your wood pieces.\\nIf you are worried about cutting the wood or if you do not have a saw, then you can also consider getting them cut at the hardware store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Sand the ends and edges of the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Do your best to smooth out any rough edges on the ends of the boards. You can use a power sander or a manual sander to smooth out the ends and edges of your boards.\\nStart with a coarse grit sandpaper such as #80 grit and then advance to a finer grit sandpaper as you remove the larger flaws in the wood. For example, you might finish sanding the trellis edges with a #150 or #180 grit sandpaper.\\nDon’t forget to wear your ear and eye protection if you are using a power sander.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Create the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out two of your 72 inch pieces so that they are parallel with each other. Then, place two of your 48 inch pieces on top of them so that they resemble a picture frame. Next, screw the corners of the 48 inch boards the corners of the 72 inch boards.\\nPlace two screws into each of the four corners to keep the trellis from pivoting.\\nYou can make pilot holes before you place your screws to help prevent the screws from splitting the wood, but this is optional. If you decide to make pilot holes, then they should be as big as the smallest diameter of your screws. Use a smaller sized drill bit that is as long as your screw to create the pilot hole before you place the screws.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Trellis\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect your last two 72 inch boards to your 48 inch boards.\", \"描述\": \"After you have created the frame, you should have two 72 inch pieces left. Measure along each of your 48 inch frame pieces to determine where to connect your last two 72 inch pieces. These two pieces should be evenly spaced between the other two 72 inch pieces.\\nSecure the ends of the 72 inch pieces to the 48 inch pieces with a couple of screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Secure your other five 48 inch boards to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the two outer 72 inch boards and place pencil marks to indicate where you want to place your five remaining 48 inch boards. You can place them wherever you want, but make sure that these marks are even with each other so that the boards will be straight.\\nTo get a sense of how to space your boards, you can start by placing one board so that it lays across the centers of the 72 inch boards. Then place the other four pieces in the spaces that are left.\\nConsider how you plan to use the trellis before deciding where to place the boards. For example, you might like to have a couple of boards lower to the ground to hang a planter.\\nAfter you have decided where each of the boards should be placed, secure them with screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add spacers if desired.\", \"描述\": \"If you want to leave a gap between the back of your trellis and the wall, then you can add some spacers to the back of your trellis. You can also add spacers to the front if you plan to hang something from the front (such as a planter or trough) that may sag without a spacer.\\nIf adding spacers to the back of your trellis, secure them to each of the four corners as well as a few in the center.\\nIf adding spacers to the front of your trellis, then place them wherever you think you may need them.\\nUse your drill and a screw or two to secure your spacers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Hang your trellis.\", \"描述\": \"Use your drill and screws to secure your trellis to a wall or sturdy fence. Place screws at each of the four corners of the trellis as well as a couple of screws in the center to secure your trellis in place.\\nMake sure that the screws that you use are long enough to go all the way through the trellis and into the wall behind it. For example, if you have placed spacers at your corners, then you will need screw that are at least five inches long to secure the trellis to the wall.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use caution when using power tools! They can cause severe injuries if not handled properly.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,361
How to Build a Generator
1. Obtain the Main Power Pieces 1-1. Acquire an engine. The required engine size is dependent on the amount of power that the generator will need to supply. A good rule of thumb for a useful, compact generator is to choose an engine in the range of 5 to 10 horsepower. Note that most engines rate their horsepower at a speed of 3,600 rotations per minute (RPM). These motors are about the size of lawn mower engines, and are typically available at lawn equipment stores, industrial supply shops or power equipment outlets. 1-2. Choose an AC generator head. This head will use an internal magnet to create electricity when the shaft mounted magnet is spun by the external engine. For most applications, output levels of 2,500 to 5,000 watts is suitable. In sizing the head, use the specification of the manufacturer to determine the engine size needed to drive that head. As a rough estimate, a generator can produce about 900 (749 watts per horsepower is the actual conversion) watts per input horsepower. Heads are available through industrial supply outlets and industrial equipment catalogs. 1-3. Select a 12 volt DC alternator. This alternator will generate 12 volts DC when the shaft is driven by the external engine. The alternator chosen must have a built-in voltage regulator. A 500 watt alternator is typically sufficient, and would require about another horsepower from the chosen engine. Alternators are widely available at auto parts suppliers. 2. Connect the Main Power Pieces 2-1. Fabricate a mounting plate. This mounting plate can be made of any sturdy material that can withstand the vibration of the gasoline engine. The 3 main power pieces (engine, generator head and alternator) must be mounted so that their shafts are parallel and the shaft attachment areas for drive pulleys are in the same plane. Mounting holes and mounting hole patterns must be derived from the manufacturer data for each of the 3 major power pieces. 2-2. Mount the pulleys. A pulley must be mounted to the engine shaft to belt drive the pulleys that will come already installed on the generator head and the alternator. This pulley size must be chosen so that when the engine is rotating at the nominal running speed given by the manufacturer, the belts will scale this up or down to the pulleys of the generator head and the alternator. Choose the scaling so that the generator head and the alternator are running at the rated speed indicated on the manufacturer data sheet. In most typical generators, this will result in an engine pulley of 5 to 10 inches (125 to 250 mm). Pulleys are available at industrial supply stores and through equipment supplier catalogs. 2-3. Run the belt or belts. The design of the generator may need different pulleys on the engine to apply proper shaft speed to the generator head and the alternator, or this may be workable with 1 engine pulley and 1 belt. Run the belt over the pulleys and make sure that they are taught. Slotting the mounting holes of the engine will provide good adjustment to achieve this. A V belt is preferable to a standard belt as it will have less tendency to slip. Belts may be acquired from the outlet that supplied the pulleys. 2-4. Mount the gasoline tank to the mounting plate. 2-5. Reconnect the gasoline supply. Fill the gasoline tank and place the fuel feed lines to the engine. Tips Before purchasing an engine for your generator, see if you have any old garden equipment from which such a motor might be salvaged. Alternators are called that because they generate alternating current AC. Generators produce DC direct current. DC generators' (or 'dynamos') and 'alternators' initially produce alternating current. In a so-called 'DC generator', this AC current is generated in the rotating armature, and then converted to DC by the commutator and brushes . Yet by using different devices AC can be produce both as can generators, yet there initial current type is as noted. An automatic voltage control device controls the field current to keep output voltage constant. If the output voltage from the stationary armature coils drops due to an increase in demand, more current is fed into the rotating field coils through the voltage regulator (VR). This increases the magnetic field around the field coils which induces a greater voltage in the armature coils. Thus, the output voltage is brought back up to its original value.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Obtain the Main Power Pieces\\n1-1. Acquire an engine.\\nThe required engine size is dependent on the amount of power that the generator will need to supply. A good rule of thumb for a useful, compact generator is to choose an engine in the range of 5 to 10 horsepower. Note that most engines rate their horsepower at a speed of 3,600 rotations per minute (RPM). These motors are about the size of lawn mower engines, and are typically available at lawn equipment stores, industrial supply shops or power equipment outlets.\\n1-2. Choose an AC generator head.\\nThis head will use an internal magnet to create electricity when the shaft mounted magnet is spun by the external engine. For most applications, output levels of 2,500 to 5,000 watts is suitable. In sizing the head, use the specification of the manufacturer to determine the engine size needed to drive that head. As a rough estimate, a generator can produce about 900 (749 watts per horsepower is the actual conversion) watts per input horsepower. Heads are available through industrial supply outlets and industrial equipment catalogs.\\n1-3. Select a 12 volt DC alternator.\\nThis alternator will generate 12 volts DC when the shaft is driven by the external engine. The alternator chosen must have a built-in voltage regulator. A 500 watt alternator is typically sufficient, and would require about another horsepower from the chosen engine. Alternators are widely available at auto parts suppliers.\\n2. Connect the Main Power Pieces\\n2-1. Fabricate a mounting plate.\\nThis mounting plate can be made of any sturdy material that can withstand the vibration of the gasoline engine. The 3 main power pieces (engine, generator head and alternator) must be mounted so that their shafts are parallel and the shaft attachment areas for drive pulleys are in the same plane. Mounting holes and mounting hole patterns must be derived from the manufacturer data for each of the 3 major power pieces.\\n2-2. Mount the pulleys.\\nA pulley must be mounted to the engine shaft to belt drive the pulleys that will come already installed on the generator head and the alternator. This pulley size must be chosen so that when the engine is rotating at the nominal running speed given by the manufacturer, the belts will scale this up or down to the pulleys of the generator head and the alternator. Choose the scaling so that the generator head and the alternator are running at the rated speed indicated on the manufacturer data sheet. In most typical generators, this will result in an engine pulley of 5 to 10 inches (125 to 250 mm). Pulleys are available at industrial supply stores and through equipment supplier catalogs.\\n2-3. Run the belt or belts.\\nThe design of the generator may need different pulleys on the engine to apply proper shaft speed to the generator head and the alternator, or this may be workable with 1 engine pulley and 1 belt. Run the belt over the pulleys and make sure that they are taught. Slotting the mounting holes of the engine will provide good adjustment to achieve this. A V belt is preferable to a standard belt as it will have less tendency to slip. Belts may be acquired from the outlet that supplied the pulleys.\\n2-4. Mount the gasoline tank to the mounting plate.\\n\\n2-5. Reconnect the gasoline supply.\\nFill the gasoline tank and place the fuel feed lines to the engine.\\nTips\\nBefore purchasing an engine for your generator, see if you have any old garden equipment from which such a motor might be salvaged.\\nAlternators are called that because they generate alternating current AC. Generators produce DC direct current. DC generators' (or 'dynamos') and 'alternators' initially produce alternating current. In a so-called 'DC generator', this AC current is generated in the rotating armature, and then converted to DC by the commutator and brushes . Yet by using different devices AC can be produce both as can generators, yet there initial current type is as noted.\\nAn automatic voltage control device controls the field current to keep output voltage constant. If the output voltage from the stationary armature coils drops due to an increase in demand, more current is fed into the rotating field coils through the voltage regulator (VR). This increases the magnetic field around the field coils which induces a greater voltage in the armature coils. Thus, the output voltage is brought back up to its original value.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Our society has become accustomed to using equipment and appliances that run on AC power provided by our local power provider. In most cases this is ideal, but in some cases, AC power is not available. AC power may be unavailable because the distribution grid of the power provider is not operating, or because no distribution grid exists in the area, as would be the case on camping or hiking excursions. AC power can be made available in areas that cannot get AC power from a distribution grid by using a gasoline powered generator to make AC power. Gasoline powered generators also may be used to recharge the 12 volt DC batteries of portable equipment. The 12 volt DC batteries allow equipment and appliances to be used in the absence of a power grid, but have limited run time available. Use these tips to learn how to build a generator.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain the Main Power Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Acquire an engine.\", \"描述\": \"The required engine size is dependent on the amount of power that the generator will need to supply. A good rule of thumb for a useful, compact generator is to choose an engine in the range of 5 to 10 horsepower. Note that most engines rate their horsepower at a speed of 3,600 rotations per minute (RPM). These motors are about the size of lawn mower engines, and are typically available at lawn equipment stores, industrial supply shops or power equipment outlets.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose an AC generator head.\", \"描述\": \"This head will use an internal magnet to create electricity when the shaft mounted magnet is spun by the external engine. For most applications, output levels of 2,500 to 5,000 watts is suitable. In sizing the head, use the specification of the manufacturer to determine the engine size needed to drive that head. As a rough estimate, a generator can produce about 900 (749 watts per horsepower is the actual conversion) watts per input horsepower. Heads are available through industrial supply outlets and industrial equipment catalogs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Select a 12 volt DC alternator.\", \"描述\": \"This alternator will generate 12 volts DC when the shaft is driven by the external engine. The alternator chosen must have a built-in voltage regulator. A 500 watt alternator is typically sufficient, and would require about another horsepower from the chosen engine. Alternators are widely available at auto parts suppliers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect the Main Power Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fabricate a mounting plate.\", \"描述\": \"This mounting plate can be made of any sturdy material that can withstand the vibration of the gasoline engine. The 3 main power pieces (engine, generator head and alternator) must be mounted so that their shafts are parallel and the shaft attachment areas for drive pulleys are in the same plane. Mounting holes and mounting hole patterns must be derived from the manufacturer data for each of the 3 major power pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mount the pulleys.\", \"描述\": \"A pulley must be mounted to the engine shaft to belt drive the pulleys that will come already installed on the generator head and the alternator. This pulley size must be chosen so that when the engine is rotating at the nominal running speed given by the manufacturer, the belts will scale this up or down to the pulleys of the generator head and the alternator. Choose the scaling so that the generator head and the alternator are running at the rated speed indicated on the manufacturer data sheet. In most typical generators, this will result in an engine pulley of 5 to 10 inches (125 to 250 mm). Pulleys are available at industrial supply stores and through equipment supplier catalogs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Run the belt or belts.\", \"描述\": \"The design of the generator may need different pulleys on the engine to apply proper shaft speed to the generator head and the alternator, or this may be workable with 1 engine pulley and 1 belt. Run the belt over the pulleys and make sure that they are taught. Slotting the mounting holes of the engine will provide good adjustment to achieve this. A V belt is preferable to a standard belt as it will have less tendency to slip. Belts may be acquired from the outlet that supplied the pulleys.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mount the gasoline tank to the mounting plate.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Reconnect the gasoline supply.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the gasoline tank and place the fuel feed lines to the engine.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Before purchasing an engine for your generator, see if you have any old garden equipment from which such a motor might be salvaged.\\n\", \"Alternators are called that because they generate alternating current AC. Generators produce DC direct current. DC generators' (or 'dynamos') and 'alternators' initially produce alternating current. In a so-called 'DC generator', this AC current is generated in the rotating armature, and then converted to DC by the commutator and brushes . Yet by using different devices AC can be produce both as can generators, yet there initial current type is as noted.\\n\", \"An automatic voltage control device controls the field current to keep output voltage constant. If the output voltage from the stationary armature coils drops due to an increase in demand, more current is fed into the rotating field coils through the voltage regulator (VR). This increases the magnetic field around the field coils which induces a greater voltage in the armature coils. Thus, the output voltage is brought back up to its original value.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,362
How to Build a Go Kart
1. Planning Your Project 1-1. Draw up detailed plans for the go-kart you want to make. Go karts can be many different sizes, shapes, and designs. These homemade vehicles are amenable to any design elements you want to throw into it. The basic essentials are a chassis, a simple engine, and a steering/braking system. Get creative in your planning for the project and produce detailed diagrams to make sure you get enough materials to complete the job. Look at other go-karts for inspiration and learn from kart-makers who've been there before. Alternatively, you can find schematics and plans online for many different types of models, if you'd rather let someone else do the planning. Use a template and modify it as you see fit. For specific chassis sizing, go to the CIK FIA website: http://www.cikfia.com/fileadmin/content/REGULATIONS/Technical/Technical%20Drawings/2017/Drawing_1.pdf 1-2. Size the go-kart appropriately. The size of the go-kart should depend on the age and size of the driver. Make sure you plan the go-kart accurately and using specific measurements, in order to fit the correct materials into the kart. There are three sizes of karts, measured from the center of the King Pin to the middle of the rear axle: Ages 5-8, Frame size: 700 to 900 mm Ages 8-12, Frame size: 900 mm to 1010 mm Ages 12 and up, Frame size 1040 mm 1-3. Gather your materials. If you're short on cash, visit a scrap yard and see if you can pick up any low-cost parts. Or, you may be able to salvage parts from an old riding lawnmower or a junk go kart found at a yard sale. Ask lawn mower repair services for spare parts or junked out riding lawnmowers and used 4 cycle engines in the 10 to 15 horsepower range, with horizontal shaft and a drive clutch assembly. Here's what you'll need: For the chassis: 30 feet (9.2 m) of 1-inch (2.5 cm) square tubing 6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.75-inch (2 cm) round steel barstock 6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) bar stock 3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate in a width and length slightly larger than your engine Plywood or metal (for seat and floorboards) Seat For engine: Engine (try an old lawnmower engine) Chain that fits the sprocket Bolts, washers Gas tank For the drive train: Wheels Steering wheel Gear and handbrake Drive shaft Bearings Steering shaft Brake pedal Throttle/go pedal 1-4. Obtain a welder. If you've got no experience welding, you will have to hire a welder for this project. The most essential part of the go-kart is a solid chassis that'll hold you onto it while driving and house the engine. If you're going to weld it together out of pieces of barstock, the welds should all be made with the proper heat, weld depth/penetration and uniform weld-beads. Otherwise, the welds may be weak, brittle, bubbly, cracked and/or only surface deep, making your go-kart a death trap. If you don't have experience welding, don't start by putting together a go-kart. Start with other smaller projects if you want to learn. 1-5. Consider buying a go-kart kit. If you're not interested in welding and designing your own go-kart, purchase a no-weld kit that you can put together with simple tools, featuring detailed instructions and schematics to make the job a snap. Available widely for about $550, you can have the satisfaction of putting together a go-kart yourself without the hassle of designing it and buying all the materials separately. 2. Building the Chassis and Steering Column 2-1. Cut the metal tubing. Cut your lengths of tubing to the appropriate lengths, given your design or schematics. For most designs, the front end will feature a camber angle, narrower than the rear, which will allow the wheels room to turn, allowing the chassis to twist slightly. To do this, mount a King Pin at the front corners where the wheels will be, to allow for easy twist. For an easy eye-guide, consider marking up the floor of the garage or the area you're working with sidewalk chalk of the appropriate measurement, to keep you from having to remeasure repeatedly. You could even draw out the whole design on the ground and start laying it on top. 2-2. Make a jig for your kart (optional). A jig is a flat piece of metal with slots for clamps to hold down the tubes. This will help you weld the tubes in the right place! 2-3. Weld the frame together according to your design. Use concrete blocks to keep the frame elevated while you work, making sure all your connection points are solid and the chassis is secure. It needs to be strong enough to hold your weight and the weight of the engine, so it's not the time for a shoddy weld job. For more strength, use gussets at all corners. 2-4. Assemble the front stub axles. Build your axle with a straight piece of 0.75-inch (2 cm) steel rod, and two bushings attached to your frame. Use washers and cotter pins drilled through the axle to keep the assembly in position. Install the front stubs that'll allow you to turn easily before messing with the steering column and attach your King Pin, to the steering arm. You'll need to have at least 110 degrees of angle on the front wheels, so plan accordingly. 2-5. Install your rear axle and wheel assembly. You'll likely need to assemble an axle carrier with a bearing bracket for the rear axle, meaning that the axle itself can be welded to the frame while also spinning freely and snugly. Weld a steel plate onto the chassis, securing the pressure plate outside with high-tensile bolts and lock nuts, to squeeze the bearing. Rather than making your own, you can also purchase these assemblies, sometimes called "Pillar Bearing Units." 2-6. Build your seat out of plywood and bolt it to the frame. Drill holes in the plywood and install T nuts within the holes to provide support when bolting the seat to the frame. Cover the plywood with 2" high density foam, then cover the foam with marine vinyl. Secure the vinyl to the seat by stapling it to the underside or back portion of the plywood. Alternatively, you can try to salvage an old go-kart seat or an appropriately-sized car seat from the junk yard to save money. Leave enough room for the steering, engine, and other controls. 3. Mounting the Engine and Steering Column 3-1. Install the engine mount. Weld a flat piece of 3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate to the rear frame to mount your engine. Place the engine on the plate, and mark the holes for the mounting bolts so that the engine pulley lines up with the drive pulley on your axle. Attach the drive pulley on the axle prior to mounting the axle in the bushings. You can either use a set screw to hold it in position, or weld it directly to the axle, but it should be aligned with the pulley on your engine. 3-2. Assemble your steering linkage. Use the 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) steel rod for linkages, and the 0.75-inch (2 cm) for your axles. To make the 90-degree bends in the 0.75-inch (2 cm) rod, you may have to use a torch to heat the steel. Provide adjustable links for aligning steering, because it is very important to have the proper caster and camber: front-wheel vertical and steering tilt. 3-3. Install the wheels and brakes. Get some small racing wheels to give your kart the optimum acceleration and control. Fix them onto the axles with hubs and start working on the brakes, so the go-kart will be safe. For the brakes, fix a disc onto the rear axle and a caliper assembly onto the chassis for the most professional system possible. Often, you can acquire these assemblies in relatively good shape from junked motorbikes. They're the appropriate size and will be easy to work with. Install a brake pedal to operate with your foot, regardless of what kind of acceleration you have. Don't leave too much to do with your hands other than steering. 3-4. Attach the throttle cable to the hand throttle. Depending upon your experience and the kind of engine you're working with, you may be able to put together a foot pedal, or you may just need to make it easy and throttle-up like you would a lawnmower. 3-5. Double check your brakes and suspension system before test-driving. Even if you're going at relatively slow speeds, it's important to make sure you're not going to slip an axle on your first go-around. Double check your welds, your brakes, and the engine's mounting. Then take 'er for a spin! Tips Try to add the extras at the end, so you can do all the big, more important, mechanical parts first. The assembly does have an accelerator, which also can be added using a simple throttle cable assembly from a discarded push mower, or a more sophisticated foot operated gas pedal. Get a go kart manual, as it will help and you can also get driving and tuning tips. Warnings Test the go kart before going on the track, as the parts could detach or fail. Because this is a simple project without high-tech engineering and design considerations, it is not recommended that a high gear ratio or large engine is used on this go kart. Speeds over 10–15 mph (16–24 km/h) can cause failure of insufficiently engineered components. Wear protective gear when driving go carts: helmets, pads, etc. This is not a real car and should not under any circumstances be driven on the road! You must have an adult that is 18+ years old in order to build the go kart. Kids may not assemble any tools or put anything together, but they can help gather the tools needed.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Project\\n1-1. Draw up detailed plans for the go-kart you want to make.\\nGo karts can be many different sizes, shapes, and designs. These homemade vehicles are amenable to any design elements you want to throw into it. The basic essentials are a chassis, a simple engine, and a steering/braking system.\\nGet creative in your planning for the project and produce detailed diagrams to make sure you get enough materials to complete the job. Look at other go-karts for inspiration and learn from kart-makers who've been there before.\\nAlternatively, you can find schematics and plans online for many different types of models, if you'd rather let someone else do the planning. Use a template and modify it as you see fit.\\nFor specific chassis sizing, go to the CIK FIA website: http://www.cikfia.com/fileadmin/content/REGULATIONS/Technical/Technical%20Drawings/2017/Drawing_1.pdf\\n1-2. Size the go-kart appropriately.\\nThe size of the go-kart should depend on the age and size of the driver. Make sure you plan the go-kart accurately and using specific measurements, in order to fit the correct materials into the kart. There are three sizes of karts, measured from the center of the King Pin to the middle of the rear axle:\\n\\n Ages 5-8, Frame size: 700 to 900 mm\\n Ages 8-12, Frame size: 900 mm to 1010 mm\\n Ages 12 and up, Frame size 1040 mm\\n1-3. Gather your materials.\\nIf you're short on cash, visit a scrap yard and see if you can pick up any low-cost parts. Or, you may be able to salvage parts from an old riding lawnmower or a junk go kart found at a yard sale. Ask lawn mower repair services for spare parts or junked out riding lawnmowers and used 4 cycle engines in the 10 to 15 horsepower range, with horizontal shaft and a drive clutch assembly. Here's what you'll need:\\nFor the chassis:\\n30 feet (9.2 m) of 1-inch (2.5 cm) square tubing\\n6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.75-inch (2 cm) round steel barstock\\n6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) bar stock\\n3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate in a width and length slightly larger than your engine\\nPlywood or metal (for seat and floorboards)\\nSeat\\n\\nFor engine:\\nEngine (try an old lawnmower engine)\\nChain that fits the sprocket\\nBolts, washers\\nGas tank\\n\\nFor the drive train:\\nWheels\\nSteering wheel\\nGear and handbrake\\nDrive shaft\\nBearings\\nSteering shaft\\nBrake pedal\\nThrottle/go pedal\\n1-4. Obtain a welder.\\nIf you've got no experience welding, you will have to hire a welder for this project. The most essential part of the go-kart is a solid chassis that'll hold you onto it while driving and house the engine. If you're going to weld it together out of pieces of barstock, the welds should all be made with the proper heat, weld depth/penetration and uniform weld-beads. Otherwise, the welds may be weak, brittle, bubbly, cracked and/or only surface deep, making your go-kart a death trap.\\nIf you don't have experience welding, don't start by putting together a go-kart. Start with other smaller projects if you want to learn.\\n1-5. Consider buying a go-kart kit.\\nIf you're not interested in welding and designing your own go-kart, purchase a no-weld kit that you can put together with simple tools, featuring detailed instructions and schematics to make the job a snap.\\nAvailable widely for about $550, you can have the satisfaction of putting together a go-kart yourself without the hassle of designing it and buying all the materials separately.\\n2. Building the Chassis and Steering Column\\n2-1. Cut the metal tubing.\\nCut your lengths of tubing to the appropriate lengths, given your design or schematics.\\nFor most designs, the front end will feature a camber angle, narrower than the rear, which will allow the wheels room to turn, allowing the chassis to twist slightly. To do this, mount a King Pin at the front corners where the wheels will be, to allow for easy twist.\\nFor an easy eye-guide, consider marking up the floor of the garage or the area you're working with sidewalk chalk of the appropriate measurement, to keep you from having to remeasure repeatedly. You could even draw out the whole design on the ground and start laying it on top.\\n2-2. Make a jig for your kart (optional).\\nA jig is a flat piece of metal with slots for clamps to hold down the tubes. This will help you weld the tubes in the right place!\\n2-3. Weld the frame together according to your design.\\nUse concrete blocks to keep the frame elevated while you work, making sure all your connection points are solid and the chassis is secure. It needs to be strong enough to hold your weight and the weight of the engine, so it's not the time for a shoddy weld job. For more strength, use gussets at all corners.\\n2-4. Assemble the front stub axles.\\nBuild your axle with a straight piece of 0.75-inch (2 cm) steel rod, and two bushings attached to your frame. Use washers and cotter pins drilled through the axle to keep the assembly in position.\\nInstall the front stubs that'll allow you to turn easily before messing with the steering column and attach your King Pin, to the steering arm. You'll need to have at least 110 degrees of angle on the front wheels, so plan accordingly.\\n2-5. Install your rear axle and wheel assembly.\\nYou'll likely need to assemble an axle carrier with a bearing bracket for the rear axle, meaning that the axle itself can be welded to the frame while also spinning freely and snugly. Weld a steel plate onto the chassis, securing the pressure plate outside with high-tensile bolts and lock nuts, to squeeze the bearing.\\nRather than making your own, you can also purchase these assemblies, sometimes called \\\"Pillar Bearing Units.\\\"\\n2-6. Build your seat out of plywood and bolt it to the frame.\\nDrill holes in the plywood and install T nuts within the holes to provide support when bolting the seat to the frame. Cover the plywood with 2\\\" high density foam, then cover the foam with marine vinyl. Secure the vinyl to the seat by stapling it to the underside or back portion of the plywood. Alternatively, you can try to salvage an old go-kart seat or an appropriately-sized car seat from the junk yard to save money. Leave enough room for the steering, engine, and other controls.\\n3. Mounting the Engine and Steering Column\\n3-1. Install the engine mount.\\nWeld a flat piece of 3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate to the rear frame to mount your engine. Place the engine on the plate, and mark the holes for the mounting bolts so that the engine pulley lines up with the drive pulley on your axle.\\nAttach the drive pulley on the axle prior to mounting the axle in the bushings. You can either use a set screw to hold it in position, or weld it directly to the axle, but it should be aligned with the pulley on your engine.\\n3-2. Assemble your steering linkage.\\nUse the 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) steel rod for linkages, and the 0.75-inch (2 cm) for your axles. To make the 90-degree bends in the 0.75-inch (2 cm) rod, you may have to use a torch to heat the steel.\\nProvide adjustable links for aligning steering, because it is very important to have the proper caster and camber: front-wheel vertical and steering tilt.\\n3-3. Install the wheels and brakes.\\nGet some small racing wheels to give your kart the optimum acceleration and control. Fix them onto the axles with hubs and start working on the brakes, so the go-kart will be safe.\\nFor the brakes, fix a disc onto the rear axle and a caliper assembly onto the chassis for the most professional system possible. Often, you can acquire these assemblies in relatively good shape from junked motorbikes. They're the appropriate size and will be easy to work with.\\nInstall a brake pedal to operate with your foot, regardless of what kind of acceleration you have. Don't leave too much to do with your hands other than steering.\\n3-4. Attach the throttle cable to the hand throttle.\\nDepending upon your experience and the kind of engine you're working with, you may be able to put together a foot pedal, or you may just need to make it easy and throttle-up like you would a lawnmower.\\n3-5. Double check your brakes and suspension system before test-driving.\\nEven if you're going at relatively slow speeds, it's important to make sure you're not going to slip an axle on your first go-around. Double check your welds, your brakes, and the engine's mounting. Then take 'er for a spin!\\nTips\\nTry to add the extras at the end, so you can do all the big, more important, mechanical parts first.\\nThe assembly does have an accelerator, which also can be added using a simple throttle cable assembly from a discarded push mower, or a more sophisticated foot operated gas pedal.\\nGet a go kart manual, as it will help and you can also get driving and tuning tips.\\nWarnings\\nTest the go kart before going on the track, as the parts could detach or fail.\\nBecause this is a simple project without high-tech engineering and design considerations, it is not recommended that a high gear ratio or large engine is used on this go kart. Speeds over 10–15 mph (16–24 km/h) can cause failure of insufficiently engineered components.\\nWear protective gear when driving go carts: helmets, pads, etc.\\nThis is not a real car and should not under any circumstances be driven on the road!\\nYou must have an adult that is 18+ years old in order to build the go kart. Kids may not assemble any tools or put anything together, but they can help gather the tools needed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Nothing channels the inner speed-demon like tearing around on a go-kart. Building one yourself from a kit or from scratch can be a highly-addictive project, a fun garage activity for amateur mechanics of all ages. Depending on your access to the necessary tools, you can learn to plan a cool go-kart design for yourself, weld together the right kind of chassis, and make the beast move. See Step 1 for more information.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Project\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Draw up detailed plans for the go-kart you want to make.\", \"描述\": \"Go karts can be many different sizes, shapes, and designs. These homemade vehicles are amenable to any design elements you want to throw into it. The basic essentials are a chassis, a simple engine, and a steering/braking system.\\nGet creative in your planning for the project and produce detailed diagrams to make sure you get enough materials to complete the job. Look at other go-karts for inspiration and learn from kart-makers who've been there before.\\nAlternatively, you can find schematics and plans online for many different types of models, if you'd rather let someone else do the planning. Use a template and modify it as you see fit.\\nFor specific chassis sizing, go to the CIK FIA website: http://www.cikfia.com/fileadmin/content/REGULATIONS/Technical/Technical%20Drawings/2017/Drawing_1.pdf\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Size the go-kart appropriately.\", \"描述\": \"The size of the go-kart should depend on the age and size of the driver. Make sure you plan the go-kart accurately and using specific measurements, in order to fit the correct materials into the kart. There are three sizes of karts, measured from the center of the King Pin to the middle of the rear axle:\\n\\n Ages 5-8, Frame size: 700 to 900 mm\\n Ages 8-12, Frame size: 900 mm to 1010 mm\\n Ages 12 and up, Frame size 1040 mm\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"If you're short on cash, visit a scrap yard and see if you can pick up any low-cost parts. Or, you may be able to salvage parts from an old riding lawnmower or a junk go kart found at a yard sale. Ask lawn mower repair services for spare parts or junked out riding lawnmowers and used 4 cycle engines in the 10 to 15 horsepower range, with horizontal shaft and a drive clutch assembly. Here's what you'll need:\\nFor the chassis:\\n30 feet (9.2 m) of 1-inch (2.5 cm) square tubing\\n6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.75-inch (2 cm) round steel barstock\\n6 feet (1.8 m) of 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) bar stock\\n3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate in a width and length slightly larger than your engine\\nPlywood or metal (for seat and floorboards)\\nSeat\\n\\nFor engine:\\nEngine (try an old lawnmower engine)\\nChain that fits the sprocket\\nBolts, washers\\nGas tank\\n\\nFor the drive train:\\nWheels\\nSteering wheel\\nGear and handbrake\\nDrive shaft\\nBearings\\nSteering shaft\\nBrake pedal\\nThrottle/go pedal\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Obtain a welder.\", \"描述\": \"If you've got no experience welding, you will have to hire a welder for this project. The most essential part of the go-kart is a solid chassis that'll hold you onto it while driving and house the engine. If you're going to weld it together out of pieces of barstock, the welds should all be made with the proper heat, weld depth/penetration and uniform weld-beads. Otherwise, the welds may be weak, brittle, bubbly, cracked and/or only surface deep, making your go-kart a death trap.\\nIf you don't have experience welding, don't start by putting together a go-kart. Start with other smaller projects if you want to learn.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider buying a go-kart kit.\", \"描述\": \"If you're not interested in welding and designing your own go-kart, purchase a no-weld kit that you can put together with simple tools, featuring detailed instructions and schematics to make the job a snap.\\nAvailable widely for about $550, you can have the satisfaction of putting together a go-kart yourself without the hassle of designing it and buying all the materials separately.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Chassis and Steering Column\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the metal tubing.\", \"描述\": \"Cut your lengths of tubing to the appropriate lengths, given your design or schematics.\\nFor most designs, the front end will feature a camber angle, narrower than the rear, which will allow the wheels room to turn, allowing the chassis to twist slightly. To do this, mount a King Pin at the front corners where the wheels will be, to allow for easy twist.\\nFor an easy eye-guide, consider marking up the floor of the garage or the area you're working with sidewalk chalk of the appropriate measurement, to keep you from having to remeasure repeatedly. You could even draw out the whole design on the ground and start laying it on top.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a jig for your kart (optional).\", \"描述\": \"A jig is a flat piece of metal with slots for clamps to hold down the tubes. This will help you weld the tubes in the right place!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Weld the frame together according to your design.\", \"描述\": \"Use concrete blocks to keep the frame elevated while you work, making sure all your connection points are solid and the chassis is secure. It needs to be strong enough to hold your weight and the weight of the engine, so it's not the time for a shoddy weld job. For more strength, use gussets at all corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Assemble the front stub axles.\", \"描述\": \"Build your axle with a straight piece of 0.75-inch (2 cm) steel rod, and two bushings attached to your frame. Use washers and cotter pins drilled through the axle to keep the assembly in position.\\nInstall the front stubs that'll allow you to turn easily before messing with the steering column and attach your King Pin, to the steering arm. You'll need to have at least 110 degrees of angle on the front wheels, so plan accordingly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install your rear axle and wheel assembly.\", \"描述\": \"You'll likely need to assemble an axle carrier with a bearing bracket for the rear axle, meaning that the axle itself can be welded to the frame while also spinning freely and snugly. Weld a steel plate onto the chassis, securing the pressure plate outside with high-tensile bolts and lock nuts, to squeeze the bearing.\\nRather than making your own, you can also purchase these assemblies, sometimes called \\\"Pillar Bearing Units.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build your seat out of plywood and bolt it to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Drill holes in the plywood and install T nuts within the holes to provide support when bolting the seat to the frame. Cover the plywood with 2\\\" high density foam, then cover the foam with marine vinyl. Secure the vinyl to the seat by stapling it to the underside or back portion of the plywood. Alternatively, you can try to salvage an old go-kart seat or an appropriately-sized car seat from the junk yard to save money. Leave enough room for the steering, engine, and other controls.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mounting the Engine and Steering Column\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install the engine mount.\", \"描述\": \"Weld a flat piece of 3/16-inch (0.5 cm) thick steel plate to the rear frame to mount your engine. Place the engine on the plate, and mark the holes for the mounting bolts so that the engine pulley lines up with the drive pulley on your axle.\\nAttach the drive pulley on the axle prior to mounting the axle in the bushings. You can either use a set screw to hold it in position, or weld it directly to the axle, but it should be aligned with the pulley on your engine.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assemble your steering linkage.\", \"描述\": \"Use the 0.5-inch (1.5 cm) steel rod for linkages, and the 0.75-inch (2 cm) for your axles. To make the 90-degree bends in the 0.75-inch (2 cm) rod, you may have to use a torch to heat the steel.\\nProvide adjustable links for aligning steering, because it is very important to have the proper caster and camber: front-wheel vertical and steering tilt.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the wheels and brakes.\", \"描述\": \"Get some small racing wheels to give your kart the optimum acceleration and control. Fix them onto the axles with hubs and start working on the brakes, so the go-kart will be safe.\\nFor the brakes, fix a disc onto the rear axle and a caliper assembly onto the chassis for the most professional system possible. Often, you can acquire these assemblies in relatively good shape from junked motorbikes. They're the appropriate size and will be easy to work with.\\nInstall a brake pedal to operate with your foot, regardless of what kind of acceleration you have. Don't leave too much to do with your hands other than steering.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the throttle cable to the hand throttle.\", \"描述\": \"Depending upon your experience and the kind of engine you're working with, you may be able to put together a foot pedal, or you may just need to make it easy and throttle-up like you would a lawnmower.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Double check your brakes and suspension system before test-driving.\", \"描述\": \"Even if you're going at relatively slow speeds, it's important to make sure you're not going to slip an axle on your first go-around. Double check your welds, your brakes, and the engine's mounting. Then take 'er for a spin!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try to add the extras at the end, so you can do all the big, more important, mechanical parts first.\\n\", \"The assembly does have an accelerator, which also can be added using a simple throttle cable assembly from a discarded push mower, or a more sophisticated foot operated gas pedal.\\n\", \"Get a go kart manual, as it will help and you can also get driving and tuning tips.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Test the go kart before going on the track, as the parts could detach or fail.\\n\", \"Because this is a simple project without high-tech engineering and design considerations, it is not recommended that a high gear ratio or large engine is used on this go kart. Speeds over 10–15 mph (16–24 km/h) can cause failure of insufficiently engineered components.\\n\", \"Wear protective gear when driving go carts: helmets, pads, etc.\\n\", \"This is not a real car and should not under any circumstances be driven on the road!\\n\", \"You must have an adult that is 18+ years old in order to build the go kart. Kids may not assemble any tools or put anything together, but they can help gather the tools needed.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,363
How to Build a Golf Green
1. Steps 1-1. Choose a location. Your green should be built on a spot that has sandy soil, plenty of sun and good drainage. The location must also allow for breezes to come through in order to keep the grass healthy. 1-2. Excavate the area of your golf green to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm). Be sure to remove all the existing sod so you don't have to contend with weeds. 1-3. Design the green. It should have a variety of slopes to challenge you, but ultimately slope away from the center. This will prevent puddles from forming after it rains. If you want to have a depression in your green, you must install a drain pipe beneath it to carry away the water. However, this won't work if you build a green in a climate where the puddle will freeze during winter. 1-4. Install the drainage system in 8-inch (20 cm) trenches to ensure that water will drain away from the center. Duct tape the connections and wrap the pipes so they won't come apart or you'll have to dig up your green to make repairs later. 1-5. Put in an irrigation system if necessary. Keep in mind that adequate, even irrigation is the key to keeping turf healthy. Watering your green with a garden hose is time-consuming and tends to irrigate unevenly. It's easiest to use your municipal water source if you do not live in an area that restricts water usage during droughts. If you choose a different water source (well, rainwater, gray water, etc.), you will have to more carefully monitor the effect of the water on your turf and irrigation system. Some water sources may clog sprinkler nozzles or introduce harmful chemicals. You can water your green with garden sprinklers or drip lines connected to timers, but you will spend a lot of time moving them on and off the green. An underground system with pop-up sprinklers can be fully automated. Install a residential sprinkler system rather than one designed for a golf course. Golf course irrigation systems operate at higher pressures in order to spread the water over a wider area. However, since you only have one green to irrigate, a residential system will work well and is less expensive. 1-6. Cover the area with a 4-inch (10 cm) layer of pea gravel. The gravel will hold water near the roots when you irrigate the green, but will allow water to pass through quickly during heavy rain so the grass doesn't drown. Compact the gravel layer. 1-7. Add 2 inches (5 cm) of sand on top of the gravel and compact it. 1-8. Top the sand with about 14 inches (35 cm) of topsoil that consists of 60 percent sand and no more than 20 percent clay. It's best if you buy the right soil and bring it in, but you can test the soil you've got to see if it meets USGA standards. Compact this layer. 1-9. Seed or sod your green. Sodding often results in an uneven green, so seed instead if you have the time and patience to care for the grass until it matures. The variety of grass you will use for your green will largely depend on your climate. 1-10. Mark the edges of your green by sodding the perimeter with rougher grass. You may want to add a vapor barrier around your green before sodding to keep the surrounding area from sucking water away or adding water to your green. 1-11. Buy your cups, pins and flags from a supplier of golf course equipment. You may also want a cup changer that will allow you to change the position of your cup. You will also need to buy a special mower and mow your new green every day. You might be able to pick up a used one for less than $5000.00. Tips Because of the difficulty and the need to meet precise standards, you may want to hire a contractor with experience in building golf greens to do the work.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:38", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Choose a location.\\nYour green should be built on a spot that has sandy soil, plenty of sun and good drainage. The location must also allow for breezes to come through in order to keep the grass healthy.\\n1-2. Excavate the area of your golf green to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm).\\nBe sure to remove all the existing sod so you don't have to contend with weeds.\\n1-3. Design the green.\\nIt should have a variety of slopes to challenge you, but ultimately slope away from the center. This will prevent puddles from forming after it rains.\\nIf you want to have a depression in your green, you must install a drain pipe beneath it to carry away the water. However, this won't work if you build a green in a climate where the puddle will freeze during winter.\\n1-4. Install the drainage system in 8-inch (20 cm) trenches to ensure that water will drain away from the center.\\nDuct tape the connections and wrap the pipes so they won't come apart or you'll have to dig up your green to make repairs later.\\n1-5. Put in an irrigation system if necessary.\\nKeep in mind that adequate, even irrigation is the key to keeping turf healthy. Watering your green with a garden hose is time-consuming and tends to irrigate unevenly.\\nIt's easiest to use your municipal water source if you do not live in an area that restricts water usage during droughts. If you choose a different water source (well, rainwater, gray water, etc.), you will have to more carefully monitor the effect of the water on your turf and irrigation system. Some water sources may clog sprinkler nozzles or introduce harmful chemicals.\\nYou can water your green with garden sprinklers or drip lines connected to timers, but you will spend a lot of time moving them on and off the green. An underground system with pop-up sprinklers can be fully automated.\\nInstall a residential sprinkler system rather than one designed for a golf course. Golf course irrigation systems operate at higher pressures in order to spread the water over a wider area. However, since you only have one green to irrigate, a residential system will work well and is less expensive.\\n1-6. Cover the area with a 4-inch (10 cm) layer of pea gravel.\\nThe gravel will hold water near the roots when you irrigate the green, but will allow water to pass through quickly during heavy rain so the grass doesn't drown. Compact the gravel layer.\\n1-7. Add 2 inches (5 cm) of sand on top of the gravel and compact it.\\n\\n1-8. Top the sand with about 14 inches (35 cm) of topsoil that consists of 60 percent sand and no more than 20 percent clay.\\nIt's best if you buy the right soil and bring it in, but you can test the soil you've got to see if it meets USGA standards. Compact this layer.\\n1-9. Seed or sod your green.\\nSodding often results in an uneven green, so seed instead if you have the time and patience to care for the grass until it matures. The variety of grass you will use for your green will largely depend on your climate.\\n1-10. Mark the edges of your green by sodding the perimeter with rougher grass.\\nYou may want to add a vapor barrier around your green before sodding to keep the surrounding area from sucking water away or adding water to your green.\\n1-11. Buy your cups, pins and flags from a supplier of golf course equipment.\\nYou may also want a cup changer that will allow you to change the position of your cup. You will also need to buy a special mower and mow your new green every day. You might be able to pick up a used one for less than $5000.00.\\nTips\\nBecause of the difficulty and the need to meet precise standards, you may want to hire a contractor with experience in building golf greens to do the work.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Many golf enthusiasts build golf greens in their back yards so they can practice putting without traveling to a golf course and paying fees. While you can build a golf green by grooming the grass you have or by planting grass, if you want a green that meets the standards of the U.S. Golf Association (USGA), you must excavate the area, bring in gravel and topsoil, and install irrigation and drainage systems.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a location.\", \"描述\": \"Your green should be built on a spot that has sandy soil, plenty of sun and good drainage. The location must also allow for breezes to come through in order to keep the grass healthy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Excavate the area of your golf green to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to remove all the existing sod so you don't have to contend with weeds.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design the green.\", \"描述\": \"It should have a variety of slopes to challenge you, but ultimately slope away from the center. This will prevent puddles from forming after it rains.\\nIf you want to have a depression in your green, you must install a drain pipe beneath it to carry away the water. However, this won't work if you build a green in a climate where the puddle will freeze during winter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the drainage system in 8-inch (20 cm) trenches to ensure that water will drain away from the center.\", \"描述\": \"Duct tape the connections and wrap the pipes so they won't come apart or you'll have to dig up your green to make repairs later.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put in an irrigation system if necessary.\", \"描述\": \"Keep in mind that adequate, even irrigation is the key to keeping turf healthy. Watering your green with a garden hose is time-consuming and tends to irrigate unevenly.\\nIt's easiest to use your municipal water source if you do not live in an area that restricts water usage during droughts. If you choose a different water source (well, rainwater, gray water, etc.), you will have to more carefully monitor the effect of the water on your turf and irrigation system. Some water sources may clog sprinkler nozzles or introduce harmful chemicals.\\nYou can water your green with garden sprinklers or drip lines connected to timers, but you will spend a lot of time moving them on and off the green. An underground system with pop-up sprinklers can be fully automated.\\nInstall a residential sprinkler system rather than one designed for a golf course. Golf course irrigation systems operate at higher pressures in order to spread the water over a wider area. However, since you only have one green to irrigate, a residential system will work well and is less expensive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cover the area with a 4-inch (10 cm) layer of pea gravel.\", \"描述\": \"The gravel will hold water near the roots when you irrigate the green, but will allow water to pass through quickly during heavy rain so the grass doesn't drown. Compact the gravel layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add 2 inches (5 cm) of sand on top of the gravel and compact it.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Top the sand with about 14 inches (35 cm) of topsoil that consists of 60 percent sand and no more than 20 percent clay.\", \"描述\": \"It's best if you buy the right soil and bring it in, but you can test the soil you've got to see if it meets USGA standards. Compact this layer.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Seed or sod your green.\", \"描述\": \"Sodding often results in an uneven green, so seed instead if you have the time and patience to care for the grass until it matures. The variety of grass you will use for your green will largely depend on your climate.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Mark the edges of your green by sodding the perimeter with rougher grass.\", \"描述\": \"You may want to add a vapor barrier around your green before sodding to keep the surrounding area from sucking water away or adding water to your green.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Buy your cups, pins and flags from a supplier of golf course equipment.\", \"描述\": \"You may also want a cup changer that will allow you to change the position of your cup. You will also need to buy a special mower and mow your new green every day. You might be able to pick up a used one for less than $5000.00.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Because of the difficulty and the need to meet precise standards, you may want to hire a contractor with experience in building golf greens to do the work.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,364
How to Build a Good Relationship With Your Husband
1. Communicating with Your Husband 1-1. Schedule periodic chats about your relationship. As you and your husband grow old together, both of your needs, desires, and interests may change. A few times a year, agree to discuss the state of your relationship. Use this time to express when your needs have changed. For example, you might say, “I feel as though I need some more time to myself” or “I would love it if we could spend more time together without the kids.” You can talk about marital and family matters on a frequent basis. You might talk about bills on a monthly basis or chat when your child hits major milestones. If sex is an issue, you might check-in once a week. 1-2. Tell your husband when something is bothering you. Don’t expect your husband to be a mind reader. If there is something that is upsetting, frustrating, or annoying you, tell him. Be respectful, however, as you do so. Don’t accuse, blame, or call your husband names. Instead, use “I” statements to help make your point less accusatory. For example, instead of saying, “why can’t you ever wash the dishes,” you might say, “I feel frustrated sometimes when I come home, and the house is still dirty. Would you mind washing the dishes after you use them?” These issues don’t just have to be about your husband either. If you had a bad day at work or if you’re annoyed about something, tell him. This can encourage him to cheer you up or help you through it. 1-3. Show gratitude to your husband when he does something well. Thank him even for small tasks. Expressing appreciation is essential to showing your husband that you are not taking him for granted. You want to share the positive as well as the negative. For example, you might say, “Thank you so much for picking up the groceries!” or “I’m so proud of you for getting that raise." If you asked your husband to do something, don’t forget to thank him afterwards. This will help encourage him to continue contributing. 1-4. Respect your husband’s privacy to demonstrate your trust. Trust is essential in a relationship. Your husband needs to know that you trust him, even when you are not around. This will help him trust you and create healthy boundaries in the relationship. Allow your husband to go out with friends and socialize without you. Express interest in his friends, but don't interrogate him about who he is hanging out with. Do not track your husband’s phone calls, social media accounts, or emails. Allow him to maintain his private life, and trust that he will tell you when something important comes up. At the same time, make sure that your husband respects your privacy. Don't be afraid to set boundaries or to ask for time alone. Watch out for being codependent. It's important that you have your own friends and hobbies outside of your relationship, as well. If you find yourself constantly tracking your husband, consider getting professional help from a therapist. 1-5. Ask your husband for help when you need it. Request his assistance politely and with respect. Explain why you want him to do something. Don't forget to thank him afterwards! For example, instead of saying “you need to fix the door this weekend,” you might say, “do you think you could take care of the door this weekend?” If he says no, work out a solution that works for both of you. For example, offer to pick up the necessary tools for him or ask if he would rather hire a handyman. Emphasize why you need his help as well. For example, you might say, “I have a meeting after work today, so I won’t be able to cook dinner. Can you handle it tonight?” If your husband asks you for help or to do something for him, don’t forget to come through on it. Both of you should assist the other when needed. 1-6. Remember that communication is a 2-way street. When you communicate with your husband, he should be expressing the same respect, trust, and openness back to you. If he does not, it may be time to talk to him about the issue. Your husband should show gratitude to you for the things that you do. He should ask respectfully when he needs something and respect your privacy. If he doesn't, you should ask him specifically to respect you in these ways. A marriage counselor can help in this regard. The counselor can teach you healthy communication practices in a safe space. 2. Keeping the Relationship Interesting 2-1. Go on regular dates together. Give yourself 1 date night every 1-2 weeks. Make sure that nothing else interferes with this night. Don’t bring any children along. Make these dates about just the 2 of you. This is the time to connect with each other and be more romantic with your husband. If you have children, hire a baby sitter for the night. You can also try going on dates during the weekend days when your child is at a friend’s house or with another family member. 2-2. Try new experiences together. If you and your husband keep doing the same things over and over again, you may be getting bored of your routine. Mix up your activities. Find a new experience together that the 2 of you both want to try. For example, you might go rock climbing or join a kickball team. Try taking a class together to learn a new skill. You could do pottery or cooking. You can include children in some of these experiences to make it a family activity. For example, go on a hike together, rent some canoes at a lake, or try a ropes course. 2-3. Foster your own interests and hobbies outside of the marriage. If you and your husband do absolutely everything together, it might cause you to feel bored, confined, or isolated. If this is the case, focus on your own interests. Try doing things without your husband. Remember to continue creating healthy friendships as well. This will give you things to do and people to talk to outside of your marriage. You can even go out with your friends without your husband. If your husband doesn’t share some interests with you, you should still pursue them. Try painting, gardening, running, or another activity. Remember to encourage your husband to do the same. Let your husband go out with his friends or spend time focusing on his interests. This will enforce healthy boundaries in your relationship. 3. Resolving Arguments and Problems 3-1. Cool down after arguments. If you and your husband had a fight, take time to cool down. Let him relax as well. When you’re both calm again, you can talk rationally. This time can also help you figure out why you were upset or what you need to make things better. If you need to, go to a separate room. Take deep breaths or distract yourself for a while with a different activity. 3-2. Express why you are upset. Focus on the complaint, not on your husband. By expressing your feelings and thoughts on the matter, your husband will learn why you are frustrated. If you criticize him, however, he may become defensive. For example, instead of saying, “You never pay attention to me,” you might say, “I get so lonely all day. When I come home, I need you to talk and cuddle with me." Starting sentences with “I” or “We” can help make your husband feel more comfortable. 3-3. Listen to your husband’s perspective. Your husband may have his own frustrations or complaints. Try not to get defensive when he expresses these. Don’t interrupt him either. Just let him talk and express his own side of things. Show that you’re listening by repeating back what your husband is saying to you. For example, you might say, “What I am hearing is that you want more excitement in our relationship.” If your husband won’t open up easily, tell him that you won’t get angry. Encourage him to open up to you. For example, you might say, “If something is bothering you, I want to know. I won’t be offended, I promise.” 3-4. Compromise with each other You and your husband may not agree on everything, and that’s okay. Remember to negotiate with your husband to ensure that you both are happy with the arrangement. For example, if you’re arguing about spending, you might each get a budget to spend on yourselves each month. Each of you will have to stay within this limit. Compromise means that you both have to sacrifice something. For example, your husband may want to visit his family, but you may not get along with them. As a compromise, you might go with him but ask that you both stay in a hotel room instead of at the family home. 3-5. Apologize when you have done something wrong. If you feel as though you have said or done something wrong, a simple “I’m sorry” can go a long way in patching things up between you and your husband. Be sincere. Admit what you did wrong. You might say, "I am sorry I yelled at you this morning. I'll try to be calmer in the future." If your husband apologizes to you, be sure to accept the apology. You can say, "Thank you. I appreciate the apology, and I forgive you." 3-6. See a marriage counselor if you cannot overcome your differences. If you and your husband fight constantly about the same things or if you feel dissatisfied in your marriage, it may be time to see a marriage counselor. A counselor can help teach you healthy conflict resolution skills and compromise. You don’t need to be struggling in your marriage to see a counselor. In fact, seeing a counselor once a year to check in may help improve an already strong relationship. If your husband refuses to go to marriage counseling, some therapists will see spouses individually. You can ask your doctor or a therapist for a referral to a counselor. Some religious houses of worship will also offer marriage counseling. 4. Maintaining a Healthy Sex Life 4-1. Establish a frequency that makes you both happy. Sit down with your partner and discuss whether you are currently happy with the level of intimacy in your relationship. If 1 spouse wants more intimacy than the other, discuss what you can do to make each other happy. There is no magic number for how much sex will make your relationship strong. The important thing is that both you and your husband are happy with it. 4-2. Touch each other more outside of the bedroom to restore intimacy. Touch is important for creating intimacy, even outside of sexual contact. Hug when you leave for work or kiss each other when you come home. Hold hands when you’re out in public. Cuddle on the couch or touch his shoulder when you talk. Your husband should also initiate touch with you. If he won't, try asking directly for more contact, such as hugs or cuddles. If this doesn't work, you may need to consult a marriage counselor. 4-3. Schedule intimacy into your calendar. While scheduled sex might not sound enticing, it actually can help your love life immensely. Once you put it on the calendar, make sure that no other commitments interfere with the time or date. Your husband and you can even plan special activities for that night, such as a date, intimate games, or role play. Make sure that you both agree on the schedule. Remind each other, if needed! 4-4. Tell your husband what you want out of sex. If you don’t express what you like, you may feel disappointed in the bedroom. Don’t be afraid to say what you like and what gives you pleasure. If you want to try something new, suggest it to your husband. Give your husband instructions during sex as well. These can help provide mutual pleasure for both you and your husband. Your husband may suggest new positions and activities too. If you're uncomfortable with 1 of your husband's suggestions, talk it out with him. Tell him why you don't want to do it. Tips Remember that the marriage is for both of you. Discussions should focus on how decisions affect the 2 of you, not just 1 spouse. Warnings If your husband verbally or physically assaults you, understand that it is not your fault. Marriage counseling rarely works in these cases. Your husband may need to attend anger management or abuse intervention therapy. You may also need to consider divorce.[23] X Trustworthy Source National Domestic Violence Hotline Organization providing lifesaving tools, support, and resources for victims and survivors of domestic abuse Go to source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Communicating with Your Husband\\n1-1. Schedule periodic chats about your relationship.\\nAs you and your husband grow old together, both of your needs, desires, and interests may change. A few times a year, agree to discuss the state of your relationship.\\nUse this time to express when your needs have changed. For example, you might say, “I feel as though I need some more time to myself” or “I would love it if we could spend more time together without the kids.”\\nYou can talk about marital and family matters on a frequent basis. You might talk about bills on a monthly basis or chat when your child hits major milestones. If sex is an issue, you might check-in once a week.\\n1-2. Tell your husband when something is bothering you.\\nDon’t expect your husband to be a mind reader. If there is something that is upsetting, frustrating, or annoying you, tell him. Be respectful, however, as you do so.\\nDon’t accuse, blame, or call your husband names. Instead, use “I” statements to help make your point less accusatory. For example, instead of saying, “why can’t you ever wash the dishes,” you might say, “I feel frustrated sometimes when I come home, and the house is still dirty. Would you mind washing the dishes after you use them?”\\nThese issues don’t just have to be about your husband either. If you had a bad day at work or if you’re annoyed about something, tell him. This can encourage him to cheer you up or help you through it.\\n1-3. Show gratitude to your husband when he does something well.\\nThank him even for small tasks. Expressing appreciation is essential to showing your husband that you are not taking him for granted. You want to share the positive as well as the negative.\\nFor example, you might say, “Thank you so much for picking up the groceries!” or “I’m so proud of you for getting that raise.\\\"\\nIf you asked your husband to do something, don’t forget to thank him afterwards. This will help encourage him to continue contributing.\\n1-4. Respect your husband’s privacy to demonstrate your trust.\\nTrust is essential in a relationship. Your husband needs to know that you trust him, even when you are not around. This will help him trust you and create healthy boundaries in the relationship.\\nAllow your husband to go out with friends and socialize without you. Express interest in his friends, but don't interrogate him about who he is hanging out with.\\nDo not track your husband’s phone calls, social media accounts, or emails. Allow him to maintain his private life, and trust that he will tell you when something important comes up.\\nAt the same time, make sure that your husband respects your privacy. Don't be afraid to set boundaries or to ask for time alone.\\nWatch out for being codependent. It's important that you have your own friends and hobbies outside of your relationship, as well. If you find yourself constantly tracking your husband, consider getting professional help from a therapist.\\n1-5. Ask your husband for help when you need it.\\nRequest his assistance politely and with respect. Explain why you want him to do something. Don't forget to thank him afterwards!\\nFor example, instead of saying “you need to fix the door this weekend,” you might say, “do you think you could take care of the door this weekend?” If he says no, work out a solution that works for both of you. For example, offer to pick up the necessary tools for him or ask if he would rather hire a handyman.\\nEmphasize why you need his help as well. For example, you might say, “I have a meeting after work today, so I won’t be able to cook dinner. Can you handle it tonight?”\\nIf your husband asks you for help or to do something for him, don’t forget to come through on it. Both of you should assist the other when needed.\\n1-6. Remember that communication is a 2-way street.\\nWhen you communicate with your husband, he should be expressing the same respect, trust, and openness back to you. If he does not, it may be time to talk to him about the issue.\\nYour husband should show gratitude to you for the things that you do. He should ask respectfully when he needs something and respect your privacy. If he doesn't, you should ask him specifically to respect you in these ways.\\nA marriage counselor can help in this regard. The counselor can teach you healthy communication practices in a safe space.\\n2. Keeping the Relationship Interesting\\n2-1. Go on regular dates together.\\nGive yourself 1 date night every 1-2 weeks. Make sure that nothing else interferes with this night. Don’t bring any children along. Make these dates about just the 2 of you. This is the time to connect with each other and be more romantic with your husband.\\nIf you have children, hire a baby sitter for the night. You can also try going on dates during the weekend days when your child is at a friend’s house or with another family member.\\n2-2. Try new experiences together.\\nIf you and your husband keep doing the same things over and over again, you may be getting bored of your routine. Mix up your activities. Find a new experience together that the 2 of you both want to try.\\nFor example, you might go rock climbing or join a kickball team.\\nTry taking a class together to learn a new skill. You could do pottery or cooking.\\nYou can include children in some of these experiences to make it a family activity. For example, go on a hike together, rent some canoes at a lake, or try a ropes course.\\n2-3. Foster your own interests and hobbies outside of the marriage.\\nIf you and your husband do absolutely everything together, it might cause you to feel bored, confined, or isolated. If this is the case, focus on your own interests. Try doing things without your husband.\\nRemember to continue creating healthy friendships as well. This will give you things to do and people to talk to outside of your marriage. You can even go out with your friends without your husband.\\nIf your husband doesn’t share some interests with you, you should still pursue them. Try painting, gardening, running, or another activity.\\nRemember to encourage your husband to do the same. Let your husband go out with his friends or spend time focusing on his interests. This will enforce healthy boundaries in your relationship.\\n3. Resolving Arguments and Problems\\n3-1. Cool down after arguments.\\nIf you and your husband had a fight, take time to cool down. Let him relax as well. When you’re both calm again, you can talk rationally. This time can also help you figure out why you were upset or what you need to make things better.\\nIf you need to, go to a separate room. Take deep breaths or distract yourself for a while with a different activity.\\n3-2. Express why you are upset.\\nFocus on the complaint, not on your husband. By expressing your feelings and thoughts on the matter, your husband will learn why you are frustrated. If you criticize him, however, he may become defensive.\\nFor example, instead of saying, “You never pay attention to me,” you might say, “I get so lonely all day. When I come home, I need you to talk and cuddle with me.\\\"\\nStarting sentences with “I” or “We” can help make your husband feel more comfortable.\\n3-3. Listen to your husband’s perspective.\\nYour husband may have his own frustrations or complaints. Try not to get defensive when he expresses these. Don’t interrupt him either. Just let him talk and express his own side of things.\\nShow that you’re listening by repeating back what your husband is saying to you. For example, you might say, “What I am hearing is that you want more excitement in our relationship.”\\nIf your husband won’t open up easily, tell him that you won’t get angry. Encourage him to open up to you. For example, you might say, “If something is bothering you, I want to know. I won’t be offended, I promise.”\\n3-4. Compromise with each other\\nYou and your husband may not agree on everything, and that’s okay. Remember to negotiate with your husband to ensure that you both are happy with the arrangement.\\nFor example, if you’re arguing about spending, you might each get a budget to spend on yourselves each month. Each of you will have to stay within this limit.\\nCompromise means that you both have to sacrifice something. For example, your husband may want to visit his family, but you may not get along with them. As a compromise, you might go with him but ask that you both stay in a hotel room instead of at the family home.\\n3-5. Apologize when you have done something wrong.\\nIf you feel as though you have said or done something wrong, a simple “I’m sorry” can go a long way in patching things up between you and your husband.\\nBe sincere. Admit what you did wrong. You might say, \\\"I am sorry I yelled at you this morning. I'll try to be calmer in the future.\\\"\\nIf your husband apologizes to you, be sure to accept the apology. You can say, \\\"Thank you. I appreciate the apology, and I forgive you.\\\"\\n3-6. See a marriage counselor if you cannot overcome your differences.\\nIf you and your husband fight constantly about the same things or if you feel dissatisfied in your marriage, it may be time to see a marriage counselor. A counselor can help teach you healthy conflict resolution skills and compromise.\\nYou don’t need to be struggling in your marriage to see a counselor. In fact, seeing a counselor once a year to check in may help improve an already strong relationship.\\nIf your husband refuses to go to marriage counseling, some therapists will see spouses individually.\\nYou can ask your doctor or a therapist for a referral to a counselor. Some religious houses of worship will also offer marriage counseling.\\n4. Maintaining a Healthy Sex Life\\n4-1. Establish a frequency that makes you both happy.\\nSit down with your partner and discuss whether you are currently happy with the level of intimacy in your relationship. If 1 spouse wants more intimacy than the other, discuss what you can do to make each other happy.\\nThere is no magic number for how much sex will make your relationship strong. The important thing is that both you and your husband are happy with it.\\n4-2. Touch each other more outside of the bedroom to restore intimacy.\\nTouch is important for creating intimacy, even outside of sexual contact. Hug when you leave for work or kiss each other when you come home. Hold hands when you’re out in public. Cuddle on the couch or touch his shoulder when you talk.\\nYour husband should also initiate touch with you. If he won't, try asking directly for more contact, such as hugs or cuddles. If this doesn't work, you may need to consult a marriage counselor.\\n4-3. Schedule intimacy into your calendar.\\nWhile scheduled sex might not sound enticing, it actually can help your love life immensely. Once you put it on the calendar, make sure that no other commitments interfere with the time or date.\\nYour husband and you can even plan special activities for that night, such as a date, intimate games, or role play.\\nMake sure that you both agree on the schedule. Remind each other, if needed!\\n4-4. Tell your husband what you want out of sex.\\nIf you don’t express what you like, you may feel disappointed in the bedroom. Don’t be afraid to say what you like and what gives you pleasure. If you want to try something new, suggest it to your husband.\\nGive your husband instructions during sex as well. These can help provide mutual pleasure for both you and your husband.\\nYour husband may suggest new positions and activities too. If you're uncomfortable with 1 of your husband's suggestions, talk it out with him. Tell him why you don't want to do it.\\nTips\\nRemember that the marriage is for both of you. Discussions should focus on how decisions affect the 2 of you, not just 1 spouse.\\nWarnings\\nIf your husband verbally or physically assaults you, understand that it is not your fault. Marriage counseling rarely works in these cases. Your husband may need to attend anger management or abuse intervention therapy. You may also need to consider divorce.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNational Domestic Violence Hotline\\nOrganization providing lifesaving tools, support, and resources for victims and survivors of domestic abuse\\nGo to source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Whether you’ve just gotten married or you’re approaching a major anniversary, it is always a good time to work on your relationship with your husband. Make sure that both you and your husband can clearly explain your needs and desires. Spending time together and improving intimacy can add a new spark to your relationship. While arguments are natural in any relationship, make sure you solve yours in a healthy manner.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Communicating with Your Husband\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Schedule periodic chats about your relationship.\", \"描述\": \"As you and your husband grow old together, both of your needs, desires, and interests may change. A few times a year, agree to discuss the state of your relationship.\\nUse this time to express when your needs have changed. For example, you might say, “I feel as though I need some more time to myself” or “I would love it if we could spend more time together without the kids.”\\nYou can talk about marital and family matters on a frequent basis. You might talk about bills on a monthly basis or chat when your child hits major milestones. If sex is an issue, you might check-in once a week.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tell your husband when something is bothering you.\", \"描述\": \"Don’t expect your husband to be a mind reader. If there is something that is upsetting, frustrating, or annoying you, tell him. Be respectful, however, as you do so.\\nDon’t accuse, blame, or call your husband names. Instead, use “I” statements to help make your point less accusatory. For example, instead of saying, “why can’t you ever wash the dishes,” you might say, “I feel frustrated sometimes when I come home, and the house is still dirty. Would you mind washing the dishes after you use them?”\\nThese issues don’t just have to be about your husband either. If you had a bad day at work or if you’re annoyed about something, tell him. This can encourage him to cheer you up or help you through it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Show gratitude to your husband when he does something well.\", \"描述\": \"Thank him even for small tasks. Expressing appreciation is essential to showing your husband that you are not taking him for granted. You want to share the positive as well as the negative.\\nFor example, you might say, “Thank you so much for picking up the groceries!” or “I’m so proud of you for getting that raise.\\\"\\nIf you asked your husband to do something, don’t forget to thank him afterwards. This will help encourage him to continue contributing.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Respect your husband’s privacy to demonstrate your trust.\", \"描述\": \"Trust is essential in a relationship. Your husband needs to know that you trust him, even when you are not around. This will help him trust you and create healthy boundaries in the relationship.\\nAllow your husband to go out with friends and socialize without you. Express interest in his friends, but don't interrogate him about who he is hanging out with.\\nDo not track your husband’s phone calls, social media accounts, or emails. Allow him to maintain his private life, and trust that he will tell you when something important comes up.\\nAt the same time, make sure that your husband respects your privacy. Don't be afraid to set boundaries or to ask for time alone.\\nWatch out for being codependent. It's important that you have your own friends and hobbies outside of your relationship, as well. If you find yourself constantly tracking your husband, consider getting professional help from a therapist.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Ask your husband for help when you need it.\", \"描述\": \"Request his assistance politely and with respect. Explain why you want him to do something. Don't forget to thank him afterwards!\\nFor example, instead of saying “you need to fix the door this weekend,” you might say, “do you think you could take care of the door this weekend?” If he says no, work out a solution that works for both of you. For example, offer to pick up the necessary tools for him or ask if he would rather hire a handyman.\\nEmphasize why you need his help as well. For example, you might say, “I have a meeting after work today, so I won’t be able to cook dinner. Can you handle it tonight?”\\nIf your husband asks you for help or to do something for him, don’t forget to come through on it. Both of you should assist the other when needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remember that communication is a 2-way street.\", \"描述\": \"When you communicate with your husband, he should be expressing the same respect, trust, and openness back to you. If he does not, it may be time to talk to him about the issue.\\nYour husband should show gratitude to you for the things that you do. He should ask respectfully when he needs something and respect your privacy. If he doesn't, you should ask him specifically to respect you in these ways.\\nA marriage counselor can help in this regard. The counselor can teach you healthy communication practices in a safe space.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keeping the Relationship Interesting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go on regular dates together.\", \"描述\": \"Give yourself 1 date night every 1-2 weeks. Make sure that nothing else interferes with this night. Don’t bring any children along. Make these dates about just the 2 of you. This is the time to connect with each other and be more romantic with your husband.\\nIf you have children, hire a baby sitter for the night. You can also try going on dates during the weekend days when your child is at a friend’s house or with another family member.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try new experiences together.\", \"描述\": \"If you and your husband keep doing the same things over and over again, you may be getting bored of your routine. Mix up your activities. Find a new experience together that the 2 of you both want to try.\\nFor example, you might go rock climbing or join a kickball team.\\nTry taking a class together to learn a new skill. You could do pottery or cooking.\\nYou can include children in some of these experiences to make it a family activity. For example, go on a hike together, rent some canoes at a lake, or try a ropes course.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Foster your own interests and hobbies outside of the marriage.\", \"描述\": \"If you and your husband do absolutely everything together, it might cause you to feel bored, confined, or isolated. If this is the case, focus on your own interests. Try doing things without your husband.\\nRemember to continue creating healthy friendships as well. This will give you things to do and people to talk to outside of your marriage. You can even go out with your friends without your husband.\\nIf your husband doesn’t share some interests with you, you should still pursue them. Try painting, gardening, running, or another activity.\\nRemember to encourage your husband to do the same. Let your husband go out with his friends or spend time focusing on his interests. This will enforce healthy boundaries in your relationship.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Resolving Arguments and Problems\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cool down after arguments.\", \"描述\": \"If you and your husband had a fight, take time to cool down. Let him relax as well. When you’re both calm again, you can talk rationally. This time can also help you figure out why you were upset or what you need to make things better.\\nIf you need to, go to a separate room. Take deep breaths or distract yourself for a while with a different activity.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Express why you are upset.\", \"描述\": \"Focus on the complaint, not on your husband. By expressing your feelings and thoughts on the matter, your husband will learn why you are frustrated. If you criticize him, however, he may become defensive.\\nFor example, instead of saying, “You never pay attention to me,” you might say, “I get so lonely all day. When I come home, I need you to talk and cuddle with me.\\\"\\nStarting sentences with “I” or “We” can help make your husband feel more comfortable.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Listen to your husband’s perspective.\", \"描述\": \"Your husband may have his own frustrations or complaints. Try not to get defensive when he expresses these. Don’t interrupt him either. Just let him talk and express his own side of things.\\nShow that you’re listening by repeating back what your husband is saying to you. For example, you might say, “What I am hearing is that you want more excitement in our relationship.”\\nIf your husband won’t open up easily, tell him that you won’t get angry. Encourage him to open up to you. For example, you might say, “If something is bothering you, I want to know. I won’t be offended, I promise.”\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Compromise with each other\", \"描述\": \"You and your husband may not agree on everything, and that’s okay. Remember to negotiate with your husband to ensure that you both are happy with the arrangement.\\nFor example, if you’re arguing about spending, you might each get a budget to spend on yourselves each month. Each of you will have to stay within this limit.\\nCompromise means that you both have to sacrifice something. For example, your husband may want to visit his family, but you may not get along with them. As a compromise, you might go with him but ask that you both stay in a hotel room instead of at the family home.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Apologize when you have done something wrong.\", \"描述\": \"If you feel as though you have said or done something wrong, a simple “I’m sorry” can go a long way in patching things up between you and your husband.\\nBe sincere. Admit what you did wrong. You might say, \\\"I am sorry I yelled at you this morning. I'll try to be calmer in the future.\\\"\\nIf your husband apologizes to you, be sure to accept the apology. You can say, \\\"Thank you. I appreciate the apology, and I forgive you.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"See a marriage counselor if you cannot overcome your differences.\", \"描述\": \"If you and your husband fight constantly about the same things or if you feel dissatisfied in your marriage, it may be time to see a marriage counselor. A counselor can help teach you healthy conflict resolution skills and compromise.\\nYou don’t need to be struggling in your marriage to see a counselor. In fact, seeing a counselor once a year to check in may help improve an already strong relationship.\\nIf your husband refuses to go to marriage counseling, some therapists will see spouses individually.\\nYou can ask your doctor or a therapist for a referral to a counselor. Some religious houses of worship will also offer marriage counseling.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Maintaining a Healthy Sex Life\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Establish a frequency that makes you both happy.\", \"描述\": \"Sit down with your partner and discuss whether you are currently happy with the level of intimacy in your relationship. If 1 spouse wants more intimacy than the other, discuss what you can do to make each other happy.\\nThere is no magic number for how much sex will make your relationship strong. The important thing is that both you and your husband are happy with it.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Touch each other more outside of the bedroom to restore intimacy.\", \"描述\": \"Touch is important for creating intimacy, even outside of sexual contact. Hug when you leave for work or kiss each other when you come home. Hold hands when you’re out in public. Cuddle on the couch or touch his shoulder when you talk.\\nYour husband should also initiate touch with you. If he won't, try asking directly for more contact, such as hugs or cuddles. If this doesn't work, you may need to consult a marriage counselor.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Schedule intimacy into your calendar.\", \"描述\": \"While scheduled sex might not sound enticing, it actually can help your love life immensely. Once you put it on the calendar, make sure that no other commitments interfere with the time or date.\\nYour husband and you can even plan special activities for that night, such as a date, intimate games, or role play.\\nMake sure that you both agree on the schedule. Remind each other, if needed!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tell your husband what you want out of sex.\", \"描述\": \"If you don’t express what you like, you may feel disappointed in the bedroom. Don’t be afraid to say what you like and what gives you pleasure. If you want to try something new, suggest it to your husband.\\nGive your husband instructions during sex as well. These can help provide mutual pleasure for both you and your husband.\\nYour husband may suggest new positions and activities too. If you're uncomfortable with 1 of your husband's suggestions, talk it out with him. Tell him why you don't want to do it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Remember that the marriage is for both of you. Discussions should focus on how decisions affect the 2 of you, not just 1 spouse.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"If your husband verbally or physically assaults you, understand that it is not your fault. Marriage counseling rarely works in these cases. Your husband may need to attend anger management or abuse intervention therapy. You may also need to consider divorce.[23]\\nX\\nTrustworthy Source\\nNational Domestic Violence Hotline\\nOrganization providing lifesaving tools, support, and resources for victims and survivors of domestic abuse\\nGo to source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,365
How to Build a Grass Landing Strip
1. Site Selection Consider the following factors: Flatness and/or the amount of work required to level the area. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/b\/ba\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/b\/ba\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Direction of prevailing winds and/or seasonal cross-winds. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/62\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/62\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Drainage of area. Slight sloping (2% maximum grade) is okay. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/b\/b3\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/b\/b3\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Cost of construction. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/a\/a5\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/a\/a5\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Access to buildings and or roads. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/4\/4d\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/4\/4d\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Local, State and National guidelines governing private airstrips. Crosswind strip if crosswinds are common in your area. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/6\/6c\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/6\/6c\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Safe, barrier free approaches, even if strip will never be used at night. 2. Soil Stability especially in poor weather. Note: The suitability of the soil to grow grass often correlates with the suitability of the soil for a landing strip. Too much clay will produce a soupy mess when wet, for example. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/d\/dc\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/d\/dc\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 3. Minimum Dimensions Dimensions: 75 feet (22.9 m) wide in open grassy areas {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/4\/41\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/4\/41\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 200 feet (61.0 m) wide in wooded areas {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/7d\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/7d\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 3,200 feet (975.4 m) in length. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/19\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/19\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Note: You must take altitude and average maximum temperature at the hottest time of the year into consideration when planning landing strip length to allow for diminished engine power under conditions for your area. Consult a runway and landing strip nomograph for your area. 4. Preparations for Construction 4-1. Clear entire area. 4-2. Completely remove roots of trees and shrubs. 4-3. Fill in low areas. 4-4. Eliminate any breaks in grade or surface mounds as well as any ditches. 4-5. Fill in and compact the soil in any animal burrows. 4-6. Remove any obstructions at the ends of the strip. Power lines, trees, etc should be removed, lowered and/or lighted. 4-7. Grade the strip 6 inches (15.2 cm) higher in the middle to improve drainage. Stabilize with topsoil and grass seeding if necessary. 4-8. Mark airstrip boundaries in such a way as to be visible from the air. 4-9. Install a wind cone or tetrahedron and mark a circular area around it to draw attention to it from the air. 4-10. Create a tie-down area away from the airstrip. Tips The applicable Federal Aviation Regulation is FAR part 157. It states that anyone proposing to build a personal or private use airport (used solely under VFR conditions, located more than 20 nautical miles from an airport for which an instrument approach procedure is authorized and located more than five nautical miles from any airport open to the public) must submit FAA form 7480-1 at least 30 days before work is to begin. You may at the same time request that your strip be shown on the FAA sectional chart with a notation as to the nature of the strip... private... cattle on field, etc. Any person proposing to establish, alter or deactivate a landing strip or area is required to give prior notice to the Federal Aviation Administration. This notice is accomplished through the submission of FAA form 7480-1. Warnings This information is gleaned from multiple web sources. (see below)
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Site Selection\\nConsider the following factors:\\nFlatness and/or the amount of work required to level the area.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/ba\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/ba\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDirection of prevailing winds and/or seasonal cross-winds.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/62\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/62\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDrainage of area. Slight sloping (2% maximum grade) is okay.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b3\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b3\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCost of construction.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAccess to buildings and or roads.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nLocal, State and National guidelines governing private airstrips.\\nCrosswind strip if crosswinds are common in your area.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6c\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6c\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSafe, barrier free approaches, even if strip will never be used at night.\\n2. Soil\\nStability especially in poor weather.\\nNote: The suitability of the soil to grow grass often correlates with the suitability of the soil for a landing strip. Too much clay will produce a soupy mess when wet, for example.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/dc\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/dc\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3. Minimum Dimensions\\nDimensions:\\n75 feet (22.9 m) wide in open grassy areas\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/41\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/41\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n200 feet (61.0 m) wide in wooded areas\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3,200 feet (975.4 m) in length.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/19\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/19\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nNote: You must take altitude and average maximum temperature at the hottest time of the year into consideration when planning landing strip length to allow for diminished engine power under conditions for your area. Consult a runway and landing strip nomograph for your area.\\n4. Preparations for Construction\\n4-1. Clear entire area.\\n\\n4-2. Completely remove roots of trees and shrubs.\\n\\n4-3. Fill in low areas.\\n\\n4-4. Eliminate any breaks in grade or surface mounds as well as any ditches.\\n\\n4-5. Fill in and compact the soil in any animal burrows.\\n\\n4-6. Remove any obstructions at the ends of the strip.\\nPower lines, trees, etc should be removed, lowered and/or lighted.\\n4-7. Grade the strip 6 inches (15.2 cm) higher in the middle to improve drainage.\\nStabilize with topsoil and grass seeding if necessary.\\n4-8. Mark airstrip boundaries in such a way as to be visible from the air.\\n\\n4-9. Install a wind cone or tetrahedron and mark a circular area around it to draw attention to it from the air.\\n\\n4-10. Create a tie-down area away from the airstrip.\\n\\nTips\\nThe applicable Federal Aviation Regulation is FAR part 157. It states that anyone proposing to build a personal or private use airport (used solely under VFR conditions, located more than 20 nautical miles from an airport for which an instrument approach procedure is authorized and located more than five nautical miles from any airport open to the public) must submit FAA form 7480-1 at least 30 days before work is to begin. You may at the same time request that your strip be shown on the FAA sectional chart with a notation as to the nature of the strip... private... cattle on field, etc.\\nAny person proposing to establish, alter or deactivate a landing strip or area is required to give prior notice to the Federal Aviation Administration. This notice is accomplished through the submission of FAA form 7480-1.\\nWarnings\\nThis information is gleaned from multiple web sources. (see below)\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own airstrip is complex and would ordinarily take more space than is normally available in a wikiHow article, so this article will limit itself to the basics only, while giving links to more in-depth sources below.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Site Selection\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consider the following factors:\", \"描述\": \"Flatness and/or the amount of work required to level the area.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/ba\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/ba\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDirection of prevailing winds and/or seasonal cross-winds.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/62\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/62\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nDrainage of area. Slight sloping (2% maximum grade) is okay.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b3\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b3\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCost of construction.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nAccess to buildings and or roads.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/4d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet5.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nLocal, State and National guidelines governing private airstrips.\\nCrosswind strip if crosswinds are common in your area.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6c\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/6\\\\/6c\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-1Bullet7.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSafe, barrier free approaches, even if strip will never be used at night.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Soil\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Stability especially in poor weather.\", \"描述\": \"Note: The suitability of the soil to grow grass often correlates with the suitability of the soil for a landing strip. Too much clay will produce a soupy mess when wet, for example.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/dc\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/d\\\\/dc\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Minimum Dimensions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dimensions:\", \"描述\": \"75 feet (22.9 m) wide in open grassy areas\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/41\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/4\\\\/41\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n200 feet (61.0 m) wide in wooded areas\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7d\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n3,200 feet (975.4 m) in length.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/19\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/19\\\\/Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid229012-v4-728px-Build-a-Grass-Landing-Strip-Step-3Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nNote: You must take altitude and average maximum temperature at the hottest time of the year into consideration when planning landing strip length to allow for diminished engine power under conditions for your area. Consult a runway and landing strip nomograph for your area.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Preparations for Construction\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Clear entire area.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Completely remove roots of trees and shrubs.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill in low areas.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Eliminate any breaks in grade or surface mounds as well as any ditches.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Fill in and compact the soil in any animal burrows.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Remove any obstructions at the ends of the strip.\", \"描述\": \"Power lines, trees, etc should be removed, lowered and/or lighted.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Grade the strip 6 inches (15.2 cm) higher in the middle to improve drainage.\", \"描述\": \"Stabilize with topsoil and grass seeding if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Mark airstrip boundaries in such a way as to be visible from the air.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install a wind cone or tetrahedron and mark a circular area around it to draw attention to it from the air.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Create a tie-down area away from the airstrip.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The applicable Federal Aviation Regulation is FAR part 157. It states that anyone proposing to build a personal or private use airport (used solely under VFR conditions, located more than 20 nautical miles from an airport for which an instrument approach procedure is authorized and located more than five nautical miles from any airport open to the public) must submit FAA form 7480-1 at least 30 days before work is to begin. You may at the same time request that your strip be shown on the FAA sectional chart with a notation as to the nature of the strip... private... cattle on field, etc.\\n\", \"Any person proposing to establish, alter or deactivate a landing strip or area is required to give prior notice to the Federal Aviation Administration. This notice is accomplished through the submission of FAA form 7480-1.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"This information is gleaned from multiple web sources. (see below)\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,366
How to Build a Greenhouse
1. Choosing a Location 1-1. Choose a south or north (depending on location) facing area. The main element required for a greenhouse is good consistent sunlight. All structures should be to the north of the greenhouse. One of the main greenhouse structures is a lean-to. Choosing a south wall of a building is a good option. 1-2. Give preferences to locations that have morning sun over afternoon sun. Although all-day sun is the best option, opening up the area to morning light will increase the growth of the plants. If there are trees or bushes near the greenhouse location, ensure they do not give a shadow until late afternoon. 1-3. Pay attention to winter versus summer sun. If the area to the east is open and sunny, it will get more sun November through February. Winter sun has a lower angle, so trees, houses and other structures are more likely to pose a problem. Do not choose a location near evergreen trees. Deciduous trees lose their leaves and will not shade the location in the winter, when the greenhouse requires more sun. 1-4. Choose a location that has access to electricity. Most greenhouses require some heat and ventilation to keep the temperature optimal. If you build a lean-to, you may be able to extend power from the house. A separate building may require hiring an electrician. 1-5. Pick a well-drained area. You will need to syphon away excess rainwater. If your location is uneven, you may need to fill in the area to encourage drainage. You may be able to use cisterns to catch rainwater falling from the eaves of your greenhouse. Any conservation of water and electricity will help keep greenhouse costs low. 2. Choosing a Structure 2-1. Measure your location. Whether you build the greenhouse from scratch or build it with a kit, you should choose the size carefully. The larger the greenhouse, the more money it will cost to build and heat. The most popular greenhouse size is 8 by 6 feet (2.4 by 1.8 m). 2-2. Choose a greenhouse kit, if you have little experience building or few people to help you erect the greenhouse. You can get a pop-up or polycarbonate greenhouse from home improvement stores and Amazon for as little as $150. Larger, sturdier models range from $500 to $5,000 depending upon size. Look at websites like Costco.com, Home Depot, or Greenhouses.com. A mini greenhouse is suitable for people who want to do gardening in a limited space. You can measure the space where you want to install a mini greenhouse. Look at all the models that are good for that space and choose the one with the shape and design you like. Buy it and install it according to the instructions given on the package. 2-3. Make a lean-to. If you have chosen an area against a building, you may as well construct a simple lean-structure that uses the remaining wall as support. If you have a brick structure, the heat from the building can help you keep a steady, warm temperature. This is a fairly easy structure to make yourself. You can support it with rebar, wooden beams and fewer supports that an offset building. 2-4. Build a Quonset frame. This is a domed ceiling that can be made with steel supports or PVC tubing (PVC does contains several carcinogenic estrogen mimickers that are water soluble, ldpe tubing is more expensive but a saver alternative.). The domed shape means there is less head and storage space that rectangular models. This shape can be built with little cost; however, the less expensive the material, the less sturdy it is likely to be. 2-5. Pick a rigid frame. With this design, you will need a foundation and a frame. Unless you are a designer, you will want to buy a plan for a greenhouse or employ someone to build it. A rigid frame, post and rafter or A-frame greenhouse will need a foundation and a sturdy frame. You will need the help of friends or employees to help you build a large framed greenhouse. 3. Choosing Covering Materials 3-1. Use UV-stabilized polyethylene which is cheap but contains BPA's or the more expensive but non toxic LDPE grow tarps which last for longer. It is UV-stabilized. Plastic film has to be replaced every few years PET plastic has a shorter life expectancy then the non toxic LDPE plastic. It must be washed occasionally. It will not hold heat as well as glass, but is adequate for lean-tos, quonsets and small stand-alone framed greenhouses. 3-2. Use hard, double-walled plastic such as multi wall polycarbonate or corrugated polycarbonate or the more expensive but non BPA containing acrylic (Plexiglas) which has a higher light transparency. Polycarbonate can be curved slightly around the frame and it has an energy savings of up to 30 percent, because it is double-walled. Polycarbonate is 200 times stronger than glass so it won't chip or crack during construction.Polycarbonate also has high light transmission and is UV-stabilized, but does contains toxins such as BPA`s that are water soluble. Acrylic has more light transparency but is not as strong (yet still stronger then glass) 80 percent of light filters through polycarbonate. 90% filters true Acrylic. 3-3. You could buy fiberglass if you are building a framed greenhouse, you can save money by choosing fiberglass over glass as the roof construction can be lighter of construction. Fiberglass will turn yellow and lose transparency in a few years. Acrylic is more expensive but has higher transparency and stays clear up to 10 years. Choose clear fiberglass or even better Acrylic. It will need a new coat of resin every 10 to 15 years. Invest in higher-grade fiberglass. Light transmission is greatly reduced on low-grade fiberglass or just buy Acrylic. This will save you approximately 25% in cost compared to glass and is easier to work with. 3-4. Choose glass. This is the most attractive material, if you are building a greenhouse that will accentuate your house or garden. Glass is very fragile and is expensive to replace when it breaks, but on the other side acrylic, fiberglass and polycarbonate needs replacing over time. You must build a framed greenhouse with a foundation, any misalignment because of settling can cause damage. Tempered glass is preferable because it is stronger than regular glass, consider using hardened glass for the roof. A 4mm thickness of float glass is suggested if you are in an area prone to hail. If you are going to the expense of installing a glass greenhouse, you should consider bids from construction companies to ensure the foundation and frame can handle the weight. Greenhouse deconstruction companies can be a source of very cheap glass, second hand glass can be cheaper then new bought plastic variants. 4. Constructing the Frame 4-1. Use strings along the ground to measure where you want the supports to be set. Pound stakes in the ground 4-2. Reinforce with rebar. If you are building a lean-to or Quonset, you can reinforce your frame with rebar and PVC or a non toxic variant. Pound rebar into the ground every 4 feet (1.2 m). Leave 48 inches (121.9 cm) protruding from the ground. Once the rebar is set, you can loop 20-foot sections of tubing over the rebar to create your frame. Stretch your plastic film (preferably a non toxic type of plastic) over the frame and attach it to beams at the bottom. 4-3. Pour gravel on the ground in an even layer, after your supports are driven into the ground. Small, loose gravel allows for extra drainage in a greenhouse environment. Hire builders to pour concrete, if you need a foundation. They will need to bring in concrete forms and pour the floor of your greenhouse before it can be framed. 4-4. Treat any wood you use before using it, be aware and informed what you use for treatment not every coating and treatment is suitable to be in contact with food products. Untreated wood can degrade in as little as 3 years. Choose your wood treatment carefully. Some wood treatments require that the food is no longer listed as “organic” or safe for consumption because of the use of chemicals. Consider a treatment like Erdalith, which has limited leaching properties. Use metal supports in place of wood supports whenever possible. 4-5. Seal the covering to the frame as closely as you can. You may be able to simply bolt film to wood. The more expensive the covering, such as glass, fiberglass, or double walled plastic, the more time you should take to seal it to the foundation and frame. Research the best procedure for the covering of your choice. 5. Controlling Temperature 5-1. Place fans in the corners of the greenhouse. Set up fans so that they are diagonal and create a airflow. They should run almost constantly during the winter months, to ensure the entire greenhouse is benefiting from the heater. 5-2. Install vents in the ceiling of your greenhouse. They can also be located near the top of the supports. Some ventilation of carbon dioxide is essential. The vents should be adjustable. You will need to open them wider in the summer months. 5-3. Consider installing an electric heater. Solar heat may only account for 25 percent of the heat in your greenhouse, so a backup heater is essential. You can also use a wood or oil-based heater, but it must be vented to the outside to ensure good air quality, carbon dioxide poising is a real danger to be looked out for in such a close space. You should check with your town or council to see what heating options are available in your area. 5-4. Install a forced-air system, if you are using a glass-frame greenhouse. If you can afford to outfit your greenhouse with its own temperature control system, then you can set it up to grow almost anything. Employ an electrician and a contractor to install your system. It may need regular maintenance to ensure it can handle ventilation and heating in the winter. 5-5. Install thermometers or thermostats. You should install several thermometers in case 1 breaks. Place them at different levels of the greenhouse so that you can observe the temperature in your greenhouse at all times. You can buy a thermometer that measures the temperature inside your house and inside your greenhouse, so that you can watch it closely during the winter months. 6. Additional Greenhouse Planning 6-1. Study planting conditions for the plants you want to grow. The more sensitive the plant is to changes in heat, the less likely you will be able to grow other plants in the same section. A cool house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants from freezing. It is ideal for temporary greenhouses. A hot house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants in tropical temperatures. You will need to choose what the temperature will be and keep it steady. It is not possible to create different zones in an open greenhouse. 6-2. Ensure you have a steady water supply. Ideally it should be supplied by hose water and cisterns. 6-3. Construct raised beds inside your greenhouse. Slatted tables can be used in the meantime, since they will allow water to drain through the table and into the gravel. If possible, construct the beds to the primary gardener’s height to limit ergonomic problems.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Choosing a Location\\n1-1. Choose a south or north (depending on location) facing area.\\nThe main element required for a greenhouse is good consistent sunlight.\\nAll structures should be to the north of the greenhouse.\\nOne of the main greenhouse structures is a lean-to. Choosing a south wall of a building is a good option.\\n1-2. Give preferences to locations that have morning sun over afternoon sun.\\nAlthough all-day sun is the best option, opening up the area to morning light will increase the growth of the plants.\\nIf there are trees or bushes near the greenhouse location, ensure they do not give a shadow until late afternoon.\\n1-3. Pay attention to winter versus summer sun.\\nIf the area to the east is open and sunny, it will get more sun November through February. \\nWinter sun has a lower angle, so trees, houses and other structures are more likely to pose a problem.\\nDo not choose a location near evergreen trees. Deciduous trees lose their leaves and will not shade the location in the winter, when the greenhouse requires more sun.\\n1-4. Choose a location that has access to electricity.\\nMost greenhouses require some heat and ventilation to keep the temperature optimal.\\nIf you build a lean-to, you may be able to extend power from the house.\\nA separate building may require hiring an electrician.\\n1-5. Pick a well-drained area.\\nYou will need to syphon away excess rainwater.\\nIf your location is uneven, you may need to fill in the area to encourage drainage.\\nYou may be able to use cisterns to catch rainwater falling from the eaves of your greenhouse. Any conservation of water and electricity will help keep greenhouse costs low.\\n2. Choosing a Structure\\n2-1. Measure your location.\\nWhether you build the greenhouse from scratch or build it with a kit, you should choose the size carefully.\\nThe larger the greenhouse, the more money it will cost to build and heat.\\nThe most popular greenhouse size is 8 by 6 feet (2.4 by 1.8 m).\\n2-2. Choose a greenhouse kit, if you have little experience building or few people to help you erect the greenhouse.\\nYou can get a pop-up or polycarbonate greenhouse from home improvement stores and Amazon for as little as $150.\\nLarger, sturdier models range from $500 to $5,000 depending upon size.\\nLook at websites like Costco.com, Home Depot, or Greenhouses.com.\\nA mini greenhouse is suitable for people who want to do gardening in a limited space.\\nYou can measure the space where you want to install a mini greenhouse.\\nLook at all the models that are good for that space and choose the one with the shape and design you like. Buy it and install it according to the instructions given on the package.\\n2-3. Make a lean-to.\\nIf you have chosen an area against a building, you may as well construct a simple lean-structure that uses the remaining wall as support.\\nIf you have a brick structure, the heat from the building can help you keep a steady, warm temperature.\\nThis is a fairly easy structure to make yourself. You can support it with rebar, wooden beams and fewer supports that an offset building.\\n2-4. Build a Quonset frame.\\nThis is a domed ceiling that can be made with steel supports or PVC tubing (PVC does contains several carcinogenic estrogen mimickers that are water soluble, ldpe tubing is more expensive but a saver alternative.).\\nThe domed shape means there is less head and storage space that rectangular models.\\nThis shape can be built with little cost; however, the less expensive the material, the less sturdy it is likely to be.\\n2-5. Pick a rigid frame.\\nWith this design, you will need a foundation and a frame. Unless you are a designer, you will want to buy a plan for a greenhouse or employ someone to build it.\\nA rigid frame, post and rafter or A-frame greenhouse will need a foundation and a sturdy frame.\\nYou will need the help of friends or employees to help you build a large framed greenhouse.\\n3. Choosing Covering Materials\\n3-1. Use UV-stabilized polyethylene which is cheap but contains BPA's or the more expensive but non toxic LDPE grow tarps which last for longer.\\nIt is UV-stabilized.\\nPlastic film has to be replaced every few years PET plastic has a shorter life expectancy then the non toxic LDPE plastic.\\nIt must be washed occasionally.\\nIt will not hold heat as well as glass, but is adequate for lean-tos, quonsets and small stand-alone framed greenhouses.\\n3-2. Use hard, double-walled plastic such as multi wall polycarbonate or corrugated polycarbonate or the more expensive but non BPA containing acrylic (Plexiglas) which has a higher light transparency.\\nPolycarbonate can be curved slightly around the frame and it has an energy savings of up to 30 percent, because it is double-walled. Polycarbonate is 200 times stronger than glass so it won't chip or crack during construction.Polycarbonate also has high light transmission and is UV-stabilized, but does contains toxins such as BPA`s that are water soluble. Acrylic has more light transparency but is not as strong (yet still stronger then glass)\\n80 percent of light filters through polycarbonate. 90% filters true Acrylic.\\n3-3. You could buy fiberglass if you are building a framed greenhouse, you can save money by choosing fiberglass over glass as the roof construction can be lighter of construction.\\nFiberglass will turn yellow and lose transparency in a few years. Acrylic is more expensive but has higher transparency and stays clear up to 10 years.\\nChoose clear fiberglass or even better Acrylic.\\nIt will need a new coat of resin every 10 to 15 years.\\nInvest in higher-grade fiberglass. Light transmission is greatly reduced on low-grade fiberglass or just buy Acrylic. This will save you approximately 25% in cost compared to glass and is easier to work with.\\n3-4. Choose glass.\\nThis is the most attractive material, if you are building a greenhouse that will accentuate your house or garden.\\nGlass is very fragile and is expensive to replace when it breaks, but on the other side acrylic, fiberglass and polycarbonate needs replacing over time.\\nYou must build a framed greenhouse with a foundation, any misalignment because of settling can cause damage.\\nTempered glass is preferable because it is stronger than regular glass, consider using hardened glass for the roof. A 4mm thickness of float glass is suggested if you are in an area prone to hail.\\nIf you are going to the expense of installing a glass greenhouse, you should consider bids from construction companies to ensure the foundation and frame can handle the weight.\\nGreenhouse deconstruction companies can be a source of very cheap glass, second hand glass can be cheaper then new bought plastic variants.\\n4. Constructing the Frame\\n4-1. Use strings along the ground to measure where you want the supports to be set.\\nPound stakes in the ground\\n4-2. Reinforce with rebar.\\nIf you are building a lean-to or Quonset, you can reinforce your frame with rebar and PVC or a non toxic variant.\\nPound rebar into the ground every 4 feet (1.2 m). Leave 48 inches (121.9 cm) protruding from the ground.\\nOnce the rebar is set, you can loop 20-foot sections of tubing over the rebar to create your frame. Stretch your plastic film (preferably a non toxic type of plastic) over the frame and attach it to beams at the bottom.\\n4-3. Pour gravel on the ground in an even layer, after your supports are driven into the ground.\\nSmall, loose gravel allows for extra drainage in a greenhouse environment.\\nHire builders to pour concrete, if you need a foundation. They will need to bring in concrete forms and pour the floor of your greenhouse before it can be framed.\\n4-4. Treat any wood you use before using it, be aware and informed what you use for treatment not every coating and treatment is suitable to be in contact with food products.\\nUntreated wood can degrade in as little as 3 years.\\nChoose your wood treatment carefully. Some wood treatments require that the food is no longer listed as “organic” or safe for consumption because of the use of chemicals.\\nConsider a treatment like Erdalith, which has limited leaching properties.\\nUse metal supports in place of wood supports whenever possible.\\n4-5. Seal the covering to the frame as closely as you can.\\nYou may be able to simply bolt film to wood.\\nThe more expensive the covering, such as glass, fiberglass, or double walled plastic, the more time you should take to seal it to the foundation and frame.\\nResearch the best procedure for the covering of your choice.\\n5. Controlling Temperature\\n5-1. Place fans in the corners of the greenhouse.\\nSet up fans so that they are diagonal and create a airflow.\\nThey should run almost constantly during the winter months, to ensure the entire greenhouse is benefiting from the heater.\\n5-2. Install vents in the ceiling of your greenhouse.\\nThey can also be located near the top of the supports.\\nSome ventilation of carbon dioxide is essential.\\nThe vents should be adjustable. You will need to open them wider in the summer months.\\n5-3. Consider installing an electric heater.\\nSolar heat may only account for 25 percent of the heat in your greenhouse, so a backup heater is essential.\\nYou can also use a wood or oil-based heater, but it must be vented to the outside to ensure good air quality, carbon dioxide poising is a real danger to be looked out for in such a close space.\\nYou should check with your town or council to see what heating options are available in your area.\\n5-4. Install a forced-air system, if you are using a glass-frame greenhouse.\\nIf you can afford to outfit your greenhouse with its own temperature control system, then you can set it up to grow almost anything.\\nEmploy an electrician and a contractor to install your system.\\nIt may need regular maintenance to ensure it can handle ventilation and heating in the winter.\\n5-5. Install thermometers or thermostats.\\nYou should install several thermometers in case 1 breaks.\\nPlace them at different levels of the greenhouse so that you can observe the temperature in your greenhouse at all times.\\nYou can buy a thermometer that measures the temperature inside your house and inside your greenhouse, so that you can watch it closely during the winter months.\\n6. Additional Greenhouse Planning\\n6-1. Study planting conditions for the plants you want to grow.\\nThe more sensitive the plant is to changes in heat, the less likely you will be able to grow other plants in the same section.\\nA cool house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants from freezing. It is ideal for temporary greenhouses.\\nA hot house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants in tropical temperatures.\\nYou will need to choose what the temperature will be and keep it steady. It is not possible to create different zones in an open greenhouse.\\n6-2. Ensure you have a steady water supply.\\nIdeally it should be supplied by hose water and cisterns.\\n6-3. Construct raised beds inside your greenhouse.\\nSlatted tables can be used in the meantime, since they will allow water to drain through the table and into the gravel.\\nIf possible, construct the beds to the primary gardener’s height to limit ergonomic problems.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A greenhouse is a structure that produces a microclimate ideal for plant growth. It can be used to start plants or house them throughout their life. Building a greenhouse is a large project to tackle; however, it can be done on a budget or by professional builders.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a south or north (depending on location) facing area.\", \"描述\": \"The main element required for a greenhouse is good consistent sunlight.\\nAll structures should be to the north of the greenhouse.\\nOne of the main greenhouse structures is a lean-to. Choosing a south wall of a building is a good option.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Give preferences to locations that have morning sun over afternoon sun.\", \"描述\": \"Although all-day sun is the best option, opening up the area to morning light will increase the growth of the plants.\\nIf there are trees or bushes near the greenhouse location, ensure they do not give a shadow until late afternoon.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pay attention to winter versus summer sun.\", \"描述\": \"If the area to the east is open and sunny, it will get more sun November through February. \\nWinter sun has a lower angle, so trees, houses and other structures are more likely to pose a problem.\\nDo not choose a location near evergreen trees. Deciduous trees lose their leaves and will not shade the location in the winter, when the greenhouse requires more sun.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose a location that has access to electricity.\", \"描述\": \"Most greenhouses require some heat and ventilation to keep the temperature optimal.\\nIf you build a lean-to, you may be able to extend power from the house.\\nA separate building may require hiring an electrician.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick a well-drained area.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to syphon away excess rainwater.\\nIf your location is uneven, you may need to fill in the area to encourage drainage.\\nYou may be able to use cisterns to catch rainwater falling from the eaves of your greenhouse. Any conservation of water and electricity will help keep greenhouse costs low.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choosing a Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your location.\", \"描述\": \"Whether you build the greenhouse from scratch or build it with a kit, you should choose the size carefully.\\nThe larger the greenhouse, the more money it will cost to build and heat.\\nThe most popular greenhouse size is 8 by 6 feet (2.4 by 1.8 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a greenhouse kit, if you have little experience building or few people to help you erect the greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"You can get a pop-up or polycarbonate greenhouse from home improvement stores and Amazon for as little as $150.\\nLarger, sturdier models range from $500 to $5,000 depending upon size.\\nLook at websites like Costco.com, Home Depot, or Greenhouses.com.\\nA mini greenhouse is suitable for people who want to do gardening in a limited space.\\nYou can measure the space where you want to install a mini greenhouse.\\nLook at all the models that are good for that space and choose the one with the shape and design you like. Buy it and install it according to the instructions given on the package.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a lean-to.\", \"描述\": \"If you have chosen an area against a building, you may as well construct a simple lean-structure that uses the remaining wall as support.\\nIf you have a brick structure, the heat from the building can help you keep a steady, warm temperature.\\nThis is a fairly easy structure to make yourself. You can support it with rebar, wooden beams and fewer supports that an offset building.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a Quonset frame.\", \"描述\": \"This is a domed ceiling that can be made with steel supports or PVC tubing (PVC does contains several carcinogenic estrogen mimickers that are water soluble, ldpe tubing is more expensive but a saver alternative.).\\nThe domed shape means there is less head and storage space that rectangular models.\\nThis shape can be built with little cost; however, the less expensive the material, the less sturdy it is likely to be.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick a rigid frame.\", \"描述\": \"With this design, you will need a foundation and a frame. Unless you are a designer, you will want to buy a plan for a greenhouse or employ someone to build it.\\nA rigid frame, post and rafter or A-frame greenhouse will need a foundation and a sturdy frame.\\nYou will need the help of friends or employees to help you build a large framed greenhouse.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choosing Covering Materials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use UV-stabilized polyethylene which is cheap but contains BPA's or the more expensive but non toxic LDPE grow tarps which last for longer.\", \"描述\": \"It is UV-stabilized.\\nPlastic film has to be replaced every few years PET plastic has a shorter life expectancy then the non toxic LDPE plastic.\\nIt must be washed occasionally.\\nIt will not hold heat as well as glass, but is adequate for lean-tos, quonsets and small stand-alone framed greenhouses.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use hard, double-walled plastic such as multi wall polycarbonate or corrugated polycarbonate or the more expensive but non BPA containing acrylic (Plexiglas) which has a higher light transparency.\", \"描述\": \"Polycarbonate can be curved slightly around the frame and it has an energy savings of up to 30 percent, because it is double-walled. Polycarbonate is 200 times stronger than glass so it won't chip or crack during construction.Polycarbonate also has high light transmission and is UV-stabilized, but does contains toxins such as BPA`s that are water soluble. Acrylic has more light transparency but is not as strong (yet still stronger then glass)\\n80 percent of light filters through polycarbonate. 90% filters true Acrylic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"You could buy fiberglass if you are building a framed greenhouse, you can save money by choosing fiberglass over glass as the roof construction can be lighter of construction.\", \"描述\": \"Fiberglass will turn yellow and lose transparency in a few years. Acrylic is more expensive but has higher transparency and stays clear up to 10 years.\\nChoose clear fiberglass or even better Acrylic.\\nIt will need a new coat of resin every 10 to 15 years.\\nInvest in higher-grade fiberglass. Light transmission is greatly reduced on low-grade fiberglass or just buy Acrylic. This will save you approximately 25% in cost compared to glass and is easier to work with.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose glass.\", \"描述\": \"This is the most attractive material, if you are building a greenhouse that will accentuate your house or garden.\\nGlass is very fragile and is expensive to replace when it breaks, but on the other side acrylic, fiberglass and polycarbonate needs replacing over time.\\nYou must build a framed greenhouse with a foundation, any misalignment because of settling can cause damage.\\nTempered glass is preferable because it is stronger than regular glass, consider using hardened glass for the roof. A 4mm thickness of float glass is suggested if you are in an area prone to hail.\\nIf you are going to the expense of installing a glass greenhouse, you should consider bids from construction companies to ensure the foundation and frame can handle the weight.\\nGreenhouse deconstruction companies can be a source of very cheap glass, second hand glass can be cheaper then new bought plastic variants.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use strings along the ground to measure where you want the supports to be set.\", \"描述\": \"Pound stakes in the ground\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Reinforce with rebar.\", \"描述\": \"If you are building a lean-to or Quonset, you can reinforce your frame with rebar and PVC or a non toxic variant.\\nPound rebar into the ground every 4 feet (1.2 m). Leave 48 inches (121.9 cm) protruding from the ground.\\nOnce the rebar is set, you can loop 20-foot sections of tubing over the rebar to create your frame. Stretch your plastic film (preferably a non toxic type of plastic) over the frame and attach it to beams at the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour gravel on the ground in an even layer, after your supports are driven into the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Small, loose gravel allows for extra drainage in a greenhouse environment.\\nHire builders to pour concrete, if you need a foundation. They will need to bring in concrete forms and pour the floor of your greenhouse before it can be framed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Treat any wood you use before using it, be aware and informed what you use for treatment not every coating and treatment is suitable to be in contact with food products.\", \"描述\": \"Untreated wood can degrade in as little as 3 years.\\nChoose your wood treatment carefully. Some wood treatments require that the food is no longer listed as “organic” or safe for consumption because of the use of chemicals.\\nConsider a treatment like Erdalith, which has limited leaching properties.\\nUse metal supports in place of wood supports whenever possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Seal the covering to the frame as closely as you can.\", \"描述\": \"You may be able to simply bolt film to wood.\\nThe more expensive the covering, such as glass, fiberglass, or double walled plastic, the more time you should take to seal it to the foundation and frame.\\nResearch the best procedure for the covering of your choice.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Controlling Temperature\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place fans in the corners of the greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"Set up fans so that they are diagonal and create a airflow.\\nThey should run almost constantly during the winter months, to ensure the entire greenhouse is benefiting from the heater.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install vents in the ceiling of your greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"They can also be located near the top of the supports.\\nSome ventilation of carbon dioxide is essential.\\nThe vents should be adjustable. You will need to open them wider in the summer months.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider installing an electric heater.\", \"描述\": \"Solar heat may only account for 25 percent of the heat in your greenhouse, so a backup heater is essential.\\nYou can also use a wood or oil-based heater, but it must be vented to the outside to ensure good air quality, carbon dioxide poising is a real danger to be looked out for in such a close space.\\nYou should check with your town or council to see what heating options are available in your area.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install a forced-air system, if you are using a glass-frame greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"If you can afford to outfit your greenhouse with its own temperature control system, then you can set it up to grow almost anything.\\nEmploy an electrician and a contractor to install your system.\\nIt may need regular maintenance to ensure it can handle ventilation and heating in the winter.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install thermometers or thermostats.\", \"描述\": \"You should install several thermometers in case 1 breaks.\\nPlace them at different levels of the greenhouse so that you can observe the temperature in your greenhouse at all times.\\nYou can buy a thermometer that measures the temperature inside your house and inside your greenhouse, so that you can watch it closely during the winter months.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Additional Greenhouse Planning\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Study planting conditions for the plants you want to grow.\", \"描述\": \"The more sensitive the plant is to changes in heat, the less likely you will be able to grow other plants in the same section.\\nA cool house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants from freezing. It is ideal for temporary greenhouses.\\nA hot house is a greenhouse designed to keep plants in tropical temperatures.\\nYou will need to choose what the temperature will be and keep it steady. It is not possible to create different zones in an open greenhouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ensure you have a steady water supply.\", \"描述\": \"Ideally it should be supplied by hose water and cisterns.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct raised beds inside your greenhouse.\", \"描述\": \"Slatted tables can be used in the meantime, since they will allow water to drain through the table and into the gravel.\\nIf possible, construct the beds to the primary gardener’s height to limit ergonomic problems.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,367
How to Build a Greenhouse Door
1. Steps 1-1. Figure out the size of the opening where you want to place the door. If you have a standard height top plate in the wall in which you are framing the door, you can build it 6 foot 8 inches or 7 foot tall (2.07 meters or 2.13 meters), the same height as standard doors. For custom sizes, you will have to work out the size you require for yourself by taking accurate measurements. 1-2. Locate the materials The door that you see in this article's illustrations utilized an old window from a salvage yard; the frame was sized to fit the window and a frame was built to accommodate the door. For the project here, 2X4 (38 x 89 mm) treated southern yellow pine boards and half inch plywood (also treated) were used as well. 1-3. Set up a good, level set of saw horses for a work table. You will need to make sure it is level and sturdy so that the door will fit together correctly. 1-4. Cut the side rails and stiles to length. Again, you will need to figure out the length of the cuts through your own measuring, so that the finished door will sit properly in the opening. Allow for the stiles to be cut for tenons at each end. A 1 1/2 inch (3.8 cm) tenon on each end of the stile will need to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) longer than the finished length of the stile, less the width of the two rails. For a 40 inch (101.6 cm) door with 3 1/2 inch (8.9 cm) nominal rails, cut the stiles 36 inches (91.4 cm) long. This will allow for the tenon cuts on each end. For a 6 foot 8 inch (2 meters) tall door, the rails, of course, will be 6 foot 8 inches (2 meters). 1-5. Cut the tenons on each end of each stile. You will need to divide the thickness of the stile by three, and leave the middle third as the tenon. 1-6. Cut the mortises For a normal door, you will want a top, middle, and bottom stile, so you need to cut a total of three mortises wide enough to fit the tenoned ends of each stile. Cut the mortises slightly deeper than the tenons; this will ensure that they will fit tightly and leave a clean joint. 1-7. Mortise out the rails where panels or glass will be fitted to complete the door. This mortise will usually differ in width and depth from the stile mortise, in order to accommodate the different material. Any exterior material or siding can be used for the panels, as long as it is reasonably weatherproof and stable. 1-8. Fit the window you are using for the main panel of the door in position. Mark any notches or other modifications you need to make for it to sit properly in the door's frame. 1-9. Clamp the rails so that they fit square along the edges of the window panel of your door. Leave clearance at the top for the top rail, then fit the top rail into position. Slide the intermediate rail up to the base of the window panel and check its fit. Check the assembly at this point to make sure it is square. 1-10. Cut and fit the bottom panel (treated 1/2 inch/1.3 cm) plywood in the photos), then install the bottom stile and check the overall dimensions of the door. Any oversized dimensions can be trimmed with a circular saw prior to installing the hinges, so don't worry if the finished door is a bit too large. 1-11. Disassemble the rails and stiles when you are sure everything fits correctly. Apply a liberal amount of quality, weatherproof wood glue to all the joints, being sure each side of each tenon gets sufficient glue on it to bond it in the mortise. 1-12. Reassemble the rails and stiles after you have applied the glue to the joints. Fit them tightly together, then clamp the frame to hold everything in position while the glue dries. Nails or screws can be used in each joint if the appearance is not important to you, and large wood screws can be used to reinforce the corners; however, this should not be done until any trimming of the finished door is completed. 1-13. Install hinges on the door in preparation for hanging it. You may use standard door butt hinges, or flat surface hinges, depending on your preference. Hang the door, and complete its installation by installing door stops, a threshold, and a latch as you prefer. Tips Use good quality lumber with straight edges and grain, and minimal knots. Treated wood will help make sure the door lasts a long time. Use a good quality weatherproof glue for all joints. Warnings Use care and common sense when operating power tools. Always read the instruction manuals accompanying your power tools.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Figure out the size of the opening where you want to place the door.\\nIf you have a standard height top plate in the wall in which you are framing the door, you can build it 6 foot 8 inches or 7 foot tall (2.07 meters or 2.13 meters), the same height as standard doors. For custom sizes, you will have to work out the size you require for yourself by taking accurate measurements.\\n1-2. Locate the materials\\nThe door that you see in this article's illustrations utilized an old window from a salvage yard; the frame was sized to fit the window and a frame was built to accommodate the door. For the project here, 2X4 (38 x 89 mm) treated southern yellow pine boards and half inch plywood (also treated) were used as well.\\n1-3. Set up a good, level set of saw horses for a work table.\\nYou will need to make sure it is level and sturdy so that the door will fit together correctly.\\n1-4. Cut the side rails and stiles to length.\\nAgain, you will need to figure out the length of the cuts through your own measuring, so that the finished door will sit properly in the opening.\\nAllow for the stiles to be cut for tenons at each end. A 1 1/2 inch (3.8 cm) tenon on each end of the stile will need to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) longer than the finished length of the stile, less the width of the two rails.\\nFor a 40 inch (101.6 cm) door with 3 1/2 inch (8.9 cm) nominal rails, cut the stiles 36 inches (91.4 cm) long. This will allow for the tenon cuts on each end.\\nFor a 6 foot 8 inch (2 meters) tall door, the rails, of course, will be 6 foot 8 inches (2 meters).\\n1-5. Cut the tenons on each end of each stile.\\nYou will need to divide the thickness of the stile by three, and leave the middle third as the tenon.\\n1-6. Cut the mortises\\nFor a normal door, you will want a top, middle, and bottom stile, so you need to cut a total of three mortises wide enough to fit the tenoned ends of each stile. Cut the mortises slightly deeper than the tenons; this will ensure that they will fit tightly and leave a clean joint.\\n1-7. Mortise out the rails where panels or glass will be fitted to complete the door.\\nThis mortise will usually differ in width and depth from the stile mortise, in order to accommodate the different material. Any exterior material or siding can be used for the panels, as long as it is reasonably weatherproof and stable.\\n1-8. Fit the window you are using for the main panel of the door in position.\\nMark any notches or other modifications you need to make for it to sit properly in the door's frame.\\n1-9. Clamp the rails so that they fit square along the edges of the window panel of your door.\\nLeave clearance at the top for the top rail, then fit the top rail into position. Slide the intermediate rail up to the base of the window panel and check its fit. Check the assembly at this point to make sure it is square.\\n1-10. Cut and fit the bottom panel (treated 1/2 inch/1.3 cm) plywood in the photos), then install the bottom stile and check the overall dimensions of the door.\\nAny oversized dimensions can be trimmed with a circular saw prior to installing the hinges, so don't worry if the finished door is a bit too large.\\n1-11. Disassemble the rails and stiles when you are sure everything fits correctly.\\nApply a liberal amount of quality, weatherproof wood glue to all the joints, being sure each side of each tenon gets sufficient glue on it to bond it in the mortise.\\n1-12. Reassemble the rails and stiles after you have applied the glue to the joints.\\nFit them tightly together, then clamp the frame to hold everything in position while the glue dries. Nails or screws can be used in each joint if the appearance is not important to you, and large wood screws can be used to reinforce the corners; however, this should not be done until any trimming of the finished door is completed.\\n1-13. Install hinges on the door in preparation for hanging it.\\nYou may use standard door butt hinges, or flat surface hinges, depending on your preference. Hang the door, and complete its installation by installing door stops, a threshold, and a latch as you prefer.\\nTips\\nUse good quality lumber with straight edges and grain, and minimal knots.\\nTreated wood will help make sure the door lasts a long time.\\nUse a good quality weatherproof glue for all joints.\\nWarnings\\nUse care and common sense when operating power tools. Always read the instruction manuals accompanying your power tools.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"For a backyard greenhouse project, finding a door that fits your own design may prove difficult. If you have the tools and some basic woodworking knowledge, you can build your own custom doors for your greenhouse, as explained in these steps.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Figure out the size of the opening where you want to place the door.\", \"描述\": \"If you have a standard height top plate in the wall in which you are framing the door, you can build it 6 foot 8 inches or 7 foot tall (2.07 meters or 2.13 meters), the same height as standard doors. For custom sizes, you will have to work out the size you require for yourself by taking accurate measurements.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Locate the materials\", \"描述\": \"The door that you see in this article's illustrations utilized an old window from a salvage yard; the frame was sized to fit the window and a frame was built to accommodate the door. For the project here, 2X4 (38 x 89 mm) treated southern yellow pine boards and half inch plywood (also treated) were used as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up a good, level set of saw horses for a work table.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to make sure it is level and sturdy so that the door will fit together correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut the side rails and stiles to length.\", \"描述\": \"Again, you will need to figure out the length of the cuts through your own measuring, so that the finished door will sit properly in the opening.\\nAllow for the stiles to be cut for tenons at each end. A 1 1/2 inch (3.8 cm) tenon on each end of the stile will need to be 3 inches (7.6 cm) longer than the finished length of the stile, less the width of the two rails.\\nFor a 40 inch (101.6 cm) door with 3 1/2 inch (8.9 cm) nominal rails, cut the stiles 36 inches (91.4 cm) long. This will allow for the tenon cuts on each end.\\nFor a 6 foot 8 inch (2 meters) tall door, the rails, of course, will be 6 foot 8 inches (2 meters).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the tenons on each end of each stile.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to divide the thickness of the stile by three, and leave the middle third as the tenon.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut the mortises\", \"描述\": \"For a normal door, you will want a top, middle, and bottom stile, so you need to cut a total of three mortises wide enough to fit the tenoned ends of each stile. Cut the mortises slightly deeper than the tenons; this will ensure that they will fit tightly and leave a clean joint.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mortise out the rails where panels or glass will be fitted to complete the door.\", \"描述\": \"This mortise will usually differ in width and depth from the stile mortise, in order to accommodate the different material. Any exterior material or siding can be used for the panels, as long as it is reasonably weatherproof and stable.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fit the window you are using for the main panel of the door in position.\", \"描述\": \"Mark any notches or other modifications you need to make for it to sit properly in the door's frame.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Clamp the rails so that they fit square along the edges of the window panel of your door.\", \"描述\": \"Leave clearance at the top for the top rail, then fit the top rail into position. Slide the intermediate rail up to the base of the window panel and check its fit. Check the assembly at this point to make sure it is square.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut and fit the bottom panel (treated 1/2 inch/1.3 cm) plywood in the photos), then install the bottom stile and check the overall dimensions of the door.\", \"描述\": \"Any oversized dimensions can be trimmed with a circular saw prior to installing the hinges, so don't worry if the finished door is a bit too large.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Disassemble the rails and stiles when you are sure everything fits correctly.\", \"描述\": \"Apply a liberal amount of quality, weatherproof wood glue to all the joints, being sure each side of each tenon gets sufficient glue on it to bond it in the mortise.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Reassemble the rails and stiles after you have applied the glue to the joints.\", \"描述\": \"Fit them tightly together, then clamp the frame to hold everything in position while the glue dries. Nails or screws can be used in each joint if the appearance is not important to you, and large wood screws can be used to reinforce the corners; however, this should not be done until any trimming of the finished door is completed.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Install hinges on the door in preparation for hanging it.\", \"描述\": \"You may use standard door butt hinges, or flat surface hinges, depending on your preference. Hang the door, and complete its installation by installing door stops, a threshold, and a latch as you prefer.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use good quality lumber with straight edges and grain, and minimal knots.\\n\", \"Treated wood will help make sure the door lasts a long time.\\n\", \"Use a good quality weatherproof glue for all joints.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use care and common sense when operating power tools. Always read the instruction manuals accompanying your power tools.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,368
How to Build a Gymnastics Bar
1. Building the Leg Pieces 1-1. Cut 2 vertical supports so they’re 6 ft (1.8 m) long. Get at least 12 feet (3.7 m) of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) lumber to use for the vertical supports on your gymnastics bar. Mark 6 ft (1.8 m) sections on the lumber and use a handsaw or table saw to cut through the wood. Make straight cuts through the wood so the ends are flush with one another. If the lumber is too expensive, glue 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together so it forms a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post. Once the glue dries, put 3 in (7.6 cm) screws along the length of the board every 6 inches (15 cm). 1-2. Trim 2 base pieces that are each 5 ft (1.5 m) long. Get 1 piece of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 10 feet (3.0 m) long so you can make the base pieces for the gymnastics bar. Measure 5 feet (1.5 m) from the end of the board and make a mark on the wood. Cut a straight line through the middle of the board so you’re left with 2 pieces of wood that are each 5 feet (1.5 m) long. You can also use a table saw to cut your boards if you have one. 1-3. Saw 4 additional boards to 3 ft (0.91 m) for your angle braces. Buy a couple of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 6 feet (1.8 m) long to cut your angle braces from. Cut each board in half so you have 4 pieces that are each 3 feet (0.91 m) long. 1-4. Cut 45-degree angles into the ends of the angle braces with a miter saw. Adjust the bevel on the miter saw so the blade is at a 45-degree angle to the board. Line up the blade of the saw with the end of the board before turning on the saw. Slowly pull the saw handle down to cut through the end of the board so it has an angled edge. Repeat the process on the other end so the board looks like a trapezoid. Continue mitering the other 3 boards the same way. Be sure that the angled cuts on the ends of the board are not parallel with one another or else it won’t fit on the base properly. 1-5. Screw the vertical supports into the centers of the base pieces. Lay down your 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) vertical supports so they’re horizontal. Center the vertical support on one of the 5 ft (1.5 m) boards and clamp it in place with a C-clamp. Drive 4 wood screws that are 3 in (7.6 cm) long through the base board into the bottom of the vertical support. Repeat the process with the other vertical support and base piece. Avoid using nails since they could pull out after regular use. 1-6. Secure the angle braces to the bases and vertical supports with wood screws. Position the angle brace so it forms a triangle with the vertical support and base piece, and make sure the edges are flush. Drive 2 screws through each end of the angle brace and into the vertical support and base. Secure a second angle brace on the other side of the vertical support. Repeat the process on the other vertical support to finish the legs. Ask a helper to hold the vertical supports steady while you attach the angle braces so they’re less likely to move around. 2. Attaching the Bar 2-1. Measure your chest height so you know how tall to make the bar. Stand up straight with your shoulders and heels against a wall so you can get an accurate measurement. Use a measuring tape to find the height from the floor to the center of your chest, or to the top of your armpit. Write down your measurement so you don’t forget it later on. If you’re building the gymnastics bar for someone else, measure their chest height instead. 2-2. Add 4 in (10 cm) to your measurement and mark it on each leg. Since you’ll have a mat underneath the gymnastics bar when it’s finished, add an additional 4 in (10 cm) to the chest height measurement to be more accurate. Measure up from the bottom of the leg piece to the height you found and make a mark in the centers of the vertical supports. Make sure the marks on the leg pieces line up with one another or else the bar will be crooked when you try to install it. 2-3. Drill 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) holes in each leg on the marks you made. Put a 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) hole saw attachment onto your drill. Line up the center of the hole saw with the mark you made on the leg piece before you turn your drill on. Slowly push the hole saw straight into the leg piece to cut a hole completely through it. Cut another hole through the mark on the second leg piece. Don’t try to force the saw through the wood since you could cause the attachment to break or chip the wood. You may also use a drill press to cut the holes if you have access to one. 2-4. Feed a 4 ft (1.2 m) bar through the holes on the legs. Look for a wooden bar that’s 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) in diameter so it fits perfectly in the holes. Push the end of the bar into the hole on one of the leg pieces until the end is flush with the edge. Guide the other end of the bar into the hole on the other leg piece and push it through the wood completely. You can buy wood bars from your local hardware store. You may also use a metal bar instead of wood, but be sure not to use any hollow pipes since they won’t be as strong. If you use a metal bar, make sure at least 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) extends out from the sides. 2-5. Screw the bar into place so it doesn’t shift around. Drive a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw into the vertical support so it’s perpendicular to the bar. Make sure the screw goes into the wooden bar to secure it in place. Work slowly so you don’t accidentally break or chip the wood. Then add another screw on the opposite side of the leg support 1 in (2.5 cm) over. Repeat the process on the other leg piece. If you used a metal bar, then slide a flange coupler over each end of the bar. Drive wood screws into each of the holes on the flange couplers to secure them to the supports. Tighten the screw on top of the flange to secure the bar in place. 3. Adding Safety Features 3-1. Install 2 crossbars between the feet pieces for additional stability. Measure the distance between the base pieces of your gymnastics bar and write down the measurements. Trim 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the size of your measurement with a handsaw. Position the crossbars so they’re flush with the edges of the base. Drive 2 wood screws through the bases into the ends of the crossbars to secure them in place. You can also add another crossbar in the center of the bases if you want, but it’s not required. 3-2. Sand the edges and corners of the wood so they aren’t as sharp. Use 120- or 160-grit sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges on the wood so you don’t get injured while you use the bar. Work around the corners to give them a soft, rounded edge to prevent you from getting hurt if you bump into them. Continue working until all of the edges are smooth. Use an electric sander if you have one to finish working on the wood faster. 3-3. Put a 4 in (10 cm) thick gymnastics mat under the bar for padding. A gymnastics mat helps cushion your landing and prevents you from getting hurt if you fall. Use a mat that’s at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick so you don’t get injured if you slip off of the bar. Make sure the cushion covers both of the crossbars on the bottom so you don’t land on them by accident. You can buy gymnastics mats online or from a specialty store. If you can’t find a mat that’s 4 inches (10 cm) thick, then stack 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) mats on top of one another to use as padding. Warnings Always use caution while you’re working with power tools so you don’t hurt yourself. Keep the gymnastics bar away from other furniture or decoration so you don’t accidentally damage anything while you’re using it.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Leg Pieces\\n1-1. Cut 2 vertical supports so they’re 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\\nGet at least 12 feet (3.7 m) of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) lumber to use for the vertical supports on your gymnastics bar. Mark 6 ft (1.8 m) sections on the lumber and use a handsaw or table saw to cut through the wood. Make straight cuts through the wood so the ends are flush with one another.\\nIf the lumber is too expensive, glue 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together so it forms a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post. Once the glue dries, put 3 in (7.6 cm) screws along the length of the board every 6 inches (15 cm).\\n1-2. Trim 2 base pieces that are each 5 ft (1.5 m) long.\\nGet 1 piece of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 10 feet (3.0 m) long so you can make the base pieces for the gymnastics bar. Measure 5 feet (1.5 m) from the end of the board and make a mark on the wood. Cut a straight line through the middle of the board so you’re left with 2 pieces of wood that are each 5 feet (1.5 m) long.\\nYou can also use a table saw to cut your boards if you have one.\\n1-3. Saw 4 additional boards to 3 ft (0.91 m) for your angle braces.\\nBuy a couple of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 6 feet (1.8 m) long to cut your angle braces from. Cut each board in half so you have 4 pieces that are each 3 feet (0.91 m) long.\\n1-4. Cut 45-degree angles into the ends of the angle braces with a miter saw.\\nAdjust the bevel on the miter saw so the blade is at a 45-degree angle to the board. Line up the blade of the saw with the end of the board before turning on the saw. Slowly pull the saw handle down to cut through the end of the board so it has an angled edge. Repeat the process on the other end so the board looks like a trapezoid. Continue mitering the other 3 boards the same way.\\nBe sure that the angled cuts on the ends of the board are not parallel with one another or else it won’t fit on the base properly.\\n1-5. Screw the vertical supports into the centers of the base pieces.\\nLay down your 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) vertical supports so they’re horizontal. Center the vertical support on one of the 5 ft (1.5 m) boards and clamp it in place with a C-clamp. Drive 4 wood screws that are 3 in (7.6 cm) long through the base board into the bottom of the vertical support. Repeat the process with the other vertical support and base piece.\\nAvoid using nails since they could pull out after regular use.\\n1-6. Secure the angle braces to the bases and vertical supports with wood screws.\\nPosition the angle brace so it forms a triangle with the vertical support and base piece, and make sure the edges are flush. Drive 2 screws through each end of the angle brace and into the vertical support and base. Secure a second angle brace on the other side of the vertical support. Repeat the process on the other vertical support to finish the legs.\\nAsk a helper to hold the vertical supports steady while you attach the angle braces so they’re less likely to move around.\\n2. Attaching the Bar\\n2-1. Measure your chest height so you know how tall to make the bar.\\nStand up straight with your shoulders and heels against a wall so you can get an accurate measurement. Use a measuring tape to find the height from the floor to the center of your chest, or to the top of your armpit. Write down your measurement so you don’t forget it later on.\\nIf you’re building the gymnastics bar for someone else, measure their chest height instead.\\n2-2. Add 4 in (10 cm) to your measurement and mark it on each leg.\\nSince you’ll have a mat underneath the gymnastics bar when it’s finished, add an additional 4 in (10 cm) to the chest height measurement to be more accurate. Measure up from the bottom of the leg piece to the height you found and make a mark in the centers of the vertical supports.\\nMake sure the marks on the leg pieces line up with one another or else the bar will be crooked when you try to install it.\\n2-3. Drill 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) holes in each leg on the marks you made.\\nPut a 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) hole saw attachment onto your drill. Line up the center of the hole saw with the mark you made on the leg piece before you turn your drill on. Slowly push the hole saw straight into the leg piece to cut a hole completely through it. Cut another hole through the mark on the second leg piece.\\nDon’t try to force the saw through the wood since you could cause the attachment to break or chip the wood.\\nYou may also use a drill press to cut the holes if you have access to one.\\n2-4. Feed a 4 ft (1.2 m) bar through the holes on the legs.\\nLook for a wooden bar that’s 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) in diameter so it fits perfectly in the holes. Push the end of the bar into the hole on one of the leg pieces until the end is flush with the edge. Guide the other end of the bar into the hole on the other leg piece and push it through the wood completely.\\nYou can buy wood bars from your local hardware store.\\nYou may also use a metal bar instead of wood, but be sure not to use any hollow pipes since they won’t be as strong. If you use a metal bar, make sure at least 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) extends out from the sides.\\n2-5. Screw the bar into place so it doesn’t shift around.\\nDrive a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw into the vertical support so it’s perpendicular to the bar. Make sure the screw goes into the wooden bar to secure it in place. Work slowly so you don’t accidentally break or chip the wood. Then add another screw on the opposite side of the leg support 1 in (2.5 cm) over. Repeat the process on the other leg piece.\\nIf you used a metal bar, then slide a flange coupler over each end of the bar. Drive wood screws into each of the holes on the flange couplers to secure them to the supports. Tighten the screw on top of the flange to secure the bar in place.\\n3. Adding Safety Features\\n3-1. Install 2 crossbars between the feet pieces for additional stability.\\nMeasure the distance between the base pieces of your gymnastics bar and write down the measurements. Trim 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the size of your measurement with a handsaw. Position the crossbars so they’re flush with the edges of the base. Drive 2 wood screws through the bases into the ends of the crossbars to secure them in place.\\nYou can also add another crossbar in the center of the bases if you want, but it’s not required.\\n3-2. Sand the edges and corners of the wood so they aren’t as sharp.\\nUse 120- or 160-grit sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges on the wood so you don’t get injured while you use the bar. Work around the corners to give them a soft, rounded edge to prevent you from getting hurt if you bump into them. Continue working until all of the edges are smooth.\\nUse an electric sander if you have one to finish working on the wood faster.\\n3-3. Put a 4 in (10 cm) thick gymnastics mat under the bar for padding.\\nA gymnastics mat helps cushion your landing and prevents you from getting hurt if you fall. Use a mat that’s at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick so you don’t get injured if you slip off of the bar. Make sure the cushion covers both of the crossbars on the bottom so you don’t land on them by accident.\\nYou can buy gymnastics mats online or from a specialty store.\\nIf you can’t find a mat that’s 4 inches (10 cm) thick, then stack 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) mats on top of one another to use as padding.\\nWarnings\\nAlways use caution while you’re working with power tools so you don’t hurt yourself.\\nKeep the gymnastics bar away from other furniture or decoration so you don’t accidentally damage anything while you’re using it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A gymnastics bar is a single horizontal bar that’s used during many routines. If you want to practice gymnastics at home, rather than buying expensive equipment, you can build your own gymnastics bar with a few tools and supplies. Start by building the leg pieces before putting the bar between them. After you sand the edges and add padding, your gymnastics bar is ready to use!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Leg Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 vertical supports so they’re 6 ft (1.8 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"Get at least 12 feet (3.7 m) of 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) lumber to use for the vertical supports on your gymnastics bar. Mark 6 ft (1.8 m) sections on the lumber and use a handsaw or table saw to cut through the wood. Make straight cuts through the wood so the ends are flush with one another.\\nIf the lumber is too expensive, glue 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together so it forms a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post. Once the glue dries, put 3 in (7.6 cm) screws along the length of the board every 6 inches (15 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Trim 2 base pieces that are each 5 ft (1.5 m) long.\", \"描述\": \"Get 1 piece of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 10 feet (3.0 m) long so you can make the base pieces for the gymnastics bar. Measure 5 feet (1.5 m) from the end of the board and make a mark on the wood. Cut a straight line through the middle of the board so you’re left with 2 pieces of wood that are each 5 feet (1.5 m) long.\\nYou can also use a table saw to cut your boards if you have one.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Saw 4 additional boards to 3 ft (0.91 m) for your angle braces.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a couple of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 6 feet (1.8 m) long to cut your angle braces from. Cut each board in half so you have 4 pieces that are each 3 feet (0.91 m) long.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut 45-degree angles into the ends of the angle braces with a miter saw.\", \"描述\": \"Adjust the bevel on the miter saw so the blade is at a 45-degree angle to the board. Line up the blade of the saw with the end of the board before turning on the saw. Slowly pull the saw handle down to cut through the end of the board so it has an angled edge. Repeat the process on the other end so the board looks like a trapezoid. Continue mitering the other 3 boards the same way.\\nBe sure that the angled cuts on the ends of the board are not parallel with one another or else it won’t fit on the base properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the vertical supports into the centers of the base pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Lay down your 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) vertical supports so they’re horizontal. Center the vertical support on one of the 5 ft (1.5 m) boards and clamp it in place with a C-clamp. Drive 4 wood screws that are 3 in (7.6 cm) long through the base board into the bottom of the vertical support. Repeat the process with the other vertical support and base piece.\\nAvoid using nails since they could pull out after regular use.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Secure the angle braces to the bases and vertical supports with wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Position the angle brace so it forms a triangle with the vertical support and base piece, and make sure the edges are flush. Drive 2 screws through each end of the angle brace and into the vertical support and base. Secure a second angle brace on the other side of the vertical support. Repeat the process on the other vertical support to finish the legs.\\nAsk a helper to hold the vertical supports steady while you attach the angle braces so they’re less likely to move around.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Bar\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure your chest height so you know how tall to make the bar.\", \"描述\": \"Stand up straight with your shoulders and heels against a wall so you can get an accurate measurement. Use a measuring tape to find the height from the floor to the center of your chest, or to the top of your armpit. Write down your measurement so you don’t forget it later on.\\nIf you’re building the gymnastics bar for someone else, measure their chest height instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add 4 in (10 cm) to your measurement and mark it on each leg.\", \"描述\": \"Since you’ll have a mat underneath the gymnastics bar when it’s finished, add an additional 4 in (10 cm) to the chest height measurement to be more accurate. Measure up from the bottom of the leg piece to the height you found and make a mark in the centers of the vertical supports.\\nMake sure the marks on the leg pieces line up with one another or else the bar will be crooked when you try to install it.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) holes in each leg on the marks you made.\", \"描述\": \"Put a 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) hole saw attachment onto your drill. Line up the center of the hole saw with the mark you made on the leg piece before you turn your drill on. Slowly push the hole saw straight into the leg piece to cut a hole completely through it. Cut another hole through the mark on the second leg piece.\\nDon’t try to force the saw through the wood since you could cause the attachment to break or chip the wood.\\nYou may also use a drill press to cut the holes if you have access to one.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Feed a 4 ft (1.2 m) bar through the holes on the legs.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a wooden bar that’s 1 ⁄4 in (4.4 cm) in diameter so it fits perfectly in the holes. Push the end of the bar into the hole on one of the leg pieces until the end is flush with the edge. Guide the other end of the bar into the hole on the other leg piece and push it through the wood completely.\\nYou can buy wood bars from your local hardware store.\\nYou may also use a metal bar instead of wood, but be sure not to use any hollow pipes since they won’t be as strong. If you use a metal bar, make sure at least 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) extends out from the sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the bar into place so it doesn’t shift around.\", \"描述\": \"Drive a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw into the vertical support so it’s perpendicular to the bar. Make sure the screw goes into the wooden bar to secure it in place. Work slowly so you don’t accidentally break or chip the wood. Then add another screw on the opposite side of the leg support 1 in (2.5 cm) over. Repeat the process on the other leg piece.\\nIf you used a metal bar, then slide a flange coupler over each end of the bar. Drive wood screws into each of the holes on the flange couplers to secure them to the supports. Tighten the screw on top of the flange to secure the bar in place.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Safety Features\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install 2 crossbars between the feet pieces for additional stability.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the distance between the base pieces of your gymnastics bar and write down the measurements. Trim 2 pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to the size of your measurement with a handsaw. Position the crossbars so they’re flush with the edges of the base. Drive 2 wood screws through the bases into the ends of the crossbars to secure them in place.\\nYou can also add another crossbar in the center of the bases if you want, but it’s not required.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand the edges and corners of the wood so they aren’t as sharp.\", \"描述\": \"Use 120- or 160-grit sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges on the wood so you don’t get injured while you use the bar. Work around the corners to give them a soft, rounded edge to prevent you from getting hurt if you bump into them. Continue working until all of the edges are smooth.\\nUse an electric sander if you have one to finish working on the wood faster.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put a 4 in (10 cm) thick gymnastics mat under the bar for padding.\", \"描述\": \"A gymnastics mat helps cushion your landing and prevents you from getting hurt if you fall. Use a mat that’s at least 4 inches (10 cm) thick so you don’t get injured if you slip off of the bar. Make sure the cushion covers both of the crossbars on the bottom so you don’t land on them by accident.\\nYou can buy gymnastics mats online or from a specialty store.\\nIf you can’t find a mat that’s 4 inches (10 cm) thick, then stack 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) mats on top of one another to use as padding.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use caution while you’re working with power tools so you don’t hurt yourself.\\n\", \"Keep the gymnastics bar away from other furniture or decoration so you don’t accidentally damage anything while you’re using it.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,369
How to Build a Hackintosh
1. Creating an Install Disk 1-1. Download MacOS Catalina on a Mac. You'll need access to a Mac to download macOS Catalina. You can download macOS from the App Store on a Mac computer. Once it finishes downloading, close the installer. You do not need to install macOS. Open the App Store and search macOS Click below macOS Catalina. Close out of the macOS installer when it appears. 1-2. Insert a USB flash drive. You need a USB flash drive that is 16GB or larger. Make sure there are no files you want to keep on the Flash drive. 1-3. Open Disk Utility. Use the following steps to open Disk Utility: Click the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop. Click Type "disk utility.app" in the search bar and press Enter. 1-4. Format the USB drive. Use the following steps to format the USB drive in Disk Utility: Select the USB drive in the sidebar to the left in Disk Utility. Click at the top of Disk Utility. Type "USB" next to "Name" Click . 1-5. Open the terminal . Use the following steps to open the Terminal: Click the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop. Click Type "terminal" in the search bar and press Enter. 1-6. Enter the command to create an install disk in the terminal and press ↵ Enter. You will then be asked to enter the Mac user password. This creates a USB install drive from the macOS Catalina download. The command is as follows: sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Catalina.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --nointeraction --volume /Volumes/USB/ 1-7. Install Clover bootloader. Make sure to select the USB drive as the install location. If you install it on your Mac, you risk damaging your Mac bootloader. Use the following steps to install the Clover bootloader: Navigate to in your web browser. Click the latest version of the Clover ".pkg" file ("Clover_v2.5k_r5098.pkg" as of November 2019). Open the .pkg file in your Downloads folder. Click twice. Click () Select the USB flash drive and click . (). Click . (if a custom install is required). Ensure is checked. Check any additional drivers needed for the computer you want to install macOS on. Click 1-8. Download the "FakeSMC.kext" file. You only need the FakeSMC.kext file. You don't need any of the other files included in the download. Use the following steps to download the FakeSMC.kext file: Navigate to in a web browser. Click the latest version of . Open the zip file. Click and drag the "FakeSMC.kext" file to your desktop. 1-9. Download additional kext files needed for your system. You need to know what hardware is on the computer you want to install macOS on. Use the following steps to download additional Kext files needed for your system. Go to in a web browser. Click the download link for kext files needed for your hardware. Open the zip file. Click and drag the Kext file to your desktop. 1-10. Navigate to the kext folder of the USB drive in the Finder . The Finder has an icon that resembles a blue and white smiley face. Open the Finder in the the Dock at the bottom of the screen. Use the followings steps to navigate to the appropriate folder on the USB drive: Open the Finder. Click in the sidebar to the left. Open the folder. Open the folder. Open the folder. Open the folder. 1-11. Drag and drop the kext files into the "Other" folder. After navigating to the "Other" folder in "Kext" on the USB drive, drag and drop the kext files you downloaded from the desktop into the folder. 1-12. Eject the USB drive. Your USB drive is now ready. Click the Eject button to eject the USB flash drive and then remove it from the Mac. 2. Preparing to Install macOS on a Hackintosh 2-1. Create a separate partition on your main drive It is highly recommended that you create a separate partition for the macOS installation. Installing macOS on your main drive may cause permanent problems if the installation doesn't work properly. 2-2. Insert the USB install drive. Use a free USB port on the computer you want to install macOS Catalina to insert the USB drive. 2-3. Boot into the BIOS The way you boot into the BIOS is different on different computers. Some computers require you to press one of the functions keys while it boots up. Check the owner's manual or manufacturers' website to find out how to boot into the BIOS on your computer. 2-4. Select Load Optimized Defaults and reboot the BIOS. This is usually under the "Save & Exit" menu. Select this option and then select and reboot the BIOS. If you cannot find this option in the BIOS, disregard and continue. 2-5. Make the following changes to the BIOS. Each BIOS menu is different. Look for the following options in the BIOS menu and make the appropriate changes. If you cannot find these options, disregard and continue: Select or under "Extreme Memory Profile" in "Advanced Memory Settings". Disable Disable . Disable . Set it to boot from "Other OS" next to "Windows 8/10 Features". Set it to boot from "BIOS and Legacy". Enable "XHCI Hand-off' under "USB Configuration". Disable Intel's VT-d technology under the "Chipset" menu. Set USB drive as the default boot drive. 2-6. Reboot your computer. After you have made all the necessary changes to the BIOS, reboot your computer and allow your computer to boot from the USB drive with macOS installed on it. 3. Installing macOS on a Hackintosh 3-1. Boot from the UEFI version of the USB flash drive. It's in the list of Boot drives. Your USB flash drive may be listed alongside a UEFI version of your USB flash drive. Select the UEFI version. This opens the Clover bootloader. 3-2. Press O when Clover opens. This opens the Options menu. 3-3. Type -lilubetaall in the "Boot args" line and press ↵ Enter. The "Boot Args" line is at the top of the list. 3-4. Select Return. It's at the bottom of the Options menu. Navigate to this option at the bottom of the list and press the "Enter" key. This returns to the previous screen. 3-5. Select the macOS Catalina option. This boots macOS Catalina from the USB drive. 3-6. Select your language and click the arrow icon. The first page of the macOS Catalina installation screen asks you to select your language. Select your language and click the arrow icon to continue. 3-7. Click the Disk Utility option. It has an icon that resembles a disk drive with a stethoscope. 3-8. Select Show all devices. It's in the View menu at the top of the screen. This displays all disks and partitions. 3-9. Select the partition you want to install macOS on. It's in the sidebar to the left. Once again, it is recommended that you NOT install macOS on your main hard drive. Select a partition to install macOS on. 3-10. Click Erase. It's the middle button at the top of the Disk Utility window. 3-11. Type a name for the partition. You can name the partition with macOS "Hackintosh", "macOS", "macOS Catalina" or anything you want. 3-12. Select APFS under "Format". It's in the drop-down menu next to "Format". 3-13. Select Erase. It's in the lower-right corner of the windows. This formats the partition you selected. 3-14. Click Done and close Disk Utility. After Disk Utility is finished formatting, click and then click the red X icon to close Disk Utility. 3-15. Install macOS. After you finished formatting the partition you want to install macOS on, use the following steps to install macOS. Select "Install macOS" and click . Click the arrow icon to continue. Click to agree to the terms and conditions. Select the partition you want to install macOS on. Click . 3-16. Boot from the USB flash drive. After macOS is installed you can boot into macOS using the USB flash drive and selecting the UEFI version of the flash drive. After the installation is complete, reboot your computer and boot into macOS. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the setup process. 4. Installing Kext Files on MacOS 4-1. Drag and drop the kext files to your desktop. If you have kext files installed on your macOS install disk, you can drag and drop them to your desktop from the install drive. You can also download any kext files you need from a repository]. Use the following steps to navigate to your kext files on the install drive. Insert the USB macOS installer. Open the Finder. Click in the sidebar to the left. Open the folder. Open the folder. Open the folder. Open the folder. Drag and drop the kext files to your desktop. 4-2. Navigate to the Extensions folder using the Finder . Use the following steps to navigate to the Exenteions folder on your Hackintosh. Click the root install drive in the sidebar to the left. Open the folder. Open the folder. Open the folder. 4-3. Open the terminal . The terminal can be found within the Utilities folder in the Applications folder, or you can use the following steps to open the terminal on your desktop. Click the magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner. Type terminal in the search bar and press the Enter key. 4-4. Type the following command in the terminal: sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/[filename.kext] and press ↵ Enter.. Replace "filename.kext at the end fo the command with the actual file name you are trying to install (i.e. sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/realtekRTL8100.kext). 4-5. Enter your macOS password and press ↵ Enter. You'll need to enter your password in order to install kext files on macOS. Enter the password you use to sign in to your Hackintosh and press the Enter key. 4-6. Repeat for all kext files. You'll need to repeat this command for all kext files you want to install. Warnings Building a Hackintosh is a violation of Apple's End-User License Agreement (EULA) as well as the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). It could potentially cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees if you are found out.[6] X Research source There is no guarantee that macOS will work on a non-Apple computer. Many macOS features will not be available on a Hackintosh. Items purchased from iTunes, Apple Music, Apple TV and other Apple stores may not be available on a Hackintosh.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:39", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating an Install Disk\\n1-1. Download MacOS Catalina on a Mac.\\nYou'll need access to a Mac to download macOS Catalina. You can download macOS from the App Store on a Mac computer. Once it finishes downloading, close the installer. You do not need to install macOS.\\nOpen the App Store and search macOS\\nClick below macOS Catalina.\\nClose out of the macOS installer when it appears.\\n1-2. Insert a USB flash drive.\\nYou need a USB flash drive that is 16GB or larger. Make sure there are no files you want to keep on the Flash drive.\\n1-3. Open Disk Utility.\\nUse the following steps to open Disk Utility:\\nClick the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop.\\nClick Type \\\"disk utility.app\\\" in the search bar and press Enter.\\n1-4. Format the USB drive.\\nUse the following steps to format the USB drive in Disk Utility:\\nSelect the USB drive in the sidebar to the left in Disk Utility.\\nClick at the top of Disk Utility.\\nType \\\"USB\\\" next to \\\"Name\\\"\\nClick .\\n1-5. Open the terminal .\\nUse the following steps to open the Terminal:\\nClick the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop.\\nClick Type \\\"terminal\\\" in the search bar and press Enter.\\n1-6. Enter the command to create an install disk in the terminal and press ↵ Enter.\\nYou will then be asked to enter the Mac user password. This creates a USB install drive from the macOS Catalina download. The command is as follows: sudo /Applications/Install\\\\ macOS\\\\ Catalina.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --nointeraction --volume /Volumes/USB/\\n1-7. Install Clover bootloader.\\nMake sure to select the USB drive as the install location. If you install it on your Mac, you risk damaging your Mac bootloader. Use the following steps to install the Clover bootloader:\\nNavigate to in your web browser.\\nClick the latest version of the Clover \\\".pkg\\\" file (\\\"Clover_v2.5k_r5098.pkg\\\" as of November 2019).\\nOpen the .pkg file in your Downloads folder.\\nClick twice.\\nClick ()\\nSelect the USB flash drive and click . ().\\nClick . (if a custom install is required).\\nEnsure is checked.\\nCheck any additional drivers needed for the computer you want to install macOS on.\\nClick\\n1-8. Download the \\\"FakeSMC.kext\\\" file.\\nYou only need the FakeSMC.kext file. You don't need any of the other files included in the download. Use the following steps to download the FakeSMC.kext file:\\nNavigate to in a web browser.\\nClick the latest version of .\\nOpen the zip file.\\nClick and drag the \\\"FakeSMC.kext\\\" file to your desktop.\\n1-9. Download additional kext files needed for your system.\\nYou need to know what hardware is on the computer you want to install macOS on. Use the following steps to download additional Kext files needed for your system.\\nGo to in a web browser.\\nClick the download link for kext files needed for your hardware.\\nOpen the zip file.\\nClick and drag the Kext file to your desktop.\\n1-10. Navigate to the kext folder of the USB drive in the Finder .\\nThe Finder has an icon that resembles a blue and white smiley face. Open the Finder in the the Dock at the bottom of the screen. Use the followings steps to navigate to the appropriate folder on the USB drive:\\nOpen the Finder.\\nClick in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\n1-11. Drag and drop the kext files into the \\\"Other\\\" folder.\\nAfter navigating to the \\\"Other\\\" folder in \\\"Kext\\\" on the USB drive, drag and drop the kext files you downloaded from the desktop into the folder.\\n1-12. Eject the USB drive.\\nYour USB drive is now ready. Click the Eject button to eject the USB flash drive and then remove it from the Mac.\\n2. Preparing to Install macOS on a Hackintosh\\n2-1. Create a separate partition on your main drive\\nIt is highly recommended that you create a separate partition for the macOS installation. Installing macOS on your main drive may cause permanent problems if the installation doesn't work properly.\\n2-2. Insert the USB install drive.\\nUse a free USB port on the computer you want to install macOS Catalina to insert the USB drive.\\n2-3. Boot into the BIOS\\nThe way you boot into the BIOS is different on different computers. Some computers require you to press one of the functions keys while it boots up. Check the owner's manual or manufacturers' website to find out how to boot into the BIOS on your computer.\\n2-4. Select Load Optimized Defaults and reboot the BIOS.\\nThis is usually under the \\\"Save & Exit\\\" menu. Select this option and then select and reboot the BIOS.\\nIf you cannot find this option in the BIOS, disregard and continue.\\n2-5. Make the following changes to the BIOS.\\nEach BIOS menu is different. Look for the following options in the BIOS menu and make the appropriate changes. If you cannot find these options, disregard and continue:\\nSelect or under \\\"Extreme Memory Profile\\\" in \\\"Advanced Memory Settings\\\".\\nDisable \\nDisable .\\nDisable .\\nSet it to boot from \\\"Other OS\\\" next to \\\"Windows 8/10 Features\\\".\\nSet it to boot from \\\"BIOS and Legacy\\\".\\nEnable \\\"XHCI Hand-off' under \\\"USB Configuration\\\".\\nDisable Intel's VT-d technology under the \\\"Chipset\\\" menu.\\nSet USB drive as the default boot drive.\\n2-6. Reboot your computer.\\nAfter you have made all the necessary changes to the BIOS, reboot your computer and allow your computer to boot from the USB drive with macOS installed on it.\\n3. Installing macOS on a Hackintosh\\n3-1. Boot from the UEFI version of the USB flash drive.\\nIt's in the list of Boot drives. Your USB flash drive may be listed alongside a UEFI version of your USB flash drive. Select the UEFI version. This opens the Clover bootloader.\\n3-2. Press O when Clover opens.\\nThis opens the Options menu.\\n3-3. Type -lilubetaall in the \\\"Boot args\\\" line and press ↵ Enter.\\nThe \\\"Boot Args\\\" line is at the top of the list.\\n3-4. Select Return.\\nIt's at the bottom of the Options menu. Navigate to this option at the bottom of the list and press the \\\"Enter\\\" key. This returns to the previous screen.\\n3-5. Select the macOS Catalina option.\\nThis boots macOS Catalina from the USB drive.\\n3-6. Select your language and click the arrow icon.\\nThe first page of the macOS Catalina installation screen asks you to select your language. Select your language and click the arrow icon to continue.\\n3-7. Click the Disk Utility option.\\nIt has an icon that resembles a disk drive with a stethoscope.\\n3-8. Select Show all devices.\\nIt's in the View menu at the top of the screen. This displays all disks and partitions.\\n3-9. Select the partition you want to install macOS on.\\nIt's in the sidebar to the left.\\nOnce again, it is recommended that you NOT install macOS on your main hard drive. Select a partition to install macOS on.\\n3-10. Click Erase.\\nIt's the middle button at the top of the Disk Utility window.\\n3-11. Type a name for the partition.\\nYou can name the partition with macOS \\\"Hackintosh\\\", \\\"macOS\\\", \\\"macOS Catalina\\\" or anything you want.\\n3-12. Select APFS under \\\"Format\\\".\\nIt's in the drop-down menu next to \\\"Format\\\".\\n3-13. Select Erase.\\nIt's in the lower-right corner of the windows. This formats the partition you selected.\\n3-14. Click Done and close Disk Utility.\\nAfter Disk Utility is finished formatting, click and then click the red X icon to close Disk Utility.\\n3-15. Install macOS.\\nAfter you finished formatting the partition you want to install macOS on, use the following steps to install macOS.\\nSelect \\\"Install macOS\\\" and click .\\nClick the arrow icon to continue.\\nClick to agree to the terms and conditions.\\nSelect the partition you want to install macOS on.\\nClick .\\n3-16. Boot from the USB flash drive.\\nAfter macOS is installed you can boot into macOS using the USB flash drive and selecting the UEFI version of the flash drive. After the installation is complete, reboot your computer and boot into macOS. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the setup process.\\n4. Installing Kext Files on MacOS\\n4-1. Drag and drop the kext files to your desktop.\\nIf you have kext files installed on your macOS install disk, you can drag and drop them to your desktop from the install drive. You can also download any kext files you need from a repository]. Use the following steps to navigate to your kext files on the install drive.\\nInsert the USB macOS installer.\\nOpen the Finder.\\nClick in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nDrag and drop the kext files to your desktop.\\n4-2. Navigate to the Extensions folder using the Finder .\\nUse the following steps to navigate to the Exenteions folder on your Hackintosh.\\nClick the root install drive in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\n4-3. Open the terminal .\\nThe terminal can be found within the Utilities folder in the Applications folder, or you can use the following steps to open the terminal on your desktop.\\nClick the magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner.\\nType terminal in the search bar and press the Enter key.\\n4-4. Type the following command in the terminal:\\nsudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/[filename.kext] and press ↵ Enter.. Replace \\\"filename.kext at the end fo the command with the actual file name you are trying to install (i.e. sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/realtekRTL8100.kext).\\n4-5. Enter your macOS password and press ↵ Enter.\\nYou'll need to enter your password in order to install kext files on macOS. Enter the password you use to sign in to your Hackintosh and press the Enter key.\\n4-6. Repeat for all kext files.\\nYou'll need to repeat this command for all kext files you want to install.\\nWarnings\\nBuilding a Hackintosh is a violation of Apple's End-User License Agreement (EULA) as well as the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). It could potentially cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees if you are found out.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nThere is no guarantee that macOS will work on a non-Apple computer.\\nMany macOS features will not be available on a Hackintosh. Items purchased from iTunes, Apple Music, Apple TV and other Apple stores may not be available on a Hackintosh.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A Hackintosh is a non-Apple branded PC that runs the Apple macOS operating system. To do this, you will need a compatible non-apple PC, as well as access to a Mac computer. You will also need a USB flash drive to use as an install drive. Warning: There is no guarantee that a non-Apple PC will be able to run Mac OS, and there will likely be certain features that do not work. Building a Hackintosh is also a violation of Apple's End User License Agreement and the Digital Millennium Copyright Act. This wikiHow teaches you how to build a Hackintosh. Proceed at your own risk.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating an Install Disk\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Download MacOS Catalina on a Mac.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need access to a Mac to download macOS Catalina. You can download macOS from the App Store on a Mac computer. Once it finishes downloading, close the installer. You do not need to install macOS.\\nOpen the App Store and search macOS\\nClick below macOS Catalina.\\nClose out of the macOS installer when it appears.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert a USB flash drive.\", \"描述\": \"You need a USB flash drive that is 16GB or larger. Make sure there are no files you want to keep on the Flash drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Open Disk Utility.\", \"描述\": \"Use the following steps to open Disk Utility:\\nClick the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop.\\nClick Type \\\"disk utility.app\\\" in the search bar and press Enter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Format the USB drive.\", \"描述\": \"Use the following steps to format the USB drive in Disk Utility:\\nSelect the USB drive in the sidebar to the left in Disk Utility.\\nClick at the top of Disk Utility.\\nType \\\"USB\\\" next to \\\"Name\\\"\\nClick .\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Open the terminal .\", \"描述\": \"Use the following steps to open the Terminal:\\nClick the Mac Spotlight magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner of the desktop.\\nClick Type \\\"terminal\\\" in the search bar and press Enter.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Enter the command to create an install disk in the terminal and press ↵ Enter.\", \"描述\": \"You will then be asked to enter the Mac user password. This creates a USB install drive from the macOS Catalina download. The command is as follows: sudo /Applications/Install\\\\ macOS\\\\ Catalina.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --nointeraction --volume /Volumes/USB/\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install Clover bootloader.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure to select the USB drive as the install location. If you install it on your Mac, you risk damaging your Mac bootloader. Use the following steps to install the Clover bootloader:\\nNavigate to in your web browser.\\nClick the latest version of the Clover \\\".pkg\\\" file (\\\"Clover_v2.5k_r5098.pkg\\\" as of November 2019).\\nOpen the .pkg file in your Downloads folder.\\nClick twice.\\nClick ()\\nSelect the USB flash drive and click . ().\\nClick . (if a custom install is required).\\nEnsure is checked.\\nCheck any additional drivers needed for the computer you want to install macOS on.\\nClick\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Download the \\\"FakeSMC.kext\\\" file.\", \"描述\": \"You only need the FakeSMC.kext file. You don't need any of the other files included in the download. Use the following steps to download the FakeSMC.kext file:\\nNavigate to in a web browser.\\nClick the latest version of .\\nOpen the zip file.\\nClick and drag the \\\"FakeSMC.kext\\\" file to your desktop.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Download additional kext files needed for your system.\", \"描述\": \"You need to know what hardware is on the computer you want to install macOS on. Use the following steps to download additional Kext files needed for your system.\\nGo to in a web browser.\\nClick the download link for kext files needed for your hardware.\\nOpen the zip file.\\nClick and drag the Kext file to your desktop.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Navigate to the kext folder of the USB drive in the Finder .\", \"描述\": \"The Finder has an icon that resembles a blue and white smiley face. Open the Finder in the the Dock at the bottom of the screen. Use the followings steps to navigate to the appropriate folder on the USB drive:\\nOpen the Finder.\\nClick in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Drag and drop the kext files into the \\\"Other\\\" folder.\", \"描述\": \"After navigating to the \\\"Other\\\" folder in \\\"Kext\\\" on the USB drive, drag and drop the kext files you downloaded from the desktop into the folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Eject the USB drive.\", \"描述\": \"Your USB drive is now ready. Click the Eject button to eject the USB flash drive and then remove it from the Mac.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Preparing to Install macOS on a Hackintosh\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a separate partition on your main drive\", \"描述\": \"It is highly recommended that you create a separate partition for the macOS installation. Installing macOS on your main drive may cause permanent problems if the installation doesn't work properly.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Insert the USB install drive.\", \"描述\": \"Use a free USB port on the computer you want to install macOS Catalina to insert the USB drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Boot into the BIOS\", \"描述\": \"The way you boot into the BIOS is different on different computers. Some computers require you to press one of the functions keys while it boots up. Check the owner's manual or manufacturers' website to find out how to boot into the BIOS on your computer.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select Load Optimized Defaults and reboot the BIOS.\", \"描述\": \"This is usually under the \\\"Save & Exit\\\" menu. Select this option and then select and reboot the BIOS.\\nIf you cannot find this option in the BIOS, disregard and continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the following changes to the BIOS.\", \"描述\": \"Each BIOS menu is different. Look for the following options in the BIOS menu and make the appropriate changes. If you cannot find these options, disregard and continue:\\nSelect or under \\\"Extreme Memory Profile\\\" in \\\"Advanced Memory Settings\\\".\\nDisable \\nDisable .\\nDisable .\\nSet it to boot from \\\"Other OS\\\" next to \\\"Windows 8/10 Features\\\".\\nSet it to boot from \\\"BIOS and Legacy\\\".\\nEnable \\\"XHCI Hand-off' under \\\"USB Configuration\\\".\\nDisable Intel's VT-d technology under the \\\"Chipset\\\" menu.\\nSet USB drive as the default boot drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Reboot your computer.\", \"描述\": \"After you have made all the necessary changes to the BIOS, reboot your computer and allow your computer to boot from the USB drive with macOS installed on it.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing macOS on a Hackintosh\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Boot from the UEFI version of the USB flash drive.\", \"描述\": \"It's in the list of Boot drives. Your USB flash drive may be listed alongside a UEFI version of your USB flash drive. Select the UEFI version. This opens the Clover bootloader.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Press O when Clover opens.\", \"描述\": \"This opens the Options menu.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Type -lilubetaall in the \\\"Boot args\\\" line and press ↵ Enter.\", \"描述\": \"The \\\"Boot Args\\\" line is at the top of the list.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select Return.\", \"描述\": \"It's at the bottom of the Options menu. Navigate to this option at the bottom of the list and press the \\\"Enter\\\" key. This returns to the previous screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Select the macOS Catalina option.\", \"描述\": \"This boots macOS Catalina from the USB drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select your language and click the arrow icon.\", \"描述\": \"The first page of the macOS Catalina installation screen asks you to select your language. Select your language and click the arrow icon to continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Click the Disk Utility option.\", \"描述\": \"It has an icon that resembles a disk drive with a stethoscope.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Select Show all devices.\", \"描述\": \"It's in the View menu at the top of the screen. This displays all disks and partitions.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Select the partition you want to install macOS on.\", \"描述\": \"It's in the sidebar to the left.\\nOnce again, it is recommended that you NOT install macOS on your main hard drive. Select a partition to install macOS on.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Click Erase.\", \"描述\": \"It's the middle button at the top of the Disk Utility window.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Type a name for the partition.\", \"描述\": \"You can name the partition with macOS \\\"Hackintosh\\\", \\\"macOS\\\", \\\"macOS Catalina\\\" or anything you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Select APFS under \\\"Format\\\".\", \"描述\": \"It's in the drop-down menu next to \\\"Format\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Select Erase.\", \"描述\": \"It's in the lower-right corner of the windows. This formats the partition you selected.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Click Done and close Disk Utility.\", \"描述\": \"After Disk Utility is finished formatting, click and then click the red X icon to close Disk Utility.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Install macOS.\", \"描述\": \"After you finished formatting the partition you want to install macOS on, use the following steps to install macOS.\\nSelect \\\"Install macOS\\\" and click .\\nClick the arrow icon to continue.\\nClick to agree to the terms and conditions.\\nSelect the partition you want to install macOS on.\\nClick .\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Boot from the USB flash drive.\", \"描述\": \"After macOS is installed you can boot into macOS using the USB flash drive and selecting the UEFI version of the flash drive. After the installation is complete, reboot your computer and boot into macOS. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the setup process.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Installing Kext Files on MacOS\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drag and drop the kext files to your desktop.\", \"描述\": \"If you have kext files installed on your macOS install disk, you can drag and drop them to your desktop from the install drive. You can also download any kext files you need from a repository]. Use the following steps to navigate to your kext files on the install drive.\\nInsert the USB macOS installer.\\nOpen the Finder.\\nClick in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nDrag and drop the kext files to your desktop.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Navigate to the Extensions folder using the Finder .\", \"描述\": \"Use the following steps to navigate to the Exenteions folder on your Hackintosh.\\nClick the root install drive in the sidebar to the left.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\\nOpen the folder.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Open the terminal .\", \"描述\": \"The terminal can be found within the Utilities folder in the Applications folder, or you can use the following steps to open the terminal on your desktop.\\nClick the magnifying glass icon in the upper-right corner.\\nType terminal in the search bar and press the Enter key.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Type the following command in the terminal:\", \"描述\": \"sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/[filename.kext] and press ↵ Enter.. Replace \\\"filename.kext at the end fo the command with the actual file name you are trying to install (i.e. sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/realtekRTL8100.kext).\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Enter your macOS password and press ↵ Enter.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need to enter your password in order to install kext files on macOS. Enter the password you use to sign in to your Hackintosh and press the Enter key.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Repeat for all kext files.\", \"描述\": \"You'll need to repeat this command for all kext files you want to install.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Building a Hackintosh is a violation of Apple's End-User License Agreement (EULA) as well as the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA). It could potentially cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees if you are found out.[6]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"There is no guarantee that macOS will work on a non-Apple computer.\\n\", \"Many macOS features will not be available on a Hackintosh. Items purchased from iTunes, Apple Music, Apple TV and other Apple stores may not be available on a Hackintosh.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,370
How to Build a Halfpipe or Ramp
1. Project Overview 1-1. Start by constructing the transition pieces. The transition pieces are the curved sections on the ends of your ramp. Begin with cutting out the curved sides of the transitions from sheets of plywood. Screw boards between the bottom corners of 2 transition pieces to form one side of the ramp. Then attach boards along the curved edges of the pieces to frame out the rest of the transition. Typically, a standard beginner halfpipe is about 3 ⁄2 feet (1.1 m) tall and 8 feet (2.4 m) wide. 1-2. Build and attach the flat bottom section of the ramp. The flat bottom is the space between the transitions where you build momentum and prepare for the next trick. Frame a box shape for the flat bottom using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Screw support boards inside of the box so the ramp doesn’t break. Place the flat bottom between the 2 transition pieces and screw them together. When you’re finished, a beginner halfpipe will be about 27 feet (8.2 m) long. Make sure you attach the pieces on a level surface, or else the ramp will be crooked. 1-3. Cover the ramp with plywood and ramp liner for a smooth surface. Start by securing a layer of plywood to the support boards on the flat bottom and transition pieces. After that, place another layer of plywood on top to help support your weight while using your ramp. Since plywood can be rough and difficult to ride on, put a final layer of ramp liner on top to smooth it out. The liner material depends on where you use your ramp. If you’re building it indoors, you can use masonite since there isn’t a risk of water damage. If you’re outdoors, choose a weatherproof and waterproof ramp liner. 1-4. Screw coping pipes on top of the transitions. The copings are the straight metal pipes where the surface material meets the top corner of the transition piece. Skaters use copings for grinding without causing too much damage to their board. Simply drill holes through the pipes and set them into the lips on your transition pieces. Screw the pipes into the ramp so they stay in place. You can use PVC pipe, but metal will last longer. 1-5. Construct platforms next to the transitions for a place to stand. The platforms are the raised sections on the back of each transition so you have a place to relax and drop in to the ramp. Frame boxes that are the same length as your transitions and surface them with plywood. Attach the platforms to the transitions so they butt up against the copings. Screw more boards or posts to the bottom of the platform to support the weight of the platform. 2. Creating the Transition Pieces 2-1. Draw lines on a plywood sheet 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) in from the long edges. Get a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood that’s made for exterior use. Measure 3 ⁄2 inches (8.9 cm) in from one of the long sides and make a mark. Lay a straightedge on the mark so it’s parallel to the long side and use it to draw a straight line across the entire length of plywood. Then measure in the same distance from the other long edge and make another line. The area between the lines will be the overall height of your halfpipe. If you want to make one that’s taller, you will need to use multiple sheets of plywood for a single side. 2-2. Make a dot on the first line 16 in (41 cm) in from the short edge. Go back to the first line you drew and measure in from the short side by 16 inches (41 cm). Use a pencil or marker to make a dot or X on the line so you know where to place your pencil later on. The dot marks where your transition will start curving up toward the platform. 2-3. Measure 6 ft (1.8 m) out from the dot so it’s perpendicular to the line. Put the end of your tape measure on the dot and extend it across the width of the plywood. Keep the tape measure parallel to the short edges of the plywood and perpendicular to the lines you drew. Pull the measuring tape out until it’s extended 6 feet (1.8 m). This means the horizontal distance from the front to the back of the transition is 6 feet (180 cm) and the ramp will have a gentle curve. You can always make the ramp steeper by decreasing the distance or gentler by increasing the distance, but avoid making it longer than the ramp’s height. Otherwise, you’ll have steep vertical sections that are very hard to ride on. 2-4. Stick a screwdriver in the ground at the measurement. Push the blade of the screwdriver into the soil right where the measurement reads 6 feet (1.8 m). Leave about 6 inches (15 cm) of the screwdriver above ground, but make sure it doesn’t wobble or shift around easily. You can also use a wooden stake in place of a screwdriver. If you’re working indoors or can’t put something in the ground, lay down a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and secure a screw on the measurement instead. 2-5. Tie the ends of a string to the screwdriver and a pencil. Cut a piece of string to 6 feet (1.8 m) long. Secure one end of the string to the blade of the screwdriver with an overhand knot so it doesn’t come loose. Pull the string tightly until you reach the dot on your sheet of plywood. Hold a pencil vertically on the dot and wrap the string around it. Always keep the string pulled tight, or else the string will be too long and screw up your measurements. If the screwdriver pulls out of the ground, put it back at your measurement and ask a helper to hold it in place. 2-6. Swing the pencil to the opposite corner to draw the curved section of ramp. Keep the pencil vertical as you move it across the piece of plywood. Pull the string tightly so you make a smooth, curved line, which is the part of the ramp that leads up to the platforms. When the curved line intersects the straight guide line on the opposite side of the plywood, stop drawing and lift up your pencil. If there are any wobbles in the curved line, erase them and try drawing it again until it looks smooth. 2-7. Cut along the outline with a jigsaw to make the first transition piece. Set the plywood on sawhorses so you don’t cut or damage anything. Line the jigsaw’s blade up with the line on the short edge of your board and start your saw. Slowly guide the saw along the outlines for the transition piece, making sure that the cut line doesn’t wobble or waver. Keep cutting until you reach the other short side of the plywood. Your transition piece will look like a trapezoid with one curved side. Wear safety glasses whenever you use a jigsaw just in case the wood kicks back. Keep your hands away from the saw’s blade since you could easily injure yourself. 2-8. Trace the first transition piece to make 3 more that are the same size. Flip the first transition piece upside-down and lay it on the leftover piece of plywood. Trace around the outline with a pencil to make your second transition. Repeat the process on another sheet of plywood and cut them out with your saw so you have 4 transition pieces that are all the same size when you’re finished. 3. Framing the Transitions 3-1. Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the transitions’ curved edges. Hold all of the transition pieces together so their curved edges are flush. Bend a tape measure along the curve of the pieces and draw a line every 8 inches (20 cm). Work your way from the bottom of the curve toward the top section with the flat platform so you know where to put your supports. It’s okay if your last mark doesn’t line up with the top edge of the board. 3-2. Cut boards to 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) long for each mark on a transition. Count the number of marks you just made on 1 transition piece and add 2 for additional supports in the corners. Multiply the number by 2 to find the total number of boards you need for your transitions. Get 2 in × 4 in (0.051 m × 0.102 m) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long and made for exterior use. Mark ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) in from the short edges of each board. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut the ends off of the boards so they’re square. For example, if you made 10 marks on a transition piece, you would need 12 boards to build one and 24 boards for both. 3-3. Screw the cut boards between the transitions’ bottom corners. Place one of your 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) boards on its narrow end and position it between the front bottom corners of 2 transition pieces. Keep the board flush with the fronts of the transition pieces and the curved edge so the ramp doesn’t warp. Place 2–3 wood screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the transition pieces into the ends of the board. Place another board between the back bottom corners and attach it the same way. Use the other 2 curved pieces and 2 more boards to construct another transition. The bottom boards will help ensure the transition pieces stay square so your halfpipe doesn’t get warped or crooked. Always try to work on a level surface when you’re building your ramp so you don’t attach pieces when they’re crooked. 3-4. Attach the cut boards to the transitions so they’re centered on your marks. Slide one of your cut boards between the transition pieces and line it up with the next mark from the bottom along the curved edge. Rotate the board so the narrow edge sits flush with the transition’s curve. Have a helper hold the board in place while you put 2–3 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws into the ends of the board. Continue working your way up from the bottom, placing the center of the board on each mark until you reach the top of the transition. Avoid putting all of the boards with their widest side flush to the curve since they’re more likely to bend and won’t support your weight as well. When you reach the highest mark on your transitions, place the board so the wide, flat side lines up with the curve. This makes it easier to screw in the coping pipe later on. 4. Attaching the Flat Bottom 4-1. Make 2 wooden box frames that are 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m). Lay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow edge. Position 2 of your 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) boards so the wider sides are flush with the ends of your first board. Position another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so the ends are flush with the outside edges of the longer boards. Put 2–3 screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the shorter boards so they go into the ends on the longer ones. Make a second frame the same way. Avoid making one large 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) frame since it won’t have the same amount of support. 4-2. Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the long edges of your frames. Start your measuring tape on the short side of your frame and extend it 8 inches (20 cm) along the long side. Draw a mark on top of the board at your measurement. Work your way down one of the long sides of the frame before you start marking the other long edge. Make sure the marks that are across from one another line up so they’re parallel to the short edges. 4-3. Cut boards to 45 in (1.1 m) lengths for each pair of marks. Count the number of marks on one long edge of your frame so you know how many boards you need for your frame. Get 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Measure in 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) in from the ends of the board and mark it with a pencil. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut along your marks so the ends of the board are square. These boards need to be smaller so they can fit in between the long edges of the frames. 4-4. Attach the cut boards between the marks on your frames. Slide one of the 45 in (1.1 m) boards into your frame so the marks are on center and the narrow edge faces up. Keep the top edge of the board flush with the edges of the frame. Put 2–3 wood screws into the ends of each board to secure them in place. Work on a level surface to ensure so don’t accidentally position the boards crooked. 4-5. Screw the 2 frames together on their long sides to make the flat bottom. Press the long edge of one frame against the long edge of the second frame and hold them together tightly. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along the long edge, alternating which frame you start them from. When you’re finished, you’ll have an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) flat bottom for your halfpipe. 4-6. Attach the transitions to the flat bottom with wood screws. Lay the flat bottom on a level surface where you plan to install the halfpipe. Move the transitions next to the edges of the flat bottom so all of the support boards run parallel. Push the transitions tight against the flat bottom so the edges are flush. Attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the transitions and into the flat bottom every 1–2 feet (30–61 cm). If you don’t assemble the halfpipe on a level surface, then the ramp might get warped and you won’t be able to ride on it smoothly. 5. Surfacing Your Ramp 5-1. Put a layer of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood on the ramp’s flat section. Start the first 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood so the long side lines up with where the flat bottom connects to a transition. Set another piece along the edge of the second transition so the plywood forms a tight seam in the middle of the halfpipe. Avoid using any thinner material when you first start surfacing your ramp since it won’t be able to support your weight. 5-2. Screw the plywood in every 1 ft (30 cm) along the supports. Press the plywood down tightly against the bottom frame so the edges stay flush. Measure in 1 ft (30 cm) from the edge of the frame and sink a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw into the support board. Continue across the length of the support to add more screws. Continue driving screws along the full length and width of the plywood sheets so there are at least 4 screws in every horizontal support board. Drive the screws far enough into the wood so the heads don’t stick out, or else you’ll have bumps in your riding surface. 5-3. Step on the plywood to secure it against the transitions. Lay a plywood sheet down against the curved edge of the transition and press down on it firmly with your foot. The plywood will bend into the shape of the curve so it stays flush with the transition pieces. Keep the plywood pressed against the transition as you screw it every 1 foot (30 cm) into the horizontal supports. Work from the flat bottom up toward the top of the transition so the wood doesn’t warp. If you can’t keep the plywood down by yourself, ask a helper to put their weight against it while you screw it in. You may also cut your plywood to 4 ft × 4 ft (1.2 m × 1.2 m) squares since it may be easier to work with smaller pieces. 5-4. Offset the second layer of plywood by about 8 inches (20 cm). Place another piece of plywood onto your halfpipe so the long edge is 8 inches (20 cm) in from the bottom of the transition. Press the plywood down and screw it into the supports with 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wood screws. Position the screws at least 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) away from the screws in the first layer so they don’t get damaged. Cover the entire riding surface with your second layer of plywood. The second layer helps reinforce the ramp so it’s more durable and less likely to break. 5-5. Put ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ramp surfacing as your final layer. If you’re installing the ramp outside, use a specialty ramp surface like Skatelite or Ramp Armor since it’s durable and weatherproof. If you’ve made your ramp indoors, you can use ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) masonite. Lay the sheets of ramp surfacing on top of the plywood and screw it in along the supports with 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws. Place your screws every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) along the supports to hold them down securely. Specialty ramp surfacing can cost up to $200 USD for a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet and you can buy it online. Make sure the screw heads don’t stick above the surfacing, or else wheels can get caught on them and make your ride bumpier. 6. Adding the Coping 6-1. Drill ⁄8 in (9.5 mm) holes every 2 ft (61 cm) along 2 pipes. Get 2 PVC or metal pipes that’s 8 feet (2.4 m) long and has a 2 in (5.1 cm) circumference. Put a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) metal-cutting drill bit into your drill. Make marks on the pipes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so you know where to place your holes. Hold the drill bit perpendicular to the pipe and slowly guide it through 1 side of the pipe. The pipes used for the copings make it easier to grind and do tricks along the top of your halfpipe. 6-2. Make ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) holes in the opposite side of the pipe. Rotate the pipe by 180 degrees so the holes you just drilled are on the bottom. Change your drill to a ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) bit and lock it in place. Mark holes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so they’re aligned with the holes on the bottom. Push your drill through each mark until you break through to the middle of the pipe. The larger holes in the pipe allow you to feed a drill bit through them and the smaller holes are where the screws will feed through. 6-3. Set the copings into the top notches of the transitions so the ends are flush. The top corners of your transitions will have a small notch between the ramp’s surface and the top edge. Lift the coping pipe onto the transition and set it down in the notch so the smaller holes line up with the narrow edge of the top support board. Make sure the front of the coping sits flush with the ramp’s surface and the ends don’t extend past the sides of the transition. If the coping overhangs the ramp’s surface, use your jigsaw to cut the notch deeper. 6-4. Screw the copings into the top support boards of the transitions. Have a helper hold the coping pipe in place so it doesn’t move around. Place a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw on an extended screwdriver bit and carefully feed it through the larger hole in the top of the coping. Push the tip of the screw through the smaller hole on the bottom of the pipe. Drive the screw straight into the support board until the screw head is flush with the inside edge of the coping. Add screws to the rest of the holes in the copings to secure them to the transitions. Screw the copings in slowly so you don’t damage or split the support board underneath. 7. Assembling the Platforms 7-1. Build 2 wooden frames that are 8 by 4 feet (2.4 m × 1.2 m). Lay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow side. Place 2 boards that are 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) perpendicular to the shorter piece so the sides are flush. Place another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so it’s ends are flush with the outer edges of the long pieces. Screw the shorter boards into the ends of the longer boards with 3 inches (7.6 cm) wood screws to make your box frames. The frames will look similar to the frames you used on your flat bottom. You can adjust the platform to whatever width you want, but somewhere between 2–4 feet (61–122 cm) is usually standard for a beginner halfpipe. 7-2. Mark every 16 in (41 cm) along the frames’ long edges. Measure along the long side of your frame from the corner and make a mark at 8 inches (20 cm). Continue working down the length of the long board and add a new mark every 8 inches (20 cm). Then make marks on the other long board so they line up with the first ones you drew. 7-3. Secure 45 in (1.1 m) boards in the frames on your marks. Position a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board between the long side pieces so it’s on center with the marks you made and parallel to the short sides. Attach 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long through the long sides of the frame and into the support board. Work your way across the frames until you screw boards in between every set of marks. Make sure the narrow side of the board faces up when you install the supports so they can handle the most weight. Otherwise, they may bend or break. 7-4. Cover the platform frames with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood. Set a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood on top of the support boards so the edges are flush with your frame. Attach 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along each of the support boards and frame. Work from one short side to the other so the wood doesn’t warp or bubble in the middle. Avoid using plywood that’s any thinner, or else it may not be able to support your weight. 7-5. Attach 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts along the back of the platform. Measure the height of your transition so you know how tall to make your posts. Transfer your measurement onto a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post and cut 3 pieces that are the same height. Place 2 of the posts in the corners on the bottom of the platform and 1 along the back closest to the center support. Use 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long to attach the top of the platform to the posts. If you don’t want to buy posts, you can screw 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together instead. 7-6. Screw the platforms into the sides of the transitions every 8 in (20 cm). Push the platforms into the backs of the transitions until the fronts are flush with the coping. Secure 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws through the upper edge of the transition so they go into the sides of the platform. Put at least 2–3 screws every 8 inches (20 cm) so the platform stays stable on the transitions. Once you attach the platforms, you’re ready to ride! If the platforms still don’t feel sturdy when you stand on them, screw boards at a 45-degree angle from each leg so they connect to the bottom supports on the platform. Tips See if hardware stores offer equipment rentals so you don’t have to buy all of the tools. Wear a helmet and pads whenever you use your halfpipe so you’re less likely to get hurt. Warnings Always use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t cut or injure yourself. Make sure to work on a level surface, or else you may make your ramp uneven.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Project Overview\\n1-1. Start by constructing the transition pieces.\\nThe transition pieces are the curved sections on the ends of your ramp. Begin with cutting out the curved sides of the transitions from sheets of plywood. Screw boards between the bottom corners of 2 transition pieces to form one side of the ramp. Then attach boards along the curved edges of the pieces to frame out the rest of the transition.\\nTypically, a standard beginner halfpipe is about 3 ⁄2 feet (1.1 m) tall and 8 feet (2.4 m) wide.\\n1-2. Build and attach the flat bottom section of the ramp.\\nThe flat bottom is the space between the transitions where you build momentum and prepare for the next trick. Frame a box shape for the flat bottom using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Screw support boards inside of the box so the ramp doesn’t break. Place the flat bottom between the 2 transition pieces and screw them together.\\nWhen you’re finished, a beginner halfpipe will be about 27 feet (8.2 m) long.\\nMake sure you attach the pieces on a level surface, or else the ramp will be crooked.\\n1-3. Cover the ramp with plywood and ramp liner for a smooth surface.\\nStart by securing a layer of plywood to the support boards on the flat bottom and transition pieces. After that, place another layer of plywood on top to help support your weight while using your ramp. Since plywood can be rough and difficult to ride on, put a final layer of ramp liner on top to smooth it out.\\nThe liner material depends on where you use your ramp. If you’re building it indoors, you can use masonite since there isn’t a risk of water damage. If you’re outdoors, choose a weatherproof and waterproof ramp liner.\\n1-4. Screw coping pipes on top of the transitions.\\nThe copings are the straight metal pipes where the surface material meets the top corner of the transition piece. Skaters use copings for grinding without causing too much damage to their board. Simply drill holes through the pipes and set them into the lips on your transition pieces. Screw the pipes into the ramp so they stay in place.\\nYou can use PVC pipe, but metal will last longer.\\n1-5. Construct platforms next to the transitions for a place to stand.\\nThe platforms are the raised sections on the back of each transition so you have a place to relax and drop in to the ramp. Frame boxes that are the same length as your transitions and surface them with plywood. Attach the platforms to the transitions so they butt up against the copings. Screw more boards or posts to the bottom of the platform to support the weight of the platform.\\n2. Creating the Transition Pieces\\n2-1. Draw lines on a plywood sheet 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) in from the long edges.\\nGet a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood that’s made for exterior use. Measure 3 ⁄2 inches (8.9 cm) in from one of the long sides and make a mark. Lay a straightedge on the mark so it’s parallel to the long side and use it to draw a straight line across the entire length of plywood. Then measure in the same distance from the other long edge and make another line.\\nThe area between the lines will be the overall height of your halfpipe. If you want to make one that’s taller, you will need to use multiple sheets of plywood for a single side.\\n2-2. Make a dot on the first line 16 in (41 cm) in from the short edge.\\nGo back to the first line you drew and measure in from the short side by 16 inches (41 cm). Use a pencil or marker to make a dot or X on the line so you know where to place your pencil later on.\\nThe dot marks where your transition will start curving up toward the platform.\\n2-3. Measure 6 ft (1.8 m) out from the dot so it’s perpendicular to the line.\\nPut the end of your tape measure on the dot and extend it across the width of the plywood. Keep the tape measure parallel to the short edges of the plywood and perpendicular to the lines you drew. Pull the measuring tape out until it’s extended 6 feet (1.8 m).\\nThis means the horizontal distance from the front to the back of the transition is 6 feet (180 cm) and the ramp will have a gentle curve.\\nYou can always make the ramp steeper by decreasing the distance or gentler by increasing the distance, but avoid making it longer than the ramp’s height. Otherwise, you’ll have steep vertical sections that are very hard to ride on.\\n2-4. Stick a screwdriver in the ground at the measurement.\\nPush the blade of the screwdriver into the soil right where the measurement reads 6 feet (1.8 m). Leave about 6 inches (15 cm) of the screwdriver above ground, but make sure it doesn’t wobble or shift around easily.\\nYou can also use a wooden stake in place of a screwdriver.\\nIf you’re working indoors or can’t put something in the ground, lay down a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and secure a screw on the measurement instead.\\n2-5. Tie the ends of a string to the screwdriver and a pencil.\\nCut a piece of string to 6 feet (1.8 m) long. Secure one end of the string to the blade of the screwdriver with an overhand knot so it doesn’t come loose. Pull the string tightly until you reach the dot on your sheet of plywood. Hold a pencil vertically on the dot and wrap the string around it.\\nAlways keep the string pulled tight, or else the string will be too long and screw up your measurements.\\nIf the screwdriver pulls out of the ground, put it back at your measurement and ask a helper to hold it in place.\\n2-6. Swing the pencil to the opposite corner to draw the curved section of ramp.\\nKeep the pencil vertical as you move it across the piece of plywood. Pull the string tightly so you make a smooth, curved line, which is the part of the ramp that leads up to the platforms. When the curved line intersects the straight guide line on the opposite side of the plywood, stop drawing and lift up your pencil.\\nIf there are any wobbles in the curved line, erase them and try drawing it again until it looks smooth.\\n2-7. Cut along the outline with a jigsaw to make the first transition piece.\\nSet the plywood on sawhorses so you don’t cut or damage anything. Line the jigsaw’s blade up with the line on the short edge of your board and start your saw. Slowly guide the saw along the outlines for the transition piece, making sure that the cut line doesn’t wobble or waver. Keep cutting until you reach the other short side of the plywood. Your transition piece will look like a trapezoid with one curved side.\\nWear safety glasses whenever you use a jigsaw just in case the wood kicks back.\\nKeep your hands away from the saw’s blade since you could easily injure yourself.\\n2-8. Trace the first transition piece to make 3 more that are the same size.\\nFlip the first transition piece upside-down and lay it on the leftover piece of plywood. Trace around the outline with a pencil to make your second transition. Repeat the process on another sheet of plywood and cut them out with your saw so you have 4 transition pieces that are all the same size when you’re finished.\\n3. Framing the Transitions\\n3-1. Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the transitions’ curved edges.\\nHold all of the transition pieces together so their curved edges are flush. Bend a tape measure along the curve of the pieces and draw a line every 8 inches (20 cm). Work your way from the bottom of the curve toward the top section with the flat platform so you know where to put your supports.\\nIt’s okay if your last mark doesn’t line up with the top edge of the board.\\n3-2. Cut boards to 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) long for each mark on a transition.\\nCount the number of marks you just made on 1 transition piece and add 2 for additional supports in the corners. Multiply the number by 2 to find the total number of boards you need for your transitions. Get 2 in × 4 in (0.051 m × 0.102 m) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long and made for exterior use. Mark ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) in from the short edges of each board. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut the ends off of the boards so they’re square.\\nFor example, if you made 10 marks on a transition piece, you would need 12 boards to build one and 24 boards for both.\\n3-3. Screw the cut boards between the transitions’ bottom corners.\\nPlace one of your 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) boards on its narrow end and position it between the front bottom corners of 2 transition pieces. Keep the board flush with the fronts of the transition pieces and the curved edge so the ramp doesn’t warp. Place 2–3 wood screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the transition pieces into the ends of the board. Place another board between the back bottom corners and attach it the same way. Use the other 2 curved pieces and 2 more boards to construct another transition.\\nThe bottom boards will help ensure the transition pieces stay square so your halfpipe doesn’t get warped or crooked.\\nAlways try to work on a level surface when you’re building your ramp so you don’t attach pieces when they’re crooked.\\n3-4. Attach the cut boards to the transitions so they’re centered on your marks.\\nSlide one of your cut boards between the transition pieces and line it up with the next mark from the bottom along the curved edge. Rotate the board so the narrow edge sits flush with the transition’s curve. Have a helper hold the board in place while you put 2–3 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws into the ends of the board. Continue working your way up from the bottom, placing the center of the board on each mark until you reach the top of the transition.\\nAvoid putting all of the boards with their widest side flush to the curve since they’re more likely to bend and won’t support your weight as well.\\nWhen you reach the highest mark on your transitions, place the board so the wide, flat side lines up with the curve. This makes it easier to screw in the coping pipe later on.\\n4. Attaching the Flat Bottom\\n4-1. Make 2 wooden box frames that are 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m).\\nLay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow edge. Position 2 of your 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) boards so the wider sides are flush with the ends of your first board. Position another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so the ends are flush with the outside edges of the longer boards. Put 2–3 screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the shorter boards so they go into the ends on the longer ones. Make a second frame the same way.\\nAvoid making one large 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) frame since it won’t have the same amount of support.\\n4-2. Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the long edges of your frames.\\nStart your measuring tape on the short side of your frame and extend it 8 inches (20 cm) along the long side. Draw a mark on top of the board at your measurement. Work your way down one of the long sides of the frame before you start marking the other long edge. Make sure the marks that are across from one another line up so they’re parallel to the short edges.\\n4-3. Cut boards to 45 in (1.1 m) lengths for each pair of marks.\\nCount the number of marks on one long edge of your frame so you know how many boards you need for your frame. Get 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Measure in 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) in from the ends of the board and mark it with a pencil. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut along your marks so the ends of the board are square.\\nThese boards need to be smaller so they can fit in between the long edges of the frames.\\n4-4. Attach the cut boards between the marks on your frames.\\nSlide one of the 45 in (1.1 m) boards into your frame so the marks are on center and the narrow edge faces up. Keep the top edge of the board flush with the edges of the frame. Put 2–3 wood screws into the ends of each board to secure them in place.\\nWork on a level surface to ensure so don’t accidentally position the boards crooked.\\n4-5. Screw the 2 frames together on their long sides to make the flat bottom.\\nPress the long edge of one frame against the long edge of the second frame and hold them together tightly. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along the long edge, alternating which frame you start them from. When you’re finished, you’ll have an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) flat bottom for your halfpipe.\\n4-6. Attach the transitions to the flat bottom with wood screws.\\nLay the flat bottom on a level surface where you plan to install the halfpipe. Move the transitions next to the edges of the flat bottom so all of the support boards run parallel. Push the transitions tight against the flat bottom so the edges are flush. Attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the transitions and into the flat bottom every 1–2 feet (30–61 cm).\\nIf you don’t assemble the halfpipe on a level surface, then the ramp might get warped and you won’t be able to ride on it smoothly.\\n5. Surfacing Your Ramp\\n5-1. Put a layer of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood on the ramp’s flat section.\\nStart the first 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood so the long side lines up with where the flat bottom connects to a transition. Set another piece along the edge of the second transition so the plywood forms a tight seam in the middle of the halfpipe.\\nAvoid using any thinner material when you first start surfacing your ramp since it won’t be able to support your weight.\\n5-2. Screw the plywood in every 1 ft (30 cm) along the supports.\\nPress the plywood down tightly against the bottom frame so the edges stay flush. Measure in 1 ft (30 cm) from the edge of the frame and sink a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw into the support board. Continue across the length of the support to add more screws. Continue driving screws along the full length and width of the plywood sheets so there are at least 4 screws in every horizontal support board.\\nDrive the screws far enough into the wood so the heads don’t stick out, or else you’ll have bumps in your riding surface.\\n5-3. Step on the plywood to secure it against the transitions.\\nLay a plywood sheet down against the curved edge of the transition and press down on it firmly with your foot. The plywood will bend into the shape of the curve so it stays flush with the transition pieces. Keep the plywood pressed against the transition as you screw it every 1 foot (30 cm) into the horizontal supports. Work from the flat bottom up toward the top of the transition so the wood doesn’t warp.\\nIf you can’t keep the plywood down by yourself, ask a helper to put their weight against it while you screw it in.\\nYou may also cut your plywood to 4 ft × 4 ft (1.2 m × 1.2 m) squares since it may be easier to work with smaller pieces.\\n5-4. Offset the second layer of plywood by about 8 inches (20 cm).\\nPlace another piece of plywood onto your halfpipe so the long edge is 8 inches (20 cm) in from the bottom of the transition. Press the plywood down and screw it into the supports with 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wood screws. Position the screws at least 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) away from the screws in the first layer so they don’t get damaged. Cover the entire riding surface with your second layer of plywood.\\nThe second layer helps reinforce the ramp so it’s more durable and less likely to break.\\n5-5. Put ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ramp surfacing as your final layer.\\nIf you’re installing the ramp outside, use a specialty ramp surface like Skatelite or Ramp Armor since it’s durable and weatherproof. If you’ve made your ramp indoors, you can use ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) masonite. Lay the sheets of ramp surfacing on top of the plywood and screw it in along the supports with 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws. Place your screws every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) along the supports to hold them down securely.\\nSpecialty ramp surfacing can cost up to $200 USD for a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet and you can buy it online.\\nMake sure the screw heads don’t stick above the surfacing, or else wheels can get caught on them and make your ride bumpier.\\n6. Adding the Coping\\n6-1. Drill ⁄8 in (9.5 mm) holes every 2 ft (61 cm) along 2 pipes.\\nGet 2 PVC or metal pipes that’s 8 feet (2.4 m) long and has a 2 in (5.1 cm) circumference. Put a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) metal-cutting drill bit into your drill. Make marks on the pipes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so you know where to place your holes. Hold the drill bit perpendicular to the pipe and slowly guide it through 1 side of the pipe.\\nThe pipes used for the copings make it easier to grind and do tricks along the top of your halfpipe.\\n6-2. Make ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) holes in the opposite side of the pipe.\\nRotate the pipe by 180 degrees so the holes you just drilled are on the bottom. Change your drill to a ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) bit and lock it in place. Mark holes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so they’re aligned with the holes on the bottom. Push your drill through each mark until you break through to the middle of the pipe.\\nThe larger holes in the pipe allow you to feed a drill bit through them and the smaller holes are where the screws will feed through.\\n6-3. Set the copings into the top notches of the transitions so the ends are flush.\\nThe top corners of your transitions will have a small notch between the ramp’s surface and the top edge. Lift the coping pipe onto the transition and set it down in the notch so the smaller holes line up with the narrow edge of the top support board. Make sure the front of the coping sits flush with the ramp’s surface and the ends don’t extend past the sides of the transition.\\nIf the coping overhangs the ramp’s surface, use your jigsaw to cut the notch deeper.\\n6-4. Screw the copings into the top support boards of the transitions.\\nHave a helper hold the coping pipe in place so it doesn’t move around. Place a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw on an extended screwdriver bit and carefully feed it through the larger hole in the top of the coping. Push the tip of the screw through the smaller hole on the bottom of the pipe. Drive the screw straight into the support board until the screw head is flush with the inside edge of the coping. Add screws to the rest of the holes in the copings to secure them to the transitions.\\nScrew the copings in slowly so you don’t damage or split the support board underneath.\\n7. Assembling the Platforms\\n7-1. Build 2 wooden frames that are 8 by 4 feet (2.4 m × 1.2 m).\\nLay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow side. Place 2 boards that are 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) perpendicular to the shorter piece so the sides are flush. Place another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so it’s ends are flush with the outer edges of the long pieces. Screw the shorter boards into the ends of the longer boards with 3 inches (7.6 cm) wood screws to make your box frames.\\nThe frames will look similar to the frames you used on your flat bottom.\\nYou can adjust the platform to whatever width you want, but somewhere between 2–4 feet (61–122 cm) is usually standard for a beginner halfpipe.\\n7-2. Mark every 16 in (41 cm) along the frames’ long edges.\\nMeasure along the long side of your frame from the corner and make a mark at 8 inches (20 cm). Continue working down the length of the long board and add a new mark every 8 inches (20 cm). Then make marks on the other long board so they line up with the first ones you drew.\\n7-3. Secure 45 in (1.1 m) boards in the frames on your marks.\\nPosition a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board between the long side pieces so it’s on center with the marks you made and parallel to the short sides. Attach 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long through the long sides of the frame and into the support board. Work your way across the frames until you screw boards in between every set of marks.\\nMake sure the narrow side of the board faces up when you install the supports so they can handle the most weight. Otherwise, they may bend or break.\\n7-4. Cover the platform frames with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood.\\nSet a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood on top of the support boards so the edges are flush with your frame. Attach 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along each of the support boards and frame. Work from one short side to the other so the wood doesn’t warp or bubble in the middle.\\nAvoid using plywood that’s any thinner, or else it may not be able to support your weight.\\n7-5. Attach 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts along the back of the platform.\\nMeasure the height of your transition so you know how tall to make your posts. Transfer your measurement onto a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post and cut 3 pieces that are the same height. Place 2 of the posts in the corners on the bottom of the platform and 1 along the back closest to the center support. Use 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long to attach the top of the platform to the posts.\\nIf you don’t want to buy posts, you can screw 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together instead.\\n7-6. Screw the platforms into the sides of the transitions every 8 in (20 cm).\\nPush the platforms into the backs of the transitions until the fronts are flush with the coping. Secure 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws through the upper edge of the transition so they go into the sides of the platform. Put at least 2–3 screws every 8 inches (20 cm) so the platform stays stable on the transitions. Once you attach the platforms, you’re ready to ride!\\nIf the platforms still don’t feel sturdy when you stand on them, screw boards at a 45-degree angle from each leg so they connect to the bottom supports on the platform.\\nTips\\nSee if hardware stores offer equipment rentals so you don’t have to buy all of the tools.\\nWear a helmet and pads whenever you use your halfpipe so you’re less likely to get hurt.\\nWarnings\\nAlways use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t cut or injure yourself.\\nMake sure to work on a level surface, or else you may make your ramp uneven.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Halfpipes are great ways to practice doing tricks while you’re skating, rollerblading, or BMX biking. If you want to ride at home rather than going to a skate park, you can build your own halfpipe as long as you have the space. Halfpipes require a lot of materials and precision when you build them, so it can be tricky if you don’t have construction experience. With a bit of patience and time, you’ll have a sturdy ramp that you can practice on for years to come!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Project Overview\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start by constructing the transition pieces.\", \"描述\": \"The transition pieces are the curved sections on the ends of your ramp. Begin with cutting out the curved sides of the transitions from sheets of plywood. Screw boards between the bottom corners of 2 transition pieces to form one side of the ramp. Then attach boards along the curved edges of the pieces to frame out the rest of the transition.\\nTypically, a standard beginner halfpipe is about 3 ⁄2 feet (1.1 m) tall and 8 feet (2.4 m) wide.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build and attach the flat bottom section of the ramp.\", \"描述\": \"The flat bottom is the space between the transitions where you build momentum and prepare for the next trick. Frame a box shape for the flat bottom using 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Screw support boards inside of the box so the ramp doesn’t break. Place the flat bottom between the 2 transition pieces and screw them together.\\nWhen you’re finished, a beginner halfpipe will be about 27 feet (8.2 m) long.\\nMake sure you attach the pieces on a level surface, or else the ramp will be crooked.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the ramp with plywood and ramp liner for a smooth surface.\", \"描述\": \"Start by securing a layer of plywood to the support boards on the flat bottom and transition pieces. After that, place another layer of plywood on top to help support your weight while using your ramp. Since plywood can be rough and difficult to ride on, put a final layer of ramp liner on top to smooth it out.\\nThe liner material depends on where you use your ramp. If you’re building it indoors, you can use masonite since there isn’t a risk of water damage. If you’re outdoors, choose a weatherproof and waterproof ramp liner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw coping pipes on top of the transitions.\", \"描述\": \"The copings are the straight metal pipes where the surface material meets the top corner of the transition piece. Skaters use copings for grinding without causing too much damage to their board. Simply drill holes through the pipes and set them into the lips on your transition pieces. Screw the pipes into the ramp so they stay in place.\\nYou can use PVC pipe, but metal will last longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Construct platforms next to the transitions for a place to stand.\", \"描述\": \"The platforms are the raised sections on the back of each transition so you have a place to relax and drop in to the ramp. Frame boxes that are the same length as your transitions and surface them with plywood. Attach the platforms to the transitions so they butt up against the copings. Screw more boards or posts to the bottom of the platform to support the weight of the platform.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Transition Pieces\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Draw lines on a plywood sheet 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm) in from the long edges.\", \"描述\": \"Get a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood that’s made for exterior use. Measure 3 ⁄2 inches (8.9 cm) in from one of the long sides and make a mark. Lay a straightedge on the mark so it’s parallel to the long side and use it to draw a straight line across the entire length of plywood. Then measure in the same distance from the other long edge and make another line.\\nThe area between the lines will be the overall height of your halfpipe. If you want to make one that’s taller, you will need to use multiple sheets of plywood for a single side.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a dot on the first line 16 in (41 cm) in from the short edge.\", \"描述\": \"Go back to the first line you drew and measure in from the short side by 16 inches (41 cm). Use a pencil or marker to make a dot or X on the line so you know where to place your pencil later on.\\nThe dot marks where your transition will start curving up toward the platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Measure 6 ft (1.8 m) out from the dot so it’s perpendicular to the line.\", \"描述\": \"Put the end of your tape measure on the dot and extend it across the width of the plywood. Keep the tape measure parallel to the short edges of the plywood and perpendicular to the lines you drew. Pull the measuring tape out until it’s extended 6 feet (1.8 m).\\nThis means the horizontal distance from the front to the back of the transition is 6 feet (180 cm) and the ramp will have a gentle curve.\\nYou can always make the ramp steeper by decreasing the distance or gentler by increasing the distance, but avoid making it longer than the ramp’s height. Otherwise, you’ll have steep vertical sections that are very hard to ride on.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stick a screwdriver in the ground at the measurement.\", \"描述\": \"Push the blade of the screwdriver into the soil right where the measurement reads 6 feet (1.8 m). Leave about 6 inches (15 cm) of the screwdriver above ground, but make sure it doesn’t wobble or shift around easily.\\nYou can also use a wooden stake in place of a screwdriver.\\nIf you’re working indoors or can’t put something in the ground, lay down a sheet of ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood and secure a screw on the measurement instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie the ends of a string to the screwdriver and a pencil.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of string to 6 feet (1.8 m) long. Secure one end of the string to the blade of the screwdriver with an overhand knot so it doesn’t come loose. Pull the string tightly until you reach the dot on your sheet of plywood. Hold a pencil vertically on the dot and wrap the string around it.\\nAlways keep the string pulled tight, or else the string will be too long and screw up your measurements.\\nIf the screwdriver pulls out of the ground, put it back at your measurement and ask a helper to hold it in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Swing the pencil to the opposite corner to draw the curved section of ramp.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the pencil vertical as you move it across the piece of plywood. Pull the string tightly so you make a smooth, curved line, which is the part of the ramp that leads up to the platforms. When the curved line intersects the straight guide line on the opposite side of the plywood, stop drawing and lift up your pencil.\\nIf there are any wobbles in the curved line, erase them and try drawing it again until it looks smooth.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut along the outline with a jigsaw to make the first transition piece.\", \"描述\": \"Set the plywood on sawhorses so you don’t cut or damage anything. Line the jigsaw’s blade up with the line on the short edge of your board and start your saw. Slowly guide the saw along the outlines for the transition piece, making sure that the cut line doesn’t wobble or waver. Keep cutting until you reach the other short side of the plywood. Your transition piece will look like a trapezoid with one curved side.\\nWear safety glasses whenever you use a jigsaw just in case the wood kicks back.\\nKeep your hands away from the saw’s blade since you could easily injure yourself.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Trace the first transition piece to make 3 more that are the same size.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the first transition piece upside-down and lay it on the leftover piece of plywood. Trace around the outline with a pencil to make your second transition. Repeat the process on another sheet of plywood and cut them out with your saw so you have 4 transition pieces that are all the same size when you’re finished.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Framing the Transitions\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the transitions’ curved edges.\", \"描述\": \"Hold all of the transition pieces together so their curved edges are flush. Bend a tape measure along the curve of the pieces and draw a line every 8 inches (20 cm). Work your way from the bottom of the curve toward the top section with the flat platform so you know where to put your supports.\\nIt’s okay if your last mark doesn’t line up with the top edge of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut boards to 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) long for each mark on a transition.\", \"描述\": \"Count the number of marks you just made on 1 transition piece and add 2 for additional supports in the corners. Multiply the number by 2 to find the total number of boards you need for your transitions. Get 2 in × 4 in (0.051 m × 0.102 m) boards that are 8 feet (2.4 m) long and made for exterior use. Mark ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) in from the short edges of each board. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut the ends off of the boards so they’re square.\\nFor example, if you made 10 marks on a transition piece, you would need 12 boards to build one and 24 boards for both.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the cut boards between the transitions’ bottom corners.\", \"描述\": \"Place one of your 7 ⁄4 ft (2.4 m) boards on its narrow end and position it between the front bottom corners of 2 transition pieces. Keep the board flush with the fronts of the transition pieces and the curved edge so the ramp doesn’t warp. Place 2–3 wood screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the transition pieces into the ends of the board. Place another board between the back bottom corners and attach it the same way. Use the other 2 curved pieces and 2 more boards to construct another transition.\\nThe bottom boards will help ensure the transition pieces stay square so your halfpipe doesn’t get warped or crooked.\\nAlways try to work on a level surface when you’re building your ramp so you don’t attach pieces when they’re crooked.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the cut boards to the transitions so they’re centered on your marks.\", \"描述\": \"Slide one of your cut boards between the transition pieces and line it up with the next mark from the bottom along the curved edge. Rotate the board so the narrow edge sits flush with the transition’s curve. Have a helper hold the board in place while you put 2–3 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws into the ends of the board. Continue working your way up from the bottom, placing the center of the board on each mark until you reach the top of the transition.\\nAvoid putting all of the boards with their widest side flush to the curve since they’re more likely to bend and won’t support your weight as well.\\nWhen you reach the highest mark on your transitions, place the board so the wide, flat side lines up with the curve. This makes it easier to screw in the coping pipe later on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attaching the Flat Bottom\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make 2 wooden box frames that are 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m).\", \"描述\": \"Lay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that’s 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow edge. Position 2 of your 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) boards so the wider sides are flush with the ends of your first board. Position another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so the ends are flush with the outside edges of the longer boards. Put 2–3 screws that are 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) long through the shorter boards so they go into the ends on the longer ones. Make a second frame the same way.\\nAvoid making one large 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) frame since it won’t have the same amount of support.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark every 8 in (20 cm) along the long edges of your frames.\", \"描述\": \"Start your measuring tape on the short side of your frame and extend it 8 inches (20 cm) along the long side. Draw a mark on top of the board at your measurement. Work your way down one of the long sides of the frame before you start marking the other long edge. Make sure the marks that are across from one another line up so they’re parallel to the short edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut boards to 45 in (1.1 m) lengths for each pair of marks.\", \"描述\": \"Count the number of marks on one long edge of your frame so you know how many boards you need for your frame. Get 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards that are 4 feet (1.2 m) long. Measure in 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) in from the ends of the board and mark it with a pencil. Use your jigsaw or a circular saw to cut along your marks so the ends of the board are square.\\nThese boards need to be smaller so they can fit in between the long edges of the frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the cut boards between the marks on your frames.\", \"描述\": \"Slide one of the 45 in (1.1 m) boards into your frame so the marks are on center and the narrow edge faces up. Keep the top edge of the board flush with the edges of the frame. Put 2–3 wood screws into the ends of each board to secure them in place.\\nWork on a level surface to ensure so don’t accidentally position the boards crooked.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw the 2 frames together on their long sides to make the flat bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Press the long edge of one frame against the long edge of the second frame and hold them together tightly. Use 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along the long edge, alternating which frame you start them from. When you’re finished, you’ll have an 8 by 8 feet (2.4 m × 2.4 m) flat bottom for your halfpipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the transitions to the flat bottom with wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the flat bottom on a level surface where you plan to install the halfpipe. Move the transitions next to the edges of the flat bottom so all of the support boards run parallel. Push the transitions tight against the flat bottom so the edges are flush. Attach 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screws through the transitions and into the flat bottom every 1–2 feet (30–61 cm).\\nIf you don’t assemble the halfpipe on a level surface, then the ramp might get warped and you won’t be able to ride on it smoothly.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Surfacing Your Ramp\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Put a layer of ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) plywood on the ramp’s flat section.\", \"描述\": \"Start the first 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood so the long side lines up with where the flat bottom connects to a transition. Set another piece along the edge of the second transition so the plywood forms a tight seam in the middle of the halfpipe.\\nAvoid using any thinner material when you first start surfacing your ramp since it won’t be able to support your weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the plywood in every 1 ft (30 cm) along the supports.\", \"描述\": \"Press the plywood down tightly against the bottom frame so the edges stay flush. Measure in 1 ft (30 cm) from the edge of the frame and sink a 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) wood screw into the support board. Continue across the length of the support to add more screws. Continue driving screws along the full length and width of the plywood sheets so there are at least 4 screws in every horizontal support board.\\nDrive the screws far enough into the wood so the heads don’t stick out, or else you’ll have bumps in your riding surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Step on the plywood to secure it against the transitions.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a plywood sheet down against the curved edge of the transition and press down on it firmly with your foot. The plywood will bend into the shape of the curve so it stays flush with the transition pieces. Keep the plywood pressed against the transition as you screw it every 1 foot (30 cm) into the horizontal supports. Work from the flat bottom up toward the top of the transition so the wood doesn’t warp.\\nIf you can’t keep the plywood down by yourself, ask a helper to put their weight against it while you screw it in.\\nYou may also cut your plywood to 4 ft × 4 ft (1.2 m × 1.2 m) squares since it may be easier to work with smaller pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Offset the second layer of plywood by about 8 inches (20 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Place another piece of plywood onto your halfpipe so the long edge is 8 inches (20 cm) in from the bottom of the transition. Press the plywood down and screw it into the supports with 1 ⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wood screws. Position the screws at least 3–4 inches (7.6–10.2 cm) away from the screws in the first layer so they don’t get damaged. Cover the entire riding surface with your second layer of plywood.\\nThe second layer helps reinforce the ramp so it’s more durable and less likely to break.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) ramp surfacing as your final layer.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re installing the ramp outside, use a specialty ramp surface like Skatelite or Ramp Armor since it’s durable and weatherproof. If you’ve made your ramp indoors, you can use ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) masonite. Lay the sheets of ramp surfacing on top of the plywood and screw it in along the supports with 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws. Place your screws every 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) along the supports to hold them down securely.\\nSpecialty ramp surfacing can cost up to $200 USD for a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet and you can buy it online.\\nMake sure the screw heads don’t stick above the surfacing, or else wheels can get caught on them and make your ride bumpier.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adding the Coping\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drill ⁄8 in (9.5 mm) holes every 2 ft (61 cm) along 2 pipes.\", \"描述\": \"Get 2 PVC or metal pipes that’s 8 feet (2.4 m) long and has a 2 in (5.1 cm) circumference. Put a ⁄8 in (0.95 cm) metal-cutting drill bit into your drill. Make marks on the pipes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so you know where to place your holes. Hold the drill bit perpendicular to the pipe and slowly guide it through 1 side of the pipe.\\nThe pipes used for the copings make it easier to grind and do tricks along the top of your halfpipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) holes in the opposite side of the pipe.\", \"描述\": \"Rotate the pipe by 180 degrees so the holes you just drilled are on the bottom. Change your drill to a ⁄16 in (4.8 mm) bit and lock it in place. Mark holes every 2 feet (0.61 m) so they’re aligned with the holes on the bottom. Push your drill through each mark until you break through to the middle of the pipe.\\nThe larger holes in the pipe allow you to feed a drill bit through them and the smaller holes are where the screws will feed through.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set the copings into the top notches of the transitions so the ends are flush.\", \"描述\": \"The top corners of your transitions will have a small notch between the ramp’s surface and the top edge. Lift the coping pipe onto the transition and set it down in the notch so the smaller holes line up with the narrow edge of the top support board. Make sure the front of the coping sits flush with the ramp’s surface and the ends don’t extend past the sides of the transition.\\nIf the coping overhangs the ramp’s surface, use your jigsaw to cut the notch deeper.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Screw the copings into the top support boards of the transitions.\", \"描述\": \"Have a helper hold the coping pipe in place so it doesn’t move around. Place a 3 in (7.6 cm) wood screw on an extended screwdriver bit and carefully feed it through the larger hole in the top of the coping. Push the tip of the screw through the smaller hole on the bottom of the pipe. Drive the screw straight into the support board until the screw head is flush with the inside edge of the coping. Add screws to the rest of the holes in the copings to secure them to the transitions.\\nScrew the copings in slowly so you don’t damage or split the support board underneath.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Platforms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build 2 wooden frames that are 8 by 4 feet (2.4 m × 1.2 m).\", \"描述\": \"Lay a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 4 ft (1.2 m) long on it’s narrow side. Place 2 boards that are 7 ⁄4 feet (2.4 m) perpendicular to the shorter piece so the sides are flush. Place another 4 ft (1.2 m) board so it’s ends are flush with the outer edges of the long pieces. Screw the shorter boards into the ends of the longer boards with 3 inches (7.6 cm) wood screws to make your box frames.\\nThe frames will look similar to the frames you used on your flat bottom.\\nYou can adjust the platform to whatever width you want, but somewhere between 2–4 feet (61–122 cm) is usually standard for a beginner halfpipe.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark every 16 in (41 cm) along the frames’ long edges.\", \"描述\": \"Measure along the long side of your frame from the corner and make a mark at 8 inches (20 cm). Continue working down the length of the long board and add a new mark every 8 inches (20 cm). Then make marks on the other long board so they line up with the first ones you drew.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure 45 in (1.1 m) boards in the frames on your marks.\", \"描述\": \"Position a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board between the long side pieces so it’s on center with the marks you made and parallel to the short sides. Attach 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long through the long sides of the frame and into the support board. Work your way across the frames until you screw boards in between every set of marks.\\nMake sure the narrow side of the board faces up when you install the supports so they can handle the most weight. Otherwise, they may bend or break.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the platform frames with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Set a 4 ft × 8 ft (1.2 m × 2.4 m) sheet of plywood on top of the support boards so the edges are flush with your frame. Attach 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws every 8 inches (20 cm) along each of the support boards and frame. Work from one short side to the other so the wood doesn’t warp or bubble in the middle.\\nAvoid using plywood that’s any thinner, or else it may not be able to support your weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) posts along the back of the platform.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the height of your transition so you know how tall to make your posts. Transfer your measurement onto a 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) post and cut 3 pieces that are the same height. Place 2 of the posts in the corners on the bottom of the platform and 1 along the back closest to the center support. Use 2–3 wood screws that are 3 inches (7.6 cm) long to attach the top of the platform to the posts.\\nIf you don’t want to buy posts, you can screw 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards together instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw the platforms into the sides of the transitions every 8 in (20 cm).\", \"描述\": \"Push the platforms into the backs of the transitions until the fronts are flush with the coping. Secure 1 ⁄2 in (3.8 cm) screws through the upper edge of the transition so they go into the sides of the platform. Put at least 2–3 screws every 8 inches (20 cm) so the platform stays stable on the transitions. Once you attach the platforms, you’re ready to ride!\\nIf the platforms still don’t feel sturdy when you stand on them, screw boards at a 45-degree angle from each leg so they connect to the bottom supports on the platform.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"See if hardware stores offer equipment rentals so you don’t have to buy all of the tools.\\n\", \"Wear a helmet and pads whenever you use your halfpipe so you’re less likely to get hurt.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t cut or injure yourself.\\n\", \"Make sure to work on a level surface, or else you may make your ramp uneven.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,371
How to Build a Hamster Maze
1. Getting Ready 1-1. Make sure that the room is hamster safe before building the maze. There should be no other animals inside the room, as they could stress the hamster. Cover any possible hiding spots in the room in case the hamster gets out of the maze. Hamster hiding spots include boxes and under furniture. 1-2. Choose your materials. Because hamsters like to chew through everything, it is important that you make your maze out of materials that are safe for hamsters. Because of this, it is best to avoid plastic. Here are two popular options: Cardboard can be sourced from boxes, presentation boards, and even toilet paper rolls. It may not be very durable, but it will be the cheapest option. Make sure that it is thick and strong, or the hamster will chew holes into the walls and run away. Wood is sturdier than cardboard, but also more expensive. When buying wood, make sure that it is a hardwood, such as birch, oak, or walnut. Avoid resinous woods such as pine or cedar, which are toxic for hamsters. Also, make sure that the wood is smooth and free of any cracks or coarse grains that could seriously injure your hamster. You can use wooden boards or blocks. 1-3. Use the right glue. Hot glue would be the most suitable for cardboard while wood glue would be the best for wood. Whatever glue you buy, make sure that it is non toxic, in case the hamster chews on it. You do not want to use nails or screws, even if you are making your maze out of wood; the sharp metal can hurt your pet. 1-4. Choose your base. Look for a wooden board or a sheet of wood that is about 2 feet by 2 feet. This will be the base for your maze. Consider covering the maze with a sheet of plastic. This will make it easier to clean things up if the hamster makes a mess. Be sure to glue or tape the edges of the plastic sheet down so it doesn't slide off. 1-5. Consider getting a large tub to put the maze in once it's built. This will keep the hamster from running away in case it escapes the maze. You can also put the maze into a bathtub or a hamster playpen. If you are using a bathtub, however, make sure that the drain is plugged up and that the bottom of the tub is covered with a cloth or towel. 1-6. Design the layout of your maze. You can either come up with your own on a sheet of paper, or you can use an existing one. Two great places to find ideas for mazes are on the backs of cereal boxes and coloring mats from chain restaurants; many restaurants offer paper placemats with puzzles and mazes for children to solve. Do not worry about the height of the walls yet. Make sure that your maze has straight lines instead of curves; this will make it easier to build. 1-7. Make your maze bigger so that it fits your hamster. You can either enlarge it simply by drawing it bigger, or you can use a photocopier. Aim for something that is 2 feet by 2 feet (centimeters). You can either draw directly onto the base, or you can draw it on a sheet of paper and then glue the paper to the base. 2. Building the Maze 2-1. Start drawing a wall on a sheet of cardboard or wood. It will be shaped like a rectangle. The length needs to be the same as one of the straight lines in your maze. The height should be twice the height of your hamster; this will prevent the hamster from climbing out of the maze. Repeat this process for the other walls. If you do not have enough material to make the walls so high, you can make them the same height as the hamster, but then you will need to cover the entire maze with a sheet of wire mesh so that the hamster doesn't climb out. Consider numbering the walls. Draw a small number on the rectangle you drew, and the same number next to the matching wall in the maze. This will help you remember which wall goes where. 2-2. Start cutting the walls out. If you are using cardboard, you can use a box cutter or an Xacto blade. If you are using a wooden board, then you will have to use a saw. Try cutting a few arches into the walls to make smaller doorways for the hamster. This could make it more interesting. 2-3. Glue the walls down onto the maze, one at a time. Draw a line of glue along one of the lines of your maze, and place the matching wall down. Wait until the glue hardens, or until the wall can stand up on its own, before moving onto the next. Be sure to add glue into the corners, where the walls join. 2-4. Be sure to leave a path through the maze. Leave the entrance and exit open. You can always block the entrance with a piece of wood or cardboard once the hamster is inside. 2-5. Place the maze down on the floor or into a tub. Do not keep it on a table. If the hamster somehow manages to escape, it may fall off the table and get hurt. 3. Adding Variations and Treats 3-1. Leave treats in the maze. You can leave a treat for your hamster at the end of the maze, or you can leave a treat at various points in the maze to help guide your hamster along. Not only can the treats be very rewarding for your hamster, but they can also help motivate the hamster to go through the maze. Try any of the following treats: Barley, oats, and quinoa Flaxseed Pumpkin seed, sesame seed, and sunflower seed Vegetables, such as broccoli, carrot, celery, corn, and green beans 3-2. Try building some of the paths out of toilet paper rolls instead. This will create a tunnel for the hamster to crawl through, and make it more like an obstacle course. Make sure that you poke a few small holes into the tube so that the hamster can breathe. To attach a tube to a wall, cut a hole in the wall first, then stick the tube into the hole. Secure the tube with some hot glue. 3-3. Consider covering the bottom of your maze with a thin layer of its bedding. This will make the maze easier to clean up in case the hamster soils it. The familiar flooring may also help the hamster feel more relaxed and at home. Avoid bedding that is made out of cedar or pine, as this is not safe for hamsters. 3-4. Try building your maze out of wooden blocks. You can also try using plastic bricks, but only if you know that your hamster will not chew on them. Simply arrange the bricks on your base in a maze pattern. If you want the design to be permanent, glue the blocks down using wood glue. If you do not want the maze to be permanent, do not glue them down; the hamster will not be strong enough to move the blocks aside. Make sure that the blocks are twice as tall as your hamster. If you cannot find any blocks are that large enough, try stacking them or covering the entire maze with a wire mesh. 3-5. Try timing your hamster each time you let it run through the maze. The hamster will start to remember the maze, and finished it faster each time. 3-6. Know when it is a good time to run your hamster through the maze. Because hamsters are nocturnal, you may not get very good or exciting results by putting the hamster into the maze during the daytime. Instead, try putting it in when its eyes appear bright and awake. This would most likely be in the evening, although you may be able to catch a few moments of playtime in the afternoon as well. Tips Make sure the hamster can't see over the blocks or climb over them. Don't make the paths too long and straight, or the hamster may get bored. Make it very easy the first time you put your hamster in it, and make it a bit more challenging each time. Warnings Watch your hamster to make sure it does not climb out of the maze. Do not put more than one hamster in a maze, or they may start to fight.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Ready\\n1-1. Make sure that the room is hamster safe before building the maze.\\nThere should be no other animals inside the room, as they could stress the hamster. Cover any possible hiding spots in the room in case the hamster gets out of the maze. Hamster hiding spots include boxes and under furniture.\\n1-2. Choose your materials.\\nBecause hamsters like to chew through everything, it is important that you make your maze out of materials that are safe for hamsters. Because of this, it is best to avoid plastic. Here are two popular options:\\nCardboard can be sourced from boxes, presentation boards, and even toilet paper rolls. It may not be very durable, but it will be the cheapest option. Make sure that it is thick and strong, or the hamster will chew holes into the walls and run away.\\nWood is sturdier than cardboard, but also more expensive. When buying wood, make sure that it is a hardwood, such as birch, oak, or walnut. Avoid resinous woods such as pine or cedar, which are toxic for hamsters. Also, make sure that the wood is smooth and free of any cracks or coarse grains that could seriously injure your hamster. You can use wooden boards or blocks.\\n1-3. Use the right glue.\\nHot glue would be the most suitable for cardboard while wood glue would be the best for wood. Whatever glue you buy, make sure that it is non toxic, in case the hamster chews on it. You do not want to use nails or screws, even if you are making your maze out of wood; the sharp metal can hurt your pet.\\n1-4. Choose your base.\\nLook for a wooden board or a sheet of wood that is about 2 feet by 2 feet. This will be the base for your maze.\\nConsider covering the maze with a sheet of plastic. This will make it easier to clean things up if the hamster makes a mess. Be sure to glue or tape the edges of the plastic sheet down so it doesn't slide off.\\n1-5. Consider getting a large tub to put the maze in once it's built.\\nThis will keep the hamster from running away in case it escapes the maze. You can also put the maze into a bathtub or a hamster playpen. If you are using a bathtub, however, make sure that the drain is plugged up and that the bottom of the tub is covered with a cloth or towel.\\n1-6. Design the layout of your maze.\\nYou can either come up with your own on a sheet of paper, or you can use an existing one. Two great places to find ideas for mazes are on the backs of cereal boxes and coloring mats from chain restaurants; many restaurants offer paper placemats with puzzles and mazes for children to solve. Do not worry about the height of the walls yet.\\nMake sure that your maze has straight lines instead of curves; this will make it easier to build.\\n1-7. Make your maze bigger so that it fits your hamster.\\nYou can either enlarge it simply by drawing it bigger, or you can use a photocopier. Aim for something that is 2 feet by 2 feet (centimeters). You can either draw directly onto the base, or you can draw it on a sheet of paper and then glue the paper to the base.\\n2. Building the Maze\\n2-1. Start drawing a wall on a sheet of cardboard or wood.\\nIt will be shaped like a rectangle. The length needs to be the same as one of the straight lines in your maze. The height should be twice the height of your hamster; this will prevent the hamster from climbing out of the maze. Repeat this process for the other walls.\\nIf you do not have enough material to make the walls so high, you can make them the same height as the hamster, but then you will need to cover the entire maze with a sheet of wire mesh so that the hamster doesn't climb out.\\nConsider numbering the walls. Draw a small number on the rectangle you drew, and the same number next to the matching wall in the maze. This will help you remember which wall goes where.\\n2-2. Start cutting the walls out.\\nIf you are using cardboard, you can use a box cutter or an Xacto blade. If you are using a wooden board, then you will have to use a saw.\\nTry cutting a few arches into the walls to make smaller doorways for the hamster. This could make it more interesting.\\n2-3. Glue the walls down onto the maze, one at a time.\\nDraw a line of glue along one of the lines of your maze, and place the matching wall down. Wait until the glue hardens, or until the wall can stand up on its own, before moving onto the next. Be sure to add glue into the corners, where the walls join.\\n2-4. Be sure to leave a path through the maze.\\nLeave the entrance and exit open. You can always block the entrance with a piece of wood or cardboard once the hamster is inside.\\n2-5. Place the maze down on the floor or into a tub.\\nDo not keep it on a table. If the hamster somehow manages to escape, it may fall off the table and get hurt.\\n3. Adding Variations and Treats\\n3-1. Leave treats in the maze.\\nYou can leave a treat for your hamster at the end of the maze, or you can leave a treat at various points in the maze to help guide your hamster along. Not only can the treats be very rewarding for your hamster, but they can also help motivate the hamster to go through the maze. Try any of the following treats:\\nBarley, oats, and quinoa\\nFlaxseed\\nPumpkin seed, sesame seed, and sunflower seed\\nVegetables, such as broccoli, carrot, celery, corn, and green beans\\n3-2. Try building some of the paths out of toilet paper rolls instead.\\nThis will create a tunnel for the hamster to crawl through, and make it more like an obstacle course. Make sure that you poke a few small holes into the tube so that the hamster can breathe.\\nTo attach a tube to a wall, cut a hole in the wall first, then stick the tube into the hole. Secure the tube with some hot glue.\\n3-3. Consider covering the bottom of your maze with a thin layer of its bedding.\\nThis will make the maze easier to clean up in case the hamster soils it. The familiar flooring may also help the hamster feel more relaxed and at home. Avoid bedding that is made out of cedar or pine, as this is not safe for hamsters.\\n3-4. Try building your maze out of wooden blocks.\\nYou can also try using plastic bricks, but only if you know that your hamster will not chew on them. Simply arrange the bricks on your base in a maze pattern. If you want the design to be permanent, glue the blocks down using wood glue. If you do not want the maze to be permanent, do not glue them down; the hamster will not be strong enough to move the blocks aside.\\nMake sure that the blocks are twice as tall as your hamster. If you cannot find any blocks are that large enough, try stacking them or covering the entire maze with a wire mesh.\\n3-5. Try timing your hamster each time you let it run through the maze.\\nThe hamster will start to remember the maze, and finished it faster each time.\\n3-6. Know when it is a good time to run your hamster through the maze.\\nBecause hamsters are nocturnal, you may not get very good or exciting results by putting the hamster into the maze during the daytime. Instead, try putting it in when its eyes appear bright and awake. This would most likely be in the evening, although you may be able to catch a few moments of playtime in the afternoon as well.\\nTips\\nMake sure the hamster can't see over the blocks or climb over them.\\nDon't make the paths too long and straight, or the hamster may get bored.\\nMake it very easy the first time you put your hamster in it, and make it a bit more challenging each time.\\nWarnings\\nWatch your hamster to make sure it does not climb out of the maze.\\nDo not put more than one hamster in a maze, or they may start to fight.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hamsters make great pets, but they need their exercise. Mazes are a great way to exercise your hamster. They are also a fun way to test your hamster's intellect. This article will show you how to build a hamster maze and give you a few ideas for customizing it.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Ready\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that the room is hamster safe before building the maze.\", \"描述\": \"There should be no other animals inside the room, as they could stress the hamster. Cover any possible hiding spots in the room in case the hamster gets out of the maze. Hamster hiding spots include boxes and under furniture.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Because hamsters like to chew through everything, it is important that you make your maze out of materials that are safe for hamsters. Because of this, it is best to avoid plastic. Here are two popular options:\\nCardboard can be sourced from boxes, presentation boards, and even toilet paper rolls. It may not be very durable, but it will be the cheapest option. Make sure that it is thick and strong, or the hamster will chew holes into the walls and run away.\\nWood is sturdier than cardboard, but also more expensive. When buying wood, make sure that it is a hardwood, such as birch, oak, or walnut. Avoid resinous woods such as pine or cedar, which are toxic for hamsters. Also, make sure that the wood is smooth and free of any cracks or coarse grains that could seriously injure your hamster. You can use wooden boards or blocks.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use the right glue.\", \"描述\": \"Hot glue would be the most suitable for cardboard while wood glue would be the best for wood. Whatever glue you buy, make sure that it is non toxic, in case the hamster chews on it. You do not want to use nails or screws, even if you are making your maze out of wood; the sharp metal can hurt your pet.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose your base.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a wooden board or a sheet of wood that is about 2 feet by 2 feet. This will be the base for your maze.\\nConsider covering the maze with a sheet of plastic. This will make it easier to clean things up if the hamster makes a mess. Be sure to glue or tape the edges of the plastic sheet down so it doesn't slide off.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider getting a large tub to put the maze in once it's built.\", \"描述\": \"This will keep the hamster from running away in case it escapes the maze. You can also put the maze into a bathtub or a hamster playpen. If you are using a bathtub, however, make sure that the drain is plugged up and that the bottom of the tub is covered with a cloth or towel.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Design the layout of your maze.\", \"描述\": \"You can either come up with your own on a sheet of paper, or you can use an existing one. Two great places to find ideas for mazes are on the backs of cereal boxes and coloring mats from chain restaurants; many restaurants offer paper placemats with puzzles and mazes for children to solve. Do not worry about the height of the walls yet.\\nMake sure that your maze has straight lines instead of curves; this will make it easier to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make your maze bigger so that it fits your hamster.\", \"描述\": \"You can either enlarge it simply by drawing it bigger, or you can use a photocopier. Aim for something that is 2 feet by 2 feet (centimeters). You can either draw directly onto the base, or you can draw it on a sheet of paper and then glue the paper to the base.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Maze\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start drawing a wall on a sheet of cardboard or wood.\", \"描述\": \"It will be shaped like a rectangle. The length needs to be the same as one of the straight lines in your maze. The height should be twice the height of your hamster; this will prevent the hamster from climbing out of the maze. Repeat this process for the other walls.\\nIf you do not have enough material to make the walls so high, you can make them the same height as the hamster, but then you will need to cover the entire maze with a sheet of wire mesh so that the hamster doesn't climb out.\\nConsider numbering the walls. Draw a small number on the rectangle you drew, and the same number next to the matching wall in the maze. This will help you remember which wall goes where.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start cutting the walls out.\", \"描述\": \"If you are using cardboard, you can use a box cutter or an Xacto blade. If you are using a wooden board, then you will have to use a saw.\\nTry cutting a few arches into the walls to make smaller doorways for the hamster. This could make it more interesting.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Glue the walls down onto the maze, one at a time.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a line of glue along one of the lines of your maze, and place the matching wall down. Wait until the glue hardens, or until the wall can stand up on its own, before moving onto the next. Be sure to add glue into the corners, where the walls join.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be sure to leave a path through the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Leave the entrance and exit open. You can always block the entrance with a piece of wood or cardboard once the hamster is inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the maze down on the floor or into a tub.\", \"描述\": \"Do not keep it on a table. If the hamster somehow manages to escape, it may fall off the table and get hurt.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Variations and Treats\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Leave treats in the maze.\", \"描述\": \"You can leave a treat for your hamster at the end of the maze, or you can leave a treat at various points in the maze to help guide your hamster along. Not only can the treats be very rewarding for your hamster, but they can also help motivate the hamster to go through the maze. Try any of the following treats:\\nBarley, oats, and quinoa\\nFlaxseed\\nPumpkin seed, sesame seed, and sunflower seed\\nVegetables, such as broccoli, carrot, celery, corn, and green beans\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Try building some of the paths out of toilet paper rolls instead.\", \"描述\": \"This will create a tunnel for the hamster to crawl through, and make it more like an obstacle course. Make sure that you poke a few small holes into the tube so that the hamster can breathe.\\nTo attach a tube to a wall, cut a hole in the wall first, then stick the tube into the hole. Secure the tube with some hot glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Consider covering the bottom of your maze with a thin layer of its bedding.\", \"描述\": \"This will make the maze easier to clean up in case the hamster soils it. The familiar flooring may also help the hamster feel more relaxed and at home. Avoid bedding that is made out of cedar or pine, as this is not safe for hamsters.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Try building your maze out of wooden blocks.\", \"描述\": \"You can also try using plastic bricks, but only if you know that your hamster will not chew on them. Simply arrange the bricks on your base in a maze pattern. If you want the design to be permanent, glue the blocks down using wood glue. If you do not want the maze to be permanent, do not glue them down; the hamster will not be strong enough to move the blocks aside.\\nMake sure that the blocks are twice as tall as your hamster. If you cannot find any blocks are that large enough, try stacking them or covering the entire maze with a wire mesh.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try timing your hamster each time you let it run through the maze.\", \"描述\": \"The hamster will start to remember the maze, and finished it faster each time.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Know when it is a good time to run your hamster through the maze.\", \"描述\": \"Because hamsters are nocturnal, you may not get very good or exciting results by putting the hamster into the maze during the daytime. Instead, try putting it in when its eyes appear bright and awake. This would most likely be in the evening, although you may be able to catch a few moments of playtime in the afternoon as well.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Make sure the hamster can't see over the blocks or climb over them.\\n\", \"Don't make the paths too long and straight, or the hamster may get bored.\\n\", \"Make it very easy the first time you put your hamster in it, and make it a bit more challenging each time.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Watch your hamster to make sure it does not climb out of the maze.\\n\", \"Do not put more than one hamster in a maze, or they may start to fight.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,372
How to Build a Handrail
1. Getting Ready to Build 1-1. Consult your local building authority to learn about building codes. Learn whether you need a permits for handrail construction and whether there are standard specifications for handrails in your area. It is important to ensure that your home improvement projects are compliant with codes set in place for residential buildings. If your work requires a permit, make sure to obtain one before adding onto your home in any way. This prevents any issues that may come about with inspections, potential penalties or violations, and issues that could come about if you ever tried selling your home in the future. If you are not required to obtain a permit, move forward with your building project. 1-2. Measure the rise and the run of your stairs. The run of the railings should be measured from the top step to the bottom step of the stairs, along its diagonal. For a wall-mounted installation, add an additional 2 to 4 inches to each end to use as returns (also called the ends) for people to grab during use of the handrail.. The rise of the railing should be measured according to local building authority codes; this is usually between 34–38 inches (86–97 cm). Measure the rise at 36 inches from the same place at each step, and mark its position with a pencil or chalk. Use a tape measure to draw a straight line on the wall, connecting the 36-inch marks you placed at the top of the stairs in descending order to the very bottom step. Measure where you intend to place brackets that will later be screwed into the wall. Mark the bracket locations using a level to make sure that the brackets are plumb. 1-3. Choose a handrail style. If you’re installing an indoor handrail, it will be mounted to the wall above the stairs. Wood is the most commonly used material for indoor handrails. It is very strong and is attractive, especially oak handrails. Wood is also an option for an outdoor handrail, but is prone to rotting in all but very dry climates. Untreated wood used inside the house must be painted, or treated with oil, or stained and covered with polyurethane. If treating it with oil, use tung oil, linseed oil, or a product based in one of those oils. Avoid water-based products because although they make wood water and moisture resistant, with time they peel and degrade. Metal railings used inside the house are stylish and strong.. Synthetic railings can be shaped and molded to your style needs and can even be made to look like wood. This option is expensive compared to other handrail options, but also more durable. 1-4. Shop for a handrail at a builders supply store, home center or hardware store. There are normally only two styles of wood available for mounting on an inside wall, wide, unfinished oak, an primed pine. The oak should be stained. The thinner pine rail material is normally used for basement stairs. Both types are normally sold only in lengths of 6 ft., 8 ft., 10 ft., etc.(or lengths of 2m, 2.5m, 3m, etc). . If you are installing a wood railing, you can bring home wood samples from your local hardware store to match them to the wood fixtures in your home. 2. Mounting a Handrail on a Wall Inside the House 2-1. Gather your supplies. In addition to the handrail, you will need one bracket to mount at each wall stud, unless the handrail will be mounted on a brick wall (very old homes may have solid brick exterior walls). If it is a very long railing you may limit it to 4 brackets. The screws should come packaged with the brackets. You will need a drill to make pilot holes for the screws. If you own a miter saw, use this to make neat cuts. If not use a hand saw or a circular saw. . For a wall-mounted installation, the handrail should be 8 in. (20 cm) longer than your measurements if you will mount returns because you will cut off 4 inch (10 cm )on either end. Buy brackets if they were not packaged with the railing. They are normally sold in only two sizes, large and small. Each size has several colors to choose from, e.g., black, gold, and white. 2-2. Cut the ends off of your railing. If you will not use returns cut the railing an angle, to make the cut surfaces vertical. This may be too hard if using a hand saw. The exact length will depend on where the brackets are located, the railings should extend at least 4" (10 cm) from a bracket but no more than about 10" (25 cm).. Once you've installed the handrail, the returns can be attached to either end to serve as hand grips. Reverse the placement of the cuts so that the pieces will be able to face the wall at the top and bottom of the rail. 2-3. Install the brackets. Use a stud finder to find the exact edges of the wall studs you will mount to. First drill pilot holes for the screws. Mount all three screws into the wall stud, one will have to be screwed in at a slight angle. Mount brackets at the top and bottom, and set the rail on them to mark the exact locations of the remaining brackets. Repeat until all brackets are securely installed. Be sure that the brackets are vertically plumb before drilling them into place. It's important to make sure that the brackets are installed securely. If they seem loose in the wall, the handrail may not be sturdy enough to support people's weight as they use it. You may want to purchase extra brackets to ensure that the handrail will be held securely in place. 2-4. Place the railing on top of the brackets. Hold the railing in position against the wall along the length of the chalk line. Secure the handrail into its position on the brackets by placing screws into the holes drilled on the railing’s underside. Loosely-secured railings are a serious hazard issue, so be sure that the rail can bear the weight that will be imposed on it daily. If the railing is loose, reinforce the railing from below by applying a metal corner bracket there. 2-5. Install the returns. Place the angled edge of the return against the end of the rail. The flat end of the return should rest against the wall, forming a hand grip. Use wood glue and apply it to the cut edges before securing the return to the rail. Hold it in place for a few minutes to ensure it is securely attached. Repeat with the other return on the other end of the rail. For extra enforcement, hammer in 2-3 nails to connect the returns to the rails. You may need to shorten the returns by an inch or two to ensure that they fit securely against the wall. 3. Installing an Outdoor Handrail with Balusters 3-1. Prepare your deck or porch for building. Inspect the condition of your foundation. If repairs need to be made to floorboards, do so now. The less work done after the rail installation, the better in order to make sure the handrail stays intact for as long as possible. 3-2. Buy your materials. To install a handrail using balusters, rather than installing one on a wall, you'll need quite a few materials in addition to the handrail you have chosen. If you're installing double handrails, one on either side of your set of stairs, double the quantity of supplies you purchase. The handrail should be a 2"x4" (5 cm x 10 cm) board of cedar or pressure treated pine. Both of these are rot resistant. Cedar can be painted with any type of paint. Pressure treated pine can only be painted with solid stain, but does not need to be painted. Buy handrail boards that are splinter-free, and very straight. Buy two 4"x4" (10 cm x 10 cm) newel posts (posts). They are normally sold in 8 ft. lengths ( 2.5 m) and longer, and must be cut. Buy one baluster for each stair step. Balusters are the spindles that connect the rail to each step. The height of the balusters should be between 30 and 36 inches, depending on how high you want the railing to be. For secure installation of newel posts, you'll need a post-hole digger and concrete mix to pour into the holes. Buy sure-tite fasteners to secure the balusters to the steps. Depending on the style of railing you install, you may need additional reinforcement supplies, such as a finish nail gun and a screwdigger. 3-3. Install the newel posts. If you're replacing an old handrail, your set of stairs may already have newel posts at the top and bottom that you can use to support your new handrail. If not, you'll need to install posts before you can install your rail. To install a post in the ground, dig a hole 18" deep and about 9" wide. You will need a post-hole digger, and if there are rocks you may need a rock bar. Stand the post in the hole and fill the hole almost to the top with concrete. To hold the post vertical while the concrete dries, nail one 1" x 2" strip from its top to the stairway, and another at a right angle, nailed to a small tent post you hammer into the ground. Use a large level to make the post perfectly vertical. Allow 3 days for the concrete to set before installing the handrail. To mount a post to a wooden deck, mount the post to the stringer. Use four Timber Lock screws or two 3/8" galvanized lag bolts with lock washers. Use construction adhesive for extra strength. 3-4. Install the balusters at the appropriate point on each stair. Make sure the balusters are lined up with the newel posts at either end of the stairs. Drill holes into each step, then thread the holes with sure-tite fasteners. If your balusters don't already have holes, you'll need to drill them. Drill a standard sized access hole into the bottom of the balusters. Into the side of each baluster, drill another access hole horizontally to intersect the first hole. Set each baluster, or spindle, onto the sure-tite fasteners on each step. Tighten them down with a wrench. 3-5. Attach the handrail to the newel posts and balusters. Apply wood glue or epoxy glue to the top of the posts. Fit the handrail into place. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry before using the handrail, then secure the handrail and balusters together one at a time with a finish nail gun. Mount the ends of the handrail to the posts using three 3" or 3 1/2" deck screws. Screw in 2 screws from the top and one from the side. First drill pilot holes through the handrail to prevent it from cracking. Cover over the screws with exterior caulk. Caulk the gaps between the hand rails and the posts. 3-6. If pressure treated pine was not used, apply exterior primer to your finished handrail. After the primer dries, apply a second coat. If you paint the handrail and railing, use an oil based paint because it better withstands dirt and harsh weather. To stain the wood, choose a wood stain that contains a deck sealer to preserve the look and feel of the wood. Tips Pre-measure the baluster lines, mark out where the newels will be placed, and determine the height of the handrails. Remember to measure twice, and cut once. Do not cut any of your pieces until you have laid it all out to see how it will fit.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Ready to Build\\n1-1. Consult your local building authority to learn about building codes.\\nLearn whether you need a permits for handrail construction and whether there are standard specifications for handrails in your area. It is important to ensure that your home improvement projects are compliant with codes set in place for residential buildings.\\nIf your work requires a permit, make sure to obtain one before adding onto your home in any way. This prevents any issues that may come about with inspections, potential penalties or violations, and issues that could come about if you ever tried selling your home in the future.\\nIf you are not required to obtain a permit, move forward with your building project.\\n1-2. Measure the rise and the run of your stairs.\\nThe run of the railings should be measured from the top step to the bottom step of the stairs, along its diagonal. For a wall-mounted installation, add an additional 2 to 4 inches to each end to use as returns (also called the ends) for people to grab during use of the handrail..\\nThe rise of the railing should be measured according to local building authority codes; this is usually between 34–38 inches (86–97 cm).\\nMeasure the rise at 36 inches from the same place at each step, and mark its position with a pencil or chalk.\\nUse a tape measure to draw a straight line on the wall, connecting the 36-inch marks you placed at the top of the stairs in descending order to the very bottom step.\\nMeasure where you intend to place brackets that will later be screwed into the wall. Mark the bracket locations using a level to make sure that the brackets are plumb.\\n1-3. Choose a handrail style.\\nIf you’re installing an indoor handrail, it will be mounted to the wall above the stairs.\\nWood is the most commonly used material for indoor handrails. It is very strong and is attractive, especially oak handrails. Wood is also an option for an outdoor handrail, but is prone to rotting in all but very dry climates.\\nUntreated wood used inside the house must be painted, or treated with oil, or stained and covered with polyurethane. If treating it with oil, use tung oil, linseed oil, or a product based in one of those oils. Avoid water-based products because although they make wood water and moisture resistant, with time they peel and degrade.\\nMetal railings used inside the house are stylish and strong.. \\nSynthetic railings can be shaped and molded to your style needs and can even be made to look like wood. This option is expensive compared to other handrail options, but also more durable.\\n1-4. Shop for a handrail at a builders supply store, home center or hardware store.\\nThere are normally only two styles of wood available for mounting on an inside wall, wide, unfinished oak, an primed pine. The oak should be stained. The thinner pine rail material is normally used for basement stairs. Both types are normally sold only in lengths of 6 ft., 8 ft., 10 ft., etc.(or lengths of 2m, 2.5m, 3m, etc). .\\nIf you are installing a wood railing, you can bring home wood samples from your local hardware store to match them to the wood fixtures in your home.\\n2. Mounting a Handrail on a Wall Inside the House\\n2-1. Gather your supplies.\\nIn addition to the handrail, you will need one bracket to mount at each wall stud, unless the handrail will be mounted on a brick wall (very old homes may have solid brick exterior walls). If it is a very long railing you may limit it to 4 brackets. The screws should come packaged with the brackets. You will need a drill to make pilot holes for the screws. If you own a miter saw, use this to make neat cuts. If not use a hand saw or a circular saw. .\\nFor a wall-mounted installation, the handrail should be 8 in. (20 cm) longer than your measurements if you will mount returns because you will cut off 4 inch (10 cm )on either end.\\nBuy brackets if they were not packaged with the railing. They are normally sold in only two sizes, large and small. Each size has several colors to choose from, e.g., black, gold, and white.\\n2-2. Cut the ends off of your railing.\\nIf you will not use returns cut the railing an angle, to make the cut surfaces vertical. This may be too hard if using a hand saw. The exact length will depend on where the brackets are located, the railings should extend at least 4\\\" (10 cm) from a bracket but no more than about 10\\\" (25 cm).. Once you've installed the handrail, the returns can be attached to either end to serve as hand grips.\\nReverse the placement of the cuts so that the pieces will be able to face the wall at the top and bottom of the rail.\\n2-3. Install the brackets.\\nUse a stud finder to find the exact edges of the wall studs you will mount to. First drill pilot holes for the screws. Mount all three screws into the wall stud, one will have to be screwed in at a slight angle. Mount brackets at the top and bottom, and set the rail on them to mark the exact locations of the remaining brackets. Repeat until all brackets are securely installed. Be sure that the brackets are vertically plumb before drilling them into place.\\nIt's important to make sure that the brackets are installed securely. If they seem loose in the wall, the handrail may not be sturdy enough to support people's weight as they use it.\\nYou may want to purchase extra brackets to ensure that the handrail will be held securely in place.\\n2-4. Place the railing on top of the brackets.\\nHold the railing in position against the wall along the length of the chalk line. Secure the handrail into its position on the brackets by placing screws into the holes drilled on the railing’s underside.\\nLoosely-secured railings are a serious hazard issue, so be sure that the rail can bear the weight that will be imposed on it daily.\\nIf the railing is loose, reinforce the railing from below by applying a metal corner bracket there.\\n2-5. Install the returns.\\nPlace the angled edge of the return against the end of the rail. The flat end of the return should rest against the wall, forming a hand grip. Use wood glue and apply it to the cut edges before securing the return to the rail. Hold it in place for a few minutes to ensure it is securely attached. Repeat with the other return on the other end of the rail. \\nFor extra enforcement, hammer in 2-3 nails to connect the returns to the rails.\\nYou may need to shorten the returns by an inch or two to ensure that they fit securely against the wall.\\n3. Installing an Outdoor Handrail with Balusters\\n3-1. Prepare your deck or porch for building.\\nInspect the condition of your foundation. If repairs need to be made to floorboards, do so now. The less work done after the rail installation, the better in order to make sure the handrail stays intact for as long as possible.\\n3-2. Buy your materials.\\nTo install a handrail using balusters, rather than installing one on a wall, you'll need quite a few materials in addition to the handrail you have chosen. If you're installing double handrails, one on either side of your set of stairs, double the quantity of supplies you purchase.\\nThe handrail should be a 2\\\"x4\\\" (5 cm x 10 cm) board of cedar or pressure treated pine. Both of these are rot resistant. Cedar can be painted with any type of paint. Pressure treated pine can only be painted with solid stain, but does not need to be painted.\\nBuy handrail boards that are splinter-free, and very straight.\\nBuy two 4\\\"x4\\\" (10 cm x 10 cm) newel posts (posts). They are normally sold in 8 ft. lengths ( 2.5 m) and longer, and must be cut.\\nBuy one baluster for each stair step. Balusters are the spindles that connect the rail to each step. The height of the balusters should be between 30 and 36 inches, depending on how high you want the railing to be.\\nFor secure installation of newel posts, you'll need a post-hole digger and concrete mix to pour into the holes.\\nBuy sure-tite fasteners to secure the balusters to the steps.\\nDepending on the style of railing you install, you may need additional reinforcement supplies, such as a finish nail gun and a screwdigger.\\n3-3. Install the newel posts.\\nIf you're replacing an old handrail, your set of stairs may already have newel posts at the top and bottom that you can use to support your new handrail. If not, you'll need to install posts before you can install your rail.\\nTo install a post in the ground, dig a hole 18\\\" deep and about 9\\\" wide. You will need a post-hole digger, and if there are rocks you may need a rock bar. Stand the post in the hole and fill the hole almost to the top with concrete. To hold the post vertical while the concrete dries, nail one 1\\\" x 2\\\" strip from its top to the stairway, and another at a right angle, nailed to a small tent post you hammer into the ground. Use a large level to make the post perfectly vertical. Allow 3 days for the concrete to set before installing the handrail.\\nTo mount a post to a wooden deck, mount the post to the stringer. Use four Timber Lock screws or two 3/8\\\" galvanized lag bolts with lock washers. Use construction adhesive for extra strength.\\n3-4. Install the balusters at the appropriate point on each stair.\\nMake sure the balusters are lined up with the newel posts at either end of the stairs.\\nDrill holes into each step, then thread the holes with sure-tite fasteners.\\nIf your balusters don't already have holes, you'll need to drill them. Drill a standard sized access hole into the bottom of the balusters. Into the side of each baluster, drill another access hole horizontally to intersect the first hole.\\nSet each baluster, or spindle, onto the sure-tite fasteners on each step. Tighten them down with a wrench.\\n3-5. Attach the handrail to the newel posts and balusters.\\nApply wood glue or epoxy glue to the top of the posts. Fit the handrail into place. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry before using the handrail, then secure the handrail and balusters together one at a time with a finish nail gun.\\nMount the ends of the handrail to the posts using three 3\\\" or 3 1/2\\\" deck screws. Screw in 2 screws from the top and one from the side. First drill pilot holes through the handrail to prevent it from cracking. Cover over the screws with exterior caulk.\\nCaulk the gaps between the hand rails and the posts.\\n3-6. If pressure treated pine was not used, apply exterior primer to your finished handrail.\\nAfter the primer dries, apply a second coat.\\nIf you paint the handrail and railing, use an oil based paint because it better withstands dirt and harsh weather.\\nTo stain the wood, choose a wood stain that contains a deck sealer to preserve the look and feel of the wood.\\nTips\\nPre-measure the baluster lines, mark out where the newels will be placed, and determine the height of the handrails.\\nRemember to measure twice, and cut once.\\nDo not cut any of your pieces until you have laid it all out to see how it will fit.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Stairways are centerpieces in the home, often practical and decorative. Building a handrail yourself is an inexpensive way to add a new look and feel to stairs in your home, whether indoors or outdoors. A strong and attractive handrail can have an aesthetic value as well as ensuring that the staircase is safe to use.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Ready to Build\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Consult your local building authority to learn about building codes.\", \"描述\": \"Learn whether you need a permits for handrail construction and whether there are standard specifications for handrails in your area. It is important to ensure that your home improvement projects are compliant with codes set in place for residential buildings.\\nIf your work requires a permit, make sure to obtain one before adding onto your home in any way. This prevents any issues that may come about with inspections, potential penalties or violations, and issues that could come about if you ever tried selling your home in the future.\\nIf you are not required to obtain a permit, move forward with your building project.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure the rise and the run of your stairs.\", \"描述\": \"The run of the railings should be measured from the top step to the bottom step of the stairs, along its diagonal. For a wall-mounted installation, add an additional 2 to 4 inches to each end to use as returns (also called the ends) for people to grab during use of the handrail..\\nThe rise of the railing should be measured according to local building authority codes; this is usually between 34–38 inches (86–97 cm).\\nMeasure the rise at 36 inches from the same place at each step, and mark its position with a pencil or chalk.\\nUse a tape measure to draw a straight line on the wall, connecting the 36-inch marks you placed at the top of the stairs in descending order to the very bottom step.\\nMeasure where you intend to place brackets that will later be screwed into the wall. Mark the bracket locations using a level to make sure that the brackets are plumb.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose a handrail style.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re installing an indoor handrail, it will be mounted to the wall above the stairs.\\nWood is the most commonly used material for indoor handrails. It is very strong and is attractive, especially oak handrails. Wood is also an option for an outdoor handrail, but is prone to rotting in all but very dry climates.\\nUntreated wood used inside the house must be painted, or treated with oil, or stained and covered with polyurethane. If treating it with oil, use tung oil, linseed oil, or a product based in one of those oils. Avoid water-based products because although they make wood water and moisture resistant, with time they peel and degrade.\\nMetal railings used inside the house are stylish and strong.. \\nSynthetic railings can be shaped and molded to your style needs and can even be made to look like wood. This option is expensive compared to other handrail options, but also more durable.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Shop for a handrail at a builders supply store, home center or hardware store.\", \"描述\": \"There are normally only two styles of wood available for mounting on an inside wall, wide, unfinished oak, an primed pine. The oak should be stained. The thinner pine rail material is normally used for basement stairs. Both types are normally sold only in lengths of 6 ft., 8 ft., 10 ft., etc.(or lengths of 2m, 2.5m, 3m, etc). .\\nIf you are installing a wood railing, you can bring home wood samples from your local hardware store to match them to the wood fixtures in your home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mounting a Handrail on a Wall Inside the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your supplies.\", \"描述\": \"In addition to the handrail, you will need one bracket to mount at each wall stud, unless the handrail will be mounted on a brick wall (very old homes may have solid brick exterior walls). If it is a very long railing you may limit it to 4 brackets. The screws should come packaged with the brackets. You will need a drill to make pilot holes for the screws. If you own a miter saw, use this to make neat cuts. If not use a hand saw or a circular saw. .\\nFor a wall-mounted installation, the handrail should be 8 in. (20 cm) longer than your measurements if you will mount returns because you will cut off 4 inch (10 cm )on either end.\\nBuy brackets if they were not packaged with the railing. They are normally sold in only two sizes, large and small. Each size has several colors to choose from, e.g., black, gold, and white.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut the ends off of your railing.\", \"描述\": \"If you will not use returns cut the railing an angle, to make the cut surfaces vertical. This may be too hard if using a hand saw. The exact length will depend on where the brackets are located, the railings should extend at least 4\\\" (10 cm) from a bracket but no more than about 10\\\" (25 cm).. Once you've installed the handrail, the returns can be attached to either end to serve as hand grips.\\nReverse the placement of the cuts so that the pieces will be able to face the wall at the top and bottom of the rail.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Use a stud finder to find the exact edges of the wall studs you will mount to. First drill pilot holes for the screws. Mount all three screws into the wall stud, one will have to be screwed in at a slight angle. Mount brackets at the top and bottom, and set the rail on them to mark the exact locations of the remaining brackets. Repeat until all brackets are securely installed. Be sure that the brackets are vertically plumb before drilling them into place.\\nIt's important to make sure that the brackets are installed securely. If they seem loose in the wall, the handrail may not be sturdy enough to support people's weight as they use it.\\nYou may want to purchase extra brackets to ensure that the handrail will be held securely in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place the railing on top of the brackets.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the railing in position against the wall along the length of the chalk line. Secure the handrail into its position on the brackets by placing screws into the holes drilled on the railing’s underside.\\nLoosely-secured railings are a serious hazard issue, so be sure that the rail can bear the weight that will be imposed on it daily.\\nIf the railing is loose, reinforce the railing from below by applying a metal corner bracket there.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the returns.\", \"描述\": \"Place the angled edge of the return against the end of the rail. The flat end of the return should rest against the wall, forming a hand grip. Use wood glue and apply it to the cut edges before securing the return to the rail. Hold it in place for a few minutes to ensure it is securely attached. Repeat with the other return on the other end of the rail. \\nFor extra enforcement, hammer in 2-3 nails to connect the returns to the rails.\\nYou may need to shorten the returns by an inch or two to ensure that they fit securely against the wall.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Installing an Outdoor Handrail with Balusters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Prepare your deck or porch for building.\", \"描述\": \"Inspect the condition of your foundation. If repairs need to be made to floorboards, do so now. The less work done after the rail installation, the better in order to make sure the handrail stays intact for as long as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy your materials.\", \"描述\": \"To install a handrail using balusters, rather than installing one on a wall, you'll need quite a few materials in addition to the handrail you have chosen. If you're installing double handrails, one on either side of your set of stairs, double the quantity of supplies you purchase.\\nThe handrail should be a 2\\\"x4\\\" (5 cm x 10 cm) board of cedar or pressure treated pine. Both of these are rot resistant. Cedar can be painted with any type of paint. Pressure treated pine can only be painted with solid stain, but does not need to be painted.\\nBuy handrail boards that are splinter-free, and very straight.\\nBuy two 4\\\"x4\\\" (10 cm x 10 cm) newel posts (posts). They are normally sold in 8 ft. lengths ( 2.5 m) and longer, and must be cut.\\nBuy one baluster for each stair step. Balusters are the spindles that connect the rail to each step. The height of the balusters should be between 30 and 36 inches, depending on how high you want the railing to be.\\nFor secure installation of newel posts, you'll need a post-hole digger and concrete mix to pour into the holes.\\nBuy sure-tite fasteners to secure the balusters to the steps.\\nDepending on the style of railing you install, you may need additional reinforcement supplies, such as a finish nail gun and a screwdigger.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the newel posts.\", \"描述\": \"If you're replacing an old handrail, your set of stairs may already have newel posts at the top and bottom that you can use to support your new handrail. If not, you'll need to install posts before you can install your rail.\\nTo install a post in the ground, dig a hole 18\\\" deep and about 9\\\" wide. You will need a post-hole digger, and if there are rocks you may need a rock bar. Stand the post in the hole and fill the hole almost to the top with concrete. To hold the post vertical while the concrete dries, nail one 1\\\" x 2\\\" strip from its top to the stairway, and another at a right angle, nailed to a small tent post you hammer into the ground. Use a large level to make the post perfectly vertical. Allow 3 days for the concrete to set before installing the handrail.\\nTo mount a post to a wooden deck, mount the post to the stringer. Use four Timber Lock screws or two 3/8\\\" galvanized lag bolts with lock washers. Use construction adhesive for extra strength.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install the balusters at the appropriate point on each stair.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the balusters are lined up with the newel posts at either end of the stairs.\\nDrill holes into each step, then thread the holes with sure-tite fasteners.\\nIf your balusters don't already have holes, you'll need to drill them. Drill a standard sized access hole into the bottom of the balusters. Into the side of each baluster, drill another access hole horizontally to intersect the first hole.\\nSet each baluster, or spindle, onto the sure-tite fasteners on each step. Tighten them down with a wrench.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the handrail to the newel posts and balusters.\", \"描述\": \"Apply wood glue or epoxy glue to the top of the posts. Fit the handrail into place. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry before using the handrail, then secure the handrail and balusters together one at a time with a finish nail gun.\\nMount the ends of the handrail to the posts using three 3\\\" or 3 1/2\\\" deck screws. Screw in 2 screws from the top and one from the side. First drill pilot holes through the handrail to prevent it from cracking. Cover over the screws with exterior caulk.\\nCaulk the gaps between the hand rails and the posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"If pressure treated pine was not used, apply exterior primer to your finished handrail.\", \"描述\": \"After the primer dries, apply a second coat.\\nIf you paint the handrail and railing, use an oil based paint because it better withstands dirt and harsh weather.\\nTo stain the wood, choose a wood stain that contains a deck sealer to preserve the look and feel of the wood.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Pre-measure the baluster lines, mark out where the newels will be placed, and determine the height of the handrails.\\n\", \"Remember to measure twice, and cut once.\\n\", \"Do not cut any of your pieces until you have laid it all out to see how it will fit.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,373
How to Build a Headache Rack
1. Steps 1-1. Cut the top of the crossbar to the length of the top of your cap or on a 1991 Ford cut at 58 inches (147.3 cm). 1-2. Cut two sides at 35 degrees at both ends going opposite directions at 23 inches (58.4 cm) in length. 1-3. Tack where the sides angle out. Take and check how it fits on the pickup truck. 1-4. Cut two more pieces (21 inches long) to place on each side of your slider window. If there's no slider window, go 1/3 of the way in from each side. 1-5. Tack and check once more. 1-6. Cut your 1 ⁄2 inch (3.8 cm) x ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) flat strap into 4 x 6 inch pieces. 1-7. Tack the end pieces on to run with the bed flush to the front of the rack. Take the other two pieces, center, and tack them running with the cab. 1-8. Drill your hole in both rack bases and bed to line up and bolt. Tips Take your time, use common sense, and don't worry if pieces don't fit. Try make larger pieces and go a little smaller each time until they fit. Warnings Dimensions may not fit your pick-up.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Cut the top of the crossbar to the length of the top of your cap or on a 1991 Ford cut at 58 inches (147.3 cm).\\n\\n1-2. Cut two sides at 35 degrees at both ends going opposite directions at 23 inches (58.4 cm) in length.\\n\\n1-3. Tack where the sides angle out.\\nTake and check how it fits on the pickup truck.\\n1-4. Cut two more pieces (21 inches long) to place on each side of your slider window.\\nIf there's no slider window, go 1/3 of the way in from each side.\\n1-5. Tack and check once more.\\n\\n1-6. Cut your 1 ⁄2 inch (3.8 cm) x ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) flat strap into 4 x 6 inch pieces.\\n\\n1-7. Tack the end pieces on to run with the bed flush to the front of the rack.\\nTake the other two pieces, center, and tack them running with the cab.\\n1-8. Drill your hole in both rack bases and bed to line up and bolt.\\n\\nTips\\nTake your time, use common sense, and don't worry if pieces don't fit. Try make larger pieces and go a little smaller each time until they fit.\\nWarnings\\nDimensions may not fit your pick-up.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Bulkhead (Headache rack) \\nA strong wall-like structure placed at the front of a flatbed trailer (or on the rear of the tractor) used to protect the driver against shifting cargo during a front-end collision. A bulkhead may also refer to any separator within a dry or liquid trailer (also called a baffle for liquid trailers) used to partition the load.\\n\\nBuilding a headache rack is not an extremely hard task and is relatively cheap. All you need is 25 feet (7.6 m) of 1 ⁄2 inch (3.8 cm) square tubing, 2 feet (0.6 m) of 1/4 x 1 1/2 inch strip of metal, a welder, and a chop saw.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the top of the crossbar to the length of the top of your cap or on a 1991 Ford cut at 58 inches (147.3 cm).\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut two sides at 35 degrees at both ends going opposite directions at 23 inches (58.4 cm) in length.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tack where the sides angle out.\", \"描述\": \"Take and check how it fits on the pickup truck.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut two more pieces (21 inches long) to place on each side of your slider window.\", \"描述\": \"If there's no slider window, go 1/3 of the way in from each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tack and check once more.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut your 1 ⁄2 inch (3.8 cm) x ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) flat strap into 4 x 6 inch pieces.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tack the end pieces on to run with the bed flush to the front of the rack.\", \"描述\": \"Take the other two pieces, center, and tack them running with the cab.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Drill your hole in both rack bases and bed to line up and bolt.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Take your time, use common sense, and don't worry if pieces don't fit. Try make larger pieces and go a little smaller each time until they fit.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Dimensions may not fit your pick-up.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,374
How to Build a Headboard for a Bed
1. Getting Your Materials Together 1-1. Choose the wood that you'll use for the base of the headboard. Most headboards are constructed out of wood, so your first step is going to be finding a large-enough piece of wood that you can fashion into a headboard. Check your bed to see that the candidate is at least as wide as your bed; headboards that are flush with the width of the bed look best. Here are some ideas about wood that you can use: Any piece of plywood. There's no need to break the bank if you're just going to cover it anyway. An old or new door. If buying a new door, look for a hollow-core door, as they are cheaper and less heavy. A piece of metal. Perhaps some corrugated tin roofing could be cut into an elegant pattern? Some rehabbed shutters. Adds texture and, if the shutters are in the right condition, an homey vintage look. Some chalkboard. Perfect for those who like to write and doodle, this gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "playing in bed." 1-2. Create a faux headboard if you don't have the right kind of materials. Who said a headboard needed to be a plank of wood, filled with batting, and covered with fabric? A headboard can be so many things, even if they aren't true headboard. Use your imagination: Paint out or make a decal for your headboard. This won't actually give you a headboard, but you can do a lot with just a little. Use a piece of architectural salvage to hang above your bed. A piece of antique wood salvage can brighten up your room just like a headboard. Cut out fabric in the shape of a headboard. Again, no real board to speak of, but the same great headboard effect. Turn a mirror or big painting into a headboard. Mirrors are great for enlarging the feel of the room, while paintings show off your artistic sense. Either can make a suitable headboard. 1-3. Cut the wood or other headboard material into the dimensions that match your bed. While some headboards can be larger than the width of the bed, most headboards line up exactly as wide as the bed is. Figure out how wide your bed is and mark those measurements onto the headboard material. Cut the material accordingly. If you're buying plywood or a door from a retail store, you might be able to have the store cut the wood for you if you already know the dimensions. Large retail stores like Lowe's or Home Depot provide this service for free, as might smaller mom & pop stores. Remember to be cautious with your cutting. You can always cut more off, but you can never add more on. If you're not sure how big you want your headboard to be in the beginning, cut off a little first, and then more if necessary. 1-4. Cut padding for the headboard. You ideally want your headboard to be soft and giving, not hard as a rock. In order to get this softness under your headboard, you're going to need a bit of padding. Drape your padding over the headboard and trace an outline around the edges of the headboard. Cut it so that it fits perfectly over the headboard. Foam can be used but may be expensive. Since foam is petroleum-based, its price fluctuates along with the price of gas. Use egg crate mattress topper for a cheap alternative to foam. Egg crate mattress topper should cost less than $20. Two egg crate mattress toppers laid in on one another make a smooth surface. Polyester padding can also be used. For a little bit extra, polyester padding has springiness and give, making a great batting material. 1-5. Cut the batting so that it's slightly bigger than the outline of your headboard. Since you're going to staple the batting onto the back of the headboard, you want it to be big enough to reach behind the headboard. 2. Assembling Your Headboard 2-1. If you're making a tufted headboard, drill your holes first. Tufted headboards add marvelous texture and look, especially if the fabric you're using on the headboard is monochrome. For now, drill ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) holes into the headboard, all the way through the material. Your buttons, which will give you the tufted look, will eventually fit into these holes. You can use several different patterns when drilling your holes. Your tufts can be evenly spaced above and below one another, in a grid pattern, or they can be spaced out on a diagonal. Choose whichever pattern suits you the best. 2-2. Use a spray fixative to attach the padding to the back of the headboard. Make sure that the fixative you use actually works with the padding you've purchased. Fixative is both very sticky and quite toxic, so make sure you only spray it onto the padding and use a mask when spraying. (Opening any windows is a great idea; working in an open garage might be an even better one.) 2-3. Pull the batting taut over the padding on the front of the headboard and staple it onto the back of the headboard. A manual or electric staple gun will work just fine here. 2-4. Iron any wrinkles out of your headboard fabric. Hit the fabric with a little bit of steam before you drape it over your headboard. Many people forget to do this, giving the fabric less of a professional look. Once you're done, lay your fabric face down on the floor and place your batted headboard on top of it, batting-side down. 2-5. Line up the pattern of the fabric with the headboard and begin stapling the fabric down to the back of the headboard. This is a crucial step, so don't be afraid to take your time here in order to get it right. A couple things for you to remember as you staple the fabric to the headboard: Use clamps or vices to get the pattern of the fabric lined up with the center of the headboard. Staple one or two times, and then check to see if the pattern looks good by turning the headboard over. Be sure to get the fabric as taut as possible. Staple well and staple often. Since no one will be able to see the staples on the back side of the headboard, you can go a little crazy here. (Well, don't go crazy, but more is definitely better than not enough!) Take care around corners and rounded parts. Be sure to pull the fabric taut, especially over rounded parts and edges. 2-6. Feed your buttons through the holes for a tufted look. On the back of the headboard, slide a long needle through the various holes for the buttons. On the other side of the headboard, locate the needle. Attach the buttons to sturdy, thick string, and attach the string to another needle. Using the first needle as a guide, feed the strung needle back into the hole in the headboard. Pull button taut to create tufts; staple the string to the back of the headboard several times, until it is secure. 2-7. Attach the headboard to your wall. You're almost done now. There are several ways that you can attach a headboard to the wall. Here are a few of your options: Slide the headboard between the bed and the wall and let the two prop the headboard up. So no construction required; simple and safe if your headboard extends all the way down to the floor. Use a headboard hanger. These come in two long, flat pieces of metal, each with a protruding groove. Attach one piece to the wall, another piece to the back of the headboard. The two protruding grooves fit perfectly in one another, keeping the headboard safely propped up. Use flush mount hangers. Less sturdy than headboard hangers, but much less expensive, these flush mount hangers have teeth that fit into their bases on the wall. Instead of a long, flat bar, these are small pieces of metal. Tips Anything can turn into a headboard: a picket fence, garden gate, scrap wood, shelves, chair backs, even thick twigs/branches for a country cottage look. Wood glue will give your headboard extra durability. If making a fabric headboard, you can use a fabric that coordinates with the rest of your color scheme. Warnings Wear protective eye gear, gloves, etc. Always follow the manufacturers' directions for their products.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Getting Your Materials Together\\n1-1. Choose the wood that you'll use for the base of the headboard.\\nMost headboards are constructed out of wood, so your first step is going to be finding a large-enough piece of wood that you can fashion into a headboard. Check your bed to see that the candidate is at least as wide as your bed; headboards that are flush with the width of the bed look best. Here are some ideas about wood that you can use:\\nAny piece of plywood. There's no need to break the bank if you're just going to cover it anyway.\\nAn old or new door. If buying a new door, look for a hollow-core door, as they are cheaper and less heavy.\\nA piece of metal. Perhaps some corrugated tin roofing could be cut into an elegant pattern?\\nSome rehabbed shutters. Adds texture and, if the shutters are in the right condition, an homey vintage look.\\nSome chalkboard. Perfect for those who like to write and doodle, this gives a whole new meaning to the phrase \\\"playing in bed.\\\"\\n1-2. Create a faux headboard if you don't have the right kind of materials.\\nWho said a headboard needed to be a plank of wood, filled with batting, and covered with fabric? A headboard can be so many things, even if they aren't true headboard. Use your imagination:\\nPaint out or make a decal for your headboard. This won't actually give you a headboard, but you can do a lot with just a little.\\nUse a piece of architectural salvage to hang above your bed. A piece of antique wood salvage can brighten up your room just like a headboard.\\nCut out fabric in the shape of a headboard. Again, no real board to speak of, but the same great headboard effect.\\nTurn a mirror or big painting into a headboard. Mirrors are great for enlarging the feel of the room, while paintings show off your artistic sense. Either can make a suitable headboard.\\n1-3. Cut the wood or other headboard material into the dimensions that match your bed.\\nWhile some headboards can be larger than the width of the bed, most headboards line up exactly as wide as the bed is. Figure out how wide your bed is and mark those measurements onto the headboard material. Cut the material accordingly.\\nIf you're buying plywood or a door from a retail store, you might be able to have the store cut the wood for you if you already know the dimensions. Large retail stores like Lowe's or Home Depot provide this service for free, as might smaller mom & pop stores.\\nRemember to be cautious with your cutting. You can always cut more off, but you can never add more on. If you're not sure how big you want your headboard to be in the beginning, cut off a little first, and then more if necessary.\\n1-4. Cut padding for the headboard.\\nYou ideally want your headboard to be soft and giving, not hard as a rock. In order to get this softness under your headboard, you're going to need a bit of padding. Drape your padding over the headboard and trace an outline around the edges of the headboard. Cut it so that it fits perfectly over the headboard.\\nFoam can be used but may be expensive. Since foam is petroleum-based, its price fluctuates along with the price of gas.\\nUse egg crate mattress topper for a cheap alternative to foam. Egg crate mattress topper should cost less than $20. Two egg crate mattress toppers laid in on one another make a smooth surface.\\nPolyester padding can also be used. For a little bit extra, polyester padding has springiness and give, making a great batting material.\\n1-5. Cut the batting so that it's slightly bigger than the outline of your headboard.\\nSince you're going to staple the batting onto the back of the headboard, you want it to be big enough to reach behind the headboard.\\n2. Assembling Your Headboard\\n2-1. If you're making a tufted headboard, drill your holes first.\\nTufted headboards add marvelous texture and look, especially if the fabric you're using on the headboard is monochrome.\\nFor now, drill ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) holes into the headboard, all the way through the material. Your buttons, which will give you the tufted look, will eventually fit into these holes.\\nYou can use several different patterns when drilling your holes. Your tufts can be evenly spaced above and below one another, in a grid pattern, or they can be spaced out on a diagonal. Choose whichever pattern suits you the best.\\n2-2. Use a spray fixative to attach the padding to the back of the headboard.\\nMake sure that the fixative you use actually works with the padding you've purchased. Fixative is both very sticky and quite toxic, so make sure you only spray it onto the padding and use a mask when spraying. (Opening any windows is a great idea; working in an open garage might be an even better one.)\\n2-3. Pull the batting taut over the padding on the front of the headboard and staple it onto the back of the headboard.\\nA manual or electric staple gun will work just fine here.\\n2-4. Iron any wrinkles out of your headboard fabric.\\nHit the fabric with a little bit of steam before you drape it over your headboard. Many people forget to do this, giving the fabric less of a professional look. Once you're done, lay your fabric face down on the floor and place your batted headboard on top of it, batting-side down.\\n2-5. Line up the pattern of the fabric with the headboard and begin stapling the fabric down to the back of the headboard.\\nThis is a crucial step, so don't be afraid to take your time here in order to get it right. A couple things for you to remember as you staple the fabric to the headboard:\\nUse clamps or vices to get the pattern of the fabric lined up with the center of the headboard. Staple one or two times, and then check to see if the pattern looks good by turning the headboard over.\\nBe sure to get the fabric as taut as possible. Staple well and staple often. Since no one will be able to see the staples on the back side of the headboard, you can go a little crazy here. (Well, don't go crazy, but more is definitely better than not enough!)\\nTake care around corners and rounded parts. Be sure to pull the fabric taut, especially over rounded parts and edges.\\n2-6. Feed your buttons through the holes for a tufted look.\\nOn the back of the headboard, slide a long needle through the various holes for the buttons. On the other side of the headboard, locate the needle. Attach the buttons to sturdy, thick string, and attach the string to another needle. Using the first needle as a guide, feed the strung needle back into the hole in the headboard. Pull button taut to create tufts; staple the string to the back of the headboard several times, until it is secure.\\n2-7. Attach the headboard to your wall.\\nYou're almost done now. There are several ways that you can attach a headboard to the wall. Here are a few of your options:\\nSlide the headboard between the bed and the wall and let the two prop the headboard up. So no construction required; simple and safe if your headboard extends all the way down to the floor.\\nUse a headboard hanger. These come in two long, flat pieces of metal, each with a protruding groove. Attach one piece to the wall, another piece to the back of the headboard. The two protruding grooves fit perfectly in one another, keeping the headboard safely propped up.\\nUse flush mount hangers. Less sturdy than headboard hangers, but much less expensive, these flush mount hangers have teeth that fit into their bases on the wall. Instead of a long, flat bar, these are small pieces of metal.\\nTips\\nAnything can turn into a headboard: a picket fence, garden gate, scrap wood, shelves, chair backs, even thick twigs/branches for a country cottage look.\\nWood glue will give your headboard extra durability.\\nIf making a fabric headboard, you can use a fabric that coordinates with the rest of your color scheme.\\nWarnings\\nWear protective eye gear, gloves, etc.\\nAlways follow the manufacturers' directions for their products.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want a stylish, handmade headboard for your head to rest on when you're dozing off in bed? Store-bought headboards are nice, but are often pricey and very generic looking. If you want something a little more thrifty — something that screams you as much as your fashion — building a headboard yourself might be the best option. Once you get the idea of it, building a headboard is no difficult thing. Keep reading to learn how!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Getting Your Materials Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose the wood that you'll use for the base of the headboard.\", \"描述\": \"Most headboards are constructed out of wood, so your first step is going to be finding a large-enough piece of wood that you can fashion into a headboard. Check your bed to see that the candidate is at least as wide as your bed; headboards that are flush with the width of the bed look best. Here are some ideas about wood that you can use:\\nAny piece of plywood. There's no need to break the bank if you're just going to cover it anyway.\\nAn old or new door. If buying a new door, look for a hollow-core door, as they are cheaper and less heavy.\\nA piece of metal. Perhaps some corrugated tin roofing could be cut into an elegant pattern?\\nSome rehabbed shutters. Adds texture and, if the shutters are in the right condition, an homey vintage look.\\nSome chalkboard. Perfect for those who like to write and doodle, this gives a whole new meaning to the phrase \\\"playing in bed.\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a faux headboard if you don't have the right kind of materials.\", \"描述\": \"Who said a headboard needed to be a plank of wood, filled with batting, and covered with fabric? A headboard can be so many things, even if they aren't true headboard. Use your imagination:\\nPaint out or make a decal for your headboard. This won't actually give you a headboard, but you can do a lot with just a little.\\nUse a piece of architectural salvage to hang above your bed. A piece of antique wood salvage can brighten up your room just like a headboard.\\nCut out fabric in the shape of a headboard. Again, no real board to speak of, but the same great headboard effect.\\nTurn a mirror or big painting into a headboard. Mirrors are great for enlarging the feel of the room, while paintings show off your artistic sense. Either can make a suitable headboard.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the wood or other headboard material into the dimensions that match your bed.\", \"描述\": \"While some headboards can be larger than the width of the bed, most headboards line up exactly as wide as the bed is. Figure out how wide your bed is and mark those measurements onto the headboard material. Cut the material accordingly.\\nIf you're buying plywood or a door from a retail store, you might be able to have the store cut the wood for you if you already know the dimensions. Large retail stores like Lowe's or Home Depot provide this service for free, as might smaller mom & pop stores.\\nRemember to be cautious with your cutting. You can always cut more off, but you can never add more on. If you're not sure how big you want your headboard to be in the beginning, cut off a little first, and then more if necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut padding for the headboard.\", \"描述\": \"You ideally want your headboard to be soft and giving, not hard as a rock. In order to get this softness under your headboard, you're going to need a bit of padding. Drape your padding over the headboard and trace an outline around the edges of the headboard. Cut it so that it fits perfectly over the headboard.\\nFoam can be used but may be expensive. Since foam is petroleum-based, its price fluctuates along with the price of gas.\\nUse egg crate mattress topper for a cheap alternative to foam. Egg crate mattress topper should cost less than $20. Two egg crate mattress toppers laid in on one another make a smooth surface.\\nPolyester padding can also be used. For a little bit extra, polyester padding has springiness and give, making a great batting material.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the batting so that it's slightly bigger than the outline of your headboard.\", \"描述\": \"Since you're going to staple the batting onto the back of the headboard, you want it to be big enough to reach behind the headboard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling Your Headboard\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"If you're making a tufted headboard, drill your holes first.\", \"描述\": \"Tufted headboards add marvelous texture and look, especially if the fabric you're using on the headboard is monochrome.\\nFor now, drill ⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) holes into the headboard, all the way through the material. Your buttons, which will give you the tufted look, will eventually fit into these holes.\\nYou can use several different patterns when drilling your holes. Your tufts can be evenly spaced above and below one another, in a grid pattern, or they can be spaced out on a diagonal. Choose whichever pattern suits you the best.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use a spray fixative to attach the padding to the back of the headboard.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the fixative you use actually works with the padding you've purchased. Fixative is both very sticky and quite toxic, so make sure you only spray it onto the padding and use a mask when spraying. (Opening any windows is a great idea; working in an open garage might be an even better one.)\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pull the batting taut over the padding on the front of the headboard and staple it onto the back of the headboard.\", \"描述\": \"A manual or electric staple gun will work just fine here.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Iron any wrinkles out of your headboard fabric.\", \"描述\": \"Hit the fabric with a little bit of steam before you drape it over your headboard. Many people forget to do this, giving the fabric less of a professional look. Once you're done, lay your fabric face down on the floor and place your batted headboard on top of it, batting-side down.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Line up the pattern of the fabric with the headboard and begin stapling the fabric down to the back of the headboard.\", \"描述\": \"This is a crucial step, so don't be afraid to take your time here in order to get it right. A couple things for you to remember as you staple the fabric to the headboard:\\nUse clamps or vices to get the pattern of the fabric lined up with the center of the headboard. Staple one or two times, and then check to see if the pattern looks good by turning the headboard over.\\nBe sure to get the fabric as taut as possible. Staple well and staple often. Since no one will be able to see the staples on the back side of the headboard, you can go a little crazy here. (Well, don't go crazy, but more is definitely better than not enough!)\\nTake care around corners and rounded parts. Be sure to pull the fabric taut, especially over rounded parts and edges.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Feed your buttons through the holes for a tufted look.\", \"描述\": \"On the back of the headboard, slide a long needle through the various holes for the buttons. On the other side of the headboard, locate the needle. Attach the buttons to sturdy, thick string, and attach the string to another needle. Using the first needle as a guide, feed the strung needle back into the hole in the headboard. Pull button taut to create tufts; staple the string to the back of the headboard several times, until it is secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the headboard to your wall.\", \"描述\": \"You're almost done now. There are several ways that you can attach a headboard to the wall. Here are a few of your options:\\nSlide the headboard between the bed and the wall and let the two prop the headboard up. So no construction required; simple and safe if your headboard extends all the way down to the floor.\\nUse a headboard hanger. These come in two long, flat pieces of metal, each with a protruding groove. Attach one piece to the wall, another piece to the back of the headboard. The two protruding grooves fit perfectly in one another, keeping the headboard safely propped up.\\nUse flush mount hangers. Less sturdy than headboard hangers, but much less expensive, these flush mount hangers have teeth that fit into their bases on the wall. Instead of a long, flat bar, these are small pieces of metal.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Anything can turn into a headboard: a picket fence, garden gate, scrap wood, shelves, chair backs, even thick twigs/branches for a country cottage look.\\n\", \"Wood glue will give your headboard extra durability.\\n\", \"If making a fabric headboard, you can use a fabric that coordinates with the rest of your color scheme.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Wear protective eye gear, gloves, etc.\\n\", \"Always follow the manufacturers' directions for their products.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,375
How to Build a Healthy Relationship
1. Communicating Effectively 1-1. Speak up. Don't expect your partner to be able to read your mind or “figure it out.” If you have a need or want to express something, you need to communicate it yourself. It’s not fair to you or your partner when you don’t communicate your needs. Likewise, don’t hold in the things that bother you. If something is bothering you, say something to your partner. If you don’t know how to start a conversation, say, “There’s something on my mind and I’d like it if you listened.” You can also say, “Something is bothering me and I feel like we should talk about it.” 1-2. Listen intently. Part of a healthy relationship is knowing when to talk and when to listen. Develop your listening skills by not interrupting and letting your partner finish their thoughts and feelings. Truly listen, and don’t try to come up with a response while your partner is talking. Use active listening skills by reflecting the content and emotions of what your partner is saying. Say, “Let me make sure I understand. I hear you saying that you’re upset that I didn’t tell you what time I would be home, and you wish I would have said something earlier because you were concerned.” 1-3. Create healthy boundaries Boundaries are not meant to make you feel trapped; they are created to maintain respect and understand expectations in the relationship. If something makes you feel uncomfortable, bring it up and discuss how things need to change and how each of you will make changes. If one person wants to spend lots of time together and the other does not, it’s important to set a boundary of how much time is appropriate together and apart. For example, you may want to create sexual boundaries (being sexually exclusive) and social boundaries (having one night a week designated for friends or activities). Don’t let your partner control you and don’t set out to control your partner. Setting boundaries means respecting each other and finding compromises to make the relationship work well. 1-4. Communicate clearly. Without clear communication, a relationship can quickly bring out the worst in people. When you have a want or a need, express it to your partner clearly. Don’t beat around the bush or say something you think will please your partner when it makes you unhappy. Try using “I statements” to express your feelings, make an observation, or share your opinion. I statements allow you to express yourself clearly and directly and take responsibility for your own thoughts and feelings while avoiding blame and accusations toward others. To properly communicate, say, “ I think/feel/want…. when….. because….” For example, “I feel upset when you leave the door open because the room gets cold and drafty.” 1-5. Express emotions. Share your thoughts and feelings with your partner and stay open to the feelings that arise. Show interest in your partner’s feelings and support them during stressful situations. Connecting emotionally with your partner allows you to empathize with their experience. If you’re feeling emotionally disconnected from your partner, start asking questions about feelings (and don’t blame or make assumptions). By discovering your partner’s feelings, you may begin to feel more compassion toward them. 1-6. Check in with each other. Make time periodically to discuss the relationship. Sometimes changes occur or schedules become busy and you may miss time to connect or talk about things. You may want to bring up relationship goals and expectations, as these can sometimes change. Ignoring difficult topics or hoping they will go away is one way for a relationship to crumble. An example of checking in could be, "Hey, are you ok after our disagreement yesterday? I just wanted to make sure there weren't any leftover feelings or things we didn't resolve." Ask your partner if you are on the same page in terms of relationship expectations. You may discuss moving in together, sexual satisfaction, marriage, children, or plans to move. Be clear on what you want and how your partner fits in with that. 2. Treating Each Other Well 2-1. Create a foundation of respect. Relationships can be fun and exciting early on, yet it important to make sure that you and your partner are rooted in respect. Act in ways that demand respect from your partner. Strive to treat each other with respect at all times, even when you are mad at each other. Your partner’s wishes, thoughts, and feelings have value. Communicate to your partner that you consider the way they feel. Mutual respect is an important part of making a healthy relationship work. Talk to your partner about creating respect in your relationship. Decide “do’s” and “don’ts,” such as name calling or sexual touch. You may wish to implement "fair fighting" rules. They are as follows: No degrading language No blaming No yelling No use of force No talk of divorce/breaking up Don't try to tell your partner what they are thinking/experiencing/feeling Stay in the present Take turns speaking Use time outs when necessary Make them happy 2-2. Appreciate each other. A healthy relationship should be one in which you and your partner feel appreciated. Often, relationships are built from many small things added one on top of the other. Find the things your partner does for you and say “thank you.” Instead of focusing on mistakes your partner makes, focus on the ways your partner adds to your life. When you notice something, speak out and show your appreciation. Ask your partner how they like to feel appreciated. Write a note or a card, or make an effort to say “thank you” often. Let your partner know how you like to be appreciated. Say, “It means a lot to me when you notice the things I do for you.” 2-3. Spend quality time together. It’s easy to transition from face-to-face time together to digital communication. Yet, sometimes meanings can get lost in translation or non-verbal communication becomes non-existent. Spending quality time together can help strengthen your relationship and increase the bond you and your partner feel together. Find activities that you can do together regularly. It can be as simple as enjoying a cup of coffee together each morning or reading together at night. Trying something new together can be a fun and exciting way to spend time together. You don’t have to do anything crazy — even going out to dinner at a new restaurant or trying a new cuisine can be a fun experience. 2-4. Give each other space. No one person can fulfill everything and every role for another person. Let your partner have time with friends and family and engage in hobbies. It’s important for each person to have their own friends and activities that are enjoyed on their own. While you may want to spend every moment together during the beginning of the relationship, respect each other enough to spend time apart and know that time spent apart doesn’t mean anything negative for the relationship. Support your partner in maintaining friendships. Avoid giving up your friends or pressuring your partner to give up friends. It’s important to have friends and the emotional support they provide. Likewise, don’t allow your partner to dictate whether or not you can see your family. 2-5. Expect changes. Know that your relationship will likely change. Allow growth for yourself, your partner, and for the relationship itself. Recognize that changes in your relationship are opportunities for new growth. Change is inevitable, so welcome changes and accept that the relationship will adapt. When changes happen, take a deep breath and deal with them one by one. 3. Improving an Unhealthy Relationship 3-1. See a therapist. If you’re caught in unhealthy patterns and want to improve them, ask your partner to see a therapist together. A therapist can help you break unhealthy patterns you may feel trapped in, such as yelling, blaming, isolating, making assumptions, and not communicating effectively. It can also help with emotional avoidance, modifying behavior, and changing the views you have of your relationship. Seeing a therapist doesn’t mean your relationship is doomed — it means you’re willing to work together to improve it. For more information, check out How to Attend Couples Counseling. 3-2. Let go of codependency. Dysfunctional behavior in a codependent relationship can look like one person supporting or enabling the other person’s irresponsibility, immaturity, addiction, or poor health. If you are the enabler, you may feel guilty if you don’t help, even if you know it hurts your partner in the long run. Codependency is often rooted in childhood and may involve repressed feelings (not speaking up when you have a need, keeping quiet to avoid a fight) and an inability to say “no.” You and your partner may isolate from other people and not have friends outside of your relationship. Educate yourself about codependency and spend some time identifying your (or your partner’s) self-defeating behaviors. You may want to work with an individual or couple’s therapist. Check out How to Tell if You Are Codependent to learn more. 3-3. Respect your partner’s privacy. Being in a relationship doesn’t mean you have to spend every moment together or share everything. Respect your partner’s need for privacy and space. If jealousy comes up, remind yourself that jealousy is something you feel that may not be directly related to your partner’s actions. Don’t demand your partner’s passwords to social media accounts or email. Respect your partner’s privacy and be willing to trust your partner. It’s not healthy for you or your partner to constantly monitor each other’s behaviors. This can be rooted in jealousy or control, which are not healthy components to bring into a relationship. 3-4. Note warning signs of abuse. Relationships should be built on respect and equality, not power and control. While you may not think much of some behaviors at first, disrespectful behaviors set a tone in a relationship. If your partner is possessive, insulting, yelling, humiliating, or disrespectful in any way, take note. There is no excuse for abuse. Abuse is a choice that an individual makes and you do not have to be the victim. For more information, check out How to Recognize a Potentially Abusive Relationship.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Communicating Effectively\\n1-1. Speak up.\\nDon't expect your partner to be able to read your mind or “figure it out.” If you have a need or want to express something, you need to communicate it yourself. It’s not fair to you or your partner when you don’t communicate your needs. Likewise, don’t hold in the things that bother you. If something is bothering you, say something to your partner.\\nIf you don’t know how to start a conversation, say, “There’s something on my mind and I’d like it if you listened.” You can also say, “Something is bothering me and I feel like we should talk about it.”\\n1-2. Listen intently.\\nPart of a healthy relationship is knowing when to talk and when to listen. Develop your listening skills by not interrupting and letting your partner finish their thoughts and feelings. Truly listen, and don’t try to come up with a response while your partner is talking.\\nUse active listening skills by reflecting the content and emotions of what your partner is saying. Say, “Let me make sure I understand. I hear you saying that you’re upset that I didn’t tell you what time I would be home, and you wish I would have said something earlier because you were concerned.”\\n1-3. Create healthy boundaries\\nBoundaries are not meant to make you feel trapped; they are created to maintain respect and understand expectations in the relationship. If something makes you feel uncomfortable, bring it up and discuss how things need to change and how each of you will make changes. If one person wants to spend lots of time together and the other does not, it’s important to set a boundary of how much time is appropriate together and apart.\\nFor example, you may want to create sexual boundaries (being sexually exclusive) and social boundaries (having one night a week designated for friends or activities).\\nDon’t let your partner control you and don’t set out to control your partner. Setting boundaries means respecting each other and finding compromises to make the relationship work well.\\n1-4. Communicate clearly.\\nWithout clear communication, a relationship can quickly bring out the worst in people. When you have a want or a need, express it to your partner clearly. Don’t beat around the bush or say something you think will please your partner when it makes you unhappy. Try using “I statements” to express your feelings, make an observation, or share your opinion. I statements allow you to express yourself clearly and directly and take responsibility for your own thoughts and feelings while avoiding blame and accusations toward others.\\nTo properly communicate, say, “ I think/feel/want…. when….. because….” For example, “I feel upset when you leave the door open because the room gets cold and drafty.”\\n1-5. Express emotions.\\nShare your thoughts and feelings with your partner and stay open to the feelings that arise. Show interest in your partner’s feelings and support them during stressful situations. Connecting emotionally with your partner allows you to empathize with their experience.\\nIf you’re feeling emotionally disconnected from your partner, start asking questions about feelings (and don’t blame or make assumptions). By discovering your partner’s feelings, you may begin to feel more compassion toward them.\\n1-6. Check in with each other.\\nMake time periodically to discuss the relationship. Sometimes changes occur or schedules become busy and you may miss time to connect or talk about things. You may want to bring up relationship goals and expectations, as these can sometimes change. Ignoring difficult topics or hoping they will go away is one way for a relationship to crumble.\\nAn example of checking in could be, \\\"Hey, are you ok after our disagreement yesterday? I just wanted to make sure there weren't any leftover feelings or things we didn't resolve.\\\"\\nAsk your partner if you are on the same page in terms of relationship expectations. You may discuss moving in together, sexual satisfaction, marriage, children, or plans to move. Be clear on what you want and how your partner fits in with that.\\n2. Treating Each Other Well\\n2-1. Create a foundation of respect.\\nRelationships can be fun and exciting early on, yet it important to make sure that you and your partner are rooted in respect. Act in ways that demand respect from your partner. Strive to treat each other with respect at all times, even when you are mad at each other.\\nYour partner’s wishes, thoughts, and feelings have value. Communicate to your partner that you consider the way they feel. Mutual respect is an important part of making a healthy relationship work.\\nTalk to your partner about creating respect in your relationship. Decide “do’s” and “don’ts,” such as name calling or sexual touch.\\nYou may wish to implement \\\"fair fighting\\\" rules. They are as follows:\\nNo degrading language\\nNo blaming\\nNo yelling\\nNo use of force\\nNo talk of divorce/breaking up\\nDon't try to tell your partner what they are thinking/experiencing/feeling\\nStay in the present\\nTake turns speaking\\nUse time outs when necessary\\nMake them happy\\n2-2. Appreciate each other.\\nA healthy relationship should be one in which you and your partner feel appreciated. Often, relationships are built from many small things added one on top of the other. Find the things your partner does for you and say “thank you.” Instead of focusing on mistakes your partner makes, focus on the ways your partner adds to your life. When you notice something, speak out and show your appreciation.\\nAsk your partner how they like to feel appreciated. Write a note or a card, or make an effort to say “thank you” often.\\nLet your partner know how you like to be appreciated. Say, “It means a lot to me when you notice the things I do for you.”\\n2-3. Spend quality time together.\\nIt’s easy to transition from face-to-face time together to digital communication. Yet, sometimes meanings can get lost in translation or non-verbal communication becomes non-existent. Spending quality time together can help strengthen your relationship and increase the bond you and your partner feel together.\\nFind activities that you can do together regularly. It can be as simple as enjoying a cup of coffee together each morning or reading together at night.\\nTrying something new together can be a fun and exciting way to spend time together. You don’t have to do anything crazy — even going out to dinner at a new restaurant or trying a new cuisine can be a fun experience.\\n2-4. Give each other space.\\nNo one person can fulfill everything and every role for another person. Let your partner have time with friends and family and engage in hobbies. It’s important for each person to have their own friends and activities that are enjoyed on their own. While you may want to spend every moment together during the beginning of the relationship, respect each other enough to spend time apart and know that time spent apart doesn’t mean anything negative for the relationship. Support your partner in maintaining friendships.\\nAvoid giving up your friends or pressuring your partner to give up friends. It’s important to have friends and the emotional support they provide. Likewise, don’t allow your partner to dictate whether or not you can see your family.\\n2-5. Expect changes.\\nKnow that your relationship will likely change. Allow growth for yourself, your partner, and for the relationship itself. Recognize that changes in your relationship are opportunities for new growth. Change is inevitable, so welcome changes and accept that the relationship will adapt.\\nWhen changes happen, take a deep breath and deal with them one by one.\\n3. Improving an Unhealthy Relationship\\n3-1. See a therapist.\\nIf you’re caught in unhealthy patterns and want to improve them, ask your partner to see a therapist together. A therapist can help you break unhealthy patterns you may feel trapped in, such as yelling, blaming, isolating, making assumptions, and not communicating effectively. It can also help with emotional avoidance, modifying behavior, and changing the views you have of your relationship. Seeing a therapist doesn’t mean your relationship is doomed — it means you’re willing to work together to improve it.\\nFor more information, check out How to Attend Couples Counseling.\\n3-2. Let go of codependency.\\nDysfunctional behavior in a codependent relationship can look like one person supporting or enabling the other person’s irresponsibility, immaturity, addiction, or poor health. If you are the enabler, you may feel guilty if you don’t help, even if you know it hurts your partner in the long run. Codependency is often rooted in childhood and may involve repressed feelings (not speaking up when you have a need, keeping quiet to avoid a fight) and an inability to say “no.”\\nYou and your partner may isolate from other people and not have friends outside of your relationship.\\nEducate yourself about codependency and spend some time identifying your (or your partner’s) self-defeating behaviors. You may want to work with an individual or couple’s therapist.\\nCheck out How to Tell if You Are Codependent to learn more.\\n3-3. Respect your partner’s privacy.\\nBeing in a relationship doesn’t mean you have to spend every moment together or share everything. Respect your partner’s need for privacy and space. If jealousy comes up, remind yourself that jealousy is something you feel that may not be directly related to your partner’s actions.\\nDon’t demand your partner’s passwords to social media accounts or email. Respect your partner’s privacy and be willing to trust your partner.\\nIt’s not healthy for you or your partner to constantly monitor each other’s behaviors. This can be rooted in jealousy or control, which are not healthy components to bring into a relationship.\\n3-4. Note warning signs of abuse.\\nRelationships should be built on respect and equality, not power and control. While you may not think much of some behaviors at first, disrespectful behaviors set a tone in a relationship. If your partner is possessive, insulting, yelling, humiliating, or disrespectful in any way, take note. There is no excuse for abuse. Abuse is a choice that an individual makes and you do not have to be the victim.\\nFor more information, check out How to Recognize a Potentially Abusive Relationship.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Healthy relationships allow you to express your individuality (both with and without your partner), bring out the best in both of you, and encourage growth. Especially if you are in a new relationship, it’s best to set a foundation for a positive and healthy relationship from the start. By setting your focus on respect and helpful communication, you can enjoy a healthy and satisfying relationship.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Communicating Effectively\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Speak up.\", \"描述\": \"Don't expect your partner to be able to read your mind or “figure it out.” If you have a need or want to express something, you need to communicate it yourself. It’s not fair to you or your partner when you don’t communicate your needs. Likewise, don’t hold in the things that bother you. If something is bothering you, say something to your partner.\\nIf you don’t know how to start a conversation, say, “There’s something on my mind and I’d like it if you listened.” You can also say, “Something is bothering me and I feel like we should talk about it.”\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Listen intently.\", \"描述\": \"Part of a healthy relationship is knowing when to talk and when to listen. Develop your listening skills by not interrupting and letting your partner finish their thoughts and feelings. Truly listen, and don’t try to come up with a response while your partner is talking.\\nUse active listening skills by reflecting the content and emotions of what your partner is saying. Say, “Let me make sure I understand. I hear you saying that you’re upset that I didn’t tell you what time I would be home, and you wish I would have said something earlier because you were concerned.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create healthy boundaries\", \"描述\": \"Boundaries are not meant to make you feel trapped; they are created to maintain respect and understand expectations in the relationship. If something makes you feel uncomfortable, bring it up and discuss how things need to change and how each of you will make changes. If one person wants to spend lots of time together and the other does not, it’s important to set a boundary of how much time is appropriate together and apart.\\nFor example, you may want to create sexual boundaries (being sexually exclusive) and social boundaries (having one night a week designated for friends or activities).\\nDon’t let your partner control you and don’t set out to control your partner. Setting boundaries means respecting each other and finding compromises to make the relationship work well.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Communicate clearly.\", \"描述\": \"Without clear communication, a relationship can quickly bring out the worst in people. When you have a want or a need, express it to your partner clearly. Don’t beat around the bush or say something you think will please your partner when it makes you unhappy. Try using “I statements” to express your feelings, make an observation, or share your opinion. I statements allow you to express yourself clearly and directly and take responsibility for your own thoughts and feelings while avoiding blame and accusations toward others.\\nTo properly communicate, say, “ I think/feel/want…. when….. because….” For example, “I feel upset when you leave the door open because the room gets cold and drafty.”\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Express emotions.\", \"描述\": \"Share your thoughts and feelings with your partner and stay open to the feelings that arise. Show interest in your partner’s feelings and support them during stressful situations. Connecting emotionally with your partner allows you to empathize with their experience.\\nIf you’re feeling emotionally disconnected from your partner, start asking questions about feelings (and don’t blame or make assumptions). By discovering your partner’s feelings, you may begin to feel more compassion toward them.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Check in with each other.\", \"描述\": \"Make time periodically to discuss the relationship. Sometimes changes occur or schedules become busy and you may miss time to connect or talk about things. You may want to bring up relationship goals and expectations, as these can sometimes change. Ignoring difficult topics or hoping they will go away is one way for a relationship to crumble.\\nAn example of checking in could be, \\\"Hey, are you ok after our disagreement yesterday? I just wanted to make sure there weren't any leftover feelings or things we didn't resolve.\\\"\\nAsk your partner if you are on the same page in terms of relationship expectations. You may discuss moving in together, sexual satisfaction, marriage, children, or plans to move. Be clear on what you want and how your partner fits in with that.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Treating Each Other Well\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a foundation of respect.\", \"描述\": \"Relationships can be fun and exciting early on, yet it important to make sure that you and your partner are rooted in respect. Act in ways that demand respect from your partner. Strive to treat each other with respect at all times, even when you are mad at each other.\\nYour partner’s wishes, thoughts, and feelings have value. Communicate to your partner that you consider the way they feel. Mutual respect is an important part of making a healthy relationship work.\\nTalk to your partner about creating respect in your relationship. Decide “do’s” and “don’ts,” such as name calling or sexual touch.\\nYou may wish to implement \\\"fair fighting\\\" rules. They are as follows:\\nNo degrading language\\nNo blaming\\nNo yelling\\nNo use of force\\nNo talk of divorce/breaking up\\nDon't try to tell your partner what they are thinking/experiencing/feeling\\nStay in the present\\nTake turns speaking\\nUse time outs when necessary\\nMake them happy\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Appreciate each other.\", \"描述\": \"A healthy relationship should be one in which you and your partner feel appreciated. Often, relationships are built from many small things added one on top of the other. Find the things your partner does for you and say “thank you.” Instead of focusing on mistakes your partner makes, focus on the ways your partner adds to your life. When you notice something, speak out and show your appreciation.\\nAsk your partner how they like to feel appreciated. Write a note or a card, or make an effort to say “thank you” often.\\nLet your partner know how you like to be appreciated. Say, “It means a lot to me when you notice the things I do for you.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spend quality time together.\", \"描述\": \"It’s easy to transition from face-to-face time together to digital communication. Yet, sometimes meanings can get lost in translation or non-verbal communication becomes non-existent. Spending quality time together can help strengthen your relationship and increase the bond you and your partner feel together.\\nFind activities that you can do together regularly. It can be as simple as enjoying a cup of coffee together each morning or reading together at night.\\nTrying something new together can be a fun and exciting way to spend time together. You don’t have to do anything crazy — even going out to dinner at a new restaurant or trying a new cuisine can be a fun experience.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give each other space.\", \"描述\": \"No one person can fulfill everything and every role for another person. Let your partner have time with friends and family and engage in hobbies. It’s important for each person to have their own friends and activities that are enjoyed on their own. While you may want to spend every moment together during the beginning of the relationship, respect each other enough to spend time apart and know that time spent apart doesn’t mean anything negative for the relationship. Support your partner in maintaining friendships.\\nAvoid giving up your friends or pressuring your partner to give up friends. It’s important to have friends and the emotional support they provide. Likewise, don’t allow your partner to dictate whether or not you can see your family.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Expect changes.\", \"描述\": \"Know that your relationship will likely change. Allow growth for yourself, your partner, and for the relationship itself. Recognize that changes in your relationship are opportunities for new growth. Change is inevitable, so welcome changes and accept that the relationship will adapt.\\nWhen changes happen, take a deep breath and deal with them one by one.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Improving an Unhealthy Relationship\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"See a therapist.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re caught in unhealthy patterns and want to improve them, ask your partner to see a therapist together. A therapist can help you break unhealthy patterns you may feel trapped in, such as yelling, blaming, isolating, making assumptions, and not communicating effectively. It can also help with emotional avoidance, modifying behavior, and changing the views you have of your relationship. Seeing a therapist doesn’t mean your relationship is doomed — it means you’re willing to work together to improve it.\\nFor more information, check out How to Attend Couples Counseling.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Let go of codependency.\", \"描述\": \"Dysfunctional behavior in a codependent relationship can look like one person supporting or enabling the other person’s irresponsibility, immaturity, addiction, or poor health. If you are the enabler, you may feel guilty if you don’t help, even if you know it hurts your partner in the long run. Codependency is often rooted in childhood and may involve repressed feelings (not speaking up when you have a need, keeping quiet to avoid a fight) and an inability to say “no.”\\nYou and your partner may isolate from other people and not have friends outside of your relationship.\\nEducate yourself about codependency and spend some time identifying your (or your partner’s) self-defeating behaviors. You may want to work with an individual or couple’s therapist.\\nCheck out How to Tell if You Are Codependent to learn more.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Respect your partner’s privacy.\", \"描述\": \"Being in a relationship doesn’t mean you have to spend every moment together or share everything. Respect your partner’s need for privacy and space. If jealousy comes up, remind yourself that jealousy is something you feel that may not be directly related to your partner’s actions.\\nDon’t demand your partner’s passwords to social media accounts or email. Respect your partner’s privacy and be willing to trust your partner.\\nIt’s not healthy for you or your partner to constantly monitor each other’s behaviors. This can be rooted in jealousy or control, which are not healthy components to bring into a relationship.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Note warning signs of abuse.\", \"描述\": \"Relationships should be built on respect and equality, not power and control. While you may not think much of some behaviors at first, disrespectful behaviors set a tone in a relationship. If your partner is possessive, insulting, yelling, humiliating, or disrespectful in any way, take note. There is no excuse for abuse. Abuse is a choice that an individual makes and you do not have to be the victim.\\nFor more information, check out How to Recognize a Potentially Abusive Relationship.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,376
How to Build a Healthy Relationship with a Stepchild
1. Showing Interest in the Child 1-1. Initiate a connection, but let the child set the pace. Allow your stepchild to define the relationship they’d like to have with you. Express your interest, but leave the ball in their court as to how they want to move forward. Don't try to rush in and force a relationship. Simply say, “I have no interest in replacing your mom/dad, but I do want us to have a close relationship. You can think of me as an aunt/uncle or an adult friend. How does that sound?” If they show no interest in getting close to you, back off for a while. They may need time to accept the relationship. 1-2. Strike up conversations around their passions. Befriend your stepchild just like you would anyone else— by talking about what they're interested in. If you know your stepdaughter is into ballet, ask her opinion on a dance routine. If your stepson likes anime, tell him to catch you up on his favorite show. Once you get them talking be sure to make occasional eye contact and engage in the conversation to show you're listening. Ask open-ended questions that keep the conversation going, like “So, what got you interested in that?” 1-3. Carve out one-on-one time for something fun. Take an interest in your stepchild’s hobbies, share yours, or develop a new one together. This helps you spend quality time together without awkwardly trying to come up with exciting topics. For instance, if they like baseball, throw a ball around in the backyard. If you like woodworking, give them a crash course and teach them to make something. 1-4. Engage in a way that's comfortable to them. Coming off as a friend to your stepchild can be challenging, especially if the kid is intimidated or standoffish. Help them relax with you by getting on the same level with them. Interacting with them on a comfortable level could help break down any walls they may have built up. If they are on the floor playing with Legos, physically get down there and join them! Don't insist on face-to-face conversations if they're a bit shy. Try interacting with them while playing a video game or watching a movie -- whatever they prefer. 2. Building Trust 2-1. Allow the child to call you by whatever name they're comfortable with. What a child calls you will depend on their unique preferences, but you certainly shouldn't demand they call you “Mom" or "Dad.” Have a talk and decide on a name that works for you both. You might say, “So, what would you like to call me, Peter? Let's think of a name we both like.” 2-2. Be open with your stepchild. To forge a bond with your stepchild, you'll need to be forthcoming. If you play your cards too close to your chest, they may distrust you. Distrust can hinder your chances of bonding, so be straightforward and honest. You might say, “Let's start by getting to know one another. Is there anything you'd like to know about me?” Even if they don't have any questions upfront, say something like, “My door is always open if you have questions or want to talk. Okay?” 2-3. Gauge the child's reaction when it comes to giving affection. As you slowly start building a relationship with your stepchild, it’s natural to want to show affection. Before you do this, look for cues that your stepchild is ready and comfortable with your attempts. Do they back away if you put a hand on their shoulder? If not, then they're probably cool with it. You might also ask them how they feel about affection. Something like, “Is it okay if I give you a hug?” should help you figure out their stance on the matter. 2-4. Avoid being the one to discipline the child. Disciplining should be left to the biological parents, at least at first. Early on, your focus should simply be on building a positive relationship with your stepchild. This doesn't mean you won't have a voice— just let your spouse be the one who verbalizes any punishments. If they want to involve you in the decision-making, have that talk away from the kids. 2-5. Try to be civil with the child's other parent. One of the most important things to remember here is that you are all part of the same team, and you all have the children's best interests at heart. Regardless of any differences, try to maintain a mature and cordial relationship with the other parent. Don't speak negatively about the child's parent in front of the child. If they have a story to share about their other parent, listen and respond positively. 2-6. Be patient and extra sensitive. Whatever circumstances brought about the end of your stepchild's parent's relationship, they are likely upsetting for them. Give them time to process all the new changes an make room for you in their life. Your relationship with your stepchild may never be “ideal.” Still, by allowing things to naturally develop without forcing them, you'll have a much better chance of building a lasting bond. 3. Living Together 3-1. Give stepchildren the same chores and expectations as everyone else. Set clear and firm guidelines about what you expect in your household and have these rules apply to everyone, whether they live there full-time or only on occasion. By giving stepchildren the same rules and expectations, they actually become a part of the family instead of feeling like outsiders whenever they visit. If they are living there full-time, both you and your  spouse should sit down with them and discuss the rules and expectations for your household. 3-2. Allow space for the child and biological parent to bond. Don't crowd your stepchild or expect to always spend time with them. Give them a chance to be with your spouse without you being present. This shows that you respect the pre-existing relationship and allows them to nurture the bond they share with their parent. 3-3. Make communication a part of daily life. Talking about things is important in all families, especially blended families. Create a habit of discussing everything during typical routines and rituals so that everyone is on the same page. For example, everyone might share some part of their day during dinnertime. Communication during chores or hobbies helps you get to know each other without the pressure of a face-to-face talk. If the child is resistant to communicating with you, try using personal stories to tell them more about you. They may come around once they know you better. 3-4. Create space for everyone. Blending households is never an easy thing, but try your best to consider the kids in any household changes you make. Ensure that all children have a space of their own, even if they have to share rooms. You might help them feel more included by asking what paint color they'd like in a bedroom or taking them shopping for decor. Also, give them some freedom to express themselves, such as hanging a sign reading “Daisy's Room" to claim their space. Tips Remember that your stepchild is innocent, regardless of the circumstances. Don't take it out in them if you have a problem with their other parent or your spouse. Be realistic. Your stepchildren may never become extremely close to you or act like your children. This does not mean that you have failed or that you are a bad step-parent. Simply strive for a positive, civil relationship. Use humor to diffuse tension when it arises. This situation is challenging, but it doesn't have to feel like a burden. Stay light-hearted and open-minded.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:40", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Showing Interest in the Child\\n1-1. Initiate a connection, but let the child set the pace.\\nAllow your stepchild to define the relationship they’d like to have with you. Express your interest, but leave the ball in their court as to how they want to move forward.\\nDon't try to rush in and force a relationship. Simply say, “I have no interest in replacing your mom/dad, but I do want us to have a close relationship. You can think of me as an aunt/uncle or an adult friend. How does that sound?”\\nIf they show no interest in getting close to you, back off for a while. They may need time to accept the relationship.\\n1-2. Strike up conversations around their passions.\\nBefriend your stepchild just like you would anyone else— by talking about what they're interested in. If you know your stepdaughter is into ballet, ask her opinion on a dance routine. If your stepson likes anime, tell him to catch you up on his favorite show.\\nOnce you get them talking be sure to make occasional eye contact and engage in the conversation to show you're listening.\\nAsk open-ended questions that keep the conversation going, like “So, what got you interested in that?”\\n1-3. Carve out one-on-one time for something fun.\\nTake an interest in your stepchild’s hobbies, share yours, or develop a new one together. This helps you spend quality time together without awkwardly trying to come up with exciting topics.\\nFor instance, if they like baseball, throw a ball around in the backyard. If you like woodworking, give them a crash course and teach them to make something.\\n1-4. Engage in a way that's comfortable to them.\\nComing off as a friend to your stepchild can be challenging, especially if the kid is intimidated or standoffish. Help them relax with you by getting on the same level with them. Interacting with them on a comfortable level could help break down any walls they may have built up.\\nIf they are on the floor playing with Legos, physically get down there and join them!\\nDon't insist on face-to-face conversations if they're a bit shy. Try interacting with them while playing a video game or watching a movie -- whatever they prefer.\\n2. Building Trust\\n2-1. Allow the child to call you by whatever name they're comfortable with.\\nWhat a child calls you will depend on their unique preferences, but you certainly shouldn't demand they call you “Mom\\\" or \\\"Dad.” Have a talk and decide on a name that works for you both.\\nYou might say, “So, what would you like to call me, Peter? Let's think of a name we both like.”\\n2-2. Be open with your stepchild.\\nTo forge a bond with your stepchild, you'll need to be forthcoming. If you play your cards too close to your chest, they may distrust you. Distrust can hinder your chances of bonding, so be straightforward and honest.\\nYou might say, “Let's start by getting to know one another. Is there anything you'd like to know about me?”\\nEven if they don't have any questions upfront, say something like, “My door is always open if you have questions or want to talk. Okay?”\\n2-3. Gauge the child's reaction when it comes to giving affection.\\nAs you slowly start building a relationship with your stepchild, it’s natural to want to show affection. Before you do this, look for cues that your stepchild is ready and comfortable with your attempts.\\nDo they back away if you put a hand on their shoulder? If not, then they're probably cool with it.\\nYou might also ask them how they feel about affection. Something like, “Is it okay if I give you a hug?” should help you figure out their stance on the matter.\\n2-4. Avoid being the one to discipline the child.\\nDisciplining should be left to the biological parents, at least at first. Early on, your focus should simply be on building a positive relationship with your stepchild.\\nThis doesn't mean you won't have a voice— just let your spouse be the one who verbalizes any punishments.\\nIf they want to involve you in the decision-making, have that talk away from the kids.\\n2-5. Try to be civil with the child's other parent.\\nOne of the most important things to remember here is that you are all part of the same team, and you all have the children's best interests at heart. Regardless of any differences, try to maintain a mature and cordial relationship with the other parent.\\nDon't speak negatively about the child's parent in front of the child.\\nIf they have a story to share about their other parent, listen and respond positively.\\n2-6. Be patient and extra sensitive.\\nWhatever circumstances brought about the end of your stepchild's parent's relationship, they are likely upsetting for them. Give them time to process all the new changes an make room for you in their life.\\nYour relationship with your stepchild may never be “ideal.” Still, by allowing things to naturally develop without forcing them, you'll have a much better chance of building a lasting bond.\\n3. Living Together\\n3-1. Give stepchildren the same chores and expectations as everyone else.\\nSet clear and firm guidelines about what you expect in your household and have these rules apply to everyone, whether they live there full-time or only on occasion.\\nBy giving stepchildren the same rules and expectations, they actually become a part of the family instead of feeling like outsiders whenever they visit.\\nIf they are living there full-time, both you and your  spouse should sit down with them and discuss the rules and expectations for your household.\\n3-2. Allow space for the child and biological parent to bond.\\nDon't crowd your stepchild or expect to always spend time with them. Give them a chance to be with your spouse without you being present.\\nThis shows that you respect the pre-existing relationship and allows them to nurture the bond they share with their parent.\\n3-3. Make communication a part of daily life.\\nTalking about things is important in all families, especially blended families. Create a habit of discussing everything during typical routines and rituals so that everyone is on the same page.\\nFor example, everyone might share some part of their day during dinnertime. Communication during chores or hobbies helps you get to know each other without the pressure of a face-to-face talk.\\nIf the child is resistant to communicating with you, try using personal stories to tell them more about you. They may come around once they know you better.\\n3-4. Create space for everyone.\\nBlending households is never an easy thing, but try your best to consider the kids in any household changes you make. Ensure that all children have a space of their own, even if they have to share rooms.\\nYou might help them feel more included by asking what paint color they'd like in a bedroom or taking them shopping for decor.\\nAlso, give them some freedom to express themselves, such as hanging a sign reading “Daisy's Room\\\" to claim their space.\\nTips\\nRemember that your stepchild is innocent, regardless of the circumstances. Don't take it out in them if you have a problem with their other parent or your spouse.\\nBe realistic. Your stepchildren may never become extremely close to you or act like your children. This does not mean that you have failed or that you are a bad step-parent. Simply strive for a positive, civil relationship.\\nUse humor to diffuse tension when it arises. This situation is challenging, but it doesn't have to feel like a burden. Stay light-hearted and open-minded.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Marrying someone who already has children can be a challenge, but it can also be an immense blessing. As a step-parent, you get to serve as friend and mentor to the child--you don't have to try to step in as a third parent. Focus on building good rapport with your stepchild and fostering mutual respect and trust. Also, keep in mind that this can be a major adjustment for yourself and the child. They may never fully accept you the way you'd like, but just do your best to develop a civil relationship with them.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Showing Interest in the Child\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Initiate a connection, but let the child set the pace.\", \"描述\": \"Allow your stepchild to define the relationship they’d like to have with you. Express your interest, but leave the ball in their court as to how they want to move forward.\\nDon't try to rush in and force a relationship. Simply say, “I have no interest in replacing your mom/dad, but I do want us to have a close relationship. You can think of me as an aunt/uncle or an adult friend. How does that sound?”\\nIf they show no interest in getting close to you, back off for a while. They may need time to accept the relationship.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Strike up conversations around their passions.\", \"描述\": \"Befriend your stepchild just like you would anyone else— by talking about what they're interested in. If you know your stepdaughter is into ballet, ask her opinion on a dance routine. If your stepson likes anime, tell him to catch you up on his favorite show.\\nOnce you get them talking be sure to make occasional eye contact and engage in the conversation to show you're listening.\\nAsk open-ended questions that keep the conversation going, like “So, what got you interested in that?”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Carve out one-on-one time for something fun.\", \"描述\": \"Take an interest in your stepchild’s hobbies, share yours, or develop a new one together. This helps you spend quality time together without awkwardly trying to come up with exciting topics.\\nFor instance, if they like baseball, throw a ball around in the backyard. If you like woodworking, give them a crash course and teach them to make something.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Engage in a way that's comfortable to them.\", \"描述\": \"Coming off as a friend to your stepchild can be challenging, especially if the kid is intimidated or standoffish. Help them relax with you by getting on the same level with them. Interacting with them on a comfortable level could help break down any walls they may have built up.\\nIf they are on the floor playing with Legos, physically get down there and join them!\\nDon't insist on face-to-face conversations if they're a bit shy. Try interacting with them while playing a video game or watching a movie -- whatever they prefer.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building Trust\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Allow the child to call you by whatever name they're comfortable with.\", \"描述\": \"What a child calls you will depend on their unique preferences, but you certainly shouldn't demand they call you “Mom\\\" or \\\"Dad.” Have a talk and decide on a name that works for you both.\\nYou might say, “So, what would you like to call me, Peter? Let's think of a name we both like.”\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be open with your stepchild.\", \"描述\": \"To forge a bond with your stepchild, you'll need to be forthcoming. If you play your cards too close to your chest, they may distrust you. Distrust can hinder your chances of bonding, so be straightforward and honest.\\nYou might say, “Let's start by getting to know one another. Is there anything you'd like to know about me?”\\nEven if they don't have any questions upfront, say something like, “My door is always open if you have questions or want to talk. Okay?”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Gauge the child's reaction when it comes to giving affection.\", \"描述\": \"As you slowly start building a relationship with your stepchild, it’s natural to want to show affection. Before you do this, look for cues that your stepchild is ready and comfortable with your attempts.\\nDo they back away if you put a hand on their shoulder? If not, then they're probably cool with it.\\nYou might also ask them how they feel about affection. Something like, “Is it okay if I give you a hug?” should help you figure out their stance on the matter.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Avoid being the one to discipline the child.\", \"描述\": \"Disciplining should be left to the biological parents, at least at first. Early on, your focus should simply be on building a positive relationship with your stepchild.\\nThis doesn't mean you won't have a voice— just let your spouse be the one who verbalizes any punishments.\\nIf they want to involve you in the decision-making, have that talk away from the kids.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Try to be civil with the child's other parent.\", \"描述\": \"One of the most important things to remember here is that you are all part of the same team, and you all have the children's best interests at heart. Regardless of any differences, try to maintain a mature and cordial relationship with the other parent.\\nDon't speak negatively about the child's parent in front of the child.\\nIf they have a story to share about their other parent, listen and respond positively.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Be patient and extra sensitive.\", \"描述\": \"Whatever circumstances brought about the end of your stepchild's parent's relationship, they are likely upsetting for them. Give them time to process all the new changes an make room for you in their life.\\nYour relationship with your stepchild may never be “ideal.” Still, by allowing things to naturally develop without forcing them, you'll have a much better chance of building a lasting bond.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Living Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Give stepchildren the same chores and expectations as everyone else.\", \"描述\": \"Set clear and firm guidelines about what you expect in your household and have these rules apply to everyone, whether they live there full-time or only on occasion.\\nBy giving stepchildren the same rules and expectations, they actually become a part of the family instead of feeling like outsiders whenever they visit.\\nIf they are living there full-time, both you and your  spouse should sit down with them and discuss the rules and expectations for your household.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Allow space for the child and biological parent to bond.\", \"描述\": \"Don't crowd your stepchild or expect to always spend time with them. Give them a chance to be with your spouse without you being present.\\nThis shows that you respect the pre-existing relationship and allows them to nurture the bond they share with their parent.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make communication a part of daily life.\", \"描述\": \"Talking about things is important in all families, especially blended families. Create a habit of discussing everything during typical routines and rituals so that everyone is on the same page.\\nFor example, everyone might share some part of their day during dinnertime. Communication during chores or hobbies helps you get to know each other without the pressure of a face-to-face talk.\\nIf the child is resistant to communicating with you, try using personal stories to tell them more about you. They may come around once they know you better.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create space for everyone.\", \"描述\": \"Blending households is never an easy thing, but try your best to consider the kids in any household changes you make. Ensure that all children have a space of their own, even if they have to share rooms.\\nYou might help them feel more included by asking what paint color they'd like in a bedroom or taking them shopping for decor.\\nAlso, give them some freedom to express themselves, such as hanging a sign reading “Daisy's Room\\\" to claim their space.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Remember that your stepchild is innocent, regardless of the circumstances. Don't take it out in them if you have a problem with their other parent or your spouse.\\n\", \"Be realistic. Your stepchildren may never become extremely close to you or act like your children. This does not mean that you have failed or that you are a bad step-parent. Simply strive for a positive, civil relationship.\\n\", \"Use humor to diffuse tension when it arises. This situation is challenging, but it doesn't have to feel like a burden. Stay light-hearted and open-minded.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,377
How to Build a Hexagon Picnic Table
1. Steps 1-1. Gather the required materials (see, Things You'll Need, below). You want to buy good quality materials with minimal knots, splits, or warping. Cedar, redwood, or even the new recycled plastic decking is best for flat surfaces. In this article, treated southern, yellow pine lumber is used. Set up a work area so you can cut and assemble parts conveniently. You will need a workbench or table at least four feet square, as well as saw horses and a bench for your miter saw. 1-2. Mark the basic hexagon shape of the hub, or center of your table on your work table or a sheet of plywood. This will help you place pieces in the correct position. You can lay out the hub with a framing square, drawing a center line, transversal (with its length roughly 1 1/2 inch (3.75cm) longer than 2 spokes placed end-to-end), then marking two 60 degree angles on each side at the center so the third angle between them on each side will be 60 degrees also (for 6 x 60 = 360 degrees), then measuring out from the center point equal distances (in the length of the spoke), and finally, connecting these points to form the outline of the hexagon (for 6 equal outer edge boards). 1-3. Use the drawing on the table surface to establish the length of the members that will form the "band" (outer edge boards) of the hexagon. For the table in the illustrations, the six sides are 24 inches (61cm); cut off a 30 degree angle from each end (leaving 60 degrees). Of course, when pairs of sides are put together while forming the band, the resulting table corner is 120 degrees. 1-4. Fit the ends together to form a hexagon with equal sides, then fasten the ends with 2 1/2 inch (6.35cm) galvanized or corrosion resistant wood screws. Pre-drill the holes through one side of these corners so they grip tightly and don't split. 1-5. Check to make sure each side is equal after the sides are fastened together by measuring across parallel sides. For the example project, each side is about 45 inches (114cm). A simple trick to keep the sides from slipping or moving, toenail two sides with wood screws to the table top until the spokes, or internal framing members are fastened. 1-6. Cut a two by four to fit between two opposite corners, making a 30 degree cut, at each end, off the corner on each side to the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way. You might scribe these cuts, if you are unable to get an accurate measurement. 1-7. Fasten this 2X4 (5cm X 10cm) at each end with wood screws. Again pre-drill the band so the wood doesn't split and the screws pull up tightly. This assembly will be the basic support for the tabletop, and fitting everything flush (straight and aligned) and tightly joined together will give you a good, solid finished table. 1-8. Cut the four spokes. Measure the length of the spoke from the center of the transverse 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) out to one corner. Cut your spoke to that length.To cut the angles on the spoke, first scribe the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way on each end. Then cut the outer pointed-end of each spoke by cutting off 30 degrees from each edge to your scribed center. The hub-end will be cut 30 degrees to the center mark off one edge only, and 90 degrees off this end cut, from the center, to the other edge, thus dropping 60 degrees -- or after cutting 30 you could cut off 60 degrees to the center off the second edge, which would automatically leave that desired 90 (since 30+90+60 = 180). 1-9. Fasten these spokes in by screwing the first two on one side through the center board, and the opposite by toenailing with wood screws through the bevelled end. Again, pre-drill holes where possible, especially when fastening very near the end of the board. 1-10. Check the finished frame to make sure it is symmetrical and all sides are equal. Check that the edges are flush on both the top and bottom. Be aware that even finished lumber may vary slightly in width and thickness, so this step is important for a good finished project. 1-11. Cut 6 boards for the standards that will support the table top on the base frame, and 6 diagonal braces to help support them. The leg pieces in the illustrations are 10 inches (25cm) long, and the diagonal braces are 6 inches (15cm) long, 45 degrees on each end. 1-12. Pre-drill holes where fasteners will attach the supports to the frame. Then fasten the braces to these members. Keep the screws flush to the frame so each member can fit tightly in place. Use the same 2 1/2 inch #10 corrosion resistant wood screws. 1-13. Fit each standard in place. Secure the braces and check to make sure everything is in the proper location. 1-14. Place an 8 foot (243cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) across two opposite corners on top of these posts and center it between them. Then fasten it in place with screws. 1-15. Mark the center of this board. Draw a line down on each side with a square to mark the location where the radial boards that will support the seats will be fastened. Cut four of these with the same 30 degree angles centered on each side of one end. 1-16. Fasten these spoke members in place on the center board and on top of the posts at each end. Then brace them with diagonal braces, if you want, for extra support. 1-17. Cut 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) boards 12 inches (30cm) long with 30 degree off each end (ie: 60 degrees angles). Then fit them between the spoke boards to brace them. Make sure they are equal, as these will keep the seat support boards in position during the rest of the table assembly. 1-18. Cut six 14 inch (35cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm), square on each end, and six 10 inch (25cm) diagonal braces with 45 degree angles on each end. 1-19. Fasten the 14 inch (35cm) boards on the end and flush with the bottom of the spoke boards radiating from the center hub of the upper section of the framework you have assembled. Use a larger, heavier screw for this attachment, since it will be supporting the weight of the table and its occupants when the project is finished and the table is in use. 1-20. Fasten the diagonal braces to these legs, again, making sure the assembly is square and tight-fitting. 1-21. Check the finished assembly to make sure all fasteners are holding tightly and everything is sturdy and sound. Add screws to any connections that seem loose, and replace any boards that have split or do not seem sound. 1-22. Roll the framework off the assembly table so that it stands on the ground upside down from the assembly position. The legs should rest firmly on the ground or your work surface. If any seem to be too long or out of square, you might trim them, but that shouldn't be necessary, if they are all cut and fitted correctly. 1-23. Begin fastening the table top lumber on the hub assembly. The illustrations show 5/4 X 6 inch (3cm x 15cm) deck boards with radius edges, cedar or redwood, or 2 X 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) treated yellow pine can also be used. 1-24. Center the first plank on the center line between two opposite corners, checking the distance from opposite edges on opposite ends. Let one end overhand about 3 inches (7.5cm), and screw the plank down to hold it in place. Continue adding planks until one side is almost covered. 1-25. Make a line parallel to the supporting frame about 3 inches (7.5cm) outside that frame and cut the planks off with a circular saw. Save the drops (cut off ends) of these planks to finish the side you are working on and to start the other side. Make sure you fasten the planks securely; they may warp or twist, if exposed to the weather. 1-26. Finish laying and fastening the table top planks. Then trim all sides so they are equal and symmetrical to the base frame. Sand the edges to make sure there are no splinters or rough material to injure users of the table. 1-27. Place the seat boards on the 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) extending to the outside of the base frame. Each will have a cut approximately 30 degrees, the outside should cover the top of the legs where they fit the ends of the seat supports. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the seat planks so they don't split. 1-28. Fit all of the seat boards, taking care to recheck angles and adjusting them so each fits tightly to the adjoining board. 1-29. Sand any edges that may have splinters or rough surfaces and round the corners with a sander to avoid injuries to shins as people seat themselves at the finished table. 1-30. Finish the table with an exterior sealer or weather resistant paint, then enjoy your new table. Tips Use galvanized or corrosion resistant fasteners. Screws are preferred for staying tight more permanently, but nails will also give acceptable results. Scribe the transverse for cutting by placing your 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) centered across the two opposite corners off the hexagon and making scribe-marks (scratches) with a nail tip or a knife blade exactly where you would cut the angles. You can add a bigger mark to help you find the scribe-mark when you get ready to cut it. (Avoid using a pencil, marker or carpenter-crayon -- instead of scribing -- because they mark much too thickly for marking such tightly fitting cuts.) Choose lumber that will stand exposure to the elements. Treated southern yellow pine will warp and split if it isn't sealed or painted after assembly and drying. Warnings Keep your work area clear. Treated lumber contains toxic chemicals, prevent contamination of foods, if you use treated lumber. Make sure all guards are in place on power tools. Splinters and other hazards are a risk in any woodworking project. Wear safety glasses when cutting and fastening materials. Screws have sharp points, gloves may help prevent injuries.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather the required materials (see, Things You'll Need, below).\\nYou want to buy good quality materials with minimal knots, splits, or warping. Cedar, redwood, or even the new recycled plastic decking is best for flat surfaces. In this article, treated southern, yellow pine lumber is used.\\nSet up a work area so you can cut and assemble parts conveniently. You will need a workbench or table at least four feet square, as well as saw horses and a bench for your miter saw.\\n1-2. Mark the basic hexagon shape of the hub, or center of your table on your work table or a sheet of plywood.\\nThis will help you place pieces in the correct position.\\nYou can lay out the hub with a framing square, drawing a center line, transversal (with its length roughly 1 1/2 inch (3.75cm) longer than 2 spokes placed end-to-end), then marking two 60 degree angles on each side at the center so the third angle between them on each side will be 60 degrees also (for 6 x 60 = 360 degrees), then measuring out from the center point equal distances (in the length of the spoke), and finally, connecting these points to form the outline of the hexagon (for 6 equal outer edge boards).\\n1-3. Use the drawing on the table surface to establish the length of the members that will form the \\\"band\\\" (outer edge boards) of the hexagon.\\nFor the table in the illustrations, the six sides are 24 inches (61cm); cut off a 30 degree angle from each end (leaving 60 degrees). Of course, when pairs of sides are put together while forming the band, the resulting table corner is 120 degrees.\\n1-4. Fit the ends together to form a hexagon with equal sides, then fasten the ends with 2 1/2 inch (6.35cm) galvanized or corrosion resistant wood screws.\\nPre-drill the holes through one side of these corners so they grip tightly and don't split.\\n1-5. Check to make sure each side is equal after the sides are fastened together by measuring across parallel sides.\\nFor the example project, each side is about 45 inches (114cm). A simple trick to keep the sides from slipping or moving, toenail two sides with wood screws to the table top until the spokes, or internal framing members are fastened.\\n1-6. Cut a two by four to fit between two opposite corners, making a 30 degree cut, at each end, off the corner on each side to the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way.\\nYou might scribe these cuts, if you are unable to get an accurate measurement.\\n1-7. Fasten this 2X4 (5cm X 10cm) at each end with wood screws.\\nAgain pre-drill the band so the wood doesn't split and the screws pull up tightly. This assembly will be the basic support for the tabletop, and fitting everything flush (straight and aligned) and tightly joined together will give you a good, solid finished table.\\n1-8. Cut the four spokes.\\nMeasure the length of the spoke from the center of the transverse 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) out to one corner. Cut your spoke to that length.To cut the angles on the spoke, first scribe the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way on each end. Then cut the outer pointed-end of each spoke by cutting off 30 degrees from each edge to your scribed center. The hub-end will be cut 30 degrees to the center mark off one edge only, and 90 degrees off this end cut, from the center, to the other edge, thus dropping 60 degrees -- or after cutting 30 you could cut off 60 degrees to the center off the second edge, which would automatically leave that desired 90 (since 30+90+60 = 180).\\n1-9. Fasten these spokes in by screwing the first two on one side through the center board, and the opposite by toenailing with wood screws through the bevelled end.\\nAgain, pre-drill holes where possible, especially when fastening very near the end of the board.\\n1-10. Check the finished frame to make sure it is symmetrical and all sides are equal.\\nCheck that the edges are flush on both the top and bottom. Be aware that even finished lumber may vary slightly in width and thickness, so this step is important for a good finished project.\\n1-11. Cut 6 boards for the standards that will support the table top on the base frame, and 6 diagonal braces to help support them.\\nThe leg pieces in the illustrations are 10 inches (25cm) long, and the diagonal braces are 6 inches (15cm) long, 45 degrees on each end.\\n1-12. Pre-drill holes where fasteners will attach the supports to the frame.\\nThen fasten the braces to these members. Keep the screws flush to the frame so each member can fit tightly in place. Use the same 2 1/2 inch #10 corrosion resistant wood screws.\\n1-13. Fit each standard in place.\\nSecure the braces and check to make sure everything is in the proper location.\\n1-14. Place an 8 foot (243cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) across two opposite corners on top of these posts and center it between them.\\nThen fasten it in place with screws.\\n1-15. Mark the center of this board.\\nDraw a line down on each side with a square to mark the location where the radial boards that will support the seats will be fastened. Cut four of these with the same 30 degree angles centered on each side of one end.\\n1-16. Fasten these spoke members in place on the center board and on top of the posts at each end.\\nThen brace them with diagonal braces, if you want, for extra support.\\n1-17. Cut 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) boards 12 inches (30cm) long with 30 degree off each end (ie:\\n60 degrees angles). Then fit them between the spoke boards to brace them. Make sure they are equal, as these will keep the seat support boards in position during the rest of the table assembly.\\n1-18. Cut six 14 inch (35cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm), square on each end, and six 10 inch (25cm) diagonal braces with 45 degree angles on each end.\\n\\n1-19. Fasten the 14 inch (35cm) boards on the end and flush with the bottom of the spoke boards radiating from the center hub of the upper section of the framework you have assembled.\\nUse a larger, heavier screw for this attachment, since it will be supporting the weight of the table and its occupants when the project is finished and the table is in use.\\n1-20. Fasten the diagonal braces to these legs, again, making sure the assembly is square and tight-fitting.\\n\\n1-21. Check the finished assembly to make sure all fasteners are holding tightly and everything is sturdy and sound.\\nAdd screws to any connections that seem loose, and replace any boards that have split or do not seem sound.\\n1-22. Roll the framework off the assembly table so that it stands on the ground upside down from the assembly position.\\nThe legs should rest firmly on the ground or your work surface. If any seem to be too long or out of square, you might trim them, but that shouldn't be necessary, if they are all cut and fitted correctly.\\n1-23. Begin fastening the table top lumber on the hub assembly.\\nThe illustrations show 5/4 X 6 inch (3cm x 15cm) deck boards with radius edges, cedar or redwood, or 2 X 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) treated yellow pine can also be used.\\n1-24. Center the first plank on the center line between two opposite corners, checking the distance from opposite edges on opposite ends.\\nLet one end overhand about 3 inches (7.5cm), and screw the plank down to hold it in place. Continue adding planks until one side is almost covered.\\n1-25. Make a line parallel to the supporting frame about 3 inches (7.5cm) outside that frame and cut the planks off with a circular saw.\\nSave the drops (cut off ends) of these planks to finish the side you are working on and to start the other side. Make sure you fasten the planks securely; they may warp or twist, if exposed to the weather.\\n1-26. Finish laying and fastening the table top planks.\\nThen trim all sides so they are equal and symmetrical to the base frame. Sand the edges to make sure there are no splinters or rough material to injure users of the table.\\n1-27. Place the seat boards on the 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) extending to the outside of the base frame.\\nEach will have a cut approximately 30 degrees, the outside should cover the top of the legs where they fit the ends of the seat supports. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the seat planks so they don't split.\\n1-28. Fit all of the seat boards, taking care to recheck angles and adjusting them so each fits tightly to the adjoining board.\\n\\n1-29. Sand any edges that may have splinters or rough surfaces and round the corners with a sander to avoid injuries to shins as people seat themselves at the finished table.\\n\\n1-30. Finish the table with an exterior sealer or weather resistant paint, then enjoy your new table.\\n\\nTips\\nUse galvanized or corrosion resistant fasteners. Screws are preferred for staying tight more permanently, but nails will also give acceptable results.\\nScribe the transverse for cutting by placing your 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) centered across the two opposite corners off the hexagon and making scribe-marks (scratches) with a nail tip or a knife blade exactly where you would cut the angles. You can add a bigger mark to help you find the scribe-mark when you get ready to cut it. (Avoid using a pencil, marker or carpenter-crayon -- instead of scribing -- because they mark much too thickly for marking such tightly fitting cuts.)\\nChoose lumber that will stand exposure to the elements. Treated southern yellow pine will warp and split if it isn't sealed or painted after assembly and drying.\\nWarnings\\nKeep your work area clear.\\nTreated lumber contains toxic chemicals, prevent contamination of foods, if you use treated lumber.\\nMake sure all guards are in place on power tools.\\nSplinters and other hazards are a risk in any woodworking project.\\nWear safety glasses when cutting and fastening materials.\\nScrews have sharp points, gloves may help prevent injuries.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Picnic tables can be a great place for a family gathering or for outdoor art projects. This design is great for meals, since everyone is facing toward the center, and items on the table are in easy reach of all the seated guests.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the required materials (see, Things You'll Need, below).\", \"描述\": \"You want to buy good quality materials with minimal knots, splits, or warping. Cedar, redwood, or even the new recycled plastic decking is best for flat surfaces. In this article, treated southern, yellow pine lumber is used.\\nSet up a work area so you can cut and assemble parts conveniently. You will need a workbench or table at least four feet square, as well as saw horses and a bench for your miter saw.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Mark the basic hexagon shape of the hub, or center of your table on your work table or a sheet of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"This will help you place pieces in the correct position.\\nYou can lay out the hub with a framing square, drawing a center line, transversal (with its length roughly 1 1/2 inch (3.75cm) longer than 2 spokes placed end-to-end), then marking two 60 degree angles on each side at the center so the third angle between them on each side will be 60 degrees also (for 6 x 60 = 360 degrees), then measuring out from the center point equal distances (in the length of the spoke), and finally, connecting these points to form the outline of the hexagon (for 6 equal outer edge boards).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use the drawing on the table surface to establish the length of the members that will form the \\\"band\\\" (outer edge boards) of the hexagon.\", \"描述\": \"For the table in the illustrations, the six sides are 24 inches (61cm); cut off a 30 degree angle from each end (leaving 60 degrees). Of course, when pairs of sides are put together while forming the band, the resulting table corner is 120 degrees.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fit the ends together to form a hexagon with equal sides, then fasten the ends with 2 1/2 inch (6.35cm) galvanized or corrosion resistant wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Pre-drill the holes through one side of these corners so they grip tightly and don't split.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check to make sure each side is equal after the sides are fastened together by measuring across parallel sides.\", \"描述\": \"For the example project, each side is about 45 inches (114cm). A simple trick to keep the sides from slipping or moving, toenail two sides with wood screws to the table top until the spokes, or internal framing members are fastened.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Cut a two by four to fit between two opposite corners, making a 30 degree cut, at each end, off the corner on each side to the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way.\", \"描述\": \"You might scribe these cuts, if you are unable to get an accurate measurement.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fasten this 2X4 (5cm X 10cm) at each end with wood screws.\", \"描述\": \"Again pre-drill the band so the wood doesn't split and the screws pull up tightly. This assembly will be the basic support for the tabletop, and fitting everything flush (straight and aligned) and tightly joined together will give you a good, solid finished table.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Cut the four spokes.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the length of the spoke from the center of the transverse 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) out to one corner. Cut your spoke to that length.To cut the angles on the spoke, first scribe the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way on each end. Then cut the outer pointed-end of each spoke by cutting off 30 degrees from each edge to your scribed center. The hub-end will be cut 30 degrees to the center mark off one edge only, and 90 degrees off this end cut, from the center, to the other edge, thus dropping 60 degrees -- or after cutting 30 you could cut off 60 degrees to the center off the second edge, which would automatically leave that desired 90 (since 30+90+60 = 180).\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Fasten these spokes in by screwing the first two on one side through the center board, and the opposite by toenailing with wood screws through the bevelled end.\", \"描述\": \"Again, pre-drill holes where possible, especially when fastening very near the end of the board.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Check the finished frame to make sure it is symmetrical and all sides are equal.\", \"描述\": \"Check that the edges are flush on both the top and bottom. Be aware that even finished lumber may vary slightly in width and thickness, so this step is important for a good finished project.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Cut 6 boards for the standards that will support the table top on the base frame, and 6 diagonal braces to help support them.\", \"描述\": \"The leg pieces in the illustrations are 10 inches (25cm) long, and the diagonal braces are 6 inches (15cm) long, 45 degrees on each end.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Pre-drill holes where fasteners will attach the supports to the frame.\", \"描述\": \"Then fasten the braces to these members. Keep the screws flush to the frame so each member can fit tightly in place. Use the same 2 1/2 inch #10 corrosion resistant wood screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Fit each standard in place.\", \"描述\": \"Secure the braces and check to make sure everything is in the proper location.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Place an 8 foot (243cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) across two opposite corners on top of these posts and center it between them.\", \"描述\": \"Then fasten it in place with screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Mark the center of this board.\", \"描述\": \"Draw a line down on each side with a square to mark the location where the radial boards that will support the seats will be fastened. Cut four of these with the same 30 degree angles centered on each side of one end.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Fasten these spoke members in place on the center board and on top of the posts at each end.\", \"描述\": \"Then brace them with diagonal braces, if you want, for extra support.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Cut 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) boards 12 inches (30cm) long with 30 degree off each end (ie:\", \"描述\": \"60 degrees angles). Then fit them between the spoke boards to brace them. Make sure they are equal, as these will keep the seat support boards in position during the rest of the table assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Cut six 14 inch (35cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm), square on each end, and six 10 inch (25cm) diagonal braces with 45 degree angles on each end.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Fasten the 14 inch (35cm) boards on the end and flush with the bottom of the spoke boards radiating from the center hub of the upper section of the framework you have assembled.\", \"描述\": \"Use a larger, heavier screw for this attachment, since it will be supporting the weight of the table and its occupants when the project is finished and the table is in use.\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Fasten the diagonal braces to these legs, again, making sure the assembly is square and tight-fitting.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 21, \"标题\": \"Check the finished assembly to make sure all fasteners are holding tightly and everything is sturdy and sound.\", \"描述\": \"Add screws to any connections that seem loose, and replace any boards that have split or do not seem sound.\"}, {\"编号\": 22, \"标题\": \"Roll the framework off the assembly table so that it stands on the ground upside down from the assembly position.\", \"描述\": \"The legs should rest firmly on the ground or your work surface. If any seem to be too long or out of square, you might trim them, but that shouldn't be necessary, if they are all cut and fitted correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 23, \"标题\": \"Begin fastening the table top lumber on the hub assembly.\", \"描述\": \"The illustrations show 5/4 X 6 inch (3cm x 15cm) deck boards with radius edges, cedar or redwood, or 2 X 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) treated yellow pine can also be used.\"}, {\"编号\": 24, \"标题\": \"Center the first plank on the center line between two opposite corners, checking the distance from opposite edges on opposite ends.\", \"描述\": \"Let one end overhand about 3 inches (7.5cm), and screw the plank down to hold it in place. Continue adding planks until one side is almost covered.\"}, {\"编号\": 25, \"标题\": \"Make a line parallel to the supporting frame about 3 inches (7.5cm) outside that frame and cut the planks off with a circular saw.\", \"描述\": \"Save the drops (cut off ends) of these planks to finish the side you are working on and to start the other side. Make sure you fasten the planks securely; they may warp or twist, if exposed to the weather.\"}, {\"编号\": 26, \"标题\": \"Finish laying and fastening the table top planks.\", \"描述\": \"Then trim all sides so they are equal and symmetrical to the base frame. Sand the edges to make sure there are no splinters or rough material to injure users of the table.\"}, {\"编号\": 27, \"标题\": \"Place the seat boards on the 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) extending to the outside of the base frame.\", \"描述\": \"Each will have a cut approximately 30 degrees, the outside should cover the top of the legs where they fit the ends of the seat supports. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the seat planks so they don't split.\"}, {\"编号\": 28, \"标题\": \"Fit all of the seat boards, taking care to recheck angles and adjusting them so each fits tightly to the adjoining board.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 29, \"标题\": \"Sand any edges that may have splinters or rough surfaces and round the corners with a sander to avoid injuries to shins as people seat themselves at the finished table.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 30, \"标题\": \"Finish the table with an exterior sealer or weather resistant paint, then enjoy your new table.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use galvanized or corrosion resistant fasteners. Screws are preferred for staying tight more permanently, but nails will also give acceptable results.\\n\", \"Scribe the transverse for cutting by placing your 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) centered across the two opposite corners off the hexagon and making scribe-marks (scratches) with a nail tip or a knife blade exactly where you would cut the angles. You can add a bigger mark to help you find the scribe-mark when you get ready to cut it. (Avoid using a pencil, marker or carpenter-crayon -- instead of scribing -- because they mark much too thickly for marking such tightly fitting cuts.)\\n\", \"Choose lumber that will stand exposure to the elements. Treated southern yellow pine will warp and split if it isn't sealed or painted after assembly and drying.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep your work area clear.\\n\", \"Treated lumber contains toxic chemicals, prevent contamination of foods, if you use treated lumber.\\n\", \"Make sure all guards are in place on power tools.\\n\", \"Splinters and other hazards are a risk in any woodworking project.\\n\", \"Wear safety glasses when cutting and fastening materials.\\n\", \"Screws have sharp points, gloves may help prevent injuries.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,378
How to Build a Hidden Camera Detector
1. Making a Simple Camera Detector 1-1. Cut out 2 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm) squares of red cellophane. You can purchase red cellophane at an arts and crafts store or you can buy it online. Use a ruler to measure out the squares of cellophane and cut them to size with scissors. You can also use red plastic or vinyl as an alternative to cellophane as long as it’s transparent. 1-2. Tape one cellophane square over the end of a toilet paper roll. Place the cellophane over the hole on the end of the roll and wrap scotch tape around the sides so that the cellophane stays in place. This will act as your viewfinder for the hidden camera detector. If you don’t have a toilet paper or paper towel roll, you can roll up a piece of cardboard instead. 1-3. Tape the other square over the end of a flashlight. Place the cellophane over the top of the lens of the flashlight and tape down the sides. The flashlight should reflect against any lense from hidden cameras in the room. You can also unscrew the lens and place the cellophane in between the light and lens before screwing it back on if you don’t want to tape it. 1-4. Turn off the lights in the room. It needs to be dark in the room so that you can see the refraction from the lense of any hidden cameras. You may not be able to see this refraction without the lights being off. You can also close the blinds or shutters in the room you’re inspecting to make it as dark as possible. 1-5. Scan the room while looking through the paper towel roll. Close one eye and hold the toilet paper roll up to your eye. Look at common hidden camera locations like the corner of the room, smoke detectors, or clocks. Whatever you’re looking at should appear red due to the red cellophane. 1-6. Shine the flashlight and look for red refractions. Shine the flashlight at the area where you’re looking with your viewfinder. If there is a hidden camera, the light from the flashlight will reflect off the lens in the camera. This will look like a bright red light through your paper towel roll. Once you see a refraction, inspect whatever object you think might be hiding a camera to verify that it is a hidden camera. 2. Finding Hidden Cameras in Other Ways 2-1. Look for small holes in common hidden camera spots. Hidden cameras will have a small hole where the lens is hidden. If you used your simple camera detector, you can verify shiny areas in the room by inspecting the object that refracted light. If you find a small hole where there isn’t normally one, there’s a very good chance that the object is hiding a hidden camera. 2-2. Purchase a radio frequency detector. You can purchase a radio frequency detector online or at select department stores. Turn on the detector and hold it up around objects that you think may be hiding a hidden camera. If the camera is emitting a radio frequency, the detector will find it and alert you. Radio frequency detectors can cost anywhere from $10 to $200. High-end frequency detectors come with extra features and may be more accurate than cheaper models. Keep in mind that the radio frequency detector will also pick up radio frequencies from other electronic equipment. You can also use a frequency detector to look for wireless microphones. 2-3. Download a hidden camera detector app for a cheaper alternative. Apps like Hidden Camera Detector, Glint Finder, and Wireless Camera Detector can be downloaded to your phone. These apps will either detect an electromagnetic field or the reflection from a hidden camera lens. Download the app and run it, then hold it up while you scan different objects in the room. Hidden Camera Finder costs $4.99 while Glint Finder and Wireless Camera Detector are free. You can also download a red strobe light app to use if you don't have a flashlight or red cellophane. 2-4. Look for wires or objects that look out of the ordinary. If the hidden camera requires a wired connection, you may notice excess wires that aren't normally there. If you notice that any appliances or electronic equipment have more wires than usual, inspect the device for any holes or scan it with a hidden camera detector to make sure that it isn’t hiding a camera. Hidden cameras are often hidden in clocks, fire alarms, and even AC wall chargers. 2-5. Check your local network for questionable devices. If the hidden camera is streaming video or recording video online, it’s most likely connected to the WiFi where you are. While most people rename their hidden camera device, some may forget. If you look at the WiFi connection and you see anything related to a camera, there’s a good chance there’s a hidden camera in your room. Many people will change the name of their device to something innocuous or a string of random letters and numbers.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Camera Detector\\n1-1. Cut out 2 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm) squares of red cellophane.\\nYou can purchase red cellophane at an arts and crafts store or you can buy it online. Use a ruler to measure out the squares of cellophane and cut them to size with scissors.\\nYou can also use red plastic or vinyl as an alternative to cellophane as long as it’s transparent.\\n1-2. Tape one cellophane square over the end of a toilet paper roll.\\nPlace the cellophane over the hole on the end of the roll and wrap scotch tape around the sides so that the cellophane stays in place. This will act as your viewfinder for the hidden camera detector.\\nIf you don’t have a toilet paper or paper towel roll, you can roll up a piece of cardboard instead.\\n1-3. Tape the other square over the end of a flashlight.\\nPlace the cellophane over the top of the lens of the flashlight and tape down the sides. The flashlight should reflect against any lense from hidden cameras in the room.\\nYou can also unscrew the lens and place the cellophane in between the light and lens before screwing it back on if you don’t want to tape it.\\n1-4. Turn off the lights in the room.\\nIt needs to be dark in the room so that you can see the refraction from the lense of any hidden cameras. You may not be able to see this refraction without the lights being off.\\nYou can also close the blinds or shutters in the room you’re inspecting to make it as dark as possible.\\n1-5. Scan the room while looking through the paper towel roll.\\nClose one eye and hold the toilet paper roll up to your eye. Look at common hidden camera locations like the corner of the room, smoke detectors, or clocks. Whatever you’re looking at should appear red due to the red cellophane.\\n1-6. Shine the flashlight and look for red refractions.\\nShine the flashlight at the area where you’re looking with your viewfinder. If there is a hidden camera, the light from the flashlight will reflect off the lens in the camera. This will look like a bright red light through your paper towel roll.\\nOnce you see a refraction, inspect whatever object you think might be hiding a camera to verify that it is a hidden camera.\\n2. Finding Hidden Cameras in Other Ways\\n2-1. Look for small holes in common hidden camera spots.\\nHidden cameras will have a small hole where the lens is hidden. If you used your simple camera detector, you can verify shiny areas in the room by inspecting the object that refracted light. If you find a small hole where there isn’t normally one, there’s a very good chance that the object is hiding a hidden camera.\\n2-2. Purchase a radio frequency detector.\\nYou can purchase a radio frequency detector online or at select department stores. Turn on the detector and hold it up around objects that you think may be hiding a hidden camera. If the camera is emitting a radio frequency, the detector will find it and alert you.\\nRadio frequency detectors can cost anywhere from $10 to $200.\\nHigh-end frequency detectors come with extra features and may be more accurate than cheaper models.\\nKeep in mind that the radio frequency detector will also pick up radio frequencies from other electronic equipment.\\nYou can also use a frequency detector to look for wireless microphones.\\n2-3. Download a hidden camera detector app for a cheaper alternative.\\nApps like Hidden Camera Detector, Glint Finder, and Wireless Camera Detector can be downloaded to your phone. These apps will either detect an electromagnetic field or the reflection from a hidden camera lens. Download the app and run it, then hold it up while you scan different objects in the room.\\nHidden Camera Finder costs $4.99 while Glint Finder and Wireless Camera Detector are free.\\nYou can also download a red strobe light app to use if you don't have a flashlight or red cellophane.\\n2-4. Look for wires or objects that look out of the ordinary.\\nIf the hidden camera requires a wired connection, you may notice excess wires that aren't normally there. If you notice that any appliances or electronic equipment have more wires than usual, inspect the device for any holes or scan it with a hidden camera detector to make sure that it isn’t hiding a camera.\\nHidden cameras are often hidden in clocks, fire alarms, and even AC wall chargers.\\n2-5. Check your local network for questionable devices.\\nIf the hidden camera is streaming video or recording video online, it’s most likely connected to the WiFi where you are. While most people rename their hidden camera device, some may forget. If you look at the WiFi connection and you see anything related to a camera, there’s a good chance there’s a hidden camera in your room.\\nMany people will change the name of their device to something innocuous or a string of random letters and numbers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"No one likes to be spied on without their permission. Unfortunately, hidden camera technology is getting better year by year and finding one with the naked eye can be rather difficult. Luckily, there is a cheap and easy way you can build your own hidden camera detector. All you need is some red cellophane, a toilet paper roll, and a flashlight. Once the detector is built, you can use it to locate any hidden cameras that may be in the room.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Camera Detector\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut out 2 3 in × 3 in (7.6 cm × 7.6 cm) squares of red cellophane.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase red cellophane at an arts and crafts store or you can buy it online. Use a ruler to measure out the squares of cellophane and cut them to size with scissors.\\nYou can also use red plastic or vinyl as an alternative to cellophane as long as it’s transparent.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tape one cellophane square over the end of a toilet paper roll.\", \"描述\": \"Place the cellophane over the hole on the end of the roll and wrap scotch tape around the sides so that the cellophane stays in place. This will act as your viewfinder for the hidden camera detector.\\nIf you don’t have a toilet paper or paper towel roll, you can roll up a piece of cardboard instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Tape the other square over the end of a flashlight.\", \"描述\": \"Place the cellophane over the top of the lens of the flashlight and tape down the sides. The flashlight should reflect against any lense from hidden cameras in the room.\\nYou can also unscrew the lens and place the cellophane in between the light and lens before screwing it back on if you don’t want to tape it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Turn off the lights in the room.\", \"描述\": \"It needs to be dark in the room so that you can see the refraction from the lense of any hidden cameras. You may not be able to see this refraction without the lights being off.\\nYou can also close the blinds or shutters in the room you’re inspecting to make it as dark as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Scan the room while looking through the paper towel roll.\", \"描述\": \"Close one eye and hold the toilet paper roll up to your eye. Look at common hidden camera locations like the corner of the room, smoke detectors, or clocks. Whatever you’re looking at should appear red due to the red cellophane.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Shine the flashlight and look for red refractions.\", \"描述\": \"Shine the flashlight at the area where you’re looking with your viewfinder. If there is a hidden camera, the light from the flashlight will reflect off the lens in the camera. This will look like a bright red light through your paper towel roll.\\nOnce you see a refraction, inspect whatever object you think might be hiding a camera to verify that it is a hidden camera.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Finding Hidden Cameras in Other Ways\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Look for small holes in common hidden camera spots.\", \"描述\": \"Hidden cameras will have a small hole where the lens is hidden. If you used your simple camera detector, you can verify shiny areas in the room by inspecting the object that refracted light. If you find a small hole where there isn’t normally one, there’s a very good chance that the object is hiding a hidden camera.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase a radio frequency detector.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase a radio frequency detector online or at select department stores. Turn on the detector and hold it up around objects that you think may be hiding a hidden camera. If the camera is emitting a radio frequency, the detector will find it and alert you.\\nRadio frequency detectors can cost anywhere from $10 to $200.\\nHigh-end frequency detectors come with extra features and may be more accurate than cheaper models.\\nKeep in mind that the radio frequency detector will also pick up radio frequencies from other electronic equipment.\\nYou can also use a frequency detector to look for wireless microphones.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Download a hidden camera detector app for a cheaper alternative.\", \"描述\": \"Apps like Hidden Camera Detector, Glint Finder, and Wireless Camera Detector can be downloaded to your phone. These apps will either detect an electromagnetic field or the reflection from a hidden camera lens. Download the app and run it, then hold it up while you scan different objects in the room.\\nHidden Camera Finder costs $4.99 while Glint Finder and Wireless Camera Detector are free.\\nYou can also download a red strobe light app to use if you don't have a flashlight or red cellophane.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Look for wires or objects that look out of the ordinary.\", \"描述\": \"If the hidden camera requires a wired connection, you may notice excess wires that aren't normally there. If you notice that any appliances or electronic equipment have more wires than usual, inspect the device for any holes or scan it with a hidden camera detector to make sure that it isn’t hiding a camera.\\nHidden cameras are often hidden in clocks, fire alarms, and even AC wall chargers.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Check your local network for questionable devices.\", \"描述\": \"If the hidden camera is streaming video or recording video online, it’s most likely connected to the WiFi where you are. While most people rename their hidden camera device, some may forget. If you look at the WiFi connection and you see anything related to a camera, there’s a good chance there’s a hidden camera in your room.\\nMany people will change the name of their device to something innocuous or a string of random letters and numbers.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,379
How to Build a Hidden Door Bookshelf
1. Steps 1-1. Calculate the dimensions of your space. First, measure how wide the bookshelf will need to be to cover the door. Then, determine whether or not you can put the bookcase far enough away from the soon-to-be-hidden door that it can swing outwards without hitting any neighboring walls or furniture. Make sure that the hidden door won’t swing into the bookshelf, either. 1-2. Weld Don't hinge the wood shelves directly; a steel frame made from box tubing will allow the door to swing easily and will support 500-1000lbs / 225-450kg (a full bookshelf) with no problem. . The width should just cover the access door and be centered. The height should allow a minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below the crown. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/fd\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/fd\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-728px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . First, weld a piece of scrap 1/4in (6mm) plate to each pivot point, one of which should be on the top of the frame and the other, directly opposite it on the bottom. Then,weld a bolt to each plate for extra strength. Finally, cut each bolt to 2in (5cm) long. Each pivot will fit inside a ceiling or floor mount that you will install later. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/b\/b1\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/b\/b1\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":550,"bigHeight":413,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 1-3. Install the steel frame. . An ideal piece of scrap steel (such as the one shown below) would already have holes in it for the pivot bolts. Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists. Add a short arm out to avoid rocking (which can be done with scrap steel). The short arm has to align with a joist or it will rock and break out the ceiling. Make the pivot point with a 3/4in (19mm) brass flange bearing inserted into a 1in (25mm) hole in the 2x2in (5x5cm) box. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/8e\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/8e\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-682px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":318,"bigWidth":682,"bigHeight":471,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . Unless it will be bolted to a concrete floor (in which case it can be much smaller than the ceiling anchor), simply repeat the process outlined above. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/2\/24\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/2\/24\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":460,"bigWidth":560,"bigHeight":560,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . Attach the top anchor loosely (letting it rock), slip in the frame and bottom anchor on the pin (with 2 washers on the pin above the bearing), then slide the whole set into place. Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in both directions. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f0\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f0\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":298,"bigWidth":550,"bigHeight":356,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . At the pivot point, split a tiny piece (about 3/8in / 19mm) of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt. This keeps the bearing from slipping down. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f6\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f6\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":550,"bigHeight":413,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . For an accurate test, position 500lbs / 225kgs’ worth of people in it. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/88\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/88\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":298,"bigWidth":550,"bigHeight":356,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 1-4. Build the bookcase . When sizing it, be sure to verify the clearance. You can make the swinging bookcase 2in (5cm) shallower than the other shelves to allow clearance behind it for when it is swung. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/1f\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/1f\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":460,"bigWidth":560,"bigHeight":560,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} . To measure the clearance between the trim and the crown, use a credit card. The trim on the hinged side of the shelf-door should be attached to the fixed shelf; on the non-hinged side, however, it should move with the door. If the horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens, bevel notches in the trim on the right. If necessary, slightly round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/e\/e8\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/e\/e8\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":298,"bigWidth":550,"bigHeight":356,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 1-5. Install a wooden doorstop above the door. This can simply be a block of wood with a strong magnet (ex. a door magnet) held in place where the frame should ideally rest. This will not only hit the steel to keep the door from closing too far, but also hold the door so that it doesn't float open. 1-6. Test the finished product. Make sure it swings nicely and looks inconspicuous. Tips When making the hinged door, use good, easy to use hinges.[3] X Research source This particular project can be completed for approximately under US $500, plus labor. Of course, if you're doing it yourself, the labor cost is zilch, but supplies may be in duplicate. Exact measurements will vary depending on the area in which you're building the bookshelves and the size of the door you're hiding. Warnings Make sure you are not violating any building codes by hiding the entrance to a room. Many building codes require, for example, that the entrance to a utility room with a furnace or gas line be clearly visible in case of emergency. Do not undertake any major projects or renovations if you are renting (unless you get prior approval from your landlord). Do not attempt this project if you are a welding or carpentry amateur. This is an advanced do-it-yourself project. Always take proper safety precautions when working with welding equipment and sharp tools.[4] X Research source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Calculate the dimensions of your space.\\nFirst, measure how wide the bookshelf will need to be to cover the door. Then, determine whether or not you can put the bookcase far enough away from the soon-to-be-hidden door that it can swing outwards without hitting any neighboring walls or furniture. Make sure that the hidden door won’t swing into the bookshelf, either.\\n1-2. Weld\\nDon't hinge the wood shelves directly; a steel frame made from box tubing will allow the door to swing easily and will support 500-1000lbs / 225-450kg (a full bookshelf) with no problem. \\n\\n. The width should just cover the access door and be centered. The height should allow a minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below the crown. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fd\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fd\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-728px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. First, weld a piece of scrap 1/4in (6mm) plate to each pivot point, one of which should be on the top of the frame and the other, directly opposite it on the bottom. Then,weld a bolt to each plate for extra strength. Finally, cut each bolt to 2in (5cm) long. Each pivot will fit inside a ceiling or floor mount that you will install later. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b1\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b1\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":413,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Install the steel frame.\\n. An ideal piece of scrap steel (such as the one shown below) would already have holes in it for the pivot bolts. Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists. Add a short arm out to avoid rocking (which can be done with scrap steel). The short arm has to align with a joist or it will rock and break out the ceiling. Make the pivot point with a 3/4in (19mm) brass flange bearing inserted into a 1in (25mm) hole in the 2x2in (5x5cm) box. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8e\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8e\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-682px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":318,\\\"bigWidth\\\":682,\\\"bigHeight\\\":471,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. Unless it will be bolted to a concrete floor (in which case it can be much smaller than the ceiling anchor), simply repeat the process outlined above. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/24\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/24\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":560,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. Attach the top anchor loosely (letting it rock), slip in the frame and bottom anchor on the pin (with 2 washers on the pin above the bearing), then slide the whole set into place. Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in both directions. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. At the pivot point, split a tiny piece (about 3/8in / 19mm) of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt. This keeps the bearing from slipping down. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f6\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f6\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":413,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. For an accurate test, position 500lbs / 225kgs’ worth of people in it.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/88\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/88\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-4. Build the bookcase\\n. When sizing it, be sure to verify the clearance. You can make the swinging bookcase 2in (5cm) shallower than the other shelves to allow clearance behind it for when it is swung. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":560,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. To measure the clearance between the trim and the crown, use a credit card. The trim on the hinged side of the shelf-door should be attached to the fixed shelf; on the non-hinged side, however, it should move with the door. If the horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens, bevel notches in the trim on the right. If necessary, slightly round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e8\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e8\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-5. Install a wooden doorstop above the door.\\nThis can simply be a block of wood with a strong magnet (ex. a door magnet) held in place where the frame should ideally rest. This will not only hit the steel to keep the door from closing too far, but also hold the door so that it doesn't float open.\\n1-6. Test the finished product.\\nMake sure it swings nicely and looks inconspicuous.\\nTips\\nWhen making the hinged door, use good, easy to use hinges.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nThis particular project can be completed for approximately under US $500, plus labor. Of course, if you're doing it yourself, the labor cost is zilch, but supplies may be in duplicate.\\nExact measurements will vary depending on the area in which you're building the bookshelves and the size of the door you're hiding.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you are not violating any building codes by hiding the entrance to a room. Many building codes require, for example, that the entrance to a utility room with a furnace or gas line be clearly visible in case of emergency.\\nDo not undertake any major projects or renovations if you are renting (unless you get prior approval from your landlord).\\nDo not attempt this project if you are a welding or carpentry amateur. This is an advanced do-it-yourself project.\\nAlways take proper safety precautions when working with welding equipment and sharp tools.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you have a door to a storage area or, perhaps, a secret room? What better way to hide it than with a swinging bookcase? It not only indulges your inner mystery-lover, but it also makes extra use of an otherwise unusable or perhaps not aesthetically pleasing space. To build a hidden door bookshelf that you can customize to your own specifications, follow these instructions.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Calculate the dimensions of your space.\", \"描述\": \"First, measure how wide the bookshelf will need to be to cover the door. Then, determine whether or not you can put the bookcase far enough away from the soon-to-be-hidden door that it can swing outwards without hitting any neighboring walls or furniture. Make sure that the hidden door won’t swing into the bookshelf, either.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Weld\", \"描述\": \"Don't hinge the wood shelves directly; a steel frame made from box tubing will allow the door to swing easily and will support 500-1000lbs / 225-450kg (a full bookshelf) with no problem. \\n\\n. The width should just cover the access door and be centered. The height should allow a minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below the crown. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fd\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/fd\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-728px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. First, weld a piece of scrap 1/4in (6mm) plate to each pivot point, one of which should be on the top of the frame and the other, directly opposite it on the bottom. Then,weld a bolt to each plate for extra strength. Finally, cut each bolt to 2in (5cm) long. Each pivot will fit inside a ceiling or floor mount that you will install later. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b1\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/b\\\\/b1\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-2Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":413,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install the steel frame.\", \"描述\": \". An ideal piece of scrap steel (such as the one shown below) would already have holes in it for the pivot bolts. Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists. Add a short arm out to avoid rocking (which can be done with scrap steel). The short arm has to align with a joist or it will rock and break out the ceiling. Make the pivot point with a 3/4in (19mm) brass flange bearing inserted into a 1in (25mm) hole in the 2x2in (5x5cm) box. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8e\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8e\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-682px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":318,\\\"bigWidth\\\":682,\\\"bigHeight\\\":471,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. Unless it will be bolted to a concrete floor (in which case it can be much smaller than the ceiling anchor), simply repeat the process outlined above. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/24\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/2\\\\/24\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":560,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. Attach the top anchor loosely (letting it rock), slip in the frame and bottom anchor on the pin (with 2 washers on the pin above the bearing), then slide the whole set into place. Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in both directions. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet3-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. At the pivot point, split a tiny piece (about 3/8in / 19mm) of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt. This keeps the bearing from slipping down. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f6\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f6\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet4-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":413,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. For an accurate test, position 500lbs / 225kgs’ worth of people in it.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/88\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/88\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-3Bullet5-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the bookcase\", \"描述\": \". When sizing it, be sure to verify the clearance. You can make the swinging bookcase 2in (5cm) shallower than the other shelves to allow clearance behind it for when it is swung. \\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-560px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet1-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":460,\\\"bigWidth\\\":560,\\\"bigHeight\\\":560,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\n. To measure the clearance between the trim and the crown, use a credit card. The trim on the hinged side of the shelf-door should be attached to the fixed shelf; on the non-hinged side, however, it should move with the door. If the horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens, bevel notches in the trim on the right. If necessary, slightly round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e8\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/e\\\\/e8\\\\/Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\\/aid154918-v4-550px-Build-a-Hidden-Door-Bookshelf-Step-4Bullet2-Version-2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":298,\\\"bigWidth\\\":550,\\\"bigHeight\\\":356,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install a wooden doorstop above the door.\", \"描述\": \"This can simply be a block of wood with a strong magnet (ex. a door magnet) held in place where the frame should ideally rest. This will not only hit the steel to keep the door from closing too far, but also hold the door so that it doesn't float open.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Test the finished product.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure it swings nicely and looks inconspicuous.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When making the hinged door, use good, easy to use hinges.[3]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"This particular project can be completed for approximately under US $500, plus labor. Of course, if you're doing it yourself, the labor cost is zilch, but supplies may be in duplicate.\\n\", \"Exact measurements will vary depending on the area in which you're building the bookshelves and the size of the door you're hiding.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you are not violating any building codes by hiding the entrance to a room. Many building codes require, for example, that the entrance to a utility room with a furnace or gas line be clearly visible in case of emergency.\\n\", \"Do not undertake any major projects or renovations if you are renting (unless you get prior approval from your landlord).\\n\", \"Do not attempt this project if you are a welding or carpentry amateur. This is an advanced do-it-yourself project.\\n\", \"Always take proper safety precautions when working with welding equipment and sharp tools.[4]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,380
How to Build a High Powered Laser
1. Steps 1-1. Lay the desktop computer on its side and open the cover. This should be relatively easily done by unscrewing the screws running alongside of the cover. 1-2. Remove the cover. Extract two of the main components, the PSU and the DVD burner. The PSU should come right out, and the DVD burner might be anchored down with two small screws. Undo those and it should come right out of place. 1-3. Extract the heat sinks. After extracting the first two main components, you need to extract the heat sinks; they will easily pop out with no effort and are usually located on the motherboard. The picture above is what the heat sinks look like. The second heat sink will be a smaller version of the one shown, it will be placed directly on top of the motherboard, so when you open the computer and take our components out will see a tiny heat sink sitting on top o what looks like a giant microchip, just pull it out. 1-4. Open the DVD burner and extract the sled. After extracting the sled, you will need to remove the laser diode located in the sled. The sled should be relatively easy to remove, as it is located on the upper face of the burner. 1-5. Unscrew the diode head. Once you remove the sled, and file down the soldered metal to make a smooth shape around the base. You should end up with a lense diode that is captured in the picture above. Most DVD burners will have the same set-up. However, if your burner is different, your diode will still look like the one in the picture. 1-6. Press the laser diode into an AIXIS module. These can be purchased on eBay for around $3-8 each, and can be easily assembled and re-assembled. 1-7. Ensure you've squeezed the diode into the module. Make sure that you attach long wires into the diode following this schematic. Your positive IN will show a thick circle around the attachment point so will your PD (unused). However, your negative will show a thinner circle around its entry point, and they will be arranged in the same order as this schematic. Solder your wires into the proper points and your end product should look like figure two above. 1-8. Do not reverse the polarity. In this step, you will need to be very careful as to not reverse the polarity when soldering wires; make sure you clearly marked your (+) and (-) wires on your laser diode. Solder the positive output wire to the 3 ohm resistor, then continue by soldering the second end of the resistor to the output tongue of your lm 371 module(3). As for your diode's negative wire, solder that directly into the ground tongue of your module(2) and create a wire for running to a negative wire. From your input tongue on your module(1), solder the positive running wire. When soldering it is suggested that use a plastic card is used as a separator all between elements to avoid run off of the liquid metal. If you are new to using a soldering iron, practice on some spare wires first. 1-9. Drill a ½ inch hole horizontally into your heat sink. After that, clean the whole form (all metal debris), and insert your laser diode assembly into it, making sure the side with the lens sits flush against the edge of the heat sink. After carefully positioning the diode assembly, use thermal glue to permanently affix it into place. Allow ample time for the finished product to dry. (During this time you will start working on the PSU.) 1-10. Start working on the PSU. The PSU can be slightly tricky. Break it down into the following steps: Clip off all of the white plastic wire connectors. Sort the wires by colors; this will make the job way easier. Find the black and green wires, clip them, and then tie them together (make sure you cover the exposed area with electric tape) The yellow wire will be your (+), the red wire your (-). Solder the wires to your module wires as directed in step eight. You may want to glue the second heat sink to the module chip, since this chip might get really hot. 1-11. Make sure all of your wire connections are properly insulated and soldered. Since you're working with a 110V power supply all naked wires must be covered to make sure no exposed wires are rubbing on each other. 1-12. Put on safety goggles. While wearing safety goggles, make sure that the diode is facing a wall of a hard surface, and plug the PSU into a power outlet. Turn on the power button and enjoy your new laser. The laser can run for prolonged periods of time without getting hot since the heat sinks will help dissipate the heat from both the diode and the module. Tips If the diode does not fire, check to make sure it is not cracked. In case no light comes out, check your wiring to make sure none of the (-) and (+) terminals have been reversed. If the diode or drive start overheating, make sure they are properly tucked into the heat sinks. Warnings Always wear eye protection while operating the laser. Make sure you perform the experiment in a controlled environment away from all flammable materials. Make sure all of your electrical connections are proper and insulated to avoid any electrical shock or fires. This laser will burn through surfaces, so avoid contact with humans, animals, or flammable surfaces and materials. Always make sure you have a fire extinguisher and first aid kit on hand. Do not perform this experiment unless an adult is present. Harm and damage can be done by you or to anyone performing this experiment.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Lay the desktop computer on its side and open the cover.\\nThis should be relatively easily done by unscrewing the screws running alongside of the cover.\\n1-2. Remove the cover.\\nExtract two of the main components, the PSU and the DVD burner.\\nThe PSU should come right out, and the DVD burner might be anchored down with two small screws. Undo those and it should come right out of place.\\n1-3. Extract the heat sinks.\\nAfter extracting the first two main components, you need to extract the heat sinks; they will easily pop out with no effort and are usually located on the motherboard. The picture above is what the heat sinks look like. The second heat sink will be a smaller version of the one shown, it will be placed directly on top of the motherboard, so when you open the computer and take our components out will see a tiny heat sink sitting on top o what looks like a giant microchip, just pull it out.\\n1-4. Open the DVD burner and extract the sled.\\nAfter extracting the sled, you will need to remove the laser diode located in the sled.\\nThe sled should be relatively easy to remove, as it is located on the upper face of the burner.\\n1-5. Unscrew the diode head.\\nOnce you remove the sled, and file down the soldered metal to make a smooth shape around the base. You should end up with a lense diode that is captured in the picture above. Most DVD burners will have the same set-up. However, if your burner is different, your diode will still look like the one in the picture.\\n1-6. Press the laser diode into an AIXIS module.\\nThese can be purchased on eBay for around $3-8 each, and can be easily assembled and re-assembled.\\n1-7. Ensure you've squeezed the diode into the module.\\nMake sure that you attach long wires into the diode following this schematic.\\nYour positive IN will show a thick circle around the attachment point so will your PD (unused). However, your negative will show a thinner circle around its entry point, and they will be arranged in the same order as this schematic. Solder your wires into the proper points and your end product should look like figure two above.\\n1-8. Do not reverse the polarity.\\nIn this step, you will need to be very careful as to not reverse the polarity when soldering wires; make sure you clearly marked your (+) and (-) wires on your laser diode. Solder the positive output wire to the 3 ohm resistor, then continue by soldering the second end of the resistor to the output tongue of your lm 371 module(3). As for your diode's negative wire, solder that directly into the ground tongue of your module(2) and create a wire for running to a negative wire. From your input tongue on your module(1), solder the positive running wire. When soldering it is suggested that use a plastic card is used as a separator all between elements to avoid run off of the liquid metal. If you are new to using a soldering iron, practice on some spare wires first.\\n1-9. Drill a ½ inch hole horizontally into your heat sink.\\nAfter that, clean the whole form (all metal debris), and insert your laser diode assembly into it, making sure the side with the lens sits flush against the edge of the heat sink. After carefully positioning the diode assembly, use thermal glue to permanently affix it into place. Allow ample time for the finished product to dry. (During this time you will start working on the PSU.)\\n1-10. Start working on the PSU.\\nThe PSU can be slightly tricky. Break it down into the following steps:\\nClip off all of the white plastic wire connectors.\\nSort the wires by colors; this will make the job way easier.\\nFind the black and green wires, clip them, and then tie them together (make sure you cover the exposed area with electric tape)\\nThe yellow wire will be your (+), the red wire your (-).\\nSolder the wires to your module wires as directed in step eight.\\nYou may want to glue the second heat sink to the module chip, since this chip might get really hot.\\n1-11. Make sure all of your wire connections are properly insulated and soldered.\\nSince you're working with a 110V power supply all naked wires must be covered to make sure no exposed wires are rubbing on each other.\\n1-12. Put on safety goggles.\\nWhile wearing safety goggles, make sure that the diode is facing a wall of a hard surface, and plug the PSU into a power outlet. Turn on the power button and enjoy your new laser.\\nThe laser can run for prolonged periods of time without getting hot since the heat sinks will help dissipate the heat from both the diode and the module.\\nTips\\nIf the diode does not fire, check to make sure it is not cracked.\\nIn case no light comes out, check your wiring to make sure none of the (-) and (+) terminals have been reversed.\\nIf the diode or drive start overheating, make sure they are properly tucked into the heat sinks.\\nWarnings\\nAlways wear eye protection while operating the laser.\\nMake sure you perform the experiment in a controlled environment away from all flammable materials.\\nMake sure all of your electrical connections are proper and insulated to avoid any electrical shock or fires.\\nThis laser will burn through surfaces, so avoid contact with humans, animals, or flammable surfaces and materials.\\nAlways make sure you have a fire extinguisher and first aid kit on hand.\\nDo not perform this experiment unless an adult is present.\\nHarm and damage can be done by you or to anyone performing this experiment.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Want to learn how to build a simple but powerful laser with electronics you already have in your house? We'll show you how to use parts from a desktop computer with a DVD drive to create a fully-functioning red burning laser.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the desktop computer on its side and open the cover.\", \"描述\": \"This should be relatively easily done by unscrewing the screws running alongside of the cover.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the cover.\", \"描述\": \"Extract two of the main components, the PSU and the DVD burner.\\nThe PSU should come right out, and the DVD burner might be anchored down with two small screws. Undo those and it should come right out of place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Extract the heat sinks.\", \"描述\": \"After extracting the first two main components, you need to extract the heat sinks; they will easily pop out with no effort and are usually located on the motherboard. The picture above is what the heat sinks look like. The second heat sink will be a smaller version of the one shown, it will be placed directly on top of the motherboard, so when you open the computer and take our components out will see a tiny heat sink sitting on top o what looks like a giant microchip, just pull it out.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Open the DVD burner and extract the sled.\", \"描述\": \"After extracting the sled, you will need to remove the laser diode located in the sled.\\nThe sled should be relatively easy to remove, as it is located on the upper face of the burner.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Unscrew the diode head.\", \"描述\": \"Once you remove the sled, and file down the soldered metal to make a smooth shape around the base. You should end up with a lense diode that is captured in the picture above. Most DVD burners will have the same set-up. However, if your burner is different, your diode will still look like the one in the picture.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Press the laser diode into an AIXIS module.\", \"描述\": \"These can be purchased on eBay for around $3-8 each, and can be easily assembled and re-assembled.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Ensure you've squeezed the diode into the module.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that you attach long wires into the diode following this schematic.\\nYour positive IN will show a thick circle around the attachment point so will your PD (unused). However, your negative will show a thinner circle around its entry point, and they will be arranged in the same order as this schematic. Solder your wires into the proper points and your end product should look like figure two above.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Do not reverse the polarity.\", \"描述\": \"In this step, you will need to be very careful as to not reverse the polarity when soldering wires; make sure you clearly marked your (+) and (-) wires on your laser diode. Solder the positive output wire to the 3 ohm resistor, then continue by soldering the second end of the resistor to the output tongue of your lm 371 module(3). As for your diode's negative wire, solder that directly into the ground tongue of your module(2) and create a wire for running to a negative wire. From your input tongue on your module(1), solder the positive running wire. When soldering it is suggested that use a plastic card is used as a separator all between elements to avoid run off of the liquid metal. If you are new to using a soldering iron, practice on some spare wires first.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Drill a ½ inch hole horizontally into your heat sink.\", \"描述\": \"After that, clean the whole form (all metal debris), and insert your laser diode assembly into it, making sure the side with the lens sits flush against the edge of the heat sink. After carefully positioning the diode assembly, use thermal glue to permanently affix it into place. Allow ample time for the finished product to dry. (During this time you will start working on the PSU.)\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Start working on the PSU.\", \"描述\": \"The PSU can be slightly tricky. Break it down into the following steps:\\nClip off all of the white plastic wire connectors.\\nSort the wires by colors; this will make the job way easier.\\nFind the black and green wires, clip them, and then tie them together (make sure you cover the exposed area with electric tape)\\nThe yellow wire will be your (+), the red wire your (-).\\nSolder the wires to your module wires as directed in step eight.\\nYou may want to glue the second heat sink to the module chip, since this chip might get really hot.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Make sure all of your wire connections are properly insulated and soldered.\", \"描述\": \"Since you're working with a 110V power supply all naked wires must be covered to make sure no exposed wires are rubbing on each other.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Put on safety goggles.\", \"描述\": \"While wearing safety goggles, make sure that the diode is facing a wall of a hard surface, and plug the PSU into a power outlet. Turn on the power button and enjoy your new laser.\\nThe laser can run for prolonged periods of time without getting hot since the heat sinks will help dissipate the heat from both the diode and the module.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If the diode does not fire, check to make sure it is not cracked.\\n\", \"In case no light comes out, check your wiring to make sure none of the (-) and (+) terminals have been reversed.\\n\", \"If the diode or drive start overheating, make sure they are properly tucked into the heat sinks.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Always wear eye protection while operating the laser.\\n\", \"Make sure you perform the experiment in a controlled environment away from all flammable materials.\\n\", \"Make sure all of your electrical connections are proper and insulated to avoid any electrical shock or fires.\\n\", \"This laser will burn through surfaces, so avoid contact with humans, animals, or flammable surfaces and materials.\\n\", \"Always make sure you have a fire extinguisher and first aid kit on hand.\\n\", \"Do not perform this experiment unless an adult is present.\\n\", \"Harm and damage can be done by you or to anyone performing this experiment.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,381
How to Build a Hip Roof
1. Measuring and Cutting Rafters 1-1. Measure the building to calculate the length of your rafters. For a quick and easy approach, measure the width and height of all 4 walls using a laser distance measuring device. To use the tool, simply point it at 1 end of a wall and click the button. Then point it at the far end of the same wall, and push the button again to see the measured distance. If you don’t have a laser distance measuring device, you can use an ordinary tape measure to find the dimensions of your building’s walls. You can purchase a laser distance measuring device (and a tape measure) at a large hardware store. If you already know the measurements of the building (e.g., if it’s a small shed that you built), you can skip this step. 1-2. Calculate the length of each of your common rafters. Once you’ve measured the width of your building, divide that number by 2 (since each rafter only covers half the roof). Subtract the width off the ridge board. Then, calculate the roof pitch by writing down the number of inches that the roof is elevated vertically over the height of the roof. Use these measurements to calculate the length of each rafter using an online roofing calculator. For rafters on the short ends of the building, you’ll need to subtract the length of the ridge board from the total length of the building. This will indicate how long each of the long, lengthwise common rafters should measure. Find a roofing calculator online at: https://www.roofcalc.org/roof-rafter-calculator/. 1-3. Mark the location where you’ll cut each of the common rafters. Using a carpenter’s framing square, mark the angled plumb line with a pencil at the end of a wood plank to find the place where you’ll make the ridge cut (the cut at the top of the rafter). Then, use your pencil to make a mark at the framing square’s 1 ft (0.30 m) notch. Mark this increment on each rafter. Common rafters are those which run from the top of the wall to the top of the roof and connect to the ridge beam. 1-4. Mark the birdsmouth location on the rafters. The birdsmouth is the name for a gap you carve out of the rafter so it can fit on top of the building’s wall. To find the location where you’ll cut the birdsmouth, use the triangular part of the carpenter’s square and trace it onto the plank of wood with a pencil. Mark the birdsmouth cut location on all common rafters, jack rafters, and hip rafters. 1-5. Cut the common rafters Use the first rafter as a pattern for the rest. Use a round saw to cut the same patterns from the rest of the rafters. You should have enough common rafters so that there is one every 20 inches (51 cm) along the walls of the house. To figure how many rafters you’ll need, measure the length of the 4 walls and divide the total length in inches by 20. 1-6. Make the birdsmouth cuts in your common rafters. Use the framing square to find where the jack rafter’s plumb cuts will connect to the hip. The depth of the seat cut should be equal to the thickness of the wall you’re installing the rafter on. When you have the length of the jack rafters, use a round saw to cut the seat and shoulder cuts. A birdsmouth cut has 2 parts: a horizontal cut (called the seat cut) and a vertical cut (called a shoulder cut). The seat rests on top of the wall that you’re attaching the particular rafter to, while the shoulder cut parallels the wall and allows several inches of each rafter to overhang the roof. 2. Assembling the King and Hip Rafters 2-1. Attach 4-6 centering rafters and lift the ridge beam into place. The first step in the process of erecting the hip roof is to get the ridge beam into place at the top of the roof. Place the 4-6 common rafters in their designated positions along the 2 longest walls, and nail them firmly to the wall with a nail gun. Then, lift the ridge beam to the correct height. Centering rafters are common rafters that are used to steady the ridge beam. 2-2. Nail the ridge beam between the centering rafters. Set 5-6 more common rafters in place and nail them to the walls of the structure. These additional centering rafters will support the ridge beam and prevent it from collapsing. Once the extra common rafters are in place, use your nail gun to drive 1 nail through the top of each common rather and into the ridge beam. For the sake of safety and practicality, ask 2 or 3 friends or family members to help you when you’re installing the ridge beam. These helpers can hand the rafters to you as you attach them. 2-3. Attach the 6 king common rafters at the end of the ridge board. King common rafters keep the ridge board steady in place. Nail one rafter on each side of the hip roof to brace the ridge board in place. Then, nail the king rafters in place against the ridge board. King common rafters are the common rafters closest to the hip rafters. There are 6 of these rafters on every hip roof. King common rafters are structurally identical to the other common rafters. 2-4. Nail the hip rafters to the ridge beam and the corners of the walls. Lift the hip rafters into place once the ridge board is firmly in position. When you attach the hip rafters, nail them in place at the bottom first before nailing the top against the ridge beam. As you attach the hip rafters, attach a ceiling joist next to each one for extra support. Hip rafters are the 4 long, diagonal rafters that attach to the ends of the ridge beam and to the corners of the structure. 2-5. Nail the rest of the common rafters to the ridge beam. Measure carefully so that each common rafter is spaced exactly 20 inches (51 cm) from the adjacent common rafters. The common rafters and ridge beam should now stand solidly on their own. Most hip roofs only have 1 common rafter on the side of the roof built off of the short walls. 3. Finishing the Hip Roof 3-1. Nail the jack rafters to the hip rafters and secure them to the walls. Depending on the size of the roof, most hip roofs will have 4-6 short jack rafters that are spaced out every 20 inches (51 cm) between the hip rafters and the king common rafters. Measure the distance between the angled hip rafter and the top of the wall at 20 in (51 cm) increments and cut jack rafters to fit. Then use your nail gun to attach the jack rafters to the hip rafter and wall. Jack rafters run from the top of the structure’s wall to the angled hip rafter, parallel to the common rafters. 3-2. Determine the number of plywood sheets you’ll need. Begin by measuring the width and height of each of the 4 sides of the roof. Once you've made these measurements, multiply the length of each of the 4 sides by its height to find the area. Add the areas of all the sides together to calculate the total area of the roof. To find how many plywood sheets you'll need, measure a sheet of sheathing and multiply its length by its height to find the area. Finally, divide the area of the whole roof by the area of one plywood sheet to figure out the number of sheets you’ll need. For example, say that 2 of the sides of your hip roof measure 6 feet (1.8 m), 2 sides measure 10 feet (3.0 m), and the roof is 3 feet (0.91 m) high. The total length is then 32 feet (9.8 m), and the total area of the roof is 96 square feet (8.9 m). Then, if the plywood sheets are each 20 square feet (1.9 m), divide 96 by 20 to calculate that you’ll need 4.8 sheets of plywood. If the final calculation doesn't result in a whole number, round up to the nearest whole number. In our example, you’d need to purchase 5 sheets. 3-3. Nail the plywood sheathing to the rafters. Sheathing goes onto a roof prior to the final roofing material (e.g., shingles). Pick a corner to start placing the plywood sheathing. Use nails to tack the sheet in place on the rafters to hold it in place while you work. To make sure the first sheet of wood straight, tack up a second sheet next to it. Make sure the sheets are in line with the fascia so that the sheathing boards remain flat and level. The fascia are the straight, long boards that run along the top of a wall beneath the bottom edge of the roof. It’s attached to roof trusses. 3-4. Attach asphalt shingles or other desired roofing material. Many homes have asphalt shingles that are made from fiberglass and asphalt. These are the easiest and cheapest shingles to install. Plan to use at least 3 packages of shingles, and also a roll of underlayment and a roll of flashing. You’ll use asphalt cement to hold the shingles in place and prevent water from leaking into the interior of the building. You can purchase asphalt shingles and other roofing materials at a local hardware store or home-improvement store. Tips The types of rafters used in a hip roof include common, jack, hip, and ridge beam rafters. The ridge beam runs along horizontally along the top of the roof and is supported by the other rafters. The 4 hip rafters begin at the 4 corners of the roof and connect to the ridge beam. Common rafters are the uncut, full-length rafters that provide the majority of the roof’s structure and attach to the ridge board. Remember to subtract the size of the beams when making all your measurements so your hip rafters do not run from the walls to the top of the roof, but from the walls to the bottom of the ridge board. Warnings Do not secure the common rafters to the wall before nailing them to the roof beam as you may need to adjust their positioning along the wall after they are nailed in place.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Measuring and Cutting Rafters\\n1-1. Measure the building to calculate the length of your rafters.\\nFor a quick and easy approach, measure the width and height of all 4 walls using a laser distance measuring device. To use the tool, simply point it at 1 end of a wall and click the button. Then point it at the far end of the same wall, and push the button again to see the measured distance. If you don’t have a laser distance measuring device, you can use an ordinary tape measure to find the dimensions of your building’s walls.\\nYou can purchase a laser distance measuring device (and a tape measure) at a large hardware store.\\nIf you already know the measurements of the building (e.g., if it’s a small shed that you built), you can skip this step.\\n1-2. Calculate the length of each of your common rafters.\\nOnce you’ve measured the width of your building, divide that number by 2 (since each rafter only covers half the roof). Subtract the width off the ridge board. Then, calculate the roof pitch by writing down the number of inches that the roof is elevated vertically over the height of the roof. Use these measurements to calculate the length of each rafter using an online roofing calculator.\\nFor rafters on the short ends of the building, you’ll need to subtract the length of the ridge board from the total length of the building. This will indicate how long each of the long, lengthwise common rafters should measure.\\nFind a roofing calculator online at: https://www.roofcalc.org/roof-rafter-calculator/.\\n1-3. Mark the location where you’ll cut each of the common rafters.\\nUsing a carpenter’s framing square, mark the angled plumb line with a pencil at the end of a wood plank to find the place where you’ll make the ridge cut (the cut at the top of the rafter). Then, use your pencil to make a mark at the framing square’s 1 ft (0.30 m) notch. Mark this increment on each rafter.\\nCommon rafters are those which run from the top of the wall to the top of the roof and connect to the ridge beam.\\n1-4. Mark the birdsmouth location on the rafters.\\nThe birdsmouth is the name for a gap you carve out of the rafter so it can fit on top of the building’s wall. To find the location where you’ll cut the birdsmouth, use the triangular part of the carpenter’s square and trace it onto the plank of wood with a pencil.\\nMark the birdsmouth cut location on all common rafters, jack rafters, and hip rafters.\\n1-5. Cut the common rafters\\nUse the first rafter as a pattern for the rest. Use a round saw to cut the same patterns from the rest of the rafters. You should have enough common rafters so that there is one every 20 inches (51 cm) along the walls of the house.\\nTo figure how many rafters you’ll need, measure the length of the 4 walls and divide the total length in inches by 20.\\n1-6. Make the birdsmouth cuts in your common rafters.\\nUse the framing square to find where the jack rafter’s plumb cuts will connect to the hip. The depth of the seat cut should be equal to the thickness of the wall you’re installing the rafter on. When you have the length of the jack rafters, use a round saw to cut the seat and shoulder cuts.\\nA birdsmouth cut has 2 parts: a horizontal cut (called the seat cut) and a vertical cut (called a shoulder cut). The seat rests on top of the wall that you’re attaching the particular rafter to, while the shoulder cut parallels the wall and allows several inches of each rafter to overhang the roof.\\n2. Assembling the King and Hip Rafters\\n2-1. Attach 4-6 centering rafters and lift the ridge beam into place.\\nThe first step in the process of erecting the hip roof is to get the ridge beam into place at the top of the roof. Place the 4-6 common rafters in their designated positions along the 2 longest walls, and nail them firmly to the wall with a nail gun. Then, lift the ridge beam to the correct height.\\nCentering rafters are common rafters that are used to steady the ridge beam.\\n2-2. Nail the ridge beam between the centering rafters.\\nSet 5-6 more common rafters in place and nail them to the walls of the structure. These additional centering rafters will support the ridge beam and prevent it from collapsing. Once the extra common rafters are in place, use your nail gun to drive 1 nail through the top of each common rather and into the ridge beam.\\nFor the sake of safety and practicality, ask 2 or 3 friends or family members to help you when you’re installing the ridge beam. These helpers can hand the rafters to you as you attach them.\\n2-3. Attach the 6 king common rafters at the end of the ridge board.\\nKing common rafters keep the ridge board steady in place. Nail one rafter on each side of the hip roof to brace the ridge board in place. Then, nail the king rafters in place against the ridge board.\\nKing common rafters are the common rafters closest to the hip rafters. There are 6 of these rafters on every hip roof.\\nKing common rafters are structurally identical to the other common rafters.\\n2-4. Nail the hip rafters to the ridge beam and the corners of the walls.\\nLift the hip rafters into place once the ridge board is firmly in position. When you attach the hip rafters, nail them in place at the bottom first before nailing the top against the ridge beam. As you attach the hip rafters, attach a ceiling joist next to each one for extra support.\\nHip rafters are the 4 long, diagonal rafters that attach to the ends of the ridge beam and to the corners of the structure.\\n2-5. Nail the rest of the common rafters to the ridge beam.\\nMeasure carefully so that each common rafter is spaced exactly 20 inches (51 cm) from the adjacent common rafters. The common rafters and ridge beam should now stand solidly on their own.\\nMost hip roofs only have 1 common rafter on the side of the roof built off of the short walls.\\n3. Finishing the Hip Roof\\n3-1. Nail the jack rafters to the hip rafters and secure them to the walls.\\nDepending on the size of the roof, most hip roofs will have 4-6 short jack rafters that are spaced out every 20 inches (51 cm) between the hip rafters and the king common rafters. Measure the distance between the angled hip rafter and the top of the wall at 20 in (51 cm) increments and cut jack rafters to fit. Then use your nail gun to attach the jack rafters to the hip rafter and wall.\\nJack rafters run from the top of the structure’s wall to the angled hip rafter, parallel to the common rafters.\\n3-2. Determine the number of plywood sheets you’ll need.\\nBegin by measuring the width and height of each of the 4 sides of the roof. Once you've made these measurements, multiply the length of each of the 4 sides by its height to find the area. Add the areas of all the sides together to calculate the total area of the roof. To find how many plywood sheets you'll need, measure a sheet of sheathing and multiply its length by its height to find the area. Finally, divide the area of the whole roof by the area of one plywood sheet to figure out the number of sheets you’ll need. \\nFor example, say that 2 of the sides of your hip roof measure 6 feet (1.8 m), 2 sides measure 10 feet (3.0 m), and the roof is 3 feet (0.91 m) high. The total length is then 32 feet (9.8 m), and the total area of the roof is 96 square feet (8.9 m). Then, if the plywood sheets are each 20 square feet (1.9 m), divide 96 by 20 to calculate that you’ll need 4.8 sheets of plywood.\\nIf the final calculation doesn't result in a whole number, round up to the nearest whole number. In our example, you’d need to purchase 5 sheets.\\n3-3. Nail the plywood sheathing to the rafters.\\nSheathing goes onto a roof prior to the final roofing material (e.g., shingles). Pick a corner to start placing the plywood sheathing. Use nails to tack the sheet in place on the rafters to hold it in place while you work. To make sure the first sheet of wood straight, tack up a second sheet next to it. Make sure the sheets are in line with the fascia so that the sheathing boards remain flat and level. \\nThe fascia are the straight, long boards that run along the top of a wall beneath the bottom edge of the roof. It’s attached to roof trusses.\\n3-4. Attach asphalt shingles or other desired roofing material.\\nMany homes have asphalt shingles that are made from fiberglass and asphalt. These are the easiest and cheapest shingles to install. Plan to use at least 3 packages of shingles, and also a roll of underlayment and a roll of flashing. You’ll use asphalt cement to hold the shingles in place and prevent water from leaking into the interior of the building.\\nYou can purchase asphalt shingles and other roofing materials at a local hardware store or home-improvement store.\\nTips\\nThe types of rafters used in a hip roof include common, jack, hip, and ridge beam rafters. The ridge beam runs along horizontally along the top of the roof and is supported by the other rafters. The 4 hip rafters begin at the 4 corners of the roof and connect to the ridge beam. Common rafters are the uncut, full-length rafters that provide the majority of the roof’s structure and attach to the ridge board.\\nRemember to subtract the size of the beams when making all your measurements so your hip rafters do not run from the walls to the top of the roof, but from the walls to the bottom of the ridge board.\\nWarnings\\nDo not secure the common rafters to the wall before nailing them to the roof beam as you may need to adjust their positioning along the wall after they are nailed in place.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Any roof which has 4 sides, all of which slope upwards to meet at a seam at the top of the roof, is a hip roof. It is perhaps one of the simplest styles of roofing and is often combined with gables or other features. Hip roofs drain water well, and leaves don’t build up on them. While it's common to build hip roofs from trusses or premade frames, it is possible to build your own hip roof. Begin by measuring and cutting the wood, then move on to installing the rafters and sheathing.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measuring and Cutting Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure the building to calculate the length of your rafters.\", \"描述\": \"For a quick and easy approach, measure the width and height of all 4 walls using a laser distance measuring device. To use the tool, simply point it at 1 end of a wall and click the button. Then point it at the far end of the same wall, and push the button again to see the measured distance. If you don’t have a laser distance measuring device, you can use an ordinary tape measure to find the dimensions of your building’s walls.\\nYou can purchase a laser distance measuring device (and a tape measure) at a large hardware store.\\nIf you already know the measurements of the building (e.g., if it’s a small shed that you built), you can skip this step.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calculate the length of each of your common rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve measured the width of your building, divide that number by 2 (since each rafter only covers half the roof). Subtract the width off the ridge board. Then, calculate the roof pitch by writing down the number of inches that the roof is elevated vertically over the height of the roof. Use these measurements to calculate the length of each rafter using an online roofing calculator.\\nFor rafters on the short ends of the building, you’ll need to subtract the length of the ridge board from the total length of the building. This will indicate how long each of the long, lengthwise common rafters should measure.\\nFind a roofing calculator online at: https://www.roofcalc.org/roof-rafter-calculator/.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the location where you’ll cut each of the common rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Using a carpenter’s framing square, mark the angled plumb line with a pencil at the end of a wood plank to find the place where you’ll make the ridge cut (the cut at the top of the rafter). Then, use your pencil to make a mark at the framing square’s 1 ft (0.30 m) notch. Mark this increment on each rafter.\\nCommon rafters are those which run from the top of the wall to the top of the roof and connect to the ridge beam.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark the birdsmouth location on the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"The birdsmouth is the name for a gap you carve out of the rafter so it can fit on top of the building’s wall. To find the location where you’ll cut the birdsmouth, use the triangular part of the carpenter’s square and trace it onto the plank of wood with a pencil.\\nMark the birdsmouth cut location on all common rafters, jack rafters, and hip rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut the common rafters\", \"描述\": \"Use the first rafter as a pattern for the rest. Use a round saw to cut the same patterns from the rest of the rafters. You should have enough common rafters so that there is one every 20 inches (51 cm) along the walls of the house.\\nTo figure how many rafters you’ll need, measure the length of the 4 walls and divide the total length in inches by 20.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make the birdsmouth cuts in your common rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Use the framing square to find where the jack rafter’s plumb cuts will connect to the hip. The depth of the seat cut should be equal to the thickness of the wall you’re installing the rafter on. When you have the length of the jack rafters, use a round saw to cut the seat and shoulder cuts.\\nA birdsmouth cut has 2 parts: a horizontal cut (called the seat cut) and a vertical cut (called a shoulder cut). The seat rests on top of the wall that you’re attaching the particular rafter to, while the shoulder cut parallels the wall and allows several inches of each rafter to overhang the roof.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the King and Hip Rafters\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach 4-6 centering rafters and lift the ridge beam into place.\", \"描述\": \"The first step in the process of erecting the hip roof is to get the ridge beam into place at the top of the roof. Place the 4-6 common rafters in their designated positions along the 2 longest walls, and nail them firmly to the wall with a nail gun. Then, lift the ridge beam to the correct height.\\nCentering rafters are common rafters that are used to steady the ridge beam.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Nail the ridge beam between the centering rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Set 5-6 more common rafters in place and nail them to the walls of the structure. These additional centering rafters will support the ridge beam and prevent it from collapsing. Once the extra common rafters are in place, use your nail gun to drive 1 nail through the top of each common rather and into the ridge beam.\\nFor the sake of safety and practicality, ask 2 or 3 friends or family members to help you when you’re installing the ridge beam. These helpers can hand the rafters to you as you attach them.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the 6 king common rafters at the end of the ridge board.\", \"描述\": \"King common rafters keep the ridge board steady in place. Nail one rafter on each side of the hip roof to brace the ridge board in place. Then, nail the king rafters in place against the ridge board.\\nKing common rafters are the common rafters closest to the hip rafters. There are 6 of these rafters on every hip roof.\\nKing common rafters are structurally identical to the other common rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Nail the hip rafters to the ridge beam and the corners of the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Lift the hip rafters into place once the ridge board is firmly in position. When you attach the hip rafters, nail them in place at the bottom first before nailing the top against the ridge beam. As you attach the hip rafters, attach a ceiling joist next to each one for extra support.\\nHip rafters are the 4 long, diagonal rafters that attach to the ends of the ridge beam and to the corners of the structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail the rest of the common rafters to the ridge beam.\", \"描述\": \"Measure carefully so that each common rafter is spaced exactly 20 inches (51 cm) from the adjacent common rafters. The common rafters and ridge beam should now stand solidly on their own.\\nMost hip roofs only have 1 common rafter on the side of the roof built off of the short walls.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Hip Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Nail the jack rafters to the hip rafters and secure them to the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Depending on the size of the roof, most hip roofs will have 4-6 short jack rafters that are spaced out every 20 inches (51 cm) between the hip rafters and the king common rafters. Measure the distance between the angled hip rafter and the top of the wall at 20 in (51 cm) increments and cut jack rafters to fit. Then use your nail gun to attach the jack rafters to the hip rafter and wall.\\nJack rafters run from the top of the structure’s wall to the angled hip rafter, parallel to the common rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine the number of plywood sheets you’ll need.\", \"描述\": \"Begin by measuring the width and height of each of the 4 sides of the roof. Once you've made these measurements, multiply the length of each of the 4 sides by its height to find the area. Add the areas of all the sides together to calculate the total area of the roof. To find how many plywood sheets you'll need, measure a sheet of sheathing and multiply its length by its height to find the area. Finally, divide the area of the whole roof by the area of one plywood sheet to figure out the number of sheets you’ll need. \\nFor example, say that 2 of the sides of your hip roof measure 6 feet (1.8 m), 2 sides measure 10 feet (3.0 m), and the roof is 3 feet (0.91 m) high. The total length is then 32 feet (9.8 m), and the total area of the roof is 96 square feet (8.9 m). Then, if the plywood sheets are each 20 square feet (1.9 m), divide 96 by 20 to calculate that you’ll need 4.8 sheets of plywood.\\nIf the final calculation doesn't result in a whole number, round up to the nearest whole number. In our example, you’d need to purchase 5 sheets.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail the plywood sheathing to the rafters.\", \"描述\": \"Sheathing goes onto a roof prior to the final roofing material (e.g., shingles). Pick a corner to start placing the plywood sheathing. Use nails to tack the sheet in place on the rafters to hold it in place while you work. To make sure the first sheet of wood straight, tack up a second sheet next to it. Make sure the sheets are in line with the fascia so that the sheathing boards remain flat and level. \\nThe fascia are the straight, long boards that run along the top of a wall beneath the bottom edge of the roof. It’s attached to roof trusses.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach asphalt shingles or other desired roofing material.\", \"描述\": \"Many homes have asphalt shingles that are made from fiberglass and asphalt. These are the easiest and cheapest shingles to install. Plan to use at least 3 packages of shingles, and also a roll of underlayment and a roll of flashing. You’ll use asphalt cement to hold the shingles in place and prevent water from leaking into the interior of the building.\\nYou can purchase asphalt shingles and other roofing materials at a local hardware store or home-improvement store.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The types of rafters used in a hip roof include common, jack, hip, and ridge beam rafters. The ridge beam runs along horizontally along the top of the roof and is supported by the other rafters. The 4 hip rafters begin at the 4 corners of the roof and connect to the ridge beam. Common rafters are the uncut, full-length rafters that provide the majority of the roof’s structure and attach to the ridge board.\\n\", \"Remember to subtract the size of the beams when making all your measurements so your hip rafters do not run from the walls to the top of the roof, but from the walls to the bottom of the ridge board.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not secure the common rafters to the wall before nailing them to the roof beam as you may need to adjust their positioning along the wall after they are nailed in place.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
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How to Build a Home Studio for Computer Based Music Recording
1. Building a Home Studio 1-1. Write a plan of what you want to do. Do you want to build a recording studio? Is it a singing booth? Is it an engineering booth? Is it for computer-based music production? Knowing what you want before you start can help you decide which equipment you will need. Doing extensive research will help at this stage. Try to find a specialist at PC World, or your local Apple shop, take notes and then find more information on the Internet. 1-2. Acquire the appropriate equipment. This will include such items as amplifiers, microphones, mixers, electric instruments, cables for connecting it all together. A modern computer built or purchased within the past three years should be sufficient. If possible, acquire a working high-quality soundcard, such as an M-Audio Fast Track Pro or Digidesign Mbox 2 Mini. Creative Labs does have a Pro Music line called EMU. A 1212M PCI system is ideal if you were going to go that route. Monitor speakers are helpful if you are looking to stick with this for more than a hobby. The M-Audio Studiophile BX8a's, KRK RP-8 Rokit work well, and if you've got money to burn, the Mackie HR824 Studio Monitors. If you're into hip-hop, techno, or dance music, a set of turntables will be needed to record your sets or scratches on the fly. You can also use DJ software such as Traktor or Serato and a USB DJ controller to try out your mixes. A midi keyboard will be useful if you want to use midi software (which you can use to write bass lines, piano parts, and drum beats). Nothing fancy is needed, but each person will have their own preference. There are many advantages to having a midi keyboard because it will give you the tactile feel of a real instrument, which can greatly aid creativity. 1-3. Buy or download music-editing software for your PC. Pro Tools, Cubase, Reason, and FL Studio are popular brands for Windows while Logic is popular with Macs. Macs include a built in music-editing program called GarageBand. Garageband is great for beginners but it will be a good idea to upgrade to more advanced music production software such as Logic or Pro Tools to make more professional quality music. 1-4. Connect everything up. This is where most of the genius (and perspiration!) comes in. In general, keep it as simple as possible. For best playback quality run from the sound card into a mixer or amplifier and then to your monitor speakers. For best recording quality, run instruments/mics into a mixer(make sure you are getting a perfect signal) then run from the mixer into the sound card. 1-5. Learn how to record a sound from an input line and how to arrange pre-recorded sounds. Also learn how to turn an arrangement into a .wav or .mp3 file. (After all, eventually we want to make a CD with all this awesome music!) 1-6. Select a room in your house. Sound-proof it if possible. If not, try to use special carpet or insulation that can at least reduce external noise. 1-7. Start writing simple tracks. Start off with a drumbeat. Add a bass line or piano or vocal track. Start mixing. Explore! It's all about experimentation. At the beginning, you don't have to write a masterpiece - just focus on having fun! 1-8. If you have trouble with any of the above, pick up a Mixing / Studio Book. It will help you understand the underlying concepts needed to keep you going for a lifetime. Check out videos on YouTube to learn simple concepts and how to work your equipment. 1-9. Once you've learned the basics, start breaking it down. Lay a bunch of tracks together. Experiment with processed effects. Experiment with plugins, loops, new hardware and anything else you can get your hands onto. 2. Building a Basic Studio for Recording on a Budget 2-1. Obtain a suitable computer, preferably a Mac. It must be installed in the room you want to create music. 2-2. Get an audio interface, mic and sound output. For a few hundred dollars or pounds, you can pick up the Focusrite Scarlett Studio, with a 2i2 interface, CM25 mic and HP60 headphones. 2-3. Plug it in. The Scarlett Studio comes with all the cables included. 2-4. Start your Digital Audio Workstation program. PCs are best with Cubase, Macs with GarageBand or Logic Pro X. 2-5. Get a MIDI keyboard . Plug it in. 2-6. You have a basic studio. Enjoy! Tips The first few recordings will not sound very professional. No matter what recording software you choose, you will have to play with the quality settings as well as learn to mix your music to achieve the sound you want. The best way to do this would be to purchase good studio speakers (which are called monitors). You'll have to play music, movies and any other media based things through them so that you learn the monitors and get used to how things sound coming through them. Remember, your system is only as strong as the weakest link. When looking to upgrade equipment, work out what the most important piece of equipment is for your system. Is it the sound card, the mic, the software or the computer itself? Use DI boxes where applicable to cut down on noise and interference. Warnings As with all electrical equipment, exercise caution with live cables, wires, and speakers. Discharge static electricity when necessary. Make sure you turn on the monitor speakers after you turn on everything else. This is to avoid the sudden occurrence of transient noise caused by significant variations in the signal path (like turning on the mixer). Such noise is potentially harmful to your speakers as well as your ears. Make sure the mixer's main line isn't too hot! You'll blow your freaking eardrums out if you're not careful. Make sure you turn off phantom power before you unplug mics. You can ruin the mic and the preamp.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Home Studio\\n1-1. Write a plan of what you want to do.\\nDo you want to build a recording studio? Is it a singing booth? Is it an engineering booth? Is it for computer-based music production? Knowing what you want before you start can help you decide which equipment you will need. Doing extensive research will help at this stage. Try to find a specialist at PC World, or your local Apple shop, take notes and then find more information on the Internet.\\n1-2. Acquire the appropriate equipment.\\nThis will include such items as amplifiers, microphones, mixers, electric instruments, cables for connecting it all together. A modern computer built or purchased within the past three years should be sufficient. \\nIf possible, acquire a working high-quality soundcard, such as an M-Audio Fast Track Pro or Digidesign Mbox 2 Mini. Creative Labs does have a Pro Music line called EMU. A 1212M PCI system is ideal if you were going to go that route.\\nMonitor speakers are helpful if you are looking to stick with this for more than a hobby. The M-Audio Studiophile BX8a's, KRK RP-8 Rokit work well, and if you've got money to burn, the Mackie HR824 Studio Monitors.\\nIf you're into hip-hop, techno, or dance music, a set of turntables will be needed to record your sets or scratches on the fly. You can also use DJ software such as Traktor or Serato and a USB DJ controller to try out your mixes.\\nA midi keyboard will be useful if you want to use midi software (which you can use to write bass lines, piano parts, and drum beats). Nothing fancy is needed, but each person will have their own preference. There are many advantages to having a midi keyboard because it will give you the tactile feel of a real instrument, which can greatly aid creativity.\\n1-3. Buy or download music-editing software for your PC.\\nPro Tools, Cubase, Reason, and FL Studio are popular brands for Windows while Logic is popular with Macs. Macs include a built in music-editing program called GarageBand. Garageband is great for beginners but it will be a good idea to upgrade to more advanced music production software such as Logic or Pro Tools to make more professional quality music.\\n1-4. Connect everything up.\\nThis is where most of the genius (and perspiration!) comes in. In general, keep it as simple as possible. For best playback quality run from the sound card into a mixer or amplifier and then to your monitor speakers. For best recording quality, run instruments/mics into a mixer(make sure you are getting a perfect signal) then run from the mixer into the sound card.\\n1-5. Learn how to record a sound from an input line and how to arrange pre-recorded sounds.\\nAlso learn how to turn an arrangement into a .wav or .mp3 file. (After all, eventually we want to make a CD with all this awesome music!)\\n1-6. Select a room in your house.\\nSound-proof it if possible. If not, try to use special carpet or insulation that can at least reduce external noise.\\n1-7. Start writing simple tracks.\\nStart off with a drumbeat. Add a bass line or piano or vocal track. Start mixing. Explore! It's all about experimentation. At the beginning, you don't have to write a masterpiece - just focus on having fun!\\n1-8. If you have trouble with any of the above, pick up a Mixing / Studio Book.\\nIt will help you understand the underlying concepts needed to keep you going for a lifetime.\\nCheck out videos on YouTube to learn simple concepts and how to work your equipment.\\n1-9. Once you've learned the basics, start breaking it down.\\nLay a bunch of tracks together. Experiment with processed effects. Experiment with plugins, loops, new hardware and anything else you can get your hands onto.\\n2. Building a Basic Studio for Recording on a Budget\\n2-1. Obtain a suitable computer, preferably a Mac.\\nIt must be installed in the room you want to create music.\\n2-2. Get an audio interface, mic and sound output.\\nFor a few hundred dollars or pounds, you can pick up the Focusrite Scarlett Studio, with a 2i2 interface, CM25 mic and HP60 headphones.\\n2-3. Plug it in.\\nThe Scarlett Studio comes with all the cables included.\\n2-4. Start your Digital Audio Workstation program.\\nPCs are best with Cubase, Macs with GarageBand or Logic Pro X.\\n2-5. Get a MIDI keyboard .\\nPlug it in.\\n2-6. You have a basic studio.\\nEnjoy!\\nTips\\nThe first few recordings will not sound very professional. No matter what recording software you choose, you will have to play with the quality settings as well as learn to mix your music to achieve the sound you want. The best way to do this would be to purchase good studio speakers (which are called monitors). You'll have to play music, movies and any other media based things through them so that you learn the monitors and get used to how things sound coming through them.\\nRemember, your system is only as strong as the weakest link. When looking to upgrade equipment, work out what the most important piece of equipment is for your system. Is it the sound card, the mic, the software or the computer itself?\\nUse DI boxes where applicable to cut down on noise and interference.\\nWarnings\\nAs with all electrical equipment, exercise caution with live cables, wires, and speakers. Discharge static electricity when necessary.\\nMake sure you turn on the monitor speakers after you turn on everything else. This is to avoid the sudden occurrence of transient noise caused by significant variations in the signal path (like turning on the mixer). Such noise is potentially harmful to your speakers as well as your ears.\\nMake sure the mixer's main line isn't too hot! You'll blow your freaking eardrums out if you're not careful.\\nMake sure you turn off phantom power before you unplug mics. You can ruin the mic and the preamp.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Making and recording music is a fun and rewarding experience. The only prerequisites to this tutorial are having a computer and the willingness to learn. You don't even have to know how to read or play an instrument, most hit producers and film composers don't even know music theory.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Home Studio\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Write a plan of what you want to do.\", \"描述\": \"Do you want to build a recording studio? Is it a singing booth? Is it an engineering booth? Is it for computer-based music production? Knowing what you want before you start can help you decide which equipment you will need. Doing extensive research will help at this stage. Try to find a specialist at PC World, or your local Apple shop, take notes and then find more information on the Internet.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Acquire the appropriate equipment.\", \"描述\": \"This will include such items as amplifiers, microphones, mixers, electric instruments, cables for connecting it all together. A modern computer built or purchased within the past three years should be sufficient. \\nIf possible, acquire a working high-quality soundcard, such as an M-Audio Fast Track Pro or Digidesign Mbox 2 Mini. Creative Labs does have a Pro Music line called EMU. A 1212M PCI system is ideal if you were going to go that route.\\nMonitor speakers are helpful if you are looking to stick with this for more than a hobby. The M-Audio Studiophile BX8a's, KRK RP-8 Rokit work well, and if you've got money to burn, the Mackie HR824 Studio Monitors.\\nIf you're into hip-hop, techno, or dance music, a set of turntables will be needed to record your sets or scratches on the fly. You can also use DJ software such as Traktor or Serato and a USB DJ controller to try out your mixes.\\nA midi keyboard will be useful if you want to use midi software (which you can use to write bass lines, piano parts, and drum beats). Nothing fancy is needed, but each person will have their own preference. There are many advantages to having a midi keyboard because it will give you the tactile feel of a real instrument, which can greatly aid creativity.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Buy or download music-editing software for your PC.\", \"描述\": \"Pro Tools, Cubase, Reason, and FL Studio are popular brands for Windows while Logic is popular with Macs. Macs include a built in music-editing program called GarageBand. Garageband is great for beginners but it will be a good idea to upgrade to more advanced music production software such as Logic or Pro Tools to make more professional quality music.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect everything up.\", \"描述\": \"This is where most of the genius (and perspiration!) comes in. In general, keep it as simple as possible. For best playback quality run from the sound card into a mixer or amplifier and then to your monitor speakers. For best recording quality, run instruments/mics into a mixer(make sure you are getting a perfect signal) then run from the mixer into the sound card.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Learn how to record a sound from an input line and how to arrange pre-recorded sounds.\", \"描述\": \"Also learn how to turn an arrangement into a .wav or .mp3 file. (After all, eventually we want to make a CD with all this awesome music!)\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Select a room in your house.\", \"描述\": \"Sound-proof it if possible. If not, try to use special carpet or insulation that can at least reduce external noise.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Start writing simple tracks.\", \"描述\": \"Start off with a drumbeat. Add a bass line or piano or vocal track. Start mixing. Explore! It's all about experimentation. At the beginning, you don't have to write a masterpiece - just focus on having fun!\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"If you have trouble with any of the above, pick up a Mixing / Studio Book.\", \"描述\": \"It will help you understand the underlying concepts needed to keep you going for a lifetime.\\nCheck out videos on YouTube to learn simple concepts and how to work your equipment.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Once you've learned the basics, start breaking it down.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a bunch of tracks together. Experiment with processed effects. Experiment with plugins, loops, new hardware and anything else you can get your hands onto.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Basic Studio for Recording on a Budget\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtain a suitable computer, preferably a Mac.\", \"描述\": \"It must be installed in the room you want to create music.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get an audio interface, mic and sound output.\", \"描述\": \"For a few hundred dollars or pounds, you can pick up the Focusrite Scarlett Studio, with a 2i2 interface, CM25 mic and HP60 headphones.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plug it in.\", \"描述\": \"The Scarlett Studio comes with all the cables included.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Start your Digital Audio Workstation program.\", \"描述\": \"PCs are best with Cubase, Macs with GarageBand or Logic Pro X.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get a MIDI keyboard .\", \"描述\": \"Plug it in.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"You have a basic studio.\", \"描述\": \"Enjoy!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The first few recordings will not sound very professional. No matter what recording software you choose, you will have to play with the quality settings as well as learn to mix your music to achieve the sound you want. The best way to do this would be to purchase good studio speakers (which are called monitors). You'll have to play music, movies and any other media based things through them so that you learn the monitors and get used to how things sound coming through them.\\n\", \"Remember, your system is only as strong as the weakest link. When looking to upgrade equipment, work out what the most important piece of equipment is for your system. Is it the sound card, the mic, the software or the computer itself?\\n\", \"Use DI boxes where applicable to cut down on noise and interference.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"As with all electrical equipment, exercise caution with live cables, wires, and speakers. Discharge static electricity when necessary.\\n\", \"Make sure you turn on the monitor speakers after you turn on everything else. This is to avoid the sudden occurrence of transient noise caused by significant variations in the signal path (like turning on the mixer). Such noise is potentially harmful to your speakers as well as your ears.\\n\", \"Make sure the mixer's main line isn't too hot! You'll blow your freaking eardrums out if you're not careful.\\n\", \"Make sure you turn off phantom power before you unplug mics. You can ruin the mic and the preamp.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,383
How to Build a Homemade Hydroponics System
1. Making a Simple Wick System 1-1. Cut the top 4 in (10 cm) off of a plastic bottle. Recycle an empty ⁄2 US gal (1.9 L) soda bottle. Start your cut with a pair of scissors or utility knife just above the bottle’s label, or about 4 inches (10 cm) down from the top. Cut around the entire bottle until the top is completely removed. Using a soda bottle will hold 1 plant. If you want to house 10 or fewer plants in a hydroponic garden, consider using a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote instead. 1-2. Poke a hole through the bottle cap using a screwdriver. Set the bottle cap on a hard surface such as a cutting board. Hold the cap by its sides with your non-dominant hand while you punch a hole in the center with a screwdriver. Make the hole about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide. Heat the end of the screwdriver over a candle flame to melt the plastic cap if you have trouble punching through it. If you’re using a plastic tote, use a hole saw attachment for a drill to make 3-4 holes along the middle of the lid. 1-3. Feed a piece of twine through the hole in the cap. Cut a piece of twine with a pair of scissors so it’s about 12 in (30 cm) long. Feed the end of the twine through the top of the bottle cap until you have about 6 in (15 cm) on each side. Once the twine is through the cap, screw it back onto the bottle. If you’re using a larger reservoir, you may use a thicker piece of rope as the wick to transport more water. 1-4. Fill the bottom of the bottle with a nutrient solution. Visit your local gardening store to find a nutrient mix meant for hydroponic gardening. You can use the same solution regardless of what you plant in your system. Fill the bottom of your bottle with about 4  c (950 ml) of tap water. Follow the directions on your nutrient solution to find the amount you need to stir into your water. Once you add the right amount, mix the water with a stir stick. Use store-bought purified water in your container if you have hard tap water. If you can’t find any nutrient mixes in store, order a bottle online. 1-5. Place the top of the bottle upside-down so the twine is mostly submerged. Once you have the nutrient solution mixed together, set the top of the bottle upside-down so the cap faces down. Make sure there’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of twine between the bottle cap and the top of the solution. If you’re using a plastic tote, use a plastic container that’s 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) deep on top of the tote lid. Make sure to drill holes in the new plastic container so they line up with the holes in your tote. 1-6. Put growing medium and your seeds into the top of the bottle. Look for a medium that allows water and nutrients to easily travel through it, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Spread 2 handfuls of the medium in the top portion of the bottle and tamp it lightly with your fingers. After the growing medium is added, you can plant your seeds at the depth specified on their packaging. Each growing medium can be purchased from your local gardening or yardcare store. Any of these growing mediums will work no matter which plants you’re using. The nutrient solution travels up the wick into the growing medium to provide food and water to your plants. Wick systems work great for new hydroponic gardeners and are hands-off, but they cannot support larger plants. Wick systems work best for herbs or lettuce. 2. Building a Deep Water Culture System 2-1. Cut a hole in the lid of a plastic coffee container the same size as a net pot. Net pots have slots so water can easily flow through them. Trace the bottom of your net pot onto the coffee container lid with a pencil or marker. Use a craft knife or a utility knife to cut the hole to size so the pot fits tightly inside the cutout section. Continue to shave the sides away until the rim of the net pot is level with the top of the lid. A coffee container can hold 1 plant. If you want to make a larger hydroponic garden, use a large plastic tote instead with multiple net pots. 2-2. Cut a small X near the edge of the lid for an air tube. Measure in about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edge of the lid and mark the spot with a pen or marker. Push your craft knife through the lid to make a slit. Rotate the lid by 90 degrees and make another slit going through the first one. Make your cut like the hole where you put a straw in on a fast food drink lid. 2-3. Feed 6 in (15 cm) of air tubing through the X. Use ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) tubing in your deep water culture system. Stick the end of the tube through the X-shape you cut until you’ve fed in 6 in (15 cm) or until the tube reaches the bottom of the container. Leave enough tubing on top to reach a bubbler machine, or about 1 ⁄2 feet (46 cm). 2-4. Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with a nutrient solution. Nutrient mixes are sold at gardening stores or online, and any mix will work regardless of what you’re planting. Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with tap water. Follow the directions on the label carefully to mix the right amount of the nutrient liquid for the amount of water you use. Use a stirring stick to combine the nutrients with the water. Put the lid back on your coffee container. If you have hard tap water, use store-bought purified water in your container instead. 2-5. Put growing medium and seeds into the net pot. Fill the pot to the top with either coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Sow the seeds of your plant about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep in your growing medium. Opt for leafy greens or herbs when planting seeds instead of larger plants. Any of the growing mediums will work regardless of the type of plant you’re growing. Seed depth while planting may change depending on the type of plant. Consult with the seed package to see if they need to be planted shallower or deeper. 2-6. Attach the other end of the air tube to a bubbler and turn it on. Bubblers help add oxygen to the solution so your roots don’t drown. Secure the end of your tubing sticking out from the top of the container to the port on the bubbler, and turn it on. Leave the bubbler on the entire time while your plants are growing. The nutrient solution soaks into the growing medium in your pot, providing your plants with constant water and food so they can grow. Deep water nutrient systems are low-maintenance and easy to make at home, but they don’t work well for plants that have a long growing period. Bubblers can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store. Bubblers need to run continuously or else your plants could die. 3. Using the Nutrient Film Technique 3-1. Connect a pump to an air stone on the bottom of the water reservoir. Make a hole 2 in (5.1 cm) down from the top of a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote with a utility knife. Set an air stone in your tote on the same side with the hole and feed the air tube through it. Attach the tubing to an air pump. Air pumps and air stones can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store. 3-2. Set a submersible water pump on the other side of the reservoir. Set the water pump on the opposite side of the tote as the air stone. Cut a hole on the side of the tote that’s 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) down from the top and large enough for the power cable and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) tubing. Feed the tube and the power cord through the hole. Water pumps can be purchased from your local pet store. 3-3. Fill half the reservoir with a nutrient solution. Use about 10 gallons (38 L) of tap or purified water in your tote so your pump and air stone are completely submerged. Any nutrient mix can be used regardless of the plants you’re growing. Add the amount of nutrient liquid listed on the label for the water in your tote. Mix the solution together with a stir stick. Nutrient liquids can be bought from your local garden store or online. 3-4. Slope a rain gutter or PVC pipe between 2 sawhorses to make a channel. Use a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) piece of rain gutter or PVC piping. Attach a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board on top of one of the sawhorses with 2 screws or nails. Space your sawhorses 3 ft (0.91 m) apart so your tote fits between them, and set the piping or rain gutter on top. Make sure the ends of your channel are closed so water doesn’t spill out. 3-5. Cut holes in the top of your channel to fit your pots. Use a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) hole saw attachment for your drill to make holes on the top of your channel. Space each of your plants about 1 ft (30 cm) apart so they have room for the roots to grow. Place 1 net pot in each hole once they’re cut. Your channel should fit about 4-6 plants depending on how long it is. Hole saw attachments can be purchased at your local hardware store. Make sure to choose a hole saw made for the material you’re cutting through. The size of your hole depends on the size of the net pots you plan on using. 3-6. Make a drain hole in the lower end of your channel and the lid of your reservoir. Drill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole in the bottom of the channel about 1–1 ⁄2 in (2.5–3.8 cm) from the edge. Make another 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) hole in the lid of the tote directly underneath the channel drain so the water keeps recycling. You can run a tube between the drain and the lid if you want, but it’s not required. 3-7. Feed the water pump tube into the higher end of your channel. Use a drill or a hole saw to make a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hole in the center of the raised end of your channel. Feed the end of the tube 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) into the channel so it stays in securely. You may also make a hole in the top of your channel if you don’t want to feed in from the side. The size of the hole may depend on how thick your tubing is. 3-8. Fill your pots with growing medium and seeds. Use a hydroponics-friendly growing medium, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Fill each pot so they’re three-quarters full before planting the seeds. Put each seed about ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) deep into the pot. Hydroponic gardening works best for leafy greens or for fresh herbs. 3-9. Plug in the water pump so it constantly runs. Make sure the water pump transfers the nutrient solution through the bottom of the channel without leaking. The solution will flow through the channel and the roots of your plants to provide them with constant nutrients before falling back into your reservoir. The nutrient film technique constantly pumps a thin layer of water through the channel so your plants grow without drowning the roots. Nutrient film systems allow for multiple plants to grow and recirculate water to reduce waste, but the pumps need to constantly run or else your plants may die. Plug the pump into an automatic timer that runs every 2-3 hours if you don’t want the pump constantly running. Tips Wick systems and deep water culture systems require less maintenance and setup as opposed to using the nutrient film technique. Always start small and think about one or two vegetables that you're interested in. Typically, when you start something hydroponic, it will need to be developed enough that there is a root system intact, that can then be placed in your hydroponic environment. Remember that each plant is going to grow a little bit differently and have different needs in terms of nutrients. Do your best to study and figure out what nutrients you need to buy for them to help get you in the right routine of looking out for different indicators from the plant to keep them healthy and thriving.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:41", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Making a Simple Wick System\\n1-1. Cut the top 4 in (10 cm) off of a plastic bottle.\\nRecycle an empty ⁄2 US gal (1.9 L) soda bottle. Start your cut with a pair of scissors or utility knife just above the bottle’s label, or about 4 inches (10 cm) down from the top. Cut around the entire bottle until the top is completely removed.\\nUsing a soda bottle will hold 1 plant. If you want to house 10 or fewer plants in a hydroponic garden, consider using a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote instead.\\n1-2. Poke a hole through the bottle cap using a screwdriver.\\nSet the bottle cap on a hard surface such as a cutting board. Hold the cap by its sides with your non-dominant hand while you punch a hole in the center with a screwdriver. Make the hole about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide.\\nHeat the end of the screwdriver over a candle flame to melt the plastic cap if you have trouble punching through it.\\nIf you’re using a plastic tote, use a hole saw attachment for a drill to make 3-4 holes along the middle of the lid.\\n1-3. Feed a piece of twine through the hole in the cap.\\nCut a piece of twine with a pair of scissors so it’s about 12 in (30 cm) long. Feed the end of the twine through the top of the bottle cap until you have about 6 in (15 cm) on each side. Once the twine is through the cap, screw it back onto the bottle.\\nIf you’re using a larger reservoir, you may use a thicker piece of rope as the wick to transport more water.\\n1-4. Fill the bottom of the bottle with a nutrient solution.\\nVisit your local gardening store to find a nutrient mix meant for hydroponic gardening. You can use the same solution regardless of what you plant in your system. Fill the bottom of your bottle with about 4  c (950 ml) of tap water. Follow the directions on your nutrient solution to find the amount you need to stir into your water. Once you add the right amount, mix the water with a stir stick.\\nUse store-bought purified water in your container if you have hard tap water.\\nIf you can’t find any nutrient mixes in store, order a bottle online.\\n1-5. Place the top of the bottle upside-down so the twine is mostly submerged.\\nOnce you have the nutrient solution mixed together, set the top of the bottle upside-down so the cap faces down. Make sure there’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of twine between the bottle cap and the top of the solution.\\nIf you’re using a plastic tote, use a plastic container that’s 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) deep on top of the tote lid. Make sure to drill holes in the new plastic container so they line up with the holes in your tote.\\n1-6. Put growing medium and your seeds into the top of the bottle.\\nLook for a medium that allows water and nutrients to easily travel through it, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Spread 2 handfuls of the medium in the top portion of the bottle and tamp it lightly with your fingers. After the growing medium is added, you can plant your seeds at the depth specified on their packaging.\\nEach growing medium can be purchased from your local gardening or yardcare store. Any of these growing mediums will work no matter which plants you’re using.\\nThe nutrient solution travels up the wick into the growing medium to provide food and water to your plants.\\nWick systems work great for new hydroponic gardeners and are hands-off, but they cannot support larger plants. Wick systems work best for herbs or lettuce.\\n2. Building a Deep Water Culture System\\n2-1. Cut a hole in the lid of a plastic coffee container the same size as a net pot.\\nNet pots have slots so water can easily flow through them. Trace the bottom of your net pot onto the coffee container lid with a pencil or marker. Use a craft knife or a utility knife to cut the hole to size so the pot fits tightly inside the cutout section. Continue to shave the sides away until the rim of the net pot is level with the top of the lid.\\nA coffee container can hold 1 plant. If you want to make a larger hydroponic garden, use a large plastic tote instead with multiple net pots.\\n2-2. Cut a small X near the edge of the lid for an air tube.\\nMeasure in about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edge of the lid and mark the spot with a pen or marker. Push your craft knife through the lid to make a slit. Rotate the lid by 90 degrees and make another slit going through the first one.\\nMake your cut like the hole where you put a straw in on a fast food drink lid.\\n2-3. Feed 6 in (15 cm) of air tubing through the X.\\nUse ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) tubing in your deep water culture system. Stick the end of the tube through the X-shape you cut until you’ve fed in 6 in (15 cm) or until the tube reaches the bottom of the container. Leave enough tubing on top to reach a bubbler machine, or about 1 ⁄2 feet (46 cm).\\n2-4. Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with a nutrient solution.\\nNutrient mixes are sold at gardening stores or online, and any mix will work regardless of what you’re planting. Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with tap water. Follow the directions on the label carefully to mix the right amount of the nutrient liquid for the amount of water you use. Use a stirring stick to combine the nutrients with the water. Put the lid back on your coffee container.\\nIf you have hard tap water, use store-bought purified water in your container instead.\\n2-5. Put growing medium and seeds into the net pot.\\nFill the pot to the top with either coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Sow the seeds of your plant about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep in your growing medium.\\nOpt for leafy greens or herbs when planting seeds instead of larger plants.\\nAny of the growing mediums will work regardless of the type of plant you’re growing.\\nSeed depth while planting may change depending on the type of plant. Consult with the seed package to see if they need to be planted shallower or deeper.\\n2-6. Attach the other end of the air tube to a bubbler and turn it on.\\nBubblers help add oxygen to the solution so your roots don’t drown. Secure the end of your tubing sticking out from the top of the container to the port on the bubbler, and turn it on. Leave the bubbler on the entire time while your plants are growing.\\nThe nutrient solution soaks into the growing medium in your pot, providing your plants with constant water and food so they can grow.\\nDeep water nutrient systems are low-maintenance and easy to make at home, but they don’t work well for plants that have a long growing period.\\nBubblers can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store.\\nBubblers need to run continuously or else your plants could die.\\n3. Using the Nutrient Film Technique\\n3-1. Connect a pump to an air stone on the bottom of the water reservoir.\\nMake a hole 2 in (5.1 cm) down from the top of a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote with a utility knife. Set an air stone in your tote on the same side with the hole and feed the air tube through it. Attach the tubing to an air pump.\\nAir pumps and air stones can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store.\\n3-2. Set a submersible water pump on the other side of the reservoir.\\nSet the water pump on the opposite side of the tote as the air stone. Cut a hole on the side of the tote that’s 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) down from the top and large enough for the power cable and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) tubing. Feed the tube and the power cord through the hole.\\nWater pumps can be purchased from your local pet store.\\n3-3. Fill half the reservoir with a nutrient solution.\\nUse about 10 gallons (38 L) of tap or purified water in your tote so your pump and air stone are completely submerged. Any nutrient mix can be used regardless of the plants you’re growing. Add the amount of nutrient liquid listed on the label for the water in your tote. Mix the solution together with a stir stick.\\nNutrient liquids can be bought from your local garden store or online.\\n3-4. Slope a rain gutter or PVC pipe between 2 sawhorses to make a channel.\\nUse a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) piece of rain gutter or PVC piping. Attach a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board on top of one of the sawhorses with 2 screws or nails. Space your sawhorses 3 ft (0.91 m) apart so your tote fits between them, and set the piping or rain gutter on top.\\nMake sure the ends of your channel are closed so water doesn’t spill out.\\n3-5. Cut holes in the top of your channel to fit your pots.\\nUse a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) hole saw attachment for your drill to make holes on the top of your channel. Space each of your plants about 1 ft (30 cm) apart so they have room for the roots to grow. Place 1 net pot in each hole once they’re cut.\\nYour channel should fit about 4-6 plants depending on how long it is.\\nHole saw attachments can be purchased at your local hardware store. Make sure to choose a hole saw made for the material you’re cutting through.\\nThe size of your hole depends on the size of the net pots you plan on using.\\n3-6. Make a drain hole in the lower end of your channel and the lid of your reservoir.\\nDrill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole in the bottom of the channel about 1–1 ⁄2 in (2.5–3.8 cm) from the edge. Make another 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) hole in the lid of the tote directly underneath the channel drain so the water keeps recycling.\\nYou can run a tube between the drain and the lid if you want, but it’s not required.\\n3-7. Feed the water pump tube into the higher end of your channel.\\nUse a drill or a hole saw to make a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hole in the center of the raised end of your channel. Feed the end of the tube 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) into the channel so it stays in securely.\\nYou may also make a hole in the top of your channel if you don’t want to feed in from the side.\\nThe size of the hole may depend on how thick your tubing is.\\n3-8. Fill your pots with growing medium and seeds.\\nUse a hydroponics-friendly growing medium, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Fill each pot so they’re three-quarters full before planting the seeds. Put each seed about ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) deep into the pot.\\nHydroponic gardening works best for leafy greens or for fresh herbs.\\n3-9. Plug in the water pump so it constantly runs.\\nMake sure the water pump transfers the nutrient solution through the bottom of the channel without leaking. The solution will flow through the channel and the roots of your plants to provide them with constant nutrients before falling back into your reservoir.\\nThe nutrient film technique constantly pumps a thin layer of water through the channel so your plants grow without drowning the roots.\\nNutrient film systems allow for multiple plants to grow and recirculate water to reduce waste, but the pumps need to constantly run or else your plants may die.\\nPlug the pump into an automatic timer that runs every 2-3 hours if you don’t want the pump constantly running.\\nTips\\nWick systems and deep water culture systems require less maintenance and setup as opposed to using the nutrient film technique.\\nAlways start small and think about one or two vegetables that you're interested in. Typically, when you start something hydroponic, it will need to be developed enough that there is a root system intact, that can then be placed in your hydroponic environment.\\nRemember that each plant is going to grow a little bit differently and have different needs in terms of nutrients. Do your best to study and figure out what nutrients you need to buy for them to help get you in the right routine of looking out for different indicators from the plant to keep them healthy and thriving.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hydroponic gardening involves growing plants in a water and nutrient solution without using any soil. Hydroponic gardens are easy to start in your own home so you can grow throughout the year. There are many different styles of gardens you can build, the most common being wick systems, deep water cultures, and nutrient film techniques. With a simple build, you can easily have a garden in your home!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Making a Simple Wick System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the top 4 in (10 cm) off of a plastic bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Recycle an empty ⁄2 US gal (1.9 L) soda bottle. Start your cut with a pair of scissors or utility knife just above the bottle’s label, or about 4 inches (10 cm) down from the top. Cut around the entire bottle until the top is completely removed.\\nUsing a soda bottle will hold 1 plant. If you want to house 10 or fewer plants in a hydroponic garden, consider using a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Poke a hole through the bottle cap using a screwdriver.\", \"描述\": \"Set the bottle cap on a hard surface such as a cutting board. Hold the cap by its sides with your non-dominant hand while you punch a hole in the center with a screwdriver. Make the hole about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide.\\nHeat the end of the screwdriver over a candle flame to melt the plastic cap if you have trouble punching through it.\\nIf you’re using a plastic tote, use a hole saw attachment for a drill to make 3-4 holes along the middle of the lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed a piece of twine through the hole in the cap.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of twine with a pair of scissors so it’s about 12 in (30 cm) long. Feed the end of the twine through the top of the bottle cap until you have about 6 in (15 cm) on each side. Once the twine is through the cap, screw it back onto the bottle.\\nIf you’re using a larger reservoir, you may use a thicker piece of rope as the wick to transport more water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottom of the bottle with a nutrient solution.\", \"描述\": \"Visit your local gardening store to find a nutrient mix meant for hydroponic gardening. You can use the same solution regardless of what you plant in your system. Fill the bottom of your bottle with about 4  c (950 ml) of tap water. Follow the directions on your nutrient solution to find the amount you need to stir into your water. Once you add the right amount, mix the water with a stir stick.\\nUse store-bought purified water in your container if you have hard tap water.\\nIf you can’t find any nutrient mixes in store, order a bottle online.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the top of the bottle upside-down so the twine is mostly submerged.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have the nutrient solution mixed together, set the top of the bottle upside-down so the cap faces down. Make sure there’s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of twine between the bottle cap and the top of the solution.\\nIf you’re using a plastic tote, use a plastic container that’s 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) deep on top of the tote lid. Make sure to drill holes in the new plastic container so they line up with the holes in your tote.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Put growing medium and your seeds into the top of the bottle.\", \"描述\": \"Look for a medium that allows water and nutrients to easily travel through it, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Spread 2 handfuls of the medium in the top portion of the bottle and tamp it lightly with your fingers. After the growing medium is added, you can plant your seeds at the depth specified on their packaging.\\nEach growing medium can be purchased from your local gardening or yardcare store. Any of these growing mediums will work no matter which plants you’re using.\\nThe nutrient solution travels up the wick into the growing medium to provide food and water to your plants.\\nWick systems work great for new hydroponic gardeners and are hands-off, but they cannot support larger plants. Wick systems work best for herbs or lettuce.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Deep Water Culture System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut a hole in the lid of a plastic coffee container the same size as a net pot.\", \"描述\": \"Net pots have slots so water can easily flow through them. Trace the bottom of your net pot onto the coffee container lid with a pencil or marker. Use a craft knife or a utility knife to cut the hole to size so the pot fits tightly inside the cutout section. Continue to shave the sides away until the rim of the net pot is level with the top of the lid.\\nA coffee container can hold 1 plant. If you want to make a larger hydroponic garden, use a large plastic tote instead with multiple net pots.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut a small X near the edge of the lid for an air tube.\", \"描述\": \"Measure in about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edge of the lid and mark the spot with a pen or marker. Push your craft knife through the lid to make a slit. Rotate the lid by 90 degrees and make another slit going through the first one.\\nMake your cut like the hole where you put a straw in on a fast food drink lid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Feed 6 in (15 cm) of air tubing through the X.\", \"描述\": \"Use ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) tubing in your deep water culture system. Stick the end of the tube through the X-shape you cut until you’ve fed in 6 in (15 cm) or until the tube reaches the bottom of the container. Leave enough tubing on top to reach a bubbler machine, or about 1 ⁄2 feet (46 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with a nutrient solution.\", \"描述\": \"Nutrient mixes are sold at gardening stores or online, and any mix will work regardless of what you’re planting. Fill the coffee container three-quarters full with tap water. Follow the directions on the label carefully to mix the right amount of the nutrient liquid for the amount of water you use. Use a stirring stick to combine the nutrients with the water. Put the lid back on your coffee container.\\nIf you have hard tap water, use store-bought purified water in your container instead.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put growing medium and seeds into the net pot.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the pot to the top with either coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Sow the seeds of your plant about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) deep in your growing medium.\\nOpt for leafy greens or herbs when planting seeds instead of larger plants.\\nAny of the growing mediums will work regardless of the type of plant you’re growing.\\nSeed depth while planting may change depending on the type of plant. Consult with the seed package to see if they need to be planted shallower or deeper.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the other end of the air tube to a bubbler and turn it on.\", \"描述\": \"Bubblers help add oxygen to the solution so your roots don’t drown. Secure the end of your tubing sticking out from the top of the container to the port on the bubbler, and turn it on. Leave the bubbler on the entire time while your plants are growing.\\nThe nutrient solution soaks into the growing medium in your pot, providing your plants with constant water and food so they can grow.\\nDeep water nutrient systems are low-maintenance and easy to make at home, but they don’t work well for plants that have a long growing period.\\nBubblers can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store.\\nBubblers need to run continuously or else your plants could die.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Using the Nutrient Film Technique\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Connect a pump to an air stone on the bottom of the water reservoir.\", \"描述\": \"Make a hole 2 in (5.1 cm) down from the top of a 20 US gal (76 L) plastic tote with a utility knife. Set an air stone in your tote on the same side with the hole and feed the air tube through it. Attach the tubing to an air pump.\\nAir pumps and air stones can be purchased from your local pet or aquarium store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set a submersible water pump on the other side of the reservoir.\", \"描述\": \"Set the water pump on the opposite side of the tote as the air stone. Cut a hole on the side of the tote that’s 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) down from the top and large enough for the power cable and ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) tubing. Feed the tube and the power cord through the hole.\\nWater pumps can be purchased from your local pet store.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill half the reservoir with a nutrient solution.\", \"描述\": \"Use about 10 gallons (38 L) of tap or purified water in your tote so your pump and air stone are completely submerged. Any nutrient mix can be used regardless of the plants you’re growing. Add the amount of nutrient liquid listed on the label for the water in your tote. Mix the solution together with a stir stick.\\nNutrient liquids can be bought from your local garden store or online.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Slope a rain gutter or PVC pipe between 2 sawhorses to make a channel.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 4–6 ft (1.2–1.8 m) piece of rain gutter or PVC piping. Attach a 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board on top of one of the sawhorses with 2 screws or nails. Space your sawhorses 3 ft (0.91 m) apart so your tote fits between them, and set the piping or rain gutter on top.\\nMake sure the ends of your channel are closed so water doesn’t spill out.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut holes in the top of your channel to fit your pots.\", \"描述\": \"Use a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) hole saw attachment for your drill to make holes on the top of your channel. Space each of your plants about 1 ft (30 cm) apart so they have room for the roots to grow. Place 1 net pot in each hole once they’re cut.\\nYour channel should fit about 4-6 plants depending on how long it is.\\nHole saw attachments can be purchased at your local hardware store. Make sure to choose a hole saw made for the material you’re cutting through.\\nThe size of your hole depends on the size of the net pots you plan on using.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Make a drain hole in the lower end of your channel and the lid of your reservoir.\", \"描述\": \"Drill a 1 in (2.5 cm) hole in the bottom of the channel about 1–1 ⁄2 in (2.5–3.8 cm) from the edge. Make another 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) hole in the lid of the tote directly underneath the channel drain so the water keeps recycling.\\nYou can run a tube between the drain and the lid if you want, but it’s not required.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Feed the water pump tube into the higher end of your channel.\", \"描述\": \"Use a drill or a hole saw to make a ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) hole in the center of the raised end of your channel. Feed the end of the tube 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) into the channel so it stays in securely.\\nYou may also make a hole in the top of your channel if you don’t want to feed in from the side.\\nThe size of the hole may depend on how thick your tubing is.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fill your pots with growing medium and seeds.\", \"描述\": \"Use a hydroponics-friendly growing medium, such as perlite, coconut coir, or vermiculite. Fill each pot so they’re three-quarters full before planting the seeds. Put each seed about ⁄4–⁄2 in (0.64–1.27 cm) deep into the pot.\\nHydroponic gardening works best for leafy greens or for fresh herbs.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Plug in the water pump so it constantly runs.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the water pump transfers the nutrient solution through the bottom of the channel without leaking. The solution will flow through the channel and the roots of your plants to provide them with constant nutrients before falling back into your reservoir.\\nThe nutrient film technique constantly pumps a thin layer of water through the channel so your plants grow without drowning the roots.\\nNutrient film systems allow for multiple plants to grow and recirculate water to reduce waste, but the pumps need to constantly run or else your plants may die.\\nPlug the pump into an automatic timer that runs every 2-3 hours if you don’t want the pump constantly running.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Wick systems and deep water culture systems require less maintenance and setup as opposed to using the nutrient film technique.\\n\", \"Always start small and think about one or two vegetables that you're interested in. Typically, when you start something hydroponic, it will need to be developed enough that there is a root system intact, that can then be placed in your hydroponic environment.\\n\", \"Remember that each plant is going to grow a little bit differently and have different needs in terms of nutrients. Do your best to study and figure out what nutrients you need to buy for them to help get you in the right routine of looking out for different indicators from the plant to keep them healthy and thriving.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,384
How to Build a Homemade Rube Goldberg Machine
1. Preparing for the Assignment or Competition 1-1. Understand the rules. If you’re building a Rube Goldberg machine for a class or official competition, you will get a packet of information and rules. Before you plan or build your machine, read through this material carefully. While you read, identify the goal, requirements, and restrictions. If the material is unclear, ask your teacher, parent, or an official to clarify. If you don’t follow the rules, you may get a poor grade or be disqualified from the competition. 1-2. Select a basic task for your machine to accomplish. Rube Goldberg machines are complex structures that rely on chain reactions to execute one simple task. Before you design your machine, determine what you want the machine to do. If you are competing in a Rube Goldberg competition or completing an assignment for school, you may not have the freedom to choose this task. If can pick, consider some of the following options: Open or close a door Turn on a light Turn off an alarm Pour a bowl of cereal Turn on a faucet 1-3. Look for inspiration. Developing a zany, complex machine is not an easy task. Before you create your own Rube Goldberg machine, you may find it helpful to see some examples. While you should use these examples as a source of inspiration and direction, do not copy someone else’s machine. Instead of replicating these machines, make it your goal to improve, alter, or modernize them. Potential sources of inspiration include: Rube Goldberg’s original cartoons Rube Goldberg Competition submissions YouTube videos of functioning Rube Goldberg machines 2. Designing Your Machine 2-1. Collect your materials. Rube Goldberg machines transform traditional building materials, everyday items, and unique objects into functional pieces of equipment that work together to execute a simple task. Spend time gathering items from around your house, purchasing materials from stores, and/or hunting for unique objects at flea markets. Possible building materials include: Dominos Wooden boards Toilet paper rolls CDs or floppy discs Fans Toy cars Skateboards Action figures PVC pipe Duct Tape Peg boards Zip Ties Magnets Marbles String Get creative! 2-2. Experiment with the materials. Lay out all of your materials on your work surface. Once you’re organized, start playing with the items. As you experiment, combine the materials in unexpected ways to form chain reactions. While you work, keep a record of what combinations worked. Ask yourself questions throughout the process. What object can you use to send a car down a wooden ramp? What materials will you need to make a pendulum? What can you make with a lever, a marble, and an action figure? 2-3. Develop a building plan. Rube Goldberg machines complete a simple task with a complex chain reaction. You can break down the chain reaction into several different steps, or phases. The steps are connected together by a link. When you design the machine, it is helpful to start with the last step and work your way to the first step. You can create the building plan by listing these steps or drawing the machine. For example: Task: Pop a balloon. Step 3: A tack will pop the balloon. The tack will be attached to the front of a toy car. Link 1: The toy car will slide down a wooden ramp. Step 2: A pendulum will swing into the car and push it down the wooden ramp. Step 1: I will send the pendulum towards the car at the top of the wooden ramp. 2-4. Build a prototype. Sit down at your workspace with your notes and building plan. Quickly construct a prototype of your Rube Goldberg machine. This version of your machine doesn’t have to be perfect. You’ll build a final product later after you test it. If you run into an issue, don’t panic. Return to your notes and see if you can combine the materials in a different way. If you are using tools, ask an adult for help. 3. Testing and Revising Your Machine 3-1. Test your machine for feasibility. Once your prototype is complete, test the machine. This first test is to determine if your machine works. If the machine completes the task, proceed to the next step. If the machine doesn’t complete the task, rethink—don’t scrap—your design. Can you quickly fix the problem? Do you need to replace an entire step? Are you using the best materials? Is your task possible to achieve? 3-2. Build your final product and test its repeatability. When your machine has passed the feasibility test, you can construct a sturdier version of your Rube Goldberg machine. Assess the machine’s repeatability—its ability to complete the task several times in a row. A test is successful if the machine operates on its own. Test and adjust the machine until it completes the task five times. If the test is successful, make minor alterations and continue on to the final test. If you the machine doesn’t produce five successful tests within an hour, redesign your machine. What steps are working? What steps are preventing the machine from working? Is your task achievable? 3-3. Test the machine’s reliability. After your machine passes the repeatability test, determine if it is reliable. You will test the machine a total of four times. A reliable machine will complete the task at least three out of four times. If your machine passes this test, you’ve created a working Rube Goldberg machine. Before you present the machine, practice taking it apart and putting it back together several times. Tips Use materials that you can easily adjust, like peg boards, building blocks, etc. Before you construct your entire machine, you may want to test each step and link. Warnings Be cautious and work under adult supervision if you are using potentially dangerous items.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing for the Assignment or Competition\\n1-1. Understand the rules.\\nIf you’re building a Rube Goldberg machine for a class or official competition, you will get a packet of information and rules. Before you plan or build your machine, read through this material carefully. While you read, identify the goal, requirements, and restrictions.\\nIf the material is unclear, ask your teacher, parent, or an official to clarify.\\nIf you don’t follow the rules, you may get a poor grade or be disqualified from the competition.\\n1-2. Select a basic task for your machine to accomplish.\\nRube Goldberg machines are complex structures that rely on chain reactions to execute one simple task. Before you design your machine, determine what you want the machine to do. If you are competing in a Rube Goldberg competition or completing an assignment for school, you may not have the freedom to choose this task. If can pick, consider some of the following options:\\nOpen or close a door\\nTurn on a light\\nTurn off an alarm\\nPour a bowl of cereal\\nTurn on a faucet\\n1-3. Look for inspiration.\\nDeveloping a zany, complex machine is not an easy task. Before you create your own Rube Goldberg machine, you may find it helpful to see some examples. While you should use these examples as a source of inspiration and direction, do not copy someone else’s machine. Instead of replicating these machines, make it your goal to improve, alter, or modernize them. Potential sources of inspiration include:\\nRube Goldberg’s original cartoons\\nRube Goldberg Competition submissions\\nYouTube videos of functioning Rube Goldberg machines\\n2. Designing Your Machine\\n2-1. Collect your materials.\\nRube Goldberg machines transform traditional building materials, everyday items, and unique objects into functional pieces of equipment that work together to execute a simple task. Spend time gathering items from around your house, purchasing materials from stores, and/or hunting for unique objects at flea markets. Possible building materials include:\\nDominos\\nWooden boards\\nToilet paper rolls\\nCDs or floppy discs\\nFans\\nToy cars\\nSkateboards\\nAction figures\\nPVC pipe\\nDuct Tape\\nPeg boards\\nZip Ties\\nMagnets\\nMarbles\\nString\\nGet creative!\\n2-2. Experiment with the materials.\\nLay out all of your materials on your work surface. Once you’re organized, start playing with the items. As you experiment, combine the materials in unexpected ways to form chain reactions. While you work, keep a record of what combinations worked.\\nAsk yourself questions throughout the process. What object can you use to send a car down a wooden ramp? What materials will you need to make a pendulum? What can you make with a lever, a marble, and an action figure?\\n2-3. Develop a building plan.\\nRube Goldberg machines complete a simple task with a complex chain reaction. You can break down the chain reaction into several different steps, or phases. The steps are connected together by a link. When you design the machine, it is helpful to start with the last step and work your way to the first step. You can create the building plan by listing these steps or drawing the machine. For example:\\nTask: Pop a balloon.\\nStep 3: A tack will pop the balloon. The tack will be attached to the front of a toy car.\\nLink 1: The toy car will slide down a wooden ramp.\\nStep 2: A pendulum will swing into the car and push it down the wooden ramp.\\nStep 1: I will send the pendulum towards the car at the top of the wooden ramp.\\n2-4. Build a prototype.\\nSit down at your workspace with your notes and building plan. Quickly construct a prototype of your Rube Goldberg machine. This version of your machine doesn’t have to be perfect. You’ll build a final product later after you test it.\\nIf you run into an issue, don’t panic. Return to your notes and see if you can combine the materials in a different way.\\nIf you are using tools, ask an adult for help.\\n3. Testing and Revising Your Machine\\n3-1. Test your machine for feasibility.\\nOnce your prototype is complete, test the machine. This first test is to determine if your machine works. If the machine completes the task, proceed to the next step. If the machine doesn’t complete the task, rethink—don’t scrap—your design.\\nCan you quickly fix the problem?\\nDo you need to replace an entire step?\\nAre you using the best materials?\\nIs your task possible to achieve?\\n3-2. Build your final product and test its repeatability.\\nWhen your machine has passed the feasibility test, you can construct a sturdier version of your Rube Goldberg machine. Assess the machine’s repeatability—its ability to complete the task several times in a row. A test is successful if the machine operates on its own. Test and adjust the machine until it completes the task five times. If the test is successful, make minor alterations and continue on to the final test. If you the machine doesn’t produce five successful tests within an hour, redesign your machine.\\nWhat steps are working?\\nWhat steps are preventing the machine from working?\\nIs your task achievable?\\n3-3. Test the machine’s reliability.\\nAfter your machine passes the repeatability test, determine if it is reliable. You will test the machine a total of four times. A reliable machine will complete the task at least three out of four times. If your machine passes this test, you’ve created a working Rube Goldberg machine.\\nBefore you present the machine, practice taking it apart and putting it back together several times.\\nTips\\nUse materials that you can easily adjust, like peg boards, building blocks, etc.\\nBefore you construct your entire machine, you may want to test each step and link.\\nWarnings\\nBe cautious and work under adult supervision if you are using potentially dangerous items.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Rube Goldberg (1883-1970) was a scientist and cartoonist who produced satirical work on people’s overly complex problem solving methods. In his comical cartoons, he linked together chain reactions with simple machines to complete basic tasks, like turning on a lamp or frying an egg. Designing and building a Rube Goldberg machine requires innovation and patience. While every machine is different, many builders include versions of other people's ideas, tweaking them or linking them in exciting ways.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing for the Assignment or Competition\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the rules.\", \"描述\": \"If you’re building a Rube Goldberg machine for a class or official competition, you will get a packet of information and rules. Before you plan or build your machine, read through this material carefully. While you read, identify the goal, requirements, and restrictions.\\nIf the material is unclear, ask your teacher, parent, or an official to clarify.\\nIf you don’t follow the rules, you may get a poor grade or be disqualified from the competition.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select a basic task for your machine to accomplish.\", \"描述\": \"Rube Goldberg machines are complex structures that rely on chain reactions to execute one simple task. Before you design your machine, determine what you want the machine to do. If you are competing in a Rube Goldberg competition or completing an assignment for school, you may not have the freedom to choose this task. If can pick, consider some of the following options:\\nOpen or close a door\\nTurn on a light\\nTurn off an alarm\\nPour a bowl of cereal\\nTurn on a faucet\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for inspiration.\", \"描述\": \"Developing a zany, complex machine is not an easy task. Before you create your own Rube Goldberg machine, you may find it helpful to see some examples. While you should use these examples as a source of inspiration and direction, do not copy someone else’s machine. Instead of replicating these machines, make it your goal to improve, alter, or modernize them. Potential sources of inspiration include:\\nRube Goldberg’s original cartoons\\nRube Goldberg Competition submissions\\nYouTube videos of functioning Rube Goldberg machines\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Machine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Collect your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Rube Goldberg machines transform traditional building materials, everyday items, and unique objects into functional pieces of equipment that work together to execute a simple task. Spend time gathering items from around your house, purchasing materials from stores, and/or hunting for unique objects at flea markets. Possible building materials include:\\nDominos\\nWooden boards\\nToilet paper rolls\\nCDs or floppy discs\\nFans\\nToy cars\\nSkateboards\\nAction figures\\nPVC pipe\\nDuct Tape\\nPeg boards\\nZip Ties\\nMagnets\\nMarbles\\nString\\nGet creative!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Experiment with the materials.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out all of your materials on your work surface. Once you’re organized, start playing with the items. As you experiment, combine the materials in unexpected ways to form chain reactions. While you work, keep a record of what combinations worked.\\nAsk yourself questions throughout the process. What object can you use to send a car down a wooden ramp? What materials will you need to make a pendulum? What can you make with a lever, a marble, and an action figure?\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Develop a building plan.\", \"描述\": \"Rube Goldberg machines complete a simple task with a complex chain reaction. You can break down the chain reaction into several different steps, or phases. The steps are connected together by a link. When you design the machine, it is helpful to start with the last step and work your way to the first step. You can create the building plan by listing these steps or drawing the machine. For example:\\nTask: Pop a balloon.\\nStep 3: A tack will pop the balloon. The tack will be attached to the front of a toy car.\\nLink 1: The toy car will slide down a wooden ramp.\\nStep 2: A pendulum will swing into the car and push it down the wooden ramp.\\nStep 1: I will send the pendulum towards the car at the top of the wooden ramp.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build a prototype.\", \"描述\": \"Sit down at your workspace with your notes and building plan. Quickly construct a prototype of your Rube Goldberg machine. This version of your machine doesn’t have to be perfect. You’ll build a final product later after you test it.\\nIf you run into an issue, don’t panic. Return to your notes and see if you can combine the materials in a different way.\\nIf you are using tools, ask an adult for help.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Testing and Revising Your Machine\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Test your machine for feasibility.\", \"描述\": \"Once your prototype is complete, test the machine. This first test is to determine if your machine works. If the machine completes the task, proceed to the next step. If the machine doesn’t complete the task, rethink—don’t scrap—your design.\\nCan you quickly fix the problem?\\nDo you need to replace an entire step?\\nAre you using the best materials?\\nIs your task possible to achieve?\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build your final product and test its repeatability.\", \"描述\": \"When your machine has passed the feasibility test, you can construct a sturdier version of your Rube Goldberg machine. Assess the machine’s repeatability—its ability to complete the task several times in a row. A test is successful if the machine operates on its own. Test and adjust the machine until it completes the task five times. If the test is successful, make minor alterations and continue on to the final test. If you the machine doesn’t produce five successful tests within an hour, redesign your machine.\\nWhat steps are working?\\nWhat steps are preventing the machine from working?\\nIs your task achievable?\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Test the machine’s reliability.\", \"描述\": \"After your machine passes the repeatability test, determine if it is reliable. You will test the machine a total of four times. A reliable machine will complete the task at least three out of four times. If your machine passes this test, you’ve created a working Rube Goldberg machine.\\nBefore you present the machine, practice taking it apart and putting it back together several times.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use materials that you can easily adjust, like peg boards, building blocks, etc.\\n\", \"Before you construct your entire machine, you may want to test each step and link.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be cautious and work under adult supervision if you are using potentially dangerous items.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,385
How to Build a Horse Stable in Minecraft
1. Building a Horse Stable 1-1. Gather your materials. For your stable, you’ll be needing wood, and quite a lot of it! In total, you’ll need 23 fences, 21 wood blocks, 30 wood planks, 29 wood slabs, 12 cobblestone, stone or stone bricks, and 8 torches. You can use any combination of wood types for your materials. You want to create a really vibrant-looking stable! 1-2. Lay out the posts. First, create a stack 3 blocks high with your wood blocks. Now, with three spaces away from it, create another stack of the same height. Make two more until it becomes a box formation, around 5x5 blocks wide. From the top, it should look something like this: w = wood X = empty w X X X w X X X X X X X X X X X X w X X X w 1-3. Fence it in. Now, on three of the four sides, place wood planks across the space between the pillar, then place slabs over the planks. This is to prevent the horse from climbing up on your fence. Now place fences on top of the planks, and then on the topmost pillar, place more planks to completely seal the room. On the opening, place fence posts up to the very top in front of the posts by the opening, then place a pair of two-block-high stack of fences in the entrance gap, and close it off by connecting another fence between them. p = planks f = fence s = slab First layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w f X f w f f X f f Second layer w s s s w s X X X s s X X X s s X X X s w f X f w f f X f f Third layer w X X X w f X X X f f X X X f f X X X f w X X X w f X X X f Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w X X X w f f X f f With this design, you wouldn’t need to build fence gates to keep your horse inside, because it tricks the horse into thinking the space is too narrow to go through while actually having ample space to go through! 1-4. Add the roof. From the fence pillar to the back of your stable, place your slabs surrounding the walls, then fill in the remaining space in the middle with wood blocks. Now, between the opening’s wood posts, place two slabs below the wood block roof to create a sort of extrusion on the opening. Roof layer s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w s s s w f X X X f 2. Decorating the Stable 2-1. Place four torches on the walls inside the stable. This is so your horse won’t have some unwelcome visitors spawning in there. Monsters tend to spawn in very dark places, or during the night, so even just placing one torch would ward away the monsters, but more would ward them off for longer distances. 2-2. Replace the dirt floor of your stable with some nice, clean stone. While it only serves to make things look nice, your horse stable would look better and more well-kept with stone flooring. 2-3. Make a wooden entrance flooring. You can use your remaining wood blocks for this. Dig out the row of dirt from under your fence posts and the area between it, then place two upright wood blocks below the fences. Place the rest of your wood sideways until the ends meet so that it looks like a flat log. There you have it! A nice entranceway for your stable! Tips You can also add some hay bales inside the stable for decoration. A cauldron would make an excellent water trough for your horse. Just remember to fill it with water. This design can be converted into a larger stable building, since the pattern can easily be reproduced by simply using the side walls as separators for stalls and building more stalls that way.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Horse Stable\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nFor your stable, you’ll be needing wood, and quite a lot of it! In total, you’ll need 23 fences, 21 wood blocks, 30 wood planks, 29 wood slabs, 12 cobblestone, stone or stone bricks, and 8 torches.\\nYou can use any combination of wood types for your materials. You want to create a really vibrant-looking stable!\\n1-2. Lay out the posts.\\nFirst, create a stack 3 blocks high with your wood blocks. Now, with three spaces away from it, create another stack of the same height. Make two more until it becomes a box formation, around 5x5 blocks wide.\\nFrom the top, it should look something like this: w = wood X = empty w X X X w X X X X X X X X X X X X w X X X w\\n1-3. Fence it in.\\nNow, on three of the four sides, place wood planks across the space between the pillar, then place slabs over the planks. This is to prevent the horse from climbing up on your fence. Now place fences on top of the planks, and then on the topmost pillar, place more planks to completely seal the room.\\nOn the opening, place fence posts up to the very top in front of the posts by the opening, then place a pair of two-block-high stack of fences in the entrance gap, and close it off by connecting another fence between them. p = planks f = fence s = slab First layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w f X f w f f X f f Second layer w s s s w s X X X s s X X X s s X X X s w f X f w f f X f f Third layer w X X X w f X X X f f X X X f f X X X f w X X X w f X X X f Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w X X X w f f X f f\\nWith this design, you wouldn’t need to build fence gates to keep your horse inside, because it tricks the horse into thinking the space is too narrow to go through while actually having ample space to go through!\\n1-4. Add the roof.\\nFrom the fence pillar to the back of your stable, place your slabs surrounding the walls, then fill in the remaining space in the middle with wood blocks. \\nNow, between the opening’s wood posts, place two slabs below the wood block roof to create a sort of extrusion on the opening. Roof layer s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w s s s w f X X X f\\n2. Decorating the Stable\\n2-1. Place four torches on the walls inside the stable.\\nThis is so your horse won’t have some unwelcome visitors spawning in there. Monsters tend to spawn in very dark places, or during the night, so even just placing one torch would ward away the monsters, but more would ward them off for longer distances.\\n2-2. Replace the dirt floor of your stable with some nice, clean stone.\\nWhile it only serves to make things look nice, your horse stable would look better and more well-kept with stone flooring.\\n2-3. Make a wooden entrance flooring.\\nYou can use your remaining wood blocks for this. Dig out the row of dirt from under your fence posts and the area between it, then place two upright wood blocks below the fences. Place the rest of your wood sideways until the ends meet so that it looks like a flat log. There you have it! A nice entranceway for your stable!\\nTips\\nYou can also add some hay bales inside the stable for decoration.\\nA cauldron would make an excellent water trough for your horse. Just remember to fill it with water.\\nThis design can be converted into a larger stable building, since the pattern can easily be reproduced by simply using the side walls as separators for stalls and building more stalls that way.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A horse is a nice animal to tame in Minecraft. They carry you great distances, help haul your things, and they’re somewhat easy to find, if you spawn in a plains or savannah biome. They're perfectly fine with or without shelter, but if you want to put a roof over their head, it’s really easy to build them a nice little stable to stay in while you’re not going on adventures!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Horse Stable\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"For your stable, you’ll be needing wood, and quite a lot of it! In total, you’ll need 23 fences, 21 wood blocks, 30 wood planks, 29 wood slabs, 12 cobblestone, stone or stone bricks, and 8 torches.\\nYou can use any combination of wood types for your materials. You want to create a really vibrant-looking stable!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out the posts.\", \"描述\": \"First, create a stack 3 blocks high with your wood blocks. Now, with three spaces away from it, create another stack of the same height. Make two more until it becomes a box formation, around 5x5 blocks wide.\\nFrom the top, it should look something like this: w = wood X = empty w X X X w X X X X X X X X X X X X w X X X w\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fence it in.\", \"描述\": \"Now, on three of the four sides, place wood planks across the space between the pillar, then place slabs over the planks. This is to prevent the horse from climbing up on your fence. Now place fences on top of the planks, and then on the topmost pillar, place more planks to completely seal the room.\\nOn the opening, place fence posts up to the very top in front of the posts by the opening, then place a pair of two-block-high stack of fences in the entrance gap, and close it off by connecting another fence between them. p = planks f = fence s = slab First layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w f X f w f f X f f Second layer w s s s w s X X X s s X X X s s X X X s w f X f w f f X f f Third layer w X X X w f X X X f f X X X f f X X X f w X X X w f X X X f Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w X X X w f f X f f\\nWith this design, you wouldn’t need to build fence gates to keep your horse inside, because it tricks the horse into thinking the space is too narrow to go through while actually having ample space to go through!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the roof.\", \"描述\": \"From the fence pillar to the back of your stable, place your slabs surrounding the walls, then fill in the remaining space in the middle with wood blocks. \\nNow, between the opening’s wood posts, place two slabs below the wood block roof to create a sort of extrusion on the opening. Roof layer s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Fourth layer w p p p w p X X X p p X X X p p X X X p w s s s w f X X X f\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decorating the Stable\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place four torches on the walls inside the stable.\", \"描述\": \"This is so your horse won’t have some unwelcome visitors spawning in there. Monsters tend to spawn in very dark places, or during the night, so even just placing one torch would ward away the monsters, but more would ward them off for longer distances.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Replace the dirt floor of your stable with some nice, clean stone.\", \"描述\": \"While it only serves to make things look nice, your horse stable would look better and more well-kept with stone flooring.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make a wooden entrance flooring.\", \"描述\": \"You can use your remaining wood blocks for this. Dig out the row of dirt from under your fence posts and the area between it, then place two upright wood blocks below the fences. Place the rest of your wood sideways until the ends meet so that it looks like a flat log. There you have it! A nice entranceway for your stable!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also add some hay bales inside the stable for decoration.\\n\", \"A cauldron would make an excellent water trough for your horse. Just remember to fill it with water.\\n\", \"This design can be converted into a larger stable building, since the pattern can easily be reproduced by simply using the side walls as separators for stalls and building more stalls that way.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,386
How to Build a Horseshoe Pit
1. Putting Together the Frames 1-1. Gather the necessary materials. To fashion the frames for a pair of opposing horseshoe pits, you’ll need 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, and a few spare 2x6s to fashion backboards, if you decide you want them. You’ll also need 16-24 2.5 in (6.4 cm) deck screws, 2 3 ft (0.91 m) steel stakes roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter, and 3-4 bags of sand to finish assembling and filling in the frame. Pick up some spray paint, flour, or lime as well if you want to mark the foul line on the ground along the pit. To build a single pit for casual games, use half of the materials listed here. 1-2. Cut your lumber to the appropriate size. Saw the 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards in half lengthwise to get 4 48 inches (120 cm) wooden pieces. Do the same for the 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6s (38mm x 140mm) to create 4 36 in (91 cm) pieces. Together, these components will form the basic structure of your horseshoe pit. If you think you might want backboards for your horseshoe pits, go ahead and cut 3 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards and 2 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2s (38mm x 38mm), as well. Use a circular saw to cut your boards quickly and efficiently. If you don’t have a circular saw, you can also saw the boards by hand, or have your supplier cut your lumber to your preferred dimensions before bringing it home. Always wear thick, rugged work gloves and protective eyewear anytime you’re operating a power saw to keep yourself safe. 1-3. Assemble the frame and fasten it with deck screws. Put the 2 48 in (120 cm) pieces and the 2 36 in (91 cm) pieces together to create the basic outline for the frame. Drive the wood screws through the outer face of the shorter segments into the longer ones to fasten the frame. Repeat the process if you’re building a second pit. Be sure to configure both frames identically to confirm that they have the same dimensions. When you’re finished, go back and re-tighten each of the screws in the frame so that they’re nice and secure. 2. Digging the Pits 2-1. Set aside a stretch of flat, open ground to situate your pit or pits. If you're only building 1 pit, pick out a site where you'll have plenty of room to stand back and throw comfortably. If you're building 2 pits for competitive play, choose a location that offers at least 48 feet (15 m), including 2 feet (0.61 m) of clearance behind each pit. Each pit will be roughly 6 feet (1.8 m) wide. National Horseshoe Pitchers Association rules advise that the stakes be positioned exactly 40 feet (12 m) apart, with the throwing lines drawn 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) in front of each stake, but you’re free to use whatever distance works best for your space. 2-2. Set up your frames where you plan on digging the pits. Put the frames into position in the area you’ve designated for your horseshoe pits. Make sure they’re directly opposite one another, and that the longer sides are perfectly aligned. There should be a distance of 36 feet (11 m) between the front edge of each frame. If you want to double-check the placement of the frames, run a tape measure or piece of string from the far end of one frame to the far end of the other. This will make it easier to see if one of the frames is off-center. It’s important that you arrange your frames just right, as you’ll be marking their position to use a guide when you begin digging. 2-3. Mark the ground along the outer perimeter of each frame. The markings will serve as a visual aid to help you get your pits positioned correctly. Once you’ve traced around both frames, pick them up and set them aside. You should be left with two rectangular outlines. If you’re building the horseshoe pits in your yard and don’t want to spray paint the grass, you can also sprinkle a thin line of flour or lime around the edges of the frames. 2-4. Dig a pit 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) deep inside each outline. Do your best to keep the edges of the pit within the rectangular markings. The idea behind making the pits slightly deeper than the width of the boards is to allow the frame to sit just below the playing surface. A deeper hole will help keep the sand confined inside the pit. 2-5. Lower the frames into the pits. If you followed the dimensions of the outlines carefully while digging, the frames should fit perfectly. All that’s left to do now is install the stakes, fill in the empty space, and add any other accessories you want to include. 3. Adding the Finishing Touches 3-1. Drive a metal stake into the center of each pit. Position the stakes 36 inches (91 cm) from the front edge of the frames and sink them to a depth of 21–22 inches (53–56 cm) using a sledgehammer. According to NHPA guidelines, 14–15 inches (36–38 cm) of the stake should remain exposed above the ground. However, this is only important if you’re intent on building a regulation pit. If you’re only going to be playing recreationally, a height of anywhere from 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) will work just fine. After driving the stakes, jostle them to make sure they’re set firmly in the ground—the last thing you want is for them to come loose in the middle of a game! The stakes in NHPA pits are also sometimes tilted forward at roughly a 12-degree angle. If you want your pits to be up to regulation, use a ruler to form a triangle between the stake and the playing surface. The end of the stake should hit the ruler at the 12 in (30 cm) mark. If you want to make your horseshoe pit more or less permanent, consider pouring a concrete base around each stake. The process will require extra time and labor, but it will result in a much more stable stake. 3-2. Line the pits with landscaping cloth to prevent shifting (optional). Cut a roll of landscaping cloth into 2 36 in (91 cm) x 48 in (120 cm) sheets and smooth a sheet over the bottom of both pits. While this step isn’t absolutely necessary, it can be useful for keeping the sand from sifting into the cracks in the dirt below as it settles. You can find landscaping cloth at any hardware store or home improvement center, or in the lawn and garden section of most superstores. 3-3. Fill in the pits with sand. Snip the corner off a bag of sand and make your way around the pit sifting the sand from corner to corner in a spiral pattern. Continue in this fashion until the sand is level with the tops of the frames, using as many bags as needed to completely fill the pits. Once they’re topped off, pat the sand with the back of a shovel or trample it underfoot to flatten it down. If you prefer, you could also fill your pits with packed soil or blue clay. Sand and clay are generally considered the best play surfaces for horseshoes, as they help minimize bouncing, skipping, and sliding. 3-4. Fashion backboards for the pits to stop stray horseshoes (optional). To build a simple backboard, line up 3 of the 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 pieces you cut earlier along the center of a 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2 board and fasten them on the backside using deck screws. Then, align the backboard with the pit stake and drive or bury the foot so that the 2x6 piece are flush with the ground. If you want to give your backboards a little more heft to ensure that they don’t move, use landscape timber instead of ordinary lumber. Backboards won’t be necessary for most home pits, but they can come in handy if you don’t want to have to chase after your horseshoes, or if there are objects nearby that could accidentally be damaged by a missed throw. 3-5. Spray paint foul lines around each pit using. Draw the foul lines in a square or rectangle extending from the front edge of each pit. Remember, the throwing line should be 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) away from the stake, according to official NHPA rules. The sidelines will be the same width as the pit itself, and are there to make it easier to spot throws that go out-of-bounds. If you don’t like the idea of spray painting your lawn, come up with another way to mark the foul lines. For example, you might place a series of colored stakes at each of the corners, or simply lay down a stick to serve as a makeshift throwing line. Tips To make sure the frames for your pits come out the right size, follow the old handyman’s adage: “measure twice, cut once.” If you’re looking for a less expensive option, forget the frames altogether and simply set two metal stakes 40 feet (12 m) apart, then lightly break up the dirt around each stake. It's a bare bones design, but it will let you get playing right away. Warnings Horseshoes are heavy, and when thrown inexpertly, they’re capable of doing serious damage, Always stand clear of other players while they’re throwing, and never do anything to intentionally distract a player or throw off their aim.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Putting Together the Frames\\n1-1. Gather the necessary materials.\\nTo fashion the frames for a pair of opposing horseshoe pits, you’ll need 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, and a few spare 2x6s to fashion backboards, if you decide you want them. You’ll also need 16-24 2.5 in (6.4 cm) deck screws, 2 3 ft (0.91 m) steel stakes roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter, and 3-4 bags of sand to finish assembling and filling in the frame.\\nPick up some spray paint, flour, or lime as well if you want to mark the foul line on the ground along the pit.\\nTo build a single pit for casual games, use half of the materials listed here.\\n1-2. Cut your lumber to the appropriate size.\\nSaw the 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards in half lengthwise to get 4 48 inches (120 cm) wooden pieces. Do the same for the 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6s (38mm x 140mm) to create 4 36 in (91 cm) pieces. Together, these components will form the basic structure of your horseshoe pit.\\nIf you think you might want backboards for your horseshoe pits, go ahead and cut 3 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards and 2 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2s (38mm x 38mm), as well.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your boards quickly and efficiently. If you don’t have a circular saw, you can also saw the boards by hand, or have your supplier cut your lumber to your preferred dimensions before bringing it home.\\nAlways wear thick, rugged work gloves and protective eyewear anytime you’re operating a power saw to keep yourself safe.\\n1-3. Assemble the frame and fasten it with deck screws.\\nPut the 2 48 in (120 cm) pieces and the 2 36 in (91 cm) pieces together to create the basic outline for the frame. Drive the wood screws through the outer face of the shorter segments into the longer ones to fasten the frame. Repeat the process if you’re building a second pit.\\nBe sure to configure both frames identically to confirm that they have the same dimensions.\\nWhen you’re finished, go back and re-tighten each of the screws in the frame so that they’re nice and secure.\\n2. Digging the Pits\\n2-1. Set aside a stretch of flat, open ground to situate your pit or pits.\\nIf you're only building 1 pit, pick out a site where you'll have plenty of room to stand back and throw comfortably. If you're building 2 pits for competitive play, choose a location that offers at least 48 feet (15 m), including 2 feet (0.61 m) of clearance behind each pit. Each pit will be roughly 6 feet (1.8 m) wide.\\nNational Horseshoe Pitchers Association rules advise that the stakes be positioned exactly 40 feet (12 m) apart, with the throwing lines drawn 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) in front of each stake, but you’re free to use whatever distance works best for your space.\\n2-2. Set up your frames where you plan on digging the pits.\\nPut the frames into position in the area you’ve designated for your horseshoe pits. Make sure they’re directly opposite one another, and that the longer sides are perfectly aligned. There should be a distance of 36 feet (11 m) between the front edge of each frame.\\nIf you want to double-check the placement of the frames, run a tape measure or piece of string from the far end of one frame to the far end of the other. This will make it easier to see if one of the frames is off-center.\\nIt’s important that you arrange your frames just right, as you’ll be marking their position to use a guide when you begin digging.\\n2-3. Mark the ground along the outer perimeter of each frame.\\nThe markings will serve as a visual aid to help you get your pits positioned correctly. Once you’ve traced around both frames, pick them up and set them aside. You should be left with two rectangular outlines.\\nIf you’re building the horseshoe pits in your yard and don’t want to spray paint the grass, you can also sprinkle a thin line of flour or lime around the edges of the frames.\\n2-4. Dig a pit 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) deep inside each outline.\\nDo your best to keep the edges of the pit within the rectangular markings. The idea behind making the pits slightly deeper than the width of the boards is to allow the frame to sit just below the playing surface.\\nA deeper hole will help keep the sand confined inside the pit.\\n2-5. Lower the frames into the pits.\\nIf you followed the dimensions of the outlines carefully while digging, the frames should fit perfectly. All that’s left to do now is install the stakes, fill in the empty space, and add any other accessories you want to include.\\n3. Adding the Finishing Touches\\n3-1. Drive a metal stake into the center of each pit.\\nPosition the stakes 36 inches (91 cm) from the front edge of the frames and sink them to a depth of 21–22 inches (53–56 cm) using a sledgehammer. According to NHPA guidelines, 14–15 inches (36–38 cm) of the stake should remain exposed above the ground. However, this is only important if you’re intent on building a regulation pit. If you’re only going to be playing recreationally, a height of anywhere from 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) will work just fine.\\nAfter driving the stakes, jostle them to make sure they’re set firmly in the ground—the last thing you want is for them to come loose in the middle of a game!\\nThe stakes in NHPA pits are also sometimes tilted forward at roughly a 12-degree angle. If you want your pits to be up to regulation, use a ruler to form a triangle between the stake and the playing surface. The end of the stake should hit the ruler at the 12 in (30 cm) mark.\\nIf you want to make your horseshoe pit more or less permanent, consider pouring a concrete base around each stake. The process will require extra time and labor, but it will result in a much more stable stake.\\n3-2. Line the pits with landscaping cloth to prevent shifting (optional).\\nCut a roll of landscaping cloth into 2 36 in (91 cm) x 48 in (120 cm) sheets and smooth a sheet over the bottom of both pits. While this step isn’t absolutely necessary, it can be useful for keeping the sand from sifting into the cracks in the dirt below as it settles.\\nYou can find landscaping cloth at any hardware store or home improvement center, or in the lawn and garden section of most superstores.\\n3-3. Fill in the pits with sand.\\nSnip the corner off a bag of sand and make your way around the pit sifting the sand from corner to corner in a spiral pattern. Continue in this fashion until the sand is level with the tops of the frames, using as many bags as needed to completely fill the pits. Once they’re topped off, pat the sand with the back of a shovel or trample it underfoot to flatten it down.\\nIf you prefer, you could also fill your pits with packed soil or blue clay.\\nSand and clay are generally considered the best play surfaces for horseshoes, as they help minimize bouncing, skipping, and sliding.\\n3-4. Fashion backboards for the pits to stop stray horseshoes (optional).\\nTo build a simple backboard, line up 3 of the 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 pieces you cut earlier along the center of a 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2 board and fasten them on the backside using deck screws. Then, align the backboard with the pit stake and drive or bury the foot so that the 2x6 piece are flush with the ground.\\nIf you want to give your backboards a little more heft to ensure that they don’t move, use landscape timber instead of ordinary lumber.\\nBackboards won’t be necessary for most home pits, but they can come in handy if you don’t want to have to chase after your horseshoes, or if there are objects nearby that could accidentally be damaged by a missed throw.\\n3-5. Spray paint foul lines around each pit using.\\nDraw the foul lines in a square or rectangle extending from the front edge of each pit. Remember, the throwing line should be 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) away from the stake, according to official NHPA rules. The sidelines will be the same width as the pit itself, and are there to make it easier to spot throws that go out-of-bounds.\\nIf you don’t like the idea of spray painting your lawn, come up with another way to mark the foul lines. For example, you might place a series of colored stakes at each of the corners, or simply lay down a stick to serve as a makeshift throwing line.\\nTips\\nTo make sure the frames for your pits come out the right size, follow the old handyman’s adage: “measure twice, cut once.”\\nIf you’re looking for a less expensive option, forget the frames altogether and simply set two metal stakes 40 feet (12 m) apart, then lightly break up the dirt around each stake. It's a bare bones design, but it will let you get playing right away.\\nWarnings\\nHorseshoes are heavy, and when thrown inexpertly, they’re capable of doing serious damage, Always stand clear of other players while they’re throwing, and never do anything to intentionally distract a player or throw off their aim.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Horseshoes is the kind of game that’s fun for the whole family, but it’s not always easy to find a place to play. Luckily, you can put together a regulation-style pit in your own backyard using only a few inexpensive materials. All you’ll need is a few 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, a pair of metal stakes, and some play sand.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Putting Together the Frames\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather the necessary materials.\", \"描述\": \"To fashion the frames for a pair of opposing horseshoe pits, you’ll need 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards, and a few spare 2x6s to fashion backboards, if you decide you want them. You’ll also need 16-24 2.5 in (6.4 cm) deck screws, 2 3 ft (0.91 m) steel stakes roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter, and 3-4 bags of sand to finish assembling and filling in the frame.\\nPick up some spray paint, flour, or lime as well if you want to mark the foul line on the ground along the pit.\\nTo build a single pit for casual games, use half of the materials listed here.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Cut your lumber to the appropriate size.\", \"描述\": \"Saw the 2 8 ft (2.4 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards in half lengthwise to get 4 48 inches (120 cm) wooden pieces. Do the same for the 2 6 ft (1.8 m) 2x6s (38mm x 140mm) to create 4 36 in (91 cm) pieces. Together, these components will form the basic structure of your horseshoe pit.\\nIf you think you might want backboards for your horseshoe pits, go ahead and cut 3 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 (38mm x 140mm) boards and 2 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2s (38mm x 38mm), as well.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your boards quickly and efficiently. If you don’t have a circular saw, you can also saw the boards by hand, or have your supplier cut your lumber to your preferred dimensions before bringing it home.\\nAlways wear thick, rugged work gloves and protective eyewear anytime you’re operating a power saw to keep yourself safe.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Assemble the frame and fasten it with deck screws.\", \"描述\": \"Put the 2 48 in (120 cm) pieces and the 2 36 in (91 cm) pieces together to create the basic outline for the frame. Drive the wood screws through the outer face of the shorter segments into the longer ones to fasten the frame. Repeat the process if you’re building a second pit.\\nBe sure to configure both frames identically to confirm that they have the same dimensions.\\nWhen you’re finished, go back and re-tighten each of the screws in the frame so that they’re nice and secure.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Digging the Pits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set aside a stretch of flat, open ground to situate your pit or pits.\", \"描述\": \"If you're only building 1 pit, pick out a site where you'll have plenty of room to stand back and throw comfortably. If you're building 2 pits for competitive play, choose a location that offers at least 48 feet (15 m), including 2 feet (0.61 m) of clearance behind each pit. Each pit will be roughly 6 feet (1.8 m) wide.\\nNational Horseshoe Pitchers Association rules advise that the stakes be positioned exactly 40 feet (12 m) apart, with the throwing lines drawn 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) in front of each stake, but you’re free to use whatever distance works best for your space.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Set up your frames where you plan on digging the pits.\", \"描述\": \"Put the frames into position in the area you’ve designated for your horseshoe pits. Make sure they’re directly opposite one another, and that the longer sides are perfectly aligned. There should be a distance of 36 feet (11 m) between the front edge of each frame.\\nIf you want to double-check the placement of the frames, run a tape measure or piece of string from the far end of one frame to the far end of the other. This will make it easier to see if one of the frames is off-center.\\nIt’s important that you arrange your frames just right, as you’ll be marking their position to use a guide when you begin digging.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the ground along the outer perimeter of each frame.\", \"描述\": \"The markings will serve as a visual aid to help you get your pits positioned correctly. Once you’ve traced around both frames, pick them up and set them aside. You should be left with two rectangular outlines.\\nIf you’re building the horseshoe pits in your yard and don’t want to spray paint the grass, you can also sprinkle a thin line of flour or lime around the edges of the frames.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a pit 7–8 inches (18–20 cm) deep inside each outline.\", \"描述\": \"Do your best to keep the edges of the pit within the rectangular markings. The idea behind making the pits slightly deeper than the width of the boards is to allow the frame to sit just below the playing surface.\\nA deeper hole will help keep the sand confined inside the pit.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Lower the frames into the pits.\", \"描述\": \"If you followed the dimensions of the outlines carefully while digging, the frames should fit perfectly. All that’s left to do now is install the stakes, fill in the empty space, and add any other accessories you want to include.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding the Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Drive a metal stake into the center of each pit.\", \"描述\": \"Position the stakes 36 inches (91 cm) from the front edge of the frames and sink them to a depth of 21–22 inches (53–56 cm) using a sledgehammer. According to NHPA guidelines, 14–15 inches (36–38 cm) of the stake should remain exposed above the ground. However, this is only important if you’re intent on building a regulation pit. If you’re only going to be playing recreationally, a height of anywhere from 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) will work just fine.\\nAfter driving the stakes, jostle them to make sure they’re set firmly in the ground—the last thing you want is for them to come loose in the middle of a game!\\nThe stakes in NHPA pits are also sometimes tilted forward at roughly a 12-degree angle. If you want your pits to be up to regulation, use a ruler to form a triangle between the stake and the playing surface. The end of the stake should hit the ruler at the 12 in (30 cm) mark.\\nIf you want to make your horseshoe pit more or less permanent, consider pouring a concrete base around each stake. The process will require extra time and labor, but it will result in a much more stable stake.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line the pits with landscaping cloth to prevent shifting (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Cut a roll of landscaping cloth into 2 36 in (91 cm) x 48 in (120 cm) sheets and smooth a sheet over the bottom of both pits. While this step isn’t absolutely necessary, it can be useful for keeping the sand from sifting into the cracks in the dirt below as it settles.\\nYou can find landscaping cloth at any hardware store or home improvement center, or in the lawn and garden section of most superstores.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fill in the pits with sand.\", \"描述\": \"Snip the corner off a bag of sand and make your way around the pit sifting the sand from corner to corner in a spiral pattern. Continue in this fashion until the sand is level with the tops of the frames, using as many bags as needed to completely fill the pits. Once they’re topped off, pat the sand with the back of a shovel or trample it underfoot to flatten it down.\\nIf you prefer, you could also fill your pits with packed soil or blue clay.\\nSand and clay are generally considered the best play surfaces for horseshoes, as they help minimize bouncing, skipping, and sliding.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fashion backboards for the pits to stop stray horseshoes (optional).\", \"描述\": \"To build a simple backboard, line up 3 of the 3 ft (0.91 m) 2x6 pieces you cut earlier along the center of a 2 ft (0.61 m) 2x2 board and fasten them on the backside using deck screws. Then, align the backboard with the pit stake and drive or bury the foot so that the 2x6 piece are flush with the ground.\\nIf you want to give your backboards a little more heft to ensure that they don’t move, use landscape timber instead of ordinary lumber.\\nBackboards won’t be necessary for most home pits, but they can come in handy if you don’t want to have to chase after your horseshoes, or if there are objects nearby that could accidentally be damaged by a missed throw.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Spray paint foul lines around each pit using.\", \"描述\": \"Draw the foul lines in a square or rectangle extending from the front edge of each pit. Remember, the throwing line should be 27–37 feet (8.2–11.3 m) away from the stake, according to official NHPA rules. The sidelines will be the same width as the pit itself, and are there to make it easier to spot throws that go out-of-bounds.\\nIf you don’t like the idea of spray painting your lawn, come up with another way to mark the foul lines. For example, you might place a series of colored stakes at each of the corners, or simply lay down a stick to serve as a makeshift throwing line.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"To make sure the frames for your pits come out the right size, follow the old handyman’s adage: “measure twice, cut once.”\\n\", \"If you’re looking for a less expensive option, forget the frames altogether and simply set two metal stakes 40 feet (12 m) apart, then lightly break up the dirt around each stake. It's a bare bones design, but it will let you get playing right away.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Horseshoes are heavy, and when thrown inexpertly, they’re capable of doing serious damage, Always stand clear of other players while they’re throwing, and never do anything to intentionally distract a player or throw off their aim.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,387
How to Build a Hot Tub Platform
1. Steps 1-1. Decide where you want to place the platform. If you plan to place the hot tub in a location that was previously lawn, you have two ways to do this. The first is to take an 8 foot (2.4 meters) by 8 foot (2.4 meters) section of lawn out and dig down past the sod to undisturbed soil. Then fill the excavation with gravel and level. The second is to build a deck strong enough to support the weight of a hot tub filled with water and people enjoying themselves. You can use the plan below to construct a hot tub deck in one afternoon. 1-2. Lay out a perfect 8 foot square at the location you plan to build the deck. Pound stakes in the corners and then measure the diagonals. They should be the same, about 11' 3.5" 1-3. Wrap a string around the corner stakes and make two diagonal strings to locate the center. Pound a stake at the center location. 1-4. Pound stakes at the center of each side (4' from the corner stake). Now you have a cross. Measure 32 inches (81.3 cm) from the center of the cross and pound a stake at these four locations. 1-5. Now find the last four stakes by measuring 32" from two of your last four stakes as shown in the photo to the right. Repeat this for each corner. Now you should have 9 stakes inside your 8' square. These 9 locations are where your pier footings will be placed. 1-6. Dig a 15" by 15" square hole at each of the inside nine stakes. The hole should be about a foot deep. The bottom of the hole should be on undisturbed soil. You can use the grass to fill in bad spots elsewhere on the lawn. 1-7. Fill the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of the hole with sand. You can purchase play sand at most home centers. 1-8. Flatten the sand with a square end shovel or a piece of plywood. Try to make it as level as possible. Make a 15" by 15" template to lay on the sand and check for level in each direction. 1-9. Place the footing on top of the sand with the straps aligned with the direction of the beams. 1-10. Wiggle the block until it is level in both directions. Note that the spirit level shown in the picture is lying on its side for clarity. 1-11. Repeat this process with each hole and footing, making sure that the rows are aligned. You can lay a 4" by 4" post down the middle of the straps to check alignment. 1-12. Tamp excavated soil into the holes around the footings compacting the ground so the footing can't move. Add enough soil so the ground slopes away from the footing to prevent puddles. 1-13. You should now have 9 footings in a 64" square in the middle of an 8' staked off square. You are now ready to set the posts. Before you set the posts Nail the beams with 10 to 12 16d nails on each side. 1-14. Set the center post first. The deck will be the post height plus 12 1/2". Determine the first post height. The second post will be the length that is level with the first post. Repeat with the remaining posts checking level from the same center post. Don't nail the footing straps at this time. 1-15. Place the "Post to Beam" ties on top of each post and nail through the holes provided. This is more easily done on a sawhorse. Do one at a time so you don't mix them up. Mark the beam 16" from the end and place it over the outside posts. 1-16. Do the same with the other outside beam. Measure the diagonal from outside corner to outside corner. Adjust until they are exactly the same. Add the center beam aligned with the two outside beams. Tack one nail in each footing strap and one in the beam holder. 1-17. Recruit others to fill in the nail pattern for each beam holder and footing straps with galvanized 8d nails. 1-18. Toenail a 2" x 6" joist to each end of the beams. Check the diagonal to be sure it is square. When you are sure it is square, wrap a string around it and fill in with the remaining joists as shown in the plan above. 1-19. Nail a rim joist to the ends of the joists and nail blocking down the center. 1-20. Mark the outside joists every 6.25" from each side. You should meet in the middle at 50 inches (130 cm) (see plan). Nail deck boards at each end so that it covers the rim joist. Do both ends. Have your family members nail two 16d galvanized nails through deck board into joists at the 6.25" marks. Tips Hot tubs weigh about 700 to 800 pounds dry and about 3700 pounds when filled. Placement of the hot tub should be planned well ahead of delivery. The location should be accessible to the 50 amp service most require. Other than that requirement, it should be located where it pleases you. If it will be located on a patio slab you will not need this article. If you live where the Earth freezes in winter, be sure to think about deeper footings! A cutoff saw works best for posts and blocking. Warnings Make sure your measurements are precise when completing this project. If the pieces don't line up because of measurement errors, then the sturdiness of your platform will be seriously compromised. If you have an existing deck, cut the beam and joist spans in half to provide the additional support. Be careful handling heavy equipment and materials during the construction process. You could seriously injure yourself. Don't use any ordinary deck plans for a hot tub. They are designed to support 40 pound live load. These plans should support an 80 pound live load plus a 20 pound dead load per square feet.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Decide where you want to place the platform.\\nIf you plan to place the hot tub in a location that was previously lawn, you have two ways to do this.\\nThe first is to take an 8 foot (2.4 meters) by 8 foot (2.4 meters) section of lawn out and dig down past the sod to undisturbed soil. Then fill the excavation with gravel and level.\\nThe second is to build a deck strong enough to support the weight of a hot tub filled with water and people enjoying themselves. You can use the plan below to construct a hot tub deck in one afternoon.\\n1-2. Lay out a perfect 8 foot square at the location you plan to build the deck.\\nPound stakes in the corners and then measure the diagonals. They should be the same, about 11' 3.5\\\"\\n1-3. Wrap a string around the corner stakes and make two diagonal strings to locate the center.\\nPound a stake at the center location.\\n1-4. Pound stakes at the center of each side (4' from the corner stake).\\nNow you have a cross. Measure 32 inches (81.3 cm) from the center of the cross and pound a stake at these four locations.\\n1-5. Now find the last four stakes by measuring 32\\\" from two of your last four stakes as shown in the photo to the right.\\nRepeat this for each corner. Now you should have 9 stakes inside your 8' square. These 9 locations are where your pier footings will be placed.\\n1-6. Dig a 15\\\" by 15\\\" square hole at each of the inside nine stakes.\\nThe hole should be about a foot deep. The bottom of the hole should be on undisturbed soil. You can use the grass to fill in bad spots elsewhere on the lawn.\\n1-7. Fill the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of the hole with sand.\\nYou can purchase play sand at most home centers.\\n1-8. Flatten the sand with a square end shovel or a piece of plywood.\\nTry to make it as level as possible. Make a 15\\\" by 15\\\" template to lay on the sand and check for level in each direction.\\n1-9. Place the footing on top of the sand with the straps aligned with the direction of the beams.\\n\\n1-10. Wiggle the block until it is level in both directions.\\nNote that the spirit level shown in the picture is lying on its side for clarity.\\n1-11. Repeat this process with each hole and footing, making sure that the rows are aligned.\\nYou can lay a 4\\\" by 4\\\" post down the middle of the straps to check alignment.\\n1-12. Tamp excavated soil into the holes around the footings compacting the ground so the footing can't move.\\nAdd enough soil so the ground slopes away from the footing to prevent puddles.\\n1-13. You should now have 9 footings in a 64\\\" square in the middle of an 8' staked off square.\\nYou are now ready to set the posts. Before you set the posts Nail the beams with 10 to 12 16d nails on each side.\\n1-14. Set the center post first.\\nThe deck will be the post height plus 12 1/2\\\". Determine the first post height. The second post will be the length that is level with the first post. Repeat with the remaining posts checking level from the same center post. Don't nail the footing straps at this time.\\n1-15. Place the \\\"Post to Beam\\\" ties on top of each post and nail through the holes provided.\\nThis is more easily done on a sawhorse. Do one at a time so you don't mix them up. Mark the beam 16\\\" from the end and place it over the outside posts.\\n1-16. Do the same with the other outside beam.\\nMeasure the diagonal from outside corner to outside corner. Adjust until they are exactly the same. Add the center beam aligned with the two outside beams. Tack one nail in each footing strap and one in the beam holder.\\n1-17. Recruit others to fill in the nail pattern for each beam holder and footing straps with galvanized 8d nails.\\n\\n1-18. Toenail a 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist to each end of the beams. Check the diagonal to be sure it is square.\\nWhen you are sure it is square, wrap a string around it and fill in with the remaining joists as shown in the plan above.\\n1-19. Nail a rim joist to the ends of the joists and nail blocking down the center.\\n\\n1-20. Mark the outside joists every 6.25\\\" from each side.\\nYou should meet in the middle at 50 inches (130 cm) (see plan). Nail deck boards at each end so that it covers the rim joist. Do both ends. Have your family members nail two 16d galvanized nails through deck board into joists at the 6.25\\\" marks.\\nTips\\nHot tubs weigh about 700 to 800 pounds dry and about 3700 pounds when filled. Placement of the hot tub should be planned well ahead of delivery. The location should be accessible to the 50 amp service most require. Other than that requirement, it should be located where it pleases you. If it will be located on a patio slab you will not need this article.\\nIf you live where the Earth freezes in winter, be sure to think about deeper footings!\\nA cutoff saw works best for posts and blocking.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure your measurements are precise when completing this project. If the pieces don't line up because of measurement errors, then the sturdiness of your platform will be seriously compromised.\\nIf you have an existing deck, cut the beam and joist spans in half to provide the additional support.\\nBe careful handling heavy equipment and materials during the construction process. You could seriously injure yourself.\\nDon't use any ordinary deck plans for a hot tub. They are designed to support 40 pound live load. These plans should support an 80 pound live load plus a 20 pound dead load per square feet.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a hot tub platform is the first step to installing a jacuzzi system in your backyard. Although this requires quite a bit of effort, it is much less expensive than outsourcing the job to a professional company. You can also pick your own materials to ensure the high quality of the job.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide where you want to place the platform.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan to place the hot tub in a location that was previously lawn, you have two ways to do this.\\nThe first is to take an 8 foot (2.4 meters) by 8 foot (2.4 meters) section of lawn out and dig down past the sod to undisturbed soil. Then fill the excavation with gravel and level.\\nThe second is to build a deck strong enough to support the weight of a hot tub filled with water and people enjoying themselves. You can use the plan below to construct a hot tub deck in one afternoon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out a perfect 8 foot square at the location you plan to build the deck.\", \"描述\": \"Pound stakes in the corners and then measure the diagonals. They should be the same, about 11' 3.5\\\"\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap a string around the corner stakes and make two diagonal strings to locate the center.\", \"描述\": \"Pound a stake at the center location.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pound stakes at the center of each side (4' from the corner stake).\", \"描述\": \"Now you have a cross. Measure 32 inches (81.3 cm) from the center of the cross and pound a stake at these four locations.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Now find the last four stakes by measuring 32\\\" from two of your last four stakes as shown in the photo to the right.\", \"描述\": \"Repeat this for each corner. Now you should have 9 stakes inside your 8' square. These 9 locations are where your pier footings will be placed.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Dig a 15\\\" by 15\\\" square hole at each of the inside nine stakes.\", \"描述\": \"The hole should be about a foot deep. The bottom of the hole should be on undisturbed soil. You can use the grass to fill in bad spots elsewhere on the lawn.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Fill the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of the hole with sand.\", \"描述\": \"You can purchase play sand at most home centers.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Flatten the sand with a square end shovel or a piece of plywood.\", \"描述\": \"Try to make it as level as possible. Make a 15\\\" by 15\\\" template to lay on the sand and check for level in each direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the footing on top of the sand with the straps aligned with the direction of the beams.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Wiggle the block until it is level in both directions.\", \"描述\": \"Note that the spirit level shown in the picture is lying on its side for clarity.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Repeat this process with each hole and footing, making sure that the rows are aligned.\", \"描述\": \"You can lay a 4\\\" by 4\\\" post down the middle of the straps to check alignment.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Tamp excavated soil into the holes around the footings compacting the ground so the footing can't move.\", \"描述\": \"Add enough soil so the ground slopes away from the footing to prevent puddles.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"You should now have 9 footings in a 64\\\" square in the middle of an 8' staked off square.\", \"描述\": \"You are now ready to set the posts. Before you set the posts Nail the beams with 10 to 12 16d nails on each side.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Set the center post first.\", \"描述\": \"The deck will be the post height plus 12 1/2\\\". Determine the first post height. The second post will be the length that is level with the first post. Repeat with the remaining posts checking level from the same center post. Don't nail the footing straps at this time.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Place the \\\"Post to Beam\\\" ties on top of each post and nail through the holes provided.\", \"描述\": \"This is more easily done on a sawhorse. Do one at a time so you don't mix them up. Mark the beam 16\\\" from the end and place it over the outside posts.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Do the same with the other outside beam.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the diagonal from outside corner to outside corner. Adjust until they are exactly the same. Add the center beam aligned with the two outside beams. Tack one nail in each footing strap and one in the beam holder.\"}, {\"编号\": 17, \"标题\": \"Recruit others to fill in the nail pattern for each beam holder and footing straps with galvanized 8d nails.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 18, \"标题\": \"Toenail a 2\\\" x 6\\\" joist to each end of the beams. Check the diagonal to be sure it is square.\", \"描述\": \"When you are sure it is square, wrap a string around it and fill in with the remaining joists as shown in the plan above.\"}, {\"编号\": 19, \"标题\": \"Nail a rim joist to the ends of the joists and nail blocking down the center.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 20, \"标题\": \"Mark the outside joists every 6.25\\\" from each side.\", \"描述\": \"You should meet in the middle at 50 inches (130 cm) (see plan). Nail deck boards at each end so that it covers the rim joist. Do both ends. Have your family members nail two 16d galvanized nails through deck board into joists at the 6.25\\\" marks.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Hot tubs weigh about 700 to 800 pounds dry and about 3700 pounds when filled. Placement of the hot tub should be planned well ahead of delivery. The location should be accessible to the 50 amp service most require. Other than that requirement, it should be located where it pleases you. If it will be located on a patio slab you will not need this article.\\n\", \"If you live where the Earth freezes in winter, be sure to think about deeper footings!\\n\", \"A cutoff saw works best for posts and blocking.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure your measurements are precise when completing this project. If the pieces don't line up because of measurement errors, then the sturdiness of your platform will be seriously compromised.\\n\", \"If you have an existing deck, cut the beam and joist spans in half to provide the additional support.\\n\", \"Be careful handling heavy equipment and materials during the construction process. You could seriously injure yourself.\\n\", \"Don't use any ordinary deck plans for a hot tub. They are designed to support 40 pound live load. These plans should support an 80 pound live load plus a 20 pound dead load per square feet.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,388
How to Build a Hotel in Minecraft
1. Preparing 1-1. Generate an idea of what you want your hotel to look like. You don't have to have a comprehensive floor plan or a step-by-step blueprint, but knowing the general shape and size of your ideal hotel will help focus your building process. Some preferential criteria to keep in mind include the following: Number of floors Number of rooms per floor Average size of rooms Hotel layout Lobby design 1-2. Start a new game of Minecraft in Creative mode. While Creative mode will prevent you from acquiring achievements whilst playing, it will also give you both an unlimited amount of resources and the ability to fly. If you have a specific world you'd like to load, you can take the string of letters and numbers below the "Seed" heading in its information box and type it into your new world's "Seed" box to recreate it. Under the "World Type" section, you can choose an option entitled "Flat" (PE) or "Superflat" (all other versions). This will create a world with no vegetation or hills, making it perfect for a quick building session. 1-3. Navigate to the area in which you'll build your hotel. Typically, you'll want to find a relatively flat area wherein you won't have to remove too much vegetation or perform landscaping. If you're in a "Flat" world type, you can start building wherever you like. To fly in Minecraft's Creative mode, simply double-press the "jump" button. 1-4. Select your building materials. To do so, press the "inventory" button and move materials into the hotbar at the bottom of the screen. The hotbar houses all of your in-hand items, meaning you can quickly select an item by scrolling to it (or tapping it in Minecraft PE). Some common materials include the following: Wood (floors) Stone (walls, archways, fencing) 1-5. Outline the hotel's perimeter. To do this, simply remove a one-block-wide line of blocks around the area in which you wish to build your hotel. Once you have your building boundaries set, you can easily fill them in with the foundation, walls, and everything else that will comprise your hotel. This process is much easier in Creative mode since each block will only take one hit to break. 2. Building the Foundation, Floors, and Rooms 2-1. Fill in the entire outlined area. You'll be replacing every ground block inside of your hotel's perimeter with the hotel's floor material (e.g., wood). Don't worry about creating rooms or walls for now--just focus on creating the foundation on which your building will stand. 2-2. Create a column of blocks in each corner of the hotel. Each column should be the projected height of your hotel, though you can always add more stories later if you like. The reason you do this is so that you have an estimate of what the hotel's skeleton will look like before you begin filling it in. If the hotel looks too small, too big, or awkwardly proportioned, you can revise as necessary without have to remove several hours' worth of work. Be sure to place a column in every corner of your hotel if the hotel isn't rectangular. 2-3. Add a floor to your hotel. The first floor should be at least ten blocks up from the foundation so that your hotel's "lobby" appears spacious and comfortable. You'll create this floor by filling in the space between all of your building's columns with a building material of your choosing. This floor should be an example of what the rest of your hotel's floors look like. 2-4. Add stairs to the lobby and your first floor. These sets of stairs will likely differ, since the stairs from the lobby to the first floor can lead straight up, while you'll likely need to create sets of stairs that loop (or double back) along the sides of subsequent floors to reach the next floor up. 2-5. Stairs that double back are common in real hotels. When adding stairs that double back, you'll need a minimum of six blocks of height, as well as eight blocks of width and four blocks of depth. This is so you can have two sets of stairs facing one way, a landing, another two sets of stairs perpendicular to the first set, another landing, and finally a last set of stairs facing the opposite way of the first set. 2-6. Create the walls for each room on your first floor. You'll want to leave at least a one-by-two (width x height) space in each room's wall for a door facing out into the hallway. This process includes building the outer wall of the hotel as well, since this wall is also the outer wall for your rooms. A good way to do this is by creating a one-block-high outline of each room to ensure you like the design before proceeding. Make sure you have a room height in mind before doing this. 2-7. Recreate your floor plan on the next floor up. You'll repeat this process for each floor until your hotel is complete. 2-8. Add torches to each hallway. This will prevent your hotel from becoming too dark to navigate during night cycles. 2-9. Create a unique wall for the ground floor lobby. For example, you might fill in the lobby with glass rather than with stone or wood. 2-10. Cover the top of the hotel with a roof. If you want a simple roof, you can fill in the space between columns as though you're creating a new floor; otherwise, consider using ascending stairs or blocks that meet in the middle of your building to create a sloping roof. Once your hotel's structure is complete and filled in, you're ready to begin addressing individual rooms. 3. Decorating Your Hotel 3-1. Dress up individual rooms. You can do this in pretty much any way you like, but some common ways to do so include the following: Add a window by replacing several blocks in the outer wall with glass. Place a chest in a corner of a room. Add bookshelves, pictures, or other visually pleasing items. Place torches or other forms of lighting throughout the rooms. 3-2. Add beds and doors to rooms. You should have openings for each room's door, though you can add or remove these as you please to better suit your room placement once your floors are complete. You might also consider creating a doorway between some rooms to make a suite. You need at least two blocks of free space in front of you to place a bed. 3-3. Add decorations and furniture to the lobby. Think of the lobby as the ultimate room to decorate; since it's the first thing people will see when they come to your hotel, you'll want to make sure it's well-lit with torches, as well as decorated with pictures, windows, and environmental features. You might place a pool or a tree in the middle of your hotel's lobby. 3-4. Consider adding landscaping items. For example, you might add a fence around the hotel, or a pond out in front of it. This step is optional, of course, and your hotel's appearance will likely change with the passage of time as you add and remove features to your liking. Tips Consider adding a swimming pool to your hotel. Combining some blocks in Minecraft might make your hotel more attractive. Place a garden on top of your hotel and a café (if you want). Warnings Gathering the resources and reallocating them accordingly in Survival mode is extremely challenging, especially once you're more than ten or so blocks above the ground. If you do choose to build your hotel in Survival mode, make sure you have a safe area into which you can fall, as well as a bed nearby for your respawn point. You could use scaffolding to pile up. Press 'Jump' to go up whilst inside the block and press the 'Down' button below the jump button, not the backwards button.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing\\n1-1. Generate an idea of what you want your hotel to look like.\\nYou don't have to have a comprehensive floor plan or a step-by-step blueprint, but knowing the general shape and size of your ideal hotel will help focus your building process. Some preferential criteria to keep in mind include the following:\\nNumber of floors\\nNumber of rooms per floor\\nAverage size of rooms\\nHotel layout\\nLobby design\\n1-2. Start a new game of Minecraft in Creative mode.\\nWhile Creative mode will prevent you from acquiring achievements whilst playing, it will also give you both an unlimited amount of resources and the ability to fly.\\nIf you have a specific world you'd like to load, you can take the string of letters and numbers below the \\\"Seed\\\" heading in its information box and type it into your new world's \\\"Seed\\\" box to recreate it.\\nUnder the \\\"World Type\\\" section, you can choose an option entitled \\\"Flat\\\" (PE) or \\\"Superflat\\\" (all other versions). This will create a world with no vegetation or hills, making it perfect for a quick building session.\\n1-3. Navigate to the area in which you'll build your hotel.\\nTypically, you'll want to find a relatively flat area wherein you won't have to remove too much vegetation or perform landscaping.\\nIf you're in a \\\"Flat\\\" world type, you can start building wherever you like.\\nTo fly in Minecraft's Creative mode, simply double-press the \\\"jump\\\" button.\\n1-4. Select your building materials.\\nTo do so, press the \\\"inventory\\\" button and move materials into the hotbar at the bottom of the screen. The hotbar houses all of your in-hand items, meaning you can quickly select an item by scrolling to it (or tapping it in Minecraft PE). Some common materials include the following:\\nWood (floors)\\nStone (walls, archways, fencing)\\n1-5. Outline the hotel's perimeter.\\nTo do this, simply remove a one-block-wide line of blocks around the area in which you wish to build your hotel. Once you have your building boundaries set, you can easily fill them in with the foundation, walls, and everything else that will comprise your hotel.\\nThis process is much easier in Creative mode since each block will only take one hit to break.\\n2. Building the Foundation, Floors, and Rooms\\n2-1. Fill in the entire outlined area.\\nYou'll be replacing every ground block inside of your hotel's perimeter with the hotel's floor material (e.g., wood). Don't worry about creating rooms or walls for now--just focus on creating the foundation on which your building will stand.\\n2-2. Create a column of blocks in each corner of the hotel.\\nEach column should be the projected height of your hotel, though you can always add more stories later if you like.\\nThe reason you do this is so that you have an estimate of what the hotel's skeleton will look like before you begin filling it in. If the hotel looks too small, too big, or awkwardly proportioned, you can revise as necessary without have to remove several hours' worth of work.\\nBe sure to place a column in every corner of your hotel if the hotel isn't rectangular.\\n2-3. Add a floor to your hotel.\\nThe first floor should be at least ten blocks up from the foundation so that your hotel's \\\"lobby\\\" appears spacious and comfortable. You'll create this floor by filling in the space between all of your building's columns with a building material of your choosing.\\nThis floor should be an example of what the rest of your hotel's floors look like.\\n2-4. Add stairs to the lobby and your first floor.\\nThese sets of stairs will likely differ, since the stairs from the lobby to the first floor can lead straight up, while you'll likely need to create sets of stairs that loop (or double back) along the sides of subsequent floors to reach the next floor up.\\n2-5. \\nStairs that double back are common in real hotels.\\nWhen adding stairs that double back, you'll need a minimum of six blocks of height, as well as eight blocks of width and four blocks of depth. This is so you can have two sets of stairs facing one way, a landing, another two sets of stairs perpendicular to the first set, another landing, and finally a last set of stairs facing the opposite way of the first set.\\n2-6. Create the walls for each room on your first floor.\\nYou'll want to leave at least a one-by-two (width x height) space in each room's wall for a door facing out into the hallway.\\nThis process includes building the outer wall of the hotel as well, since this wall is also the outer wall for your rooms.\\nA good way to do this is by creating a one-block-high outline of each room to ensure you like the design before proceeding.\\nMake sure you have a room height in mind before doing this.\\n2-7. Recreate your floor plan on the next floor up.\\nYou'll repeat this process for each floor until your hotel is complete.\\n2-8. Add torches to each hallway.\\nThis will prevent your hotel from becoming too dark to navigate during night cycles.\\n2-9. Create a unique wall for the ground floor lobby.\\nFor example, you might fill in the lobby with glass rather than with stone or wood.\\n2-10. Cover the top of the hotel with a roof.\\nIf you want a simple roof, you can fill in the space between columns as though you're creating a new floor; otherwise, consider using ascending stairs or blocks that meet in the middle of your building to create a sloping roof. Once your hotel's structure is complete and filled in, you're ready to begin addressing individual rooms.\\n3. Decorating Your Hotel\\n3-1. Dress up individual rooms.\\nYou can do this in pretty much any way you like, but some common ways to do so include the following:\\nAdd a window by replacing several blocks in the outer wall with glass.\\nPlace a chest in a corner of a room.\\nAdd bookshelves, pictures, or other visually pleasing items.\\nPlace torches or other forms of lighting throughout the rooms.\\n3-2. Add beds and doors to rooms.\\nYou should have openings for each room's door, though you can add or remove these as you please to better suit your room placement once your floors are complete.\\nYou might also consider creating a doorway between some rooms to make a suite.\\nYou need at least two blocks of free space in front of you to place a bed.\\n3-3. Add decorations and furniture to the lobby.\\nThink of the lobby as the ultimate room to decorate; since it's the first thing people will see when they come to your hotel, you'll want to make sure it's well-lit with torches, as well as decorated with pictures, windows, and environmental features.\\nYou might place a pool or a tree in the middle of your hotel's lobby.\\n3-4. Consider adding landscaping items.\\nFor example, you might add a fence around the hotel, or a pond out in front of it. This step is optional, of course, and your hotel's appearance will likely change with the passage of time as you add and remove features to your liking.\\nTips\\nConsider adding a swimming pool to your hotel.\\nCombining some blocks in Minecraft might make your hotel more attractive.\\nPlace a garden on top of your hotel and a café (if you want).\\nWarnings\\nGathering the resources and reallocating them accordingly in Survival mode is extremely challenging, especially once you're more than ten or so blocks above the ground. If you do choose to build your hotel in Survival mode, make sure you have a safe area into which you can fall, as well as a bed nearby for your respawn point. You could use scaffolding to pile up. Press 'Jump' to go up whilst inside the block and press the 'Down' button below the jump button, not the backwards button.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This wikiHow teaches you how to build a basic hotel in Minecraft. While it is possible to perform this process in Survival mode, building a hotel in Creative mode will be a much less time-consuming process.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Generate an idea of what you want your hotel to look like.\", \"描述\": \"You don't have to have a comprehensive floor plan or a step-by-step blueprint, but knowing the general shape and size of your ideal hotel will help focus your building process. Some preferential criteria to keep in mind include the following:\\nNumber of floors\\nNumber of rooms per floor\\nAverage size of rooms\\nHotel layout\\nLobby design\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Start a new game of Minecraft in Creative mode.\", \"描述\": \"While Creative mode will prevent you from acquiring achievements whilst playing, it will also give you both an unlimited amount of resources and the ability to fly.\\nIf you have a specific world you'd like to load, you can take the string of letters and numbers below the \\\"Seed\\\" heading in its information box and type it into your new world's \\\"Seed\\\" box to recreate it.\\nUnder the \\\"World Type\\\" section, you can choose an option entitled \\\"Flat\\\" (PE) or \\\"Superflat\\\" (all other versions). This will create a world with no vegetation or hills, making it perfect for a quick building session.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Navigate to the area in which you'll build your hotel.\", \"描述\": \"Typically, you'll want to find a relatively flat area wherein you won't have to remove too much vegetation or perform landscaping.\\nIf you're in a \\\"Flat\\\" world type, you can start building wherever you like.\\nTo fly in Minecraft's Creative mode, simply double-press the \\\"jump\\\" button.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Select your building materials.\", \"描述\": \"To do so, press the \\\"inventory\\\" button and move materials into the hotbar at the bottom of the screen. The hotbar houses all of your in-hand items, meaning you can quickly select an item by scrolling to it (or tapping it in Minecraft PE). Some common materials include the following:\\nWood (floors)\\nStone (walls, archways, fencing)\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Outline the hotel's perimeter.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, simply remove a one-block-wide line of blocks around the area in which you wish to build your hotel. Once you have your building boundaries set, you can easily fill them in with the foundation, walls, and everything else that will comprise your hotel.\\nThis process is much easier in Creative mode since each block will only take one hit to break.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Foundation, Floors, and Rooms\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill in the entire outlined area.\", \"描述\": \"You'll be replacing every ground block inside of your hotel's perimeter with the hotel's floor material (e.g., wood). Don't worry about creating rooms or walls for now--just focus on creating the foundation on which your building will stand.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create a column of blocks in each corner of the hotel.\", \"描述\": \"Each column should be the projected height of your hotel, though you can always add more stories later if you like.\\nThe reason you do this is so that you have an estimate of what the hotel's skeleton will look like before you begin filling it in. If the hotel looks too small, too big, or awkwardly proportioned, you can revise as necessary without have to remove several hours' worth of work.\\nBe sure to place a column in every corner of your hotel if the hotel isn't rectangular.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a floor to your hotel.\", \"描述\": \"The first floor should be at least ten blocks up from the foundation so that your hotel's \\\"lobby\\\" appears spacious and comfortable. You'll create this floor by filling in the space between all of your building's columns with a building material of your choosing.\\nThis floor should be an example of what the rest of your hotel's floors look like.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add stairs to the lobby and your first floor.\", \"描述\": \"These sets of stairs will likely differ, since the stairs from the lobby to the first floor can lead straight up, while you'll likely need to create sets of stairs that loop (or double back) along the sides of subsequent floors to reach the next floor up.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"\", \"描述\": \"Stairs that double back are common in real hotels.\\nWhen adding stairs that double back, you'll need a minimum of six blocks of height, as well as eight blocks of width and four blocks of depth. This is so you can have two sets of stairs facing one way, a landing, another two sets of stairs perpendicular to the first set, another landing, and finally a last set of stairs facing the opposite way of the first set.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create the walls for each room on your first floor.\", \"描述\": \"You'll want to leave at least a one-by-two (width x height) space in each room's wall for a door facing out into the hallway.\\nThis process includes building the outer wall of the hotel as well, since this wall is also the outer wall for your rooms.\\nA good way to do this is by creating a one-block-high outline of each room to ensure you like the design before proceeding.\\nMake sure you have a room height in mind before doing this.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Recreate your floor plan on the next floor up.\", \"描述\": \"You'll repeat this process for each floor until your hotel is complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add torches to each hallway.\", \"描述\": \"This will prevent your hotel from becoming too dark to navigate during night cycles.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Create a unique wall for the ground floor lobby.\", \"描述\": \"For example, you might fill in the lobby with glass rather than with stone or wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cover the top of the hotel with a roof.\", \"描述\": \"If you want a simple roof, you can fill in the space between columns as though you're creating a new floor; otherwise, consider using ascending stairs or blocks that meet in the middle of your building to create a sloping roof. Once your hotel's structure is complete and filled in, you're ready to begin addressing individual rooms.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decorating Your Hotel\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dress up individual rooms.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this in pretty much any way you like, but some common ways to do so include the following:\\nAdd a window by replacing several blocks in the outer wall with glass.\\nPlace a chest in a corner of a room.\\nAdd bookshelves, pictures, or other visually pleasing items.\\nPlace torches or other forms of lighting throughout the rooms.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add beds and doors to rooms.\", \"描述\": \"You should have openings for each room's door, though you can add or remove these as you please to better suit your room placement once your floors are complete.\\nYou might also consider creating a doorway between some rooms to make a suite.\\nYou need at least two blocks of free space in front of you to place a bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add decorations and furniture to the lobby.\", \"描述\": \"Think of the lobby as the ultimate room to decorate; since it's the first thing people will see when they come to your hotel, you'll want to make sure it's well-lit with torches, as well as decorated with pictures, windows, and environmental features.\\nYou might place a pool or a tree in the middle of your hotel's lobby.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider adding landscaping items.\", \"描述\": \"For example, you might add a fence around the hotel, or a pond out in front of it. This step is optional, of course, and your hotel's appearance will likely change with the passage of time as you add and remove features to your liking.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Consider adding a swimming pool to your hotel.\\n\", \"Combining some blocks in Minecraft might make your hotel more attractive.\\n\", \"Place a garden on top of your hotel and a café (if you want).\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Gathering the resources and reallocating them accordingly in Survival mode is extremely challenging, especially once you're more than ten or so blocks above the ground. If you do choose to build your hotel in Survival mode, make sure you have a safe area into which you can fall, as well as a bed nearby for your respawn point. You could use scaffolding to pile up. Press 'Jump' to go up whilst inside the block and press the 'Down' button below the jump button, not the backwards button.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,389
How to Build a House
1. Finding a Location 1-1. Select a desirable place for your house. There are many factors to consider when finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place you'd like to live long-term and keep in mind things like: . Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane, intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions. . Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or pilings. . If you intend to have electric power, potable water, telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your location. . If you plan to raise children or have kids, make sure good quality schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical help is nearby. 1-2. Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it. This may be a hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment just as important as home building. Decide how you're going to pay for your building project going forward and start that process with the land. Some home builders will elect to get a construction loan to purchase the land and secure funding for the building project. This requires that you enter into a contract with a builder or a contractor, and the loan must reference that builder's resume and serve as a contract between you and the builder, as well as a source of funding for the project. To do this, you'll need to wait until you've hired and vetted a builder before purchasing the land. 1-3. Have the property surveyed This is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property, or the city's. This will be useful as you move forward with the building process. 1-4. Consider access issues. On large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will affect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities. Pay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts or pipes under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides. 2. Designing Your Home 2-1. Design your own home, or consult an architect Architects and engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract their services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process. Keep in mind that when you're working with an architect, the design process usually takes around 6 months. First, they'll work with you to create a schematic design, or a rough draft of where everything will go in the home. Then, they'll create more detailed plans, and there may be a revision process if you want to make any changes to the design. Before you hire or consult an architect, find out what management services the firm may or may not provide. Some architecture firms will help hire contractors they know and trust, as well as consult and inspect the contractor's work as it progresses, making necessary revisions and additions as the work progresses. This can be a significant headache relief in the process. Before building, you'll need to submit plans to the city or county building commission for approval. Unless you're an experienced architect, it'll be very difficult to produce the necessary to-scale production drawings and engineering specs necessary for approval. To save time, energy, and money, it's recommended that you consult a professional and work alongside them to design the home you want. 2-2. Design the living spaces. The fun part of designing a home is imagining your new life in your new space. Spend some time researching pre-drawn floor plans for inspiration and consider using them as a guide for your own space. Home building guides are commonly available for free online. Give lots of thought to what kind of rooms you want, the number of bedrooms that will be necessary for your family, and what sort of a style you want in the rooms you'll be spending the most time in. For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed. In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's mind. Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a den, or a play room. 2-3. Design the utility areas with an eye toward function. For family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage can be a real help in managing day to day chores. Planning out the necessary house-running spaces is a critical part of the design process. It's also important to design them to be as easy-to-wire and outfit with plumbing as possible, making it important to consult an architectural engineer when designing the home. Carefully design your: Kitchen Garage Laundry room Storage areas 2-4. Place windows with the maximum energy efficiency in mind. Part aesthetics and part energy-efficiency, designing your home with an eye toward sunlight will ensure that your home stays full of warm radiant light when it needs it the most. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view and at an angle that maximizes the natural lighting when you'll want it most. Energy efficiency should be part of your home design from the very beginning. It might be more fun to think about things like solar panels and other new technology, but things like proper window installation and good insulation are really the fabric of sustainability. Kitchens may benefit the most from exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results. Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the north/south face of your house will also help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates. If you live on the northern hemisphere, build your windows facing the south. If you live on the southern hemisphere, build your windows facing the north. 2-5. Prepare to tackle water drainage issues with the proper design. Be aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your home, especially in colder climates. Freezing pipes and foundation damage can result from a failure to plan at this stage. You want to keep your basement dry and lessen the chance that you will have damp wood, which invites termites in any climate. Simple swales or grassy ditches will go a long way in controlling surface water drainage. 3. Getting the Necessary Permits 3-1. Secure a construction loan. If you haven't already started this process when securing the land, you'll need to figure out a way to fund the project and a construction loan is the most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling out a loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a credit report. The completed loan application will need to include information like: The type of loan requested The amount of money requested Your current living situation Your social security number W-2 info 3-2. Get construction insurance. To engage in a home building project, you'll need three types of construction-related insurance, some of which may be provided by the builder, some of which won't, depending on the state you live in and the nature of the contract you've signed. Typically, it's required that you provide: to cover against unforeseen loss including damages from fire, accident, vandalism and malicious mischief. is sometimes provided by the builder and sometimes not. It is a comprehensive liability coverage against accident on the workplace. You should only hire builders who provide this insurance themselves, as it can be quite expensive and could be indicative of shoddy workmanship if a builder doesn't provide it. is necessary if your builder hires their own workers. If the work is subcontracted (a common practice) you'll need to provide workman's comp and the builder must write a letter acknowledging that they do not have employees and will not provide compensation. 3-3. Secure the proper construction permits. A building permit is a basic requirement in many areas, particularly for permanent construction. To obtain this, you'll need to provide detailed architectural diagrams, engineering load specs, and other materials to your state's Department of Housing. It's likely you'll also need the following to comply with local codes and zoning requirements by obtaining: A septic tank permit An electrical permit A plumbing permit A mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit You may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental and/or impact permit. Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help to work details out in the environmental permitting process. 3-4. Prepare an Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB). This is the breakdown of each particular cost of construction of the home. The foundation, lumber, framing, plumbing, heating, electrical, painting, and builder's profit, etc. When you hire a builder, they will usually complete this form to show you exactly what it will cost to build your new home. Price building materials in the area. How much is the cost of wood in the prospective area? Labor? Vinyl? It's helpful to give some thought to how much the process will end up costing, aside from the land purchase itself. Try to get a rough estimate of how much it'll cost to build the kind of house you want to build at the location you're considering. 3-5. Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself. Building a house involves several specific trades to ensure quality work, so it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform things you're unable to do at an expert-level. You can probably paint the house and put up drywall yourself, but maybe you want to hire those jobs out. Try to find an economic and practical balance between doing projects yourself to save money and hiring out more intricate and difficult work. Consider hiring out: to clear and grade the land, prepping it for building to lay the foundation to perform rough carpentry, frame up the walls, and install the trusses or stick-framed rafters to install the roof and insulate the house to do the difficult interior work of outfitting the home for living for interior design work to lay the carpet, hardwood, or tile 3-6. Consider hiring a builder on contract. Everything will be made easier if you hire an experienced builder to oversee the project. You won't need to worry about doing everything yourself, hiring out particular tasks, and securing the permits yourself. It's also much easier to secure a construction loan if you're working with an experienced builder who can include a statement, resume, banking and experience references, a line item cost breakdown of expected costs (an ECB), a materials list, and a construction contract. The contract should include: The individual responsibilities of each party The expected date of the beginning and ending of the project The payment expected by the builder A completed Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB), signed and dated Provisions for changes 4. Breaking Ground 4-1. Lay the foundation. After a site crew excavates the plot, you'll begin the work of laying the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size of your house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, and whether or not your home will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation is concrete block. The excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon. 4-2. Pour the concrete foundation These are used to distribute the weight evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the perimeter of the home. Build the form work and fill in with concrete. The form work is basically a mold for concrete, used to pour into and remove after the concrete has set. Alternatively, a block foundation can be laid which won't be removed, in which case you'll inlay rebar into the block and fill in the gaps in the block with concrete. The thickness of the foundation should be determined carefully by a structural engineer, taking into consideration the height of the wall and the load it will be required to bear, both in terms of the building itself as well as the forces of gravity, wind, and earth that affect the structure. 4-3. Set up building lines. This means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are square. 4-4. Install your chosen type of floor There are two common floor types, called "slab on grade" or "pier and beam/joist" floors. Before pouring the slab floor, you need to make sure you've installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed. After the slab is poured, it'll be too late to adjust. For a slab-on-grade floor, form up the footing to the proper specs and lay rebar. Generally, these floors are made on concrete block foundations. After installing your plumbing rough-ins, backfill around the foundation with dirt and gravel, compacting it appropriately. At this point, you may also want to pre-treat for termites and install moisture barrier. For off-grade or above-grade floors, lay out and install wooden flooring piers and install your floor joist framing system to the proper specifications. Install subfloor/finish floor decking. 5. Building the Walls and Roof 5-1. Frame the walls You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts. As you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing. Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed. 5-2. Plumb the walls and brace them securely Install sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line. 5-3. Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses You may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home. 5-4. Set each truss in the correct location. Generally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak. Install diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight. 5-5. Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter. Build outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards. In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work. 5-6. Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier. To make sure the elements don't set you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier. 5-7. Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors. Many locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able. 5-8. Install your final roof You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates. 6. Starting on the Interior 6-1. Install pipes for potable water These can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done. 6-2. Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping. Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush. 6-3. Rough-in electrical outlets Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device. Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush. 6-4. Install insulation Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than colder areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls. Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage. 6-5. Install your ceilings Gypsum wallboard made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings. 7. Installing the Essentials 7-1. Install plumbing fixtures as necessary Install the bathtub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored. 7-2. Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls Traditionally, builders will use gypsum wallboard, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wallboard, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable. 7-3. Place wall trim Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation. 7-4. Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely, you will want to prime wallboard, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners. Be sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed. 7-5. Install cabinets and other mill work You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies. 7-6. Install flooring Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished. 7-7. Install appliances and have the utilities turned on. To start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you'll want to move in and start enjoying your new home. Tips Building codes require various inspections at different stages of construction, so they are not included in steps. Some basic inspections may include: Foundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings Slab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab Framing inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other roofing Electrical rough-in Plumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test) Percolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near streams and bodies of water. Mechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation) Final inspections on each scope of work Coordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility. Use a project plan to organize your thoughts and timelines. This process can take anywhere from a few months to a few years, depending on the size of the home, the availability of contractors, how much time you are willing to commit, etc. Warnings It's not going to be cheap! You may build in stages and add on were that planned and depending on what is allowed by permits and inspections. In cities and developments one is often not allowed to live in a mobile home or in a garage; a small house built first could eventually become a garage if floors were so designed, or a 4 room house can become a 6 room house, by additions, attics can be finished years later, etc. Don't end up with a half finished house and nowhere to live and very little money. Plan your finances in advance.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding a Location\\n1-1. Select a desirable place for your house.\\nThere are many factors to consider when finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place you'd like to live long-term and keep in mind things like:\\n\\n. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane, intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.\\n. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or pilings.\\n. If you intend to have electric power, potable water, telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your location.\\n. If you plan to raise children or have kids, make sure good quality schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical help is nearby.\\n1-2. Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it.\\nThis may be a hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment just as important as home building. Decide how you're going to pay for your building project going forward and start that process with the land.\\nSome home builders will elect to get a construction loan to purchase the land and secure funding for the building project. This requires that you enter into a contract with a builder or a contractor, and the loan must reference that builder's resume and serve as a contract between you and the builder, as well as a source of funding for the project. To do this, you'll need to wait until you've hired and vetted a builder before purchasing the land.\\n1-3. Have the property surveyed\\nThis is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property, or the city's. This will be useful as you move forward with the building process.\\n1-4. Consider access issues.\\nOn large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will affect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities.\\nPay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts or pipes under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.\\n2. Designing Your Home\\n2-1. Design your own home, or consult an architect\\nArchitects and engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract their services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process.\\nKeep in mind that when you're working with an architect, the design process usually takes around 6 months. First, they'll work with you to create a schematic design, or a rough draft of where everything will go in the home. Then, they'll create more detailed plans, and there may be a revision process if you want to make any changes to the design.\\nBefore you hire or consult an architect, find out what management services the firm may or may not provide. Some architecture firms will help hire contractors they know and trust, as well as consult and inspect the contractor's work as it progresses, making necessary revisions and additions as the work progresses. This can be a significant headache relief in the process.\\nBefore building, you'll need to submit plans to the city or county building commission for approval. Unless you're an experienced architect, it'll be very difficult to produce the necessary to-scale production drawings and engineering specs necessary for approval. To save time, energy, and money, it's recommended that you consult a professional and work alongside them to design the home you want.\\n2-2. Design the living spaces.\\nThe fun part of designing a home is imagining your new life in your new space. Spend some time researching pre-drawn floor plans for inspiration and consider using them as a guide for your own space. Home building guides are commonly available for free online. Give lots of thought to what kind of rooms you want, the number of bedrooms that will be necessary for your family, and what sort of a style you want in the rooms you'll be spending the most time in.\\n\\n For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.\\n In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's mind.\\n Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a den, or a play room.\\n2-3. Design the utility areas with an eye toward function.\\nFor family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage can be a real help in managing day to day chores. Planning out the necessary house-running spaces is a critical part of the design process. It's also important to design them to be as easy-to-wire and outfit with plumbing as possible, making it important to consult an architectural engineer when designing the home. Carefully design your:\\nKitchen\\nGarage\\nLaundry room\\nStorage areas\\n2-4. Place windows with the maximum energy efficiency in mind.\\nPart aesthetics and part energy-efficiency, designing your home with an eye toward sunlight will ensure that your home stays full of warm radiant light when it needs it the most. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view and at an angle that maximizes the natural lighting when you'll want it most.\\nEnergy efficiency should be part of your home design from the very beginning. It might be more fun to think about things like solar panels and other new technology, but things like proper window installation and good insulation are really the fabric of sustainability.\\nKitchens may benefit the most from exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results. Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the north/south face of your house will also help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates.\\nIf you live on the northern hemisphere, build your windows facing the south. If you live on the southern hemisphere, build your windows facing the north.\\n2-5. Prepare to tackle water drainage issues with the proper design.\\nBe aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your home, especially in colder climates. Freezing pipes and foundation damage can result from a failure to plan at this stage. You want to keep your basement dry and lessen the chance that you will have damp wood, which invites termites in any climate. Simple swales or grassy ditches will go a long way in controlling surface water drainage.\\n3. Getting the Necessary Permits\\n3-1. Secure a construction loan.\\nIf you haven't already started this process when securing the land, you'll need to figure out a way to fund the project and a construction loan is the most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling out a loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a credit report. The completed loan application will need to include information like:\\nThe type of loan requested\\nThe amount of money requested\\nYour current living situation\\nYour social security number\\nW-2 info\\n3-2. Get construction insurance.\\nTo engage in a home building project, you'll need three types of construction-related insurance, some of which may be provided by the builder, some of which won't, depending on the state you live in and the nature of the contract you've signed. Typically, it's required that you provide:\\n\\n to cover against unforeseen loss including damages from fire, accident, vandalism and malicious mischief.\\n is sometimes provided by the builder and sometimes not. It is a comprehensive liability coverage against accident on the workplace. You should only hire builders who provide this insurance themselves, as it can be quite expensive and could be indicative of shoddy workmanship if a builder doesn't provide it.\\n is necessary if your builder hires their own workers. If the work is subcontracted (a common practice) you'll need to provide workman's comp and the builder must write a letter acknowledging that they do not have employees and will not provide compensation.\\n3-3. Secure the proper construction permits.\\nA building permit is a basic requirement in many areas, particularly for permanent construction. To obtain this, you'll need to provide detailed architectural diagrams, engineering load specs, and other materials to your state's Department of Housing. It's likely you'll also need the following to comply with local codes and zoning requirements by obtaining:\\nA septic tank permit\\nAn electrical permit\\nA plumbing permit\\nA mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit\\nYou may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental and/or impact permit. Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help to work details out in the environmental permitting process.\\n3-4. Prepare an Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB).\\nThis is the breakdown of each particular cost of construction of the home. The foundation, lumber, framing, plumbing, heating, electrical, painting, and builder's profit, etc. When you hire a builder, they will usually complete this form to show you exactly what it will cost to build your new home.\\nPrice building materials in the area. How much is the cost of wood in the prospective area? Labor? Vinyl? It's helpful to give some thought to how much the process will end up costing, aside from the land purchase itself. Try to get a rough estimate of how much it'll cost to build the kind of house you want to build at the location you're considering.\\n3-5. Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself.\\nBuilding a house involves several specific trades to ensure quality work, so it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform things you're unable to do at an expert-level. You can probably paint the house and put up drywall yourself, but maybe you want to hire those jobs out. Try to find an economic and practical balance between doing projects yourself to save money and hiring out more intricate and difficult work. Consider hiring out:\\n\\n to clear and grade the land, prepping it for building\\n to lay the foundation\\n to perform rough carpentry, frame up the walls, and install the trusses or stick-framed rafters\\n to install the roof and insulate the house\\n to do the difficult interior work of outfitting the home for living\\n for interior design work\\n to lay the carpet, hardwood, or tile\\n3-6. Consider hiring a builder on contract.\\nEverything will be made easier if you hire an experienced builder to oversee the project. You won't need to worry about doing everything yourself, hiring out particular tasks, and securing the permits yourself. It's also much easier to secure a construction loan if you're working with an experienced builder who can include a statement, resume, banking and experience references, a line item cost breakdown of expected costs (an ECB), a materials list, and a construction contract. The contract should include:\\nThe individual responsibilities of each party\\nThe expected date of the beginning and ending of the project\\nThe payment expected by the builder\\nA completed Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB), signed and dated\\nProvisions for changes\\n4. Breaking Ground\\n4-1. Lay the foundation.\\nAfter a site crew excavates the plot, you'll begin the work of laying the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size of your house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, and whether or not your home will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation is concrete block.\\nThe excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon.\\n4-2. Pour the concrete foundation\\nThese are used to distribute the weight evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the perimeter of the home.\\nBuild the form work and fill in with concrete. The form work is basically a mold for concrete, used to pour into and remove after the concrete has set. Alternatively, a block foundation can be laid which won't be removed, in which case you'll inlay rebar into the block and fill in the gaps in the block with concrete.\\nThe thickness of the foundation should be determined carefully by a structural engineer, taking into consideration the height of the wall and the load it will be required to bear, both in terms of the building itself as well as the forces of gravity, wind, and earth that affect the structure.\\n4-3. Set up building lines.\\nThis means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are square.\\n4-4. Install your chosen type of floor\\nThere are two common floor types, called \\\"slab on grade\\\" or \\\"pier and beam/joist\\\" floors. Before pouring the slab floor, you need to make sure you've installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed. After the slab is poured, it'll be too late to adjust.\\nFor a slab-on-grade floor, form up the footing to the proper specs and lay rebar. Generally, these floors are made on concrete block foundations. After installing your plumbing rough-ins, backfill around the foundation with dirt and gravel, compacting it appropriately. At this point, you may also want to pre-treat for termites and install moisture barrier.\\nFor off-grade or above-grade floors, lay out and install wooden flooring piers and install your floor joist framing system to the proper specifications. Install subfloor/finish floor decking.\\n5. Building the Walls and Roof\\n5-1. Frame the walls\\nYou will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts.\\nAs you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing.\\nUse tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.\\n5-2. Plumb the walls and brace them securely\\nInstall sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.\\n5-3. Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses\\nYou may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home.\\n5-4. Set each truss in the correct location.\\nGenerally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak.\\nInstall diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight.\\n5-5. Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter.\\nBuild outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards.\\nIn areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.\\n5-6. Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier.\\nTo make sure the elements don't set you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier.\\n5-7. Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors.\\nMany locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able.\\n5-8. Install your final roof\\nYou may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.\\n6. Starting on the Interior\\n6-1. Install pipes for potable water\\nThese can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.\\n6-2. Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping.\\nStub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush.\\n6-3. Rough-in electrical outlets\\nMost likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device.\\nCommonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.\\n6-4. Install insulation\\nInsulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than colder areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls.\\nWalls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage.\\n6-5. Install your ceilings\\nGypsum wallboard made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.\\n7. Installing the Essentials\\n7-1. Install plumbing fixtures as necessary\\nInstall the bathtub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.\\n7-2. Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls\\nTraditionally, builders will use gypsum wallboard, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wallboard, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.\\n7-3. Place wall trim\\nPut up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.\\n7-4. Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it.\\nMost likely, you will want to prime wallboard, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners.\\nBe sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.\\n7-5. Install cabinets and other mill work\\nYou will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.\\n7-6. Install flooring\\nNote that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.\\n7-7. Install appliances and have the utilities turned on.\\nTo start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you'll want to move in and start enjoying your new home.\\nTips\\nBuilding codes require various inspections at different stages of construction, so they are not included in steps. Some basic inspections may include:\\n\\nFoundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings\\nSlab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab\\nFraming inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other roofing\\nElectrical rough-in\\nPlumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test)\\nPercolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near streams and bodies of water.\\nMechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation)\\nFinal inspections on each scope of work\\nCoordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility.\\nUse a project plan to organize your thoughts and timelines.\\nThis process can take anywhere from a few months to a few years, depending on the size of the home, the availability of contractors, how much time you are willing to commit, etc.\\nWarnings\\nIt's not going to be cheap! You may build in stages and add on were that planned and depending on what is allowed by permits and inspections. In cities and developments one is often not allowed to live in a mobile home or in a garage; a small house built first could eventually become a garage if floors were so designed, or a 4 room house can become a 6 room house, by additions, attics can be finished years later, etc. Don't end up with a half finished house and nowhere to live and very little money. Plan your finances in advance.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your dream home can be one of the most exciting and rewarding projects you can undertake. Getting the opportunity to plan out each step of the process and make the decisions about your building project is a big responsibility, and can be overwhelming for even the most experienced do-it-yourselfers. Taking the scope of the project into account before you get started can help make the process go a lot more smoothly. Learn the proper ways to find the right location, design your home, acquire the correct permits, and breaking ground. See Step 1 to learn how to get started building your own house.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding a Location\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select a desirable place for your house.\", \"描述\": \"There are many factors to consider when finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place you'd like to live long-term and keep in mind things like:\\n\\n. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane, intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.\\n. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or pilings.\\n. If you intend to have electric power, potable water, telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your location.\\n. If you plan to raise children or have kids, make sure good quality schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical help is nearby.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it.\", \"描述\": \"This may be a hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment just as important as home building. Decide how you're going to pay for your building project going forward and start that process with the land.\\nSome home builders will elect to get a construction loan to purchase the land and secure funding for the building project. This requires that you enter into a contract with a builder or a contractor, and the loan must reference that builder's resume and serve as a contract between you and the builder, as well as a source of funding for the project. To do this, you'll need to wait until you've hired and vetted a builder before purchasing the land.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have the property surveyed\", \"描述\": \"This is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property, or the city's. This will be useful as you move forward with the building process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Consider access issues.\", \"描述\": \"On large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will affect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities.\\nPay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts or pipes under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Designing Your Home\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Design your own home, or consult an architect\", \"描述\": \"Architects and engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract their services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process.\\nKeep in mind that when you're working with an architect, the design process usually takes around 6 months. First, they'll work with you to create a schematic design, or a rough draft of where everything will go in the home. Then, they'll create more detailed plans, and there may be a revision process if you want to make any changes to the design.\\nBefore you hire or consult an architect, find out what management services the firm may or may not provide. Some architecture firms will help hire contractors they know and trust, as well as consult and inspect the contractor's work as it progresses, making necessary revisions and additions as the work progresses. This can be a significant headache relief in the process.\\nBefore building, you'll need to submit plans to the city or county building commission for approval. Unless you're an experienced architect, it'll be very difficult to produce the necessary to-scale production drawings and engineering specs necessary for approval. To save time, energy, and money, it's recommended that you consult a professional and work alongside them to design the home you want.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Design the living spaces.\", \"描述\": \"The fun part of designing a home is imagining your new life in your new space. Spend some time researching pre-drawn floor plans for inspiration and consider using them as a guide for your own space. Home building guides are commonly available for free online. Give lots of thought to what kind of rooms you want, the number of bedrooms that will be necessary for your family, and what sort of a style you want in the rooms you'll be spending the most time in.\\n\\n For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.\\n In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's mind.\\n Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a den, or a play room.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Design the utility areas with an eye toward function.\", \"描述\": \"For family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage can be a real help in managing day to day chores. Planning out the necessary house-running spaces is a critical part of the design process. It's also important to design them to be as easy-to-wire and outfit with plumbing as possible, making it important to consult an architectural engineer when designing the home. Carefully design your:\\nKitchen\\nGarage\\nLaundry room\\nStorage areas\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place windows with the maximum energy efficiency in mind.\", \"描述\": \"Part aesthetics and part energy-efficiency, designing your home with an eye toward sunlight will ensure that your home stays full of warm radiant light when it needs it the most. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view and at an angle that maximizes the natural lighting when you'll want it most.\\nEnergy efficiency should be part of your home design from the very beginning. It might be more fun to think about things like solar panels and other new technology, but things like proper window installation and good insulation are really the fabric of sustainability.\\nKitchens may benefit the most from exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results. Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the north/south face of your house will also help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates.\\nIf you live on the northern hemisphere, build your windows facing the south. If you live on the southern hemisphere, build your windows facing the north.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Prepare to tackle water drainage issues with the proper design.\", \"描述\": \"Be aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your home, especially in colder climates. Freezing pipes and foundation damage can result from a failure to plan at this stage. You want to keep your basement dry and lessen the chance that you will have damp wood, which invites termites in any climate. Simple swales or grassy ditches will go a long way in controlling surface water drainage.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Getting the Necessary Permits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Secure a construction loan.\", \"描述\": \"If you haven't already started this process when securing the land, you'll need to figure out a way to fund the project and a construction loan is the most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling out a loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a credit report. The completed loan application will need to include information like:\\nThe type of loan requested\\nThe amount of money requested\\nYour current living situation\\nYour social security number\\nW-2 info\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get construction insurance.\", \"描述\": \"To engage in a home building project, you'll need three types of construction-related insurance, some of which may be provided by the builder, some of which won't, depending on the state you live in and the nature of the contract you've signed. Typically, it's required that you provide:\\n\\n to cover against unforeseen loss including damages from fire, accident, vandalism and malicious mischief.\\n is sometimes provided by the builder and sometimes not. It is a comprehensive liability coverage against accident on the workplace. You should only hire builders who provide this insurance themselves, as it can be quite expensive and could be indicative of shoddy workmanship if a builder doesn't provide it.\\n is necessary if your builder hires their own workers. If the work is subcontracted (a common practice) you'll need to provide workman's comp and the builder must write a letter acknowledging that they do not have employees and will not provide compensation.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Secure the proper construction permits.\", \"描述\": \"A building permit is a basic requirement in many areas, particularly for permanent construction. To obtain this, you'll need to provide detailed architectural diagrams, engineering load specs, and other materials to your state's Department of Housing. It's likely you'll also need the following to comply with local codes and zoning requirements by obtaining:\\nA septic tank permit\\nAn electrical permit\\nA plumbing permit\\nA mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit\\nYou may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental and/or impact permit. Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help to work details out in the environmental permitting process.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare an Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB).\", \"描述\": \"This is the breakdown of each particular cost of construction of the home. The foundation, lumber, framing, plumbing, heating, electrical, painting, and builder's profit, etc. When you hire a builder, they will usually complete this form to show you exactly what it will cost to build your new home.\\nPrice building materials in the area. How much is the cost of wood in the prospective area? Labor? Vinyl? It's helpful to give some thought to how much the process will end up costing, aside from the land purchase itself. Try to get a rough estimate of how much it'll cost to build the kind of house you want to build at the location you're considering.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Building a house involves several specific trades to ensure quality work, so it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform things you're unable to do at an expert-level. You can probably paint the house and put up drywall yourself, but maybe you want to hire those jobs out. Try to find an economic and practical balance between doing projects yourself to save money and hiring out more intricate and difficult work. Consider hiring out:\\n\\n to clear and grade the land, prepping it for building\\n to lay the foundation\\n to perform rough carpentry, frame up the walls, and install the trusses or stick-framed rafters\\n to install the roof and insulate the house\\n to do the difficult interior work of outfitting the home for living\\n for interior design work\\n to lay the carpet, hardwood, or tile\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Consider hiring a builder on contract.\", \"描述\": \"Everything will be made easier if you hire an experienced builder to oversee the project. You won't need to worry about doing everything yourself, hiring out particular tasks, and securing the permits yourself. It's also much easier to secure a construction loan if you're working with an experienced builder who can include a statement, resume, banking and experience references, a line item cost breakdown of expected costs (an ECB), a materials list, and a construction contract. The contract should include:\\nThe individual responsibilities of each party\\nThe expected date of the beginning and ending of the project\\nThe payment expected by the builder\\nA completed Estimated Cost Breakdown (ECB), signed and dated\\nProvisions for changes\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Breaking Ground\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"After a site crew excavates the plot, you'll begin the work of laying the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size of your house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, and whether or not your home will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation is concrete block.\\nThe excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pour the concrete foundation\", \"描述\": \"These are used to distribute the weight evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the perimeter of the home.\\nBuild the form work and fill in with concrete. The form work is basically a mold for concrete, used to pour into and remove after the concrete has set. Alternatively, a block foundation can be laid which won't be removed, in which case you'll inlay rebar into the block and fill in the gaps in the block with concrete.\\nThe thickness of the foundation should be determined carefully by a structural engineer, taking into consideration the height of the wall and the load it will be required to bear, both in terms of the building itself as well as the forces of gravity, wind, and earth that affect the structure.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set up building lines.\", \"描述\": \"This means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are square.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install your chosen type of floor\", \"描述\": \"There are two common floor types, called \\\"slab on grade\\\" or \\\"pier and beam/joist\\\" floors. Before pouring the slab floor, you need to make sure you've installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed. After the slab is poured, it'll be too late to adjust.\\nFor a slab-on-grade floor, form up the footing to the proper specs and lay rebar. Generally, these floors are made on concrete block foundations. After installing your plumbing rough-ins, backfill around the foundation with dirt and gravel, compacting it appropriately. At this point, you may also want to pre-treat for termites and install moisture barrier.\\nFor off-grade or above-grade floors, lay out and install wooden flooring piers and install your floor joist framing system to the proper specifications. Install subfloor/finish floor decking.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Building the Walls and Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Frame the walls\", \"描述\": \"You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts.\\nAs you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing.\\nUse tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plumb the walls and brace them securely\", \"描述\": \"Install sheathing if required. Otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch (5 cm by 10 cm) nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses\", \"描述\": \"You may want to stick frame your roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you want a usable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs and dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose something that works well for your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Set each truss in the correct location.\", \"描述\": \"Generally, this means 24 inches (61.0 cm) apart from one another, sometimes 16 inches (40.6 cm) for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near the peak.\\nInstall diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof frame from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent and straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter.\", \"描述\": \"Build outlookers to support the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch (2.5 cm x 15 cm) tongue and groove boards.\\nIn areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier.\", \"描述\": \"To make sure the elements don't set you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your roof even before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound (6.8 or 13.8 kg) roofing felt tar paper and simplex nails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors.\", \"描述\": \"Many locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edges and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Install your final roof\", \"描述\": \"You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Starting on the Interior\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install pipes for potable water\", \"描述\": \"These can be capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping.\", \"描述\": \"Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Rough-in electrical outlets\", \"描述\": \"Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device.\\nCommonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install insulation\", \"描述\": \"Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates will use substantially less insulation in the walls than colder areas. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists and walls.\\nWalls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install your ceilings\", \"描述\": \"Gypsum wallboard made of drywall or sheetrock is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including acoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Installing the Essentials\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install plumbing fixtures as necessary\", \"描述\": \"Install the bathtub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls\", \"描述\": \"Traditionally, builders will use gypsum wallboard, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are generally jacked ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular mopping when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wallboard, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place wall trim\", \"描述\": \"Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Pre-finishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it.\", \"描述\": \"Most likely, you will want to prime wallboard, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-in with brushes around appurtenances and in corners.\\nBe sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install cabinets and other mill work\", \"描述\": \"You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install flooring\", \"描述\": \"Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving ⁄8 inch (1.0 cm) for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install appliances and have the utilities turned on.\", \"描述\": \"To start checking to make sure everything is working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on finishing the house to a state at which you'll want to move in and start enjoying your new home.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Building codes require various inspections at different stages of construction, so they are not included in steps. Some basic inspections may include:\\n\\nFoundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings\\nSlab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab\\nFraming inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other roofing\\nElectrical rough-in\\nPlumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test)\\nPercolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near streams and bodies of water.\\nMechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation)\\nFinal inspections on each scope of work\\n\", \"Coordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility.\\nUse a project plan to organize your thoughts and timelines.\\n\", \"This process can take anywhere from a few months to a few years, depending on the size of the home, the availability of contractors, how much time you are willing to commit, etc.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"It's not going to be cheap! You may build in stages and add on were that planned and depending on what is allowed by permits and inspections. In cities and developments one is often not allowed to live in a mobile home or in a garage; a small house built first could eventually become a garage if floors were so designed, or a 4 room house can become a 6 room house, by additions, attics can be finished years later, etc. Don't end up with a half finished house and nowhere to live and very little money. Plan your finances in advance.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,390
How to Build a House in Skyrim
1. Steps 1-1. Purchase and install Hearthfire. This add-on can be purchased directly from The Elder Scrolls website if you use a PC or, for console gamers, from the PlayStation Store or Xbox Live. 1-2. Speak with a steward in Morthal, Dawnstar or Falkreath and buy a plot of land. 5000 gold will be removed from your inventory. You may have to complete a few quests in each respective city before the jarl will allow you to purchase land. If you are having trouble deciding where you want to build your house, keep in mind that buying one plot does not stop you from buying the other two. 1-3. Follow the quest marker to the site of your new home. There you will find what you need to build your home: a drafting table, a carpenter’s workbench and a treasure chest filled with the materials you will need to begin building your house. 1-4. Read The Beginner’s Guide to Homesteading. This book, found on top of the carpenter’s workbench, will help you understand how to build your new home. 1-5. Use the drafting table and select “Small Home.” This will make the various components of the small home available to build with the carpenter’s workbench. Selecting projects to build on the drafting table does not use resources, so do not worry if you do not have all of the wood, iron, and so on that you will need. 1-6. Use the carpenter’s workbench and build the components of your small home. Once your small home is built, you can decorate the interior using the carpenter’s workbench found inside. 1-7. Continue adding onto your home by selecting “Main Hall” from the drafting table. This will greatly increase the size of your house and turn the small home structure into an entryway. Being a much larger structure, the main hall will require you to gather additional materials. 1-8. Acquire the needed materials to continue building. Lumber can be bought from any of the many lumber mills in Skyrim, including Deadwood Mill in Falkreath, Agna’s Mill which is west of Windhelm or the Solitude Sawmill in Haafingar. Clay can be found in close proximity to your home. Look for a reddish-brown deposit on the ground and mine it just like other minerals in Skyrim. Quarried stone can also be found close to each homestead. Look for a grey deposit against stones or mountains. As with clay, you will need a pickaxe in your inventory to mine it. 1-9. Complete the main hall and choose which wings you want to add onto your home. These additions can bring both added utility and a sense of personalization to your character’s dwelling. On the north wing, you can choose from a storage room, a trophy room or an alchemy laboratory. On the west wing, you can choose from a greenhouse, a spare bedroom or an enchanter’s tower. On the east wing, you can choose from a kitchen, a library or an armory. 1-10. Decorate the inside of your main hall and wings using the carpenter’s workbench, exactly like you decorated the small home. When you are selecting which item to build, the needed components will be listed. There are many aesthetic options for decorating, including wall-mounted horker heads and iron chandeliers. There are also many functional options for decorating, including enchanting and alchemy tables. Tips Once your home is built, you can hire a steward, invite your spouse to move in and even adopt children. When building and furnishing your house, you will have to keep a large stock of iron. 238-301 ingots are needed to build and fully furnish your home, depending on your choices for the wings. Build your home to complement the kind of character you play. For example, a warrior character would make better use of an armory, whereas a thief character would enjoy a garden because she could use the ingredients for poisons. Warnings Once you build a wing, there is no going back. Plan carefully to avoid regretting your decisions.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:42", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Purchase and install Hearthfire.\\nThis add-on can be purchased directly from The Elder Scrolls website if you use a PC or, for console gamers, from the PlayStation Store or Xbox Live.\\n1-2. Speak with a steward in Morthal, Dawnstar or Falkreath and buy a plot of land.\\n5000 gold will be removed from your inventory.\\nYou may have to complete a few quests in each respective city before the jarl will allow you to purchase land.\\nIf you are having trouble deciding where you want to build your house, keep in mind that buying one plot does not stop you from buying the other two.\\n1-3. Follow the quest marker to the site of your new home.\\nThere you will find what you need to build your home: a drafting table, a carpenter’s workbench and a treasure chest filled with the materials you will need to begin building your house.\\n1-4. Read The Beginner’s Guide to Homesteading.\\nThis book, found on top of the carpenter’s workbench, will help you understand how to build your new home.\\n1-5. Use the drafting table and select “Small Home.”\\nThis will make the various components of the small home available to build with the carpenter’s workbench.\\nSelecting projects to build on the drafting table does not use resources, so do not worry if you do not have all of the wood, iron, and so on that you will need.\\n1-6. Use the carpenter’s workbench and build the components of your small home.\\nOnce your small home is built, you can decorate the interior using the carpenter’s workbench found inside.\\n1-7. Continue adding onto your home by selecting “Main Hall” from the drafting table.\\nThis will greatly increase the size of your house and turn the small home structure into an entryway.\\nBeing a much larger structure, the main hall will require you to gather additional materials.\\n1-8. Acquire the needed materials to continue building.\\nLumber can be bought from any of the many lumber mills in Skyrim, including Deadwood Mill in Falkreath, Agna’s Mill which is west of Windhelm or the Solitude Sawmill in Haafingar.\\nClay can be found in close proximity to your home. Look for a reddish-brown deposit on the ground and mine it just like other minerals in Skyrim.\\nQuarried stone can also be found close to each homestead. Look for a grey deposit against stones or mountains. As with clay, you will need a pickaxe in your inventory to mine it.\\n1-9. Complete the main hall and choose which wings you want to add onto your home.\\nThese additions can bring both added utility and a sense of personalization to your character’s dwelling.\\nOn the north wing, you can choose from a storage room, a trophy room or an alchemy laboratory.\\nOn the west wing, you can choose from a greenhouse, a spare bedroom or an enchanter’s tower.\\nOn the east wing, you can choose from a kitchen, a library or an armory.\\n1-10. Decorate the inside of your main hall and wings using the carpenter’s workbench, exactly like you decorated the small home.\\nWhen you are selecting which item to build, the needed components will be listed.\\nThere are many aesthetic options for decorating, including wall-mounted horker heads and iron chandeliers.\\nThere are also many functional options for decorating, including enchanting and alchemy tables.\\nTips\\nOnce your home is built, you can hire a steward, invite your spouse to move in and even adopt children.\\nWhen building and furnishing your house, you will have to keep a large stock of iron. 238-301 ingots are needed to build and fully furnish your home, depending on your choices for the wings.\\nBuild your home to complement the kind of character you play. For example, a warrior character would make better use of an armory, whereas a thief character would enjoy a garden because she could use the ingredients for poisons.\\nWarnings\\nOnce you build a wing, there is no going back. Plan carefully to avoid regretting your decisions.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Wandering the frozen wastes of Skyrim can be tiring, and sometimes an adventurer needs a warm place to call their own. This wikiHow will teach you how to build a house in Skyrim so that you can rest from your adventures.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Purchase and install Hearthfire.\", \"描述\": \"This add-on can be purchased directly from The Elder Scrolls website if you use a PC or, for console gamers, from the PlayStation Store or Xbox Live.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Speak with a steward in Morthal, Dawnstar or Falkreath and buy a plot of land.\", \"描述\": \"5000 gold will be removed from your inventory.\\nYou may have to complete a few quests in each respective city before the jarl will allow you to purchase land.\\nIf you are having trouble deciding where you want to build your house, keep in mind that buying one plot does not stop you from buying the other two.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Follow the quest marker to the site of your new home.\", \"描述\": \"There you will find what you need to build your home: a drafting table, a carpenter’s workbench and a treasure chest filled with the materials you will need to begin building your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Read The Beginner’s Guide to Homesteading.\", \"描述\": \"This book, found on top of the carpenter’s workbench, will help you understand how to build your new home.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Use the drafting table and select “Small Home.”\", \"描述\": \"This will make the various components of the small home available to build with the carpenter’s workbench.\\nSelecting projects to build on the drafting table does not use resources, so do not worry if you do not have all of the wood, iron, and so on that you will need.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Use the carpenter’s workbench and build the components of your small home.\", \"描述\": \"Once your small home is built, you can decorate the interior using the carpenter’s workbench found inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Continue adding onto your home by selecting “Main Hall” from the drafting table.\", \"描述\": \"This will greatly increase the size of your house and turn the small home structure into an entryway.\\nBeing a much larger structure, the main hall will require you to gather additional materials.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Acquire the needed materials to continue building.\", \"描述\": \"Lumber can be bought from any of the many lumber mills in Skyrim, including Deadwood Mill in Falkreath, Agna’s Mill which is west of Windhelm or the Solitude Sawmill in Haafingar.\\nClay can be found in close proximity to your home. Look for a reddish-brown deposit on the ground and mine it just like other minerals in Skyrim.\\nQuarried stone can also be found close to each homestead. Look for a grey deposit against stones or mountains. As with clay, you will need a pickaxe in your inventory to mine it.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Complete the main hall and choose which wings you want to add onto your home.\", \"描述\": \"These additions can bring both added utility and a sense of personalization to your character’s dwelling.\\nOn the north wing, you can choose from a storage room, a trophy room or an alchemy laboratory.\\nOn the west wing, you can choose from a greenhouse, a spare bedroom or an enchanter’s tower.\\nOn the east wing, you can choose from a kitchen, a library or an armory.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Decorate the inside of your main hall and wings using the carpenter’s workbench, exactly like you decorated the small home.\", \"描述\": \"When you are selecting which item to build, the needed components will be listed.\\nThere are many aesthetic options for decorating, including wall-mounted horker heads and iron chandeliers.\\nThere are also many functional options for decorating, including enchanting and alchemy tables.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Once your home is built, you can hire a steward, invite your spouse to move in and even adopt children.\\n\", \"When building and furnishing your house, you will have to keep a large stock of iron. 238-301 ingots are needed to build and fully furnish your home, depending on your choices for the wings.\\n\", \"Build your home to complement the kind of character you play. For example, a warrior character would make better use of an armory, whereas a thief character would enjoy a garden because she could use the ingredients for poisons.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Once you build a wing, there is no going back. Plan carefully to avoid regretting your decisions.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,391
How to Build a House in the Sims 2
1. Steps 1-1. Plan the size of your house. The most important things to consider are the size of the family and how much money you have. A house with 2 people would most likely be smaller than a house with 8 people, but that's the creator's choice. Each family starts out with $20,000, however with some money cheat code (motherlode), you can have up to $999,999,999 at a time. Also, think about if you want a garden, pool, backyard, etc. Make a sketch or "blueprint" of what your house is going to be like. 1-2. Decide how many rooms there will be. Bathrooms are generally smaller (unless it is a public bathroom) and living rooms tend to be larger. Have bedrooms for each Sim, unless they are married or in love. Teenagers, children, and babies/toddlers get their own room unless you want them to share. 1-3. Click on the "Lots & Houses" icon and then click on the "Empty Lots" symbol. Lots range from very small (3 x 1) to very large (5 x 6). Just remember that you can create two and three story houses, so don't choose a huge one for a small family. 1-4. Choose between terrain or foundation. To some people, using foundation is much easier to create a house with. Drag over the area you want the house to be located. Include any decks and porches you want to include on the ground level. Lay a driveway and/or garage before lying foundation. If you want to have a garden or a front yard, start the foundation a few tiles away from the mailbox area. 1-5. Put up the walls. Using the wall tool, outline the physical shape of the house, leaving any decks and porches you want outside of the walls (note that having a foundation requires steps to get into the house, so leave a small porch for the front door and any other doors!) 1-6. Create rooms by adding walls inside the house. Using diagonal walls makes for an aesthetic structure, but remember most items cannot be places on a diagonal wall. 1-7. Add windows and doors. Windows add "environment" to a Sim's mood. Make sure that you have a door to each room, as you can also use arcs in living rooms and kitchens. Style your house with glass doors on study rooms or offices. 1-8. Add paint to the walls and flooring. Try to choose colors that would match in real life, such as brown tile in the kitchen, wood deck outside, tan carpet in the living room, or just go wild and mix everything in one room! 1-9. Add furniture. Put couches, TVs, bookcases, or arcade machines in the living room, add a trash can, an oven, a fridge, counter tops, and a telephone in the kitchen, and put toilets, sinks, and showers in the bathroom. 1-10. Add a staircase if you want a second story. There are two ways to do this: you can use the full staircase tool to place a staircase, or you can use the mini staircase tool. To use that, go up a level and place floor squares where you want the staircase to reach on the second floor, and then go to the staircase tool, choose the type of stair you want to use, and place your cursor over the landing. This will not work if there is not enough room to construct the staircase. Place the exterior walls for the second floor. Second floors can by dynamic, since you don't need them to match the first floor. You can also place decks on the second floor. 1-11. Place the interior walls on the second floor, creating the rooms you wish to have. You will need to place floors in all of these rooms as well. You can place a simple wooden floor in the rooms you wish to have, then edit them later. 1-12. Use the roof tool to create the style roof you'd like. You can use the auto roof maker, or you can go in and customize your roof with different shape. You can always go back and change the color and shape later. 1-13. Create an outside environment. Lay out some tile or gravel, put out some nice chairs, buy some exercise equipment, and set up a garden or some trees. You may even want to build a greenhouse.(If you have Seasons) If so, build a room and put some gardens in there and maybe fruit trees. 1-14. Use the fence tool to create fences. Place barriers where necessary for decks and porches. You should also use the step tool to place staircases where they are needed. Dress up a garden using the flowerbed fencing. 1-15. Get lights set up. Be creative with the lights considering what you want the theme of the room to be. And stop with the boring ceiling lights. Experiment with wall lamps, table lamps, and maybe some floor lamps. 1-16. Have fun and remember that creativity is key! Use split levels, or bridges, maybe add a swimmable lake! The Sim's houses are designed by YOU the way YOU want it to be! Most importantly, it's okay to go crazy with your house. As long as the sims are able to get into every room, and have what they need, you can go wild with the house! Tips Allow about 3 tiles across in hallways. Sims need to move around and if they are blocked, they'll get frustrated and start waving their hands at you. If you run out of money, get a decent paying job and work until you get enough money to keep improving your house. Vary up the structure of your rooms. A square or rectangular house with all square or rectangular rooms is boring. Put in a diagonal wall here, maybe add an L-shaped extension. For more advanced techniques, try half-walls, modular stairs or split-level homes. Warnings Building a house in The Sims 2 has advantages and disadvantages. Make sure you have enough money to build and fill the house with things you know your Sim or Sims will need. (Make sure or your Sim or Sims will not be very happy). Remember to turn off the boolprop cheat. If fail to do so it could corrupt the game. Using the boolprop allow45degreeangleofrotation cheat will make some objects work and some won't. Some will glitch.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Plan the size of your house.\\nThe most important things to consider are the size of the family and how much money you have. A house with 2 people would most likely be smaller than a house with 8 people, but that's the creator's choice. Each family starts out with $20,000, however with some money cheat code (motherlode), you can have up to $999,999,999 at a time. Also, think about if you want a garden, pool, backyard, etc. Make a sketch or \\\"blueprint\\\" of what your house is going to be like.\\n1-2. Decide how many rooms there will be.\\nBathrooms are generally smaller (unless it is a public bathroom) and living rooms tend to be larger. Have bedrooms for each Sim, unless they are married or in love. Teenagers, children, and babies/toddlers get their own room unless you want them to share.\\n1-3. Click on the \\\"Lots & Houses\\\" icon and then click on the \\\"Empty Lots\\\" symbol.\\nLots range from very small (3 x 1) to very large (5 x 6). Just remember that you can create two and three story houses, so don't choose a huge one for a small family.\\n1-4. Choose between terrain or foundation.\\nTo some people, using foundation is much easier to create a house with. Drag over the area you want the house to be located. Include any decks and porches you want to include on the ground level. Lay a driveway and/or garage before lying foundation. If you want to have a garden or a front yard, start the foundation a few tiles away from the mailbox area.\\n1-5. Put up the walls.\\nUsing the wall tool, outline the physical shape of the house, leaving any decks and porches you want outside of the walls (note that having a foundation requires steps to get into the house, so leave a small porch for the front door and any other doors!)\\n1-6. Create rooms by adding walls inside the house.\\nUsing diagonal walls makes for an aesthetic structure, but remember most items cannot be places on a diagonal wall.\\n1-7. Add windows and doors.\\nWindows add \\\"environment\\\" to a Sim's mood. Make sure that you have a door to each room, as you can also use arcs in living rooms and kitchens. Style your house with glass doors on study rooms or offices.\\n1-8. Add paint to the walls and flooring.\\nTry to choose colors that would match in real life, such as brown tile in the kitchen, wood deck outside, tan carpet in the living room, or just go wild and mix everything in one room!\\n1-9. Add furniture.\\nPut couches, TVs, bookcases, or arcade machines in the living room, add a trash can, an oven, a fridge, counter tops, and a telephone in the kitchen, and put toilets, sinks, and showers in the bathroom.\\n1-10. Add a staircase if you want a second story.\\nThere are two ways to do this: you can use the full staircase tool to place a staircase, or you can use the mini staircase tool. To use that, go up a level and place floor squares where you want the staircase to reach on the second floor, and then go to the staircase tool, choose the type of stair you want to use, and place your cursor over the landing. This will not work if there is not enough room to construct the staircase.\\nPlace the exterior walls for the second floor. Second floors can by dynamic, since you don't need them to match the first floor. You can also place decks on the second floor.\\n1-11. Place the interior walls on the second floor, creating the rooms you wish to have.\\nYou will need to place floors in all of these rooms as well. You can place a simple wooden floor in the rooms you wish to have, then edit them later.\\n1-12. Use the roof tool to create the style roof you'd like.\\nYou can use the auto roof maker, or you can go in and customize your roof with different shape. You can always go back and change the color and shape later.\\n1-13. Create an outside environment.\\nLay out some tile or gravel, put out some nice chairs, buy some exercise equipment, and set up a garden or some trees. You may even want to build a greenhouse.(If you have Seasons) If so, build a room and put some gardens in there and maybe fruit trees.\\n1-14. Use the fence tool to create fences.\\nPlace barriers where necessary for decks and porches. You should also use the step tool to place staircases where they are needed. Dress up a garden using the flowerbed fencing.\\n1-15. Get lights set up.\\nBe creative with the lights considering what you want the theme of the room to be. And stop with the boring ceiling lights. Experiment with wall lamps, table lamps, and maybe some floor lamps.\\n1-16. Have fun and remember that creativity is key!\\nUse split levels, or bridges, maybe add a swimmable lake! The Sim's houses are designed by YOU the way YOU want it to be! Most importantly, it's okay to go crazy with your house. As long as the sims are able to get into every room, and have what they need, you can go wild with the house!\\nTips\\nAllow about 3 tiles across in hallways. Sims need to move around and if they are blocked, they'll get frustrated and start waving their hands at you.\\nIf you run out of money, get a decent paying job and work until you get enough money to keep improving your house.\\nVary up the structure of your rooms. A square or rectangular house with all square or rectangular rooms is boring. Put in a diagonal wall here, maybe add an L-shaped extension. For more advanced techniques, try half-walls, modular stairs or split-level homes.\\nWarnings\\nBuilding a house in The Sims 2 has advantages and disadvantages. Make sure you have enough money to build and fill the house with things you know your Sim or Sims will need. (Make sure or your Sim or Sims will not be very happy).\\nRemember to turn off the boolprop cheat. If fail to do so it could corrupt the game.\\nUsing the boolprop allow45degreeangleofrotation cheat will make some objects work and some won't. Some will glitch.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a house in The Sims 2 may seem like a difficult and tedious process. The Sims 2 gives many building tools and options, especially with the variety of available expansion packs and there are so many things to consider from walls to flooring to decoration and more and it can be overwhelming. But with these directions you can make anything from a mansion to a clubhouse with ease.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Plan the size of your house.\", \"描述\": \"The most important things to consider are the size of the family and how much money you have. A house with 2 people would most likely be smaller than a house with 8 people, but that's the creator's choice. Each family starts out with $20,000, however with some money cheat code (motherlode), you can have up to $999,999,999 at a time. Also, think about if you want a garden, pool, backyard, etc. Make a sketch or \\\"blueprint\\\" of what your house is going to be like.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Decide how many rooms there will be.\", \"描述\": \"Bathrooms are generally smaller (unless it is a public bathroom) and living rooms tend to be larger. Have bedrooms for each Sim, unless they are married or in love. Teenagers, children, and babies/toddlers get their own room unless you want them to share.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Click on the \\\"Lots & Houses\\\" icon and then click on the \\\"Empty Lots\\\" symbol.\", \"描述\": \"Lots range from very small (3 x 1) to very large (5 x 6). Just remember that you can create two and three story houses, so don't choose a huge one for a small family.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose between terrain or foundation.\", \"描述\": \"To some people, using foundation is much easier to create a house with. Drag over the area you want the house to be located. Include any decks and porches you want to include on the ground level. Lay a driveway and/or garage before lying foundation. If you want to have a garden or a front yard, start the foundation a few tiles away from the mailbox area.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Put up the walls.\", \"描述\": \"Using the wall tool, outline the physical shape of the house, leaving any decks and porches you want outside of the walls (note that having a foundation requires steps to get into the house, so leave a small porch for the front door and any other doors!)\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create rooms by adding walls inside the house.\", \"描述\": \"Using diagonal walls makes for an aesthetic structure, but remember most items cannot be places on a diagonal wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add windows and doors.\", \"描述\": \"Windows add \\\"environment\\\" to a Sim's mood. Make sure that you have a door to each room, as you can also use arcs in living rooms and kitchens. Style your house with glass doors on study rooms or offices.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Add paint to the walls and flooring.\", \"描述\": \"Try to choose colors that would match in real life, such as brown tile in the kitchen, wood deck outside, tan carpet in the living room, or just go wild and mix everything in one room!\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Add furniture.\", \"描述\": \"Put couches, TVs, bookcases, or arcade machines in the living room, add a trash can, an oven, a fridge, counter tops, and a telephone in the kitchen, and put toilets, sinks, and showers in the bathroom.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Add a staircase if you want a second story.\", \"描述\": \"There are two ways to do this: you can use the full staircase tool to place a staircase, or you can use the mini staircase tool. To use that, go up a level and place floor squares where you want the staircase to reach on the second floor, and then go to the staircase tool, choose the type of stair you want to use, and place your cursor over the landing. This will not work if there is not enough room to construct the staircase.\\nPlace the exterior walls for the second floor. Second floors can by dynamic, since you don't need them to match the first floor. You can also place decks on the second floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Place the interior walls on the second floor, creating the rooms you wish to have.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to place floors in all of these rooms as well. You can place a simple wooden floor in the rooms you wish to have, then edit them later.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Use the roof tool to create the style roof you'd like.\", \"描述\": \"You can use the auto roof maker, or you can go in and customize your roof with different shape. You can always go back and change the color and shape later.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Create an outside environment.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out some tile or gravel, put out some nice chairs, buy some exercise equipment, and set up a garden or some trees. You may even want to build a greenhouse.(If you have Seasons) If so, build a room and put some gardens in there and maybe fruit trees.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Use the fence tool to create fences.\", \"描述\": \"Place barriers where necessary for decks and porches. You should also use the step tool to place staircases where they are needed. Dress up a garden using the flowerbed fencing.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Get lights set up.\", \"描述\": \"Be creative with the lights considering what you want the theme of the room to be. And stop with the boring ceiling lights. Experiment with wall lamps, table lamps, and maybe some floor lamps.\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Have fun and remember that creativity is key!\", \"描述\": \"Use split levels, or bridges, maybe add a swimmable lake! The Sim's houses are designed by YOU the way YOU want it to be! Most importantly, it's okay to go crazy with your house. As long as the sims are able to get into every room, and have what they need, you can go wild with the house!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Allow about 3 tiles across in hallways. Sims need to move around and if they are blocked, they'll get frustrated and start waving their hands at you.\\n\", \"If you run out of money, get a decent paying job and work until you get enough money to keep improving your house.\\n\", \"Vary up the structure of your rooms. A square or rectangular house with all square or rectangular rooms is boring. Put in a diagonal wall here, maybe add an L-shaped extension. For more advanced techniques, try half-walls, modular stairs or split-level homes.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Building a house in The Sims 2 has advantages and disadvantages. Make sure you have enough money to build and fill the house with things you know your Sim or Sims will need. (Make sure or your Sim or Sims will not be very happy).\\n\", \"Remember to turn off the boolprop cheat. If fail to do so it could corrupt the game.\\n\", \"Using the boolprop allow45degreeangleofrotation cheat will make some objects work and some won't. Some will glitch.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,392
How to Build a House of Cards
1. Building a Triangular House 1-1. Form the first triangle. This "truss" is the basic structure of the pyramidal design. Prop two cards together into an inverted "V" shape. The top edges of the cards should meet, and the bottom edges should be evenly spaced apart from a central axis. Spend some time practicing this process. You'll need to repeat it over and over again in the construction of your house. 1-2. Build the foundation. Create a steady line of triangular trusses, two cards each. The point of each triangle should be no more than one card's length from the point of the next triangle. The number of triangles in the foundation determines the possible height of your house of cards: each "floor" will be built upon one less triangle than the floor below. For instance, if you build a three-triangle foundation, you'll be able to go up three "floors" before the house reaches a point; if you build a six-triangle foundation, you'll have more space to build, and you'll be able to go up six floors. Start with a three-floor house. Brace each new triangle against the base of the adjacent triangle. Eventually, you should have three triangles (using six cards, total) that are all touching. 1-3. Brace the triangles. Gently lay a flat card on top of the first two triangles (say, 1 and 2). Make sure that the card is perfectly balanced between the points. Now, lay another card between Triangles 2 and 3. You should have a "foundation" of three triangles with two flat cards on top. This takes eight cards, total. 1-4. Build the next layer of cards. If your foundation comprises three triangles, the next "floor" up should use two triangles. Try to stack each new triangle at the same angle as the two triangles below, for the sake of structural integrity. Place the base of each card above the point of a lower triangle. When you have formed these two triangles, lay one flat card on top between their points. Be extremely careful. If you built the foundation well, it should be strong enough to hold up these new cards – but you will need to keep from knocking the whole thing over with a tremble or sudden movement. Stack the new cards lightly and cautiously. When you've finished laying the second "floor", your tower should comprise thirteen cards: five triangles and three flat cards. 1-5. Add the point. To complete your house of cards, you just need to stack one more triangle atop the structure. Slowly and carefully prop two cards together at the same angle as all of the prior triangles. Hold them in place until they are completely even, and pull your hands away when you feel confident that the point will stand on its own. If the structure stands, you have built a house of cards! 2. Building a Four-Card Cell 2-1. Form the cell. First, arrange two cards into a slightly-off-center "T". Hold the cards, one in each hand, so that their flat faces are perpendicular to the table. Lean them against each other to form another almost-T. Next, place a third card against the middle of one card to form another "T". Close the box with a fourth card and "T", so you have four cards pressed against each other with a square space in the center. This is the basic four-card cell or "lock box". It is one of the most structurally stable foundations that you can lay for your house of cards. Think of this cell as a pattern that you can repeat throughout your design. 2-2. Build a "roof" or "ceiling". Overlap two cards flat on top of your four-card cell. Then, lay two more flat cards (rotated at a 90-degree angle) to complete the roof. A "double-ply" flat layer will make your eventual structure much more stable. 2-3. Add a second story. Carefully construct a second four-card cell on top off the flat layer. You now have a stable two-story card structure. Feel free to keep adding stories until you run out of cards, or until you think the structure is tall enough. The four-card cell is a very strong root, so you should be able to stack many levels atop the foundation. Try adding "wings" to the house by attaching more T-shapes to the ground floor. Whenever you put down a card shape that is perpendicular to the table surface, make sure to lay a flat card layer on top as a "ceiling". This will make the cards more structurally sound, and it will make the whole building look more like a house. Get creative. The sky's the limit with this method – so see how big of a house you can build! 3. Troubleshooting 3-1. Use cheap cards. Expensive pro-quality cards are usually smooth and glossy, and they are prone to slipping apart. Cheaper cards tend to be grainier and less slippery, and thus better for sticking together. 3-2. Choose your surface carefully. Pick a safe, sturdy space that will not shift while you're stacking cards. Try building upon a slightly textured surface, like a billiards table or an unfinished wood table. A smooth surface like a glass table could cause your cards to slip. Consider using a tablecloth or a place-mat to add texture to a smooth surface – but be aware that these unfixed foundations are prone to shift unexpectedly. Make sure that there isn't a draft! Build your house of cards indoors, away from open windows, doors, fans, and vents. You don't want to lose all of your hard work to a ill-timed gust of wind. 3-3. Stay calm. A shaky hand or a sudden twitch can make your house crumble. Hold each card gently but firmly between two fingers of your dominant hand. Try to "float" it smoothly into place. Try placing cards when you are between breaths, or at the "bottom of your breath" – in the moment just after you exhale. Take deep breaths, and pay attention to the brief space that occurs between exhalation and inhalation. Your body is at its stillest during this moment, and you may find it easier to keep your hand steady. Tips You shouldn't use glue, tape, staples, paper clips, or any other fasteners. Don't bend the cards to make them hang onto each other, make notches in the cards to fit them together. All of the above are ways to 'cheat', and you're otherwise not actually accomplishing anything. As you build your house of cards, try to not to breathe on your work. A powerful gust of breath could easily knock the structure down. Be patient. If you're too hasty, you might wreck your house!
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Triangular House\\n1-1. Form the first triangle.\\nThis \\\"truss\\\" is the basic structure of the pyramidal design. Prop two cards together into an inverted \\\"V\\\" shape. The top edges of the cards should meet, and the bottom edges should be evenly spaced apart from a central axis. Spend some time practicing this process. You'll need to repeat it over and over again in the construction of your house.\\n1-2. Build the foundation.\\nCreate a steady line of triangular trusses, two cards each. The point of each triangle should be no more than one card's length from the point of the next triangle. The number of triangles in the foundation determines the possible height of your house of cards: each \\\"floor\\\" will be built upon one less triangle than the floor below. For instance, if you build a three-triangle foundation, you'll be able to go up three \\\"floors\\\" before the house reaches a point; if you build a six-triangle foundation, you'll have more space to build, and you'll be able to go up six floors. Start with a three-floor house.\\nBrace each new triangle against the base of the adjacent triangle. Eventually, you should have three triangles (using six cards, total) that are all touching.\\n1-3. Brace the triangles.\\nGently lay a flat card on top of the first two triangles (say, 1 and 2). Make sure that the card is perfectly balanced between the points. Now, lay another card between Triangles 2 and 3. You should have a \\\"foundation\\\" of three triangles with two flat cards on top. This takes eight cards, total.\\n1-4. Build the next layer of cards.\\nIf your foundation comprises three triangles, the next \\\"floor\\\" up should use two triangles. Try to stack each new triangle at the same angle as the two triangles below, for the sake of structural integrity. Place the base of each card above the point of a lower triangle. When you have formed these two triangles, lay one flat card on top between their points.\\nBe extremely careful. If you built the foundation well, it should be strong enough to hold up these new cards – but you will need to keep from knocking the whole thing over with a tremble or sudden movement. Stack the new cards lightly and cautiously.\\nWhen you've finished laying the second \\\"floor\\\", your tower should comprise thirteen cards: five triangles and three flat cards.\\n1-5. Add the point.\\nTo complete your house of cards, you just need to stack one more triangle atop the structure. Slowly and carefully prop two cards together at the same angle as all of the prior triangles. Hold them in place until they are completely even, and pull your hands away when you feel confident that the point will stand on its own. If the structure stands, you have built a house of cards!\\n2. Building a Four-Card Cell\\n2-1. Form the cell.\\nFirst, arrange two cards into a slightly-off-center \\\"T\\\". Hold the cards, one in each hand, so that their flat faces are perpendicular to the table. Lean them against each other to form another almost-T. Next, place a third card against the middle of one card to form another \\\"T\\\". Close the box with a fourth card and \\\"T\\\", so you have four cards pressed against each other with a square space in the center.\\nThis is the basic four-card cell or \\\"lock box\\\". It is one of the most structurally stable foundations that you can lay for your house of cards. Think of this cell as a pattern that you can repeat throughout your design.\\n2-2. Build a \\\"roof\\\" or \\\"ceiling\\\".\\nOverlap two cards flat on top of your four-card cell. Then, lay two more flat cards (rotated at a 90-degree angle) to complete the roof. A \\\"double-ply\\\" flat layer will make your eventual structure much more stable.\\n2-3. Add a second story.\\nCarefully construct a second four-card cell on top off the flat layer. You now have a stable two-story card structure. Feel free to keep adding stories until you run out of cards, or until you think the structure is tall enough. The four-card cell is a very strong root, so you should be able to stack many levels atop the foundation.\\nTry adding \\\"wings\\\" to the house by attaching more T-shapes to the ground floor. Whenever you put down a card shape that is perpendicular to the table surface, make sure to lay a flat card layer on top as a \\\"ceiling\\\". This will make the cards more structurally sound, and it will make the whole building look more like a house.\\nGet creative. The sky's the limit with this method – so see how big of a house you can build!\\n3. Troubleshooting\\n3-1. Use cheap cards.\\nExpensive pro-quality cards are usually smooth and glossy, and they are prone to slipping apart. Cheaper cards tend to be grainier and less slippery, and thus better for sticking together.\\n3-2. Choose your surface carefully.\\nPick a safe, sturdy space that will not shift while you're stacking cards. Try building upon a slightly textured surface, like a billiards table or an unfinished wood table. A smooth surface like a glass table could cause your cards to slip. Consider using a tablecloth or a place-mat to add texture to a smooth surface – but be aware that these unfixed foundations are prone to shift unexpectedly.\\nMake sure that there isn't a draft! Build your house of cards indoors, away from open windows, doors, fans, and vents. You don't want to lose all of your hard work to a ill-timed gust of wind.\\n3-3. Stay calm.\\nA shaky hand or a sudden twitch can make your house crumble. Hold each card gently but firmly between two fingers of your dominant hand. Try to \\\"float\\\" it smoothly into place.\\nTry placing cards when you are between breaths, or at the \\\"bottom of your breath\\\" – in the moment just after you exhale. Take deep breaths, and pay attention to the brief space that occurs between exhalation and inhalation. Your body is at its stillest during this moment, and you may find it easier to keep your hand steady.\\nTips\\nYou shouldn't use glue, tape, staples, paper clips, or any other fasteners. Don't bend the cards to make them hang onto each other, make notches in the cards to fit them together. All of the above are ways to 'cheat', and you're otherwise not actually accomplishing anything.\\nAs you build your house of cards, try to not to breathe on your work. A powerful gust of breath could easily knock the structure down.\\nBe patient. If you're too hasty, you might wreck your house!\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"There are several ways to build a house of cards. The \\\"classic\\\" method that you may have seen in popular media is based on a series of triangular trusses that peak to a point in a card pyramid. Many professional card-stackers, however, start their structures with a four-card cell or \\\"lock box\\\", which forms a much more stable foundation for complex designs.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Triangular House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Form the first triangle.\", \"描述\": \"This \\\"truss\\\" is the basic structure of the pyramidal design. Prop two cards together into an inverted \\\"V\\\" shape. The top edges of the cards should meet, and the bottom edges should be evenly spaced apart from a central axis. Spend some time practicing this process. You'll need to repeat it over and over again in the construction of your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Create a steady line of triangular trusses, two cards each. The point of each triangle should be no more than one card's length from the point of the next triangle. The number of triangles in the foundation determines the possible height of your house of cards: each \\\"floor\\\" will be built upon one less triangle than the floor below. For instance, if you build a three-triangle foundation, you'll be able to go up three \\\"floors\\\" before the house reaches a point; if you build a six-triangle foundation, you'll have more space to build, and you'll be able to go up six floors. Start with a three-floor house.\\nBrace each new triangle against the base of the adjacent triangle. Eventually, you should have three triangles (using six cards, total) that are all touching.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Brace the triangles.\", \"描述\": \"Gently lay a flat card on top of the first two triangles (say, 1 and 2). Make sure that the card is perfectly balanced between the points. Now, lay another card between Triangles 2 and 3. You should have a \\\"foundation\\\" of three triangles with two flat cards on top. This takes eight cards, total.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the next layer of cards.\", \"描述\": \"If your foundation comprises three triangles, the next \\\"floor\\\" up should use two triangles. Try to stack each new triangle at the same angle as the two triangles below, for the sake of structural integrity. Place the base of each card above the point of a lower triangle. When you have formed these two triangles, lay one flat card on top between their points.\\nBe extremely careful. If you built the foundation well, it should be strong enough to hold up these new cards – but you will need to keep from knocking the whole thing over with a tremble or sudden movement. Stack the new cards lightly and cautiously.\\nWhen you've finished laying the second \\\"floor\\\", your tower should comprise thirteen cards: five triangles and three flat cards.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add the point.\", \"描述\": \"To complete your house of cards, you just need to stack one more triangle atop the structure. Slowly and carefully prop two cards together at the same angle as all of the prior triangles. Hold them in place until they are completely even, and pull your hands away when you feel confident that the point will stand on its own. If the structure stands, you have built a house of cards!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Four-Card Cell\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Form the cell.\", \"描述\": \"First, arrange two cards into a slightly-off-center \\\"T\\\". Hold the cards, one in each hand, so that their flat faces are perpendicular to the table. Lean them against each other to form another almost-T. Next, place a third card against the middle of one card to form another \\\"T\\\". Close the box with a fourth card and \\\"T\\\", so you have four cards pressed against each other with a square space in the center.\\nThis is the basic four-card cell or \\\"lock box\\\". It is one of the most structurally stable foundations that you can lay for your house of cards. Think of this cell as a pattern that you can repeat throughout your design.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build a \\\"roof\\\" or \\\"ceiling\\\".\", \"描述\": \"Overlap two cards flat on top of your four-card cell. Then, lay two more flat cards (rotated at a 90-degree angle) to complete the roof. A \\\"double-ply\\\" flat layer will make your eventual structure much more stable.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a second story.\", \"描述\": \"Carefully construct a second four-card cell on top off the flat layer. You now have a stable two-story card structure. Feel free to keep adding stories until you run out of cards, or until you think the structure is tall enough. The four-card cell is a very strong root, so you should be able to stack many levels atop the foundation.\\nTry adding \\\"wings\\\" to the house by attaching more T-shapes to the ground floor. Whenever you put down a card shape that is perpendicular to the table surface, make sure to lay a flat card layer on top as a \\\"ceiling\\\". This will make the cards more structurally sound, and it will make the whole building look more like a house.\\nGet creative. The sky's the limit with this method – so see how big of a house you can build!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Troubleshooting\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Use cheap cards.\", \"描述\": \"Expensive pro-quality cards are usually smooth and glossy, and they are prone to slipping apart. Cheaper cards tend to be grainier and less slippery, and thus better for sticking together.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your surface carefully.\", \"描述\": \"Pick a safe, sturdy space that will not shift while you're stacking cards. Try building upon a slightly textured surface, like a billiards table or an unfinished wood table. A smooth surface like a glass table could cause your cards to slip. Consider using a tablecloth or a place-mat to add texture to a smooth surface – but be aware that these unfixed foundations are prone to shift unexpectedly.\\nMake sure that there isn't a draft! Build your house of cards indoors, away from open windows, doors, fans, and vents. You don't want to lose all of your hard work to a ill-timed gust of wind.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Stay calm.\", \"描述\": \"A shaky hand or a sudden twitch can make your house crumble. Hold each card gently but firmly between two fingers of your dominant hand. Try to \\\"float\\\" it smoothly into place.\\nTry placing cards when you are between breaths, or at the \\\"bottom of your breath\\\" – in the moment just after you exhale. Take deep breaths, and pay attention to the brief space that occurs between exhalation and inhalation. Your body is at its stillest during this moment, and you may find it easier to keep your hand steady.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You shouldn't use glue, tape, staples, paper clips, or any other fasteners. Don't bend the cards to make them hang onto each other, make notches in the cards to fit them together. All of the above are ways to 'cheat', and you're otherwise not actually accomplishing anything.\\n\", \"As you build your house of cards, try to not to breathe on your work. A powerful gust of breath could easily knock the structure down.\\n\", \"Be patient. If you're too hasty, you might wreck your house!\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,393
How to Build a House with Hearthfire in Skyrim
1. Obtaining Heljarchen Hall 1-1. Start the quest “Waking Nightmare”. In order to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar to build a house in “The Pale” you will need to find out about the people of Dawnstar through their dreams. Speak to the various people in Dawnstar to learn about their bad dreams. 1-2. Follow Erandur into the Temple of Doom after you speak to him. Make your way to the library. 1-3. Look for a book called, “The Dreamstride”. It is located on the upper level, on a lectern in the corner. 1-4. Follow Erandur into the laboratory. Here you will find a potion called Vaermina’s Torpor. Erandur will instruct you to drink it. You will be transported to a dream realm. 1-5. Locate and free the Miasma. Once done, you will be able to stop the force field using the found soul gem and be able to choose whether or not to kill Erandur. Return to the Jarl. 1-6. Complete the favor quest, “Kill the Giant”. You must be level 22 at the minimum to start this quest. The quest is very simple and only requires you to kill a giant at a camp specified by the Jarl and return to get your bounty. 1-7. Purchase land from the Jarl. After completing the above quests you will be granted the right to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar. 2. Obtaining Lakeview Manor 2-1. Complete the quest “Kill the Bandit Leader”. Speak to Siddgeir the Jarl of Falkreath. The will send you on a quest to kill a bandit leader at a designated bandit camp. Return to him. 2-2. Purchase land. Once you have completed the above quest, you will need to speak to Siddgeir again. 2-3. Do favor quests for other Falkreath residents. You will need to complete an undetermined amount of favor quests for the people of Falkreath in order to be able to purchase land from the Jarl of Falkreath. Check back with him after doing a few quests in the area to see if the option to purchase land has become available. 3. Obtaining Windstad Manor 3-1. Start the quest “Laid to Rest”. When you enter Morthal everyone in town will be speaking about how Hroggar’s house burned down. You can obtain the quest directly from the Jarl, from speaking to Jonna at the Moorside Inn, or from a passing guard if you have already been to the burned house. 3-2. Go to the burned house in Morthal and speak to Helgi the ghost. She will want to play play hide and seek. Agree to do so. She will describe another player in the game, and request that the game happen after dark. 3-3. Wait for dark and return go to Helgi’s grave site. You should have a quest marker to lead the way. 3-4. Defeat Laelette. When you get to the grave you must defeat Laelette and then speak to Helgi. She will then tell you a gruesome story surrounding her death. 3-5. Speak to Thonnir. When Thonnir arrives speak to him to learn that Laelette was spending a lot of time with Alva. 3-6. Investigate Alva by entering her house. Here you will find her journal and more details. Turn in these details to the Jarl. You will be asked to go to Morvarth’s Lair and destroy the vampire boss within. 3-7. Return to the Jarl. Once you have completed the quest, “Laid to Rest” you will be able to purchase land in the Hjaalmarch region. Go to your new land plot and begin building your home. 4. Building Your House 4-1. Go to your new plot of land. Regardless of which of the three houses you have obtained you will go about building your house the same way. You will find a drafting table, anvil, and workbench at each plot. 4-2. Gather the required materials to build. Each house is going to need a few basic materials to build. Sawn logs can be acquired by going to any woodmill and purchasing them. Alternatively you can purchase them through your house steward if you have appointed one. Hinges, nails, and locks can be crafted using iron ingots on the anvil nearby. Quarried stone and clay can be mined in an unlimited supply from nearby deposits. Look for a pickaxe laying on the ground to find deposits. 4-3. Build the small home. Once you have gathered your supplies, go to the drafting table and choose to make a small home. Switch to the carpenter’s work bench to create the items now listed. This will build the very start of your own home. You can technically stop here and have a perfectly viable home. However, you would be missing out on the great expansions available to your beautiful home. 4-4. Expand the home. After you have build the small home, return to the drafting table and choose to turn the small home into an entrance hall. Then you can choose expansions to add to your home. Choose to add a Main Hall, this must be done before you can choose any specialty rooms. 4-5. Choose what to add to each wing. After you have completed creating your main hall, return to the drafting bench to decide what to add to each wing. You can choose from amongst three options for each of the three wings of the house. For the north wing, you have the option to choose between a trophy, storage, or alchemy room. In the east wing, you will have the options of a kitchen, library, or armory. In the west wing, you will be able to choose from a greenhouse, spare bedroom, or enchanting room. 4-6. Decorate your house. Once all wings have been built and your choices have been made you can go inside and decorate your house. In each room will be a workbench with various options to decorate. Gather your materials and go wild! Tips It is smart to combine the greenhouse and alchemy lab; however you will have access to an alchemy table and enchanting table in your main hall and will not need to necessarily build the rooms labeled as such. You will also have access to a full kitchen in the main hall and will not need to build a kitchen unless you want the look aesthetically. A bedroom is required in order for your adopted children to move in. Children and spouses like the Lakeview Manor best.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Obtaining Heljarchen Hall\\n1-1. Start the quest “Waking Nightmare”.\\nIn order to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar to build a house in “The Pale” you will need to find out about the people of Dawnstar through their dreams.\\nSpeak to the various people in Dawnstar to learn about their bad dreams.\\n1-2. Follow Erandur into the Temple of Doom after you speak to him.\\nMake your way to the library.\\n1-3. Look for a book called, “The Dreamstride”.\\nIt is located on the upper level, on a lectern in the corner.\\n1-4. Follow Erandur into the laboratory.\\nHere you will find a potion called Vaermina’s Torpor. Erandur will instruct you to drink it. You will be transported to a dream realm.\\n1-5. Locate and free the Miasma.\\nOnce done, you will be able to stop the force field using the found soul gem and be able to choose whether or not to kill Erandur. Return to the Jarl.\\n1-6. Complete the favor quest, “Kill the Giant”.\\nYou must be level 22 at the minimum to start this quest. The quest is very simple and only requires you to kill a giant at a camp specified by the Jarl and return to get your bounty.\\n1-7. Purchase land from the Jarl.\\nAfter completing the above quests you will be granted the right to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar.\\n2. Obtaining Lakeview Manor\\n2-1. Complete the quest “Kill the Bandit Leader”.\\nSpeak to Siddgeir the Jarl of Falkreath. The will send you on a quest to kill a bandit leader at a designated bandit camp. Return to him.\\n2-2. Purchase land.\\nOnce you have completed the above quest, you will need to speak to Siddgeir again.\\n2-3. Do favor quests for other Falkreath residents.\\nYou will need to complete an undetermined amount of favor quests for the people of Falkreath in order to be able to purchase land from the Jarl of Falkreath. Check back with him after doing a few quests in the area to see if the option to purchase land has become available.\\n3. Obtaining Windstad Manor\\n3-1. Start the quest “Laid to Rest”.\\nWhen you enter Morthal everyone in town will be speaking about how Hroggar’s house burned down. You can obtain the quest directly from the Jarl, from speaking to Jonna at the Moorside Inn, or from a passing guard if you have already been to the burned house.\\n3-2. Go to the burned house in Morthal and speak to Helgi the ghost.\\nShe will want to play play hide and seek. Agree to do so. She will describe another player in the game, and request that the game happen after dark.\\n3-3. Wait for dark and return go to Helgi’s grave site.\\nYou should have a quest marker to lead the way.\\n3-4. Defeat Laelette.\\nWhen you get to the grave you must defeat Laelette and then speak to Helgi. She will then tell you a gruesome story surrounding her death.\\n3-5. Speak to Thonnir.\\nWhen Thonnir arrives speak to him to learn that Laelette was spending a lot of time with Alva.\\n3-6. Investigate Alva by entering her house.\\nHere you will find her journal and more details. Turn in these details to the Jarl. You will be asked to go to Morvarth’s Lair and destroy the vampire boss within.\\n3-7. Return to the Jarl.\\nOnce you have completed the quest, “Laid to Rest” you will be able to purchase land in the Hjaalmarch region. Go to your new land plot and begin building your home.\\n4. Building Your House\\n4-1. Go to your new plot of land.\\nRegardless of which of the three houses you have obtained you will go about building your house the same way. You will find a drafting table, anvil, and workbench at each plot.\\n4-2. Gather the required materials to build.\\nEach house is going to need a few basic materials to build. Sawn logs can be acquired by going to any woodmill and purchasing them. Alternatively you can purchase them through your house steward if you have appointed one. Hinges, nails, and locks can be crafted using iron ingots on the anvil nearby. Quarried stone and clay can be mined in an unlimited supply from nearby deposits. Look for a pickaxe laying on the ground to find deposits.\\n4-3. Build the small home.\\nOnce you have gathered your supplies, go to the drafting table and choose to make a small home. Switch to the carpenter’s work bench to create the items now listed. This will build the very start of your own home. You can technically stop here and have a perfectly viable home. However, you would be missing out on the great expansions available to your beautiful home.\\n4-4. Expand the home.\\nAfter you have build the small home, return to the drafting table and choose to turn the small home into an entrance hall. Then you can choose expansions to add to your home. Choose to add a Main Hall, this must be done before you can choose any specialty rooms.\\n4-5. Choose what to add to each wing.\\nAfter you have completed creating your main hall, return to the drafting bench to decide what to add to each wing. You can choose from amongst three options for each of the three wings of the house.\\nFor the north wing, you have the option to choose between a trophy, storage, or alchemy room.\\nIn the east wing, you will have the options of a kitchen, library, or armory.\\nIn the west wing, you will be able to choose from a greenhouse, spare bedroom, or enchanting room.\\n4-6. Decorate your house.\\nOnce all wings have been built and your choices have been made you can go inside and decorate your house. In each room will be a workbench with various options to decorate. Gather your materials and go wild!\\nTips\\nIt is smart to combine the greenhouse and alchemy lab; however you will have access to an alchemy table and enchanting table in your main hall and will not need to necessarily build the rooms labeled as such.\\nYou will also have access to a full kitchen in the main hall and will not need to build a kitchen unless you want the look aesthetically.\\nA bedroom is required in order for your adopted children to move in. Children and spouses like the Lakeview Manor best.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"You have killed dragons, saved towns, become a thane, and possibly even managed to land a spouse. Now it is time to settle down. Building a house in Hearthfire is the way to go! There are three houses you can build and unlike the houses you can obtain in the core game, houses that you get by playing the Hearthfire expansion are built with your own two hands from the ground up. They are far more expansive than the townhouses and can be a great way to level up several skills, as well as store and display your favorite gear, books, family members, and retainers.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Obtaining Heljarchen Hall\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start the quest “Waking Nightmare”.\", \"描述\": \"In order to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar to build a house in “The Pale” you will need to find out about the people of Dawnstar through their dreams.\\nSpeak to the various people in Dawnstar to learn about their bad dreams.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Follow Erandur into the Temple of Doom after you speak to him.\", \"描述\": \"Make your way to the library.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Look for a book called, “The Dreamstride”.\", \"描述\": \"It is located on the upper level, on a lectern in the corner.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Follow Erandur into the laboratory.\", \"描述\": \"Here you will find a potion called Vaermina’s Torpor. Erandur will instruct you to drink it. You will be transported to a dream realm.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Locate and free the Miasma.\", \"描述\": \"Once done, you will be able to stop the force field using the found soul gem and be able to choose whether or not to kill Erandur. Return to the Jarl.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Complete the favor quest, “Kill the Giant”.\", \"描述\": \"You must be level 22 at the minimum to start this quest. The quest is very simple and only requires you to kill a giant at a camp specified by the Jarl and return to get your bounty.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Purchase land from the Jarl.\", \"描述\": \"After completing the above quests you will be granted the right to purchase land from the Jarl of Dawnstar.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Obtaining Lakeview Manor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Complete the quest “Kill the Bandit Leader”.\", \"描述\": \"Speak to Siddgeir the Jarl of Falkreath. The will send you on a quest to kill a bandit leader at a designated bandit camp. Return to him.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Purchase land.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have completed the above quest, you will need to speak to Siddgeir again.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Do favor quests for other Falkreath residents.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to complete an undetermined amount of favor quests for the people of Falkreath in order to be able to purchase land from the Jarl of Falkreath. Check back with him after doing a few quests in the area to see if the option to purchase land has become available.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Obtaining Windstad Manor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Start the quest “Laid to Rest”.\", \"描述\": \"When you enter Morthal everyone in town will be speaking about how Hroggar’s house burned down. You can obtain the quest directly from the Jarl, from speaking to Jonna at the Moorside Inn, or from a passing guard if you have already been to the burned house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Go to the burned house in Morthal and speak to Helgi the ghost.\", \"描述\": \"She will want to play play hide and seek. Agree to do so. She will describe another player in the game, and request that the game happen after dark.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wait for dark and return go to Helgi’s grave site.\", \"描述\": \"You should have a quest marker to lead the way.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Defeat Laelette.\", \"描述\": \"When you get to the grave you must defeat Laelette and then speak to Helgi. She will then tell you a gruesome story surrounding her death.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Speak to Thonnir.\", \"描述\": \"When Thonnir arrives speak to him to learn that Laelette was spending a lot of time with Alva.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Investigate Alva by entering her house.\", \"描述\": \"Here you will find her journal and more details. Turn in these details to the Jarl. You will be asked to go to Morvarth’s Lair and destroy the vampire boss within.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Return to the Jarl.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have completed the quest, “Laid to Rest” you will be able to purchase land in the Hjaalmarch region. Go to your new land plot and begin building your home.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building Your House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go to your new plot of land.\", \"描述\": \"Regardless of which of the three houses you have obtained you will go about building your house the same way. You will find a drafting table, anvil, and workbench at each plot.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Gather the required materials to build.\", \"描述\": \"Each house is going to need a few basic materials to build. Sawn logs can be acquired by going to any woodmill and purchasing them. Alternatively you can purchase them through your house steward if you have appointed one. Hinges, nails, and locks can be crafted using iron ingots on the anvil nearby. Quarried stone and clay can be mined in an unlimited supply from nearby deposits. Look for a pickaxe laying on the ground to find deposits.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the small home.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have gathered your supplies, go to the drafting table and choose to make a small home. Switch to the carpenter’s work bench to create the items now listed. This will build the very start of your own home. You can technically stop here and have a perfectly viable home. However, you would be missing out on the great expansions available to your beautiful home.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Expand the home.\", \"描述\": \"After you have build the small home, return to the drafting table and choose to turn the small home into an entrance hall. Then you can choose expansions to add to your home. Choose to add a Main Hall, this must be done before you can choose any specialty rooms.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose what to add to each wing.\", \"描述\": \"After you have completed creating your main hall, return to the drafting bench to decide what to add to each wing. You can choose from amongst three options for each of the three wings of the house.\\nFor the north wing, you have the option to choose between a trophy, storage, or alchemy room.\\nIn the east wing, you will have the options of a kitchen, library, or armory.\\nIn the west wing, you will be able to choose from a greenhouse, spare bedroom, or enchanting room.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decorate your house.\", \"描述\": \"Once all wings have been built and your choices have been made you can go inside and decorate your house. In each room will be a workbench with various options to decorate. Gather your materials and go wild!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"It is smart to combine the greenhouse and alchemy lab; however you will have access to an alchemy table and enchanting table in your main hall and will not need to necessarily build the rooms labeled as such.\\n\", \"You will also have access to a full kitchen in the main hall and will not need to build a kitchen unless you want the look aesthetically.\\n\", \"A bedroom is required in order for your adopted children to move in. Children and spouses like the Lakeview Manor best.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,394
How to Build a Hydrometer
1. Creating Your Hydrometer 1-1. Gather your bulb, hydrometer, weight, and calibration chart. The bulb can be a graduated cylinder or narrow jar; the weight should be a piece of steel, other metal, or clay; the hydrometer is a standard straw. You also need a hydrometer calibration chart, which can be printed from numerous online sources, such as here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf. Your bulb should be small enough to float freely in your graduated cylinder. Standard hydrometers are 20.32 centimetres (8.00 in) in overall length, including both the stem and the bulb. Metal weights can be purchased at home hardware stores and should be 4 grams (0.14 oz) and small enough to fit into a straw. Clay can be purchased from craft stores or online suppliers. Purchase a 250 millilitre (1.1  c) or 500 millilitre (2.1  c) graduated cylinder (online or from an office supply store) so that you don't risk it overflowing. For glass jars, purchase a clear 16 ounce (473 mL) clear glass type from a big-box store. 1-2. Fill the narrow jar or graduated cylinder with 100 millilitres (0.42  c) of water. If you're using a graduated cylinder, fill it to the 100 millilitre (0.42  c) line. If you're using a narrow jar (like an olive jar), fill it with about ⁄2 cup (120 mL) of water minus 1 tablespoon (15 mL) and mark a reference line on the outside of the jar with a permanent marker. You can use either distilled or tap water. Whichever you use, be sure to use the same type of water from the same source throughout the project. When reading the water level on a graduated cylinder or marking your jar, always measure from the bottom of the meniscus—curved arc created on the water's surface. 1-3. Create a 4 gram (0.14 oz) weight using metal, steel, or true clay. Steel rods should be about 20 millimetres (0.79 in) long and 0.64 centimetres (0.25 in) thick. Sheet lead should be a bit thicker than 1 millimetre (0.039 in) and 15 by 20 millimetres (0.59 by 0.79 in) in size, and rolled up into a cylindrical shape. Clay balls should be free of voids or pits that could potentially trap air. You may be able to find steel parts such as steel disc blanks or washers that match these specifications without having to cut the metal yourself. Look at your local hardware store or check online. Since sheet lead is very thin, you can usually bend it with your hands or with a pair of pliers. Be sure to wear protective gloves to prevent any accidental cuts when bending. Use a gram scale for measuring weight. These can be purchased from convenience stores, big-box stores, and online suppliers. 1-4. Seal off one end of the straw with your metal or steel weight if you don't have clay. If you're using metal or steel weights, push them into one end of the straw. For rods, slide them in. Regardless of whether you use metal or steel, seal it using silicone sealant. Snip the tube at a 45-degree angle, and hold the tip (using a silicone gun or your hands) at the same angle to the straw hole. Gently pull the trigger of the gun or squeeze the tube to apply a dab of silicone sealant underneath to seal the opening as evenly as possible. Test your silicone on a piece of scrap to get a feel for the flow of the sealant before applying it to your straw. Use as little silicone as possible to minimize weight. 1-5. Attach a clay ball to the bottom of the straw if you're not using metal or steel. For clay weights, place the ball on a flat surface and hold the straw vertically over it. Gently press the straw into the clay until it is secured. Always be sure that there are no holes in the clay that will let water into the straw. After attaching the clay, hold the straw up in the air vertically and make sure that the ball doesn't fall off. 2. Calibrating Your Hydrometer 2-1. Float your hydrometer in water sealed side down and mark the water level. Once you place the straw into the water, the weight should pull it down until the water is a bit over its halfway point. After it's floating upright, use a waterproof permanent marker to draw a horizontal line at water level. The open end of the straw shouldn't extend more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top of the container of water. If it pokes out more than this, add weight to the straw to keep it from floating up too high and flipping onto its side. For additional weight, you can stick clay to the outside of the straw at the sealed end, or drop split shot sinkers, small nails, or pebbles down the inside of the straw until it floats at the right level. 2-2. Remove the hydrometer from the water and add measurement lines. After removing the straw from water and drying it, it is calibrated for pure, unsalted water (either distilled or regular). From here, mark measurement lines on the straw above and below the horizontal calibration line. Each line should be about 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart. Use a ruler to help keep your lines accurate. Use multiple colors for your lines, such as red for the zero and 10 millimetre (0.39 in) lines, and black for the lines between them. If you can't mark the lines 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart, aim for them to be at least as close as the width of the point your marker will allow. Take note of how far apart each line is and make sure all of them are equal distances apart. 2-3. Align your straw onto the straw image on the printed calibration chart. Place the straw onto the chart so that the bottom of the straw is on the bottom line. The calibration line on your straw should align with the diagonal chart line that is marked 1.0. If the straw doesn't align with the chart properly, wipe down the straw, attach another weight, and create another calibration line. Be sure that no water is in the straw to throw off the calibration. Print the calibration chart here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf 2-4. Draw colored marks at each of the other sloping lines on your calibration chart. The straw intersects with seven other lines on the calibration chart, each corresponding to 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7. Create horizontal lines on the straw at each of these intersection points using colored permanent marker. If you don't have a calibration chart, measure the distance from the bottom of your straw to the water-level marking in millimeters—this length will be called "x." Using a calculator, calculate "x/1.1", which will tell you, in millimeters, where the 1.1 calibration mark should go. Use the measurement lines you drew onto the straw to help guide your markings and repeat the "x/number" calculation for each calibration mark. 3. Testing Your Hydrometer 3-1. Add 10 grams (2.5 teaspoons) of salt to 50 millilitres (0.21  c) of water. If you can't measure 10 grams of salt exactly using a scale, use a teaspoon to do so. Stir the water using a spare straw to ensure that the salt dissolves completely and then continue adding water until it reaches 100 millilitres (0.42  c). The solution is now 10 percent salt. 3-2. Put the hydrometer into the diluted the water and record the water level. Observe where the water level meets the straw. Record the measurement of the line that aligns with the water's surface. 3-3. Remove the hydrometer and add more salt to increase the solution's density. Add the same amount of salt each time, repeating the above steps and recording the level to which the hydrometer now floats. Your readings should increase as you add more salt. Adding 10 grams (0.35 oz) of salt at a time is standard. If you want to dilute your solution and decrease its density, add more water. 3-4. Measure the density Test out other liquids in your hydrometer and see how dense they are. Most beers fall into the 1.030 to 1.0700 range, while pottery glazes measure at around 1.3 to 1.5. Always clean out your container after filling it with substances other than water to remove any residue. Hydrometers measure specific gravity. Since specific gravity is dimensionless, there is no unit of measurement. Tips You can also use your hydrometer to test other liquids, such as chilled fresh or salt water, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, and cooking oil. For liquids that may be harmful, you should have adult supervision. If you have access to a commercial hydrometer, you can use it to compare your measurements against those of your homemade hydrometer. Commercial hydrometers commonly measure the specific gravity of the liquids they are placed in, which is their density relative to that of water. A substance with a specific gravity less than 1 is less dense than pure water, while a substance with a specific gravity greater than 1 is denser than pure water. Warnings Do not confuse a hydrometer with a hygrometer, which is an instrument used to measure relative humidity.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Creating Your Hydrometer\\n1-1. Gather your bulb, hydrometer, weight, and calibration chart.\\nThe bulb can be a graduated cylinder or narrow jar; the weight should be a piece of steel, other metal, or clay; the hydrometer is a standard straw. You also need a hydrometer calibration chart, which can be printed from numerous online sources, such as here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf.\\nYour bulb should be small enough to float freely in your graduated cylinder. Standard hydrometers are 20.32 centimetres (8.00 in) in overall length, including both the stem and the bulb.\\nMetal weights can be purchased at home hardware stores and should be 4 grams (0.14 oz) and small enough to fit into a straw. Clay can be purchased from craft stores or online suppliers.\\nPurchase a 250 millilitre (1.1  c) or 500 millilitre (2.1  c) graduated cylinder (online or from an office supply store) so that you don't risk it overflowing. For glass jars, purchase a clear 16 ounce (473 mL) clear glass type from a big-box store.\\n1-2. Fill the narrow jar or graduated cylinder with 100 millilitres (0.42  c) of water.\\nIf you're using a graduated cylinder, fill it to the 100 millilitre (0.42  c) line. If you're using a narrow jar (like an olive jar), fill it with about ⁄2 cup (120 mL) of water minus 1 tablespoon (15 mL) and mark a reference line on the outside of the jar with a permanent marker.\\nYou can use either distilled or tap water. Whichever you use, be sure to use the same type of water from the same source throughout the project.\\nWhen reading the water level on a graduated cylinder or marking your jar, always measure from the bottom of the meniscus—curved arc created on the water's surface.\\n1-3. Create a 4 gram (0.14 oz) weight using metal, steel, or true clay.\\nSteel rods should be about 20 millimetres (0.79 in) long and 0.64 centimetres (0.25 in) thick. Sheet lead should be a bit thicker than 1 millimetre (0.039 in) and 15 by 20 millimetres (0.59 by 0.79 in) in size, and rolled up into a cylindrical shape. Clay balls should be free of voids or pits that could potentially trap air.\\nYou may be able to find steel parts such as steel disc blanks or washers that match these specifications without having to cut the metal yourself. Look at your local hardware store or check online.\\nSince sheet lead is very thin, you can usually bend it with your hands or with a pair of pliers. Be sure to wear protective gloves to prevent any accidental cuts when bending.\\nUse a gram scale for measuring weight. These can be purchased from convenience stores, big-box stores, and online suppliers.\\n1-4. Seal off one end of the straw with your metal or steel weight if you don't have clay.\\nIf you're using metal or steel weights, push them into one end of the straw. For rods, slide them in. Regardless of whether you use metal or steel, seal it using silicone sealant. Snip the tube at a 45-degree angle, and hold the tip (using a silicone gun or your hands) at the same angle to the straw hole. Gently pull the trigger of the gun or squeeze the tube to apply a dab of silicone sealant underneath to seal the opening as evenly as possible.\\nTest your silicone on a piece of scrap to get a feel for the flow of the sealant before applying it to your straw.\\nUse as little silicone as possible to minimize weight.\\n1-5. Attach a clay ball to the bottom of the straw if you're not using metal or steel.\\nFor clay weights, place the ball on a flat surface and hold the straw vertically over it. Gently press the straw into the clay until it is secured. Always be sure that there are no holes in the clay that will let water into the straw.\\nAfter attaching the clay, hold the straw up in the air vertically and make sure that the ball doesn't fall off.\\n2. Calibrating Your Hydrometer\\n2-1. Float your hydrometer in water sealed side down and mark the water level.\\nOnce you place the straw into the water, the weight should pull it down until the water is a bit over its halfway point. After it's floating upright, use a waterproof permanent marker to draw a horizontal line at water level.\\nThe open end of the straw shouldn't extend more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top of the container of water. If it pokes out more than this, add weight to the straw to keep it from floating up too high and flipping onto its side.\\nFor additional weight, you can stick clay to the outside of the straw at the sealed end, or drop split shot sinkers, small nails, or pebbles down the inside of the straw until it floats at the right level.\\n2-2. Remove the hydrometer from the water and add measurement lines.\\nAfter removing the straw from water and drying it, it is calibrated for pure, unsalted water (either distilled or regular). From here, mark measurement lines on the straw above and below the horizontal calibration line. Each line should be about 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart. Use a ruler to help keep your lines accurate.\\nUse multiple colors for your lines, such as red for the zero and 10 millimetre (0.39 in) lines, and black for the lines between them.\\nIf you can't mark the lines 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart, aim for them to be at least as close as the width of the point your marker will allow. Take note of how far apart each line is and make sure all of them are equal distances apart.\\n2-3. Align your straw onto the straw image on the printed calibration chart.\\nPlace the straw onto the chart so that the bottom of the straw is on the bottom line. The calibration line on your straw should align with the diagonal chart line that is marked 1.0.\\nIf the straw doesn't align with the chart properly, wipe down the straw, attach another weight, and create another calibration line. Be sure that no water is in the straw to throw off the calibration.\\nPrint the calibration chart here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf\\n2-4. Draw colored marks at each of the other sloping lines on your calibration chart.\\nThe straw intersects with seven other lines on the calibration chart, each corresponding to 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7. Create horizontal lines on the straw at each of these intersection points using colored permanent marker.\\nIf you don't have a calibration chart, measure the distance from the bottom of your straw to the water-level marking in millimeters—this length will be called \\\"x.\\\" Using a calculator, calculate \\\"x/1.1\\\", which will tell you, in millimeters, where the 1.1 calibration mark should go. Use the measurement lines you drew onto the straw to help guide your markings and repeat the \\\"x/number\\\" calculation for each calibration mark.\\n3. Testing Your Hydrometer\\n3-1. Add 10 grams (2.5 teaspoons) of salt to 50 millilitres (0.21  c) of water.\\nIf you can't measure 10 grams of salt exactly using a scale, use a teaspoon to do so. Stir the water using a spare straw to ensure that the salt dissolves completely and then continue adding water until it reaches 100 millilitres (0.42  c). The solution is now 10 percent salt.\\n3-2. Put the hydrometer into the diluted the water and record the water level.\\nObserve where the water level meets the straw. Record the measurement of the line that aligns with the water's surface.\\n3-3. Remove the hydrometer and add more salt to increase the solution's density.\\nAdd the same amount of salt each time, repeating the above steps and recording the level to which the hydrometer now floats. Your readings should increase as you add more salt.\\nAdding 10 grams (0.35 oz) of salt at a time is standard.\\nIf you want to dilute your solution and decrease its density, add more water.\\n3-4. Measure the density\\nTest out other liquids in your hydrometer and see how dense they are. Most beers fall into the 1.030 to 1.0700 range, while pottery glazes measure at around 1.3 to 1.5.\\nAlways clean out your container after filling it with substances other than water to remove any residue.\\nHydrometers measure specific gravity. Since specific gravity is dimensionless, there is no unit of measurement.\\nTips\\nYou can also use your hydrometer to test other liquids, such as chilled fresh or salt water, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, and cooking oil. For liquids that may be harmful, you should have adult supervision.\\nIf you have access to a commercial hydrometer, you can use it to compare your measurements against those of your homemade hydrometer. Commercial hydrometers commonly measure the specific gravity of the liquids they are placed in, which is their density relative to that of water.\\nA substance with a specific gravity less than 1 is less dense than pure water, while a substance with a specific gravity greater than 1 is denser than pure water.\\nWarnings\\nDo not confuse a hydrometer with a hygrometer, which is an instrument used to measure relative humidity.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hydrometers are graduated floating devices that measure the densities of liquids. They are commonly used in the making of wine, beer, and spirits to monitor the fermentation process, and are also used often in school projects. Commercial hydrometers are tubes of glass weighted with metal, but you can make a simple hydrometer with materials purchased from grocery and hardware stores. Afterward, you can use it to test the density of water with various salt concentrations as well as other liquids.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Creating Your Hydrometer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your bulb, hydrometer, weight, and calibration chart.\", \"描述\": \"The bulb can be a graduated cylinder or narrow jar; the weight should be a piece of steel, other metal, or clay; the hydrometer is a standard straw. You also need a hydrometer calibration chart, which can be printed from numerous online sources, such as here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf.\\nYour bulb should be small enough to float freely in your graduated cylinder. Standard hydrometers are 20.32 centimetres (8.00 in) in overall length, including both the stem and the bulb.\\nMetal weights can be purchased at home hardware stores and should be 4 grams (0.14 oz) and small enough to fit into a straw. Clay can be purchased from craft stores or online suppliers.\\nPurchase a 250 millilitre (1.1  c) or 500 millilitre (2.1  c) graduated cylinder (online or from an office supply store) so that you don't risk it overflowing. For glass jars, purchase a clear 16 ounce (473 mL) clear glass type from a big-box store.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill the narrow jar or graduated cylinder with 100 millilitres (0.42  c) of water.\", \"描述\": \"If you're using a graduated cylinder, fill it to the 100 millilitre (0.42  c) line. If you're using a narrow jar (like an olive jar), fill it with about ⁄2 cup (120 mL) of water minus 1 tablespoon (15 mL) and mark a reference line on the outside of the jar with a permanent marker.\\nYou can use either distilled or tap water. Whichever you use, be sure to use the same type of water from the same source throughout the project.\\nWhen reading the water level on a graduated cylinder or marking your jar, always measure from the bottom of the meniscus—curved arc created on the water's surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a 4 gram (0.14 oz) weight using metal, steel, or true clay.\", \"描述\": \"Steel rods should be about 20 millimetres (0.79 in) long and 0.64 centimetres (0.25 in) thick. Sheet lead should be a bit thicker than 1 millimetre (0.039 in) and 15 by 20 millimetres (0.59 by 0.79 in) in size, and rolled up into a cylindrical shape. Clay balls should be free of voids or pits that could potentially trap air.\\nYou may be able to find steel parts such as steel disc blanks or washers that match these specifications without having to cut the metal yourself. Look at your local hardware store or check online.\\nSince sheet lead is very thin, you can usually bend it with your hands or with a pair of pliers. Be sure to wear protective gloves to prevent any accidental cuts when bending.\\nUse a gram scale for measuring weight. These can be purchased from convenience stores, big-box stores, and online suppliers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Seal off one end of the straw with your metal or steel weight if you don't have clay.\", \"描述\": \"If you're using metal or steel weights, push them into one end of the straw. For rods, slide them in. Regardless of whether you use metal or steel, seal it using silicone sealant. Snip the tube at a 45-degree angle, and hold the tip (using a silicone gun or your hands) at the same angle to the straw hole. Gently pull the trigger of the gun or squeeze the tube to apply a dab of silicone sealant underneath to seal the opening as evenly as possible.\\nTest your silicone on a piece of scrap to get a feel for the flow of the sealant before applying it to your straw.\\nUse as little silicone as possible to minimize weight.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach a clay ball to the bottom of the straw if you're not using metal or steel.\", \"描述\": \"For clay weights, place the ball on a flat surface and hold the straw vertically over it. Gently press the straw into the clay until it is secured. Always be sure that there are no holes in the clay that will let water into the straw.\\nAfter attaching the clay, hold the straw up in the air vertically and make sure that the ball doesn't fall off.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Calibrating Your Hydrometer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Float your hydrometer in water sealed side down and mark the water level.\", \"描述\": \"Once you place the straw into the water, the weight should pull it down until the water is a bit over its halfway point. After it's floating upright, use a waterproof permanent marker to draw a horizontal line at water level.\\nThe open end of the straw shouldn't extend more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top of the container of water. If it pokes out more than this, add weight to the straw to keep it from floating up too high and flipping onto its side.\\nFor additional weight, you can stick clay to the outside of the straw at the sealed end, or drop split shot sinkers, small nails, or pebbles down the inside of the straw until it floats at the right level.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the hydrometer from the water and add measurement lines.\", \"描述\": \"After removing the straw from water and drying it, it is calibrated for pure, unsalted water (either distilled or regular). From here, mark measurement lines on the straw above and below the horizontal calibration line. Each line should be about 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart. Use a ruler to help keep your lines accurate.\\nUse multiple colors for your lines, such as red for the zero and 10 millimetre (0.39 in) lines, and black for the lines between them.\\nIf you can't mark the lines 1 millimetre (0.039 in) apart, aim for them to be at least as close as the width of the point your marker will allow. Take note of how far apart each line is and make sure all of them are equal distances apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Align your straw onto the straw image on the printed calibration chart.\", \"描述\": \"Place the straw onto the chart so that the bottom of the straw is on the bottom line. The calibration line on your straw should align with the diagonal chart line that is marked 1.0.\\nIf the straw doesn't align with the chart properly, wipe down the straw, attach another weight, and create another calibration line. Be sure that no water is in the straw to throw off the calibration.\\nPrint the calibration chart here: http://www.potteryatoldtoolijooaschool.com/floating_straw_hydrometer.pdf\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Draw colored marks at each of the other sloping lines on your calibration chart.\", \"描述\": \"The straw intersects with seven other lines on the calibration chart, each corresponding to 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, and 1.7. Create horizontal lines on the straw at each of these intersection points using colored permanent marker.\\nIf you don't have a calibration chart, measure the distance from the bottom of your straw to the water-level marking in millimeters—this length will be called \\\"x.\\\" Using a calculator, calculate \\\"x/1.1\\\", which will tell you, in millimeters, where the 1.1 calibration mark should go. Use the measurement lines you drew onto the straw to help guide your markings and repeat the \\\"x/number\\\" calculation for each calibration mark.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Testing Your Hydrometer\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add 10 grams (2.5 teaspoons) of salt to 50 millilitres (0.21  c) of water.\", \"描述\": \"If you can't measure 10 grams of salt exactly using a scale, use a teaspoon to do so. Stir the water using a spare straw to ensure that the salt dissolves completely and then continue adding water until it reaches 100 millilitres (0.42  c). The solution is now 10 percent salt.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Put the hydrometer into the diluted the water and record the water level.\", \"描述\": \"Observe where the water level meets the straw. Record the measurement of the line that aligns with the water's surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the hydrometer and add more salt to increase the solution's density.\", \"描述\": \"Add the same amount of salt each time, repeating the above steps and recording the level to which the hydrometer now floats. Your readings should increase as you add more salt.\\nAdding 10 grams (0.35 oz) of salt at a time is standard.\\nIf you want to dilute your solution and decrease its density, add more water.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Measure the density\", \"描述\": \"Test out other liquids in your hydrometer and see how dense they are. Most beers fall into the 1.030 to 1.0700 range, while pottery glazes measure at around 1.3 to 1.5.\\nAlways clean out your container after filling it with substances other than water to remove any residue.\\nHydrometers measure specific gravity. Since specific gravity is dimensionless, there is no unit of measurement.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can also use your hydrometer to test other liquids, such as chilled fresh or salt water, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, and cooking oil. For liquids that may be harmful, you should have adult supervision.\\n\", \"If you have access to a commercial hydrometer, you can use it to compare your measurements against those of your homemade hydrometer. Commercial hydrometers commonly measure the specific gravity of the liquids they are placed in, which is their density relative to that of water.\\n\", \"A substance with a specific gravity less than 1 is less dense than pure water, while a substance with a specific gravity greater than 1 is denser than pure water.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not confuse a hydrometer with a hygrometer, which is an instrument used to measure relative humidity.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,395
How to Build a Hydroponic Garden
1. Constructing the Hydroponic System 1-1. Build the flood table. The flood table will hold the water for the garden. You can build a simple flood table out of wood. The width of the flood table will depend on how much you want to grow in the garden and how much water you want to use. For a small garden, make a rectangular frame out of treated lumber that is 4 feet, 1-inch (1.2 metres, 2.54 cm) wide by 8 feet, 1-inch long (2.4 metres, 2.54 cm). Then, line it with a polyethylene plastic sheet. This will hold 20 gallons (75 L) of water. You can also use a wide, deep plastic tray as the flood table. Pick a container that can hold 10 to 20 gallons (38 to 75 L) of water. You may want to line the tray with plastic to ensure it does not leak. 1-2. Make a floating platform out of styrofoam. To prevent the roots and soil of the plants from rotting, make a floating platform so they can float in the water. For a small garden, use a 4 by 8 foot (1.2 by 2.4 metre) sheet of 1 ½ inch (3.8 cm) thick styrofoam. Check that the edges of the platform can move up and down so the plants can float. 1-3. Cut 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7 cm) wide holes in the platform. Use a plant pot as a guide when cutting the holes with a saw. Cut enough holes to fit all the plants you want to grow. Make sure the plant pots fit snuggly in the holes and do not extend beyond 1/16 inch (0.4 cm) below the styrofoam platform. 1-4. Add drip emitters to the flood table. Drip emitters help to drip out water from the garden to ensure the water does not sit stagnant in the flood table. You can find them in the irrigation supply section at your local hardware store or nursery. They come in different drip rates, based on maximum gallons per hour (gph). For a standard garden, you want the flood table to hold 5 gallons (19 L) of water per hour. So, get two drip emitters that have a rate of 2gph. Puncture two holes in the bottom of the flood table. Then, push the drip emitters into the holes. Seal any gaps around the drip emitters with epoxy or hot glue. 1-5. Place the flood table on a stand with a bucket. The flood table will need to be elevated on a stand or stool. Place a bucket under the flood table, directly underneath the drip emitters. The bucket will catch the water as it drips out of the flood table. If you are growing the hydroponic garden outside, place it in a sunny spot in your yard. Position the flood table so it gets a maximum amount of sun. 1-6. Fill the flood table with water. Pour enough water to fill the flood table halfway. Depending on the size you have chosen for your flood table, this may require 5 to 20 gallons (19 to 75 L) of water. You can always add more water to the flood table once you add the crops. 1-7. Set up grow lights if you are growing indoors. Hydroponic gardens can be grown outdoors in warm climates, especially climates that tend to get year-round sunlight. If you are growing the garden indoors, you will need grow lights. Use metal halide lights or sodium bulbs. Position the grow lights over the flood table so it gets a lot of light. 1-8. Get plant food. You will then need to add nutrient-rich plant food or fertilizer to the water so the plants can thrive. Look for plant food rich in calcium, magnesium, and other nutrients at your local plant supply store or gardening center. You can buy plant food specifically formulated for a hydroponic garden. It will be rich in the nutrients needed for plants grown in water. 2. Adding the Crops 2-1. Go for leafy greens and herbs. Hydroponic gardens are best for plants with shallow roots, such as leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale. You can also grow herbs like mint, basil, and dill. Choose plants that have similar light and water needs. This way, when they grow close together in the garden, they all do well and thrive. As you expand your hydroponic garden, you may be able to grow vegetables with deep roots like beets, squash, and cucumbers. Start small by choosing just 1 or 2 plants to grow. All plants have different needs in terms of nutrients, and will require a specific fertilization schedule. It's easiest to start with 1-2 plants so you can figure out which nutrients you need and learn what issues to watch for (and how to correct them). 2-2. Make the potting mixture. Start with a base that will provide moisture and air for the plants. Use eight parts perlite and one part coco fiber. You can also use vermiculite or peat moss instead of coco fiber. If you live in an arid climate, add more coco fiber to the perlite. For a humid climate, add less coco fiber. 2-3. Put the mixture in planting pots. Use 4-inch pots that have holes on the bottom, or netted planting pots. The holes will allow the plants to get water and plant food in the hydroponic garden. Fill the pots ⅓ of the way with the mixture. 2-4. Plant the crops. Use sprouted seedlings in cubes of soil. Place the cube with the started seedling in the pot. Pour media around the sides and top of the plant. It should be snug in the pot. Using seedlings that have already been planted and started will make it easier for you to get your garden off the ground. Put one cube of started seedlings per pot. 2-5. Place the crops in the flood table. Water the crops lightly and then place them in the flood table. If you are using a floating platform, place the pots in the cut holes. If you are not using a floating platform, simply place them in the water in the flood table. Make sure the roots of the plants are submerged in the water only ⅙ of an inch. This will ensure the roots do not get too wet but still get enough water to thrive. 3. Maintaining the Hydroponic Garden 3-1. Water the plants once a day. Water the plants at the base every day. If they start to wilt, water them twice a day. You should also add more water to the flood table if it starts to look scarce. If the plants do not thrive as much as you’d like, they may not be getting enough air and too much moisture. Check if the roots of the plants are rotting. If they are starting to rot or smell, move them higher up so their roots are less submerged in the water. 3-2. Add more plant food as needed. The water in the flood table should drip slowly out through the drip emitters into the bucket underneath. This can take seven to 10 days. As this happens, add a fresh batch of plant food to the bucket and more water. Then, pour the contents of the bucket into the flood table. This will ensure the plants get the nutrients they need as they grow in the hydroponic garden. 3-3. Confirm the plants are getting enough light. If you are growing the hydroponic garden outdoors, make sure the plants get constant, direct sunlight 10-15 hours a day. If you are growing the garden indoors, have grow lights on the plants for 15-20 hours. Set up the lights on a timer so they shut off automatically at a set time each day. You can buy grow lights that come with a timer. Or you can set a timer yourself and shut off the grow lights as needed. 3-4. Harvest the garden as it grows. Use clean gardening shears to trim the garden. Prune the garden for size and for eating. Cut leaves for eating at the stem. Harvest your yield as it grows so it thrives. You can then add new plants to the flood table or replace existing plants based on your needs.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Hydroponic System\\n1-1. Build the flood table.\\nThe flood table will hold the water for the garden. You can build a simple flood table out of wood. The width of the flood table will depend on how much you want to grow in the garden and how much water you want to use.\\nFor a small garden, make a rectangular frame out of treated lumber that is 4 feet, 1-inch (1.2 metres, 2.54 cm) wide by 8 feet, 1-inch long (2.4 metres, 2.54 cm). Then, line it with a polyethylene plastic sheet. This will hold 20 gallons (75 L) of water.\\nYou can also use a wide, deep plastic tray as the flood table. Pick a container that can hold 10 to 20 gallons (38 to 75 L) of water. You may want to line the tray with plastic to ensure it does not leak.\\n1-2. Make a floating platform out of styrofoam.\\nTo prevent the roots and soil of the plants from rotting, make a floating platform so they can float in the water. For a small garden, use a 4 by 8 foot (1.2 by 2.4 metre) sheet of 1 ½ inch (3.8 cm) thick styrofoam. Check that the edges of the platform can move up and down so the plants can float.\\n1-3. Cut 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7 cm) wide holes in the platform.\\nUse a plant pot as a guide when cutting the holes with a saw. Cut enough holes to fit all the plants you want to grow. Make sure the plant pots fit snuggly in the holes and do not extend beyond 1/16 inch (0.4 cm) below the styrofoam platform.\\n1-4. Add drip emitters to the flood table.\\nDrip emitters help to drip out water from the garden to ensure the water does not sit stagnant in the flood table. You can find them in the irrigation supply section at your local hardware store or nursery. They come in different drip rates, based on maximum gallons per hour (gph).\\nFor a standard garden, you want the flood table to hold 5 gallons (19 L) of water per hour. So, get two drip emitters that have a rate of 2gph.\\nPuncture two holes in the bottom of the flood table. Then, push the drip emitters into the holes. Seal any gaps around the drip emitters with epoxy or hot glue.\\n1-5. Place the flood table on a stand with a bucket.\\nThe flood table will need to be elevated on a stand or stool. Place a bucket under the flood table, directly underneath the drip emitters. The bucket will catch the water as it drips out of the flood table.\\nIf you are growing the hydroponic garden outside, place it in a sunny spot in your yard. Position the flood table so it gets a maximum amount of sun.\\n1-6. Fill the flood table with water.\\nPour enough water to fill the flood table halfway. Depending on the size you have chosen for your flood table, this may require 5 to 20 gallons (19 to 75 L) of water.\\nYou can always add more water to the flood table once you add the crops.\\n1-7. Set up grow lights if you are growing indoors.\\nHydroponic gardens can be grown outdoors in warm climates, especially climates that tend to get year-round sunlight. If you are growing the garden indoors, you will need grow lights. Use metal halide lights or sodium bulbs.\\nPosition the grow lights over the flood table so it gets a lot of light.\\n1-8. Get plant food.\\nYou will then need to add nutrient-rich plant food or fertilizer to the water so the plants can thrive. Look for plant food rich in calcium, magnesium, and other nutrients at your local plant supply store or gardening center.\\nYou can buy plant food specifically formulated for a hydroponic garden. It will be rich in the nutrients needed for plants grown in water.\\n2. Adding the Crops\\n2-1. Go for leafy greens and herbs.\\nHydroponic gardens are best for plants with shallow roots, such as leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale. You can also grow herbs like mint, basil, and dill.\\nChoose plants that have similar light and water needs. This way, when they grow close together in the garden, they all do well and thrive.\\nAs you expand your hydroponic garden, you may be able to grow vegetables with deep roots like beets, squash, and cucumbers.\\nStart small by choosing just 1 or 2 plants to grow. All plants have different needs in terms of nutrients, and will require a specific fertilization schedule. It's easiest to start with 1-2 plants so you can figure out which nutrients you need and learn what issues to watch for (and how to correct them).\\n2-2. Make the potting mixture.\\nStart with a base that will provide moisture and air for the plants. Use eight parts perlite and one part coco fiber. You can also use vermiculite or peat moss instead of coco fiber.\\nIf you live in an arid climate, add more coco fiber to the perlite. For a humid climate, add less coco fiber.\\n2-3. Put the mixture in planting pots.\\nUse 4-inch pots that have holes on the bottom, or netted planting pots. The holes will allow the plants to get water and plant food in the hydroponic garden. Fill the pots ⅓ of the way with the mixture.\\n2-4. Plant the crops.\\nUse sprouted seedlings in cubes of soil. Place the cube with the started seedling in the pot. Pour media around the sides and top of the plant. It should be snug in the pot.\\nUsing seedlings that have already been planted and started will make it easier for you to get your garden off the ground. Put one cube of started seedlings per pot.\\n2-5. Place the crops in the flood table.\\nWater the crops lightly and then place them in the flood table. If you are using a floating platform, place the pots in the cut holes. If you are not using a floating platform, simply place them in the water in the flood table.\\nMake sure the roots of the plants are submerged in the water only ⅙ of an inch. This will ensure the roots do not get too wet but still get enough water to thrive.\\n3. Maintaining the Hydroponic Garden\\n3-1. Water the plants once a day.\\nWater the plants at the base every day. If they start to wilt, water them twice a day. You should also add more water to the flood table if it starts to look scarce.\\nIf the plants do not thrive as much as you’d like, they may not be getting enough air and too much moisture. Check if the roots of the plants are rotting. If they are starting to rot or smell, move them higher up so their roots are less submerged in the water.\\n3-2. Add more plant food as needed.\\nThe water in the flood table should drip slowly out through the drip emitters into the bucket underneath. This can take seven to 10 days. As this happens, add a fresh batch of plant food to the bucket and more water. Then, pour the contents of the bucket into the flood table.\\nThis will ensure the plants get the nutrients they need as they grow in the hydroponic garden.\\n3-3. Confirm the plants are getting enough light.\\nIf you are growing the hydroponic garden outdoors, make sure the plants get constant, direct sunlight 10-15 hours a day. If you are growing the garden indoors, have grow lights on the plants for 15-20 hours. Set up the lights on a timer so they shut off automatically at a set time each day.\\nYou can buy grow lights that come with a timer. Or you can set a timer yourself and shut off the grow lights as needed.\\n3-4. Harvest the garden as it grows.\\nUse clean gardening shears to trim the garden. Prune the garden for size and for eating. Cut leaves for eating at the stem. Harvest your yield as it grows so it thrives.\\nYou can then add new plants to the flood table or replace existing plants based on your needs.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Hydroponics is a gardening system where you grow plants in a soilless solution, usually water. A hydroponic garden has a 30-50 percent faster growth rate and a larger yield than a soil garden. Hydroponic gardens also have fewer issues with bugs, pests, and diseases. To build your own hydroponic garden, start by constructing the hydroponic system. Then, add the crops to the system so they can grow. Maintain the hydroponic garden as it develops and enjoy happy, healthy plants at home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Hydroponic System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build the flood table.\", \"描述\": \"The flood table will hold the water for the garden. You can build a simple flood table out of wood. The width of the flood table will depend on how much you want to grow in the garden and how much water you want to use.\\nFor a small garden, make a rectangular frame out of treated lumber that is 4 feet, 1-inch (1.2 metres, 2.54 cm) wide by 8 feet, 1-inch long (2.4 metres, 2.54 cm). Then, line it with a polyethylene plastic sheet. This will hold 20 gallons (75 L) of water.\\nYou can also use a wide, deep plastic tray as the flood table. Pick a container that can hold 10 to 20 gallons (38 to 75 L) of water. You may want to line the tray with plastic to ensure it does not leak.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make a floating platform out of styrofoam.\", \"描述\": \"To prevent the roots and soil of the plants from rotting, make a floating platform so they can float in the water. For a small garden, use a 4 by 8 foot (1.2 by 2.4 metre) sheet of 1 ½ inch (3.8 cm) thick styrofoam. Check that the edges of the platform can move up and down so the plants can float.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7 cm) wide holes in the platform.\", \"描述\": \"Use a plant pot as a guide when cutting the holes with a saw. Cut enough holes to fit all the plants you want to grow. Make sure the plant pots fit snuggly in the holes and do not extend beyond 1/16 inch (0.4 cm) below the styrofoam platform.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add drip emitters to the flood table.\", \"描述\": \"Drip emitters help to drip out water from the garden to ensure the water does not sit stagnant in the flood table. You can find them in the irrigation supply section at your local hardware store or nursery. They come in different drip rates, based on maximum gallons per hour (gph).\\nFor a standard garden, you want the flood table to hold 5 gallons (19 L) of water per hour. So, get two drip emitters that have a rate of 2gph.\\nPuncture two holes in the bottom of the flood table. Then, push the drip emitters into the holes. Seal any gaps around the drip emitters with epoxy or hot glue.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the flood table on a stand with a bucket.\", \"描述\": \"The flood table will need to be elevated on a stand or stool. Place a bucket under the flood table, directly underneath the drip emitters. The bucket will catch the water as it drips out of the flood table.\\nIf you are growing the hydroponic garden outside, place it in a sunny spot in your yard. Position the flood table so it gets a maximum amount of sun.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Fill the flood table with water.\", \"描述\": \"Pour enough water to fill the flood table halfway. Depending on the size you have chosen for your flood table, this may require 5 to 20 gallons (19 to 75 L) of water.\\nYou can always add more water to the flood table once you add the crops.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Set up grow lights if you are growing indoors.\", \"描述\": \"Hydroponic gardens can be grown outdoors in warm climates, especially climates that tend to get year-round sunlight. If you are growing the garden indoors, you will need grow lights. Use metal halide lights or sodium bulbs.\\nPosition the grow lights over the flood table so it gets a lot of light.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Get plant food.\", \"描述\": \"You will then need to add nutrient-rich plant food or fertilizer to the water so the plants can thrive. Look for plant food rich in calcium, magnesium, and other nutrients at your local plant supply store or gardening center.\\nYou can buy plant food specifically formulated for a hydroponic garden. It will be rich in the nutrients needed for plants grown in water.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Adding the Crops\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Go for leafy greens and herbs.\", \"描述\": \"Hydroponic gardens are best for plants with shallow roots, such as leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale. You can also grow herbs like mint, basil, and dill.\\nChoose plants that have similar light and water needs. This way, when they grow close together in the garden, they all do well and thrive.\\nAs you expand your hydroponic garden, you may be able to grow vegetables with deep roots like beets, squash, and cucumbers.\\nStart small by choosing just 1 or 2 plants to grow. All plants have different needs in terms of nutrients, and will require a specific fertilization schedule. It's easiest to start with 1-2 plants so you can figure out which nutrients you need and learn what issues to watch for (and how to correct them).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make the potting mixture.\", \"描述\": \"Start with a base that will provide moisture and air for the plants. Use eight parts perlite and one part coco fiber. You can also use vermiculite or peat moss instead of coco fiber.\\nIf you live in an arid climate, add more coco fiber to the perlite. For a humid climate, add less coco fiber.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the mixture in planting pots.\", \"描述\": \"Use 4-inch pots that have holes on the bottom, or netted planting pots. The holes will allow the plants to get water and plant food in the hydroponic garden. Fill the pots ⅓ of the way with the mixture.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plant the crops.\", \"描述\": \"Use sprouted seedlings in cubes of soil. Place the cube with the started seedling in the pot. Pour media around the sides and top of the plant. It should be snug in the pot.\\nUsing seedlings that have already been planted and started will make it easier for you to get your garden off the ground. Put one cube of started seedlings per pot.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place the crops in the flood table.\", \"描述\": \"Water the crops lightly and then place them in the flood table. If you are using a floating platform, place the pots in the cut holes. If you are not using a floating platform, simply place them in the water in the flood table.\\nMake sure the roots of the plants are submerged in the water only ⅙ of an inch. This will ensure the roots do not get too wet but still get enough water to thrive.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Maintaining the Hydroponic Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Water the plants once a day.\", \"描述\": \"Water the plants at the base every day. If they start to wilt, water them twice a day. You should also add more water to the flood table if it starts to look scarce.\\nIf the plants do not thrive as much as you’d like, they may not be getting enough air and too much moisture. Check if the roots of the plants are rotting. If they are starting to rot or smell, move them higher up so their roots are less submerged in the water.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add more plant food as needed.\", \"描述\": \"The water in the flood table should drip slowly out through the drip emitters into the bucket underneath. This can take seven to 10 days. As this happens, add a fresh batch of plant food to the bucket and more water. Then, pour the contents of the bucket into the flood table.\\nThis will ensure the plants get the nutrients they need as they grow in the hydroponic garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Confirm the plants are getting enough light.\", \"描述\": \"If you are growing the hydroponic garden outdoors, make sure the plants get constant, direct sunlight 10-15 hours a day. If you are growing the garden indoors, have grow lights on the plants for 15-20 hours. Set up the lights on a timer so they shut off automatically at a set time each day.\\nYou can buy grow lights that come with a timer. Or you can set a timer yourself and shut off the grow lights as needed.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Harvest the garden as it grows.\", \"描述\": \"Use clean gardening shears to trim the garden. Prune the garden for size and for eating. Cut leaves for eating at the stem. Harvest your yield as it grows so it thrives.\\nYou can then add new plants to the flood table or replace existing plants based on your needs.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,396
How to Build a Japanese Garden
1. Building a Zen Garden 1-1. Build a Zen garden if you want a completely dry garden. Zen gardens, also known as Japanese rock gardens, are designed to be dry. They are typically comprised of different sized boulders, gravel, sand, and rocks. Boulders and rocks represent islands and the sand and gravel are meant to represent water, which is why wave designs are typically drawn in the sand and gravel. 1-2. Choose a flat piece of land to build your garden on. Zen gardens are typically made on flat and leveled landscapes, so it's important that you choose the flattest possible piece of land. You may need to level the land yourself with a bit of digging and dirt packing. These gardens are typically made in the shape of a square. Zen gardens can vary in size, so how big you make it is completely up to you. Zen gardens are often used for meditation, so make the garden big enough for you to meditate in. Since Zen gardens are dry gardens, you should remove existing grass or flowers from the area in which you are building your garden. Natural moss, small trees, and shrubbery are the types of plants typically found in Zen gardens. If you have these types of plants, do not remove them. If you need to level your own land, use a carpenter's level to make sure that you've made your ground as even as possible. 1-3. Add rocks, boulders, and sand to your garden. Start by creating a border around your Zen garden with rocks and boulders. This will help keep your gravel and sand inside of your designated Zen garden, and stop it from spreading all over the rest of your yard. After you've lined your Zen garden with rocks, spread a layer of gravel or sand over the bottom of your garden (it should be 3-4 inches thick). Then, place different sized rocks and boulders throughout the rest of the garden. Rocks are typically placed in small groupings throughout the garden, as this creates a simple and polished look. Your rocks and boulders should vary in size from very large to small. 1-4. Incorporate the proper plants into your garden. Zen gardens are simplistic and typically include limited plant life – mostly moss, small trees, and shrubbery. Besides this limited addition of plants, the main focus of Zen gardens is the raked gravel symbolizing streaming water. Don't add too many elements, as Zen gardens are meant to be simple and relaxing. If you do not have natural trees or moss in the area of your Zen garden, add a few small potted plants to the garden. Small shrubs and bamboo plants make for good additions to your Zen garden. 1-5. Rake water designs into your Zen garden. It is important to rake your gravel or sand so that it replicates flowing water, as this is a key element to a proper Zen garden. You can use a regular garden rake to pull designs through your sand or gravel. It's best to use a rake that has larger, wider set teeth, as this will create a better, more legible design. Use a broom, or a broom handle, to perfect the grooves created by the rake. Once the grooves are created with a rake, use a broom or broom handle to press down into the grooves. This will make the grooves deeper and easier to see. The bristle end of a broom is typically thicker and makes wider, softer indentations than the handle of a broom would. The handle end of a broom is normally thinner and is easier to use when making smaller, tighter designs. The water designs are meant to be calming and relaxing, so creating them should also be a relaxed process. Slowly and carefully pull your rake through the gravel to create beautiful designs. You can create circular designs, straight designs, or flowing designs. This is your garden, so create whichever designs are the most beautiful to you. Raking should be a part of the regular maintenance of the garden, done as a form of meditation rather than a chore. Touch up your water designs every week. 2. Creating a Tea Garden 2-1. Build a tea garden. Traditional Japanese tea gardens are divided into two areas that are separated by a simple barrier, such as a small gate or a wall of rocks. This barrier should also have an opening to walk through. The outer garden is meant to be a pathway into the tea ceremony, and the inner garden is where the tea ceremony takes place. Often, the inner garden contains a tea house. The purpose of a tea garden is to get into a peaceful state of mind before beginning a tea ceremony. The inner garden is the main focus of a tea garden, as this is where the tea ceremony takes place. The outer garden can be as large or small as you'd like it to be. It should, at the very least, be a walkway into the tea house. These gardens can be on flat or hilly pieces of land. However, you should create a flat surface to build your tea house on. 2-2. Create the outer garden. The outer garden of a tea garden serves as a pathway to the inner garden. Outer gardens generally include a pathway to the inner garden, a few simple shrubs and plants, and some type of water element (such as a waterfall, small pond, or fountain). Traditionally, tea gardens were kept deliberately natural and woodsy to provide a calming transition between the outer world to a tranquil tea ceremony. The pathways are typically made out of flat stones or wooden planks. This pathway can be as long or short as your space allows, and can be set up in a straight or winding path. Plants in the outer garden should be informal. Do not include bright plants or flowers. Instead, stick to mosses, shrubs, and trees that would be found in nature. Include a few lanterns to light the pathway for nighttime tea ceremonies. 2-3. Include a cleansing area between the two gardens. Ritual cleansing is important in a tea garden, as it purifies a person before they begin their tea ceremony. A stone water basin (a tsukubai) should be placed in an area between the outer and inner gardens where visitors can wash their mouth and hands. These basins are typically built low to the ground so that visitors must crouch or kneel to cleanse themselves. Crouching or kneeling is also viewed as a sign of respect. The cleansing area should be right before one enters into the inner garden. You must cleanse yourself before entering the inner garden. 2-4. Create a wall or gate to separate the outer and inner gardens. A small gate or wall of rocks is usually built to separate the outer garden from the inner garden. The wall represents official entry into the tea garden, a place of relaxation and peace from the outside world. You can purchase a small wooden or metal gate to install, or you can make a small wall out of rocks and boulders. Build a simple fence out of bamboo. Insert bamboo poles into the ground, and pack dirt or cement around the base of each one to hold it in place. Once you have your posts in place, attach bamboo support poles between each post. 2-5. Plant the inner garden. Tea gardens are meant to be simple and serene, so only use natural plants and materials to build the inner garden.The plants used in inner gardens should be ferns, mosses and shrubs. It's acceptable to place one flowering plant inside the actual teahouse. 2-6. Build a tea house for your tea ceremonies. The inner garden's focal point should be a tea house. Your tea house doesn't have to be a completely built house; it can simply be a wooden structure with beams and some type of roof. Use natural woods to build your tea house so that it flows with nature. Your tea house should include a sitting area with a low table for you and your visitors to enjoy your tea. If you'd like, you can place pillows or cushions on the ground of your teahouse for you and your guests to sit on. 3. Choosing to Build a Strolling Garden 3-1. Create a strolling garden if you want a larger, more luxurious garden. During the Edo Period, the wealthier class of Japan enjoyed a great deal of extravagance and recreation. Strolling gardens with ponds, islands and hills were built on large pieces of land. These gardens usually included a circular trail that allowed people to enjoy the garden from many different perspectives. Many strolling gardens served as extravagant entrances (or the outer gardens) of tea gardens. 3-2. Build your strolling garden in the proper area. Strolling gardens require more space than other types of Japanese gardens, making them the least practical type of Japanese garden for most people. However, if you happen to have a huge backyard or a giant piece of land, a strolling garden may be perfect for you. These gardens usually feature a large variety of features – from ponds and rivers to pathways and hills (sometimes artificial hills) – which also makes them one of the most expensive types of Japanese gardens to build. 3-3. Plan your garden. Many strolling gardens rely on artificial landscape to make them extremely beautiful and surreal. You should create a pond or river if your property doesn't already have one, as these gardens always have some type of water element. You should also add some hills to your strolling garden if your property is naturally flat. You'll also need to plan a strolling path for your garden. This will help your garden to look like a traditional Japanese strolling garden. Plan your garden on paper before actually creating it. This will help you map out all of the work that needs to be done, and help you determine whether or not you need to hire contractors to help you. 3-4. Create your landscape. If you plan on adding artificial landscapes, such as small bodies of water or hills, you may need to hire professionals to help you. Artificial hills are usually created by adding mounds of packed dirt to your land, and planting grass on top of these mounds. The goal is to make these new hills a natural part of your existing landscape. Creating a river or pond may be a bit more challenging, as you'll need to dig out chunks of land and transform them into bodies of water. These are big landscaping tasks, and getting professional help is recommended. 3-5. Make your strolling path. After you've built your hills and water elements, you should build a strolling path into your garden. You can use gravel, pebbles, wooden planks, or large stepping stones to make your walkway. Your path should flow nicely through your garden. 3-6. Add decorative elements to your strolling garden. Whereas the other types of Japanese gardens are usually more natural, strolling gardens can be a bit more extravagant. Decorate your garden with benches, large statues or sculptures, incorporate bright, flowering plants, line your pathway with beautiful lanterns, add a few fountains throughout your garden, etc. 4. Building a Courtyard Garden 4-1. Choose a courtyard garden if you're looking to build a small a garden. Courtyard gardens typically incorporate simple non-flowering plants, a dry stream (made with sand or gravel), and small water elements (such as a fountain). They are usually easy to make and easy to maintain. These gardens are typically meant to be viewed, but not entered. 4-2. Pick the right location for your garden. Despite their name, you don't need an actual courtyard to create a courtyard garden. Traditional courtyard gardens are designed for smaller, confined spaces, which makes areas like rooftops, porches, or terraces perfect for them. It's also recommended to incorporate plants that don't require much sunlight, as this will give you more options when choosing a location for your garden. 4-3. Create a border for your garden. Using a combination of rocks and plants, create a border for your courtyard garden. This will help you and your visitors distinguish where your garden begins. Once you've created the border for your garden, you can begin decorating it with sand, additional rocks and plants, as well as a simple tree or fountain. 4-4. Add the proper elements to your garden. It's easiest to use potted plants in courtyard gardens, as this will allow you to build your garden almost anywhere. Choose plants that require little to no sunlight, such as ferns and palm plants. Pour sand or gravel onto the ground of your courtyard garden, and create a dry stream by raking a water design into it. Incorporate a few rocks, a small tree, or a fountain for additional scenery. Tips Hire a contractor come out and help you plan out your garden.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Zen Garden\\n1-1. Build a Zen garden if you want a completely dry garden.\\nZen gardens, also known as Japanese rock gardens, are designed to be dry. They are typically comprised of different sized boulders, gravel, sand, and rocks. Boulders and rocks represent islands and the sand and gravel are meant to represent water, which is why wave designs are typically drawn in the sand and gravel.\\n1-2. Choose a flat piece of land to build your garden on.\\nZen gardens are typically made on flat and leveled landscapes, so it's important that you choose the flattest possible piece of land. You may need to level the land yourself with a bit of digging and dirt packing. These gardens are typically made in the shape of a square.\\nZen gardens can vary in size, so how big you make it is completely up to you. Zen gardens are often used for meditation, so make the garden big enough for you to meditate in.\\nSince Zen gardens are dry gardens, you should remove existing grass or flowers from the area in which you are building your garden. Natural moss, small trees, and shrubbery are the types of plants typically found in Zen gardens. If you have these types of plants, do not remove them.\\nIf you need to level your own land, use a carpenter's level to make sure that you've made your ground as even as possible.\\n1-3. Add rocks, boulders, and sand to your garden.\\nStart by creating a border around your Zen garden with rocks and boulders. This will help keep your gravel and sand inside of your designated Zen garden, and stop it from spreading all over the rest of your yard. After you've lined your Zen garden with rocks, spread a layer of gravel or sand over the bottom of your garden (it should be 3-4 inches thick). Then, place different sized rocks and boulders throughout the rest of the garden.\\nRocks are typically placed in small groupings throughout the garden, as this creates a simple and polished look. Your rocks and boulders should vary in size from very large to small.\\n1-4. Incorporate the proper plants into your garden.\\nZen gardens are simplistic and typically include limited plant life – mostly moss, small trees, and shrubbery. Besides this limited addition of plants, the main focus of Zen gardens is the raked gravel symbolizing streaming water. Don't add too many elements, as Zen gardens are meant to be simple and relaxing.\\nIf you do not have natural trees or moss in the area of your Zen garden, add a few small potted plants to the garden. Small shrubs and bamboo plants make for good additions to your Zen garden.\\n1-5. Rake water designs into your Zen garden.\\nIt is important to rake your gravel or sand so that it replicates flowing water, as this is a key element to a proper Zen garden. You can use a regular garden rake to pull designs through your sand or gravel. It's best to use a rake that has larger, wider set teeth, as this will create a better, more legible design.\\nUse a broom, or a broom handle, to perfect the grooves created by the rake. Once the grooves are created with a rake, use a broom or broom handle to press down into the grooves. This will make the grooves deeper and easier to see. The bristle end of a broom is typically thicker and makes wider, softer indentations than the handle of a broom would. The handle end of a broom is normally thinner and is easier to use when making smaller, tighter designs.\\nThe water designs are meant to be calming and relaxing, so creating them should also be a relaxed process. Slowly and carefully pull your rake through the gravel to create beautiful designs.\\nYou can create circular designs, straight designs, or flowing designs. This is your garden, so create whichever designs are the most beautiful to you.\\nRaking should be a part of the regular maintenance of the garden, done as a form of meditation rather than a chore. Touch up your water designs every week.\\n2. Creating a Tea Garden\\n2-1. Build a tea garden.\\nTraditional Japanese tea gardens are divided into two areas that are separated by a simple barrier, such as a small gate or a wall of rocks. This barrier should also have an opening to walk through. The outer garden is meant to be a pathway into the tea ceremony, and the inner garden is where the tea ceremony takes place. Often, the inner garden contains a tea house. The purpose of a tea garden is to get into a peaceful state of mind before beginning a tea ceremony.\\nThe inner garden is the main focus of a tea garden, as this is where the tea ceremony takes place. The outer garden can be as large or small as you'd like it to be. It should, at the very least, be a walkway into the tea house.\\nThese gardens can be on flat or hilly pieces of land. However, you should create a flat surface to build your tea house on.\\n2-2. Create the outer garden.\\nThe outer garden of a tea garden serves as a pathway to the inner garden. Outer gardens generally include a pathway to the inner garden, a few simple shrubs and plants, and some type of water element (such as a waterfall, small pond, or fountain). Traditionally, tea gardens were kept deliberately natural and woodsy to provide a calming transition between the outer world to a tranquil tea ceremony.\\nThe pathways are typically made out of flat stones or wooden planks. This pathway can be as long or short as your space allows, and can be set up in a straight or winding path.\\nPlants in the outer garden should be informal. Do not include bright plants or flowers. Instead, stick to mosses, shrubs, and trees that would be found in nature.\\nInclude a few lanterns to light the pathway for nighttime tea ceremonies.\\n2-3. Include a cleansing area between the two gardens.\\nRitual cleansing is important in a tea garden, as it purifies a person before they begin their tea ceremony. A stone water basin (a tsukubai) should be placed in an area between the outer and inner gardens where visitors can wash their mouth and hands. These basins are typically built low to the ground so that visitors must crouch or kneel to cleanse themselves. Crouching or kneeling is also viewed as a sign of respect.\\nThe cleansing area should be right before one enters into the inner garden. You must cleanse yourself before entering the inner garden.\\n2-4. Create a wall or gate to separate the outer and inner gardens.\\nA small gate or wall of rocks is usually built to separate the outer garden from the inner garden. The wall represents official entry into the tea garden, a place of relaxation and peace from the outside world. You can purchase a small wooden or metal gate to install, or you can make a small wall out of rocks and boulders.\\nBuild a simple fence out of bamboo. Insert bamboo poles into the ground, and pack dirt or cement around the base of each one to hold it in place. Once you have your posts in place, attach bamboo support poles between each post.\\n2-5. Plant the inner garden.\\nTea gardens are meant to be simple and serene, so only use natural plants and materials to build the inner garden.The plants used in inner gardens should be ferns, mosses and shrubs. It's acceptable to place one flowering plant inside the actual teahouse.\\n2-6. Build a tea house for your tea ceremonies.\\nThe inner garden's focal point should be a tea house. Your tea house doesn't have to be a completely built house; it can simply be a wooden structure with beams and some type of roof. Use natural woods to build your tea house so that it flows with nature. Your tea house should include a sitting area with a low table for you and your visitors to enjoy your tea.\\nIf you'd like, you can place pillows or cushions on the ground of your teahouse for you and your guests to sit on.\\n3. Choosing to Build a Strolling Garden\\n3-1. Create a strolling garden if you want a larger, more luxurious garden.\\nDuring the Edo Period, the wealthier class of Japan enjoyed a great deal of extravagance and recreation. Strolling gardens with ponds, islands and hills were built on large pieces of land. These gardens usually included a circular trail that allowed people to enjoy the garden from many different perspectives. Many strolling gardens served as extravagant entrances (or the outer gardens) of tea gardens.\\n3-2. Build your strolling garden in the proper area.\\nStrolling gardens require more space than other types of Japanese gardens, making them the least practical type of Japanese garden for most people. However, if you happen to have a huge backyard or a giant piece of land, a strolling garden may be perfect for you. These gardens usually feature a large variety of features – from ponds and rivers to pathways and hills (sometimes artificial hills) – which also makes them one of the most expensive types of Japanese gardens to build.\\n3-3. Plan your garden.\\nMany strolling gardens rely on artificial landscape to make them extremely beautiful and surreal. You should create a pond or river if your property doesn't already have one, as these gardens always have some type of water element. You should also add some hills to your strolling garden if your property is naturally flat. You'll also need to plan a strolling path for your garden. This will help your garden to look like a traditional Japanese strolling garden.\\nPlan your garden on paper before actually creating it. This will help you map out all of the work that needs to be done, and help you determine whether or not you need to hire contractors to help you.\\n3-4. Create your landscape.\\nIf you plan on adding artificial landscapes, such as small bodies of water or hills, you may need to hire professionals to help you. Artificial hills are usually created by adding mounds of packed dirt to your land, and planting grass on top of these mounds. The goal is to make these new hills a natural part of your existing landscape. Creating a river or pond may be a bit more challenging, as you'll need to dig out chunks of land and transform them into bodies of water. These are big landscaping tasks, and getting professional help is recommended.\\n3-5. Make your strolling path.\\nAfter you've built your hills and water elements, you should build a strolling path into your garden. You can use gravel, pebbles, wooden planks, or large stepping stones to make your walkway. Your path should flow nicely through your garden.\\n3-6. Add decorative elements to your strolling garden.\\nWhereas the other types of Japanese gardens are usually more natural, strolling gardens can be a bit more extravagant. Decorate your garden with benches, large statues or sculptures, incorporate bright, flowering plants, line your pathway with beautiful lanterns, add a few fountains throughout your garden, etc.\\n4. Building a Courtyard Garden\\n4-1. Choose a courtyard garden if you're looking to build a small a garden.\\nCourtyard gardens typically incorporate simple non-flowering plants, a dry stream (made with sand or gravel), and small water elements (such as a fountain). They are usually easy to make and easy to maintain. These gardens are typically meant to be viewed, but not entered.\\n4-2. Pick the right location for your garden.\\nDespite their name, you don't need an actual courtyard to create a courtyard garden. Traditional courtyard gardens are designed for smaller, confined spaces, which makes areas like rooftops, porches, or terraces perfect for them. It's also recommended to incorporate plants that don't require much sunlight, as this will give you more options when choosing a location for your garden.\\n4-3. Create a border for your garden.\\nUsing a combination of rocks and plants, create a border for your courtyard garden. This will help you and your visitors distinguish where your garden begins. Once you've created the border for your garden, you can begin decorating it with sand, additional rocks and plants, as well as a simple tree or fountain.\\n4-4. Add the proper elements to your garden.\\nIt's easiest to use potted plants in courtyard gardens, as this will allow you to build your garden almost anywhere. Choose plants that require little to no sunlight, such as ferns and palm plants. Pour sand or gravel onto the ground of your courtyard garden, and create a dry stream by raking a water design into it. Incorporate a few rocks, a small tree, or a fountain for additional scenery.\\nTips\\nHire a contractor come out and help you plan out your garden.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Japanese gardens are renowned for their quiet beauty and pristine plant growth. Adding a Japanese garden to your home is a great way to build your own little getaway, all while putting your green thumb to use. There are several types of Japanese gardens, so do a bit of research to figure out which type of garden you'd like to build.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Zen Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a Zen garden if you want a completely dry garden.\", \"描述\": \"Zen gardens, also known as Japanese rock gardens, are designed to be dry. They are typically comprised of different sized boulders, gravel, sand, and rocks. Boulders and rocks represent islands and the sand and gravel are meant to represent water, which is why wave designs are typically drawn in the sand and gravel.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a flat piece of land to build your garden on.\", \"描述\": \"Zen gardens are typically made on flat and leveled landscapes, so it's important that you choose the flattest possible piece of land. You may need to level the land yourself with a bit of digging and dirt packing. These gardens are typically made in the shape of a square.\\nZen gardens can vary in size, so how big you make it is completely up to you. Zen gardens are often used for meditation, so make the garden big enough for you to meditate in.\\nSince Zen gardens are dry gardens, you should remove existing grass or flowers from the area in which you are building your garden. Natural moss, small trees, and shrubbery are the types of plants typically found in Zen gardens. If you have these types of plants, do not remove them.\\nIf you need to level your own land, use a carpenter's level to make sure that you've made your ground as even as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add rocks, boulders, and sand to your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Start by creating a border around your Zen garden with rocks and boulders. This will help keep your gravel and sand inside of your designated Zen garden, and stop it from spreading all over the rest of your yard. After you've lined your Zen garden with rocks, spread a layer of gravel or sand over the bottom of your garden (it should be 3-4 inches thick). Then, place different sized rocks and boulders throughout the rest of the garden.\\nRocks are typically placed in small groupings throughout the garden, as this creates a simple and polished look. Your rocks and boulders should vary in size from very large to small.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Incorporate the proper plants into your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Zen gardens are simplistic and typically include limited plant life – mostly moss, small trees, and shrubbery. Besides this limited addition of plants, the main focus of Zen gardens is the raked gravel symbolizing streaming water. Don't add too many elements, as Zen gardens are meant to be simple and relaxing.\\nIf you do not have natural trees or moss in the area of your Zen garden, add a few small potted plants to the garden. Small shrubs and bamboo plants make for good additions to your Zen garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Rake water designs into your Zen garden.\", \"描述\": \"It is important to rake your gravel or sand so that it replicates flowing water, as this is a key element to a proper Zen garden. You can use a regular garden rake to pull designs through your sand or gravel. It's best to use a rake that has larger, wider set teeth, as this will create a better, more legible design.\\nUse a broom, or a broom handle, to perfect the grooves created by the rake. Once the grooves are created with a rake, use a broom or broom handle to press down into the grooves. This will make the grooves deeper and easier to see. The bristle end of a broom is typically thicker and makes wider, softer indentations than the handle of a broom would. The handle end of a broom is normally thinner and is easier to use when making smaller, tighter designs.\\nThe water designs are meant to be calming and relaxing, so creating them should also be a relaxed process. Slowly and carefully pull your rake through the gravel to create beautiful designs.\\nYou can create circular designs, straight designs, or flowing designs. This is your garden, so create whichever designs are the most beautiful to you.\\nRaking should be a part of the regular maintenance of the garden, done as a form of meditation rather than a chore. Touch up your water designs every week.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating a Tea Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a tea garden.\", \"描述\": \"Traditional Japanese tea gardens are divided into two areas that are separated by a simple barrier, such as a small gate or a wall of rocks. This barrier should also have an opening to walk through. The outer garden is meant to be a pathway into the tea ceremony, and the inner garden is where the tea ceremony takes place. Often, the inner garden contains a tea house. The purpose of a tea garden is to get into a peaceful state of mind before beginning a tea ceremony.\\nThe inner garden is the main focus of a tea garden, as this is where the tea ceremony takes place. The outer garden can be as large or small as you'd like it to be. It should, at the very least, be a walkway into the tea house.\\nThese gardens can be on flat or hilly pieces of land. However, you should create a flat surface to build your tea house on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create the outer garden.\", \"描述\": \"The outer garden of a tea garden serves as a pathway to the inner garden. Outer gardens generally include a pathway to the inner garden, a few simple shrubs and plants, and some type of water element (such as a waterfall, small pond, or fountain). Traditionally, tea gardens were kept deliberately natural and woodsy to provide a calming transition between the outer world to a tranquil tea ceremony.\\nThe pathways are typically made out of flat stones or wooden planks. This pathway can be as long or short as your space allows, and can be set up in a straight or winding path.\\nPlants in the outer garden should be informal. Do not include bright plants or flowers. Instead, stick to mosses, shrubs, and trees that would be found in nature.\\nInclude a few lanterns to light the pathway for nighttime tea ceremonies.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include a cleansing area between the two gardens.\", \"描述\": \"Ritual cleansing is important in a tea garden, as it purifies a person before they begin their tea ceremony. A stone water basin (a tsukubai) should be placed in an area between the outer and inner gardens where visitors can wash their mouth and hands. These basins are typically built low to the ground so that visitors must crouch or kneel to cleanse themselves. Crouching or kneeling is also viewed as a sign of respect.\\nThe cleansing area should be right before one enters into the inner garden. You must cleanse yourself before entering the inner garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create a wall or gate to separate the outer and inner gardens.\", \"描述\": \"A small gate or wall of rocks is usually built to separate the outer garden from the inner garden. The wall represents official entry into the tea garden, a place of relaxation and peace from the outside world. You can purchase a small wooden or metal gate to install, or you can make a small wall out of rocks and boulders.\\nBuild a simple fence out of bamboo. Insert bamboo poles into the ground, and pack dirt or cement around the base of each one to hold it in place. Once you have your posts in place, attach bamboo support poles between each post.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Plant the inner garden.\", \"描述\": \"Tea gardens are meant to be simple and serene, so only use natural plants and materials to build the inner garden.The plants used in inner gardens should be ferns, mosses and shrubs. It's acceptable to place one flowering plant inside the actual teahouse.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build a tea house for your tea ceremonies.\", \"描述\": \"The inner garden's focal point should be a tea house. Your tea house doesn't have to be a completely built house; it can simply be a wooden structure with beams and some type of roof. Use natural woods to build your tea house so that it flows with nature. Your tea house should include a sitting area with a low table for you and your visitors to enjoy your tea.\\nIf you'd like, you can place pillows or cushions on the ground of your teahouse for you and your guests to sit on.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choosing to Build a Strolling Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a strolling garden if you want a larger, more luxurious garden.\", \"描述\": \"During the Edo Period, the wealthier class of Japan enjoyed a great deal of extravagance and recreation. Strolling gardens with ponds, islands and hills were built on large pieces of land. These gardens usually included a circular trail that allowed people to enjoy the garden from many different perspectives. Many strolling gardens served as extravagant entrances (or the outer gardens) of tea gardens.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Build your strolling garden in the proper area.\", \"描述\": \"Strolling gardens require more space than other types of Japanese gardens, making them the least practical type of Japanese garden for most people. However, if you happen to have a huge backyard or a giant piece of land, a strolling garden may be perfect for you. These gardens usually feature a large variety of features – from ponds and rivers to pathways and hills (sometimes artificial hills) – which also makes them one of the most expensive types of Japanese gardens to build.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Plan your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Many strolling gardens rely on artificial landscape to make them extremely beautiful and surreal. You should create a pond or river if your property doesn't already have one, as these gardens always have some type of water element. You should also add some hills to your strolling garden if your property is naturally flat. You'll also need to plan a strolling path for your garden. This will help your garden to look like a traditional Japanese strolling garden.\\nPlan your garden on paper before actually creating it. This will help you map out all of the work that needs to be done, and help you determine whether or not you need to hire contractors to help you.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Create your landscape.\", \"描述\": \"If you plan on adding artificial landscapes, such as small bodies of water or hills, you may need to hire professionals to help you. Artificial hills are usually created by adding mounds of packed dirt to your land, and planting grass on top of these mounds. The goal is to make these new hills a natural part of your existing landscape. Creating a river or pond may be a bit more challenging, as you'll need to dig out chunks of land and transform them into bodies of water. These are big landscaping tasks, and getting professional help is recommended.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make your strolling path.\", \"描述\": \"After you've built your hills and water elements, you should build a strolling path into your garden. You can use gravel, pebbles, wooden planks, or large stepping stones to make your walkway. Your path should flow nicely through your garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add decorative elements to your strolling garden.\", \"描述\": \"Whereas the other types of Japanese gardens are usually more natural, strolling gardens can be a bit more extravagant. Decorate your garden with benches, large statues or sculptures, incorporate bright, flowering plants, line your pathway with beautiful lanterns, add a few fountains throughout your garden, etc.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building a Courtyard Garden\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a courtyard garden if you're looking to build a small a garden.\", \"描述\": \"Courtyard gardens typically incorporate simple non-flowering plants, a dry stream (made with sand or gravel), and small water elements (such as a fountain). They are usually easy to make and easy to maintain. These gardens are typically meant to be viewed, but not entered.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Pick the right location for your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Despite their name, you don't need an actual courtyard to create a courtyard garden. Traditional courtyard gardens are designed for smaller, confined spaces, which makes areas like rooftops, porches, or terraces perfect for them. It's also recommended to incorporate plants that don't require much sunlight, as this will give you more options when choosing a location for your garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create a border for your garden.\", \"描述\": \"Using a combination of rocks and plants, create a border for your courtyard garden. This will help you and your visitors distinguish where your garden begins. Once you've created the border for your garden, you can begin decorating it with sand, additional rocks and plants, as well as a simple tree or fountain.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the proper elements to your garden.\", \"描述\": \"It's easiest to use potted plants in courtyard gardens, as this will allow you to build your garden almost anywhere. Choose plants that require little to no sunlight, such as ferns and palm plants. Pour sand or gravel onto the ground of your courtyard garden, and create a dry stream by raking a water design into it. Incorporate a few rocks, a small tree, or a fountain for additional scenery.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Hire a contractor come out and help you plan out your garden.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,397
How to Build a Kitchen Table
1. Building the Tabletop 1-1. Cut the lumber for the tabletop. You may use construction-grade lumber if you don't mind a rustic look, but choose boards with as little warp as possible. Measure and mark the cut lines first, then cut the lumber with a miter saw. Cut five 2x10" boards to 69 inches (180 cm) in length. If the miter saw is too small to make one cut, cut halfway through, then rotate the board and cut again. Refer to the end of this article for a list of all lumber and supplies required. If you'd like to change the measurements of your table, draw a diagram first so you know how much lumber to buy. 1-2. Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface. Find the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap. 1-3. Mark the pocket hole locations. For each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8–10 inches (20.3–25.4 cm) apart. This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together. In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends. 1-4. Adjust the Kreg Jig depth. Insert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench. The step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide. 1-5. Adjust the jig placement. Manually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark, then tighten the screw. 1-6. Drill the pocket holes. Stand the edge of a board into the Kreg Jig, centered on one of your marks. Drill through the hole on top of the Kreg Jig to make a pocket hole in the board. Repeat with each mark on each board. It can help to rest the board on a 3/4" spacer, to keep it level. Don't forget the marks on the end of each board. Stand the board vertically to drill these. 1-7. Lay out the boards. Sweep the floor of sawdust and lay out your boards again, in the same order. Confirm that all ends are flush before you continue. 1-8. Attach boards with 2.5 inch (6.3 cm) Kreg screws. Place the screw into one of the pocket holes you just drilled, and drill it in to fasten the boards together. Keep the boards as level and flush as possible while you do this, and check afterward to make sure they haven't shifted. Repeat for each pocket hole between two boards. Clamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects. 1-9. Sand the surface. Run your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop. 1-10. Cut the breadboard ends. Measure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. This should be about 46¼". 1-11. Attach the breadboard ends. Line these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2.5" Kreg screws through the remaining pocket holes to attach these two boards. Your tabletop is now complete. 2. Assembling the Table Base 2-1. Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends. Cut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. You'll need the following cuts of lumber to form the two ends of the table: Two 4x4s to 43" length (end tops) Four 4x4s to 25⅜" length, with ends cut parallel at a 10º angle (table legs) Two 4x4 at 36¼" length, with ends cut parallel at 10º angle (end braces) 2-2. Sand off rough edges. As before, run an orbital sander over the cut wood to smooth out the surface. 2-3. Lay out the end. On a flat surface, lay out a table end as follows: Put down one of the 43" "end top." Position two 25⅜" legs against the first board, leaning inward in the style of a picnic table. Place a 36¼" board between the two legs as a horizontal base. Adjust the position of this piece and the legs until they are flush against each other, and centered under the top board. 2-4. Put together the table ends. Drill in three 6" torque screws at each point where two boards touch (twelve screws in all). Put together the second table end the same way you did the first. An impact wrench makes it easier to drill in the torque screws and reduces the chance of stripping the bit. 2-5. Cut lumber for the long braces. Position the end pieces upside down on either end of the tabletop. Measure the distance between them (it should be about 73"), then cut the following lumber to that dimension: Two 4x4s for braces Two 2x4s for the apron As before, sand the cut surfaces smooth before you continue. 2-6. Attach one brace to the end pieces. One of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends. Keep the table ends upside down so you can rest this brace on the floor. Drill each end into the brace with two or three 6" torque screws. 2-7. Attach the 2x4 apron with the Kreg Jig. Drill two pocket holes at each end of each 2x4, using the same 1.5" setting as before. Lay these parallel with the 4x4 brace you just drilled, running between the two ends right where the table legs connect to the rest of the table. Drill each pocket hole with 2.5" Kreg screws, as before. For greater strength, stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat. 2-8. Attach the final 4x4 brace. You'll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4x4, between the two end braces. Either have a friend hold it in place or raise it with two jack clamps. Use two or three 6" torque screws for each end. 2-9. Attach the base to the tabletop. Lay the tabletop flat on the floor and place the base on top of it. Drill torque screws through the bottom of the boards and into the tabletop. Place them as follows: Two 4.5" torque screws near each end of the end top, outside of the legs A 4.5" screw about every 5-6" on the end top, between the legs More 4.5" screws every 5-6" along the central lengthwise 4x4 brace. Switch to 2.5" torque screws and drill one every 5-6" through the 2x4 apron boards. 2-10. Cut and attach diagonal braces. Flip the table on its side. Measure the length of a line running at a 45º angle from the end of the central 4x4 inward to the lower 4x4 brace. (This should be about 26⅛".) Cut two 4x4s to this length, cutting the ends to a 45º angle so they are parallel with each other. Sand them, then drill them in with three 6" torque screws on each end. 3. Finishing the Table 3-1. Level the top with a hand planer. The tabletop surface may be rough, especially if you used construction-grade lumber. Wear down the worst offending areas with a hand planer. 3-2. Sand the table. Start with obvious dents using a 40-60 grit sanding pad. Next, sand the entire table using progressively higher grit, ending with 120 or 220 grit. Be sure to sand the sides of the tabletop as well, especially where the breadboard ends attach to the main surface. Optionally, smooth out the corners and top edge of the table with the sander. 3-3. Distress the table (optional) If you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you'd like to inflict. 3-4. Apply finish You may refer to our detailed guide, or follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice. Wipe on the finish with a clean rag. Wait a few hours for the finish to dry, or as directed on the finish instructions. You can make your own rustic finish by letting steel wool dissolve in white vinegar. This takes about two or three days in an open Mason jar. Filter the liquid through a paper towel, then wait a few additional hours until it turns an amber color. 3-5. Seal the table A polyurethane sealer will protect from spills and enhance the wood's color. Brush on two or three coats of polyurethane, letting the wood dry for 12+ hours between each coat. For best results, sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with a damp rag. Follow the safety instructions on the product. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respiratory mask. Use a well-made brush in good condition to avoid losing bristles in the polyurethane. Tips Shake the table to check for motion. If the boards wobble apart from each other, drive in more screws or add brackets for additional strength.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:43", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Tabletop\\n1-1. Cut the lumber for the tabletop.\\nYou may use construction-grade lumber if you don't mind a rustic look, but choose boards with as little warp as possible. Measure and mark the cut lines first, then cut the lumber with a miter saw. Cut five 2x10\\\" boards to 69 inches (180 cm) in length.\\nIf the miter saw is too small to make one cut, cut halfway through, then rotate the board and cut again.\\nRefer to the end of this article for a list of all lumber and supplies required. If you'd like to change the measurements of your table, draw a diagram first so you know how much lumber to buy.\\n1-2. Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface.\\nFind the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69\\\" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap.\\n1-3. Mark the pocket hole locations.\\nFor each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8–10 inches (20.3–25.4 cm) apart. This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together. In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends.\\n1-4. Adjust the Kreg Jig depth.\\nInsert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench. \\nThe step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide.\\n1-5. Adjust the jig placement.\\nManually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark, then tighten the screw.\\n1-6. Drill the pocket holes.\\nStand the edge of a board into the Kreg Jig, centered on one of your marks. Drill through the hole on top of the Kreg Jig to make a pocket hole in the board. Repeat with each mark on each board.\\nIt can help to rest the board on a 3/4\\\" spacer, to keep it level.\\nDon't forget the marks on the end of each board. Stand the board vertically to drill these.\\n1-7. Lay out the boards.\\nSweep the floor of sawdust and lay out your boards again, in the same order. Confirm that all ends are flush before you continue.\\n1-8. Attach boards with 2.5 inch (6.3 cm) Kreg screws.\\nPlace the screw into one of the pocket holes you just drilled, and drill it in to fasten the boards together. Keep the boards as level and flush as possible while you do this, and check afterward to make sure they haven't shifted. Repeat for each pocket hole between two boards.\\nClamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects.\\n1-9. Sand the surface.\\nRun your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop.\\n1-10. Cut the breadboard ends.\\nMeasure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. This should be about 46¼\\\".\\n1-11. Attach the breadboard ends.\\nLine these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2.5\\\" Kreg screws through the remaining pocket holes to attach these two boards. Your tabletop is now complete.\\n2. Assembling the Table Base\\n2-1. Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends.\\nCut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. You'll need the following cuts of lumber to form the two ends of the table:\\nTwo 4x4s to 43\\\" length (end tops)\\nFour 4x4s to 25⅜\\\" length, with ends cut parallel at a 10º angle (table legs)\\nTwo 4x4 at 36¼\\\" length, with ends cut parallel at 10º angle (end braces)\\n2-2. Sand off rough edges.\\nAs before, run an orbital sander over the cut wood to smooth out the surface.\\n2-3. Lay out the end.\\nOn a flat surface, lay out a table end as follows:\\nPut down one of the 43\\\" \\\"end top.\\\"\\nPosition two 25⅜\\\" legs against the first board, leaning inward in the style of a picnic table.\\nPlace a 36¼\\\" board between the two legs as a horizontal base. Adjust the position of this piece and the legs until they are flush against each other, and centered under the top board.\\n2-4. Put together the table ends.\\nDrill in three 6\\\" torque screws at each point where two boards touch (twelve screws in all). Put together the second table end the same way you did the first.\\nAn impact wrench makes it easier to drill in the torque screws and reduces the chance of stripping the bit.\\n2-5. Cut lumber for the long braces.\\nPosition the end pieces upside down on either end of the tabletop. Measure the distance between them (it should be about 73\\\"), then cut the following lumber to that dimension:\\nTwo 4x4s for braces\\nTwo 2x4s for the apron\\nAs before, sand the cut surfaces smooth before you continue.\\n2-6. Attach one brace to the end pieces.\\nOne of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends. Keep the table ends upside down so you can rest this brace on the floor. Drill each end into the brace with two or three 6\\\" torque screws.\\n2-7. Attach the 2x4 apron with the Kreg Jig.\\nDrill two pocket holes at each end of each 2x4, using the same 1.5\\\" setting as before. Lay these parallel with the 4x4 brace you just drilled, running between the two ends right where the table legs connect to the rest of the table. Drill each pocket hole with 2.5\\\" Kreg screws, as before.\\nFor greater strength, stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat.\\n2-8. Attach the final 4x4 brace.\\nYou'll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4x4, between the two end braces. Either have a friend hold it in place or raise it with two jack clamps. Use two or three 6\\\" torque screws for each end.\\n2-9. Attach the base to the tabletop.\\nLay the tabletop flat on the floor and place the base on top of it. Drill torque screws through the bottom of the boards and into the tabletop. Place them as follows:\\nTwo 4.5\\\" torque screws near each end of the end top, outside of the legs\\nA 4.5\\\" screw about every 5-6\\\" on the end top, between the legs\\nMore 4.5\\\" screws every 5-6\\\" along the central lengthwise 4x4 brace.\\nSwitch to 2.5\\\" torque screws and drill one every 5-6\\\" through the 2x4 apron boards.\\n2-10. Cut and attach diagonal braces.\\nFlip the table on its side. Measure the length of a line running at a 45º angle from the end of the central 4x4 inward to the lower 4x4 brace. (This should be about 26⅛\\\".) Cut two 4x4s to this length, cutting the ends to a 45º angle so they are parallel with each other. Sand them, then drill them in with three 6\\\" torque screws on each end.\\n3. Finishing the Table\\n3-1. Level the top with a hand planer.\\nThe tabletop surface may be rough, especially if you used construction-grade lumber. Wear down the worst offending areas with a hand planer.\\n3-2. Sand the table.\\nStart with obvious dents using a 40-60 grit sanding pad. Next, sand the entire table using progressively higher grit, ending with 120 or 220 grit. Be sure to sand the sides of the tabletop as well, especially where the breadboard ends attach to the main surface.\\nOptionally, smooth out the corners and top edge of the table with the sander.\\n3-3. Distress the table (optional)\\nIf you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you'd like to inflict.\\n3-4. Apply finish\\nYou may refer to our detailed guide, or follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice. Wipe on the finish with a clean rag. Wait a few hours for the finish to dry, or as directed on the finish instructions.\\nYou can make your own rustic finish by letting steel wool dissolve in white vinegar. This takes about two or three days in an open Mason jar. Filter the liquid through a paper towel, then wait a few additional hours until it turns an amber color.\\n3-5. Seal the table\\nA polyurethane sealer will protect from spills and enhance the wood's color. Brush on two or three coats of polyurethane, letting the wood dry for 12+ hours between each coat. For best results, sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with a damp rag.\\nFollow the safety instructions on the product. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respiratory mask.\\nUse a well-made brush in good condition to avoid losing bristles in the polyurethane.\\nTips\\nShake the table to check for motion. If the boards wobble apart from each other, drive in more screws or add brackets for additional strength.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Even a beginning woodworker can build a kitchen table if they have a small selection of carpentry tools. These instructions describe a table with surface dimensions about 69\\\" x 46\\\" (175cm x 120cm). You may adjust the plan to a different size by cutting the boards to a different length and by using fewer or narrower boards for the tabletop.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Tabletop\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the lumber for the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"You may use construction-grade lumber if you don't mind a rustic look, but choose boards with as little warp as possible. Measure and mark the cut lines first, then cut the lumber with a miter saw. Cut five 2x10\\\" boards to 69 inches (180 cm) in length.\\nIf the miter saw is too small to make one cut, cut halfway through, then rotate the board and cut again.\\nRefer to the end of this article for a list of all lumber and supplies required. If you'd like to change the measurements of your table, draw a diagram first so you know how much lumber to buy.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface.\", \"描述\": \"Find the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69\\\" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the pocket hole locations.\", \"描述\": \"For each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8–10 inches (20.3–25.4 cm) apart. This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together. In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Adjust the Kreg Jig depth.\", \"描述\": \"Insert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench. \\nThe step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Adjust the jig placement.\", \"描述\": \"Manually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) mark, then tighten the screw.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Drill the pocket holes.\", \"描述\": \"Stand the edge of a board into the Kreg Jig, centered on one of your marks. Drill through the hole on top of the Kreg Jig to make a pocket hole in the board. Repeat with each mark on each board.\\nIt can help to rest the board on a 3/4\\\" spacer, to keep it level.\\nDon't forget the marks on the end of each board. Stand the board vertically to drill these.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Lay out the boards.\", \"描述\": \"Sweep the floor of sawdust and lay out your boards again, in the same order. Confirm that all ends are flush before you continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach boards with 2.5 inch (6.3 cm) Kreg screws.\", \"描述\": \"Place the screw into one of the pocket holes you just drilled, and drill it in to fasten the boards together. Keep the boards as level and flush as possible while you do this, and check afterward to make sure they haven't shifted. Repeat for each pocket hole between two boards.\\nClamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Sand the surface.\", \"描述\": \"Run your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut the breadboard ends.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. This should be about 46¼\\\".\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Attach the breadboard ends.\", \"描述\": \"Line these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2.5\\\" Kreg screws through the remaining pocket holes to attach these two boards. Your tabletop is now complete.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Table Base\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends.\", \"描述\": \"Cut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. You'll need the following cuts of lumber to form the two ends of the table:\\nTwo 4x4s to 43\\\" length (end tops)\\nFour 4x4s to 25⅜\\\" length, with ends cut parallel at a 10º angle (table legs)\\nTwo 4x4 at 36¼\\\" length, with ends cut parallel at 10º angle (end braces)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand off rough edges.\", \"描述\": \"As before, run an orbital sander over the cut wood to smooth out the surface.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Lay out the end.\", \"描述\": \"On a flat surface, lay out a table end as follows:\\nPut down one of the 43\\\" \\\"end top.\\\"\\nPosition two 25⅜\\\" legs against the first board, leaning inward in the style of a picnic table.\\nPlace a 36¼\\\" board between the two legs as a horizontal base. Adjust the position of this piece and the legs until they are flush against each other, and centered under the top board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put together the table ends.\", \"描述\": \"Drill in three 6\\\" torque screws at each point where two boards touch (twelve screws in all). Put together the second table end the same way you did the first.\\nAn impact wrench makes it easier to drill in the torque screws and reduces the chance of stripping the bit.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cut lumber for the long braces.\", \"描述\": \"Position the end pieces upside down on either end of the tabletop. Measure the distance between them (it should be about 73\\\"), then cut the following lumber to that dimension:\\nTwo 4x4s for braces\\nTwo 2x4s for the apron\\nAs before, sand the cut surfaces smooth before you continue.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach one brace to the end pieces.\", \"描述\": \"One of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends. Keep the table ends upside down so you can rest this brace on the floor. Drill each end into the brace with two or three 6\\\" torque screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the 2x4 apron with the Kreg Jig.\", \"描述\": \"Drill two pocket holes at each end of each 2x4, using the same 1.5\\\" setting as before. Lay these parallel with the 4x4 brace you just drilled, running between the two ends right where the table legs connect to the rest of the table. Drill each pocket hole with 2.5\\\" Kreg screws, as before.\\nFor greater strength, stand the 2x4s vertically rather than laying them flat.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the final 4x4 brace.\", \"描述\": \"You'll have to attach this one in midair, running parallel with the other 4x4, between the two end braces. Either have a friend hold it in place or raise it with two jack clamps. Use two or three 6\\\" torque screws for each end.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Attach the base to the tabletop.\", \"描述\": \"Lay the tabletop flat on the floor and place the base on top of it. Drill torque screws through the bottom of the boards and into the tabletop. Place them as follows:\\nTwo 4.5\\\" torque screws near each end of the end top, outside of the legs\\nA 4.5\\\" screw about every 5-6\\\" on the end top, between the legs\\nMore 4.5\\\" screws every 5-6\\\" along the central lengthwise 4x4 brace.\\nSwitch to 2.5\\\" torque screws and drill one every 5-6\\\" through the 2x4 apron boards.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Cut and attach diagonal braces.\", \"描述\": \"Flip the table on its side. Measure the length of a line running at a 45º angle from the end of the central 4x4 inward to the lower 4x4 brace. (This should be about 26⅛\\\".) Cut two 4x4s to this length, cutting the ends to a 45º angle so they are parallel with each other. Sand them, then drill them in with three 6\\\" torque screws on each end.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Table\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Level the top with a hand planer.\", \"描述\": \"The tabletop surface may be rough, especially if you used construction-grade lumber. Wear down the worst offending areas with a hand planer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand the table.\", \"描述\": \"Start with obvious dents using a 40-60 grit sanding pad. Next, sand the entire table using progressively higher grit, ending with 120 or 220 grit. Be sure to sand the sides of the tabletop as well, especially where the breadboard ends attach to the main surface.\\nOptionally, smooth out the corners and top edge of the table with the sander.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Distress the table (optional)\", \"描述\": \"If you prefer a well-worn look, you can mark the table with nail dents, saw marks, or any other surface damage you'd like to inflict.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Apply finish\", \"描述\": \"You may refer to our detailed guide, or follow the instructions on the wood finish of your choice. Wipe on the finish with a clean rag. Wait a few hours for the finish to dry, or as directed on the finish instructions.\\nYou can make your own rustic finish by letting steel wool dissolve in white vinegar. This takes about two or three days in an open Mason jar. Filter the liquid through a paper towel, then wait a few additional hours until it turns an amber color.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Seal the table\", \"描述\": \"A polyurethane sealer will protect from spills and enhance the wood's color. Brush on two or three coats of polyurethane, letting the wood dry for 12+ hours between each coat. For best results, sand the table before each coat and wipe it off with a damp rag.\\nFollow the safety instructions on the product. Work in a well-ventilated area or wear a respiratory mask.\\nUse a well-made brush in good condition to avoid losing bristles in the polyurethane.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Shake the table to check for motion. If the boards wobble apart from each other, drive in more screws or add brackets for additional strength.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,398
How to Build a Koi Fish Pond
1. Planning out the Pond 1-1. Choose a pond that is a minimum of 12 feet (3.7 m) long by 10 feet (3.0 m) wide. This is an ideal and popular size for a backyard, hobby koi fish pond. A pond of this size generally holds 10 mature fish, giving them enough space to thrive and for the pond to not look overcrowded. Keep the width of the pond 13 feet (4.0 m) or under, as otherwise, it will be difficult to catch the fish using a net if you need to. 1-2. Make your koi pond 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. A good size for a hobby koi pond is 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. Some ponds for koi that are raised for competitions reach a depth of 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m), however, for beginners and hobby koi enthusiasts, having a deeper pond isn't necessary. It's important that the pond is a minimum of 3 feet (0.91 m) as this makes it less likely to fully freeze over during winter. Once you have determined the size and depth of the pond, you will be able to calculate the estimated volume. To calculate the volume of the pond in cubic feet, multiply the depth by the width by the length. To calculate the volume of the pond in gallons, multiply the volume in cubic feet by 7.5. You will need these volume measurements for the upkeep of the water quality in the pond. A lot of birds and turtles like fish. So you should be careful. To prevent turtles and birds from wiping out all the beautiful fish, make sure the pond is deep enough so the fish can hide and make hiding spots at the bottom. You can put masonry blocks or something with holes where they can hide. 1-3. Choose an accessible location for your koi pond. Walk around your garden and pick where you would like the pond to go. Make sure that the site is very accessible so that you can easily bring in all of the materials for the pond and have enough space to work. Some people like to have a koi fish pond located close to their home and viewable from a window, while others prefer to have the pond set back into the garden so that you can take a walk to reach it. 1-4. Clear the site where you are planning to put the pond. Once you have decided on the size, depth, and location of the pond, get the area where your working area ready. Move any vegetation or furniture out of the way. Pull up any pavers that may be covering the ground. Make sure that there is enough room around the site so that you can work there easily. 1-5. Map out the shape of the pond on the ground. Mark out the dimensions of your pond directly onto the ground. Choose a shape for the pond to be based on the dimensions that you have decided. Use either rope, a garden hose, or spray paint to make sure that you are happy with the size and location of the pond. Koi ponds are often rectangles, L-shaped polygons, or irregular, round shapes. 2. Constructing the Pond 2-1. Dig the hole for the pond. Use your measurements and plan to start digging the hole for your koi fish pond. Use a sturdy shovel and get a friend to help you if possible, as this will make the process go a lot faster. Dig the sides of the pond so that they slope gently downwards towards the center if possible. The widest part of the pond is at the top. 2-2. Line the pond with a tough plastic or rubber liner. Order a one-piece pond liner from a home improvement or landscaping supplier. Install the liner as per the manufacturer's directions. Have several people help you to roll it out over the pond. Make sure that it overlaps the edges of the pond by at least 3 feet (0.91 m) so that it can be adequately secured in place. Remove any sharp rocks or stones that you see in the hole before you lay the liner to prevent the liner from being damaged. A liner in one piece will prevent the pond from leaking. 2-3. Place rocks over the liner around the edge of the pond. Use large stones and rocks to completely cover the liner that is at surface level, leaving only the hole for the pond exposed. Stack and overlap the rocks using whatever design that you prefer. Make sure that at least 1 foot (0.30 m) of the liner is exposed beyond the edge of the rocks, as you will need this to prevent rainwater from getting into the pond. 2-4. Dig a 3 in (7.6 cm) high ridge around the edge of the rocks. Once you are happy with the final layout of the rocks and stones, dig a ridge around the edge. Use a spade to shift the dirt into a ridge formation up against the rocks. Make sure that the liner reaches onto the ridge. The end result will look like a small ridge running along the entire outline of the pond. The ridge will be just beyond the rocks along the edge. This prevents rainwater, soil, lawn chemicals, and grass clippings from reaching the pond water. 3. Adding and Adjusting the Water 3-1. Fill the pond with water. Use a garden hose to fill up the koi fish pond. If the water isn't fresh or spring water, use a dechlorinator, a carbon charcoal filter, or a water conditioner to remove the chlorine. You can purchase these chlorine treatments from pond or fish supply stores. Always treat chlorinated water before adding it to the pond if there are fish already in it. Contact your water supplier if you are unsure about the water quality. Chlorinated water is toxic for fish such as koi. 3-2. Ensure the pH of the water remains between 7 and 8.6. Use a water testing kit to test if the pH and dissolved nutrients are at the right levels for the fish. Adjust the parameters of the water if the testing kit shows that it is necessary. This helps the koi to stay happy and healthy. It is a common problem to have dissolved nutrient levels that are too high. Avoid overfeeding the koi and overstocking the pond, and change the water gradually if necessary. If you need to change the water in the pond, do it in amounts of 10% to 20% of the total volume. Otherwise, the fish may go into shock. 3-3. Keep the temperature of the pond around 65 °F (18 °C). Measure the temperature of the pond regularly with a thermometer. Use a pond heater as well as an aerator if necessary. If you find that the pond is getting too warm, very gradually add cold water to slowly reduce the temperature in the pond. Koi can survive in water that is 34–90 °F (1–32 °C), but they do best at 65 °F (18 °C). Never change the water temperature of the pond all at once, as this can cause the koi to go into shock which can be deadly. 4. Installing Equipment and Adding Koi 4-1. Install a filtration system into the koi fish pond. Purchase a filtration system from a pond equipment supplier and follow the installation directions closely. All pond filtration systems involve a bottom drain, a settling chamber, mechanical filtration, and biological processing. This keeps the pond clean and the water quality high so that the koi stay healthy. Set up the filtration system box right next to the koi pond. Dig it into the ground slightly. Install the individual parts in the pond as per the installation directions. The settling chamber makes it easy for you to remove debris from the pond to keep it clean. An ideal settling chamber size for koi fish ponds is 40 in (1.0 m) deep and 40 in (1.0 m) in diameter. The mechanical filtration part of the system will catch debris as it floats through the water. Biological filtration is the addition of beneficial bacteria into the pond. This reduces the levels of ammonia and nitrite in the water which are toxic for koi. 4-2. Place an aerator in the pond. A pond aerator will keep the pond water moving at all times. This keeps the water stirring, oxygenates the pond, and promotes gas exchange. It also prevents the pond water from freezing during colder months. A pond aerator is an ideal and economical substitute for a pond heater. The size of the pond aerator that you need depends on the size of your koi pond. Know the volume, shape, and depth of your koi pond before you purchase an aerator and choose one that is designed for the size of your koi pond. 4-3. Turn on the filtration system and aerator. Once your pond is full of water, start preparing the water for the koi by getting the filtration system and aerator up and running. Always do this before adding the koi to the pond. 4-4. Put the koi into the pond once it is set up. Keep the koi in the water and in the plastic bag that they were purchased in. Float the plastic bag in your koi pond for 30 minutes so that they can adjust to the temperature change. Then add a bit of pond water into the plastic bag, tie it up, and let it float for an additional 30 minutes to help the koi adjust to the pond water. After the koi have been given time to adjust, open the plastic bag again and release them into their new pond. Don't let the plastic bag float continuously in direct sunlight, as this could cause the koi to overheat. Place a towel over the bag if there isn't a shady spot. 4-5. Care for the koi Feed the koi specialty pellets regularly and treat any health problems that arise. Maintain the water quality in the pond and keep it clean, so that the koi stay happy and healthy! Tips With the right care, koi usually live 30-40 years.[22] X Research source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning out the Pond\\n1-1. Choose a pond that is a minimum of 12 feet (3.7 m) long by 10 feet (3.0 m) wide.\\nThis is an ideal and popular size for a backyard, hobby koi fish pond. A pond of this size generally holds 10 mature fish, giving them enough space to thrive and for the pond to not look overcrowded.\\nKeep the width of the pond 13 feet (4.0 m) or under, as otherwise, it will be difficult to catch the fish using a net if you need to.\\n1-2. Make your koi pond 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep.\\nA good size for a hobby koi pond is 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. Some ponds for koi that are raised for competitions reach a depth of 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m), however, for beginners and hobby koi enthusiasts, having a deeper pond isn't necessary.\\nIt's important that the pond is a minimum of 3 feet (0.91 m) as this makes it less likely to fully freeze over during winter.\\nOnce you have determined the size and depth of the pond, you will be able to calculate the estimated volume. To calculate the volume of the pond in cubic feet, multiply the depth by the width by the length. To calculate the volume of the pond in gallons, multiply the volume in cubic feet by 7.5. You will need these volume measurements for the upkeep of the water quality in the pond.\\nA lot of birds and turtles like fish. So you should be careful.\\nTo prevent turtles and birds from wiping out all the beautiful fish, make sure the pond is deep enough so the fish can hide and make hiding spots at the bottom.\\nYou can put masonry blocks or something with holes where they can hide.\\n1-3. Choose an accessible location for your koi pond.\\nWalk around your garden and pick where you would like the pond to go. Make sure that the site is very accessible so that you can easily bring in all of the materials for the pond and have enough space to work.\\nSome people like to have a koi fish pond located close to their home and viewable from a window, while others prefer to have the pond set back into the garden so that you can take a walk to reach it.\\n1-4. Clear the site where you are planning to put the pond.\\nOnce you have decided on the size, depth, and location of the pond, get the area where your working area ready. Move any vegetation or furniture out of the way. Pull up any pavers that may be covering the ground. Make sure that there is enough room around the site so that you can work there easily.\\n1-5. Map out the shape of the pond on the ground.\\nMark out the dimensions of your pond directly onto the ground. Choose a shape for the pond to be based on the dimensions that you have decided. Use either rope, a garden hose, or spray paint to make sure that you are happy with the size and location of the pond.\\nKoi ponds are often rectangles, L-shaped polygons, or irregular, round shapes.\\n2. Constructing the Pond\\n2-1. Dig the hole for the pond.\\nUse your measurements and plan to start digging the hole for your koi fish pond. Use a sturdy shovel and get a friend to help you if possible, as this will make the process go a lot faster. Dig the sides of the pond so that they slope gently downwards towards the center if possible.\\nThe widest part of the pond is at the top.\\n2-2. Line the pond with a tough plastic or rubber liner.\\nOrder a one-piece pond liner from a home improvement or landscaping supplier. Install the liner as per the manufacturer's directions. Have several people help you to roll it out over the pond. Make sure that it overlaps the edges of the pond by at least 3 feet (0.91 m) so that it can be adequately secured in place.\\nRemove any sharp rocks or stones that you see in the hole before you lay the liner to prevent the liner from being damaged.\\nA liner in one piece will prevent the pond from leaking.\\n2-3. Place rocks over the liner around the edge of the pond.\\nUse large stones and rocks to completely cover the liner that is at surface level, leaving only the hole for the pond exposed. Stack and overlap the rocks using whatever design that you prefer. Make sure that at least 1 foot (0.30 m) of the liner is exposed beyond the edge of the rocks, as you will need this to prevent rainwater from getting into the pond.\\n2-4. Dig a 3 in (7.6 cm) high ridge around the edge of the rocks.\\nOnce you are happy with the final layout of the rocks and stones, dig a ridge around the edge. Use a spade to shift the dirt into a ridge formation up against the rocks. Make sure that the liner reaches onto the ridge.\\nThe end result will look like a small ridge running along the entire outline of the pond. The ridge will be just beyond the rocks along the edge.\\nThis prevents rainwater, soil, lawn chemicals, and grass clippings from reaching the pond water.\\n3. Adding and Adjusting the Water\\n3-1. Fill the pond with water.\\nUse a garden hose to fill up the koi fish pond. If the water isn't fresh or spring water, use a dechlorinator, a carbon charcoal filter, or a water conditioner to remove the chlorine. You can purchase these chlorine treatments from pond or fish supply stores. Always treat chlorinated water before adding it to the pond if there are fish already in it.\\nContact your water supplier if you are unsure about the water quality.\\nChlorinated water is toxic for fish such as koi.\\n3-2. Ensure the pH of the water remains between 7 and 8.6.\\nUse a water testing kit to test if the pH and dissolved nutrients are at the right levels for the fish. Adjust the parameters of the water if the testing kit shows that it is necessary. This helps the koi to stay happy and healthy.\\nIt is a common problem to have dissolved nutrient levels that are too high. Avoid overfeeding the koi and overstocking the pond, and change the water gradually if necessary.\\nIf you need to change the water in the pond, do it in amounts of 10% to 20% of the total volume. Otherwise, the fish may go into shock.\\n3-3. Keep the temperature of the pond around 65 °F (18 °C).\\nMeasure the temperature of the pond regularly with a thermometer. Use a pond heater as well as an aerator if necessary. If you find that the pond is getting too warm, very gradually add cold water to slowly reduce the temperature in the pond.\\nKoi can survive in water that is 34–90 °F (1–32 °C), but they do best at 65 °F (18 °C).\\nNever change the water temperature of the pond all at once, as this can cause the koi to go into shock which can be deadly.\\n4. Installing Equipment and Adding Koi\\n4-1. Install a filtration system into the koi fish pond.\\nPurchase a filtration system from a pond equipment supplier and follow the installation directions closely. All pond filtration systems involve a bottom drain, a settling chamber, mechanical filtration, and biological processing. This keeps the pond clean and the water quality high so that the koi stay healthy.\\nSet up the filtration system box right next to the koi pond. Dig it into the ground slightly. Install the individual parts in the pond as per the installation directions.\\nThe settling chamber makes it easy for you to remove debris from the pond to keep it clean. An ideal settling chamber size for koi fish ponds is 40 in (1.0 m) deep and 40 in (1.0 m) in diameter.\\nThe mechanical filtration part of the system will catch debris as it floats through the water.\\nBiological filtration is the addition of beneficial bacteria into the pond. This reduces the levels of ammonia and nitrite in the water which are toxic for koi.\\n4-2. Place an aerator in the pond.\\nA pond aerator will keep the pond water moving at all times. This keeps the water stirring, oxygenates the pond, and promotes gas exchange. It also prevents the pond water from freezing during colder months.\\nA pond aerator is an ideal and economical substitute for a pond heater.\\nThe size of the pond aerator that you need depends on the size of your koi pond. Know the volume, shape, and depth of your koi pond before you purchase an aerator and choose one that is designed for the size of your koi pond.\\n4-3. Turn on the filtration system and aerator.\\nOnce your pond is full of water, start preparing the water for the koi by getting the filtration system and aerator up and running. Always do this before adding the koi to the pond.\\n4-4. Put the koi into the pond once it is set up.\\nKeep the koi in the water and in the plastic bag that they were purchased in. Float the plastic bag in your koi pond for 30 minutes so that they can adjust to the temperature change. Then add a bit of pond water into the plastic bag, tie it up, and let it float for an additional 30 minutes to help the koi adjust to the pond water.\\nAfter the koi have been given time to adjust, open the plastic bag again and release them into their new pond.\\nDon't let the plastic bag float continuously in direct sunlight, as this could cause the koi to overheat. Place a towel over the bag if there isn't a shady spot.\\n4-5. Care for the koi\\nFeed the koi specialty pellets regularly and treat any health problems that arise. Maintain the water quality in the pond and keep it clean, so that the koi stay happy and healthy!\\nTips\\nWith the right care, koi usually live 30-40 years.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Koi are beautiful, ornamental fish that can live for a long time in the right conditions. Building your own koi fish pond in your garden can sound like a difficult task, however, with a bit of planning and patience, it won't take too long at all! Plan out the size and depth of the pond first, and then dig the hole and line it with a pond liner. Install all of the necessary equipment such as a filtration system and an aerator to keep the koi happy and healthy.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning out the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose a pond that is a minimum of 12 feet (3.7 m) long by 10 feet (3.0 m) wide.\", \"描述\": \"This is an ideal and popular size for a backyard, hobby koi fish pond. A pond of this size generally holds 10 mature fish, giving them enough space to thrive and for the pond to not look overcrowded.\\nKeep the width of the pond 13 feet (4.0 m) or under, as otherwise, it will be difficult to catch the fish using a net if you need to.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Make your koi pond 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep.\", \"描述\": \"A good size for a hobby koi pond is 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) deep. Some ponds for koi that are raised for competitions reach a depth of 6–8 feet (1.8–2.4 m), however, for beginners and hobby koi enthusiasts, having a deeper pond isn't necessary.\\nIt's important that the pond is a minimum of 3 feet (0.91 m) as this makes it less likely to fully freeze over during winter.\\nOnce you have determined the size and depth of the pond, you will be able to calculate the estimated volume. To calculate the volume of the pond in cubic feet, multiply the depth by the width by the length. To calculate the volume of the pond in gallons, multiply the volume in cubic feet by 7.5. You will need these volume measurements for the upkeep of the water quality in the pond.\\nA lot of birds and turtles like fish. So you should be careful.\\nTo prevent turtles and birds from wiping out all the beautiful fish, make sure the pond is deep enough so the fish can hide and make hiding spots at the bottom.\\nYou can put masonry blocks or something with holes where they can hide.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose an accessible location for your koi pond.\", \"描述\": \"Walk around your garden and pick where you would like the pond to go. Make sure that the site is very accessible so that you can easily bring in all of the materials for the pond and have enough space to work.\\nSome people like to have a koi fish pond located close to their home and viewable from a window, while others prefer to have the pond set back into the garden so that you can take a walk to reach it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Clear the site where you are planning to put the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have decided on the size, depth, and location of the pond, get the area where your working area ready. Move any vegetation or furniture out of the way. Pull up any pavers that may be covering the ground. Make sure that there is enough room around the site so that you can work there easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Map out the shape of the pond on the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Mark out the dimensions of your pond directly onto the ground. Choose a shape for the pond to be based on the dimensions that you have decided. Use either rope, a garden hose, or spray paint to make sure that you are happy with the size and location of the pond.\\nKoi ponds are often rectangles, L-shaped polygons, or irregular, round shapes.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Pond\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Dig the hole for the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Use your measurements and plan to start digging the hole for your koi fish pond. Use a sturdy shovel and get a friend to help you if possible, as this will make the process go a lot faster. Dig the sides of the pond so that they slope gently downwards towards the center if possible.\\nThe widest part of the pond is at the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Line the pond with a tough plastic or rubber liner.\", \"描述\": \"Order a one-piece pond liner from a home improvement or landscaping supplier. Install the liner as per the manufacturer's directions. Have several people help you to roll it out over the pond. Make sure that it overlaps the edges of the pond by at least 3 feet (0.91 m) so that it can be adequately secured in place.\\nRemove any sharp rocks or stones that you see in the hole before you lay the liner to prevent the liner from being damaged.\\nA liner in one piece will prevent the pond from leaking.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Place rocks over the liner around the edge of the pond.\", \"描述\": \"Use large stones and rocks to completely cover the liner that is at surface level, leaving only the hole for the pond exposed. Stack and overlap the rocks using whatever design that you prefer. Make sure that at least 1 foot (0.30 m) of the liner is exposed beyond the edge of the rocks, as you will need this to prevent rainwater from getting into the pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Dig a 3 in (7.6 cm) high ridge around the edge of the rocks.\", \"描述\": \"Once you are happy with the final layout of the rocks and stones, dig a ridge around the edge. Use a spade to shift the dirt into a ridge formation up against the rocks. Make sure that the liner reaches onto the ridge.\\nThe end result will look like a small ridge running along the entire outline of the pond. The ridge will be just beyond the rocks along the edge.\\nThis prevents rainwater, soil, lawn chemicals, and grass clippings from reaching the pond water.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding and Adjusting the Water\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Fill the pond with water.\", \"描述\": \"Use a garden hose to fill up the koi fish pond. If the water isn't fresh or spring water, use a dechlorinator, a carbon charcoal filter, or a water conditioner to remove the chlorine. You can purchase these chlorine treatments from pond or fish supply stores. Always treat chlorinated water before adding it to the pond if there are fish already in it.\\nContact your water supplier if you are unsure about the water quality.\\nChlorinated water is toxic for fish such as koi.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ensure the pH of the water remains between 7 and 8.6.\", \"描述\": \"Use a water testing kit to test if the pH and dissolved nutrients are at the right levels for the fish. Adjust the parameters of the water if the testing kit shows that it is necessary. This helps the koi to stay happy and healthy.\\nIt is a common problem to have dissolved nutrient levels that are too high. Avoid overfeeding the koi and overstocking the pond, and change the water gradually if necessary.\\nIf you need to change the water in the pond, do it in amounts of 10% to 20% of the total volume. Otherwise, the fish may go into shock.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Keep the temperature of the pond around 65 °F (18 °C).\", \"描述\": \"Measure the temperature of the pond regularly with a thermometer. Use a pond heater as well as an aerator if necessary. If you find that the pond is getting too warm, very gradually add cold water to slowly reduce the temperature in the pond.\\nKoi can survive in water that is 34–90 °F (1–32 °C), but they do best at 65 °F (18 °C).\\nNever change the water temperature of the pond all at once, as this can cause the koi to go into shock which can be deadly.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Installing Equipment and Adding Koi\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install a filtration system into the koi fish pond.\", \"描述\": \"Purchase a filtration system from a pond equipment supplier and follow the installation directions closely. All pond filtration systems involve a bottom drain, a settling chamber, mechanical filtration, and biological processing. This keeps the pond clean and the water quality high so that the koi stay healthy.\\nSet up the filtration system box right next to the koi pond. Dig it into the ground slightly. Install the individual parts in the pond as per the installation directions.\\nThe settling chamber makes it easy for you to remove debris from the pond to keep it clean. An ideal settling chamber size for koi fish ponds is 40 in (1.0 m) deep and 40 in (1.0 m) in diameter.\\nThe mechanical filtration part of the system will catch debris as it floats through the water.\\nBiological filtration is the addition of beneficial bacteria into the pond. This reduces the levels of ammonia and nitrite in the water which are toxic for koi.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place an aerator in the pond.\", \"描述\": \"A pond aerator will keep the pond water moving at all times. This keeps the water stirring, oxygenates the pond, and promotes gas exchange. It also prevents the pond water from freezing during colder months.\\nA pond aerator is an ideal and economical substitute for a pond heater.\\nThe size of the pond aerator that you need depends on the size of your koi pond. Know the volume, shape, and depth of your koi pond before you purchase an aerator and choose one that is designed for the size of your koi pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn on the filtration system and aerator.\", \"描述\": \"Once your pond is full of water, start preparing the water for the koi by getting the filtration system and aerator up and running. Always do this before adding the koi to the pond.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Put the koi into the pond once it is set up.\", \"描述\": \"Keep the koi in the water and in the plastic bag that they were purchased in. Float the plastic bag in your koi pond for 30 minutes so that they can adjust to the temperature change. Then add a bit of pond water into the plastic bag, tie it up, and let it float for an additional 30 minutes to help the koi adjust to the pond water.\\nAfter the koi have been given time to adjust, open the plastic bag again and release them into their new pond.\\nDon't let the plastic bag float continuously in direct sunlight, as this could cause the koi to overheat. Place a towel over the bag if there isn't a shady spot.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Care for the koi\", \"描述\": \"Feed the koi specialty pellets regularly and treat any health problems that arise. Maintain the water quality in the pond and keep it clean, so that the koi stay happy and healthy!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"With the right care, koi usually live 30-40 years.[22]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,399
How to Build a LAMP Server
1. Steps 1-1. Get the hardware requirements for your Server. More sophisticated sites need more power. 1-2. Get the necessary upload speed from your service provider. A default home internet upload speed is only around 1mb per minute. This may be too slow for graphics, videos, etc. 1-3. Install a version of Linux. Before you can build a LAMP server, you must have the Linux operating system. Visit distrowatch.com and select one you like. They are mostly the same, but be sure to pick one with an interface (KDE, Cinnamon, etc.) pre-installed if you are not a usual terminal user. Further, if the Linux version does not include a Windows installer, you will need to create a Live CD or USB flash drive (instructions in other wiki how articles). The following instructions work with Ubuntu Linux. 1-4. Install Apache on the server. Apache is a free and open-source web server that is well-known for running on Unix operating systems. There are two ways of installing Apache. You can use your console or a terminal window session. At the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install apache2 In order to keep installing Apache, you will have to have your sudo password. 1-5. Verify that Apache is operating. You’ll have to point your browser to the server’s IP address. This will let you know if Apache is running or not. 1-6. Install PHP on the server. PHP is a scripting language that was originally used for creating dynamic web pages. However, developers use it to create individual graphical applications while network and system administrators use PHP for command line interface abilities. At the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install php5 libapache2-mod-php5 1-7. Make sure PHP is completely installed. Restart Apache by typing at the command prompt:sudo /etc/init.d/apache2 restart 1-8. Confirm PHP is working correctly. Use the Apache document root to create a test file. The root will be /var/www. Your test file name’s extension must end with a .php. For the content, type: < ?php phpinfo(); ?> 1-9. Save the test file. Then point your browser to the following address: http://IP_ADDRESS/test.php Make sure you type your server’s IP address before /test.php. 1-10. Verify your test file. The browser should display, “Test PHP Page” on the screen. 1-11. Install MySQL on the server. MySQL stands for “My Structured Query Language.” MySQL is a relational database program. This application operates as a server, in which multiple users can access many databases. There are many software applications that use MySQL, such as WordPress. Even Google and Facebook use MySQL. At the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install mysql-server 1-12. Create a password for MySQL. In the command line, type: mysql -u root You should then see a command prompt that will look like mysql> At the command prompt, type: SET PASSWORD FOR 'root'@'localhost' = PASSWORD('YOURPASSWORD'); Enter your password where it shows YOURPASSWORD. This will be the one that you will use as a MySQL user. 1-13. Start your MySQL server. Type the following command: /etc/init.d/mysql start 1-14. Start working with your LAMP server.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Get the hardware requirements for your Server.\\nMore sophisticated sites need more power.\\n1-2. Get the necessary upload speed from your service provider.\\nA default home internet upload speed is only around 1mb per minute. This may be too slow for graphics, videos, etc.\\n1-3. Install a version of Linux.\\nBefore you can build a LAMP server, you must have the Linux operating system. Visit distrowatch.com and select one you like. They are mostly the same, but be sure to pick one with an interface (KDE, Cinnamon, etc.) pre-installed if you are not a usual terminal user. Further, if the Linux version does not include a Windows installer, you will need to create a Live CD or USB flash drive (instructions in other wiki how articles). The following instructions work with Ubuntu Linux.\\n1-4. Install Apache on the server.\\nApache is a free and open-source web server that is well-known for running on Unix operating systems. There are two ways of installing Apache. You can use your console or a terminal window session.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install apache2\\nIn order to keep installing Apache, you will have to have your sudo password.\\n1-5. Verify that Apache is operating.\\nYou’ll have to point your browser to the server’s IP address. This will let you know if Apache is running or not.\\n1-6. Install PHP on the server.\\nPHP is a scripting language that was originally used for creating dynamic web pages. However, developers use it to create individual graphical applications while network and system administrators use PHP for command line interface abilities.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install php5 libapache2-mod-php5\\n1-7. Make sure PHP is completely installed.\\nRestart Apache by typing at the command prompt:sudo /etc/init.d/apache2 restart\\n1-8. Confirm PHP is working correctly.\\nUse the Apache document root to create a test file. The root will be /var/www. Your test file name’s extension must end with a .php.\\nFor the content, type: < ?php phpinfo(); ?>\\n1-9. Save the test file.\\nThen point your browser to the following address: http://IP_ADDRESS/test.php\\nMake sure you type your server’s IP address before /test.php.\\n1-10. Verify your test file.\\nThe browser should display, “Test PHP Page” on the screen.\\n1-11. Install MySQL on the server.\\nMySQL stands for “My Structured Query Language.” MySQL is a relational database program. This application operates as a server, in which multiple users can access many databases. There are many software applications that use MySQL, such as WordPress. Even Google and Facebook use MySQL.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install mysql-server\\n1-12. Create a password for MySQL.\\nIn the command line, type: mysql -u root\\nYou should then see a command prompt that will look like mysql>\\nAt the command prompt, type: SET PASSWORD FOR 'root'@'localhost' = PASSWORD('YOURPASSWORD');\\nEnter your password where it shows YOURPASSWORD. This will be the one that you will use as a MySQL user.\\n1-13. Start your MySQL server.\\nType the following command: /etc/init.d/mysql start\\n1-14. Start working with your LAMP server.\\n\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you're looking for an inexpensive way to run a server, try building a LAMP stack by installing Linux, Apache, MySQL, and PHP. Installing all of these open-source softwares is easy, and we'll help you get it set up!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the hardware requirements for your Server.\", \"描述\": \"More sophisticated sites need more power.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Get the necessary upload speed from your service provider.\", \"描述\": \"A default home internet upload speed is only around 1mb per minute. This may be too slow for graphics, videos, etc.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install a version of Linux.\", \"描述\": \"Before you can build a LAMP server, you must have the Linux operating system. Visit distrowatch.com and select one you like. They are mostly the same, but be sure to pick one with an interface (KDE, Cinnamon, etc.) pre-installed if you are not a usual terminal user. Further, if the Linux version does not include a Windows installer, you will need to create a Live CD or USB flash drive (instructions in other wiki how articles). The following instructions work with Ubuntu Linux.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install Apache on the server.\", \"描述\": \"Apache is a free and open-source web server that is well-known for running on Unix operating systems. There are two ways of installing Apache. You can use your console or a terminal window session.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install apache2\\nIn order to keep installing Apache, you will have to have your sudo password.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Verify that Apache is operating.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll have to point your browser to the server’s IP address. This will let you know if Apache is running or not.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install PHP on the server.\", \"描述\": \"PHP is a scripting language that was originally used for creating dynamic web pages. However, developers use it to create individual graphical applications while network and system administrators use PHP for command line interface abilities.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install php5 libapache2-mod-php5\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Make sure PHP is completely installed.\", \"描述\": \"Restart Apache by typing at the command prompt:sudo /etc/init.d/apache2 restart\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Confirm PHP is working correctly.\", \"描述\": \"Use the Apache document root to create a test file. The root will be /var/www. Your test file name’s extension must end with a .php.\\nFor the content, type: < ?php phpinfo(); ?>\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Save the test file.\", \"描述\": \"Then point your browser to the following address: http://IP_ADDRESS/test.php\\nMake sure you type your server’s IP address before /test.php.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Verify your test file.\", \"描述\": \"The browser should display, “Test PHP Page” on the screen.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Install MySQL on the server.\", \"描述\": \"MySQL stands for “My Structured Query Language.” MySQL is a relational database program. This application operates as a server, in which multiple users can access many databases. There are many software applications that use MySQL, such as WordPress. Even Google and Facebook use MySQL.\\nAt the command prompt, type: sudo apt-get install mysql-server\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Create a password for MySQL.\", \"描述\": \"In the command line, type: mysql -u root\\nYou should then see a command prompt that will look like mysql>\\nAt the command prompt, type: SET PASSWORD FOR 'root'@'localhost' = PASSWORD('YOURPASSWORD');\\nEnter your password where it shows YOURPASSWORD. This will be the one that you will use as a MySQL user.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Start your MySQL server.\", \"描述\": \"Type the following command: /etc/init.d/mysql start\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Start working with your LAMP server.\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,400
How to Build a LEGO Car
1. Setting Up Your Build Station 1-1. Gather your LEGO materials. If you are following a set of instructions for an official LEGO car set, make sure you have the instructions and all the pieces needed for your car. If you are designing your own car, make sure you have a variety of LEGO pieces handy so that you can create whatever you want. For a very basic LEGO car, you will need a minimum of 4 tires of the same size, 2 axles of the same size, and at least one long LEGO piece to connect them. LEGO also manufactures pieces like steering wheels, seats, windshields, and car doors that you may enjoy adding to enhance your car’s details. 1-2. Find a safe, clear space to build the car. A table or desk near a bright lighting source is a good place to build a LEGO car. You want to find a space that’s big enough for you to spread out your pieces (and instructions, if you’re using them). LEGO pieces are small and can pose a choking hazard to pets and small children if they’re left lying around. If they’re left on the floor they might also be stepped on, which can be painful. Building on the floor will work, but keep an eye on your pieces to make sure they stay in a contained area. 1-3. Spread your LEGO pieces neatly in front of you. Organize the pieces by size and shape, so it is easier to pick the pieces you need. If working with small children, make sure the children do not put the LEGO pieces in their mouths, as they are a choking hazard. 2. Building a Basic LEGO Car 2-1. Gather your pieces. This simple car can be built using LEGO pieces that almost everyone has. You will need several different types of pieces for this car, and you can vary the pieces used based on what you have. Measurements for LEGO pieces are given in "stud" count (the "dots" on many LEGO pieces). A brick that is 2 studs wide by 4 studs long is a 2x4. For the chassis you will need 4 tires of the same size, 2 rectangular axles of the same size, and a thin 4x12 plate (the long, thin LEGO pieces). For the body, you will need 2 2x2 bricks, 6 2x4 bricks, 4 1x2 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, 2 2x2 clear angular bricks, 1 LEGO windshield, and 1 LEGO steering wheel piece. 2-2. Snap tires to axle pieces. The axle pieces are small square or rectangular pieces that have prongs on either side. Snap one tire to each prong. When finished, you should have two sets of wheels connected by the axles. Make sure the axle pieces and tires fit together snugly. The tires should be secure, but still able to spin freely. Make sure your tires and base piece are proportionate. Tiny tires will not adequately support a larger LEGO car, and will impede speed and movement. 2-3. Build the front hood. You’ll need 2 2x2 square bricks and two 2x2 clear angular bricks. Alternately, you could use one 2x4 brick and two 2x2 clear angular bricks. Snap the clear bricks to the top of the square bricks. Attach the pieces you just completed to the front end of your car. Make sure the end of the plate is flush with the edge of the pieces you attached. 2-4. Build the windshield section. This piece will sit directly behind the hood you just built. You will need 2 2x4 bricks and a 2x4 LEGO windshield piece. Stack two 2x4 bricks together. Snap on the windshield piece. Attach this section to the plate just behind the piece you attached in Step 3. 2-5. Build the cab. You will need 1 2x4 rectangular brick, 2 1x2 rectangular bricks, and a 1x2 LEGO steering wheel piece. Snap the 1x2 bricks to either end of the 2x4 brick. It should look a little like a short “u” when you’re finished. Position the steering wheel in the space between the 1x2 bricks. The piece should be on the back row of studs with the wheel facing you. Press into place. Attach this section to the base just behind the windshield section. Build the body of the car. You will need 1 2x4 brick and 2 1x2 bricks. Snap these together to form a “u." Attach this section to the plate just behind the cab. 2-6. Build the back end and “spoiler.” You will need 2 2x4 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, and 1 2x4 plate (thinner than the bricks). Stack the two 2x4 bricks. Snap the 1x4 brick to the back of this stack. Press the plate onto the 1x4 brick so that it hangs off the back of the structure a little. It should look like the little “wing” on the back of a sports car. Attach this section to the base just behind the body section. 2-7. Press your axle pieces onto the underside of the plate. One should go under the front of the base and one under the rear. The front edge of the front wheels should line up approximately with the front end of the base piece. The back edge of the rear tires should line up approximately with the rear end of the base piece. If the tires are obstructed, change the width of the base piece, or find two longer, matching axle pieces. 2-8. Select a LEGO figurine. Bend the figurine at its waist so it’s sitting and place it in the space behind the steering wheel. 2-9. Enjoy your car! If it moves too slowly, the car may be too big for the base piece and the tires. You can experiment with different designs to get the look and power you want. 3. Building a Rubber Band-Powered LEGO Car 3-1. Select your bricks. You will need some specialized bricks for this build, such as bricks with holes in them, thin rod-type axles, and separate wheel rims and tires. These come in LEGO Technic sets, or you can buy them separately from a LEGO Store or online. You will need 2 1x10 bricks with holes in the sides, 1 2x4 plate (thinner than a 2x4 brick), 1 8x4 plate, 1 1x4 brick, 1 2x4 brick, 1 2x2 brick, 1 2x8 brick, 2 Technic axles, 4 LEGO wheel rims, and 4 LEGO tires. You will also need 2 rubber bands. 3-2. Attach the tires to the wheel rims. For optimal energy transfer, you should have two larger wheels for the back and two smaller wheels for the front. Set these aside for now. 3-3. Build the car chassis. Place the 1x10 bricks side by side, like railroad tracks. Snap the 2x4 plate and 8x4 plate to the tops of the bricks. Now you should have a chassis that is 4x10. 3-4. Build the car body. This will be the structure that the rubber band attaches to in order to create the power to move the car. Snap the 1x4 brick to the very front of the chassis. Forming a “T” shape, snap the 2x4 brick to the middle of the plate just behind the brick you just placed. Snap the 2x2 brick to the very back of the chassis. Place it in the middle of the plate so there is 1 stud on either side. Attach the 2x8 brick so that it covers the last 2 studs of the “T” shape. The back of this brick should hang out over the back end of the chassis. 3-5. Tie the rubber bands in a cow hitch knot. This is an easy knot you can tie with two closed loops (like rubber bands are). Wrap one rubber band around the finger and thumb of your non-dominant hand. Slip the other band through the center of band #1 and pull about halfway through. Slide one end of band #2 through the loop formed by its other end and pull to secure. 3-6. Place the back axle. Slide one axle through the last hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very back of your car. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle. 3-7. Attach the knotted rubber bands to the back axle. To do this, slide one end of one band up and under the axle until you can see a little loop. Thread the other end of the bands and pull to secure. 3-8. Pull the rubber band up and over the top of your car body. The band should run under the whole length of the chassis. Slip the end of the rubber band under the protruding part of the very top brick. 3-9. Place the front axle. Slide the other axle through the first hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very front of your car. Make sure the rubber band is under the axle. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle. 3-10. Make the car go. To wind up the car, place the car on a flat, smooth surface and pull the it backwards. This will build up tension in the rubber band. When you let go, it should go speeding away! 4. Building a Balloon-Powered LEGO Car 4-1. Build a basic LEGO car. The design in this part creates a “dragster”-style car that is very light and has a low, stable center of gravity. You can design your own car, but try to keep it lightweight and low to the ground. For this design, you will need 2 rectangular axles, 4 tires of equal size, 4 2x8 bricks, 8 2x4 bricks, 2 1x2 bricks, and a thin plate at least 2x4 (but a longer plate is better). You will also need one small party balloon. 4-2. Place the 2x8 bricks together end-to-end in two rows. Each row should be 2x16 now. Snap a 2x4 brick to the top of each row to connect the 2x8 bricks. 4-3. Turn the connected bricks over. Snap the thin plate to the bottom of both rows so that they are connected. Attach the tires to the axles. Place an axle at each end of the car. Turn the body over. You should now have a car body that is 4x16 with the two 2x4 bricks on top and wheels on the bottom. 4-4. Stack 5 2x4 bricks together. Snap this column to the back of your car body. Make sure the bricks are connected snugly, but don’t press too hard or you might break the car body. Snap the 1x2 bricks to the top of the 2x4 column. Place one at each end to create a little hollow in the middle. Attach the final 2x4 brick to the top of the column. You should have a small hole in the middle of the column near the top. 4-5. Thread the balloon through the hole. In order to propel your car, you will want the body of the balloon to be placed over the body of your car. Slip the neck of the balloon through the hole, but don’t pull the balloon all the way through. 4-6. Inflate the balloon. You may find it easier to blow up the balloon if you pick up the car and hold it close to your face while you inflate it. When the balloon is inflated, pinch the neck with your fingers to keep the air in. 4-7. Place your car on a flat, smooth surface. Release the neck of the balloon. Your car should speed away from you as the air pushes out of the balloon! Tips The instructions given here are just the basics. You should definitely have fun experimenting and building your own designs! As long as you have the fundamentals of wheels, axles, and something for a body, you can make any car you can imagine. Get creative with colors, accessories, and styles. Mix and match the blocks you use for the sides of the car and rearrange accessories to change the car's appearance. Swap LEGO pieces with your friends to expand your LEGO collection. Or invite your friends to bring their LEGOs over to your house so you can build the ultimate car! Warnings When you're finished with your car, make sure you put away all the LEGO pieces. Stray LEGO pieces are painful when stepped on, a choking hazard to household pets, and can damage vacuum cleaners. Keep away from small children due to small pieces which would lead to choking.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Setting Up Your Build Station\\n1-1. Gather your LEGO materials.\\nIf you are following a set of instructions for an official LEGO car set, make sure you have the instructions and all the pieces needed for your car. If you are designing your own car, make sure you have a variety of LEGO pieces handy so that you can create whatever you want.\\nFor a very basic LEGO car, you will need a minimum of 4 tires of the same size, 2 axles of the same size, and at least one long LEGO piece to connect them. LEGO also manufactures pieces like steering wheels, seats, windshields, and car doors that you may enjoy adding to enhance your car’s details.\\n1-2. Find a safe, clear space to build the car.\\nA table or desk near a bright lighting source is a good place to build a LEGO car. You want to find a space that’s big enough for you to spread out your pieces (and instructions, if you’re using them).\\nLEGO pieces are small and can pose a choking hazard to pets and small children if they’re left lying around. If they’re left on the floor they might also be stepped on, which can be painful. Building on the floor will work, but keep an eye on your pieces to make sure they stay in a contained area.\\n1-3. Spread your LEGO pieces neatly in front of you.\\nOrganize the pieces by size and shape, so it is easier to pick the pieces you need.\\nIf working with small children, make sure the children do not put the LEGO pieces in their mouths, as they are a choking hazard.\\n2. Building a Basic LEGO Car\\n2-1. Gather your pieces.\\nThis simple car can be built using LEGO pieces that almost everyone has. You will need several different types of pieces for this car, and you can vary the pieces used based on what you have. Measurements for LEGO pieces are given in \\\"stud\\\" count (the \\\"dots\\\" on many LEGO pieces). A brick that is 2 studs wide by 4 studs long is a 2x4.\\nFor the chassis you will need 4 tires of the same size, 2 rectangular axles of the same size, and a thin 4x12 plate (the long, thin LEGO pieces).\\nFor the body, you will need 2 2x2 bricks, 6 2x4 bricks, 4 1x2 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, 2 2x2 clear angular bricks, 1 LEGO windshield, and 1 LEGO steering wheel piece.\\n2-2. Snap tires to axle pieces.\\nThe axle pieces are small square or rectangular pieces that have prongs on either side. Snap one tire to each prong. When finished, you should have two sets of wheels connected by the axles.\\nMake sure the axle pieces and tires fit together snugly. The tires should be secure, but still able to spin freely.\\nMake sure your tires and base piece are proportionate. Tiny tires will not adequately support a larger LEGO car, and will impede speed and movement.\\n2-3. Build the front hood.\\nYou’ll need 2 2x2 square bricks and two 2x2 clear angular bricks. Alternately, you could use one 2x4 brick and two 2x2 clear angular bricks.\\nSnap the clear bricks to the top of the square bricks.\\nAttach the pieces you just completed to the front end of your car.\\nMake sure the end of the plate is flush with the edge of the pieces you attached.\\n2-4. Build the windshield section.\\nThis piece will sit directly behind the hood you just built. You will need 2 2x4 bricks and a 2x4 LEGO windshield piece.\\nStack two 2x4 bricks together. Snap on the windshield piece. Attach this section to the plate just behind the piece you attached in Step 3.\\n2-5. Build the cab.\\nYou will need 1 2x4 rectangular brick, 2 1x2 rectangular bricks, and a 1x2 LEGO steering wheel piece.\\nSnap the 1x2 bricks to either end of the 2x4 brick. It should look a little like a short “u” when you’re finished.\\nPosition the steering wheel in the space between the 1x2 bricks. The piece should be on the back row of studs with the wheel facing you. Press into place.\\nAttach this section to the base just behind the windshield section.\\nBuild the body of the car. You will need 1 2x4 brick and 2 1x2 bricks. Snap these together to form a “u.\\\" Attach this section to the plate just behind the cab.\\n2-6. Build the back end and “spoiler.”\\nYou will need 2 2x4 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, and 1 2x4 plate (thinner than the bricks).\\nStack the two 2x4 bricks. Snap the 1x4 brick to the back of this stack.\\nPress the plate onto the 1x4 brick so that it hangs off the back of the structure a little. It should look like the little “wing” on the back of a sports car.\\nAttach this section to the base just behind the body section.\\n2-7. Press your axle pieces onto the underside of the plate.\\nOne should go under the front of the base and one under the rear.\\nThe front edge of the front wheels should line up approximately with the front end of the base piece. The back edge of the rear tires should line up approximately with the rear end of the base piece.\\nIf the tires are obstructed, change the width of the base piece, or find two longer, matching axle pieces.\\n2-8. Select a LEGO figurine.\\nBend the figurine at its waist so it’s sitting and place it in the space behind the steering wheel.\\n2-9. Enjoy your car!\\nIf it moves too slowly, the car may be too big for the base piece and the tires. You can experiment with different designs to get the look and power you want.\\n3. Building a Rubber Band-Powered LEGO Car\\n3-1. Select your bricks.\\nYou will need some specialized bricks for this build, such as bricks with holes in them, thin rod-type axles, and separate wheel rims and tires. These come in LEGO Technic sets, or you can buy them separately from a LEGO Store or online.\\nYou will need 2 1x10 bricks with holes in the sides, 1 2x4 plate (thinner than a 2x4 brick), 1 8x4 plate, 1 1x4 brick, 1 2x4 brick, 1 2x2 brick, 1 2x8 brick, 2 Technic axles, 4 LEGO wheel rims, and 4 LEGO tires. You will also need 2 rubber bands.\\n3-2. Attach the tires to the wheel rims.\\nFor optimal energy transfer, you should have two larger wheels for the back and two smaller wheels for the front. Set these aside for now.\\n3-3. Build the car chassis.\\nPlace the 1x10 bricks side by side, like railroad tracks. Snap the 2x4 plate and 8x4 plate to the tops of the bricks. Now you should have a chassis that is 4x10.\\n3-4. Build the car body.\\nThis will be the structure that the rubber band attaches to in order to create the power to move the car.\\nSnap the 1x4 brick to the very front of the chassis.\\nForming a “T” shape, snap the 2x4 brick to the middle of the plate just behind the brick you just placed.\\nSnap the 2x2 brick to the very back of the chassis. Place it in the middle of the plate so there is 1 stud on either side.\\nAttach the 2x8 brick so that it covers the last 2 studs of the “T” shape. The back of this brick should hang out over the back end of the chassis.\\n3-5. Tie the rubber bands in a cow hitch knot.\\nThis is an easy knot you can tie with two closed loops (like rubber bands are).\\nWrap one rubber band around the finger and thumb of your non-dominant hand.\\nSlip the other band through the center of band #1 and pull about halfway through.\\nSlide one end of band #2 through the loop formed by its other end and pull to secure.\\n3-6. Place the back axle.\\nSlide one axle through the last hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very back of your car. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle.\\n3-7. Attach the knotted rubber bands to the back axle.\\nTo do this, slide one end of one band up and under the axle until you can see a little loop. Thread the other end of the bands and pull to secure.\\n3-8. Pull the rubber band up and over the top of your car body.\\nThe band should run under the whole length of the chassis. Slip the end of the rubber band under the protruding part of the very top brick.\\n3-9. Place the front axle.\\nSlide the other axle through the first hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very front of your car. Make sure the rubber band is under the axle. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle.\\n3-10. Make the car go.\\nTo wind up the car, place the car on a flat, smooth surface and pull the it backwards. This will build up tension in the rubber band. When you let go, it should go speeding away!\\n4. Building a Balloon-Powered LEGO Car\\n4-1. Build a basic LEGO car.\\nThe design in this part creates a “dragster”-style car that is very light and has a low, stable center of gravity. You can design your own car, but try to keep it lightweight and low to the ground.\\nFor this design, you will need 2 rectangular axles, 4 tires of equal size, 4 2x8 bricks, 8 2x4 bricks, 2 1x2 bricks, and a thin plate at least 2x4 (but a longer plate is better). You will also need one small party balloon.\\n4-2. Place the 2x8 bricks together end-to-end in two rows.\\nEach row should be 2x16 now. Snap a 2x4 brick to the top of each row to connect the 2x8 bricks.\\n4-3. Turn the connected bricks over.\\nSnap the thin plate to the bottom of both rows so that they are connected.\\nAttach the tires to the axles. Place an axle at each end of the car.\\nTurn the body over. You should now have a car body that is 4x16 with the two 2x4 bricks on top and wheels on the bottom.\\n4-4. Stack 5 2x4 bricks together.\\nSnap this column to the back of your car body. Make sure the bricks are connected snugly, but don’t press too hard or you might break the car body.\\nSnap the 1x2 bricks to the top of the 2x4 column. Place one at each end to create a little hollow in the middle.\\nAttach the final 2x4 brick to the top of the column. You should have a small hole in the middle of the column near the top.\\n4-5. Thread the balloon through the hole.\\nIn order to propel your car, you will want the body of the balloon to be placed over the body of your car. Slip the neck of the balloon through the hole, but don’t pull the balloon all the way through.\\n4-6. Inflate the balloon.\\nYou may find it easier to blow up the balloon if you pick up the car and hold it close to your face while you inflate it. When the balloon is inflated, pinch the neck with your fingers to keep the air in.\\n4-7. Place your car on a flat, smooth surface.\\nRelease the neck of the balloon. Your car should speed away from you as the air pushes out of the balloon!\\nTips\\nThe instructions given here are just the basics. You should definitely have fun experimenting and building your own designs! As long as you have the fundamentals of wheels, axles, and something for a body, you can make any car you can imagine.\\nGet creative with colors, accessories, and styles. Mix and match the blocks you use for the sides of the car and rearrange accessories to change the car's appearance.\\nSwap LEGO pieces with your friends to expand your LEGO collection. Or invite your friends to bring their LEGOs over to your house so you can build the ultimate car!\\nWarnings\\nWhen you're finished with your car, make sure you put away all the LEGO pieces. Stray LEGO pieces are painful when stepped on, a choking hazard to household pets, and can damage vacuum cleaners.\\nKeep away from small children due to small pieces which would lead to choking.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"One of the best things about LEGO building blocks is that you can design and build basically anything you can possibly imagine. A LEGO car is an easy, fast project that is fun for new builders and master builders alike. There are many options and ways to build a LEGO car, but the basic principles behind their construction remains the same. Go out and imagine your own!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Setting Up Your Build Station\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your LEGO materials.\", \"描述\": \"If you are following a set of instructions for an official LEGO car set, make sure you have the instructions and all the pieces needed for your car. If you are designing your own car, make sure you have a variety of LEGO pieces handy so that you can create whatever you want.\\nFor a very basic LEGO car, you will need a minimum of 4 tires of the same size, 2 axles of the same size, and at least one long LEGO piece to connect them. LEGO also manufactures pieces like steering wheels, seats, windshields, and car doors that you may enjoy adding to enhance your car’s details.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find a safe, clear space to build the car.\", \"描述\": \"A table or desk near a bright lighting source is a good place to build a LEGO car. You want to find a space that’s big enough for you to spread out your pieces (and instructions, if you’re using them).\\nLEGO pieces are small and can pose a choking hazard to pets and small children if they’re left lying around. If they’re left on the floor they might also be stepped on, which can be painful. Building on the floor will work, but keep an eye on your pieces to make sure they stay in a contained area.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Spread your LEGO pieces neatly in front of you.\", \"描述\": \"Organize the pieces by size and shape, so it is easier to pick the pieces you need.\\nIf working with small children, make sure the children do not put the LEGO pieces in their mouths, as they are a choking hazard.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a Basic LEGO Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your pieces.\", \"描述\": \"This simple car can be built using LEGO pieces that almost everyone has. You will need several different types of pieces for this car, and you can vary the pieces used based on what you have. Measurements for LEGO pieces are given in \\\"stud\\\" count (the \\\"dots\\\" on many LEGO pieces). A brick that is 2 studs wide by 4 studs long is a 2x4.\\nFor the chassis you will need 4 tires of the same size, 2 rectangular axles of the same size, and a thin 4x12 plate (the long, thin LEGO pieces).\\nFor the body, you will need 2 2x2 bricks, 6 2x4 bricks, 4 1x2 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, 2 2x2 clear angular bricks, 1 LEGO windshield, and 1 LEGO steering wheel piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Snap tires to axle pieces.\", \"描述\": \"The axle pieces are small square or rectangular pieces that have prongs on either side. Snap one tire to each prong. When finished, you should have two sets of wheels connected by the axles.\\nMake sure the axle pieces and tires fit together snugly. The tires should be secure, but still able to spin freely.\\nMake sure your tires and base piece are proportionate. Tiny tires will not adequately support a larger LEGO car, and will impede speed and movement.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the front hood.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need 2 2x2 square bricks and two 2x2 clear angular bricks. Alternately, you could use one 2x4 brick and two 2x2 clear angular bricks.\\nSnap the clear bricks to the top of the square bricks.\\nAttach the pieces you just completed to the front end of your car.\\nMake sure the end of the plate is flush with the edge of the pieces you attached.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the windshield section.\", \"描述\": \"This piece will sit directly behind the hood you just built. You will need 2 2x4 bricks and a 2x4 LEGO windshield piece.\\nStack two 2x4 bricks together. Snap on the windshield piece. Attach this section to the plate just behind the piece you attached in Step 3.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Build the cab.\", \"描述\": \"You will need 1 2x4 rectangular brick, 2 1x2 rectangular bricks, and a 1x2 LEGO steering wheel piece.\\nSnap the 1x2 bricks to either end of the 2x4 brick. It should look a little like a short “u” when you’re finished.\\nPosition the steering wheel in the space between the 1x2 bricks. The piece should be on the back row of studs with the wheel facing you. Press into place.\\nAttach this section to the base just behind the windshield section.\\nBuild the body of the car. You will need 1 2x4 brick and 2 1x2 bricks. Snap these together to form a “u.\\\" Attach this section to the plate just behind the cab.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Build the back end and “spoiler.”\", \"描述\": \"You will need 2 2x4 bricks, 1 1x4 brick, and 1 2x4 plate (thinner than the bricks).\\nStack the two 2x4 bricks. Snap the 1x4 brick to the back of this stack.\\nPress the plate onto the 1x4 brick so that it hangs off the back of the structure a little. It should look like the little “wing” on the back of a sports car.\\nAttach this section to the base just behind the body section.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Press your axle pieces onto the underside of the plate.\", \"描述\": \"One should go under the front of the base and one under the rear.\\nThe front edge of the front wheels should line up approximately with the front end of the base piece. The back edge of the rear tires should line up approximately with the rear end of the base piece.\\nIf the tires are obstructed, change the width of the base piece, or find two longer, matching axle pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Select a LEGO figurine.\", \"描述\": \"Bend the figurine at its waist so it’s sitting and place it in the space behind the steering wheel.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Enjoy your car!\", \"描述\": \"If it moves too slowly, the car may be too big for the base piece and the tires. You can experiment with different designs to get the look and power you want.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building a Rubber Band-Powered LEGO Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Select your bricks.\", \"描述\": \"You will need some specialized bricks for this build, such as bricks with holes in them, thin rod-type axles, and separate wheel rims and tires. These come in LEGO Technic sets, or you can buy them separately from a LEGO Store or online.\\nYou will need 2 1x10 bricks with holes in the sides, 1 2x4 plate (thinner than a 2x4 brick), 1 8x4 plate, 1 1x4 brick, 1 2x4 brick, 1 2x2 brick, 1 2x8 brick, 2 Technic axles, 4 LEGO wheel rims, and 4 LEGO tires. You will also need 2 rubber bands.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the tires to the wheel rims.\", \"描述\": \"For optimal energy transfer, you should have two larger wheels for the back and two smaller wheels for the front. Set these aside for now.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the car chassis.\", \"描述\": \"Place the 1x10 bricks side by side, like railroad tracks. Snap the 2x4 plate and 8x4 plate to the tops of the bricks. Now you should have a chassis that is 4x10.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the car body.\", \"描述\": \"This will be the structure that the rubber band attaches to in order to create the power to move the car.\\nSnap the 1x4 brick to the very front of the chassis.\\nForming a “T” shape, snap the 2x4 brick to the middle of the plate just behind the brick you just placed.\\nSnap the 2x2 brick to the very back of the chassis. Place it in the middle of the plate so there is 1 stud on either side.\\nAttach the 2x8 brick so that it covers the last 2 studs of the “T” shape. The back of this brick should hang out over the back end of the chassis.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Tie the rubber bands in a cow hitch knot.\", \"描述\": \"This is an easy knot you can tie with two closed loops (like rubber bands are).\\nWrap one rubber band around the finger and thumb of your non-dominant hand.\\nSlip the other band through the center of band #1 and pull about halfway through.\\nSlide one end of band #2 through the loop formed by its other end and pull to secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place the back axle.\", \"描述\": \"Slide one axle through the last hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very back of your car. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the knotted rubber bands to the back axle.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, slide one end of one band up and under the axle until you can see a little loop. Thread the other end of the bands and pull to secure.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Pull the rubber band up and over the top of your car body.\", \"描述\": \"The band should run under the whole length of the chassis. Slip the end of the rubber band under the protruding part of the very top brick.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Place the front axle.\", \"描述\": \"Slide the other axle through the first hole of the 10x1 bricks at the very front of your car. Make sure the rubber band is under the axle. Attach a wheel to either end of the axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Make the car go.\", \"描述\": \"To wind up the car, place the car on a flat, smooth surface and pull the it backwards. This will build up tension in the rubber band. When you let go, it should go speeding away!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building a Balloon-Powered LEGO Car\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Build a basic LEGO car.\", \"描述\": \"The design in this part creates a “dragster”-style car that is very light and has a low, stable center of gravity. You can design your own car, but try to keep it lightweight and low to the ground.\\nFor this design, you will need 2 rectangular axles, 4 tires of equal size, 4 2x8 bricks, 8 2x4 bricks, 2 1x2 bricks, and a thin plate at least 2x4 (but a longer plate is better). You will also need one small party balloon.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place the 2x8 bricks together end-to-end in two rows.\", \"描述\": \"Each row should be 2x16 now. Snap a 2x4 brick to the top of each row to connect the 2x8 bricks.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn the connected bricks over.\", \"描述\": \"Snap the thin plate to the bottom of both rows so that they are connected.\\nAttach the tires to the axles. Place an axle at each end of the car.\\nTurn the body over. You should now have a car body that is 4x16 with the two 2x4 bricks on top and wheels on the bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stack 5 2x4 bricks together.\", \"描述\": \"Snap this column to the back of your car body. Make sure the bricks are connected snugly, but don’t press too hard or you might break the car body.\\nSnap the 1x2 bricks to the top of the 2x4 column. Place one at each end to create a little hollow in the middle.\\nAttach the final 2x4 brick to the top of the column. You should have a small hole in the middle of the column near the top.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Thread the balloon through the hole.\", \"描述\": \"In order to propel your car, you will want the body of the balloon to be placed over the body of your car. Slip the neck of the balloon through the hole, but don’t pull the balloon all the way through.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Inflate the balloon.\", \"描述\": \"You may find it easier to blow up the balloon if you pick up the car and hold it close to your face while you inflate it. When the balloon is inflated, pinch the neck with your fingers to keep the air in.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place your car on a flat, smooth surface.\", \"描述\": \"Release the neck of the balloon. Your car should speed away from you as the air pushes out of the balloon!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The instructions given here are just the basics. You should definitely have fun experimenting and building your own designs! As long as you have the fundamentals of wheels, axles, and something for a body, you can make any car you can imagine.\\n\", \"Get creative with colors, accessories, and styles. Mix and match the blocks you use for the sides of the car and rearrange accessories to change the car's appearance.\\n\", \"Swap LEGO pieces with your friends to expand your LEGO collection. Or invite your friends to bring their LEGOs over to your house so you can build the ultimate car!\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"When you're finished with your car, make sure you put away all the LEGO pieces. Stray LEGO pieces are painful when stepped on, a choking hazard to household pets, and can damage vacuum cleaners.\\n\", \"Keep away from small children due to small pieces which would lead to choking.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,401
How to Build a LEGO House
1. Building a House from Scratch 1-1. Find a base. Get a LEGO table or one of those green LEGO platforms. This will be the floor of your house, as well as the yard, if you save room for one. If you build your house in two parts, on two different platforms, you can open it up to see what's inside by pulling the platforms apart. 1-2. Plan your house. Lay a bottom row of bricks as your "foundation," setting up locations for walls, doors, and the different rooms. Make a living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom if your house is big enough. Think about what is in a real house and let this be your guide. For example, where should the fireplace go? If you are going to build one, you'll want to lay some bricks for the chimney during this planning stage. If you're planning to add a second floor, make sure to save plenty of room for stairs. It's probably a good idea to build them while you're still laying the foundation so you know how much room they'll take up. 1-3. Build the outside walls. Build up the exterior walls of your house, row by row. Hint: your walls will be sturdier if you don't just stack the same kind of brick, one on top of the next. Instead, offset your rows so the "seams" between the bricks don't all line up from one row to the next. Don't forget to leave spaces for the windows. You can leave these as empty spaces in your walls, or, if you have special window parts, install them. It will be harder to go back and add these later if you forget to put them in while you're building the walls. 1-4. Build the interior walls. Finish setting up the rooms in the house with walls inside. 1-5. Make the furniture. For the living room, you can make chairs and a TV. For the kitchen, you can make a counter, sink, oven, etc. For the bedroom, make a bed and a desk, and for the bathroom, make a toilet, shower, and sink. If you have them, you can make your furniture more realistic with specialty parts. LEGO makes pieces that look like keyboards, stoves, faucets, and more. These kinds of details can add a lot of realism to your house. 1-6. Add decorative touches. Once you've finished the basics, you can start adding decorative touches to make your house more unique. You can add tile floors or a patio using small flat pieces, add light fixtures or a ceiling fan, and landscape the yard with trees and flowers. Use your imagination and the parts you have available to make your house as interesting as you can. 1-7. Add a roof. Adding a roof should be the last step in building your house because once you put it on, it's harder to to move things around inside your house. You can get around this problem by making a removable roof. Attach it with hinged parts so you can pull it back, or just set it on top rather than locking it in place for easier access. 1-8. Play with your new house! 2. Building a House from a Pattern 2-1. Get a pattern. The LEGO sets you can buy in the store come with instructions for building the creation shown on the box, and LEGO Creator sets have 3 alternative house models you can build. Alternatively, if you have a lot of parts already and are looking for house patterns or just general ideas for your house, there are several websites that provide patterns for free. The official LEGO website includes some free patterns, like these instructions for a basic house as well as videos that show you how to build many different creations. Many other websites also provide patterns for houses at varying challenge levels. Letsbuilditagain.com features a mix of old LEGO manuals that originally came with different sets and creations made by visitors to the website. They have many house patterns, too. 2-2. Check your parts. The pattern will tell you which parts you need to make the house in the picture. Go through your LEGOs and make sure you have all the parts you need. Otherwise, you might get halfway through and find that you can't finish your house. Even if you are building from a set, it's a good idea to make sure all the parts are there before you start building. Occasionally parts are missing, which can be very frustrating to discover part way through the building process. If you check your parts at the beginning and something is missing, you can take the set back to the store and get a new one it before you start. 2-3. Follow the pattern. Go step by step through the instructions, laying your bricks in place exactly as shown in the instructions. Sometimes it's helpful to count the studs (the bumps on top of each LEGO brick) between bricks in the pictures to make sure you get the spacing right. 2-4. Customize if desired. Once you've finished the house, you can customize it with your own LEGO parts. Maybe it needs some trees or flowers, or even a garage. For example, you can turn your house into a winter scene by adding thin white pieces to the yard for snow, and making icicles out of clear pieces. Tips Stagger the brick joints as it makes the walls more stable. When you take apart a house built from instructions, pay attention to how the parts were put together. This can give you good ideas for designing your own creations in the future. If you have LEGO Digital Designer (aka LDD) this is a perfect tool for planning your LEGO house. It also lets you build the house in 3D to plan it. Warnings Keep your house away from dogs and younger siblings. They can be very destructive to your creations. If you built your house from a pattern, keep the instructions, just in case you need to make some unexpected repairs. Keep LEGOs away from pets and young children, because it prove dangerous to them if swallowed.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a House from Scratch\\n1-1. Find a base.\\nGet a LEGO table or one of those green LEGO platforms. This will be the floor of your house, as well as the yard, if you save room for one.\\nIf you build your house in two parts, on two different platforms, you can open it up to see what's inside by pulling the platforms apart.\\n1-2. Plan your house.\\nLay a bottom row of bricks as your \\\"foundation,\\\" setting up locations for walls, doors, and the different rooms. Make a living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom if your house is big enough.\\nThink about what is in a real house and let this be your guide. For example, where should the fireplace go? If you are going to build one, you'll want to lay some bricks for the chimney during this planning stage.\\nIf you're planning to add a second floor, make sure to save plenty of room for stairs. It's probably a good idea to build them while you're still laying the foundation so you know how much room they'll take up.\\n1-3. Build the outside walls.\\nBuild up the exterior walls of your house, row by row.\\nHint: your walls will be sturdier if you don't just stack the same kind of brick, one on top of the next. Instead, offset your rows so the \\\"seams\\\" between the bricks don't all line up from one row to the next.\\nDon't forget to leave spaces for the windows. You can leave these as empty spaces in your walls, or, if you have special window parts, install them. It will be harder to go back and add these later if you forget to put them in while you're building the walls.\\n1-4. Build the interior walls.\\nFinish setting up the rooms in the house with walls inside.\\n1-5. Make the furniture.\\nFor the living room, you can make chairs and a TV. For the kitchen, you can make a counter, sink, oven, etc. For the bedroom, make a bed and a desk, and for the bathroom, make a toilet, shower, and sink.\\nIf you have them, you can make your furniture more realistic with specialty parts. LEGO makes pieces that look like keyboards, stoves, faucets, and more. These kinds of details can add a lot of realism to your house.\\n1-6. Add decorative touches.\\nOnce you've finished the basics, you can start adding decorative touches to make your house more unique.\\nYou can add tile floors or a patio using small flat pieces, add light fixtures or a ceiling fan, and landscape the yard with trees and flowers. Use your imagination and the parts you have available to make your house as interesting as you can.\\n1-7. Add a roof.\\nAdding a roof should be the last step in building your house because once you put it on, it's harder to to move things around inside your house.\\nYou can get around this problem by making a removable roof. Attach it with hinged parts so you can pull it back, or just set it on top rather than locking it in place for easier access.\\n1-8. Play with your new house!\\n\\n2. Building a House from a Pattern\\n2-1. Get a pattern.\\nThe LEGO sets you can buy in the store come with instructions for building the creation shown on the box, and LEGO Creator sets have 3 alternative house models you can build.\\nAlternatively, if you have a lot of parts already and are looking for house patterns or just general ideas for your house, there are several websites that provide patterns for free. The official LEGO website includes some free patterns, like these instructions for a basic house as well as videos that show you how to build many different creations.\\nMany other websites also provide patterns for houses at varying challenge levels.\\nLetsbuilditagain.com features a mix of old LEGO manuals that originally came with different sets and creations made by visitors to the website. They have many house patterns, too.\\n2-2. Check your parts.\\nThe pattern will tell you which parts you need to make the house in the picture. Go through your LEGOs and make sure you have all the parts you need. Otherwise, you might get halfway through and find that you can't finish your house.\\nEven if you are building from a set, it's a good idea to make sure all the parts are there before you start building. Occasionally parts are missing, which can be very frustrating to discover part way through the building process. If you check your parts at the beginning and something is missing, you can take the set back to the store and get a new one it before you start.\\n2-3. Follow the pattern.\\nGo step by step through the instructions, laying your bricks in place exactly as shown in the instructions.\\nSometimes it's helpful to count the studs (the bumps on top of each LEGO brick) between bricks in the pictures to make sure you get the spacing right.\\n2-4. Customize if desired.\\nOnce you've finished the house, you can customize it with your own LEGO parts. Maybe it needs some trees or flowers, or even a garage.\\nFor example, you can turn your house into a winter scene by adding thin white pieces to the yard for snow, and making icicles out of clear pieces.\\nTips\\nStagger the brick joints as it makes the walls more stable.\\nWhen you take apart a house built from instructions, pay attention to how the parts were put together. This can give you good ideas for designing your own creations in the future.\\nIf you have LEGO Digital Designer (aka LDD) this is a perfect tool for planning your LEGO house. It also lets you build the house in 3D to plan it.\\nWarnings\\nKeep your house away from dogs and younger siblings. They can be very destructive to your creations. If you built your house from a pattern, keep the instructions, just in case you need to make some unexpected repairs.\\nKeep LEGOs away from pets and young children, because it prove dangerous to them if swallowed.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"LEGO bricks are a fun toy enjoyed by people of all ages. One of the most common creations people build from LEGO pieces is a house. Depending on the parts you have available and how much time you want to put into it, you can make your house a basic bungalow or a masterpiece mansion. These instructions will help you build your own creative home from LEGO.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a House from Scratch\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a base.\", \"描述\": \"Get a LEGO table or one of those green LEGO platforms. This will be the floor of your house, as well as the yard, if you save room for one.\\nIf you build your house in two parts, on two different platforms, you can open it up to see what's inside by pulling the platforms apart.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Plan your house.\", \"描述\": \"Lay a bottom row of bricks as your \\\"foundation,\\\" setting up locations for walls, doors, and the different rooms. Make a living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom if your house is big enough.\\nThink about what is in a real house and let this be your guide. For example, where should the fireplace go? If you are going to build one, you'll want to lay some bricks for the chimney during this planning stage.\\nIf you're planning to add a second floor, make sure to save plenty of room for stairs. It's probably a good idea to build them while you're still laying the foundation so you know how much room they'll take up.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the outside walls.\", \"描述\": \"Build up the exterior walls of your house, row by row.\\nHint: your walls will be sturdier if you don't just stack the same kind of brick, one on top of the next. Instead, offset your rows so the \\\"seams\\\" between the bricks don't all line up from one row to the next.\\nDon't forget to leave spaces for the windows. You can leave these as empty spaces in your walls, or, if you have special window parts, install them. It will be harder to go back and add these later if you forget to put them in while you're building the walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Build the interior walls.\", \"描述\": \"Finish setting up the rooms in the house with walls inside.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Make the furniture.\", \"描述\": \"For the living room, you can make chairs and a TV. For the kitchen, you can make a counter, sink, oven, etc. For the bedroom, make a bed and a desk, and for the bathroom, make a toilet, shower, and sink.\\nIf you have them, you can make your furniture more realistic with specialty parts. LEGO makes pieces that look like keyboards, stoves, faucets, and more. These kinds of details can add a lot of realism to your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Add decorative touches.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've finished the basics, you can start adding decorative touches to make your house more unique.\\nYou can add tile floors or a patio using small flat pieces, add light fixtures or a ceiling fan, and landscape the yard with trees and flowers. Use your imagination and the parts you have available to make your house as interesting as you can.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Add a roof.\", \"描述\": \"Adding a roof should be the last step in building your house because once you put it on, it's harder to to move things around inside your house.\\nYou can get around this problem by making a removable roof. Attach it with hinged parts so you can pull it back, or just set it on top rather than locking it in place for easier access.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Play with your new house!\", \"描述\": \"\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building a House from a Pattern\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get a pattern.\", \"描述\": \"The LEGO sets you can buy in the store come with instructions for building the creation shown on the box, and LEGO Creator sets have 3 alternative house models you can build.\\nAlternatively, if you have a lot of parts already and are looking for house patterns or just general ideas for your house, there are several websites that provide patterns for free. The official LEGO website includes some free patterns, like these instructions for a basic house as well as videos that show you how to build many different creations.\\nMany other websites also provide patterns for houses at varying challenge levels.\\nLetsbuilditagain.com features a mix of old LEGO manuals that originally came with different sets and creations made by visitors to the website. They have many house patterns, too.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check your parts.\", \"描述\": \"The pattern will tell you which parts you need to make the house in the picture. Go through your LEGOs and make sure you have all the parts you need. Otherwise, you might get halfway through and find that you can't finish your house.\\nEven if you are building from a set, it's a good idea to make sure all the parts are there before you start building. Occasionally parts are missing, which can be very frustrating to discover part way through the building process. If you check your parts at the beginning and something is missing, you can take the set back to the store and get a new one it before you start.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Follow the pattern.\", \"描述\": \"Go step by step through the instructions, laying your bricks in place exactly as shown in the instructions.\\nSometimes it's helpful to count the studs (the bumps on top of each LEGO brick) between bricks in the pictures to make sure you get the spacing right.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Customize if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Once you've finished the house, you can customize it with your own LEGO parts. Maybe it needs some trees or flowers, or even a garage.\\nFor example, you can turn your house into a winter scene by adding thin white pieces to the yard for snow, and making icicles out of clear pieces.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Stagger the brick joints as it makes the walls more stable.\\n\", \"When you take apart a house built from instructions, pay attention to how the parts were put together. This can give you good ideas for designing your own creations in the future.\\n\", \"If you have LEGO Digital Designer (aka LDD) this is a perfect tool for planning your LEGO house. It also lets you build the house in 3D to plan it.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Keep your house away from dogs and younger siblings. They can be very destructive to your creations. If you built your house from a pattern, keep the instructions, just in case you need to make some unexpected repairs.\\n\", \"Keep LEGOs away from pets and young children, because it prove dangerous to them if swallowed.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,402
How to Build a LEGO Tower
1. Building a Simple Tower 1-1. Place a baseplate on a flat, sturdy surface. A LEGO baseplate is a flat piece covered in studs so you have a starting point for your tower. Lay the baseplate on a flat and sturdy surface like a large table so it does not move around once you start building on it. Be careful if you are building on the floor. Sometimes, heavy footsteps are all it takes for a tower to topple. Baseplates come in many colors, from green to blue to grey. If you want to build your tower on “cement,” use a grey baseplate. 1-2. Use square and rectangular bricks at least 2 studs wide. If the bricks are wider, your tower will be sturdier as it increases in size. 2x2 and 2x4 bricks work perfectly for building exterior walls for your tower, but you can experiment with any size you’d like. 1-3. Build 4 walls that are the same length. Attach bricks to the baseplate to form a foundation for your tower. These will be your ground floor exterior walls, so outline how big you want your tower to be. A smaller base will use fewer bricks, but the tower will be less sturdy the taller you make it. A larger base will use more bricks, but will make it sturdier as it grows taller. Using the same color for your whole tower will make it look uniform or you can mix and match bricks to have a multicolored building! 1-4. Stagger where the seams meet as you build taller. If you stack the same piece in line with the piece below it, you line up the seams. When the seams are lined up, the tower will be less sturdy and more likely to collapse when you make it taller. 1-5. Avoid building interiors to save bricks. While it may be nice to have separate floors inside of your tower, it will only use more bricks in the end and cost more money. Not many people besides yourself will see inside of the tower. Use the extra pieces to build your tower taller. 1-6. Taper or expand the top of your tower. Many towers and skyscrapers start to taper as they reach the top. If you want to have a similar effect with your LEGO tower, attach one brick to another so 1 stud is exposed on the exterior. If you want your tower to look more like a castle, build the bricks outwards by leaving 1 stud exposed on the interior of the tower. 1-7. Give your tower some decorations. Once you’ve finished building the basics of your tower, you can get creative by adding your own touches. Make it unique! Does your tower have antennae or satellite dishes? Do you want to add gargoyles or clear studs to simulate lights? Look at pictures of towers to see what you can incorporate. 2. Constructing a Complex Tower 2-1. Create a uniquely shaped base for your tower. Rather than making a square tower, create a different shape for the base. Take inspiration from real blueprints or create a shape entirely your own! Set up a base with blocks 2 studs wide to help you plan the entire structure. You can build complex towers like the Eiffel Tower by stacking blocks from the corner of a baseplate towards the center like a pyramid. 2-2. Incorporate doors and windows. If you want your building to have a more realistic look to it, it will need to leave room to add doors and windows. Leave these areas empty or use the specific pieces for them if you have them. Take inspiration from real buildings. Most buildings alternate between columns and windows as you build them up. You can always skip adding these if you are only looking to build the tower for height. 2-3. Build the walls with different shaped pieces. Keep adding blocks to the exterior wall, but use archways, sloped bricks, and different colored blocks to add variety. Your tower can look however you want to. As you experiment with pieces, support your tower as you attach them so it doesn’t fall over. Individual pieces can be purchased on the official LEGO online store. 2-4. Decorate your tower with your own finishing touches. Give your tower overhangs or decor with whatever pieces you have leftover. If the tower is based on a real building, what details are you missing from your build? Give your flower a flowered walkway up to the doors. Put a lightning rod on top of the tower for extra height and decoration. Tips Websites like Brick Instructions (http://lego.brickinstructions.com/) or Let’s Build it Again! (http://letsbuilditagain.com/index.php) feature online versions of manuals from past sets that you can find easily on your computer. Look up pictures of towers and skyscrapers for inspiration. That way, you can base your tower’s construction on real-life places. The larger you build the base of your tower, the more blocks you will have to use to complete it. Keep in mind how many blocks you have and how tall you want your tower. Warnings Legos are a choking hazard for young children and pets. Keep your pieces organized and off the floor. Always be aware of the sturdiness of your tower as you build it taller. The corners of LEGO bricks will hurt if a heavy chunk falls on you.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building a Simple Tower\\n1-1. Place a baseplate on a flat, sturdy surface.\\nA LEGO baseplate is a flat piece covered in studs so you have a starting point for your tower. Lay the baseplate on a flat and sturdy surface like a large table so it does not move around once you start building on it.\\nBe careful if you are building on the floor. Sometimes, heavy footsteps are all it takes for a tower to topple.\\nBaseplates come in many colors, from green to blue to grey. If you want to build your tower on “cement,” use a grey baseplate.\\n1-2. Use square and rectangular bricks at least 2 studs wide.\\nIf the bricks are wider, your tower will be sturdier as it increases in size. 2x2 and 2x4 bricks work perfectly for building exterior walls for your tower, but you can experiment with any size you’d like.\\n1-3. Build 4 walls that are the same length.\\nAttach bricks to the baseplate to form a foundation for your tower. These will be your ground floor exterior walls, so outline how big you want your tower to be.\\nA smaller base will use fewer bricks, but the tower will be less sturdy the taller you make it. A larger base will use more bricks, but will make it sturdier as it grows taller.\\nUsing the same color for your whole tower will make it look uniform or you can mix and match bricks to have a multicolored building!\\n1-4. Stagger where the seams meet as you build taller.\\nIf you stack the same piece in line with the piece below it, you line up the seams. When the seams are lined up, the tower will be less sturdy and more likely to collapse when you make it taller.\\n1-5. Avoid building interiors to save bricks.\\nWhile it may be nice to have separate floors inside of your tower, it will only use more bricks in the end and cost more money. Not many people besides yourself will see inside of the tower. Use the extra pieces to build your tower taller.\\n1-6. Taper or expand the top of your tower.\\nMany towers and skyscrapers start to taper as they reach the top. If you want to have a similar effect with your LEGO tower, attach one brick to another so 1 stud is exposed on the exterior.\\nIf you want your tower to look more like a castle, build the bricks outwards by leaving 1 stud exposed on the interior of the tower.\\n1-7. Give your tower some decorations.\\nOnce you’ve finished building the basics of your tower, you can get creative by adding your own touches. Make it unique!\\nDoes your tower have antennae or satellite dishes? Do you want to add gargoyles or clear studs to simulate lights? Look at pictures of towers to see what you can incorporate.\\n2. Constructing a Complex Tower\\n2-1. Create a uniquely shaped base for your tower.\\nRather than making a square tower, create a different shape for the base. Take inspiration from real blueprints or create a shape entirely your own! Set up a base with blocks 2 studs wide to help you plan the entire structure.\\nYou can build complex towers like the Eiffel Tower by stacking blocks from the corner of a baseplate towards the center like a pyramid.\\n2-2. Incorporate doors and windows.\\nIf you want your building to have a more realistic look to it, it will need to leave room to add doors and windows. Leave these areas empty or use the specific pieces for them if you have them.\\nTake inspiration from real buildings. Most buildings alternate between columns and windows as you build them up.\\nYou can always skip adding these if you are only looking to build the tower for height.\\n2-3. Build the walls with different shaped pieces.\\nKeep adding blocks to the exterior wall, but use archways, sloped bricks, and different colored blocks to add variety. Your tower can look however you want to. As you experiment with pieces, support your tower as you attach them so it doesn’t fall over.\\nIndividual pieces can be purchased on the official LEGO online store.\\n2-4. Decorate your tower with your own finishing touches.\\nGive your tower overhangs or decor with whatever pieces you have leftover. If the tower is based on a real building, what details are you missing from your build?\\nGive your flower a flowered walkway up to the doors.\\nPut a lightning rod on top of the tower for extra height and decoration.\\nTips\\nWebsites like Brick Instructions (http://lego.brickinstructions.com/) or Let’s Build it Again! (http://letsbuilditagain.com/index.php) feature online versions of manuals from past sets that you can find easily on your computer.\\nLook up pictures of towers and skyscrapers for inspiration. That way, you can base your tower’s construction on real-life places.\\nThe larger you build the base of your tower, the more blocks you will have to use to complete it. Keep in mind how many blocks you have and how tall you want your tower.\\nWarnings\\nLegos are a choking hazard for young children and pets. Keep your pieces organized and off the floor.\\nAlways be aware of the sturdiness of your tower as you build it taller. The corners of LEGO bricks will hurt if a heavy chunk falls on you.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Towers are one of the basic buildings you can make out of LEGOs. It’s fun to see how tall you can make a tower before it collapses, but sometimes you want to complete one without it falling down. Whether you want to build something simple or complex, you can craft a tower that will scrape the skies!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building a Simple Tower\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a baseplate on a flat, sturdy surface.\", \"描述\": \"A LEGO baseplate is a flat piece covered in studs so you have a starting point for your tower. Lay the baseplate on a flat and sturdy surface like a large table so it does not move around once you start building on it.\\nBe careful if you are building on the floor. Sometimes, heavy footsteps are all it takes for a tower to topple.\\nBaseplates come in many colors, from green to blue to grey. If you want to build your tower on “cement,” use a grey baseplate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use square and rectangular bricks at least 2 studs wide.\", \"描述\": \"If the bricks are wider, your tower will be sturdier as it increases in size. 2x2 and 2x4 bricks work perfectly for building exterior walls for your tower, but you can experiment with any size you’d like.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build 4 walls that are the same length.\", \"描述\": \"Attach bricks to the baseplate to form a foundation for your tower. These will be your ground floor exterior walls, so outline how big you want your tower to be.\\nA smaller base will use fewer bricks, but the tower will be less sturdy the taller you make it. A larger base will use more bricks, but will make it sturdier as it grows taller.\\nUsing the same color for your whole tower will make it look uniform or you can mix and match bricks to have a multicolored building!\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stagger where the seams meet as you build taller.\", \"描述\": \"If you stack the same piece in line with the piece below it, you line up the seams. When the seams are lined up, the tower will be less sturdy and more likely to collapse when you make it taller.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid building interiors to save bricks.\", \"描述\": \"While it may be nice to have separate floors inside of your tower, it will only use more bricks in the end and cost more money. Not many people besides yourself will see inside of the tower. Use the extra pieces to build your tower taller.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Taper or expand the top of your tower.\", \"描述\": \"Many towers and skyscrapers start to taper as they reach the top. If you want to have a similar effect with your LEGO tower, attach one brick to another so 1 stud is exposed on the exterior.\\nIf you want your tower to look more like a castle, build the bricks outwards by leaving 1 stud exposed on the interior of the tower.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Give your tower some decorations.\", \"描述\": \"Once you’ve finished building the basics of your tower, you can get creative by adding your own touches. Make it unique!\\nDoes your tower have antennae or satellite dishes? Do you want to add gargoyles or clear studs to simulate lights? Look at pictures of towers to see what you can incorporate.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Constructing a Complex Tower\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a uniquely shaped base for your tower.\", \"描述\": \"Rather than making a square tower, create a different shape for the base. Take inspiration from real blueprints or create a shape entirely your own! Set up a base with blocks 2 studs wide to help you plan the entire structure.\\nYou can build complex towers like the Eiffel Tower by stacking blocks from the corner of a baseplate towards the center like a pyramid.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Incorporate doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"If you want your building to have a more realistic look to it, it will need to leave room to add doors and windows. Leave these areas empty or use the specific pieces for them if you have them.\\nTake inspiration from real buildings. Most buildings alternate between columns and windows as you build them up.\\nYou can always skip adding these if you are only looking to build the tower for height.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build the walls with different shaped pieces.\", \"描述\": \"Keep adding blocks to the exterior wall, but use archways, sloped bricks, and different colored blocks to add variety. Your tower can look however you want to. As you experiment with pieces, support your tower as you attach them so it doesn’t fall over.\\nIndividual pieces can be purchased on the official LEGO online store.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decorate your tower with your own finishing touches.\", \"描述\": \"Give your tower overhangs or decor with whatever pieces you have leftover. If the tower is based on a real building, what details are you missing from your build?\\nGive your flower a flowered walkway up to the doors.\\nPut a lightning rod on top of the tower for extra height and decoration.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Websites like Brick Instructions (http://lego.brickinstructions.com/) or Let’s Build it Again! (http://letsbuilditagain.com/index.php) feature online versions of manuals from past sets that you can find easily on your computer.\\n\", \"Look up pictures of towers and skyscrapers for inspiration. That way, you can base your tower’s construction on real-life places.\\n\", \"The larger you build the base of your tower, the more blocks you will have to use to complete it. Keep in mind how many blocks you have and how tall you want your tower.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Legos are a choking hazard for young children and pets. Keep your pieces organized and off the floor.\\n\", \"Always be aware of the sturdiness of your tower as you build it taller. The corners of LEGO bricks will hurt if a heavy chunk falls on you.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,403
How to Build a LEGO Truck
1. Building the Frame 1-1. Create the frame of your truck. Take your small car base piece and attach a 4 x 12 long piece to the back four raised studs of your base. This will form the bed and front cabin of your truck. 1-2. Add cabin features to the lowered section of your base. The recessed area of your small car base is where the cabin of your vehicle will be and where you LEGO driver will sit. Put the steering wheel and the seat in the dropped-down area. 1-3. Create the windshield of your LEGO vehicle. Start by taking both your square windows and stacking them, one on top of the other. Then attach these in front of the steering wheel to complete your windshield. 1-4. Fasten fenders to the front of your car. Your fenders, sometimes called a rounded mudguard, should be half circles attached to a flat piece or brick. Connect your fenders in front of the windshield, so the half circles point downward on either sides of the front of your truck. 2. Assembling the Front End 2-1. Add clear orange pieces to your front end piece. Your front end piece, also called the license plate holder, should have two studs on top and a contoured front stretching four studs wide and two studs tall. On the recessed studs on the rightmost and leftmost side of your front end add your 1 x 1 clear orange pieces. 2-2. Sandwich your clear orange pieces with a 2 x 4 plate. Your clear orange pieces should have mad the contoured front of your front end even, which will allow you to put on a flat 2 x 4 piece on top of it. Now the orange pieces should be sandwiched between the 2x 4 plate the the front end piece. 2-3. Include lights on the front of your truck. The clear, sloped, red 1 x 1 piece will be attached to the top left and right sides of your front end, in line with the orange transparent pieces you installed earlier. Place the sloped sides of these pieces to face off to each side of the truck. 2-4. Plate the very front of your front end. You should add the flat, smooth 1 x 2 piece between the sloped clear pieces. Then, below this, put the 1 x 2 flat piece with a middle circular stud directly below. 2-5. Attach your front end to the front of your truck. The front-most part of your base that you have already attached fenders to will be the landing zone for your front end. Attach your front end to the free two studs at the very front of your base. 2-6. Connect your hood and air intake to your front end. The hood piece should fit evenly, covering all free studs on the top of your front end. On top of the hood should be two free studs. On these, you should attach the 1 x 2 air intake piece. 3. Adding Features to the Cabin and Bed 3-1. Install doors and walls of the bed of your truck. The 1 x 1 circular attachment piece of your doors will have to go on the free stud closest to the front of your car to either side of the truck cabin. Then: Use 1 x 8 and 1 x 4 pieces evenly to the outside of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece to make you truck bed walls. Leave one row of studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece for the hitch and license plate. 3-2. Create your rear end. Much like you did with the front end, you will use your license plate holder piece to create the back of your truck. On the left and right recessed studs on the top four-across row of your rear end, add red sloped pieces, slopes facing outward. Between these, attach your license plate. 3-3. Add rear accents to your rear end. This includes a flat, yellow 1 x 4 piece with black diagonal slashes on it. This will be your read bumper. Attach it so that it stretches across the bottom of your license plate holder piece. 3-4. Attach your rear end to your truck. On the free four studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece, connect your rear end. Make sure the edges meet with the walls of the bed of your truck and the rear end piece is firmly fastened. 4. Roofing Your Vehicle 4-1. Roof the cabin of your truck and the front-most part of the bed. Your flat, 4 x 4 piece should completely cover the top of the cabin of your vehicle. Then, stretching across the gap made by the 2 x 8 pieces: Attach two 2 x 4 blocks, on on top the other, so that both are flat against the back wall of your cabin. Attach two 1 x 4 pieces behind the 2 x 4 blocks. This should create an flat surface that is level with the roof of your cabin. 4-2. Add a unifying roof piece and a sloped window for effect. To join your cabin and bed together firmly, you should connect both by attaching your 4 x 8 piece to the top. A single row of studs should hang free the hood/window area of your truck. Attach your sloped window atop the 4 x 8 on the front-most studs. 4-3. Fasten your hood cover and railings for the bed. The hood cover should go in the front-center of the 4 x 8 piece for the most realistic effect. Use 1 x 8 smooth pieces on the top of the walls of the bed of your truck. Leave two free studs on the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin. 5. Attaching Your Truck's Wheels 5-1. Construct your front wheels. On a 2 x 4 axle piece, first attach a 2 x 2 block. On top of this block, add a 2 x 2 flat piece, and atop that add a 2 x 2 spinning piece. This will allow the front wheels of your car can turn left and right. Now you can press your wheels onto the circular axles on the outside of the 2 x 4 axle piece. 5-2. Attach the wheel assembly of your car to the front end. Make sure the studs of your spinning piece is lined up like a normal block to make sure its studs attach to the bottom of your front end. Then: Attach the wheel assembly so the wheels stick out under the half circles of the fenders. 5-3. Construct your rear wheel assembly with half axles. You're going to need to fashion two 2 x 2 half axles into a single piece to give the rear wheels of your truck more width. Use a 2 x 2 piece attached to the underside of the two half axles to create one 2 x 4 axle. 5-4. Give your rear wheels enough clearance from the bed of the truck. You can do this by first adding a 2 x 4 block to the top of your rear axle. Then on the 2 x 4 block, add two 2 x 2 pieces, or a single 2 x 4 piece, so that all piece form flat sides. 5-5. Attach your rear tire assembly and add wheels to the axles. Now you can attach your rear wheel assembly toward the back of your truck. Then push your wheels onto the rear axle to finish the assembly. Attach your wheels so the back edge of your connecting block is beneath the fourth stud from the rear of the bed of your truck. You might also experiment with rear wheel placement to find what looks best for you. Do not attach your wheel assembly to the very back of the underside of the bed of your truck; you will need some space to attach the hitch of your truck. 6. Adding Finishing Touches 6-1. Create a hitch for the rear of your truck. Your hitch begins with a 2 x 6 flat piece. Take this 2 x 6 and add to the back-most two studs a 1 x 2 hitch piece. The hitch piece should have a round, upward facing part, which is the hitch. 6-2. Link your hitch by pressing its studs into the underside of the bed. You should allow your hitch to stick out from the back of your truck about three studs. This will make your truck hitch look more realistic. 6-3. Close off the empty space between the bed and cabin. The bed of your truck closest to the cabin still has a slight gap. Close this off to complete the bed of your truck. Do this by attaching two 1 x 2 pieces on top of each other. Then: Attach your 1 x 2 pieces between the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin. 6-4. Make a step for your cabin. Take your 2 x 4 sloped piece and on top of it add a flat 2 x 4 piece so that the rear four studs of your flat piece hang off the back of your sloped piece. Then put a 1 x 1 piece with a circular stud on the side on the rear corner of your 2 x 4 flat where it attaches to the sloped piece. The 1 x 1 piece with a circular side stud is where your LEGO truck can be filled up with fuel. 6-5. Add your cabin step and a driver. The free hanging back four studs of your flat 2 x 4 piece should be pressed into the bottom of your car base beneath the driver's side door. Then, open the door and put a LEGO figurine inside. It's time to go truckin'! Warnings Be careful you don't lose any pieces while constructing your LEGO truck. Small pieces can be especially painful when stepped on.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Frame\\n1-1. Create the frame of your truck.\\nTake your small car base piece and attach a 4 x 12 long piece to the back four raised studs of your base. This will form the bed and front cabin of your truck.\\n1-2. Add cabin features to the lowered section of your base.\\nThe recessed area of your small car base is where the cabin of your vehicle will be and where you LEGO driver will sit. Put the steering wheel and the seat in the dropped-down area.\\n1-3. Create the windshield of your LEGO vehicle.\\nStart by taking both your square windows and stacking them, one on top of the other. Then attach these in front of the steering wheel to complete your windshield.\\n1-4. Fasten fenders to the front of your car.\\nYour fenders, sometimes called a rounded mudguard, should be half circles attached to a flat piece or brick. Connect your fenders in front of the windshield, so the half circles point downward on either sides of the front of your truck.\\n2. Assembling the Front End\\n2-1. Add clear orange pieces to your front end piece.\\nYour front end piece, also called the license plate holder, should have two studs on top and a contoured front stretching four studs wide and two studs tall. On the recessed studs on the rightmost and leftmost side of your front end add your 1 x 1 clear orange pieces.\\n2-2. Sandwich your clear orange pieces with a 2 x 4 plate.\\nYour clear orange pieces should have mad the contoured front of your front end even, which will allow you to put on a flat 2 x 4 piece on top of it. \\nNow the orange pieces should be sandwiched between the 2x 4 plate the the front end piece.\\n2-3. Include lights on the front of your truck.\\nThe clear, sloped, red 1 x 1 piece will be attached to the top left and right sides of your front end, in line with the orange transparent pieces you installed earlier. Place the sloped sides of these pieces to face off to each side of the truck.\\n2-4. Plate the very front of your front end.\\nYou should add the flat, smooth 1 x 2 piece between the sloped clear pieces. Then, below this, put the 1 x 2 flat piece with a middle circular stud directly below.\\n2-5. Attach your front end to the front of your truck.\\nThe front-most part of your base that you have already attached fenders to will be the landing zone for your front end. Attach your front end to the free two studs at the very front of your base.\\n2-6. Connect your hood and air intake to your front end.\\nThe hood piece should fit evenly, covering all free studs on the top of your front end. On top of the hood should be two free studs. On these, you should attach the 1 x 2 air intake piece.\\n3. Adding Features to the Cabin and Bed\\n3-1. Install doors and walls of the bed of your truck.\\nThe 1 x 1 circular attachment piece of your doors will have to go on the free stud closest to the front of your car to either side of the truck cabin. Then:\\nUse 1 x 8 and 1 x 4 pieces evenly to the outside of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece to make you truck bed walls.\\nLeave one row of studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece for the hitch and license plate.\\n3-2. Create your rear end.\\nMuch like you did with the front end, you will use your license plate holder piece to create the back of your truck. On the left and right recessed studs on the top four-across row of your rear end, add red sloped pieces, slopes facing outward. Between these, attach your license plate.\\n3-3. Add rear accents to your rear end.\\nThis includes a flat, yellow 1 x 4 piece with black diagonal slashes on it. This will be your read bumper. Attach it so that it stretches across the bottom of your license plate holder piece.\\n3-4. Attach your rear end to your truck.\\nOn the free four studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece, connect your rear end. Make sure the edges meet with the walls of the bed of your truck and the rear end piece is firmly fastened.\\n4. Roofing Your Vehicle\\n4-1. Roof the cabin of your truck and the front-most part of the bed.\\nYour flat, 4 x 4 piece should completely cover the top of the cabin of your vehicle. Then, stretching across the gap made by the 2 x 8 pieces:\\nAttach two 2 x 4 blocks, on on top the other, so that both are flat against the back wall of your cabin.\\nAttach two 1 x 4 pieces behind the 2 x 4 blocks.\\nThis should create an flat surface that is level with the roof of your cabin.\\n4-2. Add a unifying roof piece and a sloped window for effect.\\nTo join your cabin and bed together firmly, you should connect both by attaching your 4 x 8 piece to the top. A single row of studs should hang free the hood/window area of your truck.\\nAttach your sloped window atop the 4 x 8 on the front-most studs.\\n4-3. Fasten your hood cover and railings for the bed.\\nThe hood cover should go in the front-center of the 4 x 8 piece for the most realistic effect. Use 1 x 8 smooth pieces on the top of the walls of the bed of your truck.\\nLeave two free studs on the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin.\\n5. Attaching Your Truck's Wheels\\n5-1. Construct your front wheels.\\nOn a 2 x 4 axle piece, first attach a 2 x 2 block. On top of this block, add a 2 x 2 flat piece, and atop that add a 2 x 2 spinning piece. This will allow the front wheels of your car can turn left and right. Now you can press your wheels onto the circular axles on the outside of the 2 x 4 axle piece.\\n5-2. Attach the wheel assembly of your car to the front end.\\nMake sure the studs of your spinning piece is lined up like a normal block to make sure its studs attach to the bottom of your front end. Then:\\nAttach the wheel assembly so the wheels stick out under the half circles of the fenders.\\n5-3. Construct your rear wheel assembly with half axles.\\nYou're going to need to fashion two 2 x 2 half axles into a single piece to give the rear wheels of your truck more width. Use a 2 x 2 piece attached to the underside of the two half axles to create one 2 x 4 axle.\\n5-4. Give your rear wheels enough clearance from the bed of the truck.\\nYou can do this by first adding a 2 x 4 block to the top of your rear axle. Then on the 2 x 4 block, add two 2 x 2 pieces, or a single 2 x 4 piece, so that all piece form flat sides.\\n5-5. Attach your rear tire assembly and add wheels to the axles.\\nNow you can attach your rear wheel assembly toward the back of your truck. Then push your wheels onto the rear axle to finish the assembly.\\nAttach your wheels so the back edge of your connecting block is beneath the fourth stud from the rear of the bed of your truck.\\nYou might also experiment with rear wheel placement to find what looks best for you.\\nDo not attach your wheel assembly to the very back of the underside of the bed of your truck; you will need some space to attach the hitch of your truck.\\n6. Adding Finishing Touches\\n6-1. Create a hitch for the rear of your truck.\\nYour hitch begins with a 2 x 6 flat piece. Take this 2 x 6 and add to the back-most two studs a 1 x 2 hitch piece. The hitch piece should have a round, upward facing part, which is the hitch.\\n6-2. Link your hitch by pressing its studs into the underside of the bed.\\nYou should allow your hitch to stick out from the back of your truck about three studs. This will make your truck hitch look more realistic.\\n6-3. Close off the empty space between the bed and cabin.\\nThe bed of your truck closest to the cabin still has a slight gap. Close this off to complete the bed of your truck. Do this by attaching two 1 x 2 pieces on top of each other. Then:\\nAttach your 1 x 2 pieces between the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin.\\n6-4. Make a step for your cabin.\\nTake your 2 x 4 sloped piece and on top of it add a flat 2 x 4 piece so that the rear four studs of your flat piece hang off the back of your sloped piece. Then put a 1 x 1 piece with a circular stud on the side on the rear corner of your 2 x 4 flat where it attaches to the sloped piece.\\nThe 1 x 1 piece with a circular side stud is where your LEGO truck can be filled up with fuel.\\n6-5. Add your cabin step and a driver.\\nThe free hanging back four studs of your flat 2 x 4 piece should be pressed into the bottom of your car base beneath the driver's side door. Then, open the door and put a LEGO figurine inside. It's time to go truckin'!\\nWarnings\\nBe careful you don't lose any pieces while constructing your LEGO truck. Small pieces can be especially painful when stepped on.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"With enough LEGOs and the right pieces, if you can imagine a design, you can usually build it! But getting from a bunch of loose LEGOs to a cool finished model can be difficult without some guidance. If your goal is to build a truck with your LEGOs, all you need is the right parts and attention to detail. Before long, you'll have a cool LEGO truck of your own.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create the frame of your truck.\", \"描述\": \"Take your small car base piece and attach a 4 x 12 long piece to the back four raised studs of your base. This will form the bed and front cabin of your truck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add cabin features to the lowered section of your base.\", \"描述\": \"The recessed area of your small car base is where the cabin of your vehicle will be and where you LEGO driver will sit. Put the steering wheel and the seat in the dropped-down area.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Create the windshield of your LEGO vehicle.\", \"描述\": \"Start by taking both your square windows and stacking them, one on top of the other. Then attach these in front of the steering wheel to complete your windshield.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fasten fenders to the front of your car.\", \"描述\": \"Your fenders, sometimes called a rounded mudguard, should be half circles attached to a flat piece or brick. Connect your fenders in front of the windshield, so the half circles point downward on either sides of the front of your truck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the Front End\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add clear orange pieces to your front end piece.\", \"描述\": \"Your front end piece, also called the license plate holder, should have two studs on top and a contoured front stretching four studs wide and two studs tall. On the recessed studs on the rightmost and leftmost side of your front end add your 1 x 1 clear orange pieces.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sandwich your clear orange pieces with a 2 x 4 plate.\", \"描述\": \"Your clear orange pieces should have mad the contoured front of your front end even, which will allow you to put on a flat 2 x 4 piece on top of it. \\nNow the orange pieces should be sandwiched between the 2x 4 plate the the front end piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Include lights on the front of your truck.\", \"描述\": \"The clear, sloped, red 1 x 1 piece will be attached to the top left and right sides of your front end, in line with the orange transparent pieces you installed earlier. Place the sloped sides of these pieces to face off to each side of the truck.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plate the very front of your front end.\", \"描述\": \"You should add the flat, smooth 1 x 2 piece between the sloped clear pieces. Then, below this, put the 1 x 2 flat piece with a middle circular stud directly below.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach your front end to the front of your truck.\", \"描述\": \"The front-most part of your base that you have already attached fenders to will be the landing zone for your front end. Attach your front end to the free two studs at the very front of your base.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Connect your hood and air intake to your front end.\", \"描述\": \"The hood piece should fit evenly, covering all free studs on the top of your front end. On top of the hood should be two free studs. On these, you should attach the 1 x 2 air intake piece.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Adding Features to the Cabin and Bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Install doors and walls of the bed of your truck.\", \"描述\": \"The 1 x 1 circular attachment piece of your doors will have to go on the free stud closest to the front of your car to either side of the truck cabin. Then:\\nUse 1 x 8 and 1 x 4 pieces evenly to the outside of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece to make you truck bed walls.\\nLeave one row of studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece for the hitch and license plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Create your rear end.\", \"描述\": \"Much like you did with the front end, you will use your license plate holder piece to create the back of your truck. On the left and right recessed studs on the top four-across row of your rear end, add red sloped pieces, slopes facing outward. Between these, attach your license plate.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add rear accents to your rear end.\", \"描述\": \"This includes a flat, yellow 1 x 4 piece with black diagonal slashes on it. This will be your read bumper. Attach it so that it stretches across the bottom of your license plate holder piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach your rear end to your truck.\", \"描述\": \"On the free four studs at the very back of your 4 x 12 truck bed piece, connect your rear end. Make sure the edges meet with the walls of the bed of your truck and the rear end piece is firmly fastened.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Roofing Your Vehicle\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Roof the cabin of your truck and the front-most part of the bed.\", \"描述\": \"Your flat, 4 x 4 piece should completely cover the top of the cabin of your vehicle. Then, stretching across the gap made by the 2 x 8 pieces:\\nAttach two 2 x 4 blocks, on on top the other, so that both are flat against the back wall of your cabin.\\nAttach two 1 x 4 pieces behind the 2 x 4 blocks.\\nThis should create an flat surface that is level with the roof of your cabin.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Add a unifying roof piece and a sloped window for effect.\", \"描述\": \"To join your cabin and bed together firmly, you should connect both by attaching your 4 x 8 piece to the top. A single row of studs should hang free the hood/window area of your truck.\\nAttach your sloped window atop the 4 x 8 on the front-most studs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fasten your hood cover and railings for the bed.\", \"描述\": \"The hood cover should go in the front-center of the 4 x 8 piece for the most realistic effect. Use 1 x 8 smooth pieces on the top of the walls of the bed of your truck.\\nLeave two free studs on the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attaching Your Truck's Wheels\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Construct your front wheels.\", \"描述\": \"On a 2 x 4 axle piece, first attach a 2 x 2 block. On top of this block, add a 2 x 2 flat piece, and atop that add a 2 x 2 spinning piece. This will allow the front wheels of your car can turn left and right. Now you can press your wheels onto the circular axles on the outside of the 2 x 4 axle piece.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the wheel assembly of your car to the front end.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure the studs of your spinning piece is lined up like a normal block to make sure its studs attach to the bottom of your front end. Then:\\nAttach the wheel assembly so the wheels stick out under the half circles of the fenders.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Construct your rear wheel assembly with half axles.\", \"描述\": \"You're going to need to fashion two 2 x 2 half axles into a single piece to give the rear wheels of your truck more width. Use a 2 x 2 piece attached to the underside of the two half axles to create one 2 x 4 axle.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Give your rear wheels enough clearance from the bed of the truck.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this by first adding a 2 x 4 block to the top of your rear axle. Then on the 2 x 4 block, add two 2 x 2 pieces, or a single 2 x 4 piece, so that all piece form flat sides.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach your rear tire assembly and add wheels to the axles.\", \"描述\": \"Now you can attach your rear wheel assembly toward the back of your truck. Then push your wheels onto the rear axle to finish the assembly.\\nAttach your wheels so the back edge of your connecting block is beneath the fourth stud from the rear of the bed of your truck.\\nYou might also experiment with rear wheel placement to find what looks best for you.\\nDo not attach your wheel assembly to the very back of the underside of the bed of your truck; you will need some space to attach the hitch of your truck.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Adding Finishing Touches\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create a hitch for the rear of your truck.\", \"描述\": \"Your hitch begins with a 2 x 6 flat piece. Take this 2 x 6 and add to the back-most two studs a 1 x 2 hitch piece. The hitch piece should have a round, upward facing part, which is the hitch.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Link your hitch by pressing its studs into the underside of the bed.\", \"描述\": \"You should allow your hitch to stick out from the back of your truck about three studs. This will make your truck hitch look more realistic.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Close off the empty space between the bed and cabin.\", \"描述\": \"The bed of your truck closest to the cabin still has a slight gap. Close this off to complete the bed of your truck. Do this by attaching two 1 x 2 pieces on top of each other. Then:\\nAttach your 1 x 2 pieces between the walls of the bed of your truck closest to the cabin.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make a step for your cabin.\", \"描述\": \"Take your 2 x 4 sloped piece and on top of it add a flat 2 x 4 piece so that the rear four studs of your flat piece hang off the back of your sloped piece. Then put a 1 x 1 piece with a circular stud on the side on the rear corner of your 2 x 4 flat where it attaches to the sloped piece.\\nThe 1 x 1 piece with a circular side stud is where your LEGO truck can be filled up with fuel.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add your cabin step and a driver.\", \"描述\": \"The free hanging back four studs of your flat 2 x 4 piece should be pressed into the bottom of your car base beneath the driver's side door. Then, open the door and put a LEGO figurine inside. It's time to go truckin'!\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful you don't lose any pieces while constructing your LEGO truck. Small pieces can be especially painful when stepped on.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,404
How to Build a Ladybug House
1. Assembling the House 1-1. Get pieces of wood or other material to build the house. Wood is the way to go when building a home that will last the ladybugs many seasons. Cut a cedar or pine board with a table saw or get it pre-cut at a home improvement store. Plan on adjusting the length of each piece according to how big you want the ladybug house to be. For an average square-shaped house, cut 3 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 5 in (13 cm) tall. These will be for the front, back, and bottom panels. Cut 2 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) tall for the sides. Finish the house with a top panel 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 4 in (10 cm) tall. For easier houses, make use of a sturdy piece of cardboard. Thick card stock works well. Alternatively, get an old shoebox or a clay pot to skip the construction work. 1-2. Sand the wood with 180-grit sandpaper to remove rough edges. Work on the wood pieces 1 at a time. While maintaining gentle pressure, slowly rub the sandpaper against the wood. Go over the entirety of each piece of wood until they all look even and feel smooth to the touch. When you’re finished, wipe the wood with a soft cloth to remove any dust. Wear a dust mask when sanding to avoid breathing in wood dust. Work in a ventilated area and consider using a vacuum cleaner to capture loose dust. Use only fine-grit sandpaper. Anything coarser than 180-grit increases the chances of leaving big scratches on the wood. 1-3. Nail the side panels to the back panel. Choose 1 of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels to be the back end of the house. Set the side panels against it. Make sure the side panels are flush with the longer end of the back panel. Then, nail them in place with 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm)-long finishing nails set in each corner. You will need 4 nails total to connect these panels. Position the nails about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edges of the boards to keep them strong. Another way to connect the panels is with a hot glue gun or with wood glue. The house will not be as sturdy, but it will still be useable. 1-4. Connect the front panel to the house’s side panels. Get another of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels and position it opposite from the back panel. Line up the panel’s longer edges so they are flush with the side panels. Then, secure the front panel in place with another set of 4 nails. 1-5. Complete the box by nailing the bottom panel to a side. Tip the box over so 1 of the open ends faces upwards. It doesn’t matter which of the open ends you choose, so pick whatever side you like best as the bottom. Set the larger of the 2 remaining panel on top of the house, lining up the edges so they’re flush with the other panels. Then, use 4 more nails to fasten the panels together. Place the nails in the panel’s corners. Leave 1 in (2.5 cm) of space from the edges of the box as usual. 1-6. Place a cover on the house if you desire to keep out bigger creatures. To give the ladybugs some privacy, get hinge kits with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long screws. Position the hinges on the outer edge of the back panel. Rest the hinges on top of the back panel, screwing them in place with an electric screwdriver. Screw the other end of the hinges to the bottom edge of the top panel. You will need 4 screws for each hinge. Make sure the hinges are positioned so the house’s lid swings outwards. Keeping the box open is possible, but sometimes birds and squirrels try to get inside. The lid also helps keep out water. 1-7. Drill holes in the sides of the house if you need a way to let in ladybugs. Now the ladybugs need a way to get in and out of the house. An easy way to do this is with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) drill bit. Use the drill bit on the front and side panels, making 2 to 3 holes per side. Keep the holes relatively small so bigger bugs like bees have a harder time getting in. Instead of making round holes, try cutting thin slats into the house. Slats are big enough for ladybugs but too small for bees and butterflies. Depending on how you build your house, you may not need the holes. If you leave the house open, for example, the holes are unnecessary. 1-8. Paint and decorate the outside of the house if you desire. Get a can of water-resistant latex paint in your favorite color, then use a big brush to color the house. Ladybugs respond to bright colors like white, yellow, and light blue. To make your house stand out, also consider painting it red and black for some ladybug fashion. Use decorations such as stickers to make the house unique and stand out. For example, use bright stickers in the shape of flowers to attract more ladybugs, or use round, black stickers for a house with ladybug spots. Work in a ventilated area and wear a safety mask while painting, especially if you choose to use spray paint instead of canned paint. Priming a new house isn’t necessary for fresh wood, especially if you sanded it first. If you ever need to repaint the house, plan on priming it first to hide the old layer of paint. 2. Filling the Inside Part of the House 2-1. Place a stick or wood block in the house to create compartments. Cut a piece of scrap wood about 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) tall, for instance, and fit it inside the house. Most ladybugs congregate together, but some like to crawl off on their own. The wood creates a divider that gives the ladybugs more surfaces to crawl around on. Make sure the scrap block or stick you choose fits inside the house, dividing the space up into separate little “rooms” for shy ladybugs. Bamboo sticks are a great way to give ladybugs lot of hiding spots. Order some bamboo online, then cut the sticks into segments that fit inside the house. Position the sticks so the cut end faces the house’s entrance. 2-2. Place raisins and other sweet foods inside the house. Although ladybugs mostly live on pests, they enjoy sugar from time to time. Set a couple of raisins or an apple slice in your ladybug house for the new guests. To make the raisins bigger and last longer, soak them in water for 5 minutes, dry them gently with a paper towel, then cut them in half. Ladybugs also love sugar water. Stir some sugar into a bowl of water, about 1 part sugar to 10 parts water. Then, soak the water up with a sponge. Move the sponge into the house for the ladybugs. 2-3. Add a water source like a cotton ball dampened in fresh water. Ladybugs, especially younger ones, need a little bit of clean water to survive. Soaking a cotton ball or paper towel in clean water is a safe way to keep the house supplied. Replace it once it begins to dry out. Alternatively, make your own pool. For example, shape tin foil or cut up a Styrofoam plate into a shallow pool about 5 in (13 cm) wide. Keep pools very shallow in case the ladybugs fall into it. Even small amount of water can be dangerous for them. For that reason, using bottle caps isn’t recommended. If you have bamboo or other plants in them, lightly spray the house with a misting bottle. That way, the ladybugs have plenty of water without needing a pool. 3. Hanging and Maintaining the House 3-1. Set the house in a secure spot out of the rain. Find a spot to set the house, such as on a sturdy tree branch. Choose a covered spot with plenty of leaves, a roof, or other protections that will keep water from entering the house. Make sure the house won’t get blown over by the wind. The best spot for the house is up in the air, on a branch, wall, or a similar surface. That way, bugs on the ground have a harder time reaching it. To secure the house, hang it on a branch or a pole with a hook. Tie it in place with a strong wire. Drill small holes as needed to thread a hanging wire through the house. 3-2. Place ladybug houses near gardens to get more visitors. Ladybugs eat pests like aphids and mites, which live on garden plants. If you keep your house as close to a garden as possible, you have a better chance of attracting ladybugs to it. They may stop by as they fly to and from the garden. Rose bushes are popular with aphids. They also like vegetable plants, such as lettuce and broccoli. Keep the ladybug house near these plants to increase the chances of attracting visitors. Ladybugs also eat pollen from some flowers and herbs. Hang the ladybug house as a shelter near dill, cilantro, geraniums, cosmos, and other garden plants. 3-3. Replace the food and water sources every week. Check the house often to make sure the ladybugs are happy and healthy. When the old food starts to spoil, swap it out for something fresh. Also, refill the water source or mist the house when it dries out so the ladybugs don’t leave. For example, replace raisins when they start smelling sour or become moldy. Apple slices will turn soft and brown as they spoil. Tips Sometimes ladybugs don’t come to the house. Do your best to attract them with sugary food and water. If they don’t show up at first, keep trying! Customize your house! There are many ways to build a house you like, such as making the house longer or making walls out of stones and other material. Look at some store-bought houses online for inspiration. For a smaller house, cut a bamboo stick in half and hang it on a wire. It’s a simple way to provide accessible shelter for ladybugs. Warnings Working around wood dust and paint is unsafe without proper precautions. Wear a dust mask and work in a ventilated area away from other people. Keep children away from woodworking and paint supplies. For a more child-friendly option, make a less permanent house out of cardboard and tape.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:44", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Assembling the House\\n1-1. Get pieces of wood or other material to build the house.\\nWood is the way to go when building a home that will last the ladybugs many seasons. Cut a cedar or pine board with a table saw or get it pre-cut at a home improvement store. Plan on adjusting the length of each piece according to how big you want the ladybug house to be.\\nFor an average square-shaped house, cut 3 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 5 in (13 cm) tall. These will be for the front, back, and bottom panels.\\nCut 2 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) tall for the sides.\\nFinish the house with a top panel 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 4 in (10 cm) tall.\\nFor easier houses, make use of a sturdy piece of cardboard. Thick card stock works well. Alternatively, get an old shoebox or a clay pot to skip the construction work.\\n1-2. Sand the wood with 180-grit sandpaper to remove rough edges.\\nWork on the wood pieces 1 at a time. While maintaining gentle pressure, slowly rub the sandpaper against the wood. Go over the entirety of each piece of wood until they all look even and feel smooth to the touch. When you’re finished, wipe the wood with a soft cloth to remove any dust.\\nWear a dust mask when sanding to avoid breathing in wood dust. Work in a ventilated area and consider using a vacuum cleaner to capture loose dust.\\nUse only fine-grit sandpaper. Anything coarser than 180-grit increases the chances of leaving big scratches on the wood.\\n1-3. Nail the side panels to the back panel.\\nChoose 1 of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels to be the back end of the house. Set the side panels against it. Make sure the side panels are flush with the longer end of the back panel. Then, nail them in place with 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm)-long finishing nails set in each corner.\\nYou will need 4 nails total to connect these panels. Position the nails about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edges of the boards to keep them strong.\\nAnother way to connect the panels is with a hot glue gun or with wood glue. The house will not be as sturdy, but it will still be useable.\\n1-4. Connect the front panel to the house’s side panels.\\nGet another of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels and position it opposite from the back panel. Line up the panel’s longer edges so they are flush with the side panels. Then, secure the front panel in place with another set of 4 nails.\\n1-5. Complete the box by nailing the bottom panel to a side.\\nTip the box over so 1 of the open ends faces upwards. It doesn’t matter which of the open ends you choose, so pick whatever side you like best as the bottom. Set the larger of the 2 remaining panel on top of the house, lining up the edges so they’re flush with the other panels. Then, use 4 more nails to fasten the panels together.\\nPlace the nails in the panel’s corners. Leave 1 in (2.5 cm) of space from the edges of the box as usual.\\n1-6. Place a cover on the house if you desire to keep out bigger creatures.\\nTo give the ladybugs some privacy, get hinge kits with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long screws. Position the hinges on the outer edge of the back panel. Rest the hinges on top of the back panel, screwing them in place with an electric screwdriver. Screw the other end of the hinges to the bottom edge of the top panel.\\nYou will need 4 screws for each hinge. Make sure the hinges are positioned so the house’s lid swings outwards.\\nKeeping the box open is possible, but sometimes birds and squirrels try to get inside. The lid also helps keep out water.\\n1-7. Drill holes in the sides of the house if you need a way to let in ladybugs.\\nNow the ladybugs need a way to get in and out of the house. An easy way to do this is with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) drill bit. Use the drill bit on the front and side panels, making 2 to 3 holes per side. Keep the holes relatively small so bigger bugs like bees have a harder time getting in.\\nInstead of making round holes, try cutting thin slats into the house. Slats are big enough for ladybugs but too small for bees and butterflies.\\nDepending on how you build your house, you may not need the holes. If you leave the house open, for example, the holes are unnecessary.\\n1-8. Paint and decorate the outside of the house if you desire.\\nGet a can of water-resistant latex paint in your favorite color, then use a big brush to color the house. Ladybugs respond to bright colors like white, yellow, and light blue. To make your house stand out, also consider painting it red and black for some ladybug fashion.\\nUse decorations such as stickers to make the house unique and stand out. For example, use bright stickers in the shape of flowers to attract more ladybugs, or use round, black stickers for a house with ladybug spots.\\nWork in a ventilated area and wear a safety mask while painting, especially if you choose to use spray paint instead of canned paint.\\nPriming a new house isn’t necessary for fresh wood, especially if you sanded it first. If you ever need to repaint the house, plan on priming it first to hide the old layer of paint.\\n2. Filling the Inside Part of the House\\n2-1. Place a stick or wood block in the house to create compartments.\\nCut a piece of scrap wood about 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) tall, for instance, and fit it inside the house. Most ladybugs congregate together, but some like to crawl off on their own. The wood creates a divider that gives the ladybugs more surfaces to crawl around on.\\nMake sure the scrap block or stick you choose fits inside the house, dividing the space up into separate little “rooms” for shy ladybugs.\\nBamboo sticks are a great way to give ladybugs lot of hiding spots. Order some bamboo online, then cut the sticks into segments that fit inside the house. Position the sticks so the cut end faces the house’s entrance.\\n2-2. Place raisins and other sweet foods inside the house.\\nAlthough ladybugs mostly live on pests, they enjoy sugar from time to time. Set a couple of raisins or an apple slice in your ladybug house for the new guests. To make the raisins bigger and last longer, soak them in water for 5 minutes, dry them gently with a paper towel, then cut them in half.\\nLadybugs also love sugar water. Stir some sugar into a bowl of water, about 1 part sugar to 10 parts water. Then, soak the water up with a sponge. Move the sponge into the house for the ladybugs.\\n2-3. Add a water source like a cotton ball dampened in fresh water.\\nLadybugs, especially younger ones, need a little bit of clean water to survive. Soaking a cotton ball or paper towel in clean water is a safe way to keep the house supplied. Replace it once it begins to dry out.\\nAlternatively, make your own pool. For example, shape tin foil or cut up a Styrofoam plate into a shallow pool about 5 in (13 cm) wide.\\nKeep pools very shallow in case the ladybugs fall into it. Even small amount of water can be dangerous for them. For that reason, using bottle caps isn’t recommended.\\nIf you have bamboo or other plants in them, lightly spray the house with a misting bottle. That way, the ladybugs have plenty of water without needing a pool.\\n3. Hanging and Maintaining the House\\n3-1. Set the house in a secure spot out of the rain.\\nFind a spot to set the house, such as on a sturdy tree branch. Choose a covered spot with plenty of leaves, a roof, or other protections that will keep water from entering the house. Make sure the house won’t get blown over by the wind.\\nThe best spot for the house is up in the air, on a branch, wall, or a similar surface. That way, bugs on the ground have a harder time reaching it.\\nTo secure the house, hang it on a branch or a pole with a hook. Tie it in place with a strong wire. Drill small holes as needed to thread a hanging wire through the house.\\n3-2. Place ladybug houses near gardens to get more visitors.\\nLadybugs eat pests like aphids and mites, which live on garden plants. If you keep your house as close to a garden as possible, you have a better chance of attracting ladybugs to it. They may stop by as they fly to and from the garden.\\nRose bushes are popular with aphids. They also like vegetable plants, such as lettuce and broccoli. Keep the ladybug house near these plants to increase the chances of attracting visitors.\\nLadybugs also eat pollen from some flowers and herbs. Hang the ladybug house as a shelter near dill, cilantro, geraniums, cosmos, and other garden plants.\\n3-3. Replace the food and water sources every week.\\nCheck the house often to make sure the ladybugs are happy and healthy. When the old food starts to spoil, swap it out for something fresh. Also, refill the water source or mist the house when it dries out so the ladybugs don’t leave.\\nFor example, replace raisins when they start smelling sour or become moldy. Apple slices will turn soft and brown as they spoil.\\nTips\\nSometimes ladybugs don’t come to the house. Do your best to attract them with sugary food and water. If they don’t show up at first, keep trying!\\nCustomize your house! There are many ways to build a house you like, such as making the house longer or making walls out of stones and other material. Look at some store-bought houses online for inspiration.\\nFor a smaller house, cut a bamboo stick in half and hang it on a wire. It’s a simple way to provide accessible shelter for ladybugs.\\nWarnings\\nWorking around wood dust and paint is unsafe without proper precautions. Wear a dust mask and work in a ventilated area away from other people.\\nKeep children away from woodworking and paint supplies. For a more child-friendly option, make a less permanent house out of cardboard and tape.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"If you love those little red bugs that crawl across your hand in the spring, a ladybug house is the perfect project for your yard. Not only are they beautiful, but ladybugs eat garden pests like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. Make a simple house by nailing some pieces of wood together, then fill it with a little bit of sugary food and water to entice some cute visitors to crawl on in.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Assembling the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get pieces of wood or other material to build the house.\", \"描述\": \"Wood is the way to go when building a home that will last the ladybugs many seasons. Cut a cedar or pine board with a table saw or get it pre-cut at a home improvement store. Plan on adjusting the length of each piece according to how big you want the ladybug house to be.\\nFor an average square-shaped house, cut 3 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 5 in (13 cm) tall. These will be for the front, back, and bottom panels.\\nCut 2 panels 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 2 ⁄2 in (6.4 cm) tall for the sides.\\nFinish the house with a top panel 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 4 in (10 cm) tall.\\nFor easier houses, make use of a sturdy piece of cardboard. Thick card stock works well. Alternatively, get an old shoebox or a clay pot to skip the construction work.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand the wood with 180-grit sandpaper to remove rough edges.\", \"描述\": \"Work on the wood pieces 1 at a time. While maintaining gentle pressure, slowly rub the sandpaper against the wood. Go over the entirety of each piece of wood until they all look even and feel smooth to the touch. When you’re finished, wipe the wood with a soft cloth to remove any dust.\\nWear a dust mask when sanding to avoid breathing in wood dust. Work in a ventilated area and consider using a vacuum cleaner to capture loose dust.\\nUse only fine-grit sandpaper. Anything coarser than 180-grit increases the chances of leaving big scratches on the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Nail the side panels to the back panel.\", \"描述\": \"Choose 1 of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels to be the back end of the house. Set the side panels against it. Make sure the side panels are flush with the longer end of the back panel. Then, nail them in place with 3 ⁄2 in (8.9 cm)-long finishing nails set in each corner.\\nYou will need 4 nails total to connect these panels. Position the nails about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the edges of the boards to keep them strong.\\nAnother way to connect the panels is with a hot glue gun or with wood glue. The house will not be as sturdy, but it will still be useable.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Connect the front panel to the house’s side panels.\", \"描述\": \"Get another of the 5 ⁄2 in × 5 in (14 cm × 13 cm) panels and position it opposite from the back panel. Line up the panel’s longer edges so they are flush with the side panels. Then, secure the front panel in place with another set of 4 nails.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Complete the box by nailing the bottom panel to a side.\", \"描述\": \"Tip the box over so 1 of the open ends faces upwards. It doesn’t matter which of the open ends you choose, so pick whatever side you like best as the bottom. Set the larger of the 2 remaining panel on top of the house, lining up the edges so they’re flush with the other panels. Then, use 4 more nails to fasten the panels together.\\nPlace the nails in the panel’s corners. Leave 1 in (2.5 cm) of space from the edges of the box as usual.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Place a cover on the house if you desire to keep out bigger creatures.\", \"描述\": \"To give the ladybugs some privacy, get hinge kits with ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long screws. Position the hinges on the outer edge of the back panel. Rest the hinges on top of the back panel, screwing them in place with an electric screwdriver. Screw the other end of the hinges to the bottom edge of the top panel.\\nYou will need 4 screws for each hinge. Make sure the hinges are positioned so the house’s lid swings outwards.\\nKeeping the box open is possible, but sometimes birds and squirrels try to get inside. The lid also helps keep out water.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Drill holes in the sides of the house if you need a way to let in ladybugs.\", \"描述\": \"Now the ladybugs need a way to get in and out of the house. An easy way to do this is with a ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) drill bit. Use the drill bit on the front and side panels, making 2 to 3 holes per side. Keep the holes relatively small so bigger bugs like bees have a harder time getting in.\\nInstead of making round holes, try cutting thin slats into the house. Slats are big enough for ladybugs but too small for bees and butterflies.\\nDepending on how you build your house, you may not need the holes. If you leave the house open, for example, the holes are unnecessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Paint and decorate the outside of the house if you desire.\", \"描述\": \"Get a can of water-resistant latex paint in your favorite color, then use a big brush to color the house. Ladybugs respond to bright colors like white, yellow, and light blue. To make your house stand out, also consider painting it red and black for some ladybug fashion.\\nUse decorations such as stickers to make the house unique and stand out. For example, use bright stickers in the shape of flowers to attract more ladybugs, or use round, black stickers for a house with ladybug spots.\\nWork in a ventilated area and wear a safety mask while painting, especially if you choose to use spray paint instead of canned paint.\\nPriming a new house isn’t necessary for fresh wood, especially if you sanded it first. If you ever need to repaint the house, plan on priming it first to hide the old layer of paint.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Filling the Inside Part of the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place a stick or wood block in the house to create compartments.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a piece of scrap wood about 5 ⁄2 in (14 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) tall, for instance, and fit it inside the house. Most ladybugs congregate together, but some like to crawl off on their own. The wood creates a divider that gives the ladybugs more surfaces to crawl around on.\\nMake sure the scrap block or stick you choose fits inside the house, dividing the space up into separate little “rooms” for shy ladybugs.\\nBamboo sticks are a great way to give ladybugs lot of hiding spots. Order some bamboo online, then cut the sticks into segments that fit inside the house. Position the sticks so the cut end faces the house’s entrance.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place raisins and other sweet foods inside the house.\", \"描述\": \"Although ladybugs mostly live on pests, they enjoy sugar from time to time. Set a couple of raisins or an apple slice in your ladybug house for the new guests. To make the raisins bigger and last longer, soak them in water for 5 minutes, dry them gently with a paper towel, then cut them in half.\\nLadybugs also love sugar water. Stir some sugar into a bowl of water, about 1 part sugar to 10 parts water. Then, soak the water up with a sponge. Move the sponge into the house for the ladybugs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a water source like a cotton ball dampened in fresh water.\", \"描述\": \"Ladybugs, especially younger ones, need a little bit of clean water to survive. Soaking a cotton ball or paper towel in clean water is a safe way to keep the house supplied. Replace it once it begins to dry out.\\nAlternatively, make your own pool. For example, shape tin foil or cut up a Styrofoam plate into a shallow pool about 5 in (13 cm) wide.\\nKeep pools very shallow in case the ladybugs fall into it. Even small amount of water can be dangerous for them. For that reason, using bottle caps isn’t recommended.\\nIf you have bamboo or other plants in them, lightly spray the house with a misting bottle. That way, the ladybugs have plenty of water without needing a pool.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hanging and Maintaining the House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set the house in a secure spot out of the rain.\", \"描述\": \"Find a spot to set the house, such as on a sturdy tree branch. Choose a covered spot with plenty of leaves, a roof, or other protections that will keep water from entering the house. Make sure the house won’t get blown over by the wind.\\nThe best spot for the house is up in the air, on a branch, wall, or a similar surface. That way, bugs on the ground have a harder time reaching it.\\nTo secure the house, hang it on a branch or a pole with a hook. Tie it in place with a strong wire. Drill small holes as needed to thread a hanging wire through the house.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place ladybug houses near gardens to get more visitors.\", \"描述\": \"Ladybugs eat pests like aphids and mites, which live on garden plants. If you keep your house as close to a garden as possible, you have a better chance of attracting ladybugs to it. They may stop by as they fly to and from the garden.\\nRose bushes are popular with aphids. They also like vegetable plants, such as lettuce and broccoli. Keep the ladybug house near these plants to increase the chances of attracting visitors.\\nLadybugs also eat pollen from some flowers and herbs. Hang the ladybug house as a shelter near dill, cilantro, geraniums, cosmos, and other garden plants.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Replace the food and water sources every week.\", \"描述\": \"Check the house often to make sure the ladybugs are happy and healthy. When the old food starts to spoil, swap it out for something fresh. Also, refill the water source or mist the house when it dries out so the ladybugs don’t leave.\\nFor example, replace raisins when they start smelling sour or become moldy. Apple slices will turn soft and brown as they spoil.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Sometimes ladybugs don’t come to the house. Do your best to attract them with sugary food and water. If they don’t show up at first, keep trying!\\n\", \"Customize your house! There are many ways to build a house you like, such as making the house longer or making walls out of stones and other material. Look at some store-bought houses online for inspiration.\\n\", \"For a smaller house, cut a bamboo stick in half and hang it on a wire. It’s a simple way to provide accessible shelter for ladybugs.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Working around wood dust and paint is unsafe without proper precautions. Wear a dust mask and work in a ventilated area away from other people.\\n\", \"Keep children away from woodworking and paint supplies. For a more child-friendly option, make a less permanent house out of cardboard and tape.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,405
How to Build a Lamp
1. Preparation 1-1. Find a base. The base for your lamp should be sturdy enough to stand on its own, even after you add lamp apparatus and a shade on top. If you have a hollow base that you need to stabilize, consider partially filling it with something like marbles or sand. Some ideas for lamp bases that you could use: Wine bottles Log or timber Wooden pails or buckets Toys or figurines Hollowed-out books 1-2. Buy a lamp kit. These can be found at most hardware stores. Note that it's possible to purchase the pieces separately, but buying them together will ensure a better fit. If you do buy the cord separately, choose a #18 size cord. If you don't want to buy a lamp kit, and instead want to purchase the items separately, you'll need: Detachable harp Cord set Push-through socket and socket shell Finial Assorted hardware, like nuts, bolts and washers 1-3. Prepare the base for the rod. The rod is a hollow tube that will run the cord up through the bottom of your base to the lightbulb at the top. Depending on your base, you may have to drill or cut holes wide enough for the rod at the top and bottom of the lamp. If necessary, you can trim the rod with a hacksaw or pipe cutters, but it's best (and easier) to choose a base that's fitted to your rod. Sawing your rod down to size is not ideal. 1-4. Stabilize the bottom of the base. Your lamp kit might come with a piece meant to stabilize the bottom of your base. If it doesn't, simply purchase rubber stoppers. Affix these at intervals around the base to prevent sliding and lift the base slightly off the table, allowing room for the cord. 2. Setup 2-1. Thread the cord through the rod. The cord should consist of two covered wires stuck together. Thread it through the rod from bottom to top, leaving 3 or 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) of cord about the base. Before threading, tape the wire ends together so that they fit smoothly inside the rod. When doing this, make sure that the bottom of the plug doesn't rub against the rod's sharp edge. 2-2. Screw the lock nut onto the end of the lamp rod. Make sure your cords are threaded to where you want them first. 2-3. Screw the neck onto the lamp rod (optional). Your lamp kit may or may not come with a flat, broad "neck" piece or a rubber stopper to add to the lamp rod. 2-4. Add the harp bottom. Screw the harp bottom onto the lamp rod, arms facing upward. This will be the base for the rest of the harp. 2-5. Screw on the socket cap. Put the bowl-shaped socket cap on top of the harp bottom, open end up. Secure tightly. 2-6. Strip the wires. Pull the two covered wires at the top of the cord apart, separating about 4 inches (10 cm) down the cord. Using wire strippers or a knife, remove the insulation from the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the cords. 2-7. Tie the wires. Tie the wires into an underwriter's knot, which looks like a pretzel. Doing this will prevent the wires from falling through the rod to the base. To tie an underwriter's knot: Bring the left wire down so that it's facing to the right, in front of the doubled wiring. Bring the right wire down so that it's facing to the left, in back of the doubled wiring. Put the right wire into the loop on the left side. Pull the ends of both wires tight, fastening the knot. 3. Finalization 3-1. Find the hot wire and the neutral wire. Usually, the neutral wire will be surrounded by ribbed insulation. If you're unsure, refer to the instructions that came with your lamp kit. If the wires have two colors at all, the white is the neutral wire and the black is the hot wire. 3-2. Wrap the wires around the screws on the bulb socket. The bulb socket in the lamp kit should have two screws of different colors positioned at the base. Wrap the neutral wire clockwise around the silver (or white) screw, and the hot wire clockwise around the gold (or dark) screw. If you're unsure, check the manual that came with your lamp kit. Using a screwdriver, tighten the screws down over the wires. 3-3. Put the socket shell over the bulb socket. Line it up so that the slot coming up from the bottom of the socket shell aligns with the switch on the bulb socket. Tuck the cords inside so that they won't be visible, and push down the socket shell until it locks into place. 3-4. Attach the top of the harp. Squeeze the sides of the harp as you slide them into the slots on the harp bottom. 3-5. Place your lampshade on top of the harp. Once it's secure, twist down the locknut to secure it. 3-6. Screw a lightbulb into the socket, and plug in your lamp. Tips If you don't wish to run a rod through your lamp base, sockets are available that allow the lamp cord to come through the bottom part of the socket shell. Reassemble both the plug and the socket as necessary, making sure there is no excess wire sticking out that can short to the other conductor. If any of the wires from one conductor touch the other conductor, you will have a "short," which can shock you or cause a fire. Standard lamps are drilled down the centre to take the wire. At home this can be best achieved by using 3 wooden rods, such as broom handles glued together in a triangle. This automatically leaves a space down the centre. Alternatively, you could use a metal tube, but take care with metal and electricity. Warnings Ensure that decorative items or wires are not too close to the lightbulb. Always leave spacing from the light bulb and other materials which can cause burning and damaging. Keep in mind that wiring electrical circuits carries some risk. If the wiring is not correct, you can be shocked or electrocuted or the device can cause a fire. If you are unsure of what you are doing, you may want to prepare the object you want to make a lamp out of for wiring (the mount, the passageways for the wire, the lamp socket and shade mounting) and let someone more skilled in electrical wiring actually wire up the lamp. Always unplug the lamp before working with the wires. Do not plug in the lamp until you're finished building it.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparation\\n1-1. Find a base.\\nThe base for your lamp should be sturdy enough to stand on its own, even after you add lamp apparatus and a shade on top. If you have a hollow base that you need to stabilize, consider partially filling it with something like marbles or sand. Some ideas for lamp bases that you could use:\\nWine bottles\\nLog or timber\\nWooden pails or buckets\\nToys or figurines\\nHollowed-out books\\n1-2. Buy a lamp kit.\\nThese can be found at most hardware stores. Note that it's possible to purchase the pieces separately, but buying them together will ensure a better fit. If you do buy the cord separately, choose a #18 size cord.\\nIf you don't want to buy a lamp kit, and instead want to purchase the items separately, you'll need:\\nDetachable harp\\nCord set\\nPush-through socket and socket shell\\nFinial\\nAssorted hardware, like nuts, bolts and washers\\n1-3. Prepare the base for the rod.\\nThe rod is a hollow tube that will run the cord up through the bottom of your base to the lightbulb at the top. Depending on your base, you may have to drill or cut holes wide enough for the rod at the top and bottom of the lamp.\\nIf necessary, you can trim the rod with a hacksaw or pipe cutters, but it's best (and easier) to choose a base that's fitted to your rod. Sawing your rod down to size is not ideal.\\n1-4. Stabilize the bottom of the base.\\nYour lamp kit might come with a piece meant to stabilize the bottom of your base. If it doesn't, simply purchase rubber stoppers. Affix these at intervals around the base to prevent sliding and lift the base slightly off the table, allowing room for the cord.\\n2. Setup\\n2-1. Thread the cord through the rod.\\nThe cord should consist of two covered wires stuck together. Thread it through the rod from bottom to top, leaving 3 or 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) of cord about the base.\\nBefore threading, tape the wire ends together so that they fit smoothly inside the rod.\\nWhen doing this, make sure that the bottom of the plug doesn't rub against the rod's sharp edge.\\n2-2. Screw the lock nut onto the end of the lamp rod.\\nMake sure your cords are threaded to where you want them first.\\n2-3. Screw the neck onto the lamp rod (optional).\\nYour lamp kit may or may not come with a flat, broad \\\"neck\\\" piece or a rubber stopper to add to the lamp rod.\\n2-4. Add the harp bottom.\\nScrew the harp bottom onto the lamp rod, arms facing upward. This will be the base for the rest of the harp.\\n2-5. Screw on the socket cap.\\nPut the bowl-shaped socket cap on top of the harp bottom, open end up. Secure tightly.\\n2-6. Strip the wires.\\nPull the two covered wires at the top of the cord apart, separating about 4 inches (10 cm) down the cord. Using wire strippers or a knife, remove the insulation from the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the cords.\\n2-7. Tie the wires.\\nTie the wires into an underwriter's knot, which looks like a pretzel. Doing this will prevent the wires from falling through the rod to the base. To tie an underwriter's knot:\\nBring the left wire down so that it's facing to the right, in front of the doubled wiring.\\nBring the right wire down so that it's facing to the left, in back of the doubled wiring.\\nPut the right wire into the loop on the left side.\\nPull the ends of both wires tight, fastening the knot.\\n3. Finalization\\n3-1. Find the hot wire and the neutral wire.\\nUsually, the neutral wire will be surrounded by ribbed insulation. If you're unsure, refer to the instructions that came with your lamp kit.\\nIf the wires have two colors at all, the white is the neutral wire and the black is the hot wire.\\n3-2. Wrap the wires around the screws on the bulb socket.\\nThe bulb socket in the lamp kit should have two screws of different colors positioned at the base. Wrap the neutral wire clockwise around the silver (or white) screw, and the hot wire clockwise around the gold (or dark) screw. If you're unsure, check the manual that came with your lamp kit. Using a screwdriver, tighten the screws down over the wires.\\n3-3. Put the socket shell over the bulb socket.\\nLine it up so that the slot coming up from the bottom of the socket shell aligns with the switch on the bulb socket. Tuck the cords inside so that they won't be visible, and push down the socket shell until it locks into place.\\n3-4. Attach the top of the harp.\\nSqueeze the sides of the harp as you slide them into the slots on the harp bottom.\\n3-5. Place your lampshade on top of the harp.\\nOnce it's secure, twist down the locknut to secure it.\\n3-6. Screw a lightbulb into the socket, and plug in your lamp.\\n\\nTips\\nIf you don't wish to run a rod through your lamp base, sockets are available that allow the lamp cord to come through the bottom part of the socket shell.\\nReassemble both the plug and the socket as necessary, making sure there is no excess wire sticking out that can short to the other conductor. If any of the wires from one conductor touch the other conductor, you will have a \\\"short,\\\" which can shock you or cause a fire.\\nStandard lamps are drilled down the centre to take the wire. At home this can be best achieved by using 3 wooden rods, such as broom handles glued together in a triangle. This automatically leaves a space down the centre. Alternatively, you could use a metal tube, but take care with metal and electricity.\\nWarnings\\nEnsure that decorative items or wires are not too close to the lightbulb. Always leave spacing from the light bulb and other materials which can cause burning and damaging.\\nKeep in mind that wiring electrical circuits carries some risk. If the wiring is not correct, you can be shocked or electrocuted or the device can cause a fire. If you are unsure of what you are doing, you may want to prepare the object you want to make a lamp out of for wiring (the mount, the passageways for the wire, the lamp socket and shade mounting) and let someone more skilled in electrical wiring actually wire up the lamp.\\nAlways unplug the lamp before working with the wires. Do not plug in the lamp until you're finished building it.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Store-bought lamps are a quick, easy way to add light to a room, but they can also be a bit boring because they’re made to appeal to lots of different people. Instead, try building your own one-of-a-kind lamp using a meaningful object as the base.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparation\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find a base.\", \"描述\": \"The base for your lamp should be sturdy enough to stand on its own, even after you add lamp apparatus and a shade on top. If you have a hollow base that you need to stabilize, consider partially filling it with something like marbles or sand. Some ideas for lamp bases that you could use:\\nWine bottles\\nLog or timber\\nWooden pails or buckets\\nToys or figurines\\nHollowed-out books\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Buy a lamp kit.\", \"描述\": \"These can be found at most hardware stores. Note that it's possible to purchase the pieces separately, but buying them together will ensure a better fit. If you do buy the cord separately, choose a #18 size cord.\\nIf you don't want to buy a lamp kit, and instead want to purchase the items separately, you'll need:\\nDetachable harp\\nCord set\\nPush-through socket and socket shell\\nFinial\\nAssorted hardware, like nuts, bolts and washers\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Prepare the base for the rod.\", \"描述\": \"The rod is a hollow tube that will run the cord up through the bottom of your base to the lightbulb at the top. Depending on your base, you may have to drill or cut holes wide enough for the rod at the top and bottom of the lamp.\\nIf necessary, you can trim the rod with a hacksaw or pipe cutters, but it's best (and easier) to choose a base that's fitted to your rod. Sawing your rod down to size is not ideal.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stabilize the bottom of the base.\", \"描述\": \"Your lamp kit might come with a piece meant to stabilize the bottom of your base. If it doesn't, simply purchase rubber stoppers. Affix these at intervals around the base to prevent sliding and lift the base slightly off the table, allowing room for the cord.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Setup\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Thread the cord through the rod.\", \"描述\": \"The cord should consist of two covered wires stuck together. Thread it through the rod from bottom to top, leaving 3 or 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) of cord about the base.\\nBefore threading, tape the wire ends together so that they fit smoothly inside the rod.\\nWhen doing this, make sure that the bottom of the plug doesn't rub against the rod's sharp edge.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the lock nut onto the end of the lamp rod.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure your cords are threaded to where you want them first.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Screw the neck onto the lamp rod (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Your lamp kit may or may not come with a flat, broad \\\"neck\\\" piece or a rubber stopper to add to the lamp rod.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the harp bottom.\", \"描述\": \"Screw the harp bottom onto the lamp rod, arms facing upward. This will be the base for the rest of the harp.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Screw on the socket cap.\", \"描述\": \"Put the bowl-shaped socket cap on top of the harp bottom, open end up. Secure tightly.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Strip the wires.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the two covered wires at the top of the cord apart, separating about 4 inches (10 cm) down the cord. Using wire strippers or a knife, remove the insulation from the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the cords.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Tie the wires.\", \"描述\": \"Tie the wires into an underwriter's knot, which looks like a pretzel. Doing this will prevent the wires from falling through the rod to the base. To tie an underwriter's knot:\\nBring the left wire down so that it's facing to the right, in front of the doubled wiring.\\nBring the right wire down so that it's facing to the left, in back of the doubled wiring.\\nPut the right wire into the loop on the left side.\\nPull the ends of both wires tight, fastening the knot.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finalization\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Find the hot wire and the neutral wire.\", \"描述\": \"Usually, the neutral wire will be surrounded by ribbed insulation. If you're unsure, refer to the instructions that came with your lamp kit.\\nIf the wires have two colors at all, the white is the neutral wire and the black is the hot wire.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the wires around the screws on the bulb socket.\", \"描述\": \"The bulb socket in the lamp kit should have two screws of different colors positioned at the base. Wrap the neutral wire clockwise around the silver (or white) screw, and the hot wire clockwise around the gold (or dark) screw. If you're unsure, check the manual that came with your lamp kit. Using a screwdriver, tighten the screws down over the wires.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Put the socket shell over the bulb socket.\", \"描述\": \"Line it up so that the slot coming up from the bottom of the socket shell aligns with the switch on the bulb socket. Tuck the cords inside so that they won't be visible, and push down the socket shell until it locks into place.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the top of the harp.\", \"描述\": \"Squeeze the sides of the harp as you slide them into the slots on the harp bottom.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Place your lampshade on top of the harp.\", \"描述\": \"Once it's secure, twist down the locknut to secure it.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Screw a lightbulb into the socket, and plug in your lamp.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If you don't wish to run a rod through your lamp base, sockets are available that allow the lamp cord to come through the bottom part of the socket shell.\\n\", \"Reassemble both the plug and the socket as necessary, making sure there is no excess wire sticking out that can short to the other conductor. If any of the wires from one conductor touch the other conductor, you will have a \\\"short,\\\" which can shock you or cause a fire.\\n\", \"Standard lamps are drilled down the centre to take the wire. At home this can be best achieved by using 3 wooden rods, such as broom handles glued together in a triangle. This automatically leaves a space down the centre. Alternatively, you could use a metal tube, but take care with metal and electricity.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Ensure that decorative items or wires are not too close to the lightbulb. Always leave spacing from the light bulb and other materials which can cause burning and damaging.\\n\", \"Keep in mind that wiring electrical circuits carries some risk. If the wiring is not correct, you can be shocked or electrocuted or the device can cause a fire. If you are unsure of what you are doing, you may want to prepare the object you want to make a lamp out of for wiring (the mount, the passageways for the wire, the lamp socket and shade mounting) and let someone more skilled in electrical wiring actually wire up the lamp.\\n\", \"Always unplug the lamp before working with the wires. Do not plug in the lamp until you're finished building it.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,406
How to Build a Landscape Border Around a House
1. Planning and Installing the Border 1-1. Take note of your home's key features. Formal styles tend to have symmetrical designs while informal styles tend to have asymmetrical designs. Instead of contrasting these features, compliment them. If, for instance, you have a formal style home, like a Colonial Revival, you should choose a fairly formal landscape garden that closely frames the perimeter of your house. For less formal styles, like ranches, curvy casual landscape borders are the way to go. 1-2. Measure out the area. The exact amount of space your border should take up will depend on how large your yard is, but the average suburban home can handle a border that is about 2 to 3 feet (2/3 to 1 meter) out from the house. The border can follow the entire perimeter of your house, or you can choose to highlight certain areas. You can also add visual interest by creating a curved, uneven path rather than one with straight lines and sharp corners. 1-3. Mark the border. Clearly marking where the border begins will make it easier to work with. Hammer wooden stakes in the ground, several feet (approximately 1 meter) apart from each other or by using enough to clearly form the necessary curves of your design. Tie plastic tape or rope around the stakes, connecting them together to create a visible yet temporary border. 1-4. Remove the turf. Cut into the ground using a shark knife or shovel blade to separate the area into section. Use a shovel to dig out the grass and weeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep, sliding the shovel beneath the turf and lifting it out gently. 1-5. Level the ground. Use a spade to make the ground as even as possible. 1-6. Create a second temporary border. Position the first brick so that the top corner rests against one of the wooden stakes. The brick should be perpendicular to the side of the house. Place other bricks at each stake to gauge the right distance. Then, move the stakes and the tape back so that they are at the bottom of each brick, measuring out the brick border itself. 1-7. Create a second trench. Cut into the ground another 1 inch (2.5 cm), removing the soil and leveling the area out as much as possible. 1-8. Fill the second trench with wet mortar. Remove the guide bricks and fill the area in with wet mortar. 1-9. Lay the bricks. Place the bricks directly over the mortar, just below the level of your lawn. Leave a little space in between each brick rather that packing them together closely. Pack them in place with a hammer or mallet. 1-10. Fill in the spaces. Pack dry mortar in between the bricks using a trowel. Clean of the extra with a small brush. 2. Choosing and Adding Landscape 2-1. Add and prep the soil. After the mortar has finished drying, fill the ditch in between the bricks and the house with garden soil. You can use soil that you removed previously or specially purchase garden soil. Regardless of what soil you use or which plants you choose for your border, you should also enrich the soil by digging compost into the top foot (30.5 cm). 2-2. Choose plants that do not require much water. Having too much sitting water near the foundation of your home can cause problems. Water can leak into basements and bottom floors, especially on older homes, and moist soil can also draw insects that could later find their way into your house from your border garden. 2-3. Decide on a color scheme. Many traditional border landscapes rely on evergreen shrubs and tall green grasses. If you want a few flowering shrubs, though, you should make sure that the ones you choose have flowers with hues that will complement one another rather than compete, especially if the flowers will be blooming at the same time. 2-4. Place tall plants near the corners of your house. Tall plants soften the edge of a home, making smaller homes look larger. 2-5. Add mulch. After you have finished planting, apply a layer of mulch over the area and around the base of your plants. Even though mulch retains moisture, it also helps to prevent it from leaking into the house. Mulch regulates the soil temperature, preventing it from becoming too hot or cold, as well. Moreover, mulch also prevents weeds and grass from poking through the soil. Warnings Avoid killing grass and weeds chemically.[10] X Research source The herbicides can linger in your soil, making it difficult for other vegetation to grow there after the grass and weeds are gone.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning and Installing the Border\\n1-1. Take note of your home's key features.\\nFormal styles tend to have symmetrical designs while informal styles tend to have asymmetrical designs. Instead of contrasting these features, compliment them. If, for instance, you have a formal style home, like a Colonial Revival, you should choose a fairly formal landscape garden that closely frames the perimeter of your house. For less formal styles, like ranches, curvy casual landscape borders are the way to go.\\n1-2. Measure out the area.\\nThe exact amount of space your border should take up will depend on how large your yard is, but the average suburban home can handle a border that is about 2 to 3 feet (2/3 to 1 meter) out from the house.\\nThe border can follow the entire perimeter of your house, or you can choose to highlight certain areas. You can also add visual interest by creating a curved, uneven path rather than one with straight lines and sharp corners.\\n1-3. Mark the border.\\nClearly marking where the border begins will make it easier to work with. Hammer wooden stakes in the ground, several feet (approximately 1 meter) apart from each other or by using enough to clearly form the necessary curves of your design. Tie plastic tape or rope around the stakes, connecting them together to create a visible yet temporary border.\\n1-4. Remove the turf.\\nCut into the ground using a shark knife or shovel blade to separate the area into section. Use a shovel to dig out the grass and weeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep, sliding the shovel beneath the turf and lifting it out gently.\\n1-5. Level the ground.\\nUse a spade to make the ground as even as possible.\\n1-6. Create a second temporary border.\\nPosition the first brick so that the top corner rests against one of the wooden stakes. The brick should be perpendicular to the side of the house. Place other bricks at each stake to gauge the right distance. Then, move the stakes and the tape back so that they are at the bottom of each brick, measuring out the brick border itself.\\n1-7. Create a second trench.\\nCut into the ground another 1 inch (2.5 cm), removing the soil and leveling the area out as much as possible.\\n1-8. Fill the second trench with wet mortar.\\nRemove the guide bricks and fill the area in with wet mortar.\\n1-9. Lay the bricks.\\nPlace the bricks directly over the mortar, just below the level of your lawn. Leave a little space in between each brick rather that packing them together closely. Pack them in place with a hammer or mallet.\\n1-10. Fill in the spaces.\\nPack dry mortar in between the bricks using a trowel. Clean of the extra with a small brush.\\n2. Choosing and Adding Landscape\\n2-1. Add and prep the soil.\\nAfter the mortar has finished drying, fill the ditch in between the bricks and the house with garden soil. You can use soil that you removed previously or specially purchase garden soil. Regardless of what soil you use or which plants you choose for your border, you should also enrich the soil by digging compost into the top foot (30.5 cm).\\n2-2. Choose plants that do not require much water.\\nHaving too much sitting water near the foundation of your home can cause problems. Water can leak into basements and bottom floors, especially on older homes, and moist soil can also draw insects that could later find their way into your house from your border garden.\\n2-3. Decide on a color scheme.\\nMany traditional border landscapes rely on evergreen shrubs and tall green grasses. If you want a few flowering shrubs, though, you should make sure that the ones you choose have flowers with hues that will complement one another rather than compete, especially if the flowers will be blooming at the same time.\\n2-4. Place tall plants near the corners of your house.\\nTall plants soften the edge of a home, making smaller homes look larger.\\n2-5. Add mulch.\\nAfter you have finished planting, apply a layer of mulch over the area and around the base of your plants. Even though mulch retains moisture, it also helps to prevent it from leaking into the house. Mulch regulates the soil temperature, preventing it from becoming too hot or cold, as well. Moreover, mulch also prevents weeds and grass from poking through the soil.\\nWarnings\\nAvoid killing grass and weeds chemically.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n The herbicides can linger in your soil, making it difficult for other vegetation to grow there after the grass and weeds are gone.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A landscape border can make a traditional, classy accent to your home when placed around the perimeter. These borders are not especially hard to build and require little more than bricks, plants, and imagination.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning and Installing the Border\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Take note of your home's key features.\", \"描述\": \"Formal styles tend to have symmetrical designs while informal styles tend to have asymmetrical designs. Instead of contrasting these features, compliment them. If, for instance, you have a formal style home, like a Colonial Revival, you should choose a fairly formal landscape garden that closely frames the perimeter of your house. For less formal styles, like ranches, curvy casual landscape borders are the way to go.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Measure out the area.\", \"描述\": \"The exact amount of space your border should take up will depend on how large your yard is, but the average suburban home can handle a border that is about 2 to 3 feet (2/3 to 1 meter) out from the house.\\nThe border can follow the entire perimeter of your house, or you can choose to highlight certain areas. You can also add visual interest by creating a curved, uneven path rather than one with straight lines and sharp corners.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Mark the border.\", \"描述\": \"Clearly marking where the border begins will make it easier to work with. Hammer wooden stakes in the ground, several feet (approximately 1 meter) apart from each other or by using enough to clearly form the necessary curves of your design. Tie plastic tape or rope around the stakes, connecting them together to create a visible yet temporary border.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the turf.\", \"描述\": \"Cut into the ground using a shark knife or shovel blade to separate the area into section. Use a shovel to dig out the grass and weeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep, sliding the shovel beneath the turf and lifting it out gently.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Level the ground.\", \"描述\": \"Use a spade to make the ground as even as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Create a second temporary border.\", \"描述\": \"Position the first brick so that the top corner rests against one of the wooden stakes. The brick should be perpendicular to the side of the house. Place other bricks at each stake to gauge the right distance. Then, move the stakes and the tape back so that they are at the bottom of each brick, measuring out the brick border itself.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Create a second trench.\", \"描述\": \"Cut into the ground another 1 inch (2.5 cm), removing the soil and leveling the area out as much as possible.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Fill the second trench with wet mortar.\", \"描述\": \"Remove the guide bricks and fill the area in with wet mortar.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Lay the bricks.\", \"描述\": \"Place the bricks directly over the mortar, just below the level of your lawn. Leave a little space in between each brick rather that packing them together closely. Pack them in place with a hammer or mallet.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Fill in the spaces.\", \"描述\": \"Pack dry mortar in between the bricks using a trowel. Clean of the extra with a small brush.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choosing and Adding Landscape\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Add and prep the soil.\", \"描述\": \"After the mortar has finished drying, fill the ditch in between the bricks and the house with garden soil. You can use soil that you removed previously or specially purchase garden soil. Regardless of what soil you use or which plants you choose for your border, you should also enrich the soil by digging compost into the top foot (30.5 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose plants that do not require much water.\", \"描述\": \"Having too much sitting water near the foundation of your home can cause problems. Water can leak into basements and bottom floors, especially on older homes, and moist soil can also draw insects that could later find their way into your house from your border garden.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Decide on a color scheme.\", \"描述\": \"Many traditional border landscapes rely on evergreen shrubs and tall green grasses. If you want a few flowering shrubs, though, you should make sure that the ones you choose have flowers with hues that will complement one another rather than compete, especially if the flowers will be blooming at the same time.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Place tall plants near the corners of your house.\", \"描述\": \"Tall plants soften the edge of a home, making smaller homes look larger.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add mulch.\", \"描述\": \"After you have finished planting, apply a layer of mulch over the area and around the base of your plants. Even though mulch retains moisture, it also helps to prevent it from leaking into the house. Mulch regulates the soil temperature, preventing it from becoming too hot or cold, as well. Moreover, mulch also prevents weeds and grass from poking through the soil.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"Avoid killing grass and weeds chemically.[10]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n The herbicides can linger in your soil, making it difficult for other vegetation to grow there after the grass and weeds are gone.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,407
How to Build a Laptop Computer
1. Finding the Parts 1-1. Decide what the laptop’s main purpose will be. A laptop for word processing and email-checking will have much different specifications than a laptop for playing the latest games. Battery life is also an important consideration; if you plan to roam around unplugged, you’ll want a laptop that doesn’t draw much power. 1-2. Choose a processor that meets your computer’s needs. The shell that you purchase will be dependent on the processor that you want to install, so pick your processor first. Compare processor models to determine which processor offers the best speed versus cooling and power consumption. Most major online retailers will let you compare processors side-by-side. Make sure that you are purchasing a mobile processor, and not a desktop processor. There are two major processor manufacturers: Intel and AMD. There are plenty of arguments for and against each brand, but generally AMD will be less expensive. Do as much research as possible on the processor models you are interested in to be certain it is worth the money. 1-3. Choose your notebook shell. The notebook shell will determine which parts you can use for the rest your laptop. The shell will come with the motherboard attached already, which will dictate what memory you can use. Take screen size and keyboard layout into account as well. Since the shell is not particularly customizable, you will be stuck with the screen and keyboard you choose. A larger laptop will be more difficult to carry around, and will most likely be significantly heavier. Finding shells for sale can be difficult. Enter “barebones notebook” or “whitebook shell” into your favorite search engine to track down retailers that stock shells. Some laptop manufacturers or suppliers will allow you to choose just the shell. MSI and Eluktronics are some of the few companies that still offer barebone laptops. 1-4. Purchase memory. Your laptop will need memory to run, and the format of the memory is different than desktop. Look for SO-DIMM memory that will work with the motherboard in your shell. Faster memory will give better performance, but may lead to shorter battery life. Try to get 8 or 16 GB of memory for optimal everyday performance. 1-5. Pick out a hard drive. Laptops typically use 2.5” drives, as opposed to the 3.5” drives found in desktops. You can choose between a standard 5400 RPM or 7200 RPM drive, or pick a solid state drive with no moving parts. The solid state drive (SSD) will typically be faster and has no moving parts, but they can be more difficult to use over long periods. Solid state drives also come in an NVMe version. NVMe can be more than 7x faster than SATA, and is in a smaller, M.2 form factor. If you want a laptop to roam around, a solid state drive (SSD) would be best, as it will not be physically damaged by impacts as much as a hard disk drive. Get a hard drive with enough space for you to do what you want with the laptop. Most shells don’t have space for more than one drive, so it can be difficult to upgrade later. Make sure that there is enough room on the hard drive after the operating system installation (usually between 15-20 GB). Nowadays, most people choose from a 500GB-1.5TB range for laptops. 1-6. Decide if you need a dedicated graphics card (optional). Not all shells will fit a dedicated mobile graphics card. Instead, the graphics will be handled by the CPU's integrated graphics unit. If you can install a dedicated card, decide if you need one. They are most important for gamers and graphic designers. 1-7. Find an optical drive (optional). This is becoming more of an optional step as computers advance, since you can install operating systems from USB drives and download most software. If you buy a new laptop today, most do not have an optical drive, as disc memory is now replaced with memory cards and removable drives. Some shells come with drives included. Not all notebook drives fit all shells, so make sure that the drive fits the shell you picked. Choosing whether or not to buy one is easy. Consider whether you use disc memory often. Remember, you can use a USB external optical drive instead of a built-in optical drive. 1-8. Choose a battery. You will need to find one that has the correct shape and uses the same connector (laptop batteries have multiple pins. The battery contains ICs and the IC notifies the computer on temperature, and notify the computer if the battery is not working and should not be charged, and the battery percentage). If you plan to move it around often, use a long life battery. You will need to try comparing many batteries to find one to buy. Buy one with good reviews. Read reviews on customer's experience with using those batteries. 2. Putting it Together 2-1. Get the tools. You’ll want a set of jeweler’s screwdrivers, preferably magnetic. Laptop screws are much smaller and harder to work with than desktop screws. Find a pair of needle-nose pliers to reach any screws that fall into cracks. Keep your screws in plastic baggies until you need them. This will help keep them from rolling away or getting lost. 2-2. Ground yourself. Electrostatic discharge can quickly ruin computer components, so make sure that you are grounded before assembling your laptop. An antistatic wristband will keep you grounded and they are available for cheap. 2-3. Turn over the shell so that the bottom is facing up. You will be accessing the motherboard from several removable plates in the back of the unit. 2-4. Remove the panel covering the drive bay. This panel covers the 2.5” bay that will hold your hard drive. The location varies depending on the shell, but the bay is typically located towards the front of the laptop. 2-5. Mount the hard drive in the bracket. Most notebooks require the hard drive to be mounted to a bracket that fits around the drive. Use four screws to make sure that the hard drive is secured to the bracket. The screw holes will typically ensure that you have it installed the correct direction. 2-6. Slide the bracketed hard drive into the bay. Use the grip tape to apply enough pressure to seat the drive. Most brackets will line up with two screw holes once the drive is in place. Insert screws to secure the drive. 2-7. Install the optical drive. The method will vary depending on your shell, but they are typically inserted from the front of the bay opening, and they slide into SATA connectors. 2-8. Remove the panel covering the motherboard. This panel will most likely be more difficult to remove than the hard drive panel. You may need to pry it open after removing all of the screws. 2-9. Install your memory. Once the panel is open, you will have access to the motherboard and memory slots. Insert the SO-DIMM memory chips into their slots at an angle, and then push them down to click them into place. The memory sticks can only be installed in one direction, so don’t try to force them in. 2-10. Install the CPU. There may be a CPU lock around the socket where the CPU is installed. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to turn it to the “unlocked” position. Turn your CPU over so that you can see the pins. There should be one corner that is missing pins. This notch will line up with the notch on the socket. The CPU will only fit in the socket one way. If the CPU does not seat itself, do not force it, or you may bend the pins, ruining the processor. Once the CPU is inserted, put the CPU lock into the “locked” position. 2-11. Install the cooling fan (most laptops use centrifugal fans). This fan either cools the CPU or cool the CPU and multiple other parts. Your CPU should have come packaged with a cooling fan. Most fans will have thermal paste already applied to the bottom where it connects with CPU. If the fan does not have any paste, you will need to apply some before the fan is installed. Once the paste has been applied, you can install the fan. The exhaust must line up with the vents on your shell. This part can be tricky as you attempt to line everything up. Don’t try to force the heatsink and fan assembly in, but wiggle it in instead. There may be also some mounting bolts to place. If your case includes a bay to place fan dust filter, place a dust filter to prevent dust from clogging the heatsink. Keep the heatsink angled until you find the right position. This will help keep the thermal paste from getting all over your components. Attach the fan’s power cable to the motherboard once the fan is installed. If you don’t connect the fan, the laptop will overheat and turn off after a few minutes of use. 2-12. Close your panels. Once you have installed all of the components, you can place the panels back over the openings and secure them with screws. Your laptop is complete! 3. Starting it Up 3-1. Make sure that the battery is inserted. It is easy to forget the battery in the build process, but make sure that it is inserted and charging properly before booting up the computer. 3-2. Check your memory Before you install an operating system, run Memtest86+ to ensure that your memory is working correctly, and that your computer is functioning in general. Memtest86+ can be downloaded for free online, and can be booted from a CD or USB drive. You can also check that the memory you installed is recognized by using the BIOS. Find the Hardware or Monitor section to see if your memory appears. 3-3. Install an operating system. For self-built laptops, you can choose between Microsoft Windows or a Linux distribution. Windows costs money, but it offers a larger range of programs and hardware compatibility. Linux is free, secure, and supported by a community of volunteer developers. There are many versions of Linux to choose from, but some of the more popular include Ubuntu, Mint, and Debian. It is recommended that you install the latest version of Windows released, as older versions lose support after enough time has passed. If you don’t have an optical drive installed, you will need to create a bootable USB drive with your operating system files. 3-4. Install your drivers Once your operating system is installed, you will need to install drivers for your hardware. Most modern operating systems will do most of this automatically, but you may have one or two components that need to be installed manually. Most components will come with their drivers on a disc. Use the disc if your operating system cannot find the correct drivers.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Finding the Parts\\n1-1. Decide what the laptop’s main purpose will be.\\nA laptop for word processing and email-checking will have much different specifications than a laptop for playing the latest games. Battery life is also an important consideration; if you plan to roam around unplugged, you’ll want a laptop that doesn’t draw much power.\\n1-2. Choose a processor that meets your computer’s needs.\\nThe shell that you purchase will be dependent on the processor that you want to install, so pick your processor first. Compare processor models to determine which processor offers the best speed versus cooling and power consumption. Most major online retailers will let you compare processors side-by-side.\\nMake sure that you are purchasing a mobile processor, and not a desktop processor.\\nThere are two major processor manufacturers: Intel and AMD. There are plenty of arguments for and against each brand, but generally AMD will be less expensive. Do as much research as possible on the processor models you are interested in to be certain it is worth the money.\\n1-3. Choose your notebook shell.\\nThe notebook shell will determine which parts you can use for the rest your laptop. The shell will come with the motherboard attached already, which will dictate what memory you can use.\\nTake screen size and keyboard layout into account as well. Since the shell is not particularly customizable, you will be stuck with the screen and keyboard you choose. A larger laptop will be more difficult to carry around, and will most likely be significantly heavier.\\nFinding shells for sale can be difficult. Enter “barebones notebook” or “whitebook shell” into your favorite search engine to track down retailers that stock shells. Some laptop manufacturers or suppliers will allow you to choose just the shell. MSI and Eluktronics are some of the few companies that still offer barebone laptops.\\n1-4. Purchase memory.\\nYour laptop will need memory to run, and the format of the memory is different than desktop. Look for SO-DIMM memory that will work with the motherboard in your shell. Faster memory will give better performance, but may lead to shorter battery life.\\nTry to get 8 or 16 GB of memory for optimal everyday performance.\\n1-5. Pick out a hard drive.\\nLaptops typically use 2.5” drives, as opposed to the 3.5” drives found in desktops. You can choose between a standard 5400 RPM or 7200 RPM drive, or pick a solid state drive with no moving parts. The solid state drive (SSD) will typically be faster and has no moving parts, but they can be more difficult to use over long periods. Solid state drives also come in an NVMe version. NVMe can be more than 7x faster than SATA, and is in a smaller, M.2 form factor. If you want a laptop to roam around, a solid state drive (SSD) would be best, as it will not be physically damaged by impacts as much as a hard disk drive.\\nGet a hard drive with enough space for you to do what you want with the laptop. Most shells don’t have space for more than one drive, so it can be difficult to upgrade later. Make sure that there is enough room on the hard drive after the operating system installation (usually between 15-20 GB). Nowadays, most people choose from a 500GB-1.5TB range for laptops.\\n1-6. Decide if you need a dedicated graphics card (optional).\\nNot all shells will fit a dedicated mobile graphics card. Instead, the graphics will be handled by the CPU's integrated graphics unit. If you can install a dedicated card, decide if you need one. They are most important for gamers and graphic designers.\\n1-7. Find an optical drive (optional).\\nThis is becoming more of an optional step as computers advance, since you can install operating systems from USB drives and download most software. If you buy a new laptop today, most do not have an optical drive, as disc memory is now replaced with memory cards and removable drives.\\nSome shells come with drives included. Not all notebook drives fit all shells, so make sure that the drive fits the shell you picked.\\nChoosing whether or not to buy one is easy. Consider whether you use disc memory often. Remember, you can use a USB external optical drive instead of a built-in optical drive.\\n1-8. Choose a battery.\\nYou will need to find one that has the correct shape and uses the same connector (laptop batteries have multiple pins. The battery contains ICs and the IC notifies the computer on temperature, and notify the computer if the battery is not working and should not be charged, and the battery percentage). If you plan to move it around often, use a long life battery. You will need to try comparing many batteries to find one to buy.\\nBuy one with good reviews. Read reviews on customer's experience with using those batteries.\\n2. Putting it Together\\n2-1. Get the tools.\\nYou’ll want a set of jeweler’s screwdrivers, preferably magnetic. Laptop screws are much smaller and harder to work with than desktop screws. Find a pair of needle-nose pliers to reach any screws that fall into cracks.\\nKeep your screws in plastic baggies until you need them. This will help keep them from rolling away or getting lost.\\n2-2. Ground yourself.\\nElectrostatic discharge can quickly ruin computer components, so make sure that you are grounded before assembling your laptop. An antistatic wristband will keep you grounded and they are available for cheap.\\n2-3. Turn over the shell so that the bottom is facing up.\\nYou will be accessing the motherboard from several removable plates in the back of the unit.\\n2-4. Remove the panel covering the drive bay.\\nThis panel covers the 2.5” bay that will hold your hard drive. The location varies depending on the shell, but the bay is typically located towards the front of the laptop.\\n2-5. Mount the hard drive in the bracket.\\nMost notebooks require the hard drive to be mounted to a bracket that fits around the drive. Use four screws to make sure that the hard drive is secured to the bracket. The screw holes will typically ensure that you have it installed the correct direction.\\n2-6. Slide the bracketed hard drive into the bay.\\nUse the grip tape to apply enough pressure to seat the drive. Most brackets will line up with two screw holes once the drive is in place. Insert screws to secure the drive.\\n2-7. Install the optical drive.\\nThe method will vary depending on your shell, but they are typically inserted from the front of the bay opening, and they slide into SATA connectors.\\n2-8. Remove the panel covering the motherboard.\\nThis panel will most likely be more difficult to remove than the hard drive panel. You may need to pry it open after removing all of the screws.\\n2-9. Install your memory.\\nOnce the panel is open, you will have access to the motherboard and memory slots. Insert the SO-DIMM memory chips into their slots at an angle, and then push them down to click them into place. The memory sticks can only be installed in one direction, so don’t try to force them in.\\n2-10. Install the CPU.\\nThere may be a CPU lock around the socket where the CPU is installed. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to turn it to the “unlocked” position.\\nTurn your CPU over so that you can see the pins. There should be one corner that is missing pins. This notch will line up with the notch on the socket.\\nThe CPU will only fit in the socket one way. If the CPU does not seat itself, do not force it, or you may bend the pins, ruining the processor.\\nOnce the CPU is inserted, put the CPU lock into the “locked” position.\\n2-11. Install the cooling fan (most laptops use centrifugal fans).\\nThis fan either cools the CPU or cool the CPU and multiple other parts. Your CPU should have come packaged with a cooling fan. Most fans will have thermal paste already applied to the bottom where it connects with CPU. If the fan does not have any paste, you will need to apply some before the fan is installed.\\nOnce the paste has been applied, you can install the fan. The exhaust must line up with the vents on your shell. This part can be tricky as you attempt to line everything up. Don’t try to force the heatsink and fan assembly in, but wiggle it in instead. There may be also some mounting bolts to place. If your case includes a bay to place fan dust filter, place a dust filter to prevent dust from clogging the heatsink.\\nKeep the heatsink angled until you find the right position. This will help keep the thermal paste from getting all over your components.\\nAttach the fan’s power cable to the motherboard once the fan is installed. If you don’t connect the fan, the laptop will overheat and turn off after a few minutes of use.\\n2-12. Close your panels.\\nOnce you have installed all of the components, you can place the panels back over the openings and secure them with screws. Your laptop is complete!\\n3. Starting it Up\\n3-1. Make sure that the battery is inserted.\\nIt is easy to forget the battery in the build process, but make sure that it is inserted and charging properly before booting up the computer.\\n3-2. Check your memory\\nBefore you install an operating system, run Memtest86+ to ensure that your memory is working correctly, and that your computer is functioning in general. Memtest86+ can be downloaded for free online, and can be booted from a CD or USB drive.\\nYou can also check that the memory you installed is recognized by using the BIOS. Find the Hardware or Monitor section to see if your memory appears.\\n3-3. Install an operating system.\\nFor self-built laptops, you can choose between Microsoft Windows or a Linux distribution. Windows costs money, but it offers a larger range of programs and hardware compatibility. Linux is free, secure, and supported by a community of volunteer developers.\\nThere are many versions of Linux to choose from, but some of the more popular include Ubuntu, Mint, and Debian.\\nIt is recommended that you install the latest version of Windows released, as older versions lose support after enough time has passed.\\nIf you don’t have an optical drive installed, you will need to create a bootable USB drive with your operating system files.\\n3-4. Install your drivers\\nOnce your operating system is installed, you will need to install drivers for your hardware. Most modern operating systems will do most of this automatically, but you may have one or two components that need to be installed manually.\\nMost components will come with their drivers on a disc. Use the disc if your operating system cannot find the correct drivers.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Buying a prebuilt laptop from the store is typically an exercise in frustration. The features you want are usually not all available in one computer, and the price can be exorbitant. Not to mention all the software that the companies stuff into it. You can bypass all that if you're willing to get your hands a little dirty. Building your own laptop is a challenge, but incredibly rewarding. Follow this guide to learn how.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Finding the Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide what the laptop’s main purpose will be.\", \"描述\": \"A laptop for word processing and email-checking will have much different specifications than a laptop for playing the latest games. Battery life is also an important consideration; if you plan to roam around unplugged, you’ll want a laptop that doesn’t draw much power.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose a processor that meets your computer’s needs.\", \"描述\": \"The shell that you purchase will be dependent on the processor that you want to install, so pick your processor first. Compare processor models to determine which processor offers the best speed versus cooling and power consumption. Most major online retailers will let you compare processors side-by-side.\\nMake sure that you are purchasing a mobile processor, and not a desktop processor.\\nThere are two major processor manufacturers: Intel and AMD. There are plenty of arguments for and against each brand, but generally AMD will be less expensive. Do as much research as possible on the processor models you are interested in to be certain it is worth the money.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your notebook shell.\", \"描述\": \"The notebook shell will determine which parts you can use for the rest your laptop. The shell will come with the motherboard attached already, which will dictate what memory you can use.\\nTake screen size and keyboard layout into account as well. Since the shell is not particularly customizable, you will be stuck with the screen and keyboard you choose. A larger laptop will be more difficult to carry around, and will most likely be significantly heavier.\\nFinding shells for sale can be difficult. Enter “barebones notebook” or “whitebook shell” into your favorite search engine to track down retailers that stock shells. Some laptop manufacturers or suppliers will allow you to choose just the shell. MSI and Eluktronics are some of the few companies that still offer barebone laptops.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Purchase memory.\", \"描述\": \"Your laptop will need memory to run, and the format of the memory is different than desktop. Look for SO-DIMM memory that will work with the motherboard in your shell. Faster memory will give better performance, but may lead to shorter battery life.\\nTry to get 8 or 16 GB of memory for optimal everyday performance.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Pick out a hard drive.\", \"描述\": \"Laptops typically use 2.5” drives, as opposed to the 3.5” drives found in desktops. You can choose between a standard 5400 RPM or 7200 RPM drive, or pick a solid state drive with no moving parts. The solid state drive (SSD) will typically be faster and has no moving parts, but they can be more difficult to use over long periods. Solid state drives also come in an NVMe version. NVMe can be more than 7x faster than SATA, and is in a smaller, M.2 form factor. If you want a laptop to roam around, a solid state drive (SSD) would be best, as it will not be physically damaged by impacts as much as a hard disk drive.\\nGet a hard drive with enough space for you to do what you want with the laptop. Most shells don’t have space for more than one drive, so it can be difficult to upgrade later. Make sure that there is enough room on the hard drive after the operating system installation (usually between 15-20 GB). Nowadays, most people choose from a 500GB-1.5TB range for laptops.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Decide if you need a dedicated graphics card (optional).\", \"描述\": \"Not all shells will fit a dedicated mobile graphics card. Instead, the graphics will be handled by the CPU's integrated graphics unit. If you can install a dedicated card, decide if you need one. They are most important for gamers and graphic designers.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Find an optical drive (optional).\", \"描述\": \"This is becoming more of an optional step as computers advance, since you can install operating systems from USB drives and download most software. If you buy a new laptop today, most do not have an optical drive, as disc memory is now replaced with memory cards and removable drives.\\nSome shells come with drives included. Not all notebook drives fit all shells, so make sure that the drive fits the shell you picked.\\nChoosing whether or not to buy one is easy. Consider whether you use disc memory often. Remember, you can use a USB external optical drive instead of a built-in optical drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Choose a battery.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to find one that has the correct shape and uses the same connector (laptop batteries have multiple pins. The battery contains ICs and the IC notifies the computer on temperature, and notify the computer if the battery is not working and should not be charged, and the battery percentage). If you plan to move it around often, use a long life battery. You will need to try comparing many batteries to find one to buy.\\nBuy one with good reviews. Read reviews on customer's experience with using those batteries.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Putting it Together\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Get the tools.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll want a set of jeweler’s screwdrivers, preferably magnetic. Laptop screws are much smaller and harder to work with than desktop screws. Find a pair of needle-nose pliers to reach any screws that fall into cracks.\\nKeep your screws in plastic baggies until you need them. This will help keep them from rolling away or getting lost.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Ground yourself.\", \"描述\": \"Electrostatic discharge can quickly ruin computer components, so make sure that you are grounded before assembling your laptop. An antistatic wristband will keep you grounded and they are available for cheap.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Turn over the shell so that the bottom is facing up.\", \"描述\": \"You will be accessing the motherboard from several removable plates in the back of the unit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Remove the panel covering the drive bay.\", \"描述\": \"This panel covers the 2.5” bay that will hold your hard drive. The location varies depending on the shell, but the bay is typically located towards the front of the laptop.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Mount the hard drive in the bracket.\", \"描述\": \"Most notebooks require the hard drive to be mounted to a bracket that fits around the drive. Use four screws to make sure that the hard drive is secured to the bracket. The screw holes will typically ensure that you have it installed the correct direction.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Slide the bracketed hard drive into the bay.\", \"描述\": \"Use the grip tape to apply enough pressure to seat the drive. Most brackets will line up with two screw holes once the drive is in place. Insert screws to secure the drive.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Install the optical drive.\", \"描述\": \"The method will vary depending on your shell, but they are typically inserted from the front of the bay opening, and they slide into SATA connectors.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Remove the panel covering the motherboard.\", \"描述\": \"This panel will most likely be more difficult to remove than the hard drive panel. You may need to pry it open after removing all of the screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Install your memory.\", \"描述\": \"Once the panel is open, you will have access to the motherboard and memory slots. Insert the SO-DIMM memory chips into their slots at an angle, and then push them down to click them into place. The memory sticks can only be installed in one direction, so don’t try to force them in.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Install the CPU.\", \"描述\": \"There may be a CPU lock around the socket where the CPU is installed. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to turn it to the “unlocked” position.\\nTurn your CPU over so that you can see the pins. There should be one corner that is missing pins. This notch will line up with the notch on the socket.\\nThe CPU will only fit in the socket one way. If the CPU does not seat itself, do not force it, or you may bend the pins, ruining the processor.\\nOnce the CPU is inserted, put the CPU lock into the “locked” position.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Install the cooling fan (most laptops use centrifugal fans).\", \"描述\": \"This fan either cools the CPU or cool the CPU and multiple other parts. Your CPU should have come packaged with a cooling fan. Most fans will have thermal paste already applied to the bottom where it connects with CPU. If the fan does not have any paste, you will need to apply some before the fan is installed.\\nOnce the paste has been applied, you can install the fan. The exhaust must line up with the vents on your shell. This part can be tricky as you attempt to line everything up. Don’t try to force the heatsink and fan assembly in, but wiggle it in instead. There may be also some mounting bolts to place. If your case includes a bay to place fan dust filter, place a dust filter to prevent dust from clogging the heatsink.\\nKeep the heatsink angled until you find the right position. This will help keep the thermal paste from getting all over your components.\\nAttach the fan’s power cable to the motherboard once the fan is installed. If you don’t connect the fan, the laptop will overheat and turn off after a few minutes of use.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Close your panels.\", \"描述\": \"Once you have installed all of the components, you can place the panels back over the openings and secure them with screws. Your laptop is complete!\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Starting it Up\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Make sure that the battery is inserted.\", \"描述\": \"It is easy to forget the battery in the build process, but make sure that it is inserted and charging properly before booting up the computer.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Check your memory\", \"描述\": \"Before you install an operating system, run Memtest86+ to ensure that your memory is working correctly, and that your computer is functioning in general. Memtest86+ can be downloaded for free online, and can be booted from a CD or USB drive.\\nYou can also check that the memory you installed is recognized by using the BIOS. Find the Hardware or Monitor section to see if your memory appears.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Install an operating system.\", \"描述\": \"For self-built laptops, you can choose between Microsoft Windows or a Linux distribution. Windows costs money, but it offers a larger range of programs and hardware compatibility. Linux is free, secure, and supported by a community of volunteer developers.\\nThere are many versions of Linux to choose from, but some of the more popular include Ubuntu, Mint, and Debian.\\nIt is recommended that you install the latest version of Windows released, as older versions lose support after enough time has passed.\\nIf you don’t have an optical drive installed, you will need to create a bootable USB drive with your operating system files.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install your drivers\", \"描述\": \"Once your operating system is installed, you will need to install drivers for your hardware. Most modern operating systems will do most of this automatically, but you may have one or two components that need to be installed manually.\\nMost components will come with their drivers on a disc. Use the disc if your operating system cannot find the correct drivers.\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,408
How to Build a Laser Pointer
1. Steps 1-1. Gather your materials. Most of the materials mentioned in the things you'll need section can be procured at online shopping sites or hardware retail shops. Some, such as the laser diode, can be found in other electronic devices such as a disk burner. 1-2. Keep the law in mind. Many countries have laws governing the use and power of laser pointers. You can even be prosecuted for having a laser pointer which exceeds the permissible power limit. Be sure to keep the law in mind and tone down your laser pointer as and when necessary. 1-3. Drill the holes. You will need to drill two holes in the casing. Drill one on the top of the casing. This will be the switch. Drill another hole on the side of the casing for the laser. 1-4. Insert the laser diode into the casing. Some casings come with laser diodes built in. If your casing comes with a built in laser diode, check whether it is powerful enough for your needs. If it isn't, gently remove the laser diode and replace it with a new one. 1-5. Add a power source to your laser. Any battery pack will do, as long as it is powerful enough. 1-6. Attach the power source to the laser diode. You can solder pins on the laser diode to make the attachment easier. 1-7. Put on the finishing touches. Add a switch, and solder all the components to the casing. 1-8. Test your laser pointer. Check whether it works. If it doesn't , you may need to replace the power source or check whether all the components are attached correctly. Tips If a laser casing is hard to come by, you can use the casing of a small flashlight instead. Warnings Never exceed the permissible limit by law for the power of the laser. Never point your laser pointer directly at someone's eyes. This can result in permanent damage to vision.[5] X Research source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Gather your materials.\\nMost of the materials mentioned in the things you'll need section can be procured at online shopping sites or hardware retail shops. Some, such as the laser diode, can be found in other electronic devices such as a disk burner.\\n1-2. Keep the law in mind.\\nMany countries have laws governing the use and power of laser pointers. You can even be prosecuted for having a laser pointer which exceeds the permissible power limit. Be sure to keep the law in mind and tone down your laser pointer as and when necessary.\\n1-3. Drill the holes.\\nYou will need to drill two holes in the casing. Drill one on the top of the casing. This will be the switch. Drill another hole on the side of the casing for the laser.\\n1-4. Insert the laser diode into the casing.\\nSome casings come with laser diodes built in. If your casing comes with a built in laser diode, check whether it is powerful enough for your needs. If it isn't, gently remove the laser diode and replace it with a new one.\\n1-5. Add a power source to your laser.\\nAny battery pack will do, as long as it is powerful enough.\\n1-6. Attach the power source to the laser diode.\\nYou can solder pins on the laser diode to make the attachment easier.\\n1-7. Put on the finishing touches.\\nAdd a switch, and solder all the components to the casing.\\n1-8. Test your laser pointer.\\nCheck whether it works. If it doesn't , you may need to replace the power source or check whether all the components are attached correctly.\\nTips\\nIf a laser casing is hard to come by, you can use the casing of a small flashlight instead.\\nWarnings\\nNever exceed the permissible limit by law for the power of the laser.\\nNever point your laser pointer directly at someone's eyes. This can result in permanent damage to vision.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A laser pointer is a small handheld device, which emits a narrow and coherent beam of light. A homemade laser pointer is cheap, and easy to make. This quick guide will teach you how to make a laser pointer at home.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials.\", \"描述\": \"Most of the materials mentioned in the things you'll need section can be procured at online shopping sites or hardware retail shops. Some, such as the laser diode, can be found in other electronic devices such as a disk burner.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Keep the law in mind.\", \"描述\": \"Many countries have laws governing the use and power of laser pointers. You can even be prosecuted for having a laser pointer which exceeds the permissible power limit. Be sure to keep the law in mind and tone down your laser pointer as and when necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill the holes.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to drill two holes in the casing. Drill one on the top of the casing. This will be the switch. Drill another hole on the side of the casing for the laser.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Insert the laser diode into the casing.\", \"描述\": \"Some casings come with laser diodes built in. If your casing comes with a built in laser diode, check whether it is powerful enough for your needs. If it isn't, gently remove the laser diode and replace it with a new one.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add a power source to your laser.\", \"描述\": \"Any battery pack will do, as long as it is powerful enough.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the power source to the laser diode.\", \"描述\": \"You can solder pins on the laser diode to make the attachment easier.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Put on the finishing touches.\", \"描述\": \"Add a switch, and solder all the components to the casing.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Test your laser pointer.\", \"描述\": \"Check whether it works. If it doesn't , you may need to replace the power source or check whether all the components are attached correctly.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"If a laser casing is hard to come by, you can use the casing of a small flashlight instead.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Never exceed the permissible limit by law for the power of the laser.\\n\", \"Never point your laser pointer directly at someone's eyes. This can result in permanent damage to vision.[5]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,409
How to Build a Lean to Shed
1. Constructing the Shed’s Floor 1-1. Cut the joists to the intended width of your shed. Joists are the cross-beams that will lie on the ground and hold together the outer framing of the floor. Use 2x6 lumber for the joists. For example, if you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, cut each of your joists to 16 feet (4.9 m). Use a circular saw to cut the joists. If you’d rather not cut the joists yourself, you could have the lumber cut at the hardware store from which you bought the lumber. Take safety precautions when using a circular saw. Wear protective eyewear, always cut away from yourself, and never set the circular saw down while the blade is still spinning. Use treated lumber for the joists since the lumber may be in direct contact with the earth. 1-2. Lay out the front and back beams of the floor. Use 2x6 treated lumber for these beams as well. The front and back beams will provide the outline of your shed’s floor. If the beams aren’t already the intended length of your shed, use a circular saw to cut them to the shed’s length, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m). 1-3. Fasten the joists to the floor beams using 3 ½-inch galvanized screws. Lay out each of your cut floor joists between the front and back flooring beams. Leave 14 inches (36 cm) between each of the floor joists. Once the joists are laid out, use a screwdriver to drive a 3 ½-inch screw through the front flooring board and into each joist. Then, drive screws through the back flooring board into each joist. If you’re struggling to insert screws directly through the joist boards, drill a pilot hole to screw each screw into. The number of joists you’ll need will depend on the total length of your shed. If you’re building a shed with a width of 8 feet (2.4 m), you’ll only need 6 or 7 joists. If you’re building a larger shed with a width of 16 feet (4.9 m), you’ll need 13 or 14 joists. 1-4. Attach 4 skid beams to the floor. The skid beams should be made of 4x4 treated lumber. Each skid beam should run the full length of the shed, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m). This means that each skid beam will be the same length as the front and back floor planks. The photo shows the skid beams on top of the floor joists, but once attached they should be underneath supporting the entire weight of the shed. Cut the skids if necessary, and attach them across the joists using metal connectors. Use treated lumber for the skid beams since the lumber will be in direct contact with the earth. Skids sit under the floor joists and provide a stable foundation for the shed to rest on. Skids rest directly on the earth, or on concrete foundation blocks. Either attach the skid beams as shown and then flip the entire floor over (HEAVY - this is at least a two-person operation), or lift up one side of the floor framing and slide the skid beams into position before attaching. 1-5. Cover the framed floor with ¾-inch plywood. The plywood will form the flooring of the shed. Cut your ¾-inch plywood sheets so that they’ll fit together and seamlessly cover the framed flooring. Then, attach the plywood to the joists with 1 5/8-inch screws. Drive 1 screw into each skid beam every 1 foot (0.30 m). Use treated or sealed plywood so that you don’t get splinters in your bare feet when walking on the flooring. 2. Erecting the Side, Front, and Back Walls 2-1. Frame Frame each wall by nailing together 2 2x4 beams for the top and sides. The bottom of the wall should be a single 2x4 beam. Be sure to measure each beam before cutting or nailing them together so that the walls will be properly framed. For example, let’s say you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed. You’ll need to frame: 2 192 in × 81 in (490 cm × 210 cm) side walls. 1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) back wall. 1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) front wall 2-2. Attach joists at 22 inches (56 cm) intervals within each framed wall. Use a circular saw to cut the 2x4 beams to the correct height of 81 inches (210 cm). Then, attach the wall joists to the doubled-up 2x4s of the frame using 2 ½-inch screws. Drill a pilot hole before screwing in the screws to make them slide in a little easier. The framed wall should approximately resemble the framed floor (before the plywood was put on). 2-3. Leave a 21 in (53 cm) gap in the front wall for your door. Regardless of the size of your shed, leave enough room for a standard-sized door so you won’t need to alter the size of the door. Double up 2 2x6 boards on either side of the door opening so that the gap will be reinforced. The doubled-up studs will also give you material to screw the doorframe into. Once your shed is assembled, you can hang a door in the gap you’ve created in the front wall. 2-4. Raise and attach the side walls with 2 ½-inch screws. Lift up the 2 side walls and set them in place on the 2 sides of the framed floor, making sure that the edges and corners of the walls align with the edges of the floor. Then, drive 2 ½-inch screws through the bottom beams of the walls. Drive the screws directly into the floor. Space each screw 8 inches (20 cm) apart. Use a level and a carpenter’s square throughout this process to ensure that the walls are level and all corners are square. 2-5. Raise and attach the front and back walls with 2 ½-inch screws. Once the side walls have been attached in place, you’re ready to attach the front and back walls. Raise the walls and set them in place in between the 2 side walls. Drive 2 ½-inch screws into the sides of the front and back walls where they butt up against the side walls every 8 inches (20 cm). Drive screws through the front and back walls’ bottom boards at the same distance. This will attach the front, back, and side walls all securely together, and also anchor the walls firmly to the floor. If you like, you can add vintage stained glass windows to make it look stylish. 2-6. Attach siding to the 4 walls. Once the walls have been framed and are set in place, you’re ready to attach the outer siding. Measure the final dimensions of each wall, and cut the siding to size using a circular saw. Then attach the cut siding to the walls with 2-inch nails. Space the nails out by about 12 inches (30 cm), and drive them directly into the joists on each wall. Purchase siding at a local home-supply store or hardware store. You can choose the color of the siding. Since lean to sheds are primarily used for storage, you shouldn’t need to insulate the shed walls. 3. Building the Shed Roof 3-1. Frame the top-side wall of the lean to roof with 2x4 lumber. Since a side wall of the shed will be higher than the other side, you’ll need to construct a small add-on wall for the side. The add-on wall should be 192 inches (490 cm) wide, but only 34.75 inches (88.3 cm) tall. Frame the top, bottom, and sides of the wall using 2x4 lumber, and attach joists between the top and bottom every 22.5 inches (57 cm) using 3 ½-inch screws. The sloped roof of the lean to shed will allow water and snow to run off to one side of the roof without soaking into the wood. 3-2. Screw the add-on wall to the top of 1 side of the shed. Select which side of your shed you’d like to be higher than the other. Then, set the add-on wall on the side you’d like to be elevated. Attach it to the top framing of the side wall using 2 ½-inch screws. Space the screws out by 8 inches (20 cm). 3-3. Cut rafters Each rafter should be 168 inches (430 cm) long in order to cover the sloping roof and hang off of the far side. Then, use the circular saw to cut a 1 by 3.5 inches (2.5 cm × 8.9 cm) notch 10.25 inches (26.0 cm) from the top of each rafter. Cut another 1 by 4.25 inches (2.5 cm × 10.8 cm) notch 11.75 inches (29.8 cm) from the bottom of each rafter. Use a circular saw to cut your rafters, and make sure that they’re all uniform. If you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, you’ll need 9 rafters. 3-4. Fit the rafters in place on top of your roof. Space each rafter 24 inches (61 cm) away from the adjacent rafters. If you’ve made your rafter cuts correctly, the rafters should all fit snugly in place and slope evenly from the higher-side wall down over the lower-side wall. 3-5. Attach the rafters to the walls using collar ties. Use 2-3 2-inch nails to attach a collar tie to each rafter about 2 feet (0.61 m) from where it rests on the wall. Then, drive another 2-3 nails into the vertical joists on the side wall add-on. These ties will hold the rafters in place and also stop them from exerting downward pressure on the side walls of the lean to shed. You can purchase collar ties at a large hardware store or at a home-supply store. 3-6. Insert 5 support beams on the front and back of the shed to hold up the sloping roof. Use a circular saw to cut 2x4 beams into support beams. These support beams will hold up the rafters on the sides of the roof. Cut the support beams and insert them under the roof. Each support beam should be spaced 20.5 inches (52 cm) apart from the adjacent support beams. The 5 support beams should be cut to these specifications: 6 inches (15 cm) tall. 12.5 inches (32 cm) tall. 18.75 inches (47.6 cm) tall. 25.25 inches (64.1 cm) tall. 31.75 inches (80.6 cm) tall. 3-7. Cut siding panels for the back, front, and high side of the shed. Measure the uncovered gaps on the upper portions of the shed, and use a circular saw to cut siding sections of corresponding sizes. Keep in mind that the siding panels that cover the front and back of the shed will need to be cut at the same angle as the rafters, in order to provide full coverage. The low side of the shed won’t need a siding panel cut for it, since the roof will come down to the side of the shed. 3-8. Attach the siding panels using 2-inch nails. Once the siding panels are cut to size, attach them to the add-on side wall and the support beams on the front and back walls. Drive 2-inch nails into the joists and support beams to hold the siding firmly in place. Make sure that this siding matches the color of the siding you used for the 4 walls. 3-9. Screw ¾-inch sheets of plywood to the top of the roof. For the shed’s roof, purchase large sheets of plywood that are 96 by 48 inches (240 cm × 120 cm) in size. Use 1 5/8-inch screws to secure the plywood sections firmly in place. Drive screws straight down through the plywood and into the rafter beams. Space each screw out by 8 inches (20 cm). To use gravity to your advantage, start nailing plywood to the roof at its lowest point. This way, gravity will pull the higher plywood sections into place. If you were to start nailing plywood at the highest point of the roof, gravity would pull lower portions off of the rafters. 3-10. Paint or stain the walls and roof of the shed to finish them. You can also paint the door. Stain will draw out the natural color of the wood, while paint will cover over the wood. Whichever you choose, use a 3 in (7.6 cm) paintbrush to apply 3-4 coats of the paint or stain to the sides and top of the shed. Give the paint or stain at least 48 hours to dry before you touch it. You can even put some lighting inside the shed to give a flair to it. Tips The size of the lean to shed is up to you. Small sheds are typically 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m), while larger lean to sheds can be 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m). You may want to wear leather work gloves while working with lumber to prevent splinters and cuts. If you find that hammering in individual nails with a nail gun is too time consuming, try using an air gun instead. You can buy one at a local hardware store.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Constructing the Shed’s Floor\\n1-1. Cut the joists to the intended width of your shed.\\nJoists are the cross-beams that will lie on the ground and hold together the outer framing of the floor. Use 2x6 lumber for the joists. For example, if you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, cut each of your joists to 16 feet (4.9 m). Use a circular saw to cut the joists.\\nIf you’d rather not cut the joists yourself, you could have the lumber cut at the hardware store from which you bought the lumber.\\nTake safety precautions when using a circular saw. Wear protective eyewear, always cut away from yourself, and never set the circular saw down while the blade is still spinning.\\nUse treated lumber for the joists since the lumber may be in direct contact with the earth.\\n1-2. Lay out the front and back beams of the floor.\\nUse 2x6 treated lumber for these beams as well. The front and back beams will provide the outline of your shed’s floor.\\nIf the beams aren’t already the intended length of your shed, use a circular saw to cut them to the shed’s length, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m).\\n1-3. Fasten the joists to the floor beams using 3 ½-inch galvanized screws.\\nLay out each of your cut floor joists between the front and back flooring beams. Leave 14 inches (36 cm) between each of the floor joists. Once the joists are laid out, use a screwdriver to drive a 3 ½-inch screw through the front flooring board and into each joist. Then, drive screws through the back flooring board into each joist.\\nIf you’re struggling to insert screws directly through the joist boards, drill a pilot hole to screw each screw into.\\nThe number of joists you’ll need will depend on the total length of your shed. If you’re building a shed with a width of 8 feet (2.4 m), you’ll only need 6 or 7 joists. If you’re building a larger shed with a width of 16 feet (4.9 m), you’ll need 13 or 14 joists.\\n1-4. Attach 4 skid beams to the floor.\\nThe skid beams should be made of 4x4 treated lumber. Each skid beam should run the full length of the shed, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m). This means that each skid beam will be the same length as the front and back floor planks. The photo shows the skid beams on top of the floor joists, but once attached they should be underneath supporting the entire weight of the shed. Cut the skids if necessary, and attach them across the joists using metal connectors.\\nUse treated lumber for the skid beams since the lumber will be in direct contact with the earth.\\nSkids sit under the floor joists and provide a stable foundation for the shed to rest on. Skids rest directly on the earth, or on concrete foundation blocks.\\nEither attach the skid beams as shown and then flip the entire floor over (HEAVY - this is at least a two-person operation), or lift up one side of the floor framing and slide the skid beams into position before attaching.\\n1-5. Cover the framed floor with ¾-inch plywood.\\nThe plywood will form the flooring of the shed. Cut your ¾-inch plywood sheets so that they’ll fit together and seamlessly cover the framed flooring. Then, attach the plywood to the joists with 1 5/8-inch screws. Drive 1 screw into each skid beam every 1 foot (0.30 m).\\nUse treated or sealed plywood so that you don’t get splinters in your bare feet when walking on the flooring.\\n2. Erecting the Side, Front, and Back Walls\\n2-1. Frame\\nFrame each wall by nailing together 2 2x4 beams for the top and sides. The bottom of the wall should be a single 2x4 beam. Be sure to measure each beam before cutting or nailing them together so that the walls will be properly framed. For example, let’s say you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed. You’ll need to frame:\\n2 192 in × 81 in (490 cm × 210 cm) side walls.\\n1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) back wall.\\n1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) front wall\\n2-2. Attach joists at 22 inches (56 cm) intervals within each framed wall.\\nUse a circular saw to cut the 2x4 beams to the correct height of 81 inches (210 cm). Then, attach the wall joists to the doubled-up 2x4s of the frame using 2 ½-inch screws. Drill a pilot hole before screwing in the screws to make them slide in a little easier.\\nThe framed wall should approximately resemble the framed floor (before the plywood was put on).\\n2-3. Leave a 21 in (53 cm) gap in the front wall for your door.\\nRegardless of the size of your shed, leave enough room for a standard-sized door so you won’t need to alter the size of the door. Double up 2 2x6 boards on either side of the door opening so that the gap will be reinforced. The doubled-up studs will also give you material to screw the doorframe into.\\nOnce your shed is assembled, you can hang a door in the gap you’ve created in the front wall.\\n2-4. Raise and attach the side walls with 2 ½-inch screws.\\nLift up the 2 side walls and set them in place on the 2 sides of the framed floor, making sure that the edges and corners of the walls align with the edges of the floor. Then, drive 2 ½-inch screws through the bottom beams of the walls. Drive the screws directly into the floor. Space each screw 8 inches (20 cm) apart.\\nUse a level and a carpenter’s square throughout this process to ensure that the walls are level and all corners are square.\\n2-5. Raise and attach the front and back walls with 2 ½-inch screws.\\nOnce the side walls have been attached in place, you’re ready to attach the front and back walls. Raise the walls and set them in place in between the 2 side walls. Drive 2 ½-inch screws into the sides of the front and back walls where they butt up against the side walls every 8 inches (20 cm). Drive screws through the front and back walls’ bottom boards at the same distance.\\nThis will attach the front, back, and side walls all securely together, and also anchor the walls firmly to the floor.\\nIf you like, you can add vintage stained glass windows to make it look stylish.\\n2-6. Attach siding to the 4 walls.\\nOnce the walls have been framed and are set in place, you’re ready to attach the outer siding. Measure the final dimensions of each wall, and cut the siding to size using a circular saw. Then attach the cut siding to the walls with 2-inch nails. Space the nails out by about 12 inches (30 cm), and drive them directly into the joists on each wall.\\nPurchase siding at a local home-supply store or hardware store. You can choose the color of the siding.\\nSince lean to sheds are primarily used for storage, you shouldn’t need to insulate the shed walls.\\n3. Building the Shed Roof\\n3-1. Frame the top-side wall of the lean to roof with 2x4 lumber.\\nSince a side wall of the shed will be higher than the other side, you’ll need to construct a small add-on wall for the side. The add-on wall should be 192 inches (490 cm) wide, but only 34.75 inches (88.3 cm) tall. Frame the top, bottom, and sides of the wall using 2x4 lumber, and attach joists between the top and bottom every 22.5 inches (57 cm) using 3 ½-inch screws.\\nThe sloped roof of the lean to shed will allow water and snow to run off to one side of the roof without soaking into the wood.\\n3-2. Screw the add-on wall to the top of 1 side of the shed.\\nSelect which side of your shed you’d like to be higher than the other. Then, set the add-on wall on the side you’d like to be elevated. Attach it to the top framing of the side wall using 2 ½-inch screws.\\nSpace the screws out by 8 inches (20 cm).\\n3-3. Cut rafters\\nEach rafter should be 168 inches (430 cm) long in order to cover the sloping roof and hang off of the far side. Then, use the circular saw to cut a 1 by 3.5 inches (2.5 cm × 8.9 cm) notch 10.25 inches (26.0 cm) from the top of each rafter. Cut another 1 by 4.25 inches (2.5 cm × 10.8 cm) notch 11.75 inches (29.8 cm) from the bottom of each rafter.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your rafters, and make sure that they’re all uniform.\\nIf you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, you’ll need 9 rafters.\\n3-4. Fit the rafters in place on top of your roof.\\nSpace each rafter 24 inches (61 cm) away from the adjacent rafters. If you’ve made your rafter cuts correctly, the rafters should all fit snugly in place and slope evenly from the higher-side wall down over the lower-side wall.\\n3-5. Attach the rafters to the walls using collar ties.\\nUse 2-3 2-inch nails to attach a collar tie to each rafter about 2 feet (0.61 m) from where it rests on the wall. Then, drive another 2-3 nails into the vertical joists on the side wall add-on. These ties will hold the rafters in place and also stop them from exerting downward pressure on the side walls of the lean to shed.\\nYou can purchase collar ties at a large hardware store or at a home-supply store.\\n3-6. Insert 5 support beams on the front and back of the shed to hold up the sloping roof.\\nUse a circular saw to cut 2x4 beams into support beams. These support beams will hold up the rafters on the sides of the roof. Cut the support beams and insert them under the roof. Each support beam should be spaced 20.5 inches (52 cm) apart from the adjacent support beams. The 5 support beams should be cut to these specifications:\\n6 inches (15 cm) tall.\\n12.5 inches (32 cm) tall.\\n18.75 inches (47.6 cm) tall.\\n25.25 inches (64.1 cm) tall.\\n31.75 inches (80.6 cm) tall.\\n3-7. Cut siding panels for the back, front, and high side of the shed.\\nMeasure the uncovered gaps on the upper portions of the shed, and use a circular saw to cut siding sections of corresponding sizes. Keep in mind that the siding panels that cover the front and back of the shed will need to be cut at the same angle as the rafters, in order to provide full coverage.\\nThe low side of the shed won’t need a siding panel cut for it, since the roof will come down to the side of the shed.\\n3-8. Attach the siding panels using 2-inch nails.\\nOnce the siding panels are cut to size, attach them to the add-on side wall and the support beams on the front and back walls. Drive 2-inch nails into the joists and support beams to hold the siding firmly in place.\\nMake sure that this siding matches the color of the siding you used for the 4 walls.\\n3-9. Screw ¾-inch sheets of plywood to the top of the roof.\\nFor the shed’s roof, purchase large sheets of plywood that are 96 by 48 inches (240 cm × 120 cm) in size. Use 1 5/8-inch screws to secure the plywood sections firmly in place. Drive screws straight down through the plywood and into the rafter beams. Space each screw out by 8 inches (20 cm).\\nTo use gravity to your advantage, start nailing plywood to the roof at its lowest point. This way, gravity will pull the higher plywood sections into place.\\nIf you were to start nailing plywood at the highest point of the roof, gravity would pull lower portions off of the rafters.\\n3-10. Paint or stain the walls and roof of the shed to finish them.\\nYou can also paint the door. Stain will draw out the natural color of the wood, while paint will cover over the wood. Whichever you choose, use a 3 in (7.6 cm) paintbrush to apply 3-4 coats of the paint or stain to the sides and top of the shed.\\nGive the paint or stain at least 48 hours to dry before you touch it.\\nYou can even put some lighting inside the shed to give a flair to it.\\nTips\\nThe size of the lean to shed is up to you. Small sheds are typically 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m), while larger lean to sheds can be 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m).\\nYou may want to wear leather work gloves while working with lumber to prevent splinters and cuts.\\nIf you find that hammering in individual nails with a nail gun is too time consuming, try using an air gun instead. You can buy one at a local hardware store.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A lean to shed is a great structure to keep in your backyard and fill with gardening supplies, landscaping tools, or whatever else you need to store. You can build a lean to shed relatively inexpensively with materials purchased at a local hardware or home-supply store. Since a lean to shed is relatively small and lightweight, you won’t need to worry about pouring a concrete foundation. As its name suggests, the roof of a lean to shed slopes down from the rear, rather than peaking in the center.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Shed’s Floor\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the joists to the intended width of your shed.\", \"描述\": \"Joists are the cross-beams that will lie on the ground and hold together the outer framing of the floor. Use 2x6 lumber for the joists. For example, if you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, cut each of your joists to 16 feet (4.9 m). Use a circular saw to cut the joists.\\nIf you’d rather not cut the joists yourself, you could have the lumber cut at the hardware store from which you bought the lumber.\\nTake safety precautions when using a circular saw. Wear protective eyewear, always cut away from yourself, and never set the circular saw down while the blade is still spinning.\\nUse treated lumber for the joists since the lumber may be in direct contact with the earth.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Lay out the front and back beams of the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2x6 treated lumber for these beams as well. The front and back beams will provide the outline of your shed’s floor.\\nIf the beams aren’t already the intended length of your shed, use a circular saw to cut them to the shed’s length, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Fasten the joists to the floor beams using 3 ½-inch galvanized screws.\", \"描述\": \"Lay out each of your cut floor joists between the front and back flooring beams. Leave 14 inches (36 cm) between each of the floor joists. Once the joists are laid out, use a screwdriver to drive a 3 ½-inch screw through the front flooring board and into each joist. Then, drive screws through the back flooring board into each joist.\\nIf you’re struggling to insert screws directly through the joist boards, drill a pilot hole to screw each screw into.\\nThe number of joists you’ll need will depend on the total length of your shed. If you’re building a shed with a width of 8 feet (2.4 m), you’ll only need 6 or 7 joists. If you’re building a larger shed with a width of 16 feet (4.9 m), you’ll need 13 or 14 joists.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach 4 skid beams to the floor.\", \"描述\": \"The skid beams should be made of 4x4 treated lumber. Each skid beam should run the full length of the shed, e.g., 16 feet (4.9 m). This means that each skid beam will be the same length as the front and back floor planks. The photo shows the skid beams on top of the floor joists, but once attached they should be underneath supporting the entire weight of the shed. Cut the skids if necessary, and attach them across the joists using metal connectors.\\nUse treated lumber for the skid beams since the lumber will be in direct contact with the earth.\\nSkids sit under the floor joists and provide a stable foundation for the shed to rest on. Skids rest directly on the earth, or on concrete foundation blocks.\\nEither attach the skid beams as shown and then flip the entire floor over (HEAVY - this is at least a two-person operation), or lift up one side of the floor framing and slide the skid beams into position before attaching.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Cover the framed floor with ¾-inch plywood.\", \"描述\": \"The plywood will form the flooring of the shed. Cut your ¾-inch plywood sheets so that they’ll fit together and seamlessly cover the framed flooring. Then, attach the plywood to the joists with 1 5/8-inch screws. Drive 1 screw into each skid beam every 1 foot (0.30 m).\\nUse treated or sealed plywood so that you don’t get splinters in your bare feet when walking on the flooring.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Erecting the Side, Front, and Back Walls\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Frame\", \"描述\": \"Frame each wall by nailing together 2 2x4 beams for the top and sides. The bottom of the wall should be a single 2x4 beam. Be sure to measure each beam before cutting or nailing them together so that the walls will be properly framed. For example, let’s say you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed. You’ll need to frame:\\n2 192 in × 81 in (490 cm × 210 cm) side walls.\\n1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) back wall.\\n1 144 in × 81 in (370 cm × 210 cm) front wall\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach joists at 22 inches (56 cm) intervals within each framed wall.\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw to cut the 2x4 beams to the correct height of 81 inches (210 cm). Then, attach the wall joists to the doubled-up 2x4s of the frame using 2 ½-inch screws. Drill a pilot hole before screwing in the screws to make them slide in a little easier.\\nThe framed wall should approximately resemble the framed floor (before the plywood was put on).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Leave a 21 in (53 cm) gap in the front wall for your door.\", \"描述\": \"Regardless of the size of your shed, leave enough room for a standard-sized door so you won’t need to alter the size of the door. Double up 2 2x6 boards on either side of the door opening so that the gap will be reinforced. The doubled-up studs will also give you material to screw the doorframe into.\\nOnce your shed is assembled, you can hang a door in the gap you’ve created in the front wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Raise and attach the side walls with 2 ½-inch screws.\", \"描述\": \"Lift up the 2 side walls and set them in place on the 2 sides of the framed floor, making sure that the edges and corners of the walls align with the edges of the floor. Then, drive 2 ½-inch screws through the bottom beams of the walls. Drive the screws directly into the floor. Space each screw 8 inches (20 cm) apart.\\nUse a level and a carpenter’s square throughout this process to ensure that the walls are level and all corners are square.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Raise and attach the front and back walls with 2 ½-inch screws.\", \"描述\": \"Once the side walls have been attached in place, you’re ready to attach the front and back walls. Raise the walls and set them in place in between the 2 side walls. Drive 2 ½-inch screws into the sides of the front and back walls where they butt up against the side walls every 8 inches (20 cm). Drive screws through the front and back walls’ bottom boards at the same distance.\\nThis will attach the front, back, and side walls all securely together, and also anchor the walls firmly to the floor.\\nIf you like, you can add vintage stained glass windows to make it look stylish.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach siding to the 4 walls.\", \"描述\": \"Once the walls have been framed and are set in place, you’re ready to attach the outer siding. Measure the final dimensions of each wall, and cut the siding to size using a circular saw. Then attach the cut siding to the walls with 2-inch nails. Space the nails out by about 12 inches (30 cm), and drive them directly into the joists on each wall.\\nPurchase siding at a local home-supply store or hardware store. You can choose the color of the siding.\\nSince lean to sheds are primarily used for storage, you shouldn’t need to insulate the shed walls.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Building the Shed Roof\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Frame the top-side wall of the lean to roof with 2x4 lumber.\", \"描述\": \"Since a side wall of the shed will be higher than the other side, you’ll need to construct a small add-on wall for the side. The add-on wall should be 192 inches (490 cm) wide, but only 34.75 inches (88.3 cm) tall. Frame the top, bottom, and sides of the wall using 2x4 lumber, and attach joists between the top and bottom every 22.5 inches (57 cm) using 3 ½-inch screws.\\nThe sloped roof of the lean to shed will allow water and snow to run off to one side of the roof without soaking into the wood.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Screw the add-on wall to the top of 1 side of the shed.\", \"描述\": \"Select which side of your shed you’d like to be higher than the other. Then, set the add-on wall on the side you’d like to be elevated. Attach it to the top framing of the side wall using 2 ½-inch screws.\\nSpace the screws out by 8 inches (20 cm).\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut rafters\", \"描述\": \"Each rafter should be 168 inches (430 cm) long in order to cover the sloping roof and hang off of the far side. Then, use the circular saw to cut a 1 by 3.5 inches (2.5 cm × 8.9 cm) notch 10.25 inches (26.0 cm) from the top of each rafter. Cut another 1 by 4.25 inches (2.5 cm × 10.8 cm) notch 11.75 inches (29.8 cm) from the bottom of each rafter.\\nUse a circular saw to cut your rafters, and make sure that they’re all uniform.\\nIf you’re building a 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m) shed, you’ll need 9 rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Fit the rafters in place on top of your roof.\", \"描述\": \"Space each rafter 24 inches (61 cm) away from the adjacent rafters. If you’ve made your rafter cuts correctly, the rafters should all fit snugly in place and slope evenly from the higher-side wall down over the lower-side wall.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the rafters to the walls using collar ties.\", \"描述\": \"Use 2-3 2-inch nails to attach a collar tie to each rafter about 2 feet (0.61 m) from where it rests on the wall. Then, drive another 2-3 nails into the vertical joists on the side wall add-on. These ties will hold the rafters in place and also stop them from exerting downward pressure on the side walls of the lean to shed.\\nYou can purchase collar ties at a large hardware store or at a home-supply store.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Insert 5 support beams on the front and back of the shed to hold up the sloping roof.\", \"描述\": \"Use a circular saw to cut 2x4 beams into support beams. These support beams will hold up the rafters on the sides of the roof. Cut the support beams and insert them under the roof. Each support beam should be spaced 20.5 inches (52 cm) apart from the adjacent support beams. The 5 support beams should be cut to these specifications:\\n6 inches (15 cm) tall.\\n12.5 inches (32 cm) tall.\\n18.75 inches (47.6 cm) tall.\\n25.25 inches (64.1 cm) tall.\\n31.75 inches (80.6 cm) tall.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Cut siding panels for the back, front, and high side of the shed.\", \"描述\": \"Measure the uncovered gaps on the upper portions of the shed, and use a circular saw to cut siding sections of corresponding sizes. Keep in mind that the siding panels that cover the front and back of the shed will need to be cut at the same angle as the rafters, in order to provide full coverage.\\nThe low side of the shed won’t need a siding panel cut for it, since the roof will come down to the side of the shed.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Attach the siding panels using 2-inch nails.\", \"描述\": \"Once the siding panels are cut to size, attach them to the add-on side wall and the support beams on the front and back walls. Drive 2-inch nails into the joists and support beams to hold the siding firmly in place.\\nMake sure that this siding matches the color of the siding you used for the 4 walls.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Screw ¾-inch sheets of plywood to the top of the roof.\", \"描述\": \"For the shed’s roof, purchase large sheets of plywood that are 96 by 48 inches (240 cm × 120 cm) in size. Use 1 5/8-inch screws to secure the plywood sections firmly in place. Drive screws straight down through the plywood and into the rafter beams. Space each screw out by 8 inches (20 cm).\\nTo use gravity to your advantage, start nailing plywood to the roof at its lowest point. This way, gravity will pull the higher plywood sections into place.\\nIf you were to start nailing plywood at the highest point of the roof, gravity would pull lower portions off of the rafters.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Paint or stain the walls and roof of the shed to finish them.\", \"描述\": \"You can also paint the door. Stain will draw out the natural color of the wood, while paint will cover over the wood. Whichever you choose, use a 3 in (7.6 cm) paintbrush to apply 3-4 coats of the paint or stain to the sides and top of the shed.\\nGive the paint or stain at least 48 hours to dry before you touch it.\\nYou can even put some lighting inside the shed to give a flair to it.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The size of the lean to shed is up to you. Small sheds are typically 4 by 8 feet (1.2 m × 2.4 m), while larger lean to sheds can be 12 by 16 feet (3.7 m × 4.9 m).\\n\", \"You may want to wear leather work gloves while working with lumber to prevent splinters and cuts.\\n\", \"If you find that hammering in individual nails with a nail gun is too time consuming, try using an air gun instead. You can buy one at a local hardware store.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,410
How to Build a Liquid Cooling System for Your Computer
1. Planning Your System 1-1. Understand the water cooling components. Water block: The water block is attached to component to be cooled. It is responsible for transferring heat away from the component and into the liquid. Radiator: The radiator transfers heat from the liquid into the ambient air. Radiators run water through pipes that transfer heat to metal fins and fans blow air to draw heat away from the fins. Radiators vary both in the size and number of fans. Fans push air though radiators, actively exchanging heat from the system with the ambient air. These vary in size ranging from 40mm to 200mm, but the most common fan size for radiators is 120mm. Reservoir: The reservoir holds reserve liquid, provides a visual gauge for determining liquid loss in the system, and provides an easy fill point for the system. Pump: The pump pushes the liquid through the system. Though pumps are often incorporated into reservoirs, a separate pump may be needed for large or complicated systems. Thermal paste: Thermal paste provides better conduction between the components and the heat sink or water block. The paste eliminates air gaps which would impede thermal conduction. Tubing: Tubing directs fluid from component to component. Tubing is generally sold as flexible PVC, though other materials such as Neoprene and rigid acrylic are also used. Tubing is often labeled with two measurements an inner diameter followed by an outer diameter. The inner diameter is used for finding compatibility for tube fitting barbs which attach the tubing to each of the components and the out diameter is needed to purchase compatible clamps. 1-2. Determine your cooling needs. There is a massive range in the complexity, performance, and price of a liquid cooling system. Simple kits can consist of only a water block and radiator (pictured) where complex builds can contain multiple branches for CPUs, GPUs, and RAM. The following instructions assume a single loop system with a single water block, radiator, pump and reservoir. 1-3. Set your budget. As a result, liquid cooling installations can range in price from around $100 for a basic setup to several thousand dollars for high end enthusiast builds. The build above includes of the components assumed in the following instructions, but the specific parts are included only as an example and you should tailor the parts you buy to your desired system. 1-4. Take measurements of your case. Cases can vary in sizes ranging from MicroATX to ATX Super Tower. In some cases, a liquid cooling system can allow more compact computing systems by eliminating the need for air space, but such systems need to be designed carefully and go beyond the scope of this article. A case of at least ATX Mid-Tower is recommended. Also, ensure that your case will have adequate air flow after installation of your system. A good liquid cooling system will just become a water heater if air can't flow through the system. 1-5. Determine what systems can work with your current setup. Power: ensure that you power supply can handle the additional load created, check the How to check a power supply for details. Socket: CPUs come in a variety of different sockets, ensure that the water block in your system is designed to fit your CPU socket. Your socket type should be listed with your motherboard and CPU documentation. 1-6. Design your entire system before buying any components. Sending back parts can be time consuming and costly. A drawing, even a crude illustration, can assist in visualizing your build. Ensure that all parts in the system are compatible with each other and that you have all the needed power connectors available from your power supply. 1-7. Choose liquid. Coolants are the active carrier of heat in the system. Many systems use distilled water, which is cheap and easy to replace; however, water can cause an electric short if the system develops a leak and organisms can grow in the system if a biocide is not implemented. If you desire colored or fluorescent liquid ensure that dyes are certified for use in liquid cooling systems or use a pre-mixed fluid from a certified vendor. Otherwise the dyes and additives can congeal and clog the system. 1-8. Purchase everything you've decided upon. Many general purpose electronics vendors sell liquid cooling kits and there are at least a couple of websites which have a wide selection of liquid cooling components for sale. Also many manufacturers allow you to purchase directly from their website. 2. Installing Your System 2-1. Lay the system out first. Any clear and clean surface large enough to spread the parts out will suffice, but a plain white bed sheet is especially useful as it will aid in keeping track of small parts. Ensure that all pieces are present before proceeding further. 2-2. Remove the previous cooling system. The previous heat sink and thermal paste will need to be removed. Use a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol to remove the previous paste. 2-3. Make space for new system. Many reservoirs fit in 5.25" drive bays, but may require the front plates be taken off in advance. There may be cover plates on the case where radiators can be mounted, ensure the cover plate is removed and ensure all tube ports are clear. Manage cables to be a neat as possible. Poor cable management can limit access to components and impede air flow through the system, decreasing cooling performance. 2-4. Install water block(s). Apply only the manufacturer recommended amount of thermal paste—a single rice grain's worth should be enough. Then, clean up any excess when placing the water block onto the CPU. If the water block is secured by screws, tighten the screws incrementally in a cross pattern, otherwise, uneven pressures could damage the CPU. 2-5. Install radiator. Ensure a solid attachment to the case and double check airflow from the front and back ends of the radiator. 2-6. Install reservoir and pump. If your reservoir or pump are free standing, ensure that they properly secured to your case and does not impede airflow. 2-7. Attach tubes and tube clamps. Slide tube clamps onto the tube "before" attaching the tube ends. Though the goal should be to minimize the total tube length in the system, your top priority is to ensure that the tube does not kink. Kinks drastically reduce system performance and will put undue stress on your pump. Always err on the side of using too much tubing as a length of tubing can always be cut shorter, but never made longer. 2-8. Connect power cables. Ensure that the pump and radiator are connected to your power supply as well as any lights that may have come with your system. Use the paper clips tester from part 1 of How to Check a Power Supply to power the liquid cooling system without powering on the main computer. This way, if a leak is to form, the computer is at less of a risk of shorting out. But before you turn the system on. . . 3. Finishing Up 3-1. Inspect the system. Ensure that every clamp is secure and the tubing and components are free of cracks and other damage. 3-2. Fill with liquid. Fill the reservoir only until approximately 90% full to prevent back splash in the event of system pressure or heat expansion in the fluid. 3-3. Power on system: Once the system is powered on the reservoir will likely be drained as the system itself is filled. When this happens, power off the system and refill the reservoir until it is 90% full again. 3-4. Run for 24 hours, watching for leaks or drops in system fluid. Listen for excess noise from your pump or radiator. Some noise is a sign that the parts are working, but sounds of the part straining or clicking from misalignment can indicate a problem. 3-5. Run whole system, checking temperatures. Now connect the computer power cables for normal operation and power the system on. Check your system temperatures under heavy system load to ensure your cooling system is performing well. Tips Check, recheck and check again making sure you have all your tubing, clamps, barbs, and enough spare molex adapters for your system before starting assembly. Start simple, you can always add to the system later if you want to. When in doubt don't cheap out. A failure caused by a substandard part can cause a lot of expensive damage. Warnings Do not test a pump without liquid in it as this can cause damage to some of the parts or heat damage to components. Never use deionized water for cooling as this will corrode metal components. Be aware of the types of metals used in your system's parts. Mixed metals can create a corrosion risk, especially when using water as your coolant.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your System\\n1-1. Understand the water cooling components.\\nWater block: The water block is attached to component to be cooled. It is responsible for transferring heat away from the component and into the liquid.\\nRadiator: The radiator transfers heat from the liquid into the ambient air. Radiators run water through pipes that transfer heat to metal fins and fans blow air to draw heat away from the fins. Radiators vary both in the size and number of fans.\\nFans push air though radiators, actively exchanging heat from the system with the ambient air. These vary in size ranging from 40mm to 200mm, but the most common fan size for radiators is 120mm.\\nReservoir: The reservoir holds reserve liquid, provides a visual gauge for determining liquid loss in the system, and provides an easy fill point for the system.\\nPump: The pump pushes the liquid through the system. Though pumps are often incorporated into reservoirs, a separate pump may be needed for large or complicated systems.\\nThermal paste: Thermal paste provides better conduction between the components and the heat sink or water block. The paste eliminates air gaps which would impede thermal conduction.\\nTubing: Tubing directs fluid from component to component. Tubing is generally sold as flexible PVC, though other materials such as Neoprene and rigid acrylic are also used. Tubing is often labeled with two measurements an inner diameter followed by an outer diameter. The inner diameter is used for finding compatibility for tube fitting barbs which attach the tubing to each of the components and the out diameter is needed to purchase compatible clamps.\\n1-2. Determine your cooling needs.\\nThere is a massive range in the complexity, performance, and price of a liquid cooling system. Simple kits can consist of only a water block and radiator (pictured) where complex builds can contain multiple branches for CPUs, GPUs, and RAM. The following instructions assume a single loop system with a single water block, radiator, pump and reservoir.\\n1-3. Set your budget.\\nAs a result, liquid cooling installations can range in price from around $100 for a basic setup to several thousand dollars for high end enthusiast builds. The build above includes of the components assumed in the following instructions, but the specific parts are included only as an example and you should tailor the parts you buy to your desired system.\\n1-4. Take measurements of your case.\\nCases can vary in sizes ranging from MicroATX to ATX Super Tower. In some cases, a liquid cooling system can allow more compact computing systems by eliminating the need for air space, but such systems need to be designed carefully and go beyond the scope of this article. A case of at least ATX Mid-Tower is recommended. Also, ensure that your case will have adequate air flow after installation of your system. A good liquid cooling system will just become a water heater if air can't flow through the system.\\n1-5. Determine what systems can work with your current setup.\\nPower: ensure that you power supply can handle the additional load created, check the How to check a power supply for details.\\nSocket: CPUs come in a variety of different sockets, ensure that the water block in your system is designed to fit your CPU socket. Your socket type should be listed with your motherboard and CPU documentation.\\n1-6. Design your entire system before buying any components.\\nSending back parts can be time consuming and costly. A drawing, even a crude illustration, can assist in visualizing your build. Ensure that all parts in the system are compatible with each other and that you have all the needed power connectors available from your power supply.\\n1-7. Choose liquid.\\nCoolants are the active carrier of heat in the system. Many systems use distilled water, which is cheap and easy to replace; however, water can cause an electric short if the system develops a leak and organisms can grow in the system if a biocide is not implemented. If you desire colored or fluorescent liquid ensure that dyes are certified for use in liquid cooling systems or use a pre-mixed fluid from a certified vendor. Otherwise the dyes and additives can congeal and clog the system.\\n1-8. Purchase everything you've decided upon.\\nMany general purpose electronics vendors sell liquid cooling kits and there are at least a couple of websites which have a wide selection of liquid cooling components for sale. Also many manufacturers allow you to purchase directly from their website.\\n2. Installing Your System\\n2-1. Lay the system out first.\\nAny clear and clean surface large enough to spread the parts out will suffice, but a plain white bed sheet is especially useful as it will aid in keeping track of small parts. Ensure that all pieces are present before proceeding further.\\n2-2. Remove the previous cooling system.\\nThe previous heat sink and thermal paste will need to be removed. Use a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol to remove the previous paste.\\n2-3. Make space for new system.\\nMany reservoirs fit in 5.25\\\" drive bays, but may require the front plates be taken off in advance.\\nThere may be cover plates on the case where radiators can be mounted, ensure the cover plate is removed and ensure all tube ports are clear.\\nManage cables to be a neat as possible. Poor cable management can limit access to components and impede air flow through the system, decreasing cooling performance.\\n2-4. Install water block(s).\\nApply only the manufacturer recommended amount of thermal paste—a single rice grain's worth should be enough. Then, clean up any excess when placing the water block onto the CPU.\\nIf the water block is secured by screws, tighten the screws incrementally in a cross pattern, otherwise, uneven pressures could damage the CPU.\\n2-5. Install radiator.\\nEnsure a solid attachment to the case and double check airflow from the front and back ends of the radiator.\\n2-6. Install reservoir and pump.\\nIf your reservoir or pump are free standing, ensure that they properly secured to your case and does not impede airflow.\\n2-7. Attach tubes and tube clamps.\\nSlide tube clamps onto the tube \\\"before\\\" attaching the tube ends. Though the goal should be to minimize the total tube length in the system, your top priority is to ensure that the tube does not kink. Kinks drastically reduce system performance and will put undue stress on your pump. Always err on the side of using too much tubing as a length of tubing can always be cut shorter, but never made longer.\\n2-8. Connect power cables.\\nEnsure that the pump and radiator are connected to your power supply as well as any lights that may have come with your system. Use the paper clips tester from part 1 of How to Check a Power Supply to power the liquid cooling system without powering on the main computer. This way, if a leak is to form, the computer is at less of a risk of shorting out. But before you turn the system on. . .\\n3. Finishing Up\\n3-1. Inspect the system.\\nEnsure that every clamp is secure and the tubing and components are free of cracks and other damage.\\n3-2. Fill with liquid.\\nFill the reservoir only until approximately 90% full to prevent back splash in the event of system pressure or heat expansion in the fluid.\\n3-3. Power on system:\\nOnce the system is powered on the reservoir will likely be drained as the system itself is filled. When this happens, power off the system and refill the reservoir until it is 90% full again.\\n3-4. Run for 24 hours, watching for leaks or drops in system fluid.\\nListen for excess noise from your pump or radiator. Some noise is a sign that the parts are working, but sounds of the part straining or clicking from misalignment can indicate a problem.\\n3-5. Run whole system, checking temperatures.\\nNow connect the computer power cables for normal operation and power the system on. Check your system temperatures under heavy system load to ensure your cooling system is performing well.\\nTips\\nCheck, recheck and check again making sure you have all your tubing, clamps, barbs, and enough spare molex adapters for your system before starting assembly.\\nStart simple, you can always add to the system later if you want to.\\nWhen in doubt don't cheap out. A failure caused by a substandard part can cause a lot of expensive damage.\\nWarnings\\nDo not test a pump without liquid in it as this can cause damage to some of the parts or heat damage to components.\\nNever use deionized water for cooling as this will corrode metal components.\\nBe aware of the types of metals used in your system's parts. Mixed metals can create a corrosion risk, especially when using water as your coolant.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a custom liquid-cooled gaming PC allows you more precise temperature control over your CPU, even if you're pushing it to the limit through overclocking. Whether you want a basic water-cooling loop or something more elaborate, you might be surprised how fun it is to build your own liquid cooling system! Our guide will walk you through how to get started making your own water-cooled gaming PC.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Understand the water cooling components.\", \"描述\": \"Water block: The water block is attached to component to be cooled. It is responsible for transferring heat away from the component and into the liquid.\\nRadiator: The radiator transfers heat from the liquid into the ambient air. Radiators run water through pipes that transfer heat to metal fins and fans blow air to draw heat away from the fins. Radiators vary both in the size and number of fans.\\nFans push air though radiators, actively exchanging heat from the system with the ambient air. These vary in size ranging from 40mm to 200mm, but the most common fan size for radiators is 120mm.\\nReservoir: The reservoir holds reserve liquid, provides a visual gauge for determining liquid loss in the system, and provides an easy fill point for the system.\\nPump: The pump pushes the liquid through the system. Though pumps are often incorporated into reservoirs, a separate pump may be needed for large or complicated systems.\\nThermal paste: Thermal paste provides better conduction between the components and the heat sink or water block. The paste eliminates air gaps which would impede thermal conduction.\\nTubing: Tubing directs fluid from component to component. Tubing is generally sold as flexible PVC, though other materials such as Neoprene and rigid acrylic are also used. Tubing is often labeled with two measurements an inner diameter followed by an outer diameter. The inner diameter is used for finding compatibility for tube fitting barbs which attach the tubing to each of the components and the out diameter is needed to purchase compatible clamps.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine your cooling needs.\", \"描述\": \"There is a massive range in the complexity, performance, and price of a liquid cooling system. Simple kits can consist of only a water block and radiator (pictured) where complex builds can contain multiple branches for CPUs, GPUs, and RAM. The following instructions assume a single loop system with a single water block, radiator, pump and reservoir.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set your budget.\", \"描述\": \"As a result, liquid cooling installations can range in price from around $100 for a basic setup to several thousand dollars for high end enthusiast builds. The build above includes of the components assumed in the following instructions, but the specific parts are included only as an example and you should tailor the parts you buy to your desired system.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Take measurements of your case.\", \"描述\": \"Cases can vary in sizes ranging from MicroATX to ATX Super Tower. In some cases, a liquid cooling system can allow more compact computing systems by eliminating the need for air space, but such systems need to be designed carefully and go beyond the scope of this article. A case of at least ATX Mid-Tower is recommended. Also, ensure that your case will have adequate air flow after installation of your system. A good liquid cooling system will just become a water heater if air can't flow through the system.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Determine what systems can work with your current setup.\", \"描述\": \"Power: ensure that you power supply can handle the additional load created, check the How to check a power supply for details.\\nSocket: CPUs come in a variety of different sockets, ensure that the water block in your system is designed to fit your CPU socket. Your socket type should be listed with your motherboard and CPU documentation.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Design your entire system before buying any components.\", \"描述\": \"Sending back parts can be time consuming and costly. A drawing, even a crude illustration, can assist in visualizing your build. Ensure that all parts in the system are compatible with each other and that you have all the needed power connectors available from your power supply.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Choose liquid.\", \"描述\": \"Coolants are the active carrier of heat in the system. Many systems use distilled water, which is cheap and easy to replace; however, water can cause an electric short if the system develops a leak and organisms can grow in the system if a biocide is not implemented. If you desire colored or fluorescent liquid ensure that dyes are certified for use in liquid cooling systems or use a pre-mixed fluid from a certified vendor. Otherwise the dyes and additives can congeal and clog the system.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Purchase everything you've decided upon.\", \"描述\": \"Many general purpose electronics vendors sell liquid cooling kits and there are at least a couple of websites which have a wide selection of liquid cooling components for sale. Also many manufacturers allow you to purchase directly from their website.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Installing Your System\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Lay the system out first.\", \"描述\": \"Any clear and clean surface large enough to spread the parts out will suffice, but a plain white bed sheet is especially useful as it will aid in keeping track of small parts. Ensure that all pieces are present before proceeding further.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Remove the previous cooling system.\", \"描述\": \"The previous heat sink and thermal paste will need to be removed. Use a cotton swab and isopropyl alcohol to remove the previous paste.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Make space for new system.\", \"描述\": \"Many reservoirs fit in 5.25\\\" drive bays, but may require the front plates be taken off in advance.\\nThere may be cover plates on the case where radiators can be mounted, ensure the cover plate is removed and ensure all tube ports are clear.\\nManage cables to be a neat as possible. Poor cable management can limit access to components and impede air flow through the system, decreasing cooling performance.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Install water block(s).\", \"描述\": \"Apply only the manufacturer recommended amount of thermal paste—a single rice grain's worth should be enough. Then, clean up any excess when placing the water block onto the CPU.\\nIf the water block is secured by screws, tighten the screws incrementally in a cross pattern, otherwise, uneven pressures could damage the CPU.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install radiator.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure a solid attachment to the case and double check airflow from the front and back ends of the radiator.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Install reservoir and pump.\", \"描述\": \"If your reservoir or pump are free standing, ensure that they properly secured to your case and does not impede airflow.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach tubes and tube clamps.\", \"描述\": \"Slide tube clamps onto the tube \\\"before\\\" attaching the tube ends. Though the goal should be to minimize the total tube length in the system, your top priority is to ensure that the tube does not kink. Kinks drastically reduce system performance and will put undue stress on your pump. Always err on the side of using too much tubing as a length of tubing can always be cut shorter, but never made longer.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Connect power cables.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure that the pump and radiator are connected to your power supply as well as any lights that may have come with your system. Use the paper clips tester from part 1 of How to Check a Power Supply to power the liquid cooling system without powering on the main computer. This way, if a leak is to form, the computer is at less of a risk of shorting out. But before you turn the system on. . .\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing Up\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Inspect the system.\", \"描述\": \"Ensure that every clamp is secure and the tubing and components are free of cracks and other damage.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Fill with liquid.\", \"描述\": \"Fill the reservoir only until approximately 90% full to prevent back splash in the event of system pressure or heat expansion in the fluid.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Power on system:\", \"描述\": \"Once the system is powered on the reservoir will likely be drained as the system itself is filled. When this happens, power off the system and refill the reservoir until it is 90% full again.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Run for 24 hours, watching for leaks or drops in system fluid.\", \"描述\": \"Listen for excess noise from your pump or radiator. Some noise is a sign that the parts are working, but sounds of the part straining or clicking from misalignment can indicate a problem.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Run whole system, checking temperatures.\", \"描述\": \"Now connect the computer power cables for normal operation and power the system on. Check your system temperatures under heavy system load to ensure your cooling system is performing well.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Check, recheck and check again making sure you have all your tubing, clamps, barbs, and enough spare molex adapters for your system before starting assembly.\\n\", \"Start simple, you can always add to the system later if you want to.\\n\", \"When in doubt don't cheap out. A failure caused by a substandard part can cause a lot of expensive damage.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Do not test a pump without liquid in it as this can cause damage to some of the parts or heat damage to components.\\n\", \"Never use deionized water for cooling as this will corrode metal components.\\n\", \"Be aware of the types of metals used in your system's parts. Mixed metals can create a corrosion risk, especially when using water as your coolant.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,411
How to Build a Livestock Fence
1. Steps 1-1. Determine or know what livestock you own or will potentially have to help you consider what your fencing needs will be. Most fences are suited for a variety of farm animal species, but ideally you shouldn't waste money on building something that will end up being what you don't need or is not enough to hold in the animals you are wanting to keep. For example, you shouldn't put up chicken wire if you're only going to have cattle, nor should you install cattle panels for chickens, goats or pigs. Chicken wire is best for chickens and other poultry and other small stock, and cattle panels are best for cattle and horses. With that in mind, you must also understand the risks of having a particular individual animal that may be more of a Houdini than the rest, which should be encouragement enough to make sure you make your fences, "goat-tight and bull-strong." Goats are notorious for testing fences, being prone to climb up, jump over, crawl under, crawl through or even walk through fences. Build your fence so that it's tall enough that they are not likely to jump over and in the ground enough that they won't crawl under. The space between wires need to be smaller than the size of their heads, because if a goat can get its head through, then the rest of its body is sure to follow! Sheep are less notorious for testing fences, yet are as small as goats; thus similar fencing requirements are required for this domestic species. Pigs are worse for digging under and crawling under fences than going over them. You will need to install fencing that is deep enough underground that pigs won't root too far underneath to escape. Many horse owners will argue that barbed wire fencing is the worse thing for horses to be contained in, and would rather spend the extra money on rail, or board fencing than wire fencing. Horses are much more apt to jump over a fence and figure out a way through the gate latch than crawling under or through a fence. However a stallion hot on the trail of a mare in heat will test a fence to its limits; thus if you own a breeding herd of horses, make sure the corral you are containing your corrals in is strong, sturdy and tall enough a stallion won't test it. Fencing for cattle is a little more easier to choose because there are more choices a producer can make for holding their cattle in depending on where a producer wants to hold them in. Barbed wire fencing is the most common type of fencing for pasturing cattle. Electric fencing is best for those fence lines that are being tested too much or those who are rotational-grazing cattle. More rugged fencing such as stand-alone iron panels, wood board or iron rail is best for corrals, handling facilities and working or holding pens, and highly recommended for bull and cull-cow pens. 1-2. Determine what type of fence or fences that needs to be built. Once you know what kind of livestock you will have to contain and what needs to be done to keep them in, ultimately what you choose depends on how much money you are willing to spend to buy the supplies, and how long the fence-line needs to be (or, what perimeter or area needs to be contained with a surrounding fence). Note that there is a huge difference in fences for corrals versus those for pasture. With cattle for example, corral fences need to be tougher and stable than pasture fences. Pasture fencing for cattle require simple barbed-wire or high-tensile fences, whereas for pigs, goats and sheep, pasture fencing requires page wire up to a 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 m) tall, respectively. Pasture fencing for horses can also be barbed wire or high-tensile, but others like to get a little more fancy and have painted wood fences or aesthetically-pleasing iron fencing. There are numerous types of fencing available. Some examples include: Temporary electric fencing in the form of permanent (such as high-tensile) or temporary electric. Electric fencing can be the fastest and cheapest to build if you live in the country. It will handle any animal that is trained to the wire, and is also useful as a psychological barrier to even wildlife. Wire that is electrified is said to be energized, or "hot." Temporary electric is perfect for rotational or managed-intensive grazing because it can be moved around all the time. How to install an electric fence will not be covered here because some different techniques are involved with installation of this compared with building a standard permanent livestock fence. However, please see How to Make an Electric Fence for more information. Barbed wire fencing with barbed wire installed alone in four to six or more-wired fences, smooth-wire fence in the form of high-tensile or low-tensile fencing (this type of fencing is often electrified) or a combination of smooth and barbed wire--one strand of barbed wire usually runs across top and sometimes at differing levels, or one strand of smooth wire runs across the top with the bottom wires barbed. Both types are fencing are best for livestock Paige wire, though more expensive than barbed or smooth wire, is best for operations that pasture or raise goats, sheep, and pigs, and is a common pasture fencing for holding bison and elk. Paige wire may also be used on farms or ranches that run a cow-calf operation, and necessitates use if the producer doesn't want their calves out of the corral. Paige wire is also called "farm fence" or "woven wire," and comes in the form of woven chicken wire or 12 to 14 gauge wire welded together to form squares of varying lengths apart, from four to six inches apart. It can stand as low as three feet or as tall as eight feet. Wooden horse railing or wooden boards are best for those who want more aesthetically pleasing farms and don't want to worry about the potential problems posed by wire fences. It can be expensive but safe and effective for horses. Wooden board fencing is also suitable for holding cattle. Iron railing fencing is also suited for farms that have horses or wish to have aesthetically-pleasing yards. It can also be used for other livestock like cattle and sheep, especially in high-traffic areas such as holding corrals or sacrifice corrals. Iron panel fencing comes in panels that need to be stabilized with wooden posts or stand-alone panels that simply require a tractor to put them into place. These, depending on the size, are great for keeping large animals such as deer, cattle (especially bulls), horses (including stallions), bison and even elk. 1-3. Obtain a survey of your land. A legal land survey may be required to determine the exact perimeter of the land that you own, or where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. You may need to arrange for this first since a wait may be involved. Note this is crucial for determining where your permanent fences are going to go especially if you have land that is not already surrounded by existing boundaries such as a road or a tree line. It is less important if you are building internal fences within the base perimeter fence, because quite often you can survey out where these internal fences will go yourself rather than spend money to hire professional surveyors to do it for you. Surveying out internal pasture and corral fences require quite a bit of measuring and making sure you have corners that are close to 90 degrees, and not at an obtuse or acute angle that your animals will find and get themselves cornered in. Use surveyor stakes (also called "lath", surveyor tape, a 200' tape measure, and chalk or marking paint, with the latter two items ideal for marking out small, "working" corrals and handling facilities. You will need to use these items after you've completed the step after this next one. 1-4. Phone the utility and gas company to mark out any underground utility and pipe lines that may be on your property. They will come out and put up stakes and/or bright spray paint to note where any hidden lines may be that you should be aware of prior to starting any fence building. Be sure you know where utility/gas lines go before you dig or start pounding in fence posts because if you don't, you will either have the costly endeavor of having it fixed, or you could be end up in the ER of the local hospital. 1-5. Determine where your fences are going to go on paper. You will need a ruler, a protractor, a pencil, paper, and an eraser to create a drawing to help you figure out an efficient system of movement from pasture to pasture, pasture to corral, corral to pasture, and corral to handling area. Especially for pasture rotations, you must design a system that reduces or eliminates risk of returning to a pasture that has just been grazed and requires rest, and be organized so that you are going to have smooth flow of traffic from one pasture or corral to another. The land survey done will help you out with your planning, especially if you can acquire a copy of a surveyor's map of your land. Finding your land on Google Earth may help as well, especially to give you a better idea of how much land you need to cover and what the estimated measurements of your fence lines will be. You then can sketch out your pasture and corral spaces, noting the following: How many enclosures you want to have. For pastures, this all depends on the grazing system you want to have, and whether you want just a permanent perimeter fence so that you can have movable fencing for a rotational grazing system. Where your gates should be. Remember, you need to have good flow. For most livestock, movement is smoother (and it's easier to herd them) if a gate is put in the corner of a pasture rather than in the middle of the fence line. This is because most animals that can be herded as a group (almost all species of livestock except pigs and chickens) often always go to a corner rather than a fence. Where any "high-traffic" lanes may be (optional). These are good if you need to divert animals away from a farmed field, a residence, or a protected natural area in moving them to another pasture. Lanes may be good if you have water facilities out on pasture as well as several pastures that are rotated throughout the year, and this one water source is sufficient for all moves. Length of each fence-line, noting how much land area you have, and the perimeter of your land base via the surveying results. This will help you calculate out how much wire and how many posts will be needed. Length of gates and how many, for example if you need two 10 foot gates or only one 16 foot gate. Keep in mind space needed for potentially having equipment come into the pasture for various reasons, from reseeding pastures, mowing or haying excess forages, to spreading manure, or even collecting a dead animal (like a cow) for disposal. 1-6. Plan out what kind of corner braces you want or need for your pasture fences. This is your anchor point for your fence that takes the brunt of the force generated by both lines of the fence that the corner brace is connected to, and is the first and most important thing you need to build for a pasture livestock fence. You might want to search around your area for these corner braces when you go driving around. You will find all manner of corners out there for you to observe which have held up over the years to various degrees. Considering the value that a fence has, it makes sense to build your corner assemblies up to the highest standard in your area. Corner braces range from an H brace, N brace or a brace with a wood post at the top and wire stretching from the top of one post down to the bottom of the other. In other words, when two H-braces back to back which are commonly seen on a pasture fence corner, three vertical posts, two horizontal braces, and bracing wire are used to construct such a corner brace. This type of construction is standard and will hold up almost any fence for many years to come. 1-7. Mark out all of your fence lines, corners, lanes, and gates. Using surveyor tape, lath, a long tape measure, chalk or bright paint, measure out where your fence-lines will go, where your corner braces will be, any lanes you will have, and where your gates will go. Mark out where you will need to sink posts in to first start forming corner braces. The chalk and paint are ideal for smaller areas (like laying out a handling facility), and pointing where corner posts will need to go. Lath with surveyor tape tied work the best as reference points to where corners will be, and where corner posts will need to be pounded in to. Use all as best as possible so that when you come back with your supplies, you won't be confused as to where to begin or where your fence-line should actually be. Note what color of surveyor tape or painted lath the gas company and/or surveyors used to mark out the buried utility lines, and avoid using that color to avoid confusion and a potential mishap. 1-8. Purchase your fencing supplies. You will need quite a number of items: Fence posts (treated wood, metal, or metal T-posts), both with the tapered ends and some that have no tapered ends for use as top bracing posts on corner braces; Barbed, smooth or paige wire or, boards or rails depending on what kind of fence you have settled on; For wire fences especially, all wire comes in rolls so you will need to build a contraption that allows the spool of wire to freely spin when you pull it along and unroll a strand of wire along the fence line, all without you having to hold the very heavy new spool (most new spools of barbed wire weigh around 70 pounds (31.8 kg) to 90 pounds (40.8 kg), which is not easy to carry for most people who have a lot of fence to build) and walk along to unroll it. Start with a metal or iron rod or pole that easily fits in the center of the spool, then go from there with any spare wood or metal parts you find that you can hammer or weld together. Note, though, that iron or metal parts tend to be more durable than wood, even when a wooden spool holder is held together by screws. There are all sorts of inventions many producers have created that has worked for them, from truck-mounted holders to tractor-loader holders, all with the same purpose: Allow the spool to spin freely on its center axis so that it can be more easily unrolled. Simply type in "barb wire spool holder" to your favorite search engine and be prepared to be inspired by the search results. A ratcheting come-along wire stretcher (hand-held or operated from a vehicle, the latter ideal for wire fences longer than 20 feet (6.1 m) or 30 feet (9.1 m) long); Fencing pliers; A hammer (if you don't already have a good heavy-duty one); Nails (6 to 8 inches (15.2 to 20.3 cm) spiral or ringed nails for putting up board or rails and corner posts) or fencing staples (come various sizes depending on the size of wire you are putting up. Most common small sizes are usually 1.25 inches (3.2 cm), and the common large sizes are 2.5 inches (6.4 cm)); A heavy mallet (optional, though useful for putting in corner braces, and maybe pounding in some fence posts); A post-pounder (rented from your local farm supply store); and A chainsaw or hand-saw (if you don't already have either) for sawing the tops of bracing posts and pounded posts used for forming the stabilizing corners of your fences. 1-9. Dig holes. An auger or post hole digger is used to dig any holes that are required, especially for the start of constructing corner braces. The posts are buried in a hole that is as deep as is necessary in your area, depending on the type of soil you have. Corner brace posts need to be dug so that the base is sunk in at least 30 inches (76.2 cm) to 2 feet (0.6 m) deep. 1-10. Install corner posts. Corner posts are usually larger in diameter and even longer than line posts. Some people choose to set them in concrete, however others argue that setting them in concrete will make them more prone to rot than if they were set in gravel, sand or the soil they are to be set in. Make sure they are straight and level (it is never good to have crooked corner posts!), before installing the top post connecting all three sunken posts. Fill in the space around the three posts with the soil that was dug out, gravel, sand, or concrete if you so choose. You should have a an approximate right 90-degree angle formed between the post that is standing at the very center point of the corner of your fence and the other two on either side. Connect the bracing, horizontal posts with the three posts. Use a tape measure, a pencil, and a chainsaw to mark and cut out the points where the posts are to meet and be very snug with each other. You may need to use a mallet to fully connect the top post with the sunken-in posts. For constructing H-corners with a bracing wire: Place the blunt-end post on top of the two standing posts, and mark the top portion that needs to be removed on the standing posts, and mark the portion at either end of the brace (along the curved side, not the flat side) that will also need to be removed. Allow for 6 inches (15.2 cm) to be cut down into the post before removing the length marked out at a 90-degree angle. You should end up with a right-angle cut into the standing posts and the same at either end of the bracing post; the cuts facing each other directly on the standing posts, and one the same side of the bracing post. Do not remove more than what is marked, rather right on the mark or slightly less to allow for a more snug fit of the bracing post. Place the bracing post over the cuts and hammer in the ends, trying to do both at the same time, or rather not first working on getting one end all the way in before trying the other. As mentioned, use a mallet if the braces are too tight to use with a hammer. Hammer in a couple nails into the end of the bracing post to keep it in place. Install the brace wire. The brace wire crosses from the top of one post down to the other, and tightening that wire with a stick by winding the wire up as tight as possible without breaking it further enhances the strength of the cross brace. Direction of where the brace wire is located is really important. The wire should be looped around the top of the very middle corner brace, and sloped down to the post on the outside of the corner. Smooth galvanized wire is highly recommended, with four to five loops between each posts, then twisted. Direction of twist is up to you. Hammer in two or three staples over the wire on each of the standing posts to secure it. Repeat with the other side of the corner. And, repeat this step with all other corners. Note that with board or rail fences, installing corner braces is not required. Even hot-wire temporary fences do not require permanent corner braces. 1-11. Put up the first line of fencing wire. This is to act as a guide to where to sink the line posts in with the post-pounder. The first wire should be around 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to 25.4 cm) off the ground. This step is usually not necessary for board or rail fences, nor temporary electric fences. 1-12. Put up line posts. Line posts (or "fence posts" mentioned above) must be set at regular intervals. This distance varies widely from fence to fence, and can range from as close as 6 feet (1.8 m) apart and as far as 50 feet (15.2 m) apart. Closer is better if finances allow, and is a necessity if you are building holding or working corrals that will take a lot of abuse from the animals herded in them. All of the line posts you use that are would should be treated posts--no exceptions should be made, because untreated wood posts have a much shorter life-span than those that have been chemically pressure-treated. These same posts should taper at the end which makes it easier for the post-pounder to drive them into the ground. Ideally line posts should be sunk in 14 to 18 inches (35.6 to 45.7 cm) deep regardless of terrain. More posts will be needed for more uneven terrain such as the edge of a hill or into a valley. 1-13. Put up the rest of the wires. You will need to judge how many strands you want especially for wire fences. The standard is four wires per fence-line (especially for barbed-wire fencing), but some producers prefer to install five or six-wire fences especially along roads. Make sure each wire is evenly spaced with the other. This is also part of what makes a fence strong and sturdy. If the wires are not evenly spaced it makes it easy for an animal to put its head through the fence or even be able to go right through or under the fence without any problems. You must make it difficult for this to happen. For board to rail fences, the standard is three board or rails, one on top of the other and evenly spaced per fence line. 1-14. Hammer in the staples. Each line post will need to be connected to the wires strung up by staples. This is important because livestock will find a hole in the fence, and a hole can be a wire that is not connected to a post with a fence staple, or a wire that has been broken from too much pressure exerted on it. The staple should be hammered in at an angle to the wire (never perfectly perpendicular), and the loop slightly pointing up. It takes a lot of practice to get good at hammering staples in so they look nice and neat. They are not like hammering nails, because the two pointed ends allow for a lot more give than a single-spiked nail. Each blow to the staple must be right on (ideally, blows happening so that the angle of the hammer head is next to perfectly perpendicular to the angle of the post)so that it won't angle up too much into the wood, or bend so much that the staple gets so flat it needs to be replaced. Also, when first attempting to hammer you may miss it so that the staple goes flying off somewhere in the grass and gets lost forever! Check the perimeter of the fence-line to see if you missed any staples or anything else that may be amiss. 1-15. Repeat the steps above for the rest of the fences you need to build. 1-16. Let the animals out to the pasture. Once you are done building the fences, you can finally let your animals out to pasture. Keep an eye on them for an hour or so as they wander the perimeter of their new pasture to see if they find a hole to go through. If there's no problems, then you're good to go! Tips Use a fence-pulling winch or a come-along to tighten the wires. Do not use your own strength to do so because it will never be enough. Reserve your strength for handling posts and hammering in staples. When building wire fences, you must treat the first fence-line wire as a guide to where to pound your posts in. Hills and valleys can be tough to fence, especially if they are quite steep. You will need to sink a post in at the base of the hill and hammer the guideline wire to it (the staple should be in the post enough that it holds the wire, but not so much that the wire cannot be moved through the loop of the staple), then sink a post at the top and connect wire to that post. Or, simply roll out the wire along the entire fence-line first, pound in all the line posts, put out all the other wires, stretch them, then go along and pound in the staples, starting at the top of the hill then down. You may have to use a stick or something similar to hoist up or hold down the wire as you tap in the staple with the hammer. There are many other methods of how to wire up hill-fences, so research and find out what may be the easiest method for you to use. Warnings Make sure you use thick gloves and safety glasses (sunglasses will work as well) when handling barbed wire. Barbed wire, or any wire is dangerous and needs to be handled with care. Do not carelessly handle it so that it potentially pokes out the eyes of either you or your helper. It's not a matter of if you will get cut by barbed wire, but when. If you get cut and it's deep, place a gauze or paper towel on the wound immediately and apply pressure to stem the bleeding. Most cuts from wire don't require stitches unless it's really deep and the bleeding won't stop after a minute or so. Any machine you use with building fences has the potential to do harm. Post pounders are one of those machines: get your fingers caught in the wrong place and you could be in for a lot of trouble. Make sure you don't stretch the wires too taught otherwise the will break. Wires will break without any warning, so be very careful when stretching them. Call before you dig.[12] X Research source There's nothing worse than hitting a gas, oil, water or electric line and causing significant damage to equipment or even yourself.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:45", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Steps\\n1-1. Determine or know what livestock you own or will potentially have to help you consider what your fencing needs will be.\\nMost fences are suited for a variety of farm animal species, but ideally you shouldn't waste money on building something that will end up being what you don't need or is not enough to hold in the animals you are wanting to keep. For example, you shouldn't put up chicken wire if you're only going to have cattle, nor should you install cattle panels for chickens, goats or pigs. Chicken wire is best for chickens and other poultry and other small stock, and cattle panels are best for cattle and horses. With that in mind, you must also understand the risks of having a particular individual animal that may be more of a Houdini than the rest, which should be encouragement enough to make sure you make your fences, \\\"goat-tight and bull-strong.\\\"\\nGoats are notorious for testing fences, being prone to climb up, jump over, crawl under, crawl through or even walk through fences. Build your fence so that it's tall enough that they are not likely to jump over and in the ground enough that they won't crawl under. The space between wires need to be smaller than the size of their heads, because if a goat can get its head through, then the rest of its body is sure to follow!\\nSheep are less notorious for testing fences, yet are as small as goats; thus similar fencing requirements are required for this domestic species.\\nPigs are worse for digging under and crawling under fences than going over them. You will need to install fencing that is deep enough underground that pigs won't root too far underneath to escape.\\nMany horse owners will argue that barbed wire fencing is the worse thing for horses to be contained in, and would rather spend the extra money on rail, or board fencing than wire fencing. Horses are much more apt to jump over a fence and figure out a way through the gate latch than crawling under or through a fence. However a stallion hot on the trail of a mare in heat will test a fence to its limits; thus if you own a breeding herd of horses, make sure the corral you are containing your corrals in is strong, sturdy and tall enough a stallion won't test it.\\nFencing for cattle is a little more easier to choose because there are more choices a producer can make for holding their cattle in depending on where a producer wants to hold them in. Barbed wire fencing is the most common type of fencing for pasturing cattle. Electric fencing is best for those fence lines that are being tested too much or those who are rotational-grazing cattle. More rugged fencing such as stand-alone iron panels, wood board or iron rail is best for corrals, handling facilities and working or holding pens, and highly recommended for bull and cull-cow pens.\\n1-2. Determine what type of fence or fences that needs to be built.\\nOnce you know what kind of livestock you will have to contain and what needs to be done to keep them in, ultimately what you choose depends on how much money you are willing to spend to buy the supplies, and how long the fence-line needs to be (or, what perimeter or area needs to be contained with a surrounding fence). Note that there is a huge difference in fences for corrals versus those for pasture.\\nWith cattle for example, corral fences need to be tougher and stable than pasture fences. Pasture fencing for cattle require simple barbed-wire or high-tensile fences, whereas for pigs, goats and sheep, pasture fencing requires page wire up to a 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 m) tall, respectively. Pasture fencing for horses can also be barbed wire or high-tensile, but others like to get a little more fancy and have painted wood fences or aesthetically-pleasing iron fencing.\\nThere are numerous types of fencing available. Some examples include:\\nTemporary electric fencing in the form of permanent (such as high-tensile) or temporary electric. Electric fencing can be the fastest and cheapest to build if you live in the country. It will handle any animal that is trained to the wire, and is also useful as a psychological barrier to even wildlife. Wire that is electrified is said to be energized, or \\\"hot.\\\" Temporary electric is perfect for rotational or managed-intensive grazing because it can be moved around all the time.\\nHow to install an electric fence will not be covered here because some different techniques are involved with installation of this compared with building a standard permanent livestock fence. However, please see How to Make an Electric Fence for more information.\\n\\nBarbed wire fencing with barbed wire installed alone in four to six or more-wired fences, smooth-wire fence in the form of high-tensile or low-tensile fencing (this type of fencing is often electrified) or a combination of smooth and barbed wire--one strand of barbed wire usually runs across top and sometimes at differing levels, or one strand of smooth wire runs across the top with the bottom wires barbed. Both types are fencing are best for livestock\\nPaige wire, though more expensive than barbed or smooth wire, is best for operations that pasture or raise goats, sheep, and pigs, and is a common pasture fencing for holding bison and elk. Paige wire may also be used on farms or ranches that run a cow-calf operation, and necessitates use if the producer doesn't want their calves out of the corral. Paige wire is also called \\\"farm fence\\\" or \\\"woven wire,\\\" and comes in the form of woven chicken wire or 12 to 14 gauge wire welded together to form squares of varying lengths apart, from four to six inches apart. It can stand as low as three feet or as tall as eight feet.\\nWooden horse railing or wooden boards are best for those who want more aesthetically pleasing farms and don't want to worry about the potential problems posed by wire fences. It can be expensive but safe and effective for horses. Wooden board fencing is also suitable for holding cattle.\\nIron railing fencing is also suited for farms that have horses or wish to have aesthetically-pleasing yards. It can also be used for other livestock like cattle and sheep, especially in high-traffic areas such as holding corrals or sacrifice corrals.\\nIron panel fencing comes in panels that need to be stabilized with wooden posts or stand-alone panels that simply require a tractor to put them into place. These, depending on the size, are great for keeping large animals such as deer, cattle (especially bulls), horses (including stallions), bison and even elk.\\n1-3. Obtain a survey of your land.\\nA legal land survey may be required to determine the exact perimeter of the land that you own, or where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. You may need to arrange for this first since a wait may be involved.\\nNote this is crucial for determining where your permanent fences are going to go especially if you have land that is not already surrounded by existing boundaries such as a road or a tree line. It is less important if you are building internal fences within the base perimeter fence, because quite often you can survey out where these internal fences will go yourself rather than spend money to hire professional surveyors to do it for you.\\nSurveying out internal pasture and corral fences require quite a bit of measuring and making sure you have corners that are close to 90 degrees, and not at an obtuse or acute angle that your animals will find and get themselves cornered in. Use surveyor stakes (also called \\\"lath\\\", surveyor tape, a 200' tape measure, and chalk or marking paint, with the latter two items ideal for marking out small, \\\"working\\\" corrals and handling facilities. You will need to use these items after you've completed the step after this next one.\\n1-4. Phone the utility and gas company to mark out any underground utility and pipe lines that may be on your property.\\nThey will come out and put up stakes and/or bright spray paint to note where any hidden lines may be that you should be aware of prior to starting any fence building. Be sure you know where utility/gas lines go before you dig or start pounding in fence posts because if you don't, you will either have the costly endeavor of having it fixed, or you could be end up in the ER of the local hospital.\\n1-5. Determine where your fences are going to go on paper.\\nYou will need a ruler, a protractor, a pencil, paper, and an eraser to create a drawing to help you figure out an efficient system of movement from pasture to pasture, pasture to corral, corral to pasture, and corral to handling area. Especially for pasture rotations, you must design a system that reduces or eliminates risk of returning to a pasture that has just been grazed and requires rest, and be organized so that you are going to have smooth flow of traffic from one pasture or corral to another. \\nThe land survey done will help you out with your planning, especially if you can acquire a copy of a surveyor's map of your land. Finding your land on Google Earth may help as well, especially to give you a better idea of how much land you need to cover and what the estimated measurements of your fence lines will be.\\nYou then can sketch out your pasture and corral spaces, noting the following:\\n\\nHow many enclosures you want to have. For pastures, this all depends on the grazing system you want to have, and whether you want just a permanent perimeter fence so that you can have movable fencing for a rotational grazing system.\\nWhere your gates should be. Remember, you need to have good flow. For most livestock, movement is smoother (and it's easier to herd them) if a gate is put in the corner of a pasture rather than in the middle of the fence line. This is because most animals that can be herded as a group (almost all species of livestock except pigs and chickens) often always go to a corner rather than a fence.\\nWhere any \\\"high-traffic\\\" lanes may be (optional). These are good if you need to divert animals away from a farmed field, a residence, or a protected natural area in moving them to another pasture. Lanes may be good if you have water facilities out on pasture as well as several pastures that are rotated throughout the year, and this one water source is sufficient for all moves.\\nLength of each fence-line, noting how much land area you have, and the perimeter of your land base via the surveying results. This will help you calculate out how much wire and how many posts will be needed.\\nLength of gates and how many, for example if you need two 10 foot gates or only one 16 foot gate. Keep in mind space needed for potentially having equipment come into the pasture for various reasons, from reseeding pastures, mowing or haying excess forages, to spreading manure, or even collecting a dead animal (like a cow) for disposal.\\n1-6. Plan out what kind of corner braces you want or need for your pasture fences.\\nThis is your anchor point for your fence that takes the brunt of the force generated by both lines of the fence that the corner brace is connected to, and is the first and most important thing you need to build for a pasture livestock fence. You might want to search around your area for these corner braces when you go driving around. You will find all manner of corners out there for you to observe which have held up over the years to various degrees. Considering the value that a fence has, it makes sense to build your corner assemblies up to the highest standard in your area.\\nCorner braces range from an H brace, N brace or a brace with a wood post at the top and wire stretching from the top of one post down to the bottom of the other. In other words, when two H-braces back to back which are commonly seen on a pasture fence corner, three vertical posts, two horizontal braces, and bracing wire are used to construct such a corner brace. This type of construction is standard and will hold up almost any fence for many years to come.\\n1-7. Mark out all of your fence lines, corners, lanes, and gates.\\nUsing surveyor tape, lath, a long tape measure, chalk or bright paint, measure out where your fence-lines will go, where your corner braces will be, any lanes you will have, and where your gates will go. Mark out where you will need to sink posts in to first start forming corner braces. The chalk and paint are ideal for smaller areas (like laying out a handling facility), and pointing where corner posts will need to go. Lath with surveyor tape tied work the best as reference points to where corners will be, and where corner posts will need to be pounded in to. Use all as best as possible so that when you come back with your supplies, you won't be confused as to where to begin or where your fence-line should actually be.\\nNote what color of surveyor tape or painted lath the gas company and/or surveyors used to mark out the buried utility lines, and avoid using that color to avoid confusion and a potential mishap.\\n1-8. Purchase your fencing supplies.\\nYou will need quite a number of items:\\nFence posts (treated wood, metal, or metal T-posts), both with the tapered ends and some that have no tapered ends for use as top bracing posts on corner braces;\\nBarbed, smooth or paige wire or, boards or rails depending on what kind of fence you have settled on;\\nFor wire fences especially, all wire comes in rolls so you will need to build a contraption that allows the spool of wire to freely spin when you pull it along and unroll a strand of wire along the fence line, all without you having to hold the very heavy new spool (most new spools of barbed wire weigh around 70 pounds (31.8 kg) to 90 pounds (40.8 kg), which is not easy to carry for most people who have a lot of fence to build) and walk along to unroll it. Start with a metal or iron rod or pole that easily fits in the center of the spool, then go from there with any spare wood or metal parts you find that you can hammer or weld together. Note, though, that iron or metal parts tend to be more durable than wood, even when a wooden spool holder is held together by screws.\\nThere are all sorts of inventions many producers have created that has worked for them, from truck-mounted holders to tractor-loader holders, all with the same purpose: Allow the spool to spin freely on its center axis so that it can be more easily unrolled. Simply type in \\\"barb wire spool holder\\\" to your favorite search engine and be prepared to be inspired by the search results.\\n\\nA ratcheting come-along wire stretcher (hand-held or operated from a vehicle, the latter ideal for wire fences longer than 20 feet (6.1 m) or 30 feet (9.1 m) long);\\nFencing pliers;\\nA hammer (if you don't already have a good heavy-duty one);\\nNails (6 to 8 inches (15.2 to 20.3 cm) spiral or ringed nails for putting up board or rails and corner posts) or fencing staples (come various sizes depending on the size of wire you are putting up. Most common small sizes are usually 1.25 inches (3.2 cm), and the common large sizes are 2.5 inches (6.4 cm));\\nA heavy mallet (optional, though useful for putting in corner braces, and maybe pounding in some fence posts);\\nA post-pounder (rented from your local farm supply store); and\\nA chainsaw or hand-saw (if you don't already have either) for sawing the tops of bracing posts and pounded posts used for forming the stabilizing corners of your fences.\\n1-9. Dig holes.\\nAn auger or post hole digger is used to dig any holes that are required, especially for the start of constructing corner braces. The posts are buried in a hole that is as deep as is necessary in your area, depending on the type of soil you have. Corner brace posts need to be dug so that the base is sunk in at least 30 inches (76.2 cm) to 2 feet (0.6 m) deep.\\n1-10. Install corner posts.\\nCorner posts are usually larger in diameter and even longer than line posts. Some people choose to set them in concrete, however others argue that setting them in concrete will make them more prone to rot than if they were set in gravel, sand or the soil they are to be set in. Make sure they are straight and level (it is never good to have crooked corner posts!), before installing the top post connecting all three sunken posts. Fill in the space around the three posts with the soil that was dug out, gravel, sand, or concrete if you so choose.\\nYou should have a an approximate right 90-degree angle formed between the post that is standing at the very center point of the corner of your fence and the other two on either side.\\nConnect the bracing, horizontal posts with the three posts. Use a tape measure, a pencil, and a chainsaw to mark and cut out the points where the posts are to meet and be very snug with each other. You may need to use a mallet to fully connect the top post with the sunken-in posts. For constructing H-corners with a bracing wire:\\nPlace the blunt-end post on top of the two standing posts, and mark the top portion that needs to be removed on the standing posts, and mark the portion at either end of the brace (along the curved side, not the flat side) that will also need to be removed. Allow for 6 inches (15.2 cm) to be cut down into the post before removing the length marked out at a 90-degree angle. You should end up with a right-angle cut into the standing posts and the same at either end of the bracing post; the cuts facing each other directly on the standing posts, and one the same side of the bracing post. Do not remove more than what is marked, rather right on the mark or slightly less to allow for a more snug fit of the bracing post.\\nPlace the bracing post over the cuts and hammer in the ends, trying to do both at the same time, or rather not first working on getting one end all the way in before trying the other. As mentioned, use a mallet if the braces are too tight to use with a hammer. Hammer in a couple nails into the end of the bracing post to keep it in place.\\n\\nInstall the brace wire. The brace wire crosses from the top of one post down to the other, and tightening that wire with a stick by winding the wire up as tight as possible without breaking it further enhances the strength of the cross brace.\\nDirection of where the brace wire is located is really important. The wire should be looped around the top of the very middle corner brace, and sloped down to the post on the outside of the corner. Smooth galvanized wire is highly recommended, with four to five loops between each posts, then twisted. Direction of twist is up to you. Hammer in two or three staples over the wire on each of the standing posts to secure it.\\nRepeat with the other side of the corner. And, repeat this step with all other corners.\\nNote that with board or rail fences, installing corner braces is not required. Even hot-wire temporary fences do not require permanent corner braces.\\n1-11. Put up the first line of fencing wire.\\nThis is to act as a guide to where to sink the line posts in with the post-pounder. The first wire should be around 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to 25.4 cm) off the ground.\\nThis step is usually not necessary for board or rail fences, nor temporary electric fences.\\n1-12. Put up line posts.\\nLine posts (or \\\"fence posts\\\" mentioned above) must be set at regular intervals. This distance varies widely from fence to fence, and can range from as close as 6 feet (1.8 m) apart and as far as 50 feet (15.2 m) apart. Closer is better if finances allow, and is a necessity if you are building holding or working corrals that will take a lot of abuse from the animals herded in them. All of the line posts you use that are would should be treated posts--no exceptions should be made, because untreated wood posts have a much shorter life-span than those that have been chemically pressure-treated. These same posts should taper at the end which makes it easier for the post-pounder to drive them into the ground.\\nIdeally line posts should be sunk in 14 to 18 inches (35.6 to 45.7 cm) deep regardless of terrain. More posts will be needed for more uneven terrain such as the edge of a hill or into a valley.\\n1-13. Put up the rest of the wires.\\nYou will need to judge how many strands you want especially for wire fences. The standard is four wires per fence-line (especially for barbed-wire fencing), but some producers prefer to install five or six-wire fences especially along roads.\\nMake sure each wire is evenly spaced with the other. This is also part of what makes a fence strong and sturdy. If the wires are not evenly spaced it makes it easy for an animal to put its head through the fence or even be able to go right through or under the fence without any problems. You must make it difficult for this to happen.\\nFor board to rail fences, the standard is three board or rails, one on top of the other and evenly spaced per fence line.\\n1-14. Hammer in the staples.\\nEach line post will need to be connected to the wires strung up by staples. This is important because livestock will find a hole in the fence, and a hole can be a wire that is not connected to a post with a fence staple, or a wire that has been broken from too much pressure exerted on it. The staple should be hammered in at an angle to the wire (never perfectly perpendicular), and the loop slightly pointing up. \\nIt takes a lot of practice to get good at hammering staples in so they look nice and neat. They are not like hammering nails, because the two pointed ends allow for a lot more give than a single-spiked nail. Each blow to the staple must be right on (ideally, blows happening so that the angle of the hammer head is next to perfectly perpendicular to the angle of the post)so that it won't angle up too much into the wood, or bend so much that the staple gets so flat it needs to be replaced. Also, when first attempting to hammer you may miss it so that the staple goes flying off somewhere in the grass and gets lost forever!\\nCheck the perimeter of the fence-line to see if you missed any staples or anything else that may be amiss.\\n1-15. Repeat the steps above for the rest of the fences you need to build.\\n\\n1-16. Let the animals out to the pasture.\\nOnce you are done building the fences, you can finally let your animals out to pasture. Keep an eye on them for an hour or so as they wander the perimeter of their new pasture to see if they find a hole to go through. If there's no problems, then you're good to go!\\nTips\\nUse a fence-pulling winch or a come-along to tighten the wires. Do not use your own strength to do so because it will never be enough. Reserve your strength for handling posts and hammering in staples.\\nWhen building wire fences, you must treat the first fence-line wire as a guide to where to pound your posts in.\\nHills and valleys can be tough to fence, especially if they are quite steep. You will need to sink a post in at the base of the hill and hammer the guideline wire to it (the staple should be in the post enough that it holds the wire, but not so much that the wire cannot be moved through the loop of the staple), then sink a post at the top and connect wire to that post.\\n\\nOr, simply roll out the wire along the entire fence-line first, pound in all the line posts, put out all the other wires, stretch them, then go along and pound in the staples, starting at the top of the hill then down. You may have to use a stick or something similar to hoist up or hold down the wire as you tap in the staple with the hammer.\\nThere are many other methods of how to wire up hill-fences, so research and find out what may be the easiest method for you to use.\\nWarnings\\nMake sure you use thick gloves and safety glasses (sunglasses will work as well) when handling barbed wire.\\nBarbed wire, or any wire is dangerous and needs to be handled with care. Do not carelessly handle it so that it potentially pokes out the eyes of either you or your helper.\\nIt's not a matter of if you will get cut by barbed wire, but when. If you get cut and it's deep, place a gauze or paper towel on the wound immediately and apply pressure to stem the bleeding. Most cuts from wire don't require stitches unless it's really deep and the bleeding won't stop after a minute or so.\\nAny machine you use with building fences has the potential to do harm. Post pounders are one of those machines: get your fingers caught in the wrong place and you could be in for a lot of trouble.\\nMake sure you don't stretch the wires too taught otherwise the will break. Wires will break without any warning, so be very careful when stretching them.\\nCall before you dig.[12]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n There's nothing worse than hitting a gas, oil, water or electric line and causing significant damage to equipment or even yourself.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Livestock fencing is dependent on the type of livestock you intend to keep inside the fence. There are many types of fence that will control livestock.This article provides a simple brief overview of typical livestock fencing. Please feel free to start an article on any particular type of fencing by type or by livestock.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Steps\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Determine or know what livestock you own or will potentially have to help you consider what your fencing needs will be.\", \"描述\": \"Most fences are suited for a variety of farm animal species, but ideally you shouldn't waste money on building something that will end up being what you don't need or is not enough to hold in the animals you are wanting to keep. For example, you shouldn't put up chicken wire if you're only going to have cattle, nor should you install cattle panels for chickens, goats or pigs. Chicken wire is best for chickens and other poultry and other small stock, and cattle panels are best for cattle and horses. With that in mind, you must also understand the risks of having a particular individual animal that may be more of a Houdini than the rest, which should be encouragement enough to make sure you make your fences, \\\"goat-tight and bull-strong.\\\"\\nGoats are notorious for testing fences, being prone to climb up, jump over, crawl under, crawl through or even walk through fences. Build your fence so that it's tall enough that they are not likely to jump over and in the ground enough that they won't crawl under. The space between wires need to be smaller than the size of their heads, because if a goat can get its head through, then the rest of its body is sure to follow!\\nSheep are less notorious for testing fences, yet are as small as goats; thus similar fencing requirements are required for this domestic species.\\nPigs are worse for digging under and crawling under fences than going over them. You will need to install fencing that is deep enough underground that pigs won't root too far underneath to escape.\\nMany horse owners will argue that barbed wire fencing is the worse thing for horses to be contained in, and would rather spend the extra money on rail, or board fencing than wire fencing. Horses are much more apt to jump over a fence and figure out a way through the gate latch than crawling under or through a fence. However a stallion hot on the trail of a mare in heat will test a fence to its limits; thus if you own a breeding herd of horses, make sure the corral you are containing your corrals in is strong, sturdy and tall enough a stallion won't test it.\\nFencing for cattle is a little more easier to choose because there are more choices a producer can make for holding their cattle in depending on where a producer wants to hold them in. Barbed wire fencing is the most common type of fencing for pasturing cattle. Electric fencing is best for those fence lines that are being tested too much or those who are rotational-grazing cattle. More rugged fencing such as stand-alone iron panels, wood board or iron rail is best for corrals, handling facilities and working or holding pens, and highly recommended for bull and cull-cow pens.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Determine what type of fence or fences that needs to be built.\", \"描述\": \"Once you know what kind of livestock you will have to contain and what needs to be done to keep them in, ultimately what you choose depends on how much money you are willing to spend to buy the supplies, and how long the fence-line needs to be (or, what perimeter or area needs to be contained with a surrounding fence). Note that there is a huge difference in fences for corrals versus those for pasture.\\nWith cattle for example, corral fences need to be tougher and stable than pasture fences. Pasture fencing for cattle require simple barbed-wire or high-tensile fences, whereas for pigs, goats and sheep, pasture fencing requires page wire up to a 3 to 5 feet (0.9 to 1.5 m) tall, respectively. Pasture fencing for horses can also be barbed wire or high-tensile, but others like to get a little more fancy and have painted wood fences or aesthetically-pleasing iron fencing.\\nThere are numerous types of fencing available. Some examples include:\\nTemporary electric fencing in the form of permanent (such as high-tensile) or temporary electric. Electric fencing can be the fastest and cheapest to build if you live in the country. It will handle any animal that is trained to the wire, and is also useful as a psychological barrier to even wildlife. Wire that is electrified is said to be energized, or \\\"hot.\\\" Temporary electric is perfect for rotational or managed-intensive grazing because it can be moved around all the time.\\nHow to install an electric fence will not be covered here because some different techniques are involved with installation of this compared with building a standard permanent livestock fence. However, please see How to Make an Electric Fence for more information.\\n\\nBarbed wire fencing with barbed wire installed alone in four to six or more-wired fences, smooth-wire fence in the form of high-tensile or low-tensile fencing (this type of fencing is often electrified) or a combination of smooth and barbed wire--one strand of barbed wire usually runs across top and sometimes at differing levels, or one strand of smooth wire runs across the top with the bottom wires barbed. Both types are fencing are best for livestock\\nPaige wire, though more expensive than barbed or smooth wire, is best for operations that pasture or raise goats, sheep, and pigs, and is a common pasture fencing for holding bison and elk. Paige wire may also be used on farms or ranches that run a cow-calf operation, and necessitates use if the producer doesn't want their calves out of the corral. Paige wire is also called \\\"farm fence\\\" or \\\"woven wire,\\\" and comes in the form of woven chicken wire or 12 to 14 gauge wire welded together to form squares of varying lengths apart, from four to six inches apart. It can stand as low as three feet or as tall as eight feet.\\nWooden horse railing or wooden boards are best for those who want more aesthetically pleasing farms and don't want to worry about the potential problems posed by wire fences. It can be expensive but safe and effective for horses. Wooden board fencing is also suitable for holding cattle.\\nIron railing fencing is also suited for farms that have horses or wish to have aesthetically-pleasing yards. It can also be used for other livestock like cattle and sheep, especially in high-traffic areas such as holding corrals or sacrifice corrals.\\nIron panel fencing comes in panels that need to be stabilized with wooden posts or stand-alone panels that simply require a tractor to put them into place. These, depending on the size, are great for keeping large animals such as deer, cattle (especially bulls), horses (including stallions), bison and even elk.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Obtain a survey of your land.\", \"描述\": \"A legal land survey may be required to determine the exact perimeter of the land that you own, or where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. You may need to arrange for this first since a wait may be involved.\\nNote this is crucial for determining where your permanent fences are going to go especially if you have land that is not already surrounded by existing boundaries such as a road or a tree line. It is less important if you are building internal fences within the base perimeter fence, because quite often you can survey out where these internal fences will go yourself rather than spend money to hire professional surveyors to do it for you.\\nSurveying out internal pasture and corral fences require quite a bit of measuring and making sure you have corners that are close to 90 degrees, and not at an obtuse or acute angle that your animals will find and get themselves cornered in. Use surveyor stakes (also called \\\"lath\\\", surveyor tape, a 200' tape measure, and chalk or marking paint, with the latter two items ideal for marking out small, \\\"working\\\" corrals and handling facilities. You will need to use these items after you've completed the step after this next one.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Phone the utility and gas company to mark out any underground utility and pipe lines that may be on your property.\", \"描述\": \"They will come out and put up stakes and/or bright spray paint to note where any hidden lines may be that you should be aware of prior to starting any fence building. Be sure you know where utility/gas lines go before you dig or start pounding in fence posts because if you don't, you will either have the costly endeavor of having it fixed, or you could be end up in the ER of the local hospital.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Determine where your fences are going to go on paper.\", \"描述\": \"You will need a ruler, a protractor, a pencil, paper, and an eraser to create a drawing to help you figure out an efficient system of movement from pasture to pasture, pasture to corral, corral to pasture, and corral to handling area. Especially for pasture rotations, you must design a system that reduces or eliminates risk of returning to a pasture that has just been grazed and requires rest, and be organized so that you are going to have smooth flow of traffic from one pasture or corral to another. \\nThe land survey done will help you out with your planning, especially if you can acquire a copy of a surveyor's map of your land. Finding your land on Google Earth may help as well, especially to give you a better idea of how much land you need to cover and what the estimated measurements of your fence lines will be.\\nYou then can sketch out your pasture and corral spaces, noting the following:\\n\\nHow many enclosures you want to have. For pastures, this all depends on the grazing system you want to have, and whether you want just a permanent perimeter fence so that you can have movable fencing for a rotational grazing system.\\nWhere your gates should be. Remember, you need to have good flow. For most livestock, movement is smoother (and it's easier to herd them) if a gate is put in the corner of a pasture rather than in the middle of the fence line. This is because most animals that can be herded as a group (almost all species of livestock except pigs and chickens) often always go to a corner rather than a fence.\\nWhere any \\\"high-traffic\\\" lanes may be (optional). These are good if you need to divert animals away from a farmed field, a residence, or a protected natural area in moving them to another pasture. Lanes may be good if you have water facilities out on pasture as well as several pastures that are rotated throughout the year, and this one water source is sufficient for all moves.\\nLength of each fence-line, noting how much land area you have, and the perimeter of your land base via the surveying results. This will help you calculate out how much wire and how many posts will be needed.\\nLength of gates and how many, for example if you need two 10 foot gates or only one 16 foot gate. Keep in mind space needed for potentially having equipment come into the pasture for various reasons, from reseeding pastures, mowing or haying excess forages, to spreading manure, or even collecting a dead animal (like a cow) for disposal.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Plan out what kind of corner braces you want or need for your pasture fences.\", \"描述\": \"This is your anchor point for your fence that takes the brunt of the force generated by both lines of the fence that the corner brace is connected to, and is the first and most important thing you need to build for a pasture livestock fence. You might want to search around your area for these corner braces when you go driving around. You will find all manner of corners out there for you to observe which have held up over the years to various degrees. Considering the value that a fence has, it makes sense to build your corner assemblies up to the highest standard in your area.\\nCorner braces range from an H brace, N brace or a brace with a wood post at the top and wire stretching from the top of one post down to the bottom of the other. In other words, when two H-braces back to back which are commonly seen on a pasture fence corner, three vertical posts, two horizontal braces, and bracing wire are used to construct such a corner brace. This type of construction is standard and will hold up almost any fence for many years to come.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Mark out all of your fence lines, corners, lanes, and gates.\", \"描述\": \"Using surveyor tape, lath, a long tape measure, chalk or bright paint, measure out where your fence-lines will go, where your corner braces will be, any lanes you will have, and where your gates will go. Mark out where you will need to sink posts in to first start forming corner braces. The chalk and paint are ideal for smaller areas (like laying out a handling facility), and pointing where corner posts will need to go. Lath with surveyor tape tied work the best as reference points to where corners will be, and where corner posts will need to be pounded in to. Use all as best as possible so that when you come back with your supplies, you won't be confused as to where to begin or where your fence-line should actually be.\\nNote what color of surveyor tape or painted lath the gas company and/or surveyors used to mark out the buried utility lines, and avoid using that color to avoid confusion and a potential mishap.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Purchase your fencing supplies.\", \"描述\": \"You will need quite a number of items:\\nFence posts (treated wood, metal, or metal T-posts), both with the tapered ends and some that have no tapered ends for use as top bracing posts on corner braces;\\nBarbed, smooth or paige wire or, boards or rails depending on what kind of fence you have settled on;\\nFor wire fences especially, all wire comes in rolls so you will need to build a contraption that allows the spool of wire to freely spin when you pull it along and unroll a strand of wire along the fence line, all without you having to hold the very heavy new spool (most new spools of barbed wire weigh around 70 pounds (31.8 kg) to 90 pounds (40.8 kg), which is not easy to carry for most people who have a lot of fence to build) and walk along to unroll it. Start with a metal or iron rod or pole that easily fits in the center of the spool, then go from there with any spare wood or metal parts you find that you can hammer or weld together. Note, though, that iron or metal parts tend to be more durable than wood, even when a wooden spool holder is held together by screws.\\nThere are all sorts of inventions many producers have created that has worked for them, from truck-mounted holders to tractor-loader holders, all with the same purpose: Allow the spool to spin freely on its center axis so that it can be more easily unrolled. Simply type in \\\"barb wire spool holder\\\" to your favorite search engine and be prepared to be inspired by the search results.\\n\\nA ratcheting come-along wire stretcher (hand-held or operated from a vehicle, the latter ideal for wire fences longer than 20 feet (6.1 m) or 30 feet (9.1 m) long);\\nFencing pliers;\\nA hammer (if you don't already have a good heavy-duty one);\\nNails (6 to 8 inches (15.2 to 20.3 cm) spiral or ringed nails for putting up board or rails and corner posts) or fencing staples (come various sizes depending on the size of wire you are putting up. Most common small sizes are usually 1.25 inches (3.2 cm), and the common large sizes are 2.5 inches (6.4 cm));\\nA heavy mallet (optional, though useful for putting in corner braces, and maybe pounding in some fence posts);\\nA post-pounder (rented from your local farm supply store); and\\nA chainsaw or hand-saw (if you don't already have either) for sawing the tops of bracing posts and pounded posts used for forming the stabilizing corners of your fences.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Dig holes.\", \"描述\": \"An auger or post hole digger is used to dig any holes that are required, especially for the start of constructing corner braces. The posts are buried in a hole that is as deep as is necessary in your area, depending on the type of soil you have. Corner brace posts need to be dug so that the base is sunk in at least 30 inches (76.2 cm) to 2 feet (0.6 m) deep.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Install corner posts.\", \"描述\": \"Corner posts are usually larger in diameter and even longer than line posts. Some people choose to set them in concrete, however others argue that setting them in concrete will make them more prone to rot than if they were set in gravel, sand or the soil they are to be set in. Make sure they are straight and level (it is never good to have crooked corner posts!), before installing the top post connecting all three sunken posts. Fill in the space around the three posts with the soil that was dug out, gravel, sand, or concrete if you so choose.\\nYou should have a an approximate right 90-degree angle formed between the post that is standing at the very center point of the corner of your fence and the other two on either side.\\nConnect the bracing, horizontal posts with the three posts. Use a tape measure, a pencil, and a chainsaw to mark and cut out the points where the posts are to meet and be very snug with each other. You may need to use a mallet to fully connect the top post with the sunken-in posts. For constructing H-corners with a bracing wire:\\nPlace the blunt-end post on top of the two standing posts, and mark the top portion that needs to be removed on the standing posts, and mark the portion at either end of the brace (along the curved side, not the flat side) that will also need to be removed. Allow for 6 inches (15.2 cm) to be cut down into the post before removing the length marked out at a 90-degree angle. You should end up with a right-angle cut into the standing posts and the same at either end of the bracing post; the cuts facing each other directly on the standing posts, and one the same side of the bracing post. Do not remove more than what is marked, rather right on the mark or slightly less to allow for a more snug fit of the bracing post.\\nPlace the bracing post over the cuts and hammer in the ends, trying to do both at the same time, or rather not first working on getting one end all the way in before trying the other. As mentioned, use a mallet if the braces are too tight to use with a hammer. Hammer in a couple nails into the end of the bracing post to keep it in place.\\n\\nInstall the brace wire. The brace wire crosses from the top of one post down to the other, and tightening that wire with a stick by winding the wire up as tight as possible without breaking it further enhances the strength of the cross brace.\\nDirection of where the brace wire is located is really important. The wire should be looped around the top of the very middle corner brace, and sloped down to the post on the outside of the corner. Smooth galvanized wire is highly recommended, with four to five loops between each posts, then twisted. Direction of twist is up to you. Hammer in two or three staples over the wire on each of the standing posts to secure it.\\nRepeat with the other side of the corner. And, repeat this step with all other corners.\\nNote that with board or rail fences, installing corner braces is not required. Even hot-wire temporary fences do not require permanent corner braces.\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Put up the first line of fencing wire.\", \"描述\": \"This is to act as a guide to where to sink the line posts in with the post-pounder. The first wire should be around 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to 25.4 cm) off the ground.\\nThis step is usually not necessary for board or rail fences, nor temporary electric fences.\"}, {\"编号\": 12, \"标题\": \"Put up line posts.\", \"描述\": \"Line posts (or \\\"fence posts\\\" mentioned above) must be set at regular intervals. This distance varies widely from fence to fence, and can range from as close as 6 feet (1.8 m) apart and as far as 50 feet (15.2 m) apart. Closer is better if finances allow, and is a necessity if you are building holding or working corrals that will take a lot of abuse from the animals herded in them. All of the line posts you use that are would should be treated posts--no exceptions should be made, because untreated wood posts have a much shorter life-span than those that have been chemically pressure-treated. These same posts should taper at the end which makes it easier for the post-pounder to drive them into the ground.\\nIdeally line posts should be sunk in 14 to 18 inches (35.6 to 45.7 cm) deep regardless of terrain. More posts will be needed for more uneven terrain such as the edge of a hill or into a valley.\"}, {\"编号\": 13, \"标题\": \"Put up the rest of the wires.\", \"描述\": \"You will need to judge how many strands you want especially for wire fences. The standard is four wires per fence-line (especially for barbed-wire fencing), but some producers prefer to install five or six-wire fences especially along roads.\\nMake sure each wire is evenly spaced with the other. This is also part of what makes a fence strong and sturdy. If the wires are not evenly spaced it makes it easy for an animal to put its head through the fence or even be able to go right through or under the fence without any problems. You must make it difficult for this to happen.\\nFor board to rail fences, the standard is three board or rails, one on top of the other and evenly spaced per fence line.\"}, {\"编号\": 14, \"标题\": \"Hammer in the staples.\", \"描述\": \"Each line post will need to be connected to the wires strung up by staples. This is important because livestock will find a hole in the fence, and a hole can be a wire that is not connected to a post with a fence staple, or a wire that has been broken from too much pressure exerted on it. The staple should be hammered in at an angle to the wire (never perfectly perpendicular), and the loop slightly pointing up. \\nIt takes a lot of practice to get good at hammering staples in so they look nice and neat. They are not like hammering nails, because the two pointed ends allow for a lot more give than a single-spiked nail. Each blow to the staple must be right on (ideally, blows happening so that the angle of the hammer head is next to perfectly perpendicular to the angle of the post)so that it won't angle up too much into the wood, or bend so much that the staple gets so flat it needs to be replaced. Also, when first attempting to hammer you may miss it so that the staple goes flying off somewhere in the grass and gets lost forever!\\nCheck the perimeter of the fence-line to see if you missed any staples or anything else that may be amiss.\"}, {\"编号\": 15, \"标题\": \"Repeat the steps above for the rest of the fences you need to build.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 16, \"标题\": \"Let the animals out to the pasture.\", \"描述\": \"Once you are done building the fences, you can finally let your animals out to pasture. Keep an eye on them for an hour or so as they wander the perimeter of their new pasture to see if they find a hole to go through. If there's no problems, then you're good to go!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Use a fence-pulling winch or a come-along to tighten the wires. Do not use your own strength to do so because it will never be enough. Reserve your strength for handling posts and hammering in staples.\\n\", \"When building wire fences, you must treat the first fence-line wire as a guide to where to pound your posts in.\\n\", \"Hills and valleys can be tough to fence, especially if they are quite steep. You will need to sink a post in at the base of the hill and hammer the guideline wire to it (the staple should be in the post enough that it holds the wire, but not so much that the wire cannot be moved through the loop of the staple), then sink a post at the top and connect wire to that post.\\n\\nOr, simply roll out the wire along the entire fence-line first, pound in all the line posts, put out all the other wires, stretch them, then go along and pound in the staples, starting at the top of the hill then down. You may have to use a stick or something similar to hoist up or hold down the wire as you tap in the staple with the hammer.\\nThere are many other methods of how to wire up hill-fences, so research and find out what may be the easiest method for you to use.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Make sure you use thick gloves and safety glasses (sunglasses will work as well) when handling barbed wire.\\n\", \"Barbed wire, or any wire is dangerous and needs to be handled with care. Do not carelessly handle it so that it potentially pokes out the eyes of either you or your helper.\\n\", \"It's not a matter of if you will get cut by barbed wire, but when. If you get cut and it's deep, place a gauze or paper towel on the wound immediately and apply pressure to stem the bleeding. Most cuts from wire don't require stitches unless it's really deep and the bleeding won't stop after a minute or so.\\n\", \"Any machine you use with building fences has the potential to do harm. Post pounders are one of those machines: get your fingers caught in the wrong place and you could be in for a lot of trouble.\\n\", \"Make sure you don't stretch the wires too taught otherwise the will break. Wires will break without any warning, so be very careful when stretching them.\\n\", \"Call before you dig.[12]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\\n\\n\\n There's nothing worse than hitting a gas, oil, water or electric line and causing significant damage to equipment or even yourself.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,412
How to Build a Loft Bed
1. Building the Upper Structure 1-1. Measure for the desired height. Decide on the clearance you want underneath the bed. Measure with a measuring tape and write this figure down. Make sure to take into account any furniture that would be going under the bed. 1-2. Attach the headboard to the wall. With a stud finder, locate the studs in the wall and mark the locations with painter's tape. Drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the lag bolts you are using into the wall studs and headboard. Then, attach headboard to the wall using four 4" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench. Use a level to make sure that the headboard is straight. 1-3. Attach the sideboard. Drill pilot holes into the wall studs and sideboard piece and then attach the sideboard to the wall using eight 4" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench. Use a level to make sure that the sideboard is straight. 1-4. Attach the foot board. Drill pilot holes into the end of the sideboard and face of the footboard. Attach the footboard to the sideboard using two 4" lag bolts and washers. 2. Building the Lower Structure 2-1. Create the support post. Cut a support post to the height of clearance plus 4" and attach both 2x4s face to face with ten 2 ½" screws. Alternate the screws on both sides of the 2x4s. 2-2. Level the post. Place a level on top of the footboard. Place the support post in position against footboard and adjust the footboard until it is level. Clamp the footboard and post together or get a helper to hold the footboard and post in place. 2-3. Attach the support post. Drill pilot holes into the face of the footboard and support post. Attach the footboard to the support post with two 4" lag bolts and washers. 2-4. Prepare the outer board. Clamp the outer board to the support post at the proper height or get a helper to hold it in place. A level can come in handy here. 2-5. Attach the outer board. Drill pilot holes through the face of the outer board and into the ends of the headboard, footboard, and the support post. Attach the outer board to the support post, headboard and footboard using six 4" lag bolts and washers (two lag bolts each into the headboard, footboard, and support post). 3. Creating the Slats 3-1. Position and attach the first slat support. Position the slat support on the inside of the outer board so that the top of slat support is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½" screws. 3-2. Position and attach the second slat support. Position the second slat support on the inside of the sideboard so that the top is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½" screws. 3-3. Add the first end support. Position the end support on the inside of the headboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of the side slat supports. Secure it in place with four 2 ½" screws. 3-4. Add the second end support. Position the end support on the inside of the footboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of slat support and the support post. Secure it in place with four 2 ½" screws. 3-5. Add in the slats. Measure and mark the locations of the fourteen slats, creating even spacing along the slat support. Attach each of the 14 slats by drilling a pilot hole at each end into the side slat supports and securing them with two 1 ½" screws. 4. Building the Ladder 4-1. Cut the main ladder boards. Cut the 2x6s for both ladder risers to about 6" longer than the total height of the bed so far. 4-2. Angle the risers. Cut one of the ends of one riser to a 15 degree angle, using the miter or radial arm saw. Lean this piece, the 15 degree cut, on the ground against the outer board in its proper final position and then make a mark even with the top of the outer board. Cut this at 15 degrees also. 4-3. Cut the joining notches. Lean the risers back against the outer board and mark a 1 ½" deep notch on the riser. This will allow the risers to fit securely to the outer board. Cut the notch as far as possible with a rotary saw and finish the cuts with a hand or hacksaw. Use this riser as a template for the other riser and make them match. 4-4. Add the ladder steps. Measure and mark the spaces between the steps of the ladder, making sure each step is level. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the face of the risers and into each step. Secure each step with four 2 ½" screws. 4-5. Attach the main ladder. From the inside of the outer board, drill pilot holes through outer board and into each riser of the finished ladder. Secure it in place with four 2 ½" lag bolts and washers. 4-6. Attach the riser supports. Attach two riser supports to the ladder. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the riser supports and into the riser using four 2 ½" screws. Ensure that the top of the riser supports line up with the top of the side rail. 4-7. Attach the lower riser supports. Attach two raiser supports to the bottom of the ladder by drilling countersunk pilot holes through riser supports and into the ladder using four 2 ½" screws. Ensure that the bottom of the riser supports line up with the bottom of the ladder. 4-8. Secure the ladder. Drill pilot holes through risers and into the outer board. Secure the entire ladder assembly to the outer board using two 4" lag bolts and washers. 4-9. Finished. Buy a twin mattress and enjoy your new bed! Tips When attaching the slats to the slat support, only one screw at each end is required. The screw is not so much a support as something to prevent the slat from sliding around. You'll get a much better look if you round the top and bottom edges of the outward face of the rail supports. To do this, while preparing the rail supports, remove 1/2 of wood at a 45-degree at the top and bottom of one face. Round over with a sander. Warnings This exact design should NOT be used for something wider than a single mattress. To move to a bigger mattress, an additional 2x4 support must be installed between the head and the footboard, perpendicular to the mattress' support slats.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Building the Upper Structure\\n1-1. Measure for the desired height.\\nDecide on the clearance you want underneath the bed. Measure with a measuring tape and write this figure down. Make sure to take into account any furniture that would be going under the bed.\\n1-2. Attach the headboard to the wall.\\nWith a stud finder, locate the studs in the wall and mark the locations with painter's tape. Drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the lag bolts you are using into the wall studs and headboard. Then, attach headboard to the wall using four 4\\\" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench.\\nUse a level to make sure that the headboard is straight.\\n1-3. Attach the sideboard.\\nDrill pilot holes into the wall studs and sideboard piece and then attach the sideboard to the wall using eight 4\\\" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench.\\nUse a level to make sure that the sideboard is straight.\\n1-4. Attach the foot board.\\nDrill pilot holes into the end of the sideboard and face of the footboard. Attach the footboard to the sideboard using two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\\n2. Building the Lower Structure\\n2-1. Create the support post.\\nCut a support post to the height of clearance plus 4\\\" and attach both 2x4s face to face with ten 2 ½\\\" screws. Alternate the screws on both sides of the 2x4s.\\n2-2. Level the post.\\nPlace a level on top of the footboard. Place the support post in position against footboard and adjust the footboard until it is level. Clamp the footboard and post together or get a helper to hold the footboard and post in place.\\n2-3. Attach the support post.\\nDrill pilot holes into the face of the footboard and support post. Attach the footboard to the support post with two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\\n2-4. Prepare the outer board.\\nClamp the outer board to the support post at the proper height or get a helper to hold it in place. A level can come in handy here.\\n2-5. Attach the outer board.\\nDrill pilot holes through the face of the outer board and into the ends of the headboard, footboard, and the support post. Attach the outer board to the support post, headboard and footboard using six 4\\\" lag bolts and washers (two lag bolts each into the headboard, footboard, and support post).\\n3. Creating the Slats\\n3-1. Position and attach the first slat support.\\nPosition the slat support on the inside of the outer board so that the top of slat support is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½\\\" screws.\\n3-2. Position and attach the second slat support.\\nPosition the second slat support on the inside of the sideboard so that the top is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½\\\" screws.\\n3-3. Add the first end support.\\nPosition the end support on the inside of the headboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of the side slat supports. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\\n3-4. Add the second end support.\\nPosition the end support on the inside of the footboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of slat support and the support post. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\\n3-5. Add in the slats.\\nMeasure and mark the locations of the fourteen slats, creating even spacing along the slat support. Attach each of the 14 slats by drilling a pilot hole at each end into the side slat supports and securing them with two 1 ½\\\" screws.\\n4. Building the Ladder\\n4-1. Cut the main ladder boards.\\nCut the 2x6s for both ladder risers to about 6\\\" longer than the total height of the bed so far.\\n4-2. Angle the risers.\\nCut one of the ends of one riser to a 15 degree angle, using the miter or radial arm saw. Lean this piece, the 15 degree cut, on the ground against the outer board in its proper final position and then make a mark even with the top of the outer board. Cut this at 15 degrees also.\\n4-3. Cut the joining notches.\\nLean the risers back against the outer board and mark a 1 ½\\\" deep notch on the riser. This will allow the risers to fit securely to the outer board. Cut the notch as far as possible with a rotary saw and finish the cuts with a hand or hacksaw. Use this riser as a template for the other riser and make them match.\\n4-4. Add the ladder steps.\\nMeasure and mark the spaces between the steps of the ladder, making sure each step is level. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the face of the risers and into each step. Secure each step with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\\n4-5. Attach the main ladder.\\nFrom the inside of the outer board, drill pilot holes through outer board and into each riser of the finished ladder. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" lag bolts and washers.\\n4-6. Attach the riser supports.\\nAttach two riser supports to the ladder. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the riser supports and into the riser using four 2 ½\\\" screws. Ensure that the top of the riser supports line up with the top of the side rail.\\n4-7. Attach the lower riser supports.\\nAttach two raiser supports to the bottom of the ladder by drilling countersunk pilot holes through riser supports and into the ladder using four 2 ½\\\" screws. Ensure that the bottom of the riser supports line up with the bottom of the ladder.\\n4-8. Secure the ladder.\\nDrill pilot holes through risers and into the outer board. Secure the entire ladder assembly to the outer board using two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\\n4-9. Finished.\\nBuy a twin mattress and enjoy your new bed!\\nTips\\nWhen attaching the slats to the slat support, only one screw at each end is required. The screw is not so much a support as something to prevent the slat from sliding around.\\nYou'll get a much better look if you round the top and bottom edges of the outward face of the rail supports. To do this, while preparing the rail supports, remove 1/2 of wood at a 45-degree at the top and bottom of one face. Round over with a sander.\\nWarnings\\nThis exact design should NOT be used for something wider than a single mattress. To move to a bigger mattress, an additional 2x4 support must be installed between the head and the footboard, perpendicular to the mattress' support slats.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"This is one method of building a loft bed by anchoring two of the sides to walls. This reduces the complexity of the project, and makes for a bed that will support a lot of weight. The measurements provided are for building a bed that fits a single mattress.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Building the Upper Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Measure for the desired height.\", \"描述\": \"Decide on the clearance you want underneath the bed. Measure with a measuring tape and write this figure down. Make sure to take into account any furniture that would be going under the bed.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the headboard to the wall.\", \"描述\": \"With a stud finder, locate the studs in the wall and mark the locations with painter's tape. Drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the lag bolts you are using into the wall studs and headboard. Then, attach headboard to the wall using four 4\\\" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench.\\nUse a level to make sure that the headboard is straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the sideboard.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes into the wall studs and sideboard piece and then attach the sideboard to the wall using eight 4\\\" lag bolts and washers. Secure with a ratchet or wrench.\\nUse a level to make sure that the sideboard is straight.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the foot board.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes into the end of the sideboard and face of the footboard. Attach the footboard to the sideboard using two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Building the Lower Structure\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Create the support post.\", \"描述\": \"Cut a support post to the height of clearance plus 4\\\" and attach both 2x4s face to face with ten 2 ½\\\" screws. Alternate the screws on both sides of the 2x4s.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Level the post.\", \"描述\": \"Place a level on top of the footboard. Place the support post in position against footboard and adjust the footboard until it is level. Clamp the footboard and post together or get a helper to hold the footboard and post in place.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Attach the support post.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes into the face of the footboard and support post. Attach the footboard to the support post with two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Prepare the outer board.\", \"描述\": \"Clamp the outer board to the support post at the proper height or get a helper to hold it in place. A level can come in handy here.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the outer board.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes through the face of the outer board and into the ends of the headboard, footboard, and the support post. Attach the outer board to the support post, headboard and footboard using six 4\\\" lag bolts and washers (two lag bolts each into the headboard, footboard, and support post).\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Creating the Slats\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Position and attach the first slat support.\", \"描述\": \"Position the slat support on the inside of the outer board so that the top of slat support is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Position and attach the second slat support.\", \"描述\": \"Position the second slat support on the inside of the sideboard so that the top is even with the top of the support post. Check for level and secure the slat support in place with seven 2 ½\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add the first end support.\", \"描述\": \"Position the end support on the inside of the headboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of the side slat supports. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the second end support.\", \"描述\": \"Position the end support on the inside of the footboard so that the top of the end support is even with the top of slat support and the support post. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Add in the slats.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and mark the locations of the fourteen slats, creating even spacing along the slat support. Attach each of the 14 slats by drilling a pilot hole at each end into the side slat supports and securing them with two 1 ½\\\" screws.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Building the Ladder\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut the main ladder boards.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the 2x6s for both ladder risers to about 6\\\" longer than the total height of the bed so far.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Angle the risers.\", \"描述\": \"Cut one of the ends of one riser to a 15 degree angle, using the miter or radial arm saw. Lean this piece, the 15 degree cut, on the ground against the outer board in its proper final position and then make a mark even with the top of the outer board. Cut this at 15 degrees also.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cut the joining notches.\", \"描述\": \"Lean the risers back against the outer board and mark a 1 ½\\\" deep notch on the riser. This will allow the risers to fit securely to the outer board. Cut the notch as far as possible with a rotary saw and finish the cuts with a hand or hacksaw. Use this riser as a template for the other riser and make them match.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Add the ladder steps.\", \"描述\": \"Measure and mark the spaces between the steps of the ladder, making sure each step is level. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the face of the risers and into each step. Secure each step with four 2 ½\\\" screws.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attach the main ladder.\", \"描述\": \"From the inside of the outer board, drill pilot holes through outer board and into each riser of the finished ladder. Secure it in place with four 2 ½\\\" lag bolts and washers.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Attach the riser supports.\", \"描述\": \"Attach two riser supports to the ladder. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the riser supports and into the riser using four 2 ½\\\" screws. Ensure that the top of the riser supports line up with the top of the side rail.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Attach the lower riser supports.\", \"描述\": \"Attach two raiser supports to the bottom of the ladder by drilling countersunk pilot holes through riser supports and into the ladder using four 2 ½\\\" screws. Ensure that the bottom of the riser supports line up with the bottom of the ladder.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Secure the ladder.\", \"描述\": \"Drill pilot holes through risers and into the outer board. Secure the entire ladder assembly to the outer board using two 4\\\" lag bolts and washers.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Finished.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a twin mattress and enjoy your new bed!\"}], \"小提示\": [\"When attaching the slats to the slat support, only one screw at each end is required. The screw is not so much a support as something to prevent the slat from sliding around.\\n\", \"You'll get a much better look if you round the top and bottom edges of the outward face of the rail supports. To do this, while preparing the rail supports, remove 1/2 of wood at a 45-degree at the top and bottom of one face. Round over with a sander.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"This exact design should NOT be used for something wider than a single mattress. To move to a bigger mattress, an additional 2x4 support must be installed between the head and the footboard, perpendicular to the mattress' support slats.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,413
How to Build a Log Bed
1. Preparing the Logs 1-1. Choose which logs you will use. The best choice is a log from a fire-killed standing dead tree. A wildfire burns diseased trees to the ground, but leaves healthy trees dead but still standing. Therefore, your chances of getting good logs are best from these trees. Fire-killed wood also loses its bark, saving you time when you start building. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/a\/a5\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/a\/a5\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} You can find fallen logs or logs that wash onto a beach or riverbank. You can also buy logs from a sawmill. However, you may find after you start working that these are rotten or have other problems that make them unsuitable. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/8\/8f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/8\/8f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Cut live trees down to get logs if it's legal to do so. You will have to wait about a year for the wood to dry enough to build with it. Stripping the bark will help it dry faster. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/9\/9f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/9\/9f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 1-2. Saw the logs to the lengths you need for bed. Saw 2 4-foot (1.2 m) posts and 2 3-foot (90 cm) posts to make the legs and the ends of the headboard and footboard. The posts should be cut from large, sturdy logs. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/c\/c0\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/c\/c0\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Saw 4 rails to separate the posts. Measure the mattress width and cut the rails to be 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer. When you cut the tenons to fit the rails into the posts, they will be the width of the mattress. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/13\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/13\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Cut spindles to place between the rails of the headboard and footboard. You need 36-inch (90 cm) spindles for the headboard and 24-inch (61 cm) spindles for the footboard. After cutting the tenons, they will measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter. The number of spindles you need depends on the size of the bed. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/9\/9b\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/9\/9b\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Prepare 4 bed rails to connect the headpost to the foot post on each side. Measure the mattress length and cut the bed rails so they're 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f0\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f0\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} 1-3. Remove the bark and shape the logs with drawknives. These are blades with 2 handles that you set against the wood and pull toward you. A curved drawknife removes bark and a straight drawknife shapes the log. 1-4. Form tenons in the rails and spindles. You can do this with a drawknife, but it's easier to do with a tenon maker, which attaches to a drill and operates like a giant pencil sharpener. 1-5. Carve out mortises with a drill and Forstner bits. Frostner bits drill flat-bottomed holes large enough to hold tenons. Mortises for the headboard should be cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 44 inches (1.1 m) from the floor. For the footboard, the mortises are cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 32 inches (80 cm). {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/7e\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/7e\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Spindle mortises are cut so the spindles will be evenly spaced. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/1f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/1f\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"<div class=\"mw-parser-output\"><p>License: <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\" class=\"external text\" href=\"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/\">Creative Commons<\/a><br>\n<\/p><p><br \/>\n<\/p><\/div>"} Mortises for the bottom bed rail are drilled at 5 inches (13 cm) above the floor in all 4 posts. The mortises for the top bed rail are drilled at 13 inches (33 cm) from the floor. 2. Assembling the bed 2-1. Attach a metal eye hook to each post at 12 inches (30 cm) above the floor. Place the eye hooks so you can stretch a cable between the right headpost and left footpost and the left headpost and right footpost. 2-2. Connect cables diagonally between the bedposts using the eye hooks. Use turnbuckles in the centers to tighten the cables and hold the bed together. Adjust as necessary to make sure the bed is square. 2-3. Notch each of the top bed rails near the head and foot so the box spring will fit securely on them without slipping. 2-4. Stain the bed to protect the wood. 2-5. Top the bed with the box spring and mattress. Tips You can buy a log bed kit that has logs that are already cut for the size of your bed, drilled and tenoned so you only have to assemble the bed. Consider using logs that have knots, aren't quite straight of have other unique characteristics. Don't worry if there are cracks in the logs. This is a natural feature of dry wood. If you turn the logs so as to avoid drilling mortises into the cracks, the logs will be just as strong as those without cracks.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Preparing the Logs\\n1-1. Choose which logs you will use.\\nThe best choice is a log from a fire-killed standing dead tree. A wildfire burns diseased trees to the ground, but leaves healthy trees dead but still standing. Therefore, your chances of getting good logs are best from these trees. Fire-killed wood also loses its bark, saving you time when you start building.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou can find fallen logs or logs that wash onto a beach or riverbank. You can also buy logs from a sawmill. However, you may find after you start working that these are rotten or have other problems that make them unsuitable.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\nCut live trees down to get logs if it's legal to do so. You will have to wait about a year for the wood to dry enough to build with it. Stripping the bark will help it dry faster.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-2. Saw the logs to the lengths you need for bed.\\nSaw 2 4-foot (1.2 m) posts and 2 3-foot (90 cm) posts to make the legs and the ends of the headboard and footboard. The posts should be cut from large, sturdy logs.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSaw 4 rails to separate the posts. Measure the mattress width and cut the rails to be 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer. When you cut the tenons to fit the rails into the posts, they will be the width of the mattress.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/13\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/13\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut spindles to place between the rails of the headboard and footboard. You need 36-inch (90 cm) spindles for the headboard and 24-inch (61 cm) spindles for the footboard. After cutting the tenons, they will measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter. The number of spindles you need depends on the size of the bed.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9b\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9b\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nPrepare 4 bed rails to connect the headpost to the foot post on each side. Measure the mattress length and cut the bed rails so they're 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n1-3. Remove the bark and shape the logs with drawknives.\\nThese are blades with 2 handles that you set against the wood and pull toward you. A curved drawknife removes bark and a straight drawknife shapes the log.\\n1-4. Form tenons in the rails and spindles.\\nYou can do this with a drawknife, but it's easier to do with a tenon maker, which attaches to a drill and operates like a giant pencil sharpener.\\n1-5. Carve out mortises with a drill and Forstner bits.\\nFrostner bits drill flat-bottomed holes large enough to hold tenons.\\nMortises for the headboard should be cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 44 inches (1.1 m) from the floor. For the footboard, the mortises are cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 32 inches (80 cm).\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpindle mortises are cut so the spindles will be evenly spaced.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nMortises for the bottom bed rail are drilled at 5 inches (13 cm) above the floor in all 4 posts. The mortises for the top bed rail are drilled at 13 inches (33 cm) from the floor.\\n2. Assembling the bed\\n2-1. Attach a metal eye hook to each post at 12 inches (30 cm) above the floor.\\nPlace the eye hooks so you can stretch a cable between the right headpost and left footpost and the left headpost and right footpost.\\n2-2. Connect cables diagonally between the bedposts using the eye hooks.\\nUse turnbuckles in the centers to tighten the cables and hold the bed together. Adjust as necessary to make sure the bed is square.\\n2-3. Notch each of the top bed rails near the head and foot so the box spring will fit securely on them without slipping.\\n\\n2-4. Stain the bed to protect the wood.\\n\\n2-5. Top the bed with the box spring and mattress.\\n\\nTips\\nYou can buy a log bed kit that has logs that are already cut for the size of your bed, drilled and tenoned so you only have to assemble the bed.\\nConsider using logs that have knots, aren't quite straight of have other unique characteristics.\\nDon't worry if there are cracks in the logs. This is a natural feature of dry wood. If you turn the logs so as to avoid drilling mortises into the cracks, the logs will be just as strong as those without cracks.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"A log bed is a bed frame built entirely from logs that are cut and shaped to fit together without nails or screws. Early log beds were made with crossrails and topped with a mattress. Modern log beds hold a box spring as well as a mattress, and so have no need for crossrails.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Preparing the Logs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Choose which logs you will use.\", \"描述\": \"The best choice is a log from a fire-killed standing dead tree. A wildfire burns diseased trees to the ground, but leaves healthy trees dead but still standing. Therefore, your chances of getting good logs are best from these trees. Fire-killed wood also loses its bark, saving you time when you start building.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/a\\\\/a5\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nYou can find fallen logs or logs that wash onto a beach or riverbank. You can also buy logs from a sawmill. However, you may find after you start working that these are rotten or have other problems that make them unsuitable.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/8\\\\/8f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\n\\nCut live trees down to get logs if it's legal to do so. You will have to wait about a year for the wood to dry enough to build with it. Stripping the bark will help it dry faster.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-1Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Saw the logs to the lengths you need for bed.\", \"描述\": \"Saw 2 4-foot (1.2 m) posts and 2 3-foot (90 cm) posts to make the legs and the ends of the headboard and footboard. The posts should be cut from large, sturdy logs.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/c\\\\/c0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSaw 4 rails to separate the posts. Measure the mattress width and cut the rails to be 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer. When you cut the tenons to fit the rails into the posts, they will be the width of the mattress.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/13\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/13\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nCut spindles to place between the rails of the headboard and footboard. You need 36-inch (90 cm) spindles for the headboard and 24-inch (61 cm) spindles for the footboard. After cutting the tenons, they will measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) shorter. The number of spindles you need depends on the size of the bed.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9b\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/9\\\\/9b\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet3.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nPrepare 4 bed rails to connect the headpost to the foot post on each side. Measure the mattress length and cut the bed rails so they're 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) longer.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/f\\\\/f0\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-2Bullet4.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the bark and shape the logs with drawknives.\", \"描述\": \"These are blades with 2 handles that you set against the wood and pull toward you. A curved drawknife removes bark and a straight drawknife shapes the log.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Form tenons in the rails and spindles.\", \"描述\": \"You can do this with a drawknife, but it's easier to do with a tenon maker, which attaches to a drill and operates like a giant pencil sharpener.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Carve out mortises with a drill and Forstner bits.\", \"描述\": \"Frostner bits drill flat-bottomed holes large enough to hold tenons.\\nMortises for the headboard should be cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 44 inches (1.1 m) from the floor. For the footboard, the mortises are cut at 9 inches (23 cm) and 32 inches (80 cm).\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/7\\\\/7e\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet1.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nSpindle mortises are cut so the spindles will be evenly spaced.\\n\\n{\\\"smallUrl\\\":\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/www.wikihow.com\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/v4-460px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"bigUrl\\\":\\\"\\\\/images\\\\/thumb\\\\/1\\\\/1f\\\\/Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\\/aid1390404-v4-728px-Build-a-Log-Bed-Step-5Bullet2.jpg\\\",\\\"smallWidth\\\":460,\\\"smallHeight\\\":345,\\\"bigWidth\\\":728,\\\"bigHeight\\\":546,\\\"licensing\\\":\\\"<div class=\\\\\\\"mw-parser-output\\\\\\\"><p>License: <a target=\\\\\\\"_blank\\\\\\\" rel=\\\\\\\"nofollow noreferrer noopener\\\\\\\" class=\\\\\\\"external text\\\\\\\" href=\\\\\\\"https:\\\\/\\\\/creativecommons.org\\\\/licenses\\\\/by-nc-sa\\\\/3.0\\\\/\\\\\\\">Creative Commons<\\\\/a><br>\\\\n<\\\\/p><p><br \\\\/>\\\\n<\\\\/p><\\\\/div>\\\"}\\nMortises for the bottom bed rail are drilled at 5 inches (13 cm) above the floor in all 4 posts. The mortises for the top bed rail are drilled at 13 inches (33 cm) from the floor.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Assembling the bed\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Attach a metal eye hook to each post at 12 inches (30 cm) above the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Place the eye hooks so you can stretch a cable between the right headpost and left footpost and the left headpost and right footpost.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Connect cables diagonally between the bedposts using the eye hooks.\", \"描述\": \"Use turnbuckles in the centers to tighten the cables and hold the bed together. Adjust as necessary to make sure the bed is square.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Notch each of the top bed rails near the head and foot so the box spring will fit securely on them without slipping.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Stain the bed to protect the wood.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Top the bed with the box spring and mattress.\", \"描述\": \"\"}], \"小提示\": [\"You can buy a log bed kit that has logs that are already cut for the size of your bed, drilled and tenoned so you only have to assemble the bed.\\n\", \"Consider using logs that have knots, aren't quite straight of have other unique characteristics.\\n\", \"Don't worry if there are cracks in the logs. This is a natural feature of dry wood. If you turn the logs so as to avoid drilling mortises into the cracks, the logs will be just as strong as those without cracks.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,414
How to Build a Log House
1. Planning Your Log House 1-1. Decide on a log house or a log cabin. While the 2 terms are very similar, the outcomes are slightly different. A log cabin is a smaller, less modern version of a log house that’s usually secluded out in the woods somewhere. A log house is any structure made of wooden logs, with amenities just like any other home would have. In other words: log cabins are usually found in the woods, while log houses can be put anywhere. You might choose to build a log house as your vacation home, your beach house, or as your main living area. 1-2. Hire a builder if you want your log house done quickly. You have 2 options for building your log house: a professional builder, which will save you time but might cost more, or a DIY option, which can cut costs but might stretch your timeline. You can look around at professionals in your area to get a sense of how much it might cost to get your log home done by a builder, then make a decision based on that. Usually, log houses cost about $20,000 in total. This price can fluctuate based on size, location, and timeline. The length of time varies from home to home, but log houses usually take around 9 months to complete. 1-3. Go for a kit to get all your materials at once. Believe it or not, there are actually log house kits that you can purchase for an all-inclusive, one-time cost. The kits come with everything you’ll need to complete your house, including lumber, plumbing, electrical, and insulation. The main drawback of a log house kit is that it’s less customizable, so you may end up with a home that looks the same as someone else’s. Log house kits range in price, but they’re usually between $20,000 and $35,000. If you purchase a kit and it doesn’t work for you, contact the manufacturer to talk about a replacement or a refund. Some kits give you the option of looking around for your own local materials to find the best price. If you don’t want to use a kit, you’ll have to work with an architect or an engineer to create blueprints for your log home. 1-4. Plan for challenges along the way. Just like a normal home, log houses do come with some difficulties that you might have to account for. Rot, moisture from the ground, UV rays, wind, and pests can all wreak havoc on your log house during and after the building process. If you’re getting your log house built by a professional, you can discuss where the best area is to mitigate most of these problems. Otherwise, try to choose a location that has mostly dry soil and large trees for shade. Tall foundations can help keep bugs and insects out of your home. 1-5. Get a building permit. Submit your plans to the local permit office for approval before you start any work on your log house. You will also need to find out what building codes you log home needs to adhere to, since these can vary from state to state. If you’re working with a professional, they can point you in the right direction; otherwise, ask your local permit office. Building codes usually ensure that your house is up to safety standards so that you and your family can live in it without doing any harm to yourself or the environment around you. 2. Starting Your Log House 2-1. Set your budget. Log homes can easily cost upwards of $30,000, and it’s best to be prepared for the bill. Set aside your money and try to stick to your budget as much as you can to avoid overspending and going into debt. You may be able to get a loan from your bank to cover the costs up front. 2-2. Use whole, round, non-milled logs. Like you may have guessed, the logs you use for your home are super important. When you’re purchasing your materials, go for whole, round, non-milled logs to protect the integrity of your home over time. You can purchase these from most lumber yards or specialized lumber yards that sell materials for log homes and cabins. Stay away from flat logs, or logs that interlock into each other. These can cause rot and lead to damage over time, so it’s best to go for completely rounded logs. 2-3. Build in at least 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang. The overhang, or the part of the roof that hangs out over the walls, protects your logs from wind, rain, and rot. At the bare minimum, you should factor in 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang, if not more, to protect your logs and keep them around for a long time. If you’re working with an experienced builder, they’ll probably know this already, but it’s always good to keep in mind. 2-4. Get enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling. Insulation is something that many log homes don’t have, but not using insulation can cause the wood to overheat or freeze. At a minimum, try to use enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling to keep your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter. You can also look into installing drywall in the interior for more insulation, but it’s not totally necessary. 2-5. Avoid starting your log home in the winter. The winter months bring freezing temperatures and bad weather, which can lead to rot or splitting. Try to do most of your construction during the warmer months when the weather is mild so you can start out with dry, clean materials. Weather can cause delays in construction, so it’s always good to set aside some time in your timeline for unforeseen circumstances. 3. Constructing the Log House 3-1. Source and prepare your logs. The logs you use are super important, and you need to dry them out really well before you start. If you’re getting your logs cut from a lumber yard, give them at least 2 months to finish all of them before you start building. If you’re cutting your logs yourself, dry them out for at least 6 months before you start building your home. Using wet logs can cause shrinkage and lead to warping later on. It’s always better to take the time now than regret it later on. 3-2. Clear and level your land. You’ll need a perfectly level foundation to start your log house on, so get to digging! If there’s vegetation and rocks in the way, this process could take up to a week. If you have to level out a hillside or a slope, it could take much longer. You can use shovels or an excavator for large plots. If your ground isn’t level, your house won’t be level. 3-3. Pour the foundation. The foundation must be below the frost line, which is usually about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in the ground. There are a few different foundation types you can use, and you can choose them based on what your budget is and how long you have. Most foundations take about 3 weeks to install from start to finish, so allow a good chunk of time for this process. The foundation types include: Strip foundation: most expensive and most time-consuming, but it can help level out uneven ground. Raft foundation: less expensive and time-consuming, and it can help evenly distribute the weight of the house. Concrete pier foundation: the easiest and least expensive, but it does take some excavation work before you can pour it. 3-4. Lay the first 4 logs on the foundation. Now comes the actual construction of your log house! To fit the logs together, use a chainsaw to carve out a notch into 2 of the logs. Then, lay down the 2 notched logs on the foundation with the 2 un-notched logs on top in a square shape. Now you’ve got your first layer of logs of your log house. Notching your own logs can take a long time, so try to buy them pre-notched, if you can. Making a notch with a chainsaw usually takes around 5 minutes. While this sounds quick, when you’re doing it for each log, it can be a huge time-sink. 3-5. Install the floor. Attach floor joists about 14 in (36 cm) apart across the 4 initial logs that you installed previously, using notches to attach each one. Then, lay your flooring planks across the joists to keep them in place and make your floor. The floors are usually pretty quick to install, since you don’t need much hardware for them. Try to use 2 by 7 inches (5.1 by 17.8 cm) logs for the joists so your floor is level and secure. If you’re adding insulation to the floor, put it on top of the joists but underneath the flooring planks. 3-6. Stack the logs to create walls. Now you can take the rest of your logs and stack them one on top of the other to create the 4 walls of your home. If your logs aren’t notched already, you’ll have to add notches to each one before you place them. If your logs are from a kit or a lumber yard, this part will go quickly since you won’t have to notch them on your own. Remember to always look at the plans you created to make sure you’re using the right amount of logs. The width and height of your walls depends on the overall size of your home, so it’s different for every log house. 3-7. Carve out doors and windows. Mark out where you’d like to install doors and windows in your home, then use a chainsaw to cut holes in the walls to make room for them. Then, you can install your windows by fitting them into place and add a door by using hinges. This part doesn’t take very long, but make sure your measurements are precise! It’s better to cut too little at first than too much. 3-8. Frame and attach the roof. You’re almost done! Now you have to decide on what kind of roof you’d like (thatched, shingles, metal, and felt are all popular options) before adding a frame. Once you have your roof frame, you can add notches into the roofing joists and attach the rest of your roof. The length of time for this process depends on your materials, but it usually takes anywhere from 1 day to 1 week. 3-9. Clean and stain your logs. It’s time to protect the home you worked so hard for. Use a rag and water to clean off the exterior of your home, then paint on a wood stain to protect it from UV rays. You can choose any wood stain that you’d like, as long as you reapply it every 18 to 24 months. Not staining your wood can lead to damage and rot, so it’s a really important step. If staining at the end is too difficult, you can also stain each log as you construct your house. 3-10. Seal your log house with caulk. To keep out moisture, grab a caulking gun and use it to apply caulk along the length of your joists. You should fill any crack or split that’s over 2 cm (0.79 in) wide to avoid problems in the future. Once the caulk dries, you can sand it down and clean it off for a nice finish. You might want to keep your caulk around for the future just in case you notice any cracks later on. Tips Talk to a professional architect or engineer before you start construction to make sure your plans are realistic. If you don’t have much experience in construction, a log house kit is your best bet. Warnings Log houses require a lot of maintenance, and they can rot if they aren’t cared for properly.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Planning Your Log House\\n1-1. Decide on a log house or a log cabin.\\nWhile the 2 terms are very similar, the outcomes are slightly different. A log cabin is a smaller, less modern version of a log house that’s usually secluded out in the woods somewhere. A log house is any structure made of wooden logs, with amenities just like any other home would have.\\nIn other words: log cabins are usually found in the woods, while log houses can be put anywhere.\\nYou might choose to build a log house as your vacation home, your beach house, or as your main living area.\\n1-2. Hire a builder if you want your log house done quickly.\\nYou have 2 options for building your log house: a professional builder, which will save you time but might cost more, or a DIY option, which can cut costs but might stretch your timeline. You can look around at professionals in your area to get a sense of how much it might cost to get your log home done by a builder, then make a decision based on that.\\nUsually, log houses cost about $20,000 in total. This price can fluctuate based on size, location, and timeline.\\nThe length of time varies from home to home, but log houses usually take around 9 months to complete.\\n1-3. Go for a kit to get all your materials at once.\\nBelieve it or not, there are actually log house kits that you can purchase for an all-inclusive, one-time cost. The kits come with everything you’ll need to complete your house, including lumber, plumbing, electrical, and insulation. The main drawback of a log house kit is that it’s less customizable, so you may end up with a home that looks the same as someone else’s.\\nLog house kits range in price, but they’re usually between $20,000 and $35,000.\\nIf you purchase a kit and it doesn’t work for you, contact the manufacturer to talk about a replacement or a refund.\\nSome kits give you the option of looking around for your own local materials to find the best price.\\nIf you don’t want to use a kit, you’ll have to work with an architect or an engineer to create blueprints for your log home.\\n1-4. Plan for challenges along the way.\\nJust like a normal home, log houses do come with some difficulties that you might have to account for. Rot, moisture from the ground, UV rays, wind, and pests can all wreak havoc on your log house during and after the building process.\\nIf you’re getting your log house built by a professional, you can discuss where the best area is to mitigate most of these problems. Otherwise, try to choose a location that has mostly dry soil and large trees for shade.\\nTall foundations can help keep bugs and insects out of your home.\\n1-5. Get a building permit.\\nSubmit your plans to the local permit office for approval before you start any work on your log house. You will also need to find out what building codes you log home needs to adhere to, since these can vary from state to state. If you’re working with a professional, they can point you in the right direction; otherwise, ask your local permit office.\\nBuilding codes usually ensure that your house is up to safety standards so that you and your family can live in it without doing any harm to yourself or the environment around you.\\n2. Starting Your Log House\\n2-1. Set your budget.\\nLog homes can easily cost upwards of $30,000, and it’s best to be prepared for the bill. Set aside your money and try to stick to your budget as much as you can to avoid overspending and going into debt.\\nYou may be able to get a loan from your bank to cover the costs up front.\\n2-2. Use whole, round, non-milled logs.\\nLike you may have guessed, the logs you use for your home are super important. When you’re purchasing your materials, go for whole, round, non-milled logs to protect the integrity of your home over time.\\nYou can purchase these from most lumber yards or specialized lumber yards that sell materials for log homes and cabins.\\nStay away from flat logs, or logs that interlock into each other. These can cause rot and lead to damage over time, so it’s best to go for completely rounded logs.\\n2-3. Build in at least 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang.\\nThe overhang, or the part of the roof that hangs out over the walls, protects your logs from wind, rain, and rot. At the bare minimum, you should factor in 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang, if not more, to protect your logs and keep them around for a long time.\\nIf you’re working with an experienced builder, they’ll probably know this already, but it’s always good to keep in mind.\\n2-4. Get enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling.\\nInsulation is something that many log homes don’t have, but not using insulation can cause the wood to overheat or freeze. At a minimum, try to use enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling to keep your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter.\\nYou can also look into installing drywall in the interior for more insulation, but it’s not totally necessary.\\n2-5. Avoid starting your log home in the winter.\\nThe winter months bring freezing temperatures and bad weather, which can lead to rot or splitting. Try to do most of your construction during the warmer months when the weather is mild so you can start out with dry, clean materials.\\nWeather can cause delays in construction, so it’s always good to set aside some time in your timeline for unforeseen circumstances.\\n3. Constructing the Log House\\n3-1. Source and prepare your logs.\\nThe logs you use are super important, and you need to dry them out really well before you start. If you’re getting your logs cut from a lumber yard, give them at least 2 months to finish all of them before you start building. If you’re cutting your logs yourself, dry them out for at least 6 months before you start building your home.\\nUsing wet logs can cause shrinkage and lead to warping later on. It’s always better to take the time now than regret it later on.\\n3-2. Clear and level your land.\\nYou’ll need a perfectly level foundation to start your log house on, so get to digging! If there’s vegetation and rocks in the way, this process could take up to a week. If you have to level out a hillside or a slope, it could take much longer. You can use shovels or an excavator for large plots.\\nIf your ground isn’t level, your house won’t be level.\\n3-3. Pour the foundation.\\nThe foundation must be below the frost line, which is usually about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in the ground. There are a few different foundation types you can use, and you can choose them based on what your budget is and how long you have. Most foundations take about 3 weeks to install from start to finish, so allow a good chunk of time for this process. The foundation types include:\\nStrip foundation: most expensive and most time-consuming, but it can help level out uneven ground.\\nRaft foundation: less expensive and time-consuming, and it can help evenly distribute the weight of the house.\\nConcrete pier foundation: the easiest and least expensive, but it does take some excavation work before you can pour it.\\n3-4. Lay the first 4 logs on the foundation.\\nNow comes the actual construction of your log house! To fit the logs together, use a chainsaw to carve out a notch into 2 of the logs. Then, lay down the 2 notched logs on the foundation with the 2 un-notched logs on top in a square shape. Now you’ve got your first layer of logs of your log house.\\nNotching your own logs can take a long time, so try to buy them pre-notched, if you can.\\nMaking a notch with a chainsaw usually takes around 5 minutes. While this sounds quick, when you’re doing it for each log, it can be a huge time-sink.\\n3-5. Install the floor.\\nAttach floor joists about 14 in (36 cm) apart across the 4 initial logs that you installed previously, using notches to attach each one. Then, lay your flooring planks across the joists to keep them in place and make your floor. The floors are usually pretty quick to install, since you don’t need much hardware for them.\\nTry to use 2 by 7 inches (5.1 by 17.8 cm) logs for the joists so your floor is level and secure.\\nIf you’re adding insulation to the floor, put it on top of the joists but underneath the flooring planks.\\n3-6. Stack the logs to create walls.\\nNow you can take the rest of your logs and stack them one on top of the other to create the 4 walls of your home. If your logs aren’t notched already, you’ll have to add notches to each one before you place them. If your logs are from a kit or a lumber yard, this part will go quickly since you won’t have to notch them on your own.\\nRemember to always look at the plans you created to make sure you’re using the right amount of logs.\\nThe width and height of your walls depends on the overall size of your home, so it’s different for every log house.\\n3-7. Carve out doors and windows.\\nMark out where you’d like to install doors and windows in your home, then use a chainsaw to cut holes in the walls to make room for them. Then, you can install your windows by fitting them into place and add a door by using hinges. This part doesn’t take very long, but make sure your measurements are precise!\\nIt’s better to cut too little at first than too much.\\n3-8. Frame and attach the roof.\\nYou’re almost done! Now you have to decide on what kind of roof you’d like (thatched, shingles, metal, and felt are all popular options) before adding a frame. Once you have your roof frame, you can add notches into the roofing joists and attach the rest of your roof.\\nThe length of time for this process depends on your materials, but it usually takes anywhere from 1 day to 1 week.\\n3-9. Clean and stain your logs.\\nIt’s time to protect the home you worked so hard for. Use a rag and water to clean off the exterior of your home, then paint on a wood stain to protect it from UV rays. You can choose any wood stain that you’d like, as long as you reapply it every 18 to 24 months.\\nNot staining your wood can lead to damage and rot, so it’s a really important step.\\nIf staining at the end is too difficult, you can also stain each log as you construct your house.\\n3-10. Seal your log house with caulk.\\nTo keep out moisture, grab a caulking gun and use it to apply caulk along the length of your joists. You should fill any crack or split that’s over 2 cm (0.79 in) wide to avoid problems in the future. Once the caulk dries, you can sand it down and clean it off for a nice finish.\\nYou might want to keep your caulk around for the future just in case you notice any cracks later on.\\nTips\\nTalk to a professional architect or engineer before you start construction to make sure your plans are realistic.\\nIf you don’t have much experience in construction, a log house kit is your best bet.\\nWarnings\\nLog houses require a lot of maintenance, and they can rot if they aren’t cared for properly.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Do you dream of living in a beautiful log home, surrounded by nature? Building a log house can help you achieve that dream while still keeping some of the amenities of a traditional home. You can hire a professional to do it for you, or you can take a DIY approach for a more hands-on experience. Knowing your way around some basic concepts can make the process go quickly and smoothly, and if all goes well, you could be enjoying your log house in about 1 year!\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Planning Your Log House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Decide on a log house or a log cabin.\", \"描述\": \"While the 2 terms are very similar, the outcomes are slightly different. A log cabin is a smaller, less modern version of a log house that’s usually secluded out in the woods somewhere. A log house is any structure made of wooden logs, with amenities just like any other home would have.\\nIn other words: log cabins are usually found in the woods, while log houses can be put anywhere.\\nYou might choose to build a log house as your vacation home, your beach house, or as your main living area.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Hire a builder if you want your log house done quickly.\", \"描述\": \"You have 2 options for building your log house: a professional builder, which will save you time but might cost more, or a DIY option, which can cut costs but might stretch your timeline. You can look around at professionals in your area to get a sense of how much it might cost to get your log home done by a builder, then make a decision based on that.\\nUsually, log houses cost about $20,000 in total. This price can fluctuate based on size, location, and timeline.\\nThe length of time varies from home to home, but log houses usually take around 9 months to complete.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Go for a kit to get all your materials at once.\", \"描述\": \"Believe it or not, there are actually log house kits that you can purchase for an all-inclusive, one-time cost. The kits come with everything you’ll need to complete your house, including lumber, plumbing, electrical, and insulation. The main drawback of a log house kit is that it’s less customizable, so you may end up with a home that looks the same as someone else’s.\\nLog house kits range in price, but they’re usually between $20,000 and $35,000.\\nIf you purchase a kit and it doesn’t work for you, contact the manufacturer to talk about a replacement or a refund.\\nSome kits give you the option of looking around for your own local materials to find the best price.\\nIf you don’t want to use a kit, you’ll have to work with an architect or an engineer to create blueprints for your log home.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Plan for challenges along the way.\", \"描述\": \"Just like a normal home, log houses do come with some difficulties that you might have to account for. Rot, moisture from the ground, UV rays, wind, and pests can all wreak havoc on your log house during and after the building process.\\nIf you’re getting your log house built by a professional, you can discuss where the best area is to mitigate most of these problems. Otherwise, try to choose a location that has mostly dry soil and large trees for shade.\\nTall foundations can help keep bugs and insects out of your home.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get a building permit.\", \"描述\": \"Submit your plans to the local permit office for approval before you start any work on your log house. You will also need to find out what building codes you log home needs to adhere to, since these can vary from state to state. If you’re working with a professional, they can point you in the right direction; otherwise, ask your local permit office.\\nBuilding codes usually ensure that your house is up to safety standards so that you and your family can live in it without doing any harm to yourself or the environment around you.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Starting Your Log House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Set your budget.\", \"描述\": \"Log homes can easily cost upwards of $30,000, and it’s best to be prepared for the bill. Set aside your money and try to stick to your budget as much as you can to avoid overspending and going into debt.\\nYou may be able to get a loan from your bank to cover the costs up front.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use whole, round, non-milled logs.\", \"描述\": \"Like you may have guessed, the logs you use for your home are super important. When you’re purchasing your materials, go for whole, round, non-milled logs to protect the integrity of your home over time.\\nYou can purchase these from most lumber yards or specialized lumber yards that sell materials for log homes and cabins.\\nStay away from flat logs, or logs that interlock into each other. These can cause rot and lead to damage over time, so it’s best to go for completely rounded logs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Build in at least 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang.\", \"描述\": \"The overhang, or the part of the roof that hangs out over the walls, protects your logs from wind, rain, and rot. At the bare minimum, you should factor in 7 ft (2.1 m) of overhang, if not more, to protect your logs and keep them around for a long time.\\nIf you’re working with an experienced builder, they’ll probably know this already, but it’s always good to keep in mind.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Get enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling.\", \"描述\": \"Insulation is something that many log homes don’t have, but not using insulation can cause the wood to overheat or freeze. At a minimum, try to use enough insulation to cover the floor and the ceiling to keep your house cool in the summer and warm in the winter.\\nYou can also look into installing drywall in the interior for more insulation, but it’s not totally necessary.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Avoid starting your log home in the winter.\", \"描述\": \"The winter months bring freezing temperatures and bad weather, which can lead to rot or splitting. Try to do most of your construction during the warmer months when the weather is mild so you can start out with dry, clean materials.\\nWeather can cause delays in construction, so it’s always good to set aside some time in your timeline for unforeseen circumstances.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Constructing the Log House\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Source and prepare your logs.\", \"描述\": \"The logs you use are super important, and you need to dry them out really well before you start. If you’re getting your logs cut from a lumber yard, give them at least 2 months to finish all of them before you start building. If you’re cutting your logs yourself, dry them out for at least 6 months before you start building your home.\\nUsing wet logs can cause shrinkage and lead to warping later on. It’s always better to take the time now than regret it later on.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Clear and level your land.\", \"描述\": \"You’ll need a perfectly level foundation to start your log house on, so get to digging! If there’s vegetation and rocks in the way, this process could take up to a week. If you have to level out a hillside or a slope, it could take much longer. You can use shovels or an excavator for large plots.\\nIf your ground isn’t level, your house won’t be level.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Pour the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"The foundation must be below the frost line, which is usually about 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in the ground. There are a few different foundation types you can use, and you can choose them based on what your budget is and how long you have. Most foundations take about 3 weeks to install from start to finish, so allow a good chunk of time for this process. The foundation types include:\\nStrip foundation: most expensive and most time-consuming, but it can help level out uneven ground.\\nRaft foundation: less expensive and time-consuming, and it can help evenly distribute the weight of the house.\\nConcrete pier foundation: the easiest and least expensive, but it does take some excavation work before you can pour it.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Lay the first 4 logs on the foundation.\", \"描述\": \"Now comes the actual construction of your log house! To fit the logs together, use a chainsaw to carve out a notch into 2 of the logs. Then, lay down the 2 notched logs on the foundation with the 2 un-notched logs on top in a square shape. Now you’ve got your first layer of logs of your log house.\\nNotching your own logs can take a long time, so try to buy them pre-notched, if you can.\\nMaking a notch with a chainsaw usually takes around 5 minutes. While this sounds quick, when you’re doing it for each log, it can be a huge time-sink.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Install the floor.\", \"描述\": \"Attach floor joists about 14 in (36 cm) apart across the 4 initial logs that you installed previously, using notches to attach each one. Then, lay your flooring planks across the joists to keep them in place and make your floor. The floors are usually pretty quick to install, since you don’t need much hardware for them.\\nTry to use 2 by 7 inches (5.1 by 17.8 cm) logs for the joists so your floor is level and secure.\\nIf you’re adding insulation to the floor, put it on top of the joists but underneath the flooring planks.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Stack the logs to create walls.\", \"描述\": \"Now you can take the rest of your logs and stack them one on top of the other to create the 4 walls of your home. If your logs aren’t notched already, you’ll have to add notches to each one before you place them. If your logs are from a kit or a lumber yard, this part will go quickly since you won’t have to notch them on your own.\\nRemember to always look at the plans you created to make sure you’re using the right amount of logs.\\nThe width and height of your walls depends on the overall size of your home, so it’s different for every log house.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Carve out doors and windows.\", \"描述\": \"Mark out where you’d like to install doors and windows in your home, then use a chainsaw to cut holes in the walls to make room for them. Then, you can install your windows by fitting them into place and add a door by using hinges. This part doesn’t take very long, but make sure your measurements are precise!\\nIt’s better to cut too little at first than too much.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Frame and attach the roof.\", \"描述\": \"You’re almost done! Now you have to decide on what kind of roof you’d like (thatched, shingles, metal, and felt are all popular options) before adding a frame. Once you have your roof frame, you can add notches into the roofing joists and attach the rest of your roof.\\nThe length of time for this process depends on your materials, but it usually takes anywhere from 1 day to 1 week.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Clean and stain your logs.\", \"描述\": \"It’s time to protect the home you worked so hard for. Use a rag and water to clean off the exterior of your home, then paint on a wood stain to protect it from UV rays. You can choose any wood stain that you’d like, as long as you reapply it every 18 to 24 months.\\nNot staining your wood can lead to damage and rot, so it’s a really important step.\\nIf staining at the end is too difficult, you can also stain each log as you construct your house.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Seal your log house with caulk.\", \"描述\": \"To keep out moisture, grab a caulking gun and use it to apply caulk along the length of your joists. You should fill any crack or split that’s over 2 cm (0.79 in) wide to avoid problems in the future. Once the caulk dries, you can sand it down and clean it off for a nice finish.\\nYou might want to keep your caulk around for the future just in case you notice any cracks later on.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Talk to a professional architect or engineer before you start construction to make sure your plans are realistic.\\n\", \"If you don’t have much experience in construction, a log house kit is your best bet.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Log houses require a lot of maintenance, and they can rot if they aren’t cared for properly.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,415
How to Build a Log Raft
1. Gathering and Preparing the Logs 1-1. Gather eight 8 ft (2.4 m) logs that are about 12 inches (30 cm) thick. These will be the main, floating logs that make the raft's body. Great choices of wood include cottonwood, poplar, and spruce. Don't use heavy, dense woods, such as oak, or they won’t float. Find your logs in a forest or buy them from a logger. If you're in a forest but can't identify trees, choose logs that feel lighter compared to others. Use a handsaw to cut down longer logs until they are about 8 feet (240 cm) long. You can also use a hatchet to chop down saplings. Don’t use logs that feel heavy. It means that they are waterlogged and won't float as well. 1-2. Find two 9 ft (2.7 m) logs that are about 6 inches (15 cm) thick. These will be the connecting logs, which you'll be placing across the body of your raft. You need the extra length so that you can secure the ropes to them. Use the same type of wood that you did for the main logs. 1-3. Remove the knots and bark with a hatchet. While removing the bark is not absolutely necessary, removing the knots, stubs, and smaller branches is. If you don't do this, then the raft won't fit together as nicely. Use a hatchet to hack off the little knots, stubs, and branches stemming off of your logs. If you are camping, consider saving the bark and knots for kindling. 1-4. Cut notches into the logs if you have the time. This is not completely necessary, but it is highly recommended because it will help the logs fit together better. Use a hatchet to make 2 in (5.1 cm) deep notches into both ends of each log. Make sure that the notches span the width of the log and are about 1 to 1 ⁄2 feet (30 to 46 cm) from the ends. Make sure that the notches are on the same side of each log, sort of like those you'd use to make a log cabin. Alternatively, flatten the entire side of each log with a hatchet. 1-5. Varnish the logs This will help make the wood water-tight and keep it from rotting. Use a brush to apply 3 to 5 thin coats of varnish, allowing each coat to dry to the touch before applying the next. After you've applied the last coat, wait for the varnish to dry and cure completely. This may take a few days. You don’t have to do this, but it can help make your raft last longer, especially if you plan on using it more than once. 2. Creating the Frame 2-1. Bring your logs into the water. You need to go far enough from the shore so that logs can float; about calf-deep should be fine. Not only will this make it easier to assemble the logs, but you won't have to drag the completed raft across dry land. Roll the logs towards the body of water. You can also drag them by hand, or pull them with rope. If the logs are too heavy for you, ask a friend to help you bring them into the water. You don't have to bring all of the logs into the water, but have them close by so that you can easily grab them. 2-2. Place 2 floater logs parallel to each other, about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. If you have not already, pull 2 of your main floater logs into the water, and place them side-by-side. Orient them horizontally so that they make an equals (=) sign. Make the logs about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. You are using your 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 10 to 12 in (25 to 30 cm) thick logs for this. 2-3. Set your thin, connecting logs across the 2 main logs. You should end up with a rough square or rectangle shape. Place these logs about 12 inches (30 cm) from the ends of the floater logs. Move the floater logs closer or further from each other until the ends of the connector logs stick out by about 6 inches (15 cm). If you flattened 1 side on each log, make sure that the flat sides are touching. If you cut notches into the logs, then make sure that the notches are facing each other so that they fit. 2-4. Tie your rope around a connecting log using a clove hitch knot. Choose a connecting log to start with, then drape the end of your rope across the end, right next to the left floater log. Wrap the rope's short end around the connecting log. Cross it over the longer end of the rope to create a slant. Bring it under the connecting log, then pull it under the slanted rope. Give it a pull to tighten the knot. The short end of your rope needs to be long enough to wrap around the circumference of your connecting log 2 to 3 times. 2-5. Wrap the working end of the rope around the floating log to make an X. Take the longer, working end of the rope. Wrap it around the floating log once, then pull it across the connecting log at an angle. Wrap it around the floating log again, then cross it over the connecting log to make an X shape. Pull the rope tightly so that the logs don't slide around. 2-6. Tie the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot. Wrap the rope loosely around the connecting log, making sure that you're on the other side of the main log (working away from the clove hitch knot). Pull the rope under the looped rope, then give it a sharp tug to tighten the knot. 2-7. Repeat the process for the bottom connecting log on the left side. Take a new piece of rope and tie it to the end of the bottom connecting log using a clove hitch knot. Wrap it around the main log 2 times to make an X, then wrap it around the connecting log once. Finish off with an overhand knot. Don't tie the connecting logs to the right side of the frame just yet. You will do that last. 3. Finishing the Raft 3-1. Slide your next floater log into place. Take another 8 ft (2.4 m) floater log and push it under the 2 connecting logs. Roll it towards the left side of the frame. Make sure that the ends of this log are aligned with the ends of the first log. 3-2. Wrap the rope around the main log, to each side of the connecting log. Go to the top connecting log and wrap the rope around it once. Next, wrap it around the main log to 1 side of the connecting log. Bring it under the main log, then wrap it around the main log again, this time to the other side of the connecting log. You don't have to make an X with the ropes like you did for the frame, but you can if you want to. 3-3. Wrap the rope around the connector log, finishing with an overhand knot. This is just like what you did when doing the frame. Wrap the rope around the connecting log once, then pull the rope under the wrapped rope to create an overhand knot. This completes your wrapping pattern. 3-4. Tie more logs to the top connecting log until you reach the right side. Follow the same process as you did before. Wrap the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot. Add the next log, then wrap or cross it 2 times around the log. Wrap it around the connecting log with an overhand knot, add another main log, and so forth. You may end up with some gaps between the logs, which is fine. The last log may end up more or less than 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the connecting log. This is okay. 3-5. Finish with a clove hitch knot. Wrap the rope around the end of the connecting log. Cross it over the wrapped rope, then wrap it under the log again. As you're coming up, pull it under the crossed rope, then pull it tightly. Cut off the excess rope with a hatchet or scissors. 3-6. Repeat the entire process for the bottom connecting log. This side will be a little tricky because you'll have to move the logs around more in order to wrap the rope around them. You may have to uncoil the rope and push it through the spaces between the logs, like threading a needle. Make sure that the logs are straight as you tie them. You may have to slide them a little to the left or right so that they are not crooked. Tips The diameter does not have to be exactly 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), but it should be close. It's more important that all of the logs are the same thickness. If the logs taper, alternate the directions that they point in, sort of like stacking binders together. If you don't have rope, you can pin the logs together using 12 in (30 cm) long pins made from a hardwood, such as oak. Make the pins sharp at 1 end, like a stake. Warnings Use your raft responsibly. Taking it out onto a lake or slow-moving river is fine. Do not take it out into rapid waters or onto long ocean voyages. Double-check with your local authorities before taking your raft out to a certain body of water. Not all places will allow rafts.[18] X Research source Always wear a life jacket when using your raft. Even though it is durable, there is a chance that it may fall apart; you want to be prepared.[19] X Research source
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Gathering and Preparing the Logs\\n1-1. Gather eight 8 ft (2.4 m) logs that are about 12 inches (30 cm) thick.\\nThese will be the main, floating logs that make the raft's body. Great choices of wood include cottonwood, poplar, and spruce. Don't use heavy, dense woods, such as oak, or they won’t float.\\nFind your logs in a forest or buy them from a logger. If you're in a forest but can't identify trees, choose logs that feel lighter compared to others.\\nUse a handsaw to cut down longer logs until they are about 8 feet (240 cm) long. You can also use a hatchet to chop down saplings.\\nDon’t use logs that feel heavy. It means that they are waterlogged and won't float as well.\\n1-2. Find two 9 ft (2.7 m) logs that are about 6 inches (15 cm) thick.\\nThese will be the connecting logs, which you'll be placing across the body of your raft. You need the extra length so that you can secure the ropes to them.\\nUse the same type of wood that you did for the main logs.\\n1-3. Remove the knots and bark with a hatchet.\\nWhile removing the bark is not absolutely necessary, removing the knots, stubs, and smaller branches is. If you don't do this, then the raft won't fit together as nicely.\\nUse a hatchet to hack off the little knots, stubs, and branches stemming off of your logs.\\nIf you are camping, consider saving the bark and knots for kindling.\\n1-4. Cut notches into the logs if you have the time.\\nThis is not completely necessary, but it is highly recommended because it will help the logs fit together better. Use a hatchet to make 2 in (5.1 cm) deep notches into both ends of each log. Make sure that the notches span the width of the log and are about 1 to 1 ⁄2 feet (30 to 46 cm) from the ends.\\nMake sure that the notches are on the same side of each log, sort of like those you'd use to make a log cabin.\\nAlternatively, flatten the entire side of each log with a hatchet.\\n1-5. Varnish the logs\\nThis will help make the wood water-tight and keep it from rotting. Use a brush to apply 3 to 5 thin coats of varnish, allowing each coat to dry to the touch before applying the next. After you've applied the last coat, wait for the varnish to dry and cure completely. This may take a few days.\\nYou don’t have to do this, but it can help make your raft last longer, especially if you plan on using it more than once.\\n2. Creating the Frame\\n2-1. Bring your logs into the water.\\nYou need to go far enough from the shore so that logs can float; about calf-deep should be fine. Not only will this make it easier to assemble the logs, but you won't have to drag the completed raft across dry land.\\nRoll the logs towards the body of water. You can also drag them by hand, or pull them with rope.\\nIf the logs are too heavy for you, ask a friend to help you bring them into the water.\\nYou don't have to bring all of the logs into the water, but have them close by so that you can easily grab them.\\n2-2. Place 2 floater logs parallel to each other, about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart.\\nIf you have not already, pull 2 of your main floater logs into the water, and place them side-by-side. Orient them horizontally so that they make an equals (=) sign.\\nMake the logs about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart.\\nYou are using your 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 10 to 12 in (25 to 30 cm) thick logs for this.\\n2-3. Set your thin, connecting logs across the 2 main logs.\\nYou should end up with a rough square or rectangle shape. Place these logs about 12 inches (30 cm) from the ends of the floater logs. Move the floater logs closer or further from each other until the ends of the connector logs stick out by about 6 inches (15 cm).\\nIf you flattened 1 side on each log, make sure that the flat sides are touching.\\nIf you cut notches into the logs, then make sure that the notches are facing each other so that they fit.\\n2-4. Tie your rope around a connecting log using a clove hitch knot.\\nChoose a connecting log to start with, then drape the end of your rope across the end, right next to the left floater log. Wrap the rope's short end around the connecting log. Cross it over the longer end of the rope to create a slant. Bring it under the connecting log, then pull it under the slanted rope. Give it a pull to tighten the knot.\\nThe short end of your rope needs to be long enough to wrap around the circumference of your connecting log 2 to 3 times.\\n2-5. Wrap the working end of the rope around the floating log to make an X.\\nTake the longer, working end of the rope. Wrap it around the floating log once, then pull it across the connecting log at an angle. Wrap it around the floating log again, then cross it over the connecting log to make an X shape.\\nPull the rope tightly so that the logs don't slide around.\\n2-6. Tie the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot.\\nWrap the rope loosely around the connecting log, making sure that you're on the other side of the main log (working away from the clove hitch knot). Pull the rope under the looped rope, then give it a sharp tug to tighten the knot.\\n2-7. Repeat the process for the bottom connecting log on the left side.\\nTake a new piece of rope and tie it to the end of the bottom connecting log using a clove hitch knot. Wrap it around the main log 2 times to make an X, then wrap it around the connecting log once. Finish off with an overhand knot.\\nDon't tie the connecting logs to the right side of the frame just yet. You will do that last.\\n3. Finishing the Raft\\n3-1. Slide your next floater log into place.\\nTake another 8 ft (2.4 m) floater log and push it under the 2 connecting logs. Roll it towards the left side of the frame.\\nMake sure that the ends of this log are aligned with the ends of the first log.\\n3-2. Wrap the rope around the main log, to each side of the connecting log.\\nGo to the top connecting log and wrap the rope around it once. Next, wrap it around the main log to 1 side of the connecting log. Bring it under the main log, then wrap it around the main log again, this time to the other side of the connecting log.\\nYou don't have to make an X with the ropes like you did for the frame, but you can if you want to.\\n3-3. Wrap the rope around the connector log, finishing with an overhand knot.\\nThis is just like what you did when doing the frame. Wrap the rope around the connecting log once, then pull the rope under the wrapped rope to create an overhand knot.\\nThis completes your wrapping pattern.\\n3-4. Tie more logs to the top connecting log until you reach the right side.\\nFollow the same process as you did before. Wrap the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot. Add the next log, then wrap or cross it 2 times around the log. Wrap it around the connecting log with an overhand knot, add another main log, and so forth.\\nYou may end up with some gaps between the logs, which is fine.\\nThe last log may end up more or less than 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the connecting log. This is okay.\\n3-5. Finish with a clove hitch knot.\\nWrap the rope around the end of the connecting log. Cross it over the wrapped rope, then wrap it under the log again. As you're coming up, pull it under the crossed rope, then pull it tightly.\\nCut off the excess rope with a hatchet or scissors.\\n3-6. Repeat the entire process for the bottom connecting log.\\nThis side will be a little tricky because you'll have to move the logs around more in order to wrap the rope around them. You may have to uncoil the rope and push it through the spaces between the logs, like threading a needle.\\nMake sure that the logs are straight as you tie them. You may have to slide them a little to the left or right so that they are not crooked.\\nTips\\nThe diameter does not have to be exactly 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), but it should be close. It's more important that all of the logs are the same thickness.\\nIf the logs taper, alternate the directions that they point in, sort of like stacking binders together.\\nIf you don't have rope, you can pin the logs together using 12 in (30 cm) long pins made from a hardwood, such as oak. Make the pins sharp at 1 end, like a stake.\\nWarnings\\nUse your raft responsibly. Taking it out onto a lake or slow-moving river is fine. Do not take it out into rapid waters or onto long ocean voyages.\\nDouble-check with your local authorities before taking your raft out to a certain body of water. Not all places will allow rafts.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\nAlways wear a life jacket when using your raft. Even though it is durable, there is a chance that it may fall apart; you want to be prepared.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building your own raft is a great way to go on an adventure, get to a better fishing area, or simply feel like Huckleberry Finn. Preparing the logs can take a while, but once you get to the lashing portion, the rest of the process will go by in a breeze. This is easy enough to do by yourself, but it can go by a lot faster if you have a friend to help you.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gathering and Preparing the Logs\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather eight 8 ft (2.4 m) logs that are about 12 inches (30 cm) thick.\", \"描述\": \"These will be the main, floating logs that make the raft's body. Great choices of wood include cottonwood, poplar, and spruce. Don't use heavy, dense woods, such as oak, or they won’t float.\\nFind your logs in a forest or buy them from a logger. If you're in a forest but can't identify trees, choose logs that feel lighter compared to others.\\nUse a handsaw to cut down longer logs until they are about 8 feet (240 cm) long. You can also use a hatchet to chop down saplings.\\nDon’t use logs that feel heavy. It means that they are waterlogged and won't float as well.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Find two 9 ft (2.7 m) logs that are about 6 inches (15 cm) thick.\", \"描述\": \"These will be the connecting logs, which you'll be placing across the body of your raft. You need the extra length so that you can secure the ropes to them.\\nUse the same type of wood that you did for the main logs.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Remove the knots and bark with a hatchet.\", \"描述\": \"While removing the bark is not absolutely necessary, removing the knots, stubs, and smaller branches is. If you don't do this, then the raft won't fit together as nicely.\\nUse a hatchet to hack off the little knots, stubs, and branches stemming off of your logs.\\nIf you are camping, consider saving the bark and knots for kindling.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cut notches into the logs if you have the time.\", \"描述\": \"This is not completely necessary, but it is highly recommended because it will help the logs fit together better. Use a hatchet to make 2 in (5.1 cm) deep notches into both ends of each log. Make sure that the notches span the width of the log and are about 1 to 1 ⁄2 feet (30 to 46 cm) from the ends.\\nMake sure that the notches are on the same side of each log, sort of like those you'd use to make a log cabin.\\nAlternatively, flatten the entire side of each log with a hatchet.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Varnish the logs\", \"描述\": \"This will help make the wood water-tight and keep it from rotting. Use a brush to apply 3 to 5 thin coats of varnish, allowing each coat to dry to the touch before applying the next. After you've applied the last coat, wait for the varnish to dry and cure completely. This may take a few days.\\nYou don’t have to do this, but it can help make your raft last longer, especially if you plan on using it more than once.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Creating the Frame\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Bring your logs into the water.\", \"描述\": \"You need to go far enough from the shore so that logs can float; about calf-deep should be fine. Not only will this make it easier to assemble the logs, but you won't have to drag the completed raft across dry land.\\nRoll the logs towards the body of water. You can also drag them by hand, or pull them with rope.\\nIf the logs are too heavy for you, ask a friend to help you bring them into the water.\\nYou don't have to bring all of the logs into the water, but have them close by so that you can easily grab them.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Place 2 floater logs parallel to each other, about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart.\", \"描述\": \"If you have not already, pull 2 of your main floater logs into the water, and place them side-by-side. Orient them horizontally so that they make an equals (=) sign.\\nMake the logs about 8 feet (2.4 m) apart.\\nYou are using your 8 ft (2.4 m) long, 10 to 12 in (25 to 30 cm) thick logs for this.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Set your thin, connecting logs across the 2 main logs.\", \"描述\": \"You should end up with a rough square or rectangle shape. Place these logs about 12 inches (30 cm) from the ends of the floater logs. Move the floater logs closer or further from each other until the ends of the connector logs stick out by about 6 inches (15 cm).\\nIf you flattened 1 side on each log, make sure that the flat sides are touching.\\nIf you cut notches into the logs, then make sure that the notches are facing each other so that they fit.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie your rope around a connecting log using a clove hitch knot.\", \"描述\": \"Choose a connecting log to start with, then drape the end of your rope across the end, right next to the left floater log. Wrap the rope's short end around the connecting log. Cross it over the longer end of the rope to create a slant. Bring it under the connecting log, then pull it under the slanted rope. Give it a pull to tighten the knot.\\nThe short end of your rope needs to be long enough to wrap around the circumference of your connecting log 2 to 3 times.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Wrap the working end of the rope around the floating log to make an X.\", \"描述\": \"Take the longer, working end of the rope. Wrap it around the floating log once, then pull it across the connecting log at an angle. Wrap it around the floating log again, then cross it over the connecting log to make an X shape.\\nPull the rope tightly so that the logs don't slide around.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Tie the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the rope loosely around the connecting log, making sure that you're on the other side of the main log (working away from the clove hitch knot). Pull the rope under the looped rope, then give it a sharp tug to tighten the knot.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Repeat the process for the bottom connecting log on the left side.\", \"描述\": \"Take a new piece of rope and tie it to the end of the bottom connecting log using a clove hitch knot. Wrap it around the main log 2 times to make an X, then wrap it around the connecting log once. Finish off with an overhand knot.\\nDon't tie the connecting logs to the right side of the frame just yet. You will do that last.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Raft\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Slide your next floater log into place.\", \"描述\": \"Take another 8 ft (2.4 m) floater log and push it under the 2 connecting logs. Roll it towards the left side of the frame.\\nMake sure that the ends of this log are aligned with the ends of the first log.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Wrap the rope around the main log, to each side of the connecting log.\", \"描述\": \"Go to the top connecting log and wrap the rope around it once. Next, wrap it around the main log to 1 side of the connecting log. Bring it under the main log, then wrap it around the main log again, this time to the other side of the connecting log.\\nYou don't have to make an X with the ropes like you did for the frame, but you can if you want to.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Wrap the rope around the connector log, finishing with an overhand knot.\", \"描述\": \"This is just like what you did when doing the frame. Wrap the rope around the connecting log once, then pull the rope under the wrapped rope to create an overhand knot.\\nThis completes your wrapping pattern.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Tie more logs to the top connecting log until you reach the right side.\", \"描述\": \"Follow the same process as you did before. Wrap the rope around the connecting log with an overhand knot. Add the next log, then wrap or cross it 2 times around the log. Wrap it around the connecting log with an overhand knot, add another main log, and so forth.\\nYou may end up with some gaps between the logs, which is fine.\\nThe last log may end up more or less than 6 inches (15 cm) from the end of the connecting log. This is okay.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Finish with a clove hitch knot.\", \"描述\": \"Wrap the rope around the end of the connecting log. Cross it over the wrapped rope, then wrap it under the log again. As you're coming up, pull it under the crossed rope, then pull it tightly.\\nCut off the excess rope with a hatchet or scissors.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Repeat the entire process for the bottom connecting log.\", \"描述\": \"This side will be a little tricky because you'll have to move the logs around more in order to wrap the rope around them. You may have to uncoil the rope and push it through the spaces between the logs, like threading a needle.\\nMake sure that the logs are straight as you tie them. You may have to slide them a little to the left or right so that they are not crooked.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"The diameter does not have to be exactly 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), but it should be close. It's more important that all of the logs are the same thickness.\\n\", \"If the logs taper, alternate the directions that they point in, sort of like stacking binders together.\\n\", \"If you don't have rope, you can pin the logs together using 12 in (30 cm) long pins made from a hardwood, such as oak. Make the pins sharp at 1 end, like a stake.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Use your raft responsibly. Taking it out onto a lake or slow-moving river is fine. Do not take it out into rapid waters or onto long ocean voyages.\\n\", \"Double-check with your local authorities before taking your raft out to a certain body of water. Not all places will allow rafts.[18]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\", \"Always wear a life jacket when using your raft. Even though it is durable, there is a chance that it may fall apart; you want to be prepared.[19]\\nX\\nResearch source\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,416
How to Build a Long Lasting Relationship
1. Communication 1-1. Practice active listening. This means preparing to listen to hear the message of your partner and not to prepare your defense. Find a time and place where you can be without distractions and focus only on what your partner is saying. Try to set aside your negative perceptions about their actions or motives so you can focus on the conversation in real time. Orient towards your partner. Make eye contact. Nod your head when you agree and show you are attentive. After they finish speaking, paraphrase what was said like “What I heard you say was that…” and ask any questions to clarify whether you got the right message “Am I right in thinking you feel like…?” Be aware of the nonverbal signs as well as what is said out loud. Does the message your partner is sharing with you line up with the nonverbal cues? Also, look for signs of tension or frustration. Balled fists, crossed arms, or frowns may demonstrate that the other person needs a break or is too upset to resolve any issues right now. Though it may seem obvious, don't be glancing at your phone, scrolling through social media, or messaging people. This shows that you are fully focused and paying attention to the person in front of you. 1-2. Use “I” statements. Communication is not about blame, it is about responsibility. “I” statements start with how you are feeling about the behavior or action of your partner. It means you take ownership of your feelings and also suggest a way to improve the behavior. The focus is not to tell your partner the action is bad, just to share your own experience of it. "You" statements frequently blame the other person. Avoid making these kinds of statements. They may sound like "You are always making big purchases without asking me first!" An example of an “I” statement may be “I feel confused when you make big purchases without me because I thought we agreed to go together. From now on, I would like to be included in these purchases.” 1-3. Use a soft, warm tone when speaking. Your relationship should be based on mutual respect and love, not fear. A soft voice reflects the love, compassion and understanding that is missing from yelling. Meet your partner’s eyes and speak from a place of love and understanding. Disagreements don’t require anger and yelling to resolve. If affectionate names are commonly used in your relationship, you can use such names to show that you still care for your partner even during a disagreement. Saying things like "What do you think, dear?" or "I'm sorry I disappointed you, baby. How can I make things right?" may help to ease the tension. Basic as it seems, also make sure that you maintain eye contact. 1-4. Be respectful to your partner always. Save harsh words, even during arguments. You can’t take back what’s been said. When you say something hurtful to your partner you send the message that a disagreement is equivalent to a war. You are on the same side. Remember that. To prevent saying nasty things and getting caught up in anger, many couples use a “24 hour” rule. In this scenario, if things get too heated, they table the discussion for 24 hours so both parties calm down and are able to talk. It is pretty rare to find a discussion that can’t wait for a cooling down period if need be. 2. Conflict Resolution 2-1. Discuss issues upfront instead of letting them grow in size. It is a relationship myth that a solid relationship does not require work. Be prepared to put the work in. You can accomplish this by addressing any problems with your partner before they rear to their ugly heads. For example, you notice your partner withdrawing more money out of a shared account than usual. Instead of building a case over time, you might address the issue right off by saying "I noticed you have been needing more money lately. Do we need to adjust our budget to account for this?" You will never be perfect, nor can you expect this from a partner. There will always be issues that come up and you can either learn to treat them as you would any other obstacle or you can hide them until they balloon into a huge problem. Make a commitment to hold a weekly check-in in which either of you can bring up any issues you have on your chest. Communicating problems with the idea of tackling them as soon as they come up helps you establish a strong foundation. Make sure that you try to follow through with whatever you two say and decide over the course of your conversation. Plans are only useful if they're carried out! 2-2. Be willing to compromise. Pick your battles wisely. Not every issue needs to turn into a battle. There will be some that need to be talked out, others that go unsaid and finally some that just end up not being important compared to what you gain from the relationship. Compromising may include writing out a pros and cons list to points of disagreement and talking through the list objectively. Talking aloud may clearly point out which choice is mutually beneficial. It also means finding a way that both of you can have your needs met without jeopardizing the needs of the other. Another way you can compromise is doing things one person's way one time and then favoring the other person's opinion the next time. For example, you may watch one person's favorite movie one night and the other person's top pick the next night. Before you find yourself waging war against your partner about a small issue, assess how important the matter truly is to the happiness and growth of your relationship. If it’s truly not a big deal, move on. 2-3. Work through problems as a team. Relationships are about the “we” and not the “I” or “you”. Focus on honest communication to work through problems together with room for each of you to give and take. Learn from one another instead of working against one another. For example, if you need a sum of money to pay for a big purchase, you can sit down and find ways for both of you to contribute. Each of you can put money into savings for a span of time, or cut back on non-essential expenses. Using terms like "we" as in "We will get through this" or "us" as in "Let us figure out a solution together" help foster a teamwork approach. Every relationship comes with ups and downs. When you encounter an issue, go through it logically and objectively and make a decision based on the mutual well-being of both partners. 2-4. Make your values and needs known to your partner. Be sure to clearly define what you need from a partner and what you intend to give to your partner. Follow through on your obligations to your partner and speak up when they aren't doing the same in a constructive manner. It is a myth that you do not need to tell your partner what you value and need. You are mistaken to think that simply because your partner loves you, they should know what you need. Mind reading is impossible and the expectation of it merely hinders your growth. Communicate your desires simply by saying something to the effect of “Charity is really important to me. What can we do to honor that moving forward?” 2-5. Get on the same page about finances. This is one area that can be very dangerous if you ignore it until it becomes a bigger issue. Make sure you share financial values early on in the relationship. If you want to save for the future while your partner lives for the moment, this may not end up lasting long term. Sit down and discuss where each of you stand financially. Create a budget if you live under the same roof. Talk to a financial counselor if you have trouble seeing eye-to-eye. 3. Healthy Habits 3-1. Date each other no matter how long you’ve been together. This includes giving your partner the same level of respect and attention you did from the start. Many relationships end as one partner just stops respecting the value or feelings of the partner and fall into old habits they never would have done early on. For example, texting an old flame after you are married shouldn’t happen. If you wouldn’t expect a new date to be OK with that, why should your spouse ignore it simply because you are married? Treat your partner with the utmost respect. Strive to make them smile. Make an effort to schedule quality time shared between the two of you. 3-2. Continue to demonstrate honesty and build trust. Never lose sight of how important trust is to keep your relationship healthy. When one or the other partner is not trustworthy, doubt creeps into the relationship. You can build or repair loss trust by: Being there for your partner, both physically and emotionally Being consistent in your actions Showing up when you say you will Keeping confidences Respecting your partner’s personal boundaries Doing what you say you will do 3-3. Have mutual and separate interests. You cannot expect another person to complete you or to be everything that you are. It is healthy to share interests and to also maintain some activities you do apart. When you enter into a partnership you become a team but each part of the team will gain something from also taking time to be an individual. A relationship should allow you to be your core self, while giving you someone to love and cherish. It will not be good for you or your partner if one of you become codependent and requires the other to take an interest in anything. 3-4. Support one another’s passions and dreams. Support these dreams and also recognize you cannot make all of them come true. You are there to love and encourage their dreams, not to take responsibility for achieving them. While the two of you should have separate dreams, it can also be unifying to have shared goals that you work towards as a team. Have a talk with your partner and brainstorm some dreams you’d like to accomplish together. It can be brought simply by stating "I think it'd be great if we set some shared goals. What are some things we can work towards together?"
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Communication\\n1-1. Practice active listening.\\nThis means preparing to listen to hear the message of your partner and not to prepare your defense. Find a time and place where you can be without distractions and focus only on what your partner is saying. Try to set aside your negative perceptions about their actions or motives so you can focus on the conversation in real time.\\nOrient towards your partner. Make eye contact. Nod your head when you agree and show you are attentive. After they finish speaking, paraphrase what was said like “What I heard you say was that…” and ask any questions to clarify whether you got the right message “Am I right in thinking you feel like…?”\\nBe aware of the nonverbal signs as well as what is said out loud. Does the message your partner is sharing with you line up with the nonverbal cues? Also, look for signs of tension or frustration. Balled fists, crossed arms, or frowns may demonstrate that the other person needs a break or is too upset to resolve any issues right now.\\nThough it may seem obvious, don't be glancing at your phone, scrolling through social media, or messaging people. This shows that you are fully focused and paying attention to the person in front of you.\\n1-2. Use “I” statements.\\nCommunication is not about blame, it is about responsibility. “I” statements start with how you are feeling about the behavior or action of your partner. It means you take ownership of your feelings and also suggest a way to improve the behavior. The focus is not to tell your partner the action is bad, just to share your own experience of it.\\n\\\"You\\\" statements frequently blame the other person. Avoid making these kinds of statements. They may sound like \\\"You are always making big purchases without asking me first!\\\"\\nAn example of an “I” statement may be “I feel confused when you make big purchases without me because I thought we agreed to go together. From now on, I would like to be included in these purchases.”\\n1-3. Use a soft, warm tone when speaking.\\nYour relationship should be based on mutual respect and love, not fear. A soft voice reflects the love, compassion and understanding that is missing from yelling. Meet your partner’s eyes and speak from a place of love and understanding. Disagreements don’t require anger and yelling to resolve.\\nIf affectionate names are commonly used in your relationship, you can use such names to show that you still care for your partner even during a disagreement. Saying things like \\\"What do you think, dear?\\\" or \\\"I'm sorry I disappointed you, baby. How can I make things right?\\\" may help to ease the tension.\\nBasic as it seems, also make sure that you maintain eye contact.\\n1-4. Be respectful to your partner always.\\nSave harsh words, even during arguments. You can’t take back what’s been said. When you say something hurtful to your partner you send the message that a disagreement is equivalent to a war. You are on the same side. Remember that. \\nTo prevent saying nasty things and getting caught up in anger, many couples use a “24 hour” rule. In this scenario, if things get too heated, they table the discussion for 24 hours so both parties calm down and are able to talk. It is pretty rare to find a discussion that can’t wait for a cooling down period if need be.\\n2. Conflict Resolution\\n2-1. Discuss issues upfront instead of letting them grow in size.\\nIt is a relationship myth that a solid relationship does not require work. Be prepared to put the work in. You can accomplish this by addressing any problems with your partner before they rear to their ugly heads.\\nFor example, you notice your partner withdrawing more money out of a shared account than usual. Instead of building a case over time, you might address the issue right off by saying \\\"I noticed you have been needing more money lately. Do we need to adjust our budget to account for this?\\\"\\nYou will never be perfect, nor can you expect this from a partner. There will always be issues that come up and you can either learn to treat them as you would any other obstacle or you can hide them until they balloon into a huge problem.\\nMake a commitment to hold a weekly check-in in which either of you can bring up any issues you have on your chest. Communicating problems with the idea of tackling them as soon as they come up helps you establish a strong foundation.\\nMake sure that you try to follow through with whatever you two say and decide over the course of your conversation. Plans are only useful if they're carried out!\\n2-2. Be willing to compromise.\\nPick your battles wisely. Not every issue needs to turn into a battle. There will be some that need to be talked out, others that go unsaid and finally some that just end up not being important compared to what you gain from the relationship.\\nCompromising may include writing out a pros and cons list to points of disagreement and talking through the list objectively. Talking aloud may clearly point out which choice is mutually beneficial. It also means finding a way that both of you can have your needs met without jeopardizing the needs of the other.\\nAnother way you can compromise is doing things one person's way one time and then favoring the other person's opinion the next time. For example, you may watch one person's favorite movie one night and the other person's top pick the next night.\\nBefore you find yourself waging war against your partner about a small issue, assess how important the matter truly is to the happiness and growth of your relationship. If it’s truly not a big deal, move on.\\n2-3. Work through problems as a team.\\nRelationships are about the “we” and not the “I” or “you”. Focus on honest communication to work through problems together with room for each of you to give and take. Learn from one another instead of working against one another.\\nFor example, if you need a sum of money to pay for a big purchase, you can sit down and find ways for both of you to contribute. Each of you can put money into savings for a span of time, or cut back on non-essential expenses.\\nUsing terms like \\\"we\\\" as in \\\"We will get through this\\\" or \\\"us\\\" as in \\\"Let us figure out a solution together\\\" help foster a teamwork approach.\\nEvery relationship comes with ups and downs. When you encounter an issue, go through it logically and objectively and make a decision based on the mutual well-being of both partners.\\n2-4. Make your values and needs known to your partner.\\nBe sure to clearly define what you need from a partner and what you intend to give to your partner. Follow through on your obligations to your partner and speak up when they aren't doing the same in a constructive manner. \\nIt is a myth that you do not need to tell your partner what you value and need. You are mistaken to think that simply because your partner loves you, they should know what you need. Mind reading is impossible and the expectation of it merely hinders your growth.\\nCommunicate your desires simply by saying something to the effect of “Charity is really important to me. What can we do to honor that moving forward?”\\n2-5. Get on the same page about finances.\\nThis is one area that can be very dangerous if you ignore it until it becomes a bigger issue. Make sure you share financial values early on in the relationship. If you want to save for the future while your partner lives for the moment, this may not end up lasting long term.\\nSit down and discuss where each of you stand financially. Create a budget if you live under the same roof. Talk to a financial counselor if you have trouble seeing eye-to-eye.\\n3. Healthy Habits\\n3-1. Date each other no matter how long you’ve been together.\\nThis includes giving your partner the same level of respect and attention you did from the start. Many relationships end as one partner just stops respecting the value or feelings of the partner and fall into old habits they never would have done early on.\\nFor example, texting an old flame after you are married shouldn’t happen. If you wouldn’t expect a new date to be OK with that, why should your spouse ignore it simply because you are married?\\nTreat your partner with the utmost respect. Strive to make them smile. Make an effort to schedule quality time shared between the two of you.\\n3-2. Continue to demonstrate honesty and build trust.\\nNever lose sight of how important trust is to keep your relationship healthy. When one or the other partner is not trustworthy, doubt creeps into the relationship. You can build or repair loss trust by:\\nBeing there for your partner, both physically and emotionally\\nBeing consistent in your actions\\nShowing up when you say you will\\nKeeping confidences\\nRespecting your partner’s personal boundaries\\nDoing what you say you will do\\n3-3. Have mutual and separate interests.\\nYou cannot expect another person to complete you or to be everything that you are. It is healthy to share interests and to also maintain some activities you do apart. When you enter into a partnership you become a team but each part of the team will gain something from also taking time to be an individual.\\nA relationship should allow you to be your core self, while giving you someone to love and cherish. It will not be good for you or your partner if one of you become codependent and requires the other to take an interest in anything.\\n3-4. Support one another’s passions and dreams.\\nSupport these dreams and also recognize you cannot make all of them come true. You are there to love and encourage their dreams, not to take responsibility for achieving them.\\nWhile the two of you should have separate dreams, it can also be unifying to have shared goals that you work towards as a team. Have a talk with your partner and brainstorm some dreams you’d like to accomplish together. It can be brought simply by stating \\\"I think it'd be great if we set some shared goals. What are some things we can work towards together?\\\"\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Everyone wants a butterflies-in-your-stomach still-in-love-50-years-later kind of love. But, based on the research of failed relationships and marriages, not many are willing to put in the work to accomplish this kind of love. Relationships are hard work. Even the most successful couples admit that keeping their love alive isn’t easy. However, if you’re willing to put in the effort, you can build a long-lasting relationship.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Communication\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Practice active listening.\", \"描述\": \"This means preparing to listen to hear the message of your partner and not to prepare your defense. Find a time and place where you can be without distractions and focus only on what your partner is saying. Try to set aside your negative perceptions about their actions or motives so you can focus on the conversation in real time.\\nOrient towards your partner. Make eye contact. Nod your head when you agree and show you are attentive. After they finish speaking, paraphrase what was said like “What I heard you say was that…” and ask any questions to clarify whether you got the right message “Am I right in thinking you feel like…?”\\nBe aware of the nonverbal signs as well as what is said out loud. Does the message your partner is sharing with you line up with the nonverbal cues? Also, look for signs of tension or frustration. Balled fists, crossed arms, or frowns may demonstrate that the other person needs a break or is too upset to resolve any issues right now.\\nThough it may seem obvious, don't be glancing at your phone, scrolling through social media, or messaging people. This shows that you are fully focused and paying attention to the person in front of you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Use “I” statements.\", \"描述\": \"Communication is not about blame, it is about responsibility. “I” statements start with how you are feeling about the behavior or action of your partner. It means you take ownership of your feelings and also suggest a way to improve the behavior. The focus is not to tell your partner the action is bad, just to share your own experience of it.\\n\\\"You\\\" statements frequently blame the other person. Avoid making these kinds of statements. They may sound like \\\"You are always making big purchases without asking me first!\\\"\\nAn example of an “I” statement may be “I feel confused when you make big purchases without me because I thought we agreed to go together. From now on, I would like to be included in these purchases.”\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a soft, warm tone when speaking.\", \"描述\": \"Your relationship should be based on mutual respect and love, not fear. A soft voice reflects the love, compassion and understanding that is missing from yelling. Meet your partner’s eyes and speak from a place of love and understanding. Disagreements don’t require anger and yelling to resolve.\\nIf affectionate names are commonly used in your relationship, you can use such names to show that you still care for your partner even during a disagreement. Saying things like \\\"What do you think, dear?\\\" or \\\"I'm sorry I disappointed you, baby. How can I make things right?\\\" may help to ease the tension.\\nBasic as it seems, also make sure that you maintain eye contact.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Be respectful to your partner always.\", \"描述\": \"Save harsh words, even during arguments. You can’t take back what’s been said. When you say something hurtful to your partner you send the message that a disagreement is equivalent to a war. You are on the same side. Remember that. \\nTo prevent saying nasty things and getting caught up in anger, many couples use a “24 hour” rule. In this scenario, if things get too heated, they table the discussion for 24 hours so both parties calm down and are able to talk. It is pretty rare to find a discussion that can’t wait for a cooling down period if need be.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Conflict Resolution\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Discuss issues upfront instead of letting them grow in size.\", \"描述\": \"It is a relationship myth that a solid relationship does not require work. Be prepared to put the work in. You can accomplish this by addressing any problems with your partner before they rear to their ugly heads.\\nFor example, you notice your partner withdrawing more money out of a shared account than usual. Instead of building a case over time, you might address the issue right off by saying \\\"I noticed you have been needing more money lately. Do we need to adjust our budget to account for this?\\\"\\nYou will never be perfect, nor can you expect this from a partner. There will always be issues that come up and you can either learn to treat them as you would any other obstacle or you can hide them until they balloon into a huge problem.\\nMake a commitment to hold a weekly check-in in which either of you can bring up any issues you have on your chest. Communicating problems with the idea of tackling them as soon as they come up helps you establish a strong foundation.\\nMake sure that you try to follow through with whatever you two say and decide over the course of your conversation. Plans are only useful if they're carried out!\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Be willing to compromise.\", \"描述\": \"Pick your battles wisely. Not every issue needs to turn into a battle. There will be some that need to be talked out, others that go unsaid and finally some that just end up not being important compared to what you gain from the relationship.\\nCompromising may include writing out a pros and cons list to points of disagreement and talking through the list objectively. Talking aloud may clearly point out which choice is mutually beneficial. It also means finding a way that both of you can have your needs met without jeopardizing the needs of the other.\\nAnother way you can compromise is doing things one person's way one time and then favoring the other person's opinion the next time. For example, you may watch one person's favorite movie one night and the other person's top pick the next night.\\nBefore you find yourself waging war against your partner about a small issue, assess how important the matter truly is to the happiness and growth of your relationship. If it’s truly not a big deal, move on.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Work through problems as a team.\", \"描述\": \"Relationships are about the “we” and not the “I” or “you”. Focus on honest communication to work through problems together with room for each of you to give and take. Learn from one another instead of working against one another.\\nFor example, if you need a sum of money to pay for a big purchase, you can sit down and find ways for both of you to contribute. Each of you can put money into savings for a span of time, or cut back on non-essential expenses.\\nUsing terms like \\\"we\\\" as in \\\"We will get through this\\\" or \\\"us\\\" as in \\\"Let us figure out a solution together\\\" help foster a teamwork approach.\\nEvery relationship comes with ups and downs. When you encounter an issue, go through it logically and objectively and make a decision based on the mutual well-being of both partners.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Make your values and needs known to your partner.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure to clearly define what you need from a partner and what you intend to give to your partner. Follow through on your obligations to your partner and speak up when they aren't doing the same in a constructive manner. \\nIt is a myth that you do not need to tell your partner what you value and need. You are mistaken to think that simply because your partner loves you, they should know what you need. Mind reading is impossible and the expectation of it merely hinders your growth.\\nCommunicate your desires simply by saying something to the effect of “Charity is really important to me. What can we do to honor that moving forward?”\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Get on the same page about finances.\", \"描述\": \"This is one area that can be very dangerous if you ignore it until it becomes a bigger issue. Make sure you share financial values early on in the relationship. If you want to save for the future while your partner lives for the moment, this may not end up lasting long term.\\nSit down and discuss where each of you stand financially. Create a budget if you live under the same roof. Talk to a financial counselor if you have trouble seeing eye-to-eye.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Healthy Habits\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Date each other no matter how long you’ve been together.\", \"描述\": \"This includes giving your partner the same level of respect and attention you did from the start. Many relationships end as one partner just stops respecting the value or feelings of the partner and fall into old habits they never would have done early on.\\nFor example, texting an old flame after you are married shouldn’t happen. If you wouldn’t expect a new date to be OK with that, why should your spouse ignore it simply because you are married?\\nTreat your partner with the utmost respect. Strive to make them smile. Make an effort to schedule quality time shared between the two of you.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Continue to demonstrate honesty and build trust.\", \"描述\": \"Never lose sight of how important trust is to keep your relationship healthy. When one or the other partner is not trustworthy, doubt creeps into the relationship. You can build or repair loss trust by:\\nBeing there for your partner, both physically and emotionally\\nBeing consistent in your actions\\nShowing up when you say you will\\nKeeping confidences\\nRespecting your partner’s personal boundaries\\nDoing what you say you will do\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Have mutual and separate interests.\", \"描述\": \"You cannot expect another person to complete you or to be everything that you are. It is healthy to share interests and to also maintain some activities you do apart. When you enter into a partnership you become a team but each part of the team will gain something from also taking time to be an individual.\\nA relationship should allow you to be your core self, while giving you someone to love and cherish. It will not be good for you or your partner if one of you become codependent and requires the other to take an interest in anything.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Support one another’s passions and dreams.\", \"描述\": \"Support these dreams and also recognize you cannot make all of them come true. You are there to love and encourage their dreams, not to take responsibility for achieving them.\\nWhile the two of you should have separate dreams, it can also be unifying to have shared goals that you work towards as a team. Have a talk with your partner and brainstorm some dreams you’d like to accomplish together. It can be brought simply by stating \\\"I think it'd be great if we set some shared goals. What are some things we can work towards together?\\\"\"}]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,417
How to Build a Longboard
1. Picking Your Parts 1-1. Gather your materials for the deck. You will need: Plywood or hardwood to build your deck; 2-3 Wood glue or another strong adhesive Rough and fine-grained sandpaper 8 small screws to attach the trucks to the deck—four for each truck. The screws should be long enough to fasten the trucks securely to the board, but not long enough that they get in the way. Match the width to the size of the holes in your trucks. Screws or a staple-gun to help seal the board when you shape its curve. The amount of screws/staples will vary greatly depending on the size of your board and the quality of your pressing mechanism—screws may not be necessary if you use a board press, but they will make your deck much tighter if you are molding it with basic weights or clamps. A drill Weights A jig saw to cut out the deck Polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin, hardener, and cloth A large piece of paper and a pencil for drawing out your board design. Grip tape (to make it easier for your feet to stick to the top of the board) 1-2. Choose your wood. For a cheap board, use 2-3 1/4-inch-thick plywood sheets or 4-6 1/8-inch sheets. Alternately, use 7-9 plies, each about one mm thick. You will use screws or wood glue to fuse these pieces of wood together into a longboard deck. The amount of sheets that you use depends upon how much flex you want: the more layers of wood, the more rigid your board will be. You can also buy a pre-pressed deck and build your longboard out from there. If you have the time or money to do so, try to find high-quality wood. Bamboo, Birch, White Ash, and Maple are popular choices, and each offers a different ride. Bamboo will be the strongest of the three. Each piece of wood should be 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide by 40 inches long, or longer if you want a longer board. You should have a basic idea of the shape of board you want before you start to build one. Remember, however, that you can always cut a piece of wood down to size. Do not go to the lumberyard at a hardware or home-and-garden store: this wood is usually dry, and thus better for construction than riding. An actual lumberyard would work best. Realistically, you can use almost any hardwood—even salvaged pieces of flooring. 1-3. Choose your adhesive. Find a good, flexible wood glue, or epoxy and resin. You can find these products at most construction or hardware stores. The adhesive functions to keep the layers of plywood together, so if you have cheap wood glue, you will have a cheap board. 1-4. Choose your trucks. Trucks are the metal bits that attach the wheels to the board and allow the longboard to turn when you lean. The right trucks are important to a longboard's feel. You will most likely want Reverse Kingpin Trucks, unless the board has a tail and you are planning to ollie it. Standard Kingpin provides better pop, while Reverse get better stability and turn response. Some longboard trucks have Double Kingpins, which allow for a tighter carve, but sacrifice some stability. 1-5. Choose the wheels. The harder the wheel, the more it will slide. If you want to go sideways, get one with a higher (harder) durometer. A good slide wheel will usually be above 80a durometer. Softer wheels will be more grippy, and better for sticking tight turns. 1-6. Choose your bearings. Bearings fit inside the wheels and enable them to turn smoothly. These range quite a bit in price, depending on the quality you are looking for. Ceramic bearings are nice, but they usually cost well over a hundred dollars. A suitable set of steel bearings can cost as little as $20. For instance, check out Bones Reds or Seismic Tektons for a good entry-level bearing. 2. Sealing and Shaping the Deck 2-1. Cut your plywood (or hardwood) to size. Cut the wood into strips that are about 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 40 inches long—slightly longer than you want your board to be. Leave longer strips for a longer board, or shorter strips for a shorter board. Don't worry about shaping the board: you just need rectangular strips of plywood for now. You will carve out the shape of your board once you press the pieces together into a solid deck. 2-2. Draw out the shape of your board. On paper, draw a straight line that is as long as you want your board to be. This line will be the center of your board. Now draw the shape of your board as it will flare from this line. If you want your board to be symmetrical, only draw one half of the deck, then use the same outline to carve out both sides. Consider how you want to use your longboard: longer boards (40-60+ inches) tend to be better for building speed on long-distance straightaways; shorter boards are more portable and may be better for quick, sharp turns; cruising boards tend to be wider, and carving boards tend to be more streamlined. If this is your first board, keep things simple. Draw a slight curve at the front and try to keep it nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose. 2-3. Use a pencil to trace the shape of your board onto the top piece wood. You will press the wood together with pressure and adhesive, let the pressed wood dry, and then carve this shape out. Trace carefully, and make sure to draw the deck exactly as you want it. Look out for imperfections in the wood, and make sure that each half of the board is symmetrical—unless you'd like it otherwise. 2-4. Drill holes around the outside of the board outline. You will drill screws through these holes to help clamp the wood together, so try to make the holes slightly smaller than your screws. Again, the amount of screws (and, thus, holes) will vary greatly depending on the size of your board, so there is no set number that you must use. Try to space the screw points evenly around the board shape, and consider which points on your design might require extra support to seal—parts of the board that flare/jut out, for instance, or that dip sharply in toward the center. Keep your pieces of plywood or hardwood evenly stacked, and hold them in place so that they do not shift. Drill holes straight through the wood, and make sure not to drill through the area that will become your deck. Drill the holes about one inch from the outline of the board. Consider waiting to drill the holes until the wood is clamped. Drill the screws directly into the wood, and be careful not to drill into the deck shape. 2-5. Stick the pieces of wood together. Mix your adhesive, then use a paintbrush to spread a thick layer of adhesive on the inner-facing side of each piece of wood. Then, carefully put them back together. Make sure that your pre-drilled holes are still on top. Make sure to protect the floor. The pressure will push glue out of the pre-drilled holes and the edges of the wood, and you don't want to spill glue on the floor. 2-6. Shape the board. Stack your plywood pieces so that a clean, smooth side of one piece (which will eventually become the top surface of the longboard) is on the bottom. Arrange the wood so that the ends of the board are each resting on something, and the middle is hanging free. 2-7. Place weights onto the board. Lay weights onto the stack of wood, right around the widest part of the board. You want your eventual board to bend slightly upwards in the middle, so that when you stand on it, it flattens out. This procedure is more of an art than anything else, so put weight on it until you like the result. Make a light curve for best results. Leave the board beneath the weights until the curve is well set into the wood. Consider using strong clamps instead of weights. Clamp the center of the board so that it sinks below the front and back tips of the deck. 2-8. Put a screw through a hole near the nose of your board. Then put the weights back on top or re-clamp the deck. if you are happy with the curve, put screws in all around the board. Keep the part between the lines free of adhesive. 2-9. Check the curve again to make sure you are satisfied. When you are sure, wait for the adhesive to set, following the directions on the bottle. 2-10. Take out the screws. 2-11. Consider using a board press to mold your deck. The press is much more expensive than simple adhesive, but it may be a wise investment if you plan to make multiple boards. The two main types of board press are the coffin press and the vacuum press. Coffin press: A coffin press is two 2x4s running along the edges of a sheet of plywood, along with another 2x4 running along the middle of another sheet of plywood. The sheets of plywood are then connected via screws and nuts with the 2x4s facing inward. The board (all of your layers glued together) is placed on the two 2x4s. Then place the top of the coffin press on top of the board, screw it down to the amount of concave you want, wait about 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out your shape, and you've got a deck! Vacuum press: When you put the plies in, they are already cut into shape and glued. The vacuum press sucks all the air out while pressing the plies into a mold that you can use. Wait 24 hours with your plies in the press, and you have a deck. You can buy a vacuum press online. 3. Finishing the Deck 3-1. Carve the shape into the board. Grab one of your pieces of plywood, and find the smoothest, best-looking side. This is going to be the bottom of the board. Measure from the sides to find the exact center of the board. Draw a line lengthwise down the center of the board—from the front to the back. Trace along the edges of your template. Hold your template in place with your hand, a clamp, or a weight. Flip the board over and repeat for the other side. Your design is now on your board. Take your stencil off of the plywood and make sure that you like the shape. 3-2. Sand everything down. Make sure that the board is smooth and free of scratches. 3-3. Cover the board with a layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin. Either coating will protect your paint from scratches. Look around at hardware stores and skate shops to compare prices and see what's available in your area. If you are using fiberglass resin: First, mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener at the correct proportion. Then lay out the fiberglass cloth on the painted side; using a paintbrush, spread the resin evenly across the board. Be sure to work quickly and effectively, because the fiberglass begins to harden in about 15 minutes. After it is applied, let it cure for about 3-4 hours. If you are using polyurethane varnish: Spread the varnish evenly across the board with a paintbrush. Make sure that the coat is smooth. When you're done, let the varnish dry for 3-4 hours before you proceed with your board-building. 4. Decorating the Board 4-1. Sand the board down one final time using a very fine-grained sandpaper. Now, you can add whatever sort of design you like, with paint or waterproof markers. For a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit. 4-2. Consider painting your board. You can leave your deck plain with its natural wood, but painting or otherwise decorating the board is a great way to make it unique. Use electrical tape or a stencil to mark out your design. Paint the bottom of your deck. Use spray paint. Cut out a stencil from paper or cardboard, choose your colors, and spray-paint the design onto the smooth bottom of your board. Allow the paint time to dry before you touch or ride the board. Use regular acrylic paint. Sketch out a design and paint between the lines; paint whatever you like. Allow 20-60 minutes for the paint to dry after you decorate the board. Use wood stain to paint. To create a pattern with a few different shades, use three coats for the dark parts and one coat for the lighter parts. After the stain dries, remove the tape. Use permanent markers. Your design may be less colorful and more fragile than if you used paint, but you may find that markers give you greater control when you are drawing on your board. 4-3. Add a final layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin. This will seal your design onto the bottom of the board. The varnish or resin should be clear, so your design should still be visible through the protective coating. 4-4. Cover the top of the board with grip tape. Buy a chunk of bulk grip tape that will cover your whole board. The tape will help your feet stick to the board at high speeds. Apply it carefully to the deck, just like a large sticker. Remove excess tape with a razor blade or box cutter. The design is up to you: Cover the entire surface with grip tape. This is the simplest method, and it will look like a standard longboard top. Cut up pieces and create designs out of grip tape. Make sure that you cover enough of the board surface that your feet can easily grip. In general, your pattern should contain more grip tape than empty wood space. Paint your board and apply clear grip tape over the top to display your design. The clear grip tape may be somewhat opaque, but the colors and general idea of your design should shine through. 4-5. Consider using board wax instead of grip tape for barefoot riding. Use surfboard wax on the surface of your longboard if you plan to ride it barefoot most of the time. Bear in mind that you will need reapply wax, as it wears off with use. 5. Attaching Trucks, Wheels, and Bearings 5-1. Place the bearings inside the wheels. To do this, take a bearing, and push it down into each wheel. You can't push it too far; there will be a little barrier for it to sit against. Put a bearing inside each of the four wheels. 5-2. Attach the wheels to the trucks. Just slide the wheel/bearing assembly onto the truck, with the concave portion of your wheels (if they are concave) facing outwards. Secure these onto the trucks with the nuts provided. The nuts should be tight enough that they allow for easy and free spinning of the wheels, but not so tight that they come off while skating. 5-3. Drill the holes for the trucks. Be sure that they are straight, or else the trucks will not align correctly. 5-4. Attach the trucks and wheels to the deck. You will need the truck spacers and the trucks to do this. Place the spacer between the truck and the deck. When orientating your trucks, make sure that the tightening bolt faces towards the nose of the board in the front, and that the loosening bolt faces towards the tail of the board in the back. Arranging them to face opposite directions ensures that you can turn in the right direction when you lean. Tighten the truck and spacers on to the deck with 4 bolts to each assembly. 5-5. Test out your new board. When you have attached your bearings, wheels, and trucks to the deck, your board should be ready to skate. Stand on the board to make sure that it holds your weight. If it does not break from your weight, try riding it down the sidewalk. Make sure that you have double-checked the integrity of every piece of your board—bearings, wheels, trucks, deck—before you ride it around on streets or busy walkways. Tips Try to keep the nose nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose. Be creative. This is yours, so it can be whatever you want. Be very careful, though, as precision here is what makes a beautiful board at the end. Do it twice if possible. Make sure to keep the surface you're standing on has a lot of friction so you don't fall off. Warnings Be careful that the board doesn't break in half. It may take a few tries to make a good board. Always wear sliding gloves when doing stunts. Have fun and be careful when you're out riding. Always wear proper protection: a helmet, knee pads, and wrist guards. Be careful when using the tools to make a longboard.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:46", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Picking Your Parts\\n1-1. Gather your materials for the deck.\\nYou will need:\\nPlywood or hardwood to build your deck; 2-3\\nWood glue or another strong adhesive\\nRough and fine-grained sandpaper\\n8 small screws to attach the trucks to the deck—four for each truck. The screws should be long enough to fasten the trucks securely to the board, but not long enough that they get in the way. Match the width to the size of the holes in your trucks.\\nScrews or a staple-gun to help seal the board when you shape its curve. The amount of screws/staples will vary greatly depending on the size of your board and the quality of your pressing mechanism—screws may not be necessary if you use a board press, but they will make your deck much tighter if you are molding it with basic weights or clamps.\\nA drill\\nWeights\\nA jig saw to cut out the deck\\nPolyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin, hardener, and cloth\\nA large piece of paper and a pencil for drawing out your board design.\\nGrip tape (to make it easier for your feet to stick to the top of the board)\\n1-2. Choose your wood.\\nFor a cheap board, use 2-3 1/4-inch-thick plywood sheets or 4-6 1/8-inch sheets. Alternately, use 7-9 plies, each about one mm thick. You will use screws or wood glue to fuse these pieces of wood together into a longboard deck. The amount of sheets that you use depends upon how much flex you want: the more layers of wood, the more rigid your board will be. You can also buy a pre-pressed deck and build your longboard out from there.\\nIf you have the time or money to do so, try to find high-quality wood. Bamboo, Birch, White Ash, and Maple are popular choices, and each offers a different ride. Bamboo will be the strongest of the three.\\nEach piece of wood should be 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide by 40 inches long, or longer if you want a longer board. You should have a basic idea of the shape of board you want before you start to build one. Remember, however, that you can always cut a piece of wood down to size.\\nDo not go to the lumberyard at a hardware or home-and-garden store: this wood is usually dry, and thus better for construction than riding. An actual lumberyard would work best. Realistically, you can use almost any hardwood—even salvaged pieces of flooring.\\n1-3. Choose your adhesive.\\nFind a good, flexible wood glue, or epoxy and resin. You can find these products at most construction or hardware stores. The adhesive functions to keep the layers of plywood together, so if you have cheap wood glue, you will have a cheap board.\\n1-4. Choose your trucks.\\nTrucks are the metal bits that attach the wheels to the board and allow the longboard to turn when you lean. The right trucks are important to a longboard's feel. You will most likely want Reverse Kingpin Trucks, unless the board has a tail and you are planning to ollie it. Standard Kingpin provides better pop, while Reverse get better stability and turn response.\\nSome longboard trucks have Double Kingpins, which allow for a tighter carve, but sacrifice some stability.\\n1-5. Choose the wheels.\\nThe harder the wheel, the more it will slide. If you want to go sideways, get one with a higher (harder) durometer. A good slide wheel will usually be above 80a durometer. Softer wheels will be more grippy, and better for sticking tight turns.\\n1-6. Choose your bearings.\\nBearings fit inside the wheels and enable them to turn smoothly. These range quite a bit in price, depending on the quality you are looking for. Ceramic bearings are nice, but they usually cost well over a hundred dollars. A suitable set of steel bearings can cost as little as $20. For instance, check out Bones Reds or Seismic Tektons for a good entry-level bearing.\\n2. Sealing and Shaping the Deck\\n2-1. Cut your plywood (or hardwood) to size.\\nCut the wood into strips that are about 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 40 inches long—slightly longer than you want your board to be. Leave longer strips for a longer board, or shorter strips for a shorter board. Don't worry about shaping the board: you just need rectangular strips of plywood for now. You will carve out the shape of your board once you press the pieces together into a solid deck.\\n2-2. Draw out the shape of your board.\\nOn paper, draw a straight line that is as long as you want your board to be. This line will be the center of your board. Now draw the shape of your board as it will flare from this line. If you want your board to be symmetrical, only draw one half of the deck, then use the same outline to carve out both sides. Consider how you want to use your longboard: longer boards (40-60+ inches) tend to be better for building speed on long-distance straightaways; shorter boards are more portable and may be better for quick, sharp turns; cruising boards tend to be wider, and carving boards tend to be more streamlined.\\nIf this is your first board, keep things simple. Draw a slight curve at the front and try to keep it nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose.\\n2-3. Use a pencil to trace the shape of your board onto the top piece wood.\\nYou will press the wood together with pressure and adhesive, let the pressed wood dry, and then carve this shape out. Trace carefully, and make sure to draw the deck exactly as you want it. Look out for imperfections in the wood, and make sure that each half of the board is symmetrical—unless you'd like it otherwise.\\n2-4. Drill holes around the outside of the board outline.\\nYou will drill screws through these holes to help clamp the wood together, so try to make the holes slightly smaller than your screws. Again, the amount of screws (and, thus, holes) will vary greatly depending on the size of your board, so there is no set number that you must use. Try to space the screw points evenly around the board shape, and consider which points on your design might require extra support to seal—parts of the board that flare/jut out, for instance, or that dip sharply in toward the center.\\nKeep your pieces of plywood or hardwood evenly stacked, and hold them in place so that they do not shift. Drill holes straight through the wood, and make sure not to drill through the area that will become your deck. Drill the holes about one inch from the outline of the board.\\nConsider waiting to drill the holes until the wood is clamped. Drill the screws directly into the wood, and be careful not to drill into the deck shape.\\n2-5. Stick the pieces of wood together.\\nMix your adhesive, then use a paintbrush to spread a thick layer of adhesive on the inner-facing side of each piece of wood. Then, carefully put them back together. Make sure that your pre-drilled holes are still on top.\\nMake sure to protect the floor. The pressure will push glue out of the pre-drilled holes and the edges of the wood, and you don't want to spill glue on the floor.\\n2-6. Shape the board.\\nStack your plywood pieces so that a clean, smooth side of one piece (which will eventually become the top surface of the longboard) is on the bottom. Arrange the wood so that the ends of the board are each resting on something, and the middle is hanging free.\\n2-7. Place weights onto the board.\\nLay weights onto the stack of wood, right around the widest part of the board. You want your eventual board to bend slightly upwards in the middle, so that when you stand on it, it flattens out. This procedure is more of an art than anything else, so put weight on it until you like the result. Make a light curve for best results. Leave the board beneath the weights until the curve is well set into the wood.\\nConsider using strong clamps instead of weights. Clamp the center of the board so that it sinks below the front and back tips of the deck.\\n2-8. Put a screw through a hole near the nose of your board.\\nThen put the weights back on top or re-clamp the deck. if you are happy with the curve, put screws in all around the board. Keep the part between the lines free of adhesive.\\n2-9. Check the curve again to make sure you are satisfied.\\nWhen you are sure, wait for the adhesive to set, following the directions on the bottle.\\n2-10. Take out the screws.\\n\\n2-11. Consider using a board press to mold your deck.\\nThe press is much more expensive than simple adhesive, but it may be a wise investment if you plan to make multiple boards. The two main types of board press are the coffin press and the vacuum press.\\nCoffin press: A coffin press is two 2x4s running along the edges of a sheet of plywood, along with another 2x4 running along the middle of another sheet of plywood. The sheets of plywood are then connected via screws and nuts with the 2x4s facing inward. The board (all of your layers glued together) is placed on the two 2x4s. Then place the top of the coffin press on top of the board, screw it down to the amount of concave you want, wait about 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out your shape, and you've got a deck!\\nVacuum press: When you put the plies in, they are already cut into shape and glued. The vacuum press sucks all the air out while pressing the plies into a mold that you can use. Wait 24 hours with your plies in the press, and you have a deck. You can buy a vacuum press online.\\n3. Finishing the Deck\\n3-1. Carve the shape into the board.\\nGrab one of your pieces of plywood, and find the smoothest, best-looking side. This is going to be the bottom of the board.\\nMeasure from the sides to find the exact center of the board. Draw a line lengthwise down the center of the board—from the front to the back.\\nTrace along the edges of your template. Hold your template in place with your hand, a clamp, or a weight.\\nFlip the board over and repeat for the other side.\\nYour design is now on your board. Take your stencil off of the plywood and make sure that you like the shape.\\n3-2. Sand everything down.\\nMake sure that the board is smooth and free of scratches.\\n3-3. Cover the board with a layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin.\\nEither coating will protect your paint from scratches. Look around at hardware stores and skate shops to compare prices and see what's available in your area.\\nIf you are using fiberglass resin: First, mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener at the correct proportion. Then lay out the fiberglass cloth on the painted side; using a paintbrush, spread the resin evenly across the board. Be sure to work quickly and effectively, because the fiberglass begins to harden in about 15 minutes. After it is applied, let it cure for about 3-4 hours.\\nIf you are using polyurethane varnish: Spread the varnish evenly across the board with a paintbrush. Make sure that the coat is smooth. When you're done, let the varnish dry for 3-4 hours before you proceed with your board-building.\\n4. Decorating the Board\\n4-1. Sand the board down one final time using a very fine-grained sandpaper.\\nNow, you can add whatever sort of design you like, with paint or waterproof markers.\\nFor a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.\\n4-2. Consider painting your board.\\nYou can leave your deck plain with its natural wood, but painting or otherwise decorating the board is a great way to make it unique. Use electrical tape or a stencil to mark out your design. Paint the bottom of your deck.\\nUse spray paint. Cut out a stencil from paper or cardboard, choose your colors, and spray-paint the design onto the smooth bottom of your board. Allow the paint time to dry before you touch or ride the board.\\nUse regular acrylic paint. Sketch out a design and paint between the lines; paint whatever you like. Allow 20-60 minutes for the paint to dry after you decorate the board.\\nUse wood stain to paint. To create a pattern with a few different shades, use three coats for the dark parts and one coat for the lighter parts. After the stain dries, remove the tape.\\nUse permanent markers. Your design may be less colorful and more fragile than if you used paint, but you may find that markers give you greater control when you are drawing on your board.\\n4-3. Add a final layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin.\\nThis will seal your design onto the bottom of the board. The varnish or resin should be clear, so your design should still be visible through the protective coating.\\n4-4. Cover the top of the board with grip tape.\\nBuy a chunk of bulk grip tape that will cover your whole board. The tape will help your feet stick to the board at high speeds. Apply it carefully to the deck, just like a large sticker. Remove excess tape with a razor blade or box cutter. The design is up to you:\\nCover the entire surface with grip tape. This is the simplest method, and it will look like a standard longboard top.\\nCut up pieces and create designs out of grip tape. Make sure that you cover enough of the board surface that your feet can easily grip. In general, your pattern should contain more grip tape than empty wood space.\\nPaint your board and apply clear grip tape over the top to display your design. The clear grip tape may be somewhat opaque, but the colors and general idea of your design should shine through.\\n4-5. Consider using board wax instead of grip tape for barefoot riding.\\nUse surfboard wax on the surface of your longboard if you plan to ride it barefoot most of the time. Bear in mind that you will need reapply wax, as it wears off with use.\\n5. Attaching Trucks, Wheels, and Bearings\\n5-1. Place the bearings inside the wheels.\\nTo do this, take a bearing, and push it down into each wheel. You can't push it too far; there will be a little barrier for it to sit against. Put a bearing inside each of the four wheels.\\n5-2. Attach the wheels to the trucks.\\nJust slide the wheel/bearing assembly onto the truck, with the concave portion of your wheels (if they are concave) facing outwards. Secure these onto the trucks with the nuts provided. The nuts should be tight enough that they allow for easy and free spinning of the wheels, but not so tight that they come off while skating.\\n5-3. Drill the holes for the trucks.\\nBe sure that they are straight, or else the trucks will not align correctly.\\n5-4. Attach the trucks and wheels to the deck.\\nYou will need the truck spacers and the trucks to do this. Place the spacer between the truck and the deck. When orientating your trucks, make sure that the tightening bolt faces towards the nose of the board in the front, and that the loosening bolt faces towards the tail of the board in the back. Arranging them to face opposite directions ensures that you can turn in the right direction when you lean. Tighten the truck and spacers on to the deck with 4 bolts to each assembly.\\n5-5. Test out your new board.\\nWhen you have attached your bearings, wheels, and trucks to the deck, your board should be ready to skate. Stand on the board to make sure that it holds your weight. If it does not break from your weight, try riding it down the sidewalk. Make sure that you have double-checked the integrity of every piece of your board—bearings, wheels, trucks, deck—before you ride it around on streets or busy walkways.\\nTips\\nTry to keep the nose nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose.\\nBe creative. This is yours, so it can be whatever you want. Be very careful, though, as precision here is what makes a beautiful board at the end. Do it twice if possible.\\nMake sure to keep the surface you're standing on has a lot of friction so you don't fall off.\\nWarnings\\nBe careful that the board doesn't break in half. It may take a few tries to make a good board.\\nAlways wear sliding gloves when doing stunts.\\nHave fun and be careful when you're out riding.\\nAlways wear proper protection: a helmet, knee pads, and wrist guards.\\nBe careful when using the tools to make a longboard.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a longboard is usually cheaper than buying one, and it can be a lot of fun to make your own a unique board. You will need a bit of wood chopping ability, access to woodworking tools, a dash of creativity, and a lot of motivation to build your own board. If you need help, ask a friend, a parent, or the staff at a local skate shop.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Picking Your Parts\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Gather your materials for the deck.\", \"描述\": \"You will need:\\nPlywood or hardwood to build your deck; 2-3\\nWood glue or another strong adhesive\\nRough and fine-grained sandpaper\\n8 small screws to attach the trucks to the deck—four for each truck. The screws should be long enough to fasten the trucks securely to the board, but not long enough that they get in the way. Match the width to the size of the holes in your trucks.\\nScrews or a staple-gun to help seal the board when you shape its curve. The amount of screws/staples will vary greatly depending on the size of your board and the quality of your pressing mechanism—screws may not be necessary if you use a board press, but they will make your deck much tighter if you are molding it with basic weights or clamps.\\nA drill\\nWeights\\nA jig saw to cut out the deck\\nPolyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin, hardener, and cloth\\nA large piece of paper and a pencil for drawing out your board design.\\nGrip tape (to make it easier for your feet to stick to the top of the board)\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Choose your wood.\", \"描述\": \"For a cheap board, use 2-3 1/4-inch-thick plywood sheets or 4-6 1/8-inch sheets. Alternately, use 7-9 plies, each about one mm thick. You will use screws or wood glue to fuse these pieces of wood together into a longboard deck. The amount of sheets that you use depends upon how much flex you want: the more layers of wood, the more rigid your board will be. You can also buy a pre-pressed deck and build your longboard out from there.\\nIf you have the time or money to do so, try to find high-quality wood. Bamboo, Birch, White Ash, and Maple are popular choices, and each offers a different ride. Bamboo will be the strongest of the three.\\nEach piece of wood should be 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide by 40 inches long, or longer if you want a longer board. You should have a basic idea of the shape of board you want before you start to build one. Remember, however, that you can always cut a piece of wood down to size.\\nDo not go to the lumberyard at a hardware or home-and-garden store: this wood is usually dry, and thus better for construction than riding. An actual lumberyard would work best. Realistically, you can use almost any hardwood—even salvaged pieces of flooring.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Choose your adhesive.\", \"描述\": \"Find a good, flexible wood glue, or epoxy and resin. You can find these products at most construction or hardware stores. The adhesive functions to keep the layers of plywood together, so if you have cheap wood glue, you will have a cheap board.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Choose your trucks.\", \"描述\": \"Trucks are the metal bits that attach the wheels to the board and allow the longboard to turn when you lean. The right trucks are important to a longboard's feel. You will most likely want Reverse Kingpin Trucks, unless the board has a tail and you are planning to ollie it. Standard Kingpin provides better pop, while Reverse get better stability and turn response.\\nSome longboard trucks have Double Kingpins, which allow for a tighter carve, but sacrifice some stability.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Choose the wheels.\", \"描述\": \"The harder the wheel, the more it will slide. If you want to go sideways, get one with a higher (harder) durometer. A good slide wheel will usually be above 80a durometer. Softer wheels will be more grippy, and better for sticking tight turns.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Choose your bearings.\", \"描述\": \"Bearings fit inside the wheels and enable them to turn smoothly. These range quite a bit in price, depending on the quality you are looking for. Ceramic bearings are nice, but they usually cost well over a hundred dollars. A suitable set of steel bearings can cost as little as $20. For instance, check out Bones Reds or Seismic Tektons for a good entry-level bearing.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sealing and Shaping the Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut your plywood (or hardwood) to size.\", \"描述\": \"Cut the wood into strips that are about 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 40 inches long—slightly longer than you want your board to be. Leave longer strips for a longer board, or shorter strips for a shorter board. Don't worry about shaping the board: you just need rectangular strips of plywood for now. You will carve out the shape of your board once you press the pieces together into a solid deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Draw out the shape of your board.\", \"描述\": \"On paper, draw a straight line that is as long as you want your board to be. This line will be the center of your board. Now draw the shape of your board as it will flare from this line. If you want your board to be symmetrical, only draw one half of the deck, then use the same outline to carve out both sides. Consider how you want to use your longboard: longer boards (40-60+ inches) tend to be better for building speed on long-distance straightaways; shorter boards are more portable and may be better for quick, sharp turns; cruising boards tend to be wider, and carving boards tend to be more streamlined.\\nIf this is your first board, keep things simple. Draw a slight curve at the front and try to keep it nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Use a pencil to trace the shape of your board onto the top piece wood.\", \"描述\": \"You will press the wood together with pressure and adhesive, let the pressed wood dry, and then carve this shape out. Trace carefully, and make sure to draw the deck exactly as you want it. Look out for imperfections in the wood, and make sure that each half of the board is symmetrical—unless you'd like it otherwise.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Drill holes around the outside of the board outline.\", \"描述\": \"You will drill screws through these holes to help clamp the wood together, so try to make the holes slightly smaller than your screws. Again, the amount of screws (and, thus, holes) will vary greatly depending on the size of your board, so there is no set number that you must use. Try to space the screw points evenly around the board shape, and consider which points on your design might require extra support to seal—parts of the board that flare/jut out, for instance, or that dip sharply in toward the center.\\nKeep your pieces of plywood or hardwood evenly stacked, and hold them in place so that they do not shift. Drill holes straight through the wood, and make sure not to drill through the area that will become your deck. Drill the holes about one inch from the outline of the board.\\nConsider waiting to drill the holes until the wood is clamped. Drill the screws directly into the wood, and be careful not to drill into the deck shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Stick the pieces of wood together.\", \"描述\": \"Mix your adhesive, then use a paintbrush to spread a thick layer of adhesive on the inner-facing side of each piece of wood. Then, carefully put them back together. Make sure that your pre-drilled holes are still on top.\\nMake sure to protect the floor. The pressure will push glue out of the pre-drilled holes and the edges of the wood, and you don't want to spill glue on the floor.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Shape the board.\", \"描述\": \"Stack your plywood pieces so that a clean, smooth side of one piece (which will eventually become the top surface of the longboard) is on the bottom. Arrange the wood so that the ends of the board are each resting on something, and the middle is hanging free.\"}, {\"编号\": 7, \"标题\": \"Place weights onto the board.\", \"描述\": \"Lay weights onto the stack of wood, right around the widest part of the board. You want your eventual board to bend slightly upwards in the middle, so that when you stand on it, it flattens out. This procedure is more of an art than anything else, so put weight on it until you like the result. Make a light curve for best results. Leave the board beneath the weights until the curve is well set into the wood.\\nConsider using strong clamps instead of weights. Clamp the center of the board so that it sinks below the front and back tips of the deck.\"}, {\"编号\": 8, \"标题\": \"Put a screw through a hole near the nose of your board.\", \"描述\": \"Then put the weights back on top or re-clamp the deck. if you are happy with the curve, put screws in all around the board. Keep the part between the lines free of adhesive.\"}, {\"编号\": 9, \"标题\": \"Check the curve again to make sure you are satisfied.\", \"描述\": \"When you are sure, wait for the adhesive to set, following the directions on the bottle.\"}, {\"编号\": 10, \"标题\": \"Take out the screws.\", \"描述\": \"\"}, {\"编号\": 11, \"标题\": \"Consider using a board press to mold your deck.\", \"描述\": \"The press is much more expensive than simple adhesive, but it may be a wise investment if you plan to make multiple boards. The two main types of board press are the coffin press and the vacuum press.\\nCoffin press: A coffin press is two 2x4s running along the edges of a sheet of plywood, along with another 2x4 running along the middle of another sheet of plywood. The sheets of plywood are then connected via screws and nuts with the 2x4s facing inward. The board (all of your layers glued together) is placed on the two 2x4s. Then place the top of the coffin press on top of the board, screw it down to the amount of concave you want, wait about 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out your shape, and you've got a deck!\\nVacuum press: When you put the plies in, they are already cut into shape and glued. The vacuum press sucks all the air out while pressing the plies into a mold that you can use. Wait 24 hours with your plies in the press, and you have a deck. You can buy a vacuum press online.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing the Deck\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Carve the shape into the board.\", \"描述\": \"Grab one of your pieces of plywood, and find the smoothest, best-looking side. This is going to be the bottom of the board.\\nMeasure from the sides to find the exact center of the board. Draw a line lengthwise down the center of the board—from the front to the back.\\nTrace along the edges of your template. Hold your template in place with your hand, a clamp, or a weight.\\nFlip the board over and repeat for the other side.\\nYour design is now on your board. Take your stencil off of the plywood and make sure that you like the shape.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Sand everything down.\", \"描述\": \"Make sure that the board is smooth and free of scratches.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Cover the board with a layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin.\", \"描述\": \"Either coating will protect your paint from scratches. Look around at hardware stores and skate shops to compare prices and see what's available in your area.\\nIf you are using fiberglass resin: First, mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener at the correct proportion. Then lay out the fiberglass cloth on the painted side; using a paintbrush, spread the resin evenly across the board. Be sure to work quickly and effectively, because the fiberglass begins to harden in about 15 minutes. After it is applied, let it cure for about 3-4 hours.\\nIf you are using polyurethane varnish: Spread the varnish evenly across the board with a paintbrush. Make sure that the coat is smooth. When you're done, let the varnish dry for 3-4 hours before you proceed with your board-building.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Decorating the Board\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Sand the board down one final time using a very fine-grained sandpaper.\", \"描述\": \"Now, you can add whatever sort of design you like, with paint or waterproof markers.\\nFor a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Consider painting your board.\", \"描述\": \"You can leave your deck plain with its natural wood, but painting or otherwise decorating the board is a great way to make it unique. Use electrical tape or a stencil to mark out your design. Paint the bottom of your deck.\\nUse spray paint. Cut out a stencil from paper or cardboard, choose your colors, and spray-paint the design onto the smooth bottom of your board. Allow the paint time to dry before you touch or ride the board.\\nUse regular acrylic paint. Sketch out a design and paint between the lines; paint whatever you like. Allow 20-60 minutes for the paint to dry after you decorate the board.\\nUse wood stain to paint. To create a pattern with a few different shades, use three coats for the dark parts and one coat for the lighter parts. After the stain dries, remove the tape.\\nUse permanent markers. Your design may be less colorful and more fragile than if you used paint, but you may find that markers give you greater control when you are drawing on your board.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Add a final layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin.\", \"描述\": \"This will seal your design onto the bottom of the board. The varnish or resin should be clear, so your design should still be visible through the protective coating.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Cover the top of the board with grip tape.\", \"描述\": \"Buy a chunk of bulk grip tape that will cover your whole board. The tape will help your feet stick to the board at high speeds. Apply it carefully to the deck, just like a large sticker. Remove excess tape with a razor blade or box cutter. The design is up to you:\\nCover the entire surface with grip tape. This is the simplest method, and it will look like a standard longboard top.\\nCut up pieces and create designs out of grip tape. Make sure that you cover enough of the board surface that your feet can easily grip. In general, your pattern should contain more grip tape than empty wood space.\\nPaint your board and apply clear grip tape over the top to display your design. The clear grip tape may be somewhat opaque, but the colors and general idea of your design should shine through.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Consider using board wax instead of grip tape for barefoot riding.\", \"描述\": \"Use surfboard wax on the surface of your longboard if you plan to ride it barefoot most of the time. Bear in mind that you will need reapply wax, as it wears off with use.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Attaching Trucks, Wheels, and Bearings\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Place the bearings inside the wheels.\", \"描述\": \"To do this, take a bearing, and push it down into each wheel. You can't push it too far; there will be a little barrier for it to sit against. Put a bearing inside each of the four wheels.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Attach the wheels to the trucks.\", \"描述\": \"Just slide the wheel/bearing assembly onto the truck, with the concave portion of your wheels (if they are concave) facing outwards. Secure these onto the trucks with the nuts provided. The nuts should be tight enough that they allow for easy and free spinning of the wheels, but not so tight that they come off while skating.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Drill the holes for the trucks.\", \"描述\": \"Be sure that they are straight, or else the trucks will not align correctly.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Attach the trucks and wheels to the deck.\", \"描述\": \"You will need the truck spacers and the trucks to do this. Place the spacer between the truck and the deck. When orientating your trucks, make sure that the tightening bolt faces towards the nose of the board in the front, and that the loosening bolt faces towards the tail of the board in the back. Arranging them to face opposite directions ensures that you can turn in the right direction when you lean. Tighten the truck and spacers on to the deck with 4 bolts to each assembly.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Test out your new board.\", \"描述\": \"When you have attached your bearings, wheels, and trucks to the deck, your board should be ready to skate. Stand on the board to make sure that it holds your weight. If it does not break from your weight, try riding it down the sidewalk. Make sure that you have double-checked the integrity of every piece of your board—bearings, wheels, trucks, deck—before you ride it around on streets or busy walkways.\"}], \"小提示\": [\"Try to keep the nose nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose.\\n\", \"Be creative. This is yours, so it can be whatever you want. Be very careful, though, as precision here is what makes a beautiful board at the end. Do it twice if possible.\\n\", \"Make sure to keep the surface you're standing on has a lot of friction so you don't fall off.\\n\"], \"注意事项\": [\"Be careful that the board doesn't break in half. It may take a few tries to make a good board.\\n\", \"Always wear sliding gloves when doing stunts.\\n\", \"Have fun and be careful when you're out riding.\\n\", \"Always wear proper protection: a helmet, knee pads, and wrist guards.\\n\", \"Be careful when using the tools to make a longboard.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
wikihow
7,418
How to Build a Longbow
1. Shaping Your Bow 1-1. Buy or find a long, straight, knot-free hardwood stave. Your stave—the piece of wood that will become the bow—needs to be sturdy yet somewhat flexible, and have few if any twists and knots. It should be about 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) long and 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) in diameter. You can buy a piece of hardwood at a home improvement store, or build a more rustic longbow by using a tree branch. Fallen branches often work just as well or even better than fresh-cut branches. Look for a fallen branch that has dried out somewhat but isn't brittle. Some of the best bow woods include yew, ash, and hickory. That said, pretty much any hardwood, including maple and oak, will do the job. Softwoods like pine and cedar aren't good candidates. 1-2. Scrape off any bark on the stave with a knife or other sharp tool. A pocket knife or wood carving knife works well here, but pretty much any type of sharp blade will do. Use short, shallow strokes to scrape away the bark. Try not to remove the wood beneath the bark at this point, though. It’s not essential to remove the bark, but it makes it easier to get a better look at how the wood flexes and make adjustments as needed. It also improves the appearance of your DIY bow! 1-3. Press the stave while it’s upright to find its natural curve. Hold the stave upright, with a loose grip on the top and the bottom set against your foot. Gently press outward against the center of the stave. The stave will rotate and its natural curve will point away from you. This maneuver identifies the inside and outside—also called the “belly” and “back”—of the bow. The “belly” will be closest to your body when you draw the bow. You may be making some cuts to the inside of the stave, but the outside must be left untouched. Any cuts made to the outside will severely affect the longevity and structural integrity of the bow. 1-4. Mark the handhold at the center of the stave. Find the middle of the stave, using a tape measure if available, or by making your best guess. Measure or estimate 3 in (7.6 cm) in both directions along the stave from the center point, and mark these with a permanent marker or a shallow notch with your knife. This center section is the handhold—the spot where you’ll hold the bow while drawing it. Like the outside of the stave, leave the handhold untouched to preserve the structural integrity of the bow. 1-5. Bend the stave again and take a closer look at the curve. Hold the stave upright with your hand and against your foot once again. This time, though, apply a bit more pressure to flex the wood further—the center should push outward by at least 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm). Look closely at the curve of the stave and identify any spots where the wood isn’t flexing as easily. 1-6. Shave wood from the inside of the bow to adjust the curve. Using the blade of your knife or other sharp tool, shave away a few layers of bark and wood from one of the spots where the wood isn’t flexing properly. By removing wood, you will increase the flexibility of the stiff areas. Keep shaving away wood and testing the flexibility of the bow until it bends in a uniform shape, both above and below the handhold. Cut wood only from the inside of the curve. Leave the outside of the bow untouched. The handhold and tips should remain relatively straight compared to the rest of the bow. The amount of carving required will vary greatly depending on how thick the stave is. 2. Stringing the Bow 2-1. Cut notches on the inside and outside of each bow tip. These notches will hold the bow string in place. Make the notches on the outside curve no more than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) deep, and the notches on the inside no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep. Cut the notches about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) in from the tips of the bow. 2-2. Tie your chosen bow string around the notches you cut. The bow string should be about 8 in (20 cm) shorter than the stave. Tie one end around the notches at the bottom of the stave, then tie a slipknot at the other end of the bow string. Flex the bow until you can get the slipknot over the notches at the top of the bow. Once in place, there should be a gap of about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) between the bow string and the handhold. Choose a different length of bow string if the gap is substantially smaller or larger than this. Purchase a bow string, or use any string or cord material that is strong and durable, and that stretches only slightly under tension. Good options include nylon paracord, a long shoestring, or even twisted-together plant fibers if you really want to get back to nature! Do not pull back on the string yet—the bow is not complete and could break. 2-3. Hang the bow horizontally so it’s positioned above you. Your aim is to rest the bow on the center handhold, above your head height but within your reach, with the string perpendicular to the ground. If you’re at home, you can, for instance, hang the handhold from a bicycle hook screwed into a roof rafter or ceiling joist. In the woods, find a sturdy, low-hanging tree limb that you can feed the bow over until it’s nearly against the trunk. 2-4. Pull down on the bowstring and fine-tune the bend of the bow. Pull the string down about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) and look at the curve of the bow. Visually identify spots that aren’t bending freely, release the string, and use your knife to shave away wood from the inside of the bow in these areas. Pull the string again and repeat the process until the bow curves evenly. Don’t stop yet, though! Pull the string down 5–6 in (13–15 cm) and shave wood from the bow as needed. Repeat the process at 7–8 in (18–20 cm) and 9–10 in (23–25 cm) as well. 3. Finishing Your Bow 3-1. Apply a coat of a protective oil to keep the wood from drying out. Linseed oil and tung oil are good options here. Apply an even coat of your chosen oil with a natural bristle paint brush, then wipe away the excess with a rag. Allow the oil to dry for at least 4 hours, and possibly overnight. Throw the oil-soaked rag in a bucket of water and leave it there while the bow dries. Then, hang the rag out to dry and throw it in the trash once it’s no longer damp. This eliminates the chance of the oil-soaked rag catching on fire. Applying a protective oil is an optional step, but it will help your bow last longer and look better. 3-2. Rub the dried finish with fine sandpaper, then apply more oil if desired. Once the coat of oil is completely dry, lightly rub the entire bow with fine-grit (360 or higher grit) sandpaper. If you want to apply a second coat of oil, wipe down the sanded bow with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat in the same manner as the first. 3-3. Try out your new bow. At this point, the bow is ready to be used. Nock an arrow, get into firing position, draw the bowstring, zero in on your practice target, and let it fly! If you want to go completely DIY, try making your own arrows as well. Do not test fire the bow without an arrow, as this can damage the bow and cause it to break. Make safety your first priority when using your longbow. Never aim an arrow anywhere close to another person. Warnings A longbow can be a deadly weapon. If you’re hunting, never point it at something you don’t intend to kill.
{ "create_time": "20230517 10:59:47", "回答明细": "{\"回答\": \"1. Shaping Your Bow\\n1-1. Buy or find a long, straight, knot-free hardwood stave.\\nYour stave—the piece of wood that will become the bow—needs to be sturdy yet somewhat flexible, and have few if any twists and knots. It should be about 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) long and 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) in diameter.\\nYou can buy a piece of hardwood at a home improvement store, or build a more rustic longbow by using a tree branch. Fallen branches often work just as well or even better than fresh-cut branches. Look for a fallen branch that has dried out somewhat but isn't brittle.\\nSome of the best bow woods include yew, ash, and hickory. That said, pretty much any hardwood, including maple and oak, will do the job. Softwoods like pine and cedar aren't good candidates.\\n1-2. Scrape off any bark on the stave with a knife or other sharp tool.\\nA pocket knife or wood carving knife works well here, but pretty much any type of sharp blade will do. Use short, shallow strokes to scrape away the bark. Try not to remove the wood beneath the bark at this point, though.\\nIt’s not essential to remove the bark, but it makes it easier to get a better look at how the wood flexes and make adjustments as needed. It also improves the appearance of your DIY bow!\\n1-3. Press the stave while it’s upright to find its natural curve.\\nHold the stave upright, with a loose grip on the top and the bottom set against your foot. Gently press outward against the center of the stave. The stave will rotate and its natural curve will point away from you.\\nThis maneuver identifies the inside and outside—also called the “belly” and “back”—of the bow. The “belly” will be closest to your body when you draw the bow.\\nYou may be making some cuts to the inside of the stave, but the outside must be left untouched. Any cuts made to the outside will severely affect the longevity and structural integrity of the bow.\\n1-4. Mark the handhold at the center of the stave.\\nFind the middle of the stave, using a tape measure if available, or by making your best guess. Measure or estimate 3 in (7.6 cm) in both directions along the stave from the center point, and mark these with a permanent marker or a shallow notch with your knife.\\nThis center section is the handhold—the spot where you’ll hold the bow while drawing it. Like the outside of the stave, leave the handhold untouched to preserve the structural integrity of the bow.\\n1-5. Bend the stave again and take a closer look at the curve.\\nHold the stave upright with your hand and against your foot once again. This time, though, apply a bit more pressure to flex the wood further—the center should push outward by at least 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm). Look closely at the curve of the stave and identify any spots where the wood isn’t flexing as easily.\\n1-6. Shave wood from the inside of the bow to adjust the curve.\\nUsing the blade of your knife or other sharp tool, shave away a few layers of bark and wood from one of the spots where the wood isn’t flexing properly. By removing wood, you will increase the flexibility of the stiff areas. Keep shaving away wood and testing the flexibility of the bow until it bends in a uniform shape, both above and below the handhold.\\nCut wood only from the inside of the curve. Leave the outside of the bow untouched.\\nThe handhold and tips should remain relatively straight compared to the rest of the bow.\\nThe amount of carving required will vary greatly depending on how thick the stave is.\\n2. Stringing the Bow\\n2-1. Cut notches on the inside and outside of each bow tip.\\nThese notches will hold the bow string in place. Make the notches on the outside curve no more than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) deep, and the notches on the inside no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep.\\nCut the notches about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) in from the tips of the bow.\\n2-2. Tie your chosen bow string around the notches you cut.\\nThe bow string should be about 8 in (20 cm) shorter than the stave. Tie one end around the notches at the bottom of the stave, then tie a slipknot at the other end of the bow string. Flex the bow until you can get the slipknot over the notches at the top of the bow.\\nOnce in place, there should be a gap of about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) between the bow string and the handhold. Choose a different length of bow string if the gap is substantially smaller or larger than this.\\nPurchase a bow string, or use any string or cord material that is strong and durable, and that stretches only slightly under tension. Good options include nylon paracord, a long shoestring, or even twisted-together plant fibers if you really want to get back to nature!\\nDo not pull back on the string yet—the bow is not complete and could break.\\n2-3. Hang the bow horizontally so it’s positioned above you.\\nYour aim is to rest the bow on the center handhold, above your head height but within your reach, with the string perpendicular to the ground. If you’re at home, you can, for instance, hang the handhold from a bicycle hook screwed into a roof rafter or ceiling joist. In the woods, find a sturdy, low-hanging tree limb that you can feed the bow over until it’s nearly against the trunk.\\n2-4. Pull down on the bowstring and fine-tune the bend of the bow.\\nPull the string down about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) and look at the curve of the bow. Visually identify spots that aren’t bending freely, release the string, and use your knife to shave away wood from the inside of the bow in these areas. Pull the string again and repeat the process until the bow curves evenly.\\nDon’t stop yet, though! Pull the string down 5–6 in (13–15 cm) and shave wood from the bow as needed. Repeat the process at 7–8 in (18–20 cm) and 9–10 in (23–25 cm) as well.\\n3. Finishing Your Bow\\n3-1. Apply a coat of a protective oil to keep the wood from drying out.\\nLinseed oil and tung oil are good options here. Apply an even coat of your chosen oil with a natural bristle paint brush, then wipe away the excess with a rag. Allow the oil to dry for at least 4 hours, and possibly overnight.\\nThrow the oil-soaked rag in a bucket of water and leave it there while the bow dries. Then, hang the rag out to dry and throw it in the trash once it’s no longer damp. This eliminates the chance of the oil-soaked rag catching on fire.\\nApplying a protective oil is an optional step, but it will help your bow last longer and look better.\\n3-2. Rub the dried finish with fine sandpaper, then apply more oil if desired.\\nOnce the coat of oil is completely dry, lightly rub the entire bow with fine-grit (360 or higher grit) sandpaper. If you want to apply a second coat of oil, wipe down the sanded bow with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat in the same manner as the first.\\n3-3. Try out your new bow.\\nAt this point, the bow is ready to be used. Nock an arrow, get into firing position, draw the bowstring, zero in on your practice target, and let it fly!\\nIf you want to go completely DIY, try making your own arrows as well.\\nDo not test fire the bow without an arrow, as this can damage the bow and cause it to break.\\nMake safety your first priority when using your longbow. Never aim an arrow anywhere close to another person.\\nWarnings\\nA longbow can be a deadly weapon. If you’re hunting, never point it at something you don’t intend to kill.\\n\", \"简要回答\": \"Building a longbow from scratch isn’t quite so simple as finding a long piece of wood and attaching a string to it. That said, it isn’t beyond the skills of the average DIYer, and it can be a very rewarding project. If you take the time to choose, shape, string, and finish your bow properly, you can build yourself a functioning longbow that might last for years.\", \"结构\": {\"方法\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Shaping Your Bow\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Buy or find a long, straight, knot-free hardwood stave.\", \"描述\": \"Your stave—the piece of wood that will become the bow—needs to be sturdy yet somewhat flexible, and have few if any twists and knots. It should be about 5–6 ft (1.5–1.8 m) long and 1.5–2 in (3.8–5.1 cm) in diameter.\\nYou can buy a piece of hardwood at a home improvement store, or build a more rustic longbow by using a tree branch. Fallen branches often work just as well or even better than fresh-cut branches. Look for a fallen branch that has dried out somewhat but isn't brittle.\\nSome of the best bow woods include yew, ash, and hickory. That said, pretty much any hardwood, including maple and oak, will do the job. Softwoods like pine and cedar aren't good candidates.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Scrape off any bark on the stave with a knife or other sharp tool.\", \"描述\": \"A pocket knife or wood carving knife works well here, but pretty much any type of sharp blade will do. Use short, shallow strokes to scrape away the bark. Try not to remove the wood beneath the bark at this point, though.\\nIt’s not essential to remove the bark, but it makes it easier to get a better look at how the wood flexes and make adjustments as needed. It also improves the appearance of your DIY bow!\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Press the stave while it’s upright to find its natural curve.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the stave upright, with a loose grip on the top and the bottom set against your foot. Gently press outward against the center of the stave. The stave will rotate and its natural curve will point away from you.\\nThis maneuver identifies the inside and outside—also called the “belly” and “back”—of the bow. The “belly” will be closest to your body when you draw the bow.\\nYou may be making some cuts to the inside of the stave, but the outside must be left untouched. Any cuts made to the outside will severely affect the longevity and structural integrity of the bow.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Mark the handhold at the center of the stave.\", \"描述\": \"Find the middle of the stave, using a tape measure if available, or by making your best guess. Measure or estimate 3 in (7.6 cm) in both directions along the stave from the center point, and mark these with a permanent marker or a shallow notch with your knife.\\nThis center section is the handhold—the spot where you’ll hold the bow while drawing it. Like the outside of the stave, leave the handhold untouched to preserve the structural integrity of the bow.\"}, {\"编号\": 5, \"标题\": \"Bend the stave again and take a closer look at the curve.\", \"描述\": \"Hold the stave upright with your hand and against your foot once again. This time, though, apply a bit more pressure to flex the wood further—the center should push outward by at least 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm). Look closely at the curve of the stave and identify any spots where the wood isn’t flexing as easily.\"}, {\"编号\": 6, \"标题\": \"Shave wood from the inside of the bow to adjust the curve.\", \"描述\": \"Using the blade of your knife or other sharp tool, shave away a few layers of bark and wood from one of the spots where the wood isn’t flexing properly. By removing wood, you will increase the flexibility of the stiff areas. Keep shaving away wood and testing the flexibility of the bow until it bends in a uniform shape, both above and below the handhold.\\nCut wood only from the inside of the curve. Leave the outside of the bow untouched.\\nThe handhold and tips should remain relatively straight compared to the rest of the bow.\\nThe amount of carving required will vary greatly depending on how thick the stave is.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Stringing the Bow\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Cut notches on the inside and outside of each bow tip.\", \"描述\": \"These notches will hold the bow string in place. Make the notches on the outside curve no more than 0.25 in (0.64 cm) deep, and the notches on the inside no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deep.\\nCut the notches about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) in from the tips of the bow.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Tie your chosen bow string around the notches you cut.\", \"描述\": \"The bow string should be about 8 in (20 cm) shorter than the stave. Tie one end around the notches at the bottom of the stave, then tie a slipknot at the other end of the bow string. Flex the bow until you can get the slipknot over the notches at the top of the bow.\\nOnce in place, there should be a gap of about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) between the bow string and the handhold. Choose a different length of bow string if the gap is substantially smaller or larger than this.\\nPurchase a bow string, or use any string or cord material that is strong and durable, and that stretches only slightly under tension. Good options include nylon paracord, a long shoestring, or even twisted-together plant fibers if you really want to get back to nature!\\nDo not pull back on the string yet—the bow is not complete and could break.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Hang the bow horizontally so it’s positioned above you.\", \"描述\": \"Your aim is to rest the bow on the center handhold, above your head height but within your reach, with the string perpendicular to the ground. If you’re at home, you can, for instance, hang the handhold from a bicycle hook screwed into a roof rafter or ceiling joist. In the woods, find a sturdy, low-hanging tree limb that you can feed the bow over until it’s nearly against the trunk.\"}, {\"编号\": 4, \"标题\": \"Pull down on the bowstring and fine-tune the bend of the bow.\", \"描述\": \"Pull the string down about 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) and look at the curve of the bow. Visually identify spots that aren’t bending freely, release the string, and use your knife to shave away wood from the inside of the bow in these areas. Pull the string again and repeat the process until the bow curves evenly.\\nDon’t stop yet, though! Pull the string down 5–6 in (13–15 cm) and shave wood from the bow as needed. Repeat the process at 7–8 in (18–20 cm) and 9–10 in (23–25 cm) as well.\"}]}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Finishing Your Bow\", \"步骤\": [{\"编号\": 1, \"标题\": \"Apply a coat of a protective oil to keep the wood from drying out.\", \"描述\": \"Linseed oil and tung oil are good options here. Apply an even coat of your chosen oil with a natural bristle paint brush, then wipe away the excess with a rag. Allow the oil to dry for at least 4 hours, and possibly overnight.\\nThrow the oil-soaked rag in a bucket of water and leave it there while the bow dries. Then, hang the rag out to dry and throw it in the trash once it’s no longer damp. This eliminates the chance of the oil-soaked rag catching on fire.\\nApplying a protective oil is an optional step, but it will help your bow last longer and look better.\"}, {\"编号\": 2, \"标题\": \"Rub the dried finish with fine sandpaper, then apply more oil if desired.\", \"描述\": \"Once the coat of oil is completely dry, lightly rub the entire bow with fine-grit (360 or higher grit) sandpaper. If you want to apply a second coat of oil, wipe down the sanded bow with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat in the same manner as the first.\"}, {\"编号\": 3, \"标题\": \"Try out your new bow.\", \"描述\": \"At this point, the bow is ready to be used. Nock an arrow, get into firing position, draw the bowstring, zero in on your practice target, and let it fly!\\nIf you want to go completely DIY, try making your own arrows as well.\\nDo not test fire the bow without an arrow, as this can damage the bow and cause it to break.\\nMake safety your first priority when using your longbow. Never aim an arrow anywhere close to another person.\"}], \"注意事项\": [\"A longbow can be a deadly weapon. If you’re hunting, never point it at something you don’t intend to kill.\\n\"]}]}}", "问题明细": "", "扩展字段": "" }
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